ok.. installer just finished replacing my old 3lnb with the new 5lnb dish, and we've set up the new H20 downstairs
Works fine, with no problems
BUT, upstairs, my current Hughes E86 suddenly lost some channels (Food Network, CNN, etc...) It says "Searching for signal", and when I look at the signal strength in the menu, it is at "0"... but most other channels work fine.... I thought older boxes would work with the new 5lnb dish with no problem?
Of course, already tried resetting, etc.
Thanks
:(
If you had the same installer I had from Ironwood, you may have loose cables at the dish, connectors not completely installed, loose bolts on the dish mounting, etc... My installation was an example of how to do everything wrong.
The older units do work with the 5LNB dish.
I needed to have everything redone, before "my installation" worked.
By the way did he knock over your mailbox as he left? If so then you did have the same installer, the installer from Hell!
Call D* & complain. :eek:

Well.. on my older Hughes E86, there is a setting for "Dish Type", with selections as "Round or 2lnb or 3lnb".. as I now have a new 5lnb dish, which do I select?

Could this be the problem why I can't get just certain channels, cuz they are on specific transponders?

I don't think it is a problen that concerns the dish installation itself, since the H20 works perfectly fine.

Oh, and my mailbox is intact :)

Well.. on my older Hughes E86, there is a setting for "Dish Type", with selections as "Round or 2lnb or 3lnb".. as I now have a new 5lnb dish, which do I select?

Could this be the problem why I can't get just certain channels, cuz they are on specific transponders?

I don't think it is a problen that concerns the dish installation itself, since the H20 works perfectly fine.

Oh, and my mailbox is intact :)
You should select 3lnb dish.

Well.. on my older Hughes E86, there is a setting for "Dish Type", with selections as "Round or 2lnb or 3lnb".. as I now have a new 5lnb dish, which do I select?
Could this be the problem why I can't get just certain channels, cuz they are on specific transponders?
I don't think it is a problen that concerns the dish installation itself, since the H20 works perfectly fine.
Oh, and my mailbox is intact :)
Good to hear your mail box is still standing. :)
As you know the 3LNB dish is what you want.
My H-20 was working, but my other units were what acted up causing me to inspect the installation & finding what I did. ;)

If you select 3LNB dish on older receivers, you should still get all the channels you previously got on those receivers.

[wow, I thought all the E86s were dead by now....]

If you select 3LNB dish on older receivers, you should still get all the channels you previously got on those receivers.

[wow, I thought all the E86s were dead by now....]


Right.. my Hughes E86 was working last night no problem.. now new 5lnb dish installed... suddenly E86 cannot get certain channels... but the new H20 is working fine... just can't figure it out... doh

Right.. my Hughes E86 was working last night no problem.. now new 5lnb dish installed... suddenly E86 cannot get certain channels... but the new H20 is working fine... just can't figure it out... doh
I would say it's time to do a system test with your E86 & check the transponders.
If there is a bad cable [connector] you could have what D* calls an even/odd problem where your unit is not getting every transponder. This is what happened to me when I then found loose cables at the dish.

right.. just went through a system test... every other transponder (begining with 1) was at zero... all the odd-numbered transponders were at zero; even-numbered ones were at 70+ (E86 box)

but on the H20 downstairs (I just tested it), all the transponders, regardless of odd-even, were at 70-90 strength

strange... anyway, I'll just call their tech support again and figure this out.. sure puts a damper on the enjoyment of my new H20 box though :(

right.. just went through a system test... every other transponder (begining with 1) was at zero... all the odd-numbered transponders were at zero; even-numbered ones were at 70+ (E86 box)
but on the H20 downstairs (I just tested it), all the transponders, regardless of odd-even, were at 70-90 strength
strange... anyway, I'll just call their tech support again and figure this out.. sure puts a damper on the enjoyment of my new H20 box though :(
Your installer was lame. The cable to your E86 is loose. It will be a simple fix. The same thing happened to me.
At least your mailbox is still standing. ;)

Anybody heard recently about a software fix for the HDMI connection. My TV cuts in and out using this connection. Also must have the same installer as I recently lost several channels after about one week. Installer (hope not same guys) coming out today to fix.

It may be a problem with the E86. I have two but have had a little fan on each since day one. They are prone to heat failure. Switching places between the receivers to see if the problem stays with the box or stays with the room is a good diagnostic procedure. A marginal cable connection is often the case when losing half the transponders but only if the evens are the ones that go. 18V is required for evens and 13V is required for odds. A poor connection will drop the evens below threshold. When odds are lost, the receiver, an LNB, or a multiswitch problem is typically the culprit. Since the H20 works, it's not an LNB problem.

I have the new Sharp 52 D62 model, trying to get my H20 remote to work with it, can anyone help me with the codes, etc?

thanks, jw

Or the E86 is finally dying...

tommer_2a, I believe that the 5 LNB dish requires at least an H20 receiver. Your E86 will not work properly with that dish. They should know that, it states it specifically in dish manual and on web sites.

tommer_2a, I believe that the 5 LNB dish requires at least an H20 receiver. Your E86 will not work properly with that dish. They should know that, it states it specifically in dish manual and on web sites.

That is incorrect, there is full compatibility betweeen receivers and dishes. This works both ways, usind an older receiver with an AT9 or using a H20 with a phase3. The only thing requiring both a new dish and receiver is the new sats.

That is incorrect, there is full compatibility betweeen receivers and dishes. This works both ways, usind an older receiver with an AT9 or using a H20 with a phase3. The only thing requiring both a new dish and receiver is the new sats.
As I posted, I had the lamest installer who among other things left the cables loose at the dish causing my old receiver to act up just as were the complaints from tommer_2a.
I went to the dish popped the LNBs & there they were, not even finger tight.
Just another BOZO installer from Ironwood communications, who back over the mailbox post as he left.

I have several service people screw up when they take (or make) stupid phone calls while trying to work. They get distracted from the job at hand.

The guy was probably on the phone when your mailbox was destroyed.

tommer_2a, I believe that the 5 LNB dish requires at least an H20 receiver. Your E86 will not work properly with that dish.
This is incorrect information.

The 5LNB dish is backward compatible with older D* receivers. But older receivers will only decode MPEG2 channels because they cannot decode MPEG4.

Now why anyone would want to keep using an E86 is another story....

greywolf-
I just had an installer upgrade my H10 (+ older dish) to an H20 and the newer (much bigger) dish. I already had a Zinwell 4x8 multiswitch in place before, since I have more than 4 cable runs in the house. The installer did not install a new multiswitch during this upgrade- he said I didn't need one.

On my H20, I can see local channels, but haven't had enough time to discriminate if they are in HD or not. I'm in the Baltimore DMA. If I can "see" the local channels on their HD channel designation, does this mean that my Zinwell switch is ok for these new local HD channels? (or could it be doing any downconversion?)

Thanks in advance,
umbighouse


A 3x multiswitch requires 2 Sat inputs and allows one antenna input. It can only be used with a round dish and standard definition programming.

A 4x multiswitch requires 4 Sat inputs from an oval dish to get HD channels and can be used only for MPEG2 Ku band signals including national HD channels right now. It can also be used for a combination of SD programming plus 72.5 dish locals and/or 95 dish international programming.

A 5x multiswitch is like a 4x but also has an antenna input.

A 6x multiswitch is like a 4x but has two flex ports for additional dishes needed for SD locals in some areas from a 72.5 degree dish and/or international programming from a 95 degree dish. There are two types. The normal bandwidth like the Zinwell SAM-6802 and wide bandwidth types like the Zinwell WB68. A wideband type is required for the 5LNB dish and Ku/Ka bands. Right now, wideband equipment is only needed for local HD stations via the 5LNB dish but national HD programming will require wideband equipment in the future.

Right now, there is no way to get more than 2 connections for HD programming out of two cables to the building. DirecTV is working on a Frequency Translation Module. An FTM and FTM aware receivers will allow splitting of satellite lines when the technology is available. The HR20 is already FTM aware.

greywolf-
I just had an installer upgrade my H10 (+ older dish) to an H20 and the newer (much bigger) dish. I already had a Zinwell 4x8 multiswitch in place before, since I have more than 4 cable runs in the house. The installer did not install a new multiswitch during this upgrade- he said I didn't need one.
On my H20, I can see local channels, but haven't had enough time to discriminate if they are in HD or not. I'm in the Baltimore DMA. If I can "see" the local channels on their HD channel designation, does this mean that my Zinwell switch is ok for these new local HD channels? (or could it be doing any downconversion?)
Thanks in advance,
umbighouse
I think you may have been misled. You need a "Wide-band" multi-switch from Zinwell for next year's new programs. For the moment the BBC upconvertion isn't being used, so your multi-switch should be fine [for now] but when the new SATs come online next year you will need a Zinwell WB68 to get them.

I think you may have been misled. You need a "Wide-band" multi-switch from Zinwell for next year's new programs. For the moment the BBC upconvertion isn't being used, so your multi-switch should be fine [for now] but when the new SATs come online next year you will need a Zinwell WB68 to get them.That's it exactly. Older multiswitches are designed and tested for something like 950-1450MHz. The bandwidth required to include the new Ka band signals is 250-2150MHz.

Will older RG6 work for Ka band signals, or is is necessary to upgrade to solid copper conductor RG6?

Now why anyone would want to keep using an E86 is another story....

I have four lines running from the AT9 dish two of them to H20s that are attached to HDTVs. The other two attach to SDTV so any old receiver is alright. I have an HIRD8 and RCA DRD480. All work fine for there individual jobs. The H20s get all the locals and 72-95 in HD 100 - ? in SD and music on 800+. The HIRD8 gets all the same, but doesn't pass the HD channels in HD because it is set to send them in SD because the TV is an old TV (70's). The RCA only receives the SD locals and 100 -? and sends them to another old TV (80's). That is why people would keep using older technology. We can't afford 4 HDTVs and with the state of HDTV I'm not sure one needs andy HDTVs as the programing is very limited. And that's my opinion.

Will older RG6 work for Ka band signals, or is is necessary to upgrade to solid copper conductor RG6?
What is the center conductor in "older RG-6"? I have only seen solid copper.
If it isn't copper then it would have more loss & then the length of your "useable run" would be shorter for it. The higher the frequency, the more wavelengths in a given distance, the more loss.

I apologize for my incorrect information. That is what I was told by a local installer, however I see it is wrong now. You only require a H20 to receive the Local HD programming where available.

I do have 1 question though, do you need to connect all lnbs, the Ka ones, or just the main to get HD to receiver?

I was told I canot not recieved HD signal from D at my locations by an installer.
Too many trees
I bought the H20 from Best Buy
I can bring it back, but would I get a better picture on my LCD tv switching from my old reciever?
I'm using a s-vid connection now - with the H20 it would be the HDMI
Again I'm talking about the a SD signal using the H20 - is it any better?

I apologize for my incorrect information. That is what I was told by a local installer, however I see it is wrong now. You only require a H20 to receive the Local HD programming where available.
I do have 1 question though, do you need to connect all lnbs, the Ka ones, or just the main to get HD to receiver?
HD local channels will come from the "added" [over the 3LNB] two LNBs. You will get the national HD with only the three LNBs. Does this make sense to you?

I was told I canot not recieved HD signal from D at my locations by an installer.
Too many trees
I bought the H20 from Best Buy
I can bring it back, but would I get a better picture on my LCD tv switching from my old reciever?
I'm using a s-vid connection now - with the H20 it would be the HDMI
Again I'm talking about the a SD signal using the H20 - is it any better?
This is hard to give a good answer for. The HDMI is a digital signal so yes, but is it enough for you to see? I don't know.
What dish are you using now? I had a site evaluation & the installer walked away shaking his head. I have trees too & made a jig to do my own sighting of the three satellites [then] & found a place I could look between the trees. This dish has since been upgraded to the 5 LNB dish. The [different] installer still shook his head, but it works.
There is also using more than one dish to get through to the satellites you need.
This wouldn't be a "standard" installation, but it has been done for DTV & the H-20.

Quote:
Originally Posted by thebrowndogg21
I was told I canot not recieved HD signal from D at my locations by an installer.
Too many trees
I bought the H20 from Best Buy
I can bring it back, but would I get a better picture on my LCD tv switching from my old reciever?
I'm using a s-vid connection now - with the H20 it would be the HDMI
Again I'm talking about the a SD signal using the H20 - is it any better?

I have an old duel lnb dish-
I have had it for 8 yrs now
The trees in my line of sight are giving me problems with my current set-up
No matter what I need to move my current dish up higher on the house .

I too have looked around for another possible mount location
The installer yesterday gave me about 5 minutes of his time & that was it.
He didn't move around the yard too much.
I guess I'm in a really bad location but if there is a will there is a way.

Again I was going to bring the new h20 back to the store but I'm waffling.
I may get a better picutre just by moving the dish & improving the signal, using the old hughes reciever

I know that you get get the 5 lnb digh from solid signal so I'm willing to give this a try myself because I haven't heard alot a good things about D installers-

I have an old duel lnb dish-I have had it for 8 yrs now
The trees in my line of sight are giving me problems with my current set-up
No matter what I need to move my current dish up higher on the house .
I too have looked around for another possible mount location
The installer yesterday gave me about 5 minutes of his time & that was it.
He didn't move around the yard too much.
I guess I'm in a really bad location but if there is a will there is a way.
Again I was going to bring the new h20 back to the store but I'm waffling.
I may get a better picutre just by moving the dish & improving the signal, using the old hughes reciever [I doubt it]
I know that you get get the 5 lnb digh from solid signal so I'm willing to give this a try myself because I haven't heard alot a good things about D installers-
The comments about installers are mostly about the bad ones. I've had "the installer from hell" along with some good guys. If you request a supervisor for your installation you should have better luck.
It doesn't hurt to do as much "homework" as you can before.
As to getting a better picture, if you're getting a good signal, then it would be "the box" that would improve your PQ, as the new stuff works better. A better dish wouldn't change the PQ.
Going higher up is good. Combining two dishes into one down feed is done to have line of sight to each Satellite. All of this should be done by your installer [paid by DTV] as part of your installation with the H-20 purchase.
If there is the will & the way, go for it as HDTV is great!
Another feature would be the OTA antenna if you have one to connect. Since these are lower frequencies the trees might not be a problem & the HD signals are digital so you either get a good picture or not. You don't have the snow or other crap with a poor analog signal.
Hope this will help you.

The 5LNB dish needs more power than a 3LNB dish because there are more LNBs to power of course. Also, when a multiswitch is involved, the typical use is a Zinwell WB68 which is not powered while most older multiswitches are powered. Until recently, 100% copper center wire RG6 was fairly rare. The standard coax used copper coated steel. In practice, the steel coax used to be good for about 400ft but now starts to have problems at 100ft in a multi receiver environment. One receiver trying to power 5LNBs could be taxed at even shorter lengths. There is a sticky thread at DBSTalk about how a multitude of problems may be occurring because of the power requirements. When in doubt, the Sonora power inserter at http://www.sonorastore.com/510.html is cheap insurance, probably cheaper and easier than replacing steel coax with copper.

What is the center conductor in "older RG-6"?Copper-clad steel (http://www.google.com/search?q=copper+clad+steel+rg6)

"Older" RG6 was a bad choice of words. I should've said "other" RG6....

[QUOTE]As to getting a better picture, if you're getting a good signal, then it would be "the box" that would improve your PQ, as the new stuff works better. A better dish wouldn't change the PQ.


I would keep the old dish & just swap the boxes?
I would like tho get the best PQ that I can without going to HD.

Like I said before I think I can get a shot at the D's Sat's, just going to take a little time to find the correct location.

Copper-clad steel (http://www.google.com/search?q=copper+clad+steel+rg6)
"Older" RG6 was a bad choice of words. I should've said "other" RG6....
As Greywolf posted, there is a DC power issue, but I was talking about the RF signal. Steel has more resistance than copper & therefore would be have more loss at the higher frequencies. Impedance is a combination of Inductive reactance, capacitive reactance & resistance. The first two should be the same but the last should bite you in the butt [RF wise]. Thinking about this more, the inductive reactance might also increase because of the steel [as inductance is a function of electron density]. For the same reasons the DC power would drop, so should the RF.

I would keep the old dish & just swap the boxes?
I would like tho get the best PQ that I can without going to HD.
Like I said before I think I can get a shot at the D's Sat's, just going to take a little time to find the correct location.
As a tech, I have "my thinking". What it sounds like you're trying to do would improve your PQ something like 10%, while HD is more like a 600% improvement.
If you have the 2 LNB dish, then if you can get a line of sight in the middle, to the C sat, you would have network HD. If your LCD TV has HDMI, then it should work for HD. Now you might not be able to have line of sight to the 99 & 103 sats, but they aren't that far from the 101 & 119 you use now. The third is at 110.
So if there is a slightly wider shot at the 101 sat you would get the 99 & 103 sats. You seem to have a shot at the 119 now, so if there isn't a tree blocking a "straight on" shot from the dish, you're set for the 110 sat. The new dish has a larger reflector so you get more power from the sats for your older receiver.
These are the reasons I would try to do it. Of course everyone has their own, so I know you're going to do what makes the most sense to you, though it might not make any to me.
Good luck.

If this is covered somewhere else on the thread, I apologize. But I just installed an H20. Works pretty good so far, however, I have an interesting dilemma. Everytime I set the Scheduler to tune to a show on a 'Recurring' basis (Every Monday, for example) then check the events list, the wrong day is listed along with the corresponding wrong show.

Anyone else run into this? Anyone have a solution?

Thanks!

I guess from the lack of response, no one else has run into this? Or did I not explain it sufficiently for others to understand? Can anyone tell me if they think it is hardware related (I would doubt it) or software related?

Thanks!

so I know you're going to do what makes the most sense to you, though it might not make any to me.
Good luck.

Very Old School
Thanks for the feedback--
A little info on my location
I live on a river so basicly I'm in a small river valley with trees on ridge that are starting to block my view. The tech that came out for my install told me "that i couldn't get the lower elevations of the hd sats".
Now my current elevation is 32' & the lowest hd is 22' - I need to pick up 10'
The dish is currently on the side of the house about 10' up.
I have a single story ranch & the top my roof goes up another 6 or 7 feet.
Now another reason the tech ruled me out was my metal roof - not allowed to go on on?
Was he talking about the himself or the dish.
I know snow slides off the metal but what if it was mounted at the peak? The pitch of the roof is not that bad.
I have seen chimney mounts for dishes also.

I also have a 25 to 30 foot tv antenna right next to the house.
My place was formerly a tv repair shop in the 60's & 70's.
I still have the permit & Vermont tax tables for 1967!
I could try to rig up a mount on this-
Not sure on how much wind wind these dishes pick up - It does get windy being by the Connecticut River.

thanks for any feedback-
Steve in Vermont

I know snow slides off the metal but what if it was mounted at the peak? The pitch of the roof is not that bad.
I have seen chimney mounts for dishes also. I also have a 25 to 30 foot tv antenna right next to the house. I could try to rig up a mount on this-
Not sure on how much wind wind these dishes pick up - It does get windy being by the Connecticut River.
Usually the sats are described in degrees of elevation. There is a tilt to the dish to lineup on all of the sats, [mine's 104 tilt & 44 elevation] so the 99 sat is the lowest in the sky. You're using the 101 now which is the next "higher" sat. From here they all get higher in the sky.
All of this is to say I'm not sure of your installer info. I made a jig [2 sticks crossed with nails to reflect where the sats were] and then elevated it to my 44 degrees. With this I could visualize what my line of sight was, using a compass for azimuth to point it.
I'm not sure I would want to penetrate, a snow shedding metal roof, with mounting hardware. There are other options. I have mine mounted on a pole. You might think about a long [tall] pole mount [next to the house] or the chimney mount you mentioned. My pole came 24' long. You would want 2" thick wall tubing.
The AT9 or SlimLine Dish [both 5 LNB] have a good size reflector, so there is a big sail area for wind. They weigh about 35 lbs, so I'm not sure the TV antenna is a good option for it, but would make a great mount for your OTA antenna.
I'm not in a river valley, since it's just a stream, but have pine trees on the southern ridge that I can't cut down, so I peak through the gaps to find my signals.

As Greywolf posted, there is a DC power issue, but I was talking about the RF signal. Steel has more resistance than copper & therefore would be have more loss at the higher frequencies. Impedance is a combination of Inductive reactance, capacitive reactance & resistance. The first two should be the same but the last should bite you in the butt [RF wise]. Thinking about this more, the inductive reactance might also increase because of the steel [as inductance is a function of electron density]. For the same reasons the DC power would drop, so should the RF.

DC is the primary issue to be concerned with. At high frequencies such as RF, the current travels through the outer edges of the solid conductor. With DC, the full conductor cross-ssection is carrying current.

Jeff

I guess from the lack of response, no one else has run into this? Or did I not explain it sufficiently for others to understand? Can anyone tell me if they think it is hardware related (I would doubt it) or software related?
Thanks!
My guess is that nobody [else] does this with the H-20. I know I haven't. We are doing this with the HR-20 [DVR]. If it's a software problem, good luck as all of D*s software work is going into the HR-20 for the time being.

DC is the primary issue to be concerned with. At high frequencies such as RF, the current travels through the outer edges of the solid conductor. With DC, the full conductor cross-ssection is carrying current.
Jeff
Yes, this is true, but the inductance is determined by the cross section in microwave frequencies.

I would keep the old dish & just swap the boxes?
I would like tho get the best PQ that I can without going to HD.

Like I said before I think I can get a shot at the D's Sat's, just going to take a little time to find the correct location.

I'm also using an OLD dual LNB antenna, vintage 1995, pointed at the original D* satellite (101 degrees). All I did was swap the H20 for my old RCA receiver - with no change to my D* antenna. I think my SD PQ improved, but that is a subjective observation.

I suspect the installer didn't want to mess with a metal roof - if snow slides off, so can he! He may be right about the HD satellites, however. From your location, the "new" 110 and 119 birds would be to your right and lower on the horizon (101 would be lowest and the others higher if you lived on the west coast). Moving the dish to the peak may raise it enough to acquire the signal, maybe not. But if you aren't interested in the current D* HD package, you don't need to be able to pick up the signals.

The "newest" D* satellites (Ka band) are at 99 and 103, and are likely visible from your current antenna location. They have the locals in HD (mpeg-4) and require the new AT9 antenna to receive tham. My guess is these will be the locations for any added HD channels from D* in the future (opinion only).

Carl

Copper clad steel works fine for satellite signals. The frequencies are high enough for skin effect to come into play. It's the DC power carriage that suffers.

I'm also using an OLD dual LNB antenna, vintage 1995, pointed at the original D* satellite (101 degrees). All I did was swap the H20 for my old RCA receiver - with no change to my D* antenna. I think my SD PQ improved, but that is a subjective observation.
I suspect the installer didn't want to mess with a metal roof - if snow slides off, so can he! He may be right about the HD satellites, however. From your location, the "new" 110 and 119 birds would be to your right and lower on the horizon (101 would be lowest and the others higher if you lived on the west coast). Moving the dish to the peak may raise it enough to acquire the signal, maybe not. But if you aren't interested in the current D* HD package, you don't need to be able to pick up the signals.
The "newest" D* satellites (Ka band) are at 99 and 103, and are likely visible from your current antenna location. They have the locals in HD (mpeg-4) and require the new AT9 antenna to receive tham. My guess is these will be the locations for any added HD channels from D* in the future (opinion only).
Carl
Being a left coaster, I didn't think about the tilt [change]. Good to know. As you have a dual LNB dish, you're "looking at" the 101 AND the 119 sats. National HD comes from 110. If the 119 is the lowest then the 99 & 103 will be even higher for him.
So except for my tilt angle being backwards, everything should be the same with 119 instead of 101 being minimum elevation. He's getting 101 & 119 now. With some height he should be set, if the trees will allow.

I talked to 2 different people at D* yesterday about this issue. Both of them told me that with the BBC unconverter, which is connected to my H20, it will take care of the lower frequency signal coming from my current Zinwell mulitswitch, and that I don't need a higher frequency multiswitch.
:confused:

Can anyone shed some more knowledge?

I think you may have been misled. You need a "Wide-band" multi-switch from Zinwell for next year's new programs. For the moment the BBC upconvertion isn't being used, so your multi-switch should be fine [for now] but when the new SATs come online next year you will need a Zinwell WB68 to get them.

I talked to 2 different people at D* yesterday about this issue. Both of them told me that with the BBC unconverter, which is connected to my H20, it will take care of the lower frequency signal coming from my current Zinwell mulitswitch, and that I don't need a higher frequency multiswitch.
:confused:

Can anyone shed some more knowledge?

Not true, because the issue with the older multiswitch is probably the lower (250-750 MHz) band (which is not yet used). The BBC will convert this to a higher frequency as needed by the receiver.

Copper clad steel works fine for satellite signals. The frequencies are high enough for skin effect to come into play. It's the DC power carriage that suffers.So, you're saying that it is or is not necessary to replace copper-clad steel RG6 with solid copper conductor coax, when upgrading to the 5LNB dish? ( <100ft runs. )

Being a left coaster, I didn't think about the tilt [change]. Good to know. As you have a dual LNB dish, you're "looking at" the 101 AND the 119 sats. National HD comes from 110. If the 119 is the lowest then the 99 & 103 will be even higher for him.

Actually, I pre-date the dual LNB that looks at 101 & 119. When D* started, you needed a "dual LNB" (that looked at only 101) to allow two receivers to display different channels. I assumed thebrowndogg21 had a similar setup when he said he had an old antenna.

Launch of the second bird and technology that put all signals on all down leads made that unnecessary. What I'd really like to try is using the Ka-Ku LNB component and associated multi-switch on the old dish pointed at 101, since I'm not interested in the mpeg-2 HD or SD locals from 110/119.

Carl

Not true, because the issue with the older multiswitch is probably the lower (250-750 MHz) band (which is not yet used). The BBC will convert this to a higher frequency as needed by the receiver.
I think the waters are getting muddy. The Zinwell switch [paperwork] show how or what to do if you're using the dish & OTA antenna connected to their switch. This suggests it will pass the low frequencies, which would then point to the upper frequencies needing their "wide band" switch.
Does anybody still "trust" what they hear from D*? If so wait 10 min, as it will change.
If the older switches would work in the new systems, why would Zinwell make [sell] a wide-band switch for DTV? :p

Actually, I pre-date the dual LNB that looks at 101 & 119. When D* started, you needed a "dual LNB" (that looked at only 101) to allow two receivers to display different channels. I assumed thebrowndogg21 had a similar setup when he said he had an old antenna.
Launch of the second bird and technology that put all signals on all down leads made that unnecessary. What I'd really like to try is using the Ka-Ku LNB component and associated multi-switch on the old dish pointed at 101, since I'm not interested in the mpeg-2 HD or SD locals from 110/119.
Carl
You've got me. I'm a new comer by comparison.
So you want to use the new LNBs mounted on an old reflector?
It might work, but I doubt you will have enough received power. The multi LNB/switch would need to be skewed for the 101 sat, as the A sat LNB is not the center LNB [C sat] and the old reflector is focused to the center.
What would be your goal or why would you want to do this? :confused:

When D* started, you needed a "dual LNB" (that looked at only 101) to allow two receivers to display different channels. I assumed thebrowndogg21 had a similar setup when he said he had an old antenna.

Carl is correct here - I am only currently pointing at the 101

What I was hoping to do is attach the new dish to the tv anttena I have in my front yard.
Someone ealier had replyed that this may not be the best thing to do -
What I have is a 25'+ tower I guees -
It is similar to the ones at solid signal - Pretty heavy duty

This may get me over the trees-
Again I concerned about wind -

Steve - Browndogg21

.I am only currently pointing at the 101
What I was hoping to do is attach the new dish to the tv anttena I have in my front yard.
Someone ealier had replyed that this may not be the best thing to do -
What I have is a 25'+ tower I guees -
It is similar to the ones at solid signal - Pretty heavy duty
This may get me over the trees-
Again I concerned about wind -
Steve - Browndogg21
35 lbs & 2 square feet of sail hanging off you mast? "Pretty heavy duty" should be VERY heavy duty. Thick-wall tubing is much more than any antenna mast tubing I've seen. Around here it comes from the [chain link] fencing store.
As I posted earlier, it's hard for me to understand what you're looking to gain, without upgrading to multiple satellite reception. Half the programing I watch comes off the 119 "B" sat [for SD channels] & using a HD receiver to "just" improve SD PQ doesn't sound like it's worth the effort that it will take for you. If you're going to put the work into it, I would go for the maximum gain.
You should do as I did & make up a tool to see where you're trying to point any dish, so you have a good idea of what you can or can't do. This should determine where the dish needs to be.

Old School
I'm trying to find a location for the new 5lnb dish - Sorry for not being clear on this-
My goal is to figure out an location for the new set-up

I bought the h20 from "Best Guys" was debating about returning it or replacing my old Hughes box.
My old box locks up about once or twice a month.
That's why I was asking about the Pq - I guess I was trying to justify to myself the 100 cost of the new box.


But after reading your replies, I got to thinking I could find a location for the Ku/Ka dish. Like I have read before, the common install guys is going to just look at the sitution & say - You can't get the signal.

I will try to rig up a tool like you discribed & see what I got!


Oh yah-
The mast I was taking was put up sometime in the early 70's
I'm not sure how to post a link to an example -
It is 3 tube construction with crossing supports, a hindged base to in mounted to a good sized steel post that in concrete.
I would bet that this did not come from chain link fence store.
I currenty have a uhf/vhf antenna on it that is larger than I am!

Old School
I'm trying to find a location for the new 5lnb dish. That's why I was asking about the Pq - I guess I was trying to justify to myself the 100 cost of the new box.
But after reading your replies, I got to thinking I could find a location for the Ku/Ka dish. Like I have read before, the common install guys is going to just look at the sitution & say - You can't get the signal.
I will try to rig up a tool like you discribed & see what I got!
Oh yah-
The mast I was taking is 3 tube construction with crossing supports, a hindged base to in mounted to a good sized steel post that in concrete.
I would bet that this did not come from chain link fence store.
I currenty have a uhf/vhf antenna on it that is larger than I am!
This is starting to make sense to me. You should be able to get some of your $100 back from D* in programing credits. I'm a cheap SOB, so I understand.
As to the thick wall, think of 2" steel water pipe thickness. This isn't used in antenna masts. Your 3 tube, cross-braced, mast is more than normal, but I would guess the tubing might kink with the new dish hanging off the side of it. I have some experience with steel tubing. With this said, you might get creative and fab something that would spread the load enough. What comes with the dish isn't enough, IMHO. Also you would need to get to the dish to adjust it, so think of the need for a ladder to get to it.
A pole next to your house that is anchored to the house [near the top] was my thought so the ladder could lean on the house.
For the "tool", I used some 1x2, nails, & geometry to get the nails in the right place. Grade school stuff, so it should be tuff.
It will be worth the effort if you can get it to work.

Here's another approach to locating the various satellites.
http://perso.numericable.fr/~gjullien/satellite.htm

DTV just upgraded my system with the 5 lnb dish and H20-100.
Sorry if this has been asked before but 144 pages are a lot to swim through. My question is on the H20 it picks up the local area hd channels and you can see them on the guide. But the local area standard channels are no where to be found and not shown on the guide. I can get them if I hook up the ant staight to the tv but not to the h20, does the h20 pick up standard channels and show them on the guide or do I need to spilt the ant. cable and switch between sat and ant. to watch them?

DTV just upgraded my system with the 5 lnb dish and H20-100.
Sorry if this has been asked before but 144 pages are a lot to swim through. My question is on the H20 it picks up the local area hd channels and you can see them on the guide. But the local area standard channels are no where to be found and not shown on the guide. I can get them if I hook up the ant staight to the tv but not to the h20, does the h20 pick up standard channels and show them on the guide or do I need to spilt the ant. cable and switch between sat and ant. to watch them?
The H-20 doesn't have a "standard" tuner, so you can't get them with it. It will receive SD channels from DTV, local HD OTA, & local HD from DTV.
If you want local OTA SD channels, then you will need to use your TV tuner.

The H-20 doesn't have a "standard" tuner, so you can't get them with it. It will receive SD channels from DTV, local HD OTA, & local HD from DTV.
If you want local OTA SD channels, then you will need to use your TV tuner.
OK thanks

DTV just upgraded my system with the 5 lnb dish and H20-100.
Sorry if this has been asked before but 144 pages are a lot to swim through. My question is on the H20 it picks up the local area hd channels and you can see them on the guide. But the local area standard channels are no where to be found and not shown on the guide. I can get them if I hook up the ant staight to the tv but not to the h20, does the h20 pick up standard channels and show them on the guide or do I need to spilt the ant. cable and switch between sat and ant. to watch them?
I'm not sure I understand VeryOldSchool's answer, but in my case one of my locals is CBS Channel 4. Through the H20 and in the guide I have 4, BN4, 4-1. The 4 is the local HD the BN4 is the local SD and the 4-1 is the OTA HD. All have the exact same programming. 4 and BN 4 are received by the AT9 dish and 4-1 is received by the UHF HD antenna and both come to the H20 via separate RG-6 cables.

I'm not sure I understand VeryOldSchool's answer, but in my case one of my locals is CBS Channel 4. Through the H20 and in the guide I have 4, BN4, 4-1. The 4 is the local HD the BN4 is the local SD and the 4-1 is the OTA HD. All have the exact same programming. 4 and BN 4 are received by the AT9 dish and 4-1 is received by the UHF HD antenna and both come to the H20 via separate RG-6 cables.
He was talking about OTA SD channels which the H-20 can't receive because it doesn't have an analog tuner.
Your answer is correct for what the H-20 receives :)

Connect the antenna to your TV's analog tuner to receive analog OTA (OverTheAir) channels.
The H20 only has a digital OTA tuner.

I haven't read the 108 pages of this thread, but a question..

My HD channels have a yellowish tint to them when I watch them. The grass on the football field is more yellow than green.

When I watch a non HD channel and/or OTA HD channels, they look fine. I'm connected via video component cables to a 42" sammy DLP. Movies look fine, etc.

Why would my HD channels be yellowed? How can I fix this?

I haven't read the 108 pages of this thread, but a question..
My HD channels have a yellowish tint to them when I watch them. The grass on the football field is more yellow than green.
When I watch a non HD channel and/or OTA HD channels, they look fine. I'm connected via video component cables to a 42" sammy DLP. Movies look fine, etc.
Why would my HD channels be yellowed? How can I fix this?
If you're lucky, a future software upgrade might resolve this.
I've seen a some what similar color shift between OTA HD channels [the best PQ] and D* HD MPEG-4 channels. At the time I had cable also, and their HD channels were even worse. The grass looked dead.
The new software for the HR-20 has improved the PQ to the point where it looks so good I haven't even bothered to try a comparison [again].
This isn't going to "fix" your problem, but I hope it will give you some idea(s).

Sorry if this is a repeat question, but has anyone tackled trying to record with the H20? My old Sony A55, did EVERYTHING. Will this thing (H20) record for me, I can't find anything in the menu for VCR control.

[The H20 is not a DVR.]

If you're trying to get the H20 to turn a VCR on/off for timed recordings, you can't. That feature was omitted from all new DirecTV HD receivers, probably to make recording more difficult so you would consider getting a DVR....

[The H20 is not a DVR.]

If you're trying to get the H20 to turn a VCR on/off for timed recordings, you can't. That feature was omitted from all new DirecTV HD receivers, probably to make recording more difficult so you would consider getting a DVR....


DARN!!! I knew this deep down in my heart, but was hoping to hear that maybe I was doing something wrong. I even told my son, Mr. Gadget Wiz, that they probably did this so we could go out and buy the DVR. I'm not happy with these new fangled changes that DirecTv is doing. I am an old fashioned type of guy (still use dial up, GASP!) Thanks for the update.

DARN!!! I knew this deep down in my heart, but was hoping to hear that maybe I was doing something wrong. I even told my son, Mr. Gadget Wiz, that they probably did this so we could go out and buy the DVR. I'm not happy with these new fangled changes that DirecTv is doing. I am an old fashioned type of guy (still use dial up, GASP!) Thanks for the update.
You might call D* and complain about this. They have been giving away their leased recorder (HR-20) for free to those who have pushed them hard enough. It usually takes a couple of calls to get a CSR that will help. Try being transferred to customer retention as they've been more helpful. Since all the new hardware is now leased, it doesn't make sense [dollars] to "pay for the privilege" to lease their hardware, which would be return in the end. They seemed to have most of the bugs worked out now with the latest software for the HR-20.
"Old fashioned?" I still have touchtone phones that ring bells, but broadband is the way to go, & dialup sucks. Some steps into the 21st century are good.

yarvis,
you're most welcome.

...Some steps into the 21st century are good.Where available....

Where available....
I would think "Staten Island, NY." qualifies, as opposed to so many other places.

I replaced my 3 LNB DTV dish with a 5 LNB slim line style antenna yesterday. The receiver reported improved signal levels (2-5 points) on the 101A, 110C, and 119B satellites. I can also now receive Boston market MPEG 4 HD stations with my H-20 (4 - 5 - 7- 25). The receiver test says 99 block 11 is OK but 99 block 10 and 103 fails. It says it can detect only 4 of the 5 satellites. Is this a symptom of a bad LNB, or could my tilt adjustment be a little off perhaps? I tried with and without the in line converter. There is also a Zinwell WB68 in the path.

I tried to search this forum but didn't turn up anything related. I'm sure all the satellites are seen from the antenna location.

Thanks

It sounds like the H20 bug that misreports reception on some Ka band satellites. If you aren't missing any channels, you are okay.

I replaced my 3 LNB DTV dish with a 5 LNB slim line style antenna yesterday. The receiver reported improved signal levels (2-5 points) on the 101A, 110C, and 119B satellites. I can also now receive Boston market MPEG 4 HD stations with my H-20 (4 - 5 - 7- 25). The receiver test says 99 block 11 is OK but 99 block 10 and 103 fails. It says it can detect only 4 of the 5 satellites. Is this a symptom of a bad LNB, or could my tilt adjustment be a little off perhaps? I tried with and without the in line converter. There is also a Zinwell WB68 in the path.
I tried to search this forum but didn't turn up anything related. I'm sure all the satellites are seen from the antenna location.
Thanks
This sounds like you have a H-20-600. If you had a H-20-100 you would fail the 99 & pass the 103.
This is another way to say it's software & not your dish.

If you're lucky, a future software upgrade might resolve this.
I've seen a some what similar color shift between OTA HD channels [the best PQ] and D* HD MPEG-4 channels. At the time I had cable also, and their HD channels were even worse. The grass looked dead.
The new software for the HR-20 has improved the PQ to the point where it looks so good I haven't even bothered to try a comparison [again].
This isn't going to "fix" your problem, but I hope it will give you some idea(s).

Any idea when a new software patch is coming up? It's ridiculous that I spent this money and get crap in return. I may call D and get a new one sent to me.

Any idea when a new software patch is coming up? It's ridiculous that I spent this money and get crap in return. I may call D and get a new one sent to me.
D* software people are tied up with the HR-20. I've asked them to update the H-20 with the "good" software from the HR-20, but there's no date yet.
If your PQ is that bad, you can try another receiver. It shouldn't hurt [but you might get other problems].

It sounds like the H20 bug that misreports reception on some Ka band satellites. If you aren't missing any channels, you are okay.

This sounds like you have a H-20-600. If you had a H-20-100 you would fail the 99 & pass the 103.This is another way to say it's software & not your dish.

Thanks Guys. I appreciate the response.

You might call D* and complain about this. They have been giving away their leased recorder (HR-20) for free to those who have pushed them hard enough. It usually takes a couple of calls to get a CSR that will help. Try being transferred to customer retention as they've been more helpful. Since all the new hardware is now leased, it doesn't make sense [dollars] to "pay for the privilege" to lease their hardware, which would be return in the end. They seemed to have most of the bugs worked out now with the latest software for the HR-20.
"Old fashioned?" I still have touchtone phones that ring bells, but broadband is the way to go, & dialup sucks. Some steps into the 21st century are good.


Very:
Believe me, I tried to "score" one of those new fangled DVR's the day BEFORE the techs (or kids In my case) came to install the H20. It seems that a day or two before my install date, they sent me an email and asked me to "keep" my service with them and they were offering three things, one was a HD box, a HD DVR box, or some free PPV movies. When I saw the ad, I tried to get the free HD DVR box and was told to no avail I might ad, that because my appointment was for the next day, they couldn't give me the free DVR. Which turns out, I would have to subscribe to that service as well. I hemmed and hawwed and got them to knock $10 off a month for a year, but somehow I feel I am getting screwed. I have been a customer since they came on the scene. (Heck I had 2 OLD Sony's an A55 and B50 sat boxes.) At this point i'm going to hold off from the DVR thing because I am starting to think I might want to check out Dish Network or gasp, digital cable. And I agree, dial up blows, but I am used to it's slow speed and for what I use it for, it works for me.

Very:
Believe me, I tried to "score" one of those new fangled DVR's the day BEFORE the techs (or kids In my case) came to install the H20. Which turns out, I would have to subscribe to that service as well. I hemmed and hawwed and got them to knock $10 off a month for a year, but somehow I feel I am getting screwed. I have been a customer since they came on the scene. (Heck I had 2 OLD Sony's an A55 and B50 sat boxes.) At this point i'm going to hold off from the DVR thing because I am starting to think I might want to check out Dish Network or gasp, digital cable.
First question: Do you lease your H20? If so, then you're in a two year programing commitment.
Second: "Jumping ship" won't be an option if so.
Stock of the HR-20 was short, but that doesn't stop D* from adding you to the list. I had to wait 30 days. "The service" is either a dollar more or six dollars more a month over the cost of renting one receiver.
I'm not trying to spend your money, that's for you to do. I just want you to get the "most bang" for your buck & not listen to dumb DTV CSRs. It takes some pushing to get one for free, BUT if you're ready to "jump ship" this is [was] where to [I] call customer retention & leaned on them for the free HD DVR.
There is some rumor that DTV will next year add 150 HD channels for us.
The ball is now in your court. I just wanted you to have a "heads up" for your bucks.

There is some rumor that DTV will next year add 150 HD channels for us.

What D* has announced is once D10 and D11 satellites go up they will have the capacity for 150 national HD channels, not necessarly start providing 150 national HD channels at that time.

What D* has announced is once D10 and D11 satellites go up they will have the capacity for 150 national HD channels, not necessarly start providing 150 national HD channels at that time.
I've heard a little more about this from D*, but I'll believe it when I see it [like everything].

...The mast I was taking was put up sometime in the early 70's
I'm not sure how to post a link to an example...
Is it a tower?

If it is, and if it's like mine, it's quite sturdy and can support a fairly large sat dish. That's where the wildblue installers put my sat. internet dish, which is similar in size of the 5LNB D* dish. They just used clamps to attach it to one of the 3 tower posts.

Is this similar to your tower?
http://tinypic.com/2hdntpc.jpg

http://i7.tinypic.com/264jq4z.jpg

Is it a tower?
If it is, and if it's like mine, it's quite sturdy and can support a fairly large sat dish.
WOW! Now that's an antennae mast.

Quite common around here actually.

There are 3 cities nearby with TV stations - one is 45 miles SW and the others are 60 to 70 mi NW & NE of here.

http://tinypic.com/2v8s77s.jpg

Quite common around here actually.
There are 3 cities nearby with TV stations - one is 45 miles SW and the others are 60 to 70 mi NW & NE of here.
I have a 30' pole, a mountain ridge 300' higher blocking the line of sight, and get signals from 62 miles [closest] to 122 miles [farthest].

I have loved my D* ever since installation approximately 12 years ago. My Hughes D45 receiver gives me great PQ, fast menus, and it has that wonderful thingy that starts my VCR.

I am finally going to make the move to HD so I picked up my Panny 42 plasma and my H20-600 from BB yesterday. Now, reading through a majority of this thread I'm having second thoughts about going with D* and H20-600 and two year commitment. I'm wondering if I should jump to Comcast Cable. I tested the local OTA HD signal from my existing OTA antenna and got beautiful reception on all of my local OTA HD stations so I could stick with D* but my main goal is to get the BEST PQ on BOTH SD and HD.

Has anyone tried both Comcast and D* (H20-600) and can comment on which technology will give me the best PQ? I know I will loose my automatic recording thingy and the menus might be slower but I will keep my old faithful Hughes and use it on another TV and hook my VCR up to it.

Thanks in advance for the feedback!

It depends on how good or how crappy comscat is in your area and what STBs you end up with (some of them are good - some are awful). Check the local info thread for your town, to get opinions of the local cableco there.

Of all the D* receivers, the H20-600 probably has the best HD & SD PQ. And the H20-600 has the best OTA tuner of all the D* HD receivers. Downside, their failure rate has been pretty high, but comscat's STB track record is hardly any better, if at all.

OTA will nearly always give you the best picture quality for local broadcast HD channels, and you eliminate the 3rd party (sat or cableco) in the middle, which is a potential source of trouble.

I should have added DishTV as another choice.

You are only hearing about the minority. I had an H20 w/in the first week they were available in my area, and got my HR20 almost as soon as they were available.

H20 has worked exactly as designed since day 1, and other than a few niggling software issues they will be workign on system wide, the Hr20 has been fine.

If I were you, I would call Dave and get a heckuva deal on an HR20. It has an OTA tuner that they say will be turned on next month.



I have loved my D* ever since installation approximately 12 years ago. My Hughes D45 receiver gives me great PQ, fast menus, and it has that wonderful thingy that starts my VCR.

I am finally going to make the move to HD so I picked up my Panny 42 plasma and my H20-600 from BB yesterday. Now, reading through a majority of this thread I'm having second thoughts about going with D* and H20-600 and two year commitment. I'm wondering if I should jump to Comcast Cable. I tested the local OTA HD signal from my existing OTA antenna and got beautiful reception on all of my local OTA HD stations so I could stick with D* but my main goal is to get the BEST PQ on BOTH SD and HD.

Has anyone tried both Comcast and D* (H20-600) and can comment on which technology will give me the best PQ? I know I will loose my automatic recording thingy and the menus might be slower but I will keep my old faithful Hughes and use it on another TV and hook my VCR up to it.

Thanks in advance for the feedback!

I should have added DishTV as another choice.
I was exactly where you are, ready to dump D* for all of the many reasons. I had cable installed, suspended my D* account and was "set". The cable gave me all the hardware [2-HD-DVRs] & a month trial [free]. Two weeks on cable & two days without D* had me back. I really wanted it to work, but in the end I only gained reasons why I'm with D* [now]. The "other options" suck [for me].
So I would say... don't "box yourself in", look into the others in some form of trial. Suspend your D* account, but don't close it. As pissed as I was, I was glad to come back after "living with" the others.

...If I were you, I would call Dave and get a heckuva deal on an HR20...
Dave who?

... don't "box yourself in", look into the others in some form of trial. Suspend your D* account, but don't close it. As pissed as I was, I was glad to come back after "living with" the others.

The trial is excellent advice.

In some areas cable is good, and would be a good choice. In other places though, it's really really bad, especially on SD digital and/or analog channels.

Dave who?
The "Dave" would be DTV or D*.

DTV is Digital Television.

DTV is Digital Television.
Your right, I'm lazy. "Dave" is slang for DirecTV.

If anyone is interested, I hooked my h20 up to a kill-o-watt device.
It uses ~30 watts while watching either sat or OTA.

And 25 watts of that is heat!

So I figured out the problem, to why my picture was yellow.

One of the component cables came unplugged from the receiver, causing it to not get all the feeds. I felt dumb.

If anyone is interested, I hooked my h20 up to a kill-o-watt device.
It uses ~30 watts while watching either sat or OTA.
And how many watts when turned off?

Do you have the H20-100 or the H20-600? If you're not sure, look inside the access card door for a number ending in 100 or 600.

Is there anyway I can enable the OTA part of the H20 without needing a subscription? I am asking because I recently won an H20-600 which I thought I would be able to use OTA with. Now I have the receiver, I am unable to use it. It keeps asking for a subscription. Has Directv gone so far as to lock the receiver out so that user without subscription can not use it. It may be fine and dandy if I was able to purchase a subscription just so I can enable OTA. However, I am in Canada and I can not get a subscription without having a US address.

Can anyone out there help out a guy to enable the OTA on this receiver?

Thanks

Is there anyway I can enable the OTA part of the H20 without needing a subscription? I am asking because I recently won an H20-600 which I thought I would be able to use OTA with. Now I have the receiver, I am unable to use it. It keeps asking for a subscription. Has Directv gone so far as to lock the receiver out so that user without subscription can not use it. It may be fine and dandy if I was able to purchase a subscription just so I can enable OTA. However, I am in Canada and I can not get a subscription without having a US address.
Can anyone out there help out a guy to enable the OTA on this receiver?
Thanks
I guess "winning" wasn't everything it was supposed to be since the H-20 doesn't work without an active subscription. Bummer...

The only thing that I could think of for you to do is to find/have a friend [in the US] add your receiver to their system for the $5/month additional receiver fee. You shouldn't connect it to a phone line as this will show D* that it isn't at the same location as the "parent system" is. You would need to give your "friend" the serial number & the access card number for them to add it to their account.

Picked up a Panasonic TH-42PX6U from Costco yesterday and called Cust. retention for DirecTV to arrange installation of the 5LNB Slimline dish. I asked for the H20-100 receiver but was told they couldn't guarantee it would be sent. The CSR said to go buy one from a store and they would credit my account for the amount ($99). Went to 3 CC's, 2 Wallys, and 3 BB's but they only carried the H20-600. At this point I just want the dish installed so I can start enjoying my new set. Are the H20-100's worth waiting for (if I can snag one online) or should I just roll the dice and hope I have no problems with a 600? Thanks.

Picked up a Panasonic TH-42PX6U from Costco yesterday and called Cust. retention for DirecTV to arrange installation of the 5LNB Slimline dish. I asked for the H20-100 receiver but was told they couldn't guarantee it would be sent. The CSR said to go buy one from a store and they would credit my account for the amount ($99). Went to 3 CC's, 2 Wallys, and 3 BB's but they only carried the H20-600. At this point I just want the dish installed so I can start enjoying my new set. Are the H20-100's worth waiting for (if I can snag one online) or should I just roll the dice and hope I have no problems with a 600? Thanks.

Both are terrific boxes. The 600 has a slightly better (more sensitive) OTA tuner and slightly better PQ on SD material. The 100 runs cooler and has a faster channel guide. ALL D* CSRs have absolutely no clue which one you will get so don't bother asking for a particular one. Just take what they give you on the install and swap it out later if you want to try to get the other one. The swap out is free and they overnight a new one to you.

Thanks billt1111. Sounds like a win-win deal.

If you swap it out later, there's no guarantee that you won't get another one of the same sub-model (-100 or -600).

If you live in a tough OTA area (multipath or weak signals, you will want the -600.

The only thing that I could think of for you to do is to find/have a friend [in the US] add your receiver to their system for the $5/month additional receiver fee. You shouldn't connect it to a phone line as this will show D* that it isn't at the same location as the "parent system" is. You would need to give your "friend" the serial number & the access card number for them to add it to their account.

D* may not activate the access card if the "won" receiver has already been used on another account.

If you were able to get it activated, you would still need it connected to at least a single LNB dish aimed at the 101° sat. If it's not connected to a dish at all times, it won't work for OTA, once it has lost/regained power and reboots.

arxaw,
I'm in NY (Long Island) so I'll get my locals through DTV. I requested the 100 and was told by the CSR that the 100 is on the work order and that the installer should have it. DTV isn't sending me the receiver which was how I thought it was supposed to work.

arxaw,
I'm in NY (Long Island) so I'll get my locals through DTV. I requested the 100 and was told by the CSR that the 100 is on the work order and that the installer should have it. DTV isn't sending me the receiver which was how I thought it was supposed to work.
Don't put a lot of faith in a D* work order. They may write it, but what the installer gets is a far cry from it. The -600 is a good box, just don't bury it in or under other things as it want to be out in the open air for cooling. I have both -100 & -600 & prefer the -600.

D* may not activate the access card if the "won" receiver has already been used on another account.
If you were able to get it activated, you would still need it connected to at least a single LNB dish aimed at the 101° sat. If it's not connected to a dish at all times, it won't work for OTA, once it has lost/regained power and reboots.
All good points.
I was "assuming" it would be connected to a dish, but then I was suggesting how to make it work.

Thanks veryoldschool. Have you found better PQ on SD with the 600? I'm planning on putting the receiver and PS3 on shelves of a TV stand that I'm still shopping for. Does the 600 need more air than is normally provided with stands or should it be out in the open.

As a side note, the 2nd CSR I spoke with waived the $19.99 shipping fee along with the $99 receiver fee and free install of the 5LNB Slimline so I'm pretty happy with DirecTV right now.

Thanks veryoldschool. Have you found better PQ on SD with the 600? I'm planning on putting the receiver and PS3 on shelves of a TV stand that I'm still shopping for. Does the 600 need more air than is normally provided with stands or should it be out in the open.
As a side note, the 2nd CSR I spoke with waived the $19.99 shipping fee along with the $99 receiver fee and free install of the 5LNB Slimline so I'm pretty happy with DirecTV right now.
I haven't noticed a difference in PQ between the -100 & -600, but the -600 has better OTA sensitivity which I use [need]. SD is good, but I compare that to digital cable [poor]. PQ will improve when D* adds some of the software from the HR-20. They've been working the bugs out of it & along the way [just a couple of weeks ago] found some good code for PQ. Maybe after the new year, they'll have the time for a new upgrade for the H20.
As far as where to put your H20-600, if it's on an open shelf there's no problem, but I wouldn't bury it behind glass or any place that it can get good air flow. The -100 can work fine in those type of entertainment centers, but the -600 doesn't have a fan and does run warmer. Mine runs about 95+ degrees at the top of the air vents. A poster had his re-booting @ 116 degrees.
I think the difference between the two units is the -600 has a second tuner in it for OTA channels which [more ICs & heatsinks] is why it give off more heat.
Both could use software updates to fix minor bugs, but for the price [$0] I live with each one's [different] idiosyncrasies.

Thanks for the help veryoldschool. Sounds like I'll be happy with either receiver. Maybe getting the 600 will be a blessing in disguise. Now I'm off to pick out a stand for the Panny. :)

I have found that the -600 has a very slight edge in SD PQ, compared to the -100. It may just be the combination of STB and display I'm using. YMMV.

Neither the -100 or the -600 has a fan.

Thanks arsaw and veryoldschool for the helpful answer. Though the answer is not what I would like ot hear I appreciate the info.

i guess I have to find a frend in the states to add the card and receiver.

So basically, I have to have a dish pointing to 101. Do I need to always point to it and what if the card is cancelled after the receiver gets activated? Would the OTA still work?

We just had D* install a new system and the lip sync with HD is terrible. We did not have this problem at all with Warner cable HD. :(

I searched this thread but couldn't find any definitive info on whether this is something that can be fixed via firmware or with an audio delay box or if this is just a "feature"?

hiepp0,
The box must be constantly active on an active account and connected to a dish pointed at the 101° D* sat.

If the box is disconnected from an active account or not connected to a dish, OTA will quit working either immediately, or after the next reboot or loss of power. AFAIK, there is NO way around this, unless someone could possibly hack the receiver. And it is taboo to discuss D* receiver hacking on this forum.

nyleavesfall,
What audio connection are you using?

nyleavesfall,
What audio connection are you using?
We've got it hooked up using digital audio out - same as we were doing with the SA3250HD STB - to the HT system.

i guess I have to find a frend in the states to add the card and receiver. So basically, I have to have a dish pointing to 101. Do I need to always point to it and what if the card is cancelled after the receiver gets activated? Would the OTA still work?
You might as well find a dish [3 or 5 LNB if you can] as you will "mirror" all of the programing from "your friend's" account.
The OTA will work [for a while] after the receiver is dropped from the account, but any power loss will end this.
Another option for OTA reception might be to add a HDTV tuner [card or USB] to your computer. This might be a simpler way to go, than going through the D* hassle. I have one & it works well, along with being able to record programs [HD-DVR].

We just had D* install a new system and the lip sync with HD is terrible. We did not have this problem at all with Warner cable HD. :(
I searched this thread but couldn't find any definitive info on whether this is something that can be fixed via firmware or with an audio delay box or if this is just a "feature"?
Is it on all HD channels?
Usually this is a station issue & not the D* box.

Is it on all HD channels?
Usually this is a station issue & not the D* box.

Thanks for all the replies. We tried resetting the H20 and, voila, everything is synced properly now. While I feel better (much, actually) I hope this isn't something that has to be done on a regular basis.

Of note, we also have another H20 hooked to an older HD RPTV using the std audio out jacks and there was no issue with sync.

Thanks for all the replies. We tried resetting the H20 and, voila, everything is synced properly now. While I feel better (much, actually) I hope this isn't something that has to be done on a regular basis.
Of note, we also have another H20 hooked to an older HD RPTV using the std audio out jacks and there was no issue with sync.
It isn't "normal" to need numerous reset for the H-20. I've needed to do a reset every once an a while on my -600 to get the OTA channels back. For some reason it "forgets" that I use this part.
Good luck with your's, you should have fun.

a couple of other noobie questions...Do the 100 and 600 both have HDMI outputs? My Panny has HDMI input x2 so I'll need to order from monoprice. I assume the HDMI to HDMI 24 AWG is what I'm looking for? Thanks again.

a couple of other noobie questions...Do the 100 and 600 both have HDMI outputs? My Panny has HDMI input x2 so I'll need to order from monoprice. I assume the HDMI to HDMI 24 AWG is what I'm looking for? Thanks again.
Yes, HDMI has become the standard.
The gauge for your cable will depend on how long the cable is. The longer - the bigger [lower # gauge] wire you want.
I don't think you'll go wrong from monoprice's list, as they increase wire as the cable gets longer.

veryoldschool,
Thank you for all of the help!

....The 600 has a slightly better (more sensitive) OTA tuner and slightly better PQ on SD material. .....

Just curious, does the -600 crop differently than the -100? My -100 over-zooms 4:3 material a bit too much, so much so that I have to use the pillarbox mode most of the time. With that issue and the HDMI bug, I now wish I had kept my Samy TS360 active (it is now a OTA tuner, and apparently the H20 can't be used as such).

D* will not switch out the box because of the HDMI not working on the -100.

Just curious, does the -600 crop differently than the -100? My -100 over-zooms 4:3 material a bit too much, so much so that I have to use the pillarbox mode most of the time. With that issue and the HDMI bug, I now wish I had kept my Samy TS360 active (it is now a OTA tuner, and apparently the H20 can't be used as such). D* will not switch out the box because of the HDMI not working on the -100.
I have both a -100 & -600 & the HDMI works on both of them. Do you have a "Samy" TV? They don't seem to "like" the H-20 & HDMI. If it's not the TV, then have D* replace the unit. If they won't for your HDMI complaint, then I would tell them it keeps rebooting. [They don't always tell me the truth, so I don't need to always tell them...]
I haven't noticed an "over-zoom" with SD programing, but then I don't see the cropped portion [Duh] & tend to watch in pillarbox mode anyway. I don't think there really is any way for SD programing to "look good" except pillarbox. Zoom cuts too much off & stretch is too distorted [for me].
What or how does it look with a SD program that is "letterbox" [in zoom or cropped]?

HDMI issue- I have an Pioneer 5070 Plasma TV and I recently changed the video connection from component to HDMI. The TV is directly hooked up to a H20-600. The HDMI cable length is 6 ft. I have the H20 video set to native. Since the video connection change I have noticed that I am having a lot more video drop outs/macroblocking. I have also noticed that the audio drops out some times too. My audio connection is fiber optic straight thru to a Yamaha 659 Rcvr. The majority of these dropouts happen on the DNS HS channels. Thanks

HDMI issue- I have an Pioneer 5070 Plasma TV and I recently changed the video connection from component to HDMI. The TV is directly hooked up to a H20-600. The HDMI cable length is 6 ft. I have the H20 video set to native. Since the video connection change I have noticed that I am having a lot more video drop outs/macroblocking. I have also noticed that the audio drops out some times too. My audio connection is fiber optic straight thru to a Yamaha 659 Rcvr. The majority of these dropouts happen on the DNS HS channels. Thanks
Turn native off & see if there is any change. I have a -600 & HDMI to DVI + optical and don't see any particular drop outs other than the Station's.

Thanks I will give it a try.

....Do you have a "Samy" TV?
No, this one is a 20" Sharp LCD. Knowing that D* can't guarantee that I'll get a -600, it would be a 50-50 shot worth taking.

....What or how does it look with a SD program that is "letterbox" [in zoom or cropped]?
Never had that opportunity. But my previous STB (the TS360) did a marvelous job cropping with Zoom 1 (and Zoom 2 to move the picture up a little for crawlers). It really did make 4:3 watching no problem!

Just curious, does the -600 crop differently than the -100? My -100 over-zooms 4:3 material a bit too much, so much so that I have to use the pillarbox mode most of the time. With that issue and the HDMI bug, I now wish I had kept my Samy TS360 active (it is now a OTA tuner, and apparently the H20 can't be used as such).

D* will not switch out the box because of the HDMI not working on the -100.
The H-20-100 and 600 work just fine for OTA. The HR-20-700 HDDVR does not currently have OTA enabled.

I have a H20-100 that I'm trying to get working with a Sony Pearl (VPL-VW50) through a Monoprice 5x1 HDMI switch (HDX-501 REV 2.1).

I have the H20 set to output only 1080i (I rarely watch anything other than HD), and all I get on the Pearl is a flashing blue screen when I select the input with the H20 on it. My other 2 HDMI sources work flawlessly (Toshiba HD-A1 and HTPC equipped with an ATI 1600x Pro).

I'm using 3ft Monoprice 24 awg HDMI cables between my 3 source components and the switch. I then use a Monoprice 25ft 22 awg HDMI cable to the Pearl.

The only way I can get the H20 working is to boot it when connected directly to the Pearl. Once running, I can "hot swap" it onto the HDMI switch and everything works well until I change source on the switch and then go back to the H20. Then I'm back to the flickering blue screen (the default background color on the Pearl when no input is present).

Is this a H20-100 issue or something else in the chain? Should I try to get a replacement receiver from D*?

The H-20-100 and 600 work just fine for OTA. The HR-20-700 HDDVR does not currently have OTA enabled.

I read previous in this thread that without a D* subscription, I can't just use the H20 for a OTA receiver (exclusively).

I read previous in this thread that without a D* subscription, I can't just use the H20 for a OTA receiver (exclusively).It can't, without a D* subscription. What 66stang351meant was:
"The H-20-100 and 600 [receivers] work just fine for OTA [IF you also subscribe to D*]. The HR-20-700 HD DVR does not currently have OTA enabled."

I have a H20-100 that I'm trying to get working with a Sony Pearl (VPL-VW50) through a Monoprice 5x1 HDMI switch (HDX-501 REV 2.1).
I have the H20 set to output only 1080i (I rarely watch anything other than HD), and all I get on the Pearl is a flashing blue screen when I select the input with the H20 on it. My other 2 HDMI sources work flawlessly (Toshiba HD-A1 and HTPC equipped with an ATI 1600x Pro). I'm using 3ft Monoprice 24 awg HDMI cables between my 3 source components and the switch. I then use a Monoprice 25ft 22 awg HDMI cable to the Pearl. The only way I can get the H20 working is to boot it when connected directly to the Pearl. Once running, I can "hot swap" it onto the HDMI switch and everything works well until I change source on the switch and then go back to the H20. Then I'm back to the flickering blue screen (the default background color on the Pearl when no input is present). Is this a H20-100 issue or something else in the chain? Should I try to get a replacement receiver from D*?
Have you "played" with cables & your Sony? The 25' cable might be a problem, but this is only a guess. Is it the same on all port of your switch? There is a "HDMI Active Equalizer Extender Repeater" for long HDMI cables [if it works with a short cable]. These are only thoughts, as I don't have your setup.

You will need a shorter run or a repeater. The generally accepted limit for an unassisted digital video cable of this type is about 5 meters or just over 16 feet, particularly with high-definition sources.

1. The 25' cable is 22 awg (the top of the line cable from Monoprice).

2. My HDMI switcher has a built in video amp (equalizer) with a bandwidth of 1.65GBps and is rated to support not only 1080i but also 1080p.

3. Both the HD-A1 and HTPC produce stunning images with no sparkling whatsoever.

4. The H20 works when it is connected directly to the Pearl (using the 25' cable), but only when performing a cold boot.

So I don't think the 25' cable is the issue here, rather I suspect something with the H20 HDCP handshake when going through the switch. What's odd is that the HD-A1 is very picky about this, yet it has no issues.

I don't think the 25' cable is the issue here, rather I suspect something with the H20 HDCP handshake when going through the switch. What's odd is that the HD-A1 is very picky about this, yet it has no issues.
And to "prove" this, connect a short cable to your H-20 & see if it's the same.

Sorry to ask this but I read as much of this thread as possible and still can't find my answer. I just installed a brand new H20-600 and I'm having a problem with OTA reception. When I run the set-up for my 2 local markets, the receiver "adds" around 60 channels to the guide. My question is this. Are these just possible stations I can get if my OTA antenna picks them up? I really can't imagine getting that many stations living in a fairly remote area no matter how good my antenna is. Also, since I installed the receiver, I get no OTA channels. Before I installed it I had my antenna running directly to my TV and I picked up 3 or 4 stations. Is my tv just better at receiving the signals than the H20 is? Like I said, with it installed I get NONE. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Sorry to ask this but I read as much of this thread as possible and still can't find my answer. I just installed a brand new H20-600 and I'm having a problem with OTA reception. When I run the set-up for my 2 local markets, the receiver "adds" around 60 channels to the guide. My question is this. Are these just possible stations I can get if my OTA antenna picks them up? I really can't imagine getting that many stations living in a fairly remote area no matter how good my antenna is. Also, since I installed the receiver, I get no OTA channels. Before I installed it I had my antenna running directly to my TV and I picked up 3 or 4 stations. Is my tv just better at receiving the signals than the H20 is? Like I said, with it installed I get NONE. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
The D* guide is all the channels in the zip code(s) you entered [& not what it found]. The -600 has a great OTA tuner. Now you might need to reset the receiver. My -600 has stopped receiving OTA channels twice, which is resolved with a reset [red button].

Thanks, I'll try that right now and report back.

It can't, without a D* subscription. What 66stang351meant was:
"The H-20-100 and 600 [receivers] work just fine for OTA [IF you also subscribe to D*]. The HR-20-700 HD DVR does not currently have OTA enabled."

Excuse the newbie here ...
I have an old E86 box that I've used for OTA HD reception ONLY for quite some time. I do have a D* dish on the roof that I used to have subscribed to HD content a couple of years ago. I completely de-subscribed from D* but I continued to be able to receive and integrate the 'guide' into my OTA viewing. Freebie! Gotta love it. Well, the E86 sat receiver finally died so no more guide(the OTA reception is still fine). I was all set on buying an H20 receiver to re-gain the guide but now you guys are saying the H20 won't receive OTA unless I'm D*-subscribed?? Can this really be true? If so, what receiver would be recommended? I just want to receive OTA HD and integrate D*'s guide information to it. I wanted a more sensitive receiver than the E86 and maybe faster menu?!

I was all set on buying an H20 receiver to re-gain the guide but now you guys are saying the H20 won't receive OTA unless I'm D*-subscribed?? Can this really be true? If so, what receiver would be recommended? I just want to receive OTA HD and integrate D*'s guide information to it. I wanted a more sensitive receiver than the E86 and maybe faster menu?!
D* makes the H-20 series so they have control over the software. The H20-600 has the best [5th generation] OTA tuner, but needs to have an active D* account for it to work. "Getting" a H20 requires you to activate it & have a two year programing commitment along with the unit being a lease [not owned].
Short of doing this, the next option would be to add a 5th gen tuner [card or USB] to your computer & then send the video to your TV.

Well, heck! I was gonna buy one of the 'sealed, new, in carton' specials off CraigsList for like $70 to avoid having to commit to D*. I guess I'm gonna buy an old E86 that still works, for now.

Thanks

I see all your points below, and recognize them. However, the fact remains, that you are out of spec on cable length as defined in the DVI and HDMI standards protocol. Frankly, that would be the FIRST thing I check.

1. The 25' cable is 22 awg (the top of the line cable from Monoprice).

2. My HDMI switcher has a built in video amp (equalizer) with a bandwidth of 1.65GBps and is rated to support not only 1080i but also 1080p.

3. Both the HD-A1 and HTPC produce stunning images with no sparkling whatsoever.

4. The H20 works when it is connected directly to the Pearl (using the 25' cable), but only when performing a cold boot.

So I don't think the 25' cable is the issue here, rather I suspect something with the H20 HDCP handshake when going through the switch. What's odd is that the HD-A1 is very picky about this, yet it has no issues.

The problem is that the 25' cable feeds a ceiling mounted projector that is about 17' from the screen. All the equipment is behind the screen in another room, so I really have no way of permanently decreasing the cable distance between the HDMI switcher and the projector.

Just for grins, I suppose I can temporarily move the HDMI switcher and H20 out into the theater and run a temp coax to my dish just to see if the issue goes away when using a 6' cable instead of a 25' one.

That would be an excellent debug routine. If it turns out to be cable length issue, then a simple inline amp between two shorter cable lengths of the same overall length (instead of one long one) should help. There are at least two on the market that can handle 1080p.

... since I installed the receiver, I get no OTA channels. Before I installed it I had my antenna running directly to my TV and I picked up 3 or 4 stations...
The H20-600 has an outstanding OTA tuner.

If your TV has a digital tuner and picked up 3 or 4 digital OTA stations, the H20 should at least pick up those same 3 or 4 digital channels. Note: The H20 series receivers do NOT have an OTA analog tuner - only digital.

Check your antenna connctions on the back of the H20 and do a reboot/rescan. If it still doesn't pick up the digital channels your TV did, either suspect a bad coax or connection or a DOA tuner in the H20.

Probably you have already checked this, but make sure you have split back out the sat signal from the OTA signal at the wall, and run the right cable to the right location.... Of course, I am assuming you have diplexed the signals to begin with.

I received an H20-100 today as a replacement for an older Samsung HD model under DirecTV protection plan. It will not receive any hd package channels. It tells me that I don't have Satellite 110 & 119, but I do. I have tried this receiver on 7 different connections in my house were the current receivers work fine but the H20 won't. I have 4 HR10-250 that work fine yet when I change out to the H20 it will not picked up the HD package channels. Any suggestions or resets to try or did I get a reconditioned lemon. All the other channels in the programming package including locals come in fine on the H20. Thanks for any help you can give.

I received an H20-100 today as a replacement for an older Samsung HD model under DirecTV protection plan. It will not receive any hd package channels. It tells me that I don't have Satellite 110 & 119, but I do. I have tried this receiver on 7 different connections in my house were the current receivers work fine but the H20 won't. I have 4 HR10-250 that work fine yet when I change out to the H20 it will not picked up the HD package channels. Any suggestions or resets to try or did I get a reconditioned lemon. All the other channels in the programming package including locals come in fine on the H20. Thanks for any help you can give.
This has happened to me. A call to D* and having them send out a reset from their end solved the problem. Once I needed to then do a "red button" reset after they had sent their reset command. Hope this will help.

The H20-600 has an outstanding OTA tuner.

If your TV has a digital tuner and picked up 3 or 4 digital OTA stations, the H20 should at least pick up those same 3 or 4 digital channels. Note: The H20 series receivers do NOT have an OTA analog tuner - only digital.

Check your antenna connctions on the back of the H20 and do a reboot/rescan. If it still doesn't pick up the digital channels your TV did, either suspect a bad coax or connection or a DOA tuner in the H20.

DirecTV can not confirm that you will receive an H20-600 or an H20-100. I got an H20-100 and the OTA tuner is not as good as my H10, Samsung 360 or Accurian-6000. The others will pick up 5 or 6 more channels than the H20-100 and all are hooked up to the same antennae. I was very disappointed in the OTA tuner.


It has been reported that the H20-600 has a very good OTA tuner but I wouldn't know since I got an H20-100. Hopefully, the next generation of DirecTV tuners will have a better OTA (But do not count on that since DirecTV really has no need to provide a good OTA tuner since they would rather you subscribe to their HD package).

DirecTV can not confirm that you will receive an H20-600 or an H20-100.The poster I was replying to has an H20-600.

WRT your -100, you can always call and tell them the OTA doesn't work (at all), and ask for a replacement to be shipped to you. Replacement roulette may eventually get you an H20-600.

Hmm...my H20-100 has better reception than my Sammy TS-360. It does have slightly inferior tuner compared to the H20-600 but the increase in speed and stability is by far worth it. The only channel that is now iffy reception-wise is Fox, which the MPEG-4 D* channel looks fine.

Hmm...my H20-100 has better reception than my Sammy TS-360. It does have slightly inferior tuner compared to the H20-600 but the increase in speed and stability is by far worth it. In your case, yes.

In my case, I live in a fringe area and I get several HD channels with the H20-600 that the H20-100 just could not receive. And I dont have HD LIL available, so OTA is the only way I can watch them. I can also get channels from 2 different markets without turning my antenna with the rotor. With the -100, that just wasnt possible.

In my case, the slightly speedier guide on the -100 is not worth putting up with its inferior tuner.

In my case, I live in a fringe area and I get several HD channels with the H20-600 that the H20-100 just could not receive. In my case, the slightly speedier guide on the -100 is not worth putting up with its inferior tuner.
I'm in the same "boat" as you & need the performance -600. ;)

fringe area?....I'm below an elevated freeway! :) When a semi truck goes by, I can temporarily lose signal on Fox. :D

I use a Channel Master 4228.

Anyone that needs a Zinwell 6x8 multiswitch for the Ka/Ku birds, overstock.com has them for less than $20 with free shipping. If you think you'll ever need one, for less than $20 I'd invest consider you will save over $100 off D*'s price.

hello all...sorry if this has been asked before as i don't have the time to read through all 147 pages of this thread...i just got my H-20 hooked up to a Samsung 1080P LCD with a HDMI connection...if i set the H-20 to 720P or 1080i, i get a black screen, 480i or 480p i get picture but every few sec. it drops out then picture comes back...is there a firmware update for these recievers or is there something in the setup i need to change...thx all

-Pat

Thanks for all the replies. I was busy all day and didn't have time to check the forum. I did reset the box and still no OTA channels. The tv was picking up digital, not analog channels when I had the antenna hooked directly to it (30.1, 30.2, etc) and some like NBC were definitely in HD. I don't think it's bad coaxial cables because when I go into settings and check the antenna strength on the channels I WAS receiving, I get low readings like 5 or 10 percent. So it would seem it's getting some signal but not a strong one like it obviously did thru the tv. Jeff, I'm not understanding your reply exactly but the satellite and the antenna cables both come into the house and are routed to the H20 on their own seperate cables. I'm not sure why I would need a diplexer. Anyway, I re-checked all the connections and everything seems in order. I guess all I can do is try hooking the antenna back up to te set and see if I get the channels in again. If i do I would assume the H20 is DOA like you said, but then again, why does the signal strength meter get a low reading. You would think it would get none at all if the tuner was in fact DOA!

i just got my H-20 hooked up to a Samsung 1080P LCD with a HDMI connection...if i set the H-20 to 720P or 1080i, i get a black screen, 480i or 480p i get picture but every few sec. it drops out then picture comes back...is there a firmware update for these recievers or is there something in the setup i need to change...thx all
-Pat
The Samsung TVs don't seem to like HDMI at this time. There is a software update [from july] that you should get [if not already], but for the time being, you'll need to use the component connection.

I don't think it's bad coaxial cables because when I go into settings and check the antenna strength on the channels I WAS receiving, I get low readings like 5 or 10 percent. So it would seem it's getting some signal but not a strong one like it obviously did thru the tv. Anyway, I re-checked all the connections and everything seems in order. I guess all I can do is try hooking the antenna back up to te set and see if I get the channels in again. If i do I would assume the H20 is DOA like you said, but then again, why does the signal strength meter get a low reading. You would think it would get none at all if the tuner was in fact DOA!
1- do connect to the TV & check your channels.
2- take that cable to the ant. input of the H20 & see.
3- go into the setup menu & do a system info/test. you should see two signal readings, one the sat feed & the other the OTA feed.
If the TV [cable] shows good channels & that [same] cable doesn't give you the same out of the H20, then "must be" the H20.

hello all...sorry if this has been asked before as i don't have the time to read through all 147 pages of this thread...i just got my H-20 hooked up to a Samsung 1080P LCD with a HDMI connection...if i set the H-20 to 720P or 1080i, i get a black screen, 480i or 480p i get picture but every few sec. it drops out then picture comes back...is there a firmware update for these recievers or is there something in the setup i need to change...thx all

-Pat

Hi Pat,
Just got my HDMI cables in the mail and I'm looking up my H20-100 receiver to my 6188W Samsung DLP and I get the same thing. When I set the resolution to 480i or 480p, works just fine. At 720p and 1080i, not so much. Every two seconds, I get a black screen that lasts for a second or so.

I called DirecTv and it's a known issue with that receiver and the HDMI port. They said they are working on it and will have a software update "in the near future". Whatever that means.

Looks like it's back to component cables for me.

IF my experience is anything close to representative then D* was VERY premature in making the HR20 widely available. After nearly 2 months from my initial order, four service calls and three different units - today I finally achieved success and have a fully functioning (I think) installation. The first HR20 had a failed second tuner and the install tech never bothered to check. The second HR20 had two tuners that worked, but was sent without it's own access card and would not pair with the access card from the first box. After getting to this point, and spending hours on the phone with tech support, they absolutely refused to honor my requests to just send me another access card, insisting on sending another tech instead - without an access card. Tech #3 arrived - without an access card - and verified everything I had told tech support many times over. After spending over 2 hours on the phone with D* tech support even tech#3 had reached the limit of his patience. Then over a week later tech #4 finally arrived (several hours late) with a third DVR and a new access card and after several reboots (they take over 5 minutes with this unit) it finally all worked.

What are the lessons learned?

(1) There are many kinks in the system for the HR20. It severely needs more testing and is not ready for full rate production.

(2) D*s phone tech assist capabilities are poor at best. Every call (and there were many) was like starting all over again - and worse yet - getting passed from one desk to the next within the same multi hour call was like starting all over again! After many hours on the phone over a period of 6 weeks and finally reaching the breaking point, demanding to speak with a supervisor and threatening to terminate service, they finally demonstrated a modest level of awareness that something significant was wrong and stopped treating my case as routine.

This was way too hard. I cannot recommend it to anyone else. After all this, I sure hope the HR20 itself proves reasonably capable.

FPNova, you are in the wrong thread.

This is the H20 thread, which is not a DVR.

1- do connect to the TV & check your channels.
2- take that cable to the ant. input of the H20 & see.
3- go into the setup menu & do a system info/test. you should see two signal readings, one the sat feed & the other the OTA feed.
If the TV [cable] shows good channels & that [same] cable doesn't give you the same out of the H20, then "must be" the H20.
Thanks again for the help. I think I figured it out. For some reason I had to go into the tv's set-up function and run a search for digital channels while hooked up thru the H20. I previously only ran the search just using the antenna. Stupid me!!! Thanks again.

What are the lessons learned? This was way too hard. I cannot recommend it to anyone else.
I see this was your first post. We all have been through a similar go-round with D*. I have spent 28 hours on the phone within two weeks.
I would say that it does get better. Questions or problems that you might have could better be addressed by the members of this forum,
or the HR's --http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=704067&page=1&pp=30
I "have been there" & want to help others not go through the same BS.

Thanks again for the help. I think I figured it out. For some reason I had to go into the tv's set-up function and run a search for digital channels while hooked up thru the H20. I previously only ran the search just using the antenna. Stupid me!!! Thanks again.
1- I glad you have it working, as that's the point.
2- I have no idea what you did. It sounds as if you're going through your TV to the H20.
3- I would have tested the antenna [with your TV] for a signal & then connected the antenna [straight] to the H20. In the H20's guide [all channels] you would then find the "XX.1,2,etc" channels along with your D* locals.

After much effort, I got D* to let me go to BB/CC to pick up a replacement H20 and then reimburse me. With my -100 having issues with HDMI and not powering off (via remote or STB button), I'm looking for a -600.

So.....with the -600 I get better SD PQ, HDMI that works, better OTA sensitivity, slower guides, and a hotter running box (that should not be an issue, it will sit out in the open).

Still the way to go, and worth the effort?

peteranton,
The positives you posted are the reasons I prefer the -600 over the -100, despite the -600's slower guide (I don't watch the guide, I watch TV).

If a receiver (-100) can't pick up all the channels I want to watch, but another one (-600) can, I'm going to choose the one that can.

Questions- Is it typical to have a significant difference in transponder signal strength numbers between a H20 and a Hughes HTL-HD sat rcvr. The HTL-HD box transponder signal strengths numbers are running 20+ points higher than the H20. The HTL-HD numbers are in the high 80s and low 90s and the H20 numbers are in the high 60s and low 70s. Maybe I have a bad coax or multiplexer output port?

Questions- Is it typical to have a significant difference in transponder signal strength numbers between a H20 and a Hughes HTL-HD sat rcvr. The HTL-HD box transponder signal strengths numbers are running 20+ points higher than the H20. The HTL-HD numbers are in the high 80s and low 90s and the H20 numbers are in the high 60s and low 70s. Maybe I have a bad coax or multiplexer output port?



These numbers are just for reference on an individual set top box. The h-20 does read about 20 points lower than many stb's. 70 is very good by the way. The main consideration here is..are you getting good reception with almost zero dropouts?

Questions- Is it typical to have a significant difference in transponder signal strength numbers between a H20 and a Hughes HTL-HD sat rcvr. Yes.
70s are normal relative reading for the H20 on most transponders.

Spot beams used for local channels may read higher, depending on the strength of the spot beam for your city and how close you are to the center of the spot beam.

Ugh, I am entering the forum a noobie, so decided to read from a month back to present. Now, I wonder if the Holiday HDTV (off to shop right now) will tie the family (and our viewing) in knots while the many items involved are settled.

I did spend an hour wit DTV Saturday and was upgraded from the ancient box / dish (circa 1997). But, between: TV, cables, set box, sat dish, ext ant and such ... is it worth it? I'm also laughing since my dish is on an old TV tower like another poster here.

Will the neighbors have to cut trees? Will my wife crawl around in the attic to establish ext ant? Will my boy crawl into the attic corner to feed new wires? Will the install folks ever call (72 business hours clock tomorrow morning, no call)? Will I get an H20-100 or H20-600? Does it matter?

I have DTV, basic cable, and an aging (but otherwise excellent) Mitsubishi 27" CRT. Maybe I should just buy each member of the family an etchasketch!

E

Etch - Ah, it's not that bad. Remember - forums attract mostly measurbators and complainers, by their very nature. I have a 5lnb dish, several h20-600's and various HD tv's ranging from tube to lcd to rear projection. It's all been mostly good for me, aside from occasional glitches

thx Jeff.

Really, I can see why the transition to HDTV is taking so long (complexity combined with monitor costs that were astro). In my case, I don't really NEED any upgrades ... just decided to tip-toe into HDTV.

I am deadly serious re: intimidation on the various TO-DOs. This reminds of an old saying (I'm old so say old stuff mostly) IRT computer tech:

I didn't want to learn how to build the internal (infernal) combustion engine ... I just wanted to drive the car!

I have sat. svc. since a friend designed some of the chips in the original RCA (Thomson) box. I considered Dish and Comcast (bundle), but like DTV. The customer conservation girl did a nice job, so I'm staying.

But ... somebody has a lot of work to do!

Etch

Really, I can see why the transition to HDTV is taking so long (complexity combined with monitor costs that were astro). In my case, I don't really NEED any upgrades ... just decided to tip-toe into HDTV. I am deadly serious re: intimidation on the various TO-DOs.
I made the move to HD just over three years ago. It's a big step. In hindsight, maybe I should have waited. HDTV is still evolving industry-wide. As with all new technology, some of the hardware has a short lifespan, & is costly.
This forum does attract people having problems, so it may be biased.
I guess the real question would be how much would you enjoy the great HDTV programing? I watch mostly network primetime which [for the most part] is now in HD. HD content is still some what limited, but will be increasing. When is it time to make the leap? Hard to say [for someone else]. I have & enjoy it. :)

(I'm old so say old stuff mostly) The customer conservation girl did a nice job, so I'm staying.

Etch

I'm old also, but the quality of picture and sound of a football game, race, almost any outdoor event, and many other programs on the HD channels make it all worthwhile. If you have a little time the problems are minimal. The techs don't always get it right, but a least they keep trying. I have an H20-100 and I don't have any complaints about OTA I get excellent quality on 24 channels and live over 45 miles from any towers.

peteranton,
The positives you posted are the reasons I prefer the -600 over the -100, despite the -600's slower guide (I don't watch the guide, I watch TV).

If a receiver (-100) can't pick up all the channels I want to watch, but another one (-600) can, I'm going to choose the one that can.

Thanks....I just expect this stuff to be better than what we are getting from D*. I had the original RCA DTC100 in '99 (clunky as it was) and then the Samy TS360 (which worked beautifully). Heck, I have a HR20....as buggy as it is....it still does what it's advertised to do: record in HD. I'm good with that. There is nothing wrong to "demand" a working HD STB from D*. :rolleyes:

All: my viewing habits are highly newsworthy (news junkie), so HD machts nichts for that. But, I enjoy an occasional Notre Dame football game, win or lose, so that will be interesting. The University raised the price of tickets to where every two games = roughly one 37" LCD. And, I do enjoy watching DVDs, more than going to the theater for the most part, so that's another plus.

I really planned to watch DTV on sat more than OTA. Guess I'll have to rethink that, though most network TV is not my cuppa. The Discovery ch offerings looked really good on analog, so must be stellar in HD (have a 13 year old boy -- trying to influence him re: the world).

I must have gotten the best of the DTV conservation staff on duty (after dropping the first feller who was no help). She agreed to upgrade the equipment, knock $10 / month off my service for a year, and let me test drive the DTV HD package free for four months (winter in South Bend is good TV time).

I saw where one of the posters ^ above was in Fort Wayne. Maybe if I get too dumbfounded he can make a house call. :0)

I'll be back with questions!
E

ps - looks like I'll buy a Samsung 32, Sharp 32, or LG 37 (before anyone says it, I know, wrong forum)

I ordered the H20 with a new dish today. I've been putting it off for almost a year now because I love my DVR R10. The D*TV CSR told me I can use the H20 in conjunction with the H20. I realize the recordings won't be in HD but can anyone tell me how this should work? Can I run one feed from the dish to the H20 to the TV (HDMI)? Then, another line from the dish to the DVR R10 to the TV (Composite)? THANKS!

Yes, but for the R10, S-video connection may give you a slightly better picture than composite. Try both and use the one that looks the best.

OK, first question.

Despite the fact posts ^ above ^ suggest the Samsung HDTVs were not enjoying HDMI feed from the H20 receivers, there's at least a 33% chance that's what I'll buy (in part subject to whim of Mrs. etchasketch, who will doubtless like the look, though we have no piano at home to match).

I do want to experiment with an HDMI connexion (*). Does the H20 require a dual male end HDMI, or, a DVI - HDMI, or what? I appreciate local consumerism, but, have no desire to overpay for the cable. I have seen some suggestions about a trusted online source. Could someone repost the site name (to save hunting through > 15 pages of posts)?

I looked at a H20 receiver yesterday in the box-store, but no model nummer was visible (100 v 600) and, as opposed to many comparison shoppers, I didn't want to pester the sales kids re: something I wasn't going to buy (thx to advice contained here, as leasing is sensible in this case, especially with failure potential).

Of note, the DTV installers have not contacted me to make an appointment. The end of my call with an excellent customer retention rep was odd. It sounded as if I was to talk to another agent (maybe to approve $0 charge?), but got dropped from the cue? Now I am wondering, have I even signed on to upgrade ...

Fortunately, I have excellent notes and a confirm #, so expect to pick up the ball and run when time allows. It did seem strange that the rep asked whether I had my TV yet. Wonder if demand for H20 units, and defective unit swaps has them in short supply?

Thanks in advance.

E

(*) it seems curious, the notion that HDMI cables reduce cable clutter to One. With the understanding the display has a power cord it seems there will be Two at the least.

Just connected the -600, and I can not uncheck the 480p under the Settings>TV Type>Resolutions. I can check/uncheck the 720p and 1080i modes. When I cycle through the formats, I only want to cycle through the 720p Crop/ Stretch/ Pillarbox without going through the 480p ones.

I could with the previous -100, and with my HR20. Is this a bug with the -600?

I do want to experiment with an HDMI connexion (*). Does the H20 require a dual male end HDMI, or, a DVI - HDMI, or what? I appreciate local consumerism, but, have no desire to overpay for the cable. I have seen some suggestions about a trusted online source. Could someone repost the site name (to save hunting through > 15 pages of posts)?

I looked at a H20 receiver yesterday in the box-store, but no model nummer was visible (100 v 600) and, as opposed to many comparison shoppers, I didn't want to pester the sales kids re: something I wasn't going to buy (thx to advice contained here, as leasing is sensible in this case, especially with failure potential).

Both my current H20s are AWESOME. Never had a second of trouble with any of the 6 I have installed, connected to Panasonic plasmas via HDMI. I swapped the H20s several times to see which feature set, look and feel was preferable to me. Each one was shipped immediately overnight with a return box and postage. I ended up preferring the 600 to the 100 but I would take either one on an install and swap it out later if I wanted to try the other.

The cable is HDMI/HDMI just like this link below. Monoprice is a terrific place to get them. The 24 awg version is a good compromise in quality but it is up to you, as is the length.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&style=

Just connected the -600, and I can not uncheck the 480p under the Settings>TV Type>Resolutions. I can check/uncheck the 720p and 1080i modes. When I cycle through the formats, I only want to cycle through the 720p Crop/ Stretch/ Pillarbox without going through the 480p ones.

I could with the previous -100, and with my HR20. Is this a bug with the -600?
It is a "feature" of the 600. If you're using the component video connection and tune to an HD copy-protected program, it allows you to still watch the program down-rezzed to 480p. You can test the copy protection downrezzing on channel 201.

I use HDMI and leave the -600 on 1080i Pillar box (OAR). This looks best on my monitor. For the (rare) times I want to zoom/crop a program, I use the TV's format button instead of the H20's, so it's not an issue with me.

thx Billt1111, ordering. Silly perhaps, but I don't want to chase around for items needed post purchase (actually already have the mount for a display not yet in hand). Forgive my newbE stumbling amongst this huge forum scene ... I'm happy to route purchases to suppliers that support this excellent info platform. ~ Etch

It is a "feature" of the 600. If you're using the component video connection and tune to an HD copy-protected program, it allows you to still watch the program down-rezzed to 480p. You can test the copy protection downrezzing on channel 201.

I use HDMI and leave the -600 on 1080i Pillar box (OAR). This looks best on my monitor. For the (rare) times I want to zoom/crop a program, I use the TV's format button instead of the H20's, so it's not an issue with me.

Well, I do not think I ever ran into a copy-protected HD program...though I doubt if I knew how I would have known when/if it ever happened. ???

Funny thing. I turned on Native to see if I could uncheck 480p...when the -600 went to a SD channel (thus 480p), I was able to use the TV (Sharp 20" 20DV20U)'s View Mode for the first time. I was told by the not-so-nice Sharp CSR that I was only able to use that button via Composite. Apparently the View Mode will indeed work via HDMI, but only receiving 480p from the H20.

I'll try to get used to that "feature," at least I know that is normal for the -600.

Well, I do not think I ever ran into a copy-protected HD program...though I doubt if I knew how I would have known when/if it ever happened. ???Connect a set of component cables, set the format to 720p (or 1080i) and tune to channel 201. You'll see this nag box asking you if you'd like to watch the copy-protected program in a lower resolution...
http://tinypic.com/2dkjxbr.jpg
Hitting OK will downrez the program to 480p.

I looked at a H20 receiver yesterday in the box-store, but no model nummer was visible (100 v 600).
If you open the card access door[lower right on front panel] , there is a sticker with the model number]. If it's still in the shipping box, the label denotes the model.

Connect a set of component cables, set the format to 720p (or 1080i) and tune to channel 201. You'll see this nag box asking you if you'd like to watch the copy-protected program in a lower resolution...Hitting OK will downrez the program to 480p.
I have mine set to 1080I, native off & I've never seen this as I watch any program [HBO, SHO, Starz, etc.]. I know there is copy-protection on my S-video output because I've had one hell of a time feeding it to my computer. Microsoft blocks "protected" programing from viewing. I had to send it into an RF modulator & then send it via channel 3 to the computer to get an SD program recorded.

I didn't mean to get anyone upset with my post about the tuner in the H20-100. I live in a fringe area (as others have stated). We all know that pulling in digital signals varies greatly based on location, weather, antennae, etc. In my case the only difference is the receivers. My H20-100 is simply not as good as pulling in digital signals as my other receivers. Others may have better results.

I didn't mean to get anyone upset with my post about the tuner in the H20-100. I live in a fringe area (as others have stated). We all know that pulling in digital signals varies greatly based on location, weather, antennae, etc. In my case the only difference is the receivers. My H20-100 is simply not as good as pulling in digital signals as my other receivers. Others may have better results.
I wouldn't make a big deal out of anyone getting "upset" as just about anything you post can get someone that way. It's common knowledge that the -600 has a better OTA receiver than the -100. I find my -100 to work as well as my Sony SAT HD 300, in my fringe area, but I have a big antenna with a pre-amp and that helps greatly. Those using not much more than rabbit-ears will have different results [Duh].

I have mine set to 1080I, native off & I've never seen this as I watch any program [HBO, SHO, Starz, etc.]. I know there is copy-protection on my S-video output...If you use component connection and either 720p or 1080i resolution, tune to ch 201, and you'll see the "switch to SD" info banner. You won't see it on HDMI.

And you are correct, composite and S-video outputs on D* boxes have CP (by Macrovision). They've had it ever since D* began service in 1994. I read that it has been used (rarely), but it's never affected any SD copying i've ever attempted to do.

If you use component connection and either 720p or 1080i resolution, tune to ch 201, and you'll see the "switch to SD" info banner. You won't see it on HDMI. And you are correct, composite and S-video outputs on D* boxes have CP (by Macrovision). They've had it ever since D* began service in 1994. I read that it has been used (rarely), but it's never affected any SD copying i've ever attempted to do.
I'm sure you're correct about component & channel 201. I use HDMI so...
I think my CP problem is more a problem with Microsoft. The minute it "sniffs" CP it shows a blue screen warning. I would guess "normal" copying to VCR [& the like] wouldn't have the same problem. Everybody is so paranoid of anybody have a digital copy of something.

Does the interactive preview guide on this receiver take up the full screen? I have TWC right now with a SA 8300HD box and it leaves gray bars on either side. I have been contemplating switching to D*. I have all my STBs set to output 1080i at all times on my set. If anyone could let me know if the preview guides on the H20 HD and H20 DVR are full screen I would appreciate it. Thanks ahead of time.

Brian

Does the interactive preview guide on this receiver take up the full screen? I have TWC right now with a SA 8300HD box and it leaves gray bars on either side. I have been contemplating switching to D*. I have all my STBs set to output 1080i at all times on my set. If anyone could let me know if the preview guides on the H20 HD and H20 DVR are full screen I would appreciate it. Thanks ahead of time. Brian
I have mine set to 1080I & the guide fills the screen. I'm not sure of your "interactive preview" though.

Can anyone post a screenshot of their preview guide on the H20?

I've did a search, and skimmed a few pages of this huge thread, but didn't see an answer.

Is Directv planning on fixing the guide, where when you choose HDTV channels to be displayed after hitting guide once; and then choosing HDTV channels it leaves out their own "local HD" feeds off that list.

I guess my firmware is 100C, downloaded 7/26. Is that the newest out there?

Thanks!

Can anyone post a screenshot of their preview guide on the H20?

http://www.directv.com/learn/pdf/System_Manuals/DIRECTV/DIRECTV_H20_UG.pdf


Page 14 of the PDF file has a shot of what it looks like, and if you page thru the rest of the manual you'll see some smaller shots of some other menu screens.

Hope this helps.

I've did a search, and skimmed a few pages of this huge thread, but didn't see an answer. Is Directv planning on fixing the guide, where when you choose HDTV channels to be displayed after hitting guide once; and then choosing HDTV channels it leaves out their own "local HD" feeds off that list.
I guess my firmware is 100C, downloaded 7/26. Is that the newest out there?
Thanks!
You've got the latest software. D* is planning an update for the H20s, but for the moment all of their software work is going into the HR-20 to bring it "up to speed", so you [& the rest of us] will just have to wait....

Do you need the oval dish or does the round dish work fine for this setup?

Do you need the oval dish or does the round dish work fine for this setup?
I'm not sure what your question is. To have any HD programing [from D*] requires the 3 LNB oval dish. To use it for just OTA channels, then a round dish pointed to the 101 sat seems to be the minimum.
For the H-20 to get local HD channels [from D*] you need a 5LNB dish.

When is this problem(HDMI) going to be fixed? D support told me ~2 months ago that
a software fix was coming. I'll believe it when I see it!
Tom Fisher
Dallas,TX

HDMI is working for the vast majority of HR20 users, as well as both of my HR20s connected to a Samsung and a Panasonic. Here is the thread to report details of any problems you might have, real, percieved, or self induced. This is the one that the developers look at.

http://www.dbstalk.com/showthread.php?t=70805

You've got the latest software....
If D*'s past STB history is any indicator, odds are it's the *last* software update, too.

HDMI is working for the vast majority of HR20 users, as well as both of my HR20s connected to a Samsung and a Panasonic. Here is the thread to report details of any problems you might have, real, percieved, or self induced. This is the one that the developers look at.
http://www.dbstalk.com/showthread.php?t=70805
And I'm sure this is the same with your H-20 also as this is the H-20 forum.

On the H20, is it possible to use both the HDMI out and S-VID out simultaneously?

All video & audio ouputs on the H20 are simultaneously on, and S-vid & composite always output 480i, regardless of what resolutin the component or HDMI is outputting.

ARXAW--Thanks, that is what I needed.

Question on my H20-600 and Autotune:

When I select a program and Autotune it, during the selected show, the bottom menuguide shows up through out the show with the autotune graphic on it. It's not the full bottom menu guide, but a mini version of it.

Still, it's obtrusive for recording. Is this normal, or a setting somewhere? Do I have to live with that should I burn a DVD or even use my VCR?

Any help appreciated.

Question on my H20-600 and Autotune:When I select a program and Autotune it, during the selected show, the bottom menuguide shows up through out the show with the autotune graphic on it. It's not the full bottom menu guide, but a mini version of it.Still, it's obtrusive for recording. Is this normal, or a setting somewhere? Do I have to live with that should I burn a DVD or even use my VCR? Any help appreciated.
I've seen the same thing on my H-20, but somewhere it changed [over time]. The prompt I'm remembering came up just before the "autotune" was to start. It asked me "yes/no" to autotune. Selecting yes cleared the message.
Are you trying to do an "unattended" recording? I haven't done one of these as I've moved up to the HR-20.
You might try the old "reset" & check your setup menu for the "banner" time. I use 2 seconds, & maybe start your autotune a couple of minutes early for it to time out.
Just some thoughts...

http://www.directv.com/learn/pdf/System_Manuals/DIRECTV/DIRECTV_H20_UG.pdf


Page 14 of the PDF file has a shot of what it looks like, and if you page thru the rest of the manual you'll see some smaller shots of some other menu screens.

Hope this helps.

Thanks Willis for the pdf on the H20!

I've seen the same thing on my H-20, but somewhere it changed [over time]. The prompt I'm remembering came up just before the "autotune" was to start. It asked me "yes/no" to autotune. Selecting yes cleared the message.
Are you trying to do an "unattended" recording? I haven't done one of these as I've moved up to the HR-20.
You might try the old "reset" & check your setup menu for the "banner" time. I use 2 seconds, & maybe start your autotune a couple of minutes early for it to time out.
Just some thoughts...

Thanks for posting.

Yes, I am concerned about unattended recording. I have DVR in another room, but some things I like to move straight to DVD. Portability and all that.

My banner set up is 4 seconds. I can try and change it, but it defies logic. (Which of course means it will probably work).

And yes, if I clear the message before the channel changes, it's not there.

I'll try some things and see what's what. But honestly there's no obvious setting I can find.

Thanks Willis for the pdf on the H20!

No problem. Glad to help.

If it doesn't show you what your looking for, drop me a personal message and I can take a digital image of the screen from the H20 your looking for.

DirecTv just left the house where he added the newest mulit-sat dish and attempted to activate my HR20-700S. Bottom line Tuner 2 was not finding any transponders. He replaced everything! switches (3 times), LNBs, ALL connectors, I really mean everything! He Isolated it to a "bad box". I am skeptical since when we simply switched the cables between Sat 1 and Sat 2, guess what... now Tuner 1 cannot find any transponders, but Tuner 1 was great.

He re-installed my old Receiver/DVR and both Tuners on that box worked great with 98% signals, so I guess he was right that I had a bad HD DVR box. Switching the cables and having the Tuner outage flip-flop just doesn't sync up with my way of thinking.

I am seriously bummed out since I was one of the lucky ones (so I thought) to have found one online at Best Buy. Will return this one, and am now waiting on another one to come in... this time from Circuit City... best Buy is backordered again!

DirecTv just left the house where he added the newest mulit-sat dish and attempted to activate my H20. Bottom line Tuner 2 was not finding any transponders. He replaced everything! switches (3 times), LNBs, ALL connectors, I really mean everything! He Isolated it to a "bad box". I am skeptical since when we simply switched the cables between Sat 1 and Sat 2, guess what... now Tuner 1 cannot find any transponders, but Tuner 1 was great.
He re-installed my old Receiver/DVR and both Tuners on that box worked great with 98% signals, so I guess he was right that I had a bad HD DVR box. Switching the cables and having the Tuner outage flip-flop just doesn't sync up with my way of thinking. I am seriously bummed out since I was one of the lucky ones (so I thought) to have found one online at Best Buy. Will return this one, and am now waiting on another one to come in... this time from Circuit City... best Buy is backordered again!
You say H-20, but are you describing a HR-20 [different forum].

DirecTv just left the house where he added the newest mulit-sat dish and attempted to activate my H20. Bottom line Tuner 2 was not finding any transponders.
The H20 is a single tuner receiver, not a 2 tuner DVR. Please post in the HR20 DVR thread.

The H20 is a single tuner receiver, not a 2 tuner DVR. Please post in the HR20 DVR thread.
The H20-600 show two tuners in the setup menu, one sat & one OTA.

You say H-20, but are you describing a HR-20 [different forum].
Thank you for the correction. It is the HR20-700S, or was... it is now returned as defective :(

Hi all, hope you can clear this up for me....
I had the H20 installed yesterday w/ the slimline 5lnb. Signals are fine except
for 99, which is at zero. However, all my local HD stations are coming in fine.

I am in the Sacramento area, and was under the impression the Sac HD locals are on the 99 bird. Am I wrong regarding this, and if not, how am I receiving these HD locals when the box is telling me it's not seeing the 99?

Thank you much!!!

The H20-600 show two tuners in the setup menu, one sat & one OTA.But it is considered a single tuner receiver WRT how many channels it can simultaneously tune.

...how am I receiving these HD locals when the box is telling me it's not seeing the 99?It is a bug.

It sees it, but can't tell you it does.

If you use component connection and either 720p or 1080i resolution, tune to ch 201, and you'll see the "switch to SD" info banner. I use the component connection with the output set to 1080i on two receivers in my house. They are a Hughes E-86, and a DirecTV HR10-250. They both display 201 fine. I have seen reports of HDMI connections to a non-HDCP compliant display causing an error message, but I've never heard of a down-rez message before.

Hi all, hope you can clear this up for me....
I had the H20 installed yesterday w/ the slimline 5lnb. Signals are fine except
for 99, which is at zero. However, all my local HD stations are coming in fine.

I am in the Sacramento area, and was under the impression the Sac HD locals are on the 99 bird. Am I wrong regarding this, and if not, how am I receiving these HD locals when the box is telling me it's not seeing the 99?

Thank you much!!!

I'm not sure if it's still the case but when my 5lnb was installed back in Jan. the installer said the 99 bird was not brodcasting anything and wouldn't be for quite some time, that is why it errors out in the setup test.

Pat, I've only seen the "switch to SD resolution" message on the H20 receivers, and only when using the component connection.

I'm sure you're correct about component & channel 201. I use HDMI so...
I think my CP problem is more a problem with Microsoft. The minute it "sniffs" CP it shows a blue screen warning. I would guess "normal" copying to VCR [& the like] wouldn't have the same problem. Everybody is so paranoid of anybody have a digital copy of something.
I don't think he is correct about component or composite. I tune to 201 using either component or composite and it works perfect. I may be confused, but I don't understand why anyone would be tuning into 201 as that is only the D* basic channel. Channel 101 might make sense but that also is fine in both component and composite. One might ask why I have both component and composite attached to my TV. The reason is with the OTA in HD and another channel from the D* through composite I can have picture in picture. The OTA is coming thru the TV tuner. My D* is an H20-100

From satelliteguys dot us (http://www.satelliteguys.us/showthread.php?t=58601&highlight=201+hdcp)....

Hi all, hope you can clear this up for me....
I had the H20 installed yesterday w/ the slimline 5lnb. Signals are fine except
for 99, which is at zero. However, all my local HD stations are coming in fine.
I am in the Sacramento area, and was under the impression the Sac HD locals are on the 99 bird. Am I wrong regarding this, and if not, how am I receiving these HD locals when the box is telling me it's not seeing the 99?
Thank you much!!!
Your locals come from the 103 SAT [I'm in the Sac market]. There is a software inconsistency between the -100 & -600 H20s. You seem to have the -100 [doesn't "find" 99], where the -600 doesn't find the 103 [even though locals come in on it].

But it is considered a single tuner receiver WRT how many channels it can simultaneously tune.
You're right [as normal]. To someone new with a -600 & going through the setup menu, they could misunderstand because it show two tuners.

True. Hadn't thought of that....

I had an installer at my house yesterday, I upgraded to HD and had a non DVR H20-100 installed yesterday. The installer told me that it will "always" error out on sat 99 because it's not broadcasting yet.

I had an installer at my house yesterday, I upgraded to HD and had a non DVR H20-100 installed yesterday. The installer told me that it will "always" error out on sat 99 because it's not broadcasting yet.
Well yes & no. As I posted due to software the -100 won't find the 99 SAT. but the -600 does [and won't find the 103, though it receives programing from it]. The 99 SAT is there & in the future will carry programing.

Makes sense.

1- I glad you have it working, as that's the point.
2- I have no idea what you did. It sounds as if you're going through your TV to the H20.
3- I would have tested the antenna [with your TV] for a signal & then connected the antenna [straight] to the H20. In the H20's guide [all channels] you would then find the "XX.1,2,etc" channels along with your D* locals.
Sorry to bring this up again but again I'm still having problems. I'll really just trying to find out if there is something wrong with my H20 OTA tuner. I'll try to explain a bit better this time. My OTA antenna comes in directly to my setup. When I hook it up to the tv, I get 3, sometimes 4 digital channels. My tv has it's own signal meter and it pulls in all channels between 65 and 80 percent. Now if I go and immediately switch and plug the antenna feed into the H20 OTA input, the channels for the most part don't work. If I go to the H20's setup function and check the signal strength's of the channels the tv was pulling in fine on it's own, the meter readings drop significantly (between 0 and at best 40 percent). I hope I made this clear this time. All D* locals come in fine as do all the other channels. It's just the OTA I'm having problems with. I just really want to know if the H20's OTA tuner is no good, or if I just reside with the fact that my tv does a better job of pulling in OTA. Any input would be appreciated.

Sorry to bring this up again but again I'm still having problems. It's just the OTA I'm having problems with. I just really want to know if the H20's OTA tuner is no good, or if I just reside with the fact that my tv does a better job of pulling in OTA. Any input would be appreciated.
I've forgotten if you had the H20-100 or -600. When the signal drops below 50 most of my [4] ATSC tuners stop receiving. If you have a -600, you should have as good a tuner as your TV. If you have a -100, this could explain the problem, as it doesn't have as good a tuner as the -600.
Do you have any "splitters, barrels, or switches" on the antenna cable?
If you think your tuner should be better, have D* send out a replacement.

It matters a lot which H20 you have.

The H20-100 made by RCA has an inferior tuner when compared to the the H20-600 made by LG. If you have the H20-600, I would suspect a bad connection or a def. STB.

Look inside the access card door to see which one you have.

I've forgotten if you had the H20-100 or -600. When the signal drops below 50 most of my [4] ATSC tuners stop receiving. If you have a -600, you should have as good a tuner as your TV. If you have a -100, this could explain the problem, as it doesn't have as good a tuner as the -600.
Do you have any "splitters, barrels, or switches" on the antenna cable?
If you think your tuner should be better, have D* send out a replacement.
I do have the H20-600 and I bought it brand new. I don't have any splitters or anything for that matter attached to the incomming antenna line, just a balun to convert a 300ohm cable I have run from the antenna to 75ohm for input to the tv or H20. I guess I can ask D* to send a new one but in hearing others post about it being a "crap shoot" as to what I might get, maybe I better leave well enough alone.

I do have the H20-600 and I bought it brand new. I don't have any splitters or anything for that matter attached to the incomming antenna line, just a balun to convert a 300ohm cable I have run from the antenna to 75ohm for input to the tv or H20. I guess I can ask D* to send a new one but in hearing others post about it being a "crap shoot" as to what I might get, maybe I better leave well enough alone.
I thought it was a -600. You're right about the crap shoot. Twin lead isn't my favorite.
I would go to: http://www.antennaweb.org/aw/welcome.aspx & check out the channels in your area. It will also give you an idea of what type of antenna to use. I use a big antenna, a pre-amp, & coax, which may be more than you want to use. If you antenna has enough gain, it might be worth upgrading to a pre-amp & coax for the channels you want [or maybe just to use your TV & leave it alone].

If you're using an outdoor antenna, replace the 300 ohm lead in wire with RG6 coax cable.

If you're using an outdoor antenna, replace the 300 ohm lead in wire with RG6 coax cable.
I bought 50ft of RG6, but I just haven't had time to go on the roof and run it yet. I'll try and get it done today and see what happens. In my area I get three locals in high def from D* but the OTA picture seems so much better to me. I don't really want to get involved with a new antenna, etc. As always, thanks for all the help guys.

OTA is better. D* reduces the picture resolution to less than full HD quality, to save bandwidth.

...btw, channel 201 on Directv works fine for me with component (G/B/R) ouputs to Sony HS20 projector via the H20. No copyright protection error for me. Just an FYI.

R_Willis,
H20-100 or H20-600?

R_Willis,
H20-100 or H20-600?

H20-100.

I bought 50ft of RG6, but I just haven't had time to go on the roof and run it yet. I'll try and get it done today and see what happens. In my area I get three locals in high def from D* but the OTA picture seems so much better to me. I don't really want to get involved with a new antenna, etc. As always, thanks for all the help guys.

No question coax is better than twin lead, but by the fact your tv tuner works and the H20 dosen't and all else being equal the problem almost has to be the H20-600. It should be as good or better than the tv.

Roy

H20-100.
I see the message on an H20-600.

h20-600 resets itself 3 -4 times per day
never happened in past
what is the problem? any solutions?
firware 0f14

h20-600 resets itself 3 -4 times per day
never happened in past
what is the problem? any solutions?
firware 0f14
Sound like it's getting too warm. Have you turned the heater on at your house?
Lay a thermometer on top of the unit & see how warm the air coming out of the top of it is. If it's 95-105 degrees that would be normal. If it's around 115, then it needs more [cooler] air. If it's still around 100 & rebooting, then the box needs replacement.

I just got a Samsung LN-S4695D and for whatever reason, I can't get the HDMI through my Directv H20 to sync properly. The picture comes on for a second then its gone but I still hear the audio. I tried a second H20 and had the same issue. Also when using component out on the H20 the picture is there but it blinks off for a split second about every 5 seconds? Any clues, I spent hours on this tonight and have given up for now. Yes, I have the H20 on before I switch to the HDMI input on the Sammy. My H20 works fine on my Sony SXRD 60.

Cheers,

Rick