I don't imagine this is specific to the H20, but rather the source.

Thoughts?

"Most likely".
There was a round of Mythbusters that had a problem, but didn't repeat.

I have also noticed the delay/lip-synch issue on some programs. I turned Dolby Digital off and it is better, not perfect. I now run without DD as I find the 5.1 encoding on some programs really terrible, variable volume and intermittent overpowering bass. My AVR decodes the surround sound present in most 2 channel streams almost as good as 5.1, YMMV.

I just noticed that D* is doing a staggered H20-100 FW update to 0x204C. Link: http://www.redh.com/dtv/index.php?r=H20
Looks like they are alternating between 2020 and 204C. Can I assume this means if you force the download, you have a 50-50 chance of getting the new one?
They are downloading 0x2042 exclusively now for the H20-600.

I just noticed that D* is doing a staggered H20-100 FW update to 0x204C. Link: http://www.redh.com/dtv/index.php?r=H20
Looks like they are alternating between 2020 and 204C. Can I assume this means if you force the download, you have a 50-50 chance of getting the new one?
They are downloading 0x2042 exclusively now for the H20-600.

Dumb question.....sorry :o. How do you force a download?

Dumb question.....sorry :o. How do you force a download?To force a download, restart the receiver and at the "Hello" screen press 0 2 4 6 8, it will take a few minutes. It will slow down around 99%, just be patient. I just tried it 4 times and still have 2021, so I guess I answered my own question, I'll have to wait for them to download it to me. :confused:

If you H20 folks are interested in assisting DirecTV test new versions of software, which has bug fixes and sometimes new features, check out this sites system DBS site and read up on the Cutting Edge section ( http://www.dbstalk.com/forumdisplay.php?f=118 you need to be a registered used (it's free) in order to access the CE section). Tonight both versions of the H20 have a cutting egde version schedule to be available for downloading.

PLEASE read the rules/regulations for the CE process at http://www.dbstalk.com/showthread.php?t=90847 before taking part of the program and don't do it if all you want is to get new features before the general public, testing and reporting issues is the reason for joining the process.

And DON'T CALL DirecTV with any issues, but post them on the DBSTalk CE forum, where you will get help.

I would take it one step at a time. Hook the H20 directly to your projector via HDMI and see what you get.

H20 direct to projector via HDMI has no problems. Video is crystal clear.
Seems to be a problem between Yamaha and H20. Before I give in and get a 25 ft component cable and run in behind the walls etc, anyone had any luck using the Monoprice HDMI switches in this set up?

Thks

Hi all,

I'm sure this question has been discussed before, but I can't seem to find answers specific to my confusion, so please forgive me if I've missed it...I really have searched.

Now can anyone clear up some serious confusion I have about resolution settings on my HR20?

I have a Panasonic 58" 1080p plasma (TH-58PZ700U) and am under the impression that the scaler in this unit must be superior to the one in the HR20...am I wrong here?

Anyway, if that is indeed the case then I would obviously want the Panny to handle all of the scaling "duties", correct? Ok, so here is where I get REALLY confused:

Do I set the HR20 to 1080i only with "native" set to off and "stretch" turned on? This is how I have the box currently set.

Or do make active all the resolution choices in the setup menu eg: 480i, 480p, 720i, 720p, 1080i ? If set this way, wouldn't my Panny take whatever native resolution I'm watching and then "upscale" it to 1080p which is it's native resolution? What I don't want to do is get into a situation where both the HR20 and the Panny are scaling, so I'm scaling twice.

Bottom line is I want the best scaling in the least amount of "up & down" conversion. Make sense?

Also, does the HR20 have a "pass thru" setting somewhere, if there is I can't seem to find it? By setting the HR20 only to 1080i, is this about as close to a pass thru setup I can get with this box?

Thanks very much and I apologize for the long post. Any and all input would be greatly appreciated!

Rob

For questions about the HD DVR go here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12383965&posted=1#post12383965
This is the NON DVR thread also known as the H20.

Is it possible to disable the interactive features of my H20? Specifically when I tune to any of the NFL Sunday Ticket channels a window appears on the screen with some gibberish about "press[ing] menu to clear" This is the opening to get to all the interactive NFL hoopla that D* is delivering, but I just use my laptop for stats, etc..., and I just want to watch the games without this crap popping up on my TV screen!!!

Thanks..I'm sorry I missed that. I'll post in the appropriate forum.

I just replaced my Sony HD300 receiver with the H20 because the satellite section of the receiver took a dump. The problem I notice is that the H20 doesn't fill the screen of my 100" screen. I have about a 1.5" black bar at the top of the screen with 1080i signals when the picture is setup to fill the screen edge to edge. The black bar is a little smaller with 720p and with 480 i/p it fills the screen top to bottom just as it should. When I hit the guide or info button they fill the screen as it should and you can see the black bar underneath the guide. I did not have this problem with my HD300 receiver. Is this a known problem with this receiver or a recent problem when it updated the software 2 times as soon as I activated the receiver. It does this with ota or D signal and does it both on hdmi and component cables. The receiver is a H20-600 and this black bar is driving me crazy! The projector is an JVC RS1 and there is no overscan and I don't think that would help because it seems as if the H20 is chopping the top of the picture off!

Am about to make the jump back to DirecTV and had a few questions.. Does the H20-600 run so HOT that I would be better off going to BB to make sure I do not get one of them even if I lose the $20 off a month for a year savings to do so? Hear the H20-100 was the one to get or is the heat problem over blown on the forums? Have plenty of air flow where my unit will be placed. Does the H21 run cooler? I am leaning towards it for the Composite audio out along with optical out. I do not care about OTA since I get my locals over DirecTV. I have a old HD dish will the pole need to be replaced for the new slim dish? Last question what wires come with the setup? Mainly need optical since all mine are in use wanted to know so I could order one from monoprice if needed. Thanks for any info..

I have isolated a ground loop problem with my H20. When i disconnect it from my system the slight hum in my speakers goes away. Does anyone know of an isolation product to correct this? i know Jensen makes a good one but it appears to be for CATV only.

Thanks,

Lou

I have isolated a ground loop problem with my H20. When i disconnect it from my system the slight hum in my speakers goes away. Does anyone know of an isolation product to correct this? i know Jensen makes a good one but it appears to be for CATV only.

Thanks,

Lou

RadioShack offers one here http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062214&cp=&sr=1&origkw=ground+loop&kw=ground+loop&parentPage=search

Do you have all your electronics equipment on one power strip? That may help provide a common ground.

For safety sake, you need to determine that there is a proper ground at the electrical entrance. Just one. You do not want multiple ground points unless they are bonded together outside the house.

Dana

Am about to make the jump back to DirecTV and had a few questions.. Does the H20-600 run so HOT that I would be better off going to BB to make sure I do not get one of them even if I lose the $20 off a month for a year savings to do so? Hear the H20-100 was the one to get or is the heat problem over blown on the forums? Have plenty of air flow where my unit will be placed. Does the H21 run cooler? I am leaning towards it for the Composite audio out along with optical out. I do not care about OTA since I get my locals over DirecTV. I have a old HD dish will the pole need to be replaced for the new slim dish? Last question what wires come with the setup? Mainly need optical since all mine are in use wanted to know so I could order one from monoprice if needed. Thanks for any info..I can only comment on the H20-100, it runs pretty warm but is fine with good airflow. Some users report the H20–600 as running hot, others say it’s okay and report no problems.
You didn’t say what kind of TV you have. Composite output is only going to give you a 480i resolution. The pole required is larger in diameter and the dish is heavier. It requires a more substantial mounting surface, the mounting flange also has a larger footprint. If you only care about SD not HD your present dish should be fine.
The H20 comes with a composite video (yellow) and analog L/R (white & red) cables. No HDMI, Toslink Optical or Component cables.

This morning at about 5:45 am my H20-100 was upgraded to 0x204C firmware by D*. The only improvement is that now when you enter a channel # for a HD channel it no longer defaults to the SD channel but goes to the HD version. Update: The new FW also allows one button push to your favorites guide and the search function responds faster, actually all responses to the remote seem faster. Everything else is the same as far as I can tell, except . . .

Now for the bad news, when selecting a channel from the guide it no longer detects or switches to the “native resolution” but stays at the previous one. My H20 is setup the same as before; Native=ON, Stretch, with ALL resolutions selected. If you select channels via the remote’s # buttons or hit "PREV" it works as before. You can correct the resolution by CH. Up then Ch. Down or multiple pushes of the format button. Squeezed HD, Stretched SD, grrr. this is very irritating and it's driving my wife crazy :( Anyone else notice this problem with the “upgrade”?

Am about to make the jump back to DirecTV and had a few questions.. Does the H20-600 run so HOT that I would be better off going to BB to make sure I do not get one of them even if I lose the $20 off a month for a year savings to do so? Hear the H20-100 was the one to get or is the heat problem over blown on the forums? Have plenty of air flow where my unit will be placed. Does the H21 run cooler? I am leaning towards it for the Composite audio out along with optical out. I do not care about OTA since I get my locals over DirecTV. I have a old HD dish will the pole need to be replaced for the new slim dish? Last question what wires come with the setup? Mainly need optical since all mine are in use wanted to know so I could order one from monoprice if needed. Thanks for any info..

I have a: H20-100, H20-600, & H21-200 + HR20/21s
If you don't need OTA, I'd go with the H21. It is the quickest to respond to the remote. It has both digital audio outputs and comes with all of the cables [but none for digital audio].
The -600 does run warmer than the -100, but with good air flow, mine has been fine. I wouldn't bury it in a rack of equipment though.

This morning at about 5:45 am my H20-100 was upgraded to 0x204C firmware by D*. The only improvement is that now when you enter a channel # for a HD channel it no longer defaults to the SD channel but goes to the HD version. Everything else is the same as far as I can tell, except . . .

Now for the bad news, when selecting a channel from the guide it no longer detects or switches to the “native resolution” but stays at the previous one. My H20 is setup the same as before; Native=ON, Stretch, with ALL resolutions selected. If you select channels via the remote’s # buttons it works as before. You can correct the resolution by CH. Up then Ch. Down or multiple pushes of the format button. Squeezed HD, Stretched SD, grrr. this is very irritating and it's driving my wife crazy :( Anyone else notice this problem with the “upgrade”?

Have you tried a reset yet?

Have you tried a reset yet?Yes, twice (including a ugh! "Reset Everything")with no improvement, also tried to force the update again, no joy.

Yes, twice with no improvement, also tried to force the update again, no joy.
OK, I'm basically out of tricks, other than the "unplug it for several hours".
This has helped for other problems that resets of any type wouldn't.
I was testing a beta that wouldn't find a SAT after the download. Tried everything. I finally pulled to power cord overnight, and in the morning it booted fine. This came up in the next beta round for the other H20 and was the only way to get them back. Some only needed a few hours for the voltage to bleed off inside the receiver.

Sill waiting fpr my install. Sunday is the day. Either a 20 or 21 based on what he gives me. Regardless, I will be paying attention to this thread for assistance.

OK, I'm basically out of tricks, other than the "unplug it for several hours".
This has helped for other problems that resets of any type wouldn't.
I was testing a beta that wouldn't find a SAT after the download. Tried everything. I finally pulled to power cord overnight, and in the morning it booted fine. This came up in the next beta round for the other H20 and was the only way to get them back. Some only needed a few hours for the voltage to bleed off inside the receiver.Thanks VOS, I'll give that a try tonight. I have to believe this is unique to my H20 or someone else would have reported it here.

Thanks VOS, I'll give that a try tonight. I have to believe this is unique to my H20 or someone else would have reported it here.

these things haven't had upgrades in so long they're getting like me: old, cranky, & set in their ways. lol

FWIW: they're testing 0x4038 for all of the H20/21 now.

H20 direct to projector via HDMI has no problems. Video is crystal clear.
Seems to be a problem between Yamaha and H20. Before I give in and get a 25 ft component cable and run in behind the walls etc, anyone had any luck using the Monoprice HDMI switches in this set up?

Thks

Hi,

Anyone using a monoprice (or any) HDMI switch in between their H20 and TV(or projector)? I am looking to see if there are any problems with the H20 going to directly to the switch.

Thanks

Now for the bad news, when selecting a channel from the guide it no longer detects or switches to the “native resolution” but stays at the previous one. My H20 is setup the same as before; Native=ON, Stretch, with ALL resolutions selected. If you select channels via the remote’s # buttons or hit "PREV" it works as before. You can correct the resolution by CH. Up then Ch. Down or multiple pushes of the format button. Squeezed HD, Stretched SD, grrr. this is very irritating and it's driving my wife crazy :( Anyone else notice this problem with the “upgrade”?

This is a known problem on the H20-600 with the new update. Sounds like the problem got ported over to the H20-100. The solution is to use the Channel button/rocker to move up/down and that should get the right resolution.

As for the H20-600 I would not want to have it in an enclosed space. You are just asking for problems. If OTA is not important then try for the H21. Seems to be a much better overall box than the H20.

Sill waiting fpr my install. Sunday is the day. Either a 20 or 21 based on what he gives me. Regardless, I will be paying attention to this thread for assistance.

The most important thing to do is to check the signal readings on 103b before the installer leaves. The 103b is very difficult to get the dish aligned on. At a minimum you want 80s or better on all the working transponders. All 90s would be better. Go for the H20-100 over the h20-600.

This is a known problem on the H20-600 with the new update. Sounds like the problem got ported over to the H20-100. The solution is to use the Channel button/rocker to move up/down and that should get the right resolution.Thanks for the heads-up, I was beginning to think I had a unique problem. As VOS suggested, I unplugged the thing overnight and still have the issue. You saved me a call to the D* mushrooms, Whew! The 0x204C update looks pretty good except for that one issue. Now if they can fix that without screwing something else up...

I wont have a choice, will I?

I will check the readings.

I wont have a choice, will I?

I will check the readings.

You will have a choice of "what's on the truck".

Okay. I'll make sure to ask for that or the H21, sound good? Which H21 do I want?

Okay. I'll make sure to ask for that or the H21, sound good? Which H21 do I want?

You can pick any H21 you want. There is only one, the H21-200

Okay, since I don't need the tuner, I can take either.

So, I can pick off of the truck for real?

Okay, since I don't need the tuner, I can take either.

So, I can pick off of the truck for real?

If you happen to have an early install, and you "talk nice" to the installer, you should be able to pick from what he has there. If you're "the last call of the day" then your choices will be "this one".

I have the 8-12 on Sunday so I should be good.

So, the H21 should be fine or the H20-100.

If I get a H20-600, should I be okay?

This morning at about 5:45 am my H20-100 was upgraded to 0x204C firmware by D*. The only improvement is that now when you enter a channel # for a HD channel it no longer defaults to the SD channel but goes to the HD version. Update: The new FW also allows one button push to your favorites guide and the search function responds faster, actually all responses to the remote seem faster. Everything else is the same as far as I can tell, except

Very strange, mine does not. I hit 202 and I still go to cnn SD not HD. I have to go to the guide and then select enter. My pre-programed still dont work either.

I have the 8-12 on Sunday so I should be good.

So, the H21 should be fine or the H20-100.

If I get a H20-600, should I be okay?

I like my H20-600 because it has a GREAT OTA tuner that none of the other D* boxes do.
It does run warmer than the -100, so it needs to be out in the open air and not crammed into an equipment stack [or rack].

Sounds like you want "one that works", more than which model. Make sure before the installer leaves and you have ALL of the software updates, that everything does work & you have good/great transponder levels for ALL of the SATs. [99 may or may not read right depending on your location since it's spot beams and if they don't point to you, you'll have low/no readings]

Okay, in order:

h21-200
h20-100
h20-600

Sound right?

Well, it's very subjective. I agree with VOS, and my order of preference would be H20-600, then the 100, then the H21 as a last resort. Of course, a good OTA tuner is important to me, someone who doesn't care, then, would have a differ viewpoint.

Okay, I don't care about an OTA tuner as I can't get locals from where I live anywhere. So, for me, is there any order or does it not matter?

Okay, I don't care about an OTA tuner as I can't get locals from where I live anywhere. So, for me, is there any order or does it not matter?

I have owned all three! I acquired an H20-600 when they first came out in early 2006. Contrary to many others, mine didn't run especially hot. But, it did have quirks. I needed OTA at the time and the 600 (made by LG) does have a fine OTA HD tuner. Otherwise, problematic. Note the length of this thread.

I left D* in May 2006 and returned that box to D*.

I came back to D* in October 2007. We now have all locals in HD so I don't need OTA capability. I got a new H20-100 that has been problem-free - but a bit slow with channel changes and doesn't land on the HD channel when both HD and SD are offered. A firmware update is in circulation. I also got a refurb H20-600 that was beat up, ran hot and froze almost immediately. I bought an H21-200 at BB and returned the H20-600. D* gave me credit for the new box.

The H21-200 has been great from the get-go.

Dana

Very strange, mine does not. I hit 202 and I still go to cnn SD not HD. I have to go to the guide and then select enter. My pre-programed still dont work either.Are you sure you have the 0x204C Upgrade? If so, you might try a "reset everything". It will require all setup to be done over including populating your favorites guide.

I thought the updates do it automatic. I have to update it?

They stagger the roll out of a new software update so it could be some days before it hits your box. You could force a software update and that should give it to you.

You could force a software update and that should give it to you.

"Not always", since a "national" release is one thing and a "rollout" is another.

That update is via sat, not phoneline, correct?

That update is via sat, not phoneline, correct?

That's correct. The phone line if/when connected makes ordering PPV easy using the remote control and also optionally displays Caller ID if your phone line is so provisioned.

Dana

I have owned all three! I acquired an H20-600 when they first came out in early 2006. Contrary to many others, mine didn't run especially hot. But, it did have quirks. I needed OTA at the time and the 600 (made by LG) does have a fine OTA HD tuner. Otherwise, problematic. Note the length of this thread.

I left D* in May 2006 and returned that box to D*.

I came back to D* in October 2007. We now have all locals in HD so I don't need OTA capability. I got a new H20-100 that has been problem-free - but a bit slow with channel changes and doesn't land on the HD channel when both HD and SD are offered. A firmware update is in circulation. I also got a refurb H20-600 that was beat up, ran hot and froze almost immediately. I bought an H21-200 at BB and returned the H20-600. D* gave me credit for the new box.

The H21-200 has been great from the get-go.

Dana

Do you have PBS in HD?

Do you have PBS in HD?

No. It's under state public TV network control. My local Comcast cable used to provide PBS HD but thanks to our state public television network, that channel is now a simulcast of the station's SD channel. Same thing in Baltimore I believe.

Local public TV stations are afraid they won't get local financial support if they allow a pass through of the national PBS HD feed, apparently. But I'll never financially support an HD simulcast of an SD broadcast so they lost me in their pledge drive.

Their OTA tower is too far away for me to haul it in when it was PBS HD.

Dana

Well, gor the install and I got the H21-200. They have had those exclusively for a month now, no older boxes.

So far, so good. Massive dish, but what can you do?

Question, it is outputting 1080i. My TV is 720p. That should be fine, correct? It will just downconvert or de interlace I should say.

Question, it is outputting 1080i. My TV is 720p. That should be fine, correct? It will just downconvert or de interlace I should say.Most TVs do a very good job of down and up converting the various formats. My old Sony LCD RP which is native 720p works fine with the H20. I suspect the H21 is very similar. I set my box as NATIVE ON, STRETCH and All formats selected, it works better than letting the H20 do the job, YMMV. Good Luck! :)

I have an Onkyo 605 receiver that I run this through. It looks like the signal the TV receives is 1080i, but I know it can only handle 720p.

Well, gor the install and I got the H21-200. They have had those exclusively for a month now, no older boxes.

So far, so good. Massive dish, but what can you do?

Question, it is outputting 1080i. My TV is 720p. That should be fine, correct? It will just downconvert or de interlace I should say.

Try setting the box to "native - on" and then set the box to the resolutions that you TV will accept. Of course we are assuming that your TV can do a better scaling job than the box.

I have native on. My tv is 720p, so should I keep it from the 1080i that it is currently receiving frrom the box. My TV says it is receiving a 1080i signal.

Also, for HD, sometimes I get the bars on the side during commercials, that is normal?

Just strying to get it set up right.

I have native on. My tv is 720p, so should I keep it from the 1080i that it is currently receiving frrom the box. My TV says it is receiving a 1080i signal.

Also, for HD, sometimes I get the bars on the side during commercials, that is normal?

Just strying to get it set up right.

It depends oh how good your set is at scaling. Some TV's have better chips in them what's in the H21. You will just have to experiment as see which does the better job.

yes, you can see bars on the side on some commercials. you may even see some commercials in letter box.

Looks like the update for H20-100 hit last night.. now (finally) my Guide is one-push, and no longer going to the filter, plus my direct-key entry tunes right to the HD channel, not its SD counterpart :)

Not here in Chicago. :mad:

Not here in Chicago. :mad:

Note the comments above on this page. It's a rollout meaning various parts of the country get it on a schedule. It's not a national release that everyone downloads at the same time.

All good things come to those that are patient. Especially at this time of year! ;)

Dana

It just aggravates me a bit. I spent money on a mx-3000 for it not to work correct.

Looks like the update for H20-100 hit last night.. now (finally) my Guide is one-push, and no longer going to the filter, plus my direct-key entry tunes right to the HD channel, not its SD counterpart :)Have you noticed the following; With NATIVE=ON, and you select a channel from the guide it does not detect or change to the format of the selected channel but stays at the previously set format? For instance, going to a HD channel from a SD one, it stays at 480i. This is a bug in the new FW. :(
Again, D* sends out a FW update with an easily detected BUG. I discovered it in less than 2 minutes, in fact that's how I found out that I had been "updated" in the first place.

I bought this receiver as a atsc tuner but I cant seem to watch anything. When I scan for channels, it finds them but I cannot view them. Do I have to buy directv service?

I bought this receiver as a atsc tuner but I cant seem to watch anything. When I scan for channels, it finds them but I cannot view them. Do I have to buy directv service?

Yes. Some older receivers that are not D* branded - Samsung for example - will work for OTA without a subscription. But even then, some require that a D* card be inserted in the slot.

Dana

Okay, so I have read more from the manual. My TV as you know is 720p. I have it set to native on and all resolutions capable. Can't I just let the remote for the TV do the strech, crop etc and not deal with the DTV function that does that? 1080i should not hurt the tv, right?

So, in native, if the show is 480i, it will display on my tv 480i, right? There is no way to upconvert that signal through the DTV box? Like, if I push the button on the box to 720p, it is still a 480i signal, right? I just want to set it to all resolutions, native on, and let the tv remote crop, strech, etc. Is there a problem with this and am I missing some great feature where I could be getting a better picture? Just want to make sure I don't miss anything.

Okay, so I have read more from the manual. My TV as you know is 720p. I have it set to native on and all resolutions capable. Can't I just let the remote for the TV do the strech, crop etc and not deal with the DTV function that does that? 1080i should not hurt the tv, right?

So, in native, if the show is 480i, it will display on my tv 480i, right? There is no way to upconvert that signal through the DTV box? Like, if I push the button on the box to 720p, it is still a 480i signal, right? I just want to set it to all resolutions, native on, and let the tv remote crop, strech, etc. Is there a problem with this and am I missing some great feature where I could be getting a better picture? Just want to make sure I don't miss anything.

Sorry, but that's not correct. If your TV is 720p, it will have to convert whatever signal it gets to 720p. That's the only resolution it can display, no matter what you feed it. The question is whether the H20 can convert the native resolution better than does your display. If you set the H20 to supply 720p to your display, the box does all the heavy lifting. Send the TV anything else and the TV has to convert it.

Whatever you think looks best is best.

Dana

Okay, so I have read more from the manual. My TV as you know is 720p. I have it set to native on and all resolutions capable. Can't I just let the remote for the TV do the stretch, crop etc and not deal with the DTV function that does that? 1080i should not hurt the tv, right?

So, in native, if the show is 480i, it will display on my tv 480i, right? There is no way to upconvert that signal through the DTV box? Like, if I push the button on the box to 720p, it is still a 480i signal, right? I just want to set it to all resolutions, native on, and let the tv remote crop, stretch, etc. Is there a problem with this and am I missing some great feature where I could be getting a better picture? Just want to make sure I don't miss anything.
You are really asking two question: resolution and aspect ratio [format].
Resolution is fairly easy: native on there is no change with all selected. With native off you can manually change any program to any resolution. The remote will cycle through each format and resolution [can be a pain].
Aspect ratio is where everything gets weired because your TV setting come into the mix along with the "same" setting in the H20.
If you have the H20 set to a 16:9 TV, the format settings work for SD only. Now if your TV triggers off the 480 resolution, then you can set the H20 to stretch [thought this doesn't sound right] and have your TV do the crop/stretch, or what ever.
If your TV triggers off the aspect ratio bit being sent by the H20, then you want to set the H20 to a 4:3 TV. With this setting SD goes through as 4:3 for your TV to do "what ever" with and the H20 format settings work on the HD resolutions. [pillarbox becomes letterbox] Again if you set the H20 to stretch, the HD goes to the TV as 16:9 HD.
So with these settings: 4:3 TV, native on, format to stretch.
My 16:9 TV will: show SD undistorted and let me zoom [stretch or what ever] with my TV remote, HD is displayed in full screen, undistorted.
As I said this is where it gets weired, since more setting in the H20 seem "wrong" than "right", but believe it or not, it works. :D

Sorry, but that's not correct. If your TV is 720p, it will have to convert whatever signal it gets to 720p. That's the only resolution it can display, no matter what you feed it. The question is whether the H20 can convert the native resolution better than does your display. If you set the H20 to supply 720p to your display, the box does all the heavy lifting. Send the TV anything else and the TV has to convert it.

Whatever you think looks best is best.

Dana

The question that comes in here is: does the H20 or the TV do a better job de-interlacing the 1080i and scaling in down to the display size?
If the H20 does then de-select the 1080i output.

You are really asking two question: resolution and aspect ratio [format].
Resolution is fairly easy: native on there is no change with all selected. With native off you can manually change any program to any resolution. The remote will cycle through each format and resolution [can be a pain].
Aspect ratio is where everything gets weired because your TV setting come into the mix along with the "same" setting in the H20.
If you have the H20 set to a 16:9 TV, the format settings work for SD only. Now if your TV triggers off the 480 resolution, then you can set the H20 to stretch [thought this doesn't sound right] and have your TV do the crop/stretch, or what ever.
If your TV triggers off the aspect ratio bit being sent by the H20, then you want to set the H20 to a 4:3 TV. With this setting SD goes through as 4:3 for your TV to do "what ever" with and the H20 format settings work on the HD resolutions. [pillarbox becomes letterbox] Again if you set the H20 to stretch, the HD goes to the TV as 16:9 HD.
So with these settings: 4:3 TV, native on, format to stretch.
My 16:9 TV will: show SD undistorted and let me zoom [stretch or what ever] with my TV remote, HD is displayed in full screen, undistorted.
As I said this is where it gets weired, since more setting in the H20 seem "wrong" than "right", but believe it or not, it works. :D



You slightly lost me. I have the native on, strech, 16:9, and all resolutions supported. When the picture has black border, I hit the aspect button on my remote for the TV and fill, strech, etc. Am I going about this the wrong way Should I set it to 4:3? even though my TV is 16:9?

Okay, I just noticed, with my settings, if I hit the imput button, and the program is not HD, the only thigs I get are native stretch pillar box and crop. I leave it on stretch, and change anything else with my TV remote. Sound right?

Okay, played some more. Whether I have the TV convert or the box, picture is the same. So, seems not to be an issue for me. I will leave all resolutions available unless there is an advantage to only choosing 720p? Even when the signal is 480i, changing it to any other resolution, it looks the same. Does that make sense? Seems to be no improvement. Also, I can't find any 480p channels, all SD are 480i, am I missing something?

As far as aspect. I changed it to 4:3 (TV). It seems that when I do that, and SD programs are automatically streched and I don't have to mess with anything. All HD are automatically full screen and look great. Is that what I should strive for and should I change the tv to 4:3 or leave it at 16:9?

Did I miss something? I can't tell what my tv "triggers off of". I missed that. Sorry if I am a noob, I just want to make sure I am getting 100% out of my TV and DTV. Thanks for clarifying.

Okay, played some more. Whether I have the TV convert or the box, picture is the same. So, seems not to be an issue for me. I will leave all resolutions available unless there is an advantage to only choosing 720p? Even when the signal is 480i, changing it to any other resolution, it looks the same. Does that make sense? Seems to be no improvement. Also, I can't find any 480p channels, all SD are 480i, am I missing something?

As far as aspect. I changed it to 4:3 (TV). It seems that when I do that, and SD programs are automatically streched and I don't have to mess with anything. All HD are automatically full screen and look great. Is that what I should strive for and should I change the tv to 4:3 or leave it at 16:9?

Did I miss something? I can't tell what my tv "triggers off of". I missed that. Sorry if I am a noob, I just want to make sure I am getting 100% out of my TV and DTV. Thanks for clarifying.

"Great minds" have stumbled with this so don't feel like "the lone ranger."
There is no 480p programing. Some TVs won't pass 480i over the HDMI connection [so they use 480p].
I would look at the H20/TV and compare SD with text in it and crop or zoom with the letterbox SD programs. This is where I can see the biggest difference with my TV [doing it better than the H20]. If you can't see a difference, then just let the H20 do it. If everything looks the same as 720p, then leave it there. The channel changing will be faster.
This all comes down to what you like [see]. There is no "one setting fits all".
Some people want to use the stretch mode in their TV for 4:3 instead of having the H20 pillarbars or stretch. This is because their TV has a different stretch mode, where it stretches the sides more than the center.
I can't stand this, but "that's me" and all of these setting are so we all get what we want.
Remember to "play" with your TV setting too for each of these settings, since both the TV and the H20 can affect the total picture.

So, you are saying there is no broadcast 480p? Got it!!

You are saying to look at text on the screen for a SD program all resolutions supported and zoom or crop with the H21 so it is really emphasized. Then, change the H21 to 720p only supported. Look at the picture. If one looks better than the other, then leave it that way (either all supported and the TV converts or 720p only supported and the H21 does the conversion) correct? This should be done with a 480i program or a 1080i program? The reason I ask is all 480i programs look like junk to me.

As far as the strech, I leave the H21 on native on strech at 16:9. I like the strech feature of my TV, but really, there are so many variables here, so I guess I will just let my tv do the streching unless there is an issue with that.

You are saying to look at text on the screen for a SD program all resolutions supported and zoom or crop with the H21 so it is really emphasized. this will show how well the scaler in the H21 works. Next compare it to your TV crop/zoom [with the H21 in stretch] If you don't see any big change between the TV doing the zoom and the H21 doing it, then both scalers are about the same quality.
Then, change the H21 to 720p only supported. Look at the picture. If one looks better than the other, then leave it that way (either all supported and the TV converts or 720p only supported and the H21 does the conversion) correct? I would turn native off and then you can cycle through the resolutions. "I would guess" 1080i would be a waste since you TV does show 1080 [so it would scale down the 1080 to your 720 display].
This should be done with a 480i program or a 1080i program? The reason I ask is all 480i programs look like junk to me. 480 at this point is kind of meaningless and 1080 [as posted] is downscaled by your TV.
480i is where you use the scaler the most, so most of this is to improve 480 as much as can be done by using the "box" that has the best scaler [which you should have found in "step one"].
As far as the stretch, I leave the H21 on native on stretch at 16:9. I like the strech feature of my TV, but really, there are so many variables here, so I guess I will just let my tv do the stretching unless there is an issue with that. Now here is where you might set the h21 to native on , stretch, but also set it to a 4:3 TV. With these settings, you can set your TV to do the stretching for the SD programs.
Now if none of this makes SD look any better, scrap all of this and set: 16:9, native off, and you can even de-select all but the 720p, and the H21 will do all of the work. one remote, fastest channel changing, etc.

Hi,

Anyone using a monoprice (or any) HDMI switch in between their H20 and TV(or projector)? I am looking to see if there are any problems with the H20 going to directly to the switch.

Thanks

Answering my own question, in case anyone is looking to use this setup:
I got a monoprice HDMI switch (4X1 Enhanced HDMI Switch with built-in Equalizer) and I connected my H20-100 to it and from the switch I ran it to the projector. I ran a RCA cable(sound) and an optical cable (sound) from the H20-100 to the Yamaha.

Result: NO picture, NO sound.

Answering my own question, in case anyone is looking to use this setup:
I got a monoprice HDMI switch (4X1 Enhanced HDMI Switch with built-in Equalizer) and I connected my H20-100 to it and from the switch I ran it to the projector. I ran a RCA cable(sound) and an optical cable (sound) from the H20-100 to the Yamaha.

Result: NO picture, NO sound.It sounds like the H20 and your receiver (AVR) have an incompatibility with the HDCP handshake. This is not uncommon and has plagued many users of various equipment configurations. It does not mean that either is bad. HDMI is a flawed interface and was further complicated with the HDCP copy protection scheme. I use Component (for video) and Optical/Toslink (for audio) whenever possible for that very reason. The difference in PQ is imperceptible and definitely more reliable.

It sounds like the H20 and your receiver (AVR) have an incompatibility with the HDCP handshake. This is not uncommon and has plagued many users of various equipment configurations. It does not mean that either is bad. HDMI is a flawed interface and was further complicated with the HDCP copy protection scheme. I use Component (for video) and Optical/Toslink (for audio) whenever possible for that very reason. The difference in PQ is imperceptible and definitely more reliable.

What I don't understand is, why I don't get any sound? I have it hooked to Yamaha V1700 via optical and RCA. I am looking to hook it via component....have the unpleasant task of running it behind walls/into ceiling to get it to my projector!!

Thks

Arghh, I am obsessing over minimal quality improvements. I will leave my box native on, 16:9, all formats supported, stretch, native strech. I will do the stretching with my TV and let the expensive TV do the conversion instead of the $100 box. Since the TV will support all resolutions but downscale to 720p, I will leave all resolutions checked and let the TV do the work.

Make sense?

Arghh, I am obsessing over minimal quality improvements. I will leave my box native on, 16:9, all formats supported, stretch, native strech. I will do the stretching with my TV and let the expensive TV do the conversion instead of the $100 box. Since the TV will support all resolutions but downscale to 720p, I will leave all resolutions checked and let the TV do the work.

Make sense?
Sure it does, since that's what you like.
Just to make sure your TV is doing the "stretching" and not the H21, set you H21 to a 4:3 TV. With this the SD programs can only come in 4:3. If I have the H21 set 16:9 & stretch, and my TV to "full", the H21 is doing it not my TV.

I got my update for my H20 last night...0x204c...

Now when the number buttons are pushed it goes directly to the HD channels, not the SD like it did before..

So far thats the only difference I noticed. What other updates am I missing with this new firmware update?

What I don't understand is, why I don't get any sound? I have it hooked to Yamaha V1700 via optical and RCA. I am looking to hook it via component....have the unpleasant task of running it behind walls/into ceiling to get it to my projector!!

Thks
Check your connections. Is your optical cable making perfect contact on both receivers? Furthermore does your Yamaha remote have a digital input mode? Also make sure your Yamaha remote is set to audio. Last but NOT least if your Yamaha optical input is assignable make sure you assigned it correctly to your H20. I have a Denon and the H20 via the annoying optical and I don't have sound problems. If your Yamaha is DD 5.1 capable make sure to activate the DD sound on your H20 via the menu.
Good luck!

I got my update for my H20 last night...0x204c...

Now when the number buttons are pushed it goes directly to the HD channels, not the SD like it did before..

So far thats the only difference I noticed. What other updates am I missing with this new firmware update?

You can read about it here: http://www.dbstalk.com/showthread.php?t=110847

You can read about it here: http://www.dbstalk.com/showthread.php?t=110847Funny, Earl does not mention the irritating "NATIVE/GUIDE BUG" with this "update" :rolleyes: Is he not aware? Looks like it got past everybody.

Funny, Earl does not mention the irritating "NATIVE/GUIDE BUG" with this "update" :rolleyes: Is he not aware? Looks like it got past everybody.

This is the national release which is well behind the test version [the last being 4038].

BTW: what is the "native/guide bug"?
There were reports of "When changing channels from the guide, the resolution will not change", in the test release, so "I think" the development team is aware of it.

Check your connections. Is your optical cable making perfect contact on both receivers? Furthermore does your Yamaha remote have a digital input mode? Also make sure your Yamaha remote is set to audio. Last but NOT least if your Yamaha optical input is assignable make sure you assigned it correctly to your H20. I have a Denon and the H20 via the annoying optical and I don't have sound problems. If your Yamaha is DD 5.1 capable make sure to activate the DD sound on your H20 via the menu.
Good luck!

Thanks!
I checked again last night and it looks the optical cable is bad...(can it go bad??). It could be a loose connection. I have hooked RCA and sound works.

And, I have given up on HDMI. Ran component cables from H20 to projector. Have picture now, and with the RCA from the H20 to Yamaha, I have sound!

I wish HDMI issues get worked out soon.

Thanks

:)What kind of support is there for S ingle W hite M ale?You can read about it here: http://www.dbstalk.com/showthread.php?t=110847

:)What kind of support is there for S ingle W hite M ale?

Apparently much more than for Single White Females.

Actually it is a Single Wire Multi-switch, that is very slowly rolling out. With one of these you can use just one coax for all of the units you have that support SWM. It makes DirecTV wiring more like cable, where you just split the coax to feed what ever you have.

Thanks!
I checked again last night and it looks the optical cable is bad...(can it go bad??). It could be a loose connection. I have hooked RCA and sound works.

And, I have given up on HDMI. Ran component cables from H20 to projector. Have picture now, and with the RCA from the H20 to Yamaha, I have sound!

I wish HDMI issues get worked out soon.

Thanks

If you have a loose digital optical connection, the cable ends are not secure in the terminal sockets. The sockets have groves and the cable ends have ridges on two sides that fit in those grooves. Further, the cable ends have two beveled corners that fit in corresponding beveled corners of the terminal sockets. The cable can only fit securely in one position. In addition, it snaps softly into place.

The only way to damage a glass fiber optical cable is to bend it sharply. It's likely just loose.

Don't hold your breath regarding HDMI problems being solved soon. It has the support of the major consumer electronics manufacturers and the motion picture industry because it supports HDCP. (So does DVI, a much more physically solid connection. As to why the preference for HDMI, my guess is that since DVI is also a computer connection, there was fear that it would lend itself to hackers defeating HDCP.)

Dana

You can read about it here: http://www.dbstalk.com/showthread.php?t=110847

Thank you yet again..

BTW..What does this mean?:----- Guide/Filter Toggle option

Thank you yet again..

BTW..What does this mean?:----- Guide/Filter Toggle option

Wow, it's been a long time. IIRC this is where you can set the guide button to show the grid [guide] first or show the filter list [like last year where it took two presses of the guide button to get to the guide]. It should be under the display options in the setup guide down at the bottom.

Wow, it's been a long time. IIRC this is where you can set the guide button to show the grid [guide] first or show the filter list [like last year where it took two presses of the guide button to get to the guide]. It should be under the display options in the setup guide down at the bottom.


Yeeeeeeeeeeeesssssssssss


You da man....

Thx

This is the national release which is well behind the test version [the last being 4038].

BTW: what is the "native/guide bug"?
When you select a channel from the guide and have NATIVE=ON the resolution stays the same as the last channel selected, very aggravating. I call that a BUG.There were reports of "When changing channels from the guide, the resolution will not change", in the test release, so "I think" the development team is aware of it.I guess I can't understand why they would release this version with this very basic problem? Seems it would have been obvious to anyone in short order and should have been fixed first. Yet, they are still rolling it out like it’s the greatest. Am I expecting too much for a device that has been in the field for well over a year?

When you select a channel from the guide and have NATIVE=ON the resolution stays the same as the last channel selected, very aggravating. I call that a BUG. I guess I can't understand why they would release this version with this very basic problem? Seems it would have been obvious to anyone in short order and should have been fixed first. Yet, they are still rolling it out like it’s the greatest. Am I expecting too much for a device that has been in the field for well over a year?
They never tell me "why".
I'd guess there were things in the release that they wanted out there, that did work.
When did Bill Gates ever wait for Windows [anything]?

They never tell me "why".
I'd guess there were things in the release that they wanted out there, that did work.
When did Bill Gates ever wait for Windows [anything]?Good point VOS. I can remember a time when products and software actually worked as advertised when shipped. Yep, I’m older than dirt. FW technology has left the door open for statements like, “to be fixed in the next release”, for hardware. I think that was originally penned by Billy G. :rolleyes: The new FW has fixed the slow response and added the one button push guide thingy. If they could just fix this one issue and leave it alone, I’d be a happy camper.
Happy Holidays! :)

On all 3 of my H20-100 receivers with previous FW and with the recent FW my boxes lock up if I've had XM 862 Holly on for more than a few hours. Not sure yet if it would lock up on any other XM channel. The only way to turn the unit off or change channels or anything else is to push the red reset button.

Anyone else?

Me too Rich. It locks up on ALL the radio stations if left on too long. Sucks, I have to reset it.

On all 3 of my H20-100 receivers with previous FW and with the recent FW my boxes lock up if I've had XM 862 Holly on for more than a few hours. Not sure yet if it would lock up on any other XM channel. The only way to turn the unit off or change channels or anything else is to push the red reset button.

Anyone else?

Sure it does, since that's what you like.
Just to make sure your TV is doing the "stretching" and not the H21, set you H21 to a 4:3 TV. With this the SD programs can only come in 4:3. If I have the H21 set 16:9 & stretch, and my TV to "full", the H21 is doing it not my TV.

I will do that. Thanks!

On my H20-600, have noticed lately that when I go into the menu and try to execute Close Captions, all I get are blank gray bars where the captions should be. Anyone have this happen?

Is there any easy way to toggle between having closed captioning ON vs. OFF?

My friend often likes to toggle between having the closed captioning on and off. I was able to show him how to navigate within the menus of the receiver to turn closed captioning on and off and this works well.

However it is several steps (about 8-10 button presses). I didn't see any option on the remote to toggle it, nor is there any mention of this in the owners manual.

So I was thinking perhaps there is a more direct way to toggle this than going through all those steps in the menu. Does anyone know? Also as a side note he does not use a learning remote so even a discrete code would not be of any value to him.

Thanks!

Is there any easy way to toggle between having closed captioning ON vs. OFF?



Doesn't help you now but D*'s working on a possible change. On the latest beta software for the HR20 you press the yellow button on the remote, arrow down one to closed captioning which turns it on, do the same to turn it back off. Now if this is what D* will stay with, make another change, or never implement in national release code or migrate it to other receivers we don't know.

Hey everyone,
Just recently I noticed I wasn't getting the "new" HD channels (i.e. MGMHD) even though I subscribed to them (verified by DTV) and was getting them a few weeks ago, but still can get the "old" HD channels (i.e. ESPNH). I have an H20 100 and I get a message saying "searching for satellite signal...771. I called DTV and they went thru their checks and suggested I climb up on the roof to check the connections. That doesn't seem correct to me since I can get the old HD channels. They also mentioned the service plan (which I was unaware of) for $6 a month or pay a $70 service call. I've done the reset and pulled the card. Any ideas where my problem is and what is the opinion about the service plan.

Thanks,
DZ

I don't know the answer either, but as of early last week I no longer get channels 74, 78, 255, 267, 284, and 332. I didn't bother to call. I figure they just changed their line up of plans and haven't got around to notifying me that I need to pay more money again to get the channels listed, especially since my message says I don't subscribe to them (all of a sudden). Makes me wonder what the $10 I pay for HD really entitles me to. When Starz added HD I called and they said I had a grandfathered Starz package and if I wanted the HD it would cost me $2 more. At the moment I think I pay to much so I won't be calling them about channels I no longer get. If they take too many away I'll switch to Comcast.

There is now an "HD extra" pack for $5.
This came from a email on 12/11/07:
"Hurry, you only have until Saturday to preview this package of stunning HD-only channels, including MHD, HDNet Movies, MGM HD, Smithsonian Channel HD, and Universal HD. After the preview, you can continue to see these channels by adding DIRECTV HD Extra Pack to your programming."

...These are crap...PERIOD

AMEN! And how about the continuing picture distortion (pixilation?)and the disconnected/distorted audio and the lengthy blackouts when it sprinkles. I thought I would never deal with the cable company but as obnoxious as they are at least their equipment works. As soon as my forced lease is up I'm gone.

Hey everyone,
Just recently I noticed I wasn't getting the "new" HD channels (i.e. MGMHD) even though ...That doesn't seem correct to me since I can get the old HD channels. They also mentioned the service plan (which I was unaware of) for $6 a month or pay a $70 service call. I've done the reset and pulled the card. Any ideas where my problem is and what is the opinion about the service plan.

Thanks,
DZ

I've had to reset my "leased" HD20 so many times I made a spreadsheet so I know what channels to program.

I used to get HD local channels. I called D* for another problem and they said I would get all the HD channels for free for a year. It kind of quenched my continuing anger until I got the next bill. SURPRISE I was getting charged for HD channels I didn't order. Then when I stopped the HD service I lost the local HD channels.

... and the lengthy blackouts when it sprinkles.

Clearly there is something wrong in your system. Poor dish alignment, loose connectors, etc.
I only lose signal in the heaviest downpours.

I've had to reset my "leased" HD20 so many times I made a spreadsheet so I know what channels to program.

I used to get HD local channels. I called D* for another problem and they said I would get all the HD channels for free for a year. It kind of quenched my continuing anger until I got the next bill. SURPRISE I was getting charged for HD channels I didn't order. Then when I stopped the HD service I lost the local HD channels.

HD costs $10/month.
If you want your locals OTA is the only other way.

Clearly there is something wrong in your system. Poor dish alignment, loose connectors, etc.
I only lose signal in the heaviest downpours.

Amen. On the coast of Maine I have yet to loose signal due to local weather. That includes 18 mo. with a three LNB dish and three months with the 5 LNB dish. Snow, sleet, heavy rain, Nor'easters, you name it. No affect on reception.

Dana

HD costs $10/month.
If you want your locals OTA is the only other way.

HD costs $10 HD Extra costs another $5. What a great way to hide the costs. I presume by some of the other post. Locals cost $3 or more, but if you want the HD feeds you need the HD for $10 / mo. and any extra receivers cost another $4.95. Do they do this so that there packages are under FCC rules? I wonder if Comcast nickel and dimes you also.

I was wondering why I got thiose channels, but only for a few days.

I was wondering why I got thiose channels, but only for a few days.

They were part of a "free preview" until 12/15.

Hey everyone,
Just recently I noticed I wasn't getting the "new" HD channels (i.e. MGMHD) even though I subscribed to them (verified by DTV) and was getting them a few weeks ago, but still can get the "old" HD channels (i.e. ESPNH). I have an H20 100 and I get a message saying "searching for satellite signal...771. I called DTV and they went thru their checks and suggested I climb up on the roof to check the connections. That doesn't seem correct to me since I can get the old HD channels. They also mentioned the service plan (which I was unaware of) for $6 a month or pay a $70 service call. I've done the reset and pulled the card. Any ideas where my problem is and what is the opinion about the service plan.

Thanks,
DZ

It's not suppose to work this way but see if you can get a CSR to deactivate and then reactivate your HD Extra package. The company line is that Channel not purchased can not be checked until the signal is acquired.

I had a lot problems with the H20 lineup and searching for satellite. They did not go away till I got a H21. IMO the H20's can be very temperamental when it comes to getting signals off of the 103b.

Does anyone have problems with HD channels when it is a little junky outside? I am having audio "popping" right now, and it is sleeting a little. The HD channels are 2.0 DD. This has never happened before. The SD channels, which are PCM are fine audio wise.

Can anyone help?

HD costs $10/month.
If you want your locals OTA is the only other way.

I was uneasy about the HD20 before I bought it because I was monitoring this conference. I wanted another Hughes box ($20) after my first Hughes box failed but D*'s policy was to provide "local HD channels free". Since all of my AV equipment is HD compatible it seemed foolish not to upgrade. At one point I received all the HD channels. Needless to say I've been completely underwhelmed. If I was going to stay with D* I would like to shove this HD20 right up....well, you get the idea...and get a old, non HD box.

I've had D* for more than 5 years. All have crapped out during rainstorms. This one is the 5 LNB dish pointed to receive transponder 107 (I think) so I can get the local "free" channels. It crashes at any sign of rain. I asked about realigning the dish that was professionally installed and D* informed me that was never necessary. It is possible there is connection problems but it seems odd they manifested themselves after I upgraded.

I was uneasy about the HD20 before I bought it because I was monitoring this conference. I wanted another Hughes box ($20) after my first Hughes box failed but D*'s policy was to provide "local HD channels free". Since all of my AV equipment is HD compatible it seemed foolish not to upgrade. At one point I received all the HD channels. Needless to say I've been completely underwhelmed. If I was going to stay with D* I would like to shove this HD20 right up....well, you get the idea...and get a old, non HD box.

I've had D* for more than 5 years. All have crapped out during rainstorms. This one is the 5 LNB dish pointed to receive transponder 107 (I think) so I can get the local "free" channels. It crashes at any sign of rain. I asked about realigning the dish that was professionally installed and D* informed me that was never necessary. It is possible there is connection problems but it seems odd they manifested themselves after I upgraded.

"local HD channels free", I've never heard of this, but they were "free" with the $10 HD package I already paid for.
The National HD comes off the 103 SAT.
What are your signal levels? Mine are in the 90s, so I've only had rain-fade in the heaviest of rain/hail and it lasted just a few min.
I had my upgrade done 20 months ago. I'd watched the training video from D* and seemed to have known more about how it should have been done than my installer did. I have four service calls within the first week until it was done "correctly". I've had no problems since.
As for what a CSR will say, that's anybody's guess. I continue to hear false statements even from their supervisors.

Does anyone have problems with HD channels when it is a little junky outside? I am having audio "popping" right now, and it is sleeting a little. The HD channels are 2.0 DD. This has never happened before. The SD channels, which are PCM are fine audio wise.

Can anyone help?

Not sure what "junky' means. I will assume that you are talking about the national HD channels. Check the signal strengths for 103b. Ideally they should all be in the 90's. 80's and 90's are acceptable. Anything under 70's, and IMO, you need the did to be realigned.

There is an Audio setting in the menu settings if you want DD. Make sure that that Audio setting is correct for your TV.

I was uneasy about the HD20 before I bought it because I was monitoring this conference. I wanted another Hughes box ($20) after my first Hughes box failed but D*'s policy was to provide "local HD channels free". Since all of my AV equipment is HD compatible it seemed foolish not to upgrade. At one point I received all the HD channels. Needless to say I've been completely underwhelmed. If I was going to stay with D* I would like to shove this HD20 right up....well, you get the idea...and get a old, non HD box.

I've had D* for more than 5 years. All have crapped out during rainstorms. This one is the 5 LNB dish pointed to receive transponder 107 (I think) so I can get the local "free" channels. It crashes at any sign of rain. I asked about realigning the dish that was professionally installed and D* informed me that was never necessary. It is possible there is connection problems but it seems odd they manifested themselves after I upgraded.

I would say that a good number of the local tech's still have the old signal meters that can not pick up the new satellite. This makes aligning the dish to pick up the 103b much more of an art than a science. If you are still within 90 days of your upgrade then you are still under the warranty period.

You did not say if you have any switches between dish and your box(s). Did they upgrade the switch(s). A lot of the old switches can not handle the new satellite. Just remember that they do not want to send somebody back to your house.

I upgraded to the 5LNB dish and rain fade is much less of a problem than it was with my old 1LNB round dish.

I would say that a good number of the local tech's still have the old signal meters that can not pick up the new satellite. This makes aligning the dish to pick up the 103b much more of an art than a science.

Mine was done with the older meter and if you follow the training video, it really isn't that much of an "art". Using the Ku setting and finding two equal sides of the beam and then dividing it in half, will have it centered on the Ka beam. Mine was done 20 months ago and it still fine.
The "trick" is to have an installer that actually cares about the job they're doing, which may be where the "art" come in. :)

Doesn't help you now but D*'s working on a possible change. On the latest beta software for the HR20 you press the yellow button on the remote, arrow down one to closed captioning which turns it on, do the same to turn it back off. Now if this is what D* will stay with, make another change, or never implement in national release code or migrate it to other receivers we don't know.

Thanks! Any word when the next version (which may include this change) will be released? Are updated automatically installed or do you have to manually trigger it somehow to download the latest software/firmware?

Thanks! Any word when the next version (which may include this change) will be released? Are updated automatically installed or do you have to manually trigger it somehow to download the latest software/firmware?


If you don't mind assisting D* with the testing of their software check out the DirecTV "Cutting Edge" section over at DBSTalk (sister site to here). Please make sure that you read the rules for participating in the CE process, like NEVER calling D* for problems with a box running CE software. You should also be willing to report any issues with the software and offer suggestions for changes, just don't do it to get new features early.

If you agree with the rules/requirement then subscribe to the notification thread and when a new CE release becomes available you can do a force software download reboot to pick up the new code. Else, just site back and wait until folks are done testing it and D* says it's ready for national release.

If you don't mind assisting D* with the testing of their software check out the DirecTV "Cutting Edge" section over at DBSTalk (sister site to here). Please make sure that you read the rules for participating in the CE process, like NEVER calling D* for problems with a box running CE software. You should also be willing to report any issues with the software and offer suggestions for changes, just don't do it to get new features early.

If you agree with the rules/requirement then subscribe to the notification thread and when a new CE release becomes available you can do a force software download reboot to pick up the new code. Else, just site back and wait until folks are done testing it and D* says it's ready for national release.

Thanks. Actually this is for a friend who is totally non-tech savvy and lives out of town so I can't really help them (and I wouldn't want them to try this on their own). Once it is tested will they just roll it out (eventually) so it updates automatically? Or will he still need to kick start the update if he wants it?

Thanks. Actually this is for a friend who is totally non-tech savvy and lives out of town so I can't really help them (and I wouldn't want them to try this on their own). Once it is tested will they just roll it out (eventually) so it updates automatically? Or will he still need to kick start the update if he wants it?

When D* rolls out an update it happens automatically usually overnight. They also usually start on the west coast and then slowly work their way to the east coast over a week or two.

When D* rolls out an update it happens automatically usually overnight. They also usually start on the west coast and then slowly work their way to the east coast over a week or two.

Thanks! Do you have any rough feel for when they may roll out the next version that may include the easier access to closed caption on/off? Are we talking days, a week, a few weeks, month, months etc? Thanks again.

Thanks! Do you have any rough feel for when they may roll out the next version that may include the easier access to closed caption on/off? Are we talking days, a week, a few weeks, month, months etc? Thanks again.
Sorry, I have no idea/insight into when this will happen. But if I had to guess, due to the amount of changes in the current cycle and bug reports I'd guess it's the month+ time frame, but then again it's just a guess, could be sooner.

Does anyone have problems with HD channels when it is a little junky outside? I am having audio "popping" right now, and it is sleeting a little. The HD channels are 2.0 DD. This has never happened before. The SD channels, which are PCM are fine audio wise.

Can anyone help?
Are you referring to a pop that occurs every few seconds?

Is your dish grounded? The new boxes (or possibly the new MPEG4 channels) seem to be more easily affected by bad grounding. You should either have either a ground connected to the ground screw on the dish, or a wire running to the ground pole of an electrical outlet.

Not sure what "junky' means. I will assume that you are talking about the national HD channels. Check the signal strengths for 103b. Ideally they should all be in the 90's. 80's and 90's are acceptable. Anything under 70's, and IMO, you need the did to be realigned.

There is an Audio setting in the menu settings if you want DD. Make sure that that Audio setting is correct for your TV.

All my signals are in the 90's. I think it was the channels feed. yesterday, all 2.0, PCM and 5.1 sources sounded fine. It is grounded fine, it think it may have been the feed or weather related. I'll keep positing here if something changes.

"local HD channels free",
...What are your signal levels? Mine are in the 90s, so I've only had rain-fade in the heaviest of rain/hail and it lasted just a few min....


My "test system" shows 3 inclinations; 101 degrees = 100+, 110 degrees = 82, and 119 degrees = 82. I have transponders 1 through 32; 4 & 12 are 0, 26 is 60 and all the rest range from the mid 80's to 100.

My rainouts can easily last 45 minutes to an hour.

My "test system" shows 3 inclinations; 101 degrees = 100+, 110 degrees = 82, and 119 degrees = 82. I have transponders 1 through 32; 4 & 12 are 0, 26 is 60 and all the rest range from the mid 80's to 100.

My rainouts can easily last 45 minutes to an hour.

Your Dish is misaligned. If your 119 is as low as 82, then your 103 is barely there.
Trouble shooting:
1. Depending where you live, your dish has estimated settings. Could be your Tilt. check them.
2. LOS, line of sight. Obstruction of the view of the dish to the sat's.
3. The coax ran from the dish to the receiver. Rg6 is required for full signal, but rg59 may work for an extended amount of time with lower sig.
4. A Bad connector at your ground block, dish, or a barrel. If not tightened properly moisture can enter.

I use a birddog for my hd installs and it does not have the 103 programmed yet. My ranges on the tv screen are 100-94 on 101,110,119 and 103 is never below 90. Your 119 should display the highest sig range, imo.

The 4, 12 and a few other transponders are not being used at this time, so your sig should be 0+ on a few.
Crazy thing about hd is that is very unpredictable at times. I have seen a single zip tie that was too tight cause a H-20 lose Hd channels only at night time. I hope this lil bit of info helped.

Will the hdmi cable that was included with the h20 receiver work as well as a monoprice or other hdmi cable? I've got a 50 inch panasonic plasma 1080p (pz77u). I want to make sure I'm getting the most from the directv box. Also, I'm not sure whether the hdmi cable included is 1.3. Would a 1.3 hdmi cable make a difference? Does the h20 even support a 1.3 hdmi cable? Thanks

HDMI is a digital signal, thus, as long as the signal reaches its destination, it will be fine. Higher quality HDMI cables will only impact runs to the limits of the spec, and in harsh environments, neither of which the average home user will typically encounter.
The H\HR series uses HDMI 1.1, I would simply use the free cable it came with, and spend your money to buy a celebratory drink for your new HD combo.

spend your money to buy a celebratory drink for your new HD combo.
Just don't go to the zoo afterwords with your slingshot at closing time, as a few morons did out here.

I would simply use the free cable it came with, and spend your money to buy a celebratory drink for your new HD combo.

Cheers !

Hey everyone,
Just recently I noticed I wasn't getting the "new" HD channels (i.e. MGMHD) even though I subscribed to them (verified by DTV) and was getting them a few weeks ago, but still can get the "old" HD channels (i.e. ESPNH). I have an H20 100 and I get a message saying "searching for satellite signal...771. I called DTV and they went thru their checks and suggested I climb up on the roof to check the connections. That doesn't seem correct to me since I can get the old HD channels. They also mentioned the service plan (which I was unaware of) for $6 a month or pay a $70 service call. I've done the reset and pulled the card. Any ideas where my problem is and what is the opinion about the service plan.

Thanks,
DZ

UPDATE
DTV came out today and the tech diconnected something on the coax coming from the wall - diopter? - he said they were initially installing them but now they are shorting out and causing problems - and realigned the dish, now I'm getting all my HD channels.

Thanks for all the suggestions,
DZ

UPDATE
DTV came out today and the tech diconnected something on the coax coming from the wall - diopter? - he said they were initially installing them but now they are shorting out and causing problems - and realigned the dish, now I'm getting all my HD channels.

Thanks for all the suggestions,
DZ

The filter prior to the box? Gray in color about 4 inches long?

Doug

I have one and mine works fine. It is the B-Band Converter, right?

UPDATE
DTV came out today and the tech diconnected something on the coax coming from the wall - diopter? - he said they were initially installing them but now they are shorting out and causing problems - and realigned the dish, now I'm getting all my HD channels.

Thanks for all the suggestions,
DZThe device removed was likely a 'Diplexer' which is used to run an over the air antenna on the same coax as the sat feed, a kind of splitter if you like.

Oh I get it. I would imagine that the BBC is still much needed..

The device removed was likely a 'Diplexer' which is used to run an over the air antenna on the same coax as the sat feed, a kind of splitter if you like.


That's it, Snuffy, diplexer, not diopter

Thanks,
DZ

Has anyone had any success connecting the H20 to a computer monitor using an HDMI to DVI cable? It worked the first time I tried it, but now the monitor just says no signal. I've tried two different monitors (both 1680x1050 22" LCD's), and after switching some things around it worked and then I changed the setup and lost it again. Tried the original setup and it doesn't work again. The only time I can get a picture is after i reset the H20 I get the post-rest startup screens, but then after the "a few more moments" screen everthing disappears and I'm back to "no signal" accoding to either monitor....anyone have any ideas?
thanks!!!

Has anyone had any success connecting the H20 to a computer monitor using an HDMI to DVI cable? It worked the first time I tried it, but now the monitor just says no signal. I've tried two different monitors (both 1680x1050 22" LCD's), and after switching some things around it worked and then I changed the setup and lost it again. Tried the original setup and it doesn't work again. The only time I can get a picture is after i reset the H20 I get the post-rest startup screens, but then after the "a few more moments" screen everthing disappears and I'm back to "no signal" accoding to either monitor....anyone have any ideas?
thanks!!!Sounds like a HDCP handshake issue. If your monitor is not HDCP compliant, it's not supposed to work with HDMI or DVI.

Sounds like a HDCP handshake issue. If your monitor is not HDCP compliant, it's not supposed to work with HDMI or DVI.
Both monitors are HDCP compliant. Both monitors work with the HR21.

I have the three lnb dish now. Care less about local OTA channels...in HD (not yet avail) or reg analog. I am 7 miles from towers so OTA works FINE
Is it REQUIRED that you install the NEW 5 LNB dish to get ALL the HD channels presently available? (85) IF I dont have to replace the 3 head unit I wont spend the money and teh new dish needs to get installed 'higher' right?

PLEASE get back to me at my email addy-I dont necessarily visit her
often ;-(

FWIW I am getting FOUR new H21 receivers to replace my aging fleet ;-)

kctobyjoe1@verizon.net OR kctobyjoe@gmail.com

I have the three lnb dish now. Care less about local OTA channels...in HD (not yet avail) or reg analog. I am 7 miles from towers so OTA works FINE
Is it REQUIRED that you install the NEW 5 LNB dish to get ALL the HD channels presently available? (85) IF I dont have to replace the 3 head unit I wont spend the money and teh new dish needs to get installed 'higher' right?

PLEASE get back to me at my email addy-I dont necessarily visit her
often ;-(

FWIW I am getting FOUR new H21 receivers to replace my aging fleet ;-)

kctobyjoe1@verizon.net OR kctobyjoe@gmail.com

Yes you need the 5 LNB dish for the new HD channels as they come from the 103 Ka SAT.

I have the three lnb dish now. Care less about local OTA channels...in HD (not yet avail) or reg analog. I am 7 miles from towers so OTA works FINE
Is it REQUIRED that you install the NEW 5 LNB dish to get ALL the HD channels presently available? (85) IF I dont have to replace the 3 head unit I wont spend the money and teh new dish needs to get installed 'higher' right?

PLEASE get back to me at my email addy-I dont necessarily visit her
often ;-(

FWIW I am getting FOUR new H21 receivers to replace my aging fleet ;-)

kctobyjoe1@verizon.net OR kctobyjoe@gmail.com

It is likely that D* will replace the 3 LNB dish with the new Slimline w/o charge. It does not need to be installed higher off the ground, if that's what you mean. But, the new Slimline requires a new mount.

Be aware that the new H21 receivers do not have OTA capability.

Dana

I e-mailed DirecTV with a question, which they answered quite well. As part of the return e-mail they included the following sentences. "I’ve also got good news! Based on your history with us, you qualify for a free HD upgrade. This upgrade will ensure that you can get the newest HD channels that are available now and that are coming up in the next few months." What is a free? HD upgrade and what is it actually going to cost me. Does this mean a two year commitment? What upgrade do I need. I currently have two H20-100 tuners that I'm OK with and a huge AT9 dish. I have occasional pixelation, but nothing to get exited about. What gets updated?

I e-mailed DirecTV with a question, which they answered quite well. As part of the return e-mail they included the following sentences. "I’ve also got good news! Based on your history with us, you qualify for a free HD upgrade. This upgrade will ensure that you can get the newest HD channels that are available now and that are coming up in the next few months." What is a free? HD upgrade and what is it actually going to cost me. Does this mean a two year commitment? What upgrade do I need. I currently have two H20-100 tuners that I'm OK with and a huge AT9 dish. I have occasional pixelation, but nothing to get exited about. What gets updated?

Most likely the dish gets changed to the Slimline. As for new commitments, ask them.

Dana

I e-mailed DirecTV with a question, which they answered quite well. As part of the return e-mail they included the following sentences. "I’ve also got good news! Based on your history with us, you qualify for a free HD upgrade. This upgrade will ensure that you can get the newest HD channels that are available now and that are coming up in the next few months." What is a free? HD upgrade and what is it actually going to cost me. Does this mean a two year commitment? What upgrade do I need. I currently have two H20-100 tuners that I'm OK with and a huge AT9 dish. I have occasional pixelation, but nothing to get exited about. What gets updated?
They're trying to phase out the MPEG-2 HD users.
You already have everything you need. "I think" this was part of a blanket emailing. "Free" would be the H21-200 which doesn't really do anything yours doesn't [OK it has coax audio out that yours doesn't] and it has no OTA tuner if you use an antenna.
If you want another non-DVR and don't mind starting your 2 year commitment, it might be worth a call. Maybe you can leverage a HR21-700 DVR out of them.

Most likely the dish gets changed to the Slimline. As for new commitments, ask them.

Dana

If the levels are good, there is no need for a slimline. There is nothing the AU9 does that the AT9 doesn't [yet]. There is some information about a Slimline SWM dish coming out, but it hasn't even started field testing yet.

I e-mailed DirecTV with a question, which they answered quite well. As part of the return e-mail they included the following sentences. "I’ve also got good news! Based on your history with us, you qualify for a free HD upgrade. This upgrade will ensure that you can get the newest HD channels that are available now and that are coming up in the next few months." What is a free? HD upgrade and what is it actually going to cost me. Does this mean a two year commitment? What upgrade do I need. I currently have two H20-100 tuners that I'm OK with and a huge AT9 dish. I have occasional pixelation, but nothing to get exited about. What gets updated?

Wow... and here I am paying $69 (orig. $99) for an H20 (or H21) and a 5LNB upgrade! Anyway, you will need the 5LNB dish to get all the new HD channels. They will sign you into another 2 year contract, at the same time. The lowest they go on the HD DVR boxes right now is $199 ... good luck!

Wow... and here I am paying $69 (orig. $99) for an H20 (or H21) and a 5LNB upgrade! Anyway, you will need the 5LNB dish to get all the new HD channels. They will sign you into another 2 year contract, at the same time. The lowest they go on the HD DVR boxes right now is $199 ... good luck!

The AT9 IS a 5 lnb dish and the H20-100 is MPEG-4 so there is NOTHING more needed.

Thank you VOS I knew you would have the answer I was seeking. Just a come on to get me commited for another two years.

The HR-XX are 2 year commitments and and the H-XX are 1 year.

The AT9 IS a 5 lnb dish and the H20-100 is MPEG-4 so there is NOTHING more needed.

Yes, presumably, you are correct. Sounds like DirecTv might be trying just to lock you in for another 2 years ...

The HR-XX are 2 year commitments and and the H-XX are 1 year.

I just upgraded to an H-XX and the commitment is 2 years.

They're trying to phase out the MPEG-2 HD users.
You already have everything you need. "I think" this was part of a blanket emailing. "Free" would be the H21-200 which doesn't really do anything yours doesn't [OK it has coax audio out that yours doesn't] and it has no OTA tuner if you use an antenna.
If you want another non-DVR and don't mind starting your 2 year commitment, it might be worth a call. Maybe you can leverage a HR21-700 DVR out of them.
They are giving away H21's?
I've been having problems connecting my H20 to an LCD monitor using HDMI-DVI (tried two different cables and two different monitors), the H20 still works fine via HDMI to my TV, and my HR21 works fine through bother HDMI-DVI cables to both monitors. Maybe I should see if they'll let me trade my H20 for an H21, I have to imagine there are lots of people who still want OTA who would like to get a refurb H20...

They are giving away H21's?
I've been having problems connecting my H20 to an LCD monitor using HDMI-DVI (tried two different cables and two different monitors), the H20 still works fine via HDMI to my TV, and my HR21 works fine through bother HDMI-DVI cables to both monitors. Maybe I should see if they'll let me trade my H20 for an H21, I have to imagine there are lots of people who still want OTA who would like to get a refurb H20...
"Almost" I'd say for the long time customers [in good standing] to get them to move to the MPEG-4 receivers. If you're having problems [I'm surprised as they both trying to run the same software], it wouldn't hurt to give them a call and see if you can get transferred beyond level one CSRs.

I just upgraded to an H-XX and the commitment is 2 years.

Yes, the one year commitment is for SD receivers and all HD [H/HR 20/21] have the two year.

They are giving away H21's?
I've been having problems connecting my H20 to an LCD monitor using HDMI-DVI (tried two different cables and two different monitors), the H20 still works fine via HDMI to my TV, and my HR21 works fine through bother HDMI-DVI cables to both monitors. Maybe I should see if they'll let me trade my H20 for an H21, I have to imagine there are lots of people who still want OTA who would like to get a refurb H20...

Try some quality components ...

in the meantime, I'm going to see what box I get next week and proceed from there ...

Hello, first post here!!

I've been having LOTS of trouble with Directv h20-100 recivers. Ordered HD, they came out in October and replaced my dish with a 5lnb, gave me a h20 and all was well for a little bit. Then my trouble started to happen, the reciver would display 771 and multiswitch problem completly at random. 1st service call and they replaces the switch, all ok for a week or so, then same message appeared again Directv came out and replaced the reciver. All was good untill before Christmas, I got the same messages, a call to Directv, another srevice call, they determined another bad reciver. 10 days ago same problem, another service call, this time the tech replaced all the cable fittings, programed a reciver and this one would not display and video other than the built in channels. So he went to his truck and got another, he programed this one and off he went.

Last week this reciver would just stop displaying anything, you could push the power button, that light would go off but the resoultion light would stay lit. The only way to get the reciever to turn back on was to unplug it, and that would only work on the 3rd or 4th try. Another call to Directv, same guy came out and replaced the Lnb's and the ground block, said all was good, but he did leave the ground to the multiswitch unhooked, said not needed!! He replaced the receiver again, all was ok untill last night, now we are getting message 771 at random. All this happends in the evining, but that when were home to notice it. I'm going crazy over this, I've tried swaping cables, recevier placement in the room, tried everything I could come up with to no end, any help will be much appericated!

A little info on my setup, all the Directv receivers are refurbished H20-100's......Directv reciver to Harmon/Kardon AVR247 via HDMI, then 247 to SamsungFP-T5084 Plasma via HDMI

tufamc,

Welcome to the AVS Forum and this thread for your first post! Sorry it had to involve problems.

I have an H20-100. No problems. Here's a thought. Have the installers replaced the BBCs on the back of the receiver when they've replaced the receivers? I have read that those little gray boxes can be troublesome. If the coax pigtails that are permanently attached to them are loose, it may indicate a broken connection inside.

The H21s (I have two of them.) are coming through with a different BBC in a different package - no cardboard box - to keep those pigtails from being bent excessively.

Just a thought.

DIRECTV (BBC) B-Band Converter
http://www.satpro.tv/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=255

Dana

Yes they replaced the little grey box, b-band conveter every time!!

I just successfully setup my HR20-100 from IR to RF. I was just told by D* tech CSR that the HR20-100 comes with the RF antenna & remote but the H20-100, that's in another room, does not. :mad: The H20-100 does have a RF antenna input jack on the rear (no antenna in the box) but the D* CSR says you must buy the RF remote & antenna as an optional add-on for the H20-100. :mad: Is this true? :confused:

I just successfully setup my HR20-100 from IR to RF. I was just told by D* tech CSR that the HR20-100 comes with the RF antenna & remote but the H20-100, that's in another room, does not. :mad: The H20-100 does have a RF antenna input jack on the rear (no antenna in the box) but the D* CSR says you must buy the RF remote & antenna as an optional add-on for the H20-100. :mad: Is this true? :confused:

I have received in recent months, D11-500 standard receivers, H20-600 HD (refurb) receivers, a new H20-100 HD receiver and two new H21-200 HD receivers. All came with RC64 IR remotes.

Apparently, the H21s have RF antennas built-in. The RF remotes are sold separately.

Dana

My history:
H20-600 [new] came with antenna and RC 24 [RF] remote.
H20-100 [new] came with the same.
H20-600 refurb.. no RF remote.
Replacement HR20.. no RF remote.
H21-200 [new] RC 64 IR only remote.
HR21 RC 64R [RF] remote.

There used to be an RC 32RF [kit, which had a separate p/n] that came with an antenna too. I got D* to send me one for free.

tufamc,

"All this happends in the evening, ..."

When I switched from Dish Networks to DirecTV, I got pixelation and lost signals. After more than a week, I realized that problem happened in the evening only and found the dimmers made that interference when I dimmed the light. I am not sure whether you have the same as mine. Just giving my experience.

I have received in recent months, D11-500 standard receivers, H20-600 HD (refurb) receivers, a new H20-100 HD receiver and two new H21-200 HD receivers. All came with RC64 IR remotes.

Apparently, the H21s have RF antennas built-in. The RF remotes are sold separately.

Dana

Thanks, Dana. I don't have a H/HR21, I have a HR20-100 & H20-100. Further info: The remote that came with my HR20-100 (with the RF antenna) is a RC64R. The remote that came with my H20-100 (with RF antenna input jack on the receiver but no antenna in the box) is a RC32. Apparently D* is sending me a RC64R with the RF antenna for my H20-100.

tufamc,

"All this happends in the evening, ..."

When I switched from Dish Networks to DirecTV, I got pixelation and lost signals. After more than a week, I realized that problem happened in the evening only and found the dimmers made that interference when I dimmed the light. I am sure whether you have the same as mine. Just giving my experience.

Very interesting, I will try this tonight, thanks.

tufamc,

"All this happends in the evening, ..."

When I switched from Dish Networks to DirecTV, I got pixelation and lost signals. After more than a week, I realized that problem happened in the evening only and found the dimmers made that interference when I dimmed the light. I am not sure whether you have the same as mine. Just giving my experience.

Just so everyone knows, this post SOLVED my problem, as it turns out my dimmer for the dining room will cause the searching for singal 771 to appear, but only when the dimmer is at 75% or lower THANK YOU!!!

Any suggestions on how to cure this? New switch???

Mu h21 locks up daily. I have to unplug and replug.

Any ideas?

Just so everyone knows, this post SOLVED my problem, as it turns out my dimmer for the dining room will cause the searching for singal 771 to appear, but only when the dimmer is at 75% or lower THANK YOU!!!

Any suggestions on how to cure this? New switch???One thing to check is, see if your RG-6 coax is running close to and parallel to any of your house wiring, particularly wiring for your lighting. Separate as much as possible. I got rid of all dimmers in my house a couple of years ago, because they were putting out so much interference I couldn’t listen to my shortwave AM radio. Those things are powerful little RF generators/transmitters. Just how the FCC let these little devils get out to the public, is beyond me.

Edit: One dimmer that has been mentioned by radio amateurs, as having less interference is Lutron model N-600.

New to the D* but I have the h21-200 and had comcast before. But on HD channels I have never had bars on the HD channels.
On animal planet hd i have small black barson the side. Ss its 1080i but does not fit screen.

I just curious as to why. Others like hbo HD are fine.

New to the D* but I have the h21-200 and had comcast before. But on HD channels I have never had bars on the HD channels.
On animal planet hd i have small black barson the side. Ss its 1080i but does not fit screen.

I just curious as to why. Others like hbo HD are fine.

Perhaps the Comcast receiver was set to stretch the image? Or it had a tendency to overscan. My display is a 1080p 16:9 with 1:1 pixel mapping and it's common for the image on the screen to change somewhat, depending on the channel I'm watching on D*. I'm seeing exactly what's being broadcast. Some TVs have an overscan of a few pixels to cover up the rough edges.

Movie channels often have black bars here and there, since the size of the film image isn't exactly 16:9.

Dana

makes sense thanks.

Hello, first post here!!

I've been having LOTS of trouble with Directv h20-100 recivers...

to SamsungFP-T5084 Plasma via HDMI

I've had an H20 since August 2006. Total piece of crap. I called D* so many times I added them to my auto dialer. I've reset my HD20 so many times I made a spreadsheet so I know which channels to program. The really tricky thing D* does is commits you to a two year lease when you buy a HD20. You can read my past posts to see how satisfied I've been.

The people of this conference - THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU - convinced me I had a setup problem. I called D* and told them about the group analysis and told them it was their last chance to do something. Interestingly enough, since I'd complained so much for so long they took me seriously. The tech showed up, reset my 5 LNB antenna and admitted whoever did it the first time didn't know what they were doing. He also said my HD20-600 was known as a piece of crap and replaced it with a HD21-200. I've only been using the "new" system for a couple of days but it seems as if it fixed all my problems. It even survived a moderate rain storm w/o a lengthy black out.

I hate to be the whining SOB but in this case it seemed to work. I suggest you create a track record so D* will finally fix the problem. Happy Viewing!

I've had an H20 since August 2006. Total piece of crap. I called D* so many times I added them to my auto dialer. I've reset my HD20 so many times I made a spreadsheet so I know which channels to program. The really tricky thing D* does is commits you to a two year lease when you buy a HD20. You can read my past posts to see how satisfied I've been.

The people of this conference - THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU - convinced me I had a setup problem. I called D* and told them about the group analysis and told them it was their last chance to do something. Interestingly enough, since I'd complained so much for so long they took me seriously. The tech showed up, reset my 5 LNB antenna and admitted whoever did it the first time didn't know what they were doing. He also said my HD20-600 was known as a piece of crap and replaced it with a HD21-200. I've only been using the "new" system for a couple of days but it seems as if it fixed all my problems. It even survived a moderate rain storm w/o a lengthy black out.

I hate to be the whining SOB but in this case it seemed to work. I suggest you create a track record so D* will finally fix the problem. Happy Viewing!

Well ... guess I know to keep an eye out for that box ... is it a TiVo box? I'm getting a "regular" MPEG4 box, which one? I do not know yet ...

Well ... guess I know to keep an eye out for that box ... is it a TiVo box? I'm getting a "regular" MPEG4 box, which one? I do not know yet ...

The H21-200 has been out for months now. There is no OTA tuner and it's made by Samsung. Your "regular" MPEG-4 box would be this. TiVo makes recorders not receivers and there are NO TiVo DirecTV MPEG-4 boxes.

Another humungous thread. I have just one question. I have to choose between upgrading my Sony SAT HD-200 to a newer stb or switch to Fios. My Sony does a decent job of upscaling sd to 1080I which is great for giant screen front projection but the Motorola 6416 from fios apparantly only sends out native 480I for sd which looks like crap. Does the new Directv HD boxes still send out 1080I for everything when set to 1080I? My projector does not up convert. It only displays what it receives. Thanks,

Chip

Another humungous thread. I have just one question. I have to choose between upgrading my Sony SAT HD-200 to a newer stb or switch to Fios. My Sony does a decent job of upscaling sd to 1080I which is great for giant screen front projection but the Motorola 6416 from fios apparantly only sends out native 480I for sd which looks like crap. Does the new Directv HD boxes still send out 1080I for everything when set to 1080I? My projector does not up convert. It only displays what it receives. Thanks,

Chip

The H20 and the newer H21 HD receivers provide a lot of flexibility. You can set the resolution so that everything is delivered to your display in 1080i if you wish. :cool:

Doing a little Googling, I realize now that the Moto 6416 is a HD DVR cable box. What I said above also applies to the HR20/21 D* DVR boxes, too.

Dana

I posted way back in this thread on this topic and wanted to provide a clarification and correction. I own various OTA tuners including the LG 3rd, 4th, and now 5th gen tuners as well as the Samsung 260 tuner. I am in the deep fringe with signals ranging from 65-140 miles away from me. My main source for OTA is Knoxville, TN at 65 miles and over a mountain south of me so I do not have LOS.

The 5th gen LG tuner in the H20-600 is noticeably superior in long-distance OTA reception to the LG 3rd and 4th gen and at least comparable if not slightly better than the Samsung. The results have been consistent and reproducible over time (around 1 mos since I switched back due to MPEG4 upgrade with D*).

This is a "newer" HR20-600 and the one I used for my prior report is now on a different TV which doesn't utilize OTA. I don't know if my earlier less-favorable results were due to this or just due to variable conditions and lack of longer term test results. Anyhow, I wanted to clarify this as my earlier report of lower performance would seem to now be conflicting and in error.

Both of my H20-600's run warm to the touch but I leave them on constantly anyway (with adequate ventilation) and haven't had any problems yet.

Is there a general consensus on whether to have Native turned on or off? I have heard that if you have a fairly new TV, to turn Native on because the TV probably does a better job upconverting the signal than the HR20. Any help is appreciated.

Is there a general consensus on whether to have Native turned on or off? I have heard that if you have a fairly new TV, to turn Native on because the TV probably does a better job upconverting the signal than the HR20. Any help is appreciated.
It depends on the TV - old or new. My TV scales very well, so I leave Native on. There are plenty of brand new TVs out there that suck at it while some older models are excellent. I seem to remember hearing about handshaking issues with the Sharp Aquos models when running in native mode, for example (though I could be confused with another issue with them).

I keep native off since it just adds to the delay in changing channels when the source resolution changes and the STB and TV need to resync to the new resolution.

I keep native off since it just adds to the delay in changing channels when the source resolution changes and the STB and TV need to resync to the new resolution.

So do I. You can try it both ways but I think the D* H20/21 boxes (I have both.) do a good job of upconverting.

Dana

This is why native has an "on/off" function. I use it because my TV does a better job scaling than the H20/21 does. YMMV.:)

I leave "native" on because my HR20-100 feeds via HDMI into my Integra DTR-8.8 A/V receiver which has a HQV Reon video processor and it is widely accepted as better than most all TV processors and the one included in the D* receivers. The 8.8/Reon then feeds HDMI to my Sony XBR2 70" at 1080p so the Sony doesn't have to do anything but pass it out. :)

Is there a general consensus on whether to have Native turned on or off? I have heard that if you have a fairly new TV, to turn Native on because the TV probably does a better job upconverting the signal than the HR20. Any help is appreciated.

Look at an HD basketball game or an HD tennis match. If you see jaggies on the lines on the court then something can be improved upon. Experiment with either letting the TV do the processing (native on the H20) or letting the H20 scale/deinterlace to match as close as possible to your display's native resolution and see which shows less artifacting.

My experience tells me that most newer relatively high quality sets will do the better job. The drawback to Native will be added channel changing delays as the change in resolution forces an HDMI handshake.

I'd personally like a D* box with a Reon HQV or equivalent chip in it to scale to 1080p. This would provide a second option with faster channel changing via HDMI.

Got my MPEG4 box today ... :drumroll: ... it's an H21-200! The tech told me it's an excellent box with few problems. He added that little box in the back (B band converter?) that everyone's been complaining about. He said the grey ones are known for having problems, but the black one he was using would perform just fine.

My biggest peeve is the lack of DVI support. Sure, it's not popular, but it really leaves many early adopters in an akward position. I guess I'll go back to components, but I feel like I can see a difference. Maybe it's me, maybe I'll get used to it ...

Second, there's no LCD display on the box. No biggie, I guess.

Third, no antenna support. Sure, I get some of my locals digitally through the box, but not all of them ... which is a little concerning. I actually LOST channels by switching to this box. PBS, in my area, has over 5 digital channels I used to get by using my OTA (Channels 2-1, 2-2, 2-3, 2-4, and 2-5). My new box doesn't pick these up. Many of the "new channels" I've received are just "HD" versions of the previous channels, and much of the programming is not Full 1080 HD (it's cropped with the bars on the side of the screen). Guess I'm going to have to buy this:

http://www.engadgethd.com/2008/01/09/directv-intros-two-atsc-tuner-am21-to-piggyback-hr21/

I have noticed a bit of a lag from time to time between audio/video. I am using an optical connection for digital audio. Anyone else experience this?

I'm hoping to explore some of the positive features of this box later on ... thanks for any tips/info!

If you don't want to wait for the AM21 tuner reported by Engadget, you might try to get an H20 receiver and return the one you have for credit. Costco has been rumored to still have them. That has an OTA antenna input. Personally, I'd keep the H21 and wait for the AM21.

I use an HDMI>DVI adapter to connect to my display. It works perfectly, a pin for pin match for video.

The side bars are not related to whether the programming is in 1080. Go here for more info http://www.highdefdigest.com/news/show/High-Def_FAQ/Joshua_Zyber/High-Def_FAQ:_Why_Dont_the_Black_Bars_Go_Away/764

Enjoy!

Dana

Agreeded, just get a HDMI->DVI cable and you'll be good, there are some at http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10231

If you don't want to wait for the AM21 tuner reported by Engadget, you might try to get an H20 receiver and return the one you have for credit. Costco has been rumored to still have them. That has an OTA antenna input. Personally, I'd keep the H21 and wait for the AM21.

I use an HDMI>DVI adapter to connect to my display. It works perfectly, a pin for pin match for video.

The side bars are not related to whether the programming is in 1080. Go here for more info http://www.highdefdigest.com/news/show/High-Def_FAQ/Joshua_Zyber/High-Def_FAQ:_Why_Dont_the_Black_Bars_Go_Away/764

Enjoy!

Dana

Thanks! I was wondering ... should an HDMI to DVI connection be better than components? Also, would the audio still be output through the Optical even if I have an HDMI (to DVI) cable connected to the H21?

Thanks! I was wondering ... should an HDMI to DVI connection be better than components? Also, would the audio still be output through the Optical even if I have an HDMI (to DVI) cable connected to the H21?

"Should"? yes, since it's digital. Can you see a difference? Maybe not.
Optical is always active.

"Should"? yes, since it's digital. Can you see a difference? Maybe not.
Optical is always active.

Just the answer I was expecting ... I know we are able of convincing ourselves as to what we see ... or think we see ...

I just bought a H20 off of craigslist to receive local HD and I have a new antenna that will pick up stations 65 miles away. Anyways my question is I have plugged my antenna into the H20 and I am not getting local stations showing up yet. I ran the search and found all the locals but still not pick. I am not going to sign up for DirectTv as I just want local OTA so any help here is appreciated.

Sorry, you have to activate the receiver for the tuner to work. This has been true since the H10 I believe.

how do I activate the receiver? Will I have to pay for service then?

The H series DirecTV receivers will not function as a stand-alone OTA tuner, you need to have a DirecTV subscription, and HD access.


how do I activate the receiver? Will I have to pay for service then?

That is not good as I just bouth this receiver just for this reason to use as a stand alone tuner for OTA.

The samsung 260 is almost as good and pretty reasonable.
The Hughes HTL-HD/LG-ls3100/Sony Sat 300 are all the same box and all contain 4th gen LG OTA tuners which don't require activation.

The samsung 260 is almost as good and pretty reasonable.
The Hughes HTL-HD/LG-ls3100/Sony Sat 300 are all the same box and all contain 4th gen LG OTA tuners which don't require activation.

You may mean the Samsung SIR-TS360. I owned one and it was pretty good OTA. It needs a D* access card to function OTA as I recall but doesn't need to be activated with D*.

Dana

You may mean the Samsung SIR-TS360. I owned one and it was pretty good OTA. It needs a D* access card to function OTA as I recall but doesn't need to be activated with D*.

Dana

No, I meant the new Samsung 260 OTA/QAM tuner. It's the second best IMO going right now for long distance (second to the 5th gen LG in the H20-600).
See:http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=728392

This morning, my H20-100 was automatically updated to 0x404A firmware with the so-called white GUI. It now responds quicker and the “native bug” is fixed. The search function now acts correctly. Now, if they will just leave it alone. :cool:

I have a learning universal remote that controls everything except my DirectTV HD HR20-700. For some reason my remote won't correctly learn the DirectTV IR signal. Does the DirectTV remote us RF instead of IR? I got the universal to take the IR signal but it turns my display off and on instead of the DVR. ?? If I cover the DirectTV remote under a blanket it still controls the DVR so I assume it is also using RF. Anyone know how to get a universal control to work the Direct TV DVR remote? If you have a link here that would be great. I can't seem to get the search engine to work since the site went down. Hope I posted this in the right place.
Thanks--

I have a learning universal remote that controls everything except my DirectTV HD HR20-700. For some reason my remote won't correctly learn the DirectTV IR signal. Does the DirectTV remote us RF instead of IR? I got the universal to take the IR signal but it turns my display off and on instead of the DVR. ?? If I cover the DirectTV remote under a blanket it still controls the DVR so I assume it is also using RF. Anyone know how to get a universal control to work the Direct TV DVR remote? If you have a link here that would be great. I can't seem to get the search engine to work since the site went down. Hope I posted this in the right place.
Thanks--The DirectTV HD remotes and HD boxes can be set to either RF or IR. Check the setup menu under "remote".

How do those updates roll out and when can I expect mine?

How do those updates roll out and when can I expect mine?

They usually rollout to all customers within 30 days, maybe as short as 2 weeks. The software will download automatically at night (usually 1:00am-3:00am).

The DirectTV HD remotes and HD boxes can be set to either RF or IR. Check the setup menu under "remote".

Followed instructions. Remote no longer responds at all. If I can get it to send IR signals I can get my universal to learn them.

And ideas?:confused:

They usually rollout to all customers within 30 days, maybe as short as 2 weeks. The software will download automatically at night (usually 1:00am-3:00am).

What if you turn your H20 "off" at night (no lights)? Is it really on "standby" and will it get the upgrade in that state?

It is really on standby. Only the lights and outputs are turned off.

What if you turn your H20 "off" at night (no lights)? Is it really on "standby" and will it get the upgrade in that state?

It is really on standby. Only the lights and outputs are turned off.

Thanks.

JeffBowser-

To get locals in HD, you do NOT need the D* HD access, just a valid subscription.

I get all of my locals that have HD just fine, and I don't subscribe to the price-gouging HD Access Service with D*.

Then you are lucky. OTA HD access requires HD access subscription from DirecTV. It has always been this way, but with the most recent firmware, they have started enforcing it.

It is rumored there are ways around it, but I will not recommend ways to violate user agreements.

"Price-gouging" is a matter of perspective.

JeffBowser-

To get locals in HD, you do NOT need the D* HD access, just a valid subscription.

I get all of my locals that have HD just fine, and I don't subscribe to the price-gouging HD Access Service with D*.

I paid about $600 for my Samsung TS-160 about 4 years ago, so I haven't been all that excited to upgrade my STB (since I only have 1 HD display).

Recently I started researching what's needed. I already have the 5lnb dish, since I moved. I was shocked that the H20 is nolonger available (according to BB online).

-So the only other option is the H21?
-If there is no OTA tuner in the H21, how do I get local HD channels? are they part of the HD package I'm already getting (with the TS-160), only I can't view them because they're on a different bird?
-will I get every channel that I'm currently receiving (ESPN, ESPN2, HBO, SHO, HDNet, HDNetM, Disc, Univ, TNT, CBSE, FOXE)?
-do I need to upgrade my HD package at all? what channels will I be missing if I don't upgrade HD package?

I really like the TS-160, not sure if the H21 is for me, and is the lack of OTA tuner a deal breaker?

Thanks!

I paid about $600 for my Samsung TS-160 about 4 years ago, so I haven't been all that excited to upgrade my STB (since I only have 1 HD display).

Recently I started researching what's needed. I already have the 5lnb dish, since I moved. I was shocked that the H20 is no longer available (according to BB online).

-So the only other option is the H21?
-If there is no OTA tuner in the H21, how do I get local HD channels? are they part of the HD package I'm already getting (with the TS-160), only I can't view them because they're on a different bird?
-will I get every channel that I'm currently receiving (ESPN, ESPN2, HBO, SHO, HDNet, HDNetM, Disc, Univ, TNT, CBSE, FOXE)?
-do I need to upgrade my HD package at all? what channels will I be missing if I don't upgrade HD package?

I really like the TS-160, not sure if the H21 is for me, and is the lack of OTA tuner a deal breaker?

Thanks!

You can go to the D* web site, enter your ZIP code and check availability of local HD channels on satellite. If you need OTA capability, the H20s are still available. Here for instance http://www.solidsignal.com/prod_display.asp?prod=H20

Dana

-So the only other option is the H21?
That's pretty much the only thing D* is shipping. Local installers may have HR20's, but there's no guarantee.

-If there is no OTA tuner in the H21, how do I get local HD channels?Two ways:
1) If you're local market is up on D*, you can get them via satellite.
2) Wait a few weeks and the AM21 will be available. That is an OTA tuner box for the HR21 - it plugs into the USB port on the back.
are they part of the HD package I'm already getting (with the TS-160), only I can't view them because they're on a different bird?
They're MPEG4 - your receiver can't receive them. If your market is available on D* and you subscribe to your local package and the HD pack, you'll automatically get the HD channels.
-will I get every channel that I'm currently receiving (ESPN, ESPN2, HBO, SHO, HDNet, HDNetM, Disc, Univ, TNT, CBSE, FOXE)?
Those and many more - however, the ones you listed will still be MPEG2 for the time being.
-do I need to upgrade my HD package at all? what channels will I be missing if I don't upgrade HD package?
You only have to upgrade your HD package if you want the extra pack, which includes 5 channels, including HDNet Movies, MGMHD, UniversalHD, MHD and one other channel I can't remember at the moment. If you're receiving them now without paying for the extra pack, they'll go away when you upgrade. However, every other channel (except for the 5 "extra" channels) is included in the base HD fee you're already paying.

So, if you only pay the bas $10 HD fee, you'll lose HDnet Movies and Universal HD (that you receive now), but gain other networks like SciFi, USA, Food Network, Animal Planet, Cartoon Network and a bunch of others. To keep HDNet and Universal HD (and gain MGMHD, etc.), you'll need to pay an extra $5. So, you'll pay $15 total.

I really like the TS-160, not sure if the H21 is for me, and is the lack of OTA tuner a deal breaker?
The HR21 is fine. The OTA add on tuner will be available within the next month or so. It will be $59.

That's pretty much the only thing D* is shipping. Local installers may have HR20's, but there's no guarantee.

Two ways:
1) If you're local market is up on D*, you can get them via satellite.
2) Wait a few weeks and the AM21 will be available. That is an OTA tuner box for the HR21 - it plugs into the USB port on the back.

They're MPEG4 - your receiver can't receive them. If your market is available on D* and you subscribe to your local package and the HD pack, you'll automatically get the HD channels.

Those and many more - however, the ones you listed will still be MPEG2 for the time being.

You only have to upgrade your HD package if you want the extra pack, which includes 5 channels, including HDNet Movies, MGMHD, UniversalHD, MHD and one other channel I can't remember at the moment. If you're receiving them now without paying for the extra pack, they'll go away when you upgrade. However, every other channel (except for the 5 "extra" channels) is included in the base HD fee you're already paying.

So, if you only pay the bas $10 HD fee, you'll lose HDnet Movies and Universal HD, but gain other networks like SciFi, USA, Food Network, Animal Planet, Cartoon Network and a bunch of others.


The HR21 is fine. The OTA add on tuner will be available within the next month or so. It will be $59.Thank Net

I've no use for the HR21. I'm really trying to avoid the whole DVR thing, for the time being.

I checked my locals available, it's basically just the 4 majors, so I would be losing access to a few from my local OTA.

seems wierd that an old HD channel will drop with the new STB. so you get one of the HDNet channels, but not the other (without upgrading the package):confused: I don't think I could live without HDNetM, so I'll have to upgrade.

I may have to do some looking around for a H20

thanks again!!!

You can go to the D* web site, enter your ZIP code and check availability of local HD channels on satellite. If you need OTA capability, the H20s are still available. Here for instance http://www.solidsignal.com/prod_display.asp?prod=H20

Danathanks, I checked VE and they have it, so I might go that route

Well, this is pretty interesting concerning local channel HD.

I always ASSUMED (me bad) that since I was getting 5-1, 11-1, etc... on my H20 any HD content would appear on the local channels, but I guess this may not be the case. If you do actually have to pay for the HD Package that really sucks and is proof that D* is starting to gouge for things that were once free.

On my old Sammy TS360, you could get HD locals free, no extra HD Package was neccessary. Also, if you subscribed to HBO you would get the HBOHD channel at no charge.

Now you need to subscribe to the HD Pkg. (even if you subscribe to HBO) to get the HBOHD channel on the H20. This really sucks.

Now I see that on channel 5-1 (NBC) the station logo does not say "HD" even though on another TV in my house (1080i w/ a digital tuner) channel 5-1 will have "HD" next to the NBC logo. If this is what D* is doing they are starting to piss a lot of people off and FIOS (if you are lucky and get it) or cable may be the better value in the long run.

That's too bad because D* was about 1/2 the price of cable and was a far-better value not too long ago. Now they are starting to catch-up in price to cable.

So, mine updated at 3 am today. What did the update do?

So, mine updated at 3 am today. What did the update do?

See http://www.dbstalk.com/showthread.php?t=118923

In my last post I was raving about my new HD21. Well...this morning I got up and nothing worked. I called D* who claimed they were working on a s/w upgrade, HDMI would no longer work and I would have install the 3 wire RCA system. Sure enough when I finally got a picture it said, "You'll love the latest upgrade - Fall 2007". I wonder if the next upgrade will reset it to Spring 2007?

You can go to the D* web site, enter your ZIP code and check availability of local HD channels on satellite. If you need OTA capability, the H20s are still available. Here for instance http://www.solidsignal.com/prod_display.asp?prod=H20

Dana

Dana, you may want to completely read your referenced website.......just under the price block, it says: This unit is discontinued and has been replaced by the New H21 HD Receiver

Dana, you may want to completely read your referenced website.......just under the price block, it says: This unit is discontinued and has been replaced by the New H21 HD Receiver

All of which is correct. But, the H20 is still supported - and it has an OTA antenna capability. It's the same concept when you buy a new car at a dealer that happens to be last year's model. :)

Dana

Who makes the tuner in the AM21 add-on?

I am actually getting local HD content on my H20 even though I don't pay for the extra HD package. This has to be true for all subscribers since nothing has changed since my unit was updated last week.

On the D* Channel Guide my local channels will display [HD] when the shows are being broadcast in HD, and the channel logo will also show "HD" next to it when watching the shows.

This was true last night on "Lost" and the picture was identical in another room where I have a 1080i TV with a digital tuner. Both TV's showed "ABCHD"
on the chanel logo in the lower-right of the picture.

i just received the new software update here in the Los Angeles area with my h20-100. :)

I have a H20 HD Receiver connecting using HDMI to my Samsung LN-T4061F. I was wondering how should I set my settings for the H20 box? Currently on the H20 settings I have:

Native: On
Screen Format: Pillar Box
TV Ratio: Widescreen 16:9
TV Resolution: 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i are all checked.

On the Samsung TV I set the Size to: Just Scan. (should I set it to 16:9?)

Are these the best settings for displaying my HD?

Thanks

Eddy

I have a H20 HD Receiver connecting using HDMI to my Samsung LN-T4061F. I was wondering how should I set my settings for the H20 box? Currently on the H20 settings I have:

Native: On
Screen Format: Pillar Box
TV Ratio: Widescreen 16:9
TV Resolution: 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i are all checked.

On the Samsung TV I set the Size to: Just Scan. (should I set it to 16:9?)

Are these the best settings for displaying my HD?

Thanks

Eddy

Your settings indicate that you think your TV will upscale the incoming resolutions to 1080p, the native resolution of your TV, better than the H20. That may be true but the alternative is to turn Native off, and select 1080i which will cause the H20 to upconvert to 1080i so your TV will have only to process the incoming signal to 1080p.

Whatever looks better to you is better. The other advantage of turning Native off is a faster sync between the H20 and your TV when you change channels.

I can't comment on the Samsung TV internal settings since I am not familiar with that TV.

Dana

Your settings indicate that you think your TV will upscale the incoming resolutions to 1080p, the native resolution of your TV, better than the H20. That may be true but the alternative is to turn Native off, and select 1080i which will cause the H20 to upconvert to 1080i so your TV will have only to process the incoming signal to 1080p.

Whatever looks better to you is better. The other advantage of turning Native off is a faster sync between the H20 and your TV when you change channels.

I can't comment on the Samsung TV internal settings since I am not familiar with that TV.

Dana

Alright I changed my Native setting to Off. So far I can't tell the difference in image quality between it being On or Off. So I guess I'll leave it Off if an advantage is faster sync.

Thanks for the help.

Is there a way to "force" the H20-100 to download the new software or must I wait for D* to decide when they want to send it to me? If it can be forced, how do you do it? Thanks

How do I find out my latest software version for the H20?

And what is the latest version?

[QUOTE=bolo00911;13057583]How do I find out my latest software version for the H20?

And what is the latest version?[/ using your remote you need to press menu go up to settings then setup then info and test and finally scroll down to where you will see the original version past upgrade etc etc and for me the latest version is 0x100.. ?? i will check later

[QUOTE=bolo00911;13057583]How do I find out my latest software version for the H20?

And what is the latest version?[/ using your remote you need to press menu go up to settings then setup then info and test and finally scroll down to where you will see the original version past upgrade etc etc and for me the latest version is 0x100.. ?? i will check later

Cool thanks.

Mine shows:
Original Ver: 0xF14
Past Upgrade: 0x404A, Wed 2/06 at 2:31a
Future Upgrade: Not Scheduled

Just wondering if that is the latest version.

[QUOTE=fresh;13057934]

Cool thanks.

Mine shows:
Original Ver: 0xF14
Past Upgrade: 0x404A, Wed 2/06 at 2:31a
Future Upgrade: Not Scheduled

Just wondering if that is the latest version.

Yes, it is. Click on the link in the first post at the top of this page for Release Notes.

Dana

[QUOTE=bolo00911;13058056]

Yes, it is. Click on the link in the first post at the top of this page for Release Notes.

Dana

Thanks

I am actually getting local HD content on my H20 even though I don't pay for the extra HD package. This has to be true for all subscribers since nothing has changed since my unit was updated last week.
.

I had free local HD until D* said I would get the entire HD package for free for a year. Then when I wouldn't pay for the entire HD package they killed the local HD channels. The latest s/w upgrade cost me my HDMI capabilities. Do you suppose anyone is in charge there? Maybe management ought to go back and update the knowledge they got in their original "Hotel/Motel management" correspondence course degrees. It couldn't hurt.

See http://www.dbstalk.com/showthread.php?t=118923

Thanks!

fredee 6000:

Yep, pretty soon D* is not going to be as good as FIOS (probably the best/fastest cable system on the planet since it's fiber-based) or other cable operators, feature or price-wise.

Too bad, satellite was a great deal at one time, but no longer.

In the paper this a.m. (Denver Post) they had an article about D* and Liberty Media (Dish Network) merging or combining operations. You can bet your wallet will be lighter if this ever happens!

Liberty Media is NOT Dish Network.

No one is mourning the passing of satellite TV more than I am. When I lived in Los Angeles the cable TV company didn't even pretend to run a legitimate operation. In fact, a bunch of management/owners eventually went to the slammer. After that I swore I would have nothing to do with cable TV as long as I had any options.

Now I see D* evolving with a "let them eat cake" philosophy. Along with marginal service they seem to have the pricing policy of a cheap whore. Virtually anything you want is an extra charge - HD, second room, multiple teer program pricing, sports, {anything you can think of here} They even try to sell you a service policy so you can maintain their leased equipment that they don't tell you is leased when you buy it. Maybe it's time to take a TV watching aversion program.

I have the HR20 and I have been getting pixalting problems mainly on the HD local channels. When it happens you can't even see the picture. This only happens once and a while.
There is nothing abstructing the dish and I am getting a great signal. Can anyone help me? Because directv cannot solve the problem. The only response from them is a new box; which would be the HR21.

On a different subject; is there anyway to get my DVR recordings to a DVD or computer?

Thanks

Bump from 2/8/08

Is there a way to "force" the H20-100 to download the new software or must I wait for D* to decide when they want to send it to me? If it can be forced, how do you do it? Thanks

Bump from 2/8/08

You have to wait until it is available. It's being rolled out region by region. Beta software can be forced when it is available, typically in the early morning hours on specified days for those enrolled in that program.

Dana

I have the HR20 and I have been getting pixalting problems mainly on the HD local channels. When it happens you can't even see the picture. This only happens once and a while.
There is nothing abstructing the dish and I am getting a great signal. Can anyone help me? Because directv cannot solve the problem. The only response from them is a new box; which would be the HR21.

On a different subject; is there anyway to get my DVR recordings to a DVD or computer?

Thanks


Please review my posts in this thread, post #'s 5911, 5913, 5919, 5920. Hopefully this info will help you with your problem.

Why not just let MDEVAN know that you had a bad dimmer switch that was causing pixelation and loss of signal?

I read your threads, and it was a dimmer switch from your dinning room. My picture is pixalating only, and it is mainly on the local hd and a few other hd channels. It doesn't happen all the time, but it is frustrating when it does happen. Any other suggestions?

Any other suggestions?

Here is one: post your question in the DVR thread here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13074639&posted=1#post13074639
instead of the non-DVR thread here. :)

Why not just let MDEVAN know that you had a bad dimmer switch that was causing pixelation and loss of signal?

Ouch, jump down my case why don't ya !!!

Yes i could have simply said you may have a bad dimmer switch, BUT I let MDEVAN know were my posts were so could read through them and get a better understanding of the problem I had, :cool:

Ouch, jump down my case why don't ya !!!

Yes i could have simply said you may have a bad dimmer switch, BUT I let MDEVAN know were my posts were so could read through them and get a better understanding of the problem I had, :cool:

Sorry, I didn't mean to jump on your case. But, I was thinking of MDEVAN. He's new here. He asked a question and instead of the answer, he is told to go chase it. I thought the better approach was to give him the answer along with the track back info.

Just my 2¢.

Dana

Thanks Dana. I didn't know this forum was so harsh!
I have been in contact with D tv and they said it could be the HR20 or the dish itself. If it is the Hr20 box it will get replaced and I just wanted the DVR recordings to be backed up on a disc or something. I have alot of good programming and movies I don't want to lose, but I cannot get an answer on any of this issues, and the pixalating continues!

Thanks

Thanks Dana. I didn't know this forum was so harsh!
I have been in contact with D tv and they said it could be the HR20 or the dish itself. If it is the Hr20 box it will get replaced and I just wanted the DVR recordings to be backed up on a disc or something. I have alot of good programming and movies I don't want to lose, but I cannot get an answer on any of this issues, and the pixalating continues!

Thanks
It should be pointed out that this is a thread for the H20 (regular receiver), not the HR20 (DVR).

At any rate, the only way to back up your recordings is to play them into another recording device. Even using an external ESATA drive won't help you since it will format itself when you connect it to the new DVR.

New Update Received. H20-100 x 3 Looks good so far. 1 hour NW of Philadelphia