I have noticed odd behavior during rainfall too. Note a few posts back I posted my signal readings during a light rain storm. Mostly 80's and 90's. During this time, the MPEG4 stations were beginning to break up. I do remember several posts saying Ka/Ku was more susceptible to rain, but cmon.

As I stated before, the HD LIL quality is poor. Is it better than the SD equivalent, yes, but its far from the quality of the other channels in the HD package (this is the PQ quality I expected). Even Lilo and Stitch last night on ABC was pitiful (background noise everywhere). Now it obviously isnt a capacity issue now, and still theres tons of compression artifacts/macroblocking. Is this the sign of their future.

By the way, not to be entirely negative, but I do give D* credit with their other HD channels. Ive noticed, (just my opinion and I might be wrong) but they've gotten better (PQ wise) and I havent noticed a bad lip sync issue in months.

I had my dish moved about a month ago (old location was beginning to conflict a bit with some distant trees for 4-5 specific channels).

Now - all 101 and 119 sat readings on my H20-600 are 80 - 95. By the way, this unit has never run hot since I got it last November - in fact, it runs cooler than my upconverting DVD player.

Last week, we had a torrential rainfall on both Fri & Sat in this area for about 6 hours each day - except for one 2 minute period when horrendous lighting also showed up, we had NO dropouts whatsoever, MPEG4 stations or otherwise. I has similar experieinces with rainfade even at the old location. It had become quite clear that the dish pointing is critical (for all the sat readings you should pull in). If you get solid readings in good weather, chances are you'll have nominal or no problems in rainy conditions.

Just got my H20 (its a new -100) and my AT9 dish installed here in Ohio over the weekend.

Everything is running fine and the picture quality on HDNET and ESPNHD isn't bad at all.

The d* locals in the Cincy market won't be on for another few months. However, I'm getting my locals via antenna in the attic and the H20 actually is pulling in more stations then my old Sony HD300 believe it or not.

Question: When the Cincy D* locals are live, how will the H20 handle having both OTA and D* locals in HDTV? Will the D* HD locals be numbered/channeled different or are they going to "overwrite" my OTA local HD channels to say? Just wondering, and hoping I'll have a choice of both to choose from as the OTA quality should be better.

Good OTA will always be better than D* or cable.

When D* adds your locals on MPEG4 sat, they will be added to your channel lineup along with your existing local D* SD & OTA HD channels. Channel numbering and channel order varies from city to city.

Question: When the Cincy D* locals are live, how will the H20 handle having both OTA and D* locals in HDTV? Will the D* HD locals be numbered/channeled different or are they going to "overwrite" my OTA local HD channels to say? Just wondering, and hoping I'll have a choice of both to choose from as the OTA quality should be better.
The way they will be displayed is (using Denver for the example)
9 DN9 is the D* SD feed
9 KUSA is the D* HD feed
9-1 KUSADT is the OTA feed

The way they will be displayed is (using Denver for the example)
9 DN9 is the D* SD feed
9 KUSA is the D* HD feed
9-1 KUSADT is the OTA feedAre you sure? :)

My channels here in Sarasota (Tampa Region) have:

(NBC) 8 = HD
(NBC) 8 = SD
(CBS) 10 = HD
(CBS) 10 = SD
(FOX) 13 =HD
(FOX) 13 =SD
(ABC) 28 = HD
(ABC) 28 = SD

The HD channels are listed first...

And, when I only input "8" to change the channels instead of using the guide, then the H20 automatically changes the channel to the first channel 8 --- the HD channel. I don't have OTA but I'm guessing that they would display as 8-1 (etc) after each corresponding channel above?

Seems weird that D* would do it differently in different locales... Or maybe not? :D

perhaps your dish needs alignment for the MPEG4 sat(s).
Really? I suspect that you are right!

Just checked signal strengths and all were upper 70's except for the 99 sat. It reads out at 67 to 68.

Think I should call D* ???

Ugh... I hate to do that --- they'll probably break it. :)

Maybe I should climb up and try it by eyeballing? :D

So, you think that getting 67 instead of 77 would cause my problems with excessive rainfade?

Are you sure? :)

My channels here in Sarasota (Tampa Region) have:

(NBC) 8 = HD
(NBC) 8 = SD
(CBS) 10 = HD
(CBS) 10 = SD
(FOX) 13 =HD
(FOX) 13 =SD
(ABC) 28 = HD
(ABC) 28 = SD

The HD channels are listed first...

And, when I only input "8" to change the channels instead of using the guide, then the H20 automatically changes the channel to the first channel 8 --- the HD channel. I don't have OTA but I'm guessing that they would display as 8-1 (etc) after each corresponding channel above?

Seems weird that D* would do it differently in different locales... Or maybe not? :D

Mine are displayed the same as longrider described his.

I see listings like this in Chicago:

2 CH2 is the D* SD feed
2 WBBM is the D* HD feed
2-1 WBBMDT is the OTA feed

Mine show HD first and the station's call letters. Then SD feed. Last OTA feed. So when you type 07, you get the HD feed.

WSVN (D* HD)
MI7 (D*SD)
7-1 (OTA)

Mine are displayed the same as longrider described his.

I see listings like this in Chicago:

2 CH2 is the D* SD feed
2 WBBM is the D* HD feed
2-1 WBBMDT is the OTA feed

So, if you are watching say, channel 588 :D and you punch in "2" does it take you to the D* local HD feed, or the SD feed?

So, if you are watching say, channel 588 :D and you punch in "2" does it take you to the D* local HD feed, or the SD feed?

The D* local HD feed. The channel down button gets me to the D* SD feed and channel up gets me to the OTA channel.

Really? I suspect that you are right!

Just checked signal strengths and all were upper 70's except for the 99 sat. It reads out at 67 to 68.

Think I should call D* ???

Ugh... I hate to do that --- they'll probably break it. :)

Maybe I should climb up and try it by eyeballing? :D

So, you think that getting 67 instead of 77 would cause my problems with excessive rainfade?

Yes, the lower the number the lower resistance to rain fade.

However with the amount of rain and an overcast sky this weekend, not to mention the fact that there were 58mph winds in your area yesterday, its possible the dish might not have been secured the way it should have been and lost alignment. However, I would expect all your signals to be off if this was the case.

You did have signals over 90 on the 2 103W birds. Take a look at them when the sky is clear today and see what the signal level is. Right now I have a 92 on T21 and 97 on T25 - still nothing on 99W - as the sample is only you and I and no one else from the market will respond, its impossible to know if we have an alignment issue with 99W.

I have a client that wants to use multiple rf remotes with one H20 receiver?They share it in several locations. We used to accomplish that easily with the old Sony and RCA rf units. Simply provide the proper code?
I am not on site,it is somewhat distant from me,but they are not having any luck. One remote works fine,but getting the additional units functional seems to be difficult.
Anyone have a clue or a possible source of instruction for this set up? Thanks for any insight. Dallas

Are you sure? :)

My channels here in Sarasota (Tampa Region) have:

(NBC) 8 = HD
(NBC) 8 = SD
(CBS) 10 = HD
(CBS) 10 = SD
(FOX) 13 =HD
(FOX) 13 =SD
(ABC) 28 = HD
(ABC) 28 = SD

The HD channels are listed first...

And, when I only input "8" to change the channels instead of using the guide, then the H20 automatically changes the channel to the first channel 8 --- the HD channel. I don't have OTA but I'm guessing that they would display as 8-1 (etc) after each corresponding channel above?

Seems weird that D* would do it differently in different locales... Or maybe not? :D

When in doubt....go knock on the door a mile down the road that has an AT9 :D

I couldnt take it anymore. Went down the road and left a note with details of how to get signal strength and what I was looking for. They called me back an hour ago.

First thing I know is my AT9 is not aligned properly. They do have more transponders showing than I do - even though I am am seeing the 2 key ka transponders for the area with more signal than they have - go figure.

Second thing I know is that even with the rain storm that just passed through an hour ago, even though the sky is clear now, write off the local channels in Ka during the summer months and rainstorms. He couldnt get them and was complaining loudly about it.

I have a client that wants to use multiple rf remotes with one H20 receiver?They share it in several locations. We used to accomplish that easily with the old Sony and RCA rf units. Simply provide the proper code?
I am not on site,it is somewhat distant from me,but they are not having any luck. One remote works fine,but getting the additional units functional seems to be difficult.
Anyone have a clue or a possible source of instruction for this set up? Thanks for any insight. Dallas

Yes, this can be done. I have 3 remotes controlling one of my H20 units (1 remote on each level of my house). There is a procedure that you must follow somewhere early in this thread to "mate" the other remotes to the H20. Unfortunately, I don't recall the process nor can I point you exactly to the page or posting but it is described well somewhere in this thread. Do a search on H20 remote or RC-24 remote. Note that the other model of remotes will not work nor can you use one RF remote and one IR remote on the same H20 at the same time. All of the remotes you want to use must be RF if one of the remotes will not have line of site. My previous Toshiba boxes had both RF and IR enabled at the same time but not the H20's.

Jeff Burleson

Yes, this can be done. I have 3 remotes controlling one of my H20 units (1 remote on each level of my house). There is a procedure that you must follow somewhere early in this thread to "mate" the other remotes to the H20. Unfortunately, I don't recall the process nor can I point you exactly to the page or posting but it is described well somewhere in this thread. Do a search on H20 remote or RC-24 remote. Note that the other model of remotes will not work nor can you use one RF remote and one IR remote on the same H20 at the same time. All of the remotes you want to use must be RF if one of the remotes will not have line of site. My previous Toshiba boxes had both RF and IR enabled at the same time but not the H20's.

Jeff Burleson
Thanks Jeff! I found some information from an earlier post. I am copying it here .




My second remote arrived today so I programmed it for one of my receivers. It does work but it is a little tricky. Being male, I didn't bother to read the directions but got it working after several attempts.
The important elements are to reset the receiver and original remote to IR, then go to the RF setup and program both remotes while the instructions are on the screen. However, don't hit the select button for the second time (done) until you have programmed both remotes. I got into a situation where neither remote would work so I reset them and everything was back to IR mode. Third attempt worked like a charm.
Good luck.

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Trying to do something nice for the person down the road with a working AT9/H20 that I could confirm what transponders I should be seeing......their Caller ID is not working. I can assume from reading this thread that they have a 600 model. The last reference to this is made 2 1/2 months ago. I know there was an update for the 600 in May. Did the Caller ID get fixed on anyone's 600 or is it still an open issue?

I do find it interesting that I would put them in the normal category (and not an early adopter) yet one of the first things out of their mouth when I asked to check their satellite signal strength was "this is the worst unit Directv has ever made".

Things that make you go hmmmmmmm.

Did the Caller ID get fixed on anyone's 600 or is it still an open issue?


No the caller ID is not fixed in the 600s. I have had 3 100s and 3 600s. CID worked in the 100s and not the 600s, including my current 600 that arrived 2 weeks ago. But the PQ, OTA RF sensitivity, and rain fade properties are the best of any HD box I have EVER owned in the last 10 years. AND I haven't paid for a box in 6 years.

But the PQ, OTA RF sensitivity, and rain fade properties are the best of any HD box I have EVER owned in the last 10 years.
Ditto. Also had just one H20-600 installed in November - no problems and no overheating whatsoever. Best unit ever.

Trying to do something nice for the person down the road with a working AT9/H20 that I could confirm what transponders I should be seeing......their Caller ID is not working. I can assume from reading this thread that they have a 600 model. The last reference to this is made 2 1/2 months ago. I know there was an update for the 600 in May. Did the Caller ID get fixed on anyone's 600 or is it still an open issue?

I do find it interesting that I would put them in the normal category (and not an early adopter) yet one of the first things out of their mouth when I asked to check their satellite signal strength was "this is the worst unit Directv has ever made".

Things that make you go hmmmmmmm.What a novel concept: Helping One's Neighbors. :cool:

You can easily determine which receiver is which by looking at either of two labels on them. One label is next to the access card slot on the front, and the other label is on the rear panel of the receiver. The label should have MFR:100 or MFR: 600 somewhere on it. The -100 model also has blue LEDs. As I remember the -600 had a different color.

The caller ID on my original receiver (H20-600) didn't work either and the receiver itself was defective. The replacement (model H20-100) that D* sent to me works much better, including functional caller ID. I haven't had ANY problems as far as I can tell. Other than the fact that it isn't a DVR --- I'm quite happy with it. If anyone at D* is reading this --- please note that I am still anxiously awaiting that Mpeg4 HD-DVR! :D

Since I got my -100 model, I've seen numerous posts here in the forum that refurbished -600 receivers are also improved. Some people even report that the -600 receivers that they first received work fine?

I would suggest that if you want to be really helpful to your neighbors --- convince them to get their old -600 replaced. :) It's a fairly simple (and free) process and they will thank you...

How do you get a -600 replaced with a -100? D* still says they can't promise a _100. (I recently received a -600 as part of their 'drop-ship' replacement for an old MPEG-2 unit. that I own Four different CSRs can't even agree if it is owned or leased or if there is a new two year commitment, but they all agree that I can't expect a -100, if I return it.)

Did the Caller ID get fixed on anyone's 600 or is it still an open issue?

From reading this thread, I must have the ONLY 600 (installed on 1-31-06) that has a working Caller ID. Never had a problem since Day 1. :confused:

I guess I should consider myself lucky.

How do you get a -600 replaced with a -100? D* still says they can't promise a _100. (I recently received a -600 as part of their 'drop-ship' replacement for an old MPEG-2 unit. that I own Four different CSRs can't even agree if it is owned or leased or if there is a new two year commitment, but they all agree that I can't expect a -100, if I return it.)

Trial and error. Submit for a replacement. If the new one is the wrong type, call back, report that it is "too hot to touch" and "locking up". Nothing else, elaborate at your own risk. Specifically request and new one and decline their attempts to troubleshoot. If the CS rep does not cooperate, hang up and call back. Eventually you will get what you want.

From reading this thread, I must have the ONLY 600 (installed on 1-31-06) that has a working Caller ID. Never had a problem since Day 1. :confused:

It's hard to say exactly what the problem is. I think it is a timing and/or a level issue with the caller ID modem tones coming from a given Central Office. The modem tone detector in the 600s does not like what it hears over my Verizon FIOS service. It always detects the call (i.e. ring tone). However, once in every 50 calls or so, it will correctly detect the caller ID. The other 49 calls it fails to decode.

The 100 works every time on the same line and phone jack.

It's hard to say exactly what the problem is. I think it is a timing and/or a level issue with the caller ID modem tones coming from a given Central Office. The modem tone detector in the 600s does not like what it hears over my Verizon FIOS service. It always detects the call (i.e. ring tone). However, once in every 50 calls or so, it will correctly detect the caller ID. The other 49 calls it fails to decode.

The 100 works every time on the same line and phone jack.

I have both Verizon FIOS and the H20-600 and the Caller ID works fine. This unit has been problem-free.

How do you get a -600 replaced with a -100? D* still says they can't promise a _100. (I recently received a -600 as part of their 'drop-ship' replacement for an old MPEG-2 unit. that I own Four different CSRs can't even agree if it is owned or leased or if there is a new two year commitment, but they all agree that I can't expect a -100, if I return it.)Recently? How recent? If you acquired your D* receiver after 2/28/2006 then you are leasing it. Period. Not sure why so many people get all worked up over the owned vs. leased scheme. But, the only way not to lease from D* as of 3/1/2006 is to NOT to activate a new receiver with them. I "bought" my H20 right before D* switched to leasing. When they swapped my H20-600 model for a -100 they also changed my status from owned to leased. I couldn't care less and in fact prefer to lease because they will replace the receiver anytime it goes bad . No warranty expiration on leased units.

D* CSRs are notorious for not knowing up from down. Call ten different CSRs and you might well get ten different answers to a question. They sometimes even change their tune in the middle of providing support... It takes some persistence and perhaps a degree of masochism to deal with D*. :eek:

Does your "new" H20-600 receiver that D* recently sent you not work properly? If that is the case you need to call and get a replacement. It could, conceivably, take multiple replacements to get one that works correctly, or you might get lucky. Not really any different than when you buy from any other company actually. YMMV! Buy a rabbit's foot. That might help... :)

Just remember: most of the time people only post messages when their stuff doesn't work. The people with receivers that work fine are generally watching TV rather than posting angry messages on forums. FWIW, my H20-100 is working great. But, if it stops working and I get a H20-600 to replace it --- and the H20-600 works okay, I wouldn't care which model was sent. The key here (it seems to me) is whether or not the receiver functions properly? As "they" say, don't try to fix it if it ain't broke... If it is broke, get one that works. Pretty simple? ;)

Trial and error. Submit for a replacement. If the new one is the wrong type, call back, report that it is "too hot to touch" and "locking up". Nothing else, elaborate at your own risk. Specifically request and new one and decline their attempts to troubleshoot. If the CS rep does not cooperate, hang up and call back. Eventually you will get what you want.Bill,

Wrong type? I probably just didn't understand you? You aren't suggesting that someone return a receiver that works fine just because it isn't a particular model, are you?

Bill,

Wrong type? I probably just didn't understand you? You aren't suggesting that someone return a receiver that works fine just because it isn't a particular model, are you?

No.

The 100 and the 600 have quirks that make them unique, as you and I both know after posting the same information over and over for the last 4 months. The 100 runs cooler, has a faster UI, and has a caller ID that works consistently for everyone. The 600 runs very hot, has better OTA senstivity than the 100, and has slightly better SD PQ.

After trying three 100s and three 600s I currently own the 600. I traded coolness, Caller ID, and a fast UI for better PQ and OTA reception. It's the subscriber's choice. With the liberal return policy for the H20 the good news is that we have a choice.

I have both Verizon FIOS and the H20-600 and the Caller ID works fine. This unit has been problem-free.

It is certainly possible. I didn't say the problem was with FIOS. I said that in my opinion the problem was a timing or level problem from the CO. All FIOS COs are not the same. Per many users posts in this forum Caller ID works on some 600s that are connected to some COs. However, I am convinced that EVERY 600 in existence will not work in my house that uses Verizon FIOS. The timing and/or levels are not compatible. 100s work fine because they are a completely different telco modem board.

It is certainly possible. I didn't say the problem was with FIOS. I said that in my opinion the problem was a timing or level problem from the CO. All FIOS COs are not the same. Per many users posts in this forum Caller ID works on some 600s that are connected to some COs. However, I am convinced that EVERY 600 in existence will not work in my house that uses Verizon FIOS. The timing and/or levels are not compatible. 100s work fine because they are a completely different telco modem board.


Your experience on the timing is pretty revealing, especially as you have 100 and 600s in the same house - and the 600 works 1 time out of 50.

As you probably know the caller id info is transmitted between the first and second ring. I would have thought there would be an industry standard on how fast the data can be transmitted, but perhaps there isn't (or worse yet, perhaps the modem in the 600s just cannot reliabily receive at that upper baud rate).

Have you tried to relay any of this information to the real techs at D* instead of a clueless CSR?

Recently? How recent? If you acquired your D* receiver after 2/28/2006 then you are leasing it. Period. Not sure why so many people get all worked up over the owned vs. leased scheme. But, the only way not to lease from D* as of 3/1/2006 is to NOT to activate a new receiver with them. I "bought" my H20 right before D* switched to leasing. When they swapped my H20-600 model for a -100 they also changed my status from owned to leased. I couldn't care less and in fact prefer to lease because they will replace the receiver anytime it goes bad . No warranty expiration on leased units.

D* CSRs are notorious for not knowing up from down. Call ten different CSRs and you might well get ten different answers to a question. They sometimes even change their tune in the middle of providing support... It takes some persistence and perhaps a degree of masochism to deal with D*. :eek:

Does your "new" H20-600 receiver that D* recently sent you not work properly? If that is the case you need to call and get a replacement. It could, conceivably, take multiple replacements to get one that works correctly, or you might get lucky. Not really any different than when you buy from any other company actually. YMMV! Buy a rabbit's foot. That might help... :)

Just remember: most of the time people only post messages when their stuff doesn't work. The people with receivers that work fine are generally watching TV rather than posting angry messages on forums. FWIW, my H20-100 is working great. But, if it stops working and I get a H20-600 to replace it --- and the H20-600 works okay, I wouldn't care which model was sent. The key here (it seems to me) is whether or not the receiver functions properly? As "they" say, don't try to fix it if it ain't broke... If it is broke, get one that works. Pretty simple? ;)

Thanks for your concise reply, but I was hoping for an actual answer to my question.

How recent? 6/28/06

I was not 'worked up' about the lease or owned status, just using it as one example of not getting a definite answer from D*.

After reading a few hundred of your posts, I have learned the following:

The H20-600 may be hot to the touch
You are probably not a thermodynamics engineer

It sometimes rains in the Sarasota area
You may be a meteorologist

Have you tried to relay any of this information to the real techs at D* instead of a clueless CSR?
I think I just saw a velvet painting of the "real techs" at D*? They were all playing poker... :rolleyes:

I dare someone (anyone) to call D* and ask to talk to a real tech... :D

Does anyone know where I can buy an H20-100? I have searched ebay, online, videogon and even on the AVS marketplace but, no one has them or they only have H20-600's. At this point I would take a used one. THX

Thanks for your concise reply, but I was hoping for an actual answer to my question. How recent? 6/28/06 I was not 'worked up' about the lease or owned status, just using it as one example of not getting a definite answer from D*. After reading a few hundred of your posts, I have learned the following: The H20-600 may be hot to the touch; You are probably not a thermodynamics engineer; it sometimes rains in the Sarasota area; You may be a meteorologist
Sorry bellyboater, I thought your question was rhetorical. The answer is that unfortunately D* customers can't request a specific replacement model. Well, that's not totally true. You CAN request a particular model --- you just won't necessarily get the exact model that you request. Hence, my rabbit's foot suggestion. :)

You're the only person who has ever accused me of being concise. ;) You're also most astute in your observations: yes, many H20-600 receivers have been known to get incredibly hot; no, I am not a thermodynamics engineer; and while we have been suffering with drought conditions here in Sarasota for several months, we're entering the tropical storm season. You probably don't have to worry too much about tropical storms in Grand Junction Colorado? Oh yeah... I hope this doesn't disappoint you --- but I'm not a meteorologist --- I am a sit-down comic. :rolleyes:

Why do I get the feeling you don't appreciate my humor? :(

...many H20-600 receivers have been known to get incredibly hot; no, I am not a thermodynamics engineer; and while we have been suffering with drought conditions here in Sarasota for several months, we're entering the tropical storm season.(
My H20-600 is 7 months old and wouldn't even make a good spaceheater for an average closet. Between mine and 4 others I know of, none are heat-problem units and all are in service since last November. I'm not a themodynamics engineer either, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last week. :D

As has been documented elsewhere, there apparently was a bad power supply parts supplier who's units infiltrated a number of the H20-600s for about 6 weeks or so in early 2006. No one really knows for sure how many units that represents, but based on the problem, DirecTV demanded it to be corrected and sent out a number fo replacements, both refurbed H20-600's and H20 100's. I'm sure the original manufacturer is getting a big inoice from D*TV for the replacement costs.

Your experience on the timing is pretty revealing, especially as you have 100 and 600s in the same house - and the 600 works 1 time out of 50.

As you probably know the caller id info is transmitted between the first and second ring. I would have thought there would be an industry standard on how fast the data can be transmitted, but perhaps there isn't (or worse yet, perhaps the modem in the 600s just cannot reliabily receive at that upper baud rate).

Have you tried to relay any of this information to the real techs at D* instead of a clueless CSR?

I am sure there is a protocol spec on the timing and levels of tones. However I have a lot of experience with protocols and they are rarely defined adequately enough to insure 100% performance in all real world applications.

D* has probably 5000 customer service reps who get bombarded with at least 1 million calls a day from 15 million subscribers. I am sure there are a few dozen competent enough to understand the issue. A small subset of those few dozen might have the authority to actually escalate it to someone who could seriously look at the problem. The chance of something actually being done and trickling down to my 600 is so remote that it is not cost effective for me to pursue it. That is not such a knock on D* as it is a description of the reality of a huge technical call center.

does nayone know why I can not get a signal for sat99

... You probably don't have to worry too much about tropical storms in Grand Junction Colorado? Oh yeah... I hope this doesn't disappoint you --- but I'm not a meteorologist --- I am a sit-down comic. :rolleyes:

Why do I get the feeling you don't appreciate my humor? :(

We're into dry weather here. And dry humor. Preferably one-liners. Not big on smiley faces. You may want to take your type of humor on-stage. Watch out for the incoming if the beer is served in bottles.

My H20-600 is 7 months old and wouldn't even make a good spaceheater for an average closet. Between mine and 4 others I know of, none are heat-problem units and all are in service since last November. I'm not a themodynamics engineer either, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last week. :D

As has been documented elsewhere, there apparently was a bad power supply parts supplier who's units infiltrated a number of the H20-600s for about 6 weeks or so in early 2006. No one really knows for sure how many units that represents, but based on the problem, DirecTV demanded it to be corrected and sent out a number fo replacements, both refurbed H20-600's and H20 100's. I'm sure the original manufacturer is getting a big inoice from D*TV for the replacement costs.

FYI the -600 "original manufacturer" was/is LG. I bought one in 02/06 from CC, returned it, bought another at Walmart, both had the same OTA problem, one made in Korea, the second in China. Kept the second and used my TV for OTA. Received a 'free replacement' unit from D* on 6/28/06 for my old MPEG-2 unit. All hot-as-hell to the touch. If D* solved this problem, why are they still, as of last week, shipping these units? And why does the spec page in the owners manual not list the power consumption? That is ALWAYS listed by all manufacturers. Maybe because 'spaceheaters' draw a lot of current.

And ya, I am a degreed Electronics Engineer. FWIW, the thermodynamics course was a bitch.

FYI the -600 "original manufacturer" was/is LG. I bought one in 02/06 from CC, returned it, bought another at Walmart, both had the same OTA problem, one made in Korea, the second in China. Kept the second and used my TV for OTA. Received a 'free replacement' unit from D* on 6/28/06 for my old MPEG-2 unit. All hot-as-hell to the touch. If D* solved this problem, why are they still, as of last week, shipping these units? And why does the spec page in the owners manual not list the power consumption? That is ALWAYS listed by all manufacturers. Maybe because 'spaceheaters' draw a lot of current.

And ya, I am a degreed Electronics Engineer. FWIW, the thermodynamics course was a bitch.

I am a EE as well. I can assure you that training is not required to know the unit runs hot. It has not been 'fixed' because it is not a defect. That is how hot the 600 runs reflective of the combined current draw of all the components. Nothing is shorted out and everything is working properly except the telco board, which has nothing to do with excessive heat.

Now whether or not the design is optimum for home STB use...that is an item for debate. But without schematics and the source code it is hard to speculate on the design choices.

I can assure you that training is not required to know the unit runs hot. It has not been 'fixed' because it is not a defect.
It was an admitted defect, which is why they are so easily replacing them. The "old" power supplies drew too much power and heated up in some units to well-done on the steak-cooking chart. Not all the H20-600's had that problem. They have replaced tons of H20-600s (even for some folks who just wanted the H20-100s and there was nothing wrong with their H20-600).

You don't have to work at NASA to know hot and cold.

Thanks Jeff! I found some information from an earlier post. I am copying it here .




My second remote arrived today so I programmed it for one of my receivers. It does work but it is a little tricky. Being male, I didn't bother to read the directions but got it working after several attempts.
The important elements are to reset the receiver and original remote to IR, then go to the RF setup and program both remotes while the instructions are on the screen. However, don't hit the select button for the second time (done) until you have programmed both remotes. I got into a situation where neither remote would work so I reset them and everything was back to IR mode. Third attempt worked like a charm.
Good luck.

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One other possible barrier to using multiple RF remotes on a single box is that the functions on the remote can all be reporgrammed and it is possible that one or more of the remotes has had its D* function re-programmed. This was the case for one of my remotes.

The issue is that the four functions represented by the slide switch at the top of the remote can be reprogrammed to represent any of the other functions. Someone had reprogrammed the D* setting of the slide switch to be an AV1 instead of D*. I had to call D* and get them to help me diagnose and correct the problem before I could use the directions above. All I recall is that the D* slide setting must be set to 0001 so that the D* slide position setting knows to send H-20 codes instead of AV1 codes. Once the 0001 was set, then I was able to follow the directions that you listed above and everything worked like a charm. I wish I had documented how to change the D* slide position to 0001 but I did not. I hope this helps eliminate another gotcha they could be experiencing.

Jeff

It was an admitted defect, which is why they are so easily replacing them. The "old" power supplies drew too much power and heated up in some units to well-done on the steak-cooking chart. Not all the H20-600's had that problem. They have replaced tons of H20-600s (even for some folks who just wanted the H20-100s and there was nothing wrong with their H20-600).

You don't have to work at NASA to know hot and cold.

Nope. Wrong.

They replace ANY unit you call up and complain about. They will replace your 600 if you call up and complain it runs too cold! And they will agree with you about it. They are just keeping the masses calm and gives the customer service reps something to talk about to a customer. Haven't you figured that out? The orignal ones ran at 107 to 110 degrees and the "modified" refurbed ones run at (surprise) 107 to 110 degrees.

Not only that I have had three that ran at 107 to 110 degrees and all work just fine.

From reading this thread, I must have the ONLY 600 (installed on 1-31-06) that has a working Caller ID. Never had a problem since Day 1. :confused:

I guess I should consider myself lucky.

No you're not. I have two (count 'em, two!) H-20 600s and caller ID works on both. :D

Hey Fellas.. I've recently aquired an H20 (600) sat box and have it running thru a Yamaha RX-V1600 receiver via HDMI (Sat-Receiver-TV).. I also have a Sony DVD connected to the receiver via Component/Optical.. When I use the DVD I get great surround sound but when the sat box is the source I just get what sounds like 2ch sound with very faint sound from the surround rears and no sub..
.. I've been thru both manuals and followed the instructions found there.. I spent a few hours yesterday between Yamaha and D* tech support.. Plus a good bit of time scouring this thread.. Yamaha says that if the sat box doesn't use the 1.1 firmware revision of HDCP that surround will not function.. D* TS says that they can't/won't (per themselves) tell me which version of HDCP they're running..
.. The sat box s'posedly has the latest update on it.. I did "The Troubleshooting Waltz" with a few of the CSR's I talked with yesterday to no avail.. We swapped out the optical from the DVD to the H20, made sure DD was set to "on" and such.. No change.. When I finally did get a CSR that wasn't reading directly from the screen and sounding like "live memorex" I got put on hold and when I leaned forward to do something the corner of the table caught the "off" button on my headset phone that was clipped to my pocket.. Rats.!
.. Anywhoo.. Has anyone got any suggestions as to what I may try next.? It's no real "deal-breaker" but an annoyance none-the-less.. I'd like it to function properly..
.. Thanks in advance.!! d:^) JiNC

They replace ANY unit you call up and complain about. They will replace your 600 if you call up and complain it runs too cold! ............Not only that I have had three that ran at 107 to 110 degrees and all work just fine.
That's because they made the decision to keep customers happy, rather than go through a complicated replacement process. Since they have an agreement for returned unit repairs being paid by the vendor who supplied the defective components, they don't really care how many of them there are.

As far as the temp of a ton of H20-600's that DON'T have the heat problem - mine runs at 97 degrees (using a digital thermometer after 5 hours of use last night).

Bottom line - not all H20-600's (nor H20-100s with the weak OTA reception problems) are created equal.

Your actual mileage may vary. :D

I took a computer case fan and attached it to a power brick, ac adapter that I had, who knows what it goes to, I put the fan blowing right into the side of the receiver. It seems alot cooler, I didn't have any problems before, but I am hoping this will extend the life, even though I can get it replaced for free, I don't need the hastle. It took maybe 3 minutes to convert this fan to A/C from parts that I would normally just throw out. I picked the lowest power adaptor of the choices I could find in my junk box. 7volts, .7 amps. Fan runs relavitly quite, I am sure a better fan would be less loud.

I am sure there is a protocol spec on the timing and levels of tones. However I have a lot of experience with protocols and they are rarely defined adequately enough to insure 100% performance in all real world applications.

D* has probably 5000 customer service reps who get bombarded with at least 1 million calls a day from 15 million subscribers. I am sure there are a few dozen competent enough to understand the issue. A small subset of those few dozen might have the authority to actually escalate it to someone who could seriously look at the problem. The chance of something actually being done and trickling down to my 600 is so remote that it is not cost effective for me to pursue it. That is not such a knock on D* as it is a description of the reality of a huge technical call center.

Telcos have book called PRACTICES which defines usage, all central offices may not comply. Companders used (sets gain/compression) in modems if not adjusted properly (overdriven especially bad) will cause intermittent decoding.

Does anyone know if the H20 can be opened up and a mini case fan could be installed? I can find the fan but, I have no idea if there is room inside of the unit or how I would power the fan from the INSIDE of the unit. I'll risk doing it and post photos if I can get a little help from youse guyz!

Thanks

Telcos have book called PRACTICES which defines usage, all central offices may not comply. Companders used (sets gain/compression) in modems if not adjusted properly (overdriven especially bad) will cause intermittent decoding.


Good point. Here is a snippet of the Bellcore spec. As I suspected there are no timing parameters for interdigit and intersymbol characters. The start and stop characters are left to "minimum" and "maximum" amounts of time, but nothing specific. There is a lot of 'slop' to interpret and it is left to the software developer who wrote the decoder to account for all the possible variances for every CO in the country. A lousy developer means a lousy decoder.

The data signalling interface has the following characteristics:

Link Type: 2-wire, simplex
Transmission Scheme: Analog, phase-coherent FSK
Logical 1 (mark) 1200 +/- 12 Hz
Logical 0 (space) 2200 +/- 22 Hz
Transmission Rate: 1200 bps
Transmission Level: 13.5 +/- dBm into 900 ohm load

Please read my installing fan question on the previous page, it got bumped before anyone could respond.

Hey Fellas.. I've recently aquired an H20 (600) sat box and have it running thru a Yamaha RX-V1600 receiver via HDMI (Sat-Receiver-TV).. I also have a Sony DVD connected to the receiver via Component/Optical.. When I use the DVD I get great surround sound but when the sat box is the source I just get what sounds like 2ch sound with very faint sound from the surround rears and no sub..

.. Anywhoo.. Has anyone got any suggestions as to what I may try next.? It's no real "deal-breaker" but an annoyance none-the-less..
Plug a set of RCA L+R audio cables into one set of analog audio-out jacks on the back of the H20-600. The other end of the cables don't have to connect to anything, or you can plug them into your sound system's analog input to use as a backup sound source.

Scott,

What else do you have connected to the optical audio inputs on your A/V receiver? I've had a few devices that could do either optical or coaxial audio output. Same digital quality using either one or the other... but you probably know all of this.

If you haven't already done so, check to see if one of the devices you have currently connected using optical (toslink) audio also has a coaxial audio output? If not, you will probably have to decide which device's audio is more important to have connected digitally. Or, manually juggle the connections. Ughhh. :(

Or you could always buy a new super-duper, high-priced A/V receiver since money is no object these days. Help the economy grow and prosper. :D

Thanks, I can buy the fiber to coax adapter fairly cheap.

My concern was the cable Input. It us very handy to have all the inputs on the satellite receiver.

Aldo, about a year ago, I replaced a defective receiver with one I bought on e-bay. D* made me have a two year agreement. I had been with them for 10 years. After giving them alot of grief them gave me some concessions, but would not let me out of the agreement.

So I was concerned about buying another receievr and extending my agreement.

Any thoughts?

Does anyone know if the H20 can be opened up and a mini case fan could be installed?Which H20 do you have? The -100 has room for an internal fan, although the -100 has a different board than the -600 and runs much cooler. It doesn't need a fan.

The -600 does not have room for an internal fan, but you can plug a USB computer fan into the USB port on the -600 and just lay the fan on top of the cabinet, to extract heat.

does nayone know why I can not get a signal for sat99
No.

...about a year ago, I replaced a defective receiver with one I bought on e-bay. D* made me have a two year agreement. I had been with them for 10 years. After giving them alot of grief them gave me some concessions, but would not let me out of the agreement.

So I was concerned about buying another receievr and extending my agreement.You can probably switch to a lease agreement and get a defective box swapped out, without having to start a new programming commitment. Call D* Customer Retention department at:
800 824-9081
If you mention you're a long time sub and dissatisfied with problems you're having, and mention you're considering switching to cable or Dish, they'll probably convert a receiver to "leased" and replace it w/o a new commitment. Monthly cost for leased vs owned equipt. is the same.

Has anybody heard if there is going to be a software upgrade anytime soon for the H20-100 AND the H20-600?

It has been since Feb that we last got a 600 update, and there have been NO 100 updates.

I would hope we get one in the next week or so - there are going to be some interactivity enhancements coming on the 16th - and right now only the D10 and D11 SD IRDS have interactvie capability.

Thanks, I can buy the fiber to coax adapter fairly cheap. My concern was the cable Input. It us very handy to have all the inputs on the satellite receiver. Aldo, about a year ago, I replaced a defective receiver with one I bought on e-bay. D* made me have a two year agreement. I had been with them for 10 years. After giving them alot of grief them gave me some concessions, but would not let me out of the agreement. So I was concerned about buying another receievr and extending my agreement. Any thoughts?I'm a little curious about why you subscribe to cable AND D*? Sunday Ticket or another reason? I've had D* service since its inception. However, both cable and D* have their own particular strengths and weaknesses. Which is probably why D* is eager to lock customers into long-term committments...

I have two DirecTiVo series1 receivers with lifetime subscriptions. And now a H20 with a 2-year committment... But it is tempting to switch...

Has anybody heard if there is going to be a software upgrade anytime soon for the H20-100 AND the H20-600?

It has been since Feb that we last got a 600 update, and there have been NO 100 updates.

I would hope we get one in the next week or so - there are going to be some interactivity enhancements coming on the 16th - and right now only the D10 and D11 SD IRDS have interactvie capability.
I was thinking about the same thing just minutes ago - scary, huh?

No news anywhere I can find so far on a new H20 firmware upgrade....

I'm a little curious about why you subscribe to cable AND D*? Sunday Ticket or another reason? I've had D* service since its inception. However, both cable and D* have their own particular strengths and weaknesses. Which is probably why D* is eager to lock customers into long-term committments...

I have two DirecTiVo series1 receivers with lifetime subscriptions. And now a H20 with a 2-year committment... But it is tempting to switch...


Well, there are demanding viewers in my house (wife & kids) that will not put up with loss of signal due to rain. So basic cable gets them a few channels to limp along. Besides I use WOW(cable) for internet access as well.

Well, there are demanding viewers in my house (wife & kids) that will not put up with loss of signal due to rain. So basic cable gets them a few channels to limp along. Besides I use WOW(cable) for internet access as well.

There is always free OTA digital to bridge those rough times. :D

I have never had a rain fade since my AT9 dish install in December of last year. I have 3 receivers hooked to it and none of them fade that I can detect. We get heavy rain but it does not fade like either of my two previous dishes.

There is always free OTA digital to bridge those rough times. :D

I have never had a rain fade since my AT9 dish install in December of last year. I have 3 receivers hooked to it and none of them fade that I can detect. We get heavy rain but it does not fade like either of my two previous dishes.


I have 4 receivers and always get fade. I even get some fade on the Digital OTA signal.

You shouldn't be getting outages in just "rain". The only time I ever get an outage nowadays is during the heaviest of thunderstorms, and then only for a couple of minutes or so. And I've never lost my locals, which are on spot beams.

Now, back in 1995, I got rainfade a *lot*. But the satellites, dishes and receivers have all improved since then.

Well, there are demanding viewers in my house (wife & kids) that will not put up with loss of signal due to rain. So basic cable gets them a few channels to limp along. Besides I use WOW(cable) for internet access as well.I understand --- it's definitely a good idea to keep the natives happy. :)

I had (past-tense) a cable modem and was required to pay additionally for minimum cable-TV access --- even though I never used it. I saved a small fortune (relatively speaking) by cutting the cable and going with DSL for broadband. I debated whether to go the other route and opt for full-cable (TV & modem) and dropping D* --- but decided to stay with D*.

I really didn't want to turn my two DirecTiVo receivers into doorstops --- but then again, cable has HD-DVRs right now, which D* (Mpeg4) does not. Tough decisions...

But now I wonder if I might regret my decision... I 've started to regularly lose sat signal during just moderate rain storms. I'm thinking that re-aiming my AT-9 might be the answer to that though. And billt111's and arxaw's reports of not suffering with rainfade is most encouraging.

But, I dread trying to re-aim it --- mainly due to lack of DIY experience with 5-LNB dishes. :eek:

You shouldn't be getting outages in just "rain". The only time I ever get an outage nowadays is during the heaviest of thunderstorms, and then only for a couple of minutes or so. And I've never lost my locals, which are on spot beams.

Now, back in 1995, I got rainfade a *lot*. But the satellites, dishes and receivers have all improved since then.


I agree. If you are always getting satellite fade in any type of rain your dish needs alignment or there is something wrong with the install, like too much attenuation in the wiring or distribution system in the home.

OTA frequencies do not fade during rain. The wavelength of frequencies under 1 GHz is too long to be affected by the size of a rain drop. If you are getting OTA dropouts and pixelization in strong signal areas then you need a better antenna, a good preamp, and/or a reevaluation of your OTA setup. Of course, if you are normally in a weak signal area or the channel is on the edge of dropout anyway there are slight fluctuations in OTA signal strength from season to season, day to day, and minute to minute.

Many areas (mostly smaller markets) still have OTA digital stations broadcasting at very low power that do suffer from OTA rain fade.

I recently had DirecTech out to realign my dish. My 99 network transponder4 was at 13. When He left it was at 88. He put suppporting brackets on the dish and attached them to the house. The dish is heavy as we all know. After he installed the supoort arms he said "he could swing from them" they were so strong. Nice job!

Many areas (mostly smaller markets) still have OTA digital stations broadcasting at very low power that do suffer from OTA rain fade.

Sigh. :(

I feel compelled to respond to the disinformation so I will try again. I forget this is not a technical forum. If these statements are allowed to stand they end up appearing over and over again.

An electromagnetic wave does not fade just because it is low power. It has to do with the length of the wave energy. A rain drop is capable of absorbing energy from the electromagnetic wave IF the size of the drop is similar to the size of the wave, or some multiple thereof. The phemomenon is called resonance. Rain fade has NOTHING to do with whether an OTA UHF or VHF channel is low power or not. Rain drops have NO EFFECT on frequencies below 1 GHz. At 1 gig the size of the wave is approximately 1 foot long. At 300 KHz the wave is about 3 feet long. Unless the global warming starts producing rain drops close to 1 foot in diameter there is no chance of an OTA signal being affected any time soon.

Rain. The propagation characteristics of the atmosphere that most strongly influence the fixed satellite service (FSS) systems are associated with rain. Rain on a satellite radio path causes fading, or "rain attenuation." The attenuation in dB is roughly proportional to the square of the operating frequency, and rain that will cause a 2 dB fade on a 6 GHz uplink will wipe out a 30 GHz channel with about 50 dB of attenuation.

Rain can also cause de-polarization of an electromagnetic wave causing them to interfere with each other and cause more attenuation. That phenomenon also has no effect on frequencies that have too long of a wavelength, i.e. frequencies below 1 gig.

Here is some additional reading I found in about 10 seconds of searching.

http://www.wtec.org/loyola/satcom/c4_s1.htm

Wow billt1111,
That's cool stuff. Thanks for sharing that.

On another note. Last night i was watching an HD program on the Mpeg-4 feed and it looked horrible, so I switched to OTA....got "searching for signal". I tried other OTA stations and they all said "searching for signal". I waited until a commercial and hit the reset button and then all OTA stations worked again. I have the H20-600....is this box dying? This never happened before and it's not a leased box. :( It's puts out a great picture, but everything else about it stinks.

The H20-600, two of which I have are running way to hot. As we all know. I'm going to do either one of two things... let it burn up inside and have DTV replace. Or put a cooling fan on top and cool it down. The PC cooling fans will work ok. I would rather have it burn up and have them both replaced. Mine are not leased either.

I agree. If you are always getting satellite fade in any type of rain your dish needs alignment or there is something wrong with the install, like too much attenuation in the wiring or distribution system in the home.

OTA frequencies do not fade during rain. The wavelength of frequencies under 1 GHz is too long to be affected by the size of a rain drop. If you are getting OTA dropouts and pixelization in strong signal areas then you need a better antenna, a good preamp, and/or a reevaluation of your OTA setup. Of course, if you are normally in a weak signal area or the channel is on the edge of dropout anyway there are slight fluctuations in OTA signal strength from season to season, day to day, and minute to minute.


I have my antenna in an attic. Ii is a TERK TV55, but is has a power supply in the basement. Then a splitter that feeds two TV's. Give me an idea on what model preamp migt help and I'll get one.
Thanks.

I just found my Radio Shack cooling fan and mounted rubber feet to the unit and plugged it in. The unit is now almost cold to the touch on top. Lets see how it runs now. My other unit isnt on as much as this one. It also has a much higher top clearence and I lifted it so it has more ground clearence and underflow of air.

After reading this thread I looked long and hard to find a H20-100 but could not. I bought an H20-600 and it indeed runs very hot. It was produced 11/14/05 so once again, can the unit be opened up and have a fan installed or am I limited to the USB fan option?

THX

After reading this thread I looked long and hard to find a H20-100 but could not. I bought an H20-600 and it indeed runs very hot. It was produced 11/14/05 so once again, can the unit be opened up and have a fan installed or am I limited to the USB fan option?

THX


I wouldnt open it. Would void any warranty. USB or AC. Mine is AC but I like the sound of USB since there is a USB on the back :)

I could care less about the warrantee as I own the box and if they can figure out I opened it then they should be on the psychic network as there are no seals of any kind.

I am attaching 3 photos for the "experts". There is plenty of room inside for any number of fans but, I have no idea where to obtain power. I zoomed in on the power supply and there is a plug there but, if I unplug it then the unit will not power up. Perhaps there is a way to get a splitter to draw power from somewhere.

Any help is appreciated.

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g22/notanewbie/DSC00656.jpg

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g22/notanewbie/DSC00655.jpg

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g22/notanewbie/DSC00654.jpg

Do a search on.....Sony HD100 fan. About 3 or 4 years ago a guy put a fan on his, with all the how to's and [ pic:]

Has anybody heard if there is going to be a software upgrade anytime soon for the H20-100 AND the H20-600?

It has been since Feb that we last got a 600 update, and there have been NO 100 updates.



Wierd....why am I showing a May date?


http://img462.imageshack.us/img462/7038/h205es.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Wierd....why am I showing a May date?


http://img462.imageshack.us/img462/7038/h205es.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Depends when you hooked up the unit. Obviously if you activated the unit after February, your software update could not be downloaded from the dish until then. Did you activate this unit in May?

Do a search on.....Sony HD100 fan. About 3 or 4 years ago a guy put a fan on his, with all the how to's and [ pic:]


My HD100 had a fan. My HD300 didnt.

Ok, gotta love the internet..I found which wires were the hot and ground on the usb plug and which were for data. Since no one makes a USB case fan, Im gonna make one. I will use a standard USB plug and a Radio Shack Case fan mounted to the inside of the H20 lid. When the lid is removed the fan will come out with it, so it will not me permanently mounted in the unit or on the board.

I have 2 questions...

1. Should I have the fan blow air into the unit or draw air out of the unit? By blowing air in I will be cooling the entire unit wherever the heat is being generated. If I pull air out of the unit, it will act like a vaccuum by sucking the hot air out of the unit, essentially keeping the unit from getting too hot.

2. In the photos the power supply is to the right but the vents on the cover are above teh silver heat sinks on the board. Should I place the fan above teh heat sinks or the power supply?

THX

My Radio Shack case mounted fan is sucking the air out. Blowing in will get dust and stuff inside the unit which will eventually defeat the purpose of the fan and heat will build up again. But this of course is IMHO. I am no "expert" :)

My HD100 had a fan. My HD300 didnt.

I know the HD100 has a fan, I still have one. If you have one then you know why this guy put another fan on his. I put up with it until the HD200 came out and retired the 100.

Originally Posted by HDTVFanAtic
Wierd....why am I showing a May date?

Have no idea. I installed my H20-100 on 24 May. It now shows Original Ver as: 003E 020E, B00000113 with Past Upgrade as: None

Carl

OK, first attempt was no good. I tried a 12 volt fan and while the USB attempted to power it up, it didnt have enough juice to keep it spinning. I am going to assume the fan I had was just too big and required too much power from the USB port. SO, I am off to Radio Shack to find a smaller fan that pulls less current.

I know the HD100 has a fan, I still have one. If you have one then you know why this guy put another fan on his. I put up with it until the HD200 came out and retired the 100.


Both units, my HD100 and HD300 are not in use because of the H20. The HD100 never ran as hot as the H20. Very warm but not as hot. I never had and issue with the HD100. Keeping electronic equuipment as cool as poosible is always a good thing. Since the Radio Shack fan Ijust put on the H20 its nice and cool

1. Should I have the fan blow air into the unit or draw air out of the unit? By blowing air in I will be cooling the entire unit wherever the heat is being generated. If I pull air out of the unit, it will act like a vaccuum by sucking the hot air out of the unit, essentially keeping the unit from getting too hot.


THX

When I build computers I ALWAYS prefer the air being "sucked" out and pulling air in from the bottom/front of the case...creates proper air flow. As is the same with your attic fan....suck out the hot air.

Even though this box is not designed for a fan, I would assume that mounting the fan on top ( venting out of the case) should pull air in from the side vents and cool quite nice.

Let me know how you make out. I don't feel like putting any more $$$ into this POC. I'd rather just lease a H20-100 and put no money out.

Both units, my HD100 and HD300 are not in use because of the H20. The HD100 never ran as hot as the H20. Very warm but not as hot. I never had and issue with the HD100. Keeping electronic equuipment as cool as poosible is always a good thing. Since the Radio Shack fan Ijust put on the H20 its nice and cool

I never said the HD100 ran hot. The fan was so loud you could hear it all over the house, on or off. Back when it came out there was a thread that went on and on about how loud the fan was. Ken Ross rase so much he** with Sony that they gave him his money back. If your fan never whine then you are one of the few. Back then a guy at Crutchfield told me that this box was the most returned stb that they ever sold. At $800, it was a POS.

I never said the HD100 ran hot. The fan was so loud you could hear it all over the house, on or off. Back when it came out there was a thread that went on and on about how loud the fan was. Ken Ross rase so much he** with Sony that they gave him his money back. If your fan never whine then you are one of the few. Back then a guy at Crutchfield told me that this box was the most returned stb that they ever sold. At $800, it was a POS.


PLEASE dont take offense I didnt mean to accuse you of saying anything about it running hot. Sorry! :confused: :(

But since we were talking about fans... I thought hot. :)

PLEASE dont take offense I didnt mean to accuse you of saying anything about it running hot. Sorry! :confused: :(

But since we were talking about fans... I thought hot. :)
No offense taken here. :)

cooooooooool! yes coool we want our H20's to run coooool GD-it! :)

Sigh.
In two different markets I've lived in, when it's raining, the low power OTA digital stations in the area have dropouts. I call it rain fade.

You can sigh and call it whatever you want, or deny it happens. I really couldn't care less.

I have my antenna in an attic. Ii is a TERK TV55, but is has a power supply in the basement. Then a splitter that feeds two TV's. Give me an idea on what model preamp migt help and I'll get one.You don't need a preamp. You need a decent antenna. The TERK TV55 is one of the worst antennas you could use.

Check the local info thread for your area (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=453241) to find out what type of antennas work best for the channels being used in your town.

In two different markets I've lived in, when it's raining, the low power OTA digital stations in the area have dropouts. I call it rain fade.

You can sigh and call it whatever you want, or deny it happens. I really couldn't care less.

Fair enough. I think you are better than that however. You post a lot of good information and are very helpful to a lot of people in this forum. I am sure it will continue.

talk about improvements in D* set top boxes

the HD100 had the 1/2 hour dropouts which was fixed by a download; many of us removed the noisy fan (you also had to remove the ciruit board that powers it) and added vent holes in the top cover: it ran cooler and silent

The HD200 had much better PQ , no fan and no RF remote: HD300 was one of the best and had RF remote

H20 is a pretty good box but runs hot: if you add a fan you have to be sure it is moving air over the heat producing components: sucking air out usually moves air more evenly throughout the cabinet depending where air is drawn in

I have my antenna in an attic. Ii is a TERK TV55, but is has a power supply in the basement. Then a splitter that feeds two TV's. Give me an idea on what model preamp migt help and I'll get one.
Thanks.

You can try a preamp. A channel master 7777 is one of the best. However you run the risk of a common mistake. Unless your antenna system (including the wiring and all the associated attenuation) provides enough gain then all you feed to the preamp is noise with a small amount of desired signal. Therefore all that comes out of the preamp is increased noise mixed with desired signal. It is difficult for anyone to say for sure whether your particular system would benefit from a preamp, but it only costs about $65 to try. However you might want to start with a better antenna that can provide more gain in the bands you need. Good luck.

You can try a preamp. A channel master 7777 is one of the best. However you run the risk of a common mistake. Unless your antenna system (including the wiring and all the associated attenuation) provides enough gain then all you feed to the preamp is noise with a small amount of desired signal. Therefore all that comes out of the preamp is increased noise mixed with desired signal. It is difficult for anyone to say for sure whether your particular system would benefit from a preamp, but it only costs about $65 to try. However you might want to start with a better antenna that can provide more gain in the bands you need. Good luck.Hi Bill,

I'm just now installing an antenna (Channel Master 4228). I live in a fringe area (42 to 56 miles distant) and antennaweb shows that I should use a pre-amp for best reception from some of the stations. My H20 receiver shows that some stations have a signal strength near 80, but others are much lower --- varying between 0 and 30. Is it at all likely that a pre-amp would help me or instead be a mistake and only amplify "noise" like you warned. Apparently (?) some of the stations I'm trying to receive are transmitting with much less power than a different station at the same location...

My MAIN question is: "Why Can't Anything Be Simple?" Just joking! :D

The answer in this case is because the FCC is involved... ;)

Depends when you hooked up the unit. Obviously if you activated the unit after February, your software update could not be downloaded from the dish until then. Did you activate this unit in May?

Computer Bios and Dish Shows the date of the actual Bios - not the download.

Is Directv using download instead of Firmware date?

That's pretty stupid if so...but then again thinking about who we are talking about....

Computer Bios and Dish Shows the date of the actual Bios - not the download.

Is Directv using download instead of Firmware date?

That's pretty stupid if so...but then again thinking about who we are talking about....

Yes, D* is using the date the software was downloaded to your STB.

anyone here successfully program their home theatre receiver with the remote so that when you press the volume buttons on the directv remote, it changes the volume through the HT receiver?

with my previous directv (non-hd dvr), i was able to control the volume with my onkyo receiver.

but with the h20, i went through the programming but the only way i can change the volume on the onkyo is if i switch it over to "AV1". Is it possible to change the volume without having to do that?

....but with the h20, i went through the programming but the only way i can change the volume on the onkyo is if i switch it over to "AV1". Is it possible to change the volume without having to do that?

Page 33 of the manual has the steps, but there's something not quite correct about that page. I tried following it and it never worked for me. So, I called Support, explained the problem to the guy, and he walked me through it.

Waaaaay back in this message base, on page 36 or so, is one of my first messages and I outlined the process. The search feature here and me don't get alone very well, but a message on that is there.

anyone here successfully program their home theatre receiver with the remote so that when you press the volume buttons on the directv remote, it changes the volume through the HT receiver?Yes, I did it.

It was a straight-forward and simple process actually. I just followed the directions for programming AV1 for my Denon a/v receiver. Then when I switched the H20 remote back to "DirecTV" mode from the "AV1" mode --- the H20 remote controlled the Denon's volume and muting. If yours isn't working there is something wrong, because it should work... You do NOT need to switch to AV1 to control your Onkyo with the H20 remote.

Sorry, but I don't know why yours isn't working though...

Page 33 of the manual has the steps, but there's something not quite correct about that page. I tried following it and it never worked for me. So, I called Support, explained the problem to the guy, and he walked me through it.

Waaaaay back in this message base, on page 36 or so, is one of my first messages and I outlined the process. The search feature here and me don't get alone very well, but a message on that is there.

yea the manual doesnt really say much hehe ... but after goin through bout 20 pages, i did find your post on page 25. and i got it to work finally. thanks!!!!!

i guess the part i failed to do was cover the remote when doing the "993 then select" portion :D

I had the same problem with the remote controlling the receiver and fixed controlling the audio volume and muting in DTV mode thanks to the above info. But when I hit "off" on the remote, it still only turns off the tv and H20, not the receiver. I still have to go to av1 to turn off the receiver. Is this the way it is supposed to work? Or is there yet another step I failed to follow? (receiver is a sony str-de475)

Yes, D* is using the date the software was downloaded to your STB.

That is strange since the unit had been online since February.

Wonder why it took 90 days to take a download.

I had the same problem with the remote controlling the receiver and fixed controlling the audio volume and muting in DTV mode thanks to the above info. But when I hit "off" on the remote, it still only turns off the tv and H20, not the receiver. I still have to go to av1 to turn off the receiver. Is this the way it is supposed to work? Or is there yet another step I failed to follow? (receiver is a sony str-de475)

There may be a firmware problem with the D* remote. My remote will not turn on both my Pany TH-50PX25 and the H20 without moving the mode slide switch from the rightmost position. However it will turn off both units if left in the right position and still do all the other Pany functions (volume, input select, etc.). I just leave it in the right position and and turn on the Pany with the Pany remote. An option that has been suggested is to use a programmable universal remote.

Why this forum can be a detriment to my HT experience:


So, I recieved my first H20 (-100) last Saturday. Looked great! Worked great!!

Sunday, I'm watching golf in glorious HD, and BANG! It dies :( Wont even power up. Nothing.


Ah well, I figure, I'll call 'em up and they'll send me a new one.

I do, they do.

I receive it today, pull it from the box and see the back is kinda banged up. I look at the model # and notice it's a "600" rather than a "100."

Not knowing the difference, I start reading this forum and a few others, and see all the "quirks" for each.


So, I fire her up, and I'm noticing the delay in the guide....but, am I really?

Or is it just in my head that it's supposed to be slower?


See my dillema now?


DAMN AVS!!! :mad: :mad: :mad:




Anyway, I called in, told the CSR who assured me there was no difference between the 100 and the 600, and the guide should be the exact same speed so I must have another faulty H20 (LOL!)...


Here's to hoping they send me a 100 in 2 days, just to put my wondering mind at ease...

For those interested in firmware updates, my H20-600 just ran an update and now shows "Past Upgrade: 0F14, Tue 7/11 at 1:05a"

I have a 100 and it updated as well. Walked in on it in the bedroom doing its thing.
Can't find the remote so I'll check it out tommrow.

I have it as well. I did notice I have all N/A on all transponders on the 99 (10 & 11) I forget which network of the 99 showed signal before. When it did it was only one transponder and I think it was #4 which showed 88.

The New Upgrade Borks The Ka Satellite Meter Signals.....

I Would Not Advise This - Something Is F..........

If you believe what the new firmware is telling you, the 99W satellite has been completely shut down and the 103W now has only 6 transponders working.


http://img158.imageshack.us/img158/1985/dsc001083kt.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/6933/dsc001040zg.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

For those interested in firmware updates, my H20-600 just ran an update and now shows "Past Upgrade: 0F14, Tue 7/11 at 1:05a"

My 600 is still at 0F06 downloaded on 06/03. Does anyone else with a 600 have the upgrade?

My 600 is still at 0F06 downloaded on 06/03. Does anyone else with a 600 have the upgrade?


I do

I had the same problem with the remote controlling the receiver and fixed controlling the audio volume and muting in DTV mode thanks to the above info. But when I hit "off" on the remote, it still only turns off the tv and H20, not the receiver. I still have to go to av1 to turn off the receiver. Is this the way it is supposed to work? Or is there yet another step I failed to follow? (receiver is a sony str-de475)


Same equipment-- same problem! In fact, when I go to AV1 to turn the Sony receiver off, I have to press the power off button twice.

Yes, D* is using the date the software was downloaded to your STB.

Not that I think it was because of anything posted here in the last 3 days, but it is interesting that D* now does not show the BIOS and the date downloaded side by side any longer - closer to industry norm of computer bios/dating.

It does show the date of the update, but in a totally different section than the current version.

Originally Posted by bmilacek
For those interested in firmware updates, my H20-600 just ran an update and now shows "Past Upgrade: 0F14, Tue 7/11 at 1:05a"

What differences do you see? I have no such update on my 600. Hopefully faster guide? Could you please advise if you know.

hey guys. I just bought the H20. Getting the hidef set later in the week but I am going ahead and activating the H20. I see in the box something called a "B Band COnverter" foKa-Lo band up conversion..whatever that means. I have a 3lnb dish and like I said I am getting a hi def projector later this week. What is the convertor for and am I suppoed to use it?

thanks

I also bought the Terk indoor HD antenna and testing it out jsut guessing where to point I am able to pull in most digital OAR channels with a couple not quite strong enough..is there a way to get a signal strength reading like a meter or tone or something for over the air channels on the H20?

B BAnd convertor is for use with a 5LNB dish. Save it for later.

There is a OTA signal strength meter built into the H20 in the Antenna Setup menu.

Well, the 0F14 update last night has completely messed up my H20. I can no longer connect via my Denon 3806 using HDMI. The receiver just constantly reboots itself unless I connect it to directly to the TV. Even worse, the Channel Up/Down controls on the remote no longer work. Pressing either jus causes the screen to blank momentarily with no change in channel. I can still directly enter a channel number and go to it.

Time to call DirecTV... :mad:

Kirk, Cary, NC

To upgrade the software of the H20 follow these instructions.

1. Push and release the red reset button next to card.
2. When the "Hello" screen appears enter 0 2 4 6 8
That is it, the screen on your TV will go blank for a couple of seconds and then a
new screen will come up saying the reciever is upgrading and a bar will show the progress. It takes appox. 10 min. Thats it.

I just got my owned not leased H20/600 and am in the process of setting up my at9. is this update thing going to work o.k. or am I entering into a nightmare? Too many problems! my old sony DSS sat-B2 still going strong. I'm wondering if my desire to update my technology to plasma/HD/at9 is a big mistake? :eek:

my H20/600 is MFR 1/11/06 AM I IN FOR PROBLEMS?

Someone say something encourging, please

Is there any reason why I can't get this remote to switch from IR to RF? I followed the on-screen instructions but it still does not work in RF mode.

Update installed...no problems....all is well...they sky is not falling.

Update installed...no problems....all is well...they sky is not falling.

Did your H20-600 update by itself or did you force it per the instructions above? For some reason my 600 seems happy with 0F06.

Did you notice any tangible differences in PQ, functions, or features?

Is there a picture quality difference between the H10 and H20? I have them both, but I use the H10 because of the Tivo

I just got my owned not leased H20/600 and am in the process of setting up my at9. is this update thing going to work o.k. or am I entering into a nightmare? Too many problems! my old sony DSS sat-B2 still going strong. I'm wondering if my desire to update my technology to plasma/HD/at9 is a big mistake? :eek: my H20/600 is MFR 1/11/06 AM I IN FOR PROBLEMS? Someone say something encourging, pleaseTomcat11:

I'll try to be encouraging...

Unfortunately you are "in for problems". But along with the headaches you will also get a huge increase in your television's picture quality. When it all works. Did you make a mistake? Maybe --- especially if you thought that HD technology was already perfected and trouble-free. The change from SD to HD television is not a simple matter for you or the broadcasters. It involves any number of challenges and lots of work. It's not unlike the "growing pains" the television industry encountered when going from black and white to color technology way back in the fifties?

Only you can decide if it's a nightmare or not. Notice that there were 3371 posts in this thread before you posted yours? Read them and you will have a somewhat better idea of what you will be dealing with. For one thing, if you bother to read them, it might dispel your misconception that your H20 is "owned not leased". :eek:

Currently, HDTV isn't for the faint-hearted. You might well be wise to return your new equipment and wait for a few years? Of course, that will mean that you won't be enjoying the incredible improvement in picture quality that HD provides. :)

It's worth all the trouble in my opinion... YMMV. :D

Is there a picture quality difference between the H10 and H20? I have them both, Some people report slightly better PQ with the -600 than the -100, while others (myself included) have seen no difference at all. It could possibly depend on what monitor you're using.

Use your eyes and use the one that looks best on your main TV. Then, put the other one on a 2nd set.

Is there a picture quality difference between the H10 and H20? I have them both, but I use the H10 because of the TivoI have the impression that the H20 has superior PQ to the HR10. How much? Not sure if any... But, I sure wouldn't lose your TiVo functionality with the HR10 for a slight improvement in PQ...

What I can't wait for is the DVR version of the H20... Of course it won't be TiVo. <deep sigh> :(

I still have two DirecTiVo units but find that I'd rather put up with not using them than watching programs in SD. I've re-discovered commercial interruptions... But, whenever I need to record something while away though, I do still greatly enjoy using my TiVos!

If this were in fact a perfect world, TiVo would come out with a unit that could handle Mpeg-4. But I fear that D* won't allow that to happen now. But, hey, even a lousy HD-DVR would be better than no DVR?

Do you get local HD stations using the national feeds or Mpeg-4?

Tomcat11:

I'll try to be encouraging...

Unfortunately you are "in for problems". But along with the headaches you will also get a huge increase in your television's picture quality. When it all works. Did you make a mistake? Maybe --- especially if you thought that HD technology was already perfected and trouble-free. The change from SD to HD television is not a simple matter for you or the broadcasters. It involves any number of challenges and lots of work. It's not unlike the "growing pains" the television industry encountered when going from black and white to color technology way back in the fifties?

Only you can decide if it's a nightmare or not. Notice that there were 3371 posts in this thread before you posted yours? Read them and you will have a somewhat better idea of what you will be dealing with. For one thing, if you bother to read them, it might dispel your misconception that your H20 is "owned not leased". :eek:

Currently, HDTV isn't for the faint-hearted. You might well be wise to return your new equipment and wait for a few years? Of course, that will mean that you won't be enjoying the incredible improvement in picture quality that HD provides. :)

It's worth all the trouble in my opinion... YMMV. :D
Thank you for the concise prospective. I have read a lot of this thread and I am definateley not faint hearted. I am technically inclined and will now jump on this train and hopefully realize the benifits to be had. I completely under stand that with any new technology there is always going to be growing pains. I will post my sucesses or failures here and become part of the evolutionary process.

Thanks again.

Thank you for the concise prospective. I have read a lot of this thread and I am definateley not faint hearted. I am technically inclined and will now jump on this train and hopefully realize the benifits to be had. I completely under stand that with any new technology there is always going to be growing pains. I will post my sucesses or failures here and become part of the evolutionary process.

Thanks again.Welcome aboard TomCat! Besides, you'll still have your old (faithful) Sony sat receiver if you experience a total malfunction... :)

D* replaced my original H20-600 and since then it's worked okay. There seems to be a large amount of transmission trouble (glitches, etc) with HD, but I don't know whether it's the originating station or D* that is at fault... Or, more likely, a combination of the two? Or gremlins?

Also, you have the vast resources and help available here on the AVSforum for when you have problems. Not a guarantee of no problems -- but a tremendous help! I wouldn't want to have taken the HD plunge without all of the invaluable help I get from the friendly people here... :cool:

And by far the biggest problem (in my humble opinion) is that there just isn't enough HD being broadcast! :D I love HD!

Did your H20-600 update by itself or did you force it per the instructions above? For some reason my 600 seems happy with 0F06.

Did you notice any tangible differences in PQ, functions, or features?
Auto updated. Some improved font presentations, the speed is slightly improved on menu changess. I haven't seen more than 3 hours of viewing so far, and PQ seemed very solid (but then, had no significant problems before). My guess is that this update had a few bug fixes that are somewhat invisible to most users, and perhaps some code for future ITV functionality and perhaps RSN menu items that we won't see until DTV activates them on their end.

I have not had any problems (except the original audio flaw they fixed for Local channel HD) since day one - all upgrades automatic and without incident. My H20-600 has not ever run hot, and I have only had to reset it once in 7 months. Ironically, my old Sony receivers ran much hotter.

My experience is that the H20 is the best receiver DTV has had to date (the slightly slow menu thing is highly whined-about, but not actually that big a deal). The HD has been solid and consistent. That said, others have not been so lucky, with a few folks getting defective boxes that overheat, and now some have the H20-100 model in place (for which some have reported reduced OTA HD reception issues). All in all - the autoupdates seem to work unattended.

Look at the top lefthand side of your remote. It should say either RC23 or RC24. I was told only the RC24 is RF compatible. Hope this helps

Is there any reason why I can't get this remote to switch from IR to RF? I followed the on-screen instructions but it still does not work in RF mode.
Look at the top lefthand side of your remote. It should say either RC23 or RC24. I was told only the RC24 is RF compatible. Hope this helps

Look at the top lefthand side of your remote. It should say either RC23 or RC24. I was told only the RC24 is RF compatible. Hope this helps

I have the RC24 as well and the H20-600. The RF has never worked. :mad:

However, since it generates a heat comparable to the Sun's, there is no way I can use it unless it's sitting out in the open. :rolleyes:

I have the RC24 as well and the H20-600. The RF has never worked. :mad:

However, since it generates a heat comparable to the Sun's, there is no way I can use it unless it's sitting out in the open. :rolleyes:The Sun? :D

Why haven't you had D* replace your receiver?

Auto updated. Some improved font presentations, the speed is slightly improved on menu changess. I haven't seen more than 3 hours of viewing so far, and PQ seemed very solid (but then, had no significant problems before). My guess is that this update had a few bug fixes that are somewhat invisible to most users, and perhaps some code for future ITV functionality and perhaps RSN menu items that we won't see until DTV activates them on their end.

I have not had any problems (except the original audio flaw they fixed for Local channel HD) since day one - all upgrades automatic and without incident. My H20-600 has not ever run hot, and I have only had to reset it once in 7 months. Ironically, my old Sony receivers ran much hotter.

My experience is that the H20 is the best receiver DTV has had to date (the slightly slow menu thing is highly whined-about, but not actually that big a deal). The HD has been solid and consistent. That said, others have not been so lucky, with a few folks getting defective boxes that overheat, and now some have the H20-100 model in place (for which some have reported reduced OTA HD reception issues). All in all - the autoupdates seem to work unattended.

Curious what the MFR date is on your unit?
We might be able to correlate date codes with good or bad 600's

You don't need a preamp. You need a decent antenna. The TERK TV55 is one of the worst antennas you could use.

Check the local info thread for your area (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=453241) to find out what type of antennas work best for the channels being used in your town.


Thanks, I don't find anything on my local thread. Any suggestions?

Well, the 0F14 update last night has completely messed up my H20. I can no longer connect via my Denon 3806 using HDMI. The receiver just constantly reboots itself unless I connect it to directly to the TV. Even worse, the Channel Up/Down controls on the remote no longer work. Pressing either jus causes the screen to blank momentarily with no change in channel. I can still directly enter a channel number and go to it.

Time to call DirecTV... :mad:

Kirk, Cary, NC

They had me to a Reset Everything which has seemed to clear up the problem...

I get locals, but when it rains they go out using D*, so I still want my antenna to get the locals. Anyways, I had to call D* today to get a dish moved about 5 ft back. They wanted to charge 99.00 for that. I told them to kiss off. My condo is bitching about it being towards the front of the building. My roof is flat, and the installer mounted on the roof. He put it in the front, so people bitched about it. The supervisor told me that is why the need someone over the age of 18 to be there. I told them I was not a babysitter.

I've been reading this wonderful thread and realize that you guys are WAAAY beyond me. :) I do have a few simple questions though. What is the current schedule for the H20 DVR being released?

Secondly, is there any kind of schedule for more of DTV to be broadcasting HD?

Finally, I live about 80 miles from the San Francisco bay area and it is virtually impossible to get Over the Air reception, will HD local programing come via satellite as it does now for SD?

Thanks in advance for what may be very simple questions, but it looks like you're the people to clue me in.

Thanks,

Paul

Is anyone in the Boston market not getting audio on Chan 7? WHDH-DT. I'm getting audio from OTA 7.1 and 7.2 but not from DirecTV chan. 7 HD

I have the RC24 as well and the H20-600. The RF has never worked. :mad:

However, since it generates a heat comparable to the Sun's, there is no way I can use it unless it's sitting out in the open. :rolleyes:


I have to ask, have you connected the RF antenna to the rear of the H20? If so, and you have an RC24 then either your box/remote is defective or else it is user error. I hope it is simply that you need to attach the RF antenna that came with the H20.

I have to ask, have you connected the RF antenna to the rear of the H20? If so, and you have an RC24 then either your box/remote is defective or else it is user error. I hope it is simply that you need to attach the RF antenna that came with the H20.You're talking about the black "whip-like" stubby, flexible antenna that is about 6" long? :)

Not to be confused with an OTA antenna connection?

I have recently experienced several blackouts on my H20 receiver. The only way to regain a picture is to reset the receiver. I called Directv and they advised me to disconnect my local off air antenna as they believe this is the root cause. Any one else noticed this issue or have a better solution?

The Sun? :D

Why haven't you had D* replace your receiver?

Bought it so I'm not sure how that would work, Also, the OTA is great on it. I've heard that the H20-100 isn't as good with its OTA.

And, yes, I had set up the RF antenna.

Speaking of YES. Has anyone else lost the YES Network on 622?????

I've been reading this wonderful thread and realize that you guys are WAAAY beyond me. :) I do have a few simple questions though. What is the current schedule for the H20 DVR being released?

Secondly, is there any kind of schedule for more of DTV to be broadcasting HD?

Finally, I live about 80 miles from the San Francisco bay area and it is virtually impossible to get Over the Air reception, will HD local programing come via satellite as it does now for SD?

Thanks in advance for what may be very simple questions, but it looks like you're the people to clue me in.

Thanks,

Paul

No idea on schedule for H20 DVR. 6 months ago it was June 2006, that clearly didn't happen so who knows.

There is LOTS of HD *broadcasting*, especially in the San Francisco Bay Area. You might be *VERY* surprised what you can get 80 miles away OTA! You should check out this excellent site for more information:

http://www.choisser.com/broadcst.html

I live about 70 miles from Sutro Tower in the SF Bay Area and use a CM4228 antenna with my H20 DirecTV receiver and get beautiful HD over-the-air reception. Of course, depending on where you live exactly you may get nothing but should check on:

http://www.antennaweb.org/aw/welcome.aspx

As for HD local channels on DirecTV all the major networks are already there on DirecTV in the SF Bay Area if you use the new AT-9 5 LNB dish and the H20 DirecTV receiver. You can get Fox, NBC, ABC, and CBS local HD via MPEG-4.

Hope that helps

I have recently experienced several blackouts on my H20 receiver. The only way to regain a picture is to reset the receiver. I called Directv and they advised me to disconnect my local off air antenna as they believe this is the root cause. Any one else noticed this issue or have a better solution?
There are several causes - not knowing where you are, nor if you are current on firmware, its hard to tell. That said, here are a few potential issues that may cause your type of symptoms:

1) If one of your local HD OTA channels has the reported signal problem (which causes H20s to go whacko until they fix it), this may send your unit into a perpetual reboot mode. The only way to get out of that is to change channels quickly when it first comes up, and remove that channel from your guide. If it is always the same channel you're on when it happens, you'll know the culprit and may want to report it to the local station.

2) There have been 2 firmware updates since the release of the H20 - 1 was 2/14/06 and the latest just the other day 7/11/06. The date of your latest firmware is on the menu's main info screen...you'll need to scroll down a bit on the menu to see that version and date. If you don't have the first one downloaded....all bets are of on how the H20 will perform. There are other posts here that tell you how to force an update to the H20 - you might try that if yours is not current.

3) You have a bad receiver, and should get DTV to replace it. You would not be the first person to get a bad one out of the box. I was fortunate and had none of the issues (reboots or heat problems) that some have reported here.

No idea on schedule for H20 DVR. 6 months ago it was June 2006, that clearly didn't happen so who knows.Well, it's really no big deal? I've only been waiting for 137-days, 7-hours and 38-minutes for that DVR... Or, another way to look at it, I have been doing without a DVR for a little less than 3,296-hours or 79,118-minutes.

But who's counting? :eek:

Well, it's really no big deal? I've only been waiting for 137-days, 7-hours and 38-minutes for that DVR... Or, another way to look at it, I have been doing without a DVR for a little less than 3,296-hours or 79,118-minutes.

But who's counting? :eek:
LOL :cool:

The way I see it, if the new HD DVR has a good GUI (OK, its not TIVO, but I've never been that excited about their GUI either), and also has the 5th generation tuners in them, the new units should be a nice step up from the H10-250, not to mention the MPEG4 support.

I was lost, but now I'm back...this had what to do with the H20????

returning back to reality and the H20 discussions..... :eek:

Bought it so I'm not sure how that would work, Also, the OTA is great on it. I've heard that the H20-100 isn't as good with its OTA. And, yes, I had set up the RF antenna. Speaking of YES. Has anyone else lost the YES Network on 622?????Joe,

NO, I haven't lost YES yet.

If the -600's OTA tuner does perform better, which many people report --- the difference compared to the -100 doesn't seem to be tremendous... More like, you might lose a station on the fringe by switching from the -600 to the -100. Or, you might not?

If you do replace your current (defective) H20 receiver, it's not definite that you will get a -100 instead of a -600 model. In fact, from the way it sounds, you're likely to get a -600 and maybe a refurbished -600 at that? It seems to me that if your H20 is defective you'd want to replace it, if possible.

Which brings us to the question of whether or not D* will replace your "owned" receiver. There's no harm in asking D*... I think that it is in there best interests to treat you well. If you're lucky --- they might even change your status from "owned" to "leased". Some people have the opinion that owning their receiver is advantageous. Personally, I disagree. Leasing is preferable, if for no other reason than the situation you are in. A defective receiver is NOT a good thing...

So, if I were you, I would call D*. I'll wager that they will be accomodating. And, maybe the replacement unit will be a -600 to boot. Or, on the other hand, if the dysfunctional RF remote isn't that important to you maybe you'd just rather not be hassled? You make the call. :)

Just curious if anyone has any ideas about what the USB port on the H20 might possibly be used for? The manual states: "For future services and accessories. Additional hardware may be required."

While I'm being curious, what's the liklihood that the H20 wil do interactive functions?

While I'm being curious, what's the liklihood that the H20 wil do interactive functions?
That's definitely in their plans, and they have said so publically a number of times. Murdoch himself has been quoted saying interactive TV is part of the DTV strategy.

Look for more H20 firmware updates to support enhancements in that area (including certain remote buttons being activated /changed for this purpose). Heck, the latest update 7/11 may have added some things that are hidden in that update for this purpose, but not active until DTV turns them on at their end.

Joe,

NO, I haven't lost YES yet.

So, if I were you, I would call D*. I'll wager that they will be accomodating. And, maybe the replacement unit will be a -600 to boot. Or, on the other hand, if the dysfunctional RF remote isn't that important to you maybe you'd just rather not be hassled? You make the call. :)

1) YES is back today, but not until I unplugged and reset the receiver.

2) Do you (or anyone else) know if D*TV send the replacement box to the "service address" or the "billing address"?

Thanks.

1) YES is back today, but not until I unplugged and reset the receiver.

2) Do you (or anyone else) know if D*TV send the replacement box to the "service address" or the "billing address"?

Thanks.This morning, all of my guide info showed "Regular Programing" instead of what was actually on each channel. I reset my H20 and the guide info returned. But, I didn't check YES until after the reset --- maybe channel 622 wasn't working for me either?

When D* shipped my replacement receiver they sent it to my service address. But, that MIGHT have something to do with the fact that my billing address is a Post Office Box. I'm not sure if D* will ship to the billing address. But I think a previous message stated that someone had their replacement unit sent to their billing address?

How many lines can you run off of the new 5 LNB dishes without using a splitter?

four lines from the 5 LNB

1) YES is back today, but not until I unplugged and reset the receiver.

2) Do you (or anyone else) know if D*TV send the replacement box to the "service address" or the "billing address"?
A reset either by unplugging or hitting the red reset button by the access card will often fix "missing" old or newly added channels.

Replacement access cards or equipment should be sent FedEx to your mailing address. If your mailing address is a PO Box, it would likely go to your "service address". You may be able to specify which address to send equipment to.

Thanks

To upgrade the software of the H20 follow these instructions.

1. Push and release the red reset button next to card.
2. When the "Hello" screen appears enter 0 2 4 6 8
That is it, the screen on your TV will go blank for a couple of seconds and then a
new screen will come up saying the reciever is upgrading and a bar will show the progress. It takes appox. 10 min. Thats it.

The upgrade I mention above is actually a different upgrade than the firmware upgrade that some have received and all others are to receive on the 19th of July. I could not get a clear answer to which does what but I like to stay up to date so I did the above upgrade with no consequence.

Hi all! I have the 600 with the new 7/11 upgrade. Try this and tell me what happens. While watching local market HD press the yellow button. When I do I loose the audio and the picture kinda distorts. Press it again and audio is restored picture distorts and all is ok. I tried it on same stations OTA and nothing happens. I tried it on HBO (70) and nothing happened. Seems only on Local market HD feeds. The mysterious yellow button. :) I dont if it did anything prior to upgrade.

The upgrade I mention above is actually a different upgrade than the firmware upgrade that some have received and all others are to receive on the 19th of July. I could not get a clear answer to which does what but I like to stay up to date so I did the above upgrade with no consequence.


I have not plugged in my new H20 yet. One would assume (ya you know what that means!) that if it's anything like computer software the latest update would supercede or include the important functions of earlier software. So the question is which is probably uncertain, should I fire it up before the 19th or after the 19th? or will it even matter? Maybe just the latest install is the way to go.

Tomcat11

I have not plugged in my new H20 yet. One would assume (ya you know what that means!) that if it's anything like computer software the latest update would supercede or include the important functions of earlier software. So the question is which is probably uncertain, should I fire it up before the 19th or after the 19th? or will it even matter? Maybe just the latest install is the way to go.

Tomcat11


Dish H20 units are shipped with a base raw firmware that upgrades first time you plug it in.

It's not fully operational until the intial firmware download.

If memory serve correctly (which it might not in this case) neither 99W or 103W has any transponders activated until you receive the first firmware update.

Of course, the latest update shut the 99W bird back down again.

Anyone know what the H20's IR modulation frequency is?

35khz? 40khz? 50khz? 65khz?

Trying to figure out why my whole-house audio system won't turn it off/on via IR emitter. Everything else works fine.

Thanks!

Note to H20 owners: all this talk about firmware updates relates ONLY to the H20-600 (the version produced by LG). The H20-100 (produced by RCA) STILL has not had any firmware updates -- although, honestly, it works pretty well and hasn't really needed them.

I have not plugged in my new H20 yet. ... should I fire it up before the 19th or after the 19th? or will it even matter?
Won't matter. If there is a firmware update for your model receiver, it will be downloaded automatically when it becomes available, and you have no say-so in the download.

Exceptions are certain D* receivers that can disable auto-updates via the service menu.

There are several causes - not knowing where you are, nor if you are current on firmware, its hard to tell. That said, here are a few potential issues that may cause your type of symptoms:

1) If one of your local HD OTA channels has the reported signal problem (which causes H20s to go whacko until they fix it), this may send your unit into a perpetual reboot mode. The only way to get out of that is to change channels quickly when it first comes up, and remove that channel from your guide. If it is always the same channel you're on when it happens, you'll know the culprit and may want to report it to the local station.

I have a similar problem here in Columbia, MO. My H20-600 definitely goes into said perpetual reboot when tuning to channel. This problem just started today. It occurs when tuning to channel 17-2 (RF 22). I have no such problems with ANY of the other digital OTA channels, including 17-1, 17-3, and 17-4. Again, this only started today.

Software
Original Ver: 000A
Past Upgrade: 0F06, Wed 6/21 at 5:58p
Future Upgrade: Not Scheduled.

Is it really the local station? Any suggestions for a next step? Thanks.

I have a similar problem here in Columbia, MO. My H20-600 definitely goes into said perpetual reboot when tuning to channel. This problem just started today. It occurs when tuning to channel 17-2 (RF 22). I have no such problems with ANY of the other digital OTA channels, including 17-1, 17-3, and 17-4. Again, this only started today.

Software
Original Ver: 000A
Past Upgrade: 0F06, Wed 6/21 at 5:58p
Future Upgrade: Not Scheduled.

Is it really the local station? Any suggestions for a next step? Thanks.
There is another firmware update that was done during the past week or so - check back earlier in this thread on that.

Try a full reboot to see if the update loads, and also to see if the problem corrects itself. If not...

Your problem has to do with some code that is sent out in the local OTA transmission which cause OTA reception to go a bit haywire. First, contact the local station and let the engineering area know about the problem. Next, remove the channel from your guide until the problem is fixed - or else you'll end up in prepetual reboot mode. once fixed, you can add it back in and them problem should go away.

Tuba, I live in Jefferson City and had the exact problem with that same channel today. It kept resetting my box (during the Cardinal game, of all the bad timing) and I had a hell of a time ever getting it to stop. I just read Satmeister's earlier post about punching in another channel, but mine would never give me the chance-as soon as the receiver was done resetting, it would immediately start all over again. Finally figured out that if I cancelled the reset as it was downloading, the screen would go kinda blank, with a message that my system was not operational, or something like that. I punched in another local channel, which at least got me off 17-2, and then reset again. That time, everything worked fine.

I called Direct, whose only advice was to disconnect OTA, which is bull____ as far as I'm concerned. Their receiver should not be subject to this kind of problem, regardless of whether some local digital "glitch" triggers it or not. Direct clearly has this problem come up quite a bit, as they have a "tech" guide already written up on it-DBSTalk has some threads about this same issue as well-so it's not all that unusual.

If I was paranoid, I might think that Direct was not really into fixing this problem so they could sell more local channel packages. Hey, come to think of it........

Direct clearly has this problem come up quite a bit, as they have a "tech" guide already written up on it-DBSTalk has some threads about this same issue as well-so it's not all that unusual.

If I was paranoid, I might think that Direct was not really into fixing this problem so they could sell more local channel packages. Hey, come to think of it........
Other than deleting the culprit channel from the guide, there's not much you can do until the station fixes the transmission problem on their end. DirecTV cannot fix the problem.

Tuba, I live in Jefferson City and had the exact problem with that same channel today. It kept resetting my box (during the Cardinal game, of all the bad timing) and I had a hell of a time ever getting it to stop....
nrbellj, Tuba,
You should both contact KMIZ's chief engineer at:
http://www.kmiz.com/contact/ <Scroll to the bottom of that page.
Explain the problem to him/her, and that it only happens when you tune to their channel.

PSIP (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PSIP) (Program & System Infomation Protocol) provides the channel and program info in the OTA guide. If the data is corrupt or not ATSC standards-compliant, it can cause all sorts of problems, including no picture, no sound, or in the case of the H20-600, it can crash your receiver. Ask the CE if they've made any recent changes to PSIP data stream.

In the mean time:
Disconnect your OTA antenna.
Reboot the receiver.
Remove KMIZ-DT from your channel lists.
Reconnect the antenna.

Also, it won't hurt to complain to DirecTV's Customer Retention specialists at 800 824-9081
Ask for compensation for a receiver that isn't fully working.

Hey guys -

I have had an H20 in the master bedroom for about 3 months or so. Everything was working fine up until a few days ago. For some reason, the channel up and channel down buttons do not change the channel up or down - it stays on the current channel. Additionally, when I push the blue button for upcoming programming, there is zero information - just a black bar at the bottom where the info should be, and I can't scroll back and forth to different times.

I have tried several things, including unplugging the unit for ~ 1 minute and plugging it back in. I have also downloaded the new software version as described earlier in this thread. But no luck, same problem. :o

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Matt

I talk to the DirecTV's Customer Retention specialists at 800 824-9081 this morning and this is what I got from them.
" We are aware the problem and are working on a fix, if you want a replacement receiver you have to pay for it even you have protection with us."
Wow. What can I say.
Sam

Hey guys -

I have had an H20 in the master bedroom for about 3 months or so. Everything was working fine up until a few days ago. For some reason, the channel up and channel down buttons do not change the channel up or down - it stays on the current channel. Additionally, when I push the blue button for upcoming programming, there is zero information - just a black bar at the bottom where the info should be, and I can't scroll back and forth to different times.

I have tried several things, including unplugging the unit for ~ 1 minute and plugging it back in. I have also downloaded the new software version as described earlier in this thread. But no luck, same problem. :o

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Matt


Did this happen PRIOR to the new firmware?

nrbellj, Tuba,
You should both contact KMIZ's chief engineer at:
http://www.kmiz.com/contact/ <Scroll to the bottom of that page.
Explain the problem to him/her, and that it only happens when you tune to their channel.

PSIP (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PSIP) (Program & System Infomation Protocol) provides the channel and program info in the OTA guide. If the data is corrupt or not ATSC standards-compliant, it can cause all sorts of problems, including no picture, no sound, or in the case of the H20-600, it can crash your receiver. Ask the CE if they've made any recent changes to PSIP data stream.

In the mean time:
Disconnect your OTA antenna.
Reboot the receiver.
Remove KMIZ-DT from your channel lists.
Reconnect the antenna.

Also, it won't hurt to complain to DirecTV's Customer Retention specialists at 800 824-9081
Ask for compensation for a receiver that isn't fully working.

PBS started doing something 2 years ago to the PSIP data info. In fact, all stations were moving towards it. I don't remember the details but all the sudden this is all sounding very familar.

Try searching the MyHD120 thread (the 130 wasn't out 2 years ago) for PBS or KQED.

Edit - start here - or several pages back and move forward. Don't expect a solution on 1 page though - and isn't it interesting how kansas came up there as well.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=3886905&&#post3886905

Did this happen PRIOR to the new firmware?

Yes, both before and after the update. I was hoping the new firmware would fix it.

HDTVFanAtic,
It's not just PBS. I had the reboot problem several months ago when tuning to our local ABC affiliate. They had made PSIP changes that caused my H20-600 to reboot. The station eventually fixed the problem.

FWIW, I no longer have an H20-600 (which I owned, not leased). It was replaced with a H20-100 by D* customer retention at no charge.

As was stated in the MyHD thread, what PBS was doing was going to be used by PBS AND non-PBS stations. I am thinking this has to be related....and thus far its the best explanation at this time of a POSSIBILITY of what is going on.

nrbellj, Tuba,
You should both contact KMIZ's chief engineer at:
Explain the problem to him/her, and that it only happens when you tune to their channel.

(Program & System Infomation Protocol) provides the channel and program info in the OTA guide. If the data is corrupt or not ATSC standards-compliant, it can cause all sorts of problems, including no picture, no sound, or in the case of the H20-600, it can crash your receiver. Ask the CE if they've made any recent changes to PSIP data stream.

In the mean time:
Disconnect your OTA antenna.
Reboot the receiver.
Remove KMIZ-DT from your channel lists.
Reconnect the antenna.



Also, it won't hurt to complain to DirecTV's Customer Retention specialists at 800 824-9081
Ask for compensation for a receiver that isn't fully working.





I emailed the station engineer after talking with Direct yesterday. Since they're laying the problem directly on KMIZ, I'll be curious what the station's response will be. Haven't heard back from them yet, but once I do, I'll post the response here. May give some insight to others as to how to get this fixed.

I'm getting two H20s on thursday ond currently get PBS OTA. Should a request a 100 model? I thought the 600 was though to be the better of the two?

I'm getting two H20s on thursday ond currently get PBS OTA. Should a request a 100 model? I thought the 600 was though to be the better of the two?I've read posts from numerous people reporting that the -600 has a slightly better OTA tuner also. But, I believe that the only way to be sure to get a model -600 is if you get them in a brick & morter store. The particular model number of the receiver is printed somewhere on the outside of the box. But, if you're ordering the receiver directly drom D* --- then you get what they send you. D* does not take requests for a particular model. In fact if you ask for a H20-600 the CSR possibly won't even know what you're talking about.

How do you currently get your OTA? Will you not continue to use that tuner after you get the H20 receivers?

And, is the PBS station you are concerned about in a fringe area? (Is it currently difficult to pull the signal in?) If not, you probably don't need to be too concerned --- I don't believe there's a huge difference between the -600 and the -100 models.

I'm getting two H20s on thursday ond currently get PBS OTA. Should a request a 100 model? I thought the 600 was though to be the better of the two?

The 100 and the 600 have quirks that make them unique. The 100 runs cooler, has a faster UI, and has a caller ID that works consistently for everyone. The 600 runs very hot, has slightly better OTA senstivity than the 100, and has slightly better SD PQ.

After trying three 100s and three 600s I currently own the 600. I traded coolness, Caller ID, and a fast UI for slightly better SD PQ and OTA reception. It's the subscriber's choice. With the D* liberal return policy for the H20 the good news is that we have a choice.

I'm just now checking into this, as a new H20 owner, but this sounds just like what happened probably 2-3 years ago with the SIR-TS160 before Samsung updated the firmware. Its absolutely ridiculous they still don't know how to keep these boxes from rebooting from bad data.

I called Direct, whose only advice was to disconnect OTA, which is bull____ as far as I'm concerned. Their receiver should not be subject to this kind of problem, regardless of whether some local digital "glitch" triggers it or not. Direct clearly has this problem come up quite a bit, as they have a "tech" guide already written up on it-DBSTalk has some threads about this same issue as well-so it's not all that unusual.

"...Its absolutely ridiculous they still don't know how to keep these boxes from rebooting from bad data."Seems to me that stations which send "bad data" are absolutely ridiculous. As does expecting equipment to always work with bad data?

My car's engine doesn't run so great on water-downed gasoline... I know because I added water to it when the price exceeded $3.00 a gallon. :eek:

Is that the automaker's fault too? :D

Anyone know what the H20's IR modulation frequency is?

35khz? 40khz? 50khz? 65khz?

Trying to figure out why my whole-house audio system won't turn it off/on via IR emitter. Everything else works fine.

Thanks!

Anyone? Anyone?

Anyone? Anyone?Not me. Not me. ;)

... Its absolutely ridiculous they still don't know how to keep these boxes from rebooting from bad data.

Web site designers are supposed to follow W3C standards (http://www.w3.org/Consortium/) when designing web pages. OTA broadcasters have ATSC standards (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Program_and_System_Information_Protocol) they also must follow when broadcasting PSIP data. When standards are not adhered to, the result may be a crashed computer, browser or digital TV tuner. The fault is with the web site author or the TV station, not your computer, web browser or TV STB.

It's nice when a box ignores certain data that is non-standard. But it's hard enough to make boxes that work with data that is ATSC-compliant. And when a station suddenly makes non-standard PSIP changes, STB makers have no way of knowing what a station has done or how to test for problems.

Can anyone give details as to what did the new firmware in the 600 give us?

Hey guys, i've tried searching and can't find concrete answers, so apologies if these questions seem silly:

1) those of you who have the H20, did you notice a big difference in quality on your HD locals in MP4 vs. getting them OTA? any difference?
2) *should* directv come and install the AT9 and H20 for you for free (or free after $99 rebate), or is this only if you mention some kind of offer, is it only if you have 5 hearts, is it only for new customers, do you have to do CSR roulette (or retention roulette)?
3) the 'free' H20 thing i've been reading about, is it a swap? Because I want to keep my H10-250 to record shows off OTA and off MPEG2 HD, but would also like the H20 to get the spotbeamed sports here in texas and the (hopefully) improved quality MPEG4 locals.

Thanks!!

3) the 'free' H20 thing i've been reading about, is it a swap?
No.

If you can talk them into "free", you keep your old receiver that you own, and will lease an H20 from D*. They maintain the box and there is no additional monthly cost vs owning a box. Only difference is if you cancel service, you have to return the H20 to D* or be billed several hundred dollars for it. No sense keeping an H20 without a D* sub., because the OTA part stops working if you disconnect D* service.

Hey guys -

I have had an H20 in the master bedroom for about 3 months or so. Everything was working fine up until a few days ago. For some reason, the channel up and channel down buttons do not change the channel up or down - it stays on the current channel. Additionally, when I push the blue button for upcoming programming, there is zero information - just a black bar at the bottom where the info should be, and I can't scroll back and forth to different times.

I have tried several things, including unplugging the unit for ~ 1 minute and plugging it back in. I have also downloaded the new software version as described earlier in this thread. But no luck, same problem. :o

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Matt

FYI, nevermind on this, I somehow sitched over to a different Favorites list than usual (no channels were selected in "Custom 1").

:o

Hey guys, i've tried searching and can't find concrete answers, so apologies if these questions seem silly:

1) those of you who have the H20, did you notice a big difference in quality on your HD locals in MP4 vs. getting them OTA? any difference?

...snip...



Absolutely.....positively.....without a doubt......yes.

HD locals in MP4 = lip synch issues
HD locals in MP4 = noticable visual issues during movement onscreen. I'm not talking during sports, I'm talking during Letterman when he moves his hand.

HD locals OTA = no lip synch issues
HD locals OTA = no noticable visual issues during movement at least at my 42" size.

I was going to give my antenna back to my friend (it's borrowed) once I got the MP4 locals. I have since decided that I have to keep it and have thus offered to buy it. I have reported the problem with the lip synch to D* and they claim to know about it and that they are working on it. As for the visual issue, I only got the standard BS response explaining how 1080i is good for X and 720p is good for Y when viewing HD TV. I never pushed it up further. Can anyone in here confirm that they are aware of the visual issues? I have no issues with non-HD local MP4 channels BTW.

Snewo

I I have no issues with non-HD local MP4 channels BTW.

Snewo


I have no problem with my D* MPEG4 HD DVR either.


Maybe because there are no non-HD local HD MP4 channels and no D* MPEG4 HD DVR?

HD locals in MP4 = lip synch issues
HD locals in MP4 = noticable visual issues during movement onscreen. I'm not talking during sports, I'm talking during Letterman when he moves his hand.
HD locals OTA = no lip synch issues
HD locals OTA = no noticable visual issues during movement at least at my 42" size.

I have reported the problem with the lip synch to D* and they claim to know about it and that they are working on it. As for the visual issue, I only got the standard BS response explaining how 1080i is good for X and 720p is good for Y when viewing HD TV. I never pushed it up further. Can anyone in here confirm that they are aware of the visual issues? I have no issues with non-HD local MP4 channels BTW.
Snewo,

You lost me there when you said: "VISUAL ISSUES".

What do you mean? What issues?

I frequently have glitches/short freezes, audio drop-outs, pixelization and total loss of picture with Mpeg-4 (locals), with standard satellite reception and with OTA (using my H20-100 receiver). Luckily, no detectable lip-sync issues up to now. I don't know exactly why I am experiencing these "issues". Maybe a mis-aligned dish or a faulty receiver, weak OTA signals or some combination of these and other unknown problems?

These "issues" that I'm experiencing generally do not occur when I use either one of my Series1 DirecTiVo receivers. Of course, those receivers do NOT utilize either Mpeg-4 or an OTA HD tuner. Which leads me to believe that there is a strong possibility that MY basic problem involves Mpeg-4 and weak OTA signals. I don't blame D* at all for my weak OTA reception. From everything I've read --- the H20 has a very good OTA HD tuner. But, as far as Mpeg-4 goes, I would give it a "D" grade.

But actually, the fact is that satellite TV reception has never been what I would call perfect. What is perfect? Nothing? And, it seems to me a bit unrealistic to expect it to be perfect. So, at what point do I throw in the D* towel? Is throwing in the towel even an option. I bought a new plasma screen TV. It would be a real shame not to be able to view HD programming. And, I really don't want two series1 DirecTiVo receivers for doorstops... And, cable TV sounds at least as bad as D* service --- especially in my area.

When it does work though, the picture quality is superb, amazing, and breath-taking...

The answer seems to be for me to stop my bitching and suffer quietly... Any other ideas? :)

I have a couple of questions about the recent firmware updates that have been discussed here. I have both a -100 and a -600 model of the H20. Neither of my units automatically got an update recently. I did the update force (reset 0,2,4,6,8) on both units. The -600 went out and got an update. The -100 tried, after about ten minutes of scrolling numbers in the upper left of the screen, it stopped and indicated that there had been an error in downloading the update.

So I have two questions. First, what triggers the unit to look for an update. In the past my D* STB have always automatically got updates within a day or two of them being available. Neither of the current boxes had got one that was out there a couple of weeks after it was there.

The second question is whether the -100 has had an update made available recently, or if the latest firmware was only for the -600? In other words, should I try to force the update again on my -100 box??

Phil P.

THanks for your help guys. I was able to set up the installation and it will be 'free', they didn't even mention anything about a $99 rebate, just $19.95 handling fee (?). I have 5 hearts on my account. Just FYI if anybody else is thinking of doing the same. I'm curious to see how the HD locals look, and the spotbeamed FSNSW rangers games here in DAllas.

Well my second H20 died today. Called tec support, they are going to over night me a replacement and no charge just like before. This will be my 3rd H20 in 6 months. I am having terrible luck with the H20s.

Well my second H20 died today. Called tec support, they are going to over night me a replacement and no charge just like before. This will be my 3rd H20 in 6 months...
Are they H20-600s or H20-100s?

... should I try to force the update again on my -100 box??
I received an update on 7/3/06 on my -100. However, I have noticed absolutely no difference in performance in any way. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Here's a post from someone at RCA that helped build the H20-100 recommending that you do not try to force an update:
LINK (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7689244&&#post7689244)

Are they H20-600s or H20-100s?


One 100 and one 600. I'll let you know what I get tomorrow. I like the PQ of the H20s but they just don't last that long for me. If this one has a short life I'm going to just send it back and get one of my old Sonys out and use it. I have three D* stbs running and only the H20s die. I can get my local hd ota so I don't need D*s lil. When I had a 600, the atsc tuner would not work so I used the atsc tuner on my panny plasma. I read a while back that a guy was on his 5th H20, not me, a 3rd one is enough.

I was sent an H20 as replacement for a broken H10 in Feb this year. Recently the component outputs failed so they sent me a new one (a 100, first one was a 600). The 100 lasted long enough to boot up and get activated... but froze up while I was activating it on the phone with tech support. No lights, wouldn't reboot, etc. Next replacement was a 600 which fixed the component issue, but like the first 600 it runs WAY HOT as others here have noted.

Now two weeks later, it has started the "rebooting for no reason" problem others have seen. Each time it does this it loses the "favorite channel" programming, but seems to remember other settings (video, TV shape, audio preferences).

Can't wait to see what D*will say! Probably, "unplug the unit and wait 30 seconds!"

Snewo,

You lost me there when you said: "VISUAL ISSUES".

What do you mean? What issues?

I frequently have glitches/short freezes, audio drop-outs, pixelization and total loss of picture with Mpeg-4 (locals), with standard satellite reception and with OTA (using my H20-100 receiver). Luckily, no detectable lip-sync issues up to now. I don't know exactly why I am experiencing these "issues". Maybe a mis-aligned dish or a faulty receiver, weak OTA signals or some combination of these and other unknown problems?

...snip...




I suppose my complaints do deserve a better description. I am not talking about pixelization, audio drop-outs, glitches/short freezes, or loss of picture. And even though I'm new to this whole D* thing, I really do think I know what each of those is.

What I'm talking about appears to be an MPEG4 issue to my untrained and unexpert eye. Let's say I'm watching Letterman. (I use that example to stress this isn't fast motion images like football or hockey). On a waist up shot if he were to move his hand from his lap to his head the action is not smooth. There is no pixelization, yet if anyone was to focus on the motion it is a very obvious choppiness and jumpiness only in the areas of the movement (how's that for technical jargon). I first noticed this when watching NHL hockey when players appeared to be in slow motion a bit, but it is absolutely obvious at any time now. I'm not really a videophile (obviously) so I don't think this is a user being too anal. I can watch everything on D* in both SD and HD and be happy....except for the local HD channels.

Since I plan on getting the MP4 HD DVR when it's released, I plan on just re-evaluating things with that unit when/if it ever arrives. I can't remember if this happened with my H20-600 but I know it's happening with my H20-100.

Wow, it's really hard to describe this. Can anyone think of a setting I might have configured wrong that could cause this? Maybe it's just me.


Snewo

I was sent an H20 as replacement for a broken H10 in Feb this year. Recently the component outputs failed so they sent me a new one (a 100, first one was a 600). The 100 lasted long enough to boot up and get activated... but froze up while I was activating it on the phone with tech support. No lights, wouldn't reboot, etc. Next replacement was a 600 which fixed the component issue, but like the first 600 it runs WAY HOT as others here have noted.

Now two weeks later, it has started the "rebooting for no reason" problem others have seen. Each time it does this it loses the "favorite channel" programming, but seems to remember other settings (video, TV shape, audio preferences).

Can't wait to see what D*will say! Probably, "unplug the unit and wait 30 seconds!"

Get it replaced in the warranty period... I got a new H20-600 in January, worked great for 2 months, then started rebooting every couple weeks, then every few days, then a couple times a day, then all the time... eventually died completely and was 6 months old by that time so they wouldn't replace it for free. (I had to pay S/H and agree to 2 more years of service, fortunately I had done a 2 year agreement 9 days before because of a move so it basically came out to free.)

Now I have a refurbed H20-600 that just arrived today and it takes about 10 seconds to change channels and the RF remote refuses to work... guess I get to sit on tech support line again tomorrow... weee!

Snewo,

I can second your observations about MPEG4. Im in Miami (33178) and my MPEG2 channels look good. However the HD LIL and RSN are choppy at best. Still images look good but anything with movement is distracting to the eye. Someone earlier compared it to a wrong refresh rate on a computer monitor. I do see it even watching the news.

The example I give to explain it was during World Cup play. ABC's coverage had the grass field "re-rendering" itself every second or so. It would appear different than before, almost like it was dancing and changing colors. It was really distracting to watch. The same coverage on OTA and even ESPN did not have this motion.

I hope they are aware of it and plan on improving this in the near future. Here's a link to the thread on D* forum.

http://forums.directv.com/pe/action/forums/displaysinglethread?rootPostID=10150573

Does the H-20 support SAP? I was watching a Spanish soccer match and I realized that they had an English broadcast via SAP, which would be great since I don’t speak Spanish.

If so how do you work it, I cant find any info. Thanks.

I just got a free upgrade to a 5-LNB dish and a H20-100, and at first I didn't see the pixelation problem others have reported. Now I do and it seems to be quite often. Like others it's not a big concern at present, as I still can get these channels via an OTA antenna. What happens though when DTV finally starts adding the other channels in MPEG4 HD. If this problem isn't resolved, I think this tolerance for it will wear thin with it's customers pretty quickly. This problem needs to be resolved before they even attempt to add additional channels.

Also my reciever hasn't downloaded any updates, nor are any scheduled. Could someone verify I have the most current version. It says my Original version is 003E 020E B00000113. It is a H20-100

Thank You

Tom

Snewo,

I can second your observations about MPEG4. Im in Miami (33178) and my MPEG2 channels look good. However the HD LIL and RSN are choppy at best. Still images look good but anything with movement is distracting to the eye. Someone earlier compared it to a wrong refresh rate on a computer monitor. I do see it even watching the news.

The example I give to explain it was during World Cup play. ABC's coverage had the grass field "re-rendering" itself every second or so. It would appear different than before, almost like it was dancing and changing colors. It was really distracting to watch. The same coverage on OTA and even ESPN did not have this motion.

I hope they are aware of it and plan on improving this in the near future. Here's a link to the thread on D* forum.

http://forums.directv.com/pe/action/forums/displaysinglethread?rootPostID=10150573

Thanks snipes. It's nice to know I'm not crazy. You explained it better than me. It makes me think....

- Is it a H20-100 thing only?
- Is it only a problem in markets where they have known lip synch issues?
- Does anyone at D* even acknowledge this? They do acknowledge the lip synch thing.


Snewo

I just got a free upgrade to a 5-LNB dish and a H20-100, and at first I didn't see the pixelation problem others have reported. Now I do and it seems to be quite often. Like others it's not a big concern at present, as I still can get these channels via an OTA antenna. What happens though when DTV finally starts adding the other channels in MPEG4 HD. If this problem isn't resolved, I think this tolerance for it will wear thin with it's customers pretty quickly. This problem needs to be resolved before they even attempt to add additional channels.

Also my reciever hasn't downloaded any updates, nor are any scheduled. Could someone verify I have the most current version. It says my Original version is 003E 020E B00000113. It is a H20-100

Thank You

Tom

Tom, I am also at the same versions with my H20-100. No scheduled upgrades.


Snewo

Thanks Snewo! I appreciate it!

I think I found a new problem with the H20! I have it connected to my Mittsubishi XD300U projector along with my projector. Since installation of the H20 I've started having a problem on the computer where Pipe symbols (|) endlessly repeats itself which starts about 15-20 minutes after boot. I traced the problem to the USB interface on the projector which allows you to control the mouse via the projector's remote. Disconnected it and the problem stopped, reconnected it and problem returned. Disconnected the component cables from the H20 to the projector and I haven't had the problem since. The only thing I could surmise is the H20 is feeding residue data to the projector which it don't like, and some how corrupting the data sent to the computer through it's mouse interface. I think I'm going to move the H20 into my other room and put back my Samsung unit here.

Does the H-20 support SAP? I was watching a Spanish soccer match and I realized that they had an English broadcast via SAP, which would be great since I don’t speak Spanish.

If so how do you work it, I cant find any info. Thanks.

Try the yellow button. I was watching NESN and pressed it. Wow Spanish.

"...Like others it's not a big concern at present, as I still can get these channels via an OTA antenna..."Speak for yourself. :D

My OTA reception is just strong enough to tease me with how much better the picture CAN look. If anything, the OTA reception is slighty more erratic than the Mpeg-4. So, speaking for myself, local HD (both OTA & Mpeg-4) is "almost" unwatchable. For example, if you are watching Jeopardy and they are getting ready to answer a question --- don't get upset when the picture freezes or the audio drops out (or both) for 10-seconds...

The pixelation I am seeing only occurs often enough to be highly irritating. At other times the picture quality is OutStanding. Which is where I find myself. Out, standing in the yard and looking up at the satellites --- wondering why Mpeg-4 reception is so poor.

The lousy OTA reception, at least, can be blamed on the tall trees that are blocking just enough of my OTA's signal to wreak fury upon my picture. :)

There's no doubt in my mind, that if I could receive acceptable OTA signal strength --- I would Deep-6 the Mpeg-4 in a second. My problem is that a 100' tower costs a wee fortune to buy and install. Although, it would be a lot of fun to decorate a tall tower at ChristmasTime...

As you noted, the quality of Mpeg-4 transmission quality needs to be improved - NOW. Using a boat analogy: That Ship Don't Float...

So, this might explain the long delay in getting a Mpeg-4 DVR? Maybe D* simply doesn't want to have people recording the lousy quality transmissions for posterity...

The real Catch-22 with Mpeg-4 is that, switching from D* to cable to get away from Mpeg-4 has its own associated set of nasties. (Cable sucks too?) So, it seems, I don't really have any viable options at this time. It sure would be great if the Verizon folks would install FIOS in my area. Does anyone know if the HD quality over FIOS is worth a "darn"?

Speaking for myself, that is... :D

Speak for yourself. :D

My OTA reception is just strong enough to tease me with how much better the picture CAN look. If anything, the OTA reception is slighty more erratic than the Mpeg-4. So, speaking for myself, local HD (both OTA & Mpeg-4) is "almost" unwatchable. For example, if you are watching Jeopardy and they are getting ready to answer a question --- don't get upset when the picture freezes or the audio drops out (or both) for 10-seconds...

The pixelation I am seeing only occurs often enough to be highly irritating. At other times the picture quality is OutStanding. Which is where I find myself. Out, standing in the yard and looking up at the satellites --- wondering why Mpeg-4 reception is so poor.

The lousy OTA reception, at least, can be blamed on the tall trees that are blocking just enough of my OTA's signal to wreak fury upon my picture. :) ....

:D

Point taken, I guess I should have qualified that by saying those with good OTA reception. I'm lucky enough to live in a flat portion of the country (FL) so I'm able to get good OTA reception with all channels but NBC just using an internal powered, Samsung antenna. I currently get NBC in HD via the NY feed (Also LA in SD) I assume though I may lose them though at some point since I now get my local HD directly. So far though I still have them.

I see the same problem of jerky motion on the Mpeg4 stations noted by snewo above. Switching between NBC NY feed and Miami NBC Mpeg4 feed during the Tonight show last night clearly shows the difference. This needs to be addressed by D* or they will not be able to hold on to subs. There are too many better alternatives and loyalty only goes so far. NFL ST is a draw, but not enough by itself. I think that this problem is an artifact of the codecs and can probably be fixed. A campaign by the (now growing) observers of this phenomenon to D* to be sure they are aware of it is probably a good idea... I'm dialing right now!

Iv'e been watching Fox for the past few hours and I have a absolutely perfect picture without the pixelation I see on CBS, NBC, and ABC. Is it possible the problem is at the source and not the MPEG4 conversion?

Well my second H20 died today. Called tec support, they are going to over night me a replacement and no charge just like before. This will be my 3rd H20 in 6 months. I am having terrible luck with the H20s.

update:
Got my replacement yesterday, did not hook it up until today because we had a big time storm and I had no power for 4hrs. They sent a "new" H20-100 with all new cables, remote, ect: not a refurbish. I hope this one will last longer than the other two or its back to one my Sonys.

Tom, I am also at the same versions with my H20-100. No scheduled upgrades.


Snewo
-------------------------Same
Same here

Im glad there is a group of people in Florida who can come together and collectively complain. Often times thats the only way to get things resolved. I too called D* to advise them of the issues. The CSR did not know of the issue even though Ive seen it myself in three homes (plus the numerous people here). He wanted to troubleshoot and I just said my signal readings are all in the high 80s and 90s) and numerous people are being effected. He said he would log my call.

I know alot of people use the phrase "unwatchable" for the tiniest of issues, but this is a case where it is really difficult to watch. The other night, I left the Marlins game mid 8th inning as the jittery infield action was giving me a headache. When the infielder throws the ball to first, you dont see the ball until the first baseman has it. Meanwhile on DiscoveryHD I can see insects within individual grains of sand.

We'll see if its addressed.

Thanks all!

Tom, I am also at the same versions with my H20-100. No scheduled upgrades.


Snewo


Well, my H20-100 got updated at 3:09am on Wednesday morning (July 19). The update is called "100C" I think (I'm at work and can't check). I'm not sure what changed. I can't find any difference so far.

According to DBS talk (link below) there are no consumer level fixes in the new firmware for H20-100. Just addressing future items.

http://www.dbstalk.com/showthread.php?p=615750#post615750

I just noticed that I received a new software upgrade (0F14) on July 19th @ 4:16am.

Anyone know it's benefit/reason?

Edit: Nevermind did search on "O"f14 instead of "0"F14. I now see previous posts. Still no clue though as to benefit of upgrade.

rrrick8
Which model of H20 do you have?

rrrick8
Which model of H20 do you have?


I've got two 600's

Is there any improvement for the sluggish UI?

I just noticed that I received a new software upgrade (0F14) on July 19th @ 4:16am.

Anyone know it's benefit/reason?


Caller ID is now working. Not only does it work, but it is displaying calls from 3 weeks before the update. That means that it was receiving the modem tones all along and just not displaying them.

I know this is highly subjective but I think the speed of the UI is doubled. It is still not as fast as a 100 but I perceive an improvement such that I do not even notice the UI (which is the way it should be).

My 600 is running 2 degrees cooler, down to 105. :D

I have not noticed any other improvements. Someone else has posted that many of the changes have to do with future features and functions. We will have to wait and see. I think the point is that if we got an update it represents fixes for everything they know about and/or everything they can fix in firmware at this time.

HELP!

I had a perfectly working H20-600, then lightening fried it. I called D* for a replacement. Got that yesterday. It is also an H20-600, except it is used and reconditioned! I cannot get past the initial guided setup. The receiver fails to connect with any of the three satellites. I spent an hour on the phone with the "advanced tech support" yesterday. He more or less blamed my in home setup. This is wrong, because I can hook up my other D10 model to the same cable and it works fine. The guy said he would give me $50 off an in home visit and that he had documented our conversation and would transfer me to schedule a technician visit. My call was disconnected and I never got to speak with someone to schedule.

So now I have my original dead H20 that I have to send back to them in the prepaid FedEx box within a week, and a non-functioning "replacement." WTF?! I am beyond pissed off. I shouldn't have to pay for D* faulty equipment, not to mention $20 for them to ship me a used and reconditioned unit. Maybe if it were actually new I could reason the shipping cost.

But seriously, what do I do now?

HELP!

I had a perfectly working H20-600, then lightening fried it. I called D* for a replacement. Got that yesterday. It is also an H20-600, except it is used and reconditioned! I cannot get past the initial guided setup. The receiver fails to connect with any of the three satellites. I spent an hour on the phone with the "advanced tech support" yesterday. He more or less blamed my in home setup. This is wrong, because I can hook up my other D10 model to the same cable and it works fine. The guy said he would give me $50 off an in home visit and that he had documented our conversation and would transfer me to schedule a technician visit. My call was disconnected and I never got to speak with someone to schedule.

So now I have my original dead H20 that I have to send back to them in the prepaid FedEx box within a week, and a non-functioning "replacement." WTF?! I am beyond pissed off. I shouldn't have to pay for D* faulty equipment, not to mention $20 for them to ship me a used and reconditioned unit. Maybe if it were actually new I could reason the shipping cost.

But seriously, what do I do now?
That is ********!! I would keep on calling until you get what you want!!

HELP!

I had a perfectly working H20-600, then lightening fried it. I called D* for a replacement. Got that yesterday. It is also an H20-600, except it is used and reconditioned! I cannot get past the initial guided setup.

...what do I do now?

Call D* Customer Retention at 800 824-9081.
Explain that they sent a reconditioned H20 that was DOA and ask for a replacement. Also ask them which receiver to return in the prepaid box you just got.

Man, stop wasting your time. Go to ebay and buy an H20 for $20, then you can mod it or paint it blue. Why on earth would you bother wasting time with moronic phone support who know nothing and endless delays in shipping. Ebay or craigslist.

http://search.eb$$$ay.com/directv-h20_W0QQfromZR8QQfsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQssPageNameZWLRS

*Note: remove the $$$ signs and paste into your bowser, this forum wont allow the direct ebay link

Endless delays? D* ships out replacements faster than any crap from eBay.
And he won't be charged anything by D*.

HELP!

I had a perfectly working H20-600, then lightening fried it. I called D* for a replacement. Got that yesterday. It is also an H20-600, except it is used and reconditioned! I cannot get past the initial guided setup. The receiver fails to connect with any of the three satellites. I spent an hour on the phone with the "advanced tech support" yesterday. He more or less blamed my in home setup. This is wrong, because I can hook up my other D10 model to the same cable and it works fine. The guy said he would give me $50 off an in home visit and that he had documented our conversation and would transfer me to schedule a technician visit. My call was disconnected and I never got to speak with someone to schedule.

So now I have my original dead H20 that I have to send back to them in the prepaid FedEx box within a week, and a non-functioning "replacement." WTF?! I am beyond pissed off. I shouldn't have to pay for D* faulty equipment, not to mention $20 for them to ship me a used and reconditioned unit. Maybe if it were actually new I could reason the shipping cost.

But seriously, what do I do now?

Dan, call this # 1-800-824-9081 and be nice. :)
I'm on my 3rd H20. Each time they sent me a "new" one. I always tell them that its dead and I need a replacement, and would they please over night it to me. They have always came through and no cost to me. They have never said they would schedule a tec visit. I have one H20 [dead] now that is to be picked up tomorrow by FedEx. I have about 5 STBs that I can swap out while trouble shooting and it is very obvious that when one will work and the other one wont then its a bad box. I have said this before, this is the last H20 that I will try. If this one dies it back to one of my Sonys. I can get local hd ota.

Endless delays? D* ships out replacements faster than any crap from eBay.
And he won't be charged anything by D*.

I agree. I have had 6 H20's sent to me so far. Everyone of them arrived overnight and without question from D*. It is one of the few things they do really well.

Call them back and explain that your replacement H20 is bad and request another one. Do NOT mention the lightning strike. It confuses the issue and makes them think they are wasting their time. Just say it is very hot and locking up. If you say anything else they will want to troubleshoot.

Call D* Customer Retention at 800 824-9081.
Explain that they sent a reconditioned H20 that was DOA and ask for a replacement. Also ask them which receiver to return in the prepaid box you just got.

That did it. One ring of the phone and an actual human on the other end. Sending me a brand new unopened HD receiver and credited me for the time that I have been without service. I think that atones for yesterday's ridiculousness.

That did it.

I think that atones for yesterday's ridiculousness.

Except for the part about the "new unopened" H20. They said that to get you off the phone. There is no way they can guarantee what you will get, a 100 or a 600, much less one that is new and unopened. It is just the way it is. All you should expect is one that works. If it doesn't work, or if you don't like the way it smells, or whatever the reason, you can swap it out again and again and again. However they (and you) do not know what is going to show up on your doorstep.

Well, I was assured it would be new and unused. They didnt specify 100 or 600, however.

Go to ebay and buy an H20 for $20, then you can mod it or paint it blue. Wow, what a great idea. A BLUE H20. Just what I've always wanted...

Maybe, if I could get a free, used H20 on eBay with no shipping charges... :p

Thanks, but no thanks. I'll stick with D* when I need warranty replacements.

Blue? :D

I see all the mention of D* sending out replacement H20s. Are these leased units. I have 2 H20-600s. One works fine- the other one has the OTA problem of locking up and rebooting. I have called D* a couple times to complain. They give me the song and dance about a compatibility issue with my local broadcast stations. They mention a software upgrade is being worked on. I see I got an update a couple days ago but the unit is still garbage. It also locks up when I am watching D* SD channels sometimes. I own the unit. I asked about a replacement but the D* retention person wouldn't bite. Any advice???

I see all the mention of D* sending out replacement H20s. Are these leased units. I have 2 H20-600s. One works fine- the other one has the OTA problem of locking up and rebooting. I have called D* a couple times to complain. They give me the song and dance about a compatibility issue with my local broadcast stations. They mention a software upgrade is being worked on. I see I got an update a couple days ago but the unit is still garbage. It also locks up when I am watching D* SD channels sometimes. I own the unit. I asked about a replacement but the D* retention person wouldn't bite. Any advice???You must've spoken with the wrong customer retention person? Call back (and keep calling back) until you get a good (helpful) one. Luckily, the first call was the charm for me. The "fact" is that you need a replacement receiver. Don't settle for anything else. Refuse to accept the old "song & dance" routine. Anyone that has a defective receiver needs to have it replaced. End of song. And end of dance...

As far as "owning vs leasing" --- who cares? Either way it's broke. When D* replaced my defective, but "owned" --- H20-600 receiver, my status was changed to "leased". I couldn't have cared less. The good news was that I got lucky and they shipped me a H20-100 that works better than the H20-600. I also wouldn't care what model they sent me --- just so long as it isn't defective. Plus, I'm probably saving a king's ransom in electricity on air conditioning... That H20-600 was a hot sucker! :)

Remember: "The squeaky wheel gets the grease." Squeak up...

Received my first H20 ordered directly from D** on Friday.
It was an -100 so I hooked it up and the SOB was defective right out of the box.
It couldn't find any of the sats so no set up for me.Went through all of the reboot stuff etc,all to no avail.
My existing H20-600's all work just fine and the Sony 300 box this new H20 was replacing also works just fine.
Took over two hours of phone time to get level 2 Tech to send me a replacement box but it won't be here for three business days.
I didn't want to spend any more time on the phone so I'll just let it be for now since I hooked up my Sony and all is fine.
No LIL but no biggie.
Point is,D** is replacing the unit but couldn't tell me what version is coming to me.
They did confirm that it will be a new one not a refurb since the defective one is less than 45 days into the warranty period.
We'll see.

I see all the mention of D* sending out replacement H20s. Are these leased units? I have 2 H20-600s... [snip]... I own the unit. I asked about a replacement but the D* retention person wouldn't bite. Any advice???
Call 800 824-9081
Tell them you recently noticed that one of your H20s is very hot - almost too hot to put your hand on top!
Ask for a replacement and if they balk because you own the unit, ask to swap that receiver for a leased receiver. If they balk at that, about all you can do is threaten to cancel your service, which may work.

Received my first H20 ordered directly from D** on Friday.
It was an -100 so I hooked it up and the SOB was defective right out of the box.
It couldn't find any of the sats so no set up for me.Went through all of the reboot stuff etc,all to no avail.
My existing H20-600's all work just fine and the Sony 300 box this new H20 was replacing also works just fine.
Took over two hours of phone time to get level 2 Tech to send me a replacement box but it won't be here for three business days.
I didn't want to spend any more time on the phone so I'll just let it be for now since I hooked up my Sony and all is fine.
No LIL but no biggie.
Point is,D** is replacing the unit but couldn't tell me what version is coming to me.
They did confirm that it will be a new one not a refurb since the defective one is less than 45 days into the warranty period.
We'll see.

A lot of these H20s seem to be broken right out of the box, BRAND NEW. I had a tech at my house all weekend messing with several new H20s. The first one he had wouldn't pull any signal from the 103 satellites. Then it flashed for a second then back to zero. He moved the dish all day Saturday to no avail. Finally on Sunday, he came back with more boxes and tried new ones right out of the box. Finally he got one to work that picked up a signal from all 4 of the satelittes (99 isn't currently on). The box seems to work ok and the PQ is pretty good. All of the H20 models were the 100 model variety. I guess it appears that D* is no longer sending out new H20 600 models to the techs.

Jeff

I went on line to track my replacement H20 receiver and the D** website only showed my order as "processing".
I called retention this morning and here's what the specialist did for me:
Shipped another H20 Fed-ex to my home at no charge.
Credited me $12.00 per month for 12 months in order to cover the cost of the first H20 that came in defective. (I'll return the H20's to D**I don't need.)
Credited me $5.00 per month for 6 months for the HD package.
Set me up for a free H10-250 DVR with a 6x8 multiswitch (made sure this was on the workorder) and install for this coming Monday.I was charged the 19.95 Shipping and Handling fee however but no big deal.
Pretty pleased overall and I also made sure that Superfan Plus was at no charge for this coming season.
I've been a customer for over 11 years and this type of service keeps me at D**.
A pleasant experience dealing with customer retention.

I've been with D** for 12 years and they've done stuff like that for me too. :)

I went on line to track my replacement H20 receiver and the D** website only showed my order as "processing".
I called retention this morning and here's what the specialist did for me:
Shipped another H20 Fed-ex to my home at no charge.
Credited me $12.00 per month for 12 months in order to cover the cost of the first H20 that came in defective. (I'll return the H20's to D**I don't need.)
Credited me $5.00 per month for 6 months for the HD package.
Set me up for a free H10-250 DVR with a 6x8 multiswitch (made sure this was on the workorder) and install for this coming Monday.I was charged the 19.95 Shipping and Handling fee however but no big deal.
Pretty pleased overall and I also made sure that Superfan Plus was at no charge for this coming season.
I've been a customer for over 11 years and this type of service keeps me at D**.
A pleasant experience dealing with customer retention.

For my troubles, I also received the $5 off per month for HD along with the 6X8 switch. I also was able to get a FREE month of service for the tech troubles, which includes a Sunday ticket payment and part of the Super Fan, which I already had a discount on. Pretty good deal if you ask me. I would NEVER get any similar discounts if I was still with Cox crap cable.

I have had the H20-600 for about a month or so. I have it connected via HDMI. Every hour or so, the screen goes black, blue, green, green tint, or even shuts off the TV. The screen also shifts left to right at times, then corrects itself. I had the TV (new) replaced thinking it was the problem. D* sent me a new box but it had a "reconditioned" sticker and the PQ was horrible, so I sent it back. I now have it connected via component, but the PQ is slightly less than that of the HDMI. I spoke at length Saturday night with a tech in advanced support, and they told me HD is giving D* fits. She said there really was nothing they could do, but they were coming out with a new receiver in the fall. I have a service call set up for next week, but I'm not confident he will be able to do anything.

I'm really at a loss as to what to do next. Any ideas?

I have had the H20-600 for about a month or so. I have it connected via HDMI. Every hour or so, the screen goes black, blue, green, green tint, or even shuts off the TV. The screen also shifts left to right at times, then corrects itself. I had the TV (new) replaced thinking it was the problem. D* sent me a new box but it had a "reconditioned" sticker and the PQ was horrible, so I sent it back. I now have it connected via component, but the PQ is slightly less than that of the HDMI. I spoke at length Saturday night with a tech in advanced support, and they told me HD is giving D* fits. She said there really was nothing they could do, but they were coming out with a new receiver in the fall. I have a service call set up for next week, but I'm not confident he will be able to do anything.

I'm really at a loss as to what to do next. Any ideas?

No problem. Call your favorite D* person. Tell them it runs very hot and locks up from time to time and you want to swap it out. Nothing else. Be nice, but firm. They will overnight it to you. If they balk for any reason, hang up. Call back. Repeat above.

I have had the H20-600 for about a month or so. I have it connected via HDMI. Every hour or so, the screen goes black, blue, green, green tint, or even shuts off the TV. The screen also shifts left to right at times, then corrects itself. I had the TV (new) replaced thinking it was the problem. D* sent me a new box but it had a "reconditioned" sticker and the PQ was horrible, so I sent it back. I now have it connected via component, but the PQ is slightly less than that of the HDMI. I spoke at length Saturday night with a tech in advanced support, and they told me HD is giving D* fits. She said there really was nothing they could do, but they were coming out with a new receiver in the fall. I have a service call set up for next week, but I'm not confident he will be able to do anything.

I'm really at a loss as to what to do next. Any ideas?Bill made a good, solid suggestion. But, don't hold your breath that yet another replacement H20 will solve all of the various and sundry H20 problems. In fact, I'd go so far as to suggest that it's entirely possible that you'll only encounter a different set of problems. :rolleyes:

I'm going to go out on a limb --- and say that D*'s H20 is a really problematic (buggy) receiver. I'll even lump both the -600 and the -100 models into my generalization. At least I hope that's the case and that it isn't a matter of Mpeg-4 being basically flawed technology. :eek: We can at least pray for an improved receiver at this point. Who knows, maybe the long awaited Mpeg-4 DVR will work better than the H20 receiver?

Sure, I might be totally wrong. But, that's the way it looks to me as I sit here watching this H20-100.

I'm going to go out on a limb --- and say that D*'s H20 is a really problematic (buggy) receiver. I'll even lump both the -600 and the -100 models into my generalization.
Certainly the reports of hot 600's and defective 100's are an issue. My insiders tell me that about 1 in 650 units has been either detected or reported as having some kind of "operational flaw prohibiting consumer use". That's still a problem, when you scale it up to thousands already in the field.

That said, there are 2 problems which make up 80% of the flaws - one is the well-known "cook an egg on it" heat issue in a few of the 600's.

That was caused by one of 2 problems, both of which cannot be cured completely - the power supply from one supplier was hot and can be replaced (and was on many units at the expense of the manufacturer) and the heat sink unit on the motherboard, which can also be replaced by a different unit that reduces the heat by over 60%. D* has been quite good at replacement units so far, sending new or repaired units out almost without question at their own shipping expense. My unit, as well as at least 11 other H20-600's I know of never had any heat issues, but there are others who have reported them.

The second flaw is really not a flaw in the units - rather, the PSIP coding being used in certain local stations' HD transmissions is flawed in some cases, and must be addressed by the stations themselves. Once reported, problem stations in at least 6 cities have fixed this issue. It just so happens that since the H20 receivers have 5th generation OTA chips, they are very sensitive to detecting this broadcast issue, and it puts them in the now-famous "endless reboot loop". I had this for 3 days, but temporarily addressed it by removing the station, calling them, and then reinstating it in the guide on the day they said it would be fixed on their end. Since then...not one problem.

In the big picture, the release of the H20's has been quite successful, and the problem rate is actually lower than other new boxes like the Motorola HD box that Comcast released in 2005 and used until this year and the original E* HD box that initially had several "issues" before they corrected them.

What impresses me more is that D* and E* have been quite responsive to getting the bad units off the street. Has this been flawless in execution - NO. Some folks went through more than 1 replacement before getting a stable replacement (they should have never run the risk of sending off-the-shelf new units which might have the same flaw in them).

What this seems to reinforce is that all the providers need to do some more field beta releases on their new boxes before nationally deploying them.

Certainly the reports of hot 600's and defective 100's are an issue....

The second flaw is really not a flaw in the units - rather, the PSIP coding being used in certain local stations' HD transmissions is flawed in some cases, and must be addressed by the stations themselves. Once reported, problem stations in at least 6 cities have fixed this issue. It just so happens that since the H20 receivers have 5th generation OTA chips, they are very sensitive to detecting this broadcast issue, and it puts them in the now-famous "endless reboot loop"...
So far, the bad PSIP data from a station has not affected any H20-100s that I know of. Only H20-600s.

For those who may not have seen it in previous posts:
The H20-600 is made by LG. It has green indicator lights on the front panel.
The H20-100 is made by RCA and has blue indicator lights.

My insiders tell me that about 1 in 650 units has been either detected or reported as having some kind of "operational flaw prohibiting consumer use".You are probably absolutely correct. I'm amazed that these incredible electronics even work at all given the level of complexity and all of the variables involved. Magic? The H20 with Mpeg-4 is, after all, new technology? The bleeding edge and all of that...

Perhaps I'm all wrong, but I wonder about your "insiders' information". Not that it is false... Not at all. But I wonder what else might possibly be going on that is not being talked about? If 1 in 650 D* customers are reporting units as DOA (or dead shortly after arrival), how many more units have serious issues that otherwise affect "proper/acceptable" operation? Not just PSIP, but "minor" freezes, glitches, audio and video drop-outs, etc. Intermittent problems?

I returned my first H20 (a -600 model) when it was unable to pass a signal over HDMI. And, the caller ID didn't work. And it randomly started to reboot over and over again. And it was incredibly hot.

The H20-100 that D* quickly and efficiently replaced it with works MUCH better! But, when I stop to think about it, the receiver is actually performing abominably. It wasn't DOA, far from it, but watching it puts a whole new meaning into frustration. Maybe it's just my isolated case --- I definitely don't qualify as being a scientific survey --- but the fact is that because I so desperately desire to watch programs in HD, I have put up with really poor performance from the receiver and problem-plagued picture quality (P-PPQ). ;)

All I have to do is switch inputs on my system and view one of my the DirecTiVo (SD) receivers and I immediately stop having the problems that I have tried so hard to ignore. Intermittent problems but insistently intermittent. While watching the British Open, for example, just as Tiger starts to swing at his ball, the picture freezes for 2 or 3 seconds. The audio continues but it's otherwise as if I hit the "pause button" that the H20 doesn't even have. Or, a few minutes later, while the announcer is discussing the death of Tiger's father --- the picture is fine, but the audio drops out completely for maybe 10 seconds. And that doesn't take into account the far too frequent occasions when I get a "searching for satellite" message. I think it's interesting that when I quickly switch over to watch my old SD receiver (either one of my DirecTiVos) the picture is rock solid. Granted, it isn't in HD --- but it also isn't plagued with frequent glitches, freezes, drop-outs, etc.

I love to play craps but I just can't bring myself to take a chance on a crap-shoot and swap out this H20-100 for another receiver of "unknown quality". Maybe a refurbed -600 or a DOA -100? I've read so many messages from people reporting that they are now on their 5th reciever and still don't have a properly functioning receiver. I heartily commend D* for the way they are standing behind their equipment and trying so hard to correct the problems. They amaze me... They even pay the return shipping!

But, I'm truthfully ashamed when I invite friends and family over to watch my "NEW HD TV" only to have them ask why it isn't working right. My reply? "Ummmm, just ignore it..." :confused:

But, maybe that's the price I have to pay to watch HD? It is, after all, fantastic MOST of the time... Just the occasional little stumble. I've actually gotten pretty good at just ignoring it too... Obviously it hasn't gotten bad enough that I switch over to watching SD. But I have to admit that it is begining to really get to me!

So, maybe it's just me. Maybe I'm just being unreasonable or over-reacting? If 649 out of 650 people are happy --- who am I too complain? :eek:

I wonder how D* would handle my 24-month contract if I switch over to cable? I don't have any illusions that cable is all that much better than D* --- but maybe it is better? Or, maybe I should just stop fighting to watch HD programming until the bugs are worked out? Decisions, decisions.

Certainly the reports of hot 600's and defective 100's are an issue. My insiders tell me that about 1 in 650 units has been either detected or reported as having some kind of "operational flaw prohibiting consumer use". That's still a problem, when you scale it up to thousands already in the field.

That said, there are 2 problems which make up 80% of the flaws - one is the well-known "cook an egg on it" heat issue in a few of the 600's.

That was caused by one of 2 problems, both of which cannot be cured completely - the power supply from one supplier was hot and can be replaced (and was on many units at the expense of the manufacturer) and the heat sink unit on the motherboard, which can also be replaced by a different unit that reduces the heat by over 60%. D* has been quite good at replacement units so far, sending new or repaired units out almost without question at their own shipping expense. My unit, as well as at least 11 other H20-600's I know of never had any heat issues, but there are others who have reported them.

The second flaw is really not a flaw in the units - rather, the PSIP coding being used in certain local stations' HD transmissions is flawed in some cases, and must be addressed by the stations themselves. Once reported, problem stations in at least 6 cities have fixed this issue. It just so happens that since the H20 receivers have 5th generation OTA chips, they are very sensitive to detecting this broadcast issue, and it puts them in the now-famous "endless reboot loop". I had this for 3 days, but temporarily addressed it by removing the station, calling them, and then reinstating it in the guide on the day they said it would be fixed on their end. Since then...not one problem.

In the big picture, the release of the H20's has been quite successful, and the problem rate is actually lower than other new boxes like the Motorola HD box that Comcast released in 2005 and used until this year and the original E* HD box that initially had several "issues" before they corrected them.

What impresses me more is that D* and E* have been quite responsive to getting the bad units off the street. Has this been flawless in execution - NO. Some folks went through more than 1 replacement before getting a stable replacement (they should have never run the risk of sending off-the-shelf new units which might have the same flaw in them).

What this seems to reinforce is that all the providers need to do some more field beta releases on their new boxes before nationally deploying them.

Only the H20-600 has the fifth generation OTA chip. The H20-100 does not.