I just got a Samsung LN-S4695D and for whatever reason, I can't get the HDMI through my Directv H20 to sync properly. The picture comes on for a second then its gone but I still hear the audio. I tried a second H20 and had the same issue. Also when using component out on the H20 the picture is there but it blinks off for a split second about every 5 seconds? Any clues, I spent hours on this tonight and have given up for now. Yes, I have the H20 on before I switch to the HDMI input on the Sammy. My H20 works fine on my Sony SXRD 60.

Cheers,

Rick

An HDMI compatibility problem exists on the H20-100, but only with certain sets. The H20-600 does better with HDMI (and has a better ATSC tuner) but can overheat, causing it to reset.

I just got a Samsung LN-S4695D and for whatever reason, I can't get the HDMI through my Directv H20 to sync properly. The picture comes on for a second then its gone but I still hear the audio. I tried a second H20 and had the same issue. Also when using component out on the H20 the picture is there but it blinks off for a split second about every 5 seconds? Any clues, I spent hours on this tonight and have given up for now. Yes, I have the H20 on before I switch to the HDMI input on the Sammy. My H20 works fine on my Sony SXRD 60.

Cheers,

Rick
Try unplugging the H20 for a minute, then reconnecting the HDMI, then plugging the H20 back in and powering on. (I hope I have that right).

My 100 never liked my HDMI and Sansung, but no issues with the 600.

I have the common H20 HDMI video/audio blackout for a second or 2. The receiver is an OVEN! I have the H20-600 and from what I can tell from reading previous posts the problems are common with this receiver. I called DTV and they said "they're working on it and don't know when the next SW upgrade will be." In the meantime, I changed my HDMI connection from input 1 to input 2. I don't think I've seen any blackout problems since making the change, oddly enough. Give it a try.

One thing I did notice is some noticeable insertion loss associated with the inline B-band converter though. My signal began to pixelize more often with the BBC in line. The BBC won't be useful until some time in 2007. Anyone know when? The Boeing sat launch website just says sometime in 2007.

I have the common H20 HDMI video/audio blackout for a second or 2. The receiver is an OVEN! I have the H20-600 and from what I can tell from reading previous posts the problems are common with this receiver. I called DTV and they said "they're working on it and don't know when the next SW upgrade will be." In the meantime, I changed my HDMI connection from input 1 to input 2. I don't think I've seen any blackout problems since making the change, oddly enough. Give it a try.

One thing I did notice is some noticeable insertion loss associated with the inline B-band converter though. My signal began to pixelize more often with the BBC in line. The BBC won't be useful until some time in 2007. Anyone know when? The Boeing sat launch website just says sometime in 2007.
I had the 600 and told them that it was a fire hazard and I want the 100 series....they gave me some BS about they were working on this issue...I stated that I am not intrested in your problems, I want this replaced ASAP or goodbye D*......They sent the new unit out that day.....

Just for info, had a problem Sunday with an H20-600 hooked to AT9 which, in the middle of a reset (reset initiated because of loss of satellite signal) declared that it was "searching for satellite signal" and the data from satellite percentage never moved from 0%. In the process of troubleshooting with D* tech on the phone ended up swapping out the H20 with one from a second location which exhibited the same problem but first H20 worked in second location so we bypassed the B band converter at the first location which fixed the problem. Bottom line, fwiw, B band convertors might be a weak link in dish to receiver chain. Also, fwiw, the D* tech was excellent and hung right with me through the whole process.

Gunner

Two simple questions;

1) What is the most current firmware for the H20-600?

&

2) Does anyone know the update procedure and codes? When the DTv Install Rep. came out, he hit a few buttons on the remote during boot-up to inititate the update ... but I didn't' get that info from him so I was wondering if there was some generic codes ...

If a D* installer just recently installed the box and did a forced upgrade, you have the latest firmware for your receiver. Any new upgrades will be sent automatically as they become available.

Two simple questions;

1) What is the most current firmware for the H20-600?

&

2) Does anyone know the update procedure and codes? When the DTv Install Rep. came out, he hit a few buttons on the remote during boot-up to inititate the update ... but I didn't' get that info from him so I was wondering if there was some generic codes ...

The latest H20-600 software version is 0F14. You can force an upgrade by pressing the reset button behind the access card door and punching 0-2-4-6-8 on the remote after the first startup screen appears.

My H20 appears to have a problem with my 20" Sharp LCD. I have to turn on the TV before I turn on the box (making the remote's ON button useless).

I understand that the -100 HDMI issue is known, but is anyone else having issues with the -600 HDMI?

My H20 appears to have a problem with my 20" Sharp LCD. I have to turn on the TV before I turn on the box (making the remote's ON button useless). I understand that the -100 HDMI issue is known, but is anyone else having issues with the -600 HDMI?
I've been using both my -100 & -600 H20s through HDMI to my Sony. The Samsung TVs have been the ones with problems through HDMI. I haven't heard of Sharp also being affected. Does it work through component?

I've been using both my -100 & -600 H20s through HDMI to my Sony. The Samsung TVs have been the ones with problems through HDMI. I haven't heard of Sharp also being affected. Does it work through component?

I am 100% sure that I will not have a component issue with this box (same issue with my previous -100). It will work. Just wondering if it might be a bad -600...and a need to replace.

I am 100% sure that I will not have a component issue with this box (same issue with my previous -100). It will work. Just wondering if it might be a bad -600...and a need to replace.
You can try another box [from D*] but it sounds like [for the time being] your Sharp TV may be the problem if you have the same trouble with both the -100 & [now] the -600.
Are you running it through a switch before going to the TV?
Why a "standard" [for HDMI] isn't followed by all manufactures seems dumb [to me]. I worked with engineers who would "take exception" to system requirements [at will], which makes about as much sense.

You can try another box [from D*] but it sounds like [for the time being] your Sharp TV may be the problem if you have the same trouble with both the -100 & [now] the -600.
Are you running it through a switch before going to the TV?
Why a "standard" [for HDMI] isn't followed by all manufactures seems dumb [to me]. I worked with engineers who would "take exception" to system requirements [at will], which makes about as much sense.

No switch.

I wonder if the fact I have to have the TV on before the H20 fires up makes the issue the box, or the TV.....what I mean is, in my scenario, does the H20 look for A/V and then "pitches" via HDMI, or the TV needs to be on in order to "catch" the signal. Make sense?

Also.....a few times when I do not get audio on startup, all I have to do is turn off/on the H20 to correct.

No switch.

I wonder if the fact I have to have the TV on before the H20 fires up makes the issue the box, or the TV.....

I think you can thank the RIAA and its Digital Rights Management requirements for your problem. IIRC, HDMI devices need to verify that the display unit won't allow copying of HD material - which means the display unit has to be on to electronically tell the STB "I'm good" before it opens the connection.

My opinion of the RIAA and DRM can not be posted in a family oriented forum.

Carl

I wonder if the fact I have to have the TV on before the H20 fires up makes the issue the box, or the TV.....what I mean is, in my scenario, does the H20 look for A/V and then "pitches" via HDMI, or the TV needs to be on in order to "catch" the signal. Make sense? Also.....a few times when I do not get audio on startup, all I have to do is turn off/on the H20 to correct.
The HDMI "handshake" is continuous, so it shouldn't matter which is on first. I can turn either on first & they sync. My old Sony HD receiver would lose sync occasionally & all I got was "snow" on any channel. I had to re-power either the TV or receiver to get them to sync. I called Sony [since they made both] & asked about it. They [incorrectly since my H20s don't] told me it was the TV.
It might be worth a call to Sharp & see if they have a software [firmware] update for your TV. Without a "HDMI tester" it's hard to determine which it is [the chicken or the egg], but I've both of my H-20s working through a HDMI to DVI cable, which makes me think it isn't the H-20.

Not sure if this has already been posted...but I have specific information from D* about the H20 lockup/freeze/reboot problem. I had previously posted about the issue I was having with my H20 and 1080i programming. It recently started exhibiting the same behavior occassionally on 480i programming so I finally called D* about it.

The fix is a software fix, HOWEVER, it will not work with the older H20s. The HD department CSR said that if the fix was pushed to my box it would not have enough remaining memory to support normal functions. So, at a minimum, the new H20s have more memory onboard.

Anyway...just wanted to post this for others that may be having trouble. Thanks to "veryoldschool" for pointing me in the right direction to get this issue resolved.

If I have trouble with the new H20 (should be here next week) ... I may have to come back and retract this! Fingers crossed... I do have a cooling fan now, so heat should not be an issue.

Mike W.

Not sure if this has already been posted...but I have specific information from D* about the H20 lockup/freeze/reboot problem. I had previously posted about the issue I was having with my H20 and 1080i programming. It recently started exhibiting the same behavior occassionally on 480i programming so I finally called D* about it. The fix is a software fix, HOWEVER, it will not work with the older H20s. The HD department CSR said that if the fix was pushed to my box it would not have enough remaining memory to support normal functions. So, at a minimum, the new H20s have more memory onboard. Anyway...just wanted to post this for others that may be having trouble. Thanks to "veryoldschool" for pointing me in the right direction to get this issue resolved. If I have trouble with the new H20 (should be here next week) ... I may have to come back and retract this! Fingers crossed... I do have a cooling fan now, so heat should not be an issue. Mike W.
Thanks for your comments, as they are my only reward.
Question: What is the model and manufacturing date of your "older" H20? I'm wondering about what D* told you [as they have been known to misinform just as much as inform]. Changing the amount of memory sounds a little "fishy" to me.
I think I have a fairly early -600 that works fine, so your date code is of interest to me.

You can take this for what it's worth, but I called DirecTV to see if I could exchange my H20-100 for a 600, as I'm also having problems with HDMI output, and the representative I spoke with said that DirecTV engineers had the HDMI problem isolated as of November 21st, and that an update should be coming around the end of December. I'm not sure if that's true, but it's what a customer support representative told me, and he actually sounded like he knew what he was talking about. He was surprisingly knowledgeable about the subjects we covered.

You can take this for what it's worth, but I called DirecTV to see if I could exchange my H20-100 for a 600, as I'm also having problems with HDMI output, and the representative I spoke with said that DirecTV engineers had the HDMI problem isolated as of November 21st, and that an update should be coming around the end of December. I'm not sure if that's true, but it's what a customer support representative told me, and he actually sounded like he knew what he was talking about. He was surprisingly knowledgeable about the subjects we covered.

Every rep I talked to said it was a know problem with the -100, but sharing a specific time frame for the fix is a new one. It is funny the wide range of service we get from D*....I'm sure there are 1st contact CSRs (like yours, if indeed it was not a Tier2 Tech or Retention) that are great. It's a crap-shoot. You do have to be lucky enough to get a call center in the States. ;)

Every rep I talked to said it was a know problem with the -100, but sharing a specific time frame for the fix is a new one. It is funny the wide range of service we get from D*....I'm sure there are 1st contact CSRs (like yours, if indeed it was not a Tier2 Tech or Retention) that are great. It's a crap-shoot. You do have to be lucky enough to get a call center in the States. ;)

I'll believe it when I see it. We can only hope.

You can take this for what it's worth, but I called DirecTV to see if I could exchange my H20-100 for a 600, as I'm also having problems with HDMI output, and the representative I spoke with said that DirecTV engineers had the HDMI problem isolated as of November 21st, and that an update should be coming around the end of December. I'm not sure if that's true, but it's what a customer support representative told me, and he actually sounded like he knew what he was talking about. He was surprisingly knowledgeable about the subjects we covered.
I think I may have talked to the same CSR, as I came away with the same feeling, but time proved it to be "the same old thing".
I'm not sure the engineers have "isolated" the HDMI problem, since they still haven't resolved it with the HR-20's software that came out November 22 [or even this week's version].

...I'm sure there are 1st contact CSRs (like yours, if indeed it was not a Tier2 Tech or Retention) that are great. It's a crap-shoot. You do have to be lucky enough to get a call center in the States. ;)Don't know if it's true or not, but a sat installer told me the best time to play CSR roulette is M-F from 10am-4pm CST. I've always gotten someone in the US if calling during those times, but YMMV...

Don't know if it's true or not, but a sat installer told me the best time to play CSR roulette is M-F from 10am-4pm CST. I've always gotten someone in the US if calling during those times, but YMMV...
Has anybody NOT gotten a call center in the US? All of mine have been [any time of the day or night].

Thanks for your comments, as they are my only reward.
Question: What is the model and manufacturing date of your "older" H20? I'm wondering about what D* told you [as they have been known to misinform just as much as inform]. Changing the amount of memory sounds a little "fishy" to me.
I think I have a fairly early -600 that works fine, so your date code is of interest to me.

MFR Date of my "old" H20-600 is 10/07/05.

MFR Date of my "old" H20-600 is 10/07/05.
Thanks, that is about three months older than mine & must be one of the earliest units. I had a defective "refurb" from 12/?/2005, that would never power up. I'm still not sure there was a memory "upgrade" [as this was a major concern with the unit cost], but I think there was a real quality "issue" at the beginning of the production run.

Has anybody NOT gotten a call center in the US? All of mine have been [any time of the day or night].

Oh yes, I had just recently. It's that certain way the CSR says "Peetar." Besides the obvious accent (trying to be PC here), you are put on hold for the most basic question....get over feeling bad for him/her and hang up. I usually get lucky the second/third time.

I am not saying that a U.S. call goes well all the time. My last one was a CSR that wanted me to call back when the problem occurred (a -100 sometimes would not turn off), even if I was ready to go to bed. She wanted me to stay up and deal with it then. :mad:

Oh yes, I had just recently. It's that certain way the CSR says "Peetar." Besides the obvious accent (trying to be PC here), you are put on hold for the most basic question....get over feeling bad for him/her and hang up. I usually get lucky the second/third time. I am not saying that a U.S. call goes well all the time. My last one was a CSR that wanted me to call back when the problem occured (a -100 sometimes would not turn off), even if I was ready to go to bed. She wanted me to stay up and deal with it then. :mad:
This is a new one. I've had the same lame CSR response, but I [all most] always ask them where they are and so far: Oklahoma, Alabama,, Texas, Idaho, Utah, & Las Vegas is to open soon.
Just what we need is to have a language "issue" added to their [mostly] poor service. I hope your experience was more from who than where D* hired them.

As soon as I tune into a HD program a few minutes later it shuts off then takes about five minutes to come back on. It says it is searching for a satelite signal. It does it all day long. Has anybody had the same problem? Is there a firmware up grade? How do I fix this problem? Direct tv will not deal with this problem! Thank-you!!

As soon as I tune into a HD program a few minutes later it shuts off then takes about five minutes to come back on. It says it is searching for a satelite signal. It does it all day long. Has anybody had the same problem? Is there a firmware up grade? How do I fix this problem? Direct tv will not deal with this problem! Thank-you!!
I guess "we" should start with a questionnaire:
1- What model H-20 is it?
2- Have you run a system test? What does it say?
3- What kind of dish do you have?
4- What do you mean by D* will not deal with this? They will deal with everything [just not fix it].
5- Have you reset the unit?
6- Do your SD channels work?
I'll wait for these answers before we continue.

Just received H20-100 as replacement STB. Does the Autotune function only work when box is on? Seems not to want to turn itself on at designated time. Is this how this box works?

Just received H20-100 as replacement STB. Does the Autotune function only work when box is on? Seems not to want to turn itself on at designated time. Is this how this box works?
Yes.

I am new here. I live about 60 miles NW of NYC. After much grief had my original H20-600 replaced with a 100 for no audio output out of the RCA jacks. Level 1 and 2 refused to believe it, said it was my gear, I said cancel my account . they sent a tech out on their dime to verify problem. Tech verified it was the H20 failing. Installed the 100, left the 600, next day I took the 600 apart and found a power cable half cocked in the main board socket, reseated cable, now the 600 works.. nothing like quality control unless Best Buy bounced the 600 around before I bought it in February.

Installed the 100, left the 600, next day I took the 600 apart and found a power cable half cocked in the main board socket, reseated cable, now the 600 works.. nothing like quality control unless Best Buy bounced the 600 around before I bought it in February.
This is the "state" of manufacturing today. When you streamline the process; you use unskilled assemblers, cut final testing, and stop final inspection. While you can get away with the first, you need to have [one of] the other two to compensate. Inversely, if you empower the first, you can cut the other two [Japan 20 years ago]. It doesn't work [well] to cut assembly costs AND stop final test/inspection.

How do you run a system test? Thank-you!!

How do you run a system test? Thank-you!!
Go to: menu [button] then settings, setup, info & test, then press select. You should see two tabs on the right.
"Around here" you should see the other screens to find transponder power and the like. This is where the answers would be for the next round of questions [I would ask]. Power readings @ 60 or less aren't good.
You will have to give me more info to my "questionnaire" before I could tell you what's what.

1. 600 2. Just did the system check it says tuner 2 failed, and phone failed. 3. 3 lobe high definition dish 4. you are right they won't fix 5. Yes I reset it doesn't help 6. yes

1. 600 2. Just did the system check it says tuner 2 failed, and phone failed. 3. 3 lobe high definition dish 4. you are right they won't fix 5. Yes I reset it doesn't help 6. yes
Failing tuner 2 - says you don't have a off air antenna connected [just the dish]
Failing phone - say you don't have a phone line connected.
I'm not sure what a "3 lobe HD dish" is, but would guess you have a 3LNB oval dish. This means you can only get HD programing from the SAT C [HD channels 70 & up] and no local MPEG-4 channels.
Now I need you to go back into the setup menu & test the "Sat & Ant" just below your system test. If you have the 3LNB dish you need to look at the 101, 110, 119 SATs. Your HD programs come from the 110 [you need to arrow around to change the sat] & it has 3 transponders. The power reading should be above 60.
If they aren't, then this is your problem [searching for sat] & you need to go to the dish & realign it [or move it because something is blocking the path to the SAT].
For the next "round" let me know what your power levels are on the three SATs.

If you've been having problems trying to use this as an OTA HD receiver, then you need to look at your antenna. Go to www.antennaweb.org & see what stations & direction they are to point your antenna.

Learned lesson:

My D* is automatic payment and one month i did not notice that i was charged $ 70 for a service call. This service call was to try and fix the HDMI that quit working. Tech could not fix, informed me (like others have) that only a software fix would do the trick. Was never informed about the $ 70 either by D* or the tech who came to the house. Complained yesterday that i was upset and why pay for something that was under warranty and why pay for something that they couldn't fix anyway. Was also informed that the software did come out last week (they called it 100 C ). After getting home from work, tried my HDMI, still did not work. Checked the setup menu, saw last update was in fact 100 C but was doneloaded in September when unit was installed. In summary, high level tech department still has no clue on what is going on, and also becareful about service calls unless you have the monthly service protection plan. They did credit the $ 70 dollars (thanks) so that buys me 2 tanks of gas for the holidays.

Does the "active" button on the H20 remote work? It does on my HR20

Does the "active" button on the H20 remote work? It does on my HR20

Nope, D* in 12 months has not released a software upgrade to enable the active function on the H20.

Nope, D* in 12 months has not released a software upgrade to enable the active function on the H20.

ok thanks.. Just wanted to make sure. :)

Is not supposed to be enabled yet on the H20 receiver, although it is working on my neighbor's H20. But not well at all.

anyone know where I can buy one at? Directv said they have none. Same with Circuit City and Best Buy! No one can even say when there will any available. Thanks.

I just got connected today with DirecTV and an H20 box. I have one problem -- when the H20 is connected to the phone line, it seems to kill my DSL. I have to disconnect the phone line from the H20 to make the DSL work. Has anyone else heard of this problem? Is it a bad receiver?

I just got connected today with DirecTV and an H20 box. I have one problem -- when the H20 is connected to the phone line, it seems to kill my DSL. I have to disconnect the phone line from the H20 to make the DSL work. Has anyone else heard of this problem? Is it a bad receiver?


Do you have a DSL filter installed between the H20 and the phone line? You need one of those installed at every phone connection except the DSL connection.

Gunner

What he said - I have both. No problems. Make sure you have your DSL filters installed.

Yes. DSL filters must be on every device in your house - EXCEPT the DSL modem, which should be UNfiltered, or connected to the "DSL" side of a double jack filter.

The H20 phone line connection is for PPV billing purposes (and on-screen caller-ID) only. If you don't order PPVs with the remote and don't care about the caller-ID feature, you can leave the phone line disconnected from the H20.

Ok, I found a DSL filter and put it on, and that fixed the problem. Thanks for the helpful replies! For some reason, I had gotten the idea that the DSL filters weren't really necessary but were just there to eliminate noise on the phone lines. Sorry to bother you all with a stupid question.

Ha, stoopid questions alert, here are mine:

I have purchased my TV, and expect all the pieces to be in hand (TV, H20, mount, antenna) for installation next Friday afternoon (hopefully the surprises are to Mrs. Etchasketch and my son, though there may be surprises for me in store as well).

First, IRT Dtv: they never did call to sched my install (receiver and dish are the originals from 1997). Early this week I rec'd hate mail saying I could call to RESET? my install date and stating I agreed to various charges including $ for the hardware and service). I called CS and was sent to Retention, then explaining the deal we'd struck weeks earlier, and providing the confirm).

Thank goodness I kept hard copy notes!

The new agent agreed they had dropped the ball (install attempt was logged as 9999). He further agreed to the prior arrangement (free hardware, free install, $10 credit per month x 12 to match Dish pkg I'd considered, and 4 months free HD pkg to test drive). I said something about my inconvenience and he added a $50 credit and the 8 channel Showtime pkg for 6 months). So, long term customers are given whatever it takes to remain apparently ...

Now, the sat is to be installed Friday 1-5 pm and the LCD "big-box" store does their install (tuneup?) between 4-6 pm. I will have the TV here, so ... guess I will use that during sat install instead of tuning the new HD dish and receiver to my (old but excellent) Mitsubishi CRT? Is this a sensible order -- sat then TV?

I am anxious to see what H20 box I get, uncertain which to hope for (*) and hope for a clean easy experience. But, due to reading this forum I have some considerable angst. Of course, as has been posted in replies, people often are here to get help, so have problems and you don't hear from (read about) those who have no tribble at all.

The new dish I assume (though you know what they say about assume) will be the 5LNB? I have a single LNB. Does the signal route through a single wire? Or, do I need 5 wires (dumb question, hey)? Since I live in a house the third little pig built, running additional wires is no small thing.

What is the installer sposed to do? Meaning, what are their responsibilities? I am tempted to keep the current sys in place until the new sys is ready!

Etchasketch

(*) my local station towers are 1.4 - 4 miles away with good sight line, so I hope either the H20-100 or 600 will work for my location. Since the 100 does not have the heat issue, assuming (there's that word again) it will find good reception, maybe that's better than the 600?

There is really no "tuning" of the satellite and receiver to a TV, so it won't really matter what TV you have in place. If you get a 5LNB dish, there will be 4 wires. If you end up with a 3lnb dish there will be two wires. I would not really worry about which H20 you get - I have had the supposedly troublesome -600 models for months now with absolutely zero issues. Watch those installers, I have never had any good ones. They should mount your dish, aim it, and run the lines into the house. If you get the bigger 5lnb dish, make sure it is mounted securely. I made my guys install it on a pole in the ground rather than hang off the flimsy facia they use down here. Mind you, I had an extra charge for a longer cable run and for burying them in the yard until they reached teh house.

thx Jeff,

Ugh - 4 wires. My current single sat feed penetrates the soffit and then routes through the attic to enter from the ceiling at the AV center area. This is not a fun route, but, I won't be happy with an install less tidy than what I did myself.

The current dish is on a short section of TV tower attached to the house (I did not cut it down since it makes an easy ladder to get on the roof). I have a piece of lumber attached to the tower and the dish bracket attached to that with SS hardware.

So, a quick fascia / soffit install would be sub standard versus what I have now ...

Angst level increasing!

E-S

Ha, stoopid questions alert, The new dish I assume (though you know what they say about assume) will be the 5LNB? I have a single LNB. Does the signal route through a single wire? Or, do I need 5 wires (dumb question, hey)? Since I live in a house the third little pig built, running additional wires is no small thing.
What is the installer sposed to do? Meaning, what are their responsibilities? I am tempted to keep the current sys in place until the new sys is ready!
Etchasketch
The number of cables from the dish [you need] will depend on how many receivers you have. The dish [both 5LNB & 3LNB] have a multi-switch in the LNB assembly. If you have one unit, then one cable.
Installers are at the "bottom of the food chain" for the most part, so keep an eye on what is being done, as you may have to have it re-done. The 5LNB dish weights 37 lbs, so make sure it has a strong mounting. I had "the installer from hell" which required every thing to be re-worked [over three additional trips]. Stand over him & make sure the bolts are tight, the cables, & he uses a power meter to align the dish.

They can\will probably use the same tower for the 5lnb, sounds ideal to me, wish I had one like that. The 4 wires will feed 4 TV's, so you may just be able to terminate the unused 3, if a single feed is all you use. I have mine feeding to a distribution amp in the attic, and the lines run from there down the walls to my various rooms. Very convenient, as it also allows me to tie in my antenna input.

Just keep your eyes on them, I don't trust their installers to do a good job without some "supervision". Be kind to them, though, they seem to have a lot of leeway.

thx VOS: my desire is a single Dtv wire / single Dtv box install (and the guy will love that since the wires are existing, up to snuff, and well managed).

My tower has the dish on one side and 1000w yard lamp on the other. It is very sturdy (I climb this tower, and, ahem, weigh in at > 200 lbs). So, that is no problemo.

Expectations are actually low, so anything better, is better ...

E-S

ps - snorkle, extra rooms get the analog cable feed

pps - if the guy is good, maybe I'll have him run a 2nd wire for future in case I add a recorder, 2nd line

They can\will probably use the same tower for the 5lnb, The 4 wires will feed 4 TV's, so you may just be able to terminate the unused 3, if a single feed is all you use. I have mine feeding to a distribution amp in the attic, and the lines run from there down the walls to my various rooms. Very convenient, as it also allows me to tie in my antenna input.
Is this an amp or just the multi-switch? The four cable feed usually goes the a multi-switch [as mine] and the un-used ports CAN"T be terminated as this shorts the LNB drive power.

pps - if the guy is good, maybe I'll have him run a 2nd wire for future in case I add a recorder, 2nd line
Very good idea. You still have the option to use your older box, so you might use it as the reason [to the installer] for your second line. They are to set you up completely, new dish, cabling, multi-switch, what ever. There is what's called "standard" installation [no burying cables] that limits the cable runs to around 100', after which D* wants you to pay the installer for the "extra".

Well, that's a good point - I have 4 TVs accepting input from the 4 Sat lines (plus two TVs OTA only). The only lines I terminate, come to think of it, are the unused ports on the OTA signal amp. Unlike my old two line 3lnb dish, where I terminated the unused ports on the 8 port distrib amp, I don't have any distrib amp on my 4 line 5lnb (at the time, there wasn't even an option to get one). I simply take a sat line, diplex in an antenna line from the OTA amp, and then a single line runs on down to the wall, where I split apart the OTA and Sat with another reversed diplexer. Heck, now I odn't know what you'd do with unused lines with the 5lnb - just let them hang ?

Well, that's a good point - Heck, now I odn't know what you'd do with unused lines with the 5lnb - just let them hang ?
Yes, you need to leave them "open" for the DC power [LNB] not to be shorted across the termination resistor.

whew, diplexers, amplifiers, OtA feeds ... remember you fellers can go over my head at pretty low altitude ...

is there a flux capacitor :eek: ?

I guess installing extra cables would make some sense, though I have no desire for four boxes. Frankly, if an extra wire was run it could be handy to attach an exterior antenna on that same TV tower.

Is it standard fare to have antenna wire run? I wouldn't be opposed to paying additional fees if not. It's been a while since I crawled in the attic to feed wires up and down the chase-way created for AV, and, ahem, I was younger then.

When buying the TV I also picked up an RCA interior antenna. But, like I posted earlier, my local towers are very close, the sight line is good, and an indoor antenna might be adequate (though less hot than exterior).

Geez, you guys are good ... excellent point about the old box. I do own it and another feed line would make it easy should I decide to light it up. Or, maybe I'd bring on a DVR at some point. Right now I do no recording whatever.

I am sorta fond of the old gear BTW. An engineer buddy of mine designed some of the late '90s chips for the Dtv boxes. That's how I originally got started with sat. He sent me a rig and I did my own install.

So, not sure I understand the consensus opinion, what would be proper for the unused wires?

Thanks gents,
Etchasketch

ps - letting Jurassic Park run with sound muted while my boy does homework. The new TV better be good or we may all miss the Mitsubishi! And, my intended family surprise is diminished. The guys from BB called and sorta gave me away. Don't think the 13 year old got it, though they always know more than you think :cool:

whew, is there a flux capacitor :eek: ?
I guess installing extra cables would make some sense, though I have no desire for four boxes. Frankly, if an extra wire was run it could be handy to attach an exterior antenna on that same TV tower.
Is it standard fare to have antenna wire run? I wouldn't be opposed to paying additional fees if not. It's been a while since I crawled in the attic to feed wires up and down the chase-way created for AV, and, ahem, I was younger then.
When buying the TV I also picked up an RCA interior antenna. But, like I posted earlier, my local towers are very close, the sight line is good, and an indoor antenna might be adequate (though less hot than exterior).
Geez, you guys are good ... excellent point about the old box. I do own it and another feed line would make it easy should I decide to light it up. Or, maybe I'd bring on a DVR at some point. Right now I do no recording whatever.
I am sorta fond of the old gear BTW. An engineer buddy of mine designed some of the late '90s chips for the Dtv boxes. That's how I originally got started with sat. He sent me a rig and I did my own install.
So, not sure I understand the consensus opinion, what would be proper for the unused wires?
Thanks gents,
Etchasketch
ps - letting Jurassic Park run with sound muted while my boy does homework. The new TV better be good or we may all miss the Mitsubishi! And, my intended family surprise is diminished. The guys from BB called and sorta gave me away. Don't think the 13 year old got it, though they always know more than you think :cool:
I wondered how long "the surprise" would last. The installer may reschedule so be prepared.
My recorder [HR-20] has taken over. I couldn't think why I needed one, but to be able to pause live TV is great. When someone asks #$%@^ about something, instead of getting PO'd, I just rewind back to where "I was". Wish real life had this.
If you think you might want to add to your setup, you might get the installer to install a multi-switch. This would mean 4 cables from the dish to the switch. Then as you wanted to add "all you have to do is..." connect to the multi-switch and the new box. BTW, a DVR requires two cables to it.
I think the "regular" antenna would be extra. If you are close to the stations, you can use an indoor antenna. Some come with amps in them to make up for their small size. I use an outdoor because the tower is 62 miles away.
I would skip "multi-plexing" your OTA antenna & the dish as the dish needs DC power for the LNBs. My installer offered it to save a cable run. I use a pre-amp & could figure out how to keep everything from getting too much [or wrong] DC.
Remember installers aren't the brightest light bulbs, so make sure of how they do their job. Some are good and some will spoil your surprise [with several return service calls].

I would skip "multi-plexing" your OTA antenna & the dish as the dish needs DC power for the LNBs. My installer offered it to save a cable run. I use a pre-amp & could figure out how to keep everything from getting too much [or wrong] DC.


With the KA band being used for the new MPEG4 channels D* strongly sugguests that you don't use a diplexor.

With the KA band being used for the new MPEG4 channels D* strongly sugguests that you don't use a diplexor.
Just another good reason.

What a thread. I am sure I could read all 153 pages of this bad boy and find my answers, but in the interest of time I need some help. I got my 200 today, the guy shows up and informs me that the unit does not have the software it needs to let me connect my antenna for HD OTA Locals. He said the software fix may come out first of 2007. Seems I have read replies in this thread that some people can connect an antenna and grab the local OTA HD channels.

Next is there a way to switch between tuners while watching live TV like could be done with the HR10-250? I can't find it anywhere in the manual?

Finally I am hooked up through component and I am missing the top 2 inches of my channel banner when I change channels as well as the bottom 2 inches of the picture (ie the transparent HDNET logo is cut in half at the bottom of my screen. I have hit stretch switched through 720 and 1080 and cant get it to change. Not sure if Native is supposed to be on or off?

To be honest I am dissapointed that I dropped $325 on this upgrade when the local OTA channels that Oklahoma City offers are not even available yet through D*. I feel like I spent the money for a downgrade. They did let me put in for a waiver since I can't receive my locals but I doubt it will go through. Anyway if anyone could help me with the above questions I would appreciate it.

VOS: the surprise would have lasted longer if the BB folks had updated their installer sched. I was on for Saturday (yesterday) but arranged an exchange for next Friday. It seemed logical to me they (whatever they actually do) should be last leg in the process. The "no, don't come now" conversation was strained from my end, wanting to say as little as possible.

Good points about the DVR. It just does not occur to my boy to make remarks when characters onscreen are NOT talking. Then the inevitable question about what was said, my surly reply that I don't know because someone was talking ... well, we have all been there.

Without going too far astray in the reception hardware topic, I find that most of what I recorded in past gathers dust whether hard copy tape, DVD, or digital. Friends rave about hundreds of hours on hard drives (but never watch the show again, just access to delete and make room).

For now, I am live. Like life: no rewind / no replay ...

Msg Rec'd irt the installer(s). I have two installers scheduled the very Friday afternoon when many are packing to go over the river and through the woods to Grandmother's house. The biggest surprise will prolly be if one does not cancel. And, there are bars just down the street. Maybe I should serve refreshments :0) ?

On installer expectations, yah mahn, I get it. Comcast cable guys made an absolute mess of my lines this summer (I'd called about guy wires on a nearby pole, nothing to do with my service, just as a heads up). 120' of ground line later my soffit looks like a railroad track (internet feed, ground wires, exterior audio speakers, existing Dtv feed and ground). That's why I wanted to minimize wires from the new LNB. I'm running out of soffit!

But, if there need to be four wires coming from the new dish (shouldn't have extras terminated), and one is needed to serve the H20, another in case I decide to light up the old box, and two more for the eventual DVR ... guess that's four. Hopefully they can route inside the attic to a switch and I will route to AV area as needed.

I have been lucky with the CSR roulette and will hope for the same with the Installer.

Danke shoen alles,
etchasketch ;)

What a thread. I am sure I could read all 153 pages of this bad boy and find my answers, but in the interest of time I need some help. I got my 200 today, the guy shows up and informs me that the unit does not have the software it needs to let me connect my antenna for HD OTA Locals. He said the software fix may come out first of 2007. Seems I have read replies in this thread that some people can connect an antenna and grab the local OTA HD channels.

Next is there a way to switch between tuners while watching live TV like could be done with the HR10-250? I can't find it anywhere in the manual?

Finally I am hooked up through component and I am missing the top 2 inches of my channel banner when I change channels as well as the bottom 2 inches of the picture (ie the transparent HDNET logo is cut in half at the bottom of my screen. I have hit stretch switched through 720 and 1080 and cant get it to change. Not sure if Native is supposed to be on or off?

To be honest I am dissapointed that I dropped $325 on this upgrade when the local OTA channels that Oklahoma City offers are not even available yet through D*. I feel like I spent the money for a downgrade. They did let me put in for a waiver since I can't receive my locals but I doubt it will go through. Anyway if anyone could help me with the above questions I would appreciate it.

First of all, I think you're in the wrong thread, this is for the non-DVR HD box (H20), not the HD-DVR HR20.

As for your OTA question, go over to the sister site, www.dbstalk.com and check out the DirecTV section. Twice in the past week, D* has made available a pre-release version of the software for the HR20 that includes the OTA function plus the ViiV capability. Monitor that site to see when the next chance to get the code might happen.

... is there a way to switch between tuners while watching live TV like could be done with the HR10-250?WRONG THREAD. This H20 thread is for the H20 HD receivers, not DVRs.

Try the HR20 DVR thread HERE (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=704067&page=75&pp=20).

Have not had new software since July on the H20-600
Any word on when new software will be released?
I am on OF14 since July.
I would have thought newer software would be out
Thanks

Have not had new software since July on the H20-600
Any word on when new software will be released?
I am on OF14 since July.
I would have thought newer software would be out
Thanks
All of D*s software people are working on the HR-20 to get it to work. I think "early next year" for the H-20.

I have the HR 20 also and know that there have been numerous software upgrades.
Active works on the HR 20,but not on the H20
Thanks for the information

All of D*s software people are working on the HR-20 to get it to work. I think "early next year" for the H-20.


I thought that the HR20 and H20 were being handled by two different software groups within D*.

I thought that the HR20 and H20 were being handled by two different software groups within D*.
You may know more about it. The CSRs haven't been able to say more than early next year, so "I figured"...

Just recently got my h20 off the streets. It's an H20-600. It has been working great. It was still new, had it on for 2 weeks, with no problems. I do not even have the new 5lnb dish, still using the 3lnb with another international dish. I get all my locals thru OTA, and the OTA tuner on this thing works good. No complaints. I've never had any overheating or freezing issues. It is in my room in a small stand that is enclosed, with not much space on top/bottom/or sides.

I forced the latest software for my HR 20. With the off air antenna I used to get all the locals with old D* receiver. Now with the HR20 only get channel 3 3.1 and 3.2 the other locals keep search for signal error 771.

My question is the off air tuner any good for the HR 20.

Thanks
mike

I forced the latest software for my HR 20. With the off air antenna I used to get all the locals with old D* receiver. Now with the HR20 only get channel 3 3.1 and 3.2 the other locals keep search for signal error 771.

My question is the off air tuner any good for the HR 20.

Thanks
mike

Please go to http://www.dbstalk.com/showthread.php?t=73033 and post the requested information to help D* correct the problem.

As I understand from the other forum, when you force the latest software you should not contact D* about the issue. That is why put the note here to see anyone else encountered similar problems.
mike

As I understand from the other forum, when you force the latest software you should not contact D* about the issue. That is why put the note here to see anyone else encountered similar problems.
mike
We need to get you to post your HR-20 questions on that forum [link below]instead of this one [for the H-20].
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=704067&page=51&pp=30

As I understand from the other forum, when you force the latest software you should not contact D* about the issue. That is why put the note here to see anyone else encountered similar problems.
mike

True, you are not to call D* about the issue with the 0108 and 010B software levels since they are not general release versions. But D* is monitoring the DBSTalk site for problem reports so that's your communications access to D* coders. If you read the last line in the OP's post it says:
I'll make sure DirecTV sees the thread, and has someone take a look at the guide data.

IMHO, for the latest info and to post issues/problems on the HR20, www.dbstalk.com is the best place to do it.

... That is why put the note here to see anyone else encountered similar problems.THIS THREAD IS FOR THE H20 RECEIVER - NOT THE HR20 DVR.

Post in the HDTV Recorders section.

Thanks for yelling, I was linked to this forum. Now have posted where I am suppose to.

Oldschool - odd about the diplexers for the antenna signal - where my sat cables terminate in my attic, I feed them into one input of a diplexer, and the other input I feed the amped OTA signal, and connect the line actually going to my wall outlet into the output side of the diplexer. I have not had any issues here. Will I be expecting something to jump up and bite my a** here someday ?

Oldschool - odd about the diplexers for the antenna signal - where my sat cables terminate in my attic, I feed them into one input of a diplexer, and the other input I feed the amped OTA signal, and connect the line actually going to my wall outlet into the output side of the diplexer. I have not had any issues here. Will I be expecting something to jump up and bite my a** here someday ?
I'm not quite sure what you mean by "amped OTA".
What I have is a preamp on my OTA which has two parts: 1) the preamp mounted at the antenna and 2) the power [DC] supply downstream. This means the DC for the preamp runs on the coax [just like the LNB power on the SAT coax]. Now what I didn't want to happen was to have the LNB DC drive the preamp as it might be more that it would handle.
If your amp is a distribution amp and not a preamp, there isn't any DC power on the coax. If it is a preamp and both [boxes] are before the diplexer, then you should be alright.
Now as has been noted, when D* starts using the new Ka feeds, you will have problems with diplexing as the new feeds will be in the same frequencies as your OTA signals.
If you aren't using a preamp, you might want to upgrade to one because it works better as you don't amplify the noise [cable loss] before the amp, which keeps your signal to noise optimal, and then run a new coax to solve the future Ka issue.
Maybe since it's working... don't fix it!
As D* upgrades, you can plan to do it then.
I hope this helps you.

The pre-amp is built into my antenna, and I feed 6v DC to it through the cable to the antenna. By amped OTA, I mean I feed that antenna cable into a distribution amp, and the output from the distrib amp is what gets fed to the diplexer along with the separate cable from the dish. Dang, that stinks if I will have to run new cables to each of my 4 TV's just to keep the OTA capabilities. Maybe by then someone will come up with a smart multiplexer like that 3LNB dishes used, where it had an input for the OTA.

The pre-amp is built into my antenna, and I feed 6v DC to it through the cable to the antenna. By amped OTA, I mean I feed that antenna cable into a distribution amp, and the output from the distrib amp is what gets fed to the diplexer along with the separate cable from the dish. Dang, that stinks if I will have to run new cables to each of my 4 TV's just to keep the OTA capabilities. Maybe by then someone will come up with a smart multiplexer like that 3LNB dishes used, where it had an input for the OTA.
The LNB can put out 18 VDC, so you can see why the preamp wouldn't like it.
Sounds like you're set for the time being and yeah it will be a bummer with the Ka, but if you're only using the 3LNB dish, you won't be dealing with Ka as it only comes through the 5LNB dish.

I have the 5LNB dish. I was using the 3LNB as an example of a dish that had a well designed distrib amp with an antenna input. I hope they come up with one similar for the 5LNB, because running new cables down my 35 year old block and plaster walls is not gonna happen easily, if at all.

I have the 5LNB dish. I was using the 3LNB as an example of a dish that had a well designed distrib amp with an antenna input. I hope they come up with one similar for the 5LNB, because running new cables down my 35 year old block and plaster walls is not gonna happen easily, if at all.
Did anybody ever lie to you and say it would be easy? :rolleyes:
Maybe you can come up from under the floor to your TVs. Just a [poor] thought. Where there is a will there is a...
Good luck

Under the floor - that's funny. I live in Florida, we have no under the floor. THis is concrete slab. I did see two possible options from a DirecTV source just now:

3) In theory by moving the b-band converters (you get them with the H20 and HR20) to the outputs from the multiswitch instead of putting them at the receiver will move the Ka-lo signals away from the OTA bands and allow you to diplex in OTA. Until DirecTV 10 and 11 are launched no-one knows for certain if this will work, but DirecTV insiders say it should. This seems the most promising solution for those who can't run another cable for OTA.

4) Investigate DirecTV's new single-cable FTM solution to be released sometime next year - no-one seems to know much about it right now. With this solution, all the satellite signals will be stacked at different frequencies onto a single cable. So you can use wideband splitters instead of multiswitches. There has been some suggestion that this will also be possible for OTA but I haven't got any confirmation of this. If it does handle OTA as well as satellite signals that will be great, you will only need a single cable even to multiple tuner DVRs with OTA. If the FTM system does not handle OTA, all will not be lost for those people who have two cables to their dual-tuner DVR, they can use one for the FTM satellite signal and one for OTA

Under the floor - that's funny. I live in Florida, we have no under the floor. THis is concrete slab. I did see two possible options from a DirecTV source just now:

3) In theory by moving the b-band converters (you get them with the H20 and HR20) to the outputs from the multiswitch instead of putting them at the receiver will move the Ka-lo signals away from the OTA bands and allow you to diplex in OTA. Until DirecTV 10 and 11 are launched no-one knows for certain if this will work, but DirecTV insiders say it should. This seems the most promising solution for those who can't run another cable for OTA.

4) Investigate DirecTV's new single-cable FTM solution to be released sometime next year - no-one seems to know much about it right now. With this solution, all the satellite signals will be stacked at different frequencies onto a single cable. So you can use wideband splitters instead of multiswitches. There has been some suggestion that this will also be possible for OTA but I haven't got any confirmation of this. If it does handle OTA as well as satellite signals that will be great, you will only need a single cable even to multiple tuner DVRs with OTA. If the FTM system does not handle OTA, all will not be lost for those people who have two cables to their dual-tuner DVR, they can use one for the FTM satellite signal and one for OTA
I thought about the slab, after...
The relocation of the BBC is the most promising. The FTM [I'm told] is for the HR-20 & I don't think the H20 will work with it. Then again, I've been wrong before so...

I'm getting (thru Directv) a new HD STB on Dec 26. Does anyone know if they come with an HDMI cable??

I'm getting (thru Directv) a new HD STB on Dec 26. Does anyone know if they come with an HDMI cable??
No cable.
www.MonoPrice.com has good prices for your HDMI cables. I got two from them.

I'm getting (thru Directv) a new HD STB on Dec 26. Does anyone know if they come with an HDMI cable??

No cable but on the HR20 install video, that was for open viewing for awhile, they tell the installer to use the best connection possible between the HR20 and the HD set, which is HDMI, then component, and they are supposed to supply the cable. Or as the other post said, go to monoprice and just order one and save some hassle.

Quick question about the H20:

I just had a free H20-100 installed and am using an HDMI cable with a Sharp LC-26D40U.

I have the Sharp hooked up to my HTR via its Coaxial DA output. Everything had worked fine when using the ATSC tuner...but I'm not getting any DA output from the TV's HDMI connection. The HTR is not picking up a DD or PCM signal.

1) Does the H20-100 send a digital audio signal through HDMI when available?
It's sending audio (heard through TV speakers) but unsure if it's sending DA.

2) Is the Sharp LC-26D40U capable of outputting any DA signal other than one received off the ATSC tuner?
The manual has no clear answer...but I'd assume it can output any DA that's received.

3) err...How can I get this to work?

I'm alright with connecting a separate optical cable...but am not keen on using an adapter/splitter (my receiver only accepts one optical,one coaxial).

Quick question about the H20:
I just had a free H20-100 installed and am using an HDMI cable with a Sharp LC-26D40U. I have the Sharp hooked up to my HTR via its Coaxial DA output. Everything had worked fine when using the ATSC tuner...but I'm not getting any DA output from the TV's HDMI connection. The HTR is not picking up a DD or CM signal.
1) Does the H20-100 send a digital audio signal through HDMI when available?
It's sending audio (heard through TV speakers) but unsure if it's sending DA.
2) Is the Sharp LC-26D40U capable of outputting any DA signal other than one received off the ATSC tuner?
The manual has no clear answer...but I'd assume it can output any DA that's received.
3) err...How can I get this to work?
I'm alright with connecting a separate optical cable...but am not keen on using an adapter/splitter (my receiver only accepts one optical,one coaxial).
I think you found what I just did with my new Sony. The optical output is only for the internal tuner.
HDMI sends audio but the TV only sends the internal tuner's audio out the optical port.
Sony & it seems Sharp blew it with their design.

Quick question about the H20:

3) err...How can I get this to work?



If your receiver is not HDMI capable then you will have to run the optical or coax from the H20 directly to your receiver and bypass the TV. Use the HDMI for video.

If your receiver was HDMI you could connect the H20 HDMI to it and run the receiver HDMI out to your TV/Display. That's how most newer receivers are connected, the audio doesn't get to the TV in most setups.

I don't know of a TV that converts HDMI audio input to a digital output, there is a conversion involved.

I am about to get DirecTV, do I have to get the OTA antenna to receive my local channels?

I am about to get DirecTV, do I have to get the OTA antenna to receive my local channels?
Yes. The dish will get the signals from the SAT and an antenna will receive the channels broadcast in your area.

Yes. The dish will get the signals from the SAT and an antenna will receive the channels broadcast in your area.
No! The dish receives the locals if they are part of your subscription package. If you have HD then you might find that the antenna receives a better signal.

Both of the above are correct. If DirecTV offers locals through sat in your area, then you don't need an antenna. If they don't, or they do, but not in HD, you will want an antenna to pick up your local channels in HD (or at all).

I have had an H20 for several months now. I understand that the modem connection is just for PPV and caller ID. I have DSL coming into my house with a DSL filter in a control box (structured wiring) sending the filtered phone line to all phone outlets in the house. Whenever I plug the H20 phone line into the wall outlet I immediately get low volume static on all the phones in the house. As soon as I disconnect the H20, static goes away. I have tried different cables and different jacks but same result. Therefore, it appears as though the H20 connection is generating static on the phone line at all times. Any suggestions? Anybody else experience this?

I also have DSL and a H20 connected to the phone lines, but I do not have this issue. Have you tried simply adding another DSL filter at the H20 ? Do you have so many devices connected to the phone system in your house that you have exceeded the limits of the system ?

Hi all
I am new to the forum and new to HDTV, so if I have posted this in the wrong thread please move it or tell me where it fits the best. Also please feel free to give me any suggestions/improvements regarding how I have posted this message.

I don’t actually have HDTV service yet as it will be installed in January 2007, but I have purchased the TVs. I have some questions about cabling to and from the H20 receiver.

Here is the background and situation:

Direct TV customer since 2002. Live in Philadelphia Pa. I receive local and premium channels through my current service.

My old TV sets were purchased in 1995 and before DIRECT TV service they were connected to cable TV. I have one oval dish on the roof, two Hughes receivers( GAEB0) and two TV’s, one in the bedroom the other in the family room.

During the install in 2002 the installer used some of the existing cable run in the house between the dish and the TV in the family room. All cables from the dish come through the wall in the bedroom. The TV in the bedroom is connected directly from the cable coming from the dish. The TV in family room is connected by having the cable from the dish connected to the old cable TV cable which then runs out of the bedroom to the TV in the family room.


New TVs purchased are 32 inch LCD Panasonic TC-32LX60 in bedroom,
50 inch plasma Pioneer PDP-5071HD in family room and these are currently operating using my standard DIRECT TV service and equipment.

I am getting the HDTV upgrade from DIRECT TV. They are supposed to be sending 2 H20 receivers and installing a 5 LNB dish. I am supposed to be able to receive local HD through DIRECT TV.

I am confused about boxes, connections, cables and….everything, so here are my questions.



1. What type of connection is supposed to be running from the H20 box to the TV? I think that HDMI sounds like the best, but the TV manuals just show a cable running from the box to the ANT/Cable connector which doesn’t look like HDMI to me. Is this just the standard thing or should the box be connected into the HDMI connection?

2. My current set up in the living room has the cable running into the
DVR(Panasonic DMR-ES40V) and then out of it to the TV. Where will the DVR be connected using HDTV since it is not a HD recorder. if I end up using the HDMI for the TV connection will the recorder get connected directly to the H20 box and what will the connections on the box be?


3. What type of cable is supposed to be coming from the dish? I currently have a cable with a label of RG6 on it. Is this OK or does it need to be an HDMI cable?

4. To reach the family room a second RG6 cable from the dish gets connected to the previous Cable TV cable that was installed in the year 1995. This cable has E83032 F655VX CATVX printed on it. Should this existing cable be replaced with something else?

5. Should I call DIRECT TV and ask them to include running a new cable if this is needed or will the installer do this for me. He can charge me I don’t care.

6. I checked out the MONOPRICE web site for HDMI cables. What is the difference/advantage between tin plated, sliver plated and gold plated HDMI cables? Does the H20 need any particular type of HDMI cable?

7. I see mention of component cables, how are these different from the RG6 cable that is coming from my current dish and could these be used to go into or out of the H20 receiver with good results?


8. The equipment is not here so I don’t know what box I am getting but from the forum messages so far there seem to be the H20-100 and the H20-600. One is older one is newer, both with issues? Which one should I request?


9. I currently receive my local channels via DIRECT TV and I am supposed to be in one of the markets that can receive local HDTV channels. Should I get an OTA antenna anyway? If I decided to add one later will these work from the inside or do they need to be mounted outside? I cannot get up to the roof – 3 story house and I am not going up there.

10. Is there a place in the H20 receiver for the OTA antenna. If so will the receiver just know to look there for the locals or will I have to always adjust it.

11. If I get the OTA do I need one for each receiver or can these receivers somehow share one antenna feed?

12. Does the H20 deliver power to the OTA antenna(if power is needed) and if so do I need auxiliary power or anything like that.

I know the installers are supposed to know about all of these questions but I don’t want to just be left at their mercy if you know what I mean, and I think there may be a better range of ideas and suggestions here on the forum.

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

Wow, that's a lot. I will try my hand at at least some short answers, and maybe others can pick and grab with some more in-depth answers. See in-line below


1. What type of connection is supposed to be running from the H20 box to the TV? I think that HDMI sounds like the best, but the TV manuals just show a cable running from the box to the ANT/Cable connector which doesn’t look like HDMI to me. Is this just the standard thing or should the box be connected into the HDMI connection?

For HD you need either DVI, HDMI, or component. Do not use cable, s-video, or composite.

2. My current set up in the living room has the cable running into the
DVR(Panasonic DMR-ES40V) and then out of it to the TV. Where will the DVR be connected using HDTV since it is not a HD recorder. if I end up using the HDMI for the TV connection will the recorder get connected directly to the H20 box and what will the connections on the box be?

If you don't care about recording in HD, you can simply use the s-video out from the H20 into the VCR to record, and run the HD connection from the H20 to your TV, since both are live simultanously. However, this means you will only be able to record what you are tuned to. To record HD, or record a differ channel and watch another, you will need to sat feeds to that location.


3. What type of cable is supposed to be coming from the dish? I currently have a cable with a label of RG6 on it. Is this OK or does it need to be an HDMI cable?

This should be fine, it is what I have.

4. To reach the family room a second RG6 cable from the dish gets connected to the previous Cable TV cable that was installed in the year 1995. This cable has E83032 F655VX CATVX printed on it. Should this existing cable be replaced with something else?

This is not supposed to be optimal, but this is exactly the situation in my house, and I have not had any problems.

5. Should I call DIRECT TV and ask them to include running a new cable if this is needed or will the installer do this for me. He can charge me I don’t care.

The installer is independant, he will do whatever you want, so long as you are willing to pay.

6. I checked out the MONOPRICE web site for HDMI cables. What is the difference/advantage between tin plated, sliver plated and gold plated HDMI cables? Does the H20 need any particular type of HDMI cable?

Personally, I don't see any advantage, others will disagree. H20 does not need anything special.

7. I see mention of component cables, how are these different from the RG6 cable that is coming from my current dish and could these be used to go into or out of the H20 receiver with good results?

RG6 is always used to feed the raw signal to the receiver. These other cables are used to connect the receiver to the TV.


8. The equipment is not here so I don’t know what box I am getting but from the forum messages so far there seem to be the H20-100 and the H20-600. One is older one is newer, both with issues? Which one should I request?

I have had only the -600, it works just fine for me. Others have had problems, and vice-versa. I don't believe you have the option of specifying.


9. I currently receive my local channels via DIRECT TV and I am supposed to be in one of the markets that can receive local HDTV channels. Should I get an OTA antenna anyway? If I decided to add one later will these work from the inside or do they need to be mounted outside? I cannot get up to the roof – 3 story house and I am not going up there.

I would get one installed outside from the get-go. That way you have a backup for when (if) the sat goes out, and also OTA will bring you the maximum picture quality on HD, presently.

10. Is there a place in the H20 receiver for the OTA antenna. If so will the receiver just know to look there for the locals or will I have to always adjust it.

Yes, there is a place. The receiver can scan for locals.

11. If I get the OTA do I need one for each receiver or can these receivers somehow share one antenna feed?

They can share one OTA feed, just use a distribution amp for the OTA cable, and diplex onto the sat cables. Don't let anyone tell you you can't diplex OTA with the new 5lnb dish - it can be done.

12. Does the H20 deliver power to the OTA antenna(if power is needed) and if so do I need auxiliary power or anything like that.

No, you will need to inject power to any powered antenna. It is not difficult.



Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

No! The dish receives the locals if they are part of your subscription package. If you have HD then you might find that the antenna receives a better signal.

Yes, all of my local channels are available in my area, but how much better is the PQ on the OTA antenna then the dish? is it worth buying?

I'll get me butt flamed for this, but to my eye, on my 65" rear projection, the difference is subtle. A good OTA setup is not expensive, I still think it is a good thing to have, if the option is there.

I'll try to answer some of these.

Reviewing the H20 manual will probably answer a lot of your questions.
You can find the manual for the H20 @ http://www.directv.com/learn/pdf/System_Manuals/DIRECTV/DIRECTV_H20_UG.pdf

What type of connection is supposed to be running from the H20 box to the TV? I think that HDMI sounds like the best, but the TV manuals just show a cable running from the box to the ANT/Cable connector which doesn’t look like HDMI to me.

Depends on what type of TV you have and the inputs available on it. Outputs from the back of the H20 include from lowest quality to highest quality:
-composite (usually a yellow RCA female)
-s-video
-component video (green, blue, and red RCA females)
-HDMI


3. What type of cable is supposed to be coming from the dish? I currently have a cable with a label of RG6 on it. Is this OK or does it need to be an HDMI cable?


RG6 or RG6(QS). QS stands for quad-shield, just has more shielding....


6. I checked out the MONOPRICE web site for HDMI cables. What is the difference/advantage between tin plated, sliver plated and gold plated HDMI cables? Does the H20 need any particular type of HDMI cable?


Cable hype. Just grab the cheapest HDMI cable that fits your needs (length) on Monoprice and you'll be fine. Different metals/platings have more/less resistance and are "said" to transmit signals better and more clearly. H20 doesn't require a certain HDMI cable.


7. I see mention of component cables, how are these different from the RG6 cable that is coming from my current dish and could these be used to go into or out of the H20 receiver with good results?


Component (green/blue/red) cables are used between the H20 box and your display (TV). They are NOT used between the dish and the H20 box.


8. The equipment is not here so I don’t know what box I am getting but from the forum messages so far there seem to be the H20-100 and the H20-600. One is older one is newer, both with issues? Which one should I request?


They'll bring/send whatever they want. Doubt you'll get a choice. Not that it really matters anyway.

the -600 runs hotter, may have a better OTA tuner (picks up weaker/distant signals better)

the -100 runs cooler and is a bit larger in size


9. I currently receive my local channels via DIRECT TV and I am supposed to be in one of the markets that can receive local HDTV channels. Should I get an OTA antenna anyway? If I decided to add one later will these work from the inside or do they need to be mounted outside? I cannot get up to the roof – 3 story house and I am not going up there.


To get the directv locals in HDTV you need the new AT9 5lnb dish. It can be seen here: http://www.solidsignal.com/prod_display.asp?PROD=AT59&xzoom=zoom
Normally directv will upgrade you to this dish and the H20 for ~$99.
You can put a antenna in your attic (this is what I've done) and connect it to your H20 and pick up OTA HDTV this way (depending on how far from the towers you are). OTA (antenna) HDTV locals will be better quality (crisp/clear/vibrant) then Directv because of the lack of compression/additional encoding. Not that the locals in HiDef look bad thru directv, just not quite as good.


10. Is there a place in the H20 receiver for the OTA antenna. If so will the receiver just know to look there for the locals or will I have to always adjust it.

Yes. When doing the initial setup of the H20 you enter primary and secondary zip codes and it'll scan your area for stations.


11. If I get the OTA do I need one for each receiver or can these receivers somehow share one antenna feed?

You could run one RG6 out of the antenna to a splitter (and split it 2, 3, 4.. times) then run a RG6 to each receiver from the splitter. Splitting the signal will cause a small loss in signal strength. They make amplified splitters.


12. Does the H20 deliver power to the OTA antenna(if power is needed) and if so do I need auxiliary power or anything like that.
No power needed @ most antennas (passive).

Hi all I am new to the forum and new to HDTV, Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
I think most of your questions have been answered.
HDMI is digital, component is analog. Both are HD. If your new TVs have HDMI, I would use this over component. The others are analog SD.
I will be the one to tell you not to diplex your OTA & SAT signals because soon the Ka part of the 5LNB dish will be working and this will be in the same frequencies as your OTA signals. Make life easy, & run a separate cable for your OTA.

Agreed with oldschool about the potential diplexing situation, however, I have been further researching this, and moving the band convertor upstream of the OTA diplexer should work. That being said, if running multiple cables is neither a structure problem, nor a financial burden, there would be no reason not to do so in lieu of stacking signals.

I'll get me butt flamed for this, but to my eye, on my 65" rear projection, the difference is subtle. A good OTA setup is not expensive, I still think it is a good thing to have, if the option is there.
We will both go down in flames cause OTA HD still is the best PQ. The new MPEG-4 on the HR-20 is damn good though.

Has there been any word if there is a 'next' generation HD IRD in the works? Perhaps a bit smaller in size. H20 has been out for a while, longer than the recent IRD models had been out for.

Agreed with oldschool about the potential diplexing situation, however, I have been further researching this, and moving the band converter upstream of the OTA diplexer should work. That being said, if running multiple cables is neither a structure problem, nor a financial burden, there would be no reason not to do so in lieu of stacking signals.
The downside of moving the BBCs upstream [there just is no free lunch] is additional cable loss at the higher frequencies. It may bite you, it may not. This would depend on how much cable. D* would have mounted them at the dish if this wasn't a problem. But as alway this is just IMO [I don't think anybody is humble with theirs].
A.K.A. VOS

Yes, you are correct. However, given a decent RG6 plant, with the convertors no more than 50' upstream, you have a real good chance. I'm also hearing better things about the potential FTM system, although that seems to be a ways down the road for homeowners.

Yes, you are correct. However, given a decent RG6 plant, with the converters no more than 50' upstream, you have a real good chance. I'm also hearing better things about the potential FTM system, although that seems to be a ways down the road for homeowners.
I've only hear the FTM working with the HR-20. As for the cable loss; nobody will know until they try it. If the signal is strong enough, if the cable isn't too long, if there aren't any barrels, if .... the RF gods want you to have it.

I posted back on 12/08/06 (see pg#151) about my H20-600 issues and D*'s comments. They sent me refurbished H20-100 (MFR Date 06/09/2006), and so far so good. I can finally what HD content again! I was concerned that it may not pull in off-air channels as well as the -600 (heard LG was better at this)...but I actually pick up several more now, and the others are just as strong.

There must have been either a CPU or Memory upgrade included in these new boxes, because it is MUCH faster overall...the guide navigation, switching between 480i and 1080i, channel surfing, and guide download are all very quick compared to my old H20. Plus, it runs MUCH cooler. I still put a fan on top to pull air through, but it is barely warm with the fan on the lowest speed (even after a few hours of HD).

I'm not 100% sure, but I think the SD material looks better as well. Maybe the increased processing power helps with that too...

Hope it lasts me... I can't wait to get more HD content from D*...then maybe I'll re-activate the HD package. ;-)

BTW - The software version listed in the setup screen is 100C (installed 11/??/2006).

Mike W.

Yeah, a lot of ifs in there VOS.... I hear the FTM will not be dependant on the HR20, but then again, we are talking about something that's not been seen outside some lab somewhere.

Yeah, a lot of ifs in there VOS.... I hear the FTM will not be Dependant on the HR20, but then again, we are talking about something that's not been seen outside some lab somewhere.
Considering your "options" [or lack of] the only way to know is to try.
I hope [the RF gods like you &] it does work out for you. I've more experience with much higher frequencies, where every foot of cable is a dB of loss.
I hope you don't hit the upper limit of your diplexers. The cable loss could be helped with an in-line amp that compensates for slope [roll off].
Just some thoughts for you.

I think you found what I just did with my new Sony. The optical output is only for the internal tuner.
HDMI sends audio but the TV only sends the internal tuner's audio out the optical port.
Sony & it seems Sharp blew it with their design.

Thanks for the replies. It's just too bad that I can't have a couple HDMI cables running to the TV and a single DA cable running to the home theater receiver. I suppose it's a bit less clutter though :cool:

Has there been any word if there is a 'next' generation HD IRD in the works? Perhaps a bit smaller in size. H20 has been out for a while, longer than the recent IRD models had been out for.

I haven't heard a peep about any new HD receivers in the D* pipeline.

I just noticed a new update and thought I'd see if my reciever would record the OTA locals now, because I live in the boonies but can get the CW locally in HD and really like Smallville. So I hooked my attenna up and hit record after finding where the signal was coming from and BOOM! I'm recording an OTA channel. Did this just happen or have I just missed it for awhile? I thought it still couldn't do that, but maybe I just missed checking an update out. Either way, I'm glad to be able to record the OTA now. I can still only record two channels at once though. I figured I'd be able to record two and watch one live, but guess not.

Did this just happen or have I just missed it for awhile? I thought it still couldn't do that, but maybe I just missed checking an update out.
Well if this is the forum you look for info about your recorder, you will miss a lot as this one is for the RECEIVER & not the recorder.
You might want to look at the HR-20 forum, unless you want info about the H-20 which is here.

Has there been any word if there is a 'next' generation HD IRD in the works? Perhaps a bit smaller in size. H20 has been out for a while, longer than the recent IRD models had been out for.
"Next generation", hell they haven't even gotten the bugs out of these two models.

It's just too bad that I can't have a couple HDMI cables running to the TV and a single DA cable running to the home theater receiver. I suppose it's a bit less clutter though :cool:
Yeah, I thought that would be a nice way of doing things too, but alas...

WOW!

Everyone thanks for the quick answers.

I already have to RG6 cables coming in from the current dish and it sounds like the HDTV signal can use the existing catv cable running to the family room is ½ floor below the bedroom so I wonder if replacing this cable would give a stronger signal to this box? Not sure.


Still on the fence about the OTA antenna. I used antenna org and found that all of the locals I currently watch are transmitted from one location 8 miles from me. I know where this is as it is in a section of the city with a very high elevation. You can see all of the towers when you drive by. I don’t watch the locals that much so if the picture from DTV is not that bad maybe I don’t need the OTA antenna. Still need to think about this.


I have downloaded the H20 manula and will give it a look.
My equipment install is scheduled for the end of the first week in January.

Thanks again.

Only 8 miles from the antennas, and high elevation ? You can probably get great OTA HD with a subtle indoor antenna then. There'd be no reason not to take advantage, in my opinion.

Yeah I know. I am surrounded by high buildings but maybe I could just put it in the back yard or try an inside one . I live in a historic district and they frown on a lot of stuff being visible and we cannot have visible wire runs so I think I can get away with the dish since one is all ready there but not sure about both the dish and antenna on the roof.
You think inside might actually work?

You never know - I'd first try a cheap bow-tie antenna on top of the TV, at the least. You will only be out $10....

Yeah I know. I am surrounded by high buildings but maybe I could just put it in the back yard or try an inside one . I live in a historic district and they frown on a lot of stuff being visible and we cannot have visible wire runs so I think I can get away with the dish since one is all ready there but not sure about both the dish and antenna on the roof.
You think inside might actually work?
Option #2: use a small outdoor antenna in your attic [if you have one].
Things to think about:
The height [above the ground] of the OTA antenna is the most important aspect to how well it works.
Tall building in your area will give reflections that degrade your reception, requiring a more directional antenna to reduce signals entering in from off axis.
Metal, tile, or stone roofs are hard for signals to penetrate.
Coax can be run through gutters & downspouts to hide them.
Roof mounted OTA antennas work the best. In your situation, you might need to have it out of view from the street, but I believe by law you are allowed to have one.
An OTA antenna is a good backup for when the SAT signal fails do to storms.

I already have to RG6 cables coming in from the current dish and it sounds like the HDTV signal can use the existing catv cable running to the family room is ½ floor below the bedroom so I wonder if replacing this cable would give a stronger signal to this box? Not sure. Thanks again.

The 5-LNB dish has four outputs from it. The installer will run RG6 coax from the dish to their destinations within your home. You will not have a cable from a receiver in one room to a receiver in another; each RG6 cable will come from the dish.

If that involves fishing cable thru walls or in attics, you might have to pay extra--the installers are contractors with D* and their policies differ.

If you need more than four lines into your home, the installer will use a multi-switch.

Normally, this is all free, unless it involves more work than they want to do. :(

possibly. any ideas?
I have an H20 which is connected to a SONY STR-DA5200ES. THe SONY receiver is supposed to upscale everything to 1080p, however, I don't see any change in picture quality. I have since been told that since the H20 has its own upscaling, the SONY is bascially doing nothing. Does anybody know whether setting the H20 to 480i will allow the SONY to do the upscaling?

I have an H20 which is connected to a SONY STR-DA5200ES. THe SONY receiver is supposed to upscale everything to 1080p, however, I don't see any change in picture quality. I have since been told that since the H20 has its own upscaling, the SONY is bascially doing nothing. Does anybody know whether setting the H20 to 480i will allow the SONY to do the upscaling?

Sorry I dont know the answer to your question. I wanted to ask you how do you like the receiver, other then the issue above. $1499. on Crutchfield. I've been thinking about it.

I have an H20 which is connected to a SONY STR-DA5200ES. The SONY receiver is supposed to upscale everything to 1080p, however, I don't see any change in picture quality. I have since been told that since the H20 has its own upscaling, the SONY is basically doing nothing. Does anybody know whether setting the H20 to 480i will allow the SONY to do the upscaling?
Setting the H-20 to 480I or 480P should give you the crappy picture you're looking for. You could also use the S-video, composite video connection to do the same thing. Remember you might need to toggle the format button on the remote to get the right resolution you want.

Only looking to improve the picture quality with the SONY upscaler. Why are you suggesting that I am looking for a crappier picture?

THe receiver is great otherwise. I actually got it for $$1100.00 so it was a little less painful on the wallet.

Only looking to improve the picture quality with the SONY upscaler. Why are you suggesting that I am looking for a crappier picture?
You have a very nice Sony unit, but I don't think you will get any improvement over the upscaling of the H-20. Not that the H-20 is the best thing in the world.
The signal comes in digital to the H-20 & needs to be decoded to send it out. If the H-20 does the upscaling, it's done in one process [step]. It can do this in 1080I. Your Sony can convert this from "I" to "P". I doubt your eye can tell any difference. I have my H-20 set for 1080I and my Sony TV changes it to "P" for the flat panel display.
Now if you have the H-20 decode to 480 [anything] and then your Sony upscale it to 1080 [anything], you've got two conversion steps, which may not do as well.
My "crappy picture" crack was in reference to 480 resolution [as I think it is to a 1080 picture].

THe receiver is great otherwise. I actually got it for $$1100.00 so it was a little less painful on the wallet.

$1100! Hmm! :) Thats better the $1500

1080i is 32fps and 1080p is 60 fps right? I think if your going to watch a lot of sports like football and hockey the "p" is better.. ESPN does the 720p. The "i" can't keep up with the action of the game when viewed up close. I'll get a 1080p at some point. Prices are coming down maybe another year till it will be real aforable.

1080i is 32fps and 1080p is 60 fps right? I think if your going to watch a lot of sports like football and hockey the "p" is better.. ESPN does the 720p. The "i" can't keep up with the action of the game when viewed up close. I'll get a 1080p at some point. Prices are coming down maybe another year till it will be real affordable.
No, 30 frames. 720P is 30 also. What's the difference? 720P has the whole picture & 1080I shows twice as much picture every other frame. Bandwidth is the same so the "bits" are the same. If you get half the picture you can get the whole picture, or you can get a twice as big picture half the time. The human eye can't see the "flicker" at 30 frames.
There are no 1080P broadcasts, nor under the current system [bandwidth] will there ever be.
Every marketing department is "pushing" their features, but that's just to sell new hardware. It basically comes down to "the dots". The more you have the sharper the picture.
If you're playing video games, speed it life, so sure. If you're watching TV, you're limited to the broadcast bandwidth.
My new Sony 46" flat panel 1080P looks great. Is it the "P"? No. Is it the 1080? Yes, because I've got twice the resolution over a cheaper 720 display.
With 50 years watching TV & 30+ years in Hi-tech, I need to see the difference before I believe it. IMO. YMMV.

SONY advertises that has a Farouja DCDi cinema upscale chip in the 5200ES. Do you think that the H20 upscaler is as good? I will try both ways and see if there is a difference. Thanks for the input.

SONY advertises that has a Farouja DCDi cinema upscale chip in the 5200ES. Do you think that the H20 upscaler is as good? I will try both ways and see if there is a difference. Thanks for the input.
As you should do since in the end it should be your eyes that will tell and not the marketing department.
The H-20 may not be as good, but be "good enough" for you not to be able to tell, since it will do the conversion in one step [verses two].
Your Sony will have a more noticeable effect on non HD signals [i.e. DVDs] than signals from the H-20.

Veryoldschool

The house is 3 story no attic but hmm.. there is a crawl space up there because the central ventilation fan for the bathrooms is up there, along with HVAC air return ducts, so maybe a small antenna would fit All of my local stations are coming from one direction so I could point something in that one direction.

I still like the roof idea but just not sure how the antenna would be secured and out of site in the front.

I have an old TV around here so maybe I will stick a cheap antenna on it, turn it on and see what I get.

Paulman182

“more work than they want to do” Ha ha. There are two RG6 lines coming from my current dish, but one line is getting connected to the existing old CAT TV cabling in the house which already was running to the family room. I was thinking of asking the installer to rip that cabling out and replace it with the RG6 line if it would be better so they will probably want to charge me for that. Will they even bring cable or will I have to supply it all?

I was thinking of asking the installer to rip that cabling out and replace it with the RG6 line if it would be better so they will probably want to charge me for that. Will they even bring cable or will I have to supply it all?
"Standard" installation is: a new dish, new cables [RG6] to all your receivers, & a multi-switch if needed. Cable runs are to be "about" 100' limit. Underground installation is not "standard". I'm not sure a lengthy OTA antenna is part of it.
Fishing cables through the walls for a nice clean look may not fit "standard", but drilling a hole in the wall or floor is.
Do you have a chimney to mount your OTA antenna?

Well if this is the forum you look for info about your recorder, you will miss a lot as this one is for the RECEIVER & not the recorder.
You might want to look at the HR-20 forum, unless you want info about the H-20 which is here.
Figured that out, thanks though. Used to have the H20 though, the HR20 is the same thing pretty much with recording.

No, 30 frames. 720P is 30 also. What's the difference? 720P has the whole picture & 1080I shows twice as much picture every other frame. .

I agree that the 1080i vs 1080p resolution thing is marketing hype. 1080 lines is 1080 lines weather interlaced or progressive, the same number of dots are provided to the display, the same number of lines are displayed in the same PQ.

PQ now is more to do with display refresh rates for DVD and movie programs. DVDs are recorded at 24 fps. same as what you get in the movie theater. But displays refresh at 30 or 60 fps, an odd multiple requiring some math and 3/2 conversions somewhere in the chain, all of which degrade the PQ a bit.

Anyway when displays become more readily available that take have 24, 48, or 72 fps refresh rates and are capable of 1080 native resolution and DVD players (and receivers receiving movie channels) output 24 fps directly from the disk at 1080 without processing, PQ may be better as its disk to screen without manipulation or compromise ("no loss").

Remember there is no visible difference between 1080i or 1080p unless the display is deffective.

I agree that the 1080i vs 1080p resolution thing is marketing hype. 1080 lines is 1080 lines weather interlaced or progressive, the same number of dots are provided to the display, the same number of lines are displayed in the same PQ.

You may think the 1080p marketing campaign is hype, but it is smart, it works, and is true.

With 1080i/p, the same number of lines may be presented, but its how they are presented that matters. Every other line compared to all in one pass.

Also, if you don't have a 1080 capable display, you aren't getting a 1:1 pixel match. As you know, most LCD/Plasma/LCos/DLP sets are 720p displays. So, a 1920x1080 input is downresed and output at 1280x720. But, a 1080p display both receives and displays a 1920x1080 input as a 1920x1080 picture, thus a 1:1 match.

You may think the 1080p marketing campaign is hype, but it is smart, it works, and is true.
With 1080i/p, the same number of lines may be presented, but its how they are presented that matters. Every other line compared to all in one pass.
Also, if you don't have a 1080 capable display, you aren't getting a 1:1 pixel match. As you know, most LCD/Plasma/LCos/DLP sets are 720p displays. So, a 1920x1080 input is downresed and output at 1280x720. But, a 1080p display both receives and displays a 1920x1080 input as a 1920x1080 picture, thus a 1:1 match.
I have a flat screen 1080P, and yes the "interlaced verses progressive" can make a difference, but most "P" displays take the "I" and convert it to "P".
I think "the real test" would be comparing a blue-ray disk [1080P native] to the same program in 1080I. Interlaced has worked well with TVs for 50+ years. The more "dots", the sharper the picture. I'm not sure most humans can tell the refresh time difference between interlaced & progressive. Now of course there will alway be that "super video gamer" that "needs" ever frame, as fast as they can, to be a "hero", but for most of us mere mortals, 1080I HD beats DVDs, SD programing, and is sharper than 720P HD.

You may think the 1080p marketing campaign is hype, but it is smart, it works, and is true.

Also, if you don't have a 1080 capable display, you aren't getting a 1:1 pixel match.

Let me paraphrase some of what I've read in the HD forums.

What many individuals fail to understand is that it makes absolutely no difference which transmission format you use—feeding 1080i or 1080p into your projector or HDTV will give you the exact same picture. Why? Film and HD material are recorded in progressive scan 1080p at 24 frames per second. It does not matter whether you output this data in 1080i or 1080p since all 1080 lines of information are fed into your video display either way. The only difference is the order in which they are transmitted. If they are fed in progressive order (1080p), the video display will process them in that order. If they are fed in interlaced format (1080i), the video display simply reassembles them into their original progressive scan order. Either way all 1080 lines per frame that are on the disc make it into the projector or TV. The fact is, if you happen to have a player and a video display that takes both 1080i and 1080p, you can switch the player back and forth between 1080i and 1080p output and see absolutely no difference in the picture. So this notion that 1080p is worth more money than 1080i output is nonsense and marketing hype to me.

Don't confuse this with video material which is natively interlaced where consecutive fields are offset in time, or material recorded in 1080i, where in effect you get 520 lines of resolution. This is where you need sophisticated algorithms to interpolate each frame and where you get artifacts.

As DanMacMAn alluded to, it is really about 1:1 pixel mapping, frame/refresh rate and SCREEN SIZE. To see 1080 lines you need a 1080 capable display. 1080i vs 1080p has no effect, but 24 vs 60 fps can be better. Many displays accept 1080 but scale video down to its native resolution, perhaps 720 or so lines.

The advantage to 1080p/24 transmission is that it can eliminate artifacts associated with the 2:3 pulldown conversion that is common in the NTSC 60 Hz world. The vast majority of consumers are not bothered by, or even conscious of the artifacts that it is intended to eliminate, however. For the most part, 2:3 pulldown conversion is invisible to the viewer except in certain types of scenes, and even then they would not be noticed at a normal viewing distance on most 40" to 50" televisions.

Nevertheless, for videophiles using larger screen systems, 1080p/24 transmission and processing will eliminate 2:3 pulldown artifacts that they can certainly be aware of and bothered by.

If you look at the fine print of devices that advertise an output 1080p, you may find that the progressive scan source is first converted to 1080i/60 and then to 1080p/60 for transmission, where devices that only out put 1080i don't bother with the last step as all displays handle the coversion without loss.

Well, I went out and got an H20-600 primarily to try the OTA tuner. I've had my doubts about its providing an improvement at long distance as it is primarily designed to combat multipath which typically is at the expense of sensitivity to weak signals. However, others on this thread seemed to report high sensitivity so I thought I'd give it a try.

My overall impression, unfortunately, is as I suspected. The H20-600 seems to be slightly less sensitive overall compared to the 4th gen. and particularly the 3rd gen. LG (lst-3510a). I'll continue to use the HTL-HD (4th gen) as I enjoy the analog tuner and the ability to manually add OTA channels.

I'm sure the 5th gen. is great in multipath-prone areas as advertised.

Well, I went out and got an H20-600 primarily to try the OTA tuner. I've had my doubts about its providing an improvement at long distance as it is primarily designed to combat multipath which typically is at the expense of sensitivity to weak signals. However, others on this thread seemed to report high sensitivity so I thought I'd give it a try.
My overall impression, unfortunately, is as I suspected. The H20-600 seems to be slightly less sensitive overall compared to the 4th gen. and particularly the 3rd gen. LG (lst-3510a). I'll continue to use the HTL-HD (4th gen) as I enjoy the analog tuner and the ability to manually add OTA channels.
I'm sure the 5th gen. is great in multipath-prone areas as advertised.
The H20-600 still knocks the crap out of the H20-100 for receiving weak signals.

The H20-600 still knocks the crap out of the H20-100 for receiving weak signals.

The 100 I have in the livingroom pulls better than my 600 did but the 100 in the bedroom breaks up while the livingroom 100 holds rock solid so it seems to vary even between the same model

Group:

I'm getting ready to get an HDTV and get this receiver. I've an SD directv customer for about five years.

When I was last paying attention (maybe a year ago), the H20 receiver that everyone was using was made by LG. It generated a lot of heat, I remember.

Who makes the H20 that everyone's getting now? I don't need a DVR.

Are there any significant changes/improvements in the H20 of today over the H20 of one year ago?

Thanks in advance.

rlowell

The -600 is made by LG; the -100 is made by RCA. They each have different issues. Both are still being produced and it's the luck of the draw as to which one you get.

The 100 I have in the livingroom pulls better than my 600 did but the 100 in the bedroom breaks up while the livingroom 100 holds rock solid so it seems to vary even between the same model
I suspect your results may be from the signal power being different do to cabling, more than variations from a manufacture.
I did my testing [only one sample of each] with the same cable split to each receiver, and at the same location [TV]. Tests showed [with weak signals] the -100 picture would freeze as the signal dropped, while the -600 would still have a watchable picture. As the signal continued to drop, the -600 would start to pixelate and finally drop out, but this was at a much lower power level and the-100 still showed the last image it received [some 15 min earlier].
I do this testing with every HD tuner I get, and so far I've tested: H20-100, H20-600, HR20-700, DIVCO Gold 5 [LG], and my Sony KDL-46XBR2.
So far:
1) The Sony seems the best,
2) the [LG] DIVCO & H20-600 are [the same] next,
3) then comes the H20-100,
4) and the HR20-700 is at the bottom [worst].
While these weren't tested in a lab, I've tried to eliminate variables to get true results.

I suspect your results may be from the signal power being different do to cabling, more than variations from a manufacture.
I did my testing [only one sample of each] with the same cable split to each receiver, and at the same location [TV]. Tests showed [with weak signals] the -100 picture would freeze as the signal dropped, while the -600 would still have a watchable picture. As the signal continued to drop, the -600 would start to pixelate and finally drop out, but this was at a much lower power level and the-100 still showed the last image it received [some 15 min earlier].
I do this testing with every HD tuner I get, and so far I've tested: H20-100, H20-600, HR20-700, DIVCO Gold 5 [LG], and my Sony KDL-46XBR2.
So far:
1) The Sony seems the best,
2) the [LG] DIVCO & H20-600 are [the same] next,
3) then comes the H20-100,
4) and the HR20-700 is at the bottom [worst].
While these weren't tested in a lab, I've tried to eliminate variables to get true results.

Hopefully they will both improve when I finish remodeling and get the roof done as it should cut about 25' off the coax run from the antenna.

rdn:

Thanks for the update.

Does the "downrezzing" feature on the component outputs for selected shows not happen if you get the H20-100?

If I recall correctly, the LG unit also had a more sensitive and solid ATSC receiver. Am I correct on that?

There must be a way to get around "luck of the draw", isn't there?

rlowell

Does the "downrezzing" feature on the component outputs for selected shows not happen if you get the H20-100?
If I recall correctly, the LG unit also had a more sensitive and solid ATSC receiver. Am I correct on that?
There must be a way to get around "luck of the draw", isn't there?
rlowell
Component outputs work the same with both units.
Each unit [-100, -600] have their "pros". The -600 runs warmer [can't be enclosed in an entertainment center], & will pick up weaker signals. The -100 seems to have a better working guide & can be enclosed [as it doesn't have as much heat]. If you have strong signals, you won't need the sensitivity of the -600.
The only way I've heard to "pick" which unit is to buy it at a big box store [BB, CC, etc] and have D* credit you. Otherwise, it's just "what's one the truck".

Hopefully they will both improve when I finish remodeling and get the roof done as it should cut about 25' off the coax run from the antenna.
If you're splitting the signal to several locations, you may want [need] to get an amp for it. The best would be a preamp at the antenna, next would be a distribution amp at [before] the splitter. This will overcome your cable & splitter loss. You would want to split the signals [cables] evenly [i.e. a 4-way splitter] and not split it once and then add another splitter down stream on one leg. If you don't balance the splitting you could have 50% on one leg, & 25% [or less] on the other legs.

veryoldschool:

Thanks for the replies. I was hoping to get around this DRM problem. Oh well.

I don't split my satellite feeds today with the SD stuff. So I don't anticipate having to split them when I upgrade to HD.

Are the channel change/menu lags the same between -100 and -600?

rlowell

veryoldschool:

Thanks for the replies. I was hoping to get around this DRM problem. Oh well.

I don't split my satellite feeds today with the SD stuff. So I don't anticipate having to split them when I upgrade to HD.

Are the channel change/menu lags the same between -100 and -600?

rlowell


The splitting was directed at me and a feed from the antenna not the Sat.. I have never had anything down res. on my H20 and the one in the bedroom is only on component as it won't play well with my LCD in there on HDMI. Any lag is about the same between either one.

apexmi:

Thanks.

So you've got a tv connected to the H20 with 1080i via component. And you've never seen anything get down-rezzed. Right?

Did you say this was on an LCD tv that didn't interface well with the H20 over HDMI?

I wonder how many customers Directv would alienate if they started forcing downrevving on the component interface of HD content shows.

rlowell

rdn:

There must be a way to get around "luck of the draw", isn't there?

rlowell

You could select a unit from a local store or internet retailer. Then have DIRECTV do the install. That's what I did for my last upgrade.

Coldcase:

Thanks. This is exactly how I plan to do this.

rlowell

apexmi:

Thanks.

So you've got a tv connected to the H20 with 1080i via component. And you've never seen anything get down-rezzed. Right?

Did you say this was on an LCD tv that didn't interface well with the H20 over HDMI?

I wonder how many customers Directv would alienate if they started forcing downrevving on the component interface of HD content shows.

rlowell


Correct, The HDMI / LCD seems to be very common

I found the 100 and 600 H20 runs cooler if you raise it up about an inch high.

I found the 100 and 600 H20 runs cooler if you raise it up about an inch high.


The 100's now come with feet that are about 3/4" high

RUMOR - there will be a new firmware update in January....

You won't have to guess that it's there either...you'll notice it right away....can you say GUI....

Hello. I have an H20 box that I rebooted for the first time while trying to diagnose an OTA reception problem and when it came back up my local channels were missing from the guide. I'm referring to the standard def locals, not the OTA variety. I see the OTA channels but cannot see nor tune to the SDs now (e.g., I used to get 6 -> 6.1 -> 6.2 but now 6 is gone). I'm certain it's something that occurred in the reboot but I've rebooted my HR20 several times without this happening. Any ideas? I searched this topic and couldn't find anything similar so my apologies if this has been addressed already. Thanks.

Hello. I have an H20 box that I rebooted for the first time while trying to diagnose an OTA reception problem and when it came back up my local channels were missing from the guide. I'm referring to the standard def locals, not the OTA variety. I see the OTA channels but cannot see nor tune to the SDs now (e.g., I used to get 6 -> 6.1 -> 6.2 but now 6 is gone). I'm certain it's something that occurred in the reboot but I've rebooted my HR20 several times without this happening. Any ideas? I searched this topic and couldn't find anything similar so my apologies if this has been addressed already. Thanks.
There are a couple of things to look at.
1) go into the menu & favorites. Make sure if you go into "all channels" you don't see your missing channels. If you are using a "custom" channel list, they may have been deleted.
2) If the "all channels" doesn't show your missing channels, then I would call D* and have them send a "reset" from their end. I had a Sony receiver that every time I did a reset from the maintenance menu, I needed them to do this to get my local channels.
Hope this get you going [again].

There are a couple of things to look at.
1) go into the menu & favorites. Make sure if you go into "all channels" you don't see your missing channels. If you are using a "custom" channel list, they may have been deleted.
2) If the "all channels" doesn't show your missing channels, then I would call D* and have them send a "reset" from their end. I had a Sony receiver that every time I did a reset from the maintenance menu, I needed them to do this to get my local channels.
Hope this get you going [again].
Yep, they're completely gone so it looks like I'll be giving them a call.
Thanks for your help!

RUMOR - there will be a new firmware update in January....

You won't have to guess that it's there either...you'll notice it right away....can you say GUI....

Those with R15s and the latest software (which requires a forced 0-2-4-6-8 upgrade) can gat a preview by selecting the active feature.

Customers can resend programming authorization to their receivers from https://www.directv.com/DTVAPP/mydirectv/mysystem/mySystemResendAuthorization.jsp now.

Is it absolutely necessary to have a 5 LNB dish to receive my local channels in HD? I currently have a 3 prong dish on my roof and the H20 receiver. Is there an alternative to getting a whole new dish? Like an indoor antenna or something similar. Happy New Year!

First time user to this forum.
I've had a D* H20 reciever for about 9 months now. Been using it for sat reception (non-HD) only until a couple of days ago. Hooked up an antenna for OTA HD reception. Using a cheapie indoor unit for testing, until I get the bugs worked out. Results are overall very good. 90+% signal strength for the major networks. Good picture clarity, resolution formats changing as expected, etc.

THE PROBLEM IS, seemingly on a random basis, the receiver locks up during OTA reception. I have to cycle power or hit the RESET button to get it to behave. NEVER happens during D* reception.

I'm using a dedicated circut for my AV eqpt., and running thru a surge supressor, so I don't think power quality is an issue. I put a cooling fan on top of the unit, but didn't notice any changes.

Is this an insidious feature installed by D* Marketing to get me to go to their HD signal, a faulty receiver, or...?

Comments and/or references to past posts please.

E.

First time user to this forum.
I've had a D* H20 reciever for about 9 months now. ..................

THE PROBLEM IS, seemingly on a random basis, the receiver locks up during OTA reception. I have to cycle power or hit the RESET button to get it to behave. NEVER happens during D* reception.



Got plenty of space around your H20? Is it in a cabinet or confined space? If they start to run hot, they are known to lockup occassionally.

Is it absolutely necessary to have a 5 LNB dish to receive my local channels in HD? I currently have a 3 prong dish on my roof and the H20 receiver. Is there an alternative to getting a whole new dish? Like an indoor antenna or something similar. Happy New Year!

To receive your local channels in HD via D*'s satellites, you need the new 5-lnb dish and the H20 or HR20. Depending on your location, terrain, type of antenna, you may also be able to receive your locals in HD via OTA.

For anyone trying to control their Directv H20 box via an external IR emitter, here is a good tech document:

http://www.russound.com/doccenter/rtretvertDonotremove//Homeowner/RNET%20Systems/Tech%20Tips/ir_control_of_hughes_h20.pdf

Guess the H20 box has a very sensitive IR sensor.

Has anyone else had problems with their H20 freezing or locking up when using the DVR feature (pausing or trying to rewind live content)?

I've had mine do this several times and the only solution is to press the red reset button which makes the unit reboot which takes about 10 minutes.

I've also had it not let me access recorded material before even though the hard drive was only 1/3 full.

I never have this problem on my older MPEG 2 unit.

I wonder if this is common or if I have a lemon :confused:

Has there been a firmware update released or is one planned?

Thanks for any assistance!

WRONG THREAD "Starrsmill Tiger".

This thread is for the standard H20 (HDTV) receiver, not the DVR.

I want the h20 to output a completely native signal with no modifications.

Is there any way to completely defeat the 'screen format' option? I want to use Sony's wide-zoom formatting on 4:3 but it won't work correctly with the h20 inserting its stupid pillar bars.

.

I want the h20 to output a completely native signal with no modifications.
Is there any way to completely defeat the 'screen format' option? I want to use Sony's wide-zoom formatting on 4:3 but it won't work correctly with the h20 inserting its stupid pillar bars.
My Sony XBR2 doesn't "play well" together with the H20. To get the correct size for SD programs, I need to have my Sony in wide & then use the H20 for zoom/crop. I think the "stupid pillar bars" are as "normal" as you can get for 4:3.
Now if you want to get carried away, you could change your type of TV [in settings] to 4:3 and this would "give you" the option of letterbox for your 16:9 programs. I don't know what your Sony would do with these, but that's about it [that I can think of]. As I said they don't play well together, so my options are limited for a good [correct] size.

Has anyone been able to use the TV Guide feature of the Panasonic DMR-EH75VS with the H20 receiver? I spent several hours yesterday trying to get the IR-blaster supplied with the Panasonic to change the channels on the H20 without success. Panasonic rep said the unit can't talk to the H20 but gave no reason why. DIRECTV rep said he thought it wan't possible for an IR-Blaster to communicate with the H20. None of their reasons sounded "good", so I thought I'd ask here. The H20 setup has the remote set for IR (not RF) but beyond that I haven't a clue.

Thanks,
Al Spalmacin

Has anyone been able to use the TV Guide feature of the Panasonic DMR-EH75VS with the H20 receiver? I spent several hours yesterday trying to get the IR-blaster supplied with the Panasonic to change the channels on the H20 without success. Panasonic rep said the unit can't talk to the H20 but gave no reason why. DIRECTV rep said he thought it wan't possible for an IR-Blaster to communicate with the H20. None of their reasons sounded "good", so I thought I'd ask here. The H20 setup has the remote set for IR (not RF) but beyond that I haven't a clue.
Thanks,
Al Spalmacin
I've been known not to have a clue, so I'll just jump right in here.
I've had my Media Center PC's "IR blaster" connected to my H20. I can use the Microsoft remote and have the H20 change channels for recording/live TV. With this said, nobody knows the codes of [for] the H20, so that may be the problem you are having. [My Microsoft had to learn them.]

nobody knows the codes of [for] the H20,. [My Microsoft had to learn them.]

Just a note that my Harmony remote knows the H20 codes, or at least a good chunk of them. I believe, if the H20 has the latest firmware, the codes are the same as the H10.

There was a previous post by R_Willis about H20 IR sensitivity that I assume was noticed.

You can also possibly control the H20 via serial commands (via the USB input), but I haven't confirmed this works.


"The H20 can be controlled via serial through the USB port using a DB9 to usb adapter."

PUSH Standby
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\x81";
}

Push Power_On
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\x82";
}

Push Digit_0
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xE0";
}

Push Digit_1
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xE1";
}

Push Digit_2
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xE2";
}

Push Digit_3
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xE3";
}

Push Digit_4
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xE4";
}

Push Digit_5
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xE5";
}

Push Digit_6
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xE6";
}

Push Digit_7
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xE7";
}

Push Digit_8
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xE8";
}

Push Digit_9
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xE9";
}

Push Enter
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xA0";
}

Push Info
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xA1";
}

Push Active
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xA2";
}

Push List
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xA3";
}

Push Back
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xA4";
}

Push Hyphen
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xA5";
}

Push Replay
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xB6";
}

Push Select
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xC3";
}

Push Right_Arrow
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\x9A";
}

Push Left_Arrow
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\x9B";
}

Push Up_Arrow
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\x9C";
}

Push Down_Arrow
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\x9D";
}

Push Chan_Plus
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xD1";
}

Push Chan_Minus
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xD2";
}

Push Guide
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xD3";
}

Push Pause
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xB0";
}

Push Rewind
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xB1";
}

Push Play
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xB2";
}

Push Stop
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xB3";
}

Push FFWD
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xB4";
}

Push Record
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xB5";
}

Push Advance
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xB7";
}

Push Red
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xEA";
}

Push Yellow
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xEB";
}

Push Green
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xEC";
}

Push Blue
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xED";
}

Push Menu
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xF7";
}

Push Exit
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xD4";
}

Push Previous_Chan
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xD6";
}

Push Format
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\xA5\x00\x01\xF8";
}

Push Get_Current_Channel
{
H20_TX$ = "\xFA\x83";
}
/*

I've been known not to have a clue, so I'll just jump right in here.
I've had my Media Center PC's "IR blaster" connected to my H20. I can use the Microsoft remote and have the H20 change channels for recording/live TV. With this said, nobody knows the codes of [for] the H20, so that may be the problem you are having. [My Microsoft had to learn them.]

Thanks. At least now I know it's possible to drive the H20 with other than the DirecTV remote. No response from Panasonic to an email I sent them, asking if a firmware update was possible. Doesn't seem like a good marketing ploy to advertise a feature ("TV Guide" scheduled recording) that doesn't work with a mainstream high-definition box like the H20.

Is anyone experiencing a picture quality difference when using component cables instead of HDMI? What looks cleaner? Is it a better user experience changing around without the "handshake"?

hello to all

I would like to ask ask about the H20 model 600 and the Sony KDL-40XBR2.. what is the best why to hook these to items together and the best setting for the H20 unit..right now i have it hooked up with the HDMI cable and on 1080i setting. but is there way to set that unit so it lets the tv do the picture processing and not the H20 unit? are is there really any settings that can be changes to let everything work better together?

thank you for your help and input on this matter.. :)

hello to all
t is there way to set that unit so it lets the tv do the picture processing and not the H20 unit?)

I could be wrong, but isn't there a "native" setting on the h20 in its settings.

In my case, with a plasma display, I found just setting the H20 to 1080 worked the best. I couldn't tell the difference between the H20 component and HDMI.

Has anyone been able to use the TV Guide feature of the Panasonic DMR-EH75VS with the H20 receiver? I spent several hours yesterday trying to get the IR-blaster supplied with the Panasonic to change the channels on the H20 without success. Panasonic rep said the unit can't talk to the H20 but gave no reason why. DIRECTV rep said he thought it wan't possible for an IR-Blaster to communicate with the H20. None of their reasons sounded "good", so I thought I'd ask here. The H20 setup has the remote set for IR (not RF) but beyond that I haven't a clue.

Thanks,
Al Spalmacin
I have tried for months to get my Panny DMR-EH55 to work with TVGOS and the H20. At first it would not even switch the channels on the box with the IR Balster. Found out the H20's IR receiver was too sensitive so relocated the IR Blaster to the other side of the H20 and got it to switch the cannels. After trying different connections and way too many long scans, I have decided that the H20 filters out the TVGOS info, it would not find a channel that had the guide info. Calls to D*, PANNY and TV Guide were no help, so I gave up :(
Snuffy

Is anyone experiencing a picture quality difference when using component cables instead of HDMI? What looks cleaner? Is it a better user experience changing around without the "handshake"?
See my reply [to you] on the other forum.

hello to all I would like to ask ask about the H20 model 600 and the Sony KDL-40XBR2.. what is the best why to hook these to items together and the best setting for the H20 unit..right now i have it hooked up with the HDMI cable and on 1080i setting. but is there way to set that unit so it lets the tv do the picture processing and not the H20 unit? are is there really any settings that can be changes to let everything work better together?
thank you for your help and input on this matter.. :)
I have the same thing in a 46". I use HDMI, have the Sony set to "full" and the H20-600 set to native off, & 1080I. The H-20 needs to convert that SAT signal to something, so I have it to the scaling straight to 1080I & then the TV change it to "P". This works the best for me and has the fewest [least] conversions to the signal. The Sony is a great TV, but with D* as the signal provider, the best combo it to have the H20 do it, as there really isn't a way to have the Sony "do all of the work", since the SAT signal has to be converted to something just to get it out of the box.

I just bought the H20 today at bestbuy. I am only intending to use it as a tuner to pick up OTA Channels. Do i need to insert the access card into the receiver or will it work right out of the box?

thangalang --

The H20 will NOT function as an OTA tuner unless (1) it is attached to a satellite antenna that can acquire the D* 101 satellite; (2) has an access card installed and (3) has had the access card activated by D* (by being a subscriber of some D* programming). In short, it won't work as a OTA tuner only.

I just bought the H20 today at bestbuy. I am only intending to use it as a tuner to pick up OTA Channels. Do i need to insert the access card into the receiver or will it work right out of the box?
Insert card, call D*, activate the unit, or it won't "do anything".
This doesn't have a "stand alone" OTA feature. It only works with an active subscription to D*. If this is what you bought it for, go back to BB and return it before you activate it.

I have the same thing in a 46". I use HDMI, have the Sony set to "full" and the H20-600 set to native off, & 1080I. The H-20 needs to convert that SAT signal to something, so I have it to the scaling straight to 1080I & then the TV change it to "P". This works the best for me and has the fewest [least] conversions to the signal. The Sony is a great TV, but with D* as the signal provider, the best combo it to have the H20 do it, as there really isn't a way to have the Sony "do all of the work", since the SAT signal has to be converted to something just to get it out of the box.
Sorry to disagree, The H20 does not have to convert anything if it is set to “Native”. The satellite video streams are just what they are, 480i, 720p, or 1080i. The box only has to descramble them and output their original format. I find my Sony does a remarkable job of scaling the various formats including OTA, IMHO I think much better than the H20.
The interlaced video from D* can not ever be Progressive, just reformatted as a progressive scan of 2 Interlaced Fields, it's not the same thing.
Snuffy

Sorry to disagree, The H20 does not have to convert anything if it is set to “Native”. The satellite video streams are just what they are, 480i, 720p, or 1080i. The box only has to descramble them and output their original format. I find my Sony does a remarkable job of scaling the various formats including OTA, IMHO I think much better than the H20.
The interlaced video from D* can not ever be Progressive, just reformatted as a progressive scan of 2 Interlaced Fields, it's not the same thing.
Snuffy
You have every right to disagree. There is just a little more that the H20 does than "decode" since there is the MPEG2/4 "thing". What counts is what you like. This topic is more like who's going to win the Super bowl, then a technical debate.
The marketing [sales] people do a great job of "pushing" something that nobody can see [IMO].
If you can see the difference then that's what you should have [do]. Will it be the same for someone else? Nobody can say with out looking.

VOS, like you I use HDMI on my 1080P 40XBR2 and almost always stick with 1080i because full pixel display only functions at that resolution. I will occasionally switch over to 720P, perhaps to see if it improves the video on a sports event that is transmitted at that resolution, but usually there is no discernible difference so I wind up back at 1080i because I simply don't care to lose about 2.5% of the picture to overscan at each horizontal edge.

You have every right to disagree. There is just a little more that the H20 does than "decode" since there is the MPEG2/4 "thing". What counts is what you like. This topic is more like who's going to win the Super bowl, then a technical debate.
The marketing [sales] people do a great job of "pushing" something that nobody can see [IMO].
If you can see the difference then that's what you should have [do]. Will it be the same for someone else? Nobody can say with out looking.
I guess I’m not sure what the MPEG2/4 "thing" is. Sadly, where I live D* has not offered MPEG4 locals as yet. I get my locals OTA. I could be wrong but I think the H20 will just decode/descramble the MP4 stream and then output it in its original format if the box is set to “Native”. I hope someone here might comment on a comparison between the H20 output and OTA for local HD.

If you force the output of the H20 to 1080i, then 1080i sources it will go out in that format. If the source happens to be 720p however, the H20 will have to up-scale and interlace it to 1080i. In either case the 1080p TV will still have to de-interlace it for display. Actually that applies to all TVs except CRTs. I guess the question is, whether the H20 or the 1080p set does it better. That begins the Super Bowl debate, as you said.

PQ will always be somewhat subjective. My point was that, 1080i from D* will always be “technically” an interlaced stream regardless of what the de-interlacer in your TV does to it. Some de-interlacers do a really good job and others are rather poor. The DCDi chip-set by Faroudja is widely considered the best. None however, are quite as good as real 1080p IMO. BD or HD DVD “film based” materials on 1080p sets are really spectacular :)

I guess I’m not sure what the MPEG2/4 "thing" is. :)
Talk about a screwed up signal. If the analog days were still here, your just a "descramber" would be correct [to me]. These days what ever the signals starts as, gets converted by D* to go up to the SAT. On your end the dish first downconverts the frequency to your receiver. Then the receiver converts [uncompresses] the signal to a video signal [digital or analog]. This is the MPEG2/4 "thing".
The best PQ comes from OTA signals [as they don't go through the D* chain]. Every conversion has some form of distortion [loss], so the fewer the better.
This is an opinion only. I have never known everything, nor ever will. YMMV.

I have the HR10 now along with a 3NLB dish. Does the HR20 require a 5NLB dish?

A 5LNB dish is required to get dish based HD locals where available but the HR10 can't get those anyway. The 5LNB dish will be required along with an HR20 or H20 when all HD moves to MPEG4 Ka band carriage after the two new satellites go up. The HR10 will be limited to SD via satellite and OTA HD after that.

I have the HR10 now along with a 3NLB dish. Does the HR20 require a 5NLB dish?
As I understand it the H20 does not require the 5 LNB KA/KU dish, it will work with the 3 LNB Okay. However, to get your local HD channels in MPEG4 you'd need the 5er, maybe some Latin channels as well. MY KA/KU dish was "free" with a D* upgrade to their HD package. The H20 was a $100 one time lease payment all including installation. HD Package is $10/month.
Snuffy

When are the new satellites scheduled to go up?

Is that why only 2 of the 4 locals here in Portland are availabe in HD from Direct? Not enough bandwidth?

When are the new satellites scheduled to go up?

Is that why only 2 of the 4 locals here in Portland are availabe in HD from Direct? Not enough bandwidth?

Most likely it's due to the station owners wanting D* to pay them money to retransmit the HD signals. A few corporate owners, LIN is one of them, feel that they should be able to make money off of DBS and cable companies to carry their over the air signal.

When are the new satellites scheduled to go up?

Is that why only 2 of the 4 locals here in Portland are availabe in HD from Direct? Not enough bandwidth?

I understand from the Seattle OTA forum that Fisher has reached an agreement with Directv for the Seattle ABC station. Since they also own the Portland ABC station, this may apply there also. As to when it will actually be carried, I don't have a clue (bandwidth should not be an issue).

The latest info on Directv 10 and 11 appears to be April and third-quarter (all subject to change, of course).

Sorry to disagree, The H20 does not have to convert anything if it is set to “Native”. The satellite video streams are just what they are, 480i, 720p, or 1080i. The box only has to descramble them and output their original format. I find my Sony does a remarkable job of scaling the various formats including OTA, IMHO I think much better than the H20.
The interlaced video from D* can not ever be Progressive, just reformatted as a progressive scan of 2 Interlaced Fields, it's not the same thing.
Snuffy

so should we set the Native off or should it be on with a Sony XBR2 set? please give info on this...thank you :)

so should we set the Native off or should it be on with a Sony XBR2 set? please give info on this...thank you :)
This is a can of worms that is being debated [forever]. I have an XBR2. Looks great with native off, BUT!!! you need to use your own eyes. With native off the H-20 does the work. With native on your TV does it. Try each for a while and see which looks better to you. You are the one that will be watching it and therefore the best judge. Which ever way you decide, you will have someone agree & disagree. To date there is no "right answer" except what looks good to you.

I hate to add to this can of worms but:

My DIRECT TV system was upgraded to HD yesterday. The install of the dish and equipment went fine. Now I am presented with many choices.

The H20 setup menu contains Display and resolution options.

Can anyone tell me what NATIVE means and what happens when it is on or off.

Also the receiver was delivered with all resolutions selected. On 50 inch Pioneer PDP5071 it seems to cycle through all of the resolutions and screen options it has when you change channels. This causes several cycles of blank and fuzzy screens before the content of the next channel is displayed. we are talking 15 or more seconds for this to complete.

Last night I removed all of the resolutions except 1080I which is the max my TV can display and and this seems to have solved the problem but am I missing something else by doing this?

Can anyone tell me what NATIVE means and what happens when it is on or off.

Native on tells the box to pass alone the same resolution for the channel as it receives. A 720p signal like ESPN goes out as 720p, 480i like CNN goes out as 480i, this lets your monitor do whatever up/downconversion it needs to do.

When you have it set to off the H20 will up/down convert the signal as necessary to match what you've told it to output, either 480i/480p/720p/1080i.

When the resolution keeps changing, like when native is on, then the monitor needs to resync to the new resolution everytime it changes which takes time.

Rad and all

So if I set it to native and don't specify all the resolutions in the H20 box but just say 1080 the box will send 1080 and let the TV figure out what to do with what it gets , or should I have no resolutions speicifed because if it is native, the resolutions don't matter and don't need to be set.

Rad and all
So if I set it to native and don't specify all the resolutions in the H20 box but just say 1080 the box will send 1080 and let the TV figure out what to do with what it gets , or should I have no resolutions specified because if it is native, the resolutions don't matter and don't need to be set.
I hope I'm not going to "step in something" here.
If you have "only" say 1080i set on the H20, then native on/off won't matter, as the box will only send 1080i.
If you have 480, 720P, & 1080i set on the H20, with native on the box will send what ever the signal comes in to the TV. If you turn native off, the box would "stay" at what ever resolution you last set [remote].
So [with the 3 above] you could press the remote and watch a program in 480, 720, or 1080.
This all comes down to what you like. I use 1080 [only] because I like it. You might want 720 & 1080 because you watch more ESPN than I and it looks better.
You might think your TV does a better job making SD channels look better [then add 480].
Or you might like your TV to do all of this and then set the H20 to native and the three resolutions. Channel surfing will have a lag as everything gets in sync.
I hope this will be of some help.

I recently got H20 installed on fri. I am very impressed with D* HD it blows away previous Cox HD I had. I think everyone just likes to bitch or they don't know what they are doing. I set mine to native seems to work best and makes sense. My picture looks amazing. I had a sony hd set with a hdmi cable from monoprice, and I calabrated my set to afi standards.

adgreer - I agree. People love to debate "HD-Lite" endlessly, but I have compared OTA HD side by side to DirecTV MPEG4 HD, and see a little difference, but not enough to complain about. Of course, this being a gear forum, we're going to be in the minority up here on this. Of course, DirecTV SD signals, especially some of the more obscure channels, can be ugly as sin, particuarly when blown up on a big screen.

When I got my H20 4 months back, I noticed it ran kind of hot. I placed 4 black checkers (I guess you could use red :rolleyes: ) under the 4 corners and it cooled down considerably. I think the H20 is a very good HD STB! Its OTA function works with just a $7 RCA indoor antenna. I have only had one instance of rain-fade and no snow-fade even during the 2 recent blizzards here in Colorado. The delay in changing channels seemed (to me) to be shorter when using Component as opposed to HDMI connections. As a disclaimer, I hate HDMI anyway, but that’s another story for another thread.

Last night I took the time to compare an SD MPEG2 vs MPEG4 DirecTV signal through the H20 side by side for the same channel. I was not expecting to see much difference, but I was wrong. There was a very significant quality improvement. The MPEG4 signal was almost the same as the OTA signal on the same channel. This is good news for those who find DirecTV's standard SD channels to be very badly done.

Last night I took the time to compare an SD MPEG2 vs MPEG4 DirecTV signal through the H20 side by side for the same channel. I was not expecting to see much difference, but I was wrong. There was a very significant quality improvement. The MPEG4 signal was almost the same as the OTA signal on the same channel. This is good news for those who find DirecTV's standard SD channels to be very badly done.
Maybe I'm missing something. :confused:
MPEG-4 is HD so what type of comparison is it to SD?
D* has improve the MPEG-4 PQ [I use the HR20 as a reference].

Maybe I'm missing something. :confused:
MPEG-4 is HD so what type of comparison is it to SD?
D* has improve the MPEG-4 PQ [I use the HR20 as a reference].

What he said.

+1

I assume the MPEG4 datastream does not need to be HD, it is merely a datastream encoding, the source can be anything. In this example, I have 3 sources for my local channels - two from DirecTV, and one from OTA. My assumption is one of them is the MPEG2 data stream, and the other is the MPEG4 datastream. The third, of course, is from my antenna.

I assume the MPEG4 datastream does not need to be HD, it is merely a datastream encoding, the source can be anything. In this example, I have 3 sources for my local channels - two from DirecTV, and one from OTA. My assumption is one of them is the MPEG2 data stream, and the other is the MPEG4 datastream. The third, of course, is from my antenna.
D* locals are SD MPEG-2, HD MPEG-4, non D* OTA MPEG-2

Well, all I can tell you is I get SD on both DirecTV local channels, unless there is actual HD content, in which case one is in SD and the other in HD. The HD MPEG4 doesn't just go blank when the local is not broadcasting an HD stream, it shows the SD stream. What does that tell us ? It tells me that when the source is SD, the MPEG4 stream loosk better than the MPEG2 stream.

Well, all I can tell you is I get SD on both DirecTV local channels, unless there is actual HD content, in which case one is in SD and the other in HD. The HD MPEG4 doesn't just go blank when the local is not broadcasting an HD stream, it shows the SD stream. What does that tell us ? It tells me that when the source is SD, the MPEG4 stream loosk better than the MPEG2 stream.
When your local HD MPEG-4 channel is showing "non HD" programing, they're up-converting it to "HD". It's not HD, but the station isn't sending it out in 480 either. So even though you can compare daytime TV between two channels from D*, it isn't a true MPEG-2 verse MPEG-4 comparison, because of what the station does to one of the channels that it doesn't do to the other.
This is for information only, & not any attempt of a pissing contest.

I've followed the mpeg4 vs. mpeg2 to this point, but now the next step. Why does the mpeg2 ota look as good as mpeg4 D* on HD programing? VOS

I've followed the mpeg4 vs. mpeg2 to this point, but now the next step. Why does the mpeg2 ota look as good as mpeg4 D* on HD programing? VOS
OTA MPEG-2 comes straight to you.
D* receives local channels OTA also, then converts them & uplinks them to the SAT.
Local SD is OTA analog, HD is MPEG-2, both get converted to uplink.
Right now bandwidth is everything [dollars] so D* & cable companies save bandwidth [money] by over compressing the signal. They call it "bit starving", which reduces the PQ. MPEG-4 uses a "new & improved" algorithm which is smarter [they say] and can use more compression [less bandwidth] and have a good PQ. The dollar amount is so great that there are labs testing just how far they can squeeze the signal before it's "too much" and even then how many people will complain.
The more they squeeze, the more channels they can provide [poorly].
In the "old days" 5MHz was a channel bandwidth [analog], then MPEG-2 came and they could get 3-5 channels in the same space. Then HD comes along using the 5 MHZ [again], so they need to add 3-5 times the bandwidth to keep as many channels in HD. Airwaves aren't limited, so there you will see the best picture. Cable & SAT TV needs to "find" bandwidth.
MPEG-4 seem to be a way to get good PQ, but takes new hardware to receive [decode] the signal.
Make any sense?l

In regards to MPEG-4 here in Orlando: It used to be very quirky. On programs like Lettermen and Leno there was a blur or small jitter when they moved their hands, etc. Over the past month, the problem is no longer there. I think the picture looks pretty decent, but still a little softer that OTA.

OTA MPEG-2 comes straight to you.
D* receives local channels OTA also, then converts them & uplinks them to the SAT.
Local SD is OTA analog, HD is MPEG-2, both get converted to uplink.
Right now bandwidth is everything [dollars] so D* & cable companies save bandwidth [money] by over compressing the signal. They call it "bit starving", which reduces the PQ. MPEG-4 uses a "new & improved" algorithm which is smarter [they say] and can use more compression [less bandwidth] and have a good PQ. The dollar amount is so great that there are labs testing just how far they can squeeze the signal before it's "too much" and even then how many people will complain.
The more they squeeze, the more channels they can provide [poorly].
In the "old days" 5MHz was a channel bandwidth [analog], then MPEG-2 came and they could get 3-5 channels in the same space. Then HD comes along using the 5 MHZ [again], so they need to add 3-5 times the bandwidth to keep as many channels in HD. Airwaves aren't limited, so there you will see the best picture. Cable & SAT TV needs to "find" bandwidth.
MPEG-4 seem to be a way to get good PQ, but takes new hardware to receive [decode] the signal.
Make any sense?l

Good explanation bro.

Doug

adgreer - I agree. People love to debate "HD-Lite" endlessly, but I have compared OTA HD side by side to DirecTV MPEG4 HD, and see a little difference, but not enough to complain about. Of course, this being a gear forum, we're going to be in the minority up here on this. Of course, DirecTV SD signals, especially some of the more obscure channels, can be ugly as sin, particuarly when blown up on a big screen.

Compared to what I had 2 months ago with my regular TV.....my new HDTV and D* HD service is light years ahead.

Maybe it isnt the best on the market but I don't care....I am blown away by how much better it is then what I had for years before...

Thanks for the explanation, VOS. Take it down to the brass tacks, the locals from the MPEG4 stream beat the heck out of the locals on the MPEG2 stream. Perhaps that is what I should have simply said to start with.

Thanks for the explanation, VOS. Take it down to the brass tacks, the locals from the MPEG4 stream beat the heck out of the locals on the MPEG2 stream. Perhaps that is what I should have simply said to start with.
At first I wasn't a fan of MPEG-4. The PQ was poor. Several months ago D* made a big improvement with my local HD channels. I haven't bothered to "A-B" them to OTA as they look so good. HD MPEG-2 has been named "HD lite" by many, because of the "bit starving". I tired digital cable & found the 640 x 480 picture came at 520 x 480. The 1080i [1920 x 1080] from D* is reported to be 1440 x 1080 in MPEG-2.
So, I agree with you about the PQ of MPEG-4, and was only questioning your reference samples. I'm a very old tech, so they needed to be "apples to apples" for me.

Maybe it isnt the best on the market but I don't care....I am blown away by how much better it is then what I had for years before...
Yeah, HD is impressive. The bitching has been to keep it that way. If we don't speak up, we'll end up with something [much] less than the original idea.

1440, eh ? They were doing 1280, so that is some improvement.

This if off topic but is the H20 ever going to go interactive?

This if off topic but is the H20 ever going to go interactive?

D* says it's supposed to, last time I asked they said fall of 2006 it would be, but it ain't yet.

1440, eh ? They were doing 1280, so that is some improvement.
HD comes in two forms: 720P [1280 x 720] & 1080i [1920 x 1080]. Both take the same bandwidth [progressive verses interlaced, but that's not a fight I'll take on].

OTA MPEG-2 comes straight to you.
Make any sense?l

It clears up my lack of understanding. Thanks

Right, I was referring to the vertical line count, not the horizontal (1920, vs 1440, vs 1280 - all at 1080 horizontal). Those are the counts that send people off onto rants about "HD-lite".

Right, I was referring to the vertical line count, not the horizontal (1920, vs 1440, vs 1280 - all at 1080 horizontal). Those are the counts that send people off onto rants about "HD-lite".
Not to be "picky", but I think they call them pixels [over lines] as they are part of a horizontal line. But then again I've been told I don't have a clue, so .... :)

When I look at my PC's (and my LCDs), I think pixels. When I look at my tube TV's (as in my main rear projection unit), I think lines, in my mind a CRT doesn't technically have any pixels, it paints lines. Believe me, I know about pixels, computers and software are my business, and digital photography is a side-line of mine.

When I look at my PC's (and my LCDs), I think pixels. When I look at my tube TV's (as in my main rear projection unit), I think lines, in my mind a CRT doesn't technically have any pixels, it paints lines. Believe me, I know about pixels, computers and software are my business, and digital photography is a side-line of mine.
No question, you're correct.
I was just "hung" on the "vertical" part, as the lines do go "across" when scanning [CRT].
I don't get everything right, & don't need the last word.
I just "lost" my RPTV [CRTs] to burn-in & moved to FP LCD, so scan lines have gone [for me]. Your mileage will vary. :)

I'm in mid-stream - I have one traditionally constructed rear projection, two brand new LCD's, and 2 traditional CRT's in my house. No plasma. To my eye, I'll take glass over any of the technologies, HOWEVER, super large glass is not practical, and LCD's rule in tight spaces. I look forward to technology improving to where non-crt technology is finally superior to glass.

I'm in mid-stream - I have one traditionally constructed rear projection, two brand new LCD's, and 2 traditional CRT's in my house. No plasma. To my eye, I'll take glass over any of the technologies, HOWEVER, super large glass is not practical, and LCD's rule in tight spaces. I look forward to technology improving to where non-crt technology is finally superior to glass.
I thought we'd both "stepped into the same pile" a few times. I've been a CRT fan forever [30+ years]... until this burn-in. I got a Sony Bravia 46" XBR2. One word: WOW.

Very nice ! I am waiting out the next couple years before I replace my main TV (65" Mitsubishi rear projection). Something out there will be that picture size, in a smaller box format, with great update speed, but also affordable, by then.

I am waiting out the next couple years before I replace my main TV (65" Mitsubishi rear projection). Something out there will be that picture size, in a smaller box format, with great update speed, but also affordable, by then.
...and they'll be flying cars and people living on the moon too... :D

Just kidding. :cool:

The Mitz has a great picture - I happen to have the 40" Mitz tube (all 265 pounds of it) in a bedroom...but have now joined "today's world" with a Sony 50" diagonal 50E2000 3-chip LCD rear projection HDTV for the family room (only 9" deep and 64 lbs) - fantastic imagery. Our dedicated Home Theater has a DLP HDTV projector image onto a 106" 1.8 gain screen. That's really living large. :eek:

The good news is that your wait will not be long.

My guess is by this coming holiday season, you'll be able to get a 60-65" HDTV for under $3000 in the plasma (yuck) or LCD format, and under $1700 in the LCD rear projection (but much thinner & lighter than your current unit) format. You can get the 50" version HDTV today in a Sony or Samsung for under $1600 if you look hard enough.

That's great news. I look forward to the day I can get that monster box off the ground and onto a wall, or at least be able to store things under it, intead of on top. Naturally, I can do that now, but I am not willing to go down in size, nor spend 50 grand on a TV.

Excuse Me! Isn't this supposed to be an H20 thread? If you guys want to discuss whose got the biggest one, why not start or go to another thread :(
Snuffy

I do believe it is permissible to venture into a friendly side-bar conversation here and there, but thank you for pointing out the error of my ways.

...we now return you to our regularly schedule broadcast (topic).... :D

I do believe it is permissible to venture into a friendly side-bar conversation here and there, but thank you for pointing out the error of my ways.
this forum has been so busy, how dare you take up eveybody's time :) :rolleyes: :) :rolleyes: ;) :p :D :confused: :cool:

Yeah, HD is impressive. The bitching has been to keep it that way. If we don't speak up, we'll end up with something [much] less than the original idea.

I don't mind the complaining really...I would rather the people at D* know about our problems then people keeping it to themselves and no one knowing.

I have a LOT of complaints with D* in just two months of their service but I am also very happy.

I have a H20 receiver and I believe it is of the 100 variety. I also have it connected to the 5LNB dish. SO far all my HD channels look great, running over component, and I haven't really had any issues. But, recently I purchased an HDMI blade for my Panasonic TH-50PHD8UK PDP since I just got a PS3. The PS3 via HDMI looks stunning, but when I hook up my H20 via HDMI the colors look very saturated and the picture is very sharp, but in a bad way. The component feed looks more natural and little softer. Has anyone else had this problem? Ideally, I wanted to run everything via HDMI, but I can't stand the H20's picture on HDMI.

I have the -600, and ran a test on one of my LCDs. I saw no difference between component and HDMI. Realizing my "sample" was pretty small, I'd venture to say it is not a generic problem. Does your TV by chance have separate controls for HDMI input versus the others (sharp, contrast, bright, etc...) ?

Since I'm just getting aquainted with my HDMI blade, I'm not sure what suite of controls it offers. But the colors look great with the PS3 and look way off with the H20. I'm sure I can tweak them, but then I would have to change them back for the PS3 and I'm too low maintenance for that. Has anyone else seen this exact anomoly?

I had the 20R-700 installed last thursday after having had D*TV tiVo for the last 3 years. I must say that I'm dissappointed to say the least. Yes I had read all the talk on here and on DBSTALK about the ongoing problems/bugs, etc. but after having had my direct TIVO with very few issues I had my hopes up. The install went good ( I mean he was on time and was polite.) The picture on my Sony KP51WS510 is awesome on the D* HD channels. The first programs I set to record were victims of the "delete/save bug" which to say the least went over like flatuance in church. Then while watching the playoff games yesterday I was victim of the lock up "freeze" which reguired resetting the unit. (Twice)
Of course I wanted to see how local HD channels looked so I tried an indoor antenna which when signal strength is good the picture was good (no signal during the day but at night: WOW). But alas I need an outdoor antenna.
The overall ease of use of the 20R compared to the old TIVO Samsung unit isn't comparable, the menu seems reduntant and some pages are multi touch instead of easy one touch. Again I know it is comfort of ease and familarity but still there are some improvements to be made.

I know that my TV is 3 years old and is ancient technology compared with what most of you are watching but I was impressed with the picture of what few HD channels that are available on D*. My wife asked me at lunch about the antenna issue and when I mentioned about having to get an outside antenna she was like "great! just what I wanted something else hanging off the house!" then she goes "I don't think that the Smith's have to have an antenna or dishes ...they have Digital Cable". There maybe something to think about there.

Thanks for all the info, this is a wonderful resource. Sorry for the long post but appreciate the chance to vent.

Mark