By the way, how do you check for the firmware version on your DVR?

Guide
Guide
House
setup
cable box setup
configuration - select to display

F/W:

or

power off the STB and press sellect / ok within 2 sec.

skip down to code modules and press ok / select

look at platform version#

By the way, how do you check for the firmware version on your DVR?
If you're using the TV Guide software, press Menu twice, then select Setup, then Cable Box Setup. Select the last option (forget what it's called) and you'll see a screen containing, among other things, the firmware and software versions.

You cannot upgrade the firmware, nor do you have any control over when the cable company will upgrade it. In my case, I finally got 16.20 in January (some four months after the version first appeared). I had 12.31 previously.

Like Ceasar, I was stuck with 12.35 f/w and a brand new shiney HDMI receiver. Low and behold I just walked in today and saw that the Comcast software changed a bit, checked the f/w and finally got upgraded to 16.35.

I just tested it with the receiver and it works fine now.

I truly hate Comcast for making me wait this long.

The headend will always have the latest firmware that is fully compatible for the equipment and software that it uses. If you are at 12.31, then that is currently the best it can use.

Not every area will be able to use or install the latest firmware. It's just not that simple.

Your HDMI switcher is not compliant with the STB HDMI drivers. It must be a direct connection to your TV.

Use Componant cables and have your TV Component cable imput calibrated.

the only 2 differences between the 2 connections are Component is Analog Compressed signal, and HDMI is Digital Un Compressed. With proper TV input Calibration it is very hard to tell the difference.


YMMV,

good luck!

I get interference on my component cables (horizontal scrolling bars -- faint) -- I don't get that on HDMI.

Just another reason that I want my HDMI switching and I want it NOW!

Damn comcast.

I get interference on my component cables (horizontal scrolling bars -- faint) -- I don't get that on HDMI.

Just another reason that I want my HDMI switching and I want it NOW!

Damn comcast.


Well it's probably not Comcast's fault you have scrolling bars on component connection. :eek: Sounds like problem with input on tv or possibly bad DVR to me. Wouldn't it be great if all new technology worked correctly all the time, well we can dream can't we?

There are those monoprice 5 port HDMI switchers available for around $100 if you're desperate. I'm using one without any significant problems.

So, I decided to get a new hdmi/dvi cable and hooked it up and still no signal. When I power off and hit menu I get the menu, very fuzzy, for about 3 seconds then black screen. This has probably been covered a lot and I'll apologize for not searching. Is the Hdmi output busted?

Thanks in advance.

Solved it. Thanks anyway.

I get interference on my component cables (horizontal scrolling bars -- faint)

Typical description of a ground loop problem.

Typical description of a ground loop problem.

Exactly. Which is why it sucks even more that comcast hasnt' got the right firmware to allow me to go totally HDMI.

No ground loop issues with HDMI. And HDMI switching is more convenient anyway.

Ground loop issues are tough to resolve.

Exactly. Which is why it sucks even more that comcast hasnt' got the right firmware to allow me to go totally HDMI.

No ground loop issues with HDMI. And HDMI switching is more convenient anyway.

Ground loop issues are tough to resolve.

What is a ground loop issue and how do you try to fix it?

Thanks

What is a ground loop issue and how do you try to fix it?

Thanks
Go to Google and enter

"ground loop"

(including the quotes) as the search phrase.
:)

What is a ground loop issue and how do you try to fix it?

ThanksTwo different ground points at two different potentials. Any difference of potential will develop a voltage between them. For example a TV may be grounded at the AC receptical but have another (different) ground from an antenna cable. Comcast should have run a ground wire from their junction box to the static ground of your house, i.e. the point at which your electrical panel is grounded. That way your cable ground and the AC ground are at the same electrical potential.

I have the Motorola DCT3416 I thru cox

i had heard about the 30 second skip code and thru google found the following:

1) Press the “Cable” button at the top of the remote to put it into Cable Box control mode.
2) Press and hold the “Setup” button until the “Cable” button blinks twice.
3) Type in the code 994. The “Cable” button will blink twice
4) Press (do not hold) the “Setup” button
5) Type in the code 00173 (for 30 second Skip)
6) Press whatever button you want to map the skip

UNFORTUNATELY that not only DIDNT WORK but it also DISABLED the key i tried to map it to...basically i tried to map it to one of the PiP keys that is of no use and it didnt work..so then i tried to map it to the "A" key and it didnt work...then when i was trying to change a setting on a recorded series the "A" button now doesnt work at all

1. Is there a way to return the remote to its original settings?
2. If so how?
3. Is there a way to just reverse the setting that I did?
4. What is the correct way to program the 30 second skip

hopefully someone will be able to help me out...
tia

I have the Motorola DCT3416 I thru cox

i had heard about the 30 second skip code and thru google found the following:


UNFORTUNATELY that not only DIDNT WORK but it also DISABLED the key i tried to map it to...basically i tried to map it to one of the PiP keys that is of no use and it didnt work..so then i tried to map it to the "A" key and it didnt work...then when i was trying to change a setting on a recorded series the "A" button now doesnt work at all

1. Is there a way to return the remote to its original settings?
2. If so how?
3. Is there a way to just reverse the setting that I did?
4. What is the correct way to program the 30 second skip

hopefully someone will be able to help me out...
tia
Tu undo a keymove:

1. Hold Setup until the device button blinks twice.
2. Enter the code 994.
3. Press the key you want to restore twice. In your case, you'll want to press the A key twice.

To restore ALL keymoves you made for a given device:

1. Hold Setup until the device key blinks twice.
2. Enter the code 994.
3. Press the device key (e.g. Cable) twice.

hopefully someone will be able to help me out...
You're following the correct steps. Does the cable button blink twice after step 6? Perhaps Cox has disabled the feature, although this is the first time I hear about it.

For help with the remote, and eveyrthing else related to these boxes, see the Wiki (http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/How_to_use_a_Motorola_DVR/Programming_the_Remote).

You're following the correct steps. Does the cable button blink twice after step 6? Perhaps Cox has disabled the feature, although this is the first time I hear about it.

For help with the remote, and eveyrthing else related to these boxes, see the Wiki (http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/How_to_use_a_Motorola_DVR/Programming_the_Remote).
yes it blinked twice

and thanks to the above poster too, i will try that fix when i get home

Just a note that I have started filling in some information for the i-Guide section of the Wikibook.
http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/How_to_use_a_Motorola_DVR/Using_i-Guide

yes it blinked twice
You may also want to try entering the code as 173 (without the leading zeros).

You may also want to try entering the code as 173 (without the leading zeros).
leaving the leading zeros off didnt work...but on a positive note i was able to restore the buttons that were disabled

I use 1080i on both my 65" 1080p DLP and 50" 768p plasma. I've tried passing 720p on the plasma with 720p and 1080i sources but couldn't see any noticeable difference. I haven't even tested using 720p on the DLP.
so would everybody generally recommend setting the box to 1080i even if the tv is 720p native?

so would everybody generally recommend setting the box to 1080i even if the tv is 720p native?
Not necessarily. I suggest trying both settings to see which one works best for you. Be sure to check a variety of channels (some channels broadcast in 1080i and others 720p) and compare the results. If you don't see any difference, and you don't encounter any stutter issues, then I'd suggest you go with your TV's native resolution.

Has anyone had the problem of the DVR recorded programs playing without audio?

I find this happens about 1 in 6 playback occurences. I have to go back to the DVR list,
and press play again for it to restart with the audio?

Also, is there a way in the DVR to jump to the end of the program,
or at least FF in large chunks?

thanks

Also, is there a way in the DVR to jump to the end of the program,
or at least FF in large chunks?

I don't know of any way to jump to the end of the program. And the only way I know to FF in large chunks is to program a key on the remote to skip multiples of the 30-second skip. But with the current software being so unresponsive to button presses, I'm not sure how well that would work. It may even hang the box.

Yeah, I have that. All I need to do is pause and play to get the audio working though. For what it's worth: I never turn the box off.

Has anyone had the problem of the DVR recorded programs playing without audio?

I find this happens about 1 in 6 playback occurences. I have to go back to the DVR list,
and press play again for it to restart with the audio?

*Warning, Rant Ahead!*

I'm sooo sick of my 3416 unit reseting itself.
I'll be watching something go to turn to something else and it will lock up, freeze and then eventually reset itself and now all my program info is gone.
Takes about 1/2 hour and it gets it back but still, this suX!
Happens about every 3-4 days or so.
Sounds like the same thing happening here-
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9355354&highlight=freeze#post9355354

Good thing this unit is included in my comcast bill, I sure as hell would have returned this thing for a refunded long ago if not.
Alas, I am stuck with it :(

Hope this firmware upgrade coming with TiVo helps.

The instructions for the Motorola DCT 3412 DVR states I can transfer the recordings to a VCR, the question I have is:

Can I download them to my PC? So I can burn then to DVD and watch then when I’m on the road.

If so, how do I do this and what software would I need for my PC if any??

Thanks for your help..

If you are referring to a windows PC look into CapDVHS. Also there is a whole thread on it here in the forum. If you are running linux look into mythtv.

[QUOTE=DAD_23] *Warning, Rant Ahead!*

I'm sooo sick of my 3416 unit reseting itself.
I'll be watching something go to turn to something else and it will lock up, freeze and then eventually reset itself and now all my program info is gone.
Takes about 1/2 hour and it gets it back but still, this suX!
Happens about every 3-4 days or so.
Sounds like the same thing happening here-
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9355354&highlight=freeze#post9355354 [QUOTE]

I had that problem with the MS Guide and 12.35 firmware. Reverting back to 12.31 firmware took care of that. Not sure what guide software your box uses, but if you live in WA, call Comcast and have them revert the firmware back to 12.31.

The instructions for the Motorola DCT 3412 DVR states I can transfer the recordings to a VCR, the question I have is:

Can I download them to my PC? So I can burn then to DVD and watch then when I’m on the road.

If so, how do I do this and what software would I need for my PC if any??

Thanks for your help..

Check out the firewire references in the wiki:
http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/How_to_use_a_Motorola_DVR/Firewire

The instructions for the Motorola DCT 3412 DVR states I can transfer the recordings to a VCR, the question I have is:

Can I download them to my PC? So I can burn then to DVD and watch then when I’m on the road.

If so, how do I do this and what software would I need for my PC if any??

Thanks for your help..

The option of using the firewire connection will give you the best quality picture & sound for transfer but unless I'm mistaken it will only work on unencrypted channels (ie. local channels). The firewire connection can also be a pain the a$$ to get setup correctly. You should also be able to use the composite or s-video connection from the DVR to a video capture card in the computer & use one of many video capture programs.
This way will obviously not give you as good of quality (but if you're on the road you may just be using a laptop or portable DVD player so screen size won't be that big so high quality shouldn't really be a big problem), but should also be much easier to setup. If you don't already have a built in video capture card you can buy USB or firewire cards pretty cheap.

The option of using the firewire connection will give you the best quality picture & sound for transfer but unless I'm mistaken it will only work on unencrypted channels (ie. local channels). The firewire connection can also be a pain the a$$ to get setup correctly. You should also be able to use the composite or s-video connection from the DVR to a video capture card in the computer & use one of many video capture programs.
This way will obviously not give you as good of quality (but if you're on the road you may just be using a laptop or portable DVD player so screen size won't be that big so high quality shouldn't really be a big problem), but should also be much easier to setup. If you don't already have a built in video capture card you can buy USB or firewire cards pretty cheap.

Which channels you can capture via PC with firewire depend on the CCI setting of the channel (it can even be implemented on a per program basis), not whether the cable company encrypts the channel over the line or not. The cable box decrypts all of the stations (so the previous encryption doesn't matter) and uses the 5C CCI setting to determine if, how many times, and to which devices it will allow a program to be captured via the firewire output. How many channels are allowed vary widely by region and cable provider. I'm lucky in that my region I get about 98% of all my non music/ppv stations - including premium stations and all of my HD stations. However, it probably is a good idea to check the stations/programs you are interested in to see what there 5C or CCI setting is. If either is 0, then you are good to go. To check turn off the box, and immediately hit the ok/setup button. I believe d6 tells you the CCI setting (which is really all you need to know) and I think d11 tells you the 5C setting. Hit power to exit the service menu. Make sure to tune to the station you want to check first...

The option of using the firewire connection will give you the best quality picture & sound for transfer but unless I'm mistaken it will only work on unencrypted channels (ie. local channels). ...

Encryption is what may keep you from accessing a channel at all (unless it's part of your package), but it's the 5C flag setting that may prevent recording it via firewire, regardless of encryption.

Has anyone had the problem of the DVR recorded programs playing without audio?


I haven't had it play without audio entirely, but I have had it play with only the left and right channels (i.e. not the center or the rear surrounds). This happens fairly frequently (and sometimes you don't notice it until it's absolutely clear that there was supposed to be dialog and it's missing). I use the "skip back" button and it usually resolves itself.

I find, on my 1366X768 TV (Westinghouse LTV-32w6), that SD channels look best with the box set to 720p, 720p channels look best with the box set to 720p, and 1080i channels look best with the box set to 1080i. I think 720p channels look soft with the box set to 1080i, and vice versa. But this might have a lot to do with my particular TV.

So, I keep switching the setting based on what I'm watching. Unless I'm recording something and can't turn off the box to change the setting. It's bad enough that they won't enable native pass through. But to also require you to turn off the box (and end ongoing recordings) to change the setting is just double annoying.

Playing back recorded programs on my 3412, I'm losing the sound and sometimes the picture. Hitting pause, then play, fixes it for a few seconds, then the sound is gone again. Hitting stop, then resume, does the same thing. Pulled the plug, rebooted, no change. Any suggestions before I go through another exchange?

Sorry I should've been clearer as back in a my previous posts in mid Nov. 06 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8897619#post8897619 or post entry #'s 2345, 2352 & 2354 in this thread on this topic of copyright flags. (If you start at that link & read the next 10 entries following.) :rolleyes:

I've had my current 3412 for a few months now and recently (the past couple of weeks) sometimes when I would set something to record for the next day the box would freeze up and a message would pop up saying "Exceeded Maximum Number of Scheduled Items" . I then have to unplug the box because it is still frozen and then I can't go back and set the program to record because the guide info was lost.
Does anyone know if there is a maximum number of schedule recordings you can make? I'm also only using about 30-40 percent of my drive space.

Doesn't make any sense to me.


Has anyone else had this problem, and if so was it able to be fixed?

After talking with comcast they kept on insisting that it was because the amount of disc space that would be used by the future recordings would be more than the available space on my drive. I know that isn't the case because most of the time this happens it is only one program that I'm scheduling to record the next day. Even when I pointed out that there own FAQ states that you can schedule as many programs to record as you like, and that the programs saved on my dvr have "delete when space is needed" priority they still didn't believe me.

Any help?

Playing back recorded programs on my 3412, I'm losing the sound and sometimes the picture. Hitting pause, then play, fixes it for a few seconds, then the sound is gone again. Hitting stop, then resume, does the same thing. Pulled the plug, rebooted, no change. Any suggestions before I go through another exchange?

I had this issue with a recording of Heroes, but I assume it was because of the storm we had that night. Oddly enough, the recording of 24 (different channel, same night) was perfectly fine.

I've also had this problem once or twice and cycling the receiver fixed it. Not sure what that's about, but I still think it's the 3412 causing the problem since it only happens with the 3412, and nothing else that's hooked up to the receiver.

Is it all recorded programs, but not live TV?

Playing back recorded programs on my 3412, I'm losing the sound and sometimes the picture. Hitting pause, then play, fixes it for a few seconds, then the sound is gone again. Hitting stop, then resume, does the same thing. Pulled the plug, rebooted, no change. Any suggestions before I go through another exchange?
I once had a recording keep muting while I was playing. When I checked the live programs, they were glitching and pixelating. It disappeared after a few minutes, and I did see a Comcast truck nearby.

If a recording or even live keeps losing audio, try checking both live tuners to see if there are any signal problems.

I'm reposting this here in hopes that someone may have an idea... my new DVR is a DCT3416, TV=Maxent 50x3

HDMI goes bad?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I had a Comcast DVR hooked up to this set for over a year with a DVI to HDMI cable and everything worked fine.....

I just had to get a new DVR and this model no longer has a DVI output, but has an HDMI output instead. When I hook up the HDMI output to this set I am able to get a picture when I power up the DVR with the TV on. However if I then turn off the TV without powering off the DVR and turn the TV back on, all I get is static....

Does anyone have any explaination for this loss of HDMI signal when the TV is powered off? Does this mean that my HDMI input is screwed up? I've got an extended warrantee, so if this is not typical (which it doesn't seem to be), then I might think about getting it replaced...thanks in advance folks

-M

I'm reposting this here in hopes that someone may have an idea... my new DVR is a DCT3416, TV=Maxent 50x3

HDMI goes bad?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I had a Comcast DVR hooked up to this set for over a year with a DVI to HDMI cable and everything worked fine.....

I just had to get a new DVR and this model no longer has a DVI output, but has an HDMI output instead. When I hook up the HDMI output to this set I am able to get a picture when I power up the DVR with the TV on. However if I then turn off the TV without powering off the DVR and turn the TV back on, all I get is static....

Does anyone have any explaination for this loss of HDMI signal when the TV is powered off? Does this mean that my HDMI input is screwed up? I've got an extended warrantee, so if this is not typical (which it doesn't seem to be), then I might think about getting it replaced...thanks in advance folks

-M

Probably STB. Check out the wiki article:
http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/How_to_use_a_Motorola_DVR/Bugs#The_DVI_or_HDMI_output_works_intermittently_or_not_at_a ll

I'm reposting this here in hopes that someone may have an idea... my new DVR is a DCT3416, TV=Maxent 50x3

HDMI goes bad?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I had a Comcast DVR hooked up to this set for over a year with a DVI to HDMI cable and everything worked fine.....

I just had to get a new DVR and this model no longer has a DVI output, but has an HDMI output instead. When I hook up the HDMI output to this set I am able to get a picture when I power up the DVR with the TV on. However if I then turn off the TV without powering off the DVR and turn the TV back on, all I get is static....

Does anyone have any explaination for this loss of HDMI signal when the TV is powered off? Does this mean that my HDMI input is screwed up? I've got an extended warrantee, so if this is not typical (which it doesn't seem to be), then I might think about getting it replaced...thanks in advance folks

-M
A number of people have reported this problem. It is apparently an HDCP bug that causes the box to fail to work properly with certain TVs if the TV is turned on while the DVR is on. The problem is with the latest firmware version (16.20) only - it did not appear in earlier versions.

Until a fix is available, you can remedy the problem by:

1) Turn the box off an back on, or
2) Unplug the HDMI cable and plug it back in. This solution is particularly useful if you're currently recording something and can't turn off the DVR.

Any update on if/when the Tivo software is going to be released nationwide?

Nope, no update.

I am beginning to think the Comcast Tivo box will appear after the release of Duke Nukem Forever. :D

Any update on if/when the Tivo software is going to be released nationwide?

I suspect Comcast would have trouble predicting the exact decade in which this will happen. And it may not solve many of the problems discussed here...

I am beginning to think the Comcast Tivo box will appear after the release of Duke Nukem Forever. :D


I heard that's coming out soon...

.... my ability to read the full page of what is being displayed (ex. closing vanity card on Dharma & Greg).

Is there some simple way to eliminate or move the bar graph of recorded usage when in pause mode?

Thanks for any solution. This has to be too easy!

.... my ability to read the full page of what is being displayed (ex. closing vanity card on Dharma & Greg).

Is there some simple way to eliminate or move the bar graph of recorded usage when in pause mode?

Thanks for any solution. This has to be too easy!

It is: simply press the EXIT button.

It is: simply press the EXIT button.
OMG, I love this freaking forum. I get answers to questions I didn't even know I had. Awesome, thanks!
JJ

A number of people have reported this problem. It is apparently an HDCP bug that causes the box to fail to work properly with certain TVs if the TV is turned on while the DVR is on. The problem is with the latest firmware version (16.20) only - it did not appear in earlier versions.

Until a fix is available, you can remedy the problem by:

1) Turn the box off an back on, or
2) Unplug the HDMI cable and plug it back in. This solution is particularly useful if you're currently recording something and can't turn off the DVR.

Today our area was upgraded with firmware 16.35. This is now the latest build. Compile date was 2/02/2007. This supposedly fixes a lot of HDCP issues over HDMI or DVI(6412p1/p2, 6200). Anyone else with this latest build to confirm? I don't have HDMI on my TV, I just use component, but it would be nice to know that it works great for future reference.

Today our area was upgraded with firmware 16.35. This is now the latest build. Compile date was 2/02/2007. This supposedly fixes a lot of HDCP issues over HDMI or DVI(6412p1/p2, 6200). Anyone else with this latest build to confirm? I don't have HDMI on my TV, I just use component, but it would be nice to know that it works great for future reference.
Yeah, I saw the change in the wiki this morning...

I still have version 16.20 (no surprise, given how long it took for that version to arrive in this area). I won't be able to say if it fixes this problem, because it happens very rarely on my TV (I get the problem twice, maybe three times, since the 16.20 update in January).

We also noticed a change in the menus last night and I also found that we had been updated to 16.35. We have a 3416 and a Mitsu 53628 driven by HDMI only for audio and video.

We're in Baltimore county.

Works fine so far...

jim

I've just started using my DCT3400 (Comcast, SF Bay area), but I've read the manuals, read most of this forum post, read the wikibooks and even Google searched. I'm still hopeful that there's some sort of secret configuration option or hack I can use to get a more useful Guide.

I'm looking for a few things:

1) Hide channels in the Guide. Hiding channels I can't receive would be a good start, letting me hide others would be even better. I've created a Favorites List with the channels I typically watch, but it's a pain to navigate through menus to get to it.

2) Speaking of Favorites, why does the FAV button go to a single channel instead of jumping to a list of favorites? I've read through the docs on customizing buttons, but can I safely do a macro on that button to reliably get to my Favorites List?

3) This one's the biggest request. I've got a nice 50" 1080p screen. Why can't this STB fill it with the guide? Go wide and give me more than an hour and a half of guide! How about a smaller font so I can see more than 6 channels? And can I turn off the PIP in the guide so I can read more than 5 words describing the show?

I've had multiple generations of ReplayTV's for the past 9 years, and I swear my first ReplayTV had a nicer UI.

...
I'm looking for a few things:

1) Hide channels in the Guide.
.
.
.
I've had multiple generations of ReplayTV's for the past 9 years, and I swear my first ReplayTV had a nicer UI.

1) Move to Washington state and use the Microsoft guide s/w.

How's that HD recording look on the Replay?

1) Hide channels in the Guide. Hiding channels I can't receive would be a good start, letting me hide others would be even better. I've created a Favorites List with the channels I typically watch, but it's a pain to navigate through menus to get to it.

2) Speaking of Favorites, why does the FAV button go to a single channel instead of jumping to a list of favorites? I've read through the docs on customizing buttons, but can I safely do a macro on that button to reliably get to my Favorites List?

3) This one's the biggest request. I've got a nice 50" 1080p screen. Why can't this STB fill it with the guide? Go wide and give me more than an hour and a half of guide! How about a smaller font so I can see more than 6 channels? And can I turn off the PIP in the guide so I can read more than 5 words describing the show?

I've had multiple generations of ReplayTV's for the past 9 years, and I swear my first ReplayTV had a nicer UI.
For questions 1 and 2, try pressing FAV while in the guide.

For question 3, you have no control over these settings, unfortunately.

I am very pleased with my 337H,but when using the remote to change sources the tv does not detect my 3412 STB when using HDMI cable,does any one else have this problem?
hopefully the new fw will fix this.

OMG, I love this freaking forum. I get answers to questions I didn't even know I had.

Yup, lots of times we just accept stuff as given, doesn't even occur to us that we might be able to change it...

A 3 minute skip is a macro that runs the 30 second skip 6 times. I'm pretty certain wikipedia describes setting up a macro - I haven't done it in over a year and I don't have the info handy.

Create a macro using your new 30 second skip:

[To begin, press the "Cable" button at the top of the remote]
1. Press and hold down the "Setup" button until the light blinks twice.
2. Press 9-9-5.
3. Press the key you want to assign the 3-minute skip.
4. Press whatever button you've used for the 30-second skip six times.
5. Press and hold the "Setup" button until the light blinks twice to exit programming.

OK,

So I'm now on my 5th DVR in a couple of years. The good news is that Comcast gave me a brand new 3416, so I now have 40gig extra storage.

Still the same POS Moto box, though.

But I'm having deja vu with Comcast, as things are not set up right, and need advice before I take several hours off work to wait for bozo the clown to come out to my house and pretend to know what he or she's doing.

An hour after having them set up the box, I checked the interactive status and the ip address was all zeros, and the state was "unconfig." I called again and they reset the box, but after a couple hours same story (although now I don't get an error with VOD, just a stand by message).

What are the magic words I need for the CSR to avoid having a service call? The last time I had my DVR swapped was a long painful series of events (waiting in line at the service center, having two house calls, being double charged, etc). It involved a blank ip address, and somebody that the guy called while he was at the house did something to fix the problem, but it seems like I should be able to do the same without a house call.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Jim

I have a series recording set for Deal or No Deal. I noticed today that tonight's show is the last one scheduled to record, even though a new episode is airing tomorrow and another one week from tomorrow. Even if I tell the DVR to record all episodes (with duplicates), it still does not schedule these shows as part of the series. It also fails to mark them to record if I delete and re-create the series recording, even if I use one of the later episodes as the starting point of the setup. There are no scheduling conflicts - I am not recording anything else at the times Deal or No Deal airs.

I can schedule each individual show with no problems, so it's not a big deal for me. I'm curious, though, to see if others are having this problem. This is the first time I ever had something not scheduled in a series recording even when it is shown as "New" in the program info (I encountered omissions before, but it was always due to incomplete guide data).

I have a series recording set for Deal or No Deal. I noticed today that tonight's show is the last one scheduled to record, even though a new episode is airing tomorrow and another one week from tomorrow. Even if I tell the DVR to record all episodes (with duplicates), it still does not schedule these shows as part of the series. It also fails to mark them to record if I delete and re-create the series recording, even if I use one of the later episodes as the starting point of the setup. There are no scheduling conflicts - I am not recording anything else at the times Deal or No Deal airs.

I can schedule each individual show with no problems, so it's not a big deal for me. I'm curious, though, to see if others are having this problem. This is the first time I ever had something not scheduled in a series recording even when it is shown as "New" in the program info (I encountered omissions before, but it was always due to incomplete guide data).I just tried setting up DOND on NBC for a series recording on my 3412 and it showed it was going to record tonight, this Monday, as well as 3/19. No problem here.

Create a macro using your new 30 second skip:
[To begin, press the "Cable" button at the top of the remote]
1. Press and hold down the "Setup" button until the light blinks twice.
2. Press 9-9-5.
3. Press the key you want to assign the 3-minute skip.
4. Press whatever button you've used for the 30-second skip six times.
5. Press and hold the "Setup" button until the light blinks twice to exit programming.

I assume this is not available in WA state? Sigh.

I just tried setting up DOND on NBC for a series recording on my 3412 and it showed it was going to record tonight, this Monday, as well as 3/19. No problem here.
As a follow-up, if I set up the series recording on NBC HD, there's no problem. The problem only seems to occur on NBC SD. (Deal or No Deal is not available in HD, at least not in my area, so I see no point in making an HD recording of it.)

I guess there's probably a screw-up in the guide data behind the scenes that's making I-Guide think it's not part of the series.

Has anyone had the problem of the DVR recorded programs playing without audio?

I find this happens about 1 in 6 playback occurences. I have to go back to the DVR list,
and press play again for it to restart with the audio?

Also, is there a way in the DVR to jump to the end of the program,
or at least FF in large chunks?

thanks


I occasionally notice audio drops in the middle of playback, usually preceeded by some sort of a signal problem that makes the sound disappear. If I go back a bit, then the sound comes back on. But it sucks for unattended recordings since you dont get sound...

Has anyone else had this problem, and if so was it able to be fixed?

After talking with comcast they kept on insisting that it was because the amount of disc space that would be used by the future recordings would be more than the available space on my drive. I know that isn't the case because most of the time this happens it is only one program that I'm scheduling to record the next day. Even when I pointed out that there own FAQ states that you can schedule as many programs to record as you like, and that the programs saved on my dvr have "delete when space is needed" priority they still didn't believe me.

Any help?

I had exactly the same problem around last November (posted about it in the forum as well), and I got exactly the same nonsense-bs from most of the Comcast reps as you did. They had a hard time understanding the problem (reading their own user manuals!), let alone providing a solution or at least an explanation.... From what I recall it disappeared on its own (probably they fixed the firmware/software?)

I occasionally notice audio drops in the middle of playback, usually preceeded by some sort of a signal problem that makes the sound disappear. If I go back a bit, then the sound comes back on. But it sucks for unattended recordings since you dont get sound...

I sometimes get no center or rear channel audio when I start playing a recording, but the data is there. Hitting the "15 seconds back" button restores it fine.

My daughter blames me. I need help. Last night, for the third time, my 3416 dumped her recording schedule. Is there some way to stop this? Or recover, ala XP "Restore?"

CBS HD on my system is noticeably louder than other stations. Is this normal? Is there any way to correct so channel sound level is even?

CBS HD on my system is noticeably louder than other stations. Is this normal? Is there any way to correct so channel sound level is even?
That's not unusual. In my area, pretty much every HD channel comes in louder than SD channels, with digital music channels coming in even louder. There isn't really anything you can do about it, unless your TV or audio receiver has some kind of volume normalization option.

1) Hide channels in the Guide. Hiding channels I can't receive would be a good start, letting me hide others would be even better. I've created a Favorites List with the channels I typically watch, but it's a pain to navigate through menus to get to it.



Yes, it appears that the simple ability to skip unused/unwanted channels while surfing is missing with this box, Favorites function notwithstanding. It's unbelievable that they would market a box without this basic function.

Yes, it appears that the simple ability to skip unused/unwanted channels while surfing is missing with this box, Favorites function notwithstanding. It's unbelievable that they would market a box without this basic function.

It isn't the box, since this capability is available with the Microsoft guide s/w in Washington State. The skipped channels also will not appear in the guide listings, but any channel may be tuned to by number, at which point its listings will temporarily appear in the guide.

My daughter blames me. I need help. Last night, for the third time, my 3416 dumped her recording schedule. Is there some way to stop this? Or recover, ala XP "Restore?"
Once it's gone, it's gone. The box probably rebooted, discovered some corruption, and did a DVR reset (wipes out all recordings, scheduled recordings, and series lists.)

It's possible your DVR has a bad hard drive, or something else causing corruption.

Hi everyone.

I would like to program my Samsung LSN 3251D remote control to operate my Comcast, Motorola DCT 3416, DVR STB.
The manual says to use code 064.
it doesnt work.
I have tried 000-074 without success.
Anyone know the correct code?

Hi everyone.

I would like to program my Samsung LSN 3251D remote control to operate my Comcast, Motorola DCT 3416, DVR STB.
The manual says to use code 064.
it doesnt work.
I have tried 000-074 without success.
Anyone know the correct code?

Have you by any chance tried the codes for the 'Jerrold' cable box, those are the codes that normally work these boxes (Motorola bought Jerrold a few years back). The Motorola codes usually don't work, go figure.

Hi everyone.

I would like to program my Samsung LSN 3251D remote control to operate my Comcast, Motorola DCT 3416, DVR STB.
The manual says to use code 064.
it doesnt work.
I have tried 000-074 without success.
Anyone know the correct code?
Try using codes for Jerrold, as the previous poster suggested. Also try General Instruments (GI) - the manual for one of my remotes had the code under GI.

Heh I remember those old "Jerrold" boxes. People used to buy "cubes" for them to send an authorization hit to them and turn on the descrambler for all channels. (Must of been a really simple authorization command). But anyway it went from Jerrold > General Instrument > Motorola.

A little history for ya:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jerrold_Electronics

It isn't the box, since this capability is available with the Microsoft guide s/w in Washington State. The skipped channels also will not appear in the guide listings, but any channel may be tuned to by number, at which point its listings will temporarily appear in the guide.


Thanks, I did mean to include the possibility that it's how my local cableco has the box configured vs. the hardware itself but was running out of time. Or perhaps its the difference between the MS software and what everyone else has.

Does anyone outside of WA state have the ability to program skipped channels with a 34XX box? My cable provider is Armstrong in Western PA.

Does anyone outside of WA state have the ability to program skipped channels with a 34XX box? My cable provider is Armstrong in Western PA.

All I know is that the major guide s/w (iGuide) doesn't. They do have the ability to use the 30-second skip, which we don't have in WA. Personally, I prefer being able to prune the channels.

Good evening,
Quick question about an issue I am having. Have recently switched for a directv series 1 tivo and am now using the comcast 3416 dvr..it was what was given to me when the original 3412 unit was a dud. Anyway, I am noticing that when I fast forward close to the end of a recording (for instance if there is a commercial break and it returns with 5 minutes left) the delete program now screen comes on and won't let me watch the last few minutes of the recording. Is there any way around this or is there a trick I should know about?

Thanks

Tom

Anyway, I am noticing that when I fast forward close to the end of a recording (for instance if there is a commercial break and it returns with 5 minutes left) the delete program now screen comes on and won't let me watch the last few minutes of the recording. Is there any way around this or is there a trick I should know about?Perhaps you've FFed further than you thought. Anyway, if the delete dialog comes up, simply rewind or skip back without responding to it.

Thanks for the reply..it won;t allow me to ignore the message and just rewind..nothing happens until I either select delete or not. As far as fast forwarding further than I thought..it just seems that if I am at 27 minutes of a 30 minute program and I hit play at 27 minutes it will skip to the very end of the recording. Its getting sort of frustrating..could this be the machine or...me? :)

Thanks again

Tom

I haven't tried this recently, but rewinding always dismissed the dialog and rewound for me. Perhaps the behavior has changed in recent firmware, or your unit is indeed defective.

Edit: I just tried it and it works as I described. Both RW and 15-sec skip back work. Make sure you're not using left arrow, as that doesn't work. My f/w version is 16.20.

Using firmware 16.20. How often is firmware updated and is it done automatically?

Using firmware 16.20. How often is firmware updated and is it done automatically?See my edit above. Firmware updates occur at unpredictable intervals and yes, it happens automatically.

I haven't tried this recently, but rewinding always dismissed the dialog and rewound for me. Perhaps the behavior has changed in recent firmware, or your unit is indeed defective.

Edit: I just tried it and it works as I described. Both RW and 15-sec skip back work. Make sure you're not using left arrow, as that doesn't work. My f/w version is 16.20.

Thanks for the replies. I apologize..but which button is the 15 second skip back and which is the left arrow?

Tom

Edit..Just found the 15 second back button and that seems to be doing the trick..thanks very much.

OK, I need help to wife proof my 3416 DVR. My wife has a problem turning the TV on and off. I trained her to slect the "cable" botton after she turns the TV on, so that all the keys will run the DVR. But she forgets to hit the "TV" botton on the remote before she hits the "Power Off" botton. So she ends up turning off the DVR, but thinks the TV went off because the screen is now black.

How can I program the remote so that the power botton will always turn the TV on and off, but the keys will always be "cable", to run the DVR.

Thanks

Surf40

Thanks for the replies. I apologize..but which button is the 15 second skip back and which is the left arrow?

Tom

Edit..Just found the 15 second back button and that seems to be doing the trick..thanks very much.Left directional arrow. Some people, including me, use that instead of rewind, because it's more convenient (along with right arrow for FF, up arrow for pause/play and down arrow for Live, among others).

Glad you found skip-back :)

When that happens to me I just press the exit button and it will stay where you stopped it.

Yes, it appears that the simple ability to skip unused/unwanted channels while surfing is missing with this box, Favorites function notwithstanding. It's unbelievable that they would market a box without this basic function.

You can add this to a long list of basic functions not performed by this box. Sigh.

All I know is that the major guide s/w (iGuide) doesn't. They do have the ability to use the 30-second skip, which we don't have in WA. Personally, I prefer being able to prune the channels.

I'd give anything for the 30 sec skip, particularly with the lag in response time from the remote when using FF.

Thanks for the reply..it won;t allow me to ignore the message and just rewind..nothing happens until I either select delete or not. As far as fast forwarding further than I thought..it just seems that if I am at 27 minutes of a 30 minute program and I hit play at 27 minutes it will skip to the very end of the recording. Its getting sort of frustrating..could this be the machine or...me?

I've been noticing this lately - hit FF, then play, and it ends up ahead of where I hit play. Looks like they've overcompensated for the previous idiocy of backing up several minutes when you hit play.

See my edit above. Firmware updates occur at unpredictable intervals and yes, it happens automatically.

Used to have Dish Network, where you could program the box to ask before downloading updates. Of course, that would be way too much to ask of Comcast's boxes...

When that happens to me I just press the exit button and it will stay where you stopped it.

Or hit REW, then hit play, that sometimes works.

OK, I need help to wife proof my 3416 DVR. My wife has a problem turning the TV on and off. I trained her to slect the "cable" botton after she turns the TV on, so that all the keys will run the DVR. But she forgets to hit the "TV" botton on the remote before she hits the "Power Off" botton. So she ends up turning off the DVR, but thinks the TV went off because the screen is now black.

How can I program the remote so that the power botton will always turn the TV on and off, but the keys will always be "cable", to run the DVR.

Thanks

Surf40
You could program an unused button on your remote with a macro and use that button to turn it on and off.

Here is the procedure I used (I leave my DVR on all the time):

1. press and hold the SETUP button until the red
light blinks twice, then release SETUP.

2. Enter 995

3. Press the button you want to program

4. Press the TV, POWER and CABLE buttons in sequence

5. press and hold the SETUP button until the red
light blinks twice, then release SETUP

I can't get remote to do that. Is there anyone out there that has Charter Cable 3416s in the St Louis area that can get the 30 second skip to work?

OK, I need help to wife proof my 3416 DVR. My wife has a problem turning the TV on and off. I trained her to slect the "cable" botton after she turns the TV on, so that all the keys will run the DVR. But she forgets to hit the "TV" botton on the remote before she hits the "Power Off" botton. So she ends up turning off the DVR, but thinks the TV went off because the screen is now black.

How can I program the remote so that the power botton will always turn the TV on and off, but the keys will always be "cable", to run the DVR.

Thanks

Surf40
On a JP1-capable remote (such as the Comcast silver remote), there is a feature called "keymove" that lets you reprogram individual buttons. In your case, you would do the following:
1. Hold SETUP until you see two blinks.
2. Enter the code 994 (Keymove).
3. Press TV, then POWER.
4. Press CABLE, then POWER (two blinks).

The problem with this technique is that you lose the ability to send the Power command to the cable box (which is necessary if you wish to access the user setup or diagnostics menu). Therefore, I highly recommend that you NOT do this, unless you also reassign the cable POWER button to another, unused button first.

If you do not have a JP1-style remote, you probably won't be able to do this. You may consider buying a new universal remote (such as a Harmony) which gives you more programming control.

Carter Cable has two remotes for the 3416 that I know of. My friend has a silver one and I have a black one called UR5U-MDVR. It has two buttons for changing days in the guide (- and +). The silver remote does not have these buttons. My remote also has three buttons called A (yellow) B (blue) and C (red) that don't do anything. I could use one of those buttons instead of the power button. Right, for the 30 second skip? Is it a different procedure?

Carter Cable has two remotes for the 3416 that I know of. My friend has a silver one and I have a black one called UR5U-MDVR. It has two buttons for changing days in the guide (- and +). The silver remote does not have these buttons. My remote also has three buttons called A (yellow) B (blue) and C (red) that don't do anything. I could use one of those buttons instead of the power button. Right, for the 30 second skip? Is it a different procedure?
I don't know anything about that remote, but a Google search turned up this:

http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/files/rcfiles.cgi?area=other&db=other&br=programs&dv=universalremotecontrolinc

The above contains what's described as PC software for use with the UR5U-MDVR (and other models). I have no idea what that software does or doesn't do, so I can't say if this link will help you in any way. I just posted it here because I ran across it and thought it might be worth looking into - don't ask me anything about it, because I didn't investigate any further.

Thanks for the info dvdmth. I will check it out

Hi everyone.

I would like to program my Samsung LSN 3251D remote control to operate my Comcast, Motorola DCT 3416, DVR STB.
The manual says to use code 064.
it doesnt work.
I have tried 000-074 without success.
Anyone know the correct code?

I also have the same problem. Have Samsung 3251D remote, Verizon, Motorola QIP6416-2 DVR/STB. Neither the Jerrold nor the GI codes work. Any other ideas?

Thanks

One more question.
I have the DCT-3416 Comcasr DVR.
I checked my SW and it is 71.44-1203 and my FW is 12.31.
I see where the latest SW is 74.53-3321 and the FW is 16.35. How can I get my settings updated to the latest version?

I also turn the power off on both the DCT-3416 and TV when I am not using them.
Should I be leaving the DCT-3416 on all the time?

One more question.
I have the DCT-3416 Comcasr DVR.
I checked my SW and it is 71.44-1203 and my FW is 12.31.
I see where the latest SW is 74.53-3321 and the FW is 16.35. How can I get my settings updated to the latest version?

I also turn the power off on both the DCT-3416 and TV when I am not using them.
Should I be leaving the DCT-3416 on all the time?

Comcast (and other cable co's) update the firmware & software automatically, you generally can't choose which versions to put on (with a few rare exceptions). They also do not update the whole country at one time, you will almost always see different states/towns with different versions, just hang in there it will change eventually (for better or worse).

Leaving DVR powered on all the time keeps some bugs from appearing on the DVR (generally software/firmware specific bugs). In theory it shouldn't really matter if box is turned off or left on. I have 2 DVR's: I leave the one on in my living room & turn the one in my bedroom off because of slight noise difference.

I checked my SW and it is 71.44-1203 and my FW is 12.31.
I see where the latest SW is 74.53-3321 and the FW is 16.35. How can I get my settings updated to the latest version?

You just hafta wait for Comcast to do it. But you may not want it anyway, since the latest version often introduces more bugs, and you end up having to roll it back to the previous version.

OK, I need help to wife proof my 3416 DVR. My wife has a problem turning the TV on and off. I trained her to slect the "cable" botton after she turns the TV on, so that all the keys will run the DVR. But she forgets to hit the "TV" botton on the remote before she hits the "Power Off" botton. So she ends up turning off the DVR, but thinks the TV went off because the screen is now black.

How can I program the remote so that the power botton will always turn the TV on and off, but the keys will always be "cable", to run the DVR.

Thanks

Surf40

I programmed my remote to leave my DVR on all the time, and the all on button turns on and off the TV. This way all my wife has to do is push 1 button. She leaves it in cable mode for changing channels and I set the volume to always be for the TV. All this is explained online, just search for the programming guide for the 6412 (Its the same for the 3412&3416).

I thought the problem was solved, but now it's back.

Any advice would be much appreciated, as Comcast has put me through the ringer with no clue in sight.

After having Comcast telling me 5 different things, sending several signals, me reloading the firmware and doing a reset, I was still showing an "unconfig" state and blank ip address, so I returned the box.

The new box was able to acquire the ip address, and I was able to get VOD for two days.

Then VOD failed again, although I was showing an ip address and a configured state, but now the ip address is blank again, and no VOD. Comcast put through a 48 hour ticket and I got a message from them claiming it should work now, but no.

Help!

Thanks.

Jim


OK,

So I'm now on my 5th DVR in a couple of years. The good news is that Comcast gave me a brand new 3416, so I now have 40gig extra storage.

Still the same POS Moto box, though.

But I'm having deja vu with Comcast, as things are not set up right, and need advice before I take several hours off work to wait for bozo the clown to come out to my house and pretend to know what he or she's doing.

An hour after having them set up the box, I checked the interactive status and the ip address was all zeros, and the state was "unconfig." I called again and they reset the box, but after a couple hours same story (although now I don't get an error with VOD, just a stand by message).

What are the magic words I need for the CSR to avoid having a service call? The last time I had my DVR swapped was a long painful series of events (waiting in line at the service center, having two house calls, being double charged, etc). It involved a blank ip address, and somebody that the guy called while he was at the house did something to fix the problem, but it seems like I should be able to do the same without a house call.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Jim

If you are losing your address, odds are it has lost two-way communications. What does the Upstream Status page show in the diagnostics?

If you have any RF amplifiers, make certain they are 'cable box' or 'broadband' rated, which means they allow the lower frequencies used for upstream communications to pass backwards. Also, if you have too many splitters, your upstream may be too weak for the head-end to hear.

Upstream status is configured.
Center frequency 0011.552
requested and actual power levels 058db

Not using an RF amplifier. However, I do have more than one splitter. But my inband status is good for both tuners, so wouldn't that be an indication of a problem?

If you are losing your address, odds are it has lost two-way communications. What does the Upstream Status page show in the diagnostics?

If you have any RF amplifiers, make certain they are 'cable box' or 'broadband' rated, which means they allow the lower frequencies used for upstream communications to pass backwards. Also, if you have too many splitters, your upstream may be too weak for the head-end to hear.

Okay, I decided to join the AVS Forum and voice my story:

I originally had the DCT6412 Phase III connected directly to my Pioneer PDP-4214HD via an HDMI cable. For a long time (about a year I guess) it was working 100% fine. When Comcast decided to upgrade the box to firmware version 16.20 I started to get a solid green screen whenever my TV turned on (I keep the box on all the time). Also, when I switch from HDTV to SDTV or go to On Demand it goes solid green again. I can fix this by either a) hitting the front power button off then on while keeping my TV on or, b) unplugging the HDMI cable and then plugging it back in.

I looked at the specifications for my TV and it is HDCP compliant.

I decided to contact Comcast to see if they had a remedy for the situation and they informed me of a newer box, the DCT3416 Phase I. I just (2 hours ago) got the 3416 in exchange for my 6412 hoping this would fix the problem. It didn't.

I hooked it up the same way as before and crossed my fingers. The second I went from a SDTV channel to an HDTV channel I got this message on a blue screen:

"The Set-Top does not support HD Content Protected Repeaters. Please use the YPbPr outputs for your HD connection."

After a few seconds it went to the same solid green screen that the 6412 had. Now I don't even get that blue screen, I just get the green. It basically works exactly the same as the 6412, I can tell no difference. The 3416 has more hours of PVR and is an all digital box but I couldn't care less since I can't tell the difference on any of the channels.

I am going to start emailing the top-tier people in my area and tech support people and anyone else I can to get some resolution to this problem. Also, a tech support guy is coming out tommorow (I can't wait to see what problems this guy can't fix).

Has anyone had this same problem fixed with firmware 16.35? Cheers!

Has anyone had this same problem fixed with firmware 16.35? Cheers!
Firmware 16.35 does NOT apparently solve this problem (it was hoped that it would, but someone with the same problem recently got the new firmware and it did nothing to help).

Don't you just love copy protection? Not supposed to affect us law-abiding consumers, just those mean content-stealing pirates. Seems to me that copy protection has done the exact opposite - giving us these senseless HDMI/HDCP headaches (seems that a great many HDCP-enabled devices, including these Motorola DVRs, have some sort of problem or another), while those mean pirates have been virtually unaffected. You'd think the entertainment industry would eventually realize the fundamental flaw in copy protection - it just doesn't work. [/rant]

Upstream status is configured.
Center frequency 0011.552
requested and actual power levels 058db

Not using an RF amplifier. However, I do have more than one splitter. But my inband status is good for both tuners, so wouldn't that be an indication of a problem?

58db seems high. Mine is at 44 db. The headend keeps asking the STB to send higher and higher values until the signal it receives meets it's minimum signal requirement. Are those splitters rated for 1 - 1000 mhz and bidirectional operation? They appear to be attenuating the 11 mhz return signal.

Hmmm. I got both splitters from Comcast, but of course that doesn't mean anything. One is a lot older than the other.

They're both rated for 5-1000 mhz.

If that's the problem, is there a particular splitter you could recommend? My box is right next to where the cable comes into the building, for what that's worth.

Thanks.

Jim

58db seems high. Mine is at 44 db. The headend keeps asking the STB to send higher and higher values until the signal it receives meets it's minimum signal requirement. Are those splitters rated for 1 - 1000 mhz and bidirectional operation? They appear to be attenuating the 11 mhz return signal.

FWIW, when I first moved into my house my picture was crystal clear but I kept losing VOD. They finally came out and installed an amplifier and I haven't had trouble since.

FWIW, when I first moved into my house my picture was crystal clear but I kept losing VOD. They finally came out and installed an amplifier and I haven't had trouble since.

If he was losing the VOD due to tiling or 'one moment please' message I would say try the amp, but the 58 db he is getting is for the return path of the VOD. Amps do not amplify this (they just amplify the 'forward path', the pictures you see on the tv), normally they'll actually add 1 or 2 db to the return causing more resistance (the opposite of what he's looking for). The 58 db is high but should still work (pretty much right on the limit of working & not working).
zooey91 is there any way you can bypass one of the 2 splitters you're using with a coax 'barrel' or something that doesn't have any loss (any splitter you use will cause loss) for testing purposes? If you can bypass one make sure you leave it bypassed for at least 5 or 10 minutes for the box to get the needed VOD info, it will not work right away, it needs to establish it's connection to the headend which takes a few minutes. Do you have any other digital cable boxes in the house & does VOD work on them? Also, do you have the coax running through a surge protector by your tv & if so try going straight fromt he wall to the DVR. Also obviously make sure there is no other equipment before the DVR: vcr's, dvd burners, etc. The fact that you've gone through several boxes all with the same results sounds like something to do with the wiring in your house or possibly just outside your house. The techs that have been out there 'fixing' the problem by calling someone probably just sent a signal to the box for a temporary fix (it's amazing what some box hits will do sometimes). Slight chance it's something in your account because as long as you've had at least one halfway decent CSR on the phone they should have found that right away.
By the way the 5-1000mhz splitters are what should be used, one could have gone bad though.

If he was losing the VOD due to tiling or 'one moment please' message I would say try the amp, but the 58 db he is getting is for the return path of the VOD. Amps do not amplify this (they just amplify the 'forward path', the pictures you see on the tv), normally they'll actually add 1 or 2 db to the return causing more resistance (the opposite of what he's looking for). The 58 db is high but should still work (pretty much right on the limit of working & not working).
Not necessarily true. I use a PDI-407AR-6KV 4 port amplifier that provides 7 db in the forward direction (54-1000 mhz) and 3 db in the reverse direction (5-42 mhz).

58db seems high. Mine is at 44 db. The headend keeps asking the STB to send higher and higher values until the signal it receives meets it's minimum signal requirement.
Mine is at the maximum 60dB, and it works fine.

I do wish there was a true incoming signal strength listing. The diagnostics used to list AGC%, which is related (higher AGC% means weaker signal), but the new 16.xx firmware no longer list it, except for the OOB frequency.

my setup is from the wall to a splitter, one side to the box and the other to another splitter, one side of that to the cable modem and the other to my DVD recorder.

I guess I could unhook the modem and splitters for 10 minutes to see what happens, but I'm tempted to run down and get one Monster 3 way splitter to replace the two Comcast splitters and see what happens there first.

In any event, I just wait 10 minutes or so for a VOD signal, or do I need to do something (like a factory reset)?

Thanks.

Jim

If he was losing the VOD due to tiling or 'one moment please' message I would say try the amp, but the 58 db he is getting is for the return path of the VOD. Amps do not amplify this (they just amplify the 'forward path', the pictures you see on the tv), normally they'll actually add 1 or 2 db to the return causing more resistance (the opposite of what he's looking for). The 58 db is high but should still work (pretty much right on the limit of working & not working).
zooey91 is there any way you can bypass one of the 2 splitters you're using with a coax 'barrel' or something that doesn't have any loss (any splitter you use will cause loss) for testing purposes? If you can bypass one make sure you leave it bypassed for at least 5 or 10 minutes for the box to get the needed VOD info, it will not work right away, it needs to establish it's connection to the headend which takes a few minutes. Do you have any other digital cable boxes in the house & does VOD work on them? Also, do you have the coax running through a surge protector by your tv & if so try going straight fromt he wall to the DVR. Also obviously make sure there is no other equipment before the DVR: vcr's, dvd burners, etc. The fact that you've gone through several boxes all with the same results sounds like something to do with the wiring in your house or possibly just outside your house. The techs that have been out there 'fixing' the problem by calling someone probably just sent a signal to the box for a temporary fix (it's amazing what some box hits will do sometimes). Slight chance it's something in your account because as long as you've had at least one halfway decent CSR on the phone they should have found that right away.
By the way the 5-1000mhz splitters are what should be used, one could have gone bad though.

Got a bit of a problem. I just got Comcast installed at my new place since I moved out. I have a DCT 3412 I hooked up via HDMI to the TV and digital coax to the receiver. I had to do this rather then go HDMI to receiver to TV because at my last place the stupid box could not do the HDCP handshake that way and said I was using a repeater device.

The receiver's (Onkyo 604) listening mode is set to direct, I.E play whatever the source is. I had a 3416 I previously in the same configuration at my old place, but this new box makes the receiver click every single time I change the channel. It's almost like it loses the audio signal for half a second and then gets it. I've checked everything I thought of and it looks good. This is obviously irritating the heck out of me, as all I hear are click click click click click. Any suggestions?

my setup is from the wall to a splitter, one side to the box and the other to another splitter, one side of that to the cable modem and the other to my DVD recorder.

I guess I could unhook the modem and splitters for 10 minutes to see what happens, but I'm tempted to run down and get one Monster 3 way splitter to replace the two Comcast splitters and see what happens there first.

In any event, I just wait 10 minutes or so for a VOD signal, or do I need to do something (like a factory reset)?

Thanks.

Jim

A reset should not be required, just takes time for the data to populate in converter. You can try going to the VOD section on box but for the first few minutes it should just error on screen, this will have no ill side effects. I know you mentioned the lack of ip address & unconfigured status, but what do you actually get on the screen when you try to access VOD, do you get some type of META error or anything? Does the cable jumper running to your DVR have decent quality connectors on it & made correctly (no wire 'braid' wrapped around center conductor, on tightly), if not, try using the jumper that's running to your modem temporarily. Also out of curiosity what model cable modem do you have? Many modems have an internal page that you can see what the signal RX & TX is, although the DVR return freq. is different from the modem freq. sometimes you can get an idea if your TX is high (or low) in general.

When this first started happening last week, I got an error when trying to access VOD. But ever since I just get a "one moment please"

I'll try switching the cable, but they both look about the same (all the cables are Comcast issued, not Monster or any other commercial brands).

The cable modem is an RCA DCM425C; no idea how to access an internal page.

A reset should not be required, just takes time for the data to populate in converter. You can try going to the VOD section on box but for the first few minutes it should just error on screen, this will have no ill side effects. I know you mentioned the lack of ip address & unconfigured status, but what do you actually get on the screen when you try to access VOD, do you get some type of META error or anything? Does the cable jumper running to your DVR have decent quality connectors on it & made correctly (no wire 'braid' wrapped around center conductor, on tightly), if not, try using the jumper that's running to your modem temporarily. Also out of curiosity what model cable modem do you have? Many modems have an internal page that you can see what the signal RX & TX is, although the DVR return freq. is different from the modem freq. sometimes you can get an idea if your TX is high (or low) in general.

You could program an unused button on your remote with a macro and use that button to turn it on and off.

Here is the procedure I used (I leave my DVR on all the time):

1. press and hold the SETUP button until the red
light blinks twice, then release SETUP.

2. Enter 995

3. Press the button you want to program

4. Press the TV, POWER and CABLE buttons in sequence

5. press and hold the SETUP button until the red
light blinks twice, then release SETUP


I tried this and it works great. Wife only needs to hit one botton to turn just the TV on/off

Thanks!

Surf40

Is there any way to know in advance if you are going to have the HDMI handshake problem, or do you have to wait until you try to connect to your switch box? I have the DCT 3412/2305 box-platform ID 704-Phase I-SW 71.44-Firmware 12.31. I want to use a monoprice 3x1 switch box to connect to my HDTV. Does my current Comcast box have the handshake problem? And, is there a current box/SW/firmware that I should ask Comcast for that doesn't have this problem?

Thanks
I am having the same problem
50"philips plasma---->HDMI--->DCT 3412 (I) firmware 16.20--> work ok but if I try to connect thought Smart HDMI 3x1 switch
tv-->HDMI ->switch <-- HDMI<--- DVR It gave me poor picture and error massage- You HD connection was compromised .Connect using component cable, switch TV from 1080 to 480 and oxxxxxxxx . Call Comcast they have no glue what is going on , did research over internet they sad I need firmware 16.35 what is compatible with HSCP, but again Comcast have no idea what I am talking about, can somebody help to resolve this problem?
High-Bandwidth Digital Content Protection (HDCP): Created by Intel, HDCP is used with HDTV signals to prevent unauthorized duplication of copyrighted materials.

How does this all relate? Basically, my receiver and HDMI switch is saying “Your HDTV signal is not using HDCP correctly or Your HD connection was compromised.... :mad: But to return to normal 1080 I have to not just connect TV directly to this :eek: box I need totally rebut it(DVR) to make it work. Any help anyone pleaseeeeeeeeeee

Like Ceasar, I was stuck with 12.35 f/w and a brand new shiney HDMI receiver. Low and behold I just walked in today and saw that the Comcast software changed a bit, checked the f/w and finally got upgraded to 16.35.

I just tested it with the receiver and it works fine now.

I truly hate Comcast for making me wait this long.
I was stuck with 16.20 f/w and a brand new shiney HDMI switch I want
Version 16.35 it is available

* Available for Models: DCT-64xx PI, PII & PIII, DCT-34xx, DCT-6208
* Available Date: 2007-02-24
* Build Date: 2007-02-02 19:54:18
* Bugfixes:
o Update driver compatibility for HDCP handshake over HDMI connections.
o Fixed an issue where the DVR erroneously displays 100% full.
o Further optimized code for addressing audio/video stuttering on DVR playback.
o Address a compatibility problem with Passport Echo and Seachange VOD code modules. (RCN)


comcast tell me they have no idea about firware 16,35 newer heard about it .what state are you living if I tell them-> somebody got it :eek: maybe they can recognize it :mad: Please help

comcast in baltimore county maryland. 16.35

good luck

jim

Good evening,
Was wondering if someone could provide some information and let me know if I am expecting too much with my comcast dvr. I am not sure if this is how its supposed to be or not and thats why I am asking. My bedroom dvr is a 3416 and it seems to want to record the same episode each time its on...instead of just once. For example South Park..it gets the old episodes fine and records them once on Comedy Central. The new season, though, it will record the episode each time its on and I am forever going through the upcoming recordings and taking them out. Am noticing the same thing with other shows as well. I guess I am used to the tivo where it will only record the same episode once in 28 days. Is this what is supposed to be happening or not? I have it set to record only new episodes..the changed it to new and repeat and the same things happen. Any suggestions?

Thanks

Good evening,
Was wondering if someone could provide some information and let me know if I am expecting too much with my comcast dvr. I am not sure if this is how its supposed to be or not and thats why I am asking. My bedroom dvr is a 3416 and it seems to want to record the same episode each time its on...instead of just once. For example South Park..it gets the old episodes fine and records them once on Comedy Central. The new season, though, it will record the episode each time its on and I am forever going through the upcoming recordings and taking them out. Am noticing the same thing with other shows as well. I guess I am used to the tivo where it will only record the same episode once in 28 days. Is this what is supposed to be happening or not? I have it set to record only new episodes..the changed it to new and repeat and the same things happen. Any suggestions?

Thanks

Unfortunately this is how these boxes handle this, unlike tivo these boxes don't know what you've recorded after you delete the show. The 2 workarounds I know of are leave the recording on there until the week or so is over that the episode is 'new' or set manual recording for show (actually I record comedy central every wednesday from 10-10:30 for south park myself, I get alot of repeats but only records once a week.)

Thanks for the reply. So..if I were to leave an episode of say south park on my dvr for a week or so..will it not reply that episode again that week?

Thanks

Tom

I have a quick question on programming a button for the 3416.
I have already programmed the 30 second skip in there, but is there a command for "go to end of show". Sometimes i only miss a few minutes at the end, and rewinding from the end is better than FF from beginning.
Is there a list somewhere of useful programable codes for the Comcast remotes/DVRs?

Thanks.

No there is no way to go quickly to the end of a recording.

This provides the best information I've seen about programming the 3416 remote:

http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/How_to_use_a_Motorola_DVR/Programming_the_Remote

Woke up this morning and turned on the TV, immediatly noticed a different font on the guide, hit 'my dvr' and sure enough got the new menu, and found out I finally got 16.35 and the new S/W version above xxxx-1203.

Immediate observations:
-different font for all characters. Looks a little easier to read and looks to be optimized for LCD's, just like XP's "cleartype" font that smoothes the edges of characters.
-the obvious my dvr button takes you do another menu. I can learn to live with hitting my dvr and then ok pretty quickly.
-little "HD" logo in the information bar, next to the dolby symbol for HD programs.
-FF/REW didn't seem to be much faster, but the overall menu responsiveness was better. It usually is after a reboot though we'll see if it lasts.
-My 45 second skip still DOES work.

I bet i can break the box on the ol' firewire bug but I am curious to try and see if I can break it.

I don't think this is the SW version that has "Comcast Central" but I did not check. I have noticed the video feeds for future implementation of it though, they are unencrypted and reside up in the 114-119 range of the QAM tuner on my TV.

Other users say that 16.35 fixes the HDMI problem with receivers/repeaters. I use the component to my receiver and then HDMI to the 1 HDMI input on my TV. The pictuer and HD look fine to me, not sure if I'll bother getting another HDMI cable to use from the 3416 to the receiver.

First impression has been positive, although I only had a few minutes to check things out till I had to leave for work :mad:

Good evening,
Was wondering if someone could provide some information and let me know if I am expecting too much with my comcast dvr. I am not sure if this is how its supposed to be or not and thats why I am asking. My bedroom dvr is a 3416 and it seems to want to record the same episode each time its on...instead of just once. For example South Park..it gets the old episodes fine and records them once on Comedy Central. The new season, though, it will record the episode each time its on and I am forever going through the upcoming recordings and taking them out. Am noticing the same thing with other shows as well. I guess I am used to the tivo where it will only record the same episode once in 28 days. Is this what is supposed to be happening or not? I have it set to record only new episodes..the changed it to new and repeat and the same things happen. Any suggestions?

Thanks

This happens a lot on comedy central. The problem is that the I-Guide from TV Guide marks all the shows as new. Your only choice is to make a timed recording.

Thanks for the reply. So..if I were to leave an episode of say south park on my dvr for a week or so..will it not reply that episode again that week?

Thanks

Tom

In actuality the DVR uses the notation in the TV Guide information which states that the show is "New" or a "Repeat". Unfortunatly many channels do not provide that information and there is no indication if the show is new or not. In that case the system records the show. I think this is a fail safe mechnism to make sure it records anything that might be new. In addition, some stations, such as ABC in the New York area will show a new episode and indicate that it is "New" and then show it on another night in the week and again indicate that it is "New". This situation also leads to recording the same program multiple times.

So, the short answer about this is that it is the fault of the Guide and the inaccurate or missing information in the guide which causes the problems. If the guide was consistant and correct this would be a non-issue.

Thanks for the reply. So..if I were to leave an episode of say south park on my dvr for a week or so..will it not reply that episode again that week?

Thanks

Tom

That is correct, as long as the show is marked 'new' & it still sees it recorded on your DVR it should not record it again. It's a pain regardless of what method you use:
-manual recording you get episode every week - new or repeat (but only once)
-series recording & keep first episode for the whole week is annoying to keep seeing show in your recorded shows but will only record once
-series recording & delete after watching, you will have to delete show many times 3 or more times during the week
Until something is put in the software that realizes the show has been recorded recently (like tivo does), we're stuck with one of the above remedies.

Thanks so much for the advice and tips..really appreciate it. Any word on if this "issue" will still be a problem when the tivo software comes into affect?

Thanks

Tom

With the TiVo software, things will surely work a lot differently.

Does anyone know if TiVo patented their mechanism for addressing this issue? If so, then it'll be a good long time before anyone else is allowed to use the same mechanism. It is a pretty substantial competitive advantage for TiVo.

With the TiVo software, things will surely work a lot differently.

Does anyone know if TiVo patented their mechanism for addressing this issue? If so, then it'll be a good long time before anyone else is allowed to use the same mechanism. It is a pretty substantial competitive advantage for TiVo.
Even if they did, there are other ways that could be implemented to help the situation. For example, ReplayTV allowed you to set up a series recording but limit the time of day or days of the week on which to record. This could lead to problems if the original program shifted times or days, but that sort of thing happens far less often than overrecording the reruns.

That is correct, as long as the show is marked 'new' & it still sees it recorded on your DVR it should not record it again.

Is this true? If so it must be a new feature incorporated after iGuide version 71.44-1203.

The Daily Show is my number one problem with this. I now have iGuide 74.53 and the Series Recordings are working as they should so far.

That is a good idea that if the exact program resides on your DVR it won't record again. But the DVR should retain what was recorded like the TiVo. I think the TiVo has a 28 day rule. The same program cannot get recorded again via Series Recording for 28 days.

The new thing works indeed. I have set The Riches on season pass, and while the pilot was aired 3 days in a row, it only recorded it the first night, and not the subsequent nights, because it found it in my list, although all three nights it was considered new by the guide.

That is correct, as long as the show is marked 'new' & it still sees it recorded on your DVR it should not record it again.

but that is only if you do not delete the recording. If you watch the "new" rerorded show the next day and then on the day after that it again is shown as "new", my experience is that it records it again. Has this changed? Does it now know that you have recorded it sometime in the recent past and will not record it again even if deleted?

but that is only if you do not delete the recording. If you watch the "new" rerorded show the next day and then on the day after that it again is shown as "new", my experience is that it records it again. Has this changed? Does it now know that you have recorded it sometime in the recent past and will not record it again even if deleted?

Quite honestly I think if you had read all eight lines of the post I typed & not just the first line you wouldn't have asked this question. :rolleyes:

Quite honestly I think if you had read all eight lines of the post I typed & not just the first line you wouldn't have asked this question. :rolleyes:

Of course you are right. Pleasant answer nonetheless!

With the TiVo software, things will surely work a lot differently.

Does anyone know if TiVo patented their mechanism for addressing this issue? If so, then it'll be a good long time before anyone else is allowed to use the same mechanism. It is a pretty substantial competitive advantage for TiVo.

I'm not sure but I would think tivo does have this patented. But this should not really be a problem with the new Comcast/tivo guide that's coming out being it's basically being made by tivo so we should (in theory) be able to have all the goodies that are in the regular tivo guide, patented or not.

Of course you are right. Pleasant answer nonetheless!

:D (sorry I tend to be a sarcastic kind of guy)

I'm not sure but I would think tivo does have this patented. But this should not really be a problem with the new Comcast/tivo guide that's coming out being it's basically being made by tivo so we should (in theory) be able to have all the goodies that are in the regular tivo guide, patented or not.Indeed -- that would be part of what we're paying extra for.

Any ETA on TiVo? I feel like I have been waiting two years. Oh wait! I have.

Any ETA on TiVo? I feel like I have been waiting two years. Oh wait! I have.
Rollout is supposed to begin in April/May, but it will likely take a while (perhaps over a year) for it to be available in all areas. It supposedly requires OCAP, which is only deployed in a handful of markets right now.

And don't assume the Tivo service will be any better than the current I-Guide. It is likely to have a number of bugs of its own, and it will by no means fix current issues that are firmware related (such as the HDMI and remote lag problems).

Luckily my area is OCAP ready. My expectations are reasonable. Better Search and Wishlist as well as the reliability TiVo stands for.

Perhaps someone can help me here.

I swapped my DCT 6412 II this past weekend for a DCT 3416 I. I did it for the extra HDD space and because my old box was VERY buggy. (I have noticed a big difference in storage capability between the 120GB HDD and the 160GB HDD, BTW.) I am using an HDMI to DVI cable into my Panasonic PHD8UK.

Here's my problem... Every time I turn on my equipment, the DVR and the Plasma do not sync (i.e. the digital handshake problem) and the screen is white noise. I can fix this by turning the DVR off then on again, or if that is not an option (the DVR is recording) by unplugging the hdmi cable from the DVR and plugging it back in. Since this is super annoying to me (and the wife does not like it either), my question is this...

If I buy an HDMI board for my plasma and install it where the DVI board was, then use an HDMI to HDMI cable, will this problem be fixed? I am much too impatient to wait for a firmware fix to come along, and the HDMI board can be bought fairly cheap ~$120. I have firmware 16.20 right now in Boston.
Thanks,
Jakes

Jakes --
I doubt it will help, from what's indicated here: http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/How_to_use_a_Motorola_DVR/Bugs#The_DVI_or_HDMI_output_works_intermittently_or_not_at_a ll

Have you considered using the component connection?

Here's some questions for those with a 3412 from Comcast.

I have the Sony KDF-E42A10, (native resolution 720p).

1) What do most people have the cable box output set to....720p or 1080i? Right now I have it set to 1080i, because I'm not sure why, but to me setting it to 720p makes the picture look not as clear.....maybe it's my eyes.

2) I would think setting the cable box to 720p would cause the least amount of conversion. Is this true? Because the TV converts everything to 720p....any 720p signals (ABC/FOX) would basically pass through the cable box directly to the tv. Any 1080i signals would get converted ONCE by the cable box, then passed to the TV as 720p. The other way would result in a double conversion for all 720p broadcasts.

3) #2 sounds fine....of course if the scaler in the Moto box is good? Any ideas on how good the scaler is in the 3412?

4) I'm not sure why this happens but when I go into the Motorola menu to set the output (the white screen with black text), when the output is set to 1080i, the text looks really clear. When I set it to 720p....it doesn't look as clear. Is this to be expected? Should I be concerned?

5) When viewing the guide on screen.....it also seems that in 720p is doesn't look as clear, does this sound right?

-Kevin

I have the same problem on my new 6416 with a Samsung HLS5086W (720p). Its especially noticeable with text in both the Motorola setup menu and the channel guide.

I had a 6200 before and 720p looked as sharp and clear as 1080i, if not better, but with the 6416, as soon as I change the output mode in the STB menu, its readily apparent just as you said.

Before I read the rest of the thread, have you found any answers?

Perhaps someone can help me here.

I swapped my DCT 6412 II this past weekend for a DCT 3416 I. I did it for the extra HDD space and because my old box was VERY buggy. (I have noticed a big difference in storage capability between the 120GB HDD and the 160GB HDD, BTW.) I am using an HDMI to DVI cable into my Panasonic PHD8UK.

Here's my problem... Every time I turn on my equipment, the DVR and the Plasma do not sync (i.e. the digital handshake problem) and the screen is white noise. I can fix this by turning the DVR off then on again, or if that is not an option (the DVR is recording) by unplugging the hdmi cable from the DVR and plugging it back in. Since this is super annoying to me (and the wife does not like it either), my question is this...

If I buy an HDMI board for my plasma and install it where the DVI board was, then use an HDMI to HDMI cable, will this problem be fixed? I am much too impatient to wait for a firmware fix to come along, and the HDMI board can be bought fairly cheap ~$120. I have firmware 16.20 right now in Boston.
Thanks,
Jakes

I have an HDMI (PIO plasma) & avoid this by just leaving the DVR on all the time.

I have an HDMI (PIO plasma) & avoid this by just leaving the DVR on all the time.

Carl,
Do you have this same issue with an HDMI --> HDMI connection?

Is there a way to still use the "All On" button on the remote to still turn on my receiver and plasma, but not turn the DVR on/off?
Thanks

Perhaps someone can help me here.


I have the same problem with a Samsung TV. It gets fixed for me if i power cycle the TV, so it works out pretty easily. Supposedly the newer firmware fixes it, but we will have to wait and see.

Carl,
Do you have this same issue with an HDMI --> HDMI connection?

Is there a way to still use the "All On" button on the remote to still turn on my receiver and plasma, but not turn the DVR on/off?
Thanks

Yes. Go to the Wikipedia that tells about programing the Comcast remote. You have to re-program the Power button (when in Cable mode) to another button; then the All On button won't activate it.

Not personally, but that is a well-known issue with firmware 12.31 and earlier. If you have anything between the DVR and your TV (such as an AVR or switch), the DVR won't work unless your firmware is newer than 12.31 (such as 12.35 or 16.20).

Either use component cables, or hook up the DVR directly to your TV (with nothing in between).

Well lo and behold -- I checked last night and the firmware has now been updated to 16.35 (straight from 12.31).

So I'll have to test HDMI switching this weekend -- but should work now!

The headend will always have the latest firmware that is fully compatible for the equipment and software that it uses. If you are at 12.31, then that is currently the best it can use.

Not every area will be able to use or install the latest firmware. It's just not that simple.

Your HDMI switcher is not compliant with the STB HDMI drivers. It must be a direct connection to your TV.

Use Componant cables and have your TV Component cable imput calibrated.

the only 2 differences between the 2 connections are Component is Analog Compressed signal, and HDMI is Digital Un Compressed. With proper TV input Calibration it is very hard to tell the difference.


YMMV,

good luck!

Well they finally updated Marple Township (DE Country) with the 16.35 firmware. About time!

Yes. Go to the Wikipedia that tells about programing the Comcast remote. You have to re-program the Power button (when in Cable mode) to another button; then the All On button won't activate it.

Fantastic, thank you.

Yes. Go to the Wikipedia that tells about programing the Comcast remote. You have to re-program the Power button (when in Cable mode) to another button; then the All On button won't activate it.

I appreciate the help millerwill & Carl Jones.

Reporting back, I tried not shutting off the DVR, but that is not the issue. It seems that my TV needs to be turned on first and the cable box second in order to sync the two. The "All On" macro key turns on the DVR 1st, TV 2nd, Aux 3rd. Is there any way to change the preferred order of the "All On" macro? That would be perfect.

If not, I guess I will 1.) need to buy the HDMI board to see if that will solve the problem (I will need a second digital input for the future HDDVD/DB player anyway), 2.)stop using the All On key and tell everyone that uses my TV to make sure that they turn things on in the right order (yeah right!), or 3.)wait for the 16.35 firmware to roll out in Boston.

HDMI is a joke. <sigh> I should have stayed with DVI.

Jakes not sure what sections you read on the 'wiki' page but here are two that should bring you right to the sections you're asking about (they talk about the 'all on' button & macros):
http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/How_to_use_a_Motorola_DVR/Programming_the_Remote#All_On_key

http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/How_to_use_a_Motorola_DVR/Programming_the_Remote#Macros

It depends on how much work you want to go through for this, the Boston area is supposed to get the firmware upgrade that 'fixes' this pretty much any time now (I had heard first quarter but that's only a week left) & it's promising seeing other areas around the country reporting they have it. Also going back to something Wareagle asked you the other day, is there a reason you don't go to the component input on the tv, don't have a free input available or don't think it looks as good as hdmi?

Today our area was upgraded with firmware 16.35. This is now the latest build. Compile date was 2/02/2007. This supposedly fixes a lot of HDCP issues over HDMI or DVI(6412p1/p2, 6200). Anyone else with this latest build to confirm? I don't have HDMI on my TV, I just use component, but it would be nice to know that it works great for future reference.

Just got 16.35. Prior to that we had 12.31.

With 12.31 I could NOT use my AV Receiver for HDMI switching. With 16.35 I now can.

12.31 gave a message that "repeaters" were not allowed. 16.35 removes that warning and allows switching.

I am now just HDMI -- no more component.

This fixed several issues, including interference from my dimmer switches, and better positioning of image. I noticed with component that some network HD logos (lower right hand corner logos) were cut off with component. With HDMI, the logos show up correctly (within the image).

So HDMI is better for a number of reasons. Not just picture quality.

Jakes not sure what sections you read on the 'wiki' page but here are two that should bring you right to the sections you're asking about (they talk about the 'all on' button & macros):
http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/How_to_use_a_Motorola_DVR/Programming_the_Remote#All_On_key

http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/How_to_use_a_Motorola_DVR/Programming_the_Remote#Macros

It depends on how much work you want to go through for this, the Boston area is supposed to get the firmware upgrade that 'fixes' this pretty much any time now (I had heard first quarter but that's only a week left) & it's promising seeing other areas around the country reporting they have it. Also going back to something Wareagle asked you the other day, is there a reason you don't go to the component input on the tv, don't have a free input available or don't think it looks as good as hdmi?

Thanks Jon.
It seems I cannot reprogram the All On key... From Wiki, "The All On key is a built-in macro that sends Power codes for all 3 devices. This macro cannot be altered or removed." [Bummer]

RE: Component, I prefer to avoid the unnecessary digital --> analog then analog --> digital conversion. Not only does DVI/HDMI look better on my setup, there are less cables to deal with (1 vs. 3) and my plasma produces superior gray-scale with DVI/HDMI connections vs. component.

Perhaps I will wait for the firmware upgrade, but I will likely test the HDMI --> HDMI connection to see if it fixes the issue. As I said earlier, I could use another digital input anyway.

Thanks Jon.
It seems I cannot reprogram the All On key... From Wiki, "The All On key is a built-in macro that sends Power codes for all 3 devices. This macro cannot be altered or removed." [Bummer]

But as these Wiki writeups describe, you can re-program the Cable 'Power' to a Cable 'Shift, Power' command. Then, to turn the Cable stb off, you need to press 'Setup', then 'Power'. So you can still turn the stb off and on, if you want to, but the 'All On' button will not do so; i.e., 'All On' will turn the tv on and off (and the dvd if you have it on the 'AUX' ), but not the stb.

Just got 16.35. Prior to that we had 12.31.

With 12.31 I could NOT use my AV Receiver for HDMI switching. With 16.35 I now can.

12.31 gave a message that "repeaters" were not allowed. 16.35 removes that warning and allows switching.

I am now just HDMI -- no more component.

This fixed several issues, including interference from my dimmer switches, and better positioning of image. I noticed with component that some network HD logos (lower right hand corner logos) were cut off with component. With HDMI, the logos show up correctly (within the image).

So HDMI is better for a number of reasons. Not just picture quality.

It would be nice for those who are reporting something specific to their area that they give us a clue of where their area is!

It would be nice for those who are reporting something specific to their area that they give us a clue of where there area is!

I'll second that! If everyone would put their location in their message tag or signature it would be a big help!

Over all I can't say much bad after the switch over to 16.35 the other week here in the Comcast Sellersville area ... however, I do kind of miss the basketball sports icon that used to be on the first screen after hitting the menu button. Now it takes a whole extra button press to get to the select sports by category search section. :o :rolleyes:

I have not noticed any ill effects using my DVR since the MyDVR menu glitch. The box has been working quite well, and I have been very happy with it!

This fixed several issues, including interference from my dimmer switches, and better positioning of image. I noticed with component that some network HD logos (lower right hand corner logos) were cut off with component. With HDMI, the logos show up correctly (within the image).
The cutoff is an issue with your TV. Most analog inputs have a certain amount of overscan. A good TV will be 2.5-5%. Some can be much worse.

Oddly, some TV's overscan even with digital inputs. On some, there may be a setting allowing for one-to-one or similar named setting, especially if your TV's native resolution matches a real HD resolution such as 1920x1080 or 1280x768.

The cutoff is an issue with your TV. Most analog inputs have a certain amount of overscan. A good TV will be 2.5-5%. Some can be much worse.

Oddly, some TV's overscan even with digital inputs. On some, there may be a setting allowing for one-to-one or similar named setting, especially if your TV's native resolution matches a real HD resolution such as 1920x1080 or 1280x768.

Yes, but some networks, particularly FOX (and my FOX local), put their HD logos too close to the edge. So it only shows up right if you have almost zero overscan. They need to use more of the "safe" area. (I have a projector -- so it also depends on if you have any "overspill" onto your frame).

Check out CBS and their HD logo. They do it right. No matter what your overscan (or even if its zero), CBS's HD logo will appear correctly in the lower right-hand corner (and not in the 4:3 lower corner, but positioned right for 16:9).

FOX and even ABC do not do it quite correctly for HD -- unless you have just about zero overscan -- which isn't proper network protocol (as you don't see that on the old 4:3 TVs for their analog logos, since they used the "safe" area (allowing for a little over scan). FOX and ABC need to allow a little play with their HD logos (just like CBS).

Anyone else getting popping sounds, kinda like firecrackers going off? Usually, hitting skip back fixes it, but it happens pretty often, and it's happened on several different boxes.

Anyone else getting popping sounds, kinda like firecrackers going off? Usually, hitting skip back fixes it, but it happens pretty often, and it's happened on several different boxes.
That's a signal issue, it has nothing to do with your STB. Check your local programming and reception thread.

Originally Posted by opus312 Anyone else getting popping sounds, kinda like firecrackers going off? Usually, hitting skip back fixes it, but it happens pretty often, and it's happened on several different boxes.

That's a signal issue, it has nothing to do with your STB. Check your local programming and reception thread.

Thanks, not sure what you mean by "programming and reception thread" - ?

Thanks, not sure what you mean by "programming and reception thread" - ?
Because your reception issue is more likely local than universal, it makes more sense to post it in the thread in this forum devoted to HD and DVR issues of your city. There are many threads devoted to individual cities. Just look for the threads specific to your city.

[B]AS A Newbie, I must say, I'm confounded. I recently got a moto 6416 and a hd lcd TV. The cable guy set it up, it had no owners manual, I downloaded a users manual from the motorola site, but it is for I-Guide, which is not what We have here, (central S. Carolina). I'm not a true audiophile (my first color TV was brown) but my DVD/VCR combo doesn't work. The cable guy ran the source cable to the combo, then jumpered it (Video Out) to the DVR via coax, then used component to the TV. Twitchee3, in another thread says this is wrong, that the coax needs a splitter. Any links to places that might help me resolve this issue??

Check out the wiki: http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/How_to_use_a_Motorola_DVR

Definitely don't run video from the combo to the box. Try running the coax to the box, and audio/video from the box to the combo. Component (or HDMI) is the right way to go from the box to the TV.

Since connecting my Comcast 3416 DVR via HDMI to my receiver (which then outputs via hdmi to my projector), I notice that sometimes when changing channels, it appears the signal will drop, and then come back in a second or two (like the HDMI handshake is occurring again).

I'll see a message (from my projector) saying "no signal". This last for about 2 seconds, then the picture and audio returns.

Is this the DVR causing this?

Note that it doesn't happen always when I change the channel, but just sometimes (but often enough to be annoying when channel surfing).

can't fix).

Has anyone had this same problem fixed with firmware 16.35? Cheers!

Yes -- went from 12.31 to 16.35 firmware the other day. The 16.35 allows me to use my a/v receiver as an HDMI switcher. Before, with 12.31, I also got the message about "repeaters" and the green screen.

Since connecting my Comcast 3416 DVR via HDMI to my receiver (which then outputs via hdmi to my projector), I notice that sometimes when changing channels, it appears the signal will drop, and then come back in a second or two (like the HDMI handshake is occurring again).

I'll see a message (from my projector) saying "no signal". This last for about 2 seconds, then the picture and audio returns.

Is this the DVR causing this?

Note that it doesn't happen always when I change the channel, but just sometimes (but often enough to be annoying when channel surfing).

My TV does something similar whenever I change to a channel in a different resolution. I don't get anything similar "no signal" but it just seems as if it takes a little longer to display a channel. Not sure if this is what's happening with you.

My TV does something similar whenever I change to a channel in a different resolution. I don't get anything similar "no signal" but it just seems as if it takes a little longer to display a channel. Not sure if this is what's happening with you.

No, this is not the resolution change from HD to SD or vice versa.

This is changing within HD channels (I don't watch SD on my projector).

No, this is not the resolution change from HD to SD or vice versa.

This is changing within HD channels (I don't watch SD on my projector).

Could it be when you go from a 720p HD channel to a 1080i HD channel or vice versa?

Could it be when you go from a 720p HD channel to a 1080i HD channel or vice versa?

I doubt it -- since it doesn't happen everytime.

I can switch from discovery HD to INHD no problem one time, but the next time I get the delay and "no signal" indication.

Regardless, the change would occur at the cable box level for that, since it is set to output 720p.

That's a signal issue, it has nothing to do with your STB. Check your local programming and reception thread.

I'm not so sure. I'm in the same house with the same equipment that I've had for the last 6 years (including a 6412 for the last 3 years) and I never had a signal issue (in-line amp as well) or any noise in any of that time. I recently switched to a 3416 and I've experienced the 'fireworks' noise a couple of times a week--almost sounds like a glitch in the digital audio (I'm using optical) because I hear it in the sub channel as well as the main speakers. It's very *loud* compared to the regular volume of the program.

Found a new bug last night, about a week after getting 16.35, and a bad one at that.

Rewind/FF, swap tuners, changing channels, all resulted in a frozen picture for about 15 seconds, then a blank screen. I power off the box, it comes back on fine, but as soon as I change the channel, or do anything it froze up.

It's not overheating or anything.

Of course pulling the plug fixed it, but I never had anything like this before, hmmm. I don't even use HDMI! Picture looks fine w/ the component, no reason to switch, at least for now.

My firmware just changed from 12.31 to 16.35. They fixed the MUTE problem. If the STB is off when a recording begins, the audio is disabled but the MUTE indicator does not appear at the top center of the screen. The first IR signal that is received by the STB turns the audio on, no matter what function has been requested.

My firmware just changed from 12.31 to 16.35. They fixed the MUTE problem. If the STB is off when a recording begins, the audio is disabled but the MUTE indicator does not appear at the top center of the screen. The first IR signal that is received by the STB turns the audio on, no matter what function has been requested.
It also cancels the auto-power-off when the recording ends.

moto 3416- can hard drive be replaced
hi,
can the 160G HD in the motorola 3416 be replaced with a larger HD? Is it formatted in a unique way or will the 3416 recognize or automatically reformat a new, larger drive?
thanks.

No the hard drive is not upgradable by the user. If you open it you buy it.

ajwees41

Not only "you buy it" but if it breaks, they won't fix it or help you fix it.

Plus the Motorola box will not format a drive larger than 160gb. The new Panasonic boxes will have a 250gb hard drive.

Plus the Motorola box will not format a drive larger than 160gb.

Do we actually know this for 16.35.? One of the earlier firmware updates raised the limit from 120GB to 160GB.

Do we actually know this for 16.35.? One of the earlier firmware updates raised the limit from 120GB to 160GB.
I have read that Motorola makes DVR's with a 320 GB drive, but I don't know if they use the same firmware or not (I'm thinking not, but I have no way of knowing). If I recall correctly, they cost an extra $500 per unit, which is why they aren't being deployed.

I'm not too concerned with HDD size, as long as they get that eSATA port working. If they can get that thing to work, then those who want more space can buy it. (I'm not holding my breath, however - although they are supposed to be working on fixing the bugs with that port, I'd be surprised if a fix and activation come anytime soon, given Motorola's track record.)

I have read that Motorola makes DVR's with a 320 GB drive, but I don't know if they use the same firmware or not (I'm thinking not, but I have no way of knowing). If I recall correctly, they cost an extra $500 per unit, which is why they aren't being deployed.

I'm not too concerned with HDD size, as long as they get that eSATA port working. If they can get that thing to work, then those who want more space can buy it. (I'm not holding my breath, however - although they are supposed to be working on fixing the bugs with that port, I'd be surprised if a fix and activation come anytime soon, given Motorola's track record.)


Where did see that? They only ofer 160GB drives.

ajwees41

Where did see that? They only ofer 160GB drives.

ajwees41
It was somewhere on the AVS forums (forget which thread). I think it was scanpa who posted about it. It wasn't too long ago that I saw it.

I have a silly question to ask.

I bought a dct3416 from ebay and am planning to get digital cable real soon. I received the box but I have a few questions. Just to get it out the way, the cable company says they will program the box or whatever to let it work so thats not a prob. I plugged up the box and powered it on and did the power off select button thing to view the diagnostics. The diagnostics says "DVR Enabled: False." Does this mean I have a bad box, or is it that it needs to detect a cable feed to enable the dvr? I checked the hard drive size d13 I think it was in the diagnostics and it says that 8gb is used on recording, so i know something is recorded on the box.

Long and short, I just want to know if I should be able to access the recordings even though I dont have it hooked up presently.

Thanks in advance, and sorry for rambling on so long.

Unless you live in Canada, you probably have an expensive doorstop. There doesn't seem to be any way to use it, at least not with Comcast.

If you can get the cable company to activate the box they will download firmware to the box that will activate the features supported by that cable company.

Found a new bug last night, about a week after getting 16.35, and a bad one at that.

Rewind/FF, swap tuners, changing channels, all resulted in a frozen picture for about 15 seconds, then a blank screen. I power off the box, it comes back on fine, but as soon as I change the channel, or do anything it froze up.

It's not overheating or anything.

Of course pulling the plug fixed it, but I never had anything like this before, hmmm. I don't even use HDMI! Picture looks fine w/ the component, no reason to switch, at least for now.

Happened again, about 3 days after rebooting.... I can't believe i'm the only one that has this problem?

Happened again, about 3 days after rebooting.... I can't believe i'm the only one that has this problem?
There may have been a glitch when applying the new firmware update. You may try a factory full reset to re-apply the firmware (in case it makes a difference). If problems persist, you may have to swap boxes.

I'd be extremely surprised if that problem is a widespread 16.35 bug. If it is, they'll likely be forced to recall the update and revert to an earlier build (since the symptoms you describe are serious enough).

Where did see that? They only ofer 160GB drives.

ajwees41

Moto does offer a DCT 3432 & a DCH xx32 model, however I have yet to see any MSO's offer it to there users.

Where did see that? They only ofer 160GB drives.

ajwees41
Incorrect.

There is a version with a larger hard drive available from Motorola to cable operators, but because of the large price tag, these haven't made it to the consumer, at least on any notable scale.

Incorrect.

There is a version with a larger hard drive available from Motorola to cable operators, but because of the large price tag, these haven't made it to the consumer, at least on any notable scale.


I have searched the motorola site and can't find any listed. Where are they?

ajwees41

I have searched the motorola site and can't find any listed. Where are they?

ajwees41
They are not listed on the Motorola site, and the only time i have seen them referenced on the web is here in AVS Forum.

They are not listed on the Motorola site, and the only time i have seen them referenced on the web is here in AVS Forum.


So they may not even be avalable from Motorola yet?
ajwees41

So they may not even be avalable from Motorola yet?
ajwees41
If I had to guess, I'd say there are few, if any of these that exist in a physical form, but I know they exist on paper, and I'm guessing that they are currently "available." If any cable operator were to request one or more of these units from Motorola, they would just install larger hard drives in their widely produced models.

If I had to guess, I'd say there are few, if any of these that exist in a physical form, but I know they exist on paper, and I'm guessing that they are currently "available." If any cable operator were to request one or more of these units from Motorola, they would just install larger hard drives in their widely produced models.

I just can't see how that could involve any great cost increase.

I just can't see how that could involve any great cost increase.
Neither can we :confused:

Best guess is they just don't want us to have more recording capacity :rolleyes:

So I've managed to get the firewire approach to allow me to transfer from my 3416 to my MBP running 10.4.8. If I do this for a live show, everything works peachy. If I use the same approach (AVCVideoCAP) for recording shows that are on my DVR HD (ie: pre-recorded content as opposed to something I'm watching "live"), I only get video, but no audio. Am I just SOL w/ regard to the stuff on the DVR HD as far as the firewire xfer goes? Any info is appreciated.

Forgot to mention that the content I'm trying to transfer is "Copy freely" in both cases.

I have a dilemma that I hope someone can help with. I will be out of town for several weeks, and while I'm gone my local Comcast system will be remapping all of the HD channels and many of the SD channels to new channel numbers to accommodate new channels that will be added.

I have numerous series recordings (mostly HD, but some SD also) that I'm afraid I will miss when the channel changes occur. I assume the 3416 isn't smart enough to change my series recordings without my intervention so I'm trying to figure out my options.

One option is to set up manual recordings of every show based on the new channels which would be time consuming but maybe the most reliable. A second option is to change the series recordings to record All Channels, but I'm not sure: a) whether this will automatically record the shows on the new channels numbers, and b) whether this will definitely record both the HD channel and the SD channel for shows that are shown on both. I've never used this option to see how reliable it is.

Any advice?

edit: I just realized setting up manual recordings won't work anyway. To use this option, you need to select the channel to record and in the case of the HD channels, the channel numbers don't exist yet, and won't until after I'm gone. Yikes, am I SOL?

I have a dilemma that I hope someone can help with. I will be out of town for several weeks, and while I'm gone my local Comcast system will be remapping all of the HD channels and many of the SD channels to new channel numbers to accommodate new channels that will be added.

I have numerous series recordings (mostly HD, but some SD also) that I'm afraid I will miss when the channel changes occur. I assume the 3416 isn't smart enough to change my series recordings without my intervention so I'm trying to figure out my options.



Actually it should not be a problem. If the recording is going to made on Discovery then it will be made on Discovery no matter where it is located. Your recordings should be fine when you get home, other than the "normal" glitches and problems that beset these boxes.

Actually it should not be a problem. If the recording is going to made on Discovery then it will be made on Discovery no matter where it is located. Your recordings should be fine when you get home, other than the "normal" glitches and problems that beset these boxes.

So for instance, if I'm trying to record Lost and I currently have my series recording set for This Channel Only, should I change the setting to All Channels and then I'll get both the SD and HD channel recording? Or should I leave it on This Channel Only and hope that the box resets the channel number to correspond with the new channel number?

If I record both the SD and HD channels, I'll probably have multiple conflicts because I already record simultaneous shows using both tuners on some nights.

So for instance, if I'm trying to record Lost and I currently have my series recording set for This Channel Only, should I change the setting to All Channels and then I'll get both the SD and HD channel recording? Or should I leave it on This Channel Only and hope that the box resets the channel number to correspond with the new channel number?

If I record both the SD and HD channels, I'll probably have multiple conflicts because I already record simultaneous shows using both tuners on some nights.

Leave it as is. This channel is the named channel, "Discovery" or "TNT' or "NBCHD". I have never had a problem with recordings when Comcast adjusts its channel lineup unless the channel is dropped altogether.

Leave it as is. This channel is the named channel, "Discovery" or "TNT' or "NBCHD". I have never had a problem with recordings when Comcast adjusts its channel lineup unless the channel is dropped altogether.

ok, thanks. I'll hope for the best. The 3416 isn't the most reliable anyway (understatement of the year) so I never have 100% confidence when I leave it unattended, but this change really has me spooked that I'll miss many of my shows.

ok, thanks. I'll hope for the best. The 3416 isn't the most reliable anyway (understatement of the year) so I never have 100% confidence when I leave it unattended, but this change really has me spooked that I'll miss many of my shows.
The only way you'll have a problem is if the new channel lineup has different names from the old. Say, for example, Discovery HD is currently called "DHD." After the lineup change, if it's still "DHD," you'll have no problems. However, if the new guide calls it, say, "D-HD" or "DSCHD," the DVR will not recognize it as the same channel and not move your series recordings to it.

At least in my area, Comcast has done a good job in keeping names in sync when moving channels, but I haven't had a major channel lineup change in years (long before I had a DVR).

At least in my area, Comcast has done a good job in keeping names in sync when moving channels, but I haven't had a major channel lineup change in years (long before I had a DVR).

Except for the hassle of learning new channel numbers and the problem I have leaving while all the changes are occurring, I do have to applaud Comcast here for making these changes (not counting the benefit of adding UHD, A&E HD, NGHD, and SunSports HD). Currently, similar channels are scattered everywhere, and with the new lineup, the location of the channels will make much more sense.

The 23 HD channels will have the 400-499 channel range all to themselves. :cool: Hopefully, the remainder to be filled some day.

As of today their is an anoying messenger banner on the bottem of my channel guide taking up tons of space! For the love of God make it go away or I'm throwing this box out the window!

As of today their is an anoying messenger banner on the bottem of my channel guide taking up tons of space! For the love of God make it go away or I'm throwing this box out the window!

Welcome to the future...

Get used to it. I have. Really.

As of today their is an anoying messenger banner on the bottem of my channel guide taking up tons of space! For the love of God make it go away or I'm throwing this box out the window!
The only way to get rid of it is to cancel your subscription. If enough do, maybe Comcast will get the message. It's pretty stupid. 90% of the time, it's just 'how to' links. Even odder, I've seen it show 3 variations of the same 'how to' at the same time!!

Anyone see this new thing in their guide?

It actually is channel 960 -- which is a central command sort of console (when you press home on the main menu).

It has links for sports, news, kids etc. If you choose news, it shows you whats on like 4 different news channels at that time, and you can click over to each channel directly from there.

Sort of cool, if implemented more robustly I think.

Get used to it. I have. Really.

I haven't. They irritate me every time I go the program guide. Second only to the ridiculously large, unadjustable font that allows only 5 stations and 1.5 hours of programming to be displayed at a time. What idiots decided this was acceptable? If I had a better option for a provider I would be gone.

I hate the stupid ads and guide generally, but if you use your DVR primarily as a DVR then you never really need use the guide anyway. Just record everything and never watch live TV. Who wants to sit through 15 minutes per hour of commercials anyway? As for the guide, there are plenty of options on the internet for guides - use those instead of the Comcrap one.

Why isn't there an IPTV company out there offering me high quality HD download TV? This seems overdue. I would ditch Comcrap video services instantly if there was some real alternative available on the internet. I can't wait to ditch them just like I ditched Bellsouth years ago when decent VOIP became available.

Anyone see this new thing in their guide?

It actually is channel 960 -- which is a central command sort of console (when you press home on the main menu).

It has links for sports, news, kids etc. If you choose news, it shows you whats on like 4 different news channels at that time, and you can click over to each channel directly from there.

Sort of cool, if implemented more robustly I think.

Just noticed this tonight on my box as well. This is S/W update to version 74.53 Not bad considering 3 weeks ago I had a firmware at least 18 months old, just got 16.35 a couple weeks ago, now the latest S/W version too!

Comcast explains the changes here (http://www.comcast.com/newguide/)

"Comcast Central" and the channels with the multiple feeds have been on the unencrypted QAM for a couple months now, around 115 or something. Looks like they finally rolled them out.

I hate the stupid ads and guide generally, but if you use your DVR primarily as a DVR then you never really need use the guide anyway. Just record everything and never watch live TV. Who wants to sit through 15 minutes per hour of commercials anyway? As for the guide, there are plenty of options on the internet for guides - use those instead of the Comcrap one.

When I had a TiVo that recorded 180 hours, that line of thinking made sense. Now, with HD, when I get 20 hours tops, I can only record my most favorite shows before I run out of space. When I don't want to watch those (mostly, because I watch them with my wife, and can't watch them when she's not around), I need to watch live TV (mostly because I can't be bothered to switch to my TiVo to watch something in SD instead ;).

Hi all,

I have been having trouble with the On Demand on my 3416 box in South Bend, Indiana. The only way I can get it to work consistently is to run the cable directly from the pole into the box. If I use any splitter, including the Comcast supplied splitter, I get an E1003 error. I was hoping that if I posted my signal levels, someone could decifer if I have a signal problem. These signals are being read from on one leg of a two-leg splitter supplied by Comcast. The other leg goes to my cable modem. My cable-wire runs are not very long and I am using RG-6 cabling with compression fittings. My Internet is very fast, HD has no pixelation, and DVR works great...yet this stupid On Deman barely ever works.

The stranger thing is that it seems to work more consistently between 9:00 pm and 8:00 am. Then around 8:00 am, I'll start getting the E1003 error. For example, this morning I started an episode of the Sopranos at 7:30 am and it played through fine. When it was over, I hit the stop button and then On Demand froze and I was unable to get back into the menu...instead receiving the E1003 error.

Please let me know if you see anything here that looks troubling.

Here are the signal:

OOB Status
OOB Frequency: 075.25 MHz
Carrier Lock: Yes
Data: Yes
EMM Data: Yes
SNR: 21.7 dB Good
AGC: 15% Good
EMM PROVIDER ID: 0X0003
EMM PID: 0X1504
NETWORK PID: 0X0777

IN-BAND TUNER 1
MODE: 256 QAM
SNR: 36.2 dB Good
AGC: 64% Good
No error counts

IN-BAND TUNER 2
MODE: 256 QAM
SNR: 36.5 dB Good
AGC: 62% Good
No error counts

UPSTREAM MODEM
Center Frequency: 8.96 MHz
Requested Power Level: 038 dB
Actual Power Level: 038 dB
Report Back Address: 0x10DF4E
Last RB Attempt Time: 0000000000

Interactive Status
IP Address 010.201.053.105
...
STATE: (When getting error E1003 it shows "WAIT_SO_ACK" but when it is working it says "RUNNING)

You have excellent levels. I don't see any obvious issues. Maybe your head end is having problems. They may be doing maintenance/upgrades during the day.

You have excellent levels. I don't see any obvious issues. Maybe your head end is having problems. They may be doing maintenance/upgrades during the day.

This has been going on for weeks however. Do you think it's worth a shot at taking my 3416 to my local office for an exchange? Maybe this unit isn't puting out enough signal for the upstream to get through a single 2-way splitter?

Darth --
Have you tried temporarily removing the splitter?

Darth --
Have you tried temporarily removing the splitter?

Yes, like I said in the original post, the only way to get On Demand to work is to run the line directly from the pole into the 3416...with no splitter. I have tried six different splitters, all at least 1 GHz compatible, and I get the same problem.

The readings I listed are when the 3416 is connected to one leg of a 2-way splitter, which from what I was told above are excellent readings.

As a side note, at the moment I am not getting the E1003 error but when I try to pull up a list of shows on any On Demand channel it says "No listings availabe".

I ended up going to my local Comcast office and swapped for a different 3416. I came home and hooked it up and guess what???.....On Demand works perfectly on it. Hopefully it stays that way.

I hope I'm forgiven for not reading the entire 116 page thread before asking this question...

I just got a 3416 from comcast, and it seems like the disk drive is constantly spinning, even when the DVR is turned off. How can I fix this?

There is no way to turn off the DVR. Regardless, it shouldn't be turned off. It should be left on.

While you can turn off the box you can't turn off the hard drive, just like a TiVo. You'd have to unplug it and you don't want to do that. The reason the hard drive continues to spin is because it is constantly recording so you have a "buffer". Welcome to the world of hard drive recording - the greatest invention since the DVD player.

Other than the occasional delays in executing demands my 3416 has been pretty trouble free until yesterday. As I was watching a normal program the picture and sound went blank for a few minutes and I wasn't able to get it to recognize anything, almost like somebody pulled the power cord. It came back and everything seemed normal except the guide disappeared, and later on I realized that my saved programs would not play. I tried again later to no avail. Then today I did a reset (power cycle) and lo and behold they now play fine.

Was this just a normal Comcast event where they were pushing new firmware to the box? To be honest I haven't checked the firmware in quite a while, because everything was fine, so I wouldn't know if what I have now is a new version or not.

We recently replaced our 6412 with a 3416. We seldom watch realtime anymore preferring to timeshift and commercial skip.

We had gotten pretty good at commercial skipping with the 6412 but have noticed something pretty weird with the 3416. As we're fast forwarding if we hit play we're actually a couple of minutes into the show. As we're rewinding we see a lot of stuff that was never seen during fast forward.

It's like the FFW display buffer is quite a bit behind the play buffer and when switching to PLAY the play buffer gets selected.

Anyone else notice this?

Never seen in several years of 6412 use.

jtm

I've noticed that our 3412 gradually loses audio volume over several days and finally needs to be powered off/on to regain a reasonable audio setting of somewhere in the 20's on our Mitsu.

At the extreme the audio can be moved to full volume and still be too quiet.

This happens over HDMI as well as normal stereo audio so I don't think it's the TV.

As I said recycling power on the 3416 restores the audio level for several days.

Anyone else?

jtm

Yes, like I said in the original post, the only way to get On Demand to work is to run the line directly from the pole into the 3416...with no splitter. I have tried six different splitters, all at least 1 GHz compatible, and I get the same problem.

The readings I listed are when the 3416 is connected to one leg of a 2-way splitter, which from what I was told above are excellent readings.

As a side note, at the moment I am not getting the E1003 error but when I try to pull up a list of shows on any On Demand channel it says "No listings availabe".

Darth Evader.
I live in the Granger area and was curious as to the software and firmware versions you have on your 3416 box? Were they the same on your new box as your old box?

I had to try it and it works. Quick summary:

1. Computer: Macbook 2GHz Intel Core Duo, 1GB Ram
2. Cable Box: Motorola 3412
3. Download FireWireSDK23 from Apple
4. Connect Mac to Moto's left (facing rear) firewire port
5. The go to this website...
http://macteens.com/index.php/features/fullstory/how_to_make_your_own_home_theatre_mac_htmac/
...and follow the instructions best you can. The key pieces are AVCBrowser and VirtualDVHS
6. It wasn't easy but I eventually figured it out and recorded a 22 minute HD show off PBS
7. Resulting .m2t file was about 2.8gb
8. The Macbook just didn't have the horsepower to play back the file with VLC 0.8.5 well. Audio was fine, but video was jerky.
9. So I converted it to mp4 via iSquint, and quicktime player handled it fine

My conclusion:
You can capture HD video via a mac, but you need more processor speed than a 1st generation macbook to playback. It was fun to see if it was feasible nonetheless.

You should qualify that :) The video in the MacBook (not Pro) is shared video memory. The MacBook Pro/Intel iMac, and the Mac Pros can play this stuff flawlessly. Consumer based Macs (the Mini, and the MacBook) may have problems.

I hope this is the right place to post this observation and subsequent question I just got a Motorola DCT 3416 I and have been suffering through it. At first It would not receive channel 205. After multiple reauthorizations down the line from Comcast they had me go and swap out the box. I still had the same problem. Then they sent a tech out. We connected the cable line directly to the box and 205 came in. I have a ChannelPlus bi-directional DA550BID amp and for some reason that seems to be cutting that frequency out. I contacted Channel Plus with this and they are looking into it.

That part is temporaily solved but wanted to offer that to anyone else that may be experiencing the same problem. A bigger problem I have is getting digital audio to my surround receiver. My receiver has no HDMI inputs so I have HDM going from the cable box to the TV. I am unable to simultaneously get digital audio from the box to the receiver (optical) or digilat audio out of the TV to send back to the receiver so I can listen to the great audio while watching the great picture.

Any suggestions here?

I hope this is the right place to post this observation and subsequent question I just got a Motorola DCT 3416 I and have been suffering through it. At first It would not receive channel 205. After multiple reauthorizations down the line from Comcast they had me go and swap out the box. I still had the same problem. Then they sent a tech out. We connected the cable line directly to the box and 205 came in. I have a ChannelPlus bi-directional DA550BID amp and for some reason that seems to be cutting that frequency out. I contacted Channel Plus with this and they are looking into it.

That part is temporaily solved but wanted to offer that to anyone else that may be experiencing the same problem. A bigger problem I have is getting digital audio to my surround receiver. My receiver has no HDMI inputs so I have HDM going from the cable box to the TV. I am unable to simultaneously get digital audio from the box to the receiver (optical) or digilat audio out of the TV to send back to the receiver so I can listen to the great audio while watching the great picture.

Any suggestions here?

Many TV's will not pass out 5.1 audio via the digital/optical output, if it's coming in through the HDMI. It will only output audio through that port if you are watching TV using the TV's tuner. What you do is connect the digital coax or optical output of the 3416 box right into your receiver.

Many TV's will not pass out 5.1 audio via the digital/optical output, if it's coming in through the HDMI. It will only output audio through that port if you are watching TV using the TV's tuner. What you do is connect the digital coax or optical output of the 3416 box right into your receiver.
Is this a DRM issue? One would think the TV makers would want people to migrate to having the TV, rather than the receiver, be the center of the home theater. I don't operate this way yet because my current TV doesn't have the appropriate inputs and outputs. But my thought for future would be to have a TV with enough inputs/outputs so that all the digital devices (cable/DVR, HD-DVD/Blueray, etc) would connect to the TV via HDMI and the TV could output digital audio (optical or digital coax) to the receiver. Will this never be the case?

Many TV's will not pass out 5.1 audio via the digital/optical output, if it's coming in through the HDMI. It will only output audio through that port if you are watching TV using the TV's tuner. What you do is connect the digital coax or optical output of the 3416 box right into your receiver.

Thanks for the feedback ak3883. I played around with connections with the optical digital cable and cable box itself. What I finally did was connect the digital cable from the box to the receiver as you suggested and change some setting on the box. I'm not sure exactly what I changed on the box but recall that when I tried it with whatever the default settings were on the box it didn't work. I watched The Sopranos last night in HD with digital surround. It was good!

Is this a DRM issue? One would think the TV makers would want people to migrate to having the TV, rather than the receiver, be the center of the home theater. I don't operate this way yet because my current TV doesn't have the appropriate inputs and outputs. But my thought for future would be to have a TV with enough inputs/outputs so that all the digital devices (cable/DVR, HD-DVD/Blueray, etc) would connect to the TV via HDMI and the TV could output digital audio (optical or digital coax) to the receiver. Will this never be the case?

Well receivers do that. You connect all your video and audio and they pass everything through one cable, upscaled, to the TV. I doubt TVs will ever replace receivers in this role. After all when you start having various kinds of audio being passed around (uncompressed, DD, DTS and so forth) it makes more sense to send them directly to what decodes them, the receiver, and only forward a high quality picture to the TV. That way the audio gets to the receiver untouched in 1 step, and the video gets to the TV either untouched (not decoded by the receiver) or upscaled in 2 steps (arguably one since not decoded).

If the TV was the hub, then the TV would need a built in receiver to decode all sorts of signals it can receive, in case you don't connect a receiver to it and it actually has to play it through the builtin speakers.

I agree with andydumi 100%. I would never want the TV to be the hub. That is what the AVR is designed to do, and TVs will likely never have the capacity to replace them. Besides that, a good receiver can send various signals to various places, for playback in different locations, watching two things at once, or recording one thing while watching another. I do strongly advocate having various video signals going directly to the monitor, to provide these flexibilities, and others, such as monitoring a source and the recording at the same time. This includes both HD and S-Vid connections from the AVR to the TV, and S-Vid and line audio connections from DVDRs and/or VCRs, directly to the TV, if the units provide a second set of outputs. I like maximum flexibility, and capability!

I agree with what both of you are saying. I'm not at all an expert here, but I was wondering whether DRM would prevent an A/V receiver from being an HDMI switcher, leaving it up to the TV to switch elements of "lesser importance," i.e. the audio.

But this is totally off the subject of this thread. So my apologies for hijacking it.

I agree with what both of you are saying. I'm not at all an expert here, but I was wondering whether DRM would prevent an A/V receiver from being an HDMI switcher, leaving it up to the TV to switch elements of "lesser importance," i.e. the audio.

But this is totally off the subject of this thread. So my apologies for hijacking it.


The new 16.35 firmware will allow HDMI switching by your AV reciever. I don't believe it is a DRM issue that you were having with your tv, simply that the tv manufactures probably assume that you wouldn't need to have audio output thru your tv's opical out port when you have it connect with HDMI. And frankly the others are right on. You should hook your box up to the reciever first and then out to the TV. Or do both seperatly.

Does anybody know if the 16.35 firmware is being rolled out into the Atlanta, GA market any time soon. I have to unplug and replug the HDMI cable everytime I turn on my lcd monitor because of the current firmware. Everything I read says 16.35 fixes this. I see from other posters that it is being updated but no one from any where here. Anybody?

Thanks,

Well receivers do that. You connect all your video and audio and they pass everything through one cable, upscaled, to the TV. I doubt TVs will ever replace receivers in this role. After all when you start having various kinds of audio being passed around (uncompressed, DD, DTS and so forth) it makes more sense to send them directly to what decodes them, the receiver, and only forward a high quality picture to the TV. That way the audio gets to the receiver untouched in 1 step, and the video gets to the TV either untouched (not decoded by the receiver) or upscaled in 2 steps (arguably one since not decoded).

If the TV was the hub, then the TV would need a built in receiver to decode all sorts of signals it can receive, in case you don't connect a receiver to it and it actually has to play it through the builtin speakers.


My two year old Philips LCD in the bedroom passes through the audio from HDMI quite perfectly. It passed the audio from my old upconverting DVD player and my DVR box without any hitches. I became spolied by it I guess. Normal stereo sound to Dolby Surround to DD5.1 all passed through untouched. I'm now looking for a larger TV for the den and it's hard to find one that still does that. It was a big dissapointment when I found the Bravia XBR3 didn't do that and almost turned me away until I found out most TVs don't either. The audio sounded just as perfect from passed through the tv as it did directly from the DVD player or DVR's digital out.

OK, me again.

To recap: I swapped my 3412 for a new box about a month ago because the DVR, well, went from buggy to near dead (having the erroneous 100% full messages, not taping shows, then not playing back shows, etc. etc.), and because I wanted the extra storage of a 3416.

VOD didn't work on the new box (wouldn't load an ip address, interactive status was inactive). After talking to 5 different CSRs at Comcast and getting 5 different responses, I followed the advice of the two most similar CSRs and swapped the box for a 2nd new box. After they tried to give me a 3412 and claiming that there's no difference between that and the 3416, I came home with a 2nd 3416.

This one loaded an IP address and seemed to work fine for 3 days, but then no ip address, no VOD.

Followed the advice of the forum and replaced my splitter with a Monster splitter, but still no go.

So . . . ,

Made an appointment for a home visit. Two guys came out. They replaced all the wiring, replaced the splitter with a new Comcast splitter, but still no VOD. They'd call the base, whose only recourse was to reboot the box, still no ip address.

Now I told every one of the several folks I talked to that this happened last year when I got a new box, and after several tries it turned out to be the wrong code in their system. These two techs thought the same thing, but every time they called the base they were sent a new reboot against their requests, and basically were hung up on.

They swapped my box for my 3d 3416 in a week, even though we thought it wouldn't solve the problem. The new box did acquire an ip address, and was getting VOD, so they went on their way although they acknowledged it might not stick. They gave me the number of their supervisor in case that happened.

Sure 'nuf, 4 days later no ip address, no VOD. I spoke to the supervisor and re-explained the situation. He agreed that this wasn't an issue with my box and would send out "Network" to look into it.

He called the next day to ask if it was working and I said no.

He called two days later to ask if it was working and I said no.

I called him a couple of days after that 'cause it still wasn't working and left a message.

Two days later he called to see if it was working. I checked and it was. This time I stopped getting channels I wasn't supposed to get, so I figured they finally worked it out. I asked him what the magic words were for the next time this happens. His response was that he doesn't know what they did, but he knows a certain dispatcher who knows what she's doing. He figured that it was a code issue on their end, but couldn't say for sure.

Although I happy with the service I eventually got, the summary of this whole affair is that most CSRs (including the ones at "base" who the techs call in to when they're at the house) only know how to do four things: Send a signal, send a reboot signal, tell you to replace your box, or make an appointment for you to miss work have some (more) techs come out to your house.

Has anyone had a problem with the audio cutting out when the channel is changed? I have the 3412-1 and am currently using the optical output to connect my B&K 307AVR. Comcast was just here and we swapped out the optical cable to no avail. We then changed to the digital co-ax into the B&K, same thing. We even tried using different optical inputs on the amp to no avail
The problem started about 6 months ago and has gotten progressively worse, to the point that it now happens every time I change the channel (particularly the digital music channels).
The sound at the RCA jacks connected from the box to the TV are not affected at all by changing the channel. The Comcast guy left here baffled after several calls back and forth to the office. He even spoke to one of the techs who was an "audio buff". He seemed to think it could have been a past firmware update that caused the problem. My current software version is 74.53-3321 and the firmware is 16-20. The tech said there is a new firmware update scheduled for April 25. I was told I'll be contacted by someone at Comcast sometime in the next 2 weeks.

Yeah, that happens to me every so often. Cycling the sounds system through its inputs fixes it.

Yeah, that happens to me every so often. Cycling the sounds system through its inputs fixes it.

Same here...

Although I happy with the service I eventually got, the summary of this whole affair is that most CSRs (including the ones at "base" who the techs call in to when they're at the house) only know how to do four things: Send a signal, send a reboot signal, tell you to replace your box, or make an appointment for you to miss work have some (more) techs come out to your house.

I'm going to have to completely agree with this for most CSRs. When I was having issues with a CableCard I called in numerous times but to no avail. They would just try to send me a new signal or tell me reboot it. One CSR kept on referring to the card as the box, as in just reboot the box until I called him out on it if he understood it was a CableCard, not a box. He then recommended that I set up an appointment for a tech to come out. I told him that was unnecessary and they should be able to fix it by phone. Another CSR was willing to help me but 2 minutes into the call just asked "By the way, what is a CableCard?", who's supervisor told him that if he sent a signal to the card it would fry it. That's when I laughed, explained to him what it was then hung up. Finally waited 45 minutes on the phone with the last CSR who also did not know anything but transfered me to her supervisor. She asked me for the a couple of numbers, ran a couple of tests and badabing.. it works. She stated all of the CSRs should be trained on it but I guess most still aren't. This was a year ordeal of finding the one who could actually help me.

The moral of this story is it might take many calls to Comcast to get any CSR or tech who knows what they are doing or who wants to help you. I love the 3416 in that even though it is buggy, it's still not as bad as my troubles with the CableCard.

The moral of this story is it might take many calls to Comcast to get any CSR or tech who knows what they are doing or who wants to help you.

I agree. Life in the 21st century means having to hang up on CSRs (not just Comcast) until your gut tells you that you finally found someone who has a clue.

The problem with Comcast, though, is that the first line CSRs are gatekeepers, and tend not to have access to the key to the vault, so to speak. So they put you on hold and contact someone else who may or may not know their splitter from a hole in the wall. It's hard to trust your gut when you can't participate in those conversations.

It was extremely disheartening to discover that the techs who come out to your house have to deal with the same cast of characters, but they don't even attempt to be curtious when dealing with the techs. They send the signal and hang up on them!