Well, what if I'm looking for the best possible picture quality... but using only my component cables??? (See my above post for the reasons why I probably won't upgrade to a DVI/HDMI outputting DVD player.) Do you have any suggestions, then, for a good DVD player??? Any opinions on the LG players I mentioned in the previous post, Ja Pule???

Thanks again, Ja Phule, for all your help answering my questions!!! :D

Most upconverting players have a picture that is not better than a good 480i dvd player fed to the 4805. Many of the upconverting players that upconvert use a cheap deinterlacer and scaler that is far worse than what you have in the 4805's Faroudja processing. Remember, upconverting players aren't needed for the 4805 since it's only an edtv resolution of 854x480.

So if you want the best picture quality over component, then you should get a dvd player with a good component 480i output or one with a good deinterlacer that will do 480p. Some of the older panasonics have good 480i but are harder to come by like the xp30 and rp91.

Since you are using the m1 from your computer, why not use your computer as your dvd player? Pixel map to 848x480 and that will give you a pretty good picture.

Do you think the upconverted 1080i or 720p image sent over the component cable would work?Unless you are using a very wide bandwidth CRT-based display with no integral scaler, or a digital display with an extremely bad scaling circuitry (which is very rare), "upscaling" is a crock! Mass market BS.

"Upscaling" is like lottery tickets - a tax on the poor and uneducated with a vanishingly small chance of benefit and a very large certainty that your money has been wasted.

IMHO.

You need a basic DVD player with excellent 480i output over component; the Faroudja deinterlacer in the SP4805 will do a great job!

I'll leave it to others to suggest which model to choose.

Well, i´m not alone...

I find the 132 picture a lot worst than 102, basically the Picture Sharpness... it was really blury compared to 132. This make the picture looks washed out...

i tried on 480i and 480p, on 480i i didn´t notice as bad as 480p.

It was all blury, so blury that i almost got none Jaggies :)... but was too much.. i had to go back to 102.

I guess we are the minority here...

Oh this is the only downside i found, i didn´t have any aritifacts or nothing, only when the picture was setting the image the first few secs, then it correct this. But the Sharpness was enough to make me go back to 102


i don,t understand the comment about bluryness i had the old firmware where it would pulse or "flash in dark scenes, this new firmware took care of that with the same pic i had before(old firmware) same sharpness colors etc, just running component video without being annoyed with the pulses in some scenes(dark) is this lack of pic quality running dvi or? because i,m not seeing these problems at my end anyone care to comment? :)

bennan, I hate to disagree with two of the most respected posters in this thread (Cavu and Ja Phule) :) But I have personally tried the LG 511 with the 4805 upconverted to 1080i over component, and was very pleased with the picture. Note my previous player was the Toshiba 3960 which was known for a good 480i picture. The LG 511 with upconversion and macrovision hack applied was significantly better than the Toshiba. Theoretically I shouldn't notice a difference with the resolution of the projector, but I must say the LG picture was good. Don't get me wrong the picture it is not perfect, after calibrating with AVIA the saturation and tint is slightly off, and since there are no picture controls within the player there is no way to adjust 1080i pic. Also sometimes objects in foreground appeared less sharp I'm not sure what that can be attributed to. Someone looking for a solid picture over component unable or unwilling to use M1 to DVI cable should consider this player.
With all that being said, the LG 511 maybe going back to Bestbuy. I've ordered a Bravo D1 from Newegg based on Cavu's informative posts. So welcome me to the Bravo/4805 club :) I've been researching the Bravo, Oppo and HTPC for months and finally decided to pull the trigger on the Bravo. Cavu I'm looking forward to your detailed instructions on the PS modification and thank you for your contributions to this forum. Todd

I, for one, find it too much of a hassle to climb up a high horse to begin with :D



lol.

anyone know what the "YUV input" is? It's supposed to be improved in the new Firmware 1.3.2...... I'm happy with the 1.2.1 firmware. Just trying to see if I need to upgrade.

Check this out. YUV (http://www.google.com/search?hs=jjG&hl=en&lr=&safe=off&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla%3Aen-US%3Aofficial&q=define%3A+yuv&btnG=Search)

I didn't know what it was either. Pretty interesting.

See Joe, I'm giving back to the community.

"Upscaling" is like lottery tickets - a tax on the poor and uneducated with a vanishingly small chance of benefit and a very large certainty that your money has been wasted.


VOLUNTARY tax.

Thought you should know that I am NOT going to purchase a D1 because I do NOT want to question whether all my hard work tweaking was in vain. ;)

1. You want to set each of the gains to the same number and each of the offsets to the same number - hence your greyscale will stay the same.

2. Well, it depends. If you are running overlay, then theoretically you should not have to change anything. If vmr9, then you will have to restrict black and white levels to within range of 16-235 from 0-255. Again, this is why ZP and TT are so valuable - you know right where you are and can switch back and forth depending on taste. And the standard now is vmr9 anyway.

The easiest way to do this is with the reverse grey ramp pattern. Start by standing a foot away from the screen with remote in hand. You will want all the white boxes to the right of the three dots to "just" blend together (including the box with the three dots above it). So, if they are already blended together, then lower the gains in tandem until they appear different shades. Then slightly increase in tandem until they just blend together.

If they are different shades, then slowly raise in tandem until they just blend together - this is where the famous 58 RGB gains comes from.

For offsets, same thing. Just remember that gains affect offsets and vice versa, so you will have to go back and forth until they are perfect.

3. Yes, because over 480p, the 4805's sat/hue are unavailable.

4. Yes.

We'll get ya squared away. ;)

Geno,

Thank you so much.

As always you have the detailed but precise explanation to my queries.

I mentioned in one of my posts about my dedicated theater underway. I was getting the expert opinion on the paint for the walls and ceiling. Smithfarmer had suggested Midnight blue for the walls.

What are my best options. Just to give you an idea, here are the room specs.

1. Size 18' x 12 '
2. Located in basement. No window. zero natural light.
3. I can paint any color I want to. (Out of WAF approval area).

I have already confused myself from Burgundy to forest green, but noting is clicking as it's hard to visualize.

As the rrom is 100% light control, too dark colors could make it a cave. I was looking for a balance. Please help...

:confused:

Well, I am by all means not reluctant to give the serial number. What I am reluctant to do is take down my ceiling mounted projector to get to it. I know it was my own fault for not writing it down and or registering after I purchased it. I have purchased LOTS! of computer / AV equipment and this is the first time I've had to register to get a firmware download. Anyway, so I guess that's a no from you then cavu?

Check on the packaging box it came in (if you have not yet thrown it away :D )

ok , some of you may think this funny, this is GAWDS honest TRUTH
I have my projector celing mounted in my home attic theater.
In the theater I have to deal with two windows I turned the projector pointing
out the window my neigbors house has a side that faces me totaly white vinal
I must be at least 30 feet from my window to his house I filled up the entire side of his
house with scenes from indiana jones!! I didn't project it too long because i didn't want
to give people driving the idea that it was a DRIVE IN!! (btw the picture beleive it or not looked great!!

Bill -

Heh. You have your (drum roll)........ Toys In The Attic.

"In the attic's light".... kinda applies. :D

-W

Holy crap, I didn't even think to look at the box. Well I guess I can register now. Thanks, btw, for posting the firmware. I already made the upgrade. I'm not 100% sure if I like the changes.

When I got my PJ, I was fascinated/enthralled at the wide wonder I had purchased. When it came, I first examined the box, then opened it, set the PJ aside, and examined the contents and papers. Then I turned my full attention to the PJ and thought about a fast source to "see what it's got". It was prolly 1/2 hout before I plugged it in. I spent a full minute examining the box before I opened it. :)

-W (who bought a Honda XR-600 in the box in '87 and spent about 3 minutes looking at the box/crate before I cut the cardboard and pulled out the final assembly sheet. It's just who I am... )

On another note, I've noticed an increasing amount of "attitude" on this forum. I'm not trying to start a flame war but, this is a community. Maybe some of us should get off of our high horses.

You've never even smelled a real flame war unless you played Air-Warrior and participated in the forums in the early/mid 90's.

EA may have bought and killed the game.. but the old community has a "hidden" forum where we still hone our skills at "creative argumentation and debate". Asbestos undies are mandatory issue. <EG> :)

-W

So the flashing/pulsing really bothers me and I was thrilled to see the new firmware out that is supposed to fix it... Flash went smoothly but still saw a lot of flickering shortly after starting up again. No drastic change in colors or brigtness like others saw and I actually didn't check if my settings stayed the same (I run pretty much stock) but it was upside down (I have ceilng mount).

After about an hour it seems the flashing diminished however I have noticed it seems to be intermittant. My GF turned off the pj while I stepped out so I don't feel like turning it on again. I will look into it tomorrow but it seems no downsides yet, and hoping still the pulsing is gone...

... the Faroudja deinterlacer in the SP4805 will do a great job!
...

I stopped outputting 480p from my DVD player just for this reason. At first, I was happy with it because, after calibrating both 480i and 480p output, the picture seemed "punchier" with 480p output. After a while, though, my eyes started picking up processing flaws - the most obvious being macroblocking. This doesn't happen often - but when you learn to see it, you begin to look for it, which in turn really interferes with just enjoying the show. I'm much happier now with 480i output from the player and let 4805 handle deinterlacing.

I can see the difference with this quick testing: pause the picture at the end credit and switch the player's output between 480i and 480p back and forth and compare. At 480p, the white text on black background is all jaggy. Switch to 480i, the text edges are smooth as they should be. 4805 is definitely deinteracing better than my DVD player.

Apparently, the scaler in 4805 is also pretty good. The picture I preferred the most was outputting DVD playback from my computer through DVI to M1 (people with more discerning eyes would disagree with me over at the HTPC-Mac forum). Unfortunately, my M1-DVI doesn't work any more, so I am back to mostly using my DVD player. However, outputting 640x480 through VGA to M1, with 4805 set to "Letterbox" aspect ratio, the DVD picture still looks quite good. Only real flaw I see is in really high-frequency portions of an image (e.g. very closely placed near-horizontal lines, like mini blinds in a scene,) and when a scene remains mostly static for a while, you'll see what looks to be some jitter here and there (pretty minor - this might be some slight noise in VGA signal rather than scaling artifact.) Overall, I think this does illustrate good scaling done by 4805.

joe

Wow, no bids on the D1's yet at that place that U Bid on them. I'm still getting one (waiting to switch my billing adress), but does everyone know something I don't? A reason not to order?

The lamp is rated at 3,000hrs (http://store.infocus.com/escalate/store/DetailPage?pls=infocus&bc=infocus&pc=SP-4805&clist=0dbb50001403e0&ret=Projectors-Home%20Theater&pls5catname=Projectors-Home%20Theater&tab=spec).

It's also said to last upto 4,000 hours.

It's also said to last upto 4,000 hours.And your point is?

Assuming that the rated 3,000 hours was determined as the mean life of the lamps, then standard deviation suggests that some will last as long as 6,000 hours and that as many will last to 4,000 hours as died at 2,000, etc.

My point simply was that the lamp is rated at 3,000 hours - not 4,000 hours as you originally stated.

does everyone know something I don't?Well .... apparently spyder696969 is buying all of them and sending them to me to mod. I really am a sucker for punishment!!

If you want one, you'd better hurry and beat him to the punch!! ;)

i don,t understand the comment about bluryness i had the old firmware where it would pulse or "flash in dark scenes, this new firmware took care of that with the same pic i had before(old firmware) same sharpness colors etc, just running component video without being annoyed with the pulses in some scenes(dark) is this lack of pic quality running dvi or? because i,m not seeing these problems at my end anyone care to comment? :)
For some reason on my Pj 132 firmware is more blurry than my 102, why? i don´t know... but some other people experience this as well..

Unfortunley i have to rollback to the original firmware....

I don´t have the Flicker problem, since it is 102 but i miss the later features...

Maybe i´ll have better luck on next firmware.

PD, to give you an idea of how my PQ look, just defocus the PJ a bit... and you will see.
I really notice on Xbox system 480i and 480p... on Dvd player it´s look the same.. i think.

REVISED D1 MOD NOTES & CAUTION

I've typed this and mentioned it on the phone so many times its probably important to post it for those that don't contact me:

When replacing C1022 (1000uf @ 16v) and any other necessary cap, use a replacement with a higher rated voltage - I use 35v or 50v (http://www.thesourcecc.com/images/Online/27/2729014l.jpg).

If the replacement part is physically larger than the original: Carefully bend the leads at 90 degrees (http://www.flying-colors.org/cap.jpg) making sure they don't "short" together or touch any other component and set the replacement on its side tight to the board. In that instance, you should probably slide a bit of "spaghetti insulation" or heat shrink (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?parentPage=search&cp=&productId=2102875&kw=heat+shrink&tab=summary) (or use some plastic insulation stripped off a piece of small solid core wire) over the exposed leads of the new part. Then get a piece of foam the size of your little finger nail and squeeze it between the cap and the components below to prevent vibration. (The PS is a HF unit and you don't want the cap to physically vibrate.)

Also note that some of the other components are cemented to the board and that is not cap leakage.

Try not to remove the DC connectors as they are often glued in place too. Just pull out the two AC plugs and flip the board over on top on the loader to work on it.

CAUTION. Make sure you observe that the polarity of the replacement matches the original part!!!!

And your point is?

Assuming that the rated 3,000 hours was determined as the mean life of the lamps, then standard deviation suggests that some will last as long as 6,000 hours and that as many will last to 4,000 hours as died at 2,000, etc.

My point simply was that the lamp is rated at 3,000 hours - not 4,000 hours as you originally stated.

I think he was thinking about the history. In the beginning, the 4805 was advertised as speced for a 4000hr bulb life. Later on, that was revised to 3000, prolly after they had more empirical date to look at. I shudder to think how dim a 6000hr bulb might be..... someday we'll probably find out - here on this board.

-W

aaranddeeman

Take a look at my gallery - my walls are hunter green. I got WAF to paint it that color. I personally wanted Burgundy, but WAF wasn't on board.

I like the deep greens and deep reds. I beleive MaximAVS has a gallery with red walls in his HT (if I remember correctly). Not a big fan of blue, but that may be personal choice - I think it is depressing.

Also depends on your screen. A grey screen allows lighter color walls. A white screen (Dalite DaMatte, for example or straight BO cloth) with .8-1.0 gain and your best off with dark walls for those inky blacks.

Only other suggestion is that I recommend you paint the ceiling as well.

And your point is?

Assuming that the rated 3,000 hours was determined as the mean life of the lamps, then standard deviation suggests that some will last as long as 6,000 hours and that as many will last to 4,000 hours as died at 2,000, etc.

My point simply was that the lamp is rated at 3,000 hours - not 4,000 hours as you originally stated.

My point is that I've seen it rated to 4,000 hours in many different listings. Anyways I'm going to see how close to 4,000 I can get.

Question for you Bravo D1 owners?I loaded the new firmware that Cavu sent me,thanks Cavu.But I don't see where I can select 48hz,just 852x480@60hz.Do I need to do a hack?I poped in Vertical Limit Superbit and it looked very good.The OPPO looks good to though.

My bulb just went yesterday and I had around 3400 hours. I'll know whenever the bulb comes in. I hope I don't have to wait too long. I should have had a back-up, but I'm really thinking of upgrading and wasn't sure I wanted two projectors.

You need a basic DVD player with excellent 480i output over component; the Faroudja deinterlacer in the SP4805 will do a great job!

I'll leave it to others to suggest which model to choose.


Anyone have any suggestions for a "normal" DVD player with great 480i output over component??? :)

My bulb just went yesterday and I had around 3400 hours. I'll know whenever the bulb comes in. I hope I don't have to wait too long. I should have had a back-up, but I'm really thinking of upgrading and wasn't sure I wanted two projectors.


I assume you had to reset the timer with your firmware also? I should really be ready to order a replacement soon in case I have to wait to get it in. I saw a deal where I could get a 1 year warranty on the lamp for an extra $35.

I assume you had to reset the timer with your firmware also? I should really be ready to order a replacement soon in case I have to wait to get it in. I saw a deal where I could get a 1 year warranty on the lamp for an extra $35.


Yes, I reset the timer. I should have bought the bulb then, but I had just gone back to work after being off for a month and I didn't want to spend the money on anything extra at the time.

That sure paid off. :rolleyes:

Dannypanny:
After you update the firmware you have to enter the special menu:
DVI Custom Setting

To use devices, such as video projectors, which may require custom setting of the DVI-output parameters, go into Setup to the Video Setting for DVI-Out.

Press the Right Arrow once, then enter 9713 to get the DVI Custom Setting screen. The various parameters for your projector can now be entered and saved.

Then enter the parameters:
HorizFreq----23688-----VertFreq------4795
VideoWith-----0854-----VideoHeight---0480
HSyncTotal----1030-----PreHSync------0008
HSyncActive---0080-----PostHSync-----0088
VSyncTotal----0494-----PreVSync------0001
VSyncActive---0003-----PostVSync-----0010
HSyncPol------0000-----VSyncPol------0000

Thanks mrpergo,do I need to change all those settings to play perfect on 4805.Thanks

Dannypanny;
Yes you do.
I took this info from someone who posted awhile ago and the way it was written sorta said just enter the horiz and vert and hit enter and the rest of the numbers would fill in.
I did that and the projector went crazy and I could not get anything to come on.
I had to take it to another tv and set it up.
So make sure you enter all the numbers then hit enter.

Thank you mrpergo for your help,can't wait to make the changes.

What good would any warantee be if IF doesn't have any bulbs to give out as replacements? I was going to buy the 3-year warantee, but...

Besides, the girlfriend always seems to want a new upgrade every Christmas. :)

First post so I'll make it long winded. First, thank you to everyone that provides valuable information in this forum. Without it, a lot of people (present company included) would be lost. In fact, it was only after coming across the original thread for the 4805 that I decided to take the plunge and purchase my 4805 last October. Prior to that, I was leaning toward a plasma or LCD tv!

I have a 17' x 14' bonus room, which became a junk room over time. Once I started reading about home theater projectors and found out that prices had dropped dramatically, my interest peaked. I finally got the iniative to clean out my bonus room and paint it. I already had a Sony receiver, JBL speakers and Toshiba DVD player with zoom (nice feature). Last decision to make ... TV or PJ. This forum helped me decide what it was that I really wanted to accomplish; watch movies in widescreen format (on a large screen). I went to a local home theater dealer and watched a 10 minute demo of Master and Commander. Runco projector on a Stewart screen. I was blown away. I then knew that a projector was the way to go.

I was realistic. I knew I wasn't buying a Runco PJ or Stewart screen. I settled on the 4805 thanks to posts in the original thread. I couldn't be happier! The money I saved on the PJ went into other items for the room (Lazyboy leather couch that reclines, Dalite Cinema Contour screen - 73"). I've since hooked up a HD cable box from Time Warner, and my Nintendo Gamecube. Nobody in my family or none of my friends have a setup like this. When they come over they are in shock. I love watching their eyes pop out of their head and jaws hitting the floor. I think sometimes I get more satisfaction out of that than watching the movie myself (well, maybe not). Thanks again to everyone that keeps this thread going.

You knew it was coming ... a question. I made a poor choice with the pj mount I'm currently using (cheap ebay mount). Saved a couple of bucks, but it was a mistake. I'm looking for recommendations on a new ceiling mount. I searched for mounts for the 4805, and came across a Chief Manufacturing RPA Series - LCD Inverted Ceiling Projector Mount. It's aprox $150, but looks like it would be a solid mount. Any help would be appreciated.

Well I've tweaked my HT510 via HTPC and pulled alot more out of it. I was calibrating my desk top, but not the DVD player software(TheaterTek). So that caused gastly results but now that I've got TT set up right the HT510 does a much better job and looks good. But still not as good as my old X1 so I can't wait to get the SP4805. I set up 854x480 on my HTPC and then blew it up to fill the screen to see how big pixels would look on the 4805 and it seems they are going to be smaller than I even thought :). I've got my HT510 on Ebay right now with 16 watchers and no bids LOL. It'll sell for sure I have it starting low but I hope I get within a dead president of a refurbed 4805.I'm also tempted to try to nab a IF74 if I'm right on what they'll go for on the street. The added resolution is very nice when scaled with a HTPC or a HQ DVD player but the contrast of the HT510 is it's weak spot. The IF74 is rated at 3000:1 thats gotta look good. Incidently the IF72 for now says 2000:1 but I bet that's so people don't hold off on the 4805 right now while the IF72 isn't even out. Once the IF72 is out and the SP4805 is discontinued I bet the contrast of the IF72 takes a jump to 2200 -2400:1, just like the SP4805 went from 2200:1 to 2000:1 the numbers can change. I wouldn't want a IF72 because the IF74 would be in striking range price wise and has better contrast which I've learned the hard way should be the number one priority(True contrast). Any how I didn't mean to rant, I'm just jones'n for a high contrast deep black image and I should have it within 10 days. Also I will do the D1 mod as CAVU has made it look doable with just a tad bit of effort, I will get his advise on the very best PS unit I can get.

The IN74/76 has a different lens than the IN72 - so contrast diff could be real. I think the IN72 is really just the SP4805 in a purty case! Not much they can do to improve it that would not increase the cost.

Sounds like you had a Studio/Video DVI issue rather than the PC DVI levels. This will cause grey blacks if set wrong. Expect the same HTPC issues with any of the new boxes - stay tuned for Bob Williams to provide adjustment numbers.

I took this info from someone who posted awhile ago and the way it was written sorta said just enter the horiz and vert and hit enter and the rest of the numbers would fill in. I did that and the projector went crazy and I could not get anything to come on. That was a post from mouw and he was referring to a software program, not the DVD player itself!

I set up the MOMITSU Custom-DVI by using several spec generators....my current favorite is:

>>> CR4V880 (http://rennfast.dns2go.com/Public/Momitsu%20DVD/Custom%20settings/cr4v880.zip) <<<<

which if you give it the Horizonal and Vertical PIXELS along with Vertical Refresh== 854x480@47.952hz will generate the rest of the #sThe program mode he is referring to is the "Custom Resolution Wizard" which is the 7th icon from the left on the top panel of the program's menu bar. (It's not well labelled ! :( )

Note: when setting refresh rate, divide the nominal refresh rate by 1.001 to get the accurate refresh rate. For example:48Hz / 1.001 = 47.95
60Hz / 1.001 = 59.94
72Hz / 1.001 = 71.93

Thank you mrpergo for your help,can't wait to make the changes.

Don't forget to put your 4805 in native mode, not 16:9 mode when running the Bravo, else the 4805 will scale again, you don't want that. . .

I was messing around with my motorola cable box (comcast) and realized I was passing 4:3 Override as a 480p signal (choices are 480i 480p 720p 1080i) so I switche dit over to 480i... the 4805 does a much better job deinterlacing the picture (as to be expected) so that might be worth looking at for those people who have that option.

It did bring to mind an interesting issue though which is how to output my HD stuff... I can pass HD content as any of the above listed resolutions and it seems to me that I don't want my cable box upscaling anything just to have the 4805 downscale it again...

So considering HD content could be comming down at a native 1080 or 720 what is the best to pass it along as? My preliminary tests reveal nothing seems to be significantly better but it's hard to test as I have to turn off my cable box, adjust settings and turn it back on so there is a lot of time and other images between resolutions, not to mention the image keeps changing.

In my mind it seems:

If the source is really 1080i best to leave it that way and let the 4805 scale it.

If the srouce is 720p I want to pass that straight to the 4805

What do you all think is the best setting for this?

And as a follow up after a few more hours of TV I still see flickering in bright scenes (others seem to report it in dark scenes?) but it does seem reduced and the picture seems somehow slightly better (maybe due to a slight improvement in picture stabilty).

Davedander

If you have a pass-through option, IMO that is the best way to go - letting the 4805 scale it. If you don't have this option, I think 720p is the second best choice.

I have noticed there appears to be very slightly less sharpness banding on DVE's resolution sweep when running 480i when sharpness is in the default "standard" position. Going on the exacting science of memory I'm more inclined than not to believe Faroudjas sharpness was tweaked slightly but could be wrong.


I'm assuming that this is a good thing, although your mention of tweaking faroudja's sharpness has been mentioned by many others - except that no one seems to like it.

Most say that the PQ is less sharp and more blurry - is this your assessment as well?

I have yet to upgrade the firmware until I hear the consensus.

aaranddeeman

Take a look at my gallery - my walls are hunter green. I got WAF to paint it that color. I personally wanted Burgundy, but WAF wasn't on board.

I like the deep greens and deep reds. I beleive MaximAVS has a gallery with red walls in his HT (if I remember correctly). Not a big fan of blue, but that may be personal choice - I think it is depressing.

Also depends on your screen. A grey screen allows lighter color walls. A white screen (Dalite DaMatte, for example or straight BO cloth) with .8-1.0 gain and your best off with dark walls for those inky blacks.

Only other suggestion is that I recommend you paint the ceiling as well.

Thanks Geno,

I don't know, bu I am somehow leaning towards blue with a grey ceiling. I seem to agree with smithfarmer that burgundy might be on a brighter side.

Talking of screen, I will probably end up with Behr silver screen or PLASTEX.

I do have the darker green in my list of choices, but I am unable to find an appropriate ceiling match with that. What color do you have on the ceiling?

Any more suggestion based on my screen options?

I was messing around with my motorola cable boxAre you using DVI or component?? If you are using DVI, Bob William's famous numbers apply as the Moto DVI produces "Studio" levels (16-235) rather than the SP4805 default of "PC" levels (0-255).I was passing 4:3 Override as a 480p signal (choices are 480i 480p 720p 1080i)Actually, there is another option ... "OFF". When it is set to "OFF", the 4:3 SD content is output as whatever the default output of the Moto is set to. I leave mine set there as there is no resync issue when changing channels. I would use the 480i option but the SP4805 doesn't handle 480i over its DVI input.considering HD content could be comming down at a native 1080 or 720 what is the best to pass it along as?It depends what you're watching. Most HDTV is native 1080i so I generally leave it there. But ABC, FOX and ESPN are native 720p; I'm not a big sports type so I usually ignore that but when something critical, like American Idol ;), comes on ... I switch the Moto to 720p. I have suggested to my sports fanatic friends that they always set the Moto to 720p when watching sports on these channels as the motion seems a lot smoother. Perhaps, one day, the rest of the networks will catch up and switch to 720p. Probably just in time for everyone to upgrade to 1080p!!

The ideal would be a native pass-through mode and many Moto owners/users are on Moto's case to do this.

You knew it was coming ... a question. I made a poor choice with the pj mount I'm currently using (cheap ebay mount). Saved a couple of bucks, but it was a mistake. I'm looking for recommendations on a new ceiling mount. I searched for mounts for the 4805, and came across a Chief Manufacturing RPA Series - LCD Inverted Ceiling Projector Mount. It's aprox $150, but looks like it would be a solid mount. Any help would be appreciated.Check out the 2000 Series at www.perfectmounts.com.

Thanks Geno,

I don't know, bu I am somehow leaning towards blue with a grey ceiling. I seem to agree with smithfarmer that burgundy might be on a brighter side.

Talking of screen, I will probably end up with Behr silver screen or PLASTEX.

I do have the darker green in my list of choices, but I am unable to find an appropriate ceiling match with that. What color do you have on the ceiling?

Any more suggestion based on my screen options?

Geno,

I saw your pictures. That's the green I too was mentioning.

It seems you have the same color for the ceiling. I thought would it be better to have a different shade for screen (light or dark depending on the wall color)?

The white thing which is running across the corners, is it the wire hide or crown molding?

Looking for 25' HDMI-HDMI cable. Monoprice has an ETA of 03/19 which could be too late for me.

Does anyone know a reliable and reasonable source for this cable. I wish monoprice had it in stock.

Hey guys its Onion with my fan update.

After 20 hours of use on low power mode the unit is inaudible from 2.5 feet way. Its even better than my Optoma ep719 which is very quiet.

In high power mode its obviously louder but the problem becomes the smaller fan making all the noise which still isnt bad at all.


This is excellent news for those contemplating fan replacement. I plan on doing mine soon also (mine's out of warranty). So there weren't any heat related problems or automatic shutdown events, etc? Have you had the projector on for extended periods of time during your 20hrs? Were there any fitment problems with the Panny 25mm thick fan vs the OEM 20mm thick fan? The one thing about this projector that has always bothered me is the noise. Now there's something we can do about it. I thank you for sharing your experience.

The IN74/76 has a different lens than the IN72 - so contrast diff could be real. I think the IN72 is really just the SP4805 in a purty case! Not much they can do to improve it that would not increase the cost.

Sounds like you had a Studio/Video DVI issue rather than the PC DVI levels. This will cause grey blacks if set wrong. Expect the same HTPC issues with any of the new boxes - stay tuned for Bob Williams to provide adjustment numbers.


Well I was going RGB to RGB and calibrating my desktop assuming that the software(TT) was affected by my desktop. I tried again using DVE and realized that I had my brightness way to hight for TT. After calulating my brightness went to -8 and contrast went to +49 the defaults are 0 and 36 which didn't move at all on desk top calibration. Now the blacks are good but not X1 levels but my X1 was hooked up to a Panny XP30 w/DCDi. I'm assuming now I have it at it's best for HTPC are you thinking I may be able to achieve a litte bit better blacks and that I have something wrong with the gamma of the HTPC. Oh well, it's 99% out the door. I thought that the light path of all the new IF72/74/76 had been redesigned and maybe kept more of the stray light from getting back to the DMD, I think that is the HT510's problem. The IF72 isn't as good a buy for it's time as the SP4805 because as the days go by more and more DLP's w/DVI break/smash the $1k mark. Even if they don't look good as 4805/IF72 for HT use they are price-image-resolution values. I bet the X3 or the Sharp XGA that everyone likes would post a much better 576p then my HT510 if fed a good source. The IF72 needs to get to $899 imo to do well and the IF74 should retail for $1,499 to turn a decent volume of units as it's just an odd resolution that only I seem to digg. With respectable XGA w/DVI going for sub $1k retail the IF74 is in a tough market especially since good used 720P's are had for way under $1,999 - the current retail price of the IF74. I'm seeing a refurbed SP4805 as the buy of the century right now but with my luck I'll get one with real problems as opposed to an simple openbox return. TT does one *ell of a job of scaling I'll give it that - looks like sharp film but the HT510 lives up to it's sad 1200:1 rated 400:1(real)contrast w/ave blacks. I want Deep Blacks and Bright whites NOW. The market sure is confusing right now as to where and when and additional $500 could make a big jump image wise.

Geno,

I saw your pictures. That's the green I too was mentioning.

It seems you have the same color for the ceiling. I thought would it be better to have a different shade for screen (light or dark depending on the wall color)?

The white thing which is running across the corners, is it the wire hide or crown molding?

It is Behr "Deep Jungle" with a Flat base of course. I went ahead and painted the ceiling the same color. And the funny thing is, no one even notices until I point out that I painted the ceiling too - I guess no one really even looks at the ceiling. At first I just did the walls - but then noticed the reflection from the glossy white ceiling. Huge improvement.

I have crown molding running across the room - along the ceiling, down the corners, and along the floor. I wanted to leave them white to add some contrast, make the room seem longer (actually, this was WAF's theory and it works), and to hide the wires in the back right corner. I have my DVI and component running down that corner and I taped them with white electrical tape to blend in. When I took that picture, I hadn't finished taping all the wires, so you can probably see at the bottom. Now it fits snug against the molding and blends in. I've tested it on several friends by asking them to find the wires - they actually have to go right up to it to notice. Eventually, I want to redo the room (pending WAF approval) in which I will replace that thin molding with much thicker molding so I can simply hide the wires behind it.

Get's addictive, doesn't it? ;)

Are you using DVI or component?? If you are using DVI, Bob William's famous numbers apply as the Moto DVI produces "Studio" levels (16-235) rather than the SP4805 default of "PC" levels (0-255).Actually, there is another option ... "OFF". When it is set to "OFF", the 4:3 SD content is output as whatever the default output of the Moto is set to. I leave mine set there as there is no resync issue when changing channels. I would use the 480i option but the SP4805 doesn't handle 480i over its DVI input.It depends what you're watching. Most HDTV is native 1080i so I generally leave it there. But ABC, FOX and ESPN are native 720p; I'm not a big sports type so I usually ignore that but when something critical, like American Idol ;), comes on ... I switch the Moto to 720p. I have suggested to my sports fanatic friends that they always set the Moto to 720p when watching sports on these channels as the motion seems a lot smoother. Perhaps, one day, the rest of the networks will catch up and switch to 720p. Probably just in time for everyone to upgrade to 1080p!!

The ideal would be a native pass-through mode and many Moto owners/users are on Moto's case to do this.

I am using component as I am saving my DVI for my HTPC and don't have a component switcher (also my reciver does componet upscaling).

I hadn't noticed the off selection for 4:3 override so I turned it off... seems a little brighter.. almost too bright. When I had 480i passing it would stretch the 4:3 content at native to fill the whole screen, however now it shows with borders. I have to decide if I like one over the other as I am not too bothered by the fat face effect...

I tried to find somehow to bypass for hi def but nothign... I can choose tv style: 16:9, 4:3, pan and scan but no bypass or off

Likewise my hd output is limited to the resolutions above...

I am not too bothered by the fat face effect...
.....................................
..................................................
............................................................ ..







[That's the sound of me being speechless]

My thoughts exactly. :D

-W

??? Fat face is better than fat a55! :)

Well, watching "Into the Blue" on Sat, there were some scenes of a55es that didn't bother me if it did look fatter.

On another note, I am contemplating on doing the fan mod. Anyone know of a good place to pick up the parts?

initial release http://www.infocus.com/service/software/downloads/4805v102.exe
12/10/04 http://www.infocus.com/service/software/downloads/4805v113.exe
09/20/05 http://www.infocus.com/service/software/downloads/sp4805v121.exe
03/03/06 http://www.infocus.com/service/software/downloads/4805v132.exe

Direct links to their site for sp4805 firmware

Ok folks I did the D1 mod and nothing blew up when I plugged it in :)
Many thanks to Cavu for telling me which part to get at Radio Shack locally.
The mod was very easy. It took me about 1/2 hr- 45min. just because I was double and triple checking myself.
I've been in the trades for 30 yrs. and I am not as familiar with a soldering iron as I am with a torch, but everything went very smooth.
I bought a little 5 piece soldering kit from RS and a Desoldering tool and the capacitor for under $20.00. The desoldering tool I bought was not right for the job but it still worked. I bought a vacuum desoldering tool and would have been better off with a desoldering braid or little felt tip thingy.
Yesterday I went to watch the movie Crash and right from the beginning it was freezing and locking up. (unplayable) After I did the mod this morning I hooked everything back up and put in Crash. Played like a charm :D
Again many thanks to Cavu for all the info on the D1 and the how to on the modification.
I do believe I will still get the newer EPO loader because I have the original Fuss loader in mine, and just keep the Fuss as a backup.
Now its lunch time and a MOVIE :cool:

Ok folks I did the D1 mod and nothing blew up when I plugged it in :)
Many thanks to Cavu for telling me which part to get at Radio Shack locally.
The mod was very easy. It took me about 1/2 hr- 45min. just because I was double and triple checking myself.
I've been in the trades for 30 yrs. and I am not as familiar with a soldering iron as I am with a torch, but everything went very smooth.
I bought a little 5 piece soldering kit from RS and a Desoldering tool and the capacitor for under $20.00. The desoldering tool I bought was not right for the job but it still worked. I bought a vacuum desoldering tool and would have been better off with a desoldering braid or little felt tip thingy.
Yesterday I went to watch the movie Crash and right from the beginning it was freezing and locking up. (unplayable) After I did the mod this morning I hooked everything back up and put in Crash. Played like a charm :D
Again many thanks to Cavu for all the info on the D1 and the how to on the modification.
I do believe I will still get the newer EPO loader because I have the original Fuss loader in mine, and just keep the Fuss as a backup.
Now its lunch time and a MOVIE :cool:

Perg,

Congrats on the mod. Could you point out the link to the ratshack part you used? I'm about to pull the trigger on a D1 myself, and wanna have all the parts before it arrives. Also, does one need to do the loader swap even after the power supply mod?

Maybe a better question for Cavu. Cavu?

Here's the capacitor I got per Cavu recommendation.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102511&cp=2032058.2032230.2032267&pg=1&parentPage=family
Cavu has posted that you do not need to upgrade the loader. Mine seems fine so I'm going to put it through its paces first before I order the upgrade.

Could you point out the link to the ratshack part you used?You could use this 1000uf @ 35v (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102511&cp=2032058.2032230.2032267&pg=1&parentPage=family) - its the nearest that Radio Shack has in their catalogue. I used to recommend 50v units (http://www.thesourcecc.com/estore/Product.aspx?language=en-CA&catalog=Online&category=Capacitors&product=2729014) but it seems RS in the USofA doesn't have any. It's odd that the Canadian Radio Shack stores (now "The Source" by Circuit City) have a broader selection that the US Stores.

I am personally using miniature high temp Nichicon caps (http://www.nichicon-us.com/english/seihin/pdfs/e-rz.pdf).

Make sure you observe the correct polarity !!does one need to do the loader swap even after the power supply mod?No.

You could use this 1000uf @ 35v (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102511&cp=2032058.2032230.2032267&pg=1&parentPage=family) - its the nearest that Radio Shack has in their catalogue. I used to recommend 50v units (http://www.thesourcecc.com/estore/Product.aspx?language=en-CA&catalog=Online&category=Capacitors&product=2729014) but it seems RS in the USofA doesn't have any. It's odd that the Canadian Radio Shack stores (now "The Source" by Circuit City) have a broader selection that the US Stores.

I am personally using miniature high temp Nichicon caps (http://www.nichicon-us.com/english/seihin/pdfs/e-rz.pdf).

Make sure you observe the correct polarity !!No.

Cavu,

Got your email. Thanks, but for some reason I'm having a hard time creating an ISO image cd. Anywhere else I can download the file?

Try Socio's site for hints on how to improve output of your SDTV stuff:

Welcome to the ffdshow/Avisynth with Limited Sharpen how to guides for HTPC users (http://free.hostdepartment.com/f/ffdshowGuides/index.html)

Choose the "TV Guide" tab at the top.


Thx for the info. I will give this a try.

Cavu,
having a hard time creating an ISO image cd.
4me
Nero 7.0 recognized the .NRG file
just fine with Burn ISO file
but if u want send me a PM with your real eMail
and i will forward Bravo-D1-Firmware.nrg (i got from CAVU)
file is about 4megs

Deerhunter I have the ISO image that I got from Vinc with instructions I can send you.
I burnt mine to CD-R with DVDecrypter.
Let me know

WOW! The Bravo D1 plot thickens ... I have just learned some very disturbing information.

It seems that the Bravo D1 units flooding the market and being offered for sale at newegg.com, ubid.com and chiefvalue.com (amongst possible others) may be counterfeit!!

The serial numbers which have been provided by buyers of those products are not in Vizio's database.

If you have purchased one of these products, please send your serial number along with the date and location you purchased the box to ofelia.galindres@vinc.com.

Obviously, if this is the case, Vizio will not be providing any form of warranty support for these boxes.

I think we may have to start a new, dedicated thread for the Bravo D1 ....

WOW! The Bravo D1 plot thickens ... I have just learned some very disturbing information.

It seems that the Bravo D1 units flooding the market and being offered for sale at newegg.com, ubid.com and chiefvalue.com (amongst possible others) may be counterfeit!!

The serial numbers which have been provided by buyers of those products are not in Vizio's database.

If you have purchased one of these products, please send your serial number along with the date and location you purchased the box to ofelia.galindres@vinc.com.

Obviously, if this is the case, Vizio will not be providing any form of warranty support for these boxes.

I think we may have to start a new, dedicated thread for the Bravo D1 ....

Great... there go my plans for a D1!!!

there go my plans for a D1!!!That needn't be the case ... so far it appears that the boxes being sold are, in fact, from the same factory that Vizio contracted in Taiwan and are possibly the same, right down to the "warts" ;) . So long as the warranty component isn't a big deal, and at these prices it shouldn't be, go for it!

No final conclusion yet but in considering the ethics of the situation, here are my initial thoughts: Vizio isn't losing out on a sale as they don't offer the products any more;
Vizio won't cover the warranties on these boxes so that won't cost them anything except a possible consumer PR backlash from the uninformed buyers of these units;
Vizio might be able to sue someone for counterfeiting their intellectual properties and actually make some money on this situation (so long as we all cooperate ;) );
If the boxes are actually from the original factory, the user gets the product he expected;
The boxes may be in better condition than "used" units;
No-one should blame Vizio or hold them responsible for any outcome;
This may actually be a consumer "windfall" !!

IAC, there are still a few units in circulation on eBay, etc.

Holy Cow now I don't feel so bad for not getting one from Newegg.
I got mine from a guy on Ebay.
Somebody buy one and take it apart and see what they look like inside.

Oh sweet, now, along with DVD's we've got bootleg DVD players?

I've got a bid on one, and wont be able yo use it utill i get my pj shipped to me. So If cavu (being the resident D1 guru) wants to take it apart to check the guts and function I'de be willing to send it to him to verify the authenticity. That way we'll get an Idea of whats floating around out there.

If cavu ... wants to take it apart to check the guts and function I'de be willing to send it to him to verify the authenticity.Do you have a digital camera? If so, take a real good closeup of the manufacturer/serial number label on the back centre of the box. Pop the eight screws out of the cover and get a good closeup of the power supply board the video processor board, and the label on the DVD loader.Email the pix to me and we'll try and sort this out.

Thanks for the heads up cavu. I will put my D1 plan on hold for now.

Oh sweet, now, along with DVD's we've got bootleg DVD players?

I've got a bid on one, and wont be able yo use it utill i get my pj shipped to me. So If cavu (being the resident D1 guru) wants to take it apart to check the guts and function I'de be willing to send it to him to verify the authenticity. That way we'll get an Idea of whats floating around out there.

Do have the unit on hand? If so, do like Cavu says. This will be interesting.

Thanks for the heads up cavu. I will put my D1 plan on hold for now.

Same goes here!

No not yet, just a bid closing Wed. I'll take the pics when I get it though. Most likely, unless something happens with V.ink getting a restraining order or something, Ubid will have them again, or maybe someone else. Pics in a few days depending on shipping.

Edit: also, my pj's on the eastcoast still so i can't test for pixel mapping or functions etc. I guess if the chips are the same though, they should perform the same. I'm in the LA area if anyone wants to try it out and has the needd cables.

hate to but in on all the D1 fears, but I went back and did some more watching on my 4805 and sadly the new firmware seems to have lessened some of the issues but they are far form gone.

The flicker does still appear, a few times I thought I noticed it an blanked the screen white to see and indeed it flickered. The effect is kind of like a candle in the wind where the pictuer is solid white but the whole thing seems to drop brightness a lot then pop right back up about 2 or 3 times a second. VERY noticeable on white out, not so bad on pictures but i still notice it and can only think it contributes to eyestrain. On some shots it was almost like watching an old 8mm camera where you could very much notice the times the bulb was off.

Waterfall/rolling bars. The effect where it looks like someone is holding a piece of plexi in front of the lense and pouring sheets of water down it (sort of like the edge of those horizon pools) by at a very steady adn fast rate. horizontal bars of lost brightness running either up or down.

Now a new issue... for some reason sometimes when switching from a 480i signal to an HD signal the blue fails... the picture has a sickly green and or red tint to it, hues are all way off... an auto adjust fixes it but I never had to do that before...

So it looks like for me the new firmware was a marginal improvement if any at all...

The flicker does still appear, a few times I thought I noticed it an blanked the screen white to see and indeed it flickered. The effect is kind of like a candle in the wind where the pictuer is solid white but the whole thing seems to drop brightness a lot then pop right back up about 2 or 3 times a second. VERY noticeable on white out, not so bad on pictures but i still notice it and can only think it contributes to eyestrain. On some shots it was almost like watching an old 8mm camera where you could very much notice the times the bulb was off.

This sounds like bulb flicker and not the pulsating issue that is fixed in the new firmware. Run the 4805 in high power for a few hours.

Waterfall/rolling bars. The effect where it looks like someone is holding a piece of plexi in front of the lense and pouring sheets of water down it (sort of like the edge of those horizon pools) by at a very steady adn fast rate. horizontal bars of lost brightness running either up or down.

Ground loop? Did you have to remove your projector when you did the firmware upgrade? Is it possible something could have happened when you plugged it back in to cause a ground loop.

The new issue you mentioned happen once to me so far...

hate to but in on all the D1 fears, but I went back and did some more watching on my 4805 and sadly the new firmware seems to have lessened some of the issues but they are far form gone.

The flicker does still appear, a few times I thought I noticed it an blanked the screen white to see and indeed it flickered. The effect is kind of like a candle in the wind where the pictuer is solid white but the whole thing seems to drop brightness a lot then pop right back up about 2 or 3 times a second. VERY noticeable on white out, not so bad on pictures but i still notice it and can only think it contributes to eyestrain. On some shots it was almost like watching an old 8mm camera where you could very much notice the times the bulb was off.

Waterfall/rolling bars. The effect where it looks like someone is holding a piece of plexi in front of the lense and pouring sheets of water down it (sort of like the edge of those horizon pools) by at a very steady adn fast rate. horizontal bars of lost brightness running either up or down.

Now a new issue... for some reason sometimes when switching from a 480i signal to an HD signal the blue fails... the picture has a sickly green and or red tint to it, hues are all way off... an auto adjust fixes it but I never had to do that before...

So it looks like for me the new firmware was a marginal improvement if any at all...

I don't know if this will help your situation but re-flash your unit with the previous firmware and then back to the latest, sometimes re-flashing the unit will help.

cavu

Counterfeit is likely rather not the proper word. What is more likely that a contract factory did not have their contract renewed - maybe they thought they would get it and decided to keep on making them, then the manufacturer who switched contracts said I am not buying them - we no longer have a contract - so the contract factory dumps them. Factory finds dumping goods is profitable - and keep on making them. Does this also explain why SP4805 "refurbs" that appeared on the market NIB? Would probably require some detective work in the financial quarterlys to know the difference.

It certainly would be in the manufacturers best interest to not support these boxes - if indeed they are made by contract factories without the manufacturers QA oversite.

I got what I wanted for my HT510. I'm looking at used and refurbed 4805. On a used unit can the bulb be reset by the user, making stated lamp useage unreliable, or can only Infocus reset the lamp. I've noticed in the last 2 weeks 4805(refurb's) have droped about $40. One posters info in another thread leads me to think AVS will have the IN72 at $999 very soon. We need a review of it, Brand New,Brigher, Much Quieter and maybe a tad more contrast(speculation), along with full warranty makes me want to hold off and buy here at AVS. Cons: Untested unit by the masses may be worst/cheaper than the SP4805 and have more problems. Hmmmmm Decision Decisions.....my patience is low.

Is anyone using the 50 ft. monoprice cable with the D1? I just got the cable today and it works fine with my PC. It initially worked with my Samsung SIRT-451 OTA receiver but suddenly stopped working. I put it back to the PC and it works fine. I have a D1 coming in and hope it will work with it as well.

... The flicker does still appear, a few times I thought I noticed it an blanked the screen white to see and indeed it flickered ...

I'm pretty sure you're describing a lamp flicker, as Ja Phule suggested.

... Waterfall/rolling bars. The effect where it looks like someone is holding a piece of plexi in front of the lense and pouring sheets of water down it (sort of like the edge of those horizon pools) by at a very steady adn fast rate. horizontal bars of lost brightness running either up or down ...

"booker21's bane"!!! ;)

Sometimes, in a fast moving scene in a HD program, I can see a mometary occurrence of what looks like tearing in the brighter parts of the picture. It's probably uniform across the entire screen but just shows up better in bright parts. It may be in the source signal itself, or it may be an artifact of 4805's signal processing. It actually looks a lot like your "waterfall/rolling bars," except it's transient. On the other hand, the "waterfall" I can see in static images as well when it happens, and it doesn't go away (easiest remedy for me being physical disconnect/reconnect of the video cable.) Wonder if these are related?

joe

Counterfeit is likely rather not the proper word. What is more likely that a contract factory did not have their contract renewed - maybe they thought they would get it and decided to keep on making them, then the manufacturer who switched contracts said I am not buying them - we no longer have a contract - so the contract factory dumps them.I suspect that's very likely the scenario - factory over-runs. This activity could be classed as "gray market", unlicenced product, etc. The counterfeit element is the use of Vizio's trademark (and prepaid licenses, ie. Dolby, etc.) and the trademark holder is deprived of the ability to control the quality of products bearing its name and where consumer confusion is likely.

It's no different than a foreign factory, previously contracted to produce running shoes, to continue beyond the contract period and selling the runners direct but with Nike's label on the goods.

Interesting thought on the 'refurb' SP4805's - we certainly know that here was a change of contract manufacturer there!!

The case may become a "comparable goods trademark case" where the counterfeit mark is placed on goods where the goods themselves are arguably of equivalent quality to legitimate goods. For example, a defendant who is charged with trademark counterfeiting for selling pirated computer software in counterfeit packaging may claim that the software he sold was an exact duplicate of the original software.

From a buyer's standpoint, the product is likely the same, but as you pointed out, did not receive the benefit of Vizio's QC.

It will be very interesting to see if the amount of product being trafficked is big enough to generate some real police or legal activity.

In the USA, the Statutory Penalty for Trafficking in Counterfeit Goods or Services is imprisonment for 10 years and a fine of $2,000,000 for a first-time violator. A subsequent conviction carries a prison term of up to 20 years, a $5,000,000 fine, or both.

Is anyone using the 50 ft. monoprice cable with the D1?I'm pretty certain it will work with the D1 but not the D2.

Remember, the DVI spec is 15m. ;)

In the USA, the Statutory Penalty for Trafficking in Counterfeit Goods or Services is imprisonment for 10 years and a fine of $2,000,000 for a first-time violator. A subsequent conviction carries a prison term of up to 20 years, a $5,000,000 fine, or both.

Holy S#*t! That's more than drug trafficking, isn't it? (Guess we'd have to ask Whitney Houston or Kate Moss' friends on this one) ;)

i just got a new Bravo D1 from NewEgg

just posted pictures (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7301875#post7301875)

Replaced Loader in Bravo D1 thread (requested by CAVU)

From a buyer's standpoint, the product is likely the same, but as you pointed out, did not receive the benefit of Vizio's QC.



Anyone who owns a D1 knows you aren't missing much there :)

Anyone who owns a D1 knows you aren't missing much there :)Frankly, I think that Vizio gets a bad rap over the D1. They were actually the biggest losers in the speckled history of this box.

The simple nature of the PS mod demonstrates that the inherent design of the Bravo unit is excellent, producing a PQ that is essentially unchallenged more than four years after the fact.

I would suggest that the seeming random nature of the symptoms which arose in the Bravo D1, which only showed up after being in operation for a period of time, are akin to the "flashing" bug in the SP4805. The problems did not exhibit themselves in all units. It was extremely difficult to trace and more difficult to duplicate. This sort of snag gets into the realm of sun spots or cosmic particles.

The fact that the D1 design engineering talent had been contracted made it even worse - Vizio customer support had insufficient depth of resources to deal with the sporadic problem. (Picture InFocus Customer Support without a Bob Williams in the back room and realize that it takes a $900M company to do that!)

The revenues generated from these inexpensive boxes, which themselves appealed only to a cult marketplace, were too small to justify re-engineering the existing player so they took another swing with the newer D2 model. And fortunately, but for no explainable reason, the catalog of problems never showed up in the D2.

In the end, it was all in the luck of the draw. The D1 problems were the result of a handful of substandard capacitors which made their way into the power supply purchased from an OEM supplier by Vizio for the D1. The D2 used a slightly different PS design but, as it happens, the faulty part was only used in a limited number of production runs of the PS. Later issues of the same D1 power supply work reliably.

The culprit capacitor degraded slowly, over a period of time, initially introducing spurious noise onto the power rails in the player, and eventually failing almost completely.

Unfortunately, the PS board was a replacement item, not a repairable item and, wouldn't you know it, the replacement inventory had come from the same, original OEM batch and had the same problem. So simply replacing the power supply never "cured" anything for very long.

It was only when the inventory of PS boards began to be exhausted that the PS boards themselves were looked at.

In hindsight, the solution is obvious and at the same time very sad. It reminds me of the virus that kills the Martians in War of the Worlds. Who coulda guessed!?

The whole experience has left Vizio with a bad taste in its mouth. Certainly there was no windfall of profits coming from this quarter. Their reputation in this arena has been sullied. We won't be seeing any new players from them. Not in this lifetime.

But we now know what the issue is, and how simple it is to fix, so I believe we are seeing the revival of a "legend". The D1 has such a strong synergy with the InFocus SP4805 (and I'm sure with the IN72) that the combination will set the standard for standard def DVD PQ for a long time.

With the industry emphasis now on developing new HD players for a new DVD format, it is unlikely that the performance of this combination will ever be surpassed for existing DVD catalogs.

Don't ever throw out your D1 or your SP4805/IN72. Not while you still own any standard def DVDs. Perhaps in the future, you will be able to set your D1 to 1708x960 @ 48Hz and display your old DVDs in a 1:4 pixel-mapped letterbox on your new InFocus 1080p projector.

Dannypanny:
After you update the firmware you have to enter the special menu:
DVI Custom Setting

To use devices, such as video projectors, which may require custom setting of the DVI-output parameters, go into Setup to the Video Setting for DVI-Out.

Press the Right Arrow once, then enter 9713 to get the DVI Custom Setting screen. The various parameters for your projector can now be entered and saved.

Then enter the parameters:
HorizFreq----23688-----VertFreq------4795
VideoWith-----0854-----VideoHeight---0480
HSyncTotal----1030-----PreHSync------0008
HSyncActive---0080-----PostHSync-----0088
VSyncTotal----0494-----PreVSync------0001
VSyncActive---0003-----PostVSync-----0010
HSyncPol------0000-----VSyncPol------0000

Are you sure that these are the correct settings? Please forgive my ignorance but the cr4v880 has different results when inputting 852x480@59.94hz or 854x480@59.94hz

Based on your (and all others) experience, should i set the cr4v880 settings or yours???? My player is yamakawa 365, which has the "secret" custom resolution menu.


Best Regards,
Stelios from Greece

Are you sure that these are the correct settings? Please forgive my ignorance but the cr4v880 has different results when inputting 852x480@59.94hz or 854x480@59.94hzThe settings that mrpergo listed are for 48Hz (47.952) refresh rate, not 60Hz.

If you plug his parameters (854x480@47.95) into CR4V880, you should get the same results.

The settings that mrpergo listed are for 48Hz (47.952) refresh rate, not 60Hz.

If you plug his parameters (854x480@47.95) into CR4V880, you should get the same results.

Basically no, CR4V880 for instance replaces VideoWith from 854 to 856 automatically.

Could you advise which settings to use for PAL movies? Will 852x480@59.94hz (whic again is replaced with 848) be the best choice in my case?


Best Regards,
Stelios

Cav,

Did you get a gander at the pics posted by MOUW of the unit from newegg? Your thoughts?

can anyone tell me if theatertek supports avi files?

if not, would zoom player work as theaterktek does, with the ability to load it up from within mce.

cheers

Did you get a gander at the pics posted by MOUW of the unit from newegg?Yes, I looked at his and a couple of others that were emailed directly to me.

These units definitely came from the same factory or at least use the same parts but a couple of the internal cables are different colours than any I've seen before.

The chassis is from the original batch. The serial number labels use a different font and different label size than the regular units and appear to be laser printed instead of stamped.

If the serial number sequence is legitimate, these boxes are two or three thousand units older than the units I currently have on my bench but I suspect they may have just started up the labelling machine with Vizio's leading code plus a random number.

I suspect that, as Kras suggested, these units have been assembled from excess raw parts inventories, probably by an OEM assembly plant in Taiwan (China) previously contracted by Vizio. For sake of argument, the assembly people probably performed the basic QC established by Vizio before they shipped them.

Its not a showstopper but at least one of the units has an opaque film or substance on the copper side of the front panel display board. It appears just to be "gummy dust" or a liquid but it certainly would have been cleaned in a regular situation - Vizio would not have accepted that.

The power supply boards may be a different batch which could mean that they don't have the flaky cap.

The loaders are the original Fuss DV9929B models. The last legitimate production used the EPO306 drives.

So, in my opinion and while Vizio is adamant that they are not "their" units, they will likely work fine. Vizio is investigating the source of the shipments and will deal with the culprits in court but nothing will happen with the units already distributed.

There may even be a case to revisit the online outlets for a reduced price in light of the fact that there is no warranty and the units are "counterfeit" !! ;)

So, if the lack of a manufacturer's warranty doesn't bother you (and at these prices I certainly wouldn't worry about it) I'd go for it! In fact, my nephew bought three units at my suggestion.

Cavu,

I think I lost something along the way here: is there a reason to go for the D1 over the D2, if both are available (eBay, ubid, newegg, wherever)?

I'm looking for a player for my refurb 4805 in a new attic install, and was going to use my Panny RP56, but figured I could do better. Can the D1 or D2 play R2 discs? How is the layer change speed (the main thing that drives me nuts on the RP56)? I was leaning toward Oppo, but all the Bravo talk has me intrigued now.

Thanks to all who provide so much info here. This thread is slowly creeping up on the ae900 for King of the Stickys (only about 950 more posts to go!).

This is almost getting out of hand ... I feel badly for the 4805 thread participants who have no interest in the D1 sub-topic.

I am building a special web page and will post everything remotely related to the Bravos there but, in the meanwhile, I have to post this one image!

Many, many AVS members having difficulty identifying the correct capacitor on the power supply board. The "C1022" legend is hidden beneath the components and the markings on the cap are likewise hidden. So, to be very clear and save some members considerable damage:

The circled capacitor is C1022 !! ;)

http://www.flying-colors.org/bravo-c1022.jpg

LOL. "The Official Infocus/Bravo 4805/D1 Thread". :)

This is almost getting out of hand ... I feel badly for the 4805 thread participants who have no interest in the D1 sub-topic.
You know, it's funny what someone will care about. I'm not interested in buying one of these units, but I find the discussion facinating. So I personally don't mind this one.

The subject I personally wish was in a different thread is the pixel mapping stuff, since I'm not doing that now. And there's a lot of posts on the subject. Still, I don't *really* mind -- it's interesting to see what everyone is up to.

-Dan

Maybe someone would start a new thread: best DVD players for Infocus 4805 and discuss the D1 and the Oppo.

Cav,

That's one hell of a snapshot! Nice!

is there a reason to go for the D1 over the D2, if both are available The benefits of the D1 over the D2: Supports DivX files
Drives the InFocus (and other) 10m+ DVI cable
It's black
It doesn't have Contrast, Brightness and Saturation controls on the player
Negatives are: Will ultimately require the PS mod
It's black
Less appealing remote control
Crappier component output
Costs less; retail was US$199. eBay has been US$74-US$165 (updated)

The benefits of the D2 over the D1:
Doe not require the PS mod
It has less crappy component output
It uses the "improved" EPO loader
It's mirrored silver
Nicer remote control
Negatives are:
Costs more; retail was US$249. eBay has been US$114-US$225 (updated)
It's mirrored silver
Won't drive InFocus (and other) 10m DVI cable but apparently will drive Pacific Cable 10m DVI cable (http://www.pacificcable.com/DVI.htm)
Slow Reverse function is NOT Supported
It has Contrast, Brightness and Saturation controls on the player

PS: DVI PQ AND SECRET MENU STUFF IS IDENTICAL ON THE TWO MODELS

That's one hell of a snapshot!Photo by Jose Vazquez of his newegg D1!!

This is almost getting out of hand ... I feel badly for the 4805 thread participants who have no interest in the D1 sub-topic.


This is important to every SP4805 owner out there. This thread has to get boring w/the "Where's The New Firmware" post after post and so many years of input. This D1 info is HUGE for those of us who want to jump strait to the best image known for the 4805 this has everything to do with a SP4805 and has saved me money as I'll skip the OPPO and go strait to the D1 - if there are any left by the time I but in a week. Great Info and I'm sure you'll get the site up in a week or two and everyone can be pointed there. Thanks David

Thanks, Cavu, for taking the time to enumerate the pros and cons of D1 and D2.

it's natural we're going to have extended tangents like the D1 discussion: if it's "The Official Infocus 4805 Thread" (or the 2nd of that name), it's going to go down lots of different roads.

I imagine a lot of people (like me) only jumped on the 4805 recently, and if you went strictly by old threads you might think the Bravo D1 should be avoided. Cavu has succeeded almost singlehandedly in making it relevant to many of us here.

This sounds like bulb flicker and not the pulsating issue that is fixed in the new firmware. Run the 4805 in high power for a few hours.



Ground loop? Did you have to remove your projector when you did the firmware upgrade? Is it possible something could have happened when you plugged it back in to cause a ground loop.

The new issue you mentioned happen once to me so far...

I have run in high mode for a few hours, will try a few more... I have over 500 hours on my bulb... woudln't it have worked itself out anyway by now?

This whole ground look issue came up before. I am pretty sure it's not a ground loop, been through isolators, plugging and unplugging everything...

I don't know if this will help your situation but re-flash your unit with the previous firmware and then back to the latest, sometimes re-flashing the unit will help.

I will consider that... I am just not partial to flashing... bad experiences with mobos before flashprotect.

I'm pretty sure you're describing a lamp flicker, as Ja Phule suggested.



"booker21's bane"!!! ;)

Sometimes, in a fast moving scene in a HD program, I can see a mometary occurrence of what looks like tearing in the brighter parts of the picture. It's probably uniform across the entire screen but just shows up better in bright parts. It may be in the source signal itself, or it may be an artifact of 4805's signal processing. It actually looks a lot like your "waterfall/rolling bars," except it's transient. On the other hand, the "waterfall" I can see in static images as well when it happens, and it doesn't go away (easiest remedy for me being physical disconnect/reconnect of the video cable.) Wonder if these are related?

joe


Mine is not so much tearing... it is a very soft, very fast, very even over the entire screen analogue sort of rolling bars. I wish I could explain it better, but they are so fast and such a manner I don't think I could capture it on anything but a high end DV camcorder...

My waterfall does happen on static images too, when I turn on my xbox I can get it on some menu screens (XBMC or Avalaunch) which are truly static pictures. I am wondering if it's my reicever as when I sometimes changing inputs on the receiver to one that has nothing on it then back fixes it while auto images don't seem to... but it's such a bear to get back there... bah!

Basically no, CR4V880 for instance replaces VideoWith from 854 to 856 automatically.
Could you advise which settings to use for PAL movies? Will 852x480@59.94hz (whic again is replaced with 848) be the best choice in my case?

i believe i first posted these #s

HorizFreq----23688-----VertFreq------4795
VideoWith-----0854-----VideoHeight---0480
HSyncTotal----1030-----PreHSync------0008
HSyncActive---0080-----PostHSync-----0088
VSyncTotal----0494-----PreVSync------0001
VSyncActive---0003-----PostVSync-----0010
HSyncPol------0000-----VSyncPol------0000

when the program CR4V880 first comes up the boxes are empty
hit the icon for Custom Resolution Wizard and you get 3 boxes
NOTE: the Wizard works according to VESA GTF Standard

for NTSC enter 854 - 480 - 47.952

boxes fill in

HorizFreq----23688-----VertFreq------4795
VideoWith-----0856-----VideoHeight---0480
HSyncTotal----1032-----PreHSync------0008
HSyncActive---0080-----PostHSync-----0088
VSyncTotal----0494-----PreVSync------0001
VSyncActive---0003-----PostVSync-----0010
HSyncPol------0000-----VSyncPol------0000

now click the Tweak Panel
unCheck Horizontal is multiple of 8 (VESA GTF Standard)
change Active=856 -> 854
click OK

boxes change to #s for NTSC

HorizFreq----23688-----VertFreq------4795
VideoWith-----0854-----VideoHeight---0480
HSyncTotal----1110-----PreHSync------0044
HSyncActive---0128-----PostHSync-----0084
VSyncTotal----0494-----PreVSync------0001
VSyncActive---0003-----PostVSync-----0010
HSyncPol------0000-----VSyncPol------0000

this is what U should enter per EmuMannen creator of CR4V880 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=330731&highlight=CR4V880)

don't really know to much about PAL...
other than it's 720x576 @ 50hz (http://www.microcinema.com/index/ntsc)
not too sure how that stacks up against the 4805 native resolution 854x480
or the fact FILM is still 24fps.... Someone else will need to answer that (maybe EmuMannen)
it took me awhile to understand 3:2 pull-Down TeleCine ReverseTeleCine (http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_7_4/dvd-benchmark-part-5-progressive-10-2000.html) etc.
i hope i have explained a little about CR4V880 operation

all i can say about the first set of #s
is i was probably confused a little too...(maybe just changed 856-854)
but it works...(still using those #s in both a Bravo D1/Momitsu V880DX)
however the LAST set #s would be CORRECT (as of 3/18 now using last set)

u can get CR4V880 here (http://rennfast.dns2go.com/Public/Momitsu%20DVD/Custom%20settings/cr4v880.zip)

MORE Research yields
EmuMannen said to go with 50hz (49.892) PAL
so plugging 854 - 480 - 49.892 into CR4V880
gives us these:

Custom Resolution for PAL DVDs

HorizFreq----24697-----VertFreq------4989
VideoWith-----0854-----VideoHeight---0480
HSyncTotal----1110-----PreHSync------0044
HSyncActive---0128-----PostHSync-----0084
VSyncTotal----0495-----PreVSync------0001
VSyncActive---0003-----PostVSync-----0011
HSyncPol------0000-----VSyncPol------0000

try this and let us know if this works for PAL

I'm pretty sure you're describing a lamp flicker, as Ja Phule suggested.



"booker21's bane"!!! ;)

Sometimes, in a fast moving scene in a HD program, I can see a mometary occurrence of what looks like tearing in the brighter parts of the picture. It's probably uniform across the entire screen but just shows up better in bright parts. It may be in the source signal itself, or it may be an artifact of 4805's signal processing. It actually looks a lot like your "waterfall/rolling bars," except it's transient. On the other hand, the "waterfall" I can see in static images as well when it happens, and it doesn't go away (easiest remedy for me being physical disconnect/reconnect of the video cable.) Wonder if these are related?

joe

Soooooo sad.... but soooo true.... :(

I´m still wondering if i should send the Pj under warranty or not.... :confused:

I agree that what you describe is more a lamp flicker instead the "blinking".
I do have that as well.. try to use the Pj on High Mode, and see if still happen... if not, then is a lamp Flickering... I do have those flicker as well...

I will consider that... I am just not partial to flashing... bad experiences with mobos before flashprotect.
Ops sorry i see Ja phule replyed you already.

And no.. the Waterfall is not a ground loop i can confirm that since i try the projector on a No ground room... (yeah i know, is dangerous) and did the same thing.

beside, i don´t know you, but i have this waterfall only on HD signals... 480p and 480i work fine.

Mine is not so much tearing... it is a very soft, very fast, very even over the entire screen analogue sort of rolling bars. I wish I could explain it better, but they are so fast and such a manner I don't think I could capture it on anything but a high end DV camcorder...

FWIW, I know exactly what you're talking about with the "waterfall/rolling bar" because I'm getting it, too. I mentioned tearing only because if one sees it and imagine it cover the entire screen, it is similar, at least in size (well, like peak-to-peak distance,) to the waterfall noise/artifact/whatever.

My waterfall does happen on static images too, when I turn on my xbox I can get it on some menu screens (XBMC or Avalaunch) which are truly static pictures. I am wondering if it's my reicever as when I sometimes changing inputs on the receiver to one that has nothing on it then back fixes it while auto images don't seem to... but it's such a bear to get back there... bah!

My setup is source(s)-to-passive-component-video-switcher-to-SP4805. Waterfall happens when it happens. I tried direct source-to-SP4805. Waterfall happens when it happens. Tried different cables of varying length. Still happens when it happens. As Kras suggested a while back, I've tried routing the CATV coax through the Monster power strip instead of using the Jensen isolators. No 60Hz ground-loop humbars (good). Waterfalls still happen (bad).

Since I switched from HDMI to component video output of STB, I see it in HD channels, too, when it happens, so it's not the fact that yours and my Xboxen have been, shall we say, "enhanced." ;) It is certainly most obviously visible with static XBMC or Dashboard backgrounds like Avalaunch. Not so noticeable when actually displaying moving content except in brighter areas.

I've relocated all my AV gear and 4805 to the living room temporarily as I started to prep the family room for some home improvement projects (and make it a bit more home-theater-like while I'm at it.) Gave me the opportunity to cleanup the cabling a bit and not connect the less-used components. Problem persists in the temporary setup as well. I still have not noticed it at all with 480i or 480p content - only with 720p/1080i content.

Your remedy is switching inputs on the receiver. My remedy is to physically disconnect/reconnect the component video cable when I notice the problem (NOT at the back of 4805 - the RCA jacks are not bolted on too securely for my plugs). Interesting that "Auto Image", which I thought forced resync, doesn't fix it for me.

I'm eagerly awating the GA of IN76. If I just swap in the new PJ with all else being equal, and if I don't see the problem after a reasonable number of hours of use, then I would definitely suspect 4805 - like maybe its analog signal processing circuitry's bandwidth. If the problem persists with the new PJ, then I'll know to go nuts trying to see if the cause can be isolated and kicked-off the premises.

joe

Well it's nice to see that the D1 is back.... I was originally going to buy this player, but when the Oppo came out and didn't have any problems or should I say not as many problems, I went with the Oppo. So has anyone compared the Oppo vs. the D1 on the 4805 and seen which is better? That would be interesting I think.

My guess would be that the D1/4805 combo would come out on top due to the 1:1 pixel mapping.

Mouw;
Are you saying to enter the last set of numbers ?
I just entered the ones you posted before, which is the first set in the new post.
It works, but if they should be the other set then I'll change them.
Thanks; mrpergo

if they should be the other set then I'll change them.BRAVO D1 854x480@48Hz DVI Custom Settings:

Horizontal Freq 23688 Vertical Freq 4795
Video Width 0854 Video Height 0480
HSyncTotal 1030 PreHSync 0008
HsyncActive 0080 PostHSync 0088
VSyncTotal 0494 PreVSync 0001
VSyncActive 0003 PostVSync 0010
HSyncPolarity 0000 VSyncPolarity 0000

DVI Out = Custom
TV Type = 16:9

SP4805 defaults all the way except:

RGB Gains (3) = 58
RGB Offsets (3) = 28.5
White Peaking = 0
Aspect Ratio = Native

So which is the best with the 4805...Oppo....D1....D2 I have the Oppo and would be very surprised the players in the Bravo group would outshine it. But I am looking for another player so which one would give me the best of the best.

I have the Oppo and would be very surprised the players in the Bravo group would outshine it.The D1 and D2 will provide an identical image over DVI and both will "outshine" the Oppo. Check out this initial report (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7275762&&#post7275762) which was posted a few pages back by Oppo guru Wes Nance.

I originally had an Oppo but gave it away after I bought my D1.

The D1 and D2 will provide an identical image over DVI and both will "outshine" the Oppo. Check out this initial report (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7275762&&#post7275762) which was posted a few pages back by Oppo owner Wes Nance.

I originally had an Oppo but gave it away after I bought my D1.Interesting...has anyone tried the Momitsu V880 Deluxe with the 4805.

FWIW, I know exactly what you're talking about with the "waterfall/rolling bar" because I'm getting it, too. I mentioned tearing only because if one sees it and imagine it cover the entire screen, it is similar, at least in size (well, like peak-to-peak distance,) to the waterfall noise/artifact/whatever.



My setup is source(s)-to-passive-component-video-switcher-to-SP4805. Waterfall happens when it happens. I tried direct source-to-SP4805. Waterfall happens when it happens. Tried different cables of varying length. Still happens when it happens. As Kras suggested a while back, I've tried routing the CATV coax through the Monster power strip instead of using the Jensen isolators. No 60Hz ground-loop humbars (good). Waterfalls still happen (bad).

Since I switched from HDMI to component video output of STB, I see it in HD channels, too, when it happens, so it's not the fact that yours and my Xboxen have been, shall we say, "enhanced." ;) It is certainly most obviously visible with static XBMC or Dashboard backgrounds like Avalaunch. Not so noticeable when actually displaying moving content except in brighter areas.

I've relocated all my AV gear and 4805 to the living room temporarily as I started to prep the family room for some home improvement projects (and make it a bit more home-theater-like while I'm at it.) Gave me the opportunity to cleanup the cabling a bit and not connect the less-used components. Problem persists in the temporary setup as well. I still have not noticed it at all with 480i or 480p content - only with 720p/1080i content.

Your remedy is switching inputs on the receiver. My remedy is to physically disconnect/reconnect the component video cable when I notice the problem (NOT at the back of 4805 - the RCA jacks are not bolted on too securely for my plugs). Interesting that "Auto Image", which I thought forced resync, doesn't fix it for me.

I'm eagerly awating the GA of IN76. If I just swap in the new PJ with all else being equal, and if I don't see the problem after a reasonable number of hours of use, then I would definitely suspect 4805 - like maybe its analog signal processing circuitry's bandwidth. If the problem persists with the new PJ, then I'll know to go nuts trying to see if the cause can be isolated and kicked-off the premises.

joe

Yeah due to it's intermittance I have not gone through trying to go straight cable to my 4805 recently, but it sounds like we have the same thing and you tried that...

I have not noticed it during SD channels either, but will keep a sharp eye out for it. I am thinking next time I see it I will go from the HD channel to the SD channel and see if it persists, then come back to HD and see if its still there after 2 resyncs.

I find it odd that it seems to effect only some PJs (because most members of this forum would be able to spot it) and that only makes it more annoying.

has anyone tried the Momitsu V880 Deluxe with the 4805.Mouw has both the Momitsu and the Bravo. He has longer experience of the 880 than I do but, IMHO, the 880 and the D1/D2 provide almost the same image. The Bravo has had its issues in the past and the 880 has its own set of issues. But I pretty much suggest that the Bravo/Momitsu and SnaZio are peers when it comes to 1:1 pixel-mapped PQ - each providing a different set of features.

Mouw has both the Momitsu and the Bravo. He has longer experience of the 880 than I do but, IMHO, the 880 and the D1/D2 provide almost the same image. The Bravo has had its issues in the past and the 880 has its own set of issues. But I pretty much suggest that the Bravo/Momitsu and SnaZio are peers when it comes to 1:1 pixel-mapped PQ - each providing a different set of features.Looks like I will be on the hunt for a Bravo D1...I will put my Oppo with my RP set. I noticed you are going to set up a web site on the Bravo mod fix...looking forward to seeing it...Thanks as always...you have been a great help here to all of us. :)

Question for anybody who has sent their 4805 in due to colorwheel buzz, how long did they have to keep it to fix and did the let you know when they shipped it back to you?

This is almost getting out of hand ... I feel badly for the 4805 thread participants who have no interest in the D1 sub-topic.Please don't ever have second thoughts again about sharing your knowledge and wisdom and, above all, your time. This is the kind of thing that makes this forum so great. And I'm also someone who probably will never take advantage of this . . . tho' that could change.

FWIW, I know exactly what you're talking about with the "waterfall/rolling bar" because I'm getting it, too. I mentioned tearing only because if one sees it and imagine it cover the entire screen, it is similar, at least in size (well, like peak-to-peak distance,) to the waterfall noise/artifact/whatever.



My setup is source(s)-to-passive-component-video-switcher-to-SP4805. Waterfall happens when it happens. I tried direct source-to-SP4805. Waterfall happens when it happens. Tried different cables of varying length. Still happens when it happens. As Kras suggested a while back, I've tried routing the CATV coax through the Monster power strip instead of using the Jensen isolators. No 60Hz ground-loop humbars (good). Waterfalls still happen (bad).

Since I switched from HDMI to component video output of STB, I see it in HD channels, too, when it happens, so it's not the fact that yours and my Xboxen have been, shall we say, "enhanced." ;) It is certainly most obviously visible with static XBMC or Dashboard backgrounds like Avalaunch. Not so noticeable when actually displaying moving content except in brighter areas.

I've relocated all my AV gear and 4805 to the living room temporarily as I started to prep the family room for some home improvement projects (and make it a bit more home-theater-like while I'm at it.) Gave me the opportunity to cleanup the cabling a bit and not connect the less-used components. Problem persists in the temporary setup as well. I still have not noticed it at all with 480i or 480p content - only with 720p/1080i content.

Your remedy is switching inputs on the receiver. My remedy is to physically disconnect/reconnect the component video cable when I notice the problem (NOT at the back of 4805 - the RCA jacks are not bolted on too securely for my plugs). Interesting that "Auto Image", which I thought forced resync, doesn't fix it for me.

I'm eagerly awating the GA of IN76. If I just swap in the new PJ with all else being equal, and if I don't see the problem after a reasonable number of hours of use, then I would definitely suspect 4805 - like maybe its analog signal processing circuitry's bandwidth. If the problem persists with the new PJ, then I'll know to go nuts trying to see if the cause can be isolated and kicked-off the premises.

joe
We defintaly have the same waterfall.. all you said... is 100% the same as what i did and have..

did you guys ever though maybe the 4805 was faulty?... just a though... coz really i think i tried almost everything i could think of.. and still the same waterfall...

Oh by the way this only happen on Componente and HD signals... at least on my case.. when i connected my PC via M1 i didn´t saw those scrolling lines... and i output 720p and 1080i signals from the PC.

Well it's nice to see that the D1 is back.... I was originally going to buy this player, but when the Oppo came out and didn't have any problems or should I say not as many problems, I went with the Oppo. So has anyone compared the Oppo vs. the D1 on the 4805 and seen which is better? That would be interesting I think.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=655324

Those of you who already have the Oppo and are getting the Bravo, please vote.

We defintaly have the same waterfall.. all you said... is 100% the same as what i did and have..

did you guys ever though maybe the 4805 was faulty?... just a though... coz really i think i tried almost everything i could think of.. and still the same waterfall...

Oh by the way this only happen on Componente and HD signals... at least on my case.. when i connected my PC via M1 i didn´t saw those scrolling lines... and i output 720p and 1080i signals from the PC.

Same here, only component, only HD signals. I always thought it was a ground loop until I had the electrical redone in my HT room and knew my power was clean and still had the bars. . .

Wes

So which is the best with the 4805...Oppo....D1....D2 I have the Oppo and would be very surprised the players in the Bravo group would outshine it. But I am looking for another player so which one would give me the best of the best.

If you are looking for absolute picture quality, the D1 wins hands down. The OPPO has other things going for it, it does look really good, has some more elegant features, displays, dvd-audio, etc., but for a dvd transport for watching movies, I don't think anything beats the D1 for picture quality on the 4805.

Wes

Uh....what happened to the 4805 thread?

If you are looking for absolute picture quality, the D1 wins hands down. The OPPO has other things going for it, it does look really good, has some more elegant features, displays, dvd-audio, etc., but for a dvd transport for watching movies, I don't think anything beats the D1 for picture quality on the 4805.

WesProblem is finding one...newegg is out of stock. :(

Uh....what happened to the 4805 thread?Sorry maybe we should start a Infocus 4805/Dvd Player thread in the DVD Player thread.

I started a thread in the Dvd Player sect for the 4805/dvd Player...http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7307812#post7307812

Problem is finding one...ubid dot com - chiefvalue dot com - ebay dot com

Uh....what happened to the 4805 thread?

Hey, do you have any idea what the best projector would be to run with a Bravo D1? ;)

I think the Infocus SP-4805 might be a good one :)

Same here, only component, only HD signals. I always thought it was a ground loop until I had the electrical redone in my HT room and knew my power was clean and still had the bars. . .

Wes

Hmmm...

Me: have a non-factory-spec Xbox.
Devdender: mentioned XBMC and Avalaunch, so...
Booker21: mentioned XBMC before, soooooo...

Wes - would you happen to have a non-factory-spec Xbox? ;)

joe

ubid dot com - chiefvalue dot com - ebay dot com

newegg out
chiefvalue out

Recent observation, I have owned my 4805 for about 1 1/2 years. I just recently upgraded to the latest firmware, and have had good results. Prior to the upgrade (original firmware), I had random flickers, most noticeably on bright screens. These flickers have not returned with the firmware upgrade. No problems until tonight....

4805 ceiling mounted, screen perfectly clear-connected to computer via M1. Heat kicks on in the house, first time since the PJ was turned on tonight, and I can see a wavy haze. Think of a camp fire and looking across the fire as the heat rises...distortion.

So the light bulb clicks (in my brain).....the problems with flickering started right about the same time we added a new return air duct in the room!

The supply is about 7 feet away from the PJ, in the ceiling, and the return duct is about twelve feet away on the right of the PJ. The 4805 exhausts heat out of the front left of the case. The return air supply is pulling the heat across the lense (and bulb) of the PJ!!

The flickering usually goes away after a couple hours on high mode. It seems that the extra heat around the lense and bulb may affect the filament of the bulb. FYI

Hmmm...

Me: have a non-factory-spec Xbox.
Devdender: mentioned XBMC and Avalaunch, so...
Booker21: mentioned XBMC before, soooooo...

Wes - would you happen to have a non-factory-spec Xbox? ;)

joe

nope, running my SA8300 HD DVR box from Time Warner over component. But I noticed it also on my Zenith 318 dvd player in 1080i.

Now tonight, no waterfall bars, everything was totally stable. . .

Wes

... did you guys ever though maybe the 4805 was faulty?


Booker21.

I personally hesitate to think of it as a flaw in the 4805. Even though its not the more typical 60Hz or 50Hz hum, I still can't rule out ground-loop because it can be a higher harmonic frequency of the ground-loop source. Just eyeballing the peak-to-peak distance between the 60Hz noise (from memory) and the "waterfall" noise, I'd guess at about 1KHz (give or take a few hundred Hz :p ) or less.

Only thing I can rule out is that it's not the 60Hz hum - which is probably not the only manifestation of ground-loop induced noise, and it doesn't look like anyone here can give you the peace of mind that it is or isn't a problem with the 4805.

If I learn anything new I'll share.

joe

nope, running my SA8300 HD DVR box from Time Warner over component. But I noticed it also on my Zenith 318 dvd player in 1080i.

Now tonight, no waterfall bars, everything was totally stable. . .

Wes

Darn - I'd hoped for establishing a pattern! :D

I'm wondering why I see it almost 100% of the time with XBMC on Xbox set to 720p but very rarely with HD channels through SA8300HD. This is just too much voodoo. Digital systems were always easier for me to understand than analog electronics - especially power engineering. Good times.

joe

more for StrangeZero and other PALs

EmuMannen said to go with 50hz (49.892)
so plugging 854 - 480 - 49.892 into CR4V880
gives us these:

Custom Resolution for PAL DVDs

HorizFreq----24697-----VertFreq------4989
VideoWith-----0854-----VideoHeight---0480
HSyncTotal----1110-----PreHSync------0044
HSyncActive---0128-----PostHSync-----0084
VSyncTotal----0495-----PreVSync------0001
VSyncActive---0003-----PostVSync-----0011
HSyncPol------0000-----VSyncPol------0000

try this and let us know if this works for PAL

Another relatively happy D1 owner here.
I did the loader swap so far and it is working just fine.
I will eventually replace the cap.

My only gripe is that the remote signals for my Pio receiver are the same as some on the D1 so that makes it a pain to use sometimes, but the image is spectacular.

Booker21.

I personally hesitate to think of it as a flaw in the 4805. Even though its not the more typical 60Hz or 50Hz hum, I still can't rule out ground-loop because it can be a higher harmonic frequency of the ground-loop source. Just eyeballing the peak-to-peak distance between the 60Hz noise (from memory) and the "waterfall" noise, I'd guess at about 1KHz (give or take a few hundred Hz :p ) or less.

Only thing I can rule out is that it's not the 60Hz hum - which is probably not the only manifestation of ground-loop induced noise, and it doesn't look like anyone here can give you the peace of mind that it is or isn't a problem with the 4805.

If I learn anything new I'll share.

joe
Thank you Joe...

I never thought it was a pj fault, but when i start trying almost everything... i start to doubt about it.

I guess i still need to try more stuff... since i didn´t the problem yet.
Pls, if u find something new about it, no matter what or even an idea.. let me know ok?..

I really really want to find a solution for this... specially when i get my 360... it will sucks to play HD with those Waterfalls.

Hmmm...

Me: have a non-factory-spec Xbox.
Devdender: mentioned XBMC and Avalaunch, so...
Booker21: mentioned XBMC before, soooooo...

Wes - would you happen to have a non-factory-spec Xbox? ;)

joe

Joe,
Z26 also mentio he got this waterfalls on xbox 360.... :(

can anyone tell me if theatertek supports avi files?

if not, would zoom player work as theaterktek does, with the ability to load it up from within mce 'my movies'

cheers

any ideas?

Would it be ok to use a 35 ft dvi to hdmi cable and then a hdmi to m1 adapter when using a bravo d1? Reason for not using a dvi to m1 cable is I need a smaller end in order to pull the cable thru some holes.

Can anyone comment on sound quality of the bravo D1? How does it compare to the Oppo?

Alex solomon, thank you. You are my hero. I wanted to ask the same question, but was nervous it was too far off topic. Now you can be my scapegoat if it all goes wrong! ;) :p

Most of us are using some kind of digital out from the DVD to our receivers, but audiophiles still think they can hear differences. I haven't heard a difference in one digital to another, but I've never tried a high end ($400+) player.

Has anyone upgraded to the new 1.3.2 firmware for the SP-4805?

I am having weird color oversaturation issues particularly with reds and magentas. I'm not sure if my projector is bad or the firmware screwed it up. Just wanted to know if anyone is experiencing this. I'm using component for everything. The HD signals look good but regular tv is a problem and sometimes video game from my xbox 360.

The cables are of high quality and I have swapped them around to test them on another tv and they're fine.

I also am using an A/V switch from Score/Pelican which allows me to have more fiber optic inputs and component inputs, but maybe that is the problem.

But before I start tearing down I just want to know if others are have issues like mine with or without the new firmware upgrade.

Thanks

Make sure you recalibrate each input.

What is your procedure for recalibration?

Do you own AVIA, DVE or have a movie that has THX calibration tool. Finding Nemo, Star Wars, The Incredibles, etc.,?

You need to calibrate each input source to the 4805...

If your unfamiliar with the process, simply put in one of the above mentioned movies, goto the setup menu, and follow the guide.

P.S.

If your using a standalone dvd player, be sure to feed the 4805 a 480i signal via component cable. This will ensure the optimum picture quality as you'll be utilizing the pj's on board FAROUDJA processor.

What is your procedure for recalibration?

I believe this is accomplished by going into the menu settings and adjusting your picture brightness, colors, contrast, etc...

Since each persons perception of what is "right" is subjective, it'd be nice if people would post what their recalibrated values are after the most recent firmware update.
This is a fantastic thread for all 4805 owners...the DVD player debate is a bit tough to wade through, but helpfull nonetheless. If we could get a consensus from members of what the best recalibrated values are after the 1.3.2 firmware update, it'd be very helpful.

Ok yeah I have done that over the past several days with DVE but like I said once I think I have it set another channel or source poses this problem.

By the how do you like Avia? Is it better than DVE?

Thanks again

Like I said, what you preceive as the best picture is not what someone else is going to think is the best. Both AVIA and DVE are great products, but in the end, only you can decide what looks best for you. Having recalibrated values from other members would be a good starting point. I usually calibrate my picture while watching a good quality DVD AND a good HD source, since those are what I care the most about in terms of good picture quality. If my settings for DVD's and HD are good, but don't look that great for SD TV, I just don't bother with it. As long as what I watch the most and care the most about in terms of PQ is acceptable, all other sources are secondary.

Should I only receive 480i?

Because my DVD player does true 480p

then I have my XBOX 360 which is 480p 720p & 1080i

I gues my question is should I only set my sources to 480i and let the FAROUDJA processor go to town? Which does not seem right 480i is interlaced which means every other horizontal line is blank where as 480p, 720p and 1080i have alot more information being delivered so wouldnt it be best to allow the FAROUDJA processor to downscale or match according to the source? If I set everything to 480i then the FAROUDJA processor has to upscale information.

I have over 250 DVD+R back-ups how well does the Bravo D-1 work with DVD+R disc...I am about to purchase one from ubid...need answer asap. Thanks

Should I only receive 480i?

Because my DVD player does true 480p

then I have my XBOX 360 which is 480p 720p & 1080i

I gues my question is should I only set my sources to 480i and let the FAROUDJA processor go to town? Which does not seem right 480i is interlaced which means every other horizontal line is blank where as 480p, 720p and 1080i have alot more information being delivered so wouldnt it be best to allow the FAROUDJA processor to downscale or match according to the source? If I set everything to 480i then the FAROUDJA processor has to upscale information.

All DVD movies are 480i. If you output 480p from your dvd player, your dvd player will deinterlace 480i to 480p. If you output 480i from your dvd player, the 4805 will deinterlace 480i to 480p (usually better than most dvd players).

Games on the other hand are not 480i, they are usually 480p, 720p, or 1080i. You want to feed the game at these higher resolutions as they do not need to be deinterlaced like movie dvds.

Should I only receive 480i?

Because my DVD player does true 480p

then I have my XBOX 360 which is 480p 720p & 1080i

I gues my question is should I only set my sources to 480i and let the FAROUDJA processor go to town? Which does not seem right 480i is interlaced which means every other horizontal line is blank where as 480p, 720p and 1080i have alot more information being delivered so wouldnt it be best to allow the FAROUDJA processor to downscale or match according to the source? If I set everything to 480i then the FAROUDJA processor has to upscale information.

As I previously mentioned, if your using a stand alone dvd player, then it's best to feed the 4805 a 480i signal via component. True your player maybe capable of passing a 480p signal, and you may initially prefer the 480p signal due the brightness, overstauration and what not, but at the same time you'll be intoducing artifacts to the picture, combing, jaggies etc., When you send the pj a 480p signal, you're bypassing the FAROUDJA relying solely on the player...AND you'll be hard pressed to find a better processor than the FAROUDJA.

As for your XBOX 360, yes use the 480p, 720, 1080i, as that is what the games are rendered in.

Should I only receive 480i?

Because my DVD player does true 480p

then I have my XBOX 360 which is 480p 720p & 1080i

I gues my question is should I only set my sources to 480i and let the FAROUDJA processor go to town? Which does not seem right 480i is interlaced which means every other horizontal line is blank where as 480p, 720p and 1080i have alot more information being delivered so wouldnt it be best to allow the FAROUDJA processor to downscale or match according to the source? If I set everything to 480i then the FAROUDJA processor has to upscale information.

Unless you have a very very good, high end DVD player, it's usually better to let your projector do the scaling. And as you mention, that is only possibly by sending it a 480i image.

Question for anybody who has sent their 4805 in due to colorwheel buzz, how long did they have to keep it to fix and did the let you know when they shipped it back to you?

Anybody??

OK 480i for the DVD player got it.

Now what about my digital cable tv which is a component connection and supports 480i 480p 720p 1080i should I only send 480i to the sp4805 and let FAROUDJA processor take over or should I treat it like the xbox 360 amd use those settings?

Thanks for the wealth of information.

I can see.

I can see, again!

This is where things get tricky, depending on the make of your STB, it may or may not have a native resolution pass thru option. What you wanna do is have the STB pass 480i for the standard def channels, and 720p or 1080i for the high def channels. Keep in mind that the 4805 has only three presets for saving your settings for any particular input. So you may have to sacrifice something for another.

Have a preset for dvd's, one for HDTV, and perhaps one for xbox. I wouldn't worry too much about having a preset for sdtv as sd on the 4805 isn't that great anyway! Prioritize.

So you may have to sacrifice something for another.

Such is life :rolleyes:

it all does,nt matter ifyou can,t find a bulb for it,talked to a sales rep at provantage why the backorder issue is an on going concern for couple of months now and she informed me that replacements would be in last week and the web page updated , apparently she did,nt know what she was talking about because the bulbs still aren,t in....

it all does,nt matter ifyou can,t find a bulb for it,talked to a sales rep at provantage why the backorder issue is an on going concern for couple of months now and she informed me that replacements would be in last week and the web page updated , apparently she did,nt know what she was talking about because the bulbs still aren,t in....

LOL - no $hit....Mine ruptured 2 weeks ago and they told me they'd be in yesterday...still nothing. It would seem that Infocus has some external vendor supply problems.

EDIT:

Just spoke to an Infocus "Direct Sales" rep...he said the delay is becasue the last shipment, which was coming by boat....well, apparently the "boat had to be re-docked" and they are not supposed to be in stock for another 2 weeks. Such a load of CRAP.

Question for anybody who has sent their 4805 in due to colorwheel buzz, how long did they have to keep it to fix and did the let you know when they shipped it back to you?

Anybody??

One user posted a few days ago it was an 8 day turnaround for his color wheel fix.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7286675&&#post7286675

Ok I just flashed between 1.1.3 firmware and 1.3.2 (I dont like 1.2.1 because it causes flickering). The 1.3.2 firmware definitely increases saturation. Anyone else using 1.3.2 experience this?

Also a big thanks to DeerHunter and Agro1 for getting me straight on source inputs. I would like your input regarding the firmware as well since you guys know what your talking about.

Well, with regard to the latest firmware...so far it's been positive. The previous version was and is still believed to be the culprit of the dreaded flicker. I'm using the latest version and will contiue doing so as I haven't seen any issues thus far.

Ok I just flashed between 1.1.3 firmware and 1.3.2 (I dont like 1.2.1 because it causes flickering). The 1.3.2 firmware definitely increases saturation. Anyone else using 1.3.2 experience this?

Also a big thanks to DeerHunter and Agro1 for getting me straight on source inputs. I would like your input regarding the firmware as well since you guys know what your talking about.

Ha - hardly, I've learned everything I know from reading this thread ;) I have yet to flash mine for the new firmware, but I assume you'll have to recalibrate the unit after the upgrade.

The factory defaults on RGB gain and offset are all 50. The initial changes I made to color balance were as follows: red gain, 54; green gain, 48; blue gain, 53; red offset, 52, green offset, 48; blue offset, 50. I'm sure I'll have to make more adjustments after I flash the unit, but I can do that until Infocus sends me a friggin LAMP !!
Calibrations vary by unit, by screen, by sources, etc. So my calibrations may or may not be helpful with your unit in your environment.
Like I said, find a source that you care the most about, (for me it's DVD's and HDTV) calibrate to that source, and then forget it.

Custom Resolution for PAL DVDs

HorizFreq----24697-----VertFreq------4989
VideoWith-----0854-----VideoHeight---0480
HSyncTotal----1110-----PreHSync------0044
HSyncActive---0128-----PostHSync-----0084
VSyncTotal----0495-----PreVSync------0001
VSyncActive---0003-----PostVSync-----0011
HSyncPol------0000-----VSyncPol------0000
-------------------------------------------------------

Thank you all for your help !!! I'll try them out and i'll let you know.


Best Regards.
Stelios

Did you have to recalibrate your settings?

Yup! It's a never ending process. When you think you have everything right, something compells you to check, recheck, then readjust! Don't get hooked by the bug! Tweak it the best you can then put the damn remote away!!! Many here have been or are in divorce proceedings due the many wee-morning hours of tweaking.

TWEAK-ITUS....

"The never ending compulsion to tweak your display to perfection."

Know it...identify it....and at all costs...avoid it! :p ;) :D

What kind of screen are you using?

Also are those settings the recommendations from projector central? And how exactly do you adjust red, blue, green offsets? What am I looking for say when I am using DVE.

Thanks again

You need calibration equipment in order to correctly calibrate the gains/offsets. I'd recommend leaving them at default 50 otherwise. The 4805 comes calibrated very well out of the box. I'd recommend just doing the regular contrast/brightness/color adjustments using calibration dvds like AVIA, and DVE mentioned earlier.

What kind of screen are you using?

Also are those settings the recommendations from projector central? And how exactly do you adjust red, blue, green offsets? What am I looking for say when I am using DVE.

Thanks again

Yes, I did that when I initially got my unit a year and a half ago. But as I said, further adjustments will be necessary after the firmare update.
Just do as Ja Phule suggests and only calibrate regular contrast/brightness/color adjustments.
If that doesn't work and you're still not happy, sell all your AV gear and buy a boat :)

What kind of screen are you using?

Also are those settings the recommendations from projector central? And how exactly do you adjust red, blue, green offsets? What am I looking for say when I am using DVE.

Thanks again

For 480i via component, leave the RGB settings at default. Simply use a calibration tool with the necessary patterns to adjust your brightness, contrast, tint/hue, color.

Can anyone comment on sound quality of the bravo D1? How does it compare to the Oppo?

Alex,

I haven't noticed any difference in the sound of dvd's between the Bravo and the OPPO, running optical to my receiver. . .

Wes

Alex,

I haven't noticed any difference in the sound of dvd's between the Bravo and the OPPO, running optical to my receiver. . .

Wes

Thanks wes. Have you replaced the loader on your D1?

Would it be ok to use a 35 ft dvi to hdmi cable and then a hdmi to m1 adapter when using a bravo d1?Shouldn't be a problem!

Shouldn't be a problem!

How about a 50-foot DVI-M1 cable? Do you think that will work?

Thanks in advance!

- kpf in nyc

Thanks wes. Have you replaced the loader on your D1?

Mine is currently working OK, I am going to replace the capacitor today or tomorrow. According to Cavu, replacing the loader is not necessary, as it was a power supply issue, not a loader issue. I am not planning to replace the loader, just invest the $1.20 for the capacitor. . .

Wes

How about a 50-foot DVI-M1 cable?I suspect it will be OK. Remember that the DVI spec is 15m which converts to 49.21 ft 'Merican ;)

Just wondering if anyone is using a DIY screen, and has painted it, with say Mississipimudds stuff, or has done any comparisons?

I would really like to know if anyone is using anything like this with there sp4805

I just ordered my prismasonic H-600D, going to order a piece of 5ft x 10ft parkland, for a new screen... saying goodbuy to the 16x9 and hello to 2:35:1..

Constant Height seems so exciting!


CAVU: any idea about using a D1 with a CH setup and a sp4805?

CAVU: any idea about using a D1 with a CH setup and a sp4805?Just put the SP4805 into "Letterbox" mode - it works fine!

Mine is currently working OK, I am going to replace the capacitor today or tomorrow. According to Cavu, replacing the loader is not necessary, as it was a power supply issue, not a loader issue. I am not planning to replace the loader, just invest the $1.20 for the capacitor. . .

Wes

About to join the ranks. The Ubid ened about two hours ago. My D1 should be on it's way soon!!! :D Hopefully I'll get the caps I ordered from ratshack as there was no availibility at any of my local stores. I expect the caps will arrive before the D1 so, I will be prepared for the install when the D1 does finally arrive. I'm like a kid waiting for Xmas! Can't wait to get this sucker up and running and enjoy the 1:1 pixel mapped images!

Ha - hardly, I've learned everything I know from reading this thread ;) I have yet to flash mine for the new firmware, but I assume you'll have to recalibrate the unit after the upgrade.

The factory defaults on RGB gain and offset are all 50. The initial changes I made to color balance were as follows: red gain, 54; green gain, 48; blue gain, 53; red offset, 52, green offset, 48; blue offset, 50. I'm sure I'll have to make more adjustments after I flash the unit, but I can do that until Infocus sends me a friggin LAMP !!
Calibrations vary by unit, by screen, by sources, etc. So my calibrations may or may not be helpful with your unit in your environment.
Like I said, find a source that you care the most about, (for me it's DVD's and HDTV) calibrate to that source, and then forget it.

Leave the RGB gain/offsets where they were - Infocus calibrates these at the factory for D65. The changes you have made have destroyed that. Unless you are going to use proper calibration equipment - don't bother. These adjustments are there so that as you get hundreds more hours on the lamp you can fine tune for the changing spectrum of the lamp. Every SP4805 I have measured has been a little bit off like a click or two because of individual lamps - but there has not been any consistent direction.

In fact whoever came up with those number did not know what they are doing - anytime you go above 50 (assuming brightness/contrast is proper) you are crushing the color highlites.

Now if you search the thread for the gain/offset settings for Video DVI - that is OK for those sources - you are not adjusting greyscale since they track each other - you are really just adjusting brightness/contrast.

Nice to hear from KRAS...the Master Jedi!!! ;)

Good to know KRAS, I'll make sure not to mess with them after I install the new firmware. Thanks for the heads up...

Should I only receive 480i?

Because my DVD player does true 480p

then I have my XBOX 360 which is 480p 720p & 1080i

I gues my question is should I only set my sources to 480i and let the FAROUDJA processor go to town? Which does not seem right 480i is interlaced which means every other horizontal line is blank where as 480p, 720p and 1080i have alot more information being delivered so wouldnt it be best to allow the FAROUDJA processor to downscale or match according to the source? If I set everything to 480i then the FAROUDJA processor has to upscale information.

Well, looks like we've gone slightly off tangent from the original query into calibrarion and diverged onto 4805's 480i deinterlacing vs. 480p output of the DVD player. :D

1. Re: calibration - calibrate for each signal type you can receive on the component video input. So, do one calibration by feeding 480i source (like setting your DVD player to 480i or "standard" output), and do another calibration by feeding it 480p (like setting your DVD player to 480p or "progressive scan" output). If you know how to display test patterns for 720p/1080i, you'll probably want separate settings for them from 480p. BUT: as far as I know, with repect to picture adjustment settings over component video input, the 4805 doesn't distinguish among 480p/720p/1080i, so you'll probably want to save the settings as presets and manually switch among presets as you switch among those signal types. Or you might see that a common setting for all of the non-480i signals work well enough.

2. Deinterlacing quality: after calibrating for 480i and 480p, just try and see how the DVD playback looks to you. Set the player to 480i and observe. Set the player to 480p and observe. Try using your Xbox/Xbox 360 as the DVD player and observe. Pick one you like the best! :)

joe

Well, looks like we've gone slightly off tangent from the original query into calibrarion and diverged onto 4805's 480i deinterlacing vs. 480p output of the DVD player. :D ...

OOPS! Sorry - I see this previous reply is redundant in light of preceding replies. Jumped the gun.

One question for anyone in the know. Prior to upgrading the firmware, one common contrast/brightness setting made using THX Optimizer with my DVD player set to 480p worked very well for 480p/720p/1080i, so that covered all HD channels and Xbox games/media-viewing, etc. Now, the setting that work well for 480p DVD player output is terrible for other materials unless I turn down the contrast quite a bit by eyeballing it.

Some googling turned up some mention of HDNet test signals being shown Tuesday mornings at 8:00am eastern time. Set my DVR to record it yesterday morning but all I got was some reruns of long-discontinued sitcoms (I subscribe to Time Warner, Austin, TX.)

Now, to be honest, I'm perfectly happy with the eyeballed adjustment, but I'd like to be able to at least check with some HD test signal/patterns. Are there alternatives? If so, are they worth bothering with?

joe

OOPS! Sorry - I see this previous reply is redundant in light of preceding replies. Jumped the gun.

One question for anyone in the know. Prior to upgrading the firmware, one common contrast/brightness setting made using THX Optimizer with my DVD player set to 480p worked very well for 480p/720p/1080i, so that covered all HD channels and Xbox games/media-viewing, etc. Now, the setting that work well for 480p DVD player output is terrible for other materials unless I turn down the contrast quite a bit by eyeballing it.

Some googling turned up some mention of HDNet test signals being shown Tuesday mornings at 8:00am eastern time. Set my DVR to record it yesterday morning but all I got was some reruns of long-discontinued sitcoms (I subscribe to Time Warner, Austin, TX.)

Now, to be honest, I'm perfectly happy with the eyeballed adjustment, but I'd like to be able to at least check with some HD test signal/patterns. Are there alternatives? If so, are they worth bothering with?

joe

You'll need to go to HDNet website to find the exact air times for the display test patterns. It should get you pretty close to where you need to be as far as HD content goes,and you'll have to be quick unless of course you do like you mentioned and record the test patterns. Also, be aware that some of the test patterns may be off If I remember correctly. Overscan being one of them. Google HDNet test pattern for some more insight.

Via DVI you do or don't need to calibrated with DVE? I guess I've learned the RGB's are greyed out once connected, but I guess I thought there were offsets or something I need to adjust. I'm waiting on my money to order I should have it all in a week I hope. SP4805, D1 and DVI to M1 and ceiling mount. I'll mod D1 in next 2 weeks. CAVU can you post a link to a Power Suppy I should buy like you did with the capacitors. Thanks David

Ok I just flashed between 1.1.3 firmware and 1.3.2 (I dont like 1.2.1 because it causes flickering). The 1.3.2 firmware definitely increases saturation. Anyone else using 1.3.2 experience this?

Also a big thanks to DeerHunter and Agro1 for getting me straight on source inputs. I would like your input regarding the firmware as well since you guys know what your talking about.

Something about the picure does feel "better" just can't put my finger on it, and I messed with my cable box at the same time so that coudl be contributing a lot of the issues.

It does feel a little warmer or something though (color wise) especially on HD content...

Via DVI you do or don't need to calibrated with DVE?You do. Preset Bob Williams RGB Offset/Gain numbers (58/28.5) before you calibrate the D1 and don't be surprised if your brightness/contrast are at default when you are done. Bob determined those "magic" numbers by using a D1 in the first place.CAVU can you post a link to a Power Suppy I should buy like you did with the capacitors.If you want to buy the entire PS board, contact Vizio customer support directly at 888-849-4623. I think they're still $45. Make sure that the replacement PS you purchase has had the cap replaced already or you'll be doing this again!! ;) Talk to Mark Mayer if the CSR doesn't know what you are talking about.

If you want to buy the entire PS board, contact Vizio customer support directly at 888-849-4623. I think they're still $45. Make sure that the replacement PS you purchase has had the cap replaced already or you'll be doing this again!! ;) Talk to Mark Mayer if the CSR doesn't know what you are talking about.

Why not just have him do the ps mod. That way he'll be ensuring that the cap is good. Not mention save a few bucks and not have to deal with the headache of getting a new board from Vinc., and hoping the cap is good?

If you want to buy the entire PS board, contact Vizio customer support directly at 888-849-4623. I think they're still $45. Make sure that the replacement PS you purchase has had the cap replaced already or you'll be doing this again!! ;) Talk to Mark Mayer if the CSR doesn't know what you are talking about.

I just want what I need, I need to replace more than just the capacitor, right? I thought the D1 needed a capacitor and a power supply unit. I don't want to relace the whole board if I don't need to. I assumed it was a small 30 watt/or higher PS unit I needed and would get it after market like the other items you have shown. If I don't need a PS unit but just need a capacitor, then great. I'm still unclear if the one takes care of the other.

You'll need to go to HDNet website to find the exact air times for the display test patterns...

Of course - get it directly from the horse's mouth! Thanks for the pointer. Looks like the next one will be shown on Mar. 21 (5:50am my time.)

joe

I just want what I need, I need to replace more than just the capacitor, right? I thought the D1 needed a capacitor and a power supply unit. I don't want to relace the whole board if I don't need to. I assumed it was a small 30 watt/or higher PS unit I needed and would get it after market like the other items you have shown. If I don't need a PS unit but just need a capacitor, then great. I'm still unclear if the one takes care of the other.

The D1 needs the capacitor to fix the PS issue, not both unless the new PS does not have the good capacitor

Of course - get it directly from the horse's mouth! Thanks for the pointer. Looks like the next one will be shown on Mar. 21 (5:50am my time.)

joe

I know what you mean. They used to run them at like 7:50am on tuesdays, but I guess they've changed that. Luckily for you you have a DVR to record them. Me, I don't have a DVR, and had to actually watch them and work fast as they only run for about ten minutes!

I just want what I need, I need to replace more than just the capacitor, right? I thought the D1 needed a capacitor and a power supply unit.No you don't need "both". The capacitor is part of the PS board - you just need to replace it unless your PS board is completely toasted.

No you don't need "both". The capacitor is part of the PS board - you just need to replace it unless your PS board is completely toasted.

:) great news

All this talk of D1 capacitors got me to thinking:

Why the hell do companies make these and other "expensive" units and then chintz out on a $0.40 capicitor? It's ridiculous to me, since the DR-MV1/DR-M10/DR-others did the same thing, along with some other really nice items in the past. Is it worth ruining your reputation or taking back a bunch of units later on just to save a measly 10 cents or so? I know they want to cut costs as much as possible, but there are other ways to do it than messing around with something as important as a power supply. I'm not the dumbest person on earth, but screwing around with power supplies is not something I'm all too comfortable doing. I'd rather swap out a complete loader or other part than mess around with soldering tiny capicitors any day.

Which leads me to asking Cavu for another favor. Maybe the next time you perform the capacitor swap, you could post a few pics during the process? I could probably do it if I had some images of the before/during/after moments. At least I'd feel more at ease seeing that I'm doing it right along the way. It might save you a few shipments coming to your door from people like myself, should you continue to offer to help us out as you so graciously have. :)

Quote:
Originally Posted by tivo1
CAVU: any idea about using a D1 with a CH setup and a sp4805?

Just put the SP4805 into "Letterbox" mode - it works fine!

I may be getting a little old or I've been here in the desert to long and need to get back to Virginia, BUT, Isn't the big feature with the D1 the ability to do 1:1 mapping. It is my understanding, and correct me if i'm wrong, that to do 1:1 mapping the following needs to be true;
1. The 4805 is set to native mode.
2. The source signal to the 4805 must be digital.
3. The source set to 854X480 (852X480, 848x480)

If the three needs above are correct then wouldn't you kill you mapping by going to Letterbox mode?

I know with my setup, DVDO iScan HD+, if I even set overscan it blows my 1:1 mappings. I can tell by the checkerboard test pattern from the iScan.

I'm not the dumbest person on earth, but screwing around with power supplies is not something I'm all too comfortable doing. I'd rather swap out a complete loader or other part than mess around with soldering tiny capicitors any day.

Only problem with that is even if you replace the loader, you still have the origional POS oem ps board!!!

It really doesn't require an illustrated intruction. The picture that cavu already posted with the capacitor in question already identified is all you need.


#1-Record the polarity of the capacitor that is on the board before you remove it. Draw a picture if it helps you remember. (Which side is +, and which is -)

#2-You use a fine pointed solder gun/pencil and heat the solder that joins the 2 leads of the capacitor to the board. Do them one at a time. Use a turkey baster-type thing (it has a name that slips my mind) to suck up the molten solder. This is the hardest part.

#3-If #2 was done correctly, then the capacitor should simply fall out. Otherwise continue with step #2. Once the old capacitor is removed, insert the new capacitor. Depending on the size of your replacement and the space tolerances, this part may require some creativity. Make sure the polarity matches that of the origional capacitor's orientation.

#4-use the soldering utensil to heat the leads of the capacitor one at a time. While the heat is being applied, add some solder (with resin is best, otherwise you need to do some cleaning up first). When the temp is right it should liquify quickly and fill the holes around the leads. Remove the soldering utensil, and the solder should harden quickly. Repeat this for the other lead.

#5-Carefully clip the excess leads from the bottom.

DONE!


Well maybe pictures might help if you don't know what any of this is...but in that case the whole thing could be a risky adventure no matter the instructions!

All those who bought the D1 from ubid, please let us know how the deal went. I see it relisted with another qty of 50 so it looks like the supply is somewhat endless and may rather be a clone that a production overrun. Thanks.

Which leads me to asking Cavu for another favor. Maybe the next time you perform the capacitor swap, you could post a few pics during the process? I could probably do it if I had some images of the before/during/after moments. At least I'd feel more at ease seeing that I'm doing it right along the way. It might save you a few shipments coming to your door from people like myself, should you continue to offer to help us out as you so graciously have. :)

cavu has mentioned he will put up a web site soon. Stay tuned...

All those who bought the D1 from ubid, please let us know how the deal went. I see it relisted with another qty of 50 so it looks like the supply is somewhat endless and may rather be a clone that a production overrun. Thanks.

yeah, I noticed the same thing. Some feedback would be great.

Why the hell do companies make these and other "expensive" units and then chintz out on a $0.40 capicitor?I don't think this was a deliberate cost-cutting measure - certainly not a choice by Vizio as it almost totalled their reputation! The power supply circuit board involved is pretty much an "off-the-shelf" (albeit specialized) OEM product produced by a Chinese manufacturer ("Power Supplies R Us"). The design of the board is certainly adequate but the fly-in-the-ointment is that their supplier of components capacitors ("KSD") had a contaminant or other manufacturing defect in the capacitor itself. The entire power supply at the OEM level in China is probably worth about $4.00.

This situation more reminds me of the time that a misplaced semi-colon in some firmware sent a space probe directly into the sun!
;)Maybe the next time you perform the capacitor swap, you could post a few pics during the process? That's EXACTLY what I will be doing. I'm just waiting for my new shipment of caps.It might save you a few shipments coming to your door from people like myselfWhat!!?? And endanger the intimate relationship I am developing with my newest best friend, the FEDEX guy?? Not on your life!

all of a sudden, both newegg and chiefvalue also have them back instock today. Looks like these are being produced continuously

wouldn't you kill [1:1] mapping by going to Letterbox mode?Yes.

... The design of the board is certainly adequate but the fly-in-the-ointment is that their supplier of components capacitors ("KSD") had a contaminant or other manufacturing defect in the capacitor itself...

Is this any way related to similar problems we've had not too long ago with faulty capacitors plaguing personal computers of most PC vendors?

I remember reading an interesting article about that. It alleged a Chinese scientist working for a Japanese company more-or-less stealing the formula for a key ingredient of capacitors and taking it with him to his new employer. It went on to say that his new employer got the final formula wrong - or maybe it said the stolen formula itself wasn't final - or something to that effect.

The result was the far-reaching mess with bad capacitors in many PCs (and probably other types of electronic equipments.) I don't know how true it is, but the article was posted on a reputable site (I just don't remember where exactly :p ).

joe

The other day I posted that my rebate was refused because Sam's Club is not an authorized reseller. I talked to the G.M. today and he said bring it back if I'm not fully satisfied. He said I could bring it back today or 2 years from now, my choice. They want their members to be satisfied. Now it looks like I have a free demo until I'm ready to upgrade . I work at Sam's, but this would apply to anyone. Also, there are probably warrenty issues as well as the non-rebate. My gm said Sam's buys through 3rd party vendors for the best price. He was unaware that we were not authorized resellers. Just thought I would relay this info for everyone.

Anyone got a good at least 2-port DVI switch they can recommend, preferable with IR control?

The computer capacitor debocle was indeed true. No idea how it came about, mad scientists or not. Faulty capacitors were supplied to many large productions. It happened to Asus (a motherboard manufacturer) among others. I witnessed it first hand when a capacitor on my Kt7-raid motherboard popped/blew/etc.

Many of you may also be connected to the internet through a Linksys BEFSR41 which has a true capacitor 'design error'. A number of factors cause the capacitor to get too hot and if you open the case up you should even see the top of the capacitor bulging out.

I'm glad I ditched the BEFSR41 a few years ago for a more reliable router.

That's EXACTLY what I will be doing. I'm just waiting for my new shipment of caps.

No request seems to be too great! Once again, cavu, YOU'RE THE BEST! Dorks like me need all the help we can get. If you ever need instructions on how to clone blastocyst-derived pluripotent ES cells, don't hesitate to ask! :D

ubid dot com - chiefvalue dot com - ebay dot comWell I bought one from Ubid.com...hopefully shipping soon. Should I wait to see if these new units already have the so called fix...or should I order whatever I need now...and wait for your in depth fix it upper special web site or thread. :)

Is the D1, DVI-D or DVI-I. I'm going to buy from Monoprice and I only need about 6ft, but I might as well get more if my install changes down the road. I shouldn't have any issuse with a 15ft cable right? I know some of the 30ft+ ones start to have problems and I'd ultimately prefer the shortest cable but I'll kick myself down the road for not buying the extra length cable now. I think I need DVI-I to M1 right and I'm geting a Samsung SIR-T451 HDTV Tuner so would that work with it since it's DVI out of the T451 or do I need some sort of HDMI cable? Also CAVU I did a search for the Nichicon capcitors but don't feel good about relying on my own info. Could you post a link to one I could buy, Since these are so cheap the very best is no big deal to me just point me the way. Thanks alot david

Is the D1, DVI-D or DVI-I.DVI-D = Digital only
DVI-A = Analog only.
DVI-I = Both.

The D1 is digital only out, so the DVI-D is the correct cable but the DVI-I cable will work fine.

An advantage to getting a DVI-I cable is that, in the future you could get a splitter and feed both the digital and a component signal to the projector through the same cable.
I know some of the 30ft+ ones start to have problemsOnly on the D2 - the D1 works fine (and so does my Motorola DCT6412 FWIW).

... Prior to upgrading the firmware, one common contrast/brightness setting made using THX Optimizer with my DVD player set to 480p worked very well for 480p/720p/1080i, so that covered all HD channels and Xbox games/media-viewing, etc. Now, the setting that work well for 480p DVD player output is terrible for other materials unless I turn down the contrast quite a bit by eyeballing it...

At the risk of seemingly obsessive - and idiotic replying to my own post.

I mentioned before that what I describe as "relative contrast" changed after the firmware upgrade. What I mean by that is, with all being equal, with the Contrast setting at some number "N" both before and after the update, the actual displayed contrast became quite a bit higher requiring me to lower the Contrast value below "N".

On a whim, after work, I performed a "Factory Reset", and it changed again.

Looking at a "reference" static image @ 720p (custom background image which I see everytime I fire up the Xbox) whose details in brightest parts I can remember well, before performing the "Factory Reset", the satisfactory Contrast setting was 40. Now, after the "Factory Reset", I need to up the Contrast to 48.

Before the firmware update, the Contrast was 62 to perceive the equivalent contrast level with same image, and this number was obtained from THX Optimizer with the 480p DVD player output. In fact, this is still the best setting @480p according to THX Opimizer, and 480i settings didn't require any change (after firmware update and after "Factory Reset".) Of course, as per knowledgeable recommendations, all advanced settings (e.g. RGB gain/offset) were always at default (except Bob's magic numbers for DVI.)

I still can't get a common Contrast/Brightness setting to work well for me for all 480p/720p/1080i sources I have as was the case before firmware update, but, of course, the real point I'm trying to make is that recalibration was necessary after "Factory Reset". In my case, the Contrast changes after firmware update and after "Factory Reset" seems to apply only to 720p/1080i sources.

Perhaps the recommended procedure to go through after a firmware update is do a "Factory Reset" and check your calibration. YMMV.

joe

Thats what I thought DVI-I it is.... I'm ordering the D1 from NewEgg on Friday as the Ubid with shipping is only $10 saved and I want to get NOW instead of a week from now so I can start the mod even before my 4805 arrives.

Just wondering if anyone is using a DIY screen, and has painted it, with say Mississipimudds stuff, or has done any comparisons?

I would really like to know if anyone is using anything like this with there sp4805

I just ordered my prismasonic H-600D, going to order a piece of 5ft x 10ft parkland, for a new screen... saying goodbuy to the 16x9 and hello to 2:35:1..

Constant Height seems so exciting!


CAVU: any idea about using a D1 with a CH setup and a sp4805?

I have a DIY screen - original MMUD on drywall. 4805 looks great!

I too am running CH, but I went with the Momitsu 880DX dvd player.
1:1 pixel mapping AND x-y scaling, so I can stretch image with the dvd player and leave PJ in native mode (still pixel mapped).

CH is just fantastic! You're gonna love it.

TC

I have a DIY screen - original MMUD on drywall. 4805 looks great!

I too am running CH, but I went with the Momitsu 880DX dvd player.
1:1 pixel mapping AND x-y scaling, so I can stretch image with the dvd player and leave PJ in native mode (still pixel mapped).

CH is just fantastic! You're gonna love it.

TC

TC,

Explain the x-y scaling? I believe the Momitsu and the D1 have the same "secret" custom menu, so what is the difference in your setup between different aspect ratios? I'm intrigued. . .

Thanks!

Wes

This is the first time I have heard x-y scaling. What is it?

X-Y scaling allows you to adjust the actual height and width of the picture within your frame. It's a nice feature, but I think only a handful of players do it. It helps for movies that don't perfectly fill up the screen (example, Fifth Element has a small black bars on the side). With CH setups getting popular, X-Y is also a good feature nowadays.

TC,

Explain the x-y scaling? I believe the Momitsu and the D1 have the same "secret" custom menu, so what is the difference in your setup between different aspect ratios? I'm intrigued. . .

Thanks!

Wes

As Ja Phule said above, I can stretch or squeeze image horizontally and/or vertically. Since this takes place in dvd player, I can still output a pixel mapped image to PJ and leave PJ in "Native" mode - no scaling. Perfect, IMO, for 4805 and constant height.

As far as I know, only the Momitsu offers both x-y scaling and custom resolution (pixel mapping).

I must add, the Momitsu remote sux, and the loader isn't the best. I usually use a universal remote, and I replaced the loader with a Lite-On (20 bucks).
PQ is fantastic, tho!

TC

I have a DIY screen - original MMUD on drywall. 4805 looks great!

I too am running CH, but I went with the Momitsu 880DX dvd player.
1:1 pixel mapping AND x-y scaling, so I can stretch image with the dvd player and leave PJ in native mode (still pixel mapped).

CH is just fantastic! You're gonna love it.

TC


COuld you go into this a bit more.. i think i get it, but seems there is something im not grasping... if i got the D1, im thinking my 16x9 and everything would be 1:1 but id have to switch it to a different mode when i went to a 2:35 movie?

going to look into the momitsu!

For any of you waiting for a replacement lamp for your 4805, or, for anyone that will be ordering one in the near future, I think I have good news for you...

This is per my conversation with someone at Focused Technology in Florida. Apparently, the lamp housing for the X2 (part number SP-LAMP-018) is an IDENTICAL unit, even though it has a different part number. The bulb is the same and it works fine with the 4805, they have tested it and it works no problem - the cost is also about $50 cheaper.

Mine will be here tomorrow and I'll report back as soon as I have a chance to test it.

For any of you waiting for a replacement lamp for your 4805, or, for anyone that will be ordering one in the near future, I think I have good news for you...

This is per my conversation with someone at Focused Technology in Florida. Apparently, the lamp housing for the X2 (part number SP-LAMP-018) is an IDENTICAL unit, even though it has a different part number. The bulb is the same and it works fine with the 4805, they have tested it and it works no problem - the cost is also about $50 cheaper.

Mine will be here tomorrow and I'll report back as soon as I have a chance to test it.

Makes sense to me as the 4805 & X2 are nearly identicle, except for the guts!!! ;)

Anyone have a problem with the image shifting awhen you move the focus ring? This is the 2nd 4805 that is doing this. The image moves only when I use the focus ring. Its like a shimmy. I'm assuming that I'm just going to have to deal with it. Small price to pay as long as it does not get any worse.

For any of you waiting for a replacement lamp for your 4805, or, for anyone that will be ordering one in the near future, I think I have good news for you...

This is per my conversation with someone at Focused Technology in Florida. Apparently, the lamp housing for the X2 (part number SP-LAMP-018) is an IDENTICAL unit, even though it has a different part number. The bulb is the same and it works fine with the 4805, they have tested it and it works no problem - the cost is also about $50 cheaper.

Mine will be here tomorrow and I'll report back as soon as I have a chance to test it.

That's great news, especially if it gets bulbs for 4805 owners who cant get a real 4805 bulb. wonder if it will last as long...

Anyone have a problem with the image shifting awhen you move the focus ring? This is the 2nd 4805 that is doing this. The image moves only when I use the focus ring. Its like a shimmy. I'm assuming that I'm just going to have to deal with it. Small price to pay as long as it does not get any worse.

Is it possible you are slightly moving the pj?

For any of you waiting for a replacement lamp for your 4805, or, for anyone that will be ordering one in the near future, I think I have good news for you...

This is per my conversation with someone at Focused Technology in Florida. Apparently, the lamp housing for the X2 (part number SP-LAMP-018) is an IDENTICAL unit, even though it has a different part number. The bulb is the same and it works fine with the 4805, they have tested it and it works no problem - the cost is also about $50 cheaper.

Mine will be here tomorrow and I'll report back as soon as I have a chance to test it.

The lamp inside is the same, but the housing is different. Anyone who puts one next to the other should be able to see the differences. The bottom line is that although it will function, an X2 lamp will run too hot inside of an SP4805.

The lamp inside is the same, but the housing is different. Anyone who puts one next to the other should be able to see the differences. The bottom line is that although it will function, an X2 lamp will run too hot inside of an SP4805.

In other words... "It's gonna blow!" :)

Sounds too risky for me. I'd hate to throw away $300 like that. When I first read agro1's post, I thought he stated he talked to someone from Infocus, but I just realized it's a company called Focused....

Anyone have a problem with the image shifting awhen you move the focus ring? This is the 2nd 4805 that is doing this. The image moves only when I use the focus ring. Its like a shimmy. I'm assuming that I'm just going to have to deal with it. Small price to pay as long as it does not get any worse.
I have the same problem but this i think is coz i´m moving the projector a bit....
I didn´t think is coz the Pj have some issues.

The lamp inside is the same, but the housing is different. Anyone who puts one next to the other should be able to see the differences. The bottom line is that although it will function, an X2 lamp will run too hot inside of an SP4805.
while ur here Bob...
could you tell us about the Lamps in the new INxx series
is this the same LAMP (not assembly) that's in the 4805 ?
because the specs on your site look identical

In other words... "It's gonna blow!" :)

Sounds too risky for me. I'd hate to throw away $300 like that. When I first read agro1's post, I thought he stated he talked to someone from Infocus, but I just realized it's a company called Focused....

Ahhhhh.....I thought the same thing!

been over on the PRESS RELEASE: New Infocus Lineup - 720p Dlp $2999 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=620726) thread
decided to concentrate on Bob Williams (Infocus Engineer) posts
in order to see what the Differences between the new IN72 vs SP4805 are
this is what Bob Williams says:

Quieter (box design--ventilation--Color Wheel motor)
Pixelwords deInterlacer/scaler (Faroudja) 10bit vs 8bit video decoder
same DLP by Texas Instruments: DarkChip2 480p 12 degree DDR DMD
Lens optimized improves contrast/Black uniformity (still has same specs)
Calibration out-of-box is BETTER
NO Lamp screens to Clean
Aluminum Lamp Housing - minimizes outgasing (inside stays cleaner)
Minimum Light Leakage (ventilation is SideWays)
720 Lumens (vs 600) in Low Power due improved Optical Engine
Lamp 200-watt SHP (not Assembly) is the same in 4805 and all INxx projectors
Contrast Ratio 2000:1 (same #) but Lab measures slight improvement
Remote new design (backlit w/flashlight)
User Customizable Splash Screen
Connections all in the back
Ceiling Mount Plate (Universal) is same for 4805 and all INxx projectors
weight 9.3lbs vs 6.8lbs (36%increase)


Some user interface differences relative to the SP4805:
- Additional resizing mode called "Natural Wide".
- Auto image function is now available through the menu.
- Color space menu now includes RGB Video selection for digital RGB sources (currently IN74, IN76 only).
- Color temperature menu now includes "Native" to change to the native projector color temperature.
- A third overscan mode called "crop" has now been included, which crops the outside 3% of the image without
rescaling it.
- Flesh Tone Correction toggle has been added to produce more pleasing colors for skin complexion (defaults to off).
- The preset menu now includes a default setting so that the user can change to the factory default settings without resetting the whole projector.
- The startup logo can now be captured by the user (currently IN72 only).
- A sleep timer is now included.
- A verbose "source info" function is now included for better understanding of what the projector thinks your source is.
- A "service info" function is now included that shows all of the service oriented information including the projector serial number.
- Internal test patterns are now included in the service menu.
- A "blue only" function is now included so that you do not have to use a blue filter when calibrating with Avia or Video Essentials.
- The automatic ceiling detection can be toggled on or off.
- The HDMI extended EDID can be toggled on or off to resolve problems on older graphics cards.
- The menus and splash screen now can be keystoned with the rest of the image when electronic keystone correction is used.
- Discrete remote codes for 10 functions:

Discrete Power OFF
Discrete Power ON
Native Resize
16:9 Resize
4:3 Resize
Letterbox Resize
Natural Wide Resize
User Preset 1
User Preset 2
User Preset 3

Bob Williams said about IN72 vs SP4805 "Looking at them side-by-side"
colors are more accurate and appear more saturated due to the brighter image
scaler produces a sharper picture without significant ringing
contrast is higher than before (although the stated spec is the same)
out-of-box calibration is better so less messing around is required
less noise in standard definition material due to the higher bit-depth video decoder

-----------------------------
judging from all of this....IMO
i don't think performance wise there is going to be a HUGE difference in PQ
More Lumens will work best for larger screens---say bigger than 80x45in (92diag-25sqft)
price wise now on Infocus site $1300 vs 1000 (i would get the IN72)
but if the $$ fall for the 4805 after IN72 release to say <$700
the 4805 will still be HARD to beat....

judging from all of this....IMO
i don't think performance wise there is going to be a HUGE difference in PQ
More Lumens will work best for larger screens---say bigger than 80x45in (92diag-25sqft)
price wise now on Infocus site $1300 vs 1000 (i would get the IN72)
but if the $$ fall for the 4805 after IN72 release to say <$700
the 4805 will still be HARD to beat....

Great post. Very good observation. The biggest advantages I see the IN72 has over 4805 are:
-Better color wheel design
-I believe it has sealed optics (no dust blobs to worry about)
-Quieter
-No filters to clean

The lamp inside is the same, but the housing is different. Could the X2 lamp be (carefully ;)) moved into the 4805 housing??

COuld you go into this a bit more.. i think i get it, but seems there is something im not grasping... if i got the D1, im thinking my 16x9 and everything would be 1:1 but id have to switch it to a different mode when i went to a 2:35 movie?

going to look into the momitsu!

If your setup is: 4805 + D1 + anamorphic lens (horizontal expansion), then yes - you will have to switch PJ to letterbox mode for 2.35 films. This will stretch image vertically to fill your screen. Your lens will stretch it horizontally, restoring proper geometry.

For 16x9 material, you would have to move lens out of the light path, OR switch PJ to 4:3 mode

TC

Those remote codes are very tempting too!!! Discrete power is always welcome and with a PJ the risk of accidentally turning it off with a universal remote is scary.
Also the discrete display modes makes adding functions to a programmable remote much easier...

That added to the performance improvements makes me think I would have to consider it at $300 more if I were shopping.

Could the X2 lamp be (carefully ;)) moved into the 4805 housing??
As a former mechanical engineer I would say yes since the module can be disassembled and reassembled without damage if you know what you're doing, but as an InFocus representative I have to say that this approach is not recommended because the lamp module is not designed to be serviced by the end user.

Those remote codes are very tempting too!!! Discrete power is always welcome and with a PJ the risk of accidentally turning it off with a universal remote is scary.
Also the discrete display modes makes adding functions to a programmable remote much easier...

That added to the performance improvements makes me think I would have to consider it at $300 more if I were shopping.

Also nice, I had originally programmed my remote to switch projector inputs, but that didn't work as it seems pressing the source buttons can also trigger the 4805 to come on while in standby mode.

while ur here Bob...
could you tell us about the Lamps in the new INxx series
is this the same LAMP (not assembly) that's in the 4805 ?
because the specs on your site look identical
The lamp in the IN72, IN74, and IN76 is the same as the one in the SP4805, but they are certainly not interchangeable because of the differences in the assembly and the wire length to the connector.

I am planning on buying a 4805 soon (spring/summer), would I be well advised to wait till AFTER the IN72's release? Will the 4805 have a significant price drop, or will all 4805 sales halt?

This might be a stupid question, but I didn't see any definite responses after searching and I haven't been around long enough to see past trends.

I am planning on buying a 4805 soon (spring/summer), would I be well advised to wait till AFTER the IN72's release? Will the 4805 have a significant price drop, or will all 4805 sales halt?

This might be a stupid question, but I didn't see any definite responses after searching and I haven't been around long enough to see past trends.

If you are willing to wait a month or 2, then I'd suggest doing that.

As an InFocus representative I have to say that this approach is not recommended because the lamp module is not designed to be serviced by the end user.Gotcha.

I have had an old NEC Multisync LT81 projector that has served me well for the past year or two for dvd movie nights and some xbox games. Alas, I need to replace it today or tomorrow.

I was settled on the InFocus 4805--it has gotten so many good reviews, and seems to be reliable--but can't quite decide whether the the IN72 or Infocus 5000 would be better.

I like having a projector better than a huge bulky TV. We just watch stuff on the wall, at night or with the blinds closed. I'm not looking for the best home movie setup ever created, just a good, reliable projector for my money.

Any advice is welcome. Thanks in advance for your wisdom.

I am planning on buying a 4805 soon (spring/summer), would I be well advised to wait till AFTER the IN72's release? Will the 4805 have a significant price drop, or will all 4805 sales halt?

This might be a stupid question, but I didn't see any definite responses after searching and I haven't been around long enough to see past trends.

It is not going to last that long as for as production units since the IN72 replaces it - but you can always find refurbs & used on the market. Exactly how cheap does it need to get? Already it can be found for a fraction of the $1.5K original MSRP - it is nearing the point that the lamp replacements will cost more than the projector! (as is already the case with the SP4800 previous model). At some point you have to say it is cheap enough....

Gotcha.


So says the man who likes to play with failed capacitors for fun....

Well i'm looking to buy a new one, rather than refurb. The lowest price i'm finding new is $899 on Radio Shack online. Would this price decrease come summertime, or will RadioShack drop the model all together? How long does it take companies to phase out older models? Crutchfield, BestBuy. and Circuit City all carry the 4805, will they return them to the factory or will there be a sale period?

So says the man who likes to play with failed capacitors for fun....You talkin' to me!? You talkin' to me!?Contact the Underground to get your 4805 lamp rebuilt!! ;)

I was settled on the InFocus 4805--it has gotten so many good reviews, and seems to be reliable--but can't quite decide whether the the IN72 or Infocus 5000 would be better.Hey Vic Y, here's your chance! Go for it.

nafeivom, HERE (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7312223&&#post7312223) are my thoughts on this question.

Bob W, are you able to provide a 'qualified' opinion on this question!!

Nice to see that Bob W. is still monitoring these threads, and pops in once in a while. He's like the know all, rich uncle, we all want to stop by for visit! :D