Here is the link to the file that you need:

File - DirecTV HDTV receiver H20

http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload.php?action=file&file_id=2956

I don't know if you have played with JP1, but if not, check out the rest of the hifi-remote.com page. You will find all of the info and software that you need to use that file. The only thing you will need if you don't have one yet is a cable to connect the remote to your PC. If you don't have one, I suggest that you look for a JP1 to USB cable and drivers. This works much bettter than the old serial to JP1 cables...I have both and played with them both extensively so I know.

Phil P.

Just need a little info,I would like to get another HD20 receiver. T he one I have now I was able to get for free after rebates. Now they want to charge me $98.00 plus shipping and tax for a second one. Is their anyway to get one for free again.

Just need a little info,I would like to get another HD20 receiver. T he one I have now I was able to get for free after rebates. Now they want to charge me $98.00 plus shipping and tax for a second one. Is their anyway to get one for free again.
You might try calling customer retention. I was able to "explain" to them since the new units are now leased [not owned] it didn't make any sense to " pay for the privilege" to lease a unit that I didn't own [& would need to be returned in the end] & had a two year programing commitment. They understood & I paid S&H.

You might try calling customer retention. I was able to "explain" to them since the new units are now leased [not owned] it didn't make any sense to " pay for the privilege" to lease a unit that I didn't own [& would need to be returned in the end] & had a two year programing commitment. They understood & I paid S&H.

And if you don't get what you want on your first call to retention, keep calling back. After talking to multiple CSRs, one of them will more than likely give you a deal. It's called "CSR Roulette." ;)

Thanks ,I will give it a try.

And if you don't get what you want on your first call to retention, keep calling back. After talking to multiple CSRs, one of them will more than likely give you a deal. It's called "CSR Roulette." ;)
I do enjoy "our helpful tips" here.

Has anyone had any luck in leasing a new H20 from DirecTV without charge & without a 2yr programming commitment?

Thanks for the help, it worked like a charm. The first call I made to CSR got no where. The second one sent me to a installation rep and he waved the $98.00 and just made me pay S&H. Not sure if it will be HD20-100 or200 but I did get what I was trying for. Yes the help on here is great, thanks again.

if you have a one for all remote, depending on model you can use JP1 to upload a code that will control the H20. i use one a URC-8811 to control my entier HT.
I have the 6011 and I don't believe it has that capability.

Has anyone had any luck in leasing a new H20 from DirecTV without charge & without a 2yr programming commitment?
To date the "two year programing commitment" is "uncrackable". I've had them "give the store away" but no luck with "the two year..."
Let me know if you [or anybody else] have any luck.

AFAIK, the 2-yr commitment is set in stone. But you can get a free H20 from cust retention if you tell them you're ready to jump ship to dish or cable.
800 824-9081

Here comes the dumb question of the day.

I am having my 5lnb dish installed on Tuesday. I have it off my deck now and sometimes during the winter snow builds up and I lose signal. I take a broom and clean it off and everything is fine.

The new dish is going on the roof. I will lose the ability to clean the snow off it.

What do you guys alll do? Is there some sort of dish warmer..lol?

Here comes the dumb question of the day.

I am having my 5lnb dish installed on Tuesday. I have it off my deck now and sometimes during the winter snow builds up and I lose signal. I take a broom and clean it off and everything is fine.

The new dish is going on the roof. I will lose the ability to clean the snow off it.

What do you guys alll do? Is there some sort of dish warmer..lol?
I have needed to clean the snow off myself. I've used a garden hose, a broom, & thought about using something like a engine block heater. My experience with "military products" has me remembering orange silicon heating material.
Googling came up with 1- a heatlamp, 2- spraying with silicon [or PAM] in the fall, 3- covers for the dish.

It gets me going... Thanks.. Pam sounds like a great idea

Pam will make your dish a dirty nasty mess.
Cover it with a plastic garbage bag or install a switchable flood light aimed near the back of it.

You could also set a 2" round pipe in concrete in your yard, so you can reach the dish to clean it off.

Or move out of the snow belt. :-)

AFAIK, the 2-yr commitment is set in stone. But you can get a free H20 from cust retention if you tell them you're ready to jump ship to dish or cable.
800 824-9081(Car analogy?) I think it's similar to the situation of being stopped by a cop for speeding.

Sometimes you get stopped by a cop who is dead-set on writing you a ticket. That is his "job" after all? While other times you can, if you're polite and respectful and lucky --- talk your way out of the ticket. It's entirely up to the officer or deputy whether you get the ticket or not.

Same when dealing with a D* CSR and wanting a "free" receiver. You can get lucky and call a CSR and not have to pay full MSRP or perhaps not have to pay anything at all for a new receiver. Threatening CSRs or telling them sob stories about how your pet lhama just died might help sometimes? I've found that simply mentioning that I have read where others get no-cost receivers from them is enough to get me a no-hassle free deal. The last time I called, the price quickly went from $399 to $299 to $99 to $0. I didn't have to scream and yell or beg and plead. I didn't even have to tell them the gruesome details about my dearly departed lhama and hamster.

As many others have commented, it doesn't seem that the 2-year committment is negotiable ... No latitude there? But, then again, what IS a 2-year committment. It's a contract with D* correct? They agree to supply satellite service and you agree to use the service for at least 24 months... Is that a big deal? I don't think so, but apparently some folks do. YMMV?

The main reason I might not want to continue being a D* customer would be if the service they provide is unacceptable. After all, I've already been a customer for nearing two decades now. But, If D* fails to deliver what I am paying them for each month, then (in my personal opinion) I would feel completely justified (after good faith efforts from both parties) to cancel the "agreement" no matter how many months were remaining. Of course, contract law is not a simple matter... But that 2-year committment works both ways?

Or, what if I happen to die in the next 24 months? Does my estate have to pony up the penalty for premature dish withdrawal? Should I plan to get a dish mounted onto my headstone? Hmmmmm. I'm not positive, but it would seem like D* might not want to be known for busting the chops of dead customers? Bad PR?

On the other hand, it doesn't seem unreasonable at all for D* to desire to have their customers agree to a 2-year committment. From my perspective, they are letting me use their receiver with no up-front charges. Fair enough...

Bottom line, I've found that being polite works better than being aggressive or demanding. That plus being lucky enough to get a "nice & friendly" CSR when I call.

And, FWIW, I don't pay for the sunday ticket or stupid fan, but they still tell me that I am one of their very best customers. And I do pay over $1,500 a year to them... :D

... I've already been a customer for nearing two decades now.... Two decades? That's pushing it a bit. They've only been in business for 12 years.

I don't live where it snows, but I know for a fact you can buy dish warmers - essentially heating strips attached to the dish. Doesnt' take much.

Pam will make your dish a dirty nasty mess.
Cover it with a plastic garbage bag or install a switchable flood light aimed near the back of it.

You could also set a 2" round pipe in concrete in your yard, so you can reach the dish to clean it off.

Or move out of the snow belt. :-)
I left out from my googling the "for sale sign" option.
The flood light option was modified to using a heat lamp [infrared] since heat is the goal, & covering the dish is reported to have limited success.

I know for a fact you can buy dish warmers.
Can you give more info?

This is just one from a quick google search: http://www.dishdepot.com/accessories.jsp

This is just one from a quick google search: http://www.dishdepot.com/accessories.jsp
Thanks, but I guess I'm just a cheap SOB & would go for the "block heater" option.

I'd be afraid the heat lamp would be an electrical hazard, as well as a shattering hazard. I am sure you can find cheaper dish heaters, though, I just took the first one that popped up in a basic google search.

Here comes the dumb question of the day.

I am having my 5lnb dish installed on Tuesday. I have it off my deck now and sometimes during the winter snow builds up and I lose signal. I take a broom and clean it off and everything is fine.

The new dish is going on the roof. I will lose the ability to clean the snow off it.

What do you guys alll do? Is there some sort of dish warmer..lol?

I got mine mounted on the chimney and have a gas fireplace. If snow builds up on the dish, I turn on the fireplace and within 20 minutes the snow is almost gone!!!

Also, I have had snow build up on previous dishes and never lost signal during a snow storm...even at the rate of snow falling at 1/2" or slightly more per hour. I wanted to see if I would lose signal if I let it build up on the dish....no signal loss.

There are some coating to spray on that make the dish "slippery" and harder for snow to stick. Also, ther are "clip on" heaters, but I do not know how well they work.

I am sure you can find cheaper dish heaters.
Those who have spent time in snow country, should understand the "block heater" as the same thing.
Of course any flood light [or infrared lamp] would need to be "for outdoor use".
The "dish heater" packages look to be a well thought out "drop in" solution.

Outdoor grade floodlight aimed near the back of the dish works just fine.

Can't get much cheaper.

I have had snow build up on previous dishes and never lost signal during a snow storm...even at the rate of snow falling at 1/2" or slightly more per hour. I wanted to see if I would lose signal if I let it build up on the dish....no signal loss.
You haven't lived in the Sierra Nevada mountains. I have been out every 15 min. on "dish maintenance".

Outdoor grade floodlight aimed near the back of the dish works just fine.

Can't get much cheaper.
Point taken & understood!

I was about to laugh at you people who have snow problems, until I remembered that for the last two years running, I had to take my dish down completely several times while hurricanes ran thorugh the area. Still, you can have your snow.

I was about to laugh at you people who have snow problems, until I remembered that for the last two years running, I had to take my dish down completely several times while hurricanes ran thorugh the area. Still, you can have your snow.
If it isn't one thing, it's another....
I'll take earthquakes.... They don't have a "season", & they're over in seconds.

Aye, but you have time to prepare for a hurricane, and if your house is well built, you have no problems. How much notice does an earthquake give you, and what chance do you stand if the ground underneath you gives way ? No thanks, buddy !

How much notice does an earthquake give you, and what chance do you stand if the ground underneath you gives way ? No thanks, buddy !
As I've learned, it's what "you grew up with" that makes sense [to you]. The ground only "gives way" when you're standing on the fault line. Now a 7.1 earthquake does scare the sh*t out of you & it takes some time to regain your composer to "only" a 5 something aftershock.

You make complete sense, but I tell ya - the air is supposed to move. The seas are supposed to move. The ground is not !

Aye, but you have time to prepare for a hurricane, and if your house is well built, you have no problems. How much notice does an earthquake give you, and what chance do you stand if the ground underneath you gives way ? No thanks, buddy !


Yeah, I feel the same way. Here in the Northeast we get some snow, some rain, and occassional hurricane and a very rare F0 tornado (No big deal).....However,no earthquakes. Earthquakes are sudden with little to no warning. I'd hate to be on the 2nd floor of a 30 story highrise during an unexpected earthquake.

You haven't lived in the Sierra Nevada mountains. I have been out every 15 min. on "dish maintenance".

You got a point there...48" in 36 hours would likely cause outages...sorry.
I keep thinking 8" or 12" snowstorms over a 36 HR period....

Here in the Northeast we get some snow, I keep thinking 8" or 12" snowstorms over a 36 HR period....
I guess you weren't around for that "little snow fall" back in '78 around Boston. The USAF gave me the "joy" to experiance that one. I actually got so stuck, walking to the flightline, that my buddy had to pull me out! All I could do was fall over [into the snow] when I lifted my leg [to walk]. if he hadn't been there, it would have been spring before they found me.
Yeah, everywhere has "its problems" & we all choose the one we prefer.

Two decades? That's pushing it a bit. They've only been in business for 12 years.I stand corrected... it's been about 12-years now; it only seems like a couple of decades. ;)

I'll wager that Alan Shore with Crane, Poole & Schmidt could get someone out of that 24 month committment. :D

Especially if that someone gets a new receiver and it just doesn't work?

At any rate, the 2 year deal isn't any big deal to me.

I stand corrected... it's been about 12-years now; it only seems like a couple of decades. ;)

I'll wager that Alan Shore with Crane, Poole & Schmidt could get someone out of that 24 month committment. :D
Back on topic [good before the "hall monitors" complain].
I would guess paying the early termination fee would be cheaper than "Crane, Poole & Schmidt".

I'm sorry, but I'm reading that some of you at least are getting OTA reception from your H20 (or is it HR20?)...but D* tells me it hasn't been turned on yet...I'm confused:
"Thanks for writing. If you have the H20 receiver, and local channels in HD are not available in your area, you will need an off-air antenna for HD locals. If you have the HR20, the off-air capability will be added with software download by Dec 1, 2006. If you need additional information regarding this, you can call us at 1-800-531-5000 or write back and let us know. Don't forget to include your account number, phone number and zip code so we can better address your concern."

I'm sorry, but I'm reading that some of you at least are getting OTA reception from your H20 (or is it HR20?)...but D* tells me it hasn't been turned on yet...I'm confused:
"Thanks for writing. If you have the H20 receiver, and local channels in HD are not available in your area, you will need an off-air antenna for HD locals. If you have the HR20, the off-air capability will be added with software download by Dec 1, 2006. If you need additional information regarding this, you can call us at 1-800-531-5000 or write back and let us know. Don't forget to include your account number, phone number and zip code so we can better address your concern."
I'm lost. Is this a question or a reply to an earlier post?
OTA has been described here many times. The H20 [both -100 & -600] has OTA working, while the HR20-700 doesn't [yet].

Back on topic [good before the "hall monitors" complain].
I would guess paying the early termination fee would be cheaper than "Crane, Poole & Schmidt".The question is just how aggressively D* will be in collecting the "fee".

For that matter, if it was just a matter of me wanting out of the committment for no good reason --- wouldn't having to pay D* an early termination fee only be fair? Right now (even as bad as the Mpeg4 receivers are) D* beats cable --- in my opinion, in my area. So why object to the 2 year committment? I too dislike and try to avoid making committments --- but I understand why D* wants them.

How much is the early termination fee, anyway?

The question is just how aggressively D* will be in collecting the "fee".

For that matter, if it was just a matter of me wanting out of the committment for no good reason --- wouldn't having to pay D* an early termination fee only be fair? Right now (even as bad as the Mpeg4 receivers are) D* beats cable --- in my opinion, in my area. So why object to the 2 year committment? I too dislike and try to avoid making committments --- but I understand why D* wants them.

How much is the early termination fee, anyway?
I don't have the 2-year commitment [yet] & don't know "how much".
I do have an HR on order [which will require...] & would like to see "for myself" how it works before...
There is every likelihood I will continue with D*, but having gone through all of this [before] moving to D* & HD, I'm not so quick to repeat the experience. Both of my H20s for the most part are working fine.

Anyone hear of a H20 frying the component input of a display?

OTA has always worked on the H20 receiver.

Hey all.. if this has been discussed I appologize, couldn't find anything searching.

Is it possible to use an H20 *solely* as an OTA HD receiver? Lets say I had one new out of the box, no account, no nothing, just the H20 and an HDTV antenna... is there any way to do this?

Hey all.. if this has been discussed I appologize, couldn't find anything searching.

Is it possible to use an H20 *solely* as an OTA HD receiver? Lets say I had one new out of the box, no account, no nothing, just the H20 and an HDTV antenna... is there any way to do this?No. H-20 will not work unless it has D*.

No. H-20 will not work unless it has D*.
I thought this was true but... I had my account "suspended" & left the box in place. The guide would still work, but the programs from D* would [I think it was] show the 721 message, but the OTA channels would still come in. Now this may not be true if the unit hasn't been activated, but it is a fact that the OTA does work after.
I think this may be one of the reasons for the "two year commitment".

I thought this was true but... I had my account "suspended" & left the box in place. The guide would still work, but the programs from D* would [I think it was] show the 721 message, but the OTA channels would still come in. Now this may not be true if the unit hasn't been activated, but it is a fact that the OTA does work after.
I think this may be one of the reasons for the "two year commitment".


Ooohh.. that's what I thought. So you think if I bought a used one that had been activated before it might work?

Ooohh.. that's what I thought. So you think if I bought a used one that had been activated before it might work?
I know what I said is a FACT not a guess.
Now the unit hadn't been unplugged [from pwr or the sat.] so I won't guarantee anything [but what my eyes have seen].

I know what I said is a FACT not a guess.
Now the unit hadn't been unplugged [from pwr or the sat.] so I won't guarantee anything [but what my eyes have seen].

Well it would definately be worth a try... I can get a used one for like 30-50 bucks as opposed to like 200 for a straight up hdtv receiver. I'll let you all know how it goes.

After "unsubscribing" my H20, I unplugged and stored it. Now if I connect it to satellite,
the guide works but OTA does not. YMMV, of course.

After "unsubscribing" my H20, I unplugged and stored it. Now if I connect it to satellite,
the guide works but OTA does not. YMMV, of course.
Which H20? Mine [for this test] was the -600 [& wasn't unplugged].
If OTA HDTV [without D*] was what I wanted...
I would [as I've done] add a HDTV tuner [card or USB] to a PC [XP or media center] and it would be a DVR also.

I have noticed with mine, if it can't find a satellite after power on, it won't let the OTA tuner work either, but as long as I have not cut power to it since it last found a satellite, it is fine. I know this from the last 2 years of hurricane preparation (I remove my dish reflector)

Jeff's experience mirrors ours. We lost power for about five minutes during a heavy rainstorm a couple of weeks back. When the power came back on, the H20 could not find a satellite due to rain fade - no OTA. As soon as it acquired the satellite, we had OTA.

Carl

Which model of the H20 [-100 or -600] do you have? They're different [hardware & software] & I'm interested in seeing which [or both] models do this. Mine haven't had rain fade [yet, but it's coming].

I have the H20-600. As noted above, if I try to tune an OTA channel, a message appears that I must subscribe to access this channel. This is an "owned" receiver, which was free after rebate. I had it active for a few weeks in March, but finally decided I liked my Sony HD300 better, so the H20 was deactivated.

I have the H20-600. As noted above, if I try to tune an OTA channel, a message appears that I must subscribe to access this channel. This is an "owned" receiver, which was free after rebate. I had it active for a few weeks in March, but finally decided I liked my Sony HD300 better, so the H20 was deactivated.
Good to know... I am very happy with my SAT300, but D* changed to MPEG-4 for locals [big deal three channels].
I guess my "test" only worked because the box hadn't lost power causing a "reset".

So the word is that OTA on the HR20 is disabled. Why is this?

When do they plan to enable it?

Any word on when Portland, OR is getting local HD's? First they say August, then Semptember then October and now it's just listed as fall. What's the deal?

So the word is that OTA on the HR20 is disabled. Why is this?

When do they plan to enable it?

Any word on when Portland, OR is getting local HD's? First they say August, then Semptember then October and now it's just listed as fall. What's the deal?
I think the status for the HR-20 [this is the H20 forum] is "it hasn't been enabled yet" [they goofed] & is due by the end of the year.

Is there any reason that all my MPEG 4 locals don't display HD programming in HD, but in SD? This started happening sometime in the past week or 2. I rarely watch them anyway, but didn't know if I was the only one. I'm in the Orlando, Fl market and I'm currently using a 600 series. Thanks!

Is there any reason that all my MPEG 4 locals don't display HD programming in HD, but in SD? This started happening sometime in the past week or 2. I rarely watch them anyway, but didn't know if I was the only one. I'm in the Orlando, Fl market and I'm currently using a 600 series. Thanks!
NO.
Check in setup that it's set for 1080/720. When you say "SD" are you referring to "not widescreen"? In your guide [for locals] are: SD, HD, HD OTA for each channel. Check to see which you've selected [to watch].
My -600 lost OTA channels for a couple of weeks [until I unplugged it] before resetting.

Make sure the format button (on the remote) is on the right setting for your TV.

does anyone know when the software update for the h20 is coming...

i want to use my hdmi port

bump... does anyone know when the software update for the h20 is coming...

i want to use my hdmi port ?

bump... does anyone know when the software update for the h20 is coming...

i want to use my hdmi port ?
I guess the answer is no.
I'm using the HDMI, though I use a HDMI-DVI cable to my Sony. I've read some problems about this & it seems to come from users that "daisy-chain" from the receiver to their AV amp & then to their TV. The more in "inline" the more "trouble" with the "handshake" [sync] requirement.

bump... does anyone know when the software update for the h20 is coming...

i want to use my hdmi port ?

The reason that no one answered you is that...

1) there is no scheduled update for the H20s, or any other D* box. They send them when they are ready, unannounced.
2) There are no inherent problems with HDMI on the H20. If you are having problems it is local to your setup or your box is bad.

bump... does anyone know when the software update for the h20 is coming... i want to use my hdmi port ?
I don't think that D* pre-announces info/dates about their receiver's software updates. Maybe because they don't know exactly when they will offer them? I'd guess that when they finish working on a software update --- they just send it out?

FWIW, I originally had a H20-600 receiver. It was connected through my Denon A/V receiver and then into my Panasonic plasma monitor. When connected via HDMI the H20 would go into an endless rebooting loop. After D* replaced the original H20-600 (hot-box) with a new H20-100 receiver the HDMI has worked fine.

Another thought is that even if a software upgrade is released, it might or might not correct your problem? How do you have the H20 connected presently? I don't see much difference between the HDMI and component hook-ups with my system. But maybe that's because I am not as discerning as some folks?

The reason that no one answered you is that...

1) there is no scheduled update for the H20s, or any other D* box. They send them when they are ready, unannounced.
2) There are no inherent problems with HDMI on the H20. If you are having problems it is local to your setup or your box is bad.

Your #2 is incorrect. Call D*, even the regular CSRs know about this one, for the H20-100. It was supposed to happen in September, but did not.

Your #2 is incorrect. Call D*, even the regular CSRs know about this one, for the H20-100. It was supposed to happen in September, but did not.
I think we're all here to help [each other] out. Have you ever gotten bad info from a CRS?
I think the update, you refer to, is really for the HR20-700 that everyone is waiting for.
Just my opinion.

The new software for the HR20 700 has been out for two weeks.

http://www.dbstalk.com/showthread.php?t=66151

The new software for the HR20 700 has been out for two weeks.

http://www.dbstalk.com/showthread.php?t=66151
I know this is the wrong forum, but IS this the one that makes the OTA work?

The reason that no one answered you is that...

1) there is no scheduled update for the H20s, or any other D* box. They send them when they are ready, unannounced.
2) There are no inherent problems with HDMI on the H20. If you are having problems it is local to your setup or your box is bad.
It is my understanding that there IS a problem with H20's and HDMI connections for certain Samsung models. 2nd level support at D* has even acknowledged it.

It is my understanding that there IS a problem with H20's and HDMI connections for certain Samsung models. 2nd level support at D* has even acknowledged it.
I believe you're right. For some reason "the standard" isn't standard.

I know this is the wrong forum, but IS this the one that makes the OTA work?


HR20 - 0xD8

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Fixes
HDMI - Improvements to the HDMI communications and protocols between the HR20 and the TV.
When a new software update is available, a warning message will be displayed even if the user is watching a recording
Highlights to identified selected items.. have been corrected

Improvements
Disk space bar updates dynamically when user deletes or changes the status of the recording to Keep.
SPDIF is muted when box is "off"/standby
Interactive content transitions with TV
Additional details in bootup splash screens
General stability of the unit.

HR20 - 0xD8

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Fixes
HDMI - Improvements to the HDMI communications and protocols between the HR20 and the TV.
When a new software update is available, a warning message will be displayed even if the user is watching a recording
Highlights to identified selected items.. have been corrected

Improvements
Disk space bar updates dynamically when user deletes or changes the status of the recording to Keep.
SPDIF is muted when box is "off"/standby
Interactive content transitions with TV
Additional details in bootup splash screens
General stability of the unit.
Thanks, & it still isn't "the one" promised by the "end of 2006" for OTA.

Your #2 is incorrect. Call D*, even the regular CSRs know about this one, for the H20-100. It was supposed to happen in September, but did not.


You believed a CSR about a software update or about a bug in one of their boxes? They are just trying to get you off the phone dude.

You believed a CSR about a software update or about a bug in one of their boxes? They are just trying to get you off the phone dude.
From someone that does know what's up.

I am trying to record SD programming with a VCR connected to the composite video output on the STB. I had no problems doing this with an RCA DTC-100 but I am not getting any audio or video from the H20. I saw an earlier posting indicating that the outputs were live all the time. Is there anything special I need to do?

This all looks like it should be simple to do. But I am missing something.

I am connecting the H20 video outs to the video in (L1 on the back) of a Mitsubishi 1100U DHVS deck which has only be used to record via the 1394 connection.

thanks,

John

You believed a CSR about a software update or about a bug in one of their boxes? They are just trying to get you off the phone dude.

Well "dude", try reading through this thread and seeing others with the same problem and noting that many of us have been told by multiple levels of CSRs (basic, customer retention, technical support, and HDTV support) that they are aware of the problem and are working on a software fix. In fact, this information is on all D* CSRs computers and the can just read it from their screens. Got it now, dude?

Well "dude", try reading through this thread and seeing others with the same problem and noting that many of us have been told by multiple levels of CSRs (basic, customer retention, technical support, and HDTV support) that they are aware of the problem and are working on a software fix. In fact, this information is on all D* CSRs computers and the can just read it from their screens. Got it now, dude?

Nope. Just called three CSRs in a row. None of them know anything about an H20 update or HDMI problems. Sorry. Good luck with your update. ;)

I know this is the wrong forum, but IS this the one that makes the OTA work?
The last update for the HR20-700 was,
New Software 10/11/2006 -0xDC & no it did not activate OTA
Fixes

* Video playback freezing/black screen
* Loss of trick play in a currently recording program. When this occured, the program recording would corrupt and would be unplaybe.
* Canceled programs rescheduling. (Due to higher priority shows being canceled in conflict resolution dialogs, the background process would reschedule the higher priority show)
* Find By Channel, would return results on "hidden" channels. This is NOT related to Favorites or Channels you receive.
* Recording the same show, on channels with the same channel number, would result in a corrupted recording. (Example: Trying to record the show from the HD Local and the SD Local at the same time)
* Adding extensions to a recording, via UPDATE... would not trigger conflicts.
* Caller ID - "Call your service provider", should no longer appear if you are a Caller-Id subscriber.


Improvements

* HDMI - Additional compatibility updates
* More stability fixes
* Category guide filter performance


New Features

* No new features where introduced with this version


Known Issues with release

* Pixelization During FF/RW functions. Noticeable primariy in 1080i/720p MPEG4 recordings, while FF/RW the video play pixelizes. This is due to updates with the MPEG4 code (which was changed to address other issues), the pixelizing will be corrected in a future release.
* During FF/RW motions, you may experience a LOOPING frame. The work around is to exit the FF/RW motion and use 30s SLIP, Reverse Jump, or normal playback to get past the point. This is expected to occur only with MPEG4 recordings only


Notes

* The black screen recordings should now be corrected. However, programs recorded on previous versions of the software, may still not be playbable.

Nope. Just called three CSRs in a row. None of them know anything about an H20 update or HDMI problems. Sorry. Good luck with your update. ;)

Thanks for sharing that you have so much free time just to call D* CSRs in your spare time to attempt to prove a point. I guess we'll all have to stay tuned and see what happens here.

Thanks for sharing that you have so much free time just to call D* CSRs in your spare time to attempt to prove a point. I guess we'll all have to stay tuned and see what happens here.

No problem. It only took 60 seconds per call if you know which number to use. Glad to help.

Thanks for sharing that you have so much free time just to call D* CSRs in your spare time to attempt to prove a point. I guess we'll all have to stay tuned and see what happens here.
Talk about a pissing contest, I think we're all here to help. If not, find another pastime.

Talk about a pissing contest, I think we're all here to help. If not, find another pastime.Isn't taking part in a pissing contest guaranteed in the Constitution or Bill of Rights? :D

When an inadvertent witness to a Pissing Contest, just try to avoid the spray...

Besides, I know more about everything than everyone else put together. End of contests. ;)

Isn't taking part in a pissing contest guaranteed in the Constitution or Bill of Rights? :D

When an inadvertent witness to a Pissing Contest, just try to avoid the spray...

Besides, I know more about everything than everyone else put together. End of contests. ;)
1- yes
2-Good advice
3- glad someone does...
4- It was a moment of weakness, it's just some times....

1- yes
2-Good advice
3- glad someone does...
4- It was a moment of weakness, it's just some times....Actually I haven't known everything for about 40 years now... :D Now I'm as dumb as my parents were...

Actually I haven't known everything for about 40 years now... :D Now I'm as dumb as my parents were...
aah yes, the sounds of maturity. The more we know [learn] the more we realize we don't know sh**.

I am trying to record SD programming with a VCR connected to the composite video output on the STB. I had no problems doing this with an RCA DTC-100 but I am not getting any audio or video from the H20. I saw an earlier posting indicating that the outputs were live all the time. Is there anything special I need to do?

This all looks like it should be simple to do. But I am missing something.

I am connecting the H20 video outs to the video in (L1 on the back) of a Mitsubishi 1100U DHVS deck which has only be used to record via the 1394 connection.

thanks,

John
All outputs are HOT on the H20. Check your VCR's settings.

I am on my third H-20 receiver and this one works well. The two before had many problems and over heating was one of them. To prevent this my installer took a personal on his own time approach. A quiet muffin fan was installed on top of the receiver pulling warm air out,and this is working great. second he removed the Andrew 5 lnb dish and installed the Cal-Amp 5 Lnb dish. The Andrew dish had problems with the fine adjustment screws snapping off. Next I had problems with the 119 satellite because of tree limbs. I had a tree trimmer come out and cut limbs off. Well this was not the solution so the dish had to be relocated in a area where trees are not a problem. So this required a two inch mast cemented into the ground and trenching done and digging under the tree roots so wires could be laid with no obstructions in the way. Five water sealing type rg-6 lines were routed from the dish to the house. I am only using one line for the H-20 but the installer left the 6x8 Zinwell multi-switch under the house for future expansion.I am now very pleased with the installation and I now can receive ESPN-Hd with no problems. I do have pictures of this installation and may post them later if anyone is interested. I am going to purchase my second HD set soon . Once you see it you are hookrd. This forum has been a great service to me andI am still learning from other postings. Thanks to everyone.

I am on my third H-20 receiver and this one works well. The two before had many problems and over heating was one of them. To prevent this my installer took a personal on his own time approach. A quiet muffin fan was installed on top of the receiver pulling warm air out,and this is working great. second he removed the Andrew 5 lnb dish and installed the Cal-Amp 5 Lnb dish. I had a tree trimmer come out and cut limbs off. Well this was not the solution so the dish had to be relocated in a area where trees are not a problem. So this required a two inch mast cemented into the ground and trenching done and digging under the tree roots so wires could be laid with no obstructions in the way. Five water sealing type rg-6 lines were routed from the dish to the house. I am only using one line for the H-20 but the installer left the 6x8 Zinwell multi-switch under the house for future expansion.I am now very pleased with the installation and I now can receive ESPN-Hd with no problems. I am going to purchase my second HD set soon . Once you see it you are hookrd. This forum has been a great service to me andI am still learning from other postings. Thanks to everyone.
I see you didn't have a "BOZO" for an installer. I doubt he was from Ironwood Communications.
Because of trees & the fact that they grow [damn things] I've had to move my dish several times. With the last pole mount, I moved up to burying 1 1/2" PVC conduit for the wire run to the house.
How loud is the fan? Fan noise drives me crazy in a quite room.

The fan cannot be heard. I am also sensitive to external sounds. Also during this dish re- install we had to get a two inch O.D. mast from Indianapolis shipped to Fort Wayne. This was a one week installation for everything. Also 35 feet of RGB and audio cables had to run from my theater room under the house and up the wall in my bedroom . A total of 5 wires plus 2 RG-6 cables for OTA signals. That is a hefty bundle of seven cables. The antenna system is a Winegard 5 element Highband VHF aimed at Edgerton, Ohio for digital channel 12. And a modified Winegard antenna for UHF and FM only,that feeds other analog sets and a Stereo receiver.This antenna has No highband or Low band Vhf elements except for One FM element that is active. For the Fort Wayne Uhf digital stations the Channel Master 4 bow tie screen reflector is used with the Winegard Vhf into a Channelmaster Combiner. This works very well.

The reason that no one answered you is that...

1) there is no scheduled update for the H20s, or any other D* box. They send them when they are ready, unannounced.
2) There are no inherent problems with HDMI on the H20. If you are having problems it is local to your setup or your box is bad.


I would politely disagree with #2, I am on my fourth H20-100, each one seemed to have a different problem. The one i received yesterday:

1. Ran cooler
2. Did not self reboot
3. Picked up OTA signals better

But now the HDMI does not work, whereas it had worked on the other 3. Same cable, same everything else. I do use a HDMI to DVI (sony WV700 TV). Last night the tech clearly mentioned a known problem with HDMI, and was shipping me a new box. He could not say if it was another 100 or the 600 version.

Luckily i keep getting credits on my account due to my being SO patient here in Cleveland.

I would politely disagree with #2, I am on my fourth H20-100, each one seemed to have a different problem. The one i received yesterday:

1. Ran cooler
2. Did not self reboot
3. Picked up OTA signals better

But now the HDMI does not work, whereas it had worked on the other 3. Same cable, same everything else. I do use a HDMI to DVI (sony WV700 TV). Last night the tech clearly mentioned a known problem with HDMI, and was shipping me a new box. He could not say if it was another 100 or the 600 version.

Luckily i keep getting credits on my account due to my being SO patient here in Cleveland.
I'm not trying to start any "pissing......"
I have a Sony & use a HDMI to DVI cable. Both my -100 & -600 work through HDMI. The -100 runs cooler [to the touch] than my -600. The -600 will pick up weaker OTA signals than the -100 [because of the "improved" receiver section].
Are you receiving "new boxes" or are they "refurbished" replacements [there is a label marking as such]?

I'm not trying to start any "pissing......"
I have a Sony & use a HDMI to DVI cable. Both my -100 & -600 work through HDMI. The -100 runs cooler [to the touch] than my -600. The -600 will pick up weaker OTA signals than the -100 [because of the "improved" receiver section].
Are you receiving "new boxes" or are they "refurbished" replacements [there is a label marking as such]?


not sure, the boxes always come from Directv within two days. To be honest, i have not checked the manufacture date. I will tonight, i can't ship back the old one till the new one gets here. My monitor DELL has an DVI input, so i know the cable works on that. My Sony is only not even 3 years old yet. DVI on the Sony works because the previous -100 box's give a signal on Video 7 (which is my HD DVI port). I'm not pissed (well kinda), but i've had cars that go into the shop more often. Thats why i started taking up bicycling instead.

not sure, the boxes always come from Directv within two days. To be honest, i have not checked the manufacture date. I will tonight, i can't ship back the old one till the new one gets here. My monitor DELL has an DVI input, so i know the cable works on that. My Sony is only not even 3 years old yet. DVI on the Sony works because the previous -100 box's give a signal on Video 7 (which is my HD DVI port). I'm not pissed (well kinda), but i've had cars that go into the shop more often. Thats why i started taking up bicycling instead.
You have every right to be pissed [I didn't want to start a pissing contest (with you) as some seem to like].
I have similar hardware [Dell, Sony (RPTV), & cable] & you seem to "have a handle on" your hardware. I think you're getting "refurbished" units [from D*]. My first two were new, but the third [replacement] was a "refurbished". Normally [as a tech] I have no problem with a refurbished unit [since it has been tested by a "real person"]. This wasn't my experience with this unit. What was sent couldn't possibly have "seen a bench" before it was sent out. It still had the old zip code in the setup, couldn't complete setup, & could only pass the network 10 on the 99 sat.
Look for the sticker [not the date code], & "just" keep having D* send out units [until you "get what you paid for" - a working unit].

You have every right to be pissed [I didn't want to start a pissing contest (with you) as some seem to like].
I have similar hardware [Dell, Sony (RPTV), & cable] & you seem to "have a handle on" your hardware. I think you're getting "refurbished" units [from D*]. My first two were new, but the third [replacement] was a "refurbished". Normally [as a tech] I have no problem with a refurbished unit [since it has been tested by a "real person"]. This wasn't my experience with this unit. What was sent couldn't possibly have "seen a bench" before it was sent out. It still had the old zip code in the setup, couldn't complete setup, & could only pass the network 10 on the 99 sat.
Look for the sticker, & "just" keep having D* send out units [until you "get what you paid for" - a working unit].


Because i respect the valuable information in these forums. I downloaded the entire 137 pages of information on the H20 earlier this month. I'm only up about May postings, but it is a wealth of news on this unit. Some units are great, some are ok, while others are so-so. I have been dealing with electronic type stuff since the mid 70's. Information is always good to have. The tech that came out last week was at least impressed what i had already known about this unit. I give up on the idea that all tech's "should know their stuff" I'm sure the companies go their people every week and they must be short handed currently.

SN

Because i respect the valuable information in these forums. I downloaded the entire 137 pages of information on the H20 earlier this month. I'm only up about May postings, but it is a wealth of news on this unit. Some units are great, some are ok, while others are so-so. I have been dealing with electronic type stuff since the mid 70's. Information is always good to have. The tech that came out last week was at least impressed what i had already known about this unit. I give up on the idea that all tech's "should know their stuff" I'm sure the companies go their people every week and they must be short handed currently.

SN
Another thing [we have] in common [mid-70's] & you're a "better man than I", I couldn't get through all the pages [after a full day of trying]. I think Aug. was where I stopped & jumped to Sept. when I joined. As you must know there is a lot of misinformation floating around & CSRs will say anything [just to keep there "turn time low"].

How loud is the fan? Fan noise drives me crazy in a quite room.You may have a problem with the HR20-700. The HDD can be heard quite plainly if the TV (or other audio) is not turned on. At least mine doesn't have the "clicking" sound that some have reported.

You may have a problem with the HR20-700. The HDD can be heard quite plainly if the TV (or other audio) is not turned on. At least mine doesn't have the "clicking" sound that some have reported.
Thanks, I've heard about this & that it isn't something to have in your bedroom [if you want to sleep]. With this said, certain frequencies [noises] are worse than others [to me]. I have [way too] many computers & it's the [small] fans that are most offensive [over the "other" noises]. I guess it's the endless whining [droning] on & ...

I would politely disagree with #2, I am on my fourth H20-100, each one seemed to have a different problem. The one i received yesterday:

1. Ran cooler
2. Did not self reboot
3. Picked up OTA signals better

But now the HDMI does not work, whereas it had worked on the other 3. Same cable, same everything else. I do use a HDMI to DVI (sony WV700 TV). Last night the tech clearly mentioned a known problem with HDMI, and was shipping me a new box. He could not say if it was another 100 or the 600 version.

Luckily i keep getting credits on my account due to my being SO patient here in Cleveland.

Hate to quote myself, but when i got home, there was a message from Directv that a new H20 was not being shipped out to solve the HDMI problem. I called in and spoke to the tech, I was informed that they are "working on a software fix" that will solve my problem. Great, until i asked when will it be ready? Their answer, WE DON'T KNOW. Now should i work on a check fix when i don't pay my bill?

LOL

Hate to quote myself, but when i got home, there was a message from Directv that a new H20 was not being shipped out to solve the HDMI problem. I called in and spoke to the tech, I was informed that they are "working on a software fix" that will solve my problem. Great, until i asked when will it be ready? Their answer, WE DON'T KNOW. Now should i work on a check fix when i don't pay my bill?LOL
Since the HDMI worked on your other units, I'm not sure I would accept this. [I would] Call retention & have them "straighten out" this issue. Is this box a refurb?

Since the HDMI worked on your other units, I'm not sure I would accept this. [I would] Call retention & have them "straighten out" this issue. Is this box a refurb?


someone earlier had asked if it was. I looked at the box last night, it appears to be new. Nothing says refurb on it, all bags were sealed nicely. This morning i call retention and was basically blown off. Trust me, i don't accept this. Retention said " well you can always use the component outputs instead, same picture quality" well yeah, i know that but my two component inputs on the TV are for the DVD player and my DVD recorder. They even suggested i buy a component switch box (out of my own money of course) to solve that issue.

"I picked a bad day to quit sniffing glue"

SN

someone earlier had asked if it was. I looked at the box last night, it appears to be new. Nothing says refurb on it, all bags were sealed nicely. This morning i call retention and was basically blown off. Trust me, i don't accept this. Retention said " well you can always use the component outputs instead, same picture quality" well yeah, i know that but my two component inputs on the TV are for the DVD player and my DVD recorder. They even suggested i buy a component switch box (out of my own money of course) to solve that issue.

"I picked a bad day to quit sniffing glue"

SN
Time for playing CRS roulette. This is absolute BS. Call them [again] & go "through the drill". Since it worked on the other units, [AND both of mine] software isn't the issue. While it does seem to be an issue with Samsung [TVs] this isn't yours. I've had some trouble [to say the least] with D*s "tech support". If you can't [don't] get the response [you need] ask for the supervisor. I have had success if I don't "loose it" [it can't be extreemly frustrating] & persistent. My current"record" is 28 hours on the phone in a two weeks span to D*. In the end "they made it right". I've had good luck with the Idaho retention dept. They close @ 10:45 mountain time.

Hate to quote myself, but when i got home, there was a message from Directv that a new H20 was not being shipped out to solve the HDMI problem. I called in and spoke to the tech, I was informed that they are "working on a software fix" that will solve my problem. Great, until i asked when will it be ready? Their answer, WE DON'T KNOW. Now should i work on a check fix when i don't pay my bill?

LOL

Myself and others have been told the same thing (there is a software fix in the works). Earlier in the week, someone posted here that there is no fix in the works, but the fact that you are still being told there is one coming up carries some weight. And yes, the HDMI output in most H20-100s works fine with most tvs. However, it is a fact that this output does not work at all with other tv's (most notably Samsungs, but I may be wrong). In these cases, the user just gets a blank screen.

Whether and when we actually see this software download that supposedly fixes this problem is an open question.

Myself and others have been told the same thing (there is a software fix in the works). Earlier in the week, someone posted here that there is no fix in the works, but the fact that you are still being told there is one coming up carries some weight. And yes, the HDMI output in most H20-100s works fine with most tvs. However, it is a fact that this output does not work at all with other tv's (most notably Samsungs, but I may be wrong). In these cases, the user just gets a blank screen.

Whether and when we actually see this software download that supposedly fixes this problem is an open question.
I don't want to start [continue] any pissing contest over this issue. As a tech, logic & testing, are what I use to determine a solution to a problem. Logic tells me that since the HDMI works with his Sony on the other H20s, that "the software update" isn't the solution [for this problem]. My "testing" has shown the HDMI to work [with my Sony] on both the -100 & -600. If in fact [which might be completely true] the Samsung TVs are the need for a software update, I'm afraid this update will be a low priority with all the software work going on for the HR20.
While D* does try to resolve problems, they haven't shown a consistent capability to do so. I have found some of the best tech support @ 2 AM from their Idaho dept. Maybe it's just that I've been [successfully] doing this type of work for the past thirty years, that makes me think this way.
I want to "help" solve the problem & not become "part of" the problem.

I'm very confused about "native" output on the H20. For a while I have been outputting from the H20 at 720p, the native resolution of my front projector. But I'm sure that the scaling/deinterlacing in my projector is superior to that of the H20. So I'd really like get the H20 to output the native signal for the SD channels so the projector can do the "heay lifting". Problem is, when I set the H20 to native mode, it doesn't send the native signal. It pads bars on the sides of the frame.

For example, in one case where I was viewing a station that was likely 480i, the "native" signal that my projector received was 1440x480 with gray bars on the sides of the frame.

In the setup on the H20 I have all of the resolutions selected, and the display is specified as 16:9.

I don't understand what's going on here.

Thanks,
Phil

All outputs are HOT on the H20. Check your VCR's settings.


I AM TRYING TO RUN DIGITAL AUDIO FROM THE H20-600 VIA THE OPTICAL OUT TO MY AV RECIEVER OPTICAL IN WHILE RUNNING HDMI FROM THE H20 TO MY HDTV. I DON'T SEEM TO GET ANY AUDIO DIGITAL OR OTHERWISE FROM THE OPTICAL OUT ON THE H20, AM I MISSING A SETTING ON THE AV RECEIVER? I SHOULD BE ABLE TO DO THIS RIGHT?

I KNOW THAT MY HDTV WILL NOT HAVE ANY OUTPUT FROM IT'S OPTICAL OUT WHEN IT IS CONNECTED TO A SOURCE VIA HDMI PER A NOTE IN THE OWNERS MANUAL.

P.S. WILL THE STEREO L & R OUTPUTS CARRY 5.1 SURROUND OR WILL THAT ONLY COME FROM HDMI OR OPTICAL?

ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE APPRECIATED.

THANKS,

I'm very confused about "native" output on the H20. For a while I have been outputting from the H20 at 720p, the native resolution of my front projector. But I'm sure that the scaling/deinterlacing in my projector is superior to that of the H20. So I'd really like get the H20 to output the native signal for the SD channels so the projector can do the "heay lifting". Problem is, when I set the H20 to native mode, it doesn't send the native signal. It pads bars on the sides of the frame.

For example, in one case where I was viewing a station that was likely 480i, the "native" signal that my projector received was 1440x480 with gray bars on the sides of the frame.

In the setup on the H20 I have all of the resolutions selected, and the display is specified as 16:9.

I don't understand what's going on here.

Thanks,
Phil
I have to say I'm "spit balling" here. I have seen some issues with receivers & TVs over this. If you projector "only" shows 720p, I would try going into the H20 setup & deselecting all of the "other" resolutions [& turn off native]. this should "simplify" the problem. [I'm not sure the H-20 has any problem doing "the heavy lifting"]. I have the "reverse" problem with my Sony only capable of 1080i with no 720p support [it "down res" a 720p to 480].
Let me [us] know what you find.

I AM TRYING TO RUN DIGITAL AUDIO FROM THE H20-600 VIA THE OPTICAL OUT TO MY AV RECIEVER OPTICAL IN WHILE RUNNING HDMI FROM THE H20 TO MY HDTV. I DON'T SEEM TO GET ANY AUDIO DIGITAL OR OTHERWISE FROM THE OPTICAL OUT ON THE H20, AM I MISSING A SETTING ON THE AV RECEIVER? I SHOULD BE ABLE TO DO THIS RIGHT?

I KNOW THAT MY HDTV WILL NOT HAVE ANY OUTPUT FROM IT'S OPTICAL OUT WHEN IT IS CONNECTED TO A SOURCE VIA HDMI PER A NOTE IN THE OWNERS MANUAL.

P.S. WILL THE STEREO L & R OUTPUTS CARRY 5.1 SURROUND OR WILL THAT ONLY COME FROM HDMI OR OPTICAL?

ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE APPRECIATED.

THANKS,
Step one, turn "cap lock" off on your keyboard.
Step two: look in the H-20 audio setup & manual for the settings. No you won't get 5.1 sound out the R&L outputs.
I have a H-20-600 with the optical output to my AV & the HDMI to my TV. It works correctly.

I have to say I'm "spit balling" here. I have seen some issues with receivers & TVs over this. If you projector "only" shows 720p, I would try going into the H20 setup & deselecting all of the "other" resolutions [& turn off native]. this should "simplify" the problem. [I'm not sure the H-20 has any problem doing "the heavy lifting"]. I have the "reverse" problem with my Sony only capable of 1080i with no 720p support [it "down res" a 720p to 480].
Let me [us] know what you find.
That's what I'm doing now, and it works wonderfully. But I'm pretty confident that my $16k projector will do a better job of scaling than my "free" H20 from DirecTV. That's why I want to see what happens with a native signal from the H20. Problem is, when I have the H20 set to "native", that's not what it's sending to the projector.

I should also have mentioned that I'm using the HDMI output on the H20. Maybe that has something to do with it.

Don't get me wrong. My current setup with the H20 scaling everything to 720p is fine, I just wanted to see if I could do better.

Phil

Step one, turn "cap lock" off on your keyboard.
Step two: look in the H-20 audio setup & manual for the settings. No you won't get 5.1 sound out the R&L outputs.
I have a H-20-600 with the optical output to my AV & the HDMI to my TV. It works correctly.




thanks, i figured it should work

That's what I'm doing now, and it works wonderfully. But I'm pretty confident that my $16k projector will do a better job of scaling than my "free" H20 from DirecTV. That's why I want to see what happens with a native signal from the H20. Problem is, when I have the H20 set to "native", that's not what it's sending to the projector.

I should also have mentioned that I'm using the HDMI output on the H20. Maybe that has something to do with it.

Don't get me wrong. My current setup with the H20 scaling everything to 720p is fine, I just wanted to see if I could do better.

Phil
I'm sure your projector is very good at what it does [& for that price it should].
What I think is going on is a problem with the interaction between various manufactures and "their" understanding of a "standard". I wouldn't "short" the H-20 capabilities. In computer speak "garbage in = garbage out" or "too many cooks spoil the meal" for another. If it works don't try to "fix it". I can understand your interest [really] but until you can get down to the "bits", it's hard to understand everything happening [especially with the encoded HDMI].

i am sorry if this has already been asked. i have searched a number of threads and have not as yet seen this one. i just installed my h20. the hd stations look fine. when viewing sd material, we prefer to use gray pillar boxes rather than stretching the material. however, with the new h20 receiver, the gray pillars have a black border on the inside edge of each pillar. the black edges will vary by station from an eighth of an inch thick to an inch thick. on some stations the black edge will be jagged on the right hand pillar. on other stations the black edge on the right hand pillar will reflect the colors on the screen image.

i am using the same screen settings on my sony a10 that i used with my mpeg2 hd receiver. i called directv about this and they said they had never encountered this problem. my guess is that i have just messed up an internal setting somewhere, but i can't seem to figure out what.

if you have encountered this problem or have any suggestions, they will be greatly appreciated.

We've got the same problem, but I don't think it's an H20 problem. We've had the H20 for almost a year, but I don't remember seeing it until two or three months ago and have assumed it was a problem with the D* transmission. Our other set has black pillars & I've never changed them to check. It's a pain, but haven't bothered to call them.

Carl

I see this too, but also with some OTA transmissions, so I suspect it *is* an H20 issue. I learned to ignore it, it's a small thing.

i am sorry if this has already been asked. i have searched a number of threads and have not as yet seen this one. i just installed my h20. the hd stations look fine. when viewing sd material, we prefer to use gray pillar boxes rather than stretching the material. however, with the new h20 receiver, the gray pillars have a black border on the inside edge of each pillar. the black edges will vary by station from an eighth of an inch thick to an inch thick. on some stations the black edge will be jagged on the right hand pillar. on other stations the black edge on the right hand pillar will reflect the colors on the screen image.

i am using the same screen settings on my sony a10 that i used with my mpeg2 hd receiver. i called directv about this and they said they had never encountered this problem. my guess is that i have just messed up an internal setting somewhere, but i can't seem to figure out what.

if you have encountered this problem or have any suggestions, they will be greatly appreciated.
I think I've seen the same thing [some what] with my Sony also. I use the black pillar setting on the H-20, which "solves" this. I think what you're seeing [with SD] is that some channels have a black edge on their picture. Most TVs "overscan" where the edges are "off screen". My Sony service manual has the TV setup for "only" displaying about 90% of the picture. On a "normal" TV the picture looks to fill the complete screen [10% is cut off]. If they set it [as I have] to full view, some channels would show your black edges [which would have some customer "think" there was a problem]. Some channels have color "noise" on the top [on mine set to "full" display].
I hope I've made "some sense" to you about what you're seeing.

I AM TRYING TO RUN DIGITAL AUDIO FROM THE H20-600 VIA THE OPTICAL OUT TO MY AV RECIEVER OPTICAL IN WHILE RUNNING HDMI FROM THE H20 TO MY HDTV. I DON'T SEEM TO GET ANY AUDIO DIGITAL OR OTHERWISE FROM THE OPTICAL OUT ON THE H20, AM I MISSING A SETTING ON THE AV RECEIVER? I SHOULD BE ABLE TO DO THIS RIGHT?

I KNOW THAT MY HDTV WILL NOT HAVE ANY OUTPUT FROM IT'S OPTICAL OUT WHEN IT IS CONNECTED TO A SOURCE VIA HDMI PER A NOTE IN THE OWNERS MANUAL.

P.S. WILL THE STEREO L & R OUTPUTS CARRY 5.1 SURROUND OR WILL THAT ONLY COME FROM HDMI OR OPTICAL?

ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE APPRECIATED.

THANKS,

On your H20
Go to Menu/Settings/Setup/Audio
There will be a 'tab' for Dolby Digital, Navigate to it and make sure the Dolby Digital is On.

Hopefully that's the answer you are looking for.

thanks for the replies to my question. you're right, it isn't that big a deal and can be worked around using the black borders. one follow up query just so i can learn a little, if you guys wouldn't mind... i did not have these black edges with my prior mpeg2 directv receiver on this same sony 50a10 tv. wouldn't that suggest that the issue has to be with something different in this receiver as compared to my prior one and not how the television scan is set?

thanks for the replies to my question. you're right, it isn't that big a deal and can be worked around using the black borders. one follow up query just so i can learn a little, if you guys wouldn't mind... i did not have these black edges with my prior mpeg2 directv receiver on this same sony 50a10 tv. wouldn't that suggest that the issue has to be with something different in this receiver as compared to my prior one and not how the television scan is set?
Yes, I'm sure it is do to the H-20 & how it handles the video. The "overscan" issue is just part of what you see [or not] between different receivers. I've also had problems where the people are either 50 lbs "lighter" or are 200 lbs heavier, as I've tried different manufactures of this type receiver.

I agree, my older receivers did not have this issue.

On your H20
Go to Menu/Settings/Setup/Audio
There will be a 'tab' for Dolby Digital, Navigate to it and make sure the Dolby Digital is On.
Hopefully that's the answer you are looking for.

Thanks for the replies, I already had the Dolby Digital activated on the H20. At first I thought I had a bad output on the H20 or a bad optical cable but the the real answer as it turns out is that the TV/SAT mode on my Pioneer AV receiver only receives anolog signals. Putting the AV receiver on CD mode which receives digital signals has solved the problem. HDMI to the HDTV and Digital optical from the H20 to the AV receiver works fantastic!

Thanks again,
Tomcat

I have to use coax for audio out since I am running in-wall. Any idea how I can convert optical to coax from H20? You know it dosen't have coax out. Thanks

Thanks for the replies, I already had the Dolby Digital activated on the H20. At first I thought I had a bad output on the H20 or a bad optical cable but the the real answer as it turns out is that the TV/SAT mode on my Pioneer AV receiver only receives anolog signals. Putting the AV receiver on CD mode which receives digital signals has solved the problem. HDMI to the HDTV and Digital optical from the H20 to the AV receiver works fantastic!

Thanks again,
Tomcat

Have you checked your manual to see if the digital audio inputs can be assigned to different video inputs? All the newer Pioneer models should have that feature.

I have to use coax for audio out since I am running in-wall. Any idea how I can convert optical to coax from H20? You know it dosen't have coax out. Thanks
Do a "google" for optical to coax & you'll find converters for about $18 that will go either way.

thanks for the replies to my question. you're right, it isn't that big a deal and can be worked around using the black borders. one follow up query just so i can learn a little, if you guys wouldn't mind... i did not have these black edges with my prior mpeg2 directv receiver on this same sony 50a10 tv. wouldn't that suggest that the issue has to be with something different in this receiver as compared to my prior one and not how the television scan is set?

Are you using HDMI or component to connect the TV to the H20? I scanned back through your original post but didn't see the answer. This makes a difference sometimes.

I have four HD receivers, two of which are H-20s. One of the H-20s started rebooting recently. So, I moved it to a SD TV watched frequently by my daughter. The SD TV previously had an E-86 connected. Since I no longer needed the 720p or 1080i resolutions, I deselected those in the setup just to see if it made a difference in the reboot issue. Since that time the receiver has not rebooted that we are aware of.

If anyone else has an H-20 with the reboot issue, you might temporarily disable the 720p and 1080i resolutions to see if it stops the problem on your H-20 as well.

While this certainly doesn't fix the problem, I found it interesting that leaving only the 480i and 480p resolutions selected seems to have stopped the rebooting......

Jeff

...i did not have these black edges with my prior mpeg2 directv receiver on this same sony 50a10 tv. wouldn't that suggest that the issue has to be with something different in this receiver as compared to my prior one...Yes, very likely.

And if lack of previous receivers' minor bug fixes is any indication, it's also unlikely that D* will do anything about the black-edges-in-gray-pillarbox-bars problem in the H20.

One of the H-20s started rebooting recently. So, I moved it to a SD TV watched frequently by my daughter. I deselected those in the setup just to see if it made a difference in the reboot issue. Since that time the receiver has not rebooted that we are aware of. I found it interesting that leaving only the 480i and 480p resolutions selected seems to have stopped the rebooting......
Jeff
I think moving of your H-20 would cure a overheating problem more than changing resolutions. I know with winter coming, I've started using the heater & wonder if your H-20 is the -600, which runs hot & would be more effected by this, since rebooting is normally caused by overheating.

A number of H20-600s have been reported with rebooting problems. Some CSRs put customers off saying a software upgrade in in the works to solve the problem. Others are better informed and replace the 600s with 100s that don't have the problem.

A number of H20-600s have been reported with rebooting problems. Some CSRs put customers off saying a software upgrade in in the works to solve the problem. Others are better informed and replace the 600s with 100s that don't have the problem.
CSRs can/will send out a replacement, but no one can "select" which model H-20 will be received. It is just up to what is pulled from the shelf for the order.

Just got off the phone with Retention and Tech Departments. I guess that alot of folks have been calling regarding the software fix for the H20-100 HDMI problem. Brian stated that it is a high priority. Also that most of the TV sets that didn't work were Samsung's. In my case, I have Sony WV700 and it did work for a week then quit working.

the software fix for the H20-100 HDMI problem. I have Sony WV700 and it did work for a week then quit working.
This just doesn't make any sense [to me] since it did work & now doesn't. This sounds like a hardware or setup issue more than a software problem, unless there was a software revision update. Software just doesn't work one day & then not the next [unless it's written by Microsoft].

This just doesn't make any sense [to me] since it did work & now doesn't. This sounds like a hardware or setup issue more than a software problem, unless there was a software revision update. Software just doesn't work one day & then not the next [unless it's written by Microsoft].

I would tend to agree, however, if memory serves me correctly, a new box would have been # 4 from Directv. I know the cable works, i know it did work at some point. I know the TV works with other sources from HDMI. I spoke with Sony about there TV, they comment that a "handshake" does occur similiar to what a computer and printer do just before data is streamed to the printer. I guess that by Software to the H20 would be something like a "driver" to say a HP Printer and my Dell laptop.

Civil Engineer here, and not an computer engineer here. I figure within two months i could work at Directv and answer questions like they do now.

...Some CSRs put customers off saying a software upgrade in in the works to solve the problem. Others are better informed and replace the 600s with 100s that don't have the problem.The last time I got a replacement H20 from D* (recently), it was an H20-600.

They ship whatever is in the warehouse for your region.
May be new, may be refurb.
Sometimes a -100 and sometimes a -600.

Civil Engineer here, and not an computer engineer here. I figure within two months i could work at Directv and answer questions like they do now.

I figure I could do that today. They never seem to know the answer has been my experience. Weatherman are more accurate. The software update will be in the future. We'll send a tech out. We are sorry for any inconvenience. Can I put you on hold.

I figure I could do that today. The software update will be in the future. We'll send a tech out. We are sorry for any inconvenience. Can I put you on hold.
You forgot "reset the unit & check for loose cables". With these you have the "full set" of their tools.

I would tend to agree, however, if memory serves me correctly, a new box would have been # 4 from Directv. I know the cable works, i know it did work at some point. I know the TV works with other sources from HDMI. I spoke with Sony about there TV, they comment that a "handshake" does occur similiar to what a computer and printer do just before data is streamed to the printer. I guess that by Software to the H20 would be something like a "driver" to say a HP Printer and my Dell laptop.

Civil Engineer here, and not an computer engineer here. I figure within two months i could work at Directv and answer questions like they do now.
A tech for 30 years here. I have a Sony, a -100 & -600, & they both work through HDMI. The "handshake" is continuous between the two units, unlike your printer & laptop. I have no axe to grind here & only offer my thoughts to help. It's starting to be like kicking a dead horse, or you can led them to water but can't make them...
Software to the H-20 would be more like the operating system [Windows XP] is to your Dell.

A tech for 30 years here. I have a Sony, a -100 & -600, & they both work through HDMI. The "handshake" is continuous between the two units, unlike your printer & laptop. I have no axe to grind here & only offer my thoughts to help. It's starting to be like kicking a dead horse, or you can led them to water but can't make them...

Your right, at this point, it is a dead horse. I can't make them drink, but they keep offering me free discounts till they fix the problem. So i will live with the problem till then. That's why i don't understand why some H20's work and some don't work. Its nice to see that Directv has their own forums for questions and answers, same issues as here in this forum. At least here we tend to dig alittle deeper on issues (which by the way i enjoy). It would be nice if others in my area had Directv, but i live in the country and as far as i can see, my neighbors (all 4 of them) have dishnet$$$ instead, so i can't ask them similar questions.

Just got my -600 last week - I asked about the DVR and the tech said don't bother with the HD-DVR, it has too many software problems. At least he was honest.

Just got my -600 last week - I asked about the DVR and the tech said don't bother with the HD-DVR, it has too many software problems. At least he was honest.

No he was not honest. I have two HR-700 and they work fine. Now if you want to talk about a POS then thats the H20s. I had 4 and they all died.

No he was not honest. I have two HR-700 and they work fine. Now if you want to talk about a POS then thats the H20s. I had 4 and they all died.
Now everyone has their opinion, which comes from their experience. I have both an H20-100 & -600. They too are waiting for software updates, just to pass system test [along with some minor bugs], but for the most part are working quite well.
The problems posted for the HR20-700, clearly suggest they need a lot more de-bugging before they will work to the level of the H-20. The HR20-700 is much newer and still doesn't have all of the features working.
Quality control has been an issue for the complete Hx-20 line. If you get a good box, you're a happy camper. If, on the other hand, you get one that isn't & you're not tech savvy, you're "up a creek without a paddle" with the great tech support from D*.
The major problem with the H-20 [-600] is the heat from the unit. If you can address this with the right solution, the unit works quite well.
As happy as you seem to be with your -700, you must not have any need for OTA programs [since this feature still is inoperative].
If it does what you want, you're happy. If it doesn't, you're not. It's the same for all of us.
I'm glad you are happy with what you have. I wish all of us could be.

I think moving of your H-20 would cure a overheating problem more than changing resolutions. I know with winter coming, I've started using the heater & wonder if your H-20 is the -600, which runs hot & would be more effected by this, since rebooting is normally caused by overheating.

It could be that ventilation is improved but the receiver was still rebooting even after being located to the SD TV until I changed it to 480i/480p resolution. So, perhaps the cooler weather caused a coincidental elimination of rebooting at the same time I changed the resolution. When I am able to watch the SD TV for a while, I'll set the receiver back to 1080i resolution and see if the rebooting starts again. My guess is that it will.....

I don't know that this bit of information is useful but I do find it interesting.....

Jeff

It could be that ventilation is improved but the receiver was still rebooting even after being located to the SD TV until I changed it to 480i/480p resolution. So, perhaps the cooler weather caused a coincidental elimination of rebooting at the same time I changed the resolution. When I am able to watch the SD TV for a while, I'll set the receiver back to 1080i resolution and see if the rebooting starts again. My guess is that it will.....
I don't know that this bit of information is useful but I do find it interesting.....
Jeff
Information is interesting, how useful it is will come over time as "sense" can be made from it & therefore knowledge.
Do post your findings please.
Geoff

In the old HR-250 or whatever, the TIVO unit, you could swap tuners by using the down arrow.



It does not work on the new HR20 MPEG-4 receiver.


Has anyone found a way to swap between tuners?


Thanks

In the old HR-250 or whatever, the TIVO unit, you could swap tuners by using the down arrow.



It does not work on the new HR20 MPEG-4 receiver.


Has anyone found a way to swap between tuners?


Thanks

You're in the wrong thread. This is for the H20.
The HR20 thread is here. (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=716609)

And the short answer is NO because the HR20 doesn't have a dual buffer.

Does the H20 output HDMI and Component at the same time?

Does the H20 output HDMI and Component at the same time?


Try it...but I'mm 99.9% sure it does because I've switched them with no problems .

Does the H20 output HDMI and Component at the same time?

They both work at the same time. But in my case, as of today, the HDMI still does not work and have to use the component out by way of a componet out to DVI conversion cable. I had been using the HDMI to the Sony Tv and the component out to my DVD recorder till the problem showed up.

They both work at the same time. But in my case, as of today, the HDMI still does not work and have to use the component out by way of a componet out to DVI conversion cable. I had been using the HDMI to the Sony Tv and the component out to my DVD recorder till the problem showed up.
Have you tried the "unplug the box" reset yet? My -600 yesterday decided to show a black screen. Nothing from the remote would change it. I pushed the little red button & it self tested, bringing back the HDMI [this was new for this box]. If this hadn't solved it, I would have unplugged it for about 10 min & then rebooted the box.
Just a thought for you...

Have you tried the "unplug the box" reset yet? My -600 yesterday decided to show a black screen. Nothing from the remote would change it. I pushed the little red button & it self tested, bringing back the HDMI [this was new for this box]. If this hadn't solved it, I would have unplugged it for about 10 min & then rebooted the box.
Just a thought for you...


Yes, the tech did that the other day when he was out, no change. That's when he called Directv and we spoke on speaker phone about that software fix thats coming in 2010.


LOL

Yes, the tech did that the other day when he was out, no change. That's when he called Directv and we spoke on speaker phone about that software fix thats coming in 2010.
LOL
I would still have D* send out another box.
If you have had trouble with them sending a box, use the old "it keeps rebooting".

A number of H20-600s have been reported with rebooting problems. Some CSRs put customers off saying a software upgrade in in the works to solve the problem. Others are better informed and replace the 600s with 100s that don't have the problem.

Mine got replaced. -600 to a -100.

I'm sure most know it already, but it's worth repeating. Hang onto your -600 remote control (RC24) since the one shipped with the -100 (RC23) does not have RF capabilities (if you need/want that feature)

Mine got replaced. -600 to a -100.

I'm sure most know it already, but it's worth repeating. Hang onto your remote control (RC24) since the one shipped (RC23) does not have RF capabilities (if you need/want that feature)
This must be just like what they ship for a replacement receiver, whatever is on the shelf at the time.
My -100 came with the RC-24 [like my -600].

I have had RC24s included with both -100 and -600 replacement receivers.

I have had RC24s included with both -100 and -600 replacement receivers.
A refurbished H20 came with a non RF remote.

just got my system upgraded today. 5 lnb dish, 2 H-20's and 1 HR20-700s. I have a question though, in the room with the HD DVR I am able to receive my local HD's in fox, abc. cbs. and nbc and mpeg4 stations such as ch 96, however in the other 2 rooms wit the h20's I am not receiving my local hds nor ch 96(comes up not available). In order to receive those local hds and mpeg4s do all of my receivers have to be the hd dvr's or should I be recieving them on all 3 recievers. could the wiring be messed up, it doenst make sense to get them in one room and not hte other 2

They should be on all. Check the H20s and make sure they have been set up for a 5LNB dish in the setup menu. If they are, call DirecTV and have them reinitialize the H20s. A wiring problem would not manifest like that.

My installer manually downloaded the new firmware on 1 of my H20's and locals worked rightaway. My other H20 took about 35 hours before the new firmware loaded and played locals. Before that, they didn't show up.

They should be on all. Check the H20s and make sure they have been set up for a 5LNB dish in the setup menu. If they are, call DirecTV and have them reinitialize the H20s. A wiring problem would not manifest like that.

All the wiring should be the same from the dish with the expecetion of having a secong line running for the DVR. all receivers are set to 5lnb, thats why i dont understand why the DVR gets them and not the h20's

All the wiring should be the same from the dish with the expecetion of having a secong line running for the DVR. all receivers are set to 5lnb, thats why i dont understand why the DVR gets them and not the h20's
Call D* & have them reset your receivers. There is a command they send that should fix this. I've had to have them do this before. You might also ask them to walk you through the forced software download. There is a set of numbers that you send from the remote control at startup that will download the newest software.

Just called them and everything is fine, they just needed to update the guide data, thanks for the help

Just called them and everything is fine, they just needed to update the guide data, thanks for the helpMake sure your local ZIP Code(s) have been entered in OTA setup if you receive any OTA channels (w/ antenna).

Make sure your local ZIP Code(s) have been entered in OTA setup if you receive any OTA channels (w/ antenna).

Not using OTA anymore. I get Fox, abc, nbc, cbs and the new my27 network w/ those shows I think called Desire all with my 5lnb. Only missing the CW local in HD but nothin on that channel interests me anyways. So far happy with the upgrade

Not using OTA anymore.
If you still have your antenna, I would hook it up. The best HD picture quality comes from OTA channels. There is a sparkle in the actor's eyes that just doesn't come over the SAT. There is a deeper depth of field also. I notice these every once and a while & then remember the picture isn't from D*.

If you still have your antenna, I would hook it up. The best HD picture quality comes from OTA channels. There is a sparkle in the actor's eyes that just doesn't come over the SAT. There is a deeper depth of field also. I notice these every once and a while & then remember the picture isn't from D*.

Well my OTA was not getting very good reception on any of the big 4 networks it keeps going in and out and most of then time no signal at all. I moved near downtown dallas and the buildings block the signal so the 5lnb is probably my best bet for a consistent pic

Well my OTA was not getting very good reception on any of the big 4 networks it keeps going in and out and most of then time no signal at all. I moved near downtown dallas and the buildings block the signal so the 5lnb is probably my best bet for a consistent pic
I can understand. It's too bad since the PQ of true HD is so impressive. There are some decent antennas that might still work for you. It depends on whether you have multi-path issue or merely a gain problem. I have a 300' mountain ridge masking my antennas, but can still get channels from 120 miles away. when the weather cooperates [most of the time except hot summer].

My Sony HD300 finally died and I swapped it out with a H20 last night. I have searched thru this forum and still do not understand the format button and how it works it refernce to non HD programming sent on HD channels. For example when the 6'oclock news is sent on the NBC HD channel out of LA, the prgram is displayed as 4:3 on my 16:9 TV, with bars on both sides. I have the native set on on the H20. When I cycle thru the format button I see no change to the picture (pillar-box/stretch/crop). On my old Sony 300 I could stretch this picture to fill the screen.

Any feedback would be appreciated..

Also- I read if you hold the format button on the remote for a few seconds it toggles native on and off, I tried this and it does not work on my set.

My Sony HD300 finally died and I swapped it out with a H20 last night. I have searched thru this forum and still do not understand the format button and how it works it refernce to non HD programming sent on HD channels. For example when the 6'oclock news is sent on the NBC HD channel out of LA, the prgram is displayed as 4:3 on my 16:9 TV, with bars on both sides. I have the native set on on the H20. When I cycle thru the format button I see no change to the picture (pillar-box/stretch/crop). On my old Sony 300 I could stretch this picture to fill the screen.
Any feedback would be appreciated..
Also- I read if you hold the format button on the remote for a few seconds it toggles native on and off, I tried this and it does not work on my set.
I still have my Sony SAT300 & I don't remember it changing aspect ratio for HD programing. If a channel is in HD & they are using 4x3 [blank pillar bars] that's what you get. I do remember some channels would show gray pillar bars, but that was the channel & not the Sony.
Most users of the H-20 set the native to off in the setup screen, as this stops the delay in the H-20 changing [HD to SD or back]. The H-20 doesn't change HD programs [pillar-box/stretch/crop], these only work for SD programs [like my Sony].

Well it must be a bad week for the Sony receivers. My Sony HD200 died also. How does the H20 signal and lock in strength for the OTA stations compare to the Sony receivers?

Well it must be a bad week for the Sony receivers. My Sony HD200 died also. How does the H20 signal and lock in strength for the OTA stations compare to the Sony receivers?
If you get the H20-600, you'll get the fifth generation tuner, which is better than my Sony's third generation. You will miss the signal strength display at the press of a button though.
When you say "it died" is there any life at all. There is a service menu reset that might do something if it isn't a doorstop.

OK, I known you have talked about this. But, I currently have an H10-250. Which I love, but I can not receive all my local OTA channels successfully. The tuner on my TV will pick up all the channels, but the tuner in the H10 will not. I was thinking about upgrading to the H20,(to receive all my locals by D*tv) but D*tv said they wanted to take my H10 in the "upgrade", which I would like to keep. I really like the software on the H10, and have seen the H20 and it is completely different. My question is...What things are better on the H20 and what is worse about the H20.
Thanks in advance.
Rufus

I was thinking about upgrading to the H20,(to receive all my locals by D*tv) but D*tv said they wanted to take my H10 in the "upgrade", which I would like to keep. Rufus
Only part of your answer but, you don't have to give up your old unit. I can't think of anybody [that's read the posting] that has. I have all my "old" hardware, & have a new HR-20 coming [for free] without any hardware exchange. If you don't find a CSR that would do this, call back for another one.

If you get the H20-600, you'll get the fifth generation tuner, which is better than my Sony's third generation. You will miss the signal strength display at the press of a button though.
When you say "it died" is there any life at all. There is a service menu reset that might do something if it isn't a doorstop.

It will not power up at all. It was plugged in a surge protector and my other equipment came right back up. How can I find the service menu reset?

Only part of your answer but, you don't have to give up your old unit. I can't think of anybody [that's read the posting] that has. I have all my "old" hardware, & have a new HR-20 coming [for free] without any hardware exchange. If you don't find a CSR that would do this, call back for another one.

So, what is the trick on getting the HR-20 for free? I thought the upgrade was $99. (for new dish and HR-20).

It will not power up at all. It was plugged in a surge protector and my other equipment came right back up. How can I find the service menu reset?
I love it when I open my mouth. If there is any life in the box, from the buttons on the front, hit power -- then the right arrow & info buttons [same time]. It will boot into the service menu [if it will power up]. Then arrow to "reset NVRAM" which will return the box to factory condition. Some times [on a working box] it takes a couple of times to get the arrow/info combo to work. Good luck. If the power supply went, this won't work.

OK, I known you have talked about this. But, I currently have an H10-250. Which I love, but I can not receive all my local OTA channels successfully. The tuner on my TV will pick up all the channels, but the tuner in the H10 will not. I was thinking about upgrading to the H20...
The H20 is not a DVR.

So, what is the trick on getting the HR-20 for free? I thought the upgrade was $99. (for new dish and HR-20).
This isn't the right forum for the HR-20 [where it's posted] BUT the short answer is call D* & get the right CSR. The last member who call retention twice & had success. It's known as playing CSR Roulette. Paying for "the privilege to lease" their equipment doesn't make any sense [to most]. If D* can "get you" for $100, they will. If not they will still get the revenue from you using it [which makes sense].

My H20-600 Has had a problem ever since I got it, and I put up with it because I was too lazy to address it, but I can't stand it anymore. While watching OTA HD channels, it will reset frequently for no reason. It only take a second or so but is annoying as hell. It was flash off then come right back on with the info bar across the top. It does it pretty frequently. Is there anything I can do or do I need to call Directv and get a new one?

Directv is really pissing me off, and I'm fed up with being stuck with DSL, if only cable had Sunday ticket, its the only reason i even have DTV, but I can't give up the ticket.

My H20-600 Has had a problem ever since I got it, and I put up with it because I was too lazy to address it, but I can't stand it anymore. While watching OTA HD channels, it will reset frequently for no reason. It only take a second or so but is annoying as hell. It was flash off then come right back on with the info bar across the top. It does it pretty frequently. Is there anything I can do or do I need to call Directv and get a new one?
Directv is really pissing me off, and I'm fed up with being stuck with DSL, if only cable had Sunday ticket, its the only reason i even have DTV, but I can't give up the ticket.
I don't understand the "DSL" since this is an internet connection.
As to your "reset" of your -600, this isn't quite a reset. I true reset takes minutes, not seconds to recover from. Now, you might be experiencing a loss of OTA signal which could be from the station & not your -600. Does it happen on all OTA channels?
My -600 lost all OTA channels for two weeks. I received my D* channels but no OTA. The cure was to do a full reset of the -600. The best reset is to unplug it for 10 min. & then reboot.
If you are still having problems with all of your OTA channels, then you may need to replace your receiver. I caution you though, because the last replacement I received was "refurbished" and worse than what I [still] have. Something about "the devil you know" verses .....
Also make sure your unit isn't running too hot. Mine runs at 95-105 degrees. I measure this with a thermometer on top of the air vents. If it running hotter this will give you trouble.

I don't understand the "DSL" since this is an internet connection.
As to your "reset" of your -600, this isn't quite a reset. I true reset takes minutes, not seconds to recover from. Now, you might be experiencing a loss of OTA signal which could be from the station & not your -600. Does it happen on all OTA channels?
My -600 lost all OTA channels for two weeks. I received my D* channels but no OTA. The cure was to do a full reset of the -600. The best reset is to unplug it for 10 min. & then reboot.
If you are still having problems with all of your OTA channels, then you may need to replace your receiver. I caution you though, because the last replacement I received was "refurbished" and worse than what I [still] have. Something about "the devil you know" verses .....
Also make sure your unit isn't running too hot. Mine runs at 95-105 degrees. I measure this with a thermometer on top of the air vents. If it running hotter this will give you trouble.
I was just complaining about DSL because Cable is way to expensive if you don't have cable tv service so I'm stuck with DSL b/c its like 25$ a month cheaper.
Anyways, on the receiver, it doesn't just a need a full reset, because I have 2 HDTV's and I got really pissed with this new reciever and switched the old and new one, and have the H20 switched to a bedroom 30", and the old RCA HD reciever on our 51" again. The RCA doesn't ever do the flickering reset like the H20, but it won't pick up as many OTA channels as the H20. If the H20 didn't have that problem I would love it. It does always feel hot, if thats the problem how would I fix it?

thanks ,evan

I was just complaining about DSL because Cable is way to expensive if you don't have cable tv service so I'm stuck with DSL b/c its like 25$ a month cheaper.
Anyways, on the receiver, it doesn't just a need a full reset, because I have 2 HDTV's and I got really pissed with this new reciever and switched the old and new one, and have the H20 switched to a bedroom 30", and the old RCA HD reciever on our 51" again. The RCA doesn't ever do the flickering reset like the H20, but it won't pick up as many OTA channels as the H20. If the H20 didn't have that problem I would love it. It does always feel hot, if thats the problem how would I fix it?
thanks ,evan
I'm a bit dyslexic & it's hard to follow your typing. I can't type worth sh**. Thank god for spell check or nobody would understand me.
I have cable [ISP only $35] & am in favor of it over DLS for the speed.
The H20-600 has currently the best [most sensitive] receiver for OTA signals.
For trying to keep it cool; it needs air flow, so adding a fan has been done, or raising it up [I've used blocks of wood] helps. Where most boxes work in an entertainment center, this model doesn't and needs to be out in the "open air".
There is a posting [very] earlier on this forum that used a cooling pad for a laptop which was $20 @ Wall-mart. I think it plugged into the USB port for power, was quiet, and solved this. Other posting have added a muffin fan. I haven't needed this, but mine isn't stacked with anything & is out in the air which is where my temps come from.

I NEED HELP... just hooked up an DIRECT TV HD/DVR.... i am in an area that does not receive locals in HD.. ( by the way i have a 5lnb dish)... i wanted to get an off air antenna to hook up to the HD.DVR box, but when i bought a internal HDTV antenna the other day and hooked it up to the box, i dont think it recognized it. when i was setting everything up in the setup menu, it would not even highlight the antenna section to search for off air stations.. IS THERE A SPECIAL KIND OF HDTV OFF AIR ANTENNA THAT I NEED TO PURCHASE TO HAVE IT PICK UP CHANNELS WITH DIRECT TV... SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME, I NEED HIGH DEF LOCALS.....
THANKS

I have four HD receivers, two of which are H-20s. One of the H-20s started rebooting recently. So, I moved it to a SD TV watched frequently by my daughter. The SD TV previously had an E-86 connected. Since I no longer needed the 720p or 1080i resolutions, I deselected those in the setup just to see if it made a difference in the reboot issue. Since that time the receiver has not rebooted that we are aware of.

If anyone else has an H-20 with the reboot issue, you might temporarily disable the 720p and 1080i resolutions to see if it stops the problem on your H-20 as well.

While this certainly doesn't fix the problem, I found it interesting that leaving only the 480i and 480p resolutions selected seems to have stopped the rebooting......

Jeff

Yesterday, I was watching at 480i/480p resolution and the receiver rebooted. So, the reboot problem exists even when no 720/1080 decoding is being performed......

Jeff

I NEED HELP... just hooked up an DIRECT TV HD/DVR.... i am in an area that does not receive locals in HD.. ( by the way i have a 5lnb dish)... i wanted to get an off air antenna to hook up to the HD.DVR box, but when i bought a internal HDTV antenna the other day and hooked it up to the box, i dont think it recognized it. when i was setting everything up in the setup menu, it would not even highlight the antenna section to search for off air stations.. IS THERE A SPECIAL KIND OF HDTV OFF AIR ANTENNA THAT I NEED TO PURCHASE TO HAVE IT PICK UP CHANNELS WITH DIRECT TV... SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME, I NEED HIGH DEF LOCALS.....
THANKS
D* has not activated the OTA tuners on the HR20. They have set a date of 1 December to have it turned on. There has not been any official reason that OTA is not active from the beginning but it is assumed by many that it is because they wanted to make sure the rest of the box worked before adding a feature that could complicate troubleshooting.

Yesterday, I was watching at 480i/480p resolution and the receiver rebooted. So, the reboot problem exists even when no 720/1080 decoding is being performed......
Jeff
I hate it when I'm wrong & feel compelled to post it.
Looks like it's time for a replacement box, since it wasn't a cooling issue.

I NEED HELP... just hooked up an DIRECT TV HD/DVR.... i am in an area that does not receive locals in HD.. ( by the way i have a 5lnb dish)... i wanted to get an off air antenna to hook up to the HD.DVR box, but when i bought a internal HDTV antenna the other day and hooked it up to the box, i dont think it recognized it. when i was setting everything up in the setup menu, it would not even highlight the antenna section to search for off air stations.. IS THERE A SPECIAL KIND OF HDTV OFF AIR ANTENNA THAT I NEED TO PURCHASE TO HAVE IT PICK UP CHANNELS WITH DIRECT TV... SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME, I NEED HIGH DEF LOCALS.....
THANKS
As you heard it doesn't work [yet].
This is the H-20 forum.
You want the HR-20 forum:http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=704067

I would still have D* send out another box.
If you have had trouble with them sending a box, use the old "it keeps rebooting".

IMy H20-600 had the rebooting problem; and they sent me a refurbished H20-100. It works fine for HDTV; but SDTV looks much worse than the 600 using HDMI. Has anybody else had this problem?

IMy H20-600 had the rebooting problem; and they sent me a refurbished H20-100. It works fine for HDTV; but SDTV looks much worse than the 600 using HDMI. Has anybody else had this problem?
The short answer is no.
My H20-100 & -600 look the same through my HDMI to DVI cable. While SD doesn't look as good as HD [duh!], there isn't a problem between to two.
I've only had one refurbished sent to me & it was a disgrace. D* had just passed on the defective box, with a refurbished label on it. It had never been tested or repaired.
Can you describe what the problem is with your SD picture?
Is it the same through component or just HDMI?

The short answer is no.
My H20-100 & -600 look the same through my HDMI to DVI cable. While SD doesn't look as good as HD [duh!], there isn't a problem between to two.
I've only had one refurbished sent to me & it was a disgrace. D* had just passed on the defective box, with a refurbished label on it. It had never been tested or repaired.
Can you describe what the problem is with your SD picture?
Is it the same through component or just HDMI?

The SD picture on the 100 is blurry, almost like not focused. The 600, while not like HD was watchable. This is not. I pan to have them send another replacement; but was wondering if I should specifythe model?

The SD picture on the 100 is blurry, almost like not focused. The 600, while not like HD was watchable. This is not. I pan to have them send another replacement; but was wondering if I should specifythe model?Don't bother...

They will send you what they want to send.

The Big If is that it doesn't matter which receiver (or refurb) they send to you IF it actually works.

Swapping receivers is a bit like playing Russian Roulette? You spin the chamber and takes your chances. The "good thing" with D* is that if you get yet another bad receiver you can always play the game again.

Sure would be great if the first receiver one gets would work --- but... at least D* is TRYING to get things corrected???

Don't bother...

They will send you what they want to send.

The Big If is that it doesn't matter which receiver (or refurb) they send to you IF it actually works.

Swapping receivers is a bit like playing Russian Roulette? You spin the chamber and takes your chances. The "good thing" with D* is that if you get yet another bad receiver you can always play the game again.

Sure would be great if the first receiver one gets would work --- but... at least D* is TRYING to get things corrected???


Thats great ( stinks). I guess I'll call them again.

The sad state of technology today is we, as the end users, must do the final QC testing.
Back in the old days, this was done by the manufacturer, but this was one of the first cost cutting steps taken to be competitive in the world market.

My H20-600 Has had a problem ever since I got it, and I put up with it because I was too lazy to address it, but I can't stand it anymore. While watching OTA HD channels, it will reset frequently for no reason. It only take a second or so but is annoying as hell. It was flash off then come right back on with the info bar across the top. It does it pretty frequently. Is there anything I can do or do I need to call Directv and get a new one?

Directv is really pissing me off, and I'm fed up with being stuck with DSL, if only cable had Sunday ticket, its the only reason i even have DTV, but I can't give up the ticket.

I've had the same problem, and its only been getting worse. It only happens on 1080i channels and goes thru the full reset (about 5 minutes). I have a fan behind it, but it still runs fairly warm. It was running way too hot for a couple of months after I first go it. Is the damage done? Or maybe I just need MORE cooling?

Thanks.

I've had the same problem, and its only been getting worse. It only happens on 1080i channels and goes thru the full reset (about 5 minutes). I have a fan behind it, but it still runs fairly warm. It was running way too hot for a couple of months after I first go it. Is the damage done? Or maybe I just need MORE cooling?
Thanks.
You have a definite crashing problem. The -600 runs warm [hot] to the touch.
The fan should be on top [or bottom] to pull [push] air through, not behind the unit. These boxes need a lot of air flow.
My -600 runs; out in the open air, doesn't reboot, and a thermometer reads 95-105 degrees at the top vents. At 116 degrees it starts crashing.

mine crashes 3 times a night easy, then i need to go through the entire reboot process..

mine crashes 3 times a night easy, then i need to go through the entire reboot process..
Do you need to hear you have a bad unit that needs replacement?
Get it replaced. My units haven't crashed for... a month at least now.. :D

While D* does try to resolve problems, they haven't shown a consistent capability to do so. I have found some of the best tech support @ 2 AM from their Idaho dept. Funny you should mention that.

A year ago, D* sent me an H10 to replace my heat-addled DST-3000. It just so happened that I fired it up late at night, two hours before an unbeknownst-to-me D* software upgrade turned the thing off and scrambled it -- right when I thought it was finally working OK.

A call to D* tech department (the third one that night) got vectored to a really smart lady (!) who seemed to know every move the thing could/would make. I was impressed. "Where are you?" Answer: Boise, Idaho!

Funny you should mention that.
A year ago, D* sent me an H10 to replace my heat-addled DST-3000. It just so happened that I fired it up late at night, two hours before an unbeknownst-to-me D* software upgrade turned the thing off and scrambled it -- right when I thought it was finally working OK.
A call to D* tech department (the third one that night) got vectored to a really smart lady (!) who seemed to know every move the thing could/would make. I was impressed. "Where are you?" Answer: Boise, Idaho!
"Boise" & "Birmingham" are "no no's". They can tell you the state but not the city they're in. Thanks, I'd guessed it was Boise from my time in Idaho, @ good old Mt. Home AFB. The joke there was you could have a nuclear accident, and nobody would know.... or care. It is 60 miles from nowhere [Boise].
Sorry to anybody in Idaho, it's a wonderful state, as is Alabama. ;)

Do you need to hear you have a bad unit that needs replacement?
Get it replaced. My units haven't crashed for... a month at least now.. :D

nah i just ordered cable

tired of DTV's nonsense

nah i just ordered cable
tired of DTV's nonsense
I can understand. I tried that last month, for the same reason.
As far as HDTV, my experience found:
1 - Off air channels have the best picture [quality].
2-- DTV came in second to OTA.
3-- Cable came in a distant third.
4-- The Motorola HD-DVR user interface is horrible.

I have heard many complaints about D* equipment & lord knows I've had a very frustrating time since I moved to D* & HDTV. Moving to cable I thought would be the solution, but it really was a step backwards. It lasted two weeks.
Now that I have something to compare D* to I can tolerate D* since it's by no way perfect, but beats the crap out of "option two".
I wish you the best of luck with your move & hope your experience is better than mine.

Tip: I had cable give me a 30-day, money back offer, if I didn't like it. Then I had my D* account suspended [can be for up to nine months] instead of cancelled.
This turn out to be a smart move. :)

my system is going to be alot more involved then just the switch.

i used OTA with DTV and will continue to use it with cable
i am finishing up my MCE rig and will use firestb to interface with the cablevision box, i only got the hddvr as a backup in case my media centre goes out or something (also i am getting a scientific atlanta box, not sure if thats any better then motorola tho as ive never seen the moto box)

with so many incentives from my cable provider i cant not take it, they are upping my internet and giving me a static ip, my phone service will be around $50 cheaper.. all in all im looking at saving $140 per month, plus getting bumps in service.

i do appreciate your comments/tips but this is something ive been debating on for a very long time, all my friends have cable and i was always the one with satellite so we have always made comparisons and it looks like cable finally had the scale tipped in its favour

if i may ask who is the cable provider you went with?

all in all im just biding time till verizon fios is available in brooklyn NY

my system is going to be alot more involved then just the switch. i used OTA with DTV and will continue to use it with cable
i am finishing up my MCE rig and will use firestb to interface with the cablevision box, i only got the hddvr as a backup in case my media centre goes out or something (also i am getting a scientific atlanta box, not sure if thats any better then motorola tho as ive never seen the moto box)
with so many incentives from my cable provider i cant not take it, they are upping my internet and giving me a static ip, my phone service will be around $50 cheaper.. all in all im looking at saving $140 per month, plus getting bumps in service.
i do appreciate your comments/tips but this is something ive been debating on for a very long time, all my friends have cable and i was always the one with satellite so we have always made comparisons and it looks like cable finally had the scale tipped in its favour
if i may ask who is the cable provider you went with?
all in all im just biding time till verizon fios is available in brooklyn NY
I had suddenlink for cable.
I wish you MORE luck with MCE2005. Microsoft has totally hoses itself over this. I thought it was great & the use firestb, only to have MCE crash big time pointing to this program. The firestb works fine with XP & absolutely won't with MCE. I'm having a hell of a time using the "H anything" with it. Next step is to go back to my D11 box as it has shown to actually work with MCE.
What was to be a great idea [but costly] has been "updated" to sh**.
My HR-20 & the remnants of MCE for OTA HD recording is what works.
I sure hope "your milage will vary", as I dumped a grand plus into what is mostly useless [since it's my third computer & two was bad enough].

If this is covered somewhere else on the thread, I apologize. But I just installed an H20. Works pretty good so far, however, I have an interesting dilemma. Everytime I set the Scheduler to tune to a show on a 'Recurring' basis (Every Monday, for example) then check the events list, the wrong day is listed along with the corresponding wrong show.

Anyone else run into this? Anyone have a solution?

Thanks!

I snagged a slimline dish from Ironwood on Monday. It's not installed, but I now know [hands on] what it is.
For those waiting for it before upgrading, there isn't much change. The reflector [dish] isn't as tall as the AT9, but it makes up for it in width. It doesn't look to have any change in weight, the "sail area" looks to be the same, so wind will have the same effect. The mounting is the same. All of the LNBs are integrated into a single unit with a multi-switch. It has a provision for another LNB that the tech said was for foreign [language?] programs.
The only "info" in the manual is: use a power meter for the narrow Ka signal & it weighs 30 lbs.

What is ironwood?

What is ironwood?
Ironwood Communications is based out of the Philippines and has the installion contract for D* in more & more areas.

If you get an H20, you can receive the HD locals you get OTA (OverTheAir with antenna) through the H20. That means you won't have to switch between sat & TV inputs to watch local OTA or sat channels. The H20 also has a built in program guide for local OTA channels that is integrated into the regular D* program guide.

I am currently on the wait list for the H20 and would appreciate it if someone could answer a question for me. I found this quote through searching, but was still unclear on how everything is hooked up. Will I need to run an additional coax line to the receiver for the locals? Or will they come in through one of the other two that I already have going to my existing D* TIVO?

Thanks

The satellite HD locals will come in through the two satellite cables you already have for the TiVo. If you want OTA locals you will need to bring a third cable from your antenna to the H20.

Do you mean the H20 or the HR20 (the DVR) - since you say you are on a waiting list I assume it's the HR20....The HR20 has two satellite tuners (so two cables from the dish) and also two OTA tuners (only one cable from the antenna). The OTA tuners are currently not activated, supposedly this will happen by the end of the year, and rumor is it will be the beginning of december.

Yes, I meant the HR20.

Regarding the 2 OTA tuners, will they make the change via a software update?

Thanks

Yes, I meant the HR20.

Regarding the 2 OTA tuners, will they make the change via a software update?

Thanks
Yes.

Please discuss HDTV recorders in their respective threads (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=&f=42).

I am currently on the wait list for the H20 and would appreciate it if someone could answer a question for me. I found this quote through searching, but was still unclear on how everything is hooked up. Will I need to run an additional coax line to the receiver for the locals? Or will they come in through one of the other two that I already have going to my existing D* TIVO?

Thanks

You wont actually need 3 cables if you get a smart installer. He can just run the local line into the the switch box. Then from there in the home he can hook up a diplexer which will seperate the local OTA and the Sat feed then hook it up. If he is competent in the least he will use this method. With hooking a OTA to the switch box you can have OTA on all lines as long as you have a diplexer.

pink

You wont actually need 3 cables if you get a smart installer. He can just run the local line into the the switch box. Then from there in the home he can hook up a diplexer which will seperate the local OTA and the Sat feed then hook it up. If he is competent in the least he will use this method. With hooking a OTA to the switch box you can have OTA on all lines as long as you have a diplexer.

pink

Everything that D* has said about the HR20's cabling is that you can't diplex the OTA and sat feeds since the B Band down converter will use the same frequency range as the OTA band. The KA/KU switchs don't even have an input for a OTA source like the KU only switchs had.

Everything that D* has said about the HR20's cabling is that you can't diplex the OTA and sat feeds since the B Band down converter will use the same frequency range as the OTA band. The KA/KU switchs don't even have an input for a OTA source like the KU only switchs had.
Ironwood was going to diplex Monday's install, but I nixed that since I have a pre-amp & couldn't get my head around the dc power to everything. Or at least not at that time.
What I learned was the multi-switch requires all four cables from the dish to it. I was trying to keep his work down by mounting it inside next to my units. No luck, pulled another 100' of RG-6, through conduit & the wall. Now the switch is in for any future add-on....

Please discuss HDTV recorders in their respective threads (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=&f=42).
Now I know why we need to make English the official U.S. language - so people can read it! :eek:

This is an H20 thread. There are plenty of HR20 threads (not this one, please). :rolleyes:

For the H20 receiver (and the same applies to the HR20!!!); in principle you can't use diplexing because as rad says the Ka-lo signals which will be used when DirecTV 10 and 11 launch next year overlap the OTA frequencies. If you do it now it will work but then as soon as Ka-lo starts up nothing will work.
The b-band converter is actually an upconverter not a downconverter. It moves the Ka-lo signals up to Ka-hi so the receiver can receive them.
In theory there is an approach where the b-band converters are moved from the input to the receivers to the output of the WB68 multiswitch and then a diplexer is placed AFTER the b-band converter has converted Ka-lo to Ka-hi. No-one will know if this works until we start seeing the first Ka-lo signals next year. So right now it's best to assume you need a separate cable.
DirecTV has a single-cable solution in development which will eliminate the need for multiswitches (you can use splitters) and may also provide an easier path for OTA, but this solution will not be available until some (undefined) date next year.

Since I am a TechKnow guide at the D* technical support forum, I was privy to a report by a lead support tech who said diplexing after the BBC will work. The BBC cannot work in reverse so gender changing the ends will be required if installing at a multiswitch. The BBC is not weather resistant so needs to be installed indoors.

Now I know why we need to make English the official U.S. language - so people can read it! :eek:
This is an H20 thread. There are plenty of HR20 threads (not this one, please). :rolleyes:
Hey stranger, have heard from you in a while.
I wonder if the H-20 & HR-20 threads should be combined as there is a lot in common [now].
I bounce between the two here & can't remember (with my feeble brain) what was posted where. :confused:
English? hell how about just thinking.... :rolleyes:
No need to find your ice pick :D

Since I am a TechKnow guide at the D* technical support forum, I was privy to a report by a lead support tech who said diplexing after the BBC will work. The BBC cannot work in reverse so gender changing the ends will be required if installing at a multiswitch. The BBC is not weather resistant so needs to be installed indoors.
While this might work, my gut starts turning as I try to grasp what's going where, why, & how far. If it were easy, D* wouldn't have the BBC upconverter.
RG-6 is cheap compared to the headaches of multiplexing.

Hey stranger, have heard from you in a while.
I wonder if the H-20 & HR-20 threads should be combined as there is a lot in common [now].
I bounce between the two here & can't remember (with my feeble brain) what was posted where. :confused:
English? hell how about just thinking.... :rolleyes:
No need to find your ice pick :D
Yeah...a sticky thread for the HR20 would be nice, but it seems folks are bouncing back and forth with the H20 and HR20....it gets kinda confusing when they mis-type one or the other and mean the opposite box.

Where is the best (ie: cheapest) place to snag another RC-24 remote? Also, when I get it will it work right out of the box or will I have to program all the functions into it for the H20?

Looking here: http://www.directv.com/learn/pdf/Remote_Controls/universal_remote_user_guide_new.pdf

...it doesn't look to difficult to program it to match up to different receivers, but I don't see the H20 listed. Is the H10 codes the same?

I'm looking to have two, and use them both in RF mode. I use the H20 to feed a couple TVs on different levels of the house.

Thanks guys.

Use the remote control setup menu on the H20 receiver you're wanting to control. The on-screen menu will walk you through prompts to configure it.

Hey All...I'm looking for some H20 help and I'm sorry if this was posted before.

My system...I have an hr-10 250 hooked up and recently purchased a h20. I tried to split the line going to my new h20 and don't receive all the channels and the signal goes in and out. I talked to tech support and he mentioned that because of the mpeg-4 I need a D* approved diplexer. The thing is I need to split that siganl to two tv's and don't know exactly what I need. Any help would be greatly appreciated! If I'm missing anything in what you would need to help me, just ask...Thanks again!

Jay

Hey All...I'm looking for some H20 help and I'm sorry if this was posted before.

My system...I have an hr-10 250 hooked up and recently purchased a h20. I tried to split the line going to my new h20 and don't receive all the channels and the signal goes in and out. I talked to tech support and he mentioned that because of the mpeg-4 I need a D* approved diplexer. The thing is I need to split that siganl to two tv's and don't know exactly what I need. Any help would be greatly appreciated! If I'm missing anything in what you would need to help me, just ask...Thanks again!

Jay

If you're talking about splitting the satellite line you can't do that, each receiver needs a dedicated line back to the multiswitch or the dish.

Hey All...I'm looking for some H20 help and I'm sorry if this was posted before.

My system...I have an hr-10 250 hooked up and recently purchased a h20. I tried to split the line going to my new h20 and don't receive all the channels and the signal goes in and out. I talked to tech support and he mentioned that because of the mpeg-4 I need a D* approved diplexer. The thing is I need to split that siganl to two tv's and don't know exactly what I need. Any help would be greatly appreciated! If I'm missing anything in what you would need to help me, just ask...Thanks again!
Jay
I don't think you can "split" the line. D*s equipment (basically) needs a line for each unit to go to the multi-switch at the dish. The dish has 4 outputs. If you need more lines, then these 4 outputs need to go to an additional multi-switch (6x8) and then from this second switch, you connect all your units.
The tech @ D*, didn't understand [or was talking out their butt].
Using a diplexer is a way of using [part of] the same cable to carry OTA channels from your OTA antenna, but "keeping cables simple" will cause you less trouble.
Do you have a new dish? You won't get any MPEG-4 channels without the new 5LNB dish. Your H10 has a 3LNB dish. Your D* installation will change your dish to the 5LNB & add any cables or multi-switch you need.
If you're just wanting to play with your new unit, use one of the H-10 cables.

I should have stated that I am in a prewired townhouse. I have two lines coming into my unit, and is diplexed, switched and everything! I found the line that sends the signal for all of my channels as I disconnected the h10 and hooked up the h20...all channels are there. I need to split that line...I know your saying I can't, so what do I do?

I should have stated that I am in a prewired townhouse. I have two lines coming into my unit, and is diplexed, switched and everything! I found the line that sends the signal for all of my channels as I disconnected the h10 and hooked up the h20...all channels are there. I need to split that line...I know your saying I can't, so what do I do?
Before "we" start trying to define a "unique" coax system, What type of dish are you connecting to?

To be honest, I don't know, I know that sounds crazy but I live in a community that is all prewired. I can tell you that I do have an h10-250 hooked up now and it works great. In my com box in my unit there are many splitters, switches and diplexers in there to make it work. I have found the cable that I need sent to my new h20 but I cannot split that cable. I was wondering if I needed a 3x8 splitter on my two lines coming in from the get go? I know this might sound confusing...but thanks for taking the time to try and help me out.

To be honest, I don't know, I know that sounds crazy but I live in a community that is all prewired. I can tell you that I do have an h10-250 hooked up now and it works great. In my com box in my unit there are many splitters, switches and diplexers in there to make it work. I have found the cable that I need sent to my new h20 but I cannot split that cable. I was wondering if I needed a 3x8 splitter on my two lines coming in from the get go? I know this might sound confusing...but thanks for taking the time to try and help me out.
The H-20 receives MPEG-4 where your H10-250 only receives MPEG-2 programs.
The MPEG-4 comes from different satellites that require a new dish to point to FIVE sats as opposed to the THREE for your H10.
All of this is to say, if you don't have the correct dish, you have no need [gain] to move to the H-20.
DTV basically can't be split, but must be switched, as each unit need to tell the dish what sat to look at [which it does through the coax]. Adding a second unit would require a switch, not splitter to be added. Now you might be able to do this at your "com box", if anybody knew what the hell was going on.

Hey I know this is a little confusing because I am fairly new to all this. I do really appriciate all your help. So where I want to put the splitter to send it to both tv's, your saying I should put a switch instead? If so, what kind and where can I go pick one up?

Thanks again, you've been a lot of help!

Hey I know this is a little confusing because I am fairly new to all this. I do really appriciate all your help. So where I want to put the splitter to send it to both tv's, your saying I should put a switch instead? If so, what kind and where can I go pick one up?
Thanks again, you've been a lot of help!
You'll need to call DTV.
The H-20 "comes with" installation as part of the price.
The installer will have the switch & any cables you would need along with the new dish.

The H-20 uses a Zinwell multi-switch. I've read the paperwork that came with mine for this.
There are several models:
The 3x4 uses three inputs [one from each LNB].
The 4x4 uses two inputs.
The 4x8 uses two inputs.
The 6x8 uses four inputs [from the four outputs of the multi-switch on the dish].

If you still want to "do it yourself", do a google search for Zinwell multi-switch.

A 3x multiswitch requires 2 Sat inputs and allows one antenna input. It can only be used with a round dish and standard definition programming.

A 4x multiswitch requires 4 Sat inputs from an oval dish to get HD channels and can be used only for MPEG2 Ku band signals including national HD channels right now. It can also be used for a combination of SD programming plus 72.5 dish locals and/or 95 dish international programming.

A 5x multiswitch is like a 4x but also has an antenna input.

A 6x multiswitch is like a 4x but has two flex ports for additional dishes needed for SD locals in some areas from a 72.5 degree dish and/or international programming from a 95 degree dish. There are two types. The normal bandwidth like the Zinwell SAM-6802 and wide bandwidth types like the Zinwell WB68. A wideband type is required for the 5LNB dish and Ku/Ka bands. Right now, wideband equipment is only needed for local HD stations via the 5LNB dish but national HD programming will require wideband equipment in the future.

Right now, there is no way to get more than 2 connections for HD programming out of two cables to the building. DirecTV is working on a Frequency Translation Module. An FTM and FTM aware receivers will allow splitting of satellite lines when the technology is available. The HR20 is already FTM aware.

A 3x multiswitch requires 2 Sat inputs and allows one antenna input. It can only be used with a round dish and standard definition programming.

A 4x multiswitch requires 4 Sat inputs from an oval dish to get HD channels and can be used only for MPEG2 Ku band signals including national HD channels right now. It can also be used for a combination of SD programming plus 72.5 dish locals and/or 95 dish international programming.

A 5x multiswitch is like a 4x but also has an antenna input.

A 6x multiswitch is like a 4x but has two flex ports for additional dishes needed for SD locals in some areas from a 72.5 degree dish and/or international programming from a 95 degree dish. There are two types. The normal bandwidth like the Zinwell SAM-6802 and wide bandwidth types like the Zinwell WB68. A wideband type is required for the 5LNB dish and Ku/Ka bands. Right now, wideband equipment is only needed for local HD stations via the 5LNB dish but national HD programming will require wideband equipment in the future.

Right now, there is no way to get more than 2 connections for HD programming out of two cables to the building. DirecTV is working on a Frequency Translation Module. An FTM and FTM aware receivers will allow splitting of satellite lines when the technology is available. The HR20 is already FTM aware.
I will defer to your knowledge on this. What I posted about Zinwell multi-switchs came straight from what came with my WB68 on an "Important Notice" sheet included, showing how to connect the four switches I listed.

I'm waiting for Dtv to install a new dish( I'm already a Dtv subscriber)so I can pick up the HD channels. So while I’m was waiting I could not resist and I had to open the box to my H20. Curious, I disconnected one the cables to my existing Dtv box and connected to the H20. I then connected both the Svideo and the component cables to the HR20 and my TV. As I expected (H20 not yet activated) I only received channel 201(Dtv welcome channel) and 180(I think) the PPV movie line up.

However, with that said, I did stumble or discover an interesting issue. Using Svideo I received a picture on channel 201 and 180 . When I swapped over to component(video3 on my tv) I got the blue screen of death. No picture, nothing. Any clues????

Additionaly, when I swapped back over to Svideo( video1 on my tv), channel 201 was fine but channel 180 displayed a message stating something to the fact that HD output( I assumed component) was not supported on that channel and I need to switch over to SD( I assumed Svideo). When I selected OK( to switch) I got a picture.

Has this happened to anyone else? Is this common? Any ideas????????

You found the HDCP test channel.

I'm waiting for Dtv to install a new dish( I'm already a Dtv subscriber)so I can pick up the HD channels. So while I’m was waiting I could not resist and I had to open the box to my H20. Curious, I disconnected one the cables to my existing Dtv box and connected to the H20. I then connected both the Svideo and the component cables to the HR20 and my TV. As I expected (H20 not yet activated) I only received channel 201(Dtv welcome channel) and 180(I think) the PPV movie line up.
While I like a challenge as well as the next person, would you be clearer on what you're talking about please? Is it an H-20 or an HR-20? As they're completely different [animals].

I am finally getting the H20 installed tomorrow, and moving my old Hughes E86 upstairs.. so I will have HD both upstairs and downstairs :)

Currently have the 3lnb for HD, and they are installing the 5lnb dish tomorrow when they bring the H20.

Quick questions:
1) I should get local channels in HD (San Francisco area)... correct?
2) Since these are now "Directv" boxes (no name branded), which manf code do I enter in on my universal remote? Since "Directv" is not an option as a manufacturer?

Thanks!

I am finally getting the H20 installed tomorrow, and moving my old Hughes E86 upstairs.. so I will have HD both upstairs and downstairs :)
Currently have the 3lnb for HD, and they are installing the 5lnb dish tomorrow when they bring the H20.
Quick questions:
1) I should get local channels in HD (San Francisco area)... correct?
2) Since these are now "Directv" boxes (no name branded), which manf code do I enter in on my universal remote? Since "Directv" is not an option as a manufacturer?
Thanks!
You will get some local HD channels in MPEG-4 with your H-20.
I'm not sure if the manufacture will help you for your remote. There are two. You will need to see if it is a -100 [RCA/Thompson] or -600 [LG].

Thanks for the quick response!

As I'm reading this thread, another question popped up:

I currently have an OTA antenna (ChannelMaster 4221) for my local HD, and yes I understand that the new 5lnb + H20 will get local HD over the satellite now, but is that only for the major networks?
For example, I currently get five PBS OTA HD channels, some local independent HD channels, etc...

Will I still need to hook up my OTA CM4221 to get these? Or will the 5lnb + H20 get ALL my local HD for me (not just the majors networks)?

Thanks again! :)

Thanks for the quick response!

As I'm reading this thread, another question popped up:

I currently have an OTA antenna (ChannelMaster 4221) for my local HD, and yes I understand that the new 5lnb + H20 will get local HD over the satellite now, but is that only for the major networks?
For example, I currently get five PBS OTA HD channels, some local independent HD channels, etc...

Will I still need to hook up my OTA CM4221 to get these? Or will the 5lnb + H20 get ALL my local HD for me (not just the majors networks)?

Thanks again! :)
Yes you will need to keep your OTA antenna, as not only PBS isn't carried but not all of the networks.

1) I should get local channels in HD (San Francisco area)... correct?


In the SF area, you will get Fox, CBS, ABC, NBC, and channel 4 on the HD locals. You'll need your OTA antenna for PBS, CW, WB, and other local channels.

OOPS, Type-o sorry, I have the H20 not the HR20.

You usually need the antenna for everything except ABC, CBS, FOX & NBC. And the picture quality and reliability via OTA antenna is almost always better than on D*. Keep your antenna.

What brand of universal remote do you have? How old is it? Is it a learning remote or just a pre-programmed remote?

I have had a H20 for roughly a year. Recently it has developed a bad rebooting problem.

Last night I turned it on to the HD broadcast of the Monday night football game. Within 2 minutes, I got a grey screen and the unit wouldn't respond (neither the remote or buttons on the unit would do anything). After sitting there for 2-3 minutes, it recycled and downloaded the guide. I got 3 or 4 minutes of the football game and then it locked again.

After the second reboot I switched to 206 (the SD channel). I was able to watch the game for at least an hour without any lockups.

Thinking back since the problem started, this is consistent. I have recorded two hour blocs of HD programming on the local channels (not OTA - from D*)wiht no issues. It's only the channels in the 90's that seem to cause the issue.

Does that make sense? The earlier posts on the rebooting issue seem to show overheating as the problem, but I get locked up right when I turn the unit on.

Thanks for your help.

I have had a H20 for roughly a year. Recently it has developed a bad rebooting problem. Last night I turned it on to the HD broadcast of the Monday night football game. Within 2 minutes, I got a grey screen and the unit wouldn't respond (neither the remote or buttons on the unit would do anything). After sitting there for 2-3 minutes, it recycled and downloaded the guide. I got 3 or 4 minutes of the football game and then it locked again.
After the second reboot I switched to 206 (the SD channel). I was able to watch the game for at least an hour without any lockups. Thinking back since the problem started, this is consistent. I have recorded two hour blocs of HD programming on the local channels (not OTA - from D*)wiht no issues. It's only the channels in the 90's that seem to cause the issue.
Does that make sense? The earlier posts on the rebooting issue seem to show overheating as the problem, but I get locked up right when I turn the unit on.
Thanks for your help.
This sounds as if your box is failing. There was a posting where they thought the unit only failed on HD, but then they posted it did it on SD too.
Time to have D* send you another unit.

You usually need the antenna for everything except ABC, CBS, FOX & NBC. And the picture quality and reliability via OTA antenna is almost always better than on D*. Keep your antenna.

What brand of universal remote do you have? How old is it? Is it a learning remote or just a pre-programmed remote?


I have the Universal Remote brand, and it is preprogrammed plus learning... so I guess I could just "learn" the H20 commands into my Universal, but just wondering if there was a quicker way... hehe :)

This sounds as if your box is failing. There was a posting where they thought the unit only failed on HD, but then they posted it did it on SD too.
Time to have D* send you another unit.

I have confirmed that mine is NOT an overheating issue. Happens even before the box warms up...and it never runs HOT anymore. Funny thing is...I don't remember having this issue prior to turning off the D* HD service. Think they have crippled my box on purpose? You would think the off-air HD wouldn't work at all if that was the case.

Question - I bought my H20 from Circuit City and did the $200 rebate from D* last year. Will they replace the unit? It only had a 90 day warranty...

Thanks.

Question - I bought my H20 from Circuit City and did the $200 rebate from D* last year. Will they replace the unit? It only had a 90 day warranty...




If you're paying extra for the D* Protection Plan, they'll replace it. But the replacement might be a refurb.

I have confirmed that mine is NOT an overheating issue. Happens even before the box warms up...and it never runs HOT anymore. Funny thing is...I don't remember having this issue prior to turning off the D* HD service. Think they have crippled my box on purpose? You would think the off-air HD wouldn't work at all if that was the case.

Question - I bought my H20 from Circuit City and did the $200 rebate from D* last year. Will they replace the unit?

Yes. They will replace the unit if it's defective, and you convert that receiver to a leased receiver on your account. Monthly cost is the same. Only differences:
1. D* will replace it in the future if it becomes defective again.
2. You must return the box if you disconnect service.

If you no longer subscribe to D*, they do shut down the OTA in the H20s.

If you're still a subscriber, call and ask for the HD department or customer retention. If you tell them it's overheating or completely dead, you'll be more likely to get a repl. unit. If you just tell them it's rebooting, they may give you some line about "software update coming soon", etc.

ok.. installer just finished replacing my old 3lnb with the new 5lnb dish, and we've set up the new H20 downstairs

Works fine, with no problems

BUT, upstairs, my current Hughes E86 suddenly lost some channels (Food Network, CNN, etc...) It says "Searching for signal", and when I look at the signal strength in the menu, it is at "0"... but most other channels work fine.... I thought older boxes would work with the new 5lnb dish with no problem?

Of course, already tried resetting, etc.

Thanks

:(