...
My picture was PERFECT, but dimmer. It is a sharp edged 16X9; no yellow or shadows, nothing, just a clean picture.
...


Thanks for the info. This is certainly one of the most interesting tidbits uncovered in this thread. I hope you find a satisfactory solution. :)

Just out of curiosity: when you say "dimmer", just how much dimmer would you say it is?

another joe from TX

TXJoe, what about that black screw you emaied me about ?
Any info on that ?

The menu changes when you feed the 4805 anything other than 480i. It seems like a menu more geared towards a PC input. W/ 480i you can adjust Sharpness, color, ect... and on the other formats it gives options to change Horizontal/Verticle, tracking, Phase ect...

Also yesterday 1080i seemed to be fine coming from the HD-STB... but today... when I change the YPbPr it flashes 1080 YPP OUT... all the others it holds a solid 720P or 480P or 480i. Not sure what that means AND... today the 1080i also got stuck on having a Green Tint that goes away when I switched it to 720P. I got that fixed after some time turning on and off the PJ and trying some other things then by Picture Re-adjust it somehow just went away. It seems like the 4805 doesn't like 1080i on my setup.

So I'm thinking there's some issue w/ 1080i.... which is no big deal, I guess, since I don't see much difference between 1080i & 720P.

Anyone know about the Menu change and also the 1080i problem?

Thanks,
RD

Russ D

If you change from SD to HD formats - you must hit "auto-image" on the remote. Firmware 1.13 fixes this issue.

However, if you change from 720p to 1080i and this green tint appears, then that is strange.

That was actually my post but was consolidated from earlier information posted by CAVU.

The 854x480x48Hz Custom DVI setting is best for film-based DVDs and uses all the pixels on the projector. (It eliminates 3:2 pulldown.)

The 852x480 "Gateway" setting you refer to is a 60Hz preset on the Bravo. It is excellent for video-based DVDs.

Bravos with early firmware did not provide a "Custom" option so this 852 pixel map was the best option, even though it left the outermost pixels black.

I switch between the preset and the custom setting on my D2 depending on the DVD I am playing.

I believe the 66/39 numbers are for a 7205. The 58/28.5 numbers are for the 4805.
thanks for the info,
whats the difference between the refresh rates 60 and 48? (btw, your custom settings indicate 48 hz but on my 4805 "about" menu it indicates 47 hz. Is that right?)

I noticed significant changes (mostly for the better) with these custom settings. The colors look more accurate, the picture looks cleaner both statically and in regards to motion(for some reason when I was on the 852x480 preset, I had trouble seeing what was going on in terms of movement onscreen or, lets say, a swooping camera move in a movie. Somehow it just wasnt fluid).

I was using the 66/39 rgb settings which I now realize was way too punchy so now the picture looks dimmer but more natural. The only problem though is in dark scenes; the detail is hard to make out. The picture looks so dim now that I cant see detail in a dark scene. Like if theres a shot of someones face and half his face is darkened in shadow except for the light reflecting off his eyes and small details; now I cant even see the eyes or the small details. In other words the picture seems shrouded in darkness. I dont mind any darkness in a scene so long as thats the natural look of the scene but when it comes to the point where you cant even make out the persons face onscreen it bothers me. Im thinking it wasnt an issue before because like i said, the preset setting was punchier and thus brighter since I was using the 7205 RGB settings.

Do I need to be projecting unto a brighter screen? (Im using a white wall). Im not using an NDfilter so during a bright scene its bright enough. Its just the details in dark scenes that Im losing.

One other question getting back to the custom DVI vs 852x480 60hz preset: DOes the preset setting pack a bigger punch in regards to resolution? It almost seems like this custom DVI setting is slightly softer picture than the preset (you mentioned the preset was for video-based and the custom was for film-based, I only watch movies on my pj thus always filmbased dvds). Am I just imagining this, or does the video preset somehow give off better resolution than the custom?

whats the difference between the refresh rates 60 and 48?The image refreshes either 60 or 48 times per second.

Films are shot at 24 frames per second, so refreshing at 48Hz simply shows each frame twice. Showing movie-based content at 60Hz means that some frames are shown 3 times and some frames are show twice, making for slightly choppy movement. This is called 3:2 Pulldown (http://www.dvdfile.com/news/special_report/production_a_z/3_2_pulldown.htm) and is avoided with the slower refresh rate.

Similarily, video is shot at 30 frames per second and 60Hz is perfectly suited to video.
your custom settings indicate 48 hz but on my 4805 "about" menu it indicates 47 hz.Yes ... the frame rate is actually 47.952 - it appears InFocus truncates the number instead of rounding it.I was using the 66/39 rgb settings which I now realize was way too punchy so now the picture looks dimmer but more natural.Leave it that way for a few days. You will become accustomed to the proper calibration soon and the other will seem "cartoony".Do I need to be projecting unto a brighter screen? I doubt it. How large is your screen? Have you used the THX Optimizer or DVE/AVIA to confirm your settings?DOes the preset setting pack a bigger punch in regards to resolution?No. The only real difference is the refresh rate (although the custom setting uses two additional columns of pixels)

Here are the parameters for a 72Hz refresh rate which is also setup for film-based DVDs (each frame is shown three times).

This "may" give a difference in "punch". It will cause the color wheel to change speed (relative to 48Hz) and this may change the perceived image.

Somewhere on one of these threads Bob Williams talked about color wheel speeds at different refresh rates.

Try these:854x480 DVI Custom Settings:
72Hz Horizontal Freq 36036 Vertical Freq 7193
Video Width 0854 Video Height 0480
HSyncTotal 1110 PreHSync 0044
HsyncActive 0128 PostHSync 0084
VSyncTotal 0501 PreVSync 0001
VSyncActive 0003 PostVSync 0017
HSyncPolarity 0000 VSyncPolarity 0000

Well my first pj and I am very pleased, for the $$$ this looks to be a really great projector for my home movie watching. The only problem I have seen is with the auto source and picture set up. On some films where the screen goes complete white like in a big explosion or when film makers put a white frame between scenes, the pj acts like when the source is first turned on. The screen goes blank and the box in the corner pops up and says 'setting up picture'. This was very bad when I tried to watch the film 'independence day' as there is a lot of white flashes between scenes.

I have turned off all sources apart from component in the options but can not find anything else in setup which would help.

Has anyone else had this problem or could be be a defect with my unit ;-(

Thanks,

Well my first pj and I am very pleased, for the $$$ this looks to be a really great projector for my home movie watching. The only problem I have seen is with the auto source and picture set up. On some films where the screen goes complete white like in a big explosion or when film makers put a white frame between scenes, the pj acts like when the source is first turned on. The screen goes blank and the box in the corner pops up and says 'setting up picture'. This was very bad when I tried to watch the film 'independence day' as there is a lot of white flashes between scenes.

I have turned off all sources apart from component in the options but can not find anything else in setup which would help.

Has anyone else had this problem or could be be a defect with my unit ;-(

Thanks,

In the advanced picture menu on the 4805, you can adjust the sync threshhold, try fooling around with that, should do the trick.

The menu changes when you feed the 4805 anything other than 480i. It seems like a menu more geared towards a PC input. W/ 480i you can adjust Sharpness, color, ect... and on the other formats it gives options to change Horizontal/Verticle, tracking, Phase ect...

Also yesterday 1080i seemed to be fine coming from the HD-STB... but today... when I change the YPbPr it flashes 1080 YPP OUT... all the others it holds a solid 720P or 480P or 480i. Not sure what that means AND... today the 1080i also got stuck on having a Green Tint that goes away when I switched it to 720P. I got that fixed after some time turning on and off the PJ and trying some other things then by Picture Re-adjust it somehow just went away. It seems like the 4805 doesn't like 1080i on my setup.

So I'm thinking there's some issue w/ 1080i.... which is no big deal, I guess, since I don't see much difference between 1080i & 720P.

Anyone know about the Menu change and also the 1080i problem?

Thanks,
RD

You can adjust sharpness and color/saturation at 480i since the 4805 is using it's Faroudja chip to deinterlace the picture. At 480p, 720p, and 1080i, no deinterlacing is needed and the options will not be available (if you're lucky, your stb box may have the settings for you to adjust available).

nihon25

First of all, GulfstreamDriver has given very good and accurate info based on your questions. I just wanted to add one thing:

With the 66/39 settings, you were viewing an image that was not calibrated and way too "bright." You were seeing way too much BTB detail and your whites were crushed. Although BTB detail exists, you were not meant to see it. So when you say that a face was darkened in a shadow - it is a good bet that you were probably not supposed to see those eyes in a shadow. That is why we have directors.

But if you tamper with the proper video levels, then this allows you to see things that you were not meant to see. Give it a couple weeks - you won't ever go back.

the knowledge base is worth listening to them blather on about the 1/10 of 1% improvement if you just do this

BLATHERING AAAH? Geeze I thought we keeping folks glued to their PC's for hourly updates on Jasons mythical numbers and the drama of Kras trying to explain Video DVI vs PC DVI levels for months on end.
I'm going to buy a CRT and stalk Jason again until I get his convergence secrets. :eek:


Somewhere on one of these threads Bob Williams talked about color wheel speeds at different refresh rates.

Here are Bobs comments on the issue:

"as with all features there are some tradeoffs. To preserve colorwheel life, for refresh rates of 62 Hz and higher the color wheel speed drops to 3x, so for instance at 72 Hz the color wheel is spinning at 3x or 6480 rpm. This is in between the speeds for 48 and 60 Hz. At 60 Hz it is spinning at 4x or 7200 rpm and at 48 Hz it spins at 4x or 5760 rpm.

Since the rainbow effect is related to total color refresh rate which is proportional to the color wheel rpm, then you should have the most at 48 Hz, less at 72 Hz, and the least at 60 Hz.

I recommend you use the mode that you like the best.

Welcome to the forum Gulfstreamdriver. You appear to know what your talking about...which is MUCH more important here that ACTUALLY knowing what you are talking about ;)

This is all a tremendous help. I am much happier with my viewing experience using these new setups.
Gulfstream driver, I just tried the 72 hz settings you posted. They certainly add more punch to the color from what I can tell and this in turn makes the overall picture detail somehow more visible. It helps the dark scene problem too. I think what I was trying to get at was that at the 48refresh rate, any darkness looks dead and voidlike , as if that part of the image is not projected by light. But with the 72 hz rate, that darkness looks somehow like it has depth and dimension. I used dark scenes from "Unbreakable" and "The Incredibles" dvds.

I was just curious what refresh rates all you guys use. Is there any advantage visually towards using the 48hz over 72hz? Does the pq or motion smoothness etc suffer from 3 frame refresh as opposed to two frame? I apologize in advance for these layman questions.

In any case I'm definitely set, RealGeno, on keeping the 58/28.5RGBs :)

also, I've been keeping the brightness and contrast levels on the 4805 at default (50). Now that I have the proper RGB settings, do I need to fool around with those levels? I just left them at factory setting in accordance with the custom DVI reccomendations for the bravo.

I just wanted to say...... I use the oppo with my 4805 and just watched 'THE CAVE'..... can I just say AMAZING!!! The movie was filmed with HD cameras and I think that this is one of the best looking DVD's I've seen. It looks like real HD on the 4805. In the special features there is a bit call "Into the Cave", it looked even better than the movie and was filmed also in HD, which is unheard of at least for me. I recommend this DVD for all 4805 lovers.

Forgive my "laziness", but reading through all 75 pages....uggh. :(


Is there any concensus on what Acoustically Transparent screen people like for the 4805?

I will be doing a curved 2.35 setup. Screen size will be 47.5"x111" or 47.5"x 84.4" in 16x9. Seating will be a (too) close 11' and decent 14'.

I can't afford Stewart's Cine Curve soution, nor the Screen Research ClearPix2 product.

That leaves Da Lite, Stewart's more earthly products, Dazian, or any other number of AT screens found in the DIY section.

One other quesiton:

Please correct me if I am wrong, but it is my understanding, for the best picture, I want the projector to shoot the SMALLEST possible zoomed picture, and then move the projector to get the desired height. Correct? IE, do not ZOOM the picture bigger with the zoom ring, rather zoom it with your feet to get the brightest, cleanest picture possible.

do not ZOOM the picture bigger with the zoom ringThe limited zoom range of the 4805 is completely within the "sweet spot" of the lens design. I suggest mounting your projector so that the zoom is in the center of its range for maximum flexibility.

I was just curious what refresh rates all you guys use. Is there any advantage visually towards using the 48hz over 72hz? Does the pq or motion smoothness etc suffer from 3 frame refresh as opposed to two frame? I apologize in advance for these layman questions.

In any case I'm definitely set, RealGeno, on keeping the 58/28.5RGBs :)

also, I've been keeping the brightness and contrast levels on the 4805 at default (50). Now that I have the proper RGB settings, do I need to fool around with those levels? I just left them at factory setting in accordance with the custom DVI reccomendations for the bravo.

I use 47.952 Hz - for whatever reason, I cannot get my 6600GT, even with powerstrip, to accept 71.928 Hz. I used 72Hz with my x700 pro. I do not notice any PQ difference with the two refresh rates; however, I did get smoother playback and smoother pans on my x700 pro with 72Hz. With my 6600GT, 48 Hz appears to be just fine.

You shouldn't have to touch your contrast/brightness controls with your current RGB settings - those are perfect with the D1. I believe Oppo users have to slightly adjust their players with these settings.

The limited zoom range of the 4805 is completely within the "sweet spot" of the lens design. I suggest mounting your projector so that the zoom is in the center of its range for maximum flexibility.

This may be true, but, correct me if i am wrong. Most Horizontal expansion (HE) anamorphic lens will perform better with a throw ratio of 2 or greater. I believe the 4805 has a max throw of 2.13. I've set my 4805 to utilize the max throw with a little zoom left for tweaking. With the prismasonic anamorphic lens the image coming out of the 4805 lens just fits through the anamorphic lens. If the image was any larger at the 4805 lens I think it my get clipped by the sides of the anamorphic lens. This is something that you will need to test before mounting the PJ permanently.

I use 47.952 Hz - for whatever reason, I cannot get my 6600GT, even with powerstrip, to accept 71.928 Hz. I used 72Hz with my x700 pro. I do not notice any PQ difference with the two refresh rates; however, I did get smoother playback and smoother pans on my x700 pro with 72Hz. With my 6600GT, 48 Hz appears to be just fine.



Heh.... I CANNOT get my 5700 to show the "Advanced Timing" button when on the 4805, no matter what I try. Since I only watch film and rarely if ever video, I'd love to just manually set the Nvidia drivers to Jasons settings and forget it. I've tried the 77.77 drivers and the 71.84 drivers and no luck with iether. ??

Also... I was reading in powerstrip where most cards need Hpixels in multiples of 8. That explains why most cards won't do 854 but will do 848 and 856. I tried 856 and the card took it, but the 4805 didn't like it one bit. :)

-W


-W

Most Horizontal expansion (HE) anamorphic lens will perform better with a throw ratio of 2 or greater. I believe the 4805 has a max throw of 2.13. I've set my 4805 to utilize the max throw with a little zoom left for tweaking. With the prismasonic anamorphic lens the image coming out of the 4805 lens just fits through the anamorphic lens.
Ditto that. I finally followed in Willys footsteps and built a 2:35 set up a few early 2:35 pics (http://gallery.avsforum.com/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=7474255) and I am configured in that manner.
I was just curious what refresh rates all you guys use. Is there any advantage visually towards using the 48hz over 72hz? Does the pq or motion smoothness etc suffer from 3 frame refresh as opposed to two frame?
I loved the look of 72hz but can never get Nvidias drivers to "stick" with the proper settings and I get tired of fooling with it. Powerstrip will most likely fix it but I'm in minamilistic mode at the moment and am not running it. I could never see any really difference with my rig and a 6800 card between 48 and 60 so I just stick with 60 for video vs film reasons.
Heh.... I CANNOT get my 5700 to show the "Advanced Timing" button when on the 4805, no matter what I try. Since I only watch film and rarely if ever video
Clams, to my knowledge...which is growing fuzzier as the game time approaches, the 5700s can not do that regardless of the drivers....hardware was just not ready for it yet.
I will be doing a curved 2.35 setup. Screen size will be 47.5"x111" or 47.5"x 84.4" in 16x9. Seating will be a (too) close 11' and decent 14'.
Stima I wanted to do that SO bad but gave in to plain old flat. PLEASE keep me posted here or over on the 235 thread to your progress.....

Gulfstream, Brian, Willy:

Thanks for the feedback. Just because I am WAY over analyzing things, let me make 100% certian I understand.

What does the image look like at the two different throw ratios:1.77/1 compared to 2.13/1. When the pj is "zoomed" is the picture BIGGER or SMALLER than when it is NOT zoomed? Thus, zoomed\big=1.77/1 and unzoomed\small=2.13/1???

It really comes down to symantecs and as Willy and Brian both know from the 235 threads, I will also have the HE lens and want to keep the throw ratio above 2.

Gulfstream, Brian, Willy:

Thanks for the feedback. Just because I am WAY over analyzing things, let me make 100% certian I understand.

What does the image look like at the two different throw ratios:1.77/1 compared to 2.13/1. When the pj is "zoomed" is the picture BIGGER or SMALLER than when it is NOT zoomed? Thus, zoomed\big=1.77/1 and unzoomed\small=2.13/1???

It really comes down to symantecs and as Willy and Brian both know from the 235 threads, I will also have the HE lens and want to keep the throw ratio above 2.

The way you are referring to zoom and unzoomed is the way i'm referring to it also. From were my PJ is located I can get a larger image by zooming but a can only reduce the image size very little. I wanted a little wiggle room for tweaking.

COOL! Thanks! :cool:

So, now on to the other pesky question:

What do 4805 people use for Acoustically Transparent screens? :p

This is all a tremendous help. I am much happier with my viewing experience using these new setups.
Gulfstream driver, I just tried the 72 hz settings you posted. They certainly add more punch to the color from what I can tell and this in turn makes the overall picture detail somehow more visible. It helps the dark scene problem too. I think what I was trying to get at was that at the 48refresh rate, any darkness looks dead and voidlike , as if that part of the image is not projected by light. But with the 72 hz rate, that darkness looks somehow like it has depth and dimension. I used dark scenes from "Unbreakable" and "The Incredibles" dvds.

I was just curious what refresh rates all you guys use. Is there any advantage visually towards using the 48hz over 72hz? Does the pq or motion smoothness etc suffer from 3 frame refresh as opposed to two frame? I apologize in advance for these layman questions.

In any case I'm definitely set, RealGeno, on keeping the 58/28.5RGBs :)

also, I've been keeping the brightness and contrast levels on the 4805 at default (50). Now that I have the proper RGB settings, do I need to fool around with those levels? I just left them at factory setting in accordance with the custom DVI reccomendations for the bravo.


Once you get 48Hz studder/jutter/jitter free for perfect film rate - you cannot go back to 60Hz 2-3 video butchered films. no way. You will never be able to watch a normal TV again. Obtaining that goal is more difficult than it seems - and is indeed a sub-hobby of HTPC perfection - some have spent years chasing that last stutter per minute they found annoying.

Lowering the bandwidth to the DMD will improve DLP artifacts of spatial/motion dithering. While Bob's post indicated 72Hz was inbetween 48Hz and 60Hz for colorwheel spin rate - he did not say which had the lower DMD refresh rate - but I would suspect 48Hz is your best.

Lowering the bandwidth to the DMD will improve DLP artifacts of spatial/motion dithering. While Bob's post indicated 72Hz was inbetween 48Hz and 60Hz for colorwheel spin rate - he did not say which had the lower DMD refresh rate - but I would suspect 48Hz is your best.

So then showing each frame twice at 48hz rather than thrice at 72hz allows for better motion? Why then did RealGeno see smoother playback using the 72HZ?

While playing a DVD with AC3 sound (DTS/DD) on HTPC, can the soundcard (which is equipped with either optical or co-axial SPDIF out) pass thru the AC3 information to the HT receiver?
In other words is it absolutly necessary to have DDL support on the sound card for it to send the DD/DTS to the receiver?

Geno are you still using Jasons original powerstrip numbers to get 48 on your 6600?

Here is a quote from Bob Williams over in the new IF76 thread regarding zoom...not SURE if the same applies to the 4805 but I'm sure some one will instantly let me know if it does not..... :o

The lens has a variable f-number, as pretty much all lenses in projectors in this price class do. What this means is that, similar to camera lenses, for maximum contrast and best focus the picture should be at its smallest, but for maximum brightness the picture should be at its largest.

In the advanced picture menu on the 4805, you can adjust the sync threshhold, try fooling around with that, should do the trick.

Hey, many thanks, I lowered the sync threshold as you recommended and the problem stopped. Cant thank you enough ;-) cheers! :)

Mark

SBowl looked wonderful on my 4805, HD cable an Optoma 92" Greyscreen!

Here is a quote from Bob Williams over in the new IF76 thread regarding zoom...not SURE if the same applies to the 4805 but I'm sure some one will instantly let me know if it does not..... :o

Oh no - max brightness - max contrast? You could be up all nite on this one! Which is better #1 or #2?

SBowl looked wonderful on my 4805, HD cable an Optoma 92" Greyscreen!


All I can say - those refs were certainly not watching the game on a HD display....

Here is a quote from Bob Williams over in the new IF76 thread regarding zoom...not SURE if the same applies to the 4805 but I'm sure some one will instantly let me know if it does not..... :o

As an vision applications engineer, I can also offer this tid bit:

I do the same with vari-focal lenses: Open up the f-stop for focusing, then close it back up and play with the shutter speed to get the correct brightness.

Therefore, when focusing, your best bet is to have the brightest and largest picture possible. Once you have focused that image, lower the brightness and pull the image back down to the desired size.

All I can say - those refs were certainly not watching the game on a HD display....

Quite a few questionable calls. However, the Seattle coaching staff andd quaterback squarely lost that game. I feel sorry for all the other players. :(

mboy SBowl looked wonderful on my 4805, HD cable an Optoma 92" Greyscreen!

I was hoping to watch the game in HD, had to watch the whole game at SD, I called cox to ask what was wrong the reply was the techs were working on it. They never did send the HD signal through. Oh well, have to wait next season.

Fred

that's exactly why I put up an OTA antenna and get all my locals HD content for free. Just fed up with the Sats and Cable BS when it comes to being consistent. Rather unfortunate that they could not have sent it for you for the big game. I would have been quite angry. Everyone viewing it on my 4805 on HCCV was floored. I switched back to SD to show them the difference and it was said to be like night and day. Hope you get to see it in HD next year. Good luck.

BTW - All OTA antennas in my area were sold out (RS, BB, CC etc.). Most people end up having to purchase an indoor one in my area which is about 45 miles from the towers and many said they were able to pull it in without much problem. Not sure of your setup (i.e. if you have an ATSC capable STB) and your distance and what your locals do for HD but that might have been an option. From Ocala you probably stand a chance of getting good signal from Bithlo (where I got it from) or Tampa.

I'm about 90 miles from Atlanta GA and 45 miles from Greenville SC. My OTA signals leave a bit to be desired. If I put up a decent antenna I might do better, looking at my pathetic antenna installation, you'd never guess I was an Extra class Ham operator type geek :D

-W

As an vision applications engineer, I can also offer this tid bit:

I do the same with vari-focal lenses: Open up the f-stop for focusing, then close it back up and play with the shutter speed to get the correct brightness.

Therefore, when focusing, your best bet is to have the brightest and largest picture possible. Once you have focused that image, lower the brightness and pull the image back down to the desired size.


I could swear that my focus differs slightly between max zoom and no zoom. If I go from the smallest image possible to largest, I have to refocus a little to get the pixel grid as sharp.

Can someone who has set-up an nvidia card for pixel mapping using Powerstrip post a picture of this screen:

http://www.brooklynhoods.com/settings.gif

I've seen DGP's settings in the FAQ, but I'd like to make sure I have plugged them in correctly (this is a shot of the default settings for my PC, not my attempt to get 854 x 480 to work with the 4805).

Thanks,

Dan

Better yet do it WITHOUT powerstrip for BONUS points and a trip to Disney World!

Better yet do it WITHOUT powerstrip for BONUS points and a trip to Disney World!
Wow, that's tempting... :) I have been doing it until now without Powerstrip (that is to say, 848 x 480 at 60hz) but that nasty OCD bug has hit. I'd like to see what 854 x 480 at 42hz looks like. I admire your stance against obsessive tweaking Brian... but the urge is just too strong... Resistance is futile... :o

I've had my refurb 4805 exactly 4 weeks today. About 20 minutes in to using it this afternoon it made the dreaded color wheel buzz saw noise for about a minute and then stopped. Of course I called infocus right away (I only get a 90 day warranty on this), but they want me to send it to KY and that just seems like a terrible hassle. Should I:

1) Just do it, go through projector withdrawal and hope they fix it?
2) Ignore it? It did only happen once for one minute.
3) Ask Infocus politely if they will swap it for another one instead?

My concern is that if I send it in they're going to say "we didn't hear the problem" and send it back without fixing it. Of course then I would have a leg to stand on after the 90 day warranty has expired saying "I sent it in under warranty and you didn't fix it".

What do you guys think?

I finally followed in Willys footsteps and built a 2:35 set up a few early 2:35 pics (http://gallery.avsforum.com/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=7474255) and I am configured in that manner.

Brian, I'm sorry to see that you wimped out and didn't go for the 144"wide version :p

One other thing, go easy on that dark colored script, it makes it tough on us guys using the
"AVS Dark Theater" thread mode. ;)

looks like I hit the jackpot here.
Quick story. I run a 9 hole municipal golf course and am changing the concession area around to meet the requirements of selling alcohol. Being a techno geek, I'm thinking of all the things to make it cool to sit and drink a beer. I have area above the bar to put a screen up and was looking for a projector that would fit my budget.

Heres the problem. The room in which it will be sitting has plenty of indirect outside light because of numerous windows. I'm curious on how well this projector will do with the indirect light. The sun would never be shining into the shop from any direction. It is possible to get shades for the windows but they wouldn't look to well in the area.

I would think it would look a little washed out but didn't know how bad. Any thoughts on how you guys think it would do in such a situation would be appreciated.

looks like I hit the jackpot here.
Quick story. I run a 9 hole municipal golf course and am changing the concession area around to meet the requirements of selling alcohol. Being a techno geek, I'm thinking of all the things to make it cool to sit and drink a beer. I have area above the bar to put a screen up and was looking for a projector that would fit my budget.

Heres the problem. The room in which it will be sitting has plenty of indirect outside light because of numerous windows. I'm curious on how well this projector will do with the indirect light. The sun would never be shining into the shop from any direction. It is possible to get shades for the windows but they wouldn't look to well in the area.

I would think it would look a little washed out but didn't know how bad. Any thoughts on how you guys think it would do in such a situation would be appreciated.

How bright are natural light sources?

http://stjarnhimlen.se/comp/radfaq.html#10

ftL ~ nits/3.4

Or in otherwords to overcome a heavy overcast rainy day which is a very dark 100 nits - it is quite possible to do with a small Vutec SilverStar. But few play golf then - so you need 100x that bright to deal with sunshine.

Forget about it...go spend money on a plasma.

Damn I don't know the exact number of the brightness of the room. Thx tho. I know I could go buy a 42" ED Plasma for $1200-$1400 and I guess that would put a wow factor to the area as well.
Was just thinkin it would be neat to have. Well maybe I'll just go buy it a CC and try it and if it doesn't work I can always return it.

If you have ambiant light issues, get an X2 instead. Sacrifice a little quality for a lot more punch. IMHO

-W

While playing a DVD with AC3 sound (DTS/DD) on HTPC, can the soundcard (which is equipped with either optical or co-axial SPDIF out) pass thru the AC3 information to the HT receiver?
In other words is it absolutly necessary to have DDL support on the sound card for it to send the DD/DTS to the receiver?

Yes. My cheap SB 5.1 passes 5.1 to my HT receiver.

Wazzey,

Also look at the sp5000. It is a 720p lcd projector that is probably better suited for a room with ambient light since it has a much higher lumen output then the 4805.

Question regarding projector light beam interferance:

Question regarding projector light beam interference:

All is there a formula (or how to I figure out) the area the light from a project occupies in a room. Let me phrase with an example. The project is 15' back what is the height and width of the beam at any given point before it hits the screen so I know where to position furniture etc.

Now that I am thinking about it - simple geometry? Rise vs Run

Yep "simple" geometry. ;)

Easiest thing however is just get some string and go from the lens (or planned position to the edge of the screen).

I will try and figure out the "simple" geometry and post back.

Question for those with hdmi connection,
where did the letter box aspect ratio option
on the 4805 go?I recently went from a component
connection to HDMI from my Pioneer 59 avi dvd
player to the IF 4805 and now that option does not
appear when I scroll thru aspect ratios.
Native,16:9,4:3 are still there but no letterbox.
Was thinking of going CH with a anamorphic lens
for 2.35:1 but I will need letterbox to do that.
T.I.A.

Question for those with hdmi connection,
where did the letter box aspect ratio option
on the 4805 go?I recently went from a component
connection to HDMI from my Pioneer 59 avi dvd
player to the IF 4805 and now that option does not
appear when I scroll thru aspect ratios.
Native,16:9,4:3 are still there but no letterbox.
Was thinking of going CH with a anamorphic lens
for 2.35:1 but I will need letterbox to do that.
T.I.A.

Letterbox was added to the DVI/HDMI with the 1.13 firmware. If you are using the old firmware, then you need to update. I have the option for DVI with my oppo (should be the same with hdmi).

Question for those with hdmi connection,
where did the letter box aspect ratio option
on the 4805 go?I recently went from a component
connection to HDMI from my Pioneer 59 avi dvd
player to the IF 4805 and now that option does not
appear when I scroll thru aspect ratios.
Native,16:9,4:3 are still there but no letterbox.
Was thinking of going CH with a anamorphic lens
for 2.35:1 but I will need letterbox to do that.
T.I.A.

What version of Firmware are you running? I believe 1.13 addresses this issue but you could have issues with light flicker with it. Check out the FAQ section for the 4805. There is a section on firmware that explains what each versions changes are.

Goodluck

L

Can someone who has set-up an nvidia card for pixel mapping using Powerstrip post a picture of this screen:

I've seen DGP's settings in the FAQ, but I'd like to make sure I have plugged them in correctly (this is a shot of the default settings for my PC, not my attempt to get 854 x 480 to work with the 4805).

Thanks,

Dan

If you take DGP's timing parameters (ie the first set of numbers), simply copy them from notepad and then simply click on the clipboard icon. This enters a user preset.

Then, click on Custom Resolutions, select "User Defined" and you will see your 848x480. Click on that and "poof" you will be at 848x480-47.952Hz. I cannot get my NVidia to sync with 71.928 - it always defaults to 71.930.

BTW, if you are not noticing any stuttering, then the 48Hz probably won't do anything PQ wise - it really only helps with smooth playback.

If you want, you could try one of the application defined resolutions - I believe there is one that is 848x480-59.94Hz.

Hope this helps.

Unfortunately, I cannot post a pic for you right now. I will try later.

Yep "simple" geometry. ;)

Easiest thing however is just get some string and go from the lens (or planned position to the edge of the screen).

I will try and figure out the "simple" geometry and post back.

Stima - I think I got it. I just needed to talk it out. I used a simple rise vs run since the projector offset wouldn't be important in this case I used a right angle triangle from the 'lens' to the 'bottom' of the screen. So it went something like this:

height for screen + distance to ceiling (center of lens) = 68"

Distance to lens = 180"

Then used a ratio to figure out the height drop at any given point - ie: @ 24" from lens the beam drops 9.06"

Does that look right?

The string is a great idea also it provide a more visual guide I am going to use that tonight.

Question regarding projector light beam interferance:

Question regarding projector light beam interference:

All is there a formula (or how to I figure out) the area the light from a project occupies in a room. Let me phrase with an example. The project is 15' back what is the height and width of the beam at any given point before it hits the screen so I know where to position furniture etc.

Now that I am thinking about it - simple geometry? Rise vs Run


Damn, I went and drummed up all those old trig forumulas before figuring out this is a lot easier than it looks.

Given the projectors throw ratio, you can determine the distance it needs to be by how big a picture you want. Once you know how big the picture is and how far back you are, the forumula to find the beam width is not even trigonomic...simply algebraic.

y1/x1=y2/x2 Solving for y2, y2=x2(y1/x1)

For example, at 15 feet (x1) the beam (image) is 5 feet (y1) from center to edge. So, at 5 feet (x2), the beam (image) is 5(5/15) = 1.67 feet.

Hope this makes sense. :)

Damn, I went and drummed up all those old trig forumulas before figuring out this is a lot easier than it looks.

Given the projectors throw ratio, you can determine the distance it needs to be by how big a picture you want. Once you know how big the picture is and how far back you are, the forumula to find the beam width is not even trigonomic...simply algebraic.

y1/x1=y2/x2 Solving for y2, y2=x2(y1/x1)

For example, at 15 feet (x1) the beam (image) is 5 feet (y1) from center to edge. So, at 5 feet (x2), the beam (image) is 5(5/15) = 1.67 feet.

Hope this makes sense. :)


Yup makes sense. Thanks for your help! I made it in a to a huge math problem also with screen offset etc. I drew it out and realized it was pretty easy.

I enjoy doing a little math every so often - makes the brain work.

If you take DGP's timing parameters (ie the first set of numbers), simply copy them from notepad and then simply click on the clipboard icon. This enters a user preset.

Then, click on Custom Resolutions, select "User Defined" and you will see your 848x480. Click on that and "poof" you will be at 848x480-47.952Hz. I cannot get my NVidia to sync with 71.928 - it always defaults to 71.930.

BTW, if you are not noticing any stuttering, then the 48Hz probably won't do anything PQ wise - it really only helps with smooth playback.

If you want, you could try one of the application defined resolutions - I believe there is one that is 848x480-59.94Hz.

Hope this helps.

Unfortunately, I cannot post a pic for you right now. I will try later.
Thanks once again Geno -- no need to post a picture. This is very clear. Dan

mboy SBowl looked wonderful on my 4805, HD cable an Optoma 92" Greyscreen!

I was hoping to watch the game in HD, had to watch the whole game at SD, I called cox to ask what was wrong the reply was the techs were working on it. They never did send the HD signal through. Oh well, have to wait next season.

Fred

The cable company should give you a huge discount of this month's bill (like free) for that performance. Call and complain!

Anyone using DVI output from a Motorola 62XX HD Cable box? I am trying to use the DVI output from my Moto 6200 and I always get the "HDCP ERROR use the Component output" or if I am able to get to go through the PQ is dark and no where as good as the Component output. Any thoughts?

Brian, I'm sorry to see that you wimped out and didn't go for the 144"wide version

One other thing, go easy on that dark colored script, it makes it tough on us guys using the
"AVS Dark Theater" thread mode.

Ran out of speaker room on the wall and had to settle for a whimpy 122" wide. Time to build a new house I guess.

Sorry for the psycho colors...they are really pretty in the white motif. :cool:

Yes. My cheap SB 5.1 passes 5.1 to my HT receiver.

Thanks for the confirmation SensFan.

Do you know or have any experience about this (http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=A-8768-8C-N&cat=SND) card.

BTW, I had responded to your PM

Thanks again..

Question regarding projector light beam interferance:

Question regarding projector light beam interference:

All is there a formula (or how to I figure out) the area the light from a project occupies in a room. Let me phrase with an example. The project is 15' back what is the height and width of the beam at any given point before it hits the screen so I know where to position furniture etc.

Now that I am thinking about it - simple geometry? Rise vs Run


Just use the Infocus install spreadsheets. If you use Excel - it has a feature called Goal Seek that you use to work spreadsheets backwards. Just enter your throw to the point in the room you want to know about - it will give you all the info to install a "screen" there. If there is furniture or a beam where the "screen" should go - you have a problem.

If you need to satisfy multiple constraints - then you have to copy the spreadsheet and iterate amongst different solutions. Recently had to satisfy a center channel and soffit drop constraint - not fun!

Just use the Infocus install spreadsheets.


??? Where do you find these? I Google'd several combinations and didn't really find anything. :confused:

Help! Does anyone have any idea or has this happened to anyone. I came home today and turned on the 4805 and NO PICTURE! When I switched to M1 input the HTPC worked fine. I went through basic troubleshooting procedures and have determined that composite video works, s-video works, M1 video works, component does not work. I have checked the cables. I have gone through the setup menus and component is turned on and assigned. I have reset the projector to factory defaults and still no component video. Has anyone seen this problem before? I fear a trip to Infocus is all that will fix this unless I am missing something. Thanks for any help you might be able to give me.

Chuck

PS: Component has been working fine since I got the projector, it was working last night and on Sunday for the Super Bowl.

??? Where do you find these? I Google'd several combinations and didn't really find anything. :confused:

http://www.infocus.com/service/sp4805/resources.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&

Help! Does anyone have any idea or has this happened to anyone. I came home today and turned on the 4805 and NO PICTURE! When I switched to M1 input the HTPC worked fine. I went through basic troubleshooting procedures and have determined that composite video works, s-video works, M1 video works, component does not work. I have checked the cables. I have gone through the setup menus and component is turned on and assigned. I have reset the projector to factory defaults and still no component video. Has anyone seen this problem before? I fear a trip to Infocus is all that will fix this unless I am missing something. Thanks for any help you might be able to give me.

Chuck

PS: Component has been working fine since I got the projector, it was working last night and on Sunday for the Super Bowl.

Try another component source.

??? Where do you find these? I Google'd several combinations and didn't really find anything. :confused:

Here (http://www.infocus.com/service/sp4805/resources.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&)

Try another component source.

Did that. I have 3 sources, 2 directv, 1 hdtv tuner. None worked. I went direct from all 3 one at a time bypassing the componenet switcher in the AVR.

My setup was working fine (have SA 8300HD DVR) and the other day while playing with various output combinations I managed to make the 4805 only work correctly with the 1080i output of the DVR. Anything else (480p, 480i, 720p which I was using mostly before) and the picture (especially on 720p) is tremendously darker and unusable. Set back to 1080i (for SD or HD content) and everything is fine. DVD's play fine in either 480i or 480p.

What's odd is that before "playing" w/ the output settings on the box, everything was working great on 720p; now I can't get 720p to work correctly, nor 480i/p, it does show a picture but it's very dark and almost solarized.

Any ideas? Think it's a bad cable box?

Ran out of speaker room on the wall and had to settle for a whimpy 122" wide. Time to build a new house I guess.

Sorry for the psycho colors...they are really pretty in the white motif. :cool:
Sounds like a job for an acoustically transparent screen. It's cheaper than building a new house :)

Colors are cool, it just helps a bit if use the brighter end of the spectrum. ;)

Did that. I have 3 sources, 2 directv, 1 hdtv tuner. None worked. I went direct from all 3 one at a time bypassing the componenet switcher in the AVR.

And I'm assuming the problem still persists after restarting the projector a few times.... Is the 4805 detecting anything at all over component? Does the OSD at the bottom left trying to sync onto anything at all? Or does it just stay static with "Video"? Try going into the advanced picture menu and mess with the sync threshold setting and see if it does anything.

Any ideas? Think it's a bad cable box?
Unplug the 8300 for half an hour. Plug it back in and then use the 8300's setup wizard to reconfigure the output settings of the box.

Thanks for the links. GREAT peice of software.

Thanks for the confirmation SensFan.

Do you know or have any experience about this (http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=A-8768-8C-N&cat=SND) card.

BTW, I had responded to your PM

Thanks again..


I do not but my assumption is that it should work fine seeing that it has an SPDIF out.

This was probably already covered someplace, so if it was, please link me to one of the billionth 4805 pages.

Ok so I’m having some problems with my aspect ratio and subtitles. I'd say about 50% of the films I watch are foreign subtitled films. The problem arises when films are shot in 1:85, or a similar ratio. The projector projects it as 16:9 obviously, so there are no bars. On most of the DVDs, the subtitles appear partially on the bottom of the image, and partially in the black bars, so when watching a film in regular widescreen mode on my 106" screen, I’m missing a full row of dialogue, or half it is getting cut off. The only way I found to correct this problem is to put the projector in native mode. This greatly reduces the image size however, and doesn't seem like the quality is as good.

I'm thinking that this can't be corrected, as it’s mostly a DVD problem opposed to a projector issue, but is there anything that can be done, or does anyone have any suggestions?

This was probably already covered someplace, so if it was, please link me to one of the billionth 4805 pages.

Ok so I’m having some problems with my aspect ratio and subtitles. I'd say about 50% of the films I watch are foreign subtitled films. The problem arises when films are shot in 1:85, or a similar ratio. The projector projects it as 16:9 obviously, so there are no bars. On most of the DVDs, the subtitles appear partially on the bottom of the image, and partially in the black bars, so when watching a film in regular widescreen mode on my 106" screen, I’m missing a full row of dialogue, or half it is getting cut off. The only way I found to correct this problem is to put the projector in native mode. This greatly reduces the image size however, and doesn't seem like the quality is as good.

I'm thinking that this can't be corrected, as it’s mostly a DVD problem opposed to a projector issue, but is there anything that can be done, or does anyone have any suggestions?

Yeah, it is a problem with the DVD. Some dvd players allow you to adjust the position of the subtitles and some utilize their own zoom/aspect ratio mode that doesn't reposition the subtitles. I believe the Panasonic S97 (or S77) player have subtitle position adjustments and the Oppo 971 player has its own zoom that doesn't affect the subtitles (its zoom however, is not too great).

And I'm assuming the problem still persists after restarting the projector a few times.... Is the 4805 detecting anything at all over component? Does the OSD at the bottom left trying to sync onto anything at all? Or does it just stay static with "Video"? Try going into the advanced picture menu and mess with the sync threshold setting and see if it does anything.

Yes, restarted numerous times. It does not detect anything over component, just OSD at the bottom left. It does not try to sync at all.I saw the sync threshold and brought it down to 1 (it was at 50). I am going to give Infocus a call today and see what they have to say.

Time to send it in I'm afraid.

-W

Yes, restarted numerous times. It does not detect anything over component, just OSD at the bottom left. It does not try to sync at all.I saw the sync threshold and brought it down to 1 (it was at 50). I am going to give Infocus a call today and see what they have to say.

I had this issue after the Super bowl. I had taken the unit to a friends house, When I put it back up and turned it on Same issue nothing on component. Did all the things you tried nothing. So then I thought this projector probably has a power reset so I unplugged the unit from the wall for 30min and when I plugged it back in everthing worked again. Not saying it will fix your problem but hey it's worth a shot.

Good Luck,

So I've had my 4805 for about a year now. I only have 350 hours on the unit.

Yesterday I turned it on and the fan came on really really loud, and no image on the screen. I turned it off, waited a bit turned it back on, and it did it again. Turned it off again, waited and this time when I turned it on it worked fine.

anyone have this happen before?

Thanks!
D

So I've had my 4805 for about a year now. I only have 350 hours on the unit.

Yesterday I turned it on and the fan came on really really loud, and no image on the screen. I turned it off, waited a bit turned it back on, and it did it again. Turned it off again, waited and this time when I turned it on it worked fine.

anyone have this happen before?

Thanks!
D


Yup, happened to me last Friday. I turned it off, and back on and it was fine - hasn't done it since. I've had mine for about 6 months ~150 hours.

Hi everyone-

It's been over 6 months and I'm still having problems getting the HTPC to work over HDMI to M1.
ANY help is greatly appreciated as this has been quite frustrating.

I'm trying to hook up my HTPC (P4 3.0 with Nvidia 6600) to my IF 4805. I have a soffet without much room between it and the walls and have to use HDMI on one end of the cable as the DVI is too large to fit. I'm trying to use an HDMI cable that has DVI on one end of it. (ie. HTPC > DVI out > DVI head > HDMI cable > HDMI head > HDMI to M1 adapter > 4805)

I've bought every adapter and cable possible.
I now have these adapters: DVI to M1, HDMI to M1 (I have 2 of these...one from Ebay and one from Monoprice), and HDMI to DVI
I have these cables: DVI to HDMI (25 ft), DVI to DVI (6 ft), HDMI to HDMI (6 ft)

I also went out and bought a DVD player that supports HDMI out.

I've tried this numerous times...the Home Theater PC with DVI out > DVI cable with HDMI end > HDMI to M1 > 4805 - Didn't work (same thing...changed the 4805 to computer setting and nothing happened...I went into my NVIDIA multi display setup wizard and it recognized both my Dell 15" front end monitor for the HTPC and the projector and showed it as "IF 4805-D"...So somehow the computer recognizes that there's a 4805 projector at the end of the cable, but it's not displaying anything)

I tried DVD Player > HDMI out > HDMI cable > HDMI to M1 adapter > 4805 - Didn't work (I changed the setting to computer on the 4805 and nothing happened...black screen)

Then I tried the HTPC DVI out > DVI cable with HDMI end > HDMI to DVI adapter > 17" DVI computer monitor - This Worked.

I tried DVD player > HDMI out > HDMI cable > HDMI to DVI adapter > DVI supported computer monitor - didn't work.

I also tried hooking up my Motorola 6412 HDTV cable box using the DVI out > DVI cable with HDMI end > HDMI to M1 adapter > 4805. (I received an HDCP error message)

So based on this, I know that the 25 ft DVI and HDMI cable works as I can get a signal from the HTPC to a 17" monitor.
I've tried 2 different HDMI to M1 adapters and neither of them seem to get a signal from the HTPC or DVD player to the 4805, but the computer recognizes that the 4805 is at one end.

Please help!!!!!!!

Thanks,
Jarrad

Is anyone here using a DVI dual output adapter. I just purchaed and LCD, HP LC2600N fabolous I must add, and I am looking to run my HTPC to the LCD and my 4805. I just purchased a 2 X 1 DVI/HDMI Switcher from Maraket.com but trying to Output DVI from my Moto HD Cablebox to the 4805 has been very problematic. I am thinking of selling it to get this Dual output DVI adapter. So if anyone has a source "that works good" I would really appreciate.

Update: 3 weeks after thorough cleaning, my projector is now buzz free. It was buzzing regularly at startup prior to cleaning. It was immediately much better after cleaning, only buzz occurred at about 10 minutes into operation for about 10 seconds. This lasted for about a week.

For over a week now its been perfect...

So my deduction is that this must be heat related anomoly as I don't think there could be enough dust getting into the bearing to cause this...and I doubt it would self clean. I had let the filters get almost 75% clogged and the operating temperature must have shot up, probably changed the viscosity and allowed bearing to rub...I surmise that now its reseated and lubricant is working at correct temperature.

So, my experience, keep the PJ internals clean to keep the buzzing to a minimum.

Have about 2100 hours on it, just took off the ND2, nice perk in brightness, picutre still looks as good as day I bought it.

Quite a few questionable calls. However, the Seattle coaching staff andd quaterback squarely lost that game.
Agree about the coaching - disagree about the quarterback. He made some great passes that would have kept them in the game if they hadn't been dropped or called back due to penalties.

Is anyone here using a DVI dual output adapter. I just purchaed and LCD, HP LC2600N fabolous I must add, and I am looking to run my HTPC to the LCD and my 4805. I just purchased a 2 X 1 DVI/HDMI Switcher from Maraket.com but trying to Output DVI from my Moto HD Cablebox to the 4805 has been very problematic. I am thinking of selling it to get this Dual output DVI adapter. So if anyone has a source "that works good" I would really appreciate.

What about a new video card with dual dvi outputs?

Guidance/Opinions SP4805 2.2 gain screen

Due to my most mobile lifestyle, I purchased a Da Lite Theater-Lite screen which has a 2.2 gain for use with my projector. My questions is, what am I missing using a 2.2 gain screen versus a 1.0 or grey?

My movie settings are normally light controllable, but walls and ceilings are generally off-white. Thanks for any feedback and suggestions if I should get a pulldown with a lower gain and/or how the experince will be enhanced. (The colors seem vivid with Velocity cable from Impact Acoustics) What else am I missing?

Regards,
PM

tried DVD Player > HDMI out > HDMI cable > HDMI to M1 adapter > 4805 - Didn't work (I changed the setting to computer on the 4805 and nothing happened...black screen)
Hi Jarrad - I can't speak to the HTPC, but I've read of others having success with the DVD player setup you describe (in the quote). What resolution are you sending the 4805? 480p I assume?

Due to my most mobile lifestyle, I purchased a Da Lite Theater-Lite screen which has a 2.2 gain for use with my projector. My questions is, what am I missing using a 2.2 gain screen versus a 1.0 or grey?

This is a new and exciting development in our little thread. I have a vision of you, in a van, with blacked out windows, roaming from motel room to motel room doing screenings of "Team America, World Police" then racing away into the night....miles and miles of interstate left in your wake.

If my vision is correct, what your missing is....nagging wifes, stupid bosses, screaming children, cable bills and outraged girlfriends.

If my vision is not correct, then I think all your missing is a proper contrast ratio and better blacks.

I sure hope its the former and not the latter....anyone can have crappy washed out images but only a few of us can have the thrill of puppet sex in strange hotel rooms.

Hi all,

I am soliciting photos of home theaters (with MadPoet's very generous blessing) in this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=642549

I REALLY want to include that classic photo of the 4805 mounted beneath a board that also supports a lovely plastic green plant. I think that image deserves as wide an audience as possible :) . If you are the thread member behind that masterpiece of WAF engineering, please come forward and email me at dan_canale@yahoo.com. Thanks!

You don't know how right you are about the mobile lifestyle. I am about the closest thing to Team American you could imagine. Last major ops were to Kazakhstan and Dushanbe, Tajikistan in service to you know who.

I do have the kids, wife and the B.S. cable bill and therefore must forgo the puppet sex, although some of my collegues are so fortune as to particpate in such events even though it could be a "honey pot" trap.

So next time I am in Carjistan or Asswipeistan, I'll send you a puppet. Thanks for the info on the contrast and blacks.

Team America, Out!

nhpm510 ,

--- Don't fall for it , Brian is actually a double agent ... if that is even his real name ;) .

-------- Jason

What about a new video card with dual dvi outputs?

JaPhule that is a good idea. That is why I love this forum. So often we don't think of the simple solution. Anyway what Video card with Dual DVI output would you suggest? Thanks!

JaPhule that is a good idea. That is why I love this forum. So often we don't think of the simple solution. Anyway what Video card with Dual DVI output would you suggest? Thanks!

Nvidia 6x00 and 7x00 cards like the 6600GT seem popular around here. I usually check newegg.com for the different cards available.

Hi all,

I am soliciting photos of home theaters (with MadPoet's very generous blessing) in this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=642549

I REALLY want to include that classic photo of the 4805 mounted beneath a board that also supports a lovely plastic green plant. I think that image deserves as wide an audience as possible :) . If you are the thread member behind that masterpiece of WAF engineering, please come forward and email me at dan_canale@yahoo.com. Thanks!
For the benefit of the newer members, this is the shot I am talking about:

http://www.brooklynhoods.com/the-shot.gif

I included it in a proposal for this email newsletter...

I think it was scooterboy's work.

anybody have a solution to lag in pc games thru dvi as my crt does not have this problem? p4 3.2 9800xt 512 ram windows me

You're seriously not running WinME still?!?! :eek:

Especially with those specs.

I am running an ATI Radeon 9600 w/ powerstrip and Power DVD to my SP 4805. I love the "VIVID" color scheme in Power DVD. I would prefer to use my LG 531 DVD player instead but I love that color scheme. What settings can I change on my projector to get the same colors with my DVD player? Also, can any one explain the PC gamma setting to me?

Cheers?

My interest has been peaked by all the discussion of the great picture that results from 1:1 pixel mapping. Not sure if I have enough time right now to devote to putting together an HTPC so I'm considering purchasing a Bravo D2. However I'm having difficulty even finding one for sale. If anyone knows a reliable source for the purchase of this DVD player please advise.

Thanks

Has anyone had sucess with swapping their factory Bravo D2 remote with a universal remote? If so, what works?

As D2 owners know, the Bravo remote sucks.

Thanks for any tips.

DenM3

Did that. I have 3 sources, 2 directv, 1 hdtv tuner. None worked. I went direct from all 3 one at a time bypassing the componenet switcher in the AVR.


If you have any of the three colors (RGB) on the wrong rgb outlets, the signal will drop out completely (sometimes). Check your colors again. plug them in with lots o light.

green looks like blue in dim light.

good luck

Denm3

Has anyone had sucess with swapping their factory Bravo D2 remote with a universal remote? If so, what works?

As D2 owners know, the Bravo remote sucks.

Thanks for any tips.

DenM3

A good universal remote with learning capabilities should work. Remotes from Harmony and URC (mx-500, URC200) are popular.

For the benefit of the newer members, this is the shot I am talking about:

http://www.brooklynhoods.com/the-shot.gif

I included it in a proposal for this email newsletter...

I think it was scooterboy's work.
Yup - that would be mine. Not sure if I should be flattered or embarrassed, but I'll send you an email anyway...

:p

Hey everyone newbie here Just bought me a sp 4805 Im in to testing FTA Satelite and thought I would try this projection thing out Im gonna run a htpc to I hear alot about this ffdshadow or something like that ....I am gonna try a 120 inch screen I have the light controlled in the room, and I will be sitting 19 feet from the screen I hope that is far enough away...well I hope to be posting when I get going...wish me luck.......

Hey everyone newbie here Just bought me a sp 4805 Im in to testing FTA Satelite and thought I would try this projection thing out Im gonna run a htpc to I hear alot about this ffdshadow or something like that ....I am gonna try a 120 inch screen I have the light controlled in the room, and I will be sitting 19 feet from the screen I hope that is far enough away...well I hope to be posting when I get going...wish me luck.......

19 feet should be plenty as i sit 10 feet away from my 130" screen :)

Well my bulb just hit 1500 Hrs. What would you all think a 1500 Hrs bulb would put out in lumens? 400 maybe? I say this because the image looks better now. If it is around 400 then that gives me between 13 and 14 FTL. 118" X 50", 2.35 AR screen at 1.4 gain. I thought I would need to replace it by now. :D Never did use a ND2 filter.

Well my bulb just hit 1500 Hrs. What would you all think a 1500 Hrs bulb would put out in lumens? 400 maybe? I say this because the image looks better now. If it is around 400 then that gives me between 13 and 14 FTL. 118" X 50", 2.35 AR screen at 1.4 gain. I thought I would need to replace it by now. :D Never did use a ND2 filter.

Yeah, I'm around 1500 hours also. On my 92" 1.1 gain screen, it's still plenty bright...with the ND2 filter still on. :)

I'm at 1000 and still good with the filter on 100" white blackout cloth.
From what I'm reading it might make 2000 before the filter needs to come off - ya?

-W

Somebody's got to be the dissenter - I'm at around 1200 hours and my filter has been removed since around the 1000 hour mark (92" HCCV screen). Also, I no longer can tolerate CRT gamma which used to be my favorite with a newer bulb - everything I watch is now FILM gamma.

My bulb has definitely dimmed - still punchy with the above named concessions, but dimmed nonetheless...

19 feet should be plenty as i sit 10 feet away from my 130" screen :)
How does the picture look ...Ive been doing alot of searching on this nice site and they say 120 is pushing it ....Maybe a Screenshot ....

Somebody's got to be the dissenter - I'm at around 1200 hours and my filter has been removed since around the 1000 hour mark (92" HCCV screen). Also, I no longer can tolerate CRT gamma which used to be my favorite with a newer bulb - everything I watch is now FILM gamma.

My bulb has definitely dimmed - still punchy with the above named concessions, but dimmed nonetheless...
Oh yeah... "CRT" gamma hasn't been used since the early days. I'm on "Film" or "Video" (or "Bright Room 2" when my wife insists on knitting with a small light on).

BTW - if you haven't checked out WillyGib's HT (above) I highly recommend it -- a constant height beauty with a 4805 and Prismasonic lens at its heart. He has kindly agreed to let me use the images in my article.

JeffKB, I switched from CRT to Film gamma quite a while ago because although I enjoyed the CRT setting which it seemed so "black", after a while I began to feel it was a false setting, so I happily switched to Film and never looked back.

I'm not sure of my lamp hours because InFocus reset the thing when they repaired it. Anyone know how I can find the true lamp hours?

You might remember me from a previous post; I’m the one who posted about the “light tube” or “mirrored channel”, whatever, it’s the 1 inch long mirrored tube that light travels through from the bulb to the lens (If you see any yellowing around the edges of your screen it if caused by this tube being misaligned). Here’s my question; does anyone know where I can buy internal parts for the InFocus 4805, I really need to replace that mirrored tube. Presently I replaced it with a tube I made with highly polished aluminum and it works fine but my brightness suffered. I tried making one out of mirror but for the life of me I can’t cut pieces that small without breaking them.

What about this member named Bob Williams… can you help me out? I can’t afford to go out and buy another projector.

Thanks
Joe

Update: 3 weeks after thorough cleaning, my projector is now buzz free. It was buzzing regularly at startup prior to cleaning. It was immediately much better after cleaning, only buzz occurred at about 10 minutes into operation for about 10 seconds. This lasted for about a week.

For over a week now its been perfect...

So my deduction is that this must be heat related anomoly as I don't think there could be enough dust getting into the bearing to cause this...and I doubt it would self clean. I had let the filters get almost 75% clogged and the operating temperature must have shot up, probably changed the viscosity and allowed bearing to rub...I surmise that now its reseated and lubricant is working at correct temperature.

So, my experience, keep the PJ internals clean to keep the buzzing to a minimum.

Have about 2100 hours on it, just took off the ND2, nice perk in brightness, picutre still looks as good as day I bought it.


The buzzing noise you hear is caused by the color wheel. I examined mine closely; there are 6 plastic colored pieces glued to a hub that spins (I think these are Dichroic DIE-CROW-ICK filters). There is a very small space between each “blade”. If these “blades” are not perfectly in line they tend to buzz and I’m ASSUMING that once they spin a while and warm up from the bulb right next to it they align themselves which eliminates the buzzing noise.

In my case I tapped each one lightly and found 2 that appeared loose and carefully reinforced the glue holding them and have absolutely no buzzing now. Bare in mind I’m a patient, meticulous person and would not recommend the average person tampering with these dichotic filters unless it is ABSOLUTLEY necessary.

Joe

Just got a good deal for my Thanksgiving refurb using the "All buying options" link on the IF 1 year lamp warranty listing. (under accessories)...the 90 day deadline will be here soon.

I am almost 100% certian the re-firbs sold by Staples included a 2yr warranty through staples that also included the bulb.

Nope, standard 90 day remanufactured product warranty from IF. You could buy a 3rd party 2 year extension plan from Staples, but "consumables" weren't covered.

I just "upgraded" to the new HD receiver with d* and have tried to hook it to my 4805. My previous HD receiver worked fine through a 25" DVI cable that I purchased for this purpose. The new D* receiver only has HDMI as an output - so I bought a HDMI/DVI adapter and can't get a picture.

Any suggestions? Are there any settings I need to change or should I just buy a cable that goes HDMI to DVI instead of using an adapter. Please help me!

Is the 4805 HDCP compliant? My new DVD player is HDMI with HDCP and I only get a blue screen with my HDMI to M1 cable; I’m beginning to think it is because it is not an HDCP compliant display device.

I distincly remember seeing the description page on Staples site explicitly state a 2yr warrant which included the blub.

Of course, their site doesn't have the pj listed, and I didn't save a screen shot.

Still, I remember the warranty and it's 16x9 chip being the bigger selling points to me.

Now you got me worried. :(

Ok, connection experts. How much better, in % points for cable and DVD to the 4805:

1. Would S-Video be over composite?

2. Would component be over S-Vid?

3. Would HDMI/M1 be over component?

Many thanks in advance!

I don't know the % but I do know that HDMI looks a whole lot better than composite.

Just my 2 cents.

Ok, connection experts. How much better, in % points for cable and DVD to the 4805:

1. Would S-Video be over composite?

2. Would component be over S-Vid?

3. Would HDMI/M1 be over component?

Many thanks in advance!
http://www.infocus.com/service/sp4805/downloads/Infocus_4805_QS.pdf

Ok, connection experts. How much better, in % points for cable and DVD to the 4805:

1. Would S-Video be over composite?

2. Would component be over S-Vid?

3. Would HDMI/M1 be over component?

Many thanks in advance!
I tried very hard but was never able to see a difference between component and DVI. S-video over composite is a significant imrpovement, component over S-video is also an improvment. Just my take.

Ok, connection experts. How much better, in % points for cable and DVD to the 4805:

1. Would S-Video be over composite?

2. Would component be over S-Vid?

3. Would HDMI/M1 be over component?

Many thanks in advance!

I have never had my 4805 connected via composite but I have had it connected via S-VIDEO, Component and now DVI. My take would be; S-VIDEO like watching a VHS tape, component like a 480i DVD, and DVI like a 480P DVD. As far as % points. S-VID to Component 100%. Now component to DVI - M1 is about 20% only because I first used DVI-M1 with my iScan HD+ doing a 1:1 pixel map.

Would there be any benefit to using cream colored blackout cloth over white? I can get either for 5.99 a yard. I know gray affects black levels. I was wondering if cream has any positive effects. Also, do you guys project on the rubber side or cloth side? Thanks.

A year has elapsed since the weekend in which Costco placed the SP4805 on sale and introduced many of us to its wonders. In that year we have made a few changes in our media room which have given dramatic improvements.

If you go to my photo gallery you can see the evolution which took place from a borrowed screen on milk cases with an HP DLP form work, to our current configuration. My bulb hours so far a bit over a 1000, with hardly a change in brightness.

What has changed is the increased contrast perception and color vibrancy following some room changes. Our first order of business was placing the PJ above our heads. I wish to publicly thank ScooterBoy for his inspirational problem solving as I used almost the same Home Depot mounts, plexiglass, bolts and wingnuts to make a 20 buck wall mount. I could not top him in greenery though.

Next, we added some dark blue drapes which made a huge difference as day time viewing was now much better. Understand that it was never that bad to begin with, but, that extra bit of light control helps.

The floor was taken care of when we placed a dark blue based rug on the floor over the light carpet.

The real big project was the screen wall. The dark blue Behr paint really did the trick in your eye's color and contrast perception of the picture. Your eyes also seem more relaxed as there was no longer stray light bouncing around the room. The effect is so good that I can put on a small lamp in the back near our chairs and read while the PJ is running.

Final touches were the mouldings which blended the walls together.

After a year of owning this I can't be happier. My plans to upgrade can wait until a super deal comes along and then I can sell the SP4805 to some friends for a fair price. I have seen other PJ's and except for a slight increase in detail, I can't justify a jump up yet as the colors and contrast are so good.

As far as fan noise goes, I figured this out one night. When you watch a film projector in a small studio you accept the film noise as part of the mytsique to a degree. My ears have blocked out any fan noise based on the PJ being above me rather than besides me. The remaining few DB are a whisper and only noticed when what is on the screen is bad.

Only maintainance has been two cleanings of the filter which is pretty easy.

All in all I have to thank the site and the many people here who have shared their tweeks and thrills with the InFocus SP4805

Check out the pix if you can.

PKinSFLA



103-0357_IMG

I just "upgraded" to the new HD receiver with d* and have tried to hook it to my 4805. My previous HD receiver worked fine through a 25" DVI cable that I purchased for this purpose. The new D* receiver only has HDMI as an output - so I bought a HDMI/DVI adapter and can't get a picture.

Any suggestions? Are there any settings I need to change or should I just buy a cable that goes HDMI to DVI instead of using an adapter. Please help me!


Any thoughts on this? Should the adapter work or should I need a cable. Was thinking about this more and realizing essentially the adapter has me going from M1 to DVI to HDMI. Maybe that's the problem?

Our first order of business was placing the PJ above our heads. I wish to publicly thank ScooterBoy for his inspirational problem solving as I used almost the same Home Depot mounts, plexiglass, bolts and wingnuts to make a 20 buck wall mount. I could not top him in greenery though.
Glad it worked out for you!

And you have some very nice greenery there!

:p

Any thoughts on this? Should the adapter work or should I need a cable. Was thinking about this more and realizing essentially the adapter has me going from M1 to DVI to HDMI. Maybe that's the problem?

It should work. If you're not getting a picture with this connection, it may be due to the 25' run. It may be possible that your stb isn't sending out a strong enough signal to get to the 4805. Maybe try a shorter length cable. It's possible the adapter could also be bad so you should try a shorter cable or the adapter with another device.

I have my HTPC driving the 4805 at 1280x720 , 60hz (also tried 75/85hz), and it gets recognized as 720p as expected.

I noticed that the image projected has a slight shake/jitter. This is of course more visible when the desktop/text is projected more than video/moving pictures(I think this shows up in videos as slight noise). Is this something that everyone doing VGA/720p is seeing?

1) I feed the same VGA signal(with a good VGA splitter) to my Samsung DLP (native 1280x720) and the image is rock stable, text and everything..

2) Component input from my HD cable box seems stable, so it's not heat waves or anything in the optical path..

3) Hitting Autoimage doesn't improve things.

4) Tried 640x480, and it's totally stable.
--
Edit: 5) Tried 1280x768. Strangely enough, it gets reported as 1024x768, is very stable, and is also proper 16:9. There is very little overscan also. With all the scaling, text is not crisp(neither is it with 1280x720). With video, it's probably not that important for the pixel to fall in exactly the right place. Looks like I'm leaving it this way..
--
Is this basically due to the downscaling of the VGA signal, with the pixels getting moved around a bit in different frames etc? , or something else?

Is it possible to get this to be stable by tweaking some timings of the projector, sync levels or something?

Those with this sort of VGA setup, project the desktop/text and get close to the screen and see if the picture is stable to see what I'm saying.

One of these days, I'll get around to doing DVI(those with the DVI setup, is the projected picture stable? ) and 1:1 pixel mapping but in the meantime..

I have a nice solid desktop but I'm using 1280x768. (60hz) It seems to scale the image pretty well. I switch between the desktop and my MyHD card (at 864x480p) and both look good. (at 140" diag) All the other resolutions I tried either jittered or weren't very readable.

The add did say 2 year warranty, staples confirmed it was a typo and was a 90 day warranty. Some people got managers to say that since it was in print they would cover it for two years, but other people say IF controls the warranty repairs and as such will only offer 90 days.

Best bet is to call IF and if you get turned down for warranty repair call staples with a copy of the add (it's floating around the net).

Simple fast HDMI question...

What type of cable do I need if going from a small HDMI output device to the 4805 DVI input? Is there a cable that has HDMI on one side and DVI the other? Or adaptor needed?

Simple fast HDMI question...

What type of cable do I need if going from a small HDMI output device to the 4805 DVI input? Is there a cable that has HDMI on one side and DVI the other? Or adaptor needed?


Why dont you just future proof your cable? Get the HDMI cable and buy a HDMI to M1 like i dit? That way when you up grade your PJ you already have the HDMI cable.

Jean Claude

Can someone please post a list of HDMI DVD players that are known to work with the 4805?

Edit: 5) Tried 1280x768. Strangely enough, it gets reported as 1024x768, is very stable, and is also proper 16:9. There is very little overscan also. With all the scaling, text is not crisp(neither is it with 1280x720). With video, it's probably not that important for the pixel to fall in exactly the right place. Looks like I'm leaving it this way..
--
.

The 4805 seems to like 1280x768, but my Samsung DLP RP picture/aspect ratio is all messed up with 1280x768 (like it should, I imagine.. it's 1280x720 native, and that's really the right resolution). So now I have to switch between resolutions 1280x768 and 1280x720 depending on whether I'm driving the 4805 or the Samsung. Doable, but a pain..

Is there anyway the 4805 can be made to take 1280x720 and be stable?? Why does this have so many quirks in processing it's VGA input?

After seeing the 4805 on shop @ home last yr and coming here to research it I decided to bUy it and I'm glad I recently got a 55'' lcd after 2 days I took it back now when watching the 4805 it seems not bright enough for me I remember seeing mention about a filter to make it brighter. What do I need to buy?

After seeing the 4805 on shop @ home last yr and coming here to research it I decided to bUy it and I'm glad I recently got a 55'' lcd after 2 days I took it back now when watching the 4805 it seems not bright enough for me I remember seeing mention about a filter to make it brighter. What do I need to buy?

A new bulb maybe? How big of an image do you have? What size screen? How many hours have you used up? Have you properly calibrated the brightness and contrast? The 4805 is very bright for many of us. We use the filter to cut down the brightness in half. These are home theater projectors where brightness levels should be around 12ftl (standard for movie theaters). TVs can have a brightness beginning at 40ftl and higher. Without the filter, my 4805 is at 24ftl. I could probably get the 4805 to get to 40ftl if I made my image 55".

A new bulb maybe? How big of an image do you have? What size screen? How many hours have you used up? Have you properly calibrated the brightness and contrast? The 4805 is very bright for many of us. We use the filter to cut down the brightness in half. These are home theater projectors where brightness levels should be around 12ftl (standard for movie theaters). TVs can have a brightness beginning at 40ftl and higher. Without the filter, my 4805 is at 24ftl. I could probably get the 4805 to get to 40ftl if I made my image 55".

screen is 76'' 1200hrs on the bulb

So I was thinking what with the talk of smokers, dirty wheels and dirty this and that... do the mirrors that actually reflect the light in the DLP process get dirty? And if so is there a way to clean them?

After seeing the 4805 on shop @ home last yr and coming here to research it I decided to bUy it and I'm glad I recently got a 55'' lcd after 2 days I took it back now when watching the 4805 it seems not bright enough for me I remember seeing mention about a filter to make it brighter. What do I need to buy?

I'm having a hard time understanding what this says. Next time, try some periods and commas.

So I was thinking what with the talk of smokers, dirty wheels and dirty this and that... do the mirrors that actually reflect the light in the DLP process get dirty? And if so is there a way to clean them?

Try to stop worrying and start enjoying your 4805. Just make sure your filters stay clean.

The 4805 seems to like 1280x768, but my Samsung DLP RP picture/aspect ratio is all messed up with 1280x768 (like it should, I imagine.. it's 1280x720 native, and that's really the right resolution). So now I have to switch between resolutions 1280x768 and 1280x720 depending on whether I'm driving the 4805 or the Samsung. Doable, but a pain..

Is there anyway the 4805 can be made to take 1280x720 and be stable?? Why does this have so many quirks in processing it's VGA input?

This is wierd. The VGA should handle 1280x720 no problem.

To upgrade or not to upgrade :

I was hoping to enlist some of the expert advice that reads this thread on a daily basis. I bought my 4805 a few months ago, have set it up with an HTPC, got it all pixel mapped and am EXTREMELY happy with it.
Last week I started to get the intermitten 'buzz saw' noise. I went into the store where I bought it, and they actually offered to exchange it for me.

Now, the tricky part is that since there has been a recent price drop on the AE700 (the one I was trying to decide if it was worth the extra $800-1000 when buying the 4805), I can upgrade to that one for just a couple hundred more.

The dilemma:

I love the picture that I am getting with the 4805... especially DVDs off of the HTPC! WOW!

On the other hand, I have a slight amount of keystone because of placement I can't get it perfectly square with the screen -- lens shift on the panny would be great.

Also, I do use it as a PC monitor on occasion, so a native 1280x720 would look better, and more info would fit on the screen, than my current 848x480.

Last, from my closest seating position you can really notice SDE on the 4805, especially I find on HD broadcasts. Presumably this wouldn't be an issue with the Panny.

So, what would you guys do if you were in my exact position right now?

Thanks for any insight you can provide!

I'm having a hard time understanding what this says. Next time, try some periods and commas.

come on dont be so hard on the poor guy its not easy dont you think to type a comma thats asking alot from someone or a period for example these things take time and why even including them at all is it better to know whats being said or simply write a run on sentence that goes on and on and on because i wait no thats not me maybe its everyone need to understand whats being said you know what im saying

Gawd, that's hard to do. I nearly had a mental breakdown trying to not include the punctuation!

;) ;) ;)

I recently picked this projector up and was wondering if it was normal to have light coming out of the lamp housing when it is on?

I recently picked this projector up and was wondering if it was normal to have light coming out of the lamp housing when it is on?

Unfortunately, yes.

This is wierd. The VGA should handle 1280x720 no problem.

therealgeno,

are you running the 4805 over VGA at 1280x720 , or can you? Do you notice no jitter/shake ? You need to look closely, but it is very clear, and it seems like zaphod above sees it too.

Any HTPC folks around here, can you try this?

original post (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7115537&&#post7115537)

I used to run 720p over vga (I've switched to DVI, can't seem to sync 720p over dvi from video card but that's a different issue). I never noticed any jitter then.

I'd try fooling with some of the advanced picture setting to see if it can affect the jittering (like sync threshold).

Can someone please post a list of HDMI DVD players that are known to work with the 4805?

therealgeno,

are you running the 4805 over VGA at 1280x720 , or can you? Do you notice no jitter/shake ? You need to look closely, but it is very clear, and it seems like zaphod above sees it too.

Any HTPC folks around here, can you try this?

original post (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7115537&&#post7115537)

Could you describe this "jitter/shake?" Are you talking about stutter during video playback or are you saying that the desktop is "jittering?"

screen is 76'' 1200hrs on the bulb


Ya.. it's a case of expectations.
A PJ is not a plasma TV. The 4805 is actually too bright for most applications out of the box - thus we use a filter on it to cut the light output.

-W

Could you describe this "jitter/shake?" Are you talking about stutter during video playback or are you saying that the desktop is "jittering?"

desktop jittering. Project the desktop, which is a static image but it shakes a little bit maybe a pixel either way, like it's not syncing properly or something.

Video stutter is an entirely different issue, as we know.

I've got my 4805 hooked up to my zenith 318 dvd player. I am looking to upgrade my dvd player but am limited to component out. Which dvd players should I consider?

I've got my 4805 hooked up to my zenith 318 dvd player. I am looking to upgrade my dvd player but am limited to component out. Which dvd players should I consider?

What aren't you happy with the Zenith? 1080i over component with the 318 is a very high quality feed.

Your other option is a solid core 480i player that you send to the 4805 and let the 4805 do all the deinterlacing.

I'd probably keep the Zenith. . .

Wes

ps why are you limited to component? No DVI cable fished?

Stima and alex i have nothing but praise for my 4805 except for lag in a old game called unreal which i think this puter could handle thru dvi at 848 by 480 at 60 refresh rate but i am looking to burn more hours off before the warranty expires so i thought the best way was with some older games i enjoy and yes i own xp also so if you think i should play it with that and this will solve the stuttering just let me know or maybe i should lock the refresh rate vsync? any help would be appreciated as i have gone to japhules site and went to alot of other places looking for answers but found none but i have heard many glow with elation how it played with much more modern games. system abit max3 80gig maxtor xms512 dvdrw monoprice 6 foot dvi to m1 cable to 4805 in a shivaro to a 6 feet wide screen.

Can someone please post a list of HDMI DVD players that are known to work with the 4805?
No. There is no list.

Does this mean that no on knows of an HDMI dvd player that works with the :( 4805?

Does this mean that no on knows of an HDMI dvd player that works with the :( 4805?If you do a search on this thread alone for "dvd player" it will return 300 messages discussing DVD players used with the SP4805.

If you do a similar search on the original thread, you will find another 300. (The search function returns a maximum of 300 messages athough there are many, many more.)

Does this mean that no on knows of an HDMI dvd player that works with the :( 4805?
since the 4805 has No HDMI input----u will need adapter HDMI->M1(P&D) 4805
also the DVD player should be capable of outputting HDMI & Digital Audio (optical/coaxial) simultaneously

EZ player outputting DVI a lot of folks like = Oppo 971H
Best PQ via DVI would be Bravo/Momitsu players (1:1 pixel mapping) but may require tinkering

suggest u do more research in DVD Players (Standard Def) (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=18)

The picture looks good but a little soft for my taste with the zenith 318. Since I'm not sending the 4805 an interlace signal, I can't adjust the sharpness. Also, I am limited to component cables due to installation. Any recommendations?

TXJOe,

I use the LG Lda 531
HDMI and Component input. With HDCP and Macrovision hacks and recent firmware upgrade, the player is awesome in 1080i. I prefer the component input but I've used both. I have an HDMI to M1 cable that I bought on e-bay for $30. You can see my review of this player in the Video components forum under "upconverting players impresiions/opinions" thread.

I've also tried the Samsung HD850 and 941 and was very dissapointed with both. Don't waste your time.

I am 100% certain that the LG has no problem playing any commercial/copy protected material after the hacks are applied.

Any thoughts on a good s-video capture card to work with Dscaler or another scaler software program?

I am setting up a HTPC to capture my output from my DTivo (S-video), rescale it with the HTPC and output it to the 4805 via DVI.

I also need ideas on which scaler software to use. this is my 1st HTPC.

I have a canopus video capture advc-100 but the output is firewire and I don't think it will work for this purpose.

Thx

If you do a search on this thread alone for "dvd player" it will return 300 messages discussing DVD players used with the SP4805.

If you do a similar search on the original thread, you will find another 300. (The search function returns a maximum of 300 messages athough there are many, many more.)

Which makes the point that a live fast new answer beats the hell out of sifting through 600 posts to get opinions. Thanks for playing though. :D

-W

Which makes the point that a live fast new answer beats the hell out of sifting through 600 posts to get opinions. Thanks for playing though. :D

-W

DITTO!

Thanks Zippo.

I tried the Samsung, no picture on HDMI, tried a Toshiba, same thing, ordered the Oppo today. :cool:

Another Happy Landing

-W

I have got a question. I use my SP4805 with a panasonic dvd player (S35) with component outputs. I have calibrated my brigtness and contrast with the AVIA disk, I also checked my color tracking and gamma tracking with Steve Smallcombe's Smart III system using the lightmeter and filters. Everything seems to be ok, but I get the following issue:

Some images, especially bright red ones becomes almost yellow/flickering in the bright areas. If I turn contrast up and down it becomes worse (up) or goes away when I lower it.
It looks as if the bright red part in the image suddenly becomes brighter but yellower. The other colors also do it (green more than blue).

If I take the AVIA disk and look at color decoder check I can see that the bottom 2 or 3 red blocks isn't really red, its more yellow with pixels sort of flickering yellow.

I see it often on peoples faces near the nose where the color becomes basically white.

Could this be a problem with my DVD player or could it be that my contrast/colour is too much. (Consider I have calibrated it, to make this go away I must lower my contrast(to 50 from about 57), brightness(to 50 from about 53) and colour gain values(to 44 from about 50)Or is this a case where the projector cannot make for instance red any redder so it ads white light to make it brighter?

What version firmware does it have?

-W

As far as I can remember it has the latest firmware V1.2. I bought it a month ago.
Philip

Not sure if it'll help you , but try reflashing it to the original firmware. There have been some flicker issues with the later versions - though a new one is headed out soon to deal with that.

-W

Thanks, so If I understand correctly the flicker issue does not mean the entire screen is flickering, it is individual pixels flickering? Especially bright scenes.

Once you put it that way.. I dissagree with myself. :)
The firmware issue is usually most of the screen and in dark scenes.

-W

I have got a question. I use my SP4805 with a panasonic dvd player (S35) with component outputs. I have calibrated my brigtness and contrast with the AVIA disk, I also checked my color tracking and gamma tracking with Steve Smallcombe's Smart III system using the lightmeter and filters. Everything seems to be ok, but I get the following issue:

Some images, especially bright red ones becomes almost yellow/flickering in the bright areas. If I turn contrast up and down it becomes worse (up) or goes away when I lower it.
It looks as if the bright red part in the image suddenly becomes brighter but yellower. The other colors also do it (green more than blue).

If I take the AVIA disk and look at color decoder check I can see that the bottom 2 or 3 red blocks isn't really red, its more yellow with pixels sort of flickering yellow.

I see it often on peoples faces near the nose where the color becomes basically white.

Could this be a problem with my DVD player or could it be that my contrast/colour is too much. (Consider I have calibrated it, to make this go away I must lower my contrast(to 50 from about 57), brightness(to 50 from about 53) and colour gain values(to 44 from about 50)Or is this a case where the projector cannot make for instance red any redder so it ads white light to make it brighter?

Did you adjust your color gains using the Smart III system or did you just eye them? Set your gains/offsets to 50 and set your dvd player to interlaced (so that the 4805 will do the deinterlacing, not your dvd player). Use the 4805 to do color/saturation adjustments.

I am using my dvd player in interlaced mode set to "normal" for gamma and color. I first used avia to set the brightness and contrast. Then I used smart to test the pj. Smart showed that almost nothing needed to be changed, gamma was correct and colour tracking was also good.
I had to manually then lower the gains, contrast and brightness to make the flashing pixels and washed out colors go away in very bright scenes.
I will try my dvd player with a friends Infocus X1 pj tomorrow to see if I get something similar or not.
To illustrate:
Imagine a red image, going from dark at the bottom of the screen to very bright at the top. Somewhere in the middle to top there is a transition where the colour goes from red to a "bright yellowish red" color. Not a real red like you want. Usually also at the transition position some pixels will flash, alternate between real red and yellow red. The top of the picture will be very bright, a yellow washed out red.
I could take some pictures or perhaps a short video.

Greetings,
I have had my 4805 about a month-- bought new, but it has the origingal firm-ware 1.02. It works wonderfully. Now, my problem, which I have not seen addressed on the dozens of pages I have scanned.
I have a Scientific Atlanta HD cable box. I have been using component out/in, but I have to switch cables in order to also play DVDs thru component. So, I ordered an adapter which plugs into the M1 DA on the projector, has female component ends which I plug my component cable into. No picture, nothing, connecting either the cable box or the DVD player.
Some of the posts above have alluded to problems with DVI using the M1 DA input, so I am not too surprised.
What am I missing here?
My only other options are a switch box or a new AV receiver with component switching.
I would really appreciate a response from someone, or reference to somewhere that I could get an answer.
(My cable box does not have HDMI and I was afraid to buy an adapter to use the cable box's DVI output because my TW cable company says about only 40% of these boxes have DVI outputs that are connected. Huh? Anyway, that is what they said.)
Thanks for reading

Oops,
I forgot two key facts: I have programmed my cable box to output 1080i, and the DVD player is set to output 480p (I will try changing that to 480i, based on posts advising us to let the Faroudja do the conversion to 480p

Greetings
Does anyone know the difference between sp-lamp-09 (x1,x2,4800) and the sp-lamp-021 (4805) ?? Mistakingly ordered 09 for my 4805..looks the same..mounts the same..the 4800 has the same hrs. rating as my 4805. Has anyone tried this lamp in their 4805

thanks

Oops,
I forgot two key facts: I have programmed my cable box to output 1080i, and the DVD player is set to output 480p (I will try changing that to 480i, based on posts advising us to let the Faroudja do the conversion to 480p

I think you want to have the DVD player output 480i so that the built in Faroudja chip can do the conversion. If you send the PJ 480P , it will bypass the Faroudja chip. Get a component (pastel color 3 lead cable) and run that to your DVD player. Youll be set.

I just received my refurbished 4805 and am having a problem. I ordered a M1 to DVI cable from monoprice, 35ft length. When I plugged it in I got picture but the color was completely off, everything was red. I could adjust the colors to look “better” but the out of the box settings were just way off. When connected via component everything works fine and looks great. I really wanted to use the DVI because I’ve heard the quality is so much better. Has anyone else had this problem? Do you think I should get the M1 to DVI adapter from InFocus and then get a DVI cable to go to my DVD player? Is it possible that there is something wrong with the M1 port, or is it my cable? Thanks for all your help, I tried searching and looked through the FAQ but couldn’t find any answers.

I just received my refurbished 4805 and am having a problem. I ordered a M1 to DVI cable from monoprice, 35ft length. When I plugged it in I got picture but the color was completely off, everything was red. I could adjust the colors to look “better” but the out of the box settings were just way off. When connected via component everything works fine and looks great. I really wanted to use the DVI because I’ve heard the quality is so much better. Has anyone else had this problem? Do you think I should get the M1 to DVI adapter from InFocus and then get a DVI cable to go to my DVD player? Is it possible that there is something wrong with the M1 port, or is it my cable? Thanks for all your help, I tried searching and looked through the FAQ but couldn’t find any answers.

Hit the "autoimage" button on the remote first and see if that solves your problem.

Greetings,
I have had my 4805 about a month-- bought new, but it has the origingal firm-ware 1.02. It works wonderfully. Now, my problem, which I have not seen addressed on the dozens of pages I have scanned.
I have a Scientific Atlanta HD cable box. I have been using component out/in, but I have to switch cables in order to also play DVDs thru component. So, I ordered an adapter which plugs into the M1 DA on the projector, has female component ends which I plug my component cable into. No picture, nothing, connecting either the cable box or the DVD player.
Some of the posts above have alluded to problems with DVI using the M1 DA input, so I am not too surprised.
What am I missing here?
My only other options are a switch box or a new AV receiver with component switching.
I would really appreciate a response from someone, or reference to somewhere that I could get an answer.
(My cable box does not have HDMI and I was afraid to buy an adapter to use the cable box's DVI output because my TW cable company says about only 40% of these boxes have DVI outputs that are connected. Huh? Anyway, that is what they said.)
Thanks for reading

Just to be sure, the component connection via the m1 port, you are selecting the pc/computer input on the 4805 right?

I am using my dvd player in interlaced mode set to "normal" for gamma and color. I first used avia to set the brightness and contrast. Then I used smart to test the pj. Smart showed that almost nothing needed to be changed, gamma was correct and colour tracking was also good.
I had to manually then lower the gains, contrast and brightness to make the flashing pixels and washed out colors go away in very bright scenes.
I will try my dvd player with a friends Infocus X1 pj tomorrow to see if I get something similar or not.
To illustrate:
Imagine a red image, going from dark at the bottom of the screen to very bright at the top. Somewhere in the middle to top there is a transition where the colour goes from red to a "bright yellowish red" color. Not a real red like you want. Usually also at the transition position some pixels will flash, alternate between real red and yellow red. The top of the picture will be very bright, a yellow washed out red.
I could take some pictures or perhaps a short video.

Sounds like its either a problem with your dvd player, the player's component output, the component cable, or the 4805's component input. Set the dvd player to 480p and see if the problem is still there. Try the dvd player over svideo/composite and see if you get the same thing.

I just received my refurbished 4805 and am having a problem. I ordered a M1 to DVI cable from monoprice, 35ft length. When I plugged it in I got picture but the color was completely off, everything was red. I could adjust the colors to look “better” but the out of the box settings were just way off. When connected via component everything works fine and looks great. I really wanted to use the DVI because I’ve heard the quality is so much better. Has anyone else had this problem? Do you think I should get the M1 to DVI adapter from InFocus and then get a DVI cable to go to my DVD player? Is it possible that there is something wrong with the M1 port, or is it my cable? Thanks for all your help, I tried searching and looked through the FAQ but couldn’t find any answers.


I have the 50 ft DVI to M1 cable from monoprice. Works well from my PC to the 4805.

Any thoughts on a good s-video capture card to work with Dscaler or another scaler software program?

I am setting up a HTPC to capture my output from my DTivo (S-video), rescale it with the HTPC and output it to the 4805 via DVI.

I also need ideas on which scaler software to use. this is my 1st HTPC.

I have a canopus video capture advc-100 but the output is firewire and I don't think it will work for this purpose.

Thx


I thought I find someone here in this group that is working with scalers and capture cards? Anyone Anyone? :confused:

I thought I find someone here in this group that is working with scalers and capture cards? Anyone Anyone? :confused:

I use a compro videomate gold pc tv tuner card using windvr software to capture tv and svideo content. It seems to work well. If I could start all over however, I'd probably look into a card that does hardware mpeg2 capture instead of software mpeg2 capture used by windvr and other pc apps.

Hit the "autoimage" button on the remote first and see if that solves your problem.

Yeah I tried that button a few times. Can anyone tell me the advantages of DVI over Component? I've read many people saying that they can't tell the difference in quality? I;m tempted just to stay with component if I can't get the DVI to work.

Greetings (I don't know how to reference previous post of mine-- shows up in white on new posts)
Anyway, I put the source selection on auto and Ihave no othe "live" signals on. That is, if I have the cable box connected to the M1 DA, then I do not have the DVD power on. So, there is only the one signal to select--- right? Must I specifically select the DVI "Computer" input?
I noticed something that disturbs me-- the DVI input is listed as "1", and so is the component video input. Why is that? Is that causing some kind of problem? I have been reading that the Mi DA input is digital. Is that causing a problem vs. running straight through from component out to component in? Remember, I am outputting from COMPONENT-- on both the cable box and the DVD, but not both at the same time-- and inputting on the M1 DA. My little adapter makes it possible.

Greetings (I don't know how to reference previous post of mine-- shows up in white on new posts)
Anyway, I put the source selection on auto and Ihave no othe "live" signals on. That is, if I have the cable box connected to the M1 DA, then I do not have the DVD power on. So, there is only the one signal to select--- right? Must I specifically select the DVI "Computer" input?

I guess there's only one way to find out... :)
Some devices, even when powered off is still sending something via their connection. I'm not saying that your dvd player is still sending...but it could be. But if the 4805 is showing "Component" on the bottom left of the screen and you're trying to get a picture from your cable box via component m1 then the problem is that the 4805 is not looking at the m1 input and still looking at the actual component input. You need to be on the "Computer" input for the m1 connection.

Ja Phule-- thanks for your help
I will try again after dark-- I have a rule not to turn the lamp on more than once a day.
So, you have NOT said that there is something inherently wrong with converting component video output to the DVI input into the projector. If that is true, then perhaps I do not have the right adapter. The adapter fits fine. It has the 20 pins, cross blade and then four extra pins-- two above the cross blade and two below. I have read that there are several different DVI types, but I am not aware that there is more than one M1 DA. I was a little dismayed when I looked at the M1 DA end of the adapter and saw that the metal frame around the pins had the keystone shape, while the female M1 DA on the projector has a rectangular shape. But it fit fine. It must be the right adapter because the dealer (internet) listed the 4805 as being compatible with it. And so does Infocus in their online store. This is a bit frustrating. Maybe I will go to Circuit City and look at receivers tonight.

Ja Phule-- thanks for your help
I will try again after dark-- I have a rule not to turn the lamp on more than once a day.
So, you have NOT said that there is something inherently wrong with converting component video output to the DVI input into the projector. If that is true, then perhaps I do not have the right adapter. The adapter fits fine. It has the 20 pins, cross blade and then four extra pins-- two above the cross blade and two below. I have read that there are several different DVI types, but I am not aware that there is more than one M1 DA. I was a little dismayed when I looked at the M1 DA end of the adapter and saw that the metal frame around the pins had the keystone shape, while the female M1 DA on the projector has a rectangular shape. But it fit fine. It must be the right adapter because the dealer (internet) listed the 4805 as being compatible with it. And so does Infocus in their online store. This is a bit frustrating. Maybe I will go to Circuit City and look at receivers tonight.

I don't want to say its the adapter until I know you have your setup correct. Right now, it just seems that you just need to select the computer input in order to get a picture. I know some people have used the component m1 adapter as a 2nd component input. The m1 port supports vga, component, and dvi. If you want to go the cheap route, you can just get a manual component switch box that you can find at walmart $25. Radioshack also as a 4x2 component switch that you can switch with using a remote.

Greetings (I don't know how to reference previous post of mine-- shows up in white on new posts)
Anyway, I put the source selection on auto and Ihave no othe "live" signals on. That is, if I have the cable box connected to the M1 DA, then I do not have the DVD power on. So, there is only the one signal to select--- right? Must I specifically select the DVI "Computer" input?
I noticed something that disturbs me-- the DVI input is listed as "1", and so is the component video input. Why is that? Is that causing some kind of problem? I have been reading that the Mi DA input is digital. Is that causing a problem vs. running straight through from component out to component in? Remember, I am outputting from COMPONENT-- on both the cable box and the DVD, but not both at the same time-- and inputting on the M1 DA. My little adapter makes it possible.

I believe you will find that your "little adapter" that will plug into the M1 port and then allows you to plug component cables into it, is meant for use only with an ATI video card, so that you may output vga and turn it into a component signal. I was looking into these for the same reason you are using yours and found out by reading the fine print here and there that the adapter will only work on specific model ATI video cards. You will get no image when going through that adapter unless it is plugged into an ATI card.

Chuck

Chuck/Ja Phule-- thanks for the info. Much of what you guys (gals?) talk about on this forum is way beyond anything I want to get into. My projector works fine and all I need is to come up with a good way to run both my cable box and DVD into the 4805's component input. I will try to get it to work tonight, but if I am out the money for the adapter I will hang onto it-- if I hang out on this site long enough maybe I will be looking at-- what did you call it, Chuck-- an ATI card? But I hope you are right, Ja Phule, and it will eventually work. A cheap switcher at KMart? I have seen the one at Radio Shack and it looks good. I don't know. My receiver is about 8 or 9 years old-- Dolby Digital, but only S Video inputs-- so it might be time to upgrade.
Thanks again for your very quick and friendly responses.
Ed

I believe you will find that your "little adapter" that will plug into the M1 port and then allows you to plug component cables into it, is meant for use only with an ATI video card, so that you may output vga and turn it into a component signal. I was looking into these for the same reason you are using yours and found out by reading the fine print here and there that the adapter will only work on specific model ATI video cards. You will get no image when going through that adapter unless it is plugged into an ATI card.

Chuck

Little different scenario here. I think Ed was talking about the m1 to component adapter. ATI's adapter is a DVI to component adapter, which will not fit into the m1 port of the 4805.

Ja Phule, I believe you are right. I was never able to find the M1 to Component adapter when I was setting up my 4805. All I ever found was the ATI adapter that looks very similar but will only fit a DVI as you stated. I too have an HTPC and a DVD running M1 and component to the 4805.

Chuck

Sorry for any confusion.

ej,

I picked up the 2x4 Rat Shack remote switcher. It works well aisde from other remote signals tripping it and I lose the signal. For example, if I hit "channel down" several times while scrolling through my Tivo Now pLaying lift, it will switch to the DVD output, etc. Its easy enough to switch back, but irritating nonetheless.

I thought I find someone here in this group that is working with scalers and capture cards? Anyone Anyone? :confused:

I would start with a basic pci tuner card, i have a hauppauge card with the 878 chip, the quality with dscaler is great.

I also have two hauppauge pvr cards (the 250 and the 150). These do realtime hardware mpeg2 encoding. These are great for time shifting and general tv recording. I use GB-PVR with xmltv tv guide. This lets you record two programs at once, timeshifting, etc. Great with analog cable

The quality of the standard tuner card is better than the pvr cards because the picture is digitized and sent straight to dscaler/video card. The pvr cards digitize the picture, encode to mpeg2, then goes on to the videocard. The encoding reduces the picture quality, normally softens the picture, don't get the same crisp picture as the basic card. The output from the pvr cards is great but is different the a basic tuner card. The recording quality is great but not excellent(like a bought dvd would be).

There is no delay through the basic tuner card, important for playing video games through it, makes sound setup easier in some cases, not big issues though.

I had an all-in-wonder 9800 card a while ago, it has a good tuner and mpeg2 recording functions, picture was a bit on the soft side for my liking, you have to use the ati software with this card which was a major draw back.

I have a sigma designs xcard for dvd and general file playback, with component output to the projector, the quality from this is excellent, only drawback is the software for the card, no updates from sigma. But I would recommend this card for its picture quality/output.

So I would start with a basic tv tuner card with dscaler, lots of ouput options in dscaler, aspect adjustment, filters etc. I find the hauppauge cards good all round, the wintv software ain't too bad either.

If pvr functions are important the hauppauge pvr cards do excellent hardware encoding with next to no drain on cpu power, no jerky video, easy to transfer recordings to dvd too, The picture quality is very good especially from a good source

All-in-wonder cards do a good all round job too

Sounds like its either a problem with your dvd player, the player's component output, the component cable, or the 4805's component input. Set the dvd player to 480p and see if the problem is still there. Try the dvd player over svideo/composite and see if you get the same thing.

I have tried my dvd player(s-video) with an infocus x1 and it does not have the problem. I had a look earlier on my system and had the same effect whether using s-vid or component inputs. I have taken a little video clip and some pics.
I might try and upload earlier firmware to see if it changes. I have firmware 1.2.1 with boot version 1.3 and oem version 1.2.

Just built myself a Hush Box, 19" wide, 30" long and 15" tall. It is built out of 1/2" plywood and is lined with 1 1/2" styrofoam insulation. I have put a 4" duct out of the back that goes into another room and connects to a 120V 4" fan. My question is how do I know if the projector is cool enough? If I were to put a small electronic thermometer into the box, what temp should it be? I know that there is good airflow because I can see air being sucked in through the front of the box (small opening for oicture image) and I can feel warm air blowing out of the duct in the other room.

Cheers

Just built myself a Hush Box, 19" wide, 30" long and 15" tall. It is built out of 1/2" plywood and is lined with 1 1/2" styrofoam insulation. I have put a 4" duct out of the back that goes into another room and connects to a 120V 4" fan. My question is how do I know if the projector is cool enough? If I were to put a small electronic thermometer into the box, what temp should it be? I know that there is good airflow because I can see air being sucked in through the front of the box (small opening for oicture image) and I can feel warm air blowing out of the duct in the other room.

Cheers

The 4805 will run its fans louder if its not getting enough cooling. Try to see if you can hear any change in fan speed (though it may be hard since you have a hush box).

Thanks,

That higher fan speed is usually associated with the higher power setting (which I like). any idea what temperature the projector's local environment should be? Is 80' F a good ballpark? If I were to insatll a digital inside/outside thermometer, where should I place the actual temp sensor?

Thanks much for any help.

Thanks,

That higher fan speed is usually associated with the higher power setting (which I like). any idea what temperature the projector's local environment should be? Is 80' F a good ballpark? If I were to insatll a digital inside/outside thermometer, where should I place the actual temp sensor?

Thanks much for any help.

I think this question would be answered best by Infocus themself.

gposner--
Thanks for the info on the switcher. I currently have a Radio Shack switcher with 4 S-Video in and 2 out. It works very well, so I don't have any qualms about buying RS-- except for a nagging feeling that I will lose SOME resolution no matter what I buy. MY other option, of course, is a new AV receiver with component video switching. There are several available with 3 in, 1 out-- at around 300 bucks. My current receiver (5.1 digital) is about 8 years old, so.... I don't know, audio is not as important to me as it once was. The PICTURE, the PICTURE! I would much rather spend the money on improving the video.

No problem.

One other thing to consider about the switcher is the blue lights on it are VERY bright. Due to the location of the switcher at my place, it really bothered me so I placed electrical tape over the portions of the disply so just a little bit of light peaks out.

I would have prefered to pick up a new component switching receiver to replace my 6 year old Kenwood HTiB receiver, but that wouldn't have passed muster with the wife shortly after picking up the 4805. Maybe next year!

Well I just got my sp4805 took it out of the box and it was amazing I never thought something this cheap would project a picture like that ...all I have is a fta fortec satelite, and a apex dvd player and the picture still blew me away I gave it the terminator 2 test while my family was here and they were amazed!!!!! Totally worth it if there are any newbies like me ..take the jump you wont regret it...Im gonna set up a htpc eventually....is there like a settings area anywhere on the site for the gamma and all that I got a 120 inch screen .....The site is awesome to by the way....

I have one "issue" and maybe its me. I can't seem to get the focus "just right". I am projecting on a 92in Graywolf. Perhaps its because I had a 61in RPTV prior to this. The RPTV is probably going to have a crisper picture due to the size, but I wish I could sharpen up the 4805. Could it be an issue that it is mounted just beyond the throw distance and is zoomed all the way down to fit the screen size. Any suggestions?

According to InFocus, the closest your 4805 can be to a 92" 16x9 screen is right at 14.25'. If your closer than that, you will not get a true focus.

Also, keep in mind, having it "zoomed" all the way in is the best way to run a PJ. Just make sure your atleast 15' away. (To give yourself a little wiggle\focus room)

I am actually a touch too far from the screen such that the image bleeds onto the black border of my screen. So, are you saying this should provide the best focus since it is zoomed to the smallest image possible from this throw distance?

Thanks,

That higher fan speed is usually associated with the higher power setting (which I like). .

I can't for the life of me think of a good use for the hi-power setting except trying to squeeze the last ouce of life out of an old bulb, or bright daylight tuse, or a really, REALLY, big screen size.

Hi-power shortens bulb life a lot, and most of us are using an ND2 filter to cut the light output on LOW power as it is.

-W

Hi-power shortens bulb life a lotThis is incorrect. InFocus now state that lamp life is not shortened by operating on high power.

Hmmmm That's new news to me.... but I'll take your word for it of course.
That said, I still can't think of many reasons to run Hi-power as a regular SOP, unless you wish you bought a plasma TV instead of a PJ. :D

-W

Hmmmm That's new news to me.... but I'll take your word for it of course.
That said, I still can't think of many reasons to run Hi-power as a regular SOP, unless you wish you bought a plasma TV instead of a PJ. :D

-W

High power does burn down the lamp faster - what Infocus did do is change their "marketed" lamp spec which some have interpereted as a low/hi power guarantee - to just use the lower number. They throw a big disclaimer on it now telling you it is an average not a guarantee - YMMV depending on how nice you are to the lamp. The thing sounds like a vacuum cleaner in High Power - which is a better reason not to use it!

Much like McDonalds sells cofee cups that say - caution this cofee is hot (after the old lady sued them for spilling her coffee)

Gotta love the marketing boys!! :(

-W

Well im going to take the plunge and buy the 4805 next week.

Quick questions.

I know this unit is abnormally loud for a projector. Is it the color wheel that makes alot of the noise or is it just the fan? My main consern is if the color wheel is loud or not.

I already ordered the infocus 76" screen. I cant go any bigger due to the size of the room. Im assuming econo mode will be plenty bright enough for a 76" screen correct?

Or should I just wait for the new model to ship since the 4805 has been discontinued?

Well im going to take the plunge and buy the 4805 next week.

Quick questions.

I know this unit is abnormally loud for a projector. Is it the color wheel that makes alot of the noise or is it just the fan? My main consern is if the color wheel is loud or not.

I already ordered the infocus 76" screen. I cant go any bigger due to the size of the room. Im assuming econo mode will be plenty bright enough for a 76" screen correct?

Or should I just wait for the new model to ship since the 4805 has been discontinued?

As far as I know it's the fan that makes most of the noise, although the colour wheel probably add a little bit too. The fan noise from the projector is not a high pitched fan noise more of a hum. In high power mode I find it much too loud for movie viewing, in standard low power mode it's fine.

I'm projecting a 92" inch picture onto a cream wall and it's a bit on the bright side for my taste (will be getting a filter). Eco mode for you should be plenty bright & colourful at 76" in a reasonably dark room. Your screen gain might be a factor though, I would guess you'd want around unity gain (1.0) or below, preferably for a good picture

If you're happy with the resolution of the projector and the features it has why wait? The picture quality is very good and it seems to be highly rated by a lot of people :)

gposner--
Thanks for the info on the switcher. I currently have a Radio Shack switcher with 4 S-Video in and 2 out. It works very well, so I don't have any qualms about buying RS-- except for a nagging feeling that I will lose SOME resolution no matter what I buy. MY other option, of course, is a new AV receiver with component video switching. There are several available with 3 in, 1 out-- at around 300 bucks. My current receiver (5.1 digital) is about 8 years old, so.... I don't know, audio is not as important to me as it once was. The PICTURE, the PICTURE! I would much rather spend the money on improving the video.

Well, if you can get a Joytech 240C then you cannot see any signal loss even if there is. It has a feature to boost weak signal as they say but so far complete remote switching control and no impact to PQ for just over 100 bucks.

Well im going to take the plunge and buy the 4805 next week.

Quick questions.

I know this unit is abnormally loud for a projector. Is it the color wheel that makes alot of the noise or is it just the fan? My main consern is if the color wheel is loud or not.

I already ordered the infocus 76" screen. I cant go any bigger due to the size of the room. Im assuming econo mode will be plenty bright enough for a 76" screen correct?

Or should I just wait for the new model to ship since the 4805 has been discontinued?
I dont see why people complain about the fan noise I cant even hear it until I put my ear up to it....

I love my IF 4805 but fan noise could be lower and in fact will
be when IF introduces thier new line-up.If you can't hear
the fan with your ear right up to the projector then you
should get your hearing checked.

Well, if you can get a Joytech 240C then you cannot see any signal loss even if there is. It has a feature to boost weak signal as they say but so far complete remote switching control and no impact to PQ for just over 100 bucks.
Thanks,
The members on this site talk about all kinds of brand names that I have never heard of. I don't exactly live in the sticks, but where do I find this Joytech in Rochester, NY? Did you buy it online? And is it worth the extra bucks over the Radio Shack? Incidentally, the Walmart switcher is out of stock at my local store. I looked at a really nice Onkyo receiver at Circuit City-- it has 3 component ins. I guess we are not supposed to talk about prices, are we? But it was not expensive-- surprising for such an upmarket brand. The big thing that stops me from replacing my receiver is that component inputs are only an interim way of getting HD. I guess HDMI is the ultimate. Once I get a true HD TV I will go that way-- and buy a receiver to handle HDMI switching. (I have noticed that some receivers don't have S-Video inputs, which I think is jumping the gun a little too quickly.
I have put a service request into Infocus, asking why the adapter I bought (component to M1 DA ) does not procuce a picture. I will go from there.

Just built myself a Hush Box, 19" wide, 30" long and 15" tall. It is built out of 1/2" plywood and is lined with 1 1/2" styrofoam insulation. I have put a 4" duct out of the back that goes into another room and connects to a 120V 4" fan. My question is how do I know if the projector is cool enough? If I were to put a small electronic thermometer into the box, what temp should it be? I know that there is good airflow because I can see air being sucked in through the front of the box (small opening for oicture image) and I can feel warm air blowing out of the duct in the other room.

Cheers

I thought the 4805 intakes from the back and exhaust out the front!? It sounds like your drawing air away from the intake and allowing the exhaust just build up.
Am I wrong?!

Sean

I dont see why people complain about the fan noise I cant even hear it until I put my ear up to it....

This scares me... Scares me that you have hearing problems. :)

I love my IF 4805 but fan noise could be lower and in fact will
be when IF introduces thier new line-up.If you can't hear
the fan with your ear right up to the projector then you
should get your hearing checked.


:D ha! actually the 4805 i have is okay regarding fan noise ,quite moments in a movie you can hear it (annoying) but otherwise its okay :)

Yes the 4805 makes some noise. No it's not like a jet taking off (unless you put it into high power mode) I have my unit sitting on a table and I sit 3 feet to the left of it. Once the sound from the movie or TV kick in you don't hear it anymore unless you sit there trying to.

The same is for SDE unless I'm really trying to look for SDE I don't see it anymore.

I've learned to just sit back and enjoy the MOVIE, not contiually critique my setup during the movie itself. I save tweaking for times other then watching.

The members on this site talk about all kinds of brand names that I have never heard of. I don't exactly live in the sticks, but where do I find this Joytech in Rochester, NY?Dear Sir/Madam

Thank you for contacting JOYTECH Technical Support.

Thank you for your e-mail. We are currently in the process of creating an online store for our products, which hopefully will be going live in the next few days.

In the meantime our products are available from:

U.S Shops:

Best Buy, Circuit City, Fry's Electronics, FYE - For Your Entertainment, Hasting, KB Toys, Meijer, Wal-Mart,
Online: Buy.com, Bestbuy.com, Outpost.com, Walmart.com,

Canadian Shops:

Best Buy Canada, EB Games Canada, Future Shop, Microplay, Radio Shack, Rogers Video, Superclub Videotron, Wal-Mart Canada
Online: Bestbuy.ca, Amazon.ca

Prices do vary from retailer to retailer.

We hope that this is satisfactory, and that you continue to use and enjoy all of JOYTECH's peripherals.

Kind Regards,
JOYTECH Technical Support

I tried them all, almost all of those listed shops are backordered and have been backordered for many months for the 240C. Maybe they are saving all future items for their online store. One shop also automatically cancelled my backorder since it was over their 45 days limit.

I tried them all, almost all of those listed shops are backordered and have been backordered for many months for the 240C. Maybe they are saving all future items for their online store. One shop also automatically cancelled my backorder since it was over their 45 days limit.

Are you only limited to the 240c model? This one seems cool:
http://www.buy.com/prod/Joytech_Xbox_360_Control_Center/q/loc/108/201975208.html

Well, that one has never been in stock AFAIK. It says 1 to 2 weeks but has been that way for months. Also, the 240C has 7 inputs whereas the xbox one I think has only 5. Also, the 240C matches my AV stuff nicer.

Ah, good point, didn't notice that.

Here is a picture of my DIY screen. Since I live in an apartment I chose to paint the wall with 2 coats of behr ultra pure white flat. I put a black felt border around it. The screen itself is 106 inches and I'm also using an nd2 filter. The clarity of the picture does the actual PQ no good.

BTW, the reason I'm standing in the pic is to give people an idea of how big the screen actually is.

Edit: I just noticed that it looks like spiderman is grabbing my junk. hmmmm... no wonder why i felt like shooting my "web" after I took this picture.

Sorry, I couldn't help but crack that joke.

Thanks,
The members on this site talk about all kinds of brand names that I have never heard of. I don't exactly live in the sticks, but where do I find this Joytech in Rochester, NY? Did you buy it online?

Try eBay. There are some new and used ones there. Keeps selling out quickly there too. Search for Joytech Control Center.

Hi, I purchased a 4805 refurb last month, Everything worked perfect, I love it. So I had it hooked up to my HTPC through M1-DVI cable (25ft - from monoprice), I also used the same cable with my cable box. and the picture was flawless. It worked fine for about 2 weeks, One day I happened to switch the DVI cable from my HTPC to my cable box and noticed a little sparkle. And I was not able to get a picture again from my cable box or HTPC. I figured I shorted out the cable, Since the M1-VGA connector that came with the PJ still worked with my PC, I figured since the M1 port is still working that it was definately the cable So I got a new cable from monoprice (35ft this time becuase the first one was a little short anyway). And to no avail - still no picture. Has anyone had any experience with this? I called up infocus and they want me to send it in for repair wich takes like 3-4 weeks!!! that sucks!!.. can anyone explain what might have happened or if there is a way i can fix this. it seems to me that the projector will not recongnize a digital signal anymore. Anything I can try? Pleasee any help is appreciated!!

thanks.

I bought the Radio Shack component switcher. 4 in 2 out. It works well, but it never shuts off-- a bright blue light showing the source selected is always lit. Don't need a night light in the living room now.
I need to lower the brightness (a filter I guess). I have been reluctant (I am paying big bucks for this bulb to burn out and you want me to WHAT?-- cut the light output in half!) I have fooled with brightness and contrast, but still can't get the glare out of the Olympic snow. When I switch to the standard broadcast the glare is gone. What gives?
Also, I switched my DVD player to 480i, as recommended so as to let the 4805 do the deinterlacing. Well, the picture got jittery, titles were hopping, etc. Switched back to 480p and all is OK. What is that all about? I guess I don't know much yet.
Now that I am running both DVD and cable box through the component input on 4805, when I switched sources I got colored lines running across the screen. I had to direct the pj to the correct source. First time that has happened. I guess because everything is going through comp. input, the pj doesn't always know I have switched from 1080i to 480p. Not a big problem, just a little chink in the 4805 armor (so far it has been a perfect little box.)

Hey Everyone- I Was Looking For The Cheapest Place To Purchase A Replacement Lamp For My 4805. I Was Able To Use It Up To 3700 Hrs Before It Quit, Thanks In Advance For Your Replies.

If you end up going with the Joytech, make sure that the store has a good return policy. I tried their remote controlled switcher, and I got a TON of noise introduced to my picture. (like a thin layer of snow/interference). Thought I had a bad one, so I exchanged and it was the same thing.
I ended up going with a basic JVC component switcher where you have to press the buttons on the front of it, and it works fine. Can't tell the difference that it's actually in line. obviously, YMMV

Yes, I have heard that about the series2 but have not had that problem with the 240C. Is it the 240C you get noise? My PQ actually looks better through it, I guess with the weak signal boost circuitry it has built in.

Hey Everyone- I Was Looking For The Cheapest Place To Purchase A Replacement Lamp For My 4805. I Was Able To Use It Up To 3700 Hrs Before It Quit, Thanks In Advance For Your Replies.


try http://www.partstore.com/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductSKU=8218982&ProductType=ACCS&ModelID=515314

try www.partstore.comFor a better deal, try Rainbow Technology (http://store.raindroptechnology.com/-strse-1181/InFocus-SP-dsh-4805-Replacement-Lamp/Detail.bok) or OnSale.com (http://www.onsale.com/onsale/shop/detail.asp?dpno=513405&store=onsale&source=bwbfroogle&adcampaign=email,bwbfroogle&wt.mc_id=bwbfroogle).

So where can you get a ND2 filter from? Are they all the same???

I couldnt wait any longer so I picked up the sp4805 today. I was pleased to gear that it was not as loud as I thought it was going to be although I will be changing the internal fan with a panaflo hydro-weave bearing which will probably cut the noise in half.

I still see rainbows once in a while with this sp4805 but not as bad as on my Optoma ep719 (2x wheel) and for me they have been reduced enough to be a non-issue.

Oh and I almost forgot.

Why is it when I set the sp4805 to native resolution DVDs play in the center of the screen???

Is the DVD player sending a lower resolution signal or something? Im using componet.

Why is it when I set the sp4805 to native resolution DVDs play in the center of the screen???On your DVD player, set the TV type to 16:9.

Oh and I almost forgot.

Why is it when I set the sp4805 to native resolution DVDs play in the center of the screen???

Is the DVD player sending a lower resolution signal or something? Im using componet.

480i/480p is 720x480. The 4805 is 854x480. Set the 4805 to 16:9 and don't worry about using native.

Greetings
Does anyone know the difference between sp-lamp-09 (x1,x2,4800) and the sp-lamp-021 (4805) ?? Mistakingly ordered 09 for my 4805..looks the same..mounts the same..the 4800 has the same hrs. rating as my 4805. Has anyone tried this lamp in their 4805

thanks
Well, after further investigation, iI discovered the x1 and the 4800 use a 150 w. lamp, and the 4805 has a 200 w. lamp, but the lumins rating is twice as high on the x1 ?? Does that make sense ? If I change the molex plug connections on the 009 lamp, it will work in the 4805 (not a big deal). Would I notice a hugh difference in briteness/pix quality using a 150 w. lamp ? I would just return it to the place I bought it, but they want a $45 restocking fee plus shipping. Then I would have to re-order from some other place, as they don't stock the 021 lamp. Anyone had any experience with this situtation ?

Thanks for any help

Oh and I almost forgot.

Why is it when I set the sp4805 to native resolution DVDs play in the center of the screen???

Is the DVD player sending a lower resolution signal or something? Im using componet.

For the original firmware V1.02 the native aspect ratio will correct a 4:3 picture streched to 16:9 aspect (ie. a picture where the people look too fat :) )

As far as I remember, for the newer firmware v1.13 for a 4:3 picture, the native aspect setting will give you about a 15:9 or 14:9 aspect picture chopping off a bit of the top and bottom of the picture. Sort of an inbetween setting between 16:9 letterbox and 4:3 settings.

You should be able to find a ND2 filter on ebay/internet or maybe ask at some camera shops. You want a size that will fit over the lens, 62mm. The Hoya 62mm seems to be what most go for, do a search of this thread or the original 4805 thread for "hoya" and you'll find more info

Well, after further investigation, iI discovered the x1 and the 4800 use a 150 w. lamp, and the 4805 has a 200 w. lamp, but the lumins rating is twice as high on the x1 ?? Does that make sense ? If I change the molex plug connections on the 009 lamp, it will work in the 4805 (not a big deal). Would I notice a hugh difference in briteness/pix quality using a 150 w. lamp ? I would just return it to the place I bought it, but they want a $45 restocking fee plus shipping. Then I would have to re-order from some other place, as they don't stock the 021 lamp. Anyone had any experience with this situtation ?

Thanks for any help

The X1 has twice the lumins because it has a white segment in its color wheel. The white segment will make the picture brighter but will washout colors, contrast, and will makes your whites too bright.

The X1 is a buisness projector BTW hence the white segement

Well, after further investigation, iI discovered the x1 and the 4800 use a 150 w. lamp, and the 4805 has a 200 w. lamp, but the lumins rating is twice as high on the x1 ?? Does that make sense ? If I change the molex plug connections on the 009 lamp, it will work in the 4805 (not a big deal). Would I notice a hugh difference in briteness/pix quality using a 150 w. lamp ? I would just return it to the place I bought it, but they want a $45 restocking fee plus shipping. Then I would have to re-order from some other place, as they don't stock the 021 lamp. Anyone had any experience with this situtation ?

Thanks for any help

Don't be screwing with the design of your projector - unless you are out of warranty and you don't mind expensive doorstops. Put your wrong lamp up on AVS classifieds - many still have their X1's.

I just went to turn on my 4805. The fan came on HI, the bulb didn't try to strike, and the LED was a steady green.

I unplugged it and am waiting 1/2 hour to try it again... any ideas???

-W

Pray for my PJ please..... I have a LotRings-athon set for a week from today.