my setup: Maxent MX 50X3, fed by:
- Accurian 6000 HDTV receiver via HDMI (optical audio to Technics)
- Elderly Mitsubishi VCR using composite video out (it doesnt even have S video or component video out). Using this for SDTV tuner
- Cox standard cable to VCR tuner

I'm using a very similar setup with Adelphia and a JVC VCR for tuner.

- Homemade VHF (dipole)/UHF(loop) HD receive antenna and impendance matching unit from junkbox parts, mounted on tripod in living room! Yeah...Im a hi-tech redneck! (medium gain antenna currently on order to put in attic or on roof)
I'd love to see a photo of your setup. How far are you from your broadcasting stations? Which antenna did you order?

My only complaint on the pix is that pixellation on motion scenes is quite noticeable. I dont know if the Panny unit would have been much better in this respect or not - but im satisfied with the Maxent as-is.
Not sure why you are experiencing this. Report back on this when you change out your antenna. It almost sounds like a feed problem with the incoming signal to the Accurian.

The sidebars on my set are gray.

That's weird....They're black on every set I've seen (3 so far) and heard about (dozens)....What firmware version do you have?

That's weird....They're black on every set I've seen (3 so far) and heard about (dozens)....What firmware version do you have?


Mine are black, but my SA8300HD will generate gray bars on a lot of the signals it throws into the Maxent.

Did anyone ever have a fix for the 'macroblocking' issue. I hadn't notcied it until recently and now that I do it bothers me. I'm running my SD via HDMI. Should I switch it to S-video?

Did anyone ever have a fix for the 'macroblocking' issue. I hadn't notcied it until recently and now that I do it bothers me. I'm running my SD via HDMI. Should I switch it to S-video?

Macroblocking isn't an issue, it's an artifact of the video compression. Like areas of video are encoded together with an algorithm to reduce the amount of data that needs to be transmitted, stored, etc. On a low resolution device, it is not noticeable, but on a high resolution device, the missing information is quite noticeable. Adjusting gamma correction can help blend the edges to make it considerably less noticeable. It, hopefully, will be fixed when better HD sources become available (MPEG-4, etc.). These sources will expect to be used with HD devices and, thus, the compression will retain more information.

In answer to your other question, most definitely switch to S-Video.

Here are pix of my setup and temporary hidef redneck antenna. Antenna is just an old UHF loop, a pair of rabbit ears, and a dual input 300 to 75 ohm matching unit leftover from the old days. All mounted on a board on a photo tripod.

(Forgive me if pix insertion doesnt work - 1st time tried on this board)

The sidebars on my TV are black.

I am 11 miles from the local Macon GA TV broadcast antenna farm. With the redneck antenna in living room, two stations are good full time and two have some dropout only on certian nights (weather?).

I ordered the V10 Medium gain antenna from antennas direct. I'll try to pull in DTV stations from Atlanta first (approx 90 miles) using roof mount. If that works, ill get another low gain unit for local Macon GA stations and sum them (assuming there are not two stations on same freq) rather than using a rotator. If it doesnt work, ill stick this antenna in the attic for local Macon GA stations only.

After reading the plasma break-in string, i noted factory setting on contrast is 80%. I adjusted all input settings to 50% on contrast. Yes it was quite dark on some scenes. I went back up to 65% for a DVD movie tonite (The Longest Yard) and that was good in a darkened room. Will go back to 50% for a couple of weeks.

I noticed first night with my Maxent MX-50X3 that if i put my hand on, or brushed it across the rear of the pedestal, large sections of squares (much larger than a pixel) would freeze (like im loosing signal). I assumed then it was a grounding or static issue. Tonite i noticed it will do it almost anywhere i touch the pedestal or lower part of the frame, or even move my hand within a couple of inches of the frame. And i noticed it distorts/freezes very large chunks of the pix if i touch it while sitting in a computer chair near the TV in my sock feet. There is a plastic office mat under the chair and my sock feet.

This only occurs using the HDMI input from the Accurian HDTV receiver. I switched to video from the VCR tuner and no effect.

From these "experiments", I assume this problem is caused by static electricity interference running along the plastic frame & pedestal. But is it interfering with the HDMI signal itself, or propagaing into the HDTV receiver (over the HDMI cable) and interfering at the front end or intermediate internal signals. What do you technophiles think. I havent resarched the signal modulation and levels on HDMI so dont know its suceptibility to noise/static electricity.

Could this also be due to the cheap RS closout HDMI cable i bought? Are some of these cheap HDMI cables unshielded?

Do i need to ground the TV chassis? (it has a ground lug on the power plug and my house wiring has grounds back to the breaker panel). There is no place i have seen to tie a ground bus (maybe a wall mounting lug?

I'd try a different HDMI cable first

Macroblocking isn't an issue, it's an artifact of the video compression. Like areas of video are encoded together with an algorithm to reduce the amount of data that needs to be transmitted, stored, etc. On a low resolution device, it is not noticeable, but on a high resolution device, the missing information is quite noticeable. Adjusting gamma correction can help blend the edges to make it considerably less noticeable. It, hopefully, will be fixed when better HD sources become available (MPEG-4, etc.). These sources will expect to be used with HD devices and, thus, the compression will retain more information.

In answer to your other question, most definitely switch to S-Video.

Thanks. My main concern is that it is strictly a source issue and not a TV defect.

Thanks. My main concern is that it is strictly a source issue and not a TV defect.
The macroblocking effect is the reason I am using 480p over component to watch current MPEG-2 DVDs. The lower resolution helps to attenuate the effect. When Oppo adds gamma adjustment capability to their upscaling DVD player, I will probably go that route.

MPEG-4 standard DVDs should produce an incredible picture with minimal macroblocking.

I might have come across the reason why we're not seeing this unit in stores (and some places showing "deleted" or people being told the unit is discontinued.) From the Costco 42" MX-42X3 thread over there, posted by TenMidgets today:

"They do not expect to get any back in stock as the model has been discontinued due to a Panasonic panel shortage (they cannot keep up with demand on their own sets). But the MX3 is available to purchase online thru Costco. If you don't want to pay shipping, you either have to get lucky and find one in a Costco wharehouse or buy an XM11 instead."

Perhaps the MX-50X3 being sold at Best Buy is having the same glass supply issues?

As of last Saturday, Colorado BB had 50 units at their warehouse in Denver, yet, these units have not been distributed to their stores. You can will call them, or have them delivered to stores for pickup.

Hope this helps.

I have finally gotten a rs232 connection, and have adjusted my tv and it makes a HUGE difference in picture quality! But I noticed last night that the setting reset to original values when the tv is turned off, would someone please check their set and see if this is happening to everyone. Or am I just "STUPID" and need to save the setting somehow? Good thing I didn't go through the trouble of calibrating it yet!

Thanks to everyone who helped me get this up and running, I only need a little more help and then I will leave everyone alone.

I have finally gotten a rs232 connection, and have adjusted my tv and it makes a HUGE difference in picture quality! But I noticed last night that the setting reset to original values when the tv is turned off, would someone please check their set and see if this is happening to everyone. Or am I just "STUPID" and need to save the setting somehow? Good thing I didn't go through the trouble of calibrating it yet!

Thanks to everyone who helped me get this up and running, I only need a little more help and then I will leave everyone alone.



What did you make your adjustments to?

Will you please list your settings in complete form--meaning from menu and from rs232?

I have finally gotten a rs232 connection, and have adjusted my tv and it makes a HUGE difference in picture quality! But I noticed last night that the setting reset to original values when the tv is turned off, would someone please check their set and see if this is happening to everyone. Or am I just "STUPID" and need to save the setting somehow? Good thing I didn't go through the trouble of calibrating it yet!

Thanks to everyone who helped me get this up and running, I only need a little more help and then I will leave everyone alone.

Did you do the SAV (save) command?

What did you make your adjustments to?

Will you please list your settings in complete form--meaning from menu and from rs232?


I have not calibrated the unit using DVE yet so here are the original setting, based on my "eyes" and suggestions from the group.

Contrast=60
Brightness=60
Color=30
Tint=0
Sharpness=1
Color Temp= cool

Original settings

R-gain=283
G-gain=328
B-gain=295
R-bias=415
G-bias=374
B-bias=415

Just for comfort I adjust the G-gain down to 299.

Like I said before "I have not Calibrated using DVE yet" so take these for what their worth.


Did you do the SAV (save) command?


No I didn't. Do I just type "SAV" or do I type "SAV:SAV"

No I didn't. Do I just type "SAV" or do I type "SAV:SAV"

I think it is SAV:000, but it's in the manual...check to make sure. Also, I don't know if this will save them or not, as there is no information for that command, but logically it seems it would. There's also a Recall command RCL. Don't know if that recalls factory defaults or your saved parameters or what.

Robert

I think it is SAV:000, but it's in the manual...check to make sure. Also, I don't know if this will save them or not, as there is no information for that command, but logically it seems it would. There's also a Recall command RCL. Don't know if that recalls factory defaults or your saved parameters or what.

Robert


Your right its SAV:000.

If anyone has NOT pulled the trigger on this, it's on sale at Best Buy today and tomorrow, AND there's another 10% off coupon, so it's just like it was priced at the first week of November! :D

I am so glad I stumbled across this model, considering what I was about to spend on a microdisplay. Factor in a couple of bulb replacements and the plasma is actually the better buy. I'll be pulling the trigger as soon as my rewards zone account is activated.

There doesn't seem to be a b&m in the entire state that has this unit in stock, but with free delivery who cares? The monster would have never fit in my car anyway. Website shows that delivery in my area is available with about a week delay. Monday the 26th is going to be a good day.

I am so glad I stumbled across this model, considering what I was about to spend on a microdisplay. Factor in a couple of bulb replacements and the plasma is actually the better buy. I'll be pulling the trigger as soon as my rewards zone account is activated.

There doesn't seem to be a b&m in the entire state that has this unit in stock, but with free delivery who cares? The monster would have never fit in my car anyway. Website shows that delivery in my area is available with about a week delay. Monday the 26th is going to be a good day.


You might be able to get it delivered sooner.

None of the B&M stores in my area (or state) apparently had any in stock, and when I tried ordering online it said the first delivery date was more than a week away.

However, I went to a B&M store, they matched the free delivery and were able to deliver the next business day!


Mine is still sitting in the box as I contemplate what to do with my 1-year old Sony 42" LCD RPTV...

A question for those with one already-- how is the glare on the Maxent in real-life situations? I have a large sliding patio door opposite where the Maxent will go (and where my Sony is now)... the anti-glare coating on the Sony works pretty well at reducing the glare when the room gets bright (which isn't too often as the sliding glass door faces due north).

Essentially, am I going to have to keep my blinds closed at all hours of the day to watch TV?

I'm about to go to BB and pick up one of these bad boys.

Do you guys think I should get the 4-year warranty plan from BB? Or just go with manufacturer warranty? $300 is $300 more than I want to give those guys. Sure thers is some peace of mind, but what can I say, I 'm cheap that way. :D

EDIT: Well pulled the trigger and delivery date of December 23. No BB service plan, couldnt force myself to do it. :o

If anyone has NOT pulled the trigger on this, it's on sale at Best Buy today and tomorrow, AND there's another 10% off coupon, so it's just like it was priced at the first week of November! :D

Unfortunately the coupon is in-store only and limited to in-stock items. Good luck finding a store that has this unit in stock.

Unfortunately the coupon is in-store only and limited to in-stock items. Good luck finding a store that has this unit in stock.

The item is considered "in-stock" if the item is available at the warehouse/distribution center, even if it's not physically at the store.

If the item were out-of-stock... you wouldn't even have to worry about whether the coupon works as you wouldn't even be able to buy the Maxent in the first place...

I have had the TV for about a month. For the past few days i having problems with signals send through the Component input. The picture is missing a primary color. ie the picture looks pinkish/red (in the case of cable tuner, 8300HD) or greenish (signal from DVD player S77). The problem is with both component inputs on the plasma.

However signals sent through the HDMI input, the color appears normal. The color also appears normal for 480i signal from S77 send via component input.

I have used multiple cables, so i am sure it not a problem with the cable.

Any ideas?. Does this sound like a hardware issue or am i missing something simple? is there anything like resetting the plasma?

Thanks

py

Have you messed around with the RGB Bias and Gain settings through the serial port? That would certainly cause the behavior you are seeing. If you haven't you might want to connect up and check the values to see where they are at compared to what others have posted.

Also, does the red move with the 8300 if you move it from input 1 to input 2? Does the green move from 2 to 1 with the DVD player? If the red and green stay put no matter the source, I'd definitely say it's the RGB settings. If the problem moves with the source, then I dunno.

A question for those with one already-- how is the glare on the Maxent in real-life situations? I have a large sliding patio door opposite where the Maxent will go (and where my Sony is now)... the anti-glare coating on the Sony works pretty well at reducing the glare when the room gets bright (which isn't too often as the sliding glass door faces due north).


I have mine mounted on the wall of a 2 story great room with a wall of windows (windows are tinted slightly with aftermarket tint).
The windows are on the south side so we get a lot of sun during the day.

It looks great in the daytime until the sun shines directly on the screen.
When the sun hits it directly it does wash the color out but it's 100X better then my old rear projection tv. I'm still trying to find good solution for remote control blinds :rolleyes:

During evening viewing I can notice the reflection of a light from another room, but only when I try and look for a glare.

I have no complaints on mine so far ;)

Good luck,
Token

I was wondering if anyone knows what scaler is in the Maxent 50x3?

I am also interested to know the personal openions of owners of this TV. How do you think the scaler performs on 480i, 480P, and 1080i? (comparison to other HDTV's)

The store feed is at 720p right? (Best Buy)

I was wondering if anyone knows what scaler is in the Maxent 50x3?

I am also interested to know the personal openions of owners of this TV. How do you think the scaler performs on 480i, 480P, and 1080i? (comparison to other HDTV's)

The store feed is at 720p right? (Best Buy)

My store was 1080i

Have you messed around with the RGB Bias and Gain settings through the serial port? That would certainly cause the behavior you are seeing. If you haven't you might want to connect up and check the values to see where they are at compared to what others have posted.

Also, does the red move with the 8300 if you move it from input 1 to input 2? Does the green move from 2 to 1 with the DVD player? If the red and green stay put no matter the source, I'd definitely say it's the RGB settings. If the problem moves with the source, then I dunno.


I have not messed with the bias/gain settings. The red/green stays with source.

I have had the TV for about a month. For the past few days i having problems with signals send through the Component input. The picture is missing a primary color. ie the picture looks pinkish/red (in the case of cable tuner, 8300HD) or greenish (signal from DVD player S77). The problem is with both component inputs on the plasma.

However signals sent through the HDMI input, the color appears normal. The color also appears normal for 480i signal from S77 send via component input.

I have used multiple cables, so i am sure it not a problem with the cable.

Any ideas?. Does this sound like a hardware issue or am i missing something simple? is there anything like resetting the plasma?

Thanks

py

Push all three RBG cables in firmly on BOTH ends.

Went to Costco to compare the 42" version of this tonight since BB doesn't have the 50" on display. I watched it for about 15 minutes or so, while they were running a feed with some trailers (Aeon Flux among others) and some skiing show.

Was really impressed with how this looked, even compared to the nearby Vizio. Of course, I am a newbie at looking at these things. I think I'm going to take the plunge tomorrow on it, to take advantage of the sale and coupon.

However, the wife is being slightly less supportive than she was a few days ago though....she's "happy" with our 27" CRT from 1997. Yeah, that's right, you're jealous.

Go for it. Trust me, the more I read these forums the more I believe nearly everyone jumps on the latest bandwagon bus being new products or great deals. Very little is expressed from anyone with authority or qualifications (including myself). Is this a bad thing, maybe sometimes? In this case, you save some money and get a hell of a plasma that will rival anything even way higher priced. Can't go wrong IMHO as it will be nearly impossible to notice any differences once its home (imagined or not).

Okay I think I am going to pull the trigger on this bad boy soon. I've read through the enitre thread, and am deciding what I need. This is my first Plasma/HD TV so I have tons of questions. I am upgrading from a Sony 36 inch WEGA.

First connections. I have 5.1 speakers, but no receiver yet so I want to get a good quality receiver to pair with the Maxent. Any suggestions? Secondly, I have Directv. I know that I am going to have to get an antenna for local HD, because Directv doesn't offer it. Also, I am going to need a a new DVD player. Based on this thread, many of the upconversion DVD players cause macroblocking, so should I just go with a progressive scan DVD player? If so, any recommendations?

So recap. I need an antenna, a receiver and a DVD player.

What should I use to hook all this up and how? Should everything be routed through the receiver or not? This is where I get really unsure. Lemme see if this is close to being correct:

D* HD DVR to TV---HDMI
D* HD DVR to TV---S Video (for SD television per the thread)
DVD to Receiver---component
Antenna to TV---Coax???

Is that correct or should I be routing more stuff through the receiver. Also, what about the audio cables. What do I need and where do they go? (TV or receiver?). Also, if I get an XBOX 360 in the future, do I have room to hook it up?

This thread has been so helpful, and I cant wait to get this set and and try it out.

Okay I think I am going to pull the trigger on this bad boy soon. I've read through the enitre thread, and am deciding what I need. This is my first Plasma/HD TV so I have tons of questions. I am upgrading from a Sony 36 inch WEGA.Pull the trigger TODAY! It's the last day of the sale (again) and the 10% coupon also applies. PM me for details!

edit: I decided to keep the Maxent instead of trying to compare the Vizio from Costco. Sure, the Vizio has the Faroudja chip and two HDMI, but I already have the Maxent, and it's just not worth the trouble to me. :-\

Pull the trigger TODAY! It's the last day of the sale (again) and the 10% coupon also applies. PM me for details!

edit: I decided to keep the Maxent instead of trying to compare the Vizio from Costco. Sure, the Vizio has the Faroudja chip and two HDMI, but I already have the Maxent, and it's just not worth the trouble to me. :-\

Are you sure you don't want to get the Vizio and do a side-by-side comparison for the rest of us? :p

The added side benefit is that you then can keep the one you really, really like...

Are you sure you don't want to get the Vizio and do a side-by-side comparison for the rest of us? :p

The added side benefit is that you then can keep the one you really, really like...Actually, truth be told, I really want to. Problem is, I have to jump thru hoops to arrange transportation for the Vizio from Costco to my place, and back to whichever store I return to.

If *anyone* in the Tampa/St. Pete area wants to volunteer their truck/van/etc. to help me do this, I will. Seriously! PM or email me.

Bought it today. The "great" folks at BB of course tried to screw me out using the coupon in conjunction with the sale price, but I talked them into it....mostly by crying and stomping my feet.

I will be picking it up on 12/23.

I also have some questions about hooking it up. I need to buy a new receiver since the video-out broke on my current one, and I'll be picking up the Comcast DVR/box for HD programming. After reading through the thread, I'm not sure what to do to hook everything up. I would appreciate some advice from the "experts" around here.

I have the following components:
1) Progressive Scan DVD player with component out. Should I upgrade to one that does upconversion and HDMI out or will the macroblocking make it worthless?
2) Stand-alone Tivo Series 2.
3) Comcast HD DVR.

My guess is I should run both the DVD player and Tivo through the receiver (with component out from the receiver going to the TV), and then the HDMI from the Comcast box going straight to the TV. That way I will only be using two different inputs on the TV (one for the receiver, and one for the Comcast box).

Is that the best way? Will SD from the Tivo look like crap, and I should run S-Video from it directly to the TV instead? Should I get a DVD player with HDMI output (and possible upconversion) and then get an HDMI switch for the DVD Player/Comcast box? Or should I just play around once I get my TV and see what looks best? Is this even the right forum for these questions, or is it off-topic?

I think I would wait for Blu-Ray (HD-DVD) to upgrade my dvd player. Especially since Blu-Ray will be backward compatable with normal DVD's. But you will have to wait 6mo-1yr for that.

Mine are black, but my SA8300HD will generate gray bars on a lot of the signals it throws into the Maxent.


i have an SA 8300HD, so maybe that's why they're gray

man, No best buy in a 200 mile radius of Chicago has this TV in stock. I want to be able to use the 10% coupon because the online sale price isnt that good. Can you buy the TV even if they dont have one? A few Best Buy stores have one on display...

Thanks!!!

man, No best buy in a 200 mile radius of Chicago has this TV in stock. I want to be able to use the 10% coupon because the online sale price isnt that good. Can you buy the TV even if they dont have one? A few Best Buy stores have one on display...

Thanks!!!


Yes you can buy it even though its not in store. The item is in stock in the warehouses so it will ship to you or for in store pickup in about 3 business days. This has been the mode of delivery for quite some time now. I don't understand why very few stores stock the item but that is the way they want to work it so.....

This is correct, I just returned from BB after pulling the trigger myself. Got the 10% off along with 0% for 18 months. There were none in the store but a hundred or so at the warehouse. Mine will be delivered Tuesday.

dest,
how did you get them to give you sale price plus coupon? I'm thinking about heading over myself but not sure I want the hassle?
-m

Well there isnt a sale anymore as of sunday. Its regular price and today is the last day for the 10% off too.

I am sooooo on the edge. I want to just get up and buy this thing. I havent pulled the trigger and i wonder if they will have any after xmas discounts that will beat 10%...

any thoughts??

Well there isnt a sale anymore as of sunday. Its regular price and today is the last day for the 10% off too.

I am sooooo on the edge. I want to just get up and buy this thing. I havent pulled the trigger and i wonder if they will have any after xmas discounts that will beat 10%...

any thoughts??


Buy it while the 10% is off. I bought mine at one price and then took my reciept back in when it went on sale. For the 30 day period after you buy it you can take advantage of any sale price.

Where might one get the 10% c**pon?

check your pm's.

I live in Mass. There are ZERO available in Mass and in the north east. I chaecked online at BB's site. The rep sain they also have ZERO for the entire country available. They checked all the store and online inventory. So if anyone knows whre there are any in stock, let us know. BTW the online agent was about to take my order and said "Sure we have them in stock", until I pressed him to do a hard inventory search where he apologized and stated he was wrong....

I live in Mass. There are ZERO available in Mass and in the north east. I chaecked online at BB's site. The rep sain they also have ZERO for the entire country available. They checked all the store and online inventory. So if anyone knows whre there are any in stock, let us know. BTW the online agent was about to take my order and said "Sure we have them in stock", until I pressed him to do a hard inventory search where he apologized and stated he was wrong....
Go to your local BB store and place an order. You'll get it in about 3 to 5 days.

Please stop the coupon talk, etc. I'm about to have to go back and start deleting.

Thanks

I went today to a BB here in Boston. They have NONE, The warehouses in the US have NONE, all the other BB's in the US have NONE. Only a few display models remain. None on backorder from Maxent either This is from th General Manager...... If anyone can get actual prrof of an AVAILABLE unit, please let me know where? Thanks.

I just ordered one yesterday from the BB in Harrisburg, PA and it should be here on Friday. At least that's what I was told. Not sure where it is actually coming from though. Maybe they lied. Or maybe I got the last one. Sucker ;)

I hope you get yours.... I bought mine last week. It was supposed to be delivered Today! I got a call from the delivery warehouse yesterday saying that they actually do NOT have the TV to deliver to me that I had purchased. They also said that they could not find this tv anywhere and they would have to cancel my order! BUT it wasnt an order, I actually paid in Full and never was told when I bought it that they were out of stock everywhere. This is when I called BB to get the info....

Buy it while the 10% is off. I bought mine at one price and then took my reciept back in when it went on sale. For the 30 day period after you buy it you can take advantage of any sale price.That's not completely correct. I bought it using the combo of sale price/cpn and when it dropped lower than the "starting price" I paid, they wouldn't match that, saying the price I paid was already lower since I had used the cpn.

No more coupon talk - it's dead and the mods asked nicely!

I hope you get yours.... I bought mine last week. It was supposed to be delivered Today! I got a call from the delivery warehouse yesterday saying that they actually do NOT have the TV to deliver to me that I had purchased. They also said that they could not find this tv anywhere and they would have to cancel my order! BUT it wasnt an order, I actually paid in Full and never was told when I bought it that they were out of stock everywhere. This is when I called BB to get the info....

Well, that worries me. I'll call BB later today and check on the status and have them make sure the warehouse actually has one in stock. Will post back after I talk to them.

Considering I've already ordered the entertainment center, cables, mount, new receiver and was buying new speakers today in anticipation of Friday, I'll be upset if I don't get the TV.

Did BB offer any kindof deal to you for screwing up the order?

Well, i called back the store I bought the tv from. I talked to the General manager. He confirmed that NO stores had this TV remaining and they should not have sold this TV to me. The stores that still show they HAVE lets say 1 tv left, are showing that they display models left, but nothing in stock. After calling BB online, to see if I could purchase this tv through them (they also said they have Zero supply) and calling BB corporate in MIN, the Manager offered me the floor model for an dditional 300$ off. The tv was there for about a month 30 days x 12hr/day = 360 hours of life used which is not alot. They appologized but there was nothing else this store could do. So at this point get your hands on a floor model if you can. THey did tell me that they ordered More of the 50x3 tv, but ive read on other sites that the 50x3 model is done for since they are out of Panny glass and will be using other manufacturer parts, so who knows? Even then they had no idea of when they were going to get the new supply, they said it could be a couple months!?
Hope this helps you and I hope you get your tv, please let me know. Thanks.

Hello, I just got my Maxent 50X3 last week, everything is great so far except for one thing.( I probably wouldn't have noticed it if I hadn't read this forum ) When there are scenes where there is a fog or smoke in the background the fog or smoke has a slight greenish tint. It's as if the green level is just a tad too high. I've tried adjusting the tint and can't resolve this. When I turn the color all the way down, the blacks are fine, the light colored grays have this slight green tint. I set it up using the THX Optimizer and none of this shows up during the setup process. Other than that, this thing is great. I've read on here that the RGB levels can be adjusted by use of a computer. Can someone tell me how to do this and where I might start making adjustments to bring the green level down?

Well, I just got off the phone with the lady at BB (this is the one in Harrisburg PA). She looked it up and said the warehouse had 80 of them in stock. I asked her which warehouse, and she said it was located in Washington DC. She has no idea why you wouldn't be able to get one of those.

Maybe they're just too lazy to look up another warehouse outside of the Boston area.

Also, in HUGE news, she also said my TV (which wasn't supposed to be there until Friday) is sitting there now....she was looking right at the box.

Guess who has two thumbs and is leaving work early. G'head....guess. Yeah, that would be me.

Hello, I just got my Maxent 50X3 last week, everything is great so far except for one thing.( I probably wouldn't have noticed it if I hadn't read this forum ) When there are scenes where there is a fog or smoke in the background the fog or smoke has a slight greenish tint. It's as if the green level is just a tad too high. I've tried adjusting the tint and can't resolve this. When I turn the color all the way down, the blacks are fine, the light colored grays have this slight green tint. I set it up using the THX Optimizer and none of this shows up during the setup process. Other than that, this thing is great. I've read on here that the RGB levels can be adjusted by use of a computer. Can someone tell me how to do this and where I might start making adjustments to bring the green level down?

Follow the manual, but in short, you'll need a laptop or PC running a communication software program like hyperterminal (the default windows one) and a null modem RS232 cable (very important...A straight through cable won't work)

Open up a hyperterminal session and set the comm port for 9600, 8, N, 1. Go into Ascii Setup and turn on Local Echo. Connect to the TV and try a couple of the read commands (REA:PWR) to see if the TV responds. To adjust the green, you'll probably have to turn down the green gain. I would record the default values first in case you need to go back.

Once you are done, you use the Save SAV command to store your values.

Good Luck

Robert

Hmmmm, I just called a store in Virginia and got the warehouse #. They do say they have 81 in stock at the warehouse........ WTF! Why couldn't the Boston warehouse call the DC one or the BB store call them. Lat me know when your tv is delivered so I can call our BB and re-order the NEW tv...

Hmmmm, I just called a store in Virginia and got the warehouse #. They do say they have 81 in stock at the warehouse........ WTF! Why couldn't the Boston warehouse call the DC one or the BB store call them. Lat me know when your tv is delivered so I can call our BB and re-order the NEW tv...

Like I said, it's at the store now, and I'm picking it up in around 4ish today. I would call your BB now and tell them to cut the <insert your favorite expletive here> and order you the TV from the Washington warehouse.

I have no idea why your BB would rather not sell a TV than call another warehouse. That's kindof a bizarre business model....

I have no idea why your BB would rather not sell a TV than call another warehouse. That's kindof a bizarre business model....

To Kozz:

You really do have to go to BB and place the order. I know my previous post might have sounded a bit trivial, but my point was that despite all that you're being told at BB, ignore it and place the order. Ignore excuses, out of stock, etc. and tell them to place the order. Your store is just taking it a step further and canceling your order, so you'll have to order again. They absolutely, positively would rather you bought something else.

When I purchased mine, there were "better" units and this model had dozens of returns over the last month (despite the fact that I purchased it the first week Best Buy started carrying the unit).

However, it's worth the persistence.

Are you sure you don't want to get the Vizio and do a side-by-side comparison for the rest of us? :p

The added side benefit is that you then can keep the one you really, really like...

Actually, truth be told, I really want to...


Please, I'm trying to decide between the two of these and my local BB doesn't have one to look at.

-JayMan

Ok, I have mine here and sortof hooked up. Like I said earlier, it wasn't supposed to be here until Friday, so I don't have my cables or new receiver yet, so I have the Tivo and DVD player hooked up with S-Video (groan), which means no progressive scan until I get the cables.

I put in Final Fantasy: The Spirits within and was immediately disappointed. Finally realized my DVD player was still set to output to a 4:3 TV (d'oh!). Fixed that and it was quite a bit better, but still grainy. Switched to Finding Nemo and was completely impressed with how it looked...perhaps FF isn't the best disc to look at it, or perhaps it's the non-progressive S-Video hookup....or maybe a combination, but Finding Nemo looked 100 times better. Can't wait to get my cables and hook it properly.

SD from my Tivo recordings doesn't look that great but that could be the compression. It's watchable though, and not much worse than I've seen on other HD sets.

Anyways, the wife is watching her soaps now (groan again), and then I'm going to watch The Island and see how it looks.

Not the most comprehensive review I know, since I don't have the proper cables yet and I haven't even messed around with settings, but figured I'd throw my first impressions out there.

Hmmmm, I just called a store in Virginia and got the warehouse #. They do say they have 81 in stock at the warehouse........ WTF! Why couldn't the Boston warehouse call the DC one or the BB store call them. Lat me know when your tv is delivered so I can call our BB and re-order the NEW tv...
Their #'s appear to be way off the BB website on Satuday said I could pick up the 50" at the store in Manassas, Va. When I went there to get it none were there. Their inventory said there was 1 in fair lakes (about 15 miles away) so I drove there to pick it up to find out it was not there either. The inventory showed 2 in springfield,va. About another 20 miles away. Nope not there either. So now I am waiting for it to be delivered to the manassas store on Wed. after making a 45 mile loop around Northern Va. And putting up not only with the holiday shopping mess, but the fuickng dweebs waiting outside all night for an x-box 360. They actually had to call the Prince william county police out on Sunday morning cause these felchers were fighting each other over a piece of sh1t that just locks up.

Please, I'm trying to decide between the two of these and my local BB doesn't have one to look at.

-JayManAs I said, unless someone in the Tampa Bay, FL, area wants to volunteer their time - and more importantly, their transportation - to help me pick it up form Costco and take one or the other back to the respective store, there's nothing else I can do. :(

I wanted to post this up, in case anyone else either A.) has tried this already and has comments (or solutions!), and/or B.) is looking for a solution such as I am. (Funny, there's a monoprice.com ad on the top of the page LOL As they're advertising here, I think it should be OK to post the prices of the solutions.)

Problem: the Maxent only has one HDMI input. Two devices (digital STB and Oppo DVD player) use DVI outputs.

Solutions:

Swap cable (DVI to HDMI) manually, from the back of the STB to the back of the Oppo DVD player
Pro: cheap
Con: PITA to do everytime you want to switch from one to the other.

HDMI switch box (2-Port HDMI Switch w/Remote Controller (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10106&cs_id=1010602&p_id=2524&seq=1&format=2&style=))
Pro: Easy to switch between the two, especially with remote
Pro: There is also a 4-port version (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10106&cs_id=1010602&p_id=2721&seq=1&format=2&style=) that monoprice says they are taking pre-orders for (but was suppsoed to arrive two days ago, on 12/18) - so if you have 3 or 4 DVI or HDMI sources, that would work, though it would cost you $148.67 + shipping.
Con: Cost ($99.37 + shipping), while less expensive than other HDMI switchers, is still pretty steep.
Con: yet *another* remote control to deal with (does my Logitech Harmony 880 work with it? Good question.)

HDMI splitter (Video/Audio Splitter - HDMI M to HDMI F X 2 (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10422&cs_id=1042203&p_id=2522&style=&seq=1&format=1))
Pro: fairly cheap! ($14.66 + shipping)
Con: Possible issue if both devices are left on.
Con: (Possible) User on another board sent this to me: "There was a thread on AVS forums where it [the HDMI splitter linked above] did not work correctly for someone who had purchased the splitter. Some problems with syncing with the HDMI input and that it worked only occassionally."
Con: This solution assumes you only have two DVI or HDMI sources. More than that, and this solution is not sufficient.

So, that about covers it. The single HDMI input on the Maxent has been a source of contention for me (especially since I have two DVI sources, both using DVI to HDMI cables), and swapping the cables betwen the two is a PITA. I have the #3 solution on order now (the splitter has alread shipped to me), so I'll post back how it works with the digital STB from BHN and the Oppo DVD player. I don't think the issue of both devices being on will be a problem; the Logitech Harmony 880 remote I use (which freakin' rocks!) turns off the devices not in use, and turns on the ones I am using. Hopefully solution #3 - the el cheapo one that doesn't involve swapping cables - is the one that works best for me. I'd hate to have to go to #2 and spend $100 to $200 more. :( The Vizio (with dual HDMI input, plus the Faroudja scaler) really begins to look like a better alternative, as it's only $50 or so more than the cost of the Maxent from BB w/ the 4-year warranty.

Yes, please keep us posted on this. I only have one HDMI source right now, but am thinking of upgrading the DVD player to an upconverting one with HDMI and was wondering how I would handle it.

I am thinking the splitter won't work for me since my two HDMI sources would then be a DVD player and a HD-DVR (that would be on all the time).

Also would love to know if the Harmony 676/680 (ordering one once I decide which button layout I like better) works with the HDMI switch. Anyone out there have a similar setup?

by the time you consider a switchbox, maybe it's time to consider upgrading the receiver :)

by the time you consider a switchbox, maybe it's time to consider upgrading the receiver :)

That luxury is for people with more money than me :(

Maybe I'll just stick to component for one of them....that'll save me some money.

HDMI Reciever will work. I have a receiver from BB (about 1000$) that has HDMI in and HDMI out in addition to all the usual inputs. Works great. got the DVD and Cable goig through it for my LCD tv. Other options is to try the HDMI swith from BB, it may work (Im not sure if ths is the one already refered to?) or just to connect the DVD by component.

ALSO, if you connect your TV by HDMI from your cable box- all your sound is going into the TV and its speakers. To get your sound to a surround sound system, it would be advisable to get a receiver with HDMI in....

Or run component and optical audio. You'll be able to adjust your aspect ration and HDMI right now is sketchy and expensive. Take it from someone who bought a new receiver w/HDMI in/out and now wishes he had bought a receiver with additional component inputs instead of the HDMI inputs.

...ALSO, if you connect your TV by HDMI from your cable box- all your sound is going into the TV and its speakers. To get your sound to a surround sound system, it would be advisable to get a receiver with HDMI in....My STB is DVI. I use digital coax for the surround sound. My Xbox is currently using TOSlink, and my speakers (Logitech Z-680) have only one input for it. Monoprice sells a TOSlink splitter, which I also ordered (something like ~$8), and I'll be using that as well, since the Oppo DVD player does TOSlink for digital audio. With the HDMI splitter, TOSlink splitter, and 6' TOSlink cable, it came to just over $23 shipped.

It's a good day to be home with the flu bug. The tv was delivered this morning and the cable guy showed up a couple hours later with the hd/dvr combo. Coming from a run-of-the-mill 27" CRT I'll echo what everyone else is saying. SD is all over the map, but HD is just mesmerizing. DVD over component is "merely" good after watching a documentary on the Amazon on hdnet.

I am very happy with this purchase. Avia is on the way so I should be even happier in a few days' time.

I was having issues with my cable box and using HDMI, so I switched it back to component. I couldn't tell any difference between the two, so I'm pretty satisfied with only one HDMI input, I'll stay away from it as long as I can.

Follow the manual, but in short, you'll need a laptop or PC running a communication software program like hyperterminal (the default windows one) and a null modem RS232 cable (very important...A straight through cable won't work)

Open up a hyperterminal session and set the comm port for 9600, 8, N, 1. Go into Ascii Setup and turn on Local Echo. Connect to the TV and try a couple of the read commands (REA:PWR) to see if the TV responds. To adjust the green, you'll probably have to turn down the green gain. I would record the default values first in case you need to go back.

Once you are done, you use the Save SAV command to store your values.

Good Luck

Robert

I hate to be a PITA,But I can't get this to work. I am using a null adapter with a straight cable (pinout should be the same as a null cable?) and using the 9 pin port on my p.c. I entered all the information 9600,8,n,1 set the echo to on, and entered the commands (each in new sessions) as follows REA:PWR (hit the enter key), nothing, rea:pwr (hit enter key), nothing >rea:pwr (hit enter key),nothing >REA:PWR (hit enter key) nothing. It seems as if there is no information being sent from my p.c. to the display, is there some way that I'm supposed to configure the 9 pin port to send this info or does the computer do it automatically? I'm not very good with computers so please give step by step instructions on how to correct anything I'm doing wrong.

...I'm not very good with computers so please give step by step instructions on how to correct anything I'm doing wrong.That statement alone says it all. Do not attempt to do this. Pay a technician to calibrate this for you. http://www.howardforums.com/images/smilies/awcrap.gif

I hate to be a PITA,But I can't get this to work. I am using a null adapter with a straight cable (pinout should be the same as a null cable?) and using the 9 pin port on my p.c. I entered all the information 9600,8,n,1 set the echo to on, and entered the commands (each in new sessions) as follows REA:PWR (hit the enter key), nothing, rea:pwr (hit enter key), nothing >rea:pwr (hit enter key),nothing >REA:PWR (hit enter key) nothing. It seems as if there is no information being sent from my p.c. to the display, is there some way that I'm supposed to configure the 9 pin port to send this info or does the computer do it automatically? I'm not very good with computers so please give step by step instructions on how to correct anything I'm doing wrong.

Are you sure you are selecting the right COM port in your setup...Usually COM1, but may be COM2 if you have an internal modem. Also, make sure no other programs are running in the background that might have control of the COM port. Lastly, check your cable....Pull the end from the TV and take some aligator clips and tie pins 2 and 3 together. Then whatever you type on the PC should be returned back (if you have echo on, you should see everything twice). Try taking the null adapter off also...You might have a null cable and not know it.

Robert

Is there a way to adjust overscan on this unit? I tried using the H,V-size and position but it really didn't do anything.

Thanks

Thinking of pulling the trigger on this set the next time it's onsale @ BB. It's between this and the Hitachi 55", but having a hard time justifying $1500 extra for 5" more?
Any thoughts? Is the difference in 5" that noticeable once it's home in your living room? And if I can get the sale price and some type of BB rewards discount, the diff will be almost $2k for 5" extra?
help me decide!

Thinking of pulling the trigger on this set the next time it's onsale @ BB. It's between this and the Hitachi 55", but having a hard time justifying $1500 extra for 5" more?
Any thoughts? Is the difference in 5" that noticeable once it's home in your living room? And if I can get the sale price and some type of BB rewards discount, the diff will be almost $2k for 5" extra?
help me decide!

I don't know about 5", but I can tell you 8" makes a difference....Even in TVs ;)

Seriously, though, both my neighbors have 42" (Plasma and LCD), and their 42" look anemic after watching a 50"

Robert

that's what I'm wondering, will I regret not getting the 55 if I go with the 50" max?

that's what I'm wondering, will I regret not getting the 55 if I go with the 50" max?

For between $1500 and $2000 difference, I certainly wouldn't.

Think of it this way: a 50" plasma has 40% more screen space than a 42" screen, yet only costs an extra $500 or so.

A 55" plasma has just 20% more screen space than a 50" plasma, but costs an extra $1500 to $2000.

SOHR - thanks for reinforcing what I was already thinking. I just can't bring myself to make the jump for an extra 5" for the price, especially when the 55" I am considering is nothing special itself. I mean, it has good reviews, but it's got it's own problems, and I'd be more worried about that set than the Maxent as most of the opinions on this thread give it 2 thumbs up(I think).
Now if I can only find it onsale @ BB again like last week, and that coupon, boy that would be great too!

I've been following the Costco Vizio thread as well, but I think that set has too many issues for me, the #1 being the fan noise issue. I am fine with only 1 HDMI input, and as far as the contrast ratio, it's just numbers on paper too me?

Anyone Maxent owners here think of a reason why I should consider the Vizio instead of the Maxent, besides the return policy?

We've had our 50X3 for about 2 weeks now and I've noticed a vertical line in the center of the display that sometimes shows up. The colors are off within that stripe - it's actually kind of hard to explain. The stripe about 10 pixels wide and 3/4 of the screen tall. Has anyone else had problems like this?

This is actually my first post but I have been following this thread for a while now. My husband and I saw the Maxent at Best Buy about five or six weeks ago and took notice at the price. It was considerably lower than the next comparable model. A week later we were in BB an walked by it again. We were still impressed and ended up purchasing the unit the next day after I googled all the reviews I could find. That is what led me here actually.

We purchased it and picked it up at the warehouse (Elkridge, MD) the same day. When we got it home I hooked it up to our DirecTV Tivo via SD and the picture only looked so-so. This was to be expected. I investigated DirecTV's HD package and found it not worth the cost (expensive receiver I had to buy not rent and + extra money per month a few channels and NO locals). I called Comcast and they offered a great deal for one year if I gave them my DTV receivers.

While I scheduled Comcast to install the new HD service, in the meantime we purchased a Toshiba 4980SU upscaling DVD player, a Denon AVR-1506 receiver, the mirage Nanosat speaker package, and the Harmony 880 remote control. We played many movies through component (which only allowed 480p) and it looked good.

To make a long story short(er)....here is what I ended up with....

Maxent 50x3 TV

Comcast HD DVR (SA8300 box) hooked up by Component (HDMI actually looked worse) - standard channels look better through this box too vs. DirecTV and the HD is fantastic. The blocking on peoples faces, etc. I attribute to the compression of the signal and have made adjustments so it's less noticeable. Audio run through optical cable to Denon Receiver.

Toshiba 4980SU - Hooked to tv by HDMI which allows upconvert to 1080i and it looks great. Coax digital out hooked to the receiver.

Denon AVR-1506 receiver - Once I figured out how to work the thing it's great and switches automatically between feeds of regular audio and 5.1. This is my first receiver.

Harmony 880 Remote - handles all of these functions like a champ! What else can I say.

In the end, through testing different cables and setups I love this TV. I can't imagine going back to the movies, ever. The picture is great despite all of the little flaws people are finding (to which I haven't seen any but the blocking to which I say it's the signal) I'm OK with it. Eventually this will end up in our bedroom and we will upgrade again. Anyone waiting to buy this TV shouldn't unless you are an extreme videophile.

So, from someone who couldn't find over a thousand dollars picture quality difference between a name brand and an off brand, I suggest buying this TV. Just be sure to get the service plan - you never know.

We've had our 50X3 for about 2 weeks now and I've noticed a vertical line in the center of the display that sometimes shows up. The colors are off within that stripe - it's actually kind of hard to explain. The stripe about 10 pixels wide and 3/4 of the screen tall. Has anyone else had problems like this?

Not exactly like that. I noticed a strange band on my set too and realized that the two recessed lights I have directly above the TV cause the black "frame" type band on the TV to create a band of shadow on the top portion of the set where the picture is. Nothing wrong with the TV though. I would check to see if you have anything reflecting in the background such as a tall lamp. I know it sounds silly but I thought that I had a problem too until I figured it out. Good luck.

Not exactly like that. I noticed a strange band on my set too and realized that the two recessed lights I have directly above the TV cause the black "frame" type band on the TV to create a band of shadow on the top portion of the set where the picture is. Nothing wrong with the TV though. I would check to see if you have anything reflecting in the background such as a tall lamp. I know it sounds silly but I thought that I had a problem too until I figured it out. Good luck.

It's definitely not a reflection - it shows up in the same place regardless of position. You can sit up close and see the affected pixels.

Maxent 50" 16:9 HDTV-Ready Plasma Television
Resolution: 1366 x 768
Contrast: 700:1
Brightness: 700 cd/m²
Built In Tuner, Stand Included


A lot of people were saying this display is BB exclusive, I just saw it on the Coscot site, this this not the same display?

--prosumer

No, it is a different display.

Maxent 50" 16:9 HDTV-Ready Plasma Television
Resolution: 1366 x 768
Contrast: 700:1
Brightness: 700 cd/m²
Built In Tuner, Stand Included


A lot of people were saying this display is BB exclusive, I just saw it on the Coscot site, this this not the same display?

--prosumer


The CostCo model is the 50x2. If you've read the 42x3 thread you know that CostCo has an amazing 42" plasma and Best Buy also has a 42" Maxent but they difference is night and day. This is the same story but reversed... Best Buy has the amazing version and CostCo has the garbage version when it comes to the 50" Maxent PDPs.

Maxent 50" 16:9 HDTV-Ready Plasma Television
Resolution: 1366 x 768
Contrast: 700:1
Brightness: 700 cd/m²
Built In Tuner, Stand Included


A lot of people were saying this display is BB exclusive, I just saw it on the Coscot site, this this not the same display?

--prosumerSomeone needs to read the thread again. :rolleyes: The Maxent 50" at Costco is NOT the same model. Not even close. This has been covered, oh, a thousand times or so.

anyone have any idea when/if BB will have this on sale again, or a nice coupon maybe? I'm hoping starting Monday, but haven't heard any rumors yet?
-m

anyone have any idea when/if BB will have this on sale again, or a nice coupon maybe? I'm hoping starting Monday, but haven't heard any rumors yet?
-mMiketsan21..no sale or coupon, or discount talk...,please,

Thanks

sry

sry

btrb

Hello...I did a google search for the 50x3 and ended up here. Quite a lengthy read! Very informative!

I won't be purchasing a new display until late Feb/ early March. Given the very limited availability now, am I going to be SOL when it comes time for me to buy?

Hello...I did a google search for the 50x3 and ended up here. Quite a lengthy read! Very informative!

I won't be purchasing a new display until late Feb/ early March. Given the very limited availability now, am I going to be SOL when it comes time for me to buy?Probably. Costco is not getting any more of the Costco-exclusive MX-42X3 models (not the same as the Maxent 42" at Best Buy) due to a shortage in the Panasonic glass used, so Maxent stop production and discontinued the model. What is that important? Rumor has it that the same applies to the Best-Buy exclusive MX-50X3 (which, likewise, is not the same as the Maxent 50" at Costco.) From what I've read/heard/seen so far is that the BB MX-50X3 is to be sold until stock is extinguished at the warehouses and will not be replaced by Maxent.

JonBoyG: Did you find the LCD TV that would work for both NTSC and PAL?
From my research, only panasonic TH-42PHD8UK model can do it. The new HDMI blade is even designed to work with PAL signal too. It's out of stock again. However, I am also looking for another model that can be purchased locally (just in case there is a problem).
Please let me know if anyone knows any other model..
Thank you

We ended up going with the Maxent, and I bought an Oppo dvd player that has been flawless at playing all my region 2 dvds.

Ok, I'm relatively sure this was covered somewhere in the last 29 pages, but I'll be damned if I can find it.

I can't seem to get my Maxent to save the settings for each input. I set my AVS(1) to 4:3 mode (for watching Tivo'd shows) and then 16:9 for my component inputs, but then it reverts back to 16:9 the next time I switch to it.

What am I doing wrong? I'm sure I read that it will actually save the settings for each input, but mine doesn't seem to.

Folks, I'm torn between this set and the Vizio P50HD at Costco. Is there a major difference between the two?

The Maxent has removable speakers, and I can buy it with no interest for 18 months. The Vizio comes with Costco's wonderful return policy.

What should I buy? Has anyone compared the sets?

Ok, I'm relatively sure this was covered somewhere in the last 29 pages, but I'll be damned if I can find it.

I can't seem to get my Maxent to save the settings for each input. I set my AVS(1) to 4:3 mode (for watching Tivo'd shows) and then 16:9 for my component inputs, but then it reverts back to 16:9 the next time I switch to it.

What am I doing wrong? I'm sure I read that it will actually save the settings for each input, but mine doesn't seem to.
Picture settings are saved for each input using the user settings. Aspect ratios are not saved.

Folks, I'm torn between this set and the Vizio P50HD at Costco. Is there a major difference between the two?

The Maxent has removable speakers, and I can buy it with no interest for 18 months. The Vizio comes with Costco's wonderful return policy.

What should I buy? Has anyone compared the sets?
Vizio uses fans for cooling, Maxent does not. Vizio, I believe, is LG glass while Maxent uses Panasonic glass.

Picture settings are saved for each input using the user settings. Aspect ratios are not saved.

Ahhh...of course. Thanks for clearing that up for me.

Vizio uses fans for cooling, Maxent does not. Vizio, I believe, is LG glass while Maxent uses Panasonic glass.

Thanks for your response but I'm a bit of a novice so I'm not sure if any of the above are better than the other. Are fans bad? Are they good? What about LG vs Panasonic glass?

Thanks!!

Thanks for your response but I'm a bit of a novice so I'm not sure if any of the above are better than the other. Are fans bad? Are they good? What about LG vs Panasonic glass?

Thanks!!

Panasonic is generally regarded as the Gold Standard in Glass manufacturing.

Fans are noisy and depending on the dB level are a nuisance to contend with when setting up an HT experience (you don't want any ambient noise intruding on your listening experience).

I finally got everything figured out and made some adjustments through the rs232 port with Hyperterminal. Thank you robertmee for all of your help, I never would have gotten it if you hadn't told me about tying pins 2 + 3 together to check things out. There was one thing that still baffles me, I had to use a straight cable instead of a null cable or adapter. I thought at first maybe I had a null cable and didn't know it like you said, but I checked it with my multimeter and every pin is connected straight through to it's respective # on the other end. Making the adjustments was a breeze and made the pq even better than before. If something were to happen to this monitor I would definitely buy it again ( Hopefully I have no troubles ). Listed below are the factory settings that mine had, and the Hyperterminal settings I used.

A.V. 1 + 2

RGN 331 RBS 339
GGN 363 GBS 307
BGN 325 BBS 350

COMP 1+2

RGN 331 RBS 492
GGN 363 GBS 512
BGN 325 BBS 496

RGB + HDMI

RGN 331 RBS 492
GGN 363 GBS 512
BGN 325 BBS 496


The hyperterminal settings were as follows:

Bits per second: 9600
Data Bits: 8
Parity: NONE
Stop Bits: 1
Flow Control: NONE
Local Echo: ON

Then followed the manual for COMMAND: DATA values ( had to have caps lock on)
recorded all of factory settings, then went to work making adjustments, saved adjustments with SAV:000. One thing to note, if I used the remote to change anything while doing this the monitor would revert back to the last saved settings.
Like I said before (and was so kindly reminded of by one of the forum members here) I'm not real good with computers. But with the help of the search function and other members here, I was able to perform this fairly simple task and I now have the ability adjust the colors to my liking and environment. Now if I can just get over this "tweaking bug" that I've come down with ;) I'll be all set!
Thanks again and hope this helps anyone having trouble trying to perform this on their display

I finally got everything figured out and made some adjustments through the rs232 port with Hyperterminal. Thank you robertmee for all of your help, I never would have gotten it if you hadn't told me about tying pins 2 + 3 together to check things out. There was one thing that still baffles me, I had to use a straight cable instead of a null cable or adapter. I thought at first maybe I had a null cable and didn't know it like you said, but I checked it with my multimeter and every pin is connected straight through to it's respective # on the other end. Making the adjustments was a breeze and made the pq even better than before. If something were to happen to this monitor I would definitely buy it again ( Hopefully I have no troubles ). Listed below are the factory settings that mine had, and the Hyperterminal settings I used.

A.V. 1 + 2

RGN 331 RBS 339
GGN 363 GBS 307
BGN 325 BBS 350

COMP 1+2

RGN 331 RBS 492
GGN 363 GBS 512
BGN 325 BBS 496

RGB + HDMI

RGN 331 RBS 492
GGN 363 GBS 512
BGN 325 BBS 496


The hyperterminal settings were as follows:

Bits per second: 9600
Data Bits: 8
Parity: NONE
Stop Bits: 1
Flow Control: NONE
Local Echo: ON

Then followed the manual for COMMAND: DATA values ( had to have caps lock on)
recorded all of factory settings, then went to work making adjustments, saved adjustments with SAV:000. One thing to note, if I used the remote to change anything while doing this the monitor would revert back to the last saved settings.
Like I said before (and was so kindly reminded of by one of the forum members here) I'm not real good with computers. But with the help of the search function and other members here, I was able to perform this fairly simple task and I now have the ability adjust the colors to my liking and environment. Now if I can just get over this "tweaking bug" that I've come down with ;) I'll be all set!
Thanks again and hope this helps anyone having trouble trying to perform this on their display

Good Job....Glad it worked out for you!

Of interest would be what your new values are. I know it's subjective and dependent upon source equipment but it would still be of interest to see what you ended up adjusting.

Here are my new RGB settings for AV 1 and Comp 2

AV 1 is as follows: Directv DVR hooked up via S-Video

RGN 320 RBS 330
GGN 350 GBS 295
BGN 325 BBS 350

I didn't change the Blue settings yet, will wait a few days to get used to the new settings, I may pull the green down a little more, it looks great on sports but I'm undecided on other programming. Like the picture quality, the greens seem to vary from channel to channel.


Comp 2 is as follows: Roughly 8 year old Onkyo dvd/cd player hooked up via component video.

RGN 290 RBS 275
GGN 325 GBS 254
BGN 316 BBS 267

I'll probably get hammered by some people for using such an old dvd player, But it works, I like it and I'm satisfied with the picture quality.

Thanks again!!!

I'll probably get hammered by some people for using such an old dvd player, But it works, I like it and I'm satisfied with the picture quality.



If it's that old, is it an interlace only model? I have a 300 DVD changer (Pioneer Elite F07) that's interlace only through component, and I didn't find the picture to be as good as my Panasonic RP56 progressive scan player.

If it's that old, is it an interlace only model? I have a 300 DVD changer (Pioneer Elite F07) that's interlace only through component, and I didn't find the picture to be as good as my Panasonic RP56 progressive scan player.


Yeah, its interlace only, the progressive scan players started showing up on the market not too long after I bought it. I'm going upgrade to a better unit later on, then I'll probably wonder how I ever watched movies on this thing :p I'm going to start researching soon to figure out which one will be best for what I have.

I just got my $200 gift card. Anybody know if I can get BB to apply it towards my Maxent that I bought < month ago?

I just got my $200 gift card. Anybody know if I can get BB to apply it towards my Maxent that I bought < month ago?Probably not. It's not good on prior purchases. IF you can get them to do a return and re-buy, you might be able to, but it would be done at the current price, which is not the same as the sale. You can, however, use it for the extended warranty, if you haven't already gotten it.

HDMI splitter (Video/Audio Splitter - HDMI M to HDMI F X 2 (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10422&cs_id=1042203&p_id=2522&style=&seq=1&format=1))
Pro: fairly cheap! ($14.66 + shipping)
Con: Possible issue if both devices are left on.
Con: (Possible) User on another board sent this to me: "There was a thread on AVS forums where it [the HDMI splitter linked above] did not work correctly for someone who had purchased the splitter. Some problems with syncing with the HDMI input and that it worked only occassionally."
Con: This solution assumes you only have two DVI or HDMI sources. More than that, and this solution is not sufficient.

Yes, please keep us posted on this. I only have one HDMI source right now, but am thinking of upgrading the DVD player to an upconverting one with HDMI and was wondering how I would handle it.

I am thinking the splitter won't work for me since my two HDMI sources would then be a DVD player and a HD-DVR (that would be on all the time).Got the splitter Friday, and tried to use it. No go. The HDMI source for the Oppo DVD player just showed a garbled image for a sec, then went to the standard "all blue" screen for the Maxent, as if there were no input. :( I may play with it a bit more, but I think I may be echoing the comment I made in the 3rd bullet point. http://tampabaymiatas.net/forum/images/smiles/icon_cry.gif
Also would love to know if the Harmony 676/680 (ordering one once I decide which button layout I like better) works with the HDMI switch. Anyone out there have a similar setup?Well, I have the 880. And it CAN learn commands. But I do not know if it can be used as part of the macro (i.e., press the "Watch DVD" option on the 880, and have it select the #2 input from the HDMI switch box.) http://tampabaymiatas.net/forum/images/smiles/dontknow.gif

Seeing as I don't watch many DVDs, manually switching the cables, whilst cumbersome, is probably what I'll go with for now (after all, the choices are: switch cables occassionally - less than 2 or 3 times per month, MAX, or spend ~$100 for a switch box. Hmmm... http://tampabaymiatas.net/forum/images/smiles/eusa_think.gif)

I've dug through this thread, and it sounds like this set has definitely has panasonic glass, but does anyone know if it is the latest generation? I read how the lastest generation is supposed to be more resistant to burn-in, so I was wondering how stressed I should be during the break-in. Thanks all
-m

I've dug through this thread, and it sounds like this set has definitely has panasonic glass, but does anyone know if it is the latest generation? I read how the lastest generation is supposed to be more resistant to burn-in, so I was wondering how stressed I should be during the break-in. Thanks all
-mThere's really no way for us to tell. It's most likely either 7th gen (last years, one gen old) or possibly 8th gen. Either way, both of them are recent and abuot as resistent to burn-in as one could expect.

Yesterday I saw this Maxent right next to Pio 43 and some other higher end displays. The white scenes were yellow on the Max as compared to the others. I asked the salesman who APPEARED to be fairly knowledgable. He said they were all set up the same (whatever that means). Was this a peculiarity specific to this demo unit, or is the Max known for the yellowish whites? If so, can it be adjusted out?

Also, the Pio 43 and even the 50 had far better resolution than any of the other plasma panels. When I asked another salesman why that was, he said the Pios were just better made. Is that true, because the difference was striking?

So I am about to pull the trigger on this set from BB. They don't have it instock, however, the local DC is only 10 minutes away (I live in MN, near by BB HQ). There is one little problem that is nagging me from sealing this deal and that is: Extended Warranty.

The EW is approximately 1/6 of the value of the TV and it is for four years. I guess I am curious if other buyers of this set, purchased the EW? Is it worth it?

So I am about to pull the trigger on this set from BB. They don't have it instock, however, the local DC is only 10 minutes away (I live in MN, near by BB HQ). There is one little problem that is nagging me from sealing this deal and that is: Extended Warranty.

The EW is approximately 1/6 of the value of the TV and it is for four years. I guess I am curious if other buyers of this set, purchased the EW? Is it worth it?

I've been reading numerous threads here about extended warranties since i'm looking at buying this set as well. Maxent gives you a year, and my Visa doubles it to two years. Best Buy wants $400 for a 4-year warranty, so in effect you are paying $400 for the extra two years, plus the guaranteed in-home service and replacement features.

Somehow it just doesn't seem worth it for a the money.

Yesterday I saw this Maxent right next to Pio 43 and some other higher end displays. The white scenes were yellow on the Max as compared to the others. I asked the salesman who APPEARED to be fairly knowledgable. He said they were all set up the same (whatever that means). Was this a peculiarity specific to this demo unit, or is the Max known for the yellowish whites? If so, can it be adjusted out?

Also, the Pio 43 and even the 50 had far better resolution than any of the other plasma panels. When I asked another salesman why that was, he said the Pios were just better made. Is that true, because the difference was striking?

I've heard this set had greenish whites too elsewhere in this thread. I have not experienced this...my whites appear white and I just watched some skiing show on HD last night so I was paying close attention to the white levels and they all looked perfectly white to me.

Of course, I am looking at it in my living room as opposed to right next to other displays, so it might be harder to tell without something to compare it to.

I have no complaints about my Maxent, and I've had it just over a week. My guess is the display just wasn't calibrated correctly.

I've been reading numerous threads here about extended warranties since i'm looking at buying this set as well. Maxent gives you a year, and my Visa doubles it to two years. Best Buy wants $400 for a 4-year warranty, so in effect you are paying $400 for the extra two years, plus the guaranteed in-home service and replacement features.

Somehow it just doesn't seem worth it for a the money.

I came to the same conclusion as you...so I didn't get it. I may regret it...I may not. Only time will tell. It's all a gamble and how much risk you're willing to take. For me, if it breaks after my two year's warranty is up, it will suck, but it'll also be a good excuse to buy a new (and hopefully affordable by then) 1080P set.

Yesterday I saw this Maxent right next to Pio 43 and some other higher end displays. The white scenes were yellow on the Max as compared to the others. I asked the salesman who APPEARED to be fairly knowledgable. He said they were all set up the same (whatever that means). Was this a peculiarity specific to this demo unit, or is the Max known for the yellowish whites? If so, can it be adjusted out?

Also, the Pio 43 and even the 50 had far better resolution than any of the other plasma panels. When I asked another salesman why that was, he said the Pios were just better made. Is that true, because the difference was striking?

The whites looked yellow because I will almost bet your life that the color temp was set on warm. Set it to cool and the whites will transform to bright white. When I first demoed the Maxent I noticed the yellowish whites too. Setting the color temp to cool ALMOST corrected it completely, but compared to the Panasonic it was still a little 'creamy', not yellow. However, once I got my own unit and calibrated it at home, I have never noticed it again.

As for the Pio 43, you can't compare the rez to any 50" models, because any 43" is going to look better looking at it 6' away in Best Buy than a 50". They almost all have the same pixel resolutions, but of course the 43" has the pixels more condensed than a 50" display. Less space, more dense. However, when you back up to normal viewing distances of 10 to 12', you won't notice a difference.

Lastly, I can almost guarantee you that the higher marked up sets like the Panasonics and Pioneers are given way more attention to setup than a low margin display like the Maxent. Best Buy wants to sell as many of the $4000 displays as they can, and none of the $2000 sets that are their loss leaders. The $2000 sets get you in the door, then the $4000 sets wow you and you take one home.

I've been reading numerous threads here about extended warranties since i'm looking at buying this set as well. Maxent gives you a year, and my Visa doubles it to two years. Best Buy wants $400 for a 4-year warranty, so in effect you are paying $400 for the extra two years, plus the guaranteed in-home service and replacement features.

Somehow it just doesn't seem worth it for a the money.
I came to the same conclusion as you...so I didn't get it. I may regret it...I may not. Only time will tell. It's all a gamble and how much risk you're willing to take. For me, if it breaks after my two year's warranty is up, it will suck, but it'll also be a good excuse to buy a new (and hopefully affordable by then) 1080P set.The interesting (to me, at least) part of the BB EW is that it also covers power surges. MOST warranties do not, AFAIK.

I look at it this way: I live in FL, the lightning capital of the US*, and a power surge is bound to happen. If/when it does, and if/when it damages my set, BB gives me the entire purchase price (including the EW) toward the purchase of a new set. In 3 or so years, LCD HDTVs should b right about where plasmas are now (if not less.) So I'll basically get a new TV with minimal hassle and/or price difference.

*Many people think that FL is the "lightning capital of the world"; actually, Rwanda, Africa is the lightning capitol of the world, receiving nearly 2.5 times the amount of lightning as Florida (http://www.thecomputerwizard.biz/lightning.htm). (Source: Tropical Rainfall Measurement Mission Satellite, 2002) However, central Florida, from Tampa to Titusville is "Lightning Alley" in the U.S. - and I live in Tampa. :(

So I just got done doing an instore comparison with a collegue of mine. Here's the contestants:

1) Maxent MX-50X3
2) Samsung R5052
3) Panny 50U
4) LG PX50?
5) Hitachi 55S?

IMHO, the clear winner in terms of best PQ/performance for the price is the Maxent. It had the best blacks next to the Panasonic, way better than the samsung, better colors/sharpness than the Samsung and LG. The Hitachi was nice, but the colors were too unatural? After all of the hype on this site about the Panny, well, it was really nice, but personally it wasn't $1K nicer. I really was narrowed down to the Maxent or Samsung, but the blacks on the Sammy left something to be desired. We figured out that this has alot to do with the glass itself, as when both the Max and Sammy are off, the Max looks black while the Sammy looks grey. The LG was nice, but I think it's overpriced, although the 2 yr warranty is nice.
Anyway, I do believe I will be buying the Maxent this weekend, as it provides the best bang for the buck for me personally.
I just wish it was on sale at the store ;(
-m

I checked out the Maxent again in BB yesterday, I asked the sales guy who approached me why it was so much cheaper than the other sets surrounding it (all about $3-4k). His response was that the whites weren't as good on the maxent, but then he pointed to a phillips and thought that was the maxent, so I'm not sure he really knew what he was talking about.

I think i'm going to pull the trigger on this one, I've also been considering the Vizio P50 at Costco, but the Maxent has removable speakers, better glass, no fan, is cheaper, and I can double the warranty by using my credit card.

The only benefit to the Vizio from what others have posted in various threads is the higher contrast ration.

BTW, there is a discrepency between what BB lists the set for on its web site and what it lists it for in the store, the store rep said he'd meet the web site price.

imref:
funny you should mention that, cuz doing our comparison's today, I forgot to mention that we saw a philips @ BB and it had the worst whites out of all! It looked like cream compared to the Max, Sammy, Panny + LG.
Yup, never take anything those BB kids seriously!

DVD Rec's:
So here's what I'm thinking...I can get the OPPO and run DVI to the Maxent, then run HDMI from my cable box(Comcast Moto) to the Maxent. Only problem is that I've read issues with the Oppo, so was thinking of trying out the LG 511 from BB. The problem there is then I'd have to use my HDMI input on the Max for the dvd player, and the Comcast box would have to be via component. Is there anything wrong with going that route, will I notice a diff between HDMI and comp. with the Comcast box?

The problem there is then I'd have to use my HDMI input on the Max for the dvd player, and the Comcast box would have to be via component. Is there anything wrong with going that route, will I notice a diff between HDMI and comp. with the Comcast box?

I think most have noted no discernable difference between HDMI and Component on the Maxent.

so I'd be safe going with the LG via HDMI and Comcast via component?

anyone have any thoughts about the LG vs. Oppo, or any other upconverint dvd player? is anyone using an upconverting player with the 50X3?

imref:
funny you should mention that, cuz doing our comparison's today, I forgot to mention that we saw a philips @ BB and it had the worst whites out of all! It looked like cream compared to the Max, Sammy, Panny + LG.
Yup, never take anything those BB kids seriously!

DVD Rec's:
So here's what I'm thinking...I can get the OPPO and run DVI to the Maxent, then run HDMI from my cable box(Comcast Moto) to the Maxent. Only problem is that I've read issues with the Oppo, so was thinking of trying out the LG 511 from BB. The problem there is then I'd have to use my HDMI input on the Max for the dvd player, and the Comcast box would have to be via component. Is there anything wrong with going that route, will I notice a diff between HDMI and comp. with the Comcast box?

I was just curious what issues were people having with OPPO and this display or was it HDMI? I thought this display did not come with DVI? I went and looked at this display at my local best buy tonight with a friend for a good 20 minutes. I was really impressed and thought it stacked up well compared to the Pioneers, LG, and Samsungs.

Was it decided that this unit does use panny glass and circuit boards? Are there any current discounts that I can take advantage of through Best Buy? I apologize if that was against the forum policies, and just ignore it.

I am considering picking up this unit along with the OPPO and Comcast Digital Cable package. (Small one)

Great thread guys!

Anyone know anything about either of these?
Samsung DVD-HD850 or Toshiba SDK850

From what I've read here, they seem to be the same player, with the Tosh being a Sammy clone for 1/2 price. Seem like decent reviews, and costco has the Tosh for a steal with cable included. I might try and pick one up if they have it still.

I don't suppose anyone is using one of these with there Max?

...Anyway, I do believe I will be buying the Maxent this weekend, as it provides the best bang for the buck for me personally.
I just wish it was on sale at the store ;(
-mIt is. Ignore the price tag, ignore the CSR who says it's regular price. When they scan the UPC to ring it up, it will ring up at the sale price. And - if by some odd chance - it doesn't, they will PM their own website.

I am so ready to pull the trigger on this puppy, it's just that the 06 models are around the corner :D

I am so ready to pull the trigger on this puppy, it's just that the 06 models are around the corner :D

This TV is the '06 model which is why it was released this month.

This TV is the '06 model which is why it was released this month.

ah thanks, what i meant was that other 06 models from various companies are coming out within a few weeks-month

Does anyone wonder why this panel doesn't have a fan? Could the fact that its components may be subjected to more heat (no fan) mean a shorter life? I know that with my Hitachi RPTV, it was explained that repeated heat/cold will eventually break loose solder connections on the PC boards.

Does anyone wonder why this panel doesn't have a fan? Could the fact that its components may be subjected to more heat (no fan) mean a shorter life? I know that with my Hitachi RPTV, it was explained that repeated heat/cold will eventually break loose solder connections on the PC boards.

Could be numerous reasons...Likely a combination of consumer's desire for less noise, and of course, the manufacturer's desire to build a cheaper product. Even though it has no fan, it does have some honking heat sinks which is what is drawing the heat off of the electronics and giving the back panel that warm and fuzzy feel.

I'm going with the 50x3. If I can't find one, then the 42x3.

With no tuner, am I correct in assuming that by using the Comcast Dual DVR that I can record one channel and view another by using the dual tuners in the DVR?

I have no experience with a DVR. I assume it is like using a VCR to tune when hooked up to a TV.

And are we CONFIRMED that Costco is now NOT going to get the 50x3? My Costco still has the 42x3 in stock.

With no tuner, am I correct in assuming that by using the Comcast Dual DVR that I can record one channel and view another by using the dual tuners in the DVR?

Yes, you can use the "swap" button to choose between tuners.

Made the 50X3 purchase this morning!!! It's being delivered Sat. so I'll let you know my thoughts next week.
Now I've just gotta get a dvd player to go with it. What's everyone else using, anyone using upconverting player?
I'm thinking either of these:
Samsung DVD-HD850 or Toshiba SDK850

any help is appreciated!
-m

I'm going with the 50x3. If I can't find one, then the 42x3.

...

And are we CONFIRMED that Costco is now NOT going to get the 50x3? My Costco still has the 42x3 in stock.


Has the Costco no go on the 50x3 been confirmed? As for the 42x3, consider yourself lucky. Most Costco's discontinued them in-store; it is through the website only.

Also, when does the Best Buy exclusive end? I heard it was just through the holidays.

First off, thank you to everyone in this thread for the great information. I was at the local BB on Monday and was wandering through the TV section when I saw the 50x3. It looked every bit as good as the other 50" plasmas, if not better, with a much better price. I called the wife over, and she too was impressed. Since we'd never heard of Maxent, I decided to go home and do a little research, thus finding this great thread that has provided me with so much useful information.

I ordered my 50x3 from BB on Tuesday night, and it will be in on Saturday (possibly Fri!). They price matched the internet sale price. In preparation, I'm upgrading some of my cables and trying to figure out how I want to hook things up, and I have a few questions.

Instead of using a stereo receiver, I have a computer hooked into my TV with an ATI Radeon All-in-Wonder (9000) and a high quality 5.1 sound card which I use to play DVDs, CDs and mp3s. This was my homemade Tivo before I moved and had to get DirecTV ( I now use a DirecTV DVR for recording TV). I have this hooked to my junky 10yr old 27" Panasonic via composite video (it didn't even have S-video input!). What I'm wondering is:

1 What is the best way to hook the 50x3 to the video card? The video card actually has a DVI out instead of regular VGA out. I have a DVI-VGA adapter, so I can either do VGA, S-Video or, if I buy a DVI to HDMI adapter (about $13 at the local Frye's), I can go out through the DVI of the card to the HDMI of the TV. Which would give me the highest quality picture? (running in 50x3 native resolution of 1366x768)

2. What kind of quality can I expect playing DVDs through the computer? I just have a regular Sony DVD-ROM in the computer, and after hearing about "progressive scanning" and "upconverting", I'm a little concerned about the DVD quality in this kind of setup. How would the quality from a PC compare with the quality of a bottom of the line and top of the line DVD player?

Thanks in advance,
Ron

Is anybody using the comcast dual DVR (Motorola 3412) with this TV? I am having issues apparently.

I am using components to attach the comcast DVR to the TV. I am also using the 50/50/22 settings on the TV for contrast/brightness/color that was suggested earlier in this thread.

Everything looks fine using those settings on the HD channels and DVD playback, and even for my S-Video from the Tivo feed.

However, on any non-HD channel through the comcast box (comedy central, FX...etc) the picture is so dark I can barely see it. Everybody looks like sillouettes. I have to crank the brightness up to 90-100 just to see any details, but then everything looks crappy anyways due to the color/contrast needing adjusted.

I'm not even sure what to look at. Is it a problem with the comcast box? The cable feed? Anyone else having this problem?

1 What is the best way to hook the 50x3 to the video card? The video card actually has a DVI out instead of regular VGA out. I have a DVI-VGA adapter, so I can either do VGA, S-Video or, if I buy a DVI to HDMI adapter (about $13 at the local Frye's), I can go out through the DVI of the card to the HDMI of the TV. Which would give me the highest quality picture? (running in 50x3 native resolution of 1366x768)

Well, since you already have the DVI-VGA adapter, I would try that first. I'm not sure what the native resolution will actually be though. In the manual, it says that it supports 1280x720p or 1920x1080i, not 1366x768. I don't know why it wouldn't list its actual pixel resolution of 1366x768.


2. What kind of quality can I expect playing DVDs through the computer? I just have a regular Sony DVD-ROM in the computer, and after hearing about "progressive scanning" and "upconverting", I'm a little concerned about the DVD quality in this kind of setup. How would the quality from a PC compare with the quality of a bottom of the line and top of the line DVD player?

Using a decent software player like TheaterTek or Zoomplayer, you will likely exceed the quality of most standalone DVD players. I wouldn't worry at all. As for upconverting, I actually think those DVD players display worse than a standard 480p player. Depending on the player they certainly introduce artifacts and macroblocking.

Thanks in advance,
Ron[/QUOTE]

Is anybody using the comcast dual DVR (Motorola 3412) with this TV? I am having issues apparently.

I am using components to attach the comcast DVR to the TV. I am also using the 50/50/22 settings on the TV for contrast/brightness/color that was suggested earlier in this thread.

Everything looks fine using those settings on the HD channels and DVD playback, and even for my S-Video from the Tivo feed.

However, on any non-HD channel through the comcast box (comedy central, FX...etc) the picture is so dark I can barely see it. Everybody looks like sillouettes. I have to crank the brightness up to 90-100 just to see any details, but then everything looks crappy anyways due to the color/contrast needing adjusted.

I'm not even sure what to look at. Is it a problem with the comcast box? The cable feed? Anyone else having this problem?

I have TWC and a PACE HD box, however, I experience similar, although not to the extreme you mention. On SD channels, the video is definitely darker. That's why I use both component and S-video from the one box. On HD and Digital channels I use component, on SD analog I switch over to s-video.

So I finally pulled the trigger and purchased my 50x3 yesterday at BB. They didn't have it instock, so I drove a few miles and picked one up from the local DC. Brought it home and it looked great! I haggled with the sales person, and got them to drop 10% off, which allowed me to get the 4 year plan cheaply.


Got my 8300HD(I think) from Time Warner and they gave some component cables along with it. SD of course doesn't look to hot, though acceptable. This is coming from a long time owner of a 10 year old 32 in Toshiba. HD, however, looks fantastic. Whites look pretty good and the blacks are phenominal. Watched Batman Begins in Component, was a tad dark.

I need to purchase some HDMI and DVI cables to hook up everything. Anyone know some decent sites to pick some up? I refuse to pay BB $$$ for what they want for the cables.

snip


Got my 8300HD(I think) from Time Warner and they gave some component cables along with it. SD of course doesn't look to hot, though acceptable. This is coming from a long time owner of a 10 year old 32 in Toshiba. HD, however, looks fantastic. Whites look pretty good and the blacks are phenominal. Watched Batman Begins in Component, was a tad dark.

I need to purchase some HDMI and DVI cables to hook up everything. Anyone know some decent sites to pick some up? I refuse to pay BB $$$ for what they want for the cables.


I got my cables from Cablewholesale.com and am very happy with the price and quality.

Here's an interesting review from PC World - http://www.pcworld.com/reviews/article/0,aid,121777,00.asp

They were so inexpensive (compared to Monster) I ended up buying extras.

FWIW, I got my set on 12/6 and have been thrilled since day one with my Maxent.

I also have Time Warner (Cary, NC) and had never had a DVR/STB before. I called their tech support before buying cables and they did mention that the 8300 has the HDMI port activated now. I suspected that it may have been an issue at some point.

Like you, they delivered it with component cables and the ones they provided seem to work fine. I'm using the HDMI port from my Toshiba DVD player and I'm using optical cables to pump the audio from the STB and the DVD player into my Yamaha receiver.

A couple of questions for you guys on this... I have scanned the thread and can't seem to find difinitive answers on these questions.

1. How long does it take to switch between sources. I have seen plasmas that can take up to 10 seconds to switch.

2. Are there discreet codes for the individual inputs as well as the power off and power on.

3. Can powerstrip represent a pixel perfect image at 1366x768?

4. Is there a service menu other than the rs-232 link mentioned in this thread (ie. through the remote)

5. Can you switch inputs and turn it on/off via rs-232 commands.

6. Is the DVI input a DVI-D or DVI-A. DVI-A would allow a vga signal to be plugged in via an adapter.

7. Since my Best Buy does not have one of these. Can anyone tell me if the surrounding bezel (case) is rounded or has sharp edges (ie. european look).

Thanks in advance...

David.

1. How long does it take to switch between sources. I have seen plasmas that can take up to 10 seconds to switch.

2. Are there discreet codes for the individual inputs as well as the power off and power on.

3. Can powerstrip represent a pixel perfect image at 1366x768?

4. Is there a service menu other than the rs-232 link mentioned in this thread (ie. through the remote)

5. Can you switch inputs and turn it on/off via rs-232 commands.

6. Is the DVI input a DVI-D or DVI-A. DVI-A would allow a vga signal to be plugged in via an adapter.

7. Since my Best Buy does not have one of these. Can anyone tell me if the surrounding bezel (case) is rounded or has sharp edges (ie. european look).

1. About 4 seconds on my set.
2. Yes
4. Don't know, Maxent told me via email that they would have more documentation on their website "soon".
7. The bezel on the set is curved, the bezel on the removable speakers is only slightly curved.

goto maxentusa site for a bit of info and pictures.

A couple of questions for you guys on this... I have scanned the thread and can't seem to find difinitive answers on these questions.

1. How long does it take to switch between sources. I have seen plasmas that can take up to 10 seconds to switch.

2. Are there discreet codes for the individual inputs as well as the power off and power on.

3. Can powerstrip represent a pixel perfect image at 1366x768?

4. Is there a service menu other than the rs-232 link mentioned in this thread (ie. through the remote)

5. Can you switch inputs and turn it on/off via rs-232 commands.

6. Is the DVI input a DVI-D or DVI-A. DVI-A would allow a vga signal to be plugged in via an adapter.

7. Since my Best Buy does not have one of these. Can anyone tell me if the surrounding bezel (case) is rounded or has sharp edges (ie. european look).

Thanks in advance...

David.

1. Like he said...4 seconds
2. Yes, all of the above
3. I think so...I know that the 42x3 users which have the same 1366x768 have done it.
4. No, serial only...Unless it is hidden or there is a secret IR command
5. Yes
6. There is no DVI input...that's a misprint by BB. HDMI only
7. Rounded with about a 1/8" Fillet

Anybody using an IR repeater for hidden AV equipment with there Maxent yet? I'm using a Hot Link Pro and the only place to locate the IR sensor to where I get no spurious IR noise from the plasma panel is completely behind the unit about 3 inches (recessed in the wall). That eliminates the noise, but severely reduces the range of a remote to about 10 to 12'.

Robert

I have TWC and a PACE HD box, however, I experience similar, although not to the extreme you mention. On SD channels, the video is definitely darker. That's why I use both component and S-video from the one box. On HD and Digital channels I use component, on SD analog I switch over to s-video.

Thanks. Maybe I will do that also. I think I will comcast to see what the deal is first.

How would I go about configuring my Comcast STB (Motorola) to function as the remote for the Maxent also?

I was looking to get a Harmony 880. Anyone have any issue trying to use the Harmony remote with the Maxent?

Robertmee,
Back on page 13, you posted your numbers for Component and S-Video. I've been using them and they make the pic look really good. Have you had a chance to calibrate the HDMI numbers and if so, would you mind sharing them?

How would I go about configuring my Comcast STB (Motorola) to function as the remote for the Maxent also?

I was looking to get a Harmony 880. Anyone have any issue trying to use the Harmony remote with the Maxent?

Robertmee,
Back on page 13, you posted your numbers for Component and S-Video. I've been using them and they make the pic look really good. Have you had a chance to calibrate the HDMI numbers and if so, would you mind sharing them?

I just set my Harmony up today for the Maxent and it works like a champ....When selecting the TV device, don't select monitor (non-tuner) as you would think, as the maxent brand doesn't show up. Select TV with Tuner brands, and the Maxent is listed. Just type in MX-50X3 for model, and it worked great. I had to delete non-existant AV3 and DVI input selections, but the volume, mute, and other input selections worked perfect.

No, I don't have an HDMI source as of yet. I'm using 4 inputs....AV1 - SD from HD box, AV2 - VCR for tuning security cameras, Component 1 for HD from HD box and Component 2 for XBMC modded x-box. The Harmony handled all of these with no problem.

Thanks for all the useful information you guys have provided here. It is invaluable to us HD noobs.

I will be picking up my MX-50x3 first thing in the morning in OKC. Thanks to 30 pages and 900+ posts on this PDP I am confident I will enjoy my first HD PQ.
Now to get rid of my trusty 32" RCA CRT and 8'x5' entertainment center.


I have one question. Is there a difference between "component" and "wideband component" or is this another crafty marketing term used to push expensive cables?

Looking forward to HD on Jan. 4th when Texas not only covers but puts USC defense in it's place!


Happy New Year!!

Anybody using an IR repeater for hidden AV equipment with there Maxent yet? I'm using a Hot Link Pro and the only place to locate the IR sensor to where I get no spurious IR noise from the plasma panel is completely behind the unit about 3 inches (recessed in the wall). That eliminates the noise, but severely reduces the range of a remote to about 10 to 12'.

Robert
I just set my Buffalo IR repeater system up tonight. I too had tons of interference from the plasma (my emitter LEDs were constantly on). After moving the sensor around my living room, trying every possible location, I found a solution. My sensor is the bullet style, which I have placed directly behind the panel, sitting on top of the stand (it is not mounted in any way). The sensor's eye is pointed perpendicular to the panel, which is the trick that made all the difference for me. This must be a strong sensor because it is not visible from any location in the room and is not facing any of my seating areas, yet works 100% of the time. The only other way to get rid of the noise for me was to hold the sensor 3-4" behind the panel, but this would require mounting the sensor inside my fireplace which is obviously a bad idea.

Brian

The only other way to get rid of the noise for me was to hold the sensor 3-4" behind the panel, but this would require mounting the sensor inside my fireplace which is obviously a bad idea.

Brian

That's what I initially did...It was in my recessed outlet box behind the TV and was the only way to initially get rid of the noise. However, I found that if I moved it to behind the speaker and on top, pointed to the side and not to the front, I also had minimal noise and it increased the range dramatically. I can now stand in the kitchen and operate the equipment...about 15' away.

What the deal with price posting? I posted a thread asking why prices could not be posted and it was apparantly deleted. What is the issue here with comparing prices. A forum is only as good as ALL the information allowed. Is this a vendor site?

OK, don't understand why there are no prices, BUT DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE THERE IS A FORUM WHERE THEY DO POST PRICES?
Thanks

Well, I finally pulled the trigger on the Maxent at Best Buy this morning. The salesman was very quick to match an old online sales price that I printed out. Unfortunately, I found out after finishing my no-interest financing app, I was told they didn't have it in stock. He threw in free delivery after that, so I guess I can't complain too much. I broke down and said yes to the 4 year extended warranty at $299, which I had not planned on purchasing. Since I was financing the thing anyway, it seemed like it might be worth it. Anyone know if I can "return" the warranty if I change my mind before the TV is delivered?

I'm really anxious to see how plasma looks in my own home with a good HD signal. I owned a Samsung DLP for about 2 weeks about 1.5 years ago. As much as I loved the picture, I saw rainbows, and more importantly, got headachs after a short time of watching. For the last several months I had been planning to pick up the 56" JVC 720p LCOS. Then, about a month ago I foolishly stopped into the plasma forum, and learned about the Maxent. When I saw it could be had for about the same price, a little less in fact, than the JVC sales prices I had seen, I figured I had to give it a try. I think I'll miss the extra 6", but the ability to wall mount it and remove the speakers will be nice. My wife had been begging me not to get the 56" TV, so this should make her a little happier as well.

The fact that I was never able to see the two TVs (or at least the two different technologies) side by side will bother me. Then again, maybe I'll get the Maxent in my house, be blown away by the picture, and never think about the JVC again :-)

Now that I have made the TV choice, I need to start figuring out answers to all of the other questions. HDMI or component? Upconverting DVD player? Cable, OTA, or both (no Fox on Charter here)? Which wall mount? Moxi DVR from Charter? I guess the fun is just beginning :-)

What the deal with price posting? I posted a thread asking why prices could not be posted and it was apparantly deleted. What is the issue here with comparing prices. A forum is only as good as ALL the information allowed. Is this a vendor site?

A Forum is also only as good as the members who join and follow the rules. ;)

AVSForums is a forum for discussing technologies not for finding the best deal. Sure, we all want to save money, and AVS provides a section for users and sellers to sell their wares, but they don't want the forums polluted with so many threads about where the best deals are.


OK, don't understand why there are no prices, BUT DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE THERE IS A FORUM WHERE THEY DO POST PRICES?
Thanks

There is a similar Maxent MX-50x3 thread on Fatwallet.

Now that I have made the TV choice, I need to start figuring out answers to all of the other questions. HDMI or component? Upconverting DVD player? Cable, OTA, or both (no Fox on Charter here)? Which wall mount? Moxi DVR from Charter? I guess the fun is just beginning :-)

Either HDMI or component seems to do well on this set. Most have noticed no discernable difference with HDMI. The benefit of HDMI is that it allows PIP with other inputs.

Upconverting DVD players are a crapshoot...Search for Monolithic's posts within this thread and see the troubles he had with players and Macroblocking.

I'd prefer Cable for an all inclusive package...Be aware the Maxent has no NTSC or ATSC tuners, so you can't just hook up an OTA antenna. You'll have to use an external tuner of some sort.

Sanus Wall Mount VMPL...Look for user av-clearance on e-bay for one source. I bought mine from him and it is a terrific mount, hangs easily, and has tilt adjustment which helps alot for connecting the cables.

Robert

I purchased this tv about a month ago, and I'm starting to notice on scenes that have a lot of light colors (80% white and yellows) the entire screen will turn very bright. Example: when watching family guy, when someone is talking depending on how many light colors are being displayed, all the blacks and other dark colors will jump from blacks to a light gray, completely washing out the picture.

Has anyone else experienced this?

QQ, does anyone know for sure if this set uses Panny glass and parts? thanks!

Well, I picked up the monster yesterday and it looks phenomenal. The first input that popped up when I first turned the 50x3 on was the RGB input from my PC. The PC had autodetected the monitor and it looked awesome. It had automatically set the resolution to 1366x768. I popped the Star Wars Episode III DVD into the PC to see how it looked, and once I got the brightness and contrast adjusted a little it was beautiful. I was a little suprised to still see the movie letterboxed tho. I figured it would be full screen. With the RGB input, there are no options for changing the screen (wide, stretch, etc), so what was coming out of the PC was being seen as is on the TV.

Next up was the DirecTV HD receiver, and that too looked amazing. I live out in the woods, and receiving local broadcasts via antenna has been kinda spotty. When the DTV tech came in to install my new HD box, he plugged the RF antenna (for the remote) into the TV antenna input just to see what would happen. Surprise!!!! I got almost all of my local channels in HD through that simple, tiny antenna! The CBS channel is always a pain, so I'll probabably have to get a better antenna to pick that up. Can't miss Survivor, after all!

One thing that surprised me was the quality of the SD display. It was very good. When we looked at the SD signal in the store, it looked pretty bad, but we saw that it looked bad on every TV on the wall, so I figured it had more to do with the signal than any of the displays. Luckily, I was right, and the SD picture on the 50x3 is very watchable.

I set up my old Sony RM-AV2100 remote to control both of my satellite boxes and the TV and everything works like a charm. My wife and I couldn't be happier. Thanks again for all of the great information on this forum!

One question tho just popped into my head. How does a magnetic field effect plasma TVs? I had my subwoofer a little to close to my old CRT for a few minute, and the effect was instant and obvious. Many of the convenient places for me to put my sub are near the 50x3, and I don't want to damage it with the mag. field. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Ron

Sanus Wall Mount VMPL...Look for user av-clearance on e-bay for one source. I bought mine from him and it is a terrific mount, hangs easily, and has tilt adjustment which helps alot for connecting the cables.

Robert

Another vote for the Sanus Wall Mount. I got mine up last Wed. and it's very nice. Highly recommended and it was much cheaper going through AV Clearance on e-bay than buying one from Best Boy.

QQ, does anyone know for sure if this set uses Panny glass and parts? thanks!

Yes it does...At least for everyone who has reported to date. That doesn't mean that EVERY MX-50x3 has panny glass and parts, but it is promising.

Has anyone who is using this monitor with their computer experienced any juddering, tearing, or other negative effects? I'm considering getting one but one of my primary uses for it will be a computer monitor.

does anyone know how this set compairs with panny TH-50PM50U? .... which to buy?

EDIT>>

mod note: no coupon talk, please. Thanks

Another vote for the Sanus Wall Mount. I got mine up last Wed. and it's very nice. Highly recommended and it was much cheaper going through AV Clearance on e-bay than buying one from Best Boy.

I need to mount this in a corner - is there a Sanus wall mount that would work in a corner?

Is this something I can install myself or should I have BB do it?

TIA!

I just set my Harmony up today for the Maxent and it works like a champ....When selecting the TV device, don't select monitor (non-tuner) as you would think, as the maxent brand doesn't show up. Select TV with Tuner brands, and the Maxent is listed. Just type in MX-50X3 for model, and it worked great. I had to delete non-existant AV3 and DVI input selections, but the volume, mute, and other input selections worked perfect.Actually, choose SAMPO. That's the pareny company of Maxent, and what it's sold as overseas. Everything works fine, the model is listed, and nothing to delete. :)

There is a similar Maxent MX-50x3 thread on Fatwallet.It's in the DEAL DISCUSSION section. And I'm the OP. :p

A bit off topic but what's a good DVD player? I'm looking for something for the downstairs TV (Mits 62725 dlp). Something that does up conversion via HDMI or component would be ideal. Cheaper the better, since I won't be using it much.

RobertR1,
Please ask that question in the DVD player forum. Asking about a DVD player for a DLP RPTV in a Maxent plasma thread. Just a bit off topic? :)

larry

Has anyone who is using this monitor with their computer experienced any juddering, tearing, or other negative effects? I'm considering getting one but one of my primary uses for it will be a computer monitor.

I have this monitor hooked up to my media PC through the VGA port and it looks awesome. I play DVDs through this PC and they look fantastic. I have a Radeon All-in-Wonder 9000 Pro, and it detected the monitor right off and adjusted the resolution to 1280x768 (I think). I switched the resolution to 1366x768 (the native resolution of the monitor) and the screen looked perfect. It's so nice to be able to read my mp3 titles in WinAmp now...something I couldn't do with my old Panasonic 27" CRT-TV. I have seen nothing strange to this point, but granted, it has only been three days :)

Hi all,

First time posting; reviewing this long thread has been extremely helpful.
I'm "this close" to purchasing this Maxent, just trying to budget it right. So here are a handful of QQ's if you all don't mind ...

1. If I'm understanding folks right, the consensus with this monitor is to hook up HDTV using component cables, and the DVD player using HDMI, right? If so:
a) At BB, they claim I need to purchase an additional cable for $95 to hook up the HDTV tuner. Is this true? Or is something I can easily get, for cheaper, online?
b) My current DVD player does not have an HDMI output & doesn't support progressive scan. Should I definitely plan on upgrading?

2. Does anyone know if Costco will be carrying this screen at some point (rather than the X2)? Call me cheap, but I'm hoping to bypass BB's EW :)

3. 1. When mounting on the wall, what height do you usually set it at? Our couch is relatively low (17in) and our current 32 in. TV stands at about the same height. If mounting the plasma on the wall, I assume I'd have to mount it higher? If so, aren't folks experiencing a strain on their necks? Or is that a reason to get a tilting bracket?
Also, where do you all store the rest of your AV equipment, on a TV stand below or a shelf by the side?
Otherwise, how do folks feel about just using the stand? Or does it take away from the viewing pleasure?
I realize these questions might sound trivial, but am curious as to how people are setting up their nice, expensive plasmas without tainting their seating space or taking away from the plasma experience :)

Thanks a whole lot!
Omar

Well, I took the plunge. I drove from MA to beautiful tax free New Hampshire today. The BB in Salem had it in stock and was willing to give me the online price (since BB online show NO ONE has it in stock).

It's only been hooked up for a few hours, but I gotta say this thing is beautiful. HD cable is getting installed on Thursday and I'm sure that will even further improve the quality. I popped in March of the Penguins on my $39 DVD player and it looked pretty nice. Now I'm in the market for a high end DVD player.

Thanks to all who posted on this thread - it has helped a huge amount!

-Mike

Oguessous:
1. Either way. I have mine using HDMI from ATSC tuner and component from DVD. Most folks say they cant tell a diff in quality betweent these two inputs. What outputs do your DVD and ATSC tuner have?

a) You can most definitely get one cheaper. Try a Wal Mart , Home Depot, or Lowes cable first. If you have a problem, then look into cable troubleshooting and/or noise sources- take the cheap cable back. On mine, the HDMI input seems to be susceptible to noise (may be coming thru ATSC tuner due to temporary low gain indoor antenna). Im using a CHEAP Radio Shack closeout HDMI cable, but only a problem if someone is rubbing the bezel on the TV or wiggling the cable. I am using the same old component cable i had before i got the Maxent - works fine. I suspect even a low-end component cable will work fine.

b) Your old DVD should look great if it has a component video out. I just continued using my old (non-progressive) DVD while shopping for a cheap progressive scan unit. It looks great on the Maxent. Caution: many people seem to complain about macroblocking using an upconverting DVD. So i plan on getting a sub-$50 progressive scan unit.

2. No answer/dont know

3. We've had our Maxent for 3 wks now. It is on its stand on top of the old entertainment center (bottom of stand is 38"off floor ), so its much higher than the old TV. No one has complained about neck strain yet. Components are in the entertainment center next to old TV (still there) - obviously im not one of those people really worried about overall appearance. Planning on a Sanus wall mount at about the same height. When i get into a movie or new episode of CSI, i dont notice the esthetics of the mount. Thats what wives are for!

Hi all,



3. 1. When mounting on the wall, what height do you usually set it at? Our couch is relatively low (17in) and our current 32 in. TV stands at about the same height. If mounting the plasma on the wall, I assume I'd have to mount it higher? If so, aren't folks experiencing a strain on their necks? Or is that a reason to get a tilting bracket?
Also, where do you all store the rest of your AV equipment, on a TV stand below or a shelf by the side?
Otherwise, how do folks feel about just using the stand? Or does it take away from the viewing pleasure?
I realize these questions might sound trivial, but am curious as to how people are setting up their nice, expensive plasmas without tainting their seating space or taking away from the plasma experience :)

Thanks a whole lot!
Omar

Big screens are still a bit new to me, but I'm sticking with my old reliable steamer trunk for a tv stand. I had an old dresser top that I sat on top of the trunk to give a larger, smoother surface.

The components are on the smaller trunk, but I may replace it with a component cabinet at some point.

My buddy is planning a system including this Maxent MX-50X3, a new entertainment center, and a universal remote.

Question 1: Does Maxent have discrete input IR codes for programing macros?

Question 2: Is anyone using Harmony or Home Theater Master remotes with the MX-50X3?

Question 3: The leading entertainment center candidate for this TV has wood doors that would cover the components. Can IR repeaters be used or should I find and RF remote solution? I heard that IR is bad with plasmas

My buddy is planning a system including this Maxent MX-50X3, a new entertainment center, and a universal remote.

Question 1: Does Maxent have discrete input IR codes for programing macros?

Question 2: Is anyone using Harmony or Home Theater Master remotes with the MX-50X3?

Question 3: The leading entertainment center candidate for this TV has wood doors that would cover the components. Can IR repeaters be used or should I find and RF remote solution? I heard that IR is bad with plasmas

1) Yes, discrete codes for power on/off and input selection.
2) Yes, I am using a Harmony, seems to be working fine.

Question 3: The leading entertainment center candidate for this TV has wood doors that would cover the components. Can IR repeaters be used or should I find and RF remote solution? I heard that IR is bad with plasmas
Look a few posts above and you'll see my comment about IR repeaters, along with a couple others. To summarize, yes it will work fine you just need to be careful of where you place the sensor.

Brian

I'm using a Xantech IR Hidden Link Expansion Kit (http://www.xantech.com/products/p_folder/p_291kit.htm) ($99 from Smarthome).

I have it on a shelf mounted to the wall directly under the Maxent.
I get excellent response from 12-15ft away with a Harmony remote.

So far I haven't notice any interference. ;)


Good luck,
Token

Somebody help me!!!!

I have had the Maxent 50x3 display for over a month now and cannot find a DVD player to go with it. We have gone through these upconverting DVD Players:

Toshiba SD-4980 - had for about 3 weeks and it takes 5 seconds to switch layers and locks up every five seconds, gives 3 seconds of video, locks up again. Picture was good but harwdare was not.

Samsung DVD-HD845 - First one had try rattle badly and black bar that would flash straight across the middle of the screen every few seconds. Picture was OK. Returned it.

LG LDA-511 Upconverting DVD Player - tried this one last night. Hooked it up and macroblocking was unbearable. In movie, The Matrix, when Neo wakes up in the beginning to his computer screen, the macroblocking in his hair is AWFUL. This continued no matter what upconverting option I choose.

All of these have been over HDMI. I am wondering who has this display and a DVD player they are happy with? I don't know what to do. I am very afraid of the macroblocking and am tired of having to return cheap units. I saw the OPPO and the Denon 2910 but these use Faroudja chips and I hear they are bad as far as the macroblocking problem goes.

Any help out there?

Somebody help me!!!!

I have had the Maxent 50x3 display for over a month now and cannot find a DVD player to go with it. We have gone through these upconverting DVD Players:

Toshiba SD-4980 - had for about 3 weeks and it takes 5 seconds to switch layers and locks up every five seconds, gives 3 seconds of video, locks up again. Picture was good but harwdare was not.

snip

Any help out there?

I've had the Tosh 4980 hooked up since early Dec with no problems like you describe. I'm using a HDMI to the Maxent and running the audio via optical to a Yamaha receiver.

Could you have gotten a bad one? or a bad cable?

TC Rider

I have a monster HDMI cable. Audio via coax to Denon receiver. This issue seems to have just started. I read on Amazon that others have had this freezing issue with this unit as well. I'm really lost at this point.

Somebody help me!!!!

I have had the Maxent 50x3 display for over a month now and cannot find a DVD player to go with it. We have gone through these upconverting DVD Players:

Toshiba SD-4980 - had for about 3 weeks and it takes 5 seconds to switch layers and locks up every five seconds, gives 3 seconds of video, locks up again. Picture was good but harwdare was not.

Samsung DVD-HD845 - First one had try rattle badly and black bar that would flash straight across the middle of the screen every few seconds. Picture was OK. Returned it.

LG LDA-511 Upconverting DVD Player - tried this one last night. Hooked it up and macroblocking was unbearable. In movie, The Matrix, when Neo wakes up in the beginning to his computer screen, the macroblocking in his hair is AWFUL. This continued no matter what upconverting option I choose.

All of these have been over HDMI. I am wondering who has this display and a DVD player they are happy with? I don't know what to do. I am very afraid of the macroblocking and am tired of having to return cheap units. I saw the OPPO and the Denon 2910 but these use Faroudja chips and I hear they are bad as far as the macroblocking problem goes.

Any help out there?


I've given up on the cheapie DVD players altogether (HDMI and 480p component). I'm currently using a Pioneer Elite DV-41A (480p over component). I tried another cheap Sony unit (sn50?) to get zoom capability for DVDs (using 480p over component), but the picture quality was sub-standard (both in zoom and non-zoom modes). I believe that 50inch screens are big enough to easily find the faults with cheap players.

EDIT - I should mention, because I've read about people complaining about this symptom before, that the cheapie players all appear very dark over component compared to the Pioneer. Some players offer additional output adjustments and it might be that they can be adjusted better with more effort. END EDIT

If the Oppo changes firmware to allow gamma corrections, I might give that a shot. Otherwise, I'll use the Pioneer until the Blu-ray MPEG-4 players and source material comes out.

Anyone out there using a Peerless PLA - articulated wall mount. Looking at using this when I get my set but they do not list an adapter plate for the 50X3 only the 50X1. Anyone know if the mount points are the same between the models ?

Ok, so tonight I've decided to try the Denon 1920 DVD player ($349). It has the Faroudja chip but I'm hoping for the best. With cheaper models (sub $200) I've either had mechanical or picture issues. I'm hoping that buy purchasing a Denon I'll get better build quality at least. We'll see about the picture quality. Keep your fingers crossed....

Ok, so tonight I've decided to try the Denon 1920 DVD player ($349). It has the Faroudja chip but I'm hoping for the best. With cheaper models (sub $200) I've either had mechanical or picture issues. I'm hoping that buy purchasing a Denon I'll get better build quality at least. We'll see about the picture quality. Keep your fingers crossed....

PM sent regarding Denon testing and macroblocking. Make sure you can take it back if you experience the same as the testing.

Good Luck! Let us know what you find out.

Pop up blocker demolished you PM so I missed it. I turned it off if you'd like to try again. I will let everyone know about the Denon hopefully tomorrow. I'm just struggling to understand all of this new technology. I don't know if the TV is scaling or processing a second time from DVD and affecting PQ or what. I am not technical but I do know that the HD signals from my SA8300 through Comcast look very good although I do see some compression artifacts on movies, etc. Even so, it looks much better than on some of these movies.

As a side note, a friend of mine came over with a DVE disk to calibrate and the Toshiba 4980 would not show the "Blacker than Black" bar. I just learned about that little specification too. Oh my, so much to learn....

Pop up blocker demolished you PM so I missed it.

It's still there in your User CP. Click on User CP and goto to messages. For future reference, if running a popup blocker, hit cancel on the second window instead of OK and it will bring it up in your current window instead of a popup.

Robert

Great, the VGA port is no longer working. Resolution/refresh rate shows in the upper right corner and then some white lines flashes but then turns black.

Called Maxent, they can have a guy out in 2 weeks to fix it.
I also have the option of exchanging it at BB.

Now, do I get it fixed? I hardly use the vga port.
Do I replace it and risk getting another one that might have dead pixels? This one has zero dead pixels... Replacing it would be painful. Repackaging and transporting back to the store. I don't know if they would ship it out to me for free or require a fee.

What would you guys do?


-armus

Great, the VGA port is no longer working. Resolution/refresh rate shows in the upper right corner and then some white lines flashes but then turns black.

If I'm understanding this correctly, you're saying that the display recognizes the VGA signal (reads signal type) and then awaits video data for displaying (black screen).

If possible, hook the VGA up directly to another monitor without changing anything and verify that the VGA is carrying video data. Be careful about moving the cable (make sure it is tightly seated on your video source). The cable could be part of the problem and moving it around could affect your testing.

If you have another VGA source, try that one with the Maxent as well. Let us know how it goes.

no luck. i tried two different computers, 1 laptop, 2 vga cords. they all work off my 17" lcd.
i guess i'm going to call in a Maxent to setup a technician to come out to fix it.

i'll let everyone know how that turns out.

-armus

Ok, so I tried the Denon 1920 last night and it was terrible as predicted by others. Pixelation across the entire screen and image flicker was easily seen. I took it back to Best Buy's Magnolia center and they hooked it up to the Maxent there. I invited them to tell me what I was doing wrong to which they had no suggestions.

In an attempt to be funny he said that I shouldn't have bought that TV. I told him I could gladly bring back my large purchase and he didn't know what to say.

Anyway, I took home two DVD players after that.....the Toshiba 4980 that I returned previously for lock-up and freeze problems and the Sony DVPNS70H. The Sony worked and it had the same picture quality as the Toshiba IMO. Just for fun we hooked up the Toshiba again and popped in the Wedding Planner just to test the picture on a brighter movie as The Matrix is very dark. Within 15 minutes the Toshiba locked up again mid-scene for no reason. This was a brand new player - I was careful not to get back the same one I returned. I believe there is a bug with this machine.

So, for compatability with the Maxent display I recommend (for now) the Sony DVPNS70H. Some people complain that the black bar at the top is wider than the one at the bottom when it's on anything other than 480p (as I did see this effect), but it doesn't bother me at all. It's a good picture and it's not lokcing up.

Perhaps the processor in this TV is helping to cause a conflict with the Faroudja chip or something. In any event, if you are looking for a DVD player to match with this TV at least you can read about my experiences before buying. Hope this helps.

FWIW, I have the Oppo (bought it on eBay from them) and am very happy with it. MINOR MB on very dark scenes (tested using the LOTR DVDs) but still looks wonderful.

I was curious if Home Theater Master had discrete codes for the Maxent 50X3 for the purpose of Macros.

Hello everyone. First-time post, but long-time lurker of this thread. I purchased an MX-50X3 two weeks ago today based on all of your advice and comments, and so far, so good, I'm really liking the set. However, I do have an issue as of this morning and I'm wondering if someone can help.

The green input display information that appears in the upper-right hand corner when switching modes (i.e. AV1, HDMI, Component 1, etc.) was appearing fine last night, but this morning it is not. I can successfully switch from one mode to another, but no information appears in green in the upper-right corner, and this is troublesome to me as I would like to know what mode I am in.

I must mention that last night I was programming a few functions to a new universal remote, and one of the things I programmed was the Input button on the Maxent remote to the new universal remote. Perhaps I wiped something out while doing this? I did try the Input button on the Maxent remote today and still no info appears. Gosh, I hope I didn't screw something up too badly? :(

Has anyone seen this behavior, and if so, any ideas on how to get it back? Thanks in advance for any help you great folks can provide.

Regards,
Keith

Hello everyone. First-time post, but long-time lurker of this thread. I purchased an MX-50X3 two weeks ago today based on all of your advice and comments, and so far, so good, I'm really liking the set. However, I do have an issue as of this morning and I'm wondering if someone can help.

The green input display information that appears in the upper-right hand corner when switching modes (i.e. AV1, HDMI, Component 1, etc.) was appearing fine last night, but this morning it is not. I can successfully switch from one mode to another, but no information appears in green in the upper-right corner, and this is troublesome to me as I would like to know what mode I am in.

I must mention that last night I was programming a few functions to a new universal remote, and one of the things I programmed was the Input button on the Maxent remote to the new universal remote. Perhaps I wiped something out while doing this? I did try the Input button on the Maxent remote today and still no info appears. Gosh, I hope I didn't screw something up too badly? :(

Has anyone seen this behavior, and if so, any ideas on how to get it back? Thanks in advance for any help you great folks can provide.

Regards,
Keith

This happened to me once before. The solution is to unplug the TV power cord from the wall, and plug it right back in. OR, turn the TV off using the switch located on the BACK of the TV, then turn it back on.

One time the buttons on my TV stopped working, and this fixed that as well. It's definitely a problem, but it's not worth taking it back right now, but I'm glad I got the 4 year warranty. In 3.5 years I'll probably report the problem, and if they can't fix it, I'll get a brand new TV. :)

This happened to me once before. The solution is to unplug the TV power cord from the wall, and plug it right back in. OR, turn the TV off using the switch located on the BACK of the TV, then turn it back on.

One time the buttons on my TV stopped working, and this fixed that as well. It's definitely a problem, but it's not worth taking it back right now, but I'm glad I got the 4 year warranty. In 3.5 years I'll probably report the problem, and if they can't fix it, I'll get a brand new TV. :)

koach, thank you so much! Boy did I just breathe a big sigh of relief. Funny you should mention not taking it back now...I had that train of thought running through my mind, but was hoping I didn't have to go there. I love this dang TV and I really didn't want to go through the hassle of boxing it up and returning it, and now I'm very happy you gave me the resolution. Yes, it might be an issue, but not one large enough to return it. I too got the 4 yr. warranty so I do sleep a little better at night :)

Thanks again!
Keith

Alright, maybe someone can help me here. I have searched and found abiguous information regarding this matter.

I have Comcast for my HD. I have the Motorola DCT6412 III DVR unit. I am connected to my MX-50X3 via Component 1. Audio is optical to reciever.

I can not choose or find an option to view the signal at 720p on my Maxent or broadcast 720 from the DCT6412. I also can not find a passthrough option on the DCT6412. I am probably missing something on the DCT6412, maybe someone knows the answer. The Maxent will only show 480i for standard def, and 1080i for high def. The Maxent makes the switch automatically when changing channels. I would like to view or enable the 720p.

My only conclusions is that Comcast (in Denver) is broadcasting ALL its HD channels in 1080i. But my gut tells me no. Thus am I missing something on the DTC6412 or is the Maxent automatically upconverting the 720p signal to 1080i? I know the Maxent can do 720p.

Does anyone have this setup and was able to enable 720p?

The main reason I want to see 720p is based on the following article:

http://alvyray.com/DigitalTV/Naming_Proposal.htm

It shows the inherant flaws of i vs. p.

Any help here would be appreciated.

Porch Song,

I don't have that same specific model of Motorola STB.. but I do have Comcast HD...

In any case, do you have a local ABC HD affiliate or ESPN-D through Comcast?

If so, check those channels and see if you are getting 1080i or 720p. ABC and ESPN are one of the few HD feeds broadcast in 720p, so If you are getting 720p, then your Motorola STB is already in passthrough mode.

To change which mode your STB upconverts/downcoverts to, I believe you have turn the cable box OFF... and then press and hold the Menu button on the front panel of the STB. You will be brough to a menu where you can change the output format (720p/1080i/480i/480p), and the 4:3 override output format.



PS-- I read that article, and while it is on the right track it doesn't give you the full picture of the 1080i vs 720 debate (which is getting to be a religious war). In any case, no matter what you set your STB output to, your Maxent is going to convert it internally to 768p (that's right, 768p not 720p) anyways. So I doubt you are going to see any increase in PQ when you take something originally broadcast in 1080i, then convert to 720p by your STB, then converted again to 768p by your plasma...

"To change which mode your STB upconverts/downcoverts to, I believe you have turn the cable box OFF... and then press and hold the Menu button on the front panel of the STB. You will be brough to a menu where you can change the output format (720p/1080i/480i/480p), and the 4:3 override output format."

--I will try this when I get home. Thank you, and I will let you know the result.

Still, if anyone else knows what do do, please advise.

Lastly, I am perfectly happy with 1080i -- it is just one of those things: It is not so much that I want 720p, it is that I have to be able to enable 720p because I should be able to. Damn ocd :) .

I will try this when I get home. Thank you, and I will let you know the result.

Still, if anyone else knows what do do, please advise.


Just checked out Motorola's site, and it confirms what I had posted for your model. You can check it up in the Motorola Document for the DCT6412 (http://broadband.motorola.com/noflash/customer_docs/user_guides/512659-001-a.pdf)



Lastly, I am perfectly happy with 1080i -- it is just one of those things: It is not so much that I want 720p, it is that I have to be able to enable 720p because I should be able to. Damn ocd :) .

I understand... just didn't want you to come back here all disappointed or thinking there was something wrong with your set when you don't notice any difference in PQ. ;)

Sohr,

Thank you, my man. Now I am itching to get home and check this out. Again, I will post results.

Paging through the manual, I am concerned there is no passthrough option, thus I have to make a choice of 1080i or 720p, hmmmmmm.

I have this monitor hooked up to my media PC through the VGA port and it looks awesome. I play DVDs through this PC and they look fantastic. I have a Radeon All-in-Wonder 9000 Pro, and it detected the monitor right off and adjusted the resolution to 1280x768 (I think). I switched the resolution to 1366x768 (the native resolution of the monitor) and the screen looked perfect. It's so nice to be able to read my mp3 titles in WinAmp now...something I couldn't do with my old Panasonic 27" CRT-TV. I have seen nothing strange to this point, but granted, it has only been three days :)

Sounds pretty good! So the only thing I'm kind of worried about is that 1366x768 isn't a lot of pixels for a 50" screen... Can you give me some kind of reference as to how large your windows icons show up? I don't see the point in a huge computer screen if the "my computer" icon is the size of my fist :)

Thanks.

Purchase Update:

Well, it's been 5 days since my Max was delivered...let me just say that I've been in heaven since Saturday! The set is truely unbelievable for the price, especially since my neighbor next door has the new 50" Panny and we've been running back and forth comparing the same feeds, and we can't tell a difference. Of course maybe if they were right next to each other, but who cares.

Anyways, I ordered last Thursday, delivered Sat. Watched HD, SD and a few DVD's so far, everything except SD looks fantastic. I'm using the Toshiba SDK850 from costco and I love it. I'm sure there are better players out there, but for the $ and since there's no consensus of a low to mid price upconverting player yet, this thing rocks! I compared a hi-end HDMI cable vs. the one that came with the player, and I can't tell a difference, so the expensive cable is going back! As for the upconversion, well, I think that's mostly a marketing ploy, since I can't see a visualy diff between 480p, 720p or 1080i?

HD is amazing, although I have yet to see any plasma or LCD or RPTV that can match the PQ of my 40" Sony XBR direct-view that I have downstairs, but hey, I already expected that, and 50" 16:9 is alot more screen than a 4:3 40", so no complaints here.

As for SD, well, like most already know, some channels look ok, others are terrible. Plus I'm still trying to get used to having 4:3 content stretched to fill the screen - another reason I love my XBR downstairs, since I can always revert to that when needed.

The only issue I've run into is trying to display the STB settings for Comcast Moto 6412, when I power off the box and hit menu, the screen flashes the B+W settings screen, but just for a second then dissappears? I tried it a few times last night with no luck, wasn't sure if I can't view it through component, but I can access it fine downstairs via component? The reason I'm trying to access the menu is to check the output setting. I'm assuming it's set to 1080i since I haven't seen 720p ever flash on the screen? Like Sohr said above, theres probably no PQ difference, but I just wanted to check it out.

Lastly, if there's anyone on the fence about getting this set like I was for more than a month, I say go for it! I did a ton of research, in-store comparisons, etc, and this set was the winner for multiple reasons. Let me know if I can be of any assistance to owners or prospective buyers.
-stan

Hi all, I am on the fence about getting this panel. I am concerned about the Heat issue? I stopped by the local BB and the set looks great but was very hot.

Also the CSR said that this was Panny older tech and not the current Gen which has the 60K Halflife, Newer DLP Chip etc. What are peoples thoughts on this?

Lastly, I think I have narrowed my choices to the Maxent, Vizio ( Costco ) or the Zenith (on sale now but Bummed I missed the rebate ). What are the thoughts on these PDPs?

Thanks

Hi all, I am on the fence about getting this panel. I am concerned about the Heat issue? I stopped by the local BB and the set looks great but was very hot.

Yep, it runs hot but as others have mentioned the heat is where its supposed to be: on the heatsinks at the top of the unit. The rest of the unit is quite cool.


Also the CSR said that this was Panny older tech and not the current Gen which has the 60K Halflife, Newer DLP Chip etc. What are peoples thoughts on this?

Noone knows definitively what gen the panasonic glass used is... but all indications are that it at least 7th Gen glass, and probably even 8th Gen (the latest). Either way, I certainly would take everything I heard from a BB CSR with a HUGE grain of salt. Most of them are well-meaning but generally uninformed, and those that are informed certainly aren't going to push the Maxent (which is their loss leader) if they can sell you something else with a larger margin.

Also, if a CSR told you that the Current Gen Panny has a "Newer DLP chip" then I wouldn't listen to them PERIOD as they obviously have no clue what they are talking about.



Lastly, I think I have narrowed my choices to the Maxent, Vizio ( Costco ) or the Zenith (on sale now but Bummed I missed the rebate ). What are the thoughts on these PDPs?

Thanks

I own the Maxent (have had it for three weeks but haven't unboxed it yet). I did consider the Vizio-- it has the LG glass which supposedly has a 10,000:1 CR and the Fajouda descaler. Of course, the actual real-world CR is much lower than is advertised, and the benefits of the Fajouda descaler are subject to debate. When you add in the fact the Vizio uses single-scan technology (as opposed to the dual-scan of the Maxent), and has had fan noise issues, it made my decision to go to the Maxent a little easier.

However, the Vizio thread is full of people who have bought the Vizio and have been quite happy with it.

Lastly, I think I have narrowed my choices to the Maxent, Vizio ( Costco ) or the Zenith (on sale now but Bummed I missed the rebate ). What are the thoughts on these PDPs?

Thanks

I had the maxent for three weeks and returned it for the Zenith. I was able to get the Zenith at 100 more than the maxent sale price. However regardless of the price, I would have returned the Maxent anyway. My main complain is the unsmooth color shade (color banding) which was especially bad in dark scene. I might have got a bad Maxent unit. In comparison, the Zenith is much better in PQ, feature, and overal menu handling. On a minor point, the speaker in Zenith also sound better. It has a more mature product feeling.

IMHO, the Zenith is a decent set, but I was able to see it side by side with a Max @ two BB's and both times the Max looked better. Zenith has it's own issues as well, that being said, whatever you decide on I'm sure you'll like it very much, and unless you get a bad set out of the box, you won't regret any of the 3.

Purchase Update:

The only issue I've run into is trying to display the STB settings for Comcast Moto 6412, when I power off the box and hit menu, the screen flashes the B+W settings screen, but just for a second then dissappears? I tried it a few times last night with no luck, wasn't sure if I can't view it through component, but I can access it fine downstairs via component? The reason I'm trying to access the menu is to check the output setting. I'm assuming it's set to 1080i since I haven't seen 720p ever flash on the screen? Like Sohr said above, theres probably no PQ difference, but I just wanted to check it out.

-stan

I have the 6412 and also get the flickering then off. Keep at it. I hold it down (2-3 seconds) after a flicker--which still does not work--then do a quick menu press (1 second) and I get the screen.

Now, there is NO passthrough option, thus you have to decide either 720p or 1080i. Honestly, I can tell no difference in pq, but did notice that when a commerical in 480 comes up, I get letterbox AND sidebars--in other words an get an image shrunken on all sides. I am back to 1080i as I really like it and do not get the top bars.

Last thing though. I do have the option on standard def (480i image) to force it to 480p display. the question I have is: Should I do this? or let the sd feed display as 480i. The STB will let me overide the sd image to 480p. Is this wise?

I hope this is not too far off topic as I am talking about feeds to the Maxent and how the Maxent displays and presents them.

thanks porch! I'll try that out tonight!

I'm a noobie to plasma and this site, so please forgive the simplicity of the following question (I've cruised the thread):

I currently have DirectTV and a 5.1 system. I don't intend to purchase HD programing or an HD receiver/dish for some time. I do enjoy watching DVDs on a regular basis. Since I'll predominately be engaged in "normal" TV, am I going to be disappointed in a plasma's performance in general?

I'm a noobie to plasma and this site, so please forgive the simplicity of the following question:

I currently have DirectTV and a 5.1 system. I don't intend to purchase HD programing or an HD receiver/dish for some time. I do enjoy watching DVDs on a regular basis. Since I'll predominately be engaged in "normal" TV, am I going to be disappointed in a plasma's performance in general?

It's not going to be the "plasma's performance" you'll be disappointed in, it will be the poor signal quality that you are receiving. Your SD signal is 480i (interlaced). If you're going to be watching DVDs, I would not get anything less than a progressive DVD player (480p) or you will just end up with a large screen TV with poor quality signals altogether.

The Maxent 50X3 is an astonishing plasma with regard to picture quality. Most people are challenged to find a video signal input with quality to match what the Maxent can do. This is the main reason for using computer video sources (some 1080i and 1080p material can be downloaded from the internet).

With all that being said, I use 480p DVD player over component input and an over-the-air (OTA) HD tuner set at 720p for local broadcasts (I receive about 10 free HD channels like ABC, NBC, CBS, FOX, PBS, etc.). You can determine the available OTA signals by going to www.antennaweb.org and entering your zip code.

You can also get an HD card for your computer and receive localized HD broadcasts for free over your cable system (local channels are required to be sent unscrambled).

Basically, if you buy it, you'll definitely want an HD source to truly enjoy what the Maxent can do. But you don't have to pay monthly just to have an HD source.

Another alternative is to consider getting an EDTV (enhanced definition (480p) rather than high definition (1080i/1080p)). It is more closely matched to the SD (standard defintion) TV signals that you're currently receiving and will naturally look somewhat "better" for this reason (less required extrapolation of the existing video signal).

Good luck with your decision.

Also the CSR said that this was Panny older tech and not the current Gen which has the 60K Halflife, Newer DLP Chip etc. What are peoples thoughts on this?
Thanks

Earlier in the post it was discussed that the only difference in the glass model number was was a "D vs. an "F". The manufacture date on my Maxent panel(internal label on the panasonic panel) is May 2005....would that be a 7th gen manufacturing date? Seems a little new to me but I could be wrong.

Newer DLP chip....lol...he actually said that?

...Most people are challenged to find a video signal input with quality to match what the Maxent can do..Discovery HD. :D

...(some 1080i and 1080p material can be downloaded from the internet)Actually, I download HDTV stuff all the time. Compressed XviD, less than 200mb in size, and play it on my modded Xbox. The screen size of the pic is 624x352 for the current show I'm watching, and the Xbox blows it up to full-screen. I'll take some pics tonight and show you - it's hard to tell it's NOT HD. :cool:

. Compressed XviD, less than 200mb in size, and play it on my modded Xbox. The screen size of the pic is 624x352 for the current show I'm watching, and the Xbox blows it up to full-screen. I'll take some pics tonight and show you - it's hard to tell it's NOT HD. :cool:


Really? 624x352 isn't even up to EDTV standards... and you have a hard time noticing it's not HD??

Thanks for the input. I was saying the same thing to myself when he made he made the DLP comment. I also think he wanted to push a higher margin TV. I didn't give him to much crap cause I was smoozing for a better deal, which he would not budge on.

Overall I agree that the 3 do look great. If the price and availabliy of the Panny were better I might be swayed in that dir.

I heard that BB has a 10% coupon for this weekend. Anyone know where I can get one? Do you think they would give the Sale price with the coupon?

Thanks again. Long time reader and I do value your opinions.

You can also get an HD card for your computer and receive localized HD broadcasts for free over your cable system (local channels are required to be sent unscrambled).

Good luck with your decision.


That's very interesting information that I was unaware of. Where can I go for more on this? This is something that I would like to discover.


I am very happy with my recently purchased mx-50x3. I do wish it had a clock display and I wish they offered them in black.

Hi all, I've been watching this and the Maxent FatWallet forum for some time now. I'm still looking to buy either the Maxent or the Panny, depending on how much I can deal on the Panny. Thanks to all for the wealth of information you have all provided.

As for my question, hfelsh just posted something very similar to what I was going to ask:

Actually, I download HDTV stuff all the time. Compressed XviD, less than 200mb in size, and play it on my modded Xbox. The screen size of the pic is 624x352 for the current show I'm watching, and the Xbox blows it up to full-screen. I'll take some pics tonight and show you - it's hard to tell it's NOT HD. :cool:

I have a modded XBOX myself running XBMC and I absolutely love it for my current setup, which is a 6 year old Toshiba 32" CRT. As someone else had asked, hfelsh, how does the Maxent handle the display of XBMC? It sounds like we download the same format of programs (624x352) and I'd love to hear how they compare to something on DVD. Is the text on the menus very sharp as well?

I don't want to change the topic here, I would just love to hear more about the display of the XviDs on the Maxent. Thanks!

so what is the difference with the MOTO 6412 box in terms of settings? Should I go with 480i, p, or strechted for 4:3? I'm assuming 480p, but I've tried all 3 and the all look that same, although in my head 480i looks the best?
Any thoughts?
-stan

so what is the difference with the MOTO 6412 box in terms of settings? Should I go with 480i, p, or strechted for 4:3? I'm assuming 480p, but I've tried all 3 and the all look that same, although in my head 480i looks the best?
Any thoughts?
-stan

It all comes down to which device has the better de-interlacer.
My opinion is that you are best off outputting at 480i and let the TV do the deinterlacing for you.

When I hook my Maxent up, I'll probably output SD at 480i, and have it stretch 4:3 content so I won't have to worry too much about burn-in when my wife watches hours of the Discovery Health channel...

so what is the difference with the MOTO 6412 box in terms of settings? Should I go with 480i, p, or strechted for 4:3? I'm assuming 480p, but I've tried all 3 and the all look that same, although in my head 480i looks the best?
Any thoughts?
-stan

Mike,

I have the 6412 on these settings:

16:9
I fluctuate between 1080i and 720p as for feed.
4:3 override is 480i as the signal is braodcast as such and the 480p looked sorta blurry.

I have not decided if I like the 1080i signal over 720p.

thanks guys. I've got it set to 1080i as I figure to let the tv scale down to 766. Glad I'm not the only one that is thinking 480i for SD, and yes, I have the Max stretching the SD.

As for the color setting recommended earlier in the thread for a setting of 22, is this for only the break in period, or for all the time? I was playing with the color last night, and it seems that 22 makes for a very pale skin tone. I bumped it up to about 45-50, and it made a huge difference. I've also got my contrast pretty high now, about 80, with brightness somewhere in the 50-60 range. I'm going to re-calibrate this weekend with AVIA and see if my eyes are even close.

thanks guys. I've got it set to 1080i as I figure to let the tv scale down to 766. Glad I'm not the only one that is thinking 480i for SD, and yes, I have the Max stretching the SD.

As for the color setting recommended earlier in the thread for a setting of 22, is this for only the break in period, or for all the time? I was playing with the color last night, and it seems that 22 makes for a very pale skin tone. I bumped it up to about 45-50, and it made a huge difference. I've also got my contrast pretty high now, about 80, with brightness somewhere in the 50-60 range. I'm going to re-calibrate this weekend with AVIA and see if my eyes are even close.

now that mine is broken in, i have the contrast and brightness at 60, and the color at 30. this looks good to my eye and seems to match what the AVIA disc calibration does.

I was playing with the color last night, and it seems that 22 makes for a very pale skin tone. I bumped it up to about 45-50, and it made a huge difference.

You should read the thread about 'steaming rat' and adjusting the picture. I too started out with the color set around 35 or so, thinking that 22 was too pale. But once I read that thread, I went back and sure enough, the skin tones while vibrant were just unnatural. A color setting that high makes everything pop, but when you look out your window, grass is not that green, people are not that red, and the sky isn't that blue. When I set the color back down around 22, I found that I felt like I was looking through a window vs looking into a TV. YMMV

Robert

robert: that does make sense, although it seems that while set to 22, everything we watch looks to be lit by harsh flourescent lighting rather than natural lighting, or maybe it's just the inherent thought of paleness?
I did notice myself creeping up on that setting, as at first i set it for 32, then went back 15 minutes later when watching ER and bumped it up again. But you're right, things went from perceived pale to eye popping vibrant. And this is a matter of personal preference...ah alas more playing around to do.

koach: I too thought 30(32) looked pretty good and that's what I'll start AVIA on.

thanks again guy...off to rent a few movies for the weekend!

Hello Everyone. Thank you all for this thread. The info here is what convinced me to buy the 50x3. I just received it today and HD looks fantastic. SD is not too great, but I've read here that I should try svideo, so Im going to go get that today and give it a try.

Does anyone have Time Warner and a Scientific Atlanta with this set? There are no remote codes for Maxent. Did anyone else have this problem and was able to track down the codes? My wife and I have been trying to find them, but haven't had any luck.

I will post again after trying out the svideo, in case anyone is interested.

Thanks again.

Sorry, one more question:

I have read that for the break-in period, I should set the contrast and brightness to less than 50 for the first 100 hours and also not play video games.

I recently got the xbox 360 and dont know if I can wait 100 hours before I try out the games on the new 50inch. Is the only issue static images with video games?

Sorry about the simple questions, I am a plasma newbie.

Thanks

Does anyone have Time Warner and a Scientific Atlanta with this set? There are no remote codes for Maxent. Did anyone else have this problem and was able to track down the codes? My wife and I have been trying to find them, but haven't had any luck.

I will post again after trying out the svideo, in case anyone is interested.

Thanks again.

I have the Scientfic Atlanta 8300 DVR from Time Warner, and there are no remote codes for it. I just recently bought a universal learning remote from best buy for $40, and taught it all the functions for my DVR, receiver, TV, and dvd player. it works well.

Sorry, one more question:

I have read that for the break-in period, I should set the contrast and brightness to less than 50 for the first 100 hours and also not play video games.

I recently got the xbox 360 and dont know if I can wait 100 hours before I try out the games on the new 50inch. Is the only issue static images with video games?

Sorry about the simple questions, I am a plasma newbie.

Thanks


i would definitely wait 100 hours before playing any video games

I have read that for the break-in period, I should set the contrast and brightness to less than 50 for the first 100 hours and also not play video games.

I recently got the xbox 360 and dont know if I can wait 100 hours before I try out the games on the new 50inch. Is the only issue static images with video games?

My understanding is that you should not play video games for extended periods where you have more or less static areas on the screen (like HUDs). Most folks have no problems with burnin of static images. If you're a bit careful conventional wisdom says you won't have a problem. I've had the XBOX running various games for hours at a time with no problems that I can see.

I've had the XBOX running various games for hours at a time with no problems that I can see.

I did this wthin the first 100 hours and saw no problems, was I just lucky?

I have the Scientfic Atlanta 8300 DVR from Time Warner, and there are no remote codes for it. I just recently bought a universal learning remote from best buy for $40, and taught it all the functions for my DVR, receiver, TV, and dvd player. it works well.


Thanks Koach. Did your iniversal also work with on demand?

My understanding is that you should not play video games for extended periods where you have more or less static areas on the screen (like HUDs). Most folks have no problems with burnin of static images. If you're a bit careful conventional wisdom says you won't have a problem. I've had the XBOX running various games for hours at a time with no problems that I can see.


When you say not play video games, you mean just during the break in period right?

When you say not play video games, you mean just during the break in period right?

Just use a little common sense....Don't leave a static menu up for hours at a time and you'll be fine...Same with Network Logos or watching all 4:3 content with black bars. Plus the Maxent has an Image shift feature to prevent burn in...Turn it on. I've been watching gobs of everything, playing x-box for hours with absolutely no problems.

Robert

Ok...

After three weeks, I finally unboxed my set and hooked it up.

For comparision purposes, I placed it next to my 1-year old 42" Sony LCD RPTV-- a comparision of which I might save for another post.

But I'm trying to enjoy the football game now, and one of my current annoyances is not being able to use my Comcast cable box remote. Maxent is listed on the remote guide, and none of the other codes I've tried has worked.

So, my question to those who have the Maxent and a Comcast Motorola STB: what remote code did you use to get your remote to work with the Maxent? Or are you using a separte, universal remote? I'd like to be able to change channels, and adjust volume on the same remote...

Thanks!

Ok...

After three weeks, I finally unboxed my set and hooked it up.

For comparision purposes, I placed it next to my 1-year old 42" Sony LCD RPTV-- a comparision of which I might save for another post.

But I'm trying to enjoy the football game now, and one of my current annoyances is not being able to use my Comcast cable box remote. Maxent is listed on the remote guide, and none of the other codes I've tried has worked.

So, my question to those who have the Maxent and a Comcast Motorola STB: what remote code did you use to get your remote to work with the Maxent? Or are you using a separte, universal remote? I'd like to be able to change channels, and adjust volume on the same remote...

Thanks!


I have the same problem with Time Warner and my Scientific Atlanta box. Koach said he was able to get around this with a learning universal remote. I tried to pick one up at Radio Shack, but it didnt work.

Koach, which remote did you get?

Thanks

Thanks Koach. Did your iniversal also work with on demand?


the universal came with a code that seems to do every feature. if i come across a function that doesn't work, i'll use the learn mode to teach it

I have the same problem with http://216.66.12.250/images/buttons/quickedit_icon.gif
Quick EditTime Warner and my Scientific Atlanta box. Koach said he was able to get around this with a learning universal remote. I tried to pick one up at Radio Shack, but it didnt work.

Koach, which remote did you get?

Thanks

i's a "one for all". i got it at best buy for $40. any universal remote with learning capabilities will work

the universal came with a code that seems to do every feature. if i come across a function that doesn't work, i'll use the learn mode to teach it


Could you post the manufacturer and model?

Thanks

Ok...

After three weeks, I finally unboxed my set and hooked it up.


geez, talk about self control!

One For All 8-Device Universal Learning Remote
Model: URC 8910

Ok, can anyone help me make this decision for tomm.

I bought this 50" Akai Plasma from Sams Club for around $300 less than the Maxent, which i was originally going to buy.

Now after a week with this plasma I noticed that the one set of component inputs doesnt work, i get a jumbled picture and ive tried every different scenerio to fix it. So i am returning it tomm to sams and probably going to buy this Maxent... The Akai i own has a DVI input but no HDMI

The specs are pretty good thats why i bought it,
can anyone tell me how it compares by looking at the specs i will post?

Akai PDP-5016H
50" / 16:9 Display Size
1366 x 768 Disp[ay Resolution
0.81mm x 0.81mm pixel pitch
1000cd/m2 Brightness (Peak)
Contrast Ratio (Dark Room) 4000 : 1
View Angle Hor. And Vert. R160 degrees
16.77M Colour Deeps
VGA,SVGA, XGA (Auto Convert to XGA) Supporting PC Resolution
480p, 720p, 1080i HDTV Compatible
Progressive Scanning
Film Model Pull Down Conversion
"GAMMA" Correction
Color Temperature Control
2D Comb Filter
Wide Mode Zoom (Full Screen 16 :9), Normal (4 : 3), Panorama, TV Mode & Letter Box
PAL / SECAM / NTSC Av Input Colour System
Enhance Mode (Real Dual Channel)/ Dual WindowPIP ; POP
Audio Section
Audio Output Power (Internal 10% THD)5W x 2
Audio Output Power (External 10% THD) 10W x 2 (8 ohm)
Sound Effect BBE
Tone Control
Input Terminals - Analog-RGB Input (D-Sub 15 Pin Type) x 1
DVI Connector (Digital-TMDS Input) x 1
D-Sub 9 Pin (RS-232 Input) x 1
Antenna Input (DIN Type) x 1
S-Video Input x 1
CVBS Input (RCA Type) x 1
Y / Pb / Pr x 1
Y / Cb / Cr x 1



The problem is I cant see a display when its hooked up with the component Y/Cb/Cr only with the Y/Pb/Pr

So I have to unplug the regular component to switch to my DVD player
Is this set worth exchanging or should i get a refund and buy the Maxent??

Thanks sooooo much!! No one has been able to help me yet....

Quote:
Originally Posted by sohr
Ok...

After three weeks, I finally unboxed my set and hooked it up.




geez, talk about self control!

geez, talk about self control!



Seriously. I got mine delivered this morning and I was going to wait until I received the stand until later this week, but after looking at the box in my living room, I lasted about 3 minutes before I took it out.

[QUOTE=rosariom0]I have the same problem with Time Warner and my Scientific Atlanta box. Koach said he was able to get around this with a learning universal remote. I tried to pick one up at Radio Shack, but it didnt work. [QUOTE]

Does your universal remote have codes for Sampo TVs/monitors? Someone earlier in this thread suggested selecting Sampo when with a Harmony remote, and it worked for me.

Ed Lee

jeffdom,

If your second component video is not working then you are completely justifed in exhanging it for a new set or buy another set.

I bought the Maxent and had no reason to regret it or to exchange it for another brand. My set has Panasonic glass and electronics with the M logo on the printed circuit board.

;)

Jeffdom...

I would definately return the Akai.

The Akai has decent specs... but we all know that most specs quoted by the manufacturer are pretty worthless as they use whatever standard to measure that makes their equipment seem best.

The Akai hasn't had too many good reviews... here's one right here:
http://www.*******************.com/plasmatvreviews/akai_plasma_review.html

For a few extra hundred dollars, I would get a Maxent, a Vizio or a Zenith instead...

[QUOTE=rosariom0]I have the same problem with Time Warner and my Scientific Atlanta box. Koach said he was able to get around this with a learning universal remote. I tried to pick one up at Radio Shack, but it didnt work. [QUOTE]

Does your universal remote have codes for Sampo TVs/monitors? Someone earlier in this thread suggested selecting Sampo when with a Harmony remote, and it worked for me.

Ed Lee

I tried the Sampo on both my cable remote and the Radio Shack I bought, no good. Im going out to BB today to buy a learning remote. I will post my results.

Thanks