My wife likes to rattle the neighbors cages, doesn't mind the seperate UHF and VHF TV antennas on the roof as well as the scanner discone and dual band and triband vhf/uhf ham radio antennas.. she really wants me to put up a 100 foot free standing tower in the backyard !

I have a H20 receiver and Panasonic TH-50PHD8UK PDP

I have a 50PHD9UK that looks great when connected to either the HDMI or component output of a H20-600. I should qualify that it depends on the show, but regardless HDMI and component look nearly the same.

Are you playing DVDs or High def from the PS3 and comparing it to D* HD lite?

If I recall correctly, in the H20 setup you can force it to always output 1080i. If your 8UK is anything like my 9UK, it will like 1080i better.

Two quick questions :

1. Had D* upgrade from an H10 to the H20-100 on my Samsung 42" DLP...the video-audio flickers every 3-4 seconds (message-looking for signal) using HDMI and anything higher than 480 resolution. Installed component cables and can go full 1080i resolution with no problems at all (actually, the video looks Great using component)! Do All Samy DLP's have this problem w\HDMI? (looking to get either the HL-S6767W or the HL-S7178W for Den on another H20-100)!

2. Are component outputs of the H20 receivers "digital" or "analog"?

Thanks for any help!

Ted

Two quick questions :

1. Had D* upgrade from an H10 to the H20-100 on my Samsung 42" DLP...the video-audio flickers every 3-4 seconds (message-looking for signal) using HDMI and anything higher than 480 resolution. Installed component cables and can go full 1080i resolution with no problems at all (actually, the video looks Great using component)! Do All Samy DLP's have this problem w\HDMI? (looking to get either the HL-S6767W or the HL-S7178W for Den on another H20-100)!

2. Are component outputs of the H20 receivers "digital" or "analog"?

Thanks for any help!

Ted

From what I've read, HDMI is not a common interface from TV manufacturers to TV manufacturer and Receiver to Receiver. Some models may work correctly while others may not. They are apparently trying to standardize and fix this issue. They are aware of it.

Doug

ColdCase,

I am comparing games at 720p and BlueRay movies on the PS3 via HDMI to HDMI from my H20. I wonder if it has anything to do with the fact that I have the 100 model and not the 600. I haven't had much time to play around with the settings, but I'll try it again this weekend and see if things are different.

What blade do you have for your 9UK panny?

Ah - well, BlueRay at 1080P is bound to be different. I would suspect the BlueRay output, as opposed to the problem anywhere else in the system.

Marknga - you are not the first person that has said the wife doesn't want things on the house. This baffles me - why would any wife care about a dish or an antenna on a house ? Maybe its a generational thing. When I was growing up in S. Georgia, everyone had a tower and an antenna on a rotor. It was the only way to get more than one channel.

ColdCase,

I am comparing games at 720p and BlueRay movies on the PS3 via HDMI to HDMI from my H20. I wonder if it has anything to do with the fact that I have the 100 model and not the 600. I haven't had much time to play around with the settings, but I'll try it again this weekend and see if things are different.

What blade do you have for your 9UK panny?

There is a wide variation in D* program content. Try the following:

Tune to a high quality HD channel, HDNet or DiscoveryHD perhaps.

Find the RESOLUTION Key on H20 Front Panel. This key is used to cycle all available resolutions. By pressing this key, you can switch resolutions to see if that improves the picture. (You should be able to select 1080 and I recommend you leave it at 1080 for this display)

I think the H20 defaults to native off, but you may want to check the setting in the H20 display menu. (It is set to 16:9 right?)

I have the TY-FB8HM blade. The PS3 will look better than anything on D*. Some of the OTA shows, sports transmitted 1080 in particular, will look almost as good. Grand Tourisimo on my PSII looks better to me than most D*.

There should not be any difference between the 100 or 600 model in this case.

I did not notice the small defects until I watched an HD DVD. You just don't know how bad regular video is until you sit down with some real HD video :D Don't know how I survived all these years without it.....

Jeff
We were the same way as you. The only way to get a signal was to have an antenna. I tell my kids that I was the orginal "channel remote" and the orginal
"antenna rotor"cause my Dad would holler: "Mark go change the channel" or "Mark go turn the antenna toward Columbus".
I think that in our neighborhoods now since everyone around us has cable and all the phone lines and power lines are underground that the Sat dishes and an antenna are just more visible.

Thanks for replies.

Mark

ha ! I have the same memories - same location too - we lived in Albany. One good thing about those days - everyone had a common frame of reference when talking about what was on TV. Now ith hundreds of channels to pick from, not so much.

Oops, there I go on a side-bar again.

Coldcase,

The resolution on my H20 is set to 1080i which I find looks the best and is the most consistent. I have no complaints with component, but I just can't understand why HDMI looks so saturated, even the blue colors in the D* guide look way over saturated. But the colors look superb with the same HDMI cable from my PS3.

I will note that I have a TY-FB7HM HDMI blade but from the user posts on this forum, I haven't heard of any reported differences.

2. Are component outputs of the H20 receivers "digital" or "analog"?


Ted

Analog.

Digital would be either DVI or HDMI outputs.

Is there anyway to change the interface of the H20...especially the brightness of it?

Has there been any word on the issues being resolved on the HR20? Also, is there anyone that doesn't regret staying with their HR10-250 TIVO unit that has upgraded to the HR20? I am thinking about replacing one of my HR10-250's with the new HR20 so that I can get rid of my antenna, I currently use it to get ABC since I get the NY feeds for the other three channels. Am I making a mistake? I need a reality check here to see if I should do it or not.

Thanks everyone,

Kemical


P.S. Anyone try to upgrade the hard drive yet, I read early reports it was hard to get too, but required no programming just a swap out.

Has there been any word on the issues being resolved on the HR20?


Just a thought, but you may get more or even better answers on a HR20 or DVR thread, this is a non DVR, H20 receiver thread.

See http://www.dbstalk.com/forumdisplay.php?f=112 for HR20 threads. Now back to H20 talk.

I have an H20-100 and I am trying to run a 24 AWG 35-foot HDMI cable from the H20 to a Front Projector.

It seems as if the signal from the H20 isn't strong enough to sustain a picture. When plugged into the FP, I will get an image for about half a second and then it goes blank and the FP says there is no signal present.

I thought it might be a cable or a problem with the projector, but I connected a DVD player via HDMI to the FP and it worked flawlessly.

Has anyone else run into this problem with their H20?

Do I really need to purchase a HDMI repeater or is this a problem with the unit?

Thanks for the help!

Rodd

rclAlaric - There is a known issue with the H20-100 and HDMI. Do a search on this thread for the details. You can either use component cables or get your hands on a H20-600 (which doesn't have the problem).

My appologies, I misread the title, oops.

Kemical

Rodd - I personally believe you are pushing the limit of HDMI in cable length. See http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/34579/122868.html. You may need a booster. Only way to really tell, I suppose, is to see if there is anyway you can shorten the run temporarily as a test...

I thought it was too long as well, but when the DVD worked flawlessly with the cable, I immediately thought it was a problem with the H20.

I just ordered a 10ft HDMI cable, so I will check it out from there.

I'll keep you all posted.

Thanks,

Rodd

I have the H20 and I'm looking to either get a Tivo as DVR for this unit or use media center to record programs. Any ideas on the best way to make a DVR for this unit? Recording programs in HD isn't necessarily a major requirement, but would be nice.

I may also try to get DTV to upgrade the unit to the HR20

I went to my local BB Wednesday and bought a Samsung HLS5687W and as an in-store promotion they gave me an H20 and took $50 off the TV price. I currently have a Samsung SIR-T160 HD receiver. I receive my local HD channels off the east coast feed. My question is:

-Should I activate the H20 and stop the T160?

-If I do activate the H20, will I need to get the 5lnb dish?

-Any known issues between the 5687W and the H20?

Thanks for the help!

Devin

I went to my local BB Wednesday and bought a Samsung HLS5687W and as an in-store promotion they gave me an H20 and took $50 off the TV price. I currently have a Samsung SIR-T160 HD receiver. I receive my local HD channels off the east coast feed. My question is:

-Should I activate the H20 and stop the T160?

-If I do activate the H20, will I need to get the 5lnb dish?

-Any known issues between the 5687W and the H20?

Thanks for the help!

Devin

If you've been with D* for any length of time, they will install the new 5LNB dish and give you one H20 for free... why wouldn't you do it?

My existing HD recievers were the Sony SAT HD100 and the Samsung T360 which were both replaced with the H20's (I talked them into replacing both, cost was $19.95). The H20 has just as good a picture but is a lot slower at everything than the Samsung or the Sony except for the search function. It is not un-usable, I just wasn't expecting the lastest gen boxes to be slower than what I had. Still, they are able to see the extra satellites and I now get my HD locals via sat (I still have my OTA antenna hooked up and still get the channels that D* doesn't offer with it).

I kept the HD boxes for now. In fact, I hooked up the Samsung to my 3rd bedroom SD TV and switched out an SD reciever. You could do the same, just try out the new H20 and if you don't like it and can live without the HD locals, switch back. Be advised though that eventually there will be content on the new sats (and the yet to be launched sats) that will require the boxes capable of seeing all the sattelites. Right now only the HD locals are missing if you use an old gen box with the new dish.

The new dish seems to be superior in terms of rain fade to anything I've had before and that alone makes it worth it to me (living in South Florida).

From my own experience I can say that the hdmi on the h20/100 is very sensitive. I finally went to component to fix the problem. I really can't see much of a difference and now I no longer have the problem of signal loss that I encountered before. Has anyone else seen that big of a difference from switching from component to hdmi? I know my cable and signal is o.k. since I use to use a older model hd box from direct and I never had signal loss from the hdmi connection,and my ps3 with hdmi works great with no problems at all.

I have not seen any visible difference between HDMI and component in my house (with -600's) HDMI is not about signal improvement, it's all about content management

...and in some suprising news, everyone with an H20, and for that matter everyone with directv will be paying more $$$$$ soon....

:)

Woot!

...and in some suprising news, everyone with an H20, and for that matter everyone with directv will be paying more $$$$$ soon....

:)

Woot!

any idea how much it will go up per month after the new sats are in the air and we have "100 more HDTV channels"?

I have not seen any visible difference between HDMI and component in my house (with -600's) HDMI is not about signal improvement, it's all about content management

I also use the component cables over HDMI. They claim, depending on your hardware, a better picture is capable because there is no conversion (all digital). I find the component cables to be equal to or slightly improved from the HDMI connection for PQ with my HR10-250 connected to a Mitsubishi 52" DLP (720p).

The TV has only one HDMI, so it is used for an upscaling Denon DVD player, which requires that type of cable.

I have the H20 and I'm looking to either get a Tivo as DVR for this unit or use media center to record programs. Any ideas on the best way to make a DVR for this unit? Recording programs in HD isn't necessarily a major requirement, but would be nice.

I may also try to get DTV to upgrade the unit to the HR20

I have an older Tivo and found it is unable to change the channels on the H20. It does not have a serial port and the IR eye would not recognize my Tivo's commands. I contacted Tivo (Sony) and they said it was not compatible with the H20. D* is trying to push therir own DVR's instead.

any idea how much it will go up per month after the new sats are in the air and we have "100 more HDTV channels"?

With the recent price increase, I can't imagine they will go up too much more.

I knew they would bump the prices and on some other boards, some D* people say this will be the ONLY increase

But I still think D* bumps up again if the sats go up on time and everything works

I apologize if this question has been answered before. I searched this thread and this forum the best I could before posting.

I bought the H20 a little over a month ago to go with my new Optoma HD70 projector. I used it with DirecTV to get my HD OTA locals (along with regular satellite service, of course). I've since moved, and my new apartment complex provides free internet and TV service. Unfortunately, there are no HD channels included, and there's no option to upgrade. I tried to connect the H20 to my projector in an attempt to use the built-in HD tuner, but the receiver told me that I can't use it AT ALL unless I'm hooked up to a DirecTV feed.

Is there any way around this? All I want to do is use the receiver as an HD tuner for my locals so that I don't have to invest another several hundred dollars in a STB tuner.

The H20 needs to see a satellite before it will allow you to use the OTA tuner. If you have a dish, even a single LNB dish, and you can aim it at a DirecTV satellite, even with no subscription, the OTA will be enabled. This is, at best, a stop gap solution, for as soon as you remove the dish and power cycle the H20, it will go back to blocking OTA.

I have the 46" XBR2 and HD DirecTV receiver. What setting for the TV and the Receiver should I use; Native on, all resolutions checked, 16:9 ratio, stretch or crop. What's the normal display setting for the TV, wide full?

DirecTV serviceman told me that the receiver doesn't recognize or distinguish the aspect ratio oh the TV being used and turned off by native option and choose the 4:3 ratio enough though it is a HD wide screen TV.

Does anyone here know how to adjust the zoom so that the overscan on the system isn't as pronounced. While watching 24 the other night, I noticed that the FOX bug in the corner had the "X" cut into a quarter, and the "F" and the "O" were cut in half. I am certain that it is the DirecTV receiver doing this, as the three units in the house are connected to three different TV models.

If anyone knows where I could look to find information on how to adjust the overscan on the receivers I would greatly appriciate it. Thanks.

I have the 46" XBR2 and HD DirecTV receiver. What setting for the TV and the Receiver should I use; Native on, all resolutions checked, 16:9 ratio, stretch or crop. What's the normal display setting for the TV, wide full?
DirecTV serviceman told me that the receiver doesn't recognize or distinguish the aspect ratio oh the TV being used and turned off by native option and choose the 4:3 ratio enough though it is a HD wide screen TV.
I have an LCD XBR2, I use [TV] full, [H20] 16:9, native on, 480i, 720P, & 1080i. This will have a lag when changing channels as the resolution changes on both the TV & H20. If this bothers you, you can change to native off & have the H20 set what resolution you want.

Most of the time if not all the time when ABC, CBS, and NBC go to commercials, my full picture goes to the 4:3 aspect like the commercials are not being broadcast in the the same resolution as the regular programming. This happens with ESPN HD as well. The picture shrinks with black bars or space on the left and right.

Most of the time if not all the time when ABC, CBS, and NBC go to commercials, my full picture goes to the 4:3 aspect like the commercials are not being broadcast in the the same resolution as the regular programming. This happens with ESPN HD as well.
Welcome to HD. Not all of the programing is HD. The signal is, but the program isn't.

Eawil - this happens to me if I have accidentlally set the TV to zoom. Check that your TV settings are truly 16:9, with no zoom. I have never seen this behavior otherwise.

Wise - I agree with VOS, only I have native off, and only 480i and 1080i enabled to improve the channel change performance. Your serviceman gave you bad advice.

The first H-20-600 that I bought about 15 months ago (not leased) has had the reboot problem for the past several months. The warranty when I bought it was listed as 90 days. Wednesday night about 8:30 pm, I called D* to see what could be done. I was on hold about 20 minutes waiting for a CSR. When he came on, I told him about the problem, that the box was hot and that it rebooted twice while I was on hold. He asked me to scroll through the menus and look for a temperature reading (which is not in the H20 menu), for the software version, and to run a diagnostic test. Once these things were done, he transferred me to tech support. After about 5 minutes with tech support, they agreed to ship me a new box within 2 business days at no charge. The box arrived today. It is a refurbished H20-600 and has been working flawlessly all evening. I was initially worried because I read so many stories about D* shipping replacement units that did not work. I must say that so far I am very pleased with their service in this situation.

Jeff

The first H-20-600 that I bought about 15 months ago (not leased) has had the reboot problem for the past several months. The warranty when I bought it was listed as 90 days. Wednesday night about 8:30 pm, I called D* to see what could be done. I was on hold about 20 minutes waiting for a CSR. When he came on, I told him about the problem, that the box was hot and that it rebooted twice while I was on hold. He asked me to scroll through the menus and look for a temperature reading (which is not in the H20 menu), for the software version, and to run a diagnostic test. Once these things were done, he transferred me to tech support. After about 5 minutes with tech support, they agreed to ship me a new box within 2 business days at no charge. The box arrived today. It is a refurbished H20-600 and has been working flawlessly all evening. I was initially worried because I read so many stories about D* shipping replacement units that did not work. I must say that so far I am very pleased with their service in this situation.

Jeff

Well I hope you stay pleased. What I mean is having the unit for one day and being pleased does not equal having the unit for several months and being pleased. So stay tuned.

The HR-20 requires the new 5-lnb dish to receive HD-OTA. So am I correct in assuming that if you still are using an HR10-250 in another room, you will not be able to receive your local HD-OTA on that unit?

Does anyone here know how to adjust the zoom so that the overscan on the system isn't as pronounced. While watching 24 the other night, I noticed that the FOX bug in the corner had the "X" cut into a quarter, and the "F" and the "O" were cut in half. I am certain that it is the DirecTV receiver doing this, as the three units in the house are connected to three different TV models.

If anyone knows where I could look to find information on how to adjust the overscan on the receivers I would greatly appriciate it. Thanks.
There is an adjustment for the position of the picture in the H20’s setup, but none for overscan. All TVs, even the 1080p sets, ship with a certain amount of overscan built in, ranging from about 3% to 5%. The Sharp Aquos LCDs have the least I have seen, about 1%. If they didn’t you would be bothered by edge jitter and VBI trash. I have noticed my local FOX station places their bug very close to the lower right corner and gets partially cut off. My Sony RPLCD set has a 5% overscan. I have been told that it can be reduced using the "Service Menu" for the set but due to re-scaling it might make the PQ worse. I doubt that the H20 causes the overscan that you mention.
Snuffy
PS. You can check your overscan percentage with either Avia or Video Essentials DVD.

The HR-20 requires the new 5-lnb dish to receive HD-OTA. So am I correct in assuming that if you still are using an HR10-250 in another room, you will not be able to receive your local HD-OTA on that unit?
You do not need the 5 LNB dish or the H20 to receive your HD locals OTA (Over The Air) just your HR10 and an antenna. To receive the HD locals via satellite from D* however, you will need the 5 LNB dish and an H20 or HR20 box to get them from the Ka satellites (99°, 103°) coded in MPEG4.
Snuffy

For the guy with the old Sony TIVO

I use a Sony Series 1 TIVO with my H20 via s-video connection and an IR-Blaster.
That means it is older than dirt.
Works fine. Not HD quality but good enough for following series TV shows when you are out
of the house.

Steve

So, the HR20 is getting "Raven" for a beta download tonight.. Do you think we will get one?

When are we getting interactive?

So, the HR20 is getting "Raven" for a beta download tonight.. Do you think we will get one?

When are we getting interactive?

Doubt it. FWIW, I happened to talk to advanced tech support at D* for another problem today and asked about active on the H20, she looked around on their system but couldn't find any information on when it would be activated.

People on DBSTalk seem very encouraged by the latest HR update....so I am hoping it will become national soon.

My HR is fine but my OTA signal is weak as HELL

You do not need the 5 LNB dish or the H20 to receive your HD locals OTA (Over The Air) just your HR10 and an antenna. To receive the HD locals via satellite from D* however, you will need the 5 LNB dish and an H20 or HR20 box to get them from the Ka satellites (99°, 103°) coded in MPEG4.
Snuffy

Oops....what I meant to convey, was the fact that you need the 5 lnb dish to receive HD locals via satellite (not OTA). The HD locals OTA will still be MPEG-2, so they will not be available on the new HR-20.

OK, this may be a stupid question, but here it goes. I just got my HD upgrade installed, H20, new dish, etc. I am not hooked up to a phone line. The H20 is letting me order PPV movies with my remote. Does the new dish/h20 send signals? I didn't think it was possible, but why is it letting me order movies without being hooked up to a phone line?

OK, this may be a stupid question, but here it goes. I just got my HD upgrade installed, H20, new dish, etc. I am not hooked up to a phone line. The H20 is letting me order PPV movies with my remote. Does the new dish/h20 send signals? I didn't think it was possible, but why is it letting me order movies without being hooked up to a phone line?
It will work until you hit a limit, I think $10.00 The H20 does NOT uplink to the satellite, its only outbound communication is by the phone line.

It will work until you hit a limit, I think $10.00 The H20 does NOT uplink to the satellite, its only outbound communication is by the phone line.
The limit is more like $30 & then you will need to use the phone or order on the web.

Oops.... The HD locals OTA will still be MPEG-2, so they will not be available on the new HR-20.
I think the "oops" is "The HD locals OTA will still be MPEG-2, so they will not be available on the new HR-20", since the HR-20 decodes both MPEG-2 & 4 OTA or SAT. :)

For the guy with the old Sony TIVO

I use a Sony Series 1 TIVO with my H20 via s-video connection and an IR-Blaster.
That means it is older than dirt.
Works fine. Not HD quality but good enough for following series TV shows when you are out
of the house.

Steve
Where can I get ahold of an IR Blaster?

The HD locals OTA will still be MPEG-2, so they will not be available on the new HR-20.

The HR20 does receive OTA ATSC MPEG2 channels. There are some cities where there is a problem with the box which prevents some channels from being tuned in, D*'s working on that.

I think the "oops" is "The HD locals OTA will still be MPEG-2, so they will not be available on the new HR-20", since the HR-20 decodes both MPEG-2 & 4 OTA or SAT. :)

Ok, thanks for the info. I would like to use both receivers for HD-OTA, so I wanted to make sure that was possible with the new dish as well.

There is an adjustment for the position of the picture in the H20’s setup, but none for overscan. All TVs, even the 1080p sets, ship with a certain amount of overscan built in, ranging from about 3% to 5%. The Sharp Aquos LCDs have the least I have seen, about 1%. If they didn’t you would be bothered by edge jitter and VBI trash. I have noticed my local FOX station places their bug very close to the lower right corner and gets partially cut off. My Sony RPLCD set has a 5% overscan. I have been told that it can be reduced using the "Service Menu" for the set but due to re-scaling it might make the PQ worse. I doubt that the H20 causes the overscan that you mention.
Snuffy
PS. You can check your overscan percentage with either Avia or Video Essentials DVD.

Thanks for the info. I'll go see what I can do to adjust this for my Mits.

just had the HR-20 installed and I must say that this unit is very noisy... is this typical for this unit or do I maybe have a bad unit... sounds as if the water is running through pipes elsewhere in the house... any help appreciated... thanks.

just had the HR-20 installed and I must say that this unit is very noisy... is this typical for this unit or do I maybe have a bad unit... sounds as if the water is running through pipes elsewhere in the house... any help appreciated... thanks.
Welome tapar1 !
Glad you are aboard.

However You are in the wrong section this is the H-20 (Non DVR) Receiver Section. The H-20 has no fan and no hard disk drive and are therefore very quite.
Go Here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=704067&page=75&pp=20) for the HR-20 Secton.

I think you might get better results to your HR-20 post there.

Have a good one... :)

RSlack

All,
I have been trying to diagnose a problem with my H20 and a local 8.2 channel. I cannot, no matter what I try, get audio from this channel. I have contacted them and they said only one other person has called about this and never called again. They were not sure what type of equipment that person had.

Summary: New H20 install on 12-30-06. Connected to my Zenith HDTV Monitor via Component cables (picture is great btw) and connected to my RCA Surround Receiver via Optical. Signal strength of OTA channel in question is 100% (can see the tower from my house). All other ATSC tuned channels work great!

I have tried the DD setting in the box, tried re-scanning for OTA channels and tried reading through this thread for other issues or solutions but have yet to find any. My wife is about ready to attack me since we dumped TW and switched to D* for price and hopefully better quality, but she has missed her CW dearly (she is having Gilmore withdrawals). :D

Are there any other suggestions / solutions I could try to get audio from this channel?

Thanks,

Greg

All,
I have been trying to diagnose a problem with my H20 and a local 8.2 channel. I cannot, no matter what I try, get audio from this channel. I have contacted them and they said only one other person has called about this and never called again. They were not sure what type of equipment that person had.

Summary: New H20 install on 12-30-06. Connected to my Zenith HDTV Monitor via Component cables (picture is great btw) and connected to my RCA Surround Receiver via Optical. Signal strength of OTA channel in question is 100% (can see the tower from my house). All other ATSC tuned channels work great!

I have tried the DD setting in the box, tried re-scanning for OTA channels and tried reading through this thread for other issues or solutions but have yet to find any. My wife is about ready to attack me since we dumped TW and switched to D* for price and hopefully better quality, but she has missed her CW dearly (she is having Gilmore withdrawals). :D

Are there any other suggestions / solutions I could try to get audio from this channel?

Thanks,

Greg
Greg,
It may be that your channel 8-2 is not transmitting audio for that sub-channel. If you are getting audio on 8-1, which would be on the same transmitter, that is likely the case. Some of the stations are frequently changing their sub-channels and content around due to testing. If your locals are like mine, calling them about problems is usually a waste of time, unless you ask for the Chief Engineer. Be patient, buy your wife some flowers :) and the audio will probably return soon.
Snuffy

PS. See if you can find info for your local area thread, here;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=45

H-20 dilema:
Just upgrade a couple of days ago to a new H-20 receiver for my bedroom: signal meter fluctuate between 82% to 65% on the 3 available satellites. This set up also have the new slimline dish. Any idea why my Samsung SITR-165 receiver be over 90% on the meter signal with the same dish.

Thanks,

ChecoM

Others, including myself, have noted that even with the same dish, the H20's will show a different signal strength than other receivers. I have the same signal strengths with my H20, on average, although I also have some in the 90's

Greg,
It may be that your channel 8-2 is not transmitting audio for that sub-channel. If you are getting audio on 8-1, which would be on the same transmitter, that is likely the case. Some of the stations are frequently changing their sub-channels and content around due to testing. If your locals are like mine, calling them about problems is usually a waste of time, unless you ask for the Chief Engineer. Be patient, buy your wife some flowers :) and the audio will probably return soon.
Snuffy

PS. See if you can find info for your local area thread, here;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=45


Snuffy,

Thanks for the info on the local thread. Unfortunately I have visited the local station since my post and they are transmitting audio and verified it while I was there. The Chief engineer was not in (out on vacation and well deserved after his HD project is finally on the air), but I did talk with the GM and another engineer. The GM mentioned that he had heard it only one other time from another Satellite subscriber, although he did not know of specifics of the other receiver.
After asking others with other tuner brands I have found that I am unique. I have not found another with an H20 in my area yet, though I will be trying the local thread.
BTW, I am very pleased otherwise with my system. No real complaints and I am sure that I will find that it is something either very unique to my setup or something I did not set up properly.

Thanks for the help!

Snuffy,

Thanks for the info on the local thread. Unfortunately I have visited the local station since my post and they are transmitting audio and verified it while I was there. The Chief engineer was not in (out on vacation and well deserved after his HD project is finally on the air), but I did talk with the GM and another engineer. The GM mentioned that he had heard it only one other time from another Satellite subscriber, although he did not know of specifics of the other receiver.
After asking others with other tuner brands I have found that I am unique. I have not found another with an H20 in my area yet, though I will be trying the local thread.
BTW, I am very pleased otherwise with my system. No real complaints and I am sure that I will find that it is something either very unique to my setup or something I did not set up properly.

Thanks for the help!

You may find it's your AVR rather than the H20. I have a B&K AVR307 and when I change to certain D* stations, I get no DD audio. However, if I cycle the audio mode on my AVR, it syncs up and works fine. I have added a soft button to my Pronto remote that cycles the AVR audio for this reason. BTW, my previous AV Receiver (an Onkyo) did the same thing with D* boxes.

You might try changing the audio output on the H20 to the non-DD setting and see if you receive the station ok (it will be stereo, but will prove if it's the station or your H20). I only have the problem syncing to certain DD stations, usually HD with DD audio.

An IR blaster is just the infrared led on a cable that plugs into the back of your TIVO. You should have gotten one with your TIVO or you can get a replacement from various places on the web like Weakknees. Do a google search on IR Blaster.

An IR blaster is just the infrared led on a cable that plugs into the back of your TIVO. You should have gotten one with your TIVO or you can get a replacement from various places on the web like Weakknees. Do a google search on IR Blaster.

Thanks, that's what I thought it was. My old Sony Tivo shows about three possible remote codes which are supposed to switch the D* channels, but none of them work with the H20. My previous Hughes HD receiver worked fine using the serial port connection. May have to bite the bullet and get another HR20 DVR.

Thanks, that's what I thought it was. My old Sony Tivo shows about three possible remote codes which are supposed to switch the D* channels, but none of them work with the H20. My previous Hughes HD receiver worked fine using the serial port connection. May have to bite the bullet and get another HR20 DVR.

I think I read somewhere that the H20 IR receiver is quirky and can easily be overloaded. You may want to try repositioning the blaster, you could get lucky....

I think I read somewhere that the H20 IR receiver is quirky and can easily be overloaded. You may want to try repositioning the blaster, you could get lucky....
Some LCD TVs emit enough IR to screw up the HR-20. Going into the TV setting & changing back light or power saving seem to resolve this.

Got a quick question - is it possible to use the H20 to receive OTA local channels without a DirecTV subscription? Or any of the other DirecTV receivers for that matter?

I have a small 26" HDTV and have DirecTV but don't want to pay the extra monthly $5 fee for the receiver just to get local channels. I'm not interested in getting any HD service through DirecTV at this time. I was looking at getting a Voom box for the HD Tuner but thought a DirecTV box would be a better investment if I want to get their HD service in the future.

The H20 requires to see a DirecTV satellite before it will allow the OTA tuner to work. If you have DirecTV, then the H20 will have no problem doing OTA, just put the antenna feed in.

The H20 actually has to be subbed to work unless somethings changed The H10 only has to see the sat to boot, and any earlier receiver will work just fine as an OTA tuner

Ah, that is where I was not clear - I wasn't sure if the H20 required to be subscribed, or just see a DirecTV satellite.

Ok, cool - I think I'm going to go with the Samsung SIR-TS360. Thanks for your help!

Ah, that is where I was not clear - I wasn't sure if the H20 required to be subscribed, or just see a DirecTV satellite.
The H-20 won't, but the HR-20 will [go figure?].

I have had an audio problem with my H20 for some time now. When watching mostly OTA HD locals which sometimes break up, about 1 in 10 times I lose the DD audio. I have to change channels or turn the H20 off/on to restore the sound. I first thought it was my Panny SA-XR57 AV receiver but I now believe it is the H20, since turning the AV receiver off/on doesn’t cure it. If I set Dolby Digital to OFF in the H20 setup I have no more problems. My connection from the H20 to the receiver is only by a Toslink optical cable. I also have LR analog cables run to my DVR and it never fails. Anyone else experience this?
Snuffy

I have not experienced any audio glitches using optical and DD with my setup that did not originate with a broadcast problem. These glitches were self clearing. Sorry I could not help.

Switched my H20 from an older Sony CRT HDTV to a newer Sony LCD and now the HDMI magically works. Maybe someday that long-lost software update will actually occur, but until then buying a new HDTV seems to be the only way out [sarcasm].

My old Hughes SD-HBH crashed so it seemed foolish not to buy a HD receiver. Boy, was I wrong with the HD20. It is just not ready for primetime. The menus are slow and they stink as compared to the Hughes and the Sony before it. I particularly dislike the autotune feature. It takes at least three keystrokes to autotune anything then at least three more to delete a mistaken autotune. You can only enter one program per time slot (the Hughes let me enter several so I could pick from my favorite at the time I was ready to watch). On the HD-20 I entered a particular program to play every friday at 8p but the HD20 insists on programming it for thursday.

Does anyone know of upcoming upgrades? This is clearly work in progress so it seems there ought to be definite plans for an upgrade to at least the standards of 5 years ago (10 generations in techie talk).

I just got an HD set in my bedroom and so upgraded to an H20. The first one they shipped me would not even power on. So I had them send another. The replacement was connected with HDMI and after set up and activation it flickered on and off repeatedly--one second the picture would be fine, the next it would say "no signal." From this forum I understand now that this may be a known issue with HDMI on this receiver. They are sending another replacement, but I'm not confident. Any advice, such as going with a different product, a different service, using component (assuming HDMI was even the problem)? If I use component, will I be losing picture quality? Thanks.

If I use component, will I be losing picture quality? Thanks.


I've used both on a H20-600 and did not notice any difference in PQ. Some say HDMI is sharper, Component more vibrant colors, but my eye looking at a 50 inch 738 line plasma from 12 feet cannot tell the difference (H20 set to output 1080i).

On my prior Samsung DLP and now on my Samsung 4095 LCD, my H20 miniguide is shifted to the right. I've had both the 100 and 600 series and they both display this behavior. There are settings to move the entire picture (setup > display > Centering) but this effects everything, not just the miniguide. Any thoughts?

Please pardon me if this is posted elsewhere, but this thread is so huge its impossible to find the answer.
What is the difference between the following:
H20
H20-100
H20-600

And can either of these work with the 3LNB oval dish?
I don't need local HD via satalite.
I currently have the HR10-250 in the living room with the 3LNB dish and OTA antenna, and need a new HD box w/OTA tuner for the bedroom
I don't want to change my dish if possible.

Direct TV wants $99 for this box and is telling me that I need the 5LNB dish.

I told them to keep it and I will buy one off of ebay for much less.

Thanks for the help

Another question on the H20 boxes
Is there any way to enter a dash for an OTA station via the remote?
i.e. 3-1, 10-1

Another question on the H20 boxes
Is there any way to enter a dash for an OTA station via the remote?
i.e. 3-1, 10-1

There should be a dash (-) just to the left of the zero (0).

The H20 will work just fine with a 3LNB dish. I am doing that myself. The -100 and -600 are just manufacturer codes. The 100 runs a little cooler, and the 600 has a slightly better OTA tuner.

If D* is offering any kind of deal on the 5LNB dish I would consider it for the sake of future proofing. While you dont need it now, any new national HD channels will be on the new sats and eventually all the HD will move to 99 and 103.

Please pardon me if this is posted elsewhere, but this thread is so huge its impossible to find the answer.
What is the difference between the following:
H20
H20-100
H20-600

And can either of these work with the 3LNB oval dish?
I don't need local HD via satalite.
I currently have the HR10-250 in the living room with the 3LNB dish and OTA antenna, and need a new HD box w/OTA tuner for the bedroom
I don't want to change my dish if possible.

Direct TV wants $99 for this box and is telling me that I need the 5LNB dish.

I told them to keep it and I will buy one off of ebay for much less.

Thanks for the help

What I'd recommend is upgrade to the HR20 DVR vs. the H20 and either put that in your bedroom or swap with the HR10-250. D* is putting a LOT of effort into the HR20, with software upgrades to make it work better (it's getting close) plus new features. The H20 STILL doesn't even have the "active" feature on it which D* has been saying will be coming soon since last spring. Since you already paid for the HR10-250 try to talk them into the HR20 for the same price as the H20, IMHO it's a better box.

My last rant gave my new HD20 a 2 (out of possible 10). After using it a full day I am lowering my rate to 1. New problems:
1. If you turn on the "native" option when you turn on your system all you get is "searching of signal". The fix is to push the resolution button on the box.

2. No alpabetical name sort. If you want A&E you may have to slowly shuffle through a couple hundred channel numbers.

3. If you autotune for a specific program and you are late the autotune has already cancelled. Example. I wanted to watch a program at 8p and I didn't turn on the HD20 till 8:02 then I had to search for the program again. My old Hughes would turn on the decoder so you could even tape something w/o leaving the whole thing on all the time.

4. When you do figure out how to manually autotune a program you have to search the entire 600 channel line up not your favorite list.

5. If you want sort XM music to a personal list - the Hughes box gave a brief description (blues, CW, etc.) - you better have access to an older box to tell which ones are of interest.

6. Autotuning for 8p every Friday night still shows up as 8p thursday.

7. Autotuning does not take 3 keystrokes it takes 6

This might me the sorryest piece of electronic equipment I've had experience with. It is making cable TV look better and better.

1. It's the TV's fault. It can't do 480i over HDMI. It doesn't matter what receiver is used.
2. DVRs are program name based. Set up the programs you want and stop channel surfing.
3. Never use Autotune. Make series links. Autotune is wasteful and is only there to wean people from receivers to DVRs.
4. See 3.
5. I wouldn't consider using DirecTV for music.
6. See 3
7. See 3

What I'd recommend is upgrade to the HR20 DVR vs. the H20 and either put that in your bedroom or swap with the HR10-250. D* is putting a LOT of effort into the HR20, with software upgrades to make it work better (it's getting close) plus new features. The H20 STILL doesn't even have the "active" feature on it which D* has been saying will be coming soon since last spring. Since you already paid for the HR10-250 try to talk them into the HR20 for the same price as the H20, IMHO it's a better box.
Does the HR20 DVR have 2 live 30 minute buffers that allow me to pause each one and flip back and forth between them, as the HR10-250 allows?
This is a great feature that allows me to watch 2 shows at once w/o commercials.

And...what does the "Active" feature do?

Does the HR20 DVR have 2 live 30 minute buffers that allow me to pause each one and flip back and forth between them, as the HR10-250 allows?
This is a great feature that allows me to watch 2 shows at once w/o commercials.

And...what does the "Active" feature do?

Currently no, and no promise that it would ever be added. But over at DBSTalk it's rumored that it's something that "might" be added in the future, they're not sure yet. You can kind of simulate it by saying to record both shows and then flip back and forth, not a real user friendly way to do it though.

Active currently is what allows you to use the MIX channels to flip through the eight different channels on the page to listen to the audio. It also is used in the NFL Superfan package and the new NASCAR HotPass package. There's also the weather, lotto and horoscope application where you can pull up that info on the box. The HR20 also (when ethernet attached to your home network), when used with a ViiV Intel/Windows PC, can retrieve JPEG pictures and play MP3 audio files. If you don't have a ViiV system people have found that you can use other means to do this, I use TWONKYVISION software and it works fine.

It currently appears that D*'s putting a LOT more effort into the HR20 then the H20 so any new things would probably show up there long before the H20 ever gets them. Since you were looking for the H20 for your bedroom anyway, see if you can get a deal on the HR20 and put it there and keep using the HR10-250 where it is now. BTW, nobody has yet to have to return a HR10-250 when thet got a deal from D* on the HR20, you get to keep it and keep if active if you want.

Go Greywolf Go...Your alright!

On my prior Samsung DLP and now on my Samsung 4095 LCD, my H20 miniguide is shifted to the right. I've had both the 100 and 600 series and they both display this behavior. There are settings to move the entire picture (setup > display > Centering) but this effects everything, not just the miniguide. Any thoughts?
Mine is the same, So . . .

I really think that is the way they intended it to be. I don't see this as a problem since it works as expected :)
Snuffy

rad
Thank you so much for such a detailed post.
I will give them a call and see what happens.

Thanks again

hi guys I have had the h-20 for a while now it is on a tv that is hardly used when I try to use it I get waves going through the tv from top to bottom. I have tried it on 2 different tv's with the same result. When I tried using the composite out it stopped it is only happening with the component out. I ran a test on the reciever from the munu and it says that tuner 2 failed. I dunno if that is related or not. Any ideas on what to do?

Could someone give me a link to the official Directv HR10-250 discussion thread?

I've searched, and can't find it for some reason. I'd almost bet there is one though.

http://www.dbstalk.com/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=60&f=65
http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=7

These are AVS connected forums specializing is satellite and Tivo receivers.

Hello, I have a couple h20-100's delivered last November. Both were manufactured in Aug, '06. My problem is the HDMI problems with Sammy LCD's. I tried to update the software yesterday. the H20's both indicated that they had found new software and did the download. Afterwards, both still maintained the old software, even after hard reboot.
The old software is 100c, dated 11/8. My question is, is there a newer version than this, or are we still waiting for the release promised for December and then January???
Thanks, JIM

The old software is 100c, dated 11/8. My question is, is there a newer version than this, or are we still waiting for the release promised for December and then January???
Thanks, JIM

Nope, just keep waiting and waiting and waiting and waiting......

Hello, I have a couple h20-100's delivered last November. Both were manufactured in Aug, '06. My problem is the HDMI problems with Sammy LCD's. I tried to update the software yesterday. the H20's both indicated that they had found new software and did the download. Afterwards, both still maintained the old software, even after hard reboot.
The old software is 100c, dated 11/8. My question is, is there a newer version than this, or are we still waiting for the release promised for December and then January???
Thanks, JIM
I am frustrated as well. Two H20-100 STB's in my house working just fine over HDMI to my new Sharp LCD and my new Panasonic LCD. Then I bought a Panasonic AX100u front projector, and the H20-100 will not do the "handshake" via HDMI.(both boxes with existing cables fail to pass HDMI signal to the projector) So much for the carefully configured plan to use Direct's recommended "BEST" connection!
Thread searches reference this problem and promises of Firmware fixes since last October.
Today I find myself searching "customer satisfaction" with Verizon and Dish, nothing however would get me back to Adelphia/Time Warner.
Jim, thanks for your post, I needed a place to RANT.
Friday, I was shifted through 7 separate operators at Directv attempting to reach a knowledgeable Tech update on the status of the FIX. The problem was known but no one had any way to contact Engineering. Don't we have anyone from inside Directv monitoring this Forum?

Why not give D* a call and tell them you want an even swap of the H20 for a HR20, for no charge, since they've been promising for months to get out a release that fixes HDMI problems. Maybe you'll get lucky with it. I had a Sceptre LCD panel that didn't like the H20-600, put a HR20 in and no problems. YMMV

As for monitoring this forum, don't know, but the buzz is that they do watch threads over at www.dbstalk.com (this sites sister site).

Thanks for the info... It's what I thought. Not happy with Directv, even since I've been with them for a long time. The end of November they were advising that Santa Barbara Locals would go hi-def about Dec. 10, '06. I upgraded all of my equipment (four HD receivers) to the new ka/ku receivers, two HR-20's and two H20's and a 5-sat antenna. I called two days later and was advised that Santa Barbara Locals were now put back to the end of 2007. How can something like that be scheduled to go live in a couple days and then be put back a year??? Sorry, I'm a bit off subject, but I feel better now...
I believe it's time for D* to exchange the two H20's for something that works with the HDMI cable I have in the wall. I'm not buying more component cables and tearing up the wall. Time for them to spend some bucks if they can't get an engineer on the problem.
JIM

Steve:

Greetings! Have been a D* subscriber for one year. Have the 600 series receiver and initially had the 3LNB dish which according to installer was only one available in 03/06. Since then I upgraded to the 5LNB ONLY b/c 'someday' the local channels will be available in HD. The 3LNB worked just fine as does the 5LNB. As I am too far away to get locals OTA, I just wait & wait & wait with my 5LNB ready to go.


Please pardon me if this is posted elsewhere, but this thread is so huge its impossible to find the answer.
What is the difference between the following:
H20
H20-100
H20-600

And can either of these work with the 3LNB oval dish?
I don't need local HD via satalite.
I currently have the HR10-250 in the living room with the 3LNB dish and OTA antenna, and need a new HD box w/OTA tuner for the bedroom
I don't want to change my dish if possible.

Direct TV wants $99 for this box and is telling me that I need the 5LNB dish.

I told them to keep it and I will buy one off of ebay for much less.

Thanks for the help

I have recently posted several requests for guidance to correct/solve a HDMI, "hand shake" issue with the Panasonic AX100u projector and the Directv H20-100, STB.
I am here to post my successful discovery.
The 100 series box will not work, BUT----
The 600 series box (H20-600), WILL do the "hand shake via HDMI cables with this projector.

i am sorry if this has already been asked. i have searched a number of threads and have not as yet seen this one. i just installed my h20. the hd stations look fine. when viewing sd material, we prefer to use gray pillar boxes rather than stretching the material. however, with the new h20 receiver, the gray pillars have a black border on the inside edge of each pillar. the black edges will vary by station from an eighth of an inch thick to an inch thick. on some stations the black edge will be jagged on the right hand pillar. on other stations the black edge on the right hand pillar will reflect the colors on the screen image.

i am using the same screen settings on my sony a10 that i used with my mpeg2 hd receiver. i called directv about this and they said they had never encountered this problem. my guess is that i have just messed up an internal setting somewhere, but i can't seem to figure out what.

if you have encountered this problem or have any suggestions, they will be greatly appreciated.
I've had the same thing on my H20, and it drives me nuts. I don't think the pillar box on this unit is wide enough. I've also noticed some stations are worse than others.

I wonder how you get into the service menu, and if there is a adjustment for it?

I called D* and they won't admit there's a problem. Glad I'm not the only one seeing this. I worried the black lines will burn into my TV. May have to go back to my Zenith 520.

I've had the same thing on my H20, and it drives me nuts. I don't think the pillar box on this unit is wide enough. I've also noticed some stations are worse than others.

I wonder how you get into the service menu, and if there is a adjustment for it?

I called D* and they won't admit there's a problem. Glad I'm not the only one seeing this. I worried the black lines will burn into my TV. May have to go back to my Zenith 520.


My H20 does not show this problem but my HR20 (the DVR) does.
And DirecTV DOES know about this problem, it's just that the CSRs don't seem to know (or maybe can't be bothered to find out) what problems have been reported by other people.

I've seen that, too, but it is much ado about nothing. Burn-in is not a great concern. In fact, I have been using black bars on my rear projection for SD for upwards of 3 years now, and I have not seen any burn-in.

I've seen that, too, but it is much ado about nothing. Burn-in is not a great concern. In fact, I have been using black bars on my rear projection for SD for upwards of 3 years now, and I have not seen any burn-in.

I agree with Jeff here, if you have done at least the basic calibration (Avia for example) on your set, burn-in should not be much of an issue. I also use black bars and have had my TW65H80 CRT RPTV since 1999. No burn-in...

I agree with Jeff here, if you have done at least the basic calibration (Avia for example) on your set, burn-in should not be much of an issue. I also use black bars and have had my TW65H80 CRT RPTV since 1999. No burn-in...

Same here with my Toshiba CRT RPTV. If the contrast is set correctly burn-in should not be a problem. But too many TVs are set in "torch mode" from the factory, the contrast is much too high....

I keep reprogramming my favorites in my H20 and, regularly, channels above my OTA settings disappear. I'll pull up my custom list and it will only show my locals. Anything above 33.1 is gone. They are still there on the "All Channels" list. What gives?

Same here with my Toshiba CRT RPTV. If the contrast is set correctly burn-in should not be a problem. But too many TVs are set in "torch mode" from the factory, the contrast is much too high....

I have a plasma, and am more worried about the brightness of the guide on the screen. I get slight IR if I leave it on (searching through the guide) for a minute or so. It goes way quickly, but is annoying!

It sounds as if you have the contrast and brightness maxed out. I have a Pioneer Plasma, and used an Avia theater set-up DVD to adjust parameters. My set is now 4 years old, and I do not have any burn in or get residual images.

My H20 does not show this problem but my HR20 (the DVR) does.
And DirecTV DOES know about this problem, it's just that the CSRs don't seem to know (or maybe can't be bothered to find out) what problems have been reported by other people.


Well, I finally found a way around the problem by putting the receiver in native mode, telling it my TV supports all resolutions, and putting the view mode into "stretch." Not very intuitive, but at least my Hitachi is handling the pillar boxes.

I just installed an H20-100 and I live in the Columbus - Tupelo, MS DMA. I am not getting audio on WCBI-DT 4-1 (CBS), but I am able to get audio on WCBI's subchannels. From what I can tell, I think this is a problem only with the H20-100, not the H20-600 (which my neighbor owns). A man in Carrollton, AL has the same problem with the H20-100 <http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=463777&page=8&pp=30>.

Customer service at D* says that it will not replace the receiver. They told me instead to call WCBI's engineering department and complain.

Will a software update eventually remedy this problem, or should I hound them until they send me a new receiver?

This thread is so huge - apologies if this has already been posted

I'm trying to control an h20-100 with a replay 5516 using a Paterson serial translator. I think I have 2 different problems, 1
can I live with if I have to and the other is a showstopper.

I have installed the utility - I've updated the software and it
connects. My settings are
Normal Mode
Suppress Banner .2
USB reset checked
USB off time 1.00
USB on delay 0.8
When I plugged it in it had over 800 Resets
HiDef Director
Iniitally enable checked
698 698 Redirect off
699 699 Redirec on
2 2-1 none
4 4 - 1 none

I played around with it a bit. It seems like the reciever just stops
listening to the USB. I can change the channel using the Replay 4 0r
5 times correctly by either entering the channel number of using the
channel UP button but after a couple of times the Sat Reciever just
won't respond to the replay. If I use the sat remote, it'll change
channels. I then reset the satellite reciever entirely and the Replay
can control it again 4 or 5 more times. I was changing channels
slowly too.

It didn't seem to matter whether it was cable channels (SciFi, CNN,
etc) or local channels delivered via satellite. So that's my
showstopper issue.

The other issue still has to do with the local channels. My Sat
Recieve lineup is something like
Channel
2 KRON
2 SF2
2-1
2-2
4 KNBC
4 SF4
4-1
etc

The "2 KRON" is HDTV
The "2 SF2" is Standard Def
"2-1" I do not recieve

I want to tune to SF2 - this is full size and louder. However, if I
enter "2" on my replay, I get the first channel 2 KRON,

I tried redirecting the local channels but that didn't work, so I went
to channel 698 (redirect off) and then say channel 2 - I'd get Channel
2 HD in shadow box format. I don't know how to get the replay to Tune
to the second channel 2 (it's not channel 2-1). On the recieve remote
- I go to channel 2 and then hit channel up and it goes to the second
channel 2, then 2-1, etc.
I can disable the HDTV in a custom guide on the sat reciever, which
works for channel UP and DOWN, but if I enter the channel number it
goes back to the HD channel.

Any suggestions?

I just had a 5LNB and hd20 box installed in my home yesterday. HD looks fantastic on my Westinghouse w4207 and regular Digital looks alright, or as good as can be expected. Ive been browsing through this enormous thread so my apologies if this question has already been answered.

Do people leave the display option on the H20 to strech crop or pillar? As in leaving the reciever ( H20 box ) to do the work or do people just turn that off and have regular channels display as 4:3 and use their tvs settings to stretch them as they see fit?

Im quiet familiar with my TVs functions so when the Installer was setting up the h20 he turned on the scaling and such on the actual reciever, so regular content fills the screen. It looks a bit strange but I am unsure if this is the best way to represent the source content. I tried playing with it a bit yesterday and turning it off, the display button the remote cycles through 'Native Crop, Native Stretch, Native Pillar'. I left it on Native Stretch, unsure what it really did. I know as I browsed channels it changed acording to the channels res ( confirmed by going to a HD channel then a regular one ). Any headsup would be appreciated, thank you so much!

-Emerson

PS - Any clarifications needed just give me a follow up, again thank you!

Ive been browsing through this enormous thread so my apologies if this question has already been answered.

Use the HD20 or the display "stretch" mode you prefer to see.

Setting the HD20 to native will slow down channel surfing, if that's a factor of yours.

I set my HD20 to always output 1080i and then let my 738 line display deal with it, but its strickly a preference thing IMHO.

I've used both the component and HDMI interface and prefer this setting regardless.

ColdCase - if your display is native 720p, you may want to change your HD20 to output 720p only, to eliminate double formatting when a native 720p signal is being sent. Seems what you are doing now is passing 1080i to you set all the time, and then allowing your set to rez it down to 720p - in some cases that would a double hit on signal conversion. I just recently did this with mine, when I realized what I was doing, but, truthfully, I saw no real difference.

ColdCase - if your display is native 720p, you may want to change your HD20 to output 720p only, to eliminate double formatting when a native 720p signal is being sent.

Thanks Jeff. I agree that each system is different and you need to select the configuration that works best for each. I've tried a number of settings.

The plasma display is native 738 lines. For those shows that are really 1080 lines (some OTA) and I set the HD20 to 720, many lines would get thrown away in the HD20 and then a few are recreated in the display, so there is a loss. Seems small but there is a difference in PQ of these devices. From channel to channel the PQ on my plasma looks better most of the time and never worse when the HD20 is set to always output 1080i versus any of the other settings. Don't know why. Makes it simple for me and works for some others.

Mileage does varry.

it took me about 2 weeks reading the postings on this thread and couldnt find help :(

once in awhile i get the black screen and the message on the bottom telling me i need to insert an acces card with the 7xx code. then like 3 seconds later it goes back to normal. it has done it like 3 times since i got it about 3 weeks ago. should i just call D* to get a new one??


thanks.

Coldcase - that's interesting. I have read that it is in theory a better quality picture to downrez 1080i to 720p, than it is to go in the reverse. I really have no idea. On my 35" LCD's it seems 6 of one and a half dozen of another. My only big screen, 65" is native 1080i, it will not do 720p, so I have no choice there.

On my Sony 1080P 40XBR2 the "full pixel display" (which eliminates all overscan) option requires an input of 1080i or 1080P. Thus I leave my HR20 on fixed 1080i output.

I have tried a few times now to use autotune to record to my vcr. It would appear that if the H20 is off, it cancels the autotune. Anyone else think this is dumb?

I would expect the unit to turn on, tune to the station for the selected period, and then turn back off. Looks like if I want to record, I'll have to leave the unit on (I know it's really always on anyway).

It's bad enough they don't include an IR blaster to control a VCR, they went one step beyond. They must really want that extra $7 a month for a DVR...

Hey koolaid guy,
it sounds like your access card is either going bad or is dirty. Pull it out of the slot and clean the gold tabs gently. The re-insert. If the problem continues call 1800 directv and tell them you believe you have a bad access card. They will fed ex a new one to you.

I have tried a few times now to use autotune to record to my vcr. It would appear that if the H20 is off, it cancels the autotune. Anyone else think this is dumb?

I would expect the unit to turn on, tune to the station for the selected period, and then turn back off. Looks like if I want to record, I'll have to leave the unit on (I know it's really always on anyway).

It's bad enough they don't include an IR blaster to control a VCR, they went one step beyond. They must really want that extra $7 a month for a DVR...


Autotune is totally screwed up and only marginally useful. If you time something for 8p and you don't turn on you set till 8:01 it is completely erased. The only way to tape something on your VCR is to leave the HD20 on all the time. The other problem is if you program for Monday the HD 20 sets the program for Sunday (always a day earlier).

You can work around most of the HD20's faults but it is annoying and makes cable TV seem more and more like a bargain.

Autotune is totally screwed up and only marginally useful. If you time something for 8p and you don't turn on you set till 8:01 it is completely erased. The only way to tape something on your VCR is to leave the HD20 on all the time. The other problem is if you program for Monday the HD 20 sets the program for Sunday (always a day earlier).

You can work around most of the HD20's faults but it is annoying and makes cable TV seem more and more like a bargain.

While I'm not ready to go back to cable, I am frustrated with this "glitch." Both of my old HD receivers (Sony HD-100 and Samsung ST-360) had one button record and IR blasters for VCR control. You simply pointed at the future program and pressed select, then select again to confirm and that was it. The unit would turn on a little before the programmed time, turn on the VCR, start it recording, stop it at the end, turn off the VCR, and then turn itself off.

I understand why the DVR versions do not have the IR blaster and one button record, but the only reason I think the H20 is lacking these things is to raise the frustration level in the user to the point they order the DVR unit. That will NOT happen with me. I refuse to pay an additional monthly fee when I record so little. Mainly, I record the GP motorcycle race each weekend during the season and only occasionally something else. Not worth going to the DVR which has it's own set of problems (especially if the user had TIVO first).

/rant...

Autotune is totally screwed up and only marginally useful. If you time something for 8p and you don't turn on you set till 8:01 it is completely erased. The only way to tape something on your VCR is to leave the HD20 on all the time. The other problem is if you program for Monday the HD 20 sets the program for Sunday (always a day earlier).

Autotune works perfectly on the H20-100 model. You don't even need to leave it on for it to work...just one of the many benefits of the -100 over the overheating, glitchy -600s. I had the -600 for several months before it crapped out on me, and Directv replaced it with a brand new -100 -- and presto, no more Autotune or overheating or resetting issues :)

I have found the H20 menu system (the guide) to be very fast.

Gad, I want some of your medicine..... Compared to what ? I have been with DirecTV for 8 years now, and I think my H20's are slower than molasses in RudeYork in January.....

I have found the H20 menu system (the guide) to be very fast.

I have found the H20 menu system (the guide) to be very fast.

Really??? I have owned 7 different Sat receivers including 4 different HD models, all were faster than the "new" H20. Just because the manual says the guide is fast doesn't make is so...

What receiver have you owned that had a slower guide than this one?

hi guys I have had the h-20 for a while now it is on a tv that is hardly used when I try to use it I get waves going through the tv from top to bottom. I have tried it on 2 different tv's with the same result. When I tried using the composite out it stopped it is only happening with the component out. I ran a test on the reciever from the munu and it says that tuner 2 failed. I dunno if that is related or not. Any ideas on what to do?

I've seen it happen when the cables connect the box to the TV are too long, or poor quality.

Same here with my Toshiba CRT RPTV. If the contrast is set correctly burn-in should not be a problem. But too many TVs are set in "torch mode" from the factory, the contrast is much too high....

I thought burn-in was mainly a concern of a plasma TV. How can a projection TV burn in? Just curious.

Really??? I have owned 7 different Sat receivers including 4 different HD models, all were faster than the "new" H20. Just because the manual says the guide is fast doesn't make is so...

What receiver have you owned that had a slower guide than this one?

Not sure...it was a plastic piece of turd though. Basic free reciever. It honestly took a full second or more for the guide to respond to my remote commands. The H20 is close to instant. Very noticeably faster than the previous reciver I had. I guess I don't know what I am missing if the H20 is really slow!

Really??? I have owned 7 different Sat receivers including 4 different HD models, all were faster than the "new" H20. Just because the manual says the guide is fast doesn't make is so...

What receiver have you owned that had a slower guide than this one?

The guide in the H20-100 is amazingly fast and just as quick to navigate thru as a standard Directv receiver. Maybe that's the model he has?

The guide in the H20-600 is every bit as slow as you describe. Like I wrote above, there are a lot of advantages to the 100 version of the H20 and the guide is one of the obvious ones.

--- SNIP ---
Do people leave the display option on the H20 to strech crop or pillar? As in leaving the reciever ( H20 box ) to do the work or do people just turn that off and have regular channels display as 4:3 and use their tvs settings to stretch them as they see fit?
--- SNIP ---
-Emerson

PS - Any clarifications needed just give me a follow up, again thank you!I have my H20 set to "Native: Off, Screen Format: Pillar Box". My LCD TV Aspect Ratio is set to "Set by Program". This gives me the correct 4:3 ratio picture for SDTV signals and 16:9 for HDTV signals. Using any of the other modes results in an unsatisfactory picture (distorted in one way or another, and somewhat "fuzzy").

The guide in the H20-100 is amazingly fast and just as quick to navigate thru as a standard Directv receiver. Maybe that's the model he has?

The guide in the H20-600 is every bit as slow as you describe. Like I wrote above, there are a lot of advantages to the 100 version of the H20 and the guide is one of the obvious ones.

I do have the H20-100 model.

Like others posting in this thread for the first time, I haven't gone through all 4,000+ posts, but I have done some searching, and it sounds like in general there are known issues with the H20 similar to what is happening to me.

I have (2) H20's (the one I'm having a problem with is a -600, not sure about the other), and (2) HR20's. The H20 in the kitchen is the one with the issue. While watching, the unit randomly reboots. Doesn't matter what I'm watching, what time, or anything, it just goes to a black screen, then 30 seconds later goes through the 5 minute reboot process. It is hooked up via component to a 13" LCD. I've tried unplugging it after it shuts off, and plugging it back in - sometimes it will reboot again after that, sometimes it doesn't.

So I call D*. First lady I spoke with said, after going through some basic troubleshooting questions, that this is a known issue, and that a replacement is recommended, however she didn't have the authorization to do so, and that I would need to speak with a level 2 tech. Fine. Get transferred to this other lady, who puts me through the same basic troubleshooting tests. We then go through the system test, everything is ok, and then the signal strength tests. On 101, my signals ranged from low 60's to 100, with the average I'd say around 75. She said several times that it seemed low. She stated that a low signal strength can cause the unit to reboot, and she thought that the problem was that the multi-switch was going bad. I told her that I don't have this problem on any other receiver, just this one. She insists that only certain ports on the multi-switch will go bad at a time, and eventually they will all be bad.

So, I tell her I want to read off the signal strengths on my other H20. Roughly the same numbers, averaging around 75, with about 8-10 60-69 readings. She says "ooh, looks like those ports are starting to be affected too." Ok. I then tell her I want to look at the readings on my HR20's. All of the readings on both HR20's range from 88-100. "Yea" she says, "looks like those ports haven't been affected yet." For real? It's just a coincidence that the 4 ports that "aren't affected" go to my HR20's, and the 2 ports that are go to my H20's? I then tell her that the previous woman said that this is a known issue, and that a replacement was recommended. She says "Yea, I don't know how long that one has been with us. She shouldn't say those things without doing more research."

So, she set up March 7th for a tech to come out and replace the multi-switch. Am I crazy by thinking that this will do nothing, and that in fact the problem lies with the receiver, and not the multi-switch? I have the AT9 dish and Zinwell multi-switch, which I have had for about a year. I mean, how many parts can really go bad on a passive multi-switch? (there's no power on those, right?) Should I call back to a different CSR and explain things and hopefully come to a different conclusion?

Thanks for any advice. If her solution is really going to fix things, then great, but I don't want to waste time with this multi-switch swap if it doesn't fix anything. Come to think of it, we never talked about costs - I'm not expecting to pay anything for this service call.

Matt

Yeez, what a classic. This sounds like a heat issue to me - do you have these things in a cabinet (especially if this is a -600) ? 600's run hot, I keep mine out in the open, unobstructed. You can always go up and swap your cables around on the multi-switch just to prove a point, then call them back, while hoping for a better CSR.

I had them also schedule a service tech to come out and fix something, they ended up charging me $ 75 dollars service charge on my next bill. I was never informed about the charge till I saw my statement in the mail. After arguing, they removed the costs. they recommended that i get the monthly service plan to avoid the problem next time.

Thanks for any advice. If her solution is really going to fix things, then great, but I don't want to waste time with this multi-switch swap if it doesn't fix anything. Come to think of it, we never talked about costs - I'm not expecting to pay anything for this service call.

Matt

I will be very surprised if you need a new multiswitch. One of my H20-600s experienced the same symptoms you are describing. I called told them the top of the unit was hot, that it was rebooting very frequently regardless of whether I was receiving SAT or OTA channels. They sent me a replacement in two days and it has worked fine ever since.

As you probably know, it is normal for the H20 signal meter to read relatively low compared to other receivers. As another poster mentioned, you could swap cables at the multiswitch to see if your problems are solved. If they are not, call back and tell them what you have done and that you noticed the H20s are very warm on top. They will likely replace it for you then.

Best wishes,
Jeff

HD 20 the final insult

I thought when you bought your HD20 you actually got title to something - WRONG! Whatever you paid only allows you to LEASE the HD20 for a year then give it back to D*. I guess the good news is when it craps out you don't have to try to get it fixed. And you've become sadder and wiser of the ways of D*.

NEED HELP!

I just purchased an ONKYO TX-SR804 receiver and I want to control my DirecTV H20-100 with the Onkyo's remote. All IR codes supplied by ONKYO do not work. I noticed they are all 4-digit codes while all codes listed in the H20's menus are 5-digit. Can someone please help me find the correct code to use! Thanks.

Being that The h20 is 1080i, and my tv is 1080p, how good of picture quality could I expect from this set-up?

Thanks JeffBowser, snagy, and Burl. I am going to spend some time tonight and switch around the cables on the multi-switch to hopefully de-bunk her theory, and then give them a call back.

Matt

Thanks JeffBowser, snagy, and Burl. I am going to spend some time tonight and switch around the cables on the multi-switch to hopefully de-bunk her theory, and then give them a call back.
Matt
Having "been there", I think going to the multi-switch is a waste of time.The software in both the -100 & -600 needs an update to show the "correct" power for the transponders. Hell the -100 & -600 fail different SATs in system test when connected to the same dish.
The -600 will reboot if it gets too warm. This is a known issue [to anyone that has one]. Keeping it out in the open air is good. Raising it up so the air can get in from underneath is good too. Adding a fan has helped. The -100 has fewer chips & runs cooler. This is the only one that can be put inside a cabinet.
Does anybody still believe what they hear from D*?
The CSRs are for changing your account, sending out replacements, etc. Come to this forum or others if you need help since there are many more "right answers" here than what you will get from D*.
If you have any doubt: call D* twice & ask the same question, you will get at least two different answers. I've "pushed" a question all the way up to tier #2 support's supervisor and been given the wrong answer. FWIW

I thought burn-in was mainly a concern of a plasma TV. How can a projection TV burn in? Just curious.

It's a CRT rear projection TV. You get burn-in on the CRTs.

It's a CRT rear projection TV. You get burn-in on the CRTs.
How?
Very easy: watch HD programing that is in 4:3 format. I "lost" my Sony RPTV this way & Sony doesn't have a replacement Blue CRT, so it is "unrepairable" after only 3 1/3 years in use. Can you guess there isn't a happy camper here.

There is a "Beta" release for the H-20 NON DVR tonight and tomorrow night per Earl at DBSTalk...you need to force the release via the 02468 download method...PLEASE NOTE
it comes with a very strong CAVEAT...this release will enable the interactive features of
the H-20..............
http://www.dbstalk.com/showpost.php?p=854967&postcount=1

There is a "Beta" release for the H-20 NON DVR tonight and tomorrow night per Earl at DBSTalk...you need to force the release via the 02468 download method...PLEASE NOTE
it comes with a very strong CAVEAT...this release will enable the interactive features of
the H-20..............
http://www.dbstalk.com/showpost.php?p=854967&postcount=1
This is a one-way download. Unlike many HR-20 downloads for testing, THIS ONE could disable your H20. TRY AT YOU OWN RISK. D* will replace your unit if it "bricks", but be aware....

How?
Very easy: watch HD programing that is in 4:3 format. I "lost" my Sony RPTV this way & Sony doesn't have a replacement Blue CRT, so it is "unrepairable" after only 3 1/3 years in use. Can you guess there isn't a happy camper here.

Interesting...didn't know it was a problem on CRTs. I was paranoid with it on my plasma at first, but now it doesn't even cross my mind anymore.

Overall, How is the H20-100 and H20-600 compared to the H10-200, sorry if this question is out of place, but I need to know because I may replace it because of multipath conditions.

Thanks

Overall, How is the H20-100 and H20-600 compared to the H10-200, sorry if this question is out of place, but I need to know because I may replace it because of multipath conditions.
Thanks
If you can't resolve your multi-path issues another way [rotate antenna, etc.], then you most definitely want the H20-600 over the -100. The tuner is one of the best for this problem.

Interesting...didn't know it was a problem on CRTs. I was paranoid with it on my plasma at first, but now it doesn't even cross my mind anymore.
It doesn't matter if it's hit with a beam [CRT] or a plasma, phosphors can burn [in/out], if not evenly "aged".

Ok, Thanks

The -600 will reboot if it gets too warm. This is a known issue [to anyone that has one]. Keeping it out in the open air is good. Raising it up so the air can get in from underneath is good too. Adding a fan has helped. The -100 has fewer chips & runs cooler. This is the only one that can be put inside a cabinet.

Well, the multi-switch is definitely not the problem. I do have the unit in a cabinet, so it sounds like that's my problem. I was hoping my other H20 was a -100, but it's a -600 as well. So what do I do? I really need to keep this unit hidden. Can I call D* back, tell them I've tried the multi-switch solution, still have the same problem, and see if they send me a new one? Would a new one be a -100 or -600? Or something else? Can I request a -100?

Any other ideas?

Thanks,
Matt

Well, the multi-switch is definitely not the problem. I do have the unit in a cabinet, so it sounds like that's my problem. I was hoping my other H20 was a -100, but it's a -600 as well. So what do I do? I really need to keep this unit hidden. Can I call D* back, tell them I've tried the multi-switch solution, still have the same problem, and see if they send me a new one? Would a new one be a -100 or -600? Or something else? Can I request a -100?
Any other ideas?
Thanks,
Matt
I think when it gets above 125 degrees it reboots.
You need to increase air flow. Can you open up the back of where it is? Add a fan?
Some have posted about using the targus pad: http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=4216991
Trying to get a -100 from D* is a crap shoot as they can't pick which model they send out. It's just what comes off the shelf at the time.

I'd suggest you call them, tell them you eliminated the multi-switch as a potential source of the problem, that the box is rebooting frequently, and that the box feels hot. My experience on my previous unit, once it started rebooting, was that even with a large fan blowing directly through the unit it continued to reboot. I think the damage was already done by that time.

Jeff

I'd suggest you call them, tell them you eliminated the multi-switch as a potential source of the problem, that the box is rebooting frequently, and that the box feels hot. My experience on my previous unit, once it started rebooting, was that even with a large fan blowing directly through the unit it continued to reboot. I think the damage was already done by that time.
Jeff
Could be, might not be.
I agree that damage might be a cause, but the "reboot" seems to happen before [in most cases]. YMMV

Being that The h20 is 1080i, and my tv is 1080p, how good of picture quality could I expect from this set-up?

Your TV should accept 1080i and deinterlace it to 1080p if required by the display technology. The PQ should be the same regardless, although some TVs have quirks.

{delete}

see http://www.hdtvgalaxy.com/whatson.php for listing of current HDTV brodacast and their resolutions

So check it out - I call back yesterday, tell the CSR the problem, and that I've tried the multi-switch port swap (although I didn't ;)), and that I'm still having the reboot issue. No kidding, within 1 minute, she was shipping a new box to me @ $0.00, no problem. Unbelieveable. So now, when I get the new one, maybe I should try that Targus cooling pad? Anyone know how loud it is? It's basically going in a kitchen cupboard, right above an under the cabinet mount LCD.

Thanks for the help.

Matt

I think very few programs are actually distributed in 1080, most HD programs are distributed with 720 lines resolution.CBS, NBC and (not ABC) are 1080i as are most HD specific channels like HDNet, Discovery HD, Universal HD etc.. ABC, ESPN and Fox are 720p. Set the H20 to Native on and watch the resolution light to check.

I stuck ABC in twice by mistake. Sorry.

CBS, NBC and ABC are 1080i as are most HD specific channels like HDNet, Discovery HD, Universal HD etc.. ABC, ESPN and Fox are 720p. Set the H20 to Native on and watch the resolution light to check.
I [truly] dare to correct you [you do know about what you're posting], but ABC is 720p, or at least where I am. :)

Here is an interesting little anomaly with the D*TV Guide. I have both an H20-600 and an H20-100. When my daughter was using the D*TV Guide, she came across a program Curious George. However, on the H20-600, the Guide entry was displayed as "Curioue". However, on the H20-100, it was "Curious". To see if this was symptomatic, I looked for other Guide entries that ended in "ious" and found the word "Serious". True to form, on the H20-600 is was shown on the Guide as "Serioue," while on the H2-100 is was spelled correctly.

This is certainly not a debilitating problem -- and I don't care if it is fixed or not. But is was just an interesting anomaly. Anyone else see this? Any idea why this Guide spelling problem just shows up on the H20-600, but on on the H20-100. Just curioue. :)

I [truly] dare to correct you [you do know about what you're posting], but ABC is 720p, or at least where I am. :)

In Austin TX, the powers that be (aka the home office ;) ) has told the local station to upconvert ABC's 720p to 1080i, reason given is that it's the best resolution.

In Austin TX, the powers that be (aka the home office ;) ) has told the local station to upconvert ABC's 720p to 1080i, reason given is that it's the best resolution.


ABC here in Dallas (WFAA) is also transmitting 1080i not 720p. WFAA and KVUE, the ABC station in Austin, are both owned by the Belo Corporation.
As are WHAS in Louisville and WVEC Hampton/Norfolk, but I don't know if they also are transmitting 1080i.

I mistakenly put ABC in twice. There are local variations where the local station converts. My PBS station converts national 1080i programming to 720p and runs 3 terribly compressed 480i subchannels. Still, there is more 1080i out there than 720p.

I called into D* to complain about the EI Superfan charge and we got on the topic of the interactive features for the H20. At this point, the CSRs in retention are giving a date of "middle of 2007" as the date for when the interactive features will be enabled on the H20. I know that over on the dbstalk site there was an opportunity to force a download for the H20 and get basically a beta release of the interactive feature.

I called into D* to complain about the EI Superfan charge and we got on the topic of the interactive features for the H20. At this point, the CSRs in retention are giving a date of "middle of 2007" as the date for when the interactive features will be enabled on the H20. I know that over on the dbstalk site there was an opportunity to force a download for the H20 and get basically a beta release of the interactive feature.

Yes, there was a 'beta' download available a couple of weeks ago, see DBSTalk for details. While the interactive feature was finally enabled, it did have a few major problems (depending on where you lived) and D*'s working on fixing those issues before doing another beta to guage the feedback. Hopefully they'll get those worked out in the next couple of weeks and it will go to general release soon after.

SD looks horrible at all settings, native on/off 480/720/1080 pillarbox. This is in to a Panny 9UK 720P plasma. Any hope at all? My wife is filing for divorce if food tv and her ABC soaps don't improve! :)

bob

ps: OTA antenna in to hr20 looks just as bad

SD looks horrible at all settings, native on/off 480/720/1080 pillarbox. This is in to a Panny 9UK 720P plasma. Any hope at all? My wife is filing for divorce if food tv and her ABC soaps don't improve! :)
bob
ps: OTA antenna in to hr20 looks just as bad
How are you connecting, or what are you using?
What is horrible [besides it looks like crap]?
Please give more details.

How are you connecting, or what are you using?
What is horrible [besides it looks like crap]?
Please give more details.

Horrible as in so soft, blurry, and out of focus looking that you want to grab your glasses even if you don't wear them! Especially Food network, Sci-Fi and locals, sat or OTA.


bob

Horrible as in so soft, blurry, and out of focus looking that you want to grab your glasses even if you don't wear them! Especially Food network, Sci-Fi and locals, sat or OTA.
bob
And what are using to connect with?
composite, S-video, component, HDMI?

And what are using to connect with?
composite, S-video, component, HDMI?


I've tried HDMI, Component, and composite. All about the same.


thx

bob

I've tried HDMI, Component, and composite. All about the same.

thx

bob
You didn’t mention how a standard DVD looks on your Panny plasma. If that looks good and sharp, then it’s the H20 otherwise it’s probably the Panny.

You didn’t mention how a standard DVD looks on your Panny plasma. If that looks good and sharp, then it’s the H20 otherwise it’s probably the Panny.


SD DVD's look from very good to AWESOME!

So do I try another hr20?


bob

SD DVD's look from very good to AWESOME!
So do I try another hr20?
bob
Time to go into the setup menu & see what resolutions you have checked in the boxes. From what it sounds like, the installer only checked 480 & you haven't selected 720 & 1080.
HDMI & component won't send out HD unless you've selected 720 & 1080 under resolution tab. Then the native on will work & with it off, you can change resolutions with the format button.

Time to go into the setup menu & see what resolutions you have checked in the boxes. From what it sounds like, the installer only checked 480 & you haven't selected 720 & 1080.
HDMI & component won't send out HD unless you've selected 720 & 1080 under resolution tab. Then the native on will work & with it off, you can change resolutions with the format button.


Sorry

HD looks great at 720 or 1080!


bob

Sorry
HD looks great at 720 or 1080!
SDTV on an HD TV Monitor should look pretty good. The larger the screen the worse it will look however. SDTV (NTSC) was meant to be viewed on much smaller screens than today’s sets, so imperfections and some smearing are bound to be noticed. Some TVs and STBs do a better job than others in up-scaling the 640X480 SDTV to 1080 or 720, a lot of pixels have to be artificially created. If, as you say “SD DVD's look from very good to AWESOME!” then SDTV should look almost as good. I’d suspect your H20 or HR20 box might have a problem.
Try setting the H20 to; NATIVE, STRETCHED and check all resolutions 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i. That works best for me. YMMV

Snuffy speaks the truth. Also, bear in mind, certain DirecTV channels seem more compressed that others. Combine that, with blowing the pic up on a big screen, and some of these channels will look downright ugly. However, I would not categorize ALL SD as looking bad, even on my 65". The locals seem to hold up pretty well.

I just tried to setup my second HR20-700 last night, and after it downloaded the last software and rebooted, it went to a black screen and that annoying little circle light just kept on spinning. Is this a common occurrence? I have DirecTV coming out Sunday for a service call, but I'm none to pleased at the moment.

So do I try another hr20?
I just tried to setup my second HR20-700 last night
I could have sworn the thread header said H20 (HD Receiver), not HR20(HD DVR) :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Snuffy speaks the truth. Also, bear in mind, certain DirecTV channels seem more compressed that others. Combine that, with blowing the pic up on a big screen, and some of these channels will look downright ugly. However, I would not categorize ALL SD as looking bad, even on my 65". The locals seem to hold up pretty well.


True,

Food and sci-fi ( the ones we like) are pretty ugly. Amazing race recorded OTA (sd) looked pretty darned decent last night.

bob

any reason why my H20 has been "aquiring guide data" 4 times a day or so? Sometimes it does it up to about 30%, then cuts right back to TV...not sure what is going on.

New H20.. A couple of questions (I've looked through a few hundred posts already)... I have a Westinghouse 40" 720 LCD LTV-40w1 HDC (built-in DVD).. If anyone can help... I'm using an HDMI cable

1. If I have the H20 set up for 1080i Stretch on SD programs and my TV set to Normal, then I notice a line of flickering pixels on the top of the screen. If I change my TV to FILL mode (it's built-in verison of stretch), then this goes away, but I'm assuming the picture is being mangled 2x by this. Any idea what this line of flickering pixels is? Is this a TV or H20 problem? I don't think I can just use Fill/Stretch on my TV without the H20, because the H20 puts gray bars on programming if I select Pillar on the H20.

2. Is there any way of getting rid of the filter screen when hitting guide on the H20? Ugh! that's annoying...

Why in the world would anyone stretch an already compromised SD signal ??

bob

New H20.. A couple of questions (I've looked through a few hundred posts already)... I have a Westinghouse 40" 720 LCD LTV-40w1 HDC (built-in DVD).. If anyone can help... I'm using an HDMI cable
1. If I have the H20 set up for 1080i Stretch on SD programs and my TV set to Normal, then I notice a line of flickering pixels on the top of the screen. If I change my TV to FILL mode (it's built-in verison of stretch), then this goes away, but I'm assuming the picture is being mangled 2x by this. Any idea what this line of flickering pixels is? Is this a TV or H20 problem? I don't think I can just use Fill/Stretch on my TV without the H20, because the H20 puts gray bars on programming if I select Pillar on the H20.
2. Is there any way of getting rid of the filter screen when hitting guide on the H20? Ugh! that's annoying...
Look in your TV settings. You should be able to pick an adjustment that "clips" that image. When I set my Sony to full pixels I see it. If I pick one of the other settings that "overscan" a bit it goes away.
What you're seeing is "the full image" sent from the broadcaster, that most displays don't show normally.
As for the "one press" guide, no yet. There needs to be a software update. It has been fixed on the HR-20, but D* is still working on the update for the H20.

True,

Food and sci-fi ( the ones we like) are pretty ugly. Amazing race recorded OTA (sd) looked pretty darned decent last night.

bobIMHO, those are the 2 that really do need to be in HD...

Why in the world would anyone stretch an already compromised SD signal ??

bob

Because some of us don't want to ruin yet another TV. :( I managed to burn in the bars on my 55" rear projection Mitsu when I stopped stretching the picture...

Because some of us don't want to ruin yet another TV. :( I managed to burn in the bars on my 55" rear projection Mitsu when I stopped stretching the picture...

Good point :)


bob

New H20.. A couple of questions (I've looked through a few hundred posts already)... I have a Westinghouse 40" 720 LCD LTV-40w1 HDC (built-in DVD).. If anyone can help... I'm using an HDMI cable

1. If I have the H20 set up for 1080i Stretch on SD programs and my TV set to Normal, then I notice a line of flickering pixels on the top of the screen. If I change my TV to FILL mode (it's built-in verison of stretch), then this goes away, but I'm assuming the picture is being mangled 2x by this. Any idea what this line of flickering pixels is? Is this a TV or H20 problem? I don't think I can just use Fill/Stretch on my TV without the H20, because the H20 puts gray bars on programming if I select Pillar on the H20.

2. Is there any way of getting rid of the filter screen when hitting guide on the H20? Ugh! that's annoying...

Ok...for number 1... I played around some more...

-Component vs. HDMI doesn't seem to make a difference.
-This only seems to happen at 720p and 1080i
-If I turn on Native mode on the H20, and just stretch on my TV, then I don't see the flickering at the very top.
-If I turn off native and use either 720p stretch or 1080i stretch on the H20, and no Fill/Stretch on my TV then I see the flickering pixels.
-If I do the above and turn on Fill/Stretch on my TV, then I don't see the pixels but there is a some lost image because the image is stretched 2x. Then again, not sure if this 2x stretched image is the same as the Native mode image stretched 1x.

It seems like the H20 is introducing this. I have my 5 LNB dish being installed today, so I can see how the HD channels come in then. There doesn't seem to be any setting on my TV or the H20 to fix this, unless it is in some service menu.

Is it possible the H20 is defective? or the TV?

As for the "one press" guide, no yet. There needs to be a software update. It has been fixed on the HR-20, but D* is still working on the update for the H20.


How to do on the HR-20? Is there a HR-20 forum here?



bob

Ok...for number 1... I played around some more...
-Component vs. HDMI doesn't seem to make a difference.
-This only seems to happen at 720p and 1080i
-If I turn on Native mode on the H20, and just stretch on my TV, then I don't see the flickering at the very top.
-If I turn off native and use either 720p stretch or 1080i stretch on the H20, and no Fill/Stretch on my TV then I see the flickering pixels.
-If I do the above and turn on Fill/Stretch on my TV, then I don't see the pixels but there is a some lost image because the image is stretched 2x. Then again, not sure if this 2x stretched image is the same as the Native mode image stretched 1x.
It seems like the H20 is introducing this. I have my 5 LNB dish being installed today, so I can see how the HD channels come in then. There doesn't seem to be any setting on my TV or the H20 to fix this, unless it is in some service menu.
Is it possible the H20 is defective? or the TV?
I know what you're seeing. No your H20 isn't defective. I don't know your Westinghouse display settings, but my Sony has them just for this. If you have it set to see "all of the pixels, this is what you will see as it comes from the broadcaster in their signal.

How to do on the HR-20? Is there a HR-20 forum here? bob
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=704067&page=70&pp=30
or here: http://www.dbstalk.com/forumdisplay.php?f=112

The "one press guide" IIRC: on the front panel, press guide & then press both guide & info. release. Then exit with remote. press guide on remote should now take you to the guide grid.

I know what you're seeing. No your H20 isn't defective. I don't know your Westinghouse display settings, but my Sony has them just for this. If you have it set to see "all of the pixels, this is what you will see as it comes from the broadcaster in their signal.

I just called Westinghouse. They claim that it is being sent this way from Directv. They said that usually most Set Top Boxes have an adjustment to adjust the size/position of the image and that you can adjust out this line. They said there is no adjustment on the TV.

So.. is there any hidden adjustment on the H20? I played with the display position in the setup menu, but that doesn't help.

I just called Westinghouse. They claim that it is being sent this way from Directv. They said that usually most Set Top Boxes have an adjustment to adjust the size/position of the image and that you can adjust out this line. They said there is no adjustment on the TV.
So.. is there any hidden adjustment on the H20? I played with the display position in the setup menu, but that doesn't help.
As much as I would like there to be for you, not to my knowledge. Most TVs have the adjustment [for that matter most TVs overscan just a bit historically].
I don't want to "pee" on Westinghouse, or what you've bought, but they should have allowed for this in their design. IMO

It seems like the Fill/Stretch option on the westinghouse will do about 5% overscan when using an HD signal.

So the question is... on the H20.. is it better to do Native (480i and HD) and have the Westinghouse Stretch (and overscan).....

Or have the H20 do 720p (or 1080i? not sure which would be better) and then have the westy do overscan of 5%.

Does it even matter?

It seems like the Fill/Stretch option on the westinghouse will do about 5% overscan when using an HD signal.
So the question is... on the H20.. is it better to do Native (480i and HD) and have the Westinghouse Stretch (and overscan).....
Or have the H20 do 720p (or 1080i? not sure which would be better) and then have the westy do overscan of 5%.
Does it even matter?
The "bottom line" is do what looks best to you. I've written a novel as others have about the pros & cons on this and which way is "best".
Bottom line: what looks best to you with your equipment is best [for you].
http://www.dbstalk.com/showthread.php?t=81801

The "bottom line" is do what looks best to you. I've written a novel as others have about the pros & cons on this and which way is "best".
Bottom line: what looks best to you with your equipment is best [for you].


Got the HD dish installed today. Great picture... at least compared to what I'm used to.

I ended up checking all the conversion stuff and it doesn't seem to make a difference whether the Native or 1080i. If I have my TV set for Fill, the amount of image lost is the same... so I ended up leaving the H20 at 1080i and the TV at FILL, that way the H20 isn't changing the resolution on the TV when I switch channels. I guess Fill mode on the Westinghouse is OK. It seems to overscan with SD and get rid of the flickering. On HD channels, Fill doesn't seem to effect the picture.

Also... I noticed that 1080i looks slightly better to me then 720p on my TV. Although it could just be my mind playing tricks on me.

Although it could just be my mind playing tricks on me.
Which could be why "what looks best for you" as there is a technical side & a physiological part of the "equation".

Does anyone know how to get the caller ID feature working? I do have caller ID with my phone company, but the pop up window simply states that an 'incoming call' has been detected, but no name...!

Can this be turned off when recording? At the moment, the pop up window is recorded if activated during a recording....most annoying..

Thanks

Does anyone know how to get the caller ID feature working? I do have caller ID with my phone company, but the pop up window simply states that an 'incoming call' has been detected, but no name...!

Can this be turned off when recording? At the moment, the pop up window is recorded if activated during a recording....most annoying..

Thanks
You could always just unplug the phone line :rolleyes: I've never hooked a phone line to any of my D* STBs and I get along just fine. I find caller ID....most annoying...!

Thanks Snuffy, I suppose I could unplug it, but it's very convenient for ordering PPV and D* seem to like the fact that you have a phone connected to keep everything on the level. I wonder if it's because I have a 'virtual' phone jack plugged into the H20? (it's one of those box's that use your house power wiring if you haven't got a phone jack close by).
I think I'll run a looooong phone cable to a 'real' jack just to find out....unless anybody knows for sure that this is not neccessary....?

Thanks

Thanks Snuffy, I suppose I could unplug it, but it's very convenient for ordering PPV and D* seem to like the fact that you have a phone connected to keep everything on the level. I wonder if it's because I have a 'virtual' phone jack plugged into the H20? (it's one of those box's that use your house power wiring if you haven't got a phone jack close by).
I think I'll run a looooong phone cable to a 'real' jack just to find out....unless anybody knows for sure that this is not neccessary....?

Thanks

I have read (I think on this site) that caller ID does not work properly through the virtual boxes. I have 2 H20 receivers, both connected to regular wired jacks and caller ID works properly on both.

I have read (I think on this site) that caller ID does not work properly through the virtual boxes. I have 2 H20 receivers, both connected to regular wired jacks and caller ID works properly on both.


Thanks Roger, I have just got home and will try it now. Post later....

Pete

Thanks Roger, I have just got home and will try it now. Post later....

Pete

Just remembered where I read this, in the manual (of all places). Here is the quote:

If you are plugging your receiver to a wireless phone jack, note that it typically does not transmit Caller ID
information and you may need a special wireless phone jack to use with Caller ID service. See the user’s manual
that came with the wireless phone jack to see if it transmits Caller ID information. If it doesn’t, either connect the
phone line directly to a standard wall-mount phone jack or install a wireless phone jack that transmits Caller ID
information.

Does that describe your module?

Just remembered where I read this, in the manual (of all places). Here is the quote:



Does that describe your module?


I wouldn't call it 'wireless' as it plugs into the house mains wiring at one end, and the phone jack at the other, although the same rules probably apply anyway. Didn't get a chance to hook up a longer cable yet to find out, but will post as soon as I can.

Yup, that was it. I have an RCA RC926 Wireless Phone Jack (although not 'wireless' as it uses your house wiring but essentially the same result) and it does not transmit caller ID data. When I plugged the H20 into a standard phone jack using a looong cable (which is why I used the RCA in the first place) the caller ID feature worked okay.

Hope this helps others...........

Pete

Yup, that was it. I have an RCA RC926 Wireless Phone Jack (although not 'wireless' as it uses your house wiring but essentially the same result) and it does not transmit caller ID data. When I plugged the H20 into a standard phone jack using a looong cable (which is why I used the RCA in the first place) the caller ID feature worked okay.

Hope this helps others...........

Pete

Thanks for posting the info back for others.

From the RC926 Manual:

• Do not plug phone jacks into power strips or surge protectors.
• Extension phone jack does not operate during a power outage.
• Phone Jack System can only be used for one phone line.
• Phone Jack System does not operate with caller ID Phones.
• Be sure to plug Base unit (two jacks on side) in first before
Extension unit (one jack on side).
• If you cannot get a dial tone, unplug both phone jacks and reset
units following the section titled “Trouble Shooting”on page 7.
• It is very important that directions are followed in order. In the
event of a problem unplug both units, remove all cords and start
a g a i n .

There you go - pay's to read the manuals even on 'simple' equipment. Appreciate the post Roger......

The only complaint I have about my H20 is occasionally, when it's first turned on, there's no sound & I must up-plug/re-plug the HDMI connection. After that it's fine.
I cannot get the 02468 to force a download, but, perhaps I'm missing something. My last software update was in July 2006.

I just came upon an interesting situation that makes no sense. I recentlyu got an HR-20 and placed it where I had the H20-600. I moved the H20 to another room and hooked up via HDMI to a Sharp Aquos 32" LCD TV. When set to native on I get video when going to a channel that's 720p or 1080i, but no video on any channel that's 480i, just audio. No problem when it was hooked up to other TV (SONY SXRD) via HDMI. Using component connection I get video from all sources on the Sharp, just not HDMI. I made sure settings on tv were correct. If I turn native off, and cycle through formats, if I'm on a channel that's in 480i, when going through 780p or 1080i I will get video on those channels (H20 doing the conversion), but when cycling back to 480i no video. Has anyone else seen this before? I even have an extra H20 that I tried, same results. The only thing I've seen on screen is "you have attached an incompatible source"

I just came upon an interesting situation that makes no sense. I recentlyu got an HR-20 and placed it where I had the H20-600. I moved the H20 to another room and hooked up via HDMI to a Sharp Aquos 32" LCD TV. When set to native on I get video when going to a channel that's 720p or 1080i, but no video on any channel that's 480i, just audio. No problem when it was hooked up to other TV (SONY SXRD) via HDMI. Using component connection I get video from all sources on the Sharp, just not HDMI. I made sure settings on tv were correct. If I turn native off, and cycle through formats, if I'm on a channel that's in 480i, when going through 780p or 1080i I will get video on those channels (H20 doing the conversion), but when cycling back to 480i no video. Has anyone else seen this before? I even have an extra H20 that I tried, same results. The only thing I've seen on screen is "you have attached an incompatible source"
Try 480p

The only complaint I have about my H20 is occasionally, when it's first turned on, there's no sound & I must up-plug/re-plug the HDMI connection. After that it's fine.
I cannot get the 02468 to force a download, but, perhaps I'm missing something. My last software update was in July 2006.
1) there is no new software to download.
2) try using IR mode for the remote.

Try 480p
There should be video no matter what format used. As I stated earlier, it worked fine through all cycles on Sony SXRD.

Hi,

New to the thread, but haven't read all 168 pages yet. I am sure this has been covered before, so pardon me for not finding this issue in the thread.

I'm currently experiencing low signal strength and a frequent partial to full freeze of my screen my local CBS channel during NCAA tourney broadcasts. I have a H20 connected to my projector that shows the following signal strengths:

A - 75
B - 60
C - 66

D* was out on a service call 2 days ago and made some tweeks that brought B and C up 5% each. Are there other products that can improve this signal or is it up to another service call from D*?

Thanks,
Max

There should be video no matter what format used. As I stated earlier, it worked fine through all cycles on Sony SXRD.
Yeah, it works on my TV too, but there have been reports that HDMI doesn't work on some TVs in 480i [as in the TV doesn't like 480i through HDMI] & using 480p does.
It's your TV & problem.
I only offered what "I've heard".
I don't hear you saying it DOESN'T work [480p].
I don't get paid by D*.
I offer ideas to help. Try them or not.

Hi,
New to the thread, but haven't read all 168 pages yet. I am sure this has been covered before, so pardon me for not finding this issue in the thread.
I'm currently experiencing low signal strength and a frequent partial to full freeze of my screen my local CBS channel during NCAA tourney broadcasts. I have a H20 connected to my projector that shows the following signal strengths:
A - 75
B - 60
C - 66
D* was out on a service call 2 days ago and made some tweeks that brought B and C up 5% each. Are there other products that can improve this signal or is it up to another service call from D*?
Thanks,
Max
Your HD locals come from either the 99 or 103 SAT. what you posted are A=101, B=119, C=110.
So was it CBS SD or HD?

I just came upon an interesting situation that makes no sense. I recentlyu got an HR-20 and placed it where I had the H20-600. I moved the H20 to another room and hooked up via HDMI to a Sharp Aquos 32" LCD TV. When set to native on I get video when going to a channel that's 720p or 1080i, but no video on any channel that's 480i, just audio. No problem when it was hooked up to other TV (SONY SXRD) via HDMI. Using component connection I get video from all sources on the Sharp, just not HDMI. I made sure settings on tv were correct. If I turn native off, and cycle through formats, if I'm on a channel that's in 480i, when going through 780p or 1080i I will get video on those channels (H20 doing the conversion), but when cycling back to 480i no video. Has anyone else seen this before? I even have an extra H20 that I tried, same results. The only thing I've seen on screen is "you have attached an incompatible source"
Yet another reason to use the Component connection rather than the flawed HDMI/HDCP mess. Sounds like your Sharp Aquos can’t make the secret handshake with the H20 :rolleyes: .

Your HD locals come from either the 99 or 103 SAT. what you posted are A=101, B=119, C=110.
So was it CBS SD or HD?

There are on SAT 103 and are CBS HD and were showing at 82 and 89% in 2 of 6. The others were at 0. So, 6 local HD channels are sharing (2) satellite positions.

D* is sending a 'Supervisor' Technician out this week to look at. Multi-Switch was replaced on last call, so they're going to look at other hardware to see if there is an issue.

Thanks,
Max

There are on SAT 103 and are CBS HD and were showing at 82 and 89% in 2 of 6. The others were at 0. So, 6 local HD channels are sharing (2) satellite positions.

D* is sending a 'Supervisor' Technician out this week to look at. Multi-Switch was replaced on last call, so they're going to look at other hardware to see if there is an issue.

Thanks,
Max

Hey Max, I have have the exact same situation except my sig levels are 64 and 66. What led to this was I r&r'ed a H20 and then couldn't receive any local HD. I called D* and they are sending out a tech to "Tighten up the antenna" (I hope she meant re-align better) Anyways, since your a few steps further down this path you have any helpful hints? I don't want to let the tech go only to find out later I missed something. They were able to get local HD but it pixelates and freezes like crazy. TIA

(Oh BTW, der lady said the levels had to be >72 to "see" HD <shrug>)

Robert

If the H20 ever got the software upgrade, it could give the same reading as with the HR-20 & you'd then kow how well your dish is aligned. With the HR-20 the local transponder should be 95+%.
Mine are 100% & ones for local 350+ miles away are 95% FWIW.

This is my first post, so if this has been discussed please forgive me, but there are too many posts to go through!

I seem to have a tough problem for the techs! Local HD channels only were pixilating and/or breaking up. I am located 50 miles north of Denver, so am well within that service area. A tech came out and replaced the LMB assembly, relocated the dish, checked out all cables, and peaked the signals. I have a 95 reading on the transponder (103 degree satellite, transponder 3 is where I think they told me the local HD channels were). He thought it must be the HR20, so I called and they sent me out another one. While waiting for it to come, I did a little trouble shooting to try and get a better idea of where the problem was, switching cables, etc. Here is what I found:

Satellite input 1 is the problem. It does it with either cable. If I remove input 1 and switch channels until it uses Satellite input 2, then it works fine. I found by selecting an HD channel I wasn't going to watch when it is breaking up, and setting that channel to record to "lock it" on Sat in 1, then the other 3 local HD channels work fine off of input 2.

I received a new receiver today and installed it, but have the same problem with it! This is the 3rd one, but I hadn't done the above debug with the first unit, only replaced it.

They are sending another tech out tomorrow, a senior one, with another new box, so it will be interesting to see what results he gets.

Looks to be a problem with input 1 on the HR20 to me, but don't know if it is cronic or with a build lot, or what. Anyone else ever see this problem?

Thanks,
Larry
Windsor, Colorado

This is my first post, so if this has been discussed please forgive me, but there are too many posts to go through!

I seem to have a tough problem for the techs! Local HD channels only were pixilating and/or breaking up. I am located 50 miles north of Denver, so am well within that service area. A tech came out and replaced the LMB assembly, relocated the dish, checked out all cables, and peaked the signals. I have a 95 reading on the transponder (103 degree satellite, transponder 3 is where I think they told me the local HD channels were). He thought it must be the HR20, so I called and they sent me out another one. While waiting for it to come, I did a little trouble shooting to try and get a better idea of where the problem was, switching cables, etc. Here is what I found:

Satellite input 1 is the problem. It does it with either cable. If I remove input 1 and switch channels until it uses Satellite input 2, then it works fine. I found by selecting an HD channel I wasn't going to watch when it is breaking up, and setting that channel to record to "lock it" on Sat in 1, then the other 3 local HD channels work fine off of input 2.

I received a new receiver today and installed it, but have the same problem with it! This is the 3rd one, but I hadn't done the above debug with the first unit, only replaced it.

They are sending another tech out tomorrow, a senior one, with another new box, so it will be interesting to see what results he gets.

Looks to be a problem with input 1 on the HR20 to me, but don't know if it is cronic or with a build lot, or what. Anyone else ever see this problem?

Thanks,
Larry
Windsor, Colorado
Step one you want to be here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10123185#post10123185
As that is the HR-20 forum & this is the H20 forum.
If you can get the signal by "tuning" the other tuner, it sure sounds like a cable to dish problem. Do you have a multi-switch?
Let's move this to where it belongs>>>>>>>>>>

Step one you want to be here: Was link to HR20 forum

As that is the HR-20 forum & this is the H20 forum.
If you can get the signal by "tuning" the other tuner, it sure sounds like a cable to dish problem. Do you have a multi-switch?
Let's move this to where it belongs>>>>>>>>>>

Sorry about that, didn't notice there was a different threads for HR-20. I re-posted there. I don't know about a multi-switch, there are 4 cables coming off the dish. One goes to an old Hughes receiver, one is open, and two go to the HR-20 It doesn't matter which of the two cables is on Sat in 1, it still doesn't work, but both work on sat in 2.

Thanks,
Larry

Hey Max, I have have the exact same situation except my sig levels are 64 and 66. What led to this was I r&r'ed a H20 and then couldn't receive any local HD. I called D* and they are sending out a tech to "Tighten up the antenna" (I hope she meant re-align better) Anyways, since your a few steps further down this path you have any helpful hints? I don't want to let the tech go only to find out later I missed something. They were able to get local HD but it pixelates and freezes like crazy. TIA

(Oh BTW, der lady said the levels had to be >72 to "see" HD <shrug>)

Robert

Hi Robert,

You might have your solution before mine. I've been out of town all week, so the tech isn't coming out until Friday AM. I'll post results after that.

Max

So I sit down to watch some HD TV last night and went to the guide to see whats playing and all the Sat HD channels are missing, only the OTA channels are there (my favorites were set to show HD channels only). I go to the favorites screen and sure enough all the sat channels are deselected. I've had this unit for maybe six months and this is the second time its done this... I think... another H20 feature, perhaps?

I went back and checked the HD channels, what a pain scanning though, what is it 500 channels now, just to pick out the dozen or so HD channels. Is there a feature I missed that will automatically set my favorites list to HD channels only? I searched this thread and didn't see anything relevant.

wonder if anybody else has had this happen to their H20 Directv receiver. I was cleaning around my TV and the stand. Both the HDTV and DirecTV H20-600 receiver were turned off. I lifted the unit to clean around it and underneath it, and when I did, I saw sparks coming from inside the receiver, and all of a sudden, smoke started coming out of the unit! I put the box down, and about one minute later, the H20 receiver started sparking again and more smoke started coming out. Needless to say, the unit is shot. I've had it for about 18 months, and it had worked fine up until it started smoking!
Called directv, and they sent me a refurbished H20-600 unit. But now I realize these units run hot the entire time, whether they are on or off. I'm just nervous about the potential for fire with one of these receivers. Should I just buy a separate HD off-air tuner and ditch directv altogether? Do the old Black colored Hughes standard definition receivers run hot like the H20's too?

wonder if anybody else has had this happen to their H20 Directv receiver. I was cleaning around my TV and the stand. Both the HDTV and DirecTV H20-600 receiver were turned off. I lifted the unit to clean around it and underneath it, and when I did, I saw sparks coming from inside the receiver, and all of a sudden, smoke started coming out of the unit! I put the box down, and about one minute later, the H20 receiver started sparking again and more smoke started coming out. Needless to say, the unit is shot. I've had it for about 18 months, and it had worked fine up until it started smoking!
Called directv, and they sent me a refurbished H20-600 unit. But now I realize these units run hot the entire time, whether they are on or off. I'm just nervous about the potential for fire with one of these receivers. Should I just buy a separate HD off-air tuner and ditch directv altogether? Do the old Black colored Hughes standard definition receivers run hot like the H20's too?
The H20-600 runs warm/hot. It needs a lot of air around it. The H20-100 doesn't. FWIW

I have a westinghouse 37m and had fox east and west. Upgraded to a h20 receiver to get fox ota. I kept my fox east/west a couple of days and cancelled it after knowing I could get my local ota. Within days I noticed I could no longer receive my local. My signal meter shows 80% and it shows channel briefly as I up down channel. The guide shows it there, but if I choose locals or hdtv it does not show it there. Called D* and they say it is my antenna. Can they block that channel. Please help.

My signal meter shows 80% and it shows channel briefly as I up down channel. The guide shows it there, but if I choose locals or hdtv it does not show it there.

When you select the channel via the guide or directly by the channel number, do you get a searching for signal notice or is it a blank screen? Have you tried rebooting the H20?

Has there been any changes lately that could affect the signal to your antenna, particularly multipath, like leaves on trees?

I don't think DIRECTV blocks OTA if you are not subscribed to their HD package. It is blocked if not subscribed to DIRECTV, but I think that's controlled at the receiver, i.e. if the receiver has not been activated it shuts off OTA.

I didn't think about the spring foliage coming into play. I will upgrade the antenna and check back.

Hey Max, I have have the exact same situation except my sig levels are 64 and 66. What led to this was I r&r'ed a H20 and then couldn't receive any local HD. I called D* and they are sending out a tech to "Tighten up the antenna" (I hope she meant re-align better) Anyways, since your a few steps further down this path you have any helpful hints? I don't want to let the tech go only to find out later I missed something. They were able to get local HD but it pixelates and freezes like crazy. TIA

(Oh BTW, der lady said the levels had to be >72 to "see" HD <shrug>)

Robert

Update: The D* tech came out last Friday and spent about an hour up on the roof. I watched the sig levels as he was futzing around. Saw the picture go in/out of sync. a few times etc. When he was done the minimum signal level I now have is 88%, most are well into the 90's.

I asked him what he did and he claimed all he did was add another brace to keep the dish from moving around....yeah right. (Don't ask me about D*'s subcontractor for our area, least that can be said is they suck- no shows and all that rot)

Anywhos, my PQ has definitely improved a lot and HD looks fantastic. But. There's something D* does every night at ~7:40 pm (Pacific). Every night I get about two or three quick picture blackouts. I can just about set my watch by them, no biggie just a tad annoying.

Robert

Hi, I'm new to forum. I tried searching for my topic, but was unable to find an answer, and I'm sure it's come up before. I just got a DirecTV h20 HD receiver and I'm having issues with the HDMI output. My pictures keeps dropping out every few seconds when I'm using HDMI, but there is no problem when I use component. I called DirecTV and they said this is a known issue and they are working on a software update for it. Can anyone else confirm this, or do they know when this issue will be resolved.

I have the H20 hooked up to a Samsung HL-S5087W DLP 1080p tv.

I've been trying to see if anyone has covered the topic of using both the HDMI and component output on the H20 to two tv's. Haven't been able to find it.

So... I want to use one box for two rooms-one is my upstairs gym, the other is my game room downstairs. I bought a 19" Sammy HD LCD and was playing around with it upstairs. I couldn't get a signal at first, so I had both component and HDMI hooked up. I was surprised that they both worked at the same time (I switched back and forth a few times to see what the picture difference was).

I don't plan on watching different programming in the two rooms, so that's why I don't need the extra box. The remote on the radio frequency will work fine to control the box. It's working now, but does anyone know of anything that would fowl this up? I plan on having two of the same type of tv hooked up to one box. I just want to make sure it will work fine before I order a 25 ft component/audio cable.

Thanks for your help!

Hi, I'm new to forum. I tried searching for my topic, but was unable to find an answer, and I'm sure it's come up before. I just got a DirecTV h20 HD receiver and I'm having issues with the HDMI output. My pictures keeps dropping out every few seconds when I'm using HDMI, but there is no problem when I use component. I called DirecTV and they said this is a known issue and they are working on a software update for it. Can anyone else confirm this, or do they know when this issue will be resolved.

I have the H20 hooked up to a Samsung HL-S5087W DLP 1080p tv.
Samsung has been known to be a "bug" with the HDMI. There is new software coming, but the last beta version crashed & burned pretty bad.

Samsung has been known to be a "bug" with the HDMI. There is new software coming, but the last beta version crashed & burned pretty bad.

My H20-600 wouldn't work on HDMI with a Sceptre that I had, replaced it with a Sony and it was OK. Moved the H20 to a Dell and it worked fine until I took the cutting edge test code and now the audio doesn't work if I take the H20 out of standby until the Dell has booted all the way up. Hopefully one day D* will get the HDMI interface working better on the next release.

My H20-600 wouldn't work on HDMI with a Sceptre that I had, replaced it with a Sony and it was OK. Moved the H20 to a Dell and it worked fine until I took the cutting edge test code and now the audio doesn't work if I take the H20 out of standby until the Dell has booted all the way up. Hopefully one day D* will get the HDMI interface working better on the next release.
That's been the only CE I "passed on" & it looks to have been a wise choice. Something about Earl's post that had me weary of it.

It's working now, but does anyone know of anything that would fowl this up?


It will work fine as the video outs are all active. Should DIRECTV choose to modify its software to activate only one selected output, then you may need to buy a $30 video distribution amp and connect both monitors via component. So its a low risk solution.

OT...can someone point me to the Official HR20 forum? Can't seem to find it and have some questions.

Thank you.

D* HR20 topic - AVS Forum http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=1&f=42

OT...can someone point me to the Official HR20 forum? Can't seem to find it and have some questions.

Thank you.
You might also want to check out this sites sister site for DBS info, www.dbstalk.com. There is a bunch of HR20 information over there plus you can get notifications as to when there are chances to download new software for the HR20 before they go into general distribution.

D* HR20 topic - AVS Forum http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=1&f=42
Thanks

You might also want to check out this sites sister site for DBS info, www.dbstalk.com. There is a bunch of HR20 information over there plus you can get notifications as to when there are chances to download new software for the HR20 before they go into general distribution....and thanks. Was just there before you responded. Looks like the RCA-made HR20-100 is being released.

Since the HR20 and H20 are fairly the same (software-wise), how's reliability, features and stabillity of D* DVR's? When I was looking at them about 18 months ago I heard allot of negative talk. Have they improved? How does it compare to TiVo Series-1 (still have a Sony DirecTivo: 7+ years and still chugggin' along)?

So I sit down to watch some HD TV last night and went to the guide to see whats playing and all the Sat HD channels are missing, only the OTA channels are there (my favorites were set to show HD channels only). I go to the favorites screen and sure enough all the sat channels are deselected. I've had this unit for maybe six months and this is the second time its done this... I think... another H20 feature, perhaps?

I went back and checked the HD channels, what a pain scanning though, what is it 500 channels now, just to pick out the dozen or so HD channels. Is there a feature I missed that will automatically set my favorites list to HD channels only? I searched this thread and didn't see anything relevant.
I've had the H20 for about 6 months and the same thing happened to me yesterday! :mad: Calling D*, just got the old "reset your box" line. For some reason D* does this over the sat when updating the pgm guide. I don't think this is a box problem but another part of D*s wonderful service ;)

Question about resolutions:

My Panasonic LCD rear projection TV supports 480p, 720p and 1080i and its native resolution is 720p.
Should I set my H20 to:

A) Native=off and chose resolution 720p only.
B) Native=on and chose resolution 720p and 1080i.

One more question... what’s the best way to display Standard Definition programs?

Thanks all.

I would set native off and 720p. I tried my native 720p sets at both of your options for 3 months each, and really did not notice a lot of differ, so I concluded it would be best to just output the TV's native resolution and be done with it. As for best way to display SD, pillar box looks best to me, although I don't mind stretch-o-vision as much as some others do. Be mindful of burn-in though. I recently (last Saturday) discovered some slight burn-in on my rear projection after using pillar boxes for years. Prior to that I was saying its not a problem. Guess it is, but it took 5 years to show up.

I would set native off and 720p. I tried my native 720p sets at both of your options for 3 months each, and really did not notice a lot of differ, so I concluded it would be best to just output the TV's native resolution and be done with it. As for best way to display SD, pillar box looks best to me, although I don't mind stretch-o-vision as much as some others do. Be mindful of burn-in though. I recently (last Saturday) discovered some slight burn-in on my rear projection after using pillar boxes for years. Prior to that I was saying its not a problem. Guess it is, but it took 5 years to show up.
LCD rear projection sets do not exhibit “burn-in”, only CRT or Plasma sets are subject to this malady.

Yeah, I used to have myself convinced of that as well. I'd invite you to see some LCD screens I have here in my offices that will very convincingly disabuse that notion.

Yeah, I used to have myself convinced of that as well. I'd invite you to see some LCD screens I have here in my offices that will very convincingly disabuse that notion.
LCD don't burn-in. There is an image retention that can be cured with some "exercising of the LCD elements".
Burn-in is due to phosphors "aging" [burning off]. The LCD element doesn't have anything to burn. The winding & unwinding of the crystal(s) is what the LCD does to change color. This is the part that gets "lazy" and can "look like" burn-in. Using full screen images of changing colors, will remove the retention.

Ah, very interesting. Thanks for that insight VOS. Now if there was only a cost effective cure for diminishing brightness, I'll have two dozens screens back in business

Ah, very interesting. Thanks for that insight VOS. Now if there was only a cost effective cure for diminishing brightness, I'll have two dozens screens back in business
as in the replacement bulbs ain't cheap?