Are you confusing it with the channel banner that comes up when you change channels? I have mine set for 2 seconds and it goes away after 2 seconds.

yes- Thanks

I was hoping there was a way to change the time out of the banner when you hit the info button

Ok update on my previous insallation of 5-LNB dish. As you saw in my earlier post, a picture of the "shotty" installation by the directv installer.(The multi-switch hanging and wires all over the place). A different Directv installer came out and I showed him what the previous installer had done. He politely said "wow....I better clean up that mess". I asked him why the installer used a multi-switch....he had no explanation, except that the multiswith should not have been installed.

He did a nice, neat job. Installed a block and mounted it to the chimney. There are (3) bolts holding the mast mount and I asked him if that was ok and he showed me that is was anchored solidly. I could not budge the mast mount, however, the mast itseld (towards the top) will "wiggle' with force....but the mast mount is solid.

I do a get better signal strength on all transponders...18 is now on 100.

The only thing I questioned on, were cables running across my roof (which is no big deal) however he used "anchors" to secure the cables that make them look nice and neat....which they do. I asked if the "anchors" should be caulked and he said "no, the anchors do not go through the shingles". I thought to myself that can't be true. Should I caulk around the "anchors"? They are basically "U"-shaped white clips that secure the cables. I went up on the roof and though they are secure I am more concerned about the cables causing a "damming" or "puddling" effect with water. But then again I have a 3-D roof and this may be a mute point...my next concern is leakage where the nail (clips) penetrated. Any advice?

I would slap some tar on them just to be safe. I dont see how they couldnt go through the shingles. Shingles arent very thick and for them to be strong enough to hold the cables in place during strong winds they would have to go through the shingles and possibly into the wood.

...I went up on the roof and though they are secure I am more concerned about the cables causing a "damming" or "puddling" effect with water. But then again I have a 3-D roof and this may be a mute point...my next concern is leakage where the nail (clips) penetrated. Any advice?
That's kinda hard to say because if they are indeed doing what they are built for, then there shouldn't be any issue. Roofing nails usually have a thin flat washer to help against rain migration. So, I dunno. I'm sure everyone will give all sorts of opinions here.... :rolleyes:

But, ages ago, at my mother's house, we had a UHF/VHF antenna mounted on our chimney and the installer ran a marine-treated 2x4 from the chimney all the way across the roof's shingles, to the point of entry into the house. He then attached the attenna lead-in wire to the board. The wire and board lasted over 20 years.

I then messed it all up by removing all of this, including the chimney mount when we got DirecTV and mounted that on the patio railings. Now, I want it back for installing a local HDTV antenna for her local HDTV-channels which are about 60 miles away. Go
figger that I would want the mount and 2x4 back! :mad:

The only thing I questioned on, were cables running across my roof (which is no big deal) however he used "anchors" to secure the cables that make them look nice and neat....which they do. I asked if the "anchors" should be caulked and he said "no, the anchors do not go through the shingles". I thought to myself that can't be true. Should I caulk around the "anchors"? They are basically "U"-shaped white clips that secure the cables. I went up on the roof and though they are secure I am more concerned about the cables causing a "damming" or "puddling" effect with water. But then again I have a 3-D roof and this may be a mute point...my next concern is leakage where the nail (clips) penetrated. Any advice?

I assume you are talking about this type of clip, or something similar. I would not allow someone to nail a cable clip like this into my shingles. There is no way to bind them securely without penetrating into the wood below the shingles. It will make a hole that will eventually leak, IMO.

But, ages ago, at my mother's house, we had a UHF/VHF antenna mounted on our chimney and the installer ran a marine-treated 2x4 from the chimney all the way across the roof's shingles, to the point of entry into the house. He then attached the attenna lead-in wire to the board. The wire and board lasted over 20 years.

How was the board attached to the roof? If the roof is pitched it would present a problem. However, I grew up in Florida where many older homes have flat roofs. A 2x4 would work fine just laid across the top of the roof.

I assume you are talking about this type of clip, or something similar. I would not allow someone to nail a cable clip like this into my shingles. There is no way to bind them securely without penetrating into the wood below the shingles. It will make a hole that will eventually leak, IMO.

Yep, that's the clip. Man oh man, this is a new roof... :mad: Sould I call Directv or just let it be? Maybe the roof tar that's in a "caulk" cannister may be the best bet.

Yep, that's the clip. Man oh man, this is a new roof... :mad: Sould I call Directv or just let it be? Maybe the roof tar that's in a "caulk" cannister may be the best bet.

Since the hole in the shingles is already there I would just put roof patch goop over each one of them. That should be ok since the hole is so small. But then again I am not much of a roofer. I would have just wire-tied them for neatness and let them rest on the roof, rather than compromise the integrity of the roof.

Yep, that's the clip. Man oh man, this is a new roof... :mad: Sould I call Directv or just let it be? Maybe the roof tar that's in a "caulk" cannister may be the best bet.

I think this is "much ado about nothing." If you can look at your roof shingles at the rake edge, you'll notice that they can be quite thick as applied. Then, if the roof plywood is up to spec, it will also be 1/2" or thicker. And the nail for the clip is maybe an 1" long. But maybe 3/8th" is above the roof. I doubt very much that the nail will penetrate into the attic and as the installer said, may never even get into the sheathing.

I think you can relax. :)

Dana

How was the board attached to the roof? If the roof is pitched it would present a problem. However, I grew up in Florida where many older homes have flat roofs. A 2x4 would work fine just laid across the top of the roof.

Pitched roof with the board running downwards, not horizontally.

http://www.lyngsat.com/packages/america.html
At the above URL, look at the DirecTV satellites on:
101.0
102.8
110.0
119.0

Thanks.

I think this is "much ado about nothing." I think you can relax. :) Dana
I agree completely --- since it isn't MY roof...

Check with a professional roofing contractor and I am sure that they would advise AGAINST driving nails through shingles, and especially not sealing them. A small amount of water will find its way thru even the smallest of openings and over time will penetrate down to the unprotected wood sheathing. Can you say "rot"?

Look at the new roof and see if the company that installed it left any exposed nails showing. Asphault shingles will limit the amount of water penetration but I would never nail thru my roof unless I used silicone sealant on each hole...

Like my father always said: "It's hard to find good help these days..." That was about 50 years ago... :)

Last night Chicago had a steady light rain - nothing that would have ever bothered the old round dish. CBS(2) during CSI:Miami (HD Broadcast) was pixellating all over the place on my set. At least in my installation, the new dish seems very touchy and I have dropouts during weather that wouldn't have even touched the old equip. I suppose I could call for service again, but I've thrown in the towel on that front - they'll just come out say everything looks fine and leave without doing anything - another day of work lost.

It is wise and best to never make any holes (no matter how small) in a roof.


The problem most likely lies in the mis-allignment of the dish. Oval dishes are a compromise to round dishes. I have 1 round dish per 1 satellite. When my h-20-100 is operating correctly, I get zero audio/video dropouts (except when several inches of snow covers a dish).
I have found many of the problems are probably from heat build up in the receiver. Besdies having the 4 sides and the top 'free' for air flow, it is also important to raise the unit off a shelf (with 4 small rubber feet) to allow the air to flow freely. With this good air flow (and the top of unit 'slightly warm), I have had perfect reception for a number of days now. Just hope everything continues the same!

I have found many of the problems are probably from heat build up in the receiver. Besdies having the 4 sides and the top 'free' for air flow, it is also important to raise the unit off a shelf (with 4 small rubber feet) to allow the air to flow freely. With this good air flow (and the top of unit 'slightly warm), I have had perfect reception for a number of days now. Just hope everything continues the same!
How much clearance is needed? I've got about 3.5" on top and 1.5" on each side and haven't been raising the H20 receiver with rubber feet (yet). The ambient room temperature has been fairly low, probably lower than in coming months. Right now the top of the receiver is quite warm. Not too hot to touch but noticeably warmer than my other equipment.

I'm waiting for the tech to arrive this afternoon to replace my H20. I guess I need to get some rubber feet for the new unit. How high should I raise it?

Thanks.

...Techo...I have a pole cabinet so the 4 sides are free of anything; about 6 inches from top of unit to bottom of next shelf above; and rubber feet (4) are about 1 inch high. On the h-20-100 there are a few holes for ventilation on bottom but, probably, should be more (depending on inside design). The 100 box (compared with 600 box) is lighter but several inches deeper (front to back) with many more holes in top for air to pass freely. From years of experience, I am convinced heat causes many of the problems with receivers. My receiver, now, is running only slightly warm on top and bottom. The last week or so it has been operating 99 percent 'perfect'. Perhaps, even the manufacturers do not quite understand what heat can cause their receivers to do.

...Techo...I have a pole cabinet so the 4 sides are free of anything; about 6 inches from top of unit to bottom of next shelf above; and rubber feet (4) are about 1 inch high. On the h-20-100 there are a few holes for ventilation on bottom but, probably, should be more (depending on inside design). The 100 box (compared with 600 box) is lighter but several inches deeper (front to back) with many more holes in top for air to pass freely. From years of experience, I am convinced heat causes many of the problems with receivers. My receiver, now, is running only slightly warm on top and bottom. The last week or so it has been operating 99 percent 'perfect'. Perhaps, even the manufacturers do not quite understand what heat can cause their receivers to do.
I hope that the replacement receiver will be a H20-100... I don't use OTA so it sounds like the 100 would be an improvement all-around for me.

I am convinced that excessive heat can damage sensitive electronic components and not always in a readily apparent or obvious fashion. How much heat is too much? I don't know. But the cooler the better? I wonder what would be required to add a coolong fan inside the H20...

My recurring problems with the H20 could well be (and probably are?) due to excessive heat build-up. Time to break out the ice bucket. :)

Last night Chicago had a steady light rain - nothing that would have ever bothered the old round dish. CBS(2) during CSI:Miami (HD Broadcast) was pixellating all over the place on my set. At least in my installation, the new dish seems very touchy and I have dropouts during weather that wouldn't have even touched the old equip. I suppose I could call for service again, but I've thrown in the towel on that front - they'll just come out say everything looks fine and leave without doing anything - another day of work lost.


I watched the first 20 minutes or so, and did see some pixel problems for about 10 or 15 seconds at the beginning. I had also watched channel 2 for about an hour and a half prior to CSI, specifically to see if I was getting pixelization as I've been battling that problem. As I'd had BIG problems since the upgrade. I live about 60 miles west of the loop. Anway, that 10 or 15 seconds was the only time I had a problem, which is a HUGE improvement. It would be interesting know what your signal strength is on SAT 103. That's the one the local HD channels are on.

I had tinkered with mine and got it up to 82 on this past Sunny Sunday. Last night, with the rain it dropped to 77. If you have signals less than that I'm guessing your dish needs some fine tuning.

I suspect the best way to get it just right is do it yourself though.

I suspect the best way to get it just right is do it yourself though.
Is there a meter that an individual could use to optimally aim the 5LNB (AT9) dish?

Are there directions for how to aim it?

Thanks.

Is there a meter that an individual could use to optimally aim the 5LNB (AT9) dish?

Are there directions for how to aim it?

Thanks.


There is, Solidsignal.com has it for sale, but it is over $100.
They also have a video for the "professional installer" you can watch.
It goes step by step on how to install and align.

I did it the old fashions way. Using 2-way radio, had my dad by the dish, me by the receiver. Went step by step as per the video. Keeping track of signal strength each step of the way. Not certain if it is optimal, but I improved 2 of the 4 SATS by 3 and 4 %, the other two remained the same. That small movement has DRASTICALLY improved my pixelizaton problems. I'm still cautious though. I just did it on Sunday. Either way, I know it is better than it was.

One other interesting note. I have 2 H20's now. Last night three of the 4 SATS had the same signal strength. However, 1 had a 3 point higher strength on Sat 101. Strange.

How much clearance is needed? ... I'm waiting for the tech to arrive this afternoon to replace my H20. I guess I need to get some rubber feet for the new unit. How high should I raise it?
The H20-100 comes with "taller" rubber feet. That's one of the design differences between it and the H20-600s.

If you end up with another H20-600, put some felt, rubber, plastic or wood feet under it about ½" thick.

In my opinion, the distance between bottom of receiver and top of shelf shoud be, at least, one inch. Yes, more is better. It is so important to get air moving freely under over and around the 4 sides of a receiver. My receiver, top and bottom, runs..'slightly warm to the touch. For the past week, my h-20-100 has been operating 99 percent 'perfect' with zero dropouts on audio/video from Directv and OTA. I hope it continues! If a person gets rid of this excessive heat, he will also get rid of many problems with these receivers.

Middle Atlantic's RSH-4A custom rackshelve for the H20 is part of the problem:

the shelf has vent holes in the bottom but it is still restrictive: I added some spacers under the rear of the H20 and that helped (I could not add spacers under the front because it would not align with the panel cutout): I am thinking of adding additional vent holes in the rackshelf

I have the H20-600 version and find its ATSC tuner to be the best (in regard to sensitivity) I have seen: that and the simultaneous component video and HDMI output make it a keeper: just wish it was a bit quicker :)

The H20-100 comes with "taller" rubber feet. That's one of the design differences between it and the H20-600s.

If you end up with another H20-600, put some felt, rubber, plastic or wood feet under it about ½" thick.
These work pretty good for getting some airflow under equipment, they may be a little expensive, but they're pretty handy. I even use some to angle my center channel speaker exactly where I want it.

http://www.vibrapod.com/
The Vibrapod Company

These work pretty good for getting some airflow under equipment, they may be a little expensive, but they're pretty handy. I even use some to angle my center channel speaker exactly where I want it.

http://www.vibrapod.com/
The Vibrapod Company

that is what I used

but note vibrapods cannot handle high temperatures: I have a handful of melted Vibrapods to prove it :)

that is what I used

but note vibrapods cannot handle high temperatures: I have a handful of melted Vibrapods to prove it :)
Really? How were they used, on top of an amp or something? I have some that have gotten deformed a bit, but sticking them in the microwave for a few seconds brings them back in shape. Never had any melt.. :eek:

that is what I used... ...but note vibrapods cannot handle high temperatures: I have a handful of melted Vibrapods to prove it :)
It's difficult for me to understand how "isolating" audio equipment would actually improve its sound quality as several of the reviews I read claim... Isolating a DVD or phonograph kind of makes sense, but how do these improve sound?

Is it best to use Vibrapods and Vibracones in conjunction?

How high of a temperature can they handle? :)

Really? How were they used, on top of an amp or something? I have some that have gotten deformed a bit, but sticking them in the microwave for a few seconds brings them back in shape. Never had any melt.. :eek:

it was in between some stacked stb's in the bottom of a rack: the ones I removed were seriously deformed/ melted

some stb's like Tivo have an operating temperature you can bring up in the system information menu: quite helpful:

the H20 is one stb that needs lots of ventilation space

I suspect there will be lots of failures of this model due to overheating: still I prefer a unit without a fan: remember the early Sony HD100 screamer fan?

Yeah, noisy fans are obnoxious, noisy HDDs are also annoying in a home theater setting. It sounds like this H20 is in some serious need of thermal evacuation work.

It's difficult for me to understand how "isolating" audio equipment would actually improve its sound quality as several of the reviews I read claim... Isolating a DVD or phonograph kind of makes sense, but how do these improve sound?

Is it best to use Vibrapods and Vibracones in conjunction?

How high of a temperature can they handle? :)
Most of that stuff is just a bit too "tweaky" for me. When I went looking for something to give my equipment some room it was a lot harder than I thought it would be to find something suitable and then I came across the Vibrapods and they've worked great for me so far. If they happen to have some added mystical ability, then great, but that's not what I got them for.

I don't know how much heat they can withstand, I haven't had any go bad, but it came happen as Mark has noted.

I think I have some of the Vibracones but I haven't used them for anything, never really came up with a suitable use.

The isolating part probably is most effective with LFE which could cause the device to vibrate a bit, whether that is going to make an audible difference or not would depend on a lot of different factors including the type of equipment and the LFE energy and how it's dispersed in the room.

Vibrapods under a Dish 942 are a must for me: that HDD puts out a lot of vibration and the pods act to dampen it

to me the main purpose of a Vibrapod is to reduce vibration transmitted to other gear

Yes, that's true, anything with a HDD will benefit from having Vibrapods, I use them on my 942 as well as the HR10-250.

Under my equipment I use these 3 inch across round hard rubber 'hockey pucks'. They are effective, never wear out, and quite inexpensive. They are a little over one inch top to bottom. Audio does sound very natural if euipment is isolated as much as possible from shelves, etc. I have always used valve (tube) audio equipment and have the units sitting completely out in the open. The tubes in the units last for many years and, besides, the tube units are nice to look at.

...Oval dishes are a compromise to round dishes. I have 1 round dish per 1 satellite.
Gosh, I would love to know how to do that and how to set up each dish. If you ever get bored and want to write an article and share it with us.............. :) I'm assuming, for now, four leads going into a diplexer or something...

Larry: I never mentioned I had the 5 lnb dish which I do not. At this point in time, I would gain nothing and lose some signal strength. I receive local HD stations with UHF antenna. I am hoping Direct will have a 'better' dish when they go MPEG4 all the way. But this could be years. Of course, with 3 dishes it is easy wiring.

The D* tech told me today that D* now has Mpeg5 receivers. He also said that there was nothing wrong with my H20 receiver... Didn't comment about the H20's caller ID not working. It has once again started rebooting endlessly and is hot enough to trigger global warming, but he said that the pixelization and audio drop-outs that I have been experiencing are normal and to be fully expected.

At least I think that was what he said? He had a very pronounced (and difficult to understand) Jamaican accent, Mon.

I explained to him in great detail where I thought the receiver should go. No, not there --- I told him to take it back with him to D*. At which point he called D* and requested they send me a replacement receiver. That took him more than a half hour because it seems that the people at D* also had difficulty understanding him... (output = ooot-poot)

I really have to wonder about D* sending "repair technicians" out that don't have a clue in the world.

I am very curious about this Mpeg5 though... When did that happen? Did they put up new Mpeg5 satellites? :eek:

I don't think D* will get too many more chances to make things right with me... I might just pay my $120 a month to the cable company and deal with their crappy service. If High Definition didn't look so great (when it works) I would regret ever getting HighDef. Although, I probably should have waited another 5 years until a few of the bugs get worked out?

In the future I will graciously decline offers from D* CSR's to have one of their highly trained and professional technicians provide me with repair service. :rolleyes:

What a fiasco... And, Mpeg5 too!

The D* tech told me today that D* now has Mpeg5 receivers.

LMAO - pass dat blunt homey.

I'm sorry that you had that tech out to your home recently, at least you don't live
in florida and have a spanish speaking tech who understands no english at all,
install your receiver and leave the menus in spanish.

unfortunately thats our tech issues.... if i had to Guess i would Say Ironwood(mountain) or Mastec.

-Brine

****EDIT - oops you do live in Florida... and that means its mastec (probably)

I see the problem I had where my H20 receiver would reboot whenever I tuned to channel 4-1 (Los Angeles) is no longer present. KNBC must have fixed whatever was wrong.

Larry: I never mentioned I had the 5 lnb dish which I do not. At this point in time, I would gain nothing and lose some signal strength. I receive local HD stations with UHF antenna. I am hoping Direct will have a 'better' dish when they go MPEG4 all the way. But this could be years. Of course, with 3 dishes it is easy wiring.
That's what I mean... I would love to know how to set up a multi-dish setup. Somewhere on this list is a photo of a member's site in which he setup at least four single LNB dishes, all aimed all over the place, but I'll bet he had max signal on everything.

...
In the future I will graciously decline offers from D* CSR's to have one of their highly trained and professional technicians provide me with repair service. :rolleyes:

What a fiasco... And, Mpeg5 too!
DirecTV or Dish doesn't recruit installers, or at least that is what the local installer told me. One just attends a seminar, passes an exam, pays various fees, and gets basic tools and equipment. With all the potential call-backs after a wind storm, I wouldn't want the job!!!

The local guy here is part of a company that installs consumer communication equipment, so DBS and C-band satellites is not their only thing.

I think DirecTV needs to offer either an install service as it is doing now, and also issue an installer voucher and let the customer chose a certified installer of their choice. That is certainly what I would want with a new system. I want the choice.

"LMAO - pass dat blunt homey. I'm sorry that you had that tech out to your home recently..."
It was funny. The service was scheduled for 1 to 5pm and when I called at 5 to find out why no one had showed up or called me --- they said they were running a little late. Blunts? ;)

The "tech" finally showed up in his little compact car. I didn't see tools or any parts. What did he plan to do to "fix" my problem --- stare at the receiver until it started working?

This might have been his first day on the job? I noticed that he had a difficult time figuring out how to plug the HDMI cable into the H20.

I would like to get a job working as a tech for D*. There's no on-the-job training required and all you have to do is show up... But, now that I think about it --- an even better job would be that of the 2nd thru 5th CSRs who handle customer tech calls. You know the ones? Each CSR asks for your phone number and your name and then asks what problem is being experienced... Then, they immediately say: "Please wait while I transfer you to someone who can help." After the 3rd or 4th transfer you eventually get the person who says they will send the Jamaican out.

By the way, I love Jamaica. I also enjoy Bob Marley and reggae... :p

I agree completely --- since it isn't MY roof...

Check with a professional roofing contractor and I am sure that they would advise AGAINST driving nails through shingles, and especially not sealing them. A small amount of water will find its way thru even the smallest of openings and over time will penetrate down to the unprotected wood sheathing. Can you say "rot"?

Look at the new roof and see if the company that installed it left any exposed nails showing. Asphault shingles will limit the amount of water penetration but I would never nail thru my roof unless I used silicone sealant on each hole...

Like my father always said: "It's hard to find good help these days..." That was about 50 years ago... :)

Would it be better to use GE silicon or "slop" tar around and over it? Also, should I pull out the clips and put tar over the holes.

Calling a roofer is not an option.....they will not come out to inspect (4)-1/8" holes let alone return my calls.

Directv is costing me more and more $$$ everytime I upgrade.

Let me ask you this....when Directv mounts a Dish onto a roof, how is that sealed? I have seen roughly 80%- 90% of dishes mounted on the roof. That would seem alot worse than a few clips. Thanks for your help.

Posted by mikelets456: Would it be better to use GE silicon or "slop" tar around and over it?

Don't bother.

Our house was re-roofed in 2000 (complete tear-off & "dimensional" shingles applied). Roofers just lagged the D* antenna back where it had been. I pulled the lag screws, used silicon caulk in the holes, re-set it & re-aligned it. Used the cable clips to dress up the cable run across the roof. NO sealant used or needed for the clips.

No leaks or rot to date - and don't expect any. Clip nails penetrate the decking at most 1/8" and clip acts a dam to block water from nail. BTW, wood doesn't rot when it gets wet, only when it stays wet.

Carl

...Our house was re-roofed in 2000 (complete tear-off & "dimensional" shingles applied). Roofers just lagged the D* antenna back where it had been. ...
At work, we have a couple of 4' communication dishes mounted on the roof and I was curious how those were mounted since we have never had leaks or problems. They used a low-profile tripod mount and bolts of some sort. They appear to be lag, but they possibly could be rust-proof bolts that go all the way through, and have a washer and nut on the end.

Anyway, no problem with these...

Something new cropped up on my H20-100 last night - as far as I can tell, only on the local channels.

The picture would suddenly freeze for as long as I let it go - certainly for a minute. Then, when I would change channels up or down the other channels would just be blank - no picture at all, but also no "searching for satellite" message - just blank.

The solution I found was to change the channel to some random higher number (I used 111) and to then change it back to the local channel I wanted to watch. All was then fine until it happened again several minutes later. I'd say it happend 10-12 times in the course of the couple hours I was watching TV.

I"m not sure, but I think the problem might have occured when the broadcast changed between resolutions.

My H20 has OTA reception problems as does most H20 owners, but, recently it cuts out the same way as it does with OTA on other HD channels like 70, 72, 73, 74 & 75 (HBO HD, ESPN2 HD, ESPN HD, Universal HD & TNT HD).
A local tech made a service call last night & after a few phone calls D* told the tech to replace the dish. The signal did improve >5% for channels on 110 deg. sat. transponders 8, 10 & 12. 5 minutes after the tech left, it cut out again!
Anyone else having this problem?
BTW-The software has been reloaded several times & I've tried un-pluging the H20, too.

Don't bother.

Our house was re-roofed in 2000 (complete tear-off & "dimensional" shingles applied). Roofers just lagged the D* antenna back where it had been. I pulled the lag screws, used silicon caulk in the holes, re-set it & re-aligned it. Used the cable clips to dress up the cable run across the roof. NO sealant used or needed for the clips.

No leaks or rot to date - and don't expect any. Clip nails penetrate the decking at most 1/8" and clip acts a dam to block water from nail. BTW, wood doesn't rot when it gets wet, only when it stays wet.

Carl


Thanks Carl....you made my day!!!
Forgive me, but I must say this just once..."Oh... it's you Newman".(said sarcastically) Of course, one of my favorite lines from Seinfeld.....sorry, had to be done.

Thanks again for your help and putting up with my lousy humor.... ;)

My H20 has OTA reception problems as does most H20 owners, but, recently it cuts out the same way as it does with OTA on other HD channels like 70, 72, 73, 74 & 75 (HBO HD, ESPN2 HD, ESPN HD, Universal HD & TNT HD).
A local tech made a service call last night & after a few phone calls D* told the tech to replace the dish. The signal did improve >5% for channels on 110 deg. sat. transponders 8, 10 & 12. 5 minutes after the tech left, it cut out again!
Anyone else having this problem?
BTW-The software has been reloaded several times & I've tried un-pluging the H20, too.


Since the advent of the new software, dropouts have been much better....or less.
However, it's still not acceptable and usually happens after 45 minutes on my local network. never fails, while I'm watching "24" at the most cruscial point in the show (somewhere in the last 5-10 minutes) audio drops, it pixelates and goes blank for 2-5 seconds then comes back on. Man oh man....if looks could kill(from my wife), my guts would be splattered all over the family room... :( At least I would not have to clean it up:D

I had the same problems with my H20-600 that I have had for 5 months. It always has locked up when tuning in a weak OTA signal or when snow got on my dish. About two weeks ago it started locking up and rebooting while watching OTA or HD sat channels (very annoying). It also stated to get lines or a waviness across the screen on SD and HD stations (SD was worse). Directv sent me a new replacement receiver last night, (H20-100), no issues after 3 hours, not even the typical pixelation. DIRECTV's fix for the reboot is to eliminate OTA channels from your favorites list, weak signals first then strong signals if necessary. That's what the recommend until they get their next software update. I believe my issues were heat related and the performance just diminished overtime until it was not watchable. Hope the H20-100 runs cooler given its larger case. H20-100 menus, guides and channel changes are much faster than the 600 and picture quality seems to be improved, especially on SD channels.

I still think RCA makes the best D*TV boxes. I know the LG (600) puts out a great picture and stuff....believe it or not, my 2 original RCA D*TV recievers (5 years old) still work flawlessly.

I have been told the H20-100 is probably made by RCA (Thomson). My H20-100 has a much faster guide and runs cooler, but it has a weaker OTA tuner than the H20-600 it replaced.

Will DirecTV *ever* make a good HD STB?

... he called D* and requested they send me a replacement receiver. That took him more than a half hour because it seems that the people at D* also had difficulty understanding him...

Perhaps your broken english tech reached a broken english outsourced D* call center person in INDIA, or wherever the hell they are. :)

Under my equipment I use these 3 inch across round hard rubber 'hockey pucks'. They are effective, never wear out, and quite inexpensive. They are a little over one inch top to bottom. Audio does sound very natural if euipment is isolated as much as possible from shelves, etc. I have always used valve (tube) audio equipment and have the units sitting completely out in the open. The tubes in the units last for many years and, besides, the tube units are nice to look at.

I have no doubt that the vibracones and vibrapods are terrific for isolating the electronic equipment and promoting airflow. However for $1 each at Home Depot you can just get these and turn them upside down or something. They are clear, and are made to withstand heavy furniture and heat. Since there is no vibration issues with the H20 these have to be quite adequate.

http://doityourself.com/store/1529254.htm

Also, millions of people live in rural areas where cable, dsl or fiber may never be available. Satellite TV and wireless internet options like WiMax (http://www.multichannel.com/article/CA6304962.html) will be their only choices for a long time.

arxaw -

I read your link to WiMax and I understand that Directv is interested in satellite broadband according to their annual report also.

Do you know any reason why they can't use the existing technology that Direcway satellite uses? Direcway is advertising their satellite broadband on Directv. In fact, when I called Directv to ask about satellite broadband through them, they told me to contact Direcway.com.

Just got my HDTV Mits. wd-62525 and the DirecTV H20 and the highest resolution I can display on high definition channels is 480p. I am connected though the HDMI. Is this normal or is something wrong.

Thanks,
Bob

Just got my HDTV Mits. wd-62525 and the DirecTV H20 and the highest resolution I can display on high definition channels is 480p. I am connected though the HDMI. Is this normal or is something wrong.

Thanks,
Bob

Did you set your H20 resolution settings for 720P and 1081i?

If I manually switch it at the receiver I get very poor picture and after a few sec. it switches back to 480p

If I manually switch it at the receiver I get very poor picture and after a few sec. it switches back to 480p

You would be better off by calling Directv technical support and asking for 2nd level support. They are very good, especially with new customers, and it would be easier to have a back and forth conversation.

...when I called Directv to ask about satellite broadband through them, they told me to contact Direcway.com.If you want satellite internet, go to http://www.wildblue.com It's a much better broadband service than Direcway.

Wimax will be so much better, but isn't available yet.

If I manually switch it at the receiver I get very poor picture and after a few sec. it switches back to 480pIf your tv is an HDTV, either something is not connected properly, a setting is wrong somewhere or there's something wrong with either the TV, the H20 or the cable connecting the two.

Is the box only showing 480P or your TV? If it's the box, then you have to go into set up and set the output to what you want it to be. I have mine set for 480I/1080I output. 1080I is, of course, native to the tv and 480I looks great letting the TV upconvert to 540P on my Hitachi.

Also, if you have a set of component cables, give that a try to see if you can get 1080I or any other format. Maybe a fault in the box/cable or bad ground or fault on your tv. Also, disconnect from the tv and try to change the resolution if you don't want to bother with component cables.

Across the board (average), the h20-100 reads 2 points higher on Directv channels and 2 points lower on OTA local stations. In the real world, at my location, (and when h-20-100 is operating correctly,) I get zero dropouts on video and audio. To me, it seems, keeping the unit as cool as possible is very important. Heat is an enemy!

Naturally, my first post on this thread is about problems. I've read 30 or 40 of the pages on this thread, so I've tried to do my homework, but since I'm a newby its hard for me to follow.

I got my new H-20 around Thanksgiving and installed it in downstairs on a Phillips HD TV that just doesn't get a lot of action. My first 2 observations were:

1) The remote's ability to change channels, or in fact do anything was horrid. I tried it in RF first, and then tried IR, but it didn't matter. If I'm trying to change the channel to say 209, I hit the 2 button about a dozen times before it finally registers on the box, then the 0 about a dozen times. You see where this is going. Its virtually impossible to change channels. At least I now recognize when it registers as the light on the box flickers, but it doesn't really matter because in the time it takes to recognize the second number, it is already changing to channel 2. Yes, I did change the batteries.

2) I get basic cable for free, so I intended to hook up the cable to the H-20 to get my locals. No such luck. Apparently the H-20 does not accept the NSTC or whatever it is. I'm blown away when new technology is a step backward.

Regarding #1, am I doing something wrong? or do I just have a bad box.

Regarding #2, is there some setup option that I didn't choose so I can run the cable through the box?

Thanks in advance.

1) The remote's ability to change channels, or in fact do anything was horrid. I tried it in RF first, and then tried IR, but it didn't matter. If I'm trying to change the channel to say 209, I hit the 2 button about a dozen times before it finally registers on the box, then the 0 about a dozen times. You see where this is going. Its virtually impossible to change channels. At least I now recognize when it registers as the light on the box flickers, but it doesn't really matter because in the time it takes to recognize the second number, it is already changing to channel 2. Yes, I did change the batteries.

2) I get basic cable for free, so I intended to hook up the cable to the H-20 to get my locals. No such luck. Apparently the H-20 does not accept the NSTC or whatever it is. I'm blown away when new technology is a step backward.

Regarding #1, am I doing something wrong? or do I just have a bad box.

Regarding #2, is there some setup option that I didn't choose so I can run the cable through the box?
#1: Sounds like a bad remote, bad batteries or another bad H20-600.

#2: The H20 receiver will only receive DirecTV satellite channels and OTA digital channels. It does not have an analog OTA or analog cable tuner.

Get this!
D* has agreed to exchange both of my H20s... but, not for free! At least that's the way the conversation started. After I told them where they could put that notion, they agreed to exchange them free & place them on the no cost lease program. By doing that they'll be responsible for all future service. Nice of 'em, eh?
BTW. How can I tell if my receivers is H20-100 or H20-600?

I have no doubt that the vibracones and vibrapods are terrific for isolating the electronic equipment and promoting airflow. However for $1 each at Home Depot you can just get these and turn them upside down or something. They are clear, and are made to withstand heavy furniture and heat. Since there is no vibration issues with the H20 these have to be quite adequate.
Ah yes, but are they made by little elves using magic pixie dust? :D

I am thinking about replacing the 3/4" wood shelves in my cabinet with glass or lexan (mainly for looks). If I do opt for lexan or glass would some sort of vibration isolators be even more critically important?

Are those furniture casters hard plastic or soft plastic?

Thanks.

Derg: On the box containing a receiver you will find h-20-100 or h-20-600. The h-20-100 is the one put together in Mexico. I have not paid Directv anything for equipment and istalls for years. Just traded one of my 2 receivers in and got a 'leased' h-20-100. As you said, no more costs on that one as long as I have it. If it becomes defective, I get another one..free.
If something goes wrong with my other receiver, I will send that in for another leased unit.

Hi all,
Thanks for the info regarding the HDMI...I removed the two resolutions and am just keeping 1080i. So, my next issue...last night scrolling through OTA channels here in Cincinnati and get to channel 12-1. Reboot...over and over. I was able to end the cycle by canceling out of channel acquisition and changing to a different OTA channel. It seems to be just this channel...but I was watching the NCAA tourney on it most of the day.


Sounds like a bug? Did anyone else who reported this issue to DTV get a response on fix?

I am getting an OTA outdoor antenna installed tomorrow so we will see if it is something to do with signal strength.



rp2955,

I had the same problem one evening. I am not sure what the date was but it was within the last couple of weeks.

The funny thing was that once I removed 12-1, I could tune to 12-2 which was showing the same programming, and there were no problems.

The next day I added 12-1 back in and have had no problems since.

I think something they were transmitting was confusing the H20.

Have you had this problem since that time?

John

... How can I tell if my receivers is H20-100 or H20-600?Look on the back of the receiver. It should say H20-100 or H20-600. The 100s are made in Mexico. The 600s are made in Korea and China.

Are the functions of the H20-100 and 600 exactly the same? PQ? Menus and setting the native out, stretch,etc? If so, I recently bought 2-H20-600's (before the lease) and was wondering if I told them I wanted a H20-100 because i am having issues with the H20-600 if they would just simply send a new box? I have an H10 that I could give them if they want a box....that box was horrible. Any suggestions? Is it even worth considering? I like the idea of a lease if their is a problem I simply have the unit replaced.

I think I have a good argument because I have had installers over 3 times and am still having issues...granted, not as bad, but I don't have the "rock solid" uninterupted picture I had a few years back...I used to Never get drop outs or have any type of issues whatsoever. Please, any suggestions.

I can't tell any PQ difference, but there are some slight differences in the menu system of the 100 vs the 600.

1. Signal strength meter menu is slightly different between the 2 boxes.
2. Resolution options are different (e.g. my 100 lets me turn off 480p - my 600 wouldn't).
3. Direct channel entry is different on my 100. Example: entering the number 5 on the keypad will take me to channel 5-1. My 600 would say "channel not available" if I only entered 5. It required me to enter five dash one to get to that channel.
4. With my 100 it's possible for me to receive OTA channels (with antenna) from 3 markets. The city I get my local channels from (via D*), plus two more zips for local markets. My 600 would only receive OTA channels (with antenna) from the 2 zip codes I entered in the local markets in setup.

There are a few other minor differences in the menu systems that I don't recall at the moment. Setup was just a bit different.

2. Resolution options are different (e.g. my 100 lets me turn off 480p - my 600 wouldn't).
the moment. .

My 600 lets me set to 480I/1080I and not 480P if I choose to do so.

Also, I can do multiple zip codes and if I have channel 6 local, 6 HD and 6-1, 6-2 and 6-3....If I enter "6" it will go to the SD channel 6. (it used to go to the HD channel 6).

Could you be so kind to answer the other part of my question?


From previous post:

I recently bought 2-H20-600's (before the lease) and was wondering if I told them I wanted a H20-100 because I am having issues with the H20-600 if they would just simply send a new box? I have an H10 that I could give them if they want a box....that box was horrible. Any suggestions? Is it even worth considering? I like the idea of a lease if their is a problem I simply have the unit replaced.

I'm getting tired of the pixelation and video drop outs,etc.

(My -600 always had 480p enabled. I could not disable it like I can on my -100....)

You will have to call D* and ask them about what you want to do. If your non-leased boxes are out of warranty, you'll have to pay for a replacement receiver, unless they let you convert your account over to leased equipment. Talk to customer retention
800 824-9081

D* will not send an H20 from a specific manufacturer (e.g. h20-100). You get whatever they happen to have in stock at the time, and the CSR has no way of knowing which one you'll get.

I called and had a great HD rep...he actually took the time to go through all "service bulletins" regarding the H20. He was also surprised to see the "low" readings on the test signal matrix...I explained that '20 point" thing to him. However, he said they have the H20-600 running HDnet 24/7 with no pixelation or dropouts. I explained all the issues, but oddly enough, he showed or saw nothing relating to drop outs and pixelation.

Could it be the Mpeg4 filters? I don't know. I guess we'll see what happens and go from there.

I am thinking about replacing the 3/4" wood shelves in my cabinet with glass or lexan (mainly for looks). If I do opt for lexan or glass would some sort of vibration isolators be even more critically important?

Are those furniture casters hard plastic or soft plastic?

They are soft, slightly tacky plastic. It will be particularly useful on glass shelving, I would think, since they will not slide, will provide shock absorbtion, and add lift for airflow.

I lose audio with my H20 (not sure exactly what model, since I'm at work now) whenever switching back from another video source I was watching ie. dvd on my Akai Plasma display. I had to recycle the power on the H20 in order to get audio back. Any one has experienced this issue? HDMI to HDMI cable.

Which H20? The H20-600 or the H20-100?
What type of audio connection?

My Samsung Slimfit seems to have lost control of it's ability to control the Close captioning when watching any channel through the H20-via HDMI. Is there some setting that will allow me to turn captions on and off with my TV remote, rather than going through the way-too-many steps to turn it on via the H20?

The H-20-100 is a larger box (deeper by several inches) and somewhat lighter. There is more free space within and this keeps the unit running cooler. It is so important (I think) to keep the receiver as cool as possible. I believe this is where most of the dropouts come from. My receiver, H-20-100 has been running perfect for over a week now. I have free air flow on all 6 sides and the unit runs just slightly warm and this in only over about 25 percent of the unit.

My H-20-600 was 'out of warranty' but Directv 'leased' me a new H-20-100. This was free all the way, to inclide replacement in the future. Do not let Directv charge you for any of these services. They make it back with 2 months of your payments to them.

...Is there some setting that will allow me to turn captions on and off with my TV remote, rather than going through the way-too-many steps to turn it on via the H20?Check your TV's owner manual.

If you can't get it to work with the TV's controls, try using the component connection instead of HDMI. On a tube set, component input normally displays at least as good picture quality as HDMI, since tube sets have to convert the HDMI to analog for display anyway.

Any recommendations for an inexpensive OTA HD antenna? I finally took the time to program my H-20 for the OTA signal and about half of my local OTA signals come in when I used the RF antenna for the OTA signal (Since the RF doesn't seem to work its useless).

I'm in a metro area, so I don't think I need anything to fancy or expensive, and I'd probably buy one for my other two HD receivers.

So, any replies will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Any recommendations for an inexpensive OTA HD antenna? I finally took the time to program my H-20 for the OTA signal and about half of my local OTA signals come in when I used the RF antenna for the OTA signal (Since the RF doesn't seem to work its useless).

I'm in a metro area, so I don't think I need anything to fancy or expensive, and I'd probably buy one for my other two HD receivers.

So, any replies will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
I bought an indoor Terk HDTVlp, which is the same as the Winegard SharpShooter, and it works well for me.

ATLTJoe,
I would NOT buy an antenna made by TERK. Many are overpriced and may not perform well where you live. Bigbox stores push them because they have a very high profit margin.

Antenna requirements vary by market and frequencies used in your area. Post antenna questions in the thread specific to your city HERE (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=45).

ATLTJoe,
I would NOT buy an antenna made by TERK. Many are overpriced and may not perform well where you live. Bigbox stores push them because they have a very high profit margin.

Antenna requirements vary by market and frequencies used in your area. Post antenna questions in the thread specific to your city HERE (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=45).
You can buy the Winegard SharpShooter than since it's the same antenna.

Any recommendations for an inexpensive OTA HD antenna? I finally took the time to program my H-20 for the OTA signal and about half of my local OTA signals come in when I used the RF antenna for the OTA signal (Since the RF doesn't seem to work its useless).

I'm in a metro area, so I don't think I need anything to fancy or expensive, and I'd probably buy one for my other two HD receivers.

So, any replies will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Here's a web site that offers a comparison of commercial antennas. http://www.hdtvprimer.com/ANTENNAS/comparing.html Looks as if a wire clothes hanger might work in your case. LOL.

Dana

I just received a new H20-100 to replace my old H20-600 which frequently locked up. I don't know if it will have any issues with rebooting or locking up yet, too early to say. But I can definitely say the HD PQ on DirecTVs DC locals is far better than on the 600. Perhaps last night was just a good night for D* HD, but it was a noticeable difference.

I really hope this box works out because I am much happier with it - better PQ and faster menu, guide, and channel-changes as well.

I just received a new H20-100 to replace my old H20-600 which frequently locked up. I don't know if it will have any issues with rebooting or locking up yet, too early to say. But I can definitely say the HD PQ on DirecTVs DC locals is far better than on the 600. Perhaps last night was just a good night for D* HD, but it was a noticeable difference. I really hope this box works out because I am much happier with it - better PQ and faster menu, guide, and channel-changes as well.
I also received a replacement H20-100 today. Fingers & toes crossed...

QUESTION: During setup it asked which satellite dish I had and I indicated the 5 LNB dish. It then asked if this was the only dish or if I had a 72.5 degree dish and/or a 95 degree dish. What are these and do I have them? :)

Thanks.

What the heck!!!! I am getting lip sync issues ...AGAIN....on local HD Mpeg4. This is getting very annoying. Anyone else experiencing this? I'm just using OTA because the lip sync problem is so bad!!!!!:(

I also received a replacement H20-100 today. Fingers & toes crossed...

QUESTION: During setup it asked which satellite dish I had and I indicated the 5 LNB dish. It then asked if this was the only dish or if I had a 72.5 degree dish and/or a 95 degree dish. What are these and do I have them? :)

Thanks.

There's a comparison of all the D* satellite dishes here http://www.solidsignal.com/satellite/directv_dish_antenna_types.asp The 95º is the International dish. I don't see the 72.5º dish.

Dana

I also received a replacement H20-100 today. Fingers & toes crossed...

QUESTION: During setup it asked which satellite dish I had and I indicated the 5 LNB dish. It then asked if this was the only dish or if I had a 72.5 degree dish and/or a 95 degree dish. What are these and do I have them? :)

Thanks.


I told it no, I didn't have them. I wasn't sure what they were, and I figured I could probably change it later if I found out I had made a mistake. Sorry I can't be of more help.

Good luck with your new H20!

I lose audio with my H20 (not sure exactly what model, since I'm at work now) whenever switching back from another video source I was watching ie. dvd on my Akai Plasma display. I had to recycle the power on the H20 in order to get audio back. Any one has experienced this issue? HDMI to HDMI cable.

Yes. I had exactly the same problem. After several attempts to fix it, I simply unplugged the cable from the receiver and plugged it back in. Fixed the problem forever. Apparently it just wasn't seated properly into the H20.

Hope it works for you.

A friendly reminder..to those of you with a new h-20-100. When working properly. it is a very good receiver with excellent video and audio. And the menu is quite fast. If you want a HD OTA station just type in '6' (not '6-1'). Also, very important! Be sure you have good clearence on all 6 sides, You must keep the unit operating at a cool to slightly warm condition. Be sure the bottom of unit has a clearance of, at least, 1 inch. More is better. My receiver has been working very well for well over one week now with zero dropouts in video/audio. 'Tight' shelves with a back is not a good place in which to put this receiver. And the 4 sides should be completely open.

... It then asked if this was the only dish or if I had a 72.5 degree dish and/or a 95 degree dish. What are these and do I have them?The 95° dish is for international programming. The 72.5° dish is for smaller markets that have only recently gotten (standard def) locals. The other sats were max'd out so they put small markets on this other sat, requiring a 2nd dish. Springfield, MO and Fort Smith, AR (http://www.lyngsat-logo.com/tvsat/dtv1.html) are two of several markets that require this additional dish.

If you only have one dish, you don't have a 72.5° or a 95° dish.

Regarding 480P resolution in setup...

I have an H20 600 and as many of you, I cannot uncheck or unselect 480P.

A 2nd level (?) CSR told me I might try doing a hard re-set, meaning converting back to factory adjustments in the setup menu (not the red button re-set).

I hesitate to do this because of all the stuff I would have to re-do. What do you guys think?

Anyone ever tried this? I know the H20 100's have fixed the problem. Do you think a software update can fix the H20 600? This is my only problem with the H20 600, so far.

The 72.5 degree position, for the few markets that need it for SD locals, is handled with an ordinary, dual LNB, round dish.

Regarding 480P resolution in setup...A 2nd level (?) CSR told me I might try doing a hard re-set, meaning converting back to factory adjustments in the setup menu (not the red button re-set).

I hesitate to do this because of all the stuff I would have to re-do. What do you guys think?...
I haven't lost my settings with either the RED BUTTON reset or the RESET in the menu. But, as usual YMMV...

--Larry

Thanks for the info on the 72.5 & 95 degree satellites. I don't need them...

While doing the guided setup, when it got to the part about testing signal strengths all seemed to go well (since I didn't know what it should be I really don't know if it was goor or bad) --- BUT --- the setup step when checking the satellite's signal reported an error: "Your satelliite is set to 5 LNB Multi-Sat but the receiver detected 3 satellites."

I re-ran the test and different satellites reported as failed and sometimes they reported ok... Is this a serious problem? Another bad receiver?

Thanks...

My new H20-100 doesn't show local channels in the Guide under HDTV channels. The receiver I just replaced did show all four local HD channel listings... Not a BIG DEAL, but... The tech I spoke to at D* said that maybe it's because I don't have the latest software version. My previous receiver (H20-600) originally came with software version 0F06. The new Mexican-made receiver shows the software version as 003E 020E, B00000113.

When I press the red button and try to force an upgrade manually, the receiver never displays the "STARTING UP" message where you can input 02468...

It didn't automatically update the version last night. Is 003E the LATEST and GREATEST version? Has anyone else lost their local HD channels being displayed in the HD Channels Guide?

Thanks.

Techo: ..Your signal strtength on OTA stations should be near 100. On the sats the signal strength should be approaching '80' for a very good reading. Mine read 77-80 with a few transponders below this and a few above it. There is one transponder that will read '100' and one that will read '50'. Do you have your favorite channels 'saved' ? Favorites are shown under 2 listings. Then, from the total channels you receive, the 20-100 should filter out the HDTV channels and your Local HD stations under those listings. Update numbers are : 003e, 020e, b00000113. My receiver is working perfectly as of today. And, for sure, it is running 'cool to slightly warm'. I believe this to be the key.

Last night while watching the free Showtime channel my HD-20 started acting funning. Had pixelation and picture would go blank a second or two. After this happened for short while picture went blank and receiver box came on saying insert the correct access card for this receiver. Stayed that way. Went channel surfing and to my OTA channels and it came back on. Did this several times.
Has this happened to anyone else?
Had my receiver and new dish about 2 weeks.

Last night while watching the free Showtime channel my HD-20 started acting funning. Had pixelation and picture would go blank a second or two. After this happened for short while picture went blank and receiver box came on saying insert the correct access card for this receiver. Stayed that way. Went channel surfing and to my OTA channels and it came back on. Did this several times.
Has this happened to anyone else?
Had my receiver and new dish about 2 weeks.

I had the same experience two weeks ago. Has never done it since.

Techo: ..Your signal strtength on OTA stations should be near 100. On the sats the signal strength should be approaching '80'

Do you have your favorite channels 'saved' ?

Favorites are shown under 2 listings. Then, from the total channels you receive, the 20-100 should filter out the HDTV channels and your Local HD stations under those listings.

Update numbers are : 003e, 020e, b00000113.
Thanks Richard,

My satellite signal strengths are generally in the 80's with a few lower and some at 100...

I live about 60 miles south of Tampa's broadcast towers and about 60 miles north of the Fort Myers' broadcast towers. Since my SD reception was always horrible even with an external antenna & rotor --- I just figured that OTA-HD would be less than useless. I have huge trees blocking line-of-sight to the north and massive water towers to my south... So, I didn't even try to set up the H20 for OTA...

So my H20-100 receiver has the correct s/w version... Interesting.

I haven't set up any "favorite guide listings" yet... I have either been pressing the guide button twice for "all" channels or I hit guide, then channel (page) down and then select --- to get a listing of available HD channels. When looking at the HD Channel Guide Listings the H20-100 receiver displays the national HD channels but not any of my local HD channels --- the way the H20-600 receiver did. I'll just quit using the HD Channels filter and set up my Favorites 1 or 2 to show all HD channels including my locals.

Thanks a lot for the info on s/w versions with the 20-100... I'll stop waiting for an update. D* tech support didn't know what the current version should be with it. ;)

This replacement H20 does seem to be noticeably cooler and I haven't seen any PQ issues yet AND the caller ID works now... Win-win situation so far?

Techo; As you know the receiver (20-100) is larger with 'more holes' in top for air to circulate. It all helps.

You must scan (in direction where digital tv stations are). Of course, you say you are not after local HD stations, I believe. The filter should show the Directv HD stations in the 70's. Of course, you can also just save these in Favorites 1. In my faves I have the local stations (below 70); then, the HD stations from Directv in the 70's. From there on I have the channels saved that we view most. I can always bring up 'all the channels' if I had something that is not saved in "favorites 1'. Remember, you can also just type in '6' to go to a local station or '529' to go to a Directv channel. XM radio stations gives a person endless choice of music. They are in the 800's of course.

Last night while watching the free Showtime channel my HD-20 started acting funning. Had pixelation and picture would go blank a second or two. After this happened for short while picture went blank and receiver box came on saying insert the correct access card for this receiver. Stayed that way. Went channel surfing and to my OTA channels and it came back on. Did this several times.
Has this happened to anyone else?
Had my receiver and new dish about 2 weeks.

It's happened to me twice since I got the H-20 last December. I had to reboot both times to get it to work again.

hey, im setting up my at9 dish this weekend, but my H20 is not coming till monday. could someone pleasee give me the numbers for my zip code 33176. i would greatly appreciate it! thanks!

bob1527; Under 'customer care' (Directv site) you will find info on 'pointing your dish'.

they only have the numbers for a single lnb dish. im pretty sure i need somone with an h20 receiver because that was designed for use with the at9 dish

Got my H20 replacements yesterday; the new ones are 100s & old were 600s. So far they work flawlessly. I don't know if it's possible, but, the PQ even looks better. It also seems fast from channel to channel & it must upconvert SD 480 to 1080 because the rez indicator always stays on "1080". The 600's had no upconversion so my monitor went haywire switching back & forth from SD to HD.
So far, so good.

Derg; Just be sure to have lots of air flow around the receiver; one inch clearance underneath as well. All sides should be completely open, if possible, and 6 inches clearance over the top cover. You will see 480i programming at 480i and HD at 720p/1080i..all very smoothly done.

I have a replacement H20 coming but they would not guarantee me a 100 series unit: but worth a shot:

I am uncomfortable with my H20-600 running so hot

I have a replacement H20 coming but they would not guarantee me a 100 series unit: but worth a shot:

I am uncomfortable with my H20-600 running so hot

I also have another H20 coming and was hoping that it would be the 100 series as well. It doesn't seem like many (if any) of the 600 has been distributed lately. Does anyone have any confirmation of this?

I have a replacement H20 coming but they would not guarantee me a 100 series unit: but worth a shot: I am uncomfortable with my H20-600 running so hot
Mark,

I'm not sure, but I seriously doubt that most CSRs at D* even know what a 600 or 100 series is... So, not promising you a 100 isn't at all surprising. I know how you feel though. Last Tuesday when they said they were sending me a replacement receiver I too feared I would get another H20-Oven unit... But, I was pleased when I got the H20-100. And it really does run MUCH cooler. The 600 that I returned was so hot that it was uncomfortable to touch. The new 100 is slight;y warm --- almost cool to the touch.

I would relax. If you do happen to get another "oven" unit complain about it and get another replacement receiver... I get the feeling, however, that D* might've stopped shipping the 600's. Seems like it'd be a very wise decision if they did...

Chorgey: I have had both the 600 and 100 series and, to me, the 100 seems to be better in several ways. So far, it has proven to be more reliable but time will tell on this one. Just my guess, but, from now on, I think your changes of getting a 100 model is very good. The person, with whom you talk at Directv, has no control on which receiver is being sent to you. Just the roll of the dice!

hey, im setting up my at9 dish this weekend, but my H20 is not coming till monday. could someone pleasee give me the numbers for my zip code 33176. i would greatly appreciate it! thanks!

Tilt: 54
Elevation: 52
Azimuth: 227

The 600's had no upconversion so my monitor went haywire switching back & forth from SD to HD.You may have neglected to disable "Native" in Setup. My 600 never budges from 1080i.

I just joined D* exactly one month ago and I got the 600. Its a little warm on the top but by no means "hot" or "uncomfortable to touch". I havent had a single issue with it.

I just joined D* exactly one month ago and I got the 600. Its a little warm on the top but by no means "hot" or "uncomfortable to touch". I havent had a single issue with it.
Mine is about three months old, I think... No problem, no lockups. It is the 600... I have local OTA channels as well. Other than the horrid interface and its slowness, this is a great receiver, at least for me.

I think this is what makes it all frustrating. Some units are good, some are bad. It is a bit tough trying to isolate the issues.

I also have another H20 coming and was hoping that it would be the 100 series as well. It doesn't seem like many (if any) of the 600 has been distributed lately. Does anyone have any confirmation of this?
A month ago I got the HD20-600 installed when I upgraded from the H10.
Since it was free I had the instaler put the 5 LMB on the roof.
Last week I caled about a problem I was having (channels "disappearing" on my custom guide) & they sent me another reciever, this time it was a HD20-100.
So in the last month they sent me out both.
The diffrence is the 600 was from a local installer that may have had a bunch of 600's in stock & the 100 was straight from DirecTV.

So in the last month they sent me out both. The diffrence is the 600 was from a local installer that may have had a bunch of 600's in stock & the 100 was straight from DirecTV.
Moose,

D* only sends their H20-600 to HDummies... :)

Oh yeah, I got mine a couple weeks ago... :D

Some folks have had no problems at all with their "600s". Truth be known, I kinda hated to swap mine out because it was so handy --- what with my being able to roast marshmallows over it while watching TV. I was even so dumb that I thought HDTV stood for "HotDamnTeleVision".

Maybe D* is smart enough to have figured out that the H20-600 is a dog and that they are better off supplying the H20-100 instead of the H20-600? It's got to be costly for them to: install a receiver that is plagued with problems; then provide technical support for it; then ship a replacement receiver and also pay to have the defective unit returned to them...

I'm picturing kazillions of Chinese and Korean people sitting huddled around these "600s" on cold, wintry nights --- just to stay warm. ;)

Maybe the "600" is fine? I really don't know... I do believe that the "100" replacement that I am using now works great and the "600" that I had before did not. YMMV? :rolleyes:

I believe Directv finally caught on that heat is a killer (and costly to boot). The 100 box is bigger with more holes on top and lighter. This, of course, causes heat build-up to be less. On the 100 unit there is only about 25 perfect of the top that is 'slightly warm'. The remaining 75 percent is 'somewhat cool' to the touch. Even on the 100, there should be more ventilation in the bottom. The overall design of the 100 model is very good. Quality control was not very good on the 600 model. I am hoping the quality is better on the 100 model from Mexico. So far, so good! I would imagine Directv is very much hoping this will prove to be a reliable unit.

There are some airflow improvements, but I think the -100 board mainly just runs cooler than the -600. It also has only one chipset that runs cool enough that it doesn't need a heat sink, where the -600s had two chipsets and both had heat sinks attached.

Does the H20-100 need the two RCA phono plugs in to trick the stereo seperation like the 600 series needed?

It seems that Directv finally has caught on that heat (or lack of heat) can make big diiferences in the operation of a HDTV receiver. The cooler the better! And the consumer has to recognize this fact as well and do whatever he can to further this 'coolness'.

Chorgey: I use rca connecting cables and the stereo separation is just fine. I run cables both to my display and to my pre-amp

Does the H20-100 need the two RCA phono plugs in to trick the stereo seperation like the 600 series needed?Chorgey, I don't know if the H20-100 has the "Non-DD5.1 chs are mono on optical out if RCA cables aren't present" bug or not.

(I use both optical & RCA out, and I can't easily get to the back of my -100 to test for the bug.)

Does the H20-100 need the two RCA phono plugs in to trick the stereo seperation like the 600 series needed?

I'm curious about that, too. Someone on this thread I believe determined that the problem can be observed with the cover off. Guess we'll have to wait for an H20-100 cover to be removed.

BTW. My H20-600 has been problem-free - except for the RCA plug trick. I also read somewhere - maybe this thread - that some H20-600 power supplies were defective and that they were the cause of the heat issue.

Dana

This may be a dumb question but here goes. Is it possible for a non-Directv subscriber to buy an H20 receiver soley for the purpose of using its off air ATSC tuner for an hd-ready display? I have found the H20 much less expensive than other off air ATSC tuners on the market. Thanks.

Dan: Until card is activated, the unit will not operate.

This may be a dumb question but here goes. Is it possible for a non-Directv subscriber to buy an H20 receiver soley for the purpose of using its off air ATSC tuner for an hd-ready display? I have found the H20 much less expensive than other off air ATSC tuners on the market. Thanks.

The Samsung 360 HD receiver can be used as an OTA tuner w/o activation by D*. There may be some available used as the H20 is replacing it.

Dana

Beware buying a used D* receiver for OTA-only use. Some models require that an access card be inserted in the receiver in order to access the setup menu. Make sure one is included if you buy a used Samsung TS160 receiver. The TS360 does not need an access card.

No subscription required on pre-H20 models, though.

Dan: Until card is activated, the unit will not operate.
That is interesting. A Crutchfield representative told me the H20 would work for non D* subscribers for OTA viewing.

At any rate, my family does subscribe to D*. Currently we have 2 receivers. Could I take the access card from our 2nd D10 receiver, pull it out and put it in the new H20 I just ordered and avoid having to activate, etc?

You cant use the H20 at all, not even as an OTA tuner unless you are a D* subscriber. So basically, the only difference between the new customers leasing it and the old customers who own it is the new customers will have to send theirs back if they ever cancel. If people who own their H20 cancel, it will be good for nothing more than taking up space.

The Crutchfield guy is an idiot an the answer to your access card question is NO.

I just activated my H20-600 today. I managed to get all my OTA before calling them to activate it. An access card is probably needed for the setup to work.

OTA will not work without activating the H20-100.

One thing to remember: If Directv gave you a h-20 (before they were leased), it only has a warranty of 3 months. To me, that shows not much confidence in the unit lasting very long. But my main point here is..it is better to have a leased unit from Directv. Then, it will be replaced in the future at no cost. Directv will probably replace a unit you own (free) for a few more months but certainly not indefinitely. Bottom line, as I did, get rid of the h-20 you own and lease a receiver from Directv. I am going to do same thing with the other h-20 I own.

Dan: a card and a receiver work together. You can not use a card from another receiver. Of course, any card and any receiver can be used together but the combo stops there. Bottom line..one card, one receiver.

One thing to remember: If Directv gave you a h-20 (before they were leased), it only has a warranty of 3 months. To me, that shows not much confidence in the unit lasting very long. But my main point here is..it is better to have a leased unit from Directv. Then, it will be replaced in the future at no cost. Directv will probably replace a unit you own (free) for a few more months but certainly not indefinitely. Bottom line, as I did, get rid of the h-20 you own and lease a receiver from Directv. I am going to do same thing with the other h-20 I own.

I have the D* protection plan:

I got a replacement for my HR-10-250 last month after the HD failed; and a new dish installed/relocated after some bushes grew in and blocked its reception; all at no charge

Highly recommended :)

"I have the D* protection plan... ...Highly recommended"
You voluntarily pay D* an extra $70 a year for protection?

My prior experiences with poorly trained and incompetent D* technical support & service leads me to avoid them if at all possible. I'd NEVER pay them extra for their so-called services.

Even more so now that D* is leasing and will replace defective equipment at no charge...

I've had D* service for over 10 years and have had to buy replacement receivers for a few units that quit working. I've even replaced/upgraded hard drives in my DiRectTiVOs too. But I'd say that over-all I am way ahead for not having paid them $700 or $800 for "protection". I do generally avoid all "protection" plans though.

I'm happy that you made out well when they replaced your DVR... But I'll take my chances and NOT have to dance with the D* devils. ;)

I must say, thru the years, Directv has treated me most fair. I have gotten most of the receivers free and all the dishes with install free. And I was able to get good local installers to do the work. I have not given any money to Directv (for equipment and installs) for past 5 years. Now, the leased equipment should be replaced..no charge.

I must say, thru the years, Directv has treated me most fair. I have gotten most of the receivers free and all the dishes with install free. And I was able to get good local installers to do the work. I have not given any money to Directv (for equipment and installs) for past 5 years. Now, the leased equipment should be replaced..no charge.
Whenever a receiver of mine has failed (lightning, usually?) I've always just paid to replace it... I don't object to having to do that --- because it hasn't happened often. In any case I wouldn't blame D* because of it failing anyway.

Until the H20 I've always installed my own equipment. I have to say that I was thoroughly displeased with the level of "free" service provided with my H20 installation. But, I'd probably feel the same if a cable tech did an install. :)

Generally speaking, insurance has always seemed like a scam to me... If I want to gamble I'd much rather go to Vegas where at least gamblers get free drinks. :D

Thanks, but I think I'll pass on the D* Protection Plan.

All depends on location. Being in Miami (hurricane and lightning central) Ive had to realign my dish four times since it was first installed two years ago (Amazingly it held on during Hurricane Wilma). I know its something I can do myself, but the 30ft. climb is not my forte. Plus my association requires mounting in a specific point where you cant use all four screws on the base of the dish.

Ive also had two receivers go bad, one just stopped transmitting video and the other, a TIVO unit had a bad hard drive. So far, Id like to think Im ahead of the fees if I were to have bought the equipment over again. D* Protection works for me!

Hey guys,

I tried searching this thread, but couldn't find a direct response. I just got my girlfriend an H20 for the Sony 32" HD CRT that I gave her -- I own a Hughes E86 for my KDS-R50XBR1.

I like the H20, but not enough to ditch my E86. However, the H20 has HDMI out. Am I missing anything by feeding my KDS a component signal from Hughes as opposed to an HDMI signal?

Thanks for the input.

Hey guys, I tried searching this thread, but couldn't find a direct response. I just got my girlfriend an H20 for the Sony 32" HD CRT that I gave her -- I own a Hughes E86 for my KDS-R50XBR1. I like the H20, but not enough to ditch my E86. However, the H20 has HDMI out. Am I missing anything by feeding my KDS a component signal from Hughes as opposed to an HDMI signal? Thanks for the input.
In my opinion, there isn't a big difference in PQ when comparing my HDMI and component signals. I don't believe you're really missing too much and I wouldn't replace a perfectly good HD receiver simply because it doesn't have a HDMI output.

Does the Sony 32" have component inputs? If so, connect the set with both HDMI & component cables and jsee for yourself... Or, just take my word for it. :D

Hey guys,

I tried searching this thread, but couldn't find a direct response. I just got my girlfriend an H20 for the Sony 32" HD CRT that I gave her -- I own a Hughes E86 for my KDS-R50XBR1.

I like the H20, but not enough to ditch my E86. However, the H20 has HDMI out. Am I missing anything by feeding my KDS a component signal from Hughes as opposed to an HDMI signal?
You and your girlfriend should swap receivers.

The H20 blows the E86 out of the water on both SD & HD picture quality, especially on a bigger screen TV.

If I still had an E86, I would get H20 for the PQ alone.

Arkansas vs. Florida. Two back-to-back yet polar opposite responses.

Guess I'll have to do my own homework.

The h-20-100 is, overall, a cooler running receiver than the e-86 and is better on video/audio. The newest units are somewhat 'quick'. Just keep the h-20 running as cool as possible and it will give you a great picture. By the way, little advantage in HDMI connects over components. Stay with the tried and true. The current best thing is to lease a h-20-100 from Directv.

I agree that you'll see little or no difference in PQ between component & HDMI connections. But you should see a big difference in both SD & HD picture quality using the H20 vs a 1st generation Hughes E86 receiver.

The main difference between HDMI and Component is that HDMi transfers a pure digital signal from the reciever to your TV. Component carries a DAC signal from the receiver to the TV.

Arkansas vs. Florida. Two back-to-back yet polar opposite responses. Guess I'll have to do my own homework.
Hey Ferrari, I thought you were just doing your homework by asking the question in the first place? :)

Wasn't your question whether or not you were missing something by not having HDMI.

I think you can trust what arxaw said about the differences between the H20 and E86. And as he added --- there isn't a tremendous difference between connecting via HDMI & Component. I also agree with his suggestion that you simply swap receivers with your girlfriend... BTW, why did you only buy her a 32" Sony? You probably watch it as much as she does? :eek:

Are you trying to start an Arkansas / Florida dispute? If so, I'll be glad to stipulate to arxaw's superior knowledge... :D

This forum has proven to be a fountain of information to me. Without it I would still be wondering what a HDMI connection is.

I need some advice. I moved at the beginning of last month and D* came out and installed a new 5LNB dish and a H20-600 for me. It was not installed on my main HDTV (I use the HD Tivo there) but instead in my hearth room (which is mainly for my kids to watch, and perhaps to have something on while waiting for dinner). Point is, I don't watch via that receiver too much so I haven't been seeing alot of the problems that other H20-600 users have. Yes, it does get hot, and the guide/menus are terribly slow, occasionally when using the add/remove channels thing in the menu, it's rebooted (but never while watching TV).

Is that enough to call D* and try and get a replacement to a H20-100? It's leased, and only a month old, so I guess I could get it done for free, but what if they bring another 600 and it's a hosed one?

The main difference between HDMI and Component is that HDMi transfers a pure digital signal from the reciever to your TV. Component carries a DAC signal from the receiver to the TV.But just because it's "pure digital" doesn't mean the picture will be any better. And on a CRT HDTV, there should be no improvement using HDMI, since a CRT display has to convert the HDMI digital signal to analog information in order to display the video.

Regardless, one should always try both connections and use your own eyes choose which connection looks best. Different combinations of displays, cables and devices you connect to them vary widely in connection quality.

... I haven't been seeing alot of the problems that other H20-600 users have. Yes, it does get hot, and the guide/menus are terribly slow, occasionally when using the add/remove channels thing in the menu, it's rebooted (but never while watching TV)...To me, the problems you mentioned would be enough to call D* for a replacement, especially since you're leasing.

Telling D* the receiver is "running way too hot and reboots sometimes" should get a replacement sent to you, with a prepaid return shipping label. Note that your odds of getting an H20-100 go way down if you request a technician bring out and install a replacement box from local dealer stock. Many on this forum have reported that techs are still bringing H20-600s with them.... YMMV, of course.

Regarding a multi-switch, I want to run two receivers (1 H20, 1 not) in the same room off one homerun coax cable to the 5LNB dish. I assume I can use a multi-switch at the cable as it comes into the room, then hook each receiver up to it. Would there be a problem with this?

Do I need a specific type of mulit-switch, or can I get one anywhere, like Radio Shack, Best Buy, etc?

Thanks in advance for any responses.

"...if you request a technician"
I'd say go ahead and report the problem and let D* decide whether or not you should get a replacement receiver... Take your chances that the new receiver will work better than the old one --- because I think that the odds are in your favor that you'll get a H20-100 if you have D* ship you a replacement.

Replacing my H20 was very simple... Swapped a few cables and re-ran guided setup... Nothing "requiring" a technician? Especially if you're unlucky enough to get a "typical" D* tech... My personal philosophy is to avoid having a D* technician when ever possible... :p

writenick: Seems OK to me. But, as you split a signal, it loses some strength. I have a switch box just inside the basement wall (where the Directv cable comes in) and, from that, I run 2 wires to 2 separate Directv receivers.

If a receiver is running 'very hot', sooner or later it will break down one or more componets. Of course, this could take months or even a year or 2.

My bro-in-law just got a H20-600 about a month ago and after much wrangling it is working, mostly. They live in a hi-rise condo in Chicago that has DTV (as opposed to CATV) and every service request has to go through the bldg mgt (ugh!). So here's the issue:
Our local channels are:
2 - WBBM - CBS
5 - WMAQ - NBC
7 - WLS - ABC

The H20 shows 2 channels for each, the 2nd shows the network logo, the 1st does not. If you press "2" on the remote, the H20 will switch to ch2 but there is no signal. If you then press Channel Up (CH+) you will go to a viewable channel 2. Same thing for 5 & 7. We've tried entering "02", "002", and "0002", all with the same result. We've tried removing one of the channels in the Custom Channels menu. We've had conversations with DTV (I know, waste of time) and Best Buy (bigger waste of time). When the H20 switches to the bad channel, it flashes the good channel for a second as though it's trying to go there, but then ends up on the bad channel anyway.
OK, so not quite as significant as nukes in Iran, but it's damned annoying! Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Dave

Cool, thanks for the advice guys. I'll call them today and specifically ask them to just ship it to me (rather than wait for an installer). I'll report back which version I receive to give some feedback for others that might try the same.

My bro-in-law just got a H20-600 about a month ago and after much wrangling it is working, mostly. They live in a hi-rise condo in Chicago that has DTV (as opposed to CATV) and every service request has to go through the bldg mgt (ugh!). So here's the issue:
Our local channels are:
2 - WBBM - CBS
5 - WMAQ - NBC
7 - WLS - ABC

The H20 shows 2 channels for each, the 2nd shows the network logo, the 1st does not. If you press "2" on the remote, the H20 will switch to ch2 but there is no signal. If you then press Channel Up (CH+) you will go to a viewable channel 2. Same thing for 5 & 7. We've tried entering "02", "002", and "0002", all with the same result. We've tried removing one of the channels in the Custom Channels menu. We've had conversations with DTV (I know, waste of time) and Best Buy (bigger waste of time). When the H20 switches to the bad channel, it flashes the good channel for a second as though it's trying to go there, but then ends up on the bad channel anyway.
OK, so not quite as significant as nukes in Iran, but it's damned annoying! Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Dave

Can't tell from your post whether your brother-in-law is using an antenna to get these digital stations OTA. If so, he needs to use the (-) to tune them in. In other words 2-1, 5-1, 7-1. The "regular" 2, 5 and 7 are either the analog versions or the D* MPEG4 HD versions (in which case you would need the 5lnb dish to tune them in. Hope this helps...

Dave: Go into 'favorites' and bring up the channels you receive. You may see, as I do..3 or 4 'channel 2'...save the 2-1 channel and not the others. This could be under your favorite one list. Then, under your local OTA list, you will see this 2-1. Highlite it. Or you can just type in 2-1. Actually, on the h-20-100 receiver you can just hit '2' and you will be taken to the 2-1 digital station.

My bro-in-law just got a H20-600 about a month ago and after much wrangling it is working, mostly. They live in a hi-rise condo in Chicago that has DTV (as opposed to CATV) and every service request has to go through the bldg mgt (ugh!). So here's the issue:
Our local channels are:
2 - WBBM - CBS
5 - WMAQ - NBC
7 - WLS - ABC

The H20 shows 2 channels for each, the 2nd shows the network logo, the 1st does not. If you press "2" on the remote, the H20 will switch to ch2 but there is no signal. If you then press Channel Up (CH+) you will go to a viewable channel 2. Same thing for 5 & 7. We've tried entering "02", "002", and "0002", all with the same result. We've tried removing one of the channels in the Custom Channels menu. We've had conversations with DTV (I know, waste of time) and Best Buy (bigger waste of time). When the H20 switches to the bad channel, it flashes the good channel for a second as though it's trying to go there, but then ends up on the bad channel anyway.
OK, so not quite as significant as nukes in Iran, but it's damned annoying! Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Dave
I get D* local (Mpeg4) HD channels from Tampa Florida and not OTA. My H20 guide displays two separate channels for each network (like you describe). In my case, the station's first channel listing is for the HD programming and the second is for the station's SD programming.

When I select a local channel (for instance CBS channel 10) using the remote's number pad it takes me to the station's HD channel. If I then hit the channel-up remote button it takes me to the station's non-HD channel. Occasionally, during the NCAA tournament the local CBS (Tampa) affiliate was actually broadcasting two different games --- one on the HD channel and a different game on the non-HD channel...

It sounds to me as if the HD signal feeds are not being displayed on your set. Do you get the audio even though there is no picture?

It's possible that you need to adjust a setting on the H20 or your monitor to receive the HD video signal? You MIGHT not be viewing HD programming at all? In which case the situation would resemble the weapons of mass destruction that were not in Iraq. ;)

What monitor or HD television does he have? How did you set the resolution setting on the H20? How is the H20 connected to his display (HDMI, DVI or Component cabling?)

Do you get a picture when you select one of the national D* HD channels like HBOH or ESPN-HD?


Not very much help am I? :)

Regarding a multi-switch, I want to run two receivers (1 H20, 1 not) in the same room off one homerun coax cable to the 5LNB dish. I assume I can use a multi-switch at the cable as it comes into the room, then hook each receiver up to it. Would there be a problem with this?

Do I need a specific type of mulit-switch, or can I get one anywhere, like Radio Shack, Best Buy, etc?

Thanks in advance for any responses.
writenick,

You cannot run one line then split it out to 2 receivers. The multiswitches require 4 inputs to switch the 3 or 5 lnb dishes.
There are 2 ways to run this: 1) If you don not have a multiswitch you have 4 output connection points on the dish. You need to run 2 cables from the dish, 1 to each receiver. 2) If you have a switch you will run 4 lines from the dish to the switch then have 8 output connections on the switch. You will need to run a line directly from the switch to each receiver.
The reason for this is that there are 4 combinations of signals coming from the dish. Which combination gets sent depends on what satelite and transponder the channel you are watching is on. Your receivers send out either 13 or 18 DCV to pick which set of transpoders, even or odd, and a 22kHz tone or no tone to pick the set of sats needed. So if one receiver is tuned to a channel that requires no tone and 13V and another is tuned to a channel that requires either 18V or the 22kHz tone then the first receiver will show no signal if they are both on the same line going to the switch or dish. Even if you are only watching one receiver at a time you wouldn't want to split the line because you will be backfeeding voltage into the receiver you are not watching. It is designed to send voltage out not receive it, and this could damage the receiver.

Bottom line there is no way to split a single D* cable.

Cool, thanks for the advice guys. I'll call them today and specifically ask them to just ship it to me (rather than wait for an installer). I'll report back which version I receive to give some feedback for others that might try the same.

Update - I called them after posting this. Talked to one CSR, told her my problem, she transferred me to a tech CSR. Told her my problem, and she said "I don't know nothing about that HD stuff" and transferred me to a 2nd tier tech CSR. 3rd time telling my issues, and she's sending me a replacement H20 FedEx with a return label. Hopefully it will be a H20-100 and not a -600.

Update - I called them after posting this. Talked to one CSR, told her my problem, she transferred me to a tech CSR. Told her my problem, and she said "I don't know nothing about that HD stuff" and transferred me to a 2nd tier tech CSR. 3rd time telling my issues, and she's sending me a replacement H20 FedEx with a return label. Hopefully it will be a H20-100 and not a -600.
It most likely will be a "100". If not, and the replacement still gets hot and has any other problem --- just do it all over again... :) Won't cost you anything except for your time and troubles.

I wonder if D* has a good benefits package for their employees? Do they pay well? I think that I want a job as a "middle tier" CSR for D*! :D All they have to do (it seems to me) is ask you the same questions the other CSRs have previously asked you and then transfer your call to a different CSR who again asks the same questions all over again. Even I could do that!

D* CSR: "What's your phone number; what name is the account under; who are you? What is the problem you are experiencing? Please hold and I'll transfer you to someone who can help you."

Originally Posted by thatdaveguy69
My bro-in-law just got a H20-600 about a month ago and after much wrangling it is working, mostly. They live in a hi-rise condo in Chicago that has DTV (as opposed to CATV) and every service request has to go through the bldg mgt (ugh!). So here's the issue:
Our local channels are:
2 - WBBM - CBS
5 - WMAQ - NBC
7 - WLS - ABC

The H20 shows 2 channels for each, the 2nd shows the network logo, the 1st does not. If you press "2" on the remote, the H20 will switch to ch2 but there is no signal. If you then press Channel Up (CH+) you will go to a viewable channel 2. Same thing for 5 & 7. We've tried entering "02", "002", and "0002", all with the same result. We've tried removing one of the channels in the Custom Channels menu. We've had conversations with DTV (I know, waste of time) and Best Buy (bigger waste of time). When the H20 switches to the bad channel, it flashes the good channel for a second as though it's trying to go there, but then ends up on the bad channel anyway.
OK, so not quite as significant as nukes in Iran, but it's damned annoying! Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Dave

You will see 2-WBBM & 2-CH2 The First one is HD the other is the SD feed. You will also see a 2.1 feed that is "greyed" out, these are OTA simulcast channels and you do not receive them.

7 - WLS & 7 - CH7
5 - WMAQ & 5 CH5

There is also a list of simulcast under each of these. Always first go to the station with call letters this is the HD feed in Chicagoland.

It does take approx. 2-3 seconds for the H20 to "switch" to the channel. There also has been alot of lip-sync problems. These seem to be getting better.

THX, jjsmagic.

"You will also see a 2.1 feed that is "greyed" out, these are OTA simulcast channels and you do not receive them."
He probably doesn't have an OTA antenna what with living in a hi-rise condo?

If "do you have an OTA antenna" is not chosen when doing the H20 guided setup, I don't think the OTA channels are displayed at all in the H20 guide... or are they?

More info on the setup:
No antenna so no OTA signal. You either use DTV or nothing at all.
I have no idea what size dish/how many LBA's are in use. It's a 40+ story bldg so I have to assume something fairly beefy.
Some HD channels DO show up as HD: we watched some Top Fuel drag racing on ESPN-HD yesterday afternoon.
When you select "2" and the H20 displays the "no signal" message, there is no sound and the channel does not change to the correct one after any period of time.
When you use the menu to display the HD channels, 2, 5, & 7 are listed but when you go to one of them (using the CH+ key) I don't think we're seeing the HD signal.
If we remove either of the "2's" from the channel list we cannot get to the good "2".

The TV is a 50" Pioneer plasma, the type with a separate I/O box. We are usig a DMI (small, video + audio) line to the box from the H20.

IMHO: If we had our own dish, ie on a house, as opposed to going thru' some weird building-operated setup I'm pretty sure we wouldn't have these issues.
But then again, if it were a house, I'd tell them to order Comcast. :D I've been running Comcast HD/DVR for over a year to a Sony 42" Plasma. It's worked flawlessly from Day 1. :) I have an atenna on the roof so I get all the .1 & .2 channels OTA. and the main HD channels via cable. The TV has a CableCard so I don't need a box except to record/playback. I gave up on DTV years ago after one-too-many rain-storms took out my signal.

Thanks for all the replies - I hope someone has the answer!

Dave




My bro-in-law just got a H20-600 about a month ago and after much wrangling it is working, mostly. They live in a hi-rise condo in Chicago that has DTV (as opposed to CATV) and every service request has to go through the bldg mgt (ugh!). So here's the issue:
Our local channels are:
2 - WBBM - CBS
5 - WMAQ - NBC
7 - WLS - ABC

The H20 shows 2 channels for each, the 2nd shows the network logo, the 1st does not. If you press "2" on the remote, the H20 will switch to ch2 but there is no signal. If you then press Channel Up (CH+) you will go to a viewable channel 2. Same thing for 5 & 7. We've tried entering "02", "002", and "0002", all with the same result. We've tried removing one of the channels in the Custom Channels menu. We've had conversations with DTV (I know, waste of time) and Best Buy (bigger waste of time). When the H20 switches to the bad channel, it flashes the good channel for a second as though it's trying to go there, but then ends up on the bad channel anyway.
OK, so not quite as significant as nukes in Iran, but it's damned annoying! Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Dave

Bottom line there is no way to split a single D* cable.

Thank you for your answer. I got three different answers from D*. I just cancelled the 2nd receiver order.

My existing coax cable is underground into the house and I don't want to run another cable so I will stick with what I have.

Thank you.

I have the H20 caller ID problem. Asked D* for a replacement H20 to (maybe) fix it. My box is a 600. I received another 600. It did not fix the caller ID problem AND it locked up occasionally and took 3 to 5 seconds longer to switch channels when it got too hot. It ran about 5 degrees hotter than my original 600. Luckily I kept my original 600, swapped it back, and shipped the replacement back to D*.

The first point is that they would not insure that I could get a 100 as a replacement so I declined to ask them for another unit to fix the original caller ID problem. I guess I will just live with it until I think of something else. The second point is that I got my original H20 delivered and installed on November 28th for a $14.99 shipping charge. If there is a 90 day warranty on the H20 they waived it for me and never mentioned it at all on any of my calls to them. Does anyone have an example of D* invoking the 90 day warranty on a defective box?

The Hi-Rize condo, is most likely not utilizing the 5-LNB dish and you are not getting the locals in HD. You can still get the NY Feeds and the ESPN, HDN HD feeds separately. I had the same display, prior to my install of the 5-LNB dish.

THX, jjsmagic

The Hi-Rize condo, is most likely not utilizing the 5-LNB dish and you are not getting the locals in HD. You can still get the NY Feeds and the ESPN, HDN HD feeds separately. I had the same display, prior to my install of the 5-LNB dish.
If this is the case (no 5LNB dish present and no antenna), I'm guessing:
• 5LNB dish was incorrectly chosen in Dish setup menu.
• A local zip code was entered in the OTA antenna setup menu.

This would add a multitude of unviewable channels to the guide.

billt: My h-20-600 was out of warranty but Directv did send replacement and I sent the h-20-600 back to Directv in a prepaid FedX box. I have not paid anything for equipment from directv for years. This h-20-100 I bow lease and Directv will repair or replace it any time in the future (no charge). I have another h-20-600 I plan on exchanging for a leased receiver. From now on, I think the odds are in favor of getting a h-20-100 on a lease.

I have a H20 600 ird. No problem except with OTA HD. I get drop outs. When I watch OTA channels , the channels drops for 1 sec and comes back. I bought this receiver from Best Buys. Do I just return it there or contact Directv?

Hey Ferrari, I thought you were just doing your homework by asking the question in the first place? :)

Wasn't your question whether or not you were missing something by not having HDMI.

I think you can trust what arxaw said about the differences between the H20 and E86. And as he added --- there isn't a tremendous difference between connecting via HDMI & Component. I also agree with his suggestion that you simply swap receivers with your girlfriend... BTW, why did you only buy her a 32" Sony? You probably watch it as much as she does? :eek:

Are you trying to start an Arkansas / Florida dispute? If so, I'll be glad to stipulate to arxaw's superior knowledge... :D

This forum has proven to be a fountain of information to me. Without it I would still be wondering what a HDMI connection is.

I'm just teasing. I've been trolling AVS for a long time, and it is indeed a fountain of knowledge, as you put it.

As for the 32" Sony, it used to be mine. I bought it three years ago for its PQ, but recently decided to upgrade to the KDS-R50XBR1, so the g/f gets it as a hand-me-down. It's a definite step up from her 27" ED Sony CRT.

H20-100 vs 600 signal level

How do the two receivers compare at pulling in OTA signals? Early on I thought I saw someone state that the 600 was better at reception for OTA than the 100. I'm interested because I'm in the fringe area (about 60 miles out) but get great reception with the 600. I want to get something that runs cooler and faster but not at the cost of poorer reception.

fkubick: IF their signal meters are set at the same reference, then, the 100 and 600 are very close in sensitivity. On OTA the 600 reads 2 points better (average) than the 100 and on Directv transponders, the 100 reads about 2 points (average) higher than the 600. I notice no difference in the reception of OTA and Directv between the 2. Right now, I have a 100 and a 600 in the house. The 100 does run cooler and it has performed perfectly for over 2 weeks now with zero dropouts on audio/video. And it is a faster unit, overall, then the 600. The 100 has a larger case and is lighter. I believe most units being sent out now by Directv are from Mexico (the 100 receiver).

Richard,

Tks for the advice. I called D* and they're sending a replacement unit.

As for the 32" Sony, it used to be mine. I bought it three years ago for its PQ, but recently decided to upgrade to the KDS-R50XBR1, so the g/f gets it as a hand-me-down. It's a definite step up from her 27" ED Sony CRT.
Shame on you for sticking her with your hand-me-downs! :D

A 32" Sony CRT isn't exactly junk, though, is it? :)

billt: My h-20-600 was out of warranty but Directv did send replacement and I sent the h-20-600 back to Directv in a prepaid FedX box. I have not paid anything for equipment from directv for years. This h-20-100 I bow lease and Directv will repair or replace it any time in the future (no charge). I have another h-20-600 I plan on exchanging for a leased receiver. From now on, I think the odds are in favor of getting a h-20-100 on a lease.

Why are you going to exchange your 600? And how can you be sure you won't have to go through a half dozen exchanges to get a 100? If I were sure of getting a 100 I would try another swap out.

bill: My current h-20-600 runs much warmer than the newer h-20-100 I just received 2 weeks ago. Zero dropouts and perfect performance, so far, with this unit. My warranty has expired on my 600. If I wait much longer to exchange it for a 100 I will probably have to pay some money. Once I get the new 100 receiver, there will be no charges for future repairs. (Or Direct will exchange it). I have not paid in years for a new receiver and do not want to do so in the future. It is just my opinion but I feel the 100 modle is somewhat better (overall) than the 600 model. Directv has certainly addressed the heating problem with this newest edition. Most units shipped today seem to be from Mexico (100). I think Directv is getting tired of replacing 600 units. Of course, over the coming months, the 100 may prove no more reliable than the 600. It is mostly a crap-shoot, afterall. But, then, better Directv own the unit than me.

I have a H20 600 ird. No problem except with OTA HD. I get drop outs. When I watch OTA channels , the channels drops for 1 sec and comes back. I bought this receiver from Best Buys. Do I just return it there or contact Directv?All receiver exchanges are being handled by DirecTV, although you may not have a bad receiver. That sounds like an OTA reception problem, (e.g. you need to re-aim your OTA antenna or get a different antenna).

Check the local reception thread for your specific area (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=45&page=2&sort=lastpost&order=&pp=35&daysprune=7) to see what kind of OTA antenna works best where you live.

cosmos: Tell us your your signal strength from OTA stations. Do the numbers 'jump around'.? With the 600 you should get a sterady reading of 95-100 if you have a good antenna and are within 40 miles of the transmitter. And have a directional antenna amied directly at incoming signal. If you are 40 miles (or more) from transmitter (s), you need top of line Winehard or Channel Master UHF antenna. The h-20-600 is a very fine OTA receiver..maybe the best ever. It is slightly better (sensitivity) than the h-20-100.

richard,
cosmos didn't state what city he is in. Many cities have VHF digital stations that are not always easily received with a UHF antenna (especially chs 2-6). Chicago and Las Vegas are examples.

That's why I suggested he check the local reception threads (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=45&page=2&sort=lastpost&order=&pp=35&daysprune=7) for his particular city.

Thanks guys! This sounds like a lead!
Question 1: If selecting the 5LNB is not the right choice, what type dish should I select in the setup menu?

Question 2: Leave zip code in OTA blank?

Question 2: This H20-600 also runs VERY hot but so far has not blanked-out - at least so far as I know. Any suggestions on how to keep this baby cool? I'm considering an external fan. I don't recall - does the H20 have a USB port? I've seen PC fans that run off a USB port and that seems like a solution.

Thanks again!

Dave


If this is the case (no 5LNB dish present and no antenna), I'm guessing:
• 5LNB dish was incorrectly chosen in Dish setup menu.
• A local zip code was entered in the OTA antenna setup menu.

This would add a multitude of unviewable channels to the guide.

My warranty has expired on my 600. If I wait much longer to exchange it for a 100 I will probably have to pay some money. Once I get the new 100 receiver, there will be no charges for future repairs. (Or Direct will exchange it). I have not paid in years for a new receiver and do not want to do so in the future. Of course, over the coming months, the 100 may prove no more reliable than the 600. It is mostly a crap-shoot, afterall. But, then, better Directv own the unit than me.

I understand all that. Is your strategy to keep returning 600 units until they send you a 100?

arxaw: Thanks for mentioning that a very few digital stations are VHF and need a VHF antenna. That is to say you will need a VHF-UHF antenna.

Dave: Do you have 2 dishes/lnb's..or a 3 lnb setup or the 5 lnb setup? Whatever actual dish set up you have, check that setup in the correct space on the set up of your receiver/dish in the set up menu.

Check the area code of the laction of the transmitters for the digital stations you want to receive. Just go to Google and ask..(example) Lansing, Mi., zip codes. Living in a certain area you may be within 40 miles or 1, 2, or 3 markets. You can also enter a secondary area code. Of course, you will probasbly need a roter if these stations are over 35 miles from your home.

Yesterday I received mail from D* through my H20-600. When I clicked on it and tried to read it my H20 locked up and I had to reboot. Anyone else have this issue?

Question 1: If selecting the 5LNB is not the right choice, what type dish should I select in the setup menu?
Question 2: Leave zip code in OTA blank?If you're sure there is not an OTA antenna connected and there is not a 5LNB dish, completely reset the receiver (in the menu) and go through the guided setup menu wizard again. I would try 3LNB dish and no OTA antenna/local markets setup. Even after doing the setup over, there may be OTA or satellite channels in the guide that you don't get. If so, create a favorite custom list and leave those channels out of the list. Also make sure you have removed all OTA channels if any appear in the OTA antenna setup menus and you don't receive OTA (w/antenna) channels.

As someone else posted, if you can't get the local HD channels you may qualify for the HD big 4 networks from NY. Enter the address here (http://directvdnseligibility.decisionmark.com/app/AddressEntry.asp) to see. If so, call D*, ask for an HD specialist and have them activated. They're free if you qualify and have the HD package.


Question 2: ... I'm considering an external fan. I don't recall - does the H20 have a USB port?Yes, and it will power a USB fan. But it doesn't shut off when you shut off the H20, so the fan would run all the time.

I understand all that. Is your strategy to keep returning 600 units until they send you a 100?
My strategy (and possibly Richard's too?) would be to keep swapping receivers until I get one that does not get hotter than Hades, doesn't pixelate like crazy, has a a caller ID that functions and/or any of the many other problems I've heard about...

Whether the replacement is a 100 or 600 really doesn't matter, does it? Of course, if you have a 600 that is bad and they send you another unit (100 or 600) that is also bad then that would be a PITA --- but your choices are make do with a bad receiver, swap receivers until you get one that works properly --- or cancel D* service... I can't think of any other choices, and I personally don't want to deal with cable or settle for a bad receiver...

I was lucky and the 100 receiver that D* sent me to replace the 600 has been working great! If it starts malfunctioning though, I'll call D* and complain. I've been told that I am one of their "best" customers... ;) They take especially good care of me... :rolleyes:

When I talked with a CSR about getting a replacement for the 600 receiver that I "bought" for free after the rebate --- if I get the rebate --- she never mentioned my leasing vs. owning the newly replaced 100 unit. She did stress that I would be required to maintain a D* subscription for a full 24-months --- which extended my previous committment by almost 2-weeks. :)

Techo: We see things eye to eye, so to speak. I have come to believe the 100 is somewhat better than the 600, in total. For sure, it has a larger case (with bigger and more holes in top). It does run cooler, for sure. I will probably end up leasing two h-20-100s. Then, we will see what happens when the '400' (?) comes along!

TechoFobe;
Funny, they said that "best" customers... " bit to me, too!
I agree, the 100 is much cooler than the 600. Maybe heat was the problem. So far the 100 is still flawless, even OTA works great.

Derg: Hey, guys, Directv said 'you are our very best customer, ever'! You are right. The absence of heat is very important to maintain the components within at their correct values. It seems, at long last, Directv is observing this fact. By the way, I keep my h-20-100 on all the time; so far, all is perfect! I do shut my plasma down (partially) at night.

Does anyones on screen caller ID actually work?
None of my receivers has had working caller ID, it didn't matter if it was a Sony, samsung or a DirecTV box, it didn't work.

Got a replacement H20-100 :)

my replacement from D* just arrived and it is the hoped for H20-100:

back goes the H20-600 toaster

mfg date of -100 is 13 Mar 2006: the -600 was 18 Dec 2005

as others have pointed out, you can see the difference immediately: larger box with more perforations in the cabinet

the larger box just barely fits in the Middle Atlantic RSH-4A custom rackshelf: they must have based it on the -600 box: anyway it works so no big deal

I feel much more comfortable with this cooler running box :cool:

markrubin: If at all possible, be sure you have lots of free space on all 6 sides. Place some feet (rubber is good) under the unit. Try to have 6 inches on free space above and it is best if you have a pole type cabinet which is open on the 4 sides. Of course, I realize, with some, this is not possible. But I believe the key here is to keep the components within as cool as possible so they keep operating at their correct values.

Moose: when a call comes in, caller ID is shown on the h20-100. It ends there because I do not subscribe to caller ID.

cosmos: Tell us your your signal strength from OTA stations. Do the numbers 'jump around'.? With the 600 you should get a sterady reading of 95-100 if you have a good antenna and are within 40 miles of the transmitter. And have a directional antenna amied directly at incoming signal. If you are 40 miles (or more) from transmitter (s), you need top of line Winehard or Channel Master UHF antenna. The h-20-600 is a very fine OTA receiver..maybe the best ever. It is slightly better (sensitivity) than the h-20-100.
Sorry be gone for awhile .. My Signal is at 80%. I am only 18 miles away from sacramento.

It most likely will be a "100". If not, and the replacement still gets hot and has any other problem --- just do it all over again... :) Won't cost you anything except for your time and troubles.

I wonder if D* has a good benefits package for their employees? Do they pay well? I think that I want a job as a "middle tier" CSR for D*! :D All they have to do (it seems to me) is ask you the same questions the other CSRs have previously asked you and then transfer your call to a different CSR who again asks the same questions all over again. Even I could do that!

D* CSR: "What's your phone number; what name is the account under; who are you? What is the problem you are experiencing? Please hold and I'll transfer you to someone who can help you."


By the way, my "600" was hot and I tried what Richard Korsgren suggested. I went to solidsignal.com and bought a bunch of rubber feet (discs, whatever). I must say the receive still runs warm, but I think it is noticeably cooler now. It sits on a desk, so it had plenty of space, except for underneath. Getting in up and off the desk seemed to be the trick.

Does anyones on screen caller ID actually work?
None of my receivers has had working caller ID, it didn't matter if it was a Sony, samsung or a DirecTV box, it didn't work.
Moose,

It didn't work with the "old" H20-600 unit --- simply displayed a message that said "Call Your Phone Company".

The "new" H20-100 unit's Caller ID works great... Keeps a log of received calls too. Now if it would only screen my calls for me. :D

The Hi-Rize condo, is most likely not utilizing the 5-LNB dish and you are not getting the locals in HD. You can still get the NY Feeds and the ESPN, HDN HD feeds separately. I had the same display, prior to my install of the 5-LNB dish.

THX, jjsmagic


I think you have that exactly right. It must be the 3-LNB dish.

Does anyones on screen caller ID actually work?
None of my receivers has had working caller ID, it didn't matter if it was a Sony, samsung or a DirecTV box, it didn't work.


I've had the H10, H20 and Samsung boxes. All work correctly with caller id. I have had both Verizon and currently Vonage service. There was no issue at any time.

Moose,

It didn't work with the "old" H20-600 unit --- simply displayed a message that said "Call Your Phone Company".

The "new" H20-100 unit's Caller ID works great... Keeps a log of received calls too. Now if it would only screen my calls for me. :D


I should clarify as well. Both H20's I have are 600's and both work fine. I have noticed 1 time some sort of funky message when a call came in. But that was it.

Moose,

It didn't work with the "old" H20-600 unit --- simply displayed a message that said "Call Your Phone Company".

The "new" H20-100 unit's Caller ID works great... Keeps a log of received calls too. Now if it would only screen my calls for me. :D
I get the message telling me that a call is coming in & I need to suscribe to caller ID but I do have caller ID.

I've had the H10, H20 and Samsung boxes. All work correctly with caller id. I have had both Verizon and currently Vonage service. There was no issue at any time.

My H20-600 and my Sammy 360 both work fine with Verizon Caller ID.

Dana

By the way, guys, look for Gino8 and let us try to help him out with his problem with the h-20 and, perhaps, beyond. He should be dropping by.

markrubin: If at all possible, be sure you have lots of free space on all 6 sides. Place some feet (rubber is good) under the unit. Try to have 6 inches on free space above and it is best if you have a pole type cabinet which is open on the 4 sides. Of course, I realize, with some, this is not possible. But I believe the key here is to keep the components within as cool as possible so they keep operating at their correct values.

I agree: I cannot elevate the H20-100 in the M/A rackshelf but I added additional perforations in the RSH-4A bottom panel:

the -600 runs noticeably cooler than the -100: I recommend the changeout to anyone who is concerned with -600 temperatures

I noticed they gave me a complete new unit, remote control,cables, new access card et al (I used my old access card and reactivated the replacement): the caller ID works too :)

D* really made my day: I received my $200.00 rebate check today for the H20: took just 3 weeks :)

markrubin: And, remember, now you lease the h-20-100 so Directv will repair or replace it in the future..no time limit..no cost.

I get the message telling me that a call is coming in & I need to suscribe to caller ID but I do have caller ID.
Which mode; of the H20 do you have, I'm guessing you have the one made inAsia (600) and not the latest model built in Mexico (100)...

I too have Caller ID and the model 600 gave me the silly message about me needing caller ID. The replacement receiver (model 100) worked perfect the very first time and has never given me a message about needing to subscribe to caller ID. :eek:

You might want to call D* and tell them you need a replacement receiver if you care about getting caller ID which you're supposed to be getting with a H20 receiver....

Just an update on my new -100 unit. With the -600, every Monday night while watching the DC local Fox HD station, '24' would start dropping out and pixellating at about the 50 minute mark. (That definitely sounds heat-related to me since it always happened after the same amount of time.) However, this did not happen last night with my new -100 unit. In fact, I have noticed no pixellating since I got the new -100 unit.

It may blow up tonight, but so far the difference between this one and the -600 is night and day. And I still think the PQ is better as well.

D* really made my day: I received my $200.00 rebate check today for the H20: took just 3 weeks :)
You mean that rebate offer isn't just a scam? :rolleyes:

I bought my H20 7 weeks ago and haven't submitted it yet... You got yours in 3 weeks? You're kidding, right?

D* sent me a rebate form to fill out and it requires a copy of my statement and an original sales receipt or confirmation letter or email from D*. I never received a letter and since I ordered directly from D* there was no sales receipt... For some reason the D* statement that clearly shows (according to THEIR OWN records) that I purchased the H20 isn't good enough??? Sweet...

The friendly CSR that I spoke with about this problem said she would email me one and then said they couldn't do that but she would mail me a confirmation letter. I haven't received a letter yet...49 days down --- 26 days to go.

How much longer before the rebate submission deadline expires? April 30th... I just LOVE rebate scams, I mean offers. :mad:

Which mode; of the H20 do you have, I'm guessing you have the one made inAsia (600) and not the latest model built in Mexico (100)...

I too have Caller ID and the model 600 gave me the silly message about me needing caller ID. The replacement receiver (model 100) worked perfect the very first time and has never given me a message about needing to subscribe to caller ID. :eek:

You might want to call D* and tell them you need a replacement receiver if you care about getting caller ID which you're supposed to be getting with a H20 receiver....
Actually mine is the 100, I just got it a couple of days ago from D* as a replacement for a faulty 600.
Caler ID didn't work on the 600 either, at least the 100 knows when the phone is ringing even if it doesn't know I have caller ID.

I just did a system test & the phone line failed, but it knows when my phone is ringing.

You mean that rebate offer isn't just a scam? :rolleyes:

I bought my H20 7 weeks ago and haven't submitted it yet... You got yours in 3 weeks? You're kidding, right?

D* sent me a rebate form to fill out and it requires a copy of my statement and an original sales receipt or confirmation letter or email from D*. I never received a letter and since I ordered directly from D* there was no sales receipt... For some reason the D* statement that clearly shows (according to THEIR OWN records) that I purchased the H20 isn't good enough??? Sweet...

The friendly CSR that I spoke with about this problem said she would email me one and then said they couldn't do that but she would mail me a confirmation letter. I haven't received a letter yet...49 days down --- 26 days to go.

How much longer before the rebate submission deadline expires? April 30th... I just LOVE rebate scams, I mean offers. :mad:


I am not kidding

I went on line and printed out my account info since I do not receive statements by mail

I really did get my check in 3 weeks

Mark

I am not kidding. I went on line and printed out my account info since I do not receive statements by mail. I really did get my check in 3 weeks. Mark
Mark, I wasn't saying you were making it up... :)

Did you get a "confirmation letter" from D*? Did you submit the rebate along with that letter and the D* statement you printed out?

Now where is the smiley face that shows ENVY ???

Mark, I wasn't saying you were making it up... :)

Did you get a "confirmation letter" from D*? Did you submit the rebate along with that letter and the D* statement you printed out?

Now where is the smiley face that shows ENVY ???

I got a rebate form but never got a confirmation letter:

I submitted a copy of a paid receipt from a dealer and a copy of my on line account showing activation

I got a rebate form but never got a confirmation letter: I submitted a copy of a paid receipt from a dealer and a copy of my on line account showing activation

Very onteresting. A "copy" of your sales receipt was accepted? Hmmmm. I ordered mine directly thru D*... Wouldn't it make sense that they would KNOW I bought it since I paid them for it?

Oh well, my experiences with rebate offers is that "they" generally look for the slightest deviation from nit-picky "rules" just to avoid issuing a rebate...

I am going to be extremely upset if I don't get the $200 rebate from D*. But who knows maybe all will proceed --- eventually?

I also got the rebate check. Mine arrived in about a month. I also printed my info from within my account on the DirecTV website. I didn't know they were going to send the info to me later on, so I just did the best I could. I guess it was enough.

Likewise, I sent a copy of my receipt to DirectTV, and my latest bill showing my activation. The rebate showed up with a letter of thanks.

Forgive me for "double posting" but I'm desperate!

New home theater. Joy! Hitachi HDPJ52 LCD projector, 103" screen, Denon AVR-4306 receiver, Denon DVD-2910 disc player, new Rocket speaker system, SVS monster sub. Ten grand. Everything wonderful.

Then, like a fool, I decided to get HDTV. The D* techs showed up and spent HOURS trying to get the H20 to "shake hands" with my receiver. We could run HDMI straight out of the H20 to the projector. No problemo. But through the Denon? No way Jose. They actually drove two hours and picked up another receiver and came back on Saturday. Same problem. Finally went component into the receiver (HDMI out to the pj) and it worked.

I screwed with this for DAYS and finally came up with a start-up sequence (unplug H20, let sit, replug and wait until the green light rests on 720p, turn on power strip, turn on receiver) worthy of Ken Mattingley trying to get Apollo 13 cranked up for reentry. It worked!!!

I figured out that the h20 had to be constantly receiving power in order to function properly. For six weeks I've been in viewing heaven.

Then last night there was a two second power interrupt. I am back in hell. I can select "component" as my input from the h20 and get a picture. I can then (if I'm lucky) gently select the HDMI input and lo, I'm back in my input of choice. But if I change to a station with any resolution other than the one I happen to be in, I'm knocked off and the damned receiver goes into its endless search pattern: green green green green orange orange orange orange red red red red....

Denon says it's the H20. Advance tech at D* says he is sending me a new receiver. Why do I not feel hopeful?

I tried to wade through as many pages of the h20 thread as I could but couldn't find a similar problem.

Can anyone help? Please?

Moose: when a call comes in, caller ID is shown on the h20-100. It ends there because I do not subscribe to caller ID.You can disable the CID display in the setup menu.

I have two H20 receivers. On my newest one (less than 60 days old) it appears that the OTA tuner is dead. Has anyone else had a issue with the OTA tuner going bad?

How much longer before the rebate submission deadline expires? April 30th... I just LOVE rebate scams, I mean offers. :mad:

I'll say REBATE SCAMS as in whats the fracking point! :mad:

Then last night there was a two second power interrupt. I am back in hell.
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Do you have all of your ht units plugged into a power line conditioner?

Arthur,

Apparently, the problem you are having with the H20 sending HDMI through your Denon receiver to your projector is an issue that has cropped up with cable boxes as well. There is a discussion " Cable Box HDMI May Not Talk to Receivers" here http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?p=166307#post166307 Good luck.

Dana

Then, like a fool, I decided to get HDTV. The D* techs showed up and spent HOURS trying to get the H20 to "shake hands" with my receiver.
Arthur,

That power up sequence routine worked a few days for me too... But then, like you, the H20 went crazy and I couldn't pass the HDMI thru my AVR-4306.

I could VERY WELL be totally mistaken, but it's my opinion that D* techs are pretty much useless. The one that came out to "fix" my problem had no tools or equipment and I don't think he had any training either --- or else he wouldn't have told me that my problem was that I needed a Mpeg5 receiver... Mpeg5? Get the car!

If you scan back about a thousands posts or so :) you'll see my report on this... (msg # 2036 & 2041) or just search for "jamaican".

Basically the "cure" was simple for me. I insisted that D* send me a new receiver... I was "lucky" enough to get a H20-100 unit manufactured in Mexico that runs cooler, doesn't pixelate like mad and has no audio drop-outs (yet). And, my caller ID that didn't work before now works great...

But more importantly, the HDMI signals flow right thru the 4306! No handshake problems at all (knock on wood).

I will, in the future, try to avoid D* techs... At least I didn't have to pay extra for the "service" call... ;)

I'd suggest you think about trying a new 100 series H20 and see if that doesn't cure your woes...

Arthur,

Apparently, the problem you are having with the H20 sending HDMI through your Denon receiver to your projector is an issue that has cropped up with cable boxes as well. There is a discussion " Cable Box HDMI May Not Talk to Receivers" here http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?p=166307#post166307 Good luck.

Dana

Thanks for this Link:

I agree this is a big piece to the whole HDMI 'mess'

switcher/scalers and receivers with HDMI capabilities are considered HDMI repeater devices and many set top boxes have not been fully debugged to work properly going through these devices: connecting the stb direct to the display may fix the problem

"...connecting the stb direct to the display may fix the problem..."

In my opinion that is NOT a "fix" --- it's a work-around --- and not a very good one either. Better than nothing, but that's it?

My car didn't start yesterday. The fix was for me to walk... :D

After paying a lot extra for a receiver capable of switching and converting video via HDMI --- not being able to use that expensive equipment because an output device doesn't properly implement HDMI 1.1 protocol is NOT acceptable.

Thankfully, some STBs with upgraded firmware (along with the H20-100) can now properly pass HDMI signals to receivers and work properly...

I "predict" that "someday" all devices will be able to send HDMI signals through HDMI capable receivers... :)

As for myself, I still use RCA connects (audio) and component connections (video). At this point, for me, I see no advantage in using any thing other than these proven connects. I understand (profit driven) new things come along every few years. Afterall, within 10 years or so, something will replace HDMI. it is just the nature of the game.

TechoFobe

perhaps 'fix' was not a proper choice: I should have said:

as a test, connect the stb direct to the display, bypassing the repeater device, to see if this is the problem

No doubt these issues can be fixed in firmware but I agree it is unacceptable

As for myself, I still use RCA connects (audio) and component connections (video). At this point, for me, I see no advantage in using any thing other than these proven connects. I understand (profit driven) new things come along every few years. Afterall, within 10 years or so, something will replace HDMI. it is just the nature of the game.
No advantage??
You don't like 5.1 surround & the best HD signal??

A great pic is just 1/2 the reason to go HD, 5.1 is the other half of the equasion.

HDMI will be needed to get the highest quality from next gen DVD players, since the componet output will be down rezzed.

Tos link & HDMI are more than just higher profits for the companys that make them, you just can't get the best audio & video signal without them.
Your shorting yourself with the "old" standards

"TechoFobe, perhaps 'fix' was not a proper choice..."
Mark,

I just feel lucky that the new H20-100 actually fixed the problem or else I would be forced to connect directly to the monitor (swapping cables between the H20 and DVD?) or use component connections... Truthfully, I can't really see much difference between HDMI and component. But that's not the point! :) It's the principle of the matter isn't it? :D

The MOOSE: I have tried DVI and HMDI, etc. As stated I am using what I have been for years. Of course, I have heard 5.1 and 7.1 and so on. I have been listening to audio for 50 years and have always had tube (valve equipment). To me, it is the best (and we all have our own opinions, as it should be). I set up my audio system for music first and foremost. Take my word on this..if a audio system is set up correctly (and has the right quality equipment) you will auto get a 'center' speaker" without having a center speaker. You will also get front to back depth with 2 quality speakers. All of this is true for music and the spoken word. Bottom line, I prefer quality over quanity. Now, if I had $75,000 to duplicate my stereo system with 7 speakers (and associated equipment) I would probably get a 'better' sound. But, as always, I prefer to keep the system of the highest quality and simple as possible. Bottom line, when Frank Sinatra sings, he is in our living room. And his voice is centered exactly between the 2 Duntech speakers. And the band is spread out..left to right..behind him. I, also, respect and appreciate the opinions of others and what they prefer in reproduction. To each his own, as they say.

The Moose: By the way, it makes no business sense to restrict the new HD players to HD over HDMI connects only. I feel confident HD content will flow over component connections as well. there are many millions of tvs in the home..a vast potential market for HD DVDs. Now, of course, some studios may restrict some movies from being shown in HD over component. But this is probably well into the future. By the way, my equipment has HDMI connects so, one day, I may go that way if forced. But, today, will leave well enough alone.

The MOOSE: I have tried DVI and HMDI, etc. As stated I am using what I have been for years. Of course, I have heard 5.1 and 7.1 and so on. I have been listening to audio for 50 years and have always had tube (valve equipment). To me, it is the best (and we all have our own opinions, as it should be). I set up my audio system for music first and foremost. Take my word on this..if a audio system is set up correctly (and has the right quality equipment) you will auto get a 'center' speaker" without having a center speaker. You will also get front to back depth with 2 quality speakers. All of this is true for music and the spoken word. Bottom line, I prefer quality over quanity. Now, if I had $75,000 to duplicate my stereo system with 7 speakers (and associated equipment) I would probably get a 'better' sound. But, as always, I prefer to keep the system of the highest quality and simple as possible. Bottom line, when Frank Sinatra sings, he is in our living room. And his voice is centered exactly between the 2 Duntech speakers. And the band is spread out..left to right..behind him. I, also, respect and appreciate the opinions of others and what they prefer in reproduction. To each his own, as they say.
I have my 7.1 speaker system for movie audio. I also have two dedicated stereo speakers for music. Separate amps... Not a $75,000 system by about $65,000 --- but --- a compromise. If I only listened to music I would agree that 7.1 is no big deal... But I don't listen to only music, and 7.1 makes all the difference in the world with movie soundtracks recorded in surround. IMHO.

I'd guess that your system sounds much better than mine when listening to music?

I upgraded my A/V receiver because --- IN MY OPINION --- the improved PQ available with component / HDMI is significant... I recently popped for a HD plasma screen monitor and I didn't even bother to hook up the yellow RCA plugs to it... Composite connections for high-definition? Blasphemy? :)

I do appreciate the fact that you much prefer your particular setup. And rightfully so! That's what personal preference is ALL about! There's no right or wrong... It comes down to cost?

But, one size does NOT fit all. :D

Techo: I am sure you have a very good system and I am happy for you. I would love to hear your system and wish that you could listen to my system. Enjoy!

Thanks for all the feedback. D* is sending a new receiver which should arrive tomorrow--hopefully it will be the H20-100.

I spent two grand on the Denon 4306 for its HDMI switching capabilities (3 in 1 out). I have my Denon 2910 going into one, the HDMI into another and soon will soon have the Toshiba HD DVD player utilizing the third.

As far as picture quality goes, on my 103" screen HDMI is the hands-down winner: brighter, sharper, artifact-free (when the video is good!). To go straight to my ceiling-mounted projector from the H20 is not practical.

BTW, in case this is coming across as a whine fest, I am IN LOVE with HDTV!!! I've shot nature video for a living and I would subscribe to D* for Discovery HD Theater alone! God I want to shoot in HD!!

Thanks again and keep your fingers crossed for me. I want my HDTV!!!

Arthur; Save your money. As you know there are some fine HD cameras (for consumers) on the market and not all that expensive considering the quality of the image recorded and shown on an HD display.

Techo: I am sure you have a very good system and I am happy for you. I would love to hear your system and wish that you could listen to my system. Enjoy!
Should I bring a bottle of wine Richard? :)

Hey, how about if I call you on the phone and you can listen to mine and then I will listen to yours??? Now that's a hoot! :D

I really do figure that your music system sounds better... Which is okay. If we had unlimited money we could have a pissing contest? :)

Enjoyment! That's what it's all about...

The prosumer cameras are nice (I shoot with the SD Sony DVCAM PD170 and Panasonic AGVX100A), including the new "HD" format HDV. But HDV is not what you see on Discovery HD Theater. Sony has a new camera (XDCAM HD, I think ) for "only" $25,000 with lens. It captures (on a $30 re-recordable optical disc, no tape!) at 45 Mbs, which is less than Sony's HDCAM (72Mbs and $100,000 for the camera body only). The new Sony is more than half way to HDCAM quality.

I love shooting nature and to be able to bring it home true HD quality...the mind boggles...

Here's the link to the Sony camera:

http://bssc.sel.sony.com/BroadcastandBusiness/markets/10014/xdcamhd_cameras.shtml

Arthur: Seems you are really into this. I have been into photography all my life but, mostly, still shots. I am using a Nikon D70s now. The printed results on a Epson printer are truly amazing. I have compared digital prints 8.5 x 11 with Rollei film prints. The results are both very pleasing with the Rollie film prints being more natural and the digital prints being more vivid. Actually, the $125 Epson printer results are very close to the $10,000 printer at Costcos. I have watched 'Sunrise Earth' since beginning..excellent!

Arthur: Keep us posted on that new h-20-100. And, as you have read here, it is so important for these receivers to run as cool as possible. Be sure you have free air flow on the 4 sides amd on top and bottom. Raise the unit about 1 inch, at least, to give air blow underneath. I believe Directv is now understanding how important keeping a unit running cool is. Seems it has been an expensive lesson for them. I hope the next receiver, after the h20-100, will run even cooler.

My wife and I have a series of DVDs on the mountains of western North Carolina--unnarrated with soft acoustic piano for background, mixed with nature sounds Very meditative. We've done another on St. Augustine Florida with classical guitar and another on Tobago with old time calypso. Also shot in Yosemite.

Did you catch the series "Equator?" That's my overall favorite so far. We've only had HDTV for about six weeks!

That N70 sounds interesting. We're looking to upgrade our little digital still. We're currently producing a weekly TV show on local cable here in the mountains (summer resort area).

Arthur: Check out the Nikon D50..not too much money but excellent Yes, did view 'Equator'.
Also, very good, are travel shows on PBS (and other HD outlets). I have had HD for a number of years now. I believe HBO was first but could be wrong on that.

Sorry (a little) for getting off subject of the h-20 Directv receiver.

I called D* yesterday and ask for a H20-100. OTA on my 600 would have those 1 second drop outs that was driving me crazy. The lady said sure, I'll send you one today, it should be there in three days. She said she will make a note that I wanted a 100 only. Well it came today around 11 am, thats less than 24 hrs, can you believe that. FWIW my rebate took 6 weeks. My 600 never ran hot. If it were not for the drop outs I would have kept it. The pq was a lot better than my two Sonys and two H10s. So far no drop outs on the 100 ota. The box they sent me was new[Feb] with remote and cables.
Now you can take this with a grain of salt, I asked her what was the next HD ch: we will be getting and she said with out hesitating NG, but with no eta. Time will tell..........

trich: NG is a natural for HD. It could well be the next HD channel on Directv. It is difficult to believe the h-20-600 did not run very warm for you. If so, you are the first to experience this. Anyway, the h-20-100 (by its' nature of construction) will run cooler than the model 600. I have had perfect reception (audio/video) for about 3 weeks now. Be sure to place the unit in a well ventilated place and raise it up one inch, at least, for circulation of air underneath. Good luck.

What the frack is NG?

What the frack is NG?
National Geographic channel.

trich: NG is a natural for HD. It could well be the next HD channel on Directv. It is difficult to believe the h-20-600 did not run very warm for you. If so, you are the first to experience this. Anyway, the h-20-100 (by its' nature of construction) will run cooler than the model 600. I have had perfect reception (audio/video) for about 3 weeks now. Be sure to place the unit in a well ventilated place and raise it up one inch, at least, for circulation of air underneath. Good luck.


No the H20-600 never was hot at all. I have a plasma on the wall and right under it is a cabinet with a dvd player and a stb on top. Air all around it. The 100 does have a lot more air holes than the 600. As far as NG, we can only hope soon.