Your pricing argument is why I think the IN74EX will be squeezed out once MSRP discounting starts.

I just think the discounts will be heavier. Street for the IN74EX I bet is going to be 2-3 notes higher than a IN72 and that little is justified imo. But not 7 notes more.


As far as your IN72 breakdown, I'm sure you have put digital equipment to a NEW SP4805 and came up with your contrast numbers, I just want to see what your equipment says about the true numbers of the IN72, regardless if you do a side by side take on them. I'm assuming we know what the true real world numbers are for a new SP4805 and I'm not talking Infocus numbers even if they are close to the true output. I'm just looking for some reliable info. I know the IN72 isn't a lot better than the SP4805 image wise, I'm just curious about the Black and Contrast and Pixelworks performance. Even if it's just a few % better which is most likely the case, I haven't fully ruled out a SP4800 but lean about 90% towards the IF72 but still haven't heard anyones take on the Black Levels.

hmmm I think I'll get mine from Ubid tonight. I think the D1 will play pal DVD's and I should be able to 1:1 a pal DVD to the IN74EX through it's menu. If I chose that route. Some sites say right off that the D1 will play Pal's and then other sites make me think I have to enter in a code to unlock or something. I'm not that up to speed on the whole region free stuff but it can't be very hard. I'm thinking of geting an IF74EX and D1 and then on my top 30 DVD's I'll get in PAL and the stuff I don't care that much about I'll get in NTSC, IF I go that route. May cause me to many problems like reseting the D1 from PAL to NTSC and back and forth. Not willing to pay much more for the IN74EX so we'll see, hopefully slow sales will drive then down quick. Just another option.

Kras

Hope you come across this question - seems you pop in and out a little less these days I guess since bigger and better things are coming to some of the lucky ones!

I searched the old thread ad nauseum to find which test patterns to use to decipher chroma detail. I read that with the Faroudja TrueLife adjustments, you try to squeek out some chroma detail while calibrating.

And with Chewbacco, you added no excess luma detail in ffdshow (which I assume means the default for Lanczos 2 and not add any luma sharpen) and a "little chroma detail".

I own both Avia and DVE, so any reference to any test pattern would be great. I have no luma detail and chroma sharpen set to .4, which I guessed would be "a little."

Good to still see that you drop in from time to time.

Originally Posted by scottwood2
I think that may be the problem but I am not sure what to do with them. Never worked with codec's before. Maybe I need a beginners guide to working with them. Looked in the list of programs and I don't see anything listed there. Where are they located?

Thx for the reply.

THIS LITTLE GUY (http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/details.aspx?FamilyID=de1491ac-0ab6-4990-943d-627e6ade9fcb&displaylang=en) is very handy for checking which decoders you have installed and what Windows is using....

I have not had to change a loader yet, except for one where the tray was broken.

So you're using the origional FUSS loader with no problems...after the ps cap mod?

I just ordered the D1 from UBID so it's on the way now no turning back. Does anyone know where I can get the lastest firmware with instuctions on how to load it in case my D1 has an old firmware.

Ok, I've been reading for pages now with you Bravo and Moso player guys and you are starting to all look suspiciously like Closet HTPC people!

If you would look objectively at what you're doing....wouldn't it be more fun to just build a HTPC where you can join us in obsessing over every micro of manipulation of every pixel until the end of time? Trust me, if you're taking the time to mod your log on screens...you NEED a HTPC hooked to your projector.

It's inevitable really...give in...join us now. ;)

^

Tweaking - "I wish I knew how to quit you" :p

Kras

Hope you come across this question - seems you pop in and out a little less these days I guess since bigger and better things are coming to some of the lucky ones!

I searched the old thread ad nauseum to find which test patterns to use to decipher chroma detail. I read that with the Faroudja TrueLife adjustments, you try to squeek out some chroma detail while calibrating.

And with Chewbacco, you added no excess luma detail in ffdshow (which I assume means the default for Lanczos 2 and not add any luma sharpen) and a "little chroma detail".

I own both Avia and DVE, so any reference to any test pattern would be great. I have no luma detail and chroma sharpen set to .4, which I guessed would be "a little."

Good to still see that you drop in from time to time.

AVIA has the chroma delay pattern you can use OK - you are looking for ringing at the edges of color. I used special AVIA PRO chroma resolution patterns - little harder to see this in chroma delay pattern.

Ok, I've been reading for pages now with you Bravo and Moso player guys and you are starting to all look suspiciously like Closet HTPC people!

If you would look objectively at what you're doing....wouldn't it be more fun to just build a HTPC where you can join us in obsessing over every micro of manipulation of every pixel until the end of time? Trust me, if you're taking the time to mod your log on screens...you NEED a HTPC hooked to your projector.

It's inevitable really...give in...join us now. ;)

Dude, that's totally me! I just know with my schedule and 4 beautiful kids that I *will never* get around to building and tweaking a HTPC, so I got the Bravo instead! Looks beautiful to me. . .

Wes

I too would like to know if the D1 needs a firmware update. If it does, which version should I be using and where do I find it?

Also, I've heard conflicting reports on the D1's ability to pixel map 'out of the box'. I've seen those who claim the D1 needs something done to it, unlike the D2 which does pixel map right out of the box.

Can anybody chime in who knows?

Also, I need a wall mount for the IN72. I'm considering the Premier PBL-UMS and just heard about the Chief RPA-U (somebody on the forum here just mentioned it).

Do these mounts attach directly to the projector or is there a plate inbetween? If there is a plate, does it come with the projector or the mount?

Thanks all,
George -bub

So you're using the origional FUSS loader with no problems...after the ps cap mod?Yes.

I personally have a D1 with the Fuss and a D2 with the EPO and they both work just fine. None of the dozens I have modded have ever exhibited any problems with either "loader".

Does anyone know where I can get the lastest firmware with instuctions on how to load it in case my D1 has an old firmware.I too would like to know if the D1 needs a firmware update. If it does, which version should I be using and where do I find it? ... I've heard conflicting reports on the D1's ability to pixel map 'out of the box'. I've seen those who claim the D1 needs something done to it, unlike the D2 which does pixel map right out of the box.Both the D1 and the D2 do 1:1 pixel-mapping to 852x480@60Hz directly from the setup menu. The other standard menu options are 480p, 720p and 1080i.

To set additional, custom output resolutions and/or custom refresh rates, both players must have the latest version of the firmware. To change the "region" of the player or to make it "region-free" requires the latest firmware. To enable upscaling over the component outputs requires the latest firmware.

You can quickly determine whether or not your unit has the lastest firmware by using the remote control and keying "RIGHT-DOWN-LEFT-UP-ENTER-1"; if the 'secret region-setting menu' appears, you are OK. If not, you need to upgrade your firmware.

The D2 firmware can be downloaded from the Vizio site. I can email the D1 firmware to you if you PM me your email address. The instructions for flashing the firmware and the codes to access the 'secret menus' is included.

It must be my failing memory but I could have sworn that I have posted this exact same information dozens of times in the last few weeks.

Yes.

I personally have a D1 with the Fuss and a D2 with the EPO and they both work just fine. None of the dozens I have modded have ever exhibited any problems with either "loader".

Cool! Kind of had an interesting evening. Had to make a pitstop at our local Wal-Fart this evening and while I was in the electronics section I noticed they had some Lite-On cd-rw/dvd-rom drives for $40 bucks so I grabbed one thinking maybe I could use it in the BRAVO if need be. Not even sure if it would work?

So, I get the sucker home, open up my desktop (which by the way has 2 drives ones a cd-rw and the other is a dvd-rom) to initialize the new drive and set the region, but low and behold the dvd-rom drive that's in there is one of the drives that's recommended for the swap! A Lite-On ??-HD166. So, I simply pulled it out put in the new drive and it's good to go.

Now the desktop has a cd-rw drive and a new cd-rw/dvd-rom drive, and I have "THE" replacement loader for the D1 if it comes to that!!! :D

Got my caps yesterday.

I use the SPDIF output from the Bravo to my Yamaha 5.1 AV receiver and have no complaints about the audio quality at all.


Anything else we can mod for improved pic or digital output sound? Maybe some damping on the sheet metal and disk drive? Other power suply caps? I've got a samsung 841 that needs mods too.

While i'm at it , I think I'll mod the 4805: iris, paint the interior black for better contrast, fan mod, 1.21 gigawatt bulb and Nd50 filter, and start the official hot rodded 4805+D1 thread. OK maybe too much :) Improved sound would be cool though. Maybe the fan and paint...

A word of warning for anyone thinking of swapping the 80mm cooling fan. I don't know about the Panaflo fan mentioned earlier, but I have tried a Sanyo Denki 80x80x15, and a Pabst 80x80x25, and neither was producing enough CFM to cool the lamp properly. Perhaps the Panaflo produces more CFM, but its obvious this projector is very picky about how much air it gets for cooling.

A word of warning for anyone thinking of swapping the 80mm cooling fan. I don't know about the Panaflo fan mentioned earlier, but I have tried a Sanyo Denki 80x80x15, and a Pabst 80x80x25, and neither was producing enough CFM to cool the lamp properly. Perhaps the Panaflo produces more CFM, but its obvious this projector is very picky about how much air it gets for cooling.

Did it cut off with the fans you tried? i.e. how were you able to determine that not enough cooling was being done? Thanks.

BTW - Although unlikely, I wonder if Bob W. could chime in on this mod to help determine a comparable quieter fan.

Did it cut off with the fans you tried? i.e. how were you able to determine that not enough cooling was being done? Thanks.

BTW - Although unlikely, I wonder if Bob W. could chime in on this mod to help determine a comparable quieter fan.

Yes, it shut itself down after about 10 minutes with either fan. The ceiling mount on the bottom of the unit got hot enough I could barely touch it.

Post #1477

I'm gonna go off on a tangent here...

I just pulled apart my 4805 because the fan noise was driving me nuts. I have the entire unit disassembled, and it only took about 15 minutes.

There are two fans, one cooling the lamp, the other cooling the color wheel.

Lamp fan:
Nidec Beta SL 80mm x 80mm x 20mm fan
model: DO8G-12TS4 01
possible product sheet link: http://www.nidec.co.jp/english/product/fm/pdf/p37.pdf
According to this site (http://www.pcpowerandcooling.com/pr...eviews/pcstats/) the fan can push 44CFM @ 34 dB. The product sheet converts to about 31 CFM @ 31 dB. Plugging the fan into a molex at 12V reveals that this thing moves a ton of air for it's size, but has a very annoying whine at ANY speed, and it's definitely not air noise, it's motor noise. Finding a quieter fan that moves a similar amount of air shouldn't be too difficult

Color Wheel Fan:
NMB 60mm x 60mm x 15mm fan
Model: MMEZL 12NM002
This fan has the same whine as the Nidec, but it is much quieter. It also moves quite a bit of air, and a larger version of this fan would move more air with MUCH less noise than the Nidec. Maybe that's why Dell uses NMB fans for their single-case-fan design...

Anyways, I also took a ton of pics of the 4805 components, including the entire lens/color wheel unit out of the case. The entire thing is constructed suprisingly well - there were about 30 screws total.

[EDITED AFTER REASSEMBLY]

It's back together and working fine, and the fan is just as loud as it was before, but the fan isn't even running at full speed when the projector is up. I might try to measure the voltage that the fan is getting at various noise levels, see if it ever DOES ramp up to full speed...in any case, this was a fun way to spend an hour and I learned a few things. I didn't attach the pics - I'm too lazy to resize everything so that the forum will take them as uploads. If you really want them PM me and maybe I'll throw them up on my site or something.

Those sizes and cfm ratings should be easy to find in computer enthusiaste stores, and you should also be able to find them with better bearings and lower dB ratings.

Here's a good start for people in ON, Canada:
http://www.bigfootcomputers.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=Bigfoot&Category_Code=100.2
http://www.bigfootcomputers.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=Bigfoot&Category_Code=100.11

Posted this in the HTPC group and had no replys. It has been days now so I thought maybe someone here might have some thoughts on my video problem. Had to watch a DVD using the old Sony DVD player. You can really see the difference in view S-video with the DVD player and a HTPC using DVI (at least if the HTPC is working :( )


No DVD playback after HD Trailers

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Download a bunch of MS HD trailers and played them with MP10. Worked ok and looked great but after I went to play a DVD and nothing happens. I am setup with theaterTek and it just hangs. MC10 does the same.

I think it is something with the codecs? I am new to this and not sure what to try next? Any thoughts?

I also tried PowerDVD and they all act the same way. No video and It seems to hang the computer somewhat.

Thx

You might try the Microsoft XP codec checker to ensure that the prefered codec is being used. IIRC TheaterTek uses the NVidia codec. The utility can be found here:
http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/details.aspx?familyid=de1491ac-0ab6-4990-943d-627e6ade9fcb&displaylang=en

Got my Tracking number from Newegg and my D1 is on it's way!!! Should be here tomorrow. Cavu I got the e-mail with the firmware and instructions. My CD is ready for my new arrival ( If Needed ). I will go grab a Cap tonight at RS. Thanks again to all you D1 Owners for the great discussion... You sold Me!!!

...I will go grab a Cap tonight at RS.

Call the store's before you head out!!! Part # 272-1032. I have 2 RS's half a mile apart near me, and neither one had them in stock!!! :mad: I had to order mine.

Tweaking - "I wish I knew how to quit you"

Now that right 'thar is funny...I don't 'kare who you are. :p

My D1 arrived from Newegg about a week ago with the latest firmware and the "secret" menu intact.

Thanks cavu for your insight and enthusiasm about the D1. So far so good, I'll replace the flaky capacitor sometime down the road.

Call the store's before you head out!!! Part # 272-1032. I have 2 RS's half a mile apart near me, and neither one had them in stock!!! :mad: I had to order mine.


Thanks for the part number I actually have one of the few RS's that still have parts for sale in the store (Unlike those fluffy RS Mall stores). I have the cap in hand ready for tomorrow. :D

D1 is up and running. Very happy with quaility. Will get the new cap this weekend.

D1 is up and running. Very happy with quaility. Will get the new cap this weekend.

Where did you buy it and have you checked the firmware. Read back a few pages on how to check with the remote. I'm getting one from Ubid and if someone else buys there and has the latest firmware then it's a sure bet I will too.

D1 is up and running. Very happy with quaility. Will get the new cap this weekend.

Cool!!! Mine is due for delivery tomorrow, possibly today according to the FedEx tracking site! The wait is killing me. I've got my soldring iron ready, some desoldering braid, & the replacement cap. I'm READY...now I just need the damn unit to get here!!!

Are you calibrated and using "THE" custom resolution & refresh rate yet?

bougt the player from newegg.com. I did not check the firmware before flashing. I simply took it out of the box and started the flashing process.

so, all you guys receiving your D1s from the current "big 3" distributors, what is the verdict? Does it give the 1:1 pixel mapping like the original set and is the PQ quality the same. I guess the only way to know for sure is if you had an older D1 to compare. My concern is if any components have changed in the new set that would affect the PQ even with the 1:1 mapping, although this is looking unlikely. Keep the feedback coming. Thank you.

Im very happy with the PQ from my D1. I didnt mess around with it too much, but the few DVDs I tried (after changing mode to 16:9) looked VERY good. The sharpness is better than my previous player (which was the cheapest I could buy from best buy) . I believe it is pixel mapping , but I dont know how to tell for sure. Regardless, Im very pleased

Im very happy with the PQ from my D1. I didnt mess around with it too much, but the few DVDs I tried (after changing mode to 16:9) looked VERY good. The sharpness is better than my previous player (which was the cheapest I could buy from best buy) . I believe it is pixel mapping , but I dont know how to tell for sure. Regardless, Im very pleased

You know it's pixel mapped when it syncs to the player and says "854x480@48hz" at the bottom of the screen. You can also go into the About menu and it should show that also. Be sure to set the 4805 to native mode.

My UBID Bravo D1 has been delivered...eveything looks brand new...box in excellent condition not a retape...the player or remote has no signs of dust, scatches, finger prints looks like it is all brand new. Took the case off same thing its perfectly like new...I will post some pictures later.

Well I just could not wait any longer, so I finally purchased my very first PJ. After debating of whether to wait a bit longer and save a little more for a IN72 or even a IN74EX, the Home Theater bug got the best of me. Along with a few incentives; Infocus rebate, price drop, BB 2 year no interest + reward points, it was a done deal.

I managed to get it out the box and fire it up late in the evening and test it out. Must say I’m very impressed, though a bit overwhelmed with all the possibilities. Hopefully I can get some help with something that’s been bugging me though.

I connected my Samsung LTS-3510 DVD player, set it up for 720p output via Component feed to 4805. At first it accepts the signal with 720p confirmation at bottom of image, but seconds later it just downgrades to 480p. I tried it with 1080i output feed only to see the same outcome, it always comes back to 480p on DVD movies. Yet, when I switched over to DTV OTA-HD reception on the Samsung, 720p and 1080i showed just fine without it downgrading to 480p like it does with DVD movies.

To further evaluate this, I connected my Xbox 360 via Component feed to the 4805. At the 360’s menu I can either choose 720p or 1080i and it will stay locked to whichever setting I choose. But if I toss a movie in there, it jumps back to 480p. If I remember correctly, the Xbox 360 will only output 480p with DVD movies, so that might solve my issue with the 360 jumping back to 480p from 720p/1080i. I unfortunately did not get a chance to boot up a game to see if the 4805 further changed resolution from 720p/1080i to 480p.

Is this all due to the 4805 being just a 480p capable projector? Am I limited to just 480p DVD moving watching via Component input (source 1)? I’m guessing if I understood the manual right, I can only achieve virtual 720p or 1080i for DVD moving watching via DVI/M1 port + HDCP compliant?

Any help is greatly appreciated, I’m new to the projection world so I apologize for being a noobcake (newbie).

thank you

You know it's pixel mapped when it syncs to the player and says "854x480@48hz" at the bottom of the screen.
on the Bravo/Momitsu/HTPC
if you are trying for FILM it would be 854x480@47hz
since the correct vertical refresh for FILM is 47.952 (SP4805 rounds down)
now u eliminate 3:2 pull-down and are mapping 1:1

Custom DVI settings for FILM with NTSC are:

HorizFreq----23688-----VertFreq------4795
VideoWith-----0854-----VideoHeight---0480
HSyncTotal----1110-----PreHSync------0044
HSyncActive---0128-----PostHSync-----0084
VSyncTotal----0494-----PreVSync------0001
VSyncActive---0003-----PostVSync-----0010
HSyncPol------0000-----VSyncPol------0000

then for VIDEO use default 852x480x60hz directly from D1 Setup menu
VIDEO would be most Concerts/TV programs

Well I just could not wait any longer, so I finally purchased my very first PJ. After debating of whether to wait a bit longer and save a little more for a IN72 or even a IN74EX, the Home Theater bug got the best of me. Along with a few incentives; Infocus rebate, price drop, BB 2 year no interest + reward points, it was a done deal.

I managed to get it out the box and fire it up late in the evening and test it out. Must say I’m very impressed, though a bit overwhelmed with all the possibilities. Hopefully I can get some help with something that’s been bugging me though.

I connected my Samsung LTS-3510 DVD player, set it up for 720p output via Component feed to 4805. At first it accepts the signal with 720p confirmation at bottom of image, but seconds later it just downgrades to 420p. I tried it with 1080i output feed only to see the same outcome, it always comes back to 420p on DVD movies. Yet, when I switched over to DTV OTA-HD reception on the Samsung, 720p and 1080i showed just fine without it downgrading to 420p like it does with DVD movies.

To further evaluate this, I connected my Xbox 360 via Component feed to the 4805. At the 360’s menu I can either choose 720p or 1080i and it will stay locked to whichever setting I choose. But if I toss a movie in there, it jumps back to 420p. If I remember correctly, the Xbox 360 will only output 420p with DVD movies, so that might solve my issue with the 360 jumping back to 420p from 720p/1080i. I unfortunately did not get a chance to boot up a game to see if the 4805 further changed resolution from 720p/1080i to 420p.

Is this all due to the 4805 being just a 420p capable projector? Am I limited to just 420p DVD moving watching via Component input (source 1)? I’m guessing if I understood the manual right, I can only achieve virtual 720p or 1080i for DVD moving watching via DVI/M1 port + HDCP compliant?

Any help is greatly appreciated, I’m new to the projection world so I apologize for being a noobcake (newbie).

thank you

I think you mean 480p. :)

Does your samsung dvd player have hdmi or dvi output? Most dvd players will not upconvert protected dvd movies over component at 720p or 1080i. I'm guessing while navigating menus and etc it will be in 720p but as soon as the movie starts it will downgrade it to 480p. I'm guessing your dvd player will only upconvert dvd to 720p/1080i over hdmi/dvi.

There isn't much of an advantage of sending an upconverted dvd to the 4805 as it will scale it down to 854x480 anyway. The Faroudja processor in the 4805 is probably better than the chip used by your samsung, you should try feeding 480i from the samsung and be sure to calibrate brightness/contrast/color with a calibration dvd like DVE, Avia, or THX optomizer from THX dvds.

My UBID Bravo D1 has been delivered...eveything looks brand new...box in excellent condition not a retape...the player or remote has no signs of dust, scatches, finger prints looks like it is all brand new. Took the case off same thing its perfectly like new...I will post some pictures later.My Luck...Looks like I got a BAD one. Hooked up to my 4805 and it is not working...I can turn it on with the power button, but not with the remote...I can open the disc loader only with the player open/close button not with the remote...the front panel display does not light up at all...only the little blue light on the large button on the right side...I put in a disc and it does not play. Any help would be appreciated. Looks like I need to contact V,INC or UBID. :confused:

on the Bravo/Momitsu/HTPC
if you are trying for FILM it would be 854x480@47hz
since the correct vertical refresh for FILM is 47.952 (SP4805 rounds down)
now u eliminate 3:2 pull-down and are mapping 1:1

Custom DVI settings for FILM with NTSC are:

HorizFreq----23688-----VertFreq------4795
VideoWith-----0854-----VideoHeight---0480
HSyncTotal----1110-----PreHSync------0044
HSyncActive---0128-----PostHSync-----0084
VSyncTotal----0494-----PreVSync------0001
VSyncActive---0003-----PostVSync-----0010
HSyncPol------0000-----VSyncPol------0000

then for VIDEO use default 852x480x60hz directly from D1 Setup menu
VIDEO would be most Concerts/TV programs

Cavu has also posted numbers for 854x480 @72hz, which also eliminates 3:2 pulldown, and the color wheel runs faster than 48hz, so fewer rainbows for those that see them. I am running my D1 at 72hz and it works great. . .

Wes

I think you mean 480p. :)

Does your samsung dvd player have hdmi or dvi output? Most dvd players will not upconvert protected dvd movies over component at 720p or 1080i. I'm guessing while navigating menus and etc it will be in 720p but as soon as the movie starts it will downgrade it to 480p. I'm guessing your dvd player will only upconvert dvd to 720p/1080i over hdmi/dvi.

JaPhule is right, there are only a handful of dvd players that will upconvert over component (best known is the Zenith 318 because of it's high quality image at 1080i only over componendt), almost all the others will upconvert over HDMI/DVI, but not component, since component doesn't carry any copy protection in the signal.

He's also right that sending an upconverted image (720p or 1080i) shouldn't give any real benifit to the 4805 over 480p if the player is doing everything right at all output resolutions. In fact, unless you have a really good 480p player (Denon, OPPO, et) you're probably better off sending 480i and letting the 4805 do its stuff via Faroudja. . .

Wes

My Luck...Looks like I got a BAD one. Hooked up to my 4805 and it is not working...I can turn it on with the power button, but not with the remote...I can open the disc loader only with the player open/close button not with the remote...the front panel display does not light up at all...only the little blue light on the large button on the right side...I put in a disc and it does not play. Any help would be appreciated. Looks like I need to contact V,INC or UBID. :confused:

Did you check the batteries in the remote? Sounds like your remote isn't working. Will it load a dvd at all?

If not, pop it open and look for Cavu's capacitor and see if it's already toasted.

Sorry it's not working, let's see if we can get you pointed in the right direction.

Wes

ps You're not going to have much luck with Vinc, I don't think, you will have to deal with UBID if it has to go back. Maybe Cavu will check in with some other suggestions for you. . .

Did you check the batteries in the remote? Sounds like your remote isn't working. Will it load a dvd at all?

If not, pop it open and look for Cavu's capacitor and see if it's already toasted.

Sorry it's not working, let's see if we can get you pointed in the right direction.

Wes

ps You're not going to have much luck with Vinc, I don't think, you will have to deal with UBID if it has to go back. Maybe Cavu will check in with some other suggestions for you. . .It loads and that's about it...but shouldn't the front display light up also...I will try different batteries. This is so annoying I was so excited and now this crap...I will also try it on my regular TV. Thanks

The capacitor looks fine...here's a pic...don't know if this will help.


bravo d1 014.jpg

hmmm......I am not the expert here, but I thought the cap had 16v printed on it unless it is on the other side.

BTW - I hope it is just something simple to get it working. I know newegg stated you can get a replacment, but not sure what UBID's policy will be since it is an auction style business.

HANG IN THERE jwv651, Something is up with that remote, at worse lets just hope it's the known issue with the Capacitor. Mine comes from Ubid on Monday. Your in the right place for help.

Your readout may not show anything untill your playing a DVD, put in a CD also. And get you some 10 year lithuim batteries for that remote.

just quick questions for people who have this set up.

1. do you send 480i or 480P or 720P or 1080i?

2. what connection you use: component (apply only for 480i/P) or DVI>M1 or DVI>HDMI>M1? is there any preference which 1 is better HDMI or DVI cable for longer route specially for my set up i need 35ft long cable.

Oppo office is located on my way to home so i might drop by today if they will allow in-store pick up.

I think you mean 480p. :)

Does your samsung dvd player have hdmi or dvi output? Most dvd players will not upconvert protected dvd movies over component at 720p or 1080i. I'm guessing while navigating menus and etc it will be in 720p but as soon as the movie starts it will downgrade it to 480p. I'm guessing your dvd player will only upconvert dvd to 720p/1080i over hdmi/dvi.

There isn't much of an advantage of sending an upconverted dvd to the 4805 as it will scale it down to 854x480 anyway. The Faroudja processor in the 4805 is probably better than the chip used by your samsung, you should try feeding 480i from the samsung and be sure to calibrate brightness/contrast/color with a calibration dvd like DVE, Avia, or THX optomizer from THX dvds.

Thank you for the correction, 480p is what I meant. (fixed)

The Samsung does have DVI (HDCP compliant) output, I just need to pick up the DVI cable ASAP. I just wanted to make sure it's not a defect/bug on the 4805's side. I did briefly feed the 4805 a 480i signal and noticed a very nice eye catching image, the Faroudja processor does seem to be the way to go.

I do have a P4 3.2Ghz with 1 gig of RAM laying around not being used. I think that might make a decent HTPC, just need to upgrade the video card.

First, I just need to pick a nice screen.

Blah, all these posibilities so little time!

Thank you so much!

BTW - Excellent guide you have there, tons of information to disect.

wes nance said-- Cavu has also posted numbers for 854x480 @72hz, which also eliminates 3:2 pulldown, and the color wheel runs faster than 48hz, so fewer rainbows for those that see them. I am running my D1 at 72hz and it works great.
yes the Color Wheel runs faster---but the BIT depth is diminished (hence the color pallet is smaller)

Bob Williams said-- It should sync to 48Hz with no problem. 72 Hz sources will be frame rate converted to 60 Hz, so I do not recommend 72 Hz sources be used. This is pretty typical of DLP products with color wheels due to the allowable motor speeds. We frame lock to all sources from 48 to 62 Hz and frame rate convert everything else.

Just got my unit from UBID. Didn't waste one minute. The minute I got her, I cracked it open and swapped out the cap, 20 minute job! Just fired it up, and installed the latest firmware. Everything went off without a snag. Haven't had a chance to setup the custom resolution yet.

Oh, in the region setting screen I've got it set to 1, don't care about any other region as of yet, but do I turn off the macrovision???

Thanks. More later.

Great news DeerHunter thinks for reporting in, does you readout say anything when you do not have a disk in it. Lets help jwv651 he's haveing a problem with the brand new one he got today.

I have asked jwv651 to send me his phone number. I will call him and walk through some trouble-shooting.

BTW: If anyone has been trying to PM me today, my PM mailbox filled and I got about 50 notices of PM attempts. I have archived the PMs and emptied the box so please try again.

ALSO: For any to whom this may matter: I am going to be out of the country for about a month, starting 10 April. If anyone needs help, instructions, firmware, etc., please let me know NOW or risk waiting.

I will be spending three weeks in Wellington New Zealand with my sister and her husband. I will be hand delivering and installing an InFocus SP4805 and Bravo D1 plaver. ;)

They are Canadians who are working with Weta on some new movie projects. Weta are the people who brought us LOTR and King Kong, etc. Mark, my brother in law, is in charge of "motion capture" animation.

On the latest project, called "Jane & the Dragon", all of the animation is done using motion capture except "the dragon". Mark is doing "the dragon" with traditional animation techniques. Should be a really neat visit "behind the curtain"!

Heres a picture of Mark in his office ;)
http://www.flying-colors.org/WETA4.jpg

I'll be looking for some secret tidbits or previews to bring back to the "4805 family".

do I turn off the macrovision?It won't make much difference to you in your situation, but turning it off will allow upconverting over component.

Great news DeerHunter thinks for reporting in, does you readout say anything when you do not have a disk in it. Lets help jwv651 he's haveing a problem with the brand new one he got today.

Yes. with power on and no disc, the display reads....NTSC in tiny letters in the upper left corner & NO CD in bold on the main part of the display.

[QUOTE=cavu]It won't make much difference to you in your situation, but turning it off will allow upconverting over component.[/QUOTE}]

Thanks buddy! I'll be hooking her up the 4805 tonight!!! :D

I want to Thank Cavu for offering his help through the phone...problem is I have no voice due to a mistake in surgery on my neck/throat. My luck can't get any worst. I have replaced the batteries and it still does not work...I sent a complaint to UBID that this unit is DOA...guess I will have to see what happens next...if any. I re hooked up my Oppo so it's not like I haven't anything to use...I was so excited about the Bravo and the 4805 PQ.

cavu. My friend is down there in Wellington (actually leaving today to Napier) captaining a cricket team. Please let me know if you would like me to get the website up for you with the firmware etc so that others can have access to all the D1 info while you are in NZ.

CAVU can he use a direct connection where his capacitors is for a few seconds to see it thats it before he ships it back or would a wire there fry it instantly, I'm only talking for like 5 seconds or so. It may just need the swap out, but he might do the swap out and find out he needs to send it back in anyway. This is making me think I should do the swap out before I ever turn it on for the first time. I was going to wait a few weeks before I did it as I'm spending left and right these days. I thought maybe a dirrect wire might light up the dispaly and tell him thats the problem. Just siting here thinking or not thinking as some would call it.

I doubt that the cap could have been the culprit with hardly any use yet.

My experience with fan replacement so far:

-I don't think the 60mm fan even turns on in low power mode (the only mode I watch in) and from my subjective tests on its noise level, it's pretty darn good and it would probably be difficult to find a fan of similar specs that produces noticeably lower noise.

-The original Nidec fan is definitely not run at 12V in low power mode, I would estimate that the projector is sending around 7V to the fan based on subjective listening.

-I've tried replacing the Nidec 80mm fan with 2 different fans so far:

1.) The same one that Onion used to do his fan replacement (Panaflo FBA08A12U 46.9CFM 38.2dBA)

2.) Panaflo FBA08A12H1B 39.6CFM 32.0dBA


-I've had no projector overheating or shutdowns with either fan

-Both fans produced a slight bearing noise, but the FBA08A12H1B was noticeably quieter, maybe just because it's not spinning as fast.

-I do have 2 other fans on order and will test them shortly. One is a Bi-Sonic sleeve bearing fan, that I believe is used by the Nexus corporation to make extremely quiet case fans for the quiet pc enthusiast market (BI-Sonic SP802512M 37CFM 30dBA). The other is an expensive ($25) Pabst fan (5912-8412N 41CFM 32dBA).

-So far, and subjectively, based on several days of listening to the projector with the Panaflo FBA08A12H1B, there is NOT a significant decrease in overall projector noise with fan replacement. In my opinion, this is due to the presence of color wheel-based noise which I know of no way to reduce. The new fan may be slightly quieter than the original, but not by much and the color-wheel whine makes such a difference mute. Onion's experience appears to have been different (inaudible from 1 meter??). Maybe he had a bad original fan, maybe the color-wheel noise on my projector is louder than his, it's hard to say as noise perception and sensitivity varies from person to person and I have no tools to objectively measure noise output, but this has been my personal experience so far. I have dabbled in the quiet pc enthusiast realm, so my sensitivity to noise is likely higher than most.

-I'll send a final update after testing the two fans on order, but as of today, I cannot recommend fan replacement to significantly reduce projector noise, unless you feel there's something wrong with the original fan. But, if you want to be able to learn how to take your projector apart and put it back together in under 15 minutes, by all means go for it :D

I doubt that the cap could have been the culprit with hardly any use yet.

Yea your probably right, but those caps are pieces of crap so they could crap out on fire up or very quickly. It just pisses me off just about as much as this happening to me, your well informed, waiting to get something and it turns into a hassle. I didn't think the D1 had any issues other than the capacitor. I didn't think the D1 was a hit and miss machine. But we do know the cap causes all types of craziness.. ie the loader problems.

jwv651 this is just a shot in the dark but did you push the power button on the D1 itself first?
A bright blue light would light up on the right hand side of the unit , then push power buttom on the remote.
I know when I first hooked mine up I just hit the power button on the remote and nothing happened then it dawned on me that I might have to hit the power on the unit.
Just a silly mistake I made.
Hope thats the case with yours.

yes the Color Wheel runs faster---but the BIT depth is diminished (hence the color pallet is smaller)

OK, that went over my head. I don't remember that Bob Williams quote, so I don't know the context.

What is frame lock? I remember the color wheel speed discussion, 48hz was the slowest, then 72hz, then 60hz was the fastest.

I'm happy to go back to 48hz with the Bravo, I just want to try to get my head around why- could you explain it to me?

Thanks!

Wes

Yea your probably right, but those caps are pieces of crap so they could crap out on fire up or very quickly. It just pisses me off just about as much as this happening to me, your well informed, waiting to get something and it turns into a hassle I didn't think the D1 had any issues other than the capacitor. I didn't think the D1 was a hit and miss machine. But we do know the cap causes all types of craziness.. ie the loader problems.I am going to carefully replace the cap and see what happens...keeping my fingers crossed this is the problem. ;)

can he use a direct connection where his capacitors is for a few secondsNO!!!!

Doing such a thing will certainly pop the fuse (at an absolute minimum) but more likely destroy the power supply. If it doesn't start a fire, you'd be lucky.

If you don't know what you are doing, restrict yourself to the exact letter of the instructions supplied to change the capacitor. If you can't approach that process with confidence, get someone else, who is qualified, to do it for you.

But you have suddenly awakened a fear in my heart: I have assumed to date that people have the sense to unplug the D1 from the AC plug (household power mains) before opening it, etc. But now I am not sure.

Pulling a "Bob Williams", I am going to fall back on some boilerplate and state that:WARNING!

"No one but qualified service personnel should open the case of the Bravo D1.
There are no user serviceable parts inside.
Failure to follow this advice could result in damage, fire and/or death ! "

I doubt that the cap could have been the culprit with hardly any use yet.Yes it can. The symptoms he describes are consistent with near complete failure of the capacitor - which will happen to anyone who waits long enough.

-I'll send a final update after testing the two fans on order, but as of today, I cannot recommend fan replacement to significantly reduce projector noise, unless you feel there's something wrong with the original fan. But, if you want to be able to learn how to take your projector apart and put it back together in under 15 minutes, by all means go for it :D

Thank you! I think this is really helpful. Please keep us posted.

Yes it can. The symptoms he describes are consistent with near complete failure of the capacitor - which will happen to anyone who waits that long.

So, I think one should plan on immediately replacing the cap. Well, when I do order my D1, I'll be sure to order the cap at the same time if not before :)

I am going to carefully replace the cap and see what happens...keeping my fingers crossed this is the problem. ;)

Good Luck. Take a few/lots pictures of the board with the old cap OUT, front and back side and the old cap off the board. Again, Good Luck.


PS:CAVU I deleted that post as it like yours fears suggest it just puts the wrong image in readers heads.

Got my d1 from ubid. Works flawlessly so far. Had no problem getting into custom menu. Picture looks fantastic. I was using a liteon lvd-2001 running 480i component and this is so much better! I'm not replacing anything until it starts acting up. The only thing I screwed up was I had the gains and offsets numbers swapped and it looked terrible, but I figured it out.

^ Good news to hear, I bet mine has the latest firmware installed. Can't wait till Monday

IIII'mmmm Baaaaaaack.

Good news. As previously mentioned, got my ubid D1 today. The second it arrived I opened her up and swapped out the cap. I then fired her up and loaded the latest firmware without a hitch. I was going to wait til tonight to hook it up to the 4805, but I couldn't wait. Went into the custom menu, plugged in all the magic numbers and VOILA!!! I'm 1:1 pixel mapped at 854x480 @ 47hz. AWESOME!!! I immediately threw in STAR WARS for a quick gander and it looked incredible!!! More to come after some more viewing. :D :D :D

You're not going to have much luck with Vinc, I don't think, you will have to deal with UBID if it has to go back.Well "push" will become "shove" really quick if it has to go back or get exchanged with UBid, etc.

Vizio confirms again today that they will not be honouring any warranties for the units sold by ubid, newegg, chiefvalue, etc. !!

In fact, those companies have all been contacted by Vizio and are now fully aware that the product is "counterfeit" and the product is not from Vizio. But the vendors have refused to cooperate and supply the name of the vendor(s) to Vizio. So the whole thing is now in the hands of lawyers.

Those of you who have purchased these units might be encouraged to call your vendor and ask them, specifically, who is covering the warranty on these boxes. Write it all down: the time and date, the sales agent's name/number, the, etc.

Ask for their supervisor; ask the same questions and get their name/number.

In the end you may be entitled to damages or refunds.

I'm 1:1 pixel mapped at 854x480 @ 47hz. AWESOME!!! I immediately threw in STAR WARS for a quick gander and it looked incredible!!!You have set the Bob William's RGB Gain and Offsets. Right?

Well "push" will become "shove" really quick if it has to go back or get exchanged with UBid, etc.

Vizio confirms again today that they will not be honouring any warranties for the units sold by ubid, newegg, chiefvalue, etc. !!

In fact, those companies have all been contacted by Vizio and are now fully aware that the product is "counterfeit" and the product is not from Vizio. But the vendors have refused to cooperate and supply the name of the vendor(s) to Vizio. So the whole thing is now in the hands of lawyers.

Those of you who have purchased these units might be encouraged to call your vendor and ask them, specifically, who is covering the warranty on these boxes. Write it all down: the time and date, the sales agent's name/number, the, etc.

Ask for their supervisor; ask the same questions and get their name/number.

In the end you may be entitled to damages or refunds.First off I noticed a hairline crack on the front of my D1...I will not be fixing it...I feel UBID should honor a return.

My Bravo D1 was shipped by this company….I think their main office is in Schenzhen, China

KXD Technology, Inc.
5101 Commerce Drive
Baldwin Park
CA
91706
United States
(626) 851-2528
(626) 851-2579
info@kxddigitalus.com
www.kxddigitalus.com

Hey has anyone bought a refurb from PrestigePhoto? It's that or eBay for me now, and I'd prefer a factory-refurb. Thanks.

You have set the Bob William's RGB Gain and Offsets. Right?

Yup!!! ;) :D

OK, that went over my head. I don't remember that Bob Williams quote, so I don't know the context.

What is frame lock? I remember the color wheel speed discussion, 48hz was the slowest, then 72hz, then 60hz was the fastest.

I'm happy to go back to 48hz with the Bravo, I just want to try to get my head around why- could you explain it to me?

Thanks!

Wes

Yea I'm not sure that Bob Quote that Mouw posted came from either as I don't remember it in relation to the 4805. Here IS a direct quote from Bob in regards to refresh rates on the 4805 :

Well, as with all features there are some tradeoffs. To preserve colorwheel life, for refresh rates of 62 Hz and higher the color wheel speed drops to 3x, so for instance at 72 Hz the color wheel is spinning at 3x or 6480 rpm. This is in between the speeds for 48 and 60 Hz. At 60 Hz it is spinning at 4x or 7200 rpm and at 48 Hz it spins at 4x or 5760 rpm.

Since the rainbow effect is related to total color refresh rate which is proportional to the color wheel rpm, then you should have the most at 48 Hz, less at 72 Hz, and the least at 60 Hz.

I recommend you use the mode that you like the best.


That does not address the frame lock though so I would like to know more about that deal.....

KXD Technology, Inc. ... (626) 851-2528I chatted with them. They claim to the the OEM that originally built the units for Vizio and they are blowing off remaining, excess inventory (as we surmised).

While they obviously have legal issues to work out with Vizio over the unauthorized use of Vizio's brand, etc., they appear to be ready to stand behind the units and provide warranty service.

I was impressed with their CSR "Luis" and suggest that y'all should not hestitate to deal with them.

IMHO.

I chatted with them. They claim to the the OEM that originally built the units for Vizio and they are blowing off remaining, excess inventory (as we surmised).

While they obviously have legal issues to work out with Vizio over the unauthorized use of Vizio's brand, etc., they appear to be ready to stand behind the units and provide warranty service.

I was impressed with their CSR "Luis" and suggest that y'all should not hestitate to deal with them.

IMHO.


I'm not sure why they would not try to fix a simple cheap part on these excess than to risk dealing with returns. I am sure they know about this issue by now. Also, years after production should have stopped, these online vendor, the "big 3" appears to have an endless supply. Maybe some statute or agreement has expired. Something does not add up.

Yea I'm not sure that Bob Quote that Mouw posted came from either as I don't remember it in relation to the 4805. Here IS a direct quote from Bob in regards to refresh rates on the 4805 :



That does not address the frame lock though so I would like to know more about that deal.....

Bobs quote was for the SP72xx series which cannot frame lock the color wheel on 72Hz - the SP4805 can

Bobs quote was for the SP72xx series which cannot frame lock the color wheel on 72Hz - the SP4805 can

I always figured his remark was intended for the 4805, though not completely clear which PJ in his initial response further down the page and I found a post by Bob in response to a question posed by Luis (4805) in context to Bobs wheel speed post.

Luis asked:

So in theory I should be able to see more RBE at 72HZ than at 60 or 48? I dont feel thats the case but I always try not too see RBE so its not so much of a concern...so do you recommend 72HZ over the others or not?

To which Bob Williams replies:

Since the rainbow effect is related to total color refresh rate which is proportional to the color wheel rpm, then you should have the most at 48 Hz, less at 72 Hz, and the least at 60 Hz. I recommend you use the mode that you like the best.

Bobs reply to Luis appears consistent with the 72Hz wheel speed dropping 3X cited above. But then again except for longer bearing life what does it really matter, let's get back to more discussion directly related to the D1, mine should be here tomorrow.

Cavu! I tried calling and also sent a PM, but maybe it was while your box was full. Looking for an update on shipping. Most importantly I wanted to confirm that you got my message about the address change. Please PM me.

[QUOTE=cavu]

I will be spending three weeks in Wellington New Zealand with my sister and her husband. I will be hand delivering and installing an InFocus SP4805 and Bravo D1 plaver. ;)

Useful to take 5 minutes to check the voltage on the PJ and player that you are bringing along to NZ - eg. whether there is a voltage selector or an "autovolt" mechanism. The voltage in NZ is 230-240 Volts - you do not want to end up with a fried PJ and Bravo!

Bobs quote was for the SP72xx series which cannot frame lock the color wheel on 72Hz - the SP4805 can

Thanks for the clarification Kras.

Playing with 72hz at 854x480 tonight and it produces lots of jitters and flickers throughout the tests on the HQV test disk (god help me...another calibration disk....) and yet on DVE's demonstration sequence that I use for smooth playback comparison, I DO NOT see the jitters generated.

Is this a result of the HQV disk being video based and DVE being a mix?

There was a time when I felt, and I know Luis does, that 72hz produced a much sharper image but with this combination of new Nvidia drivers and 7800 cards I'm not seeing any significant improvements.

By the way ATI is back to king of Video playback heap at this fleeting moment in time so I have to resend my blanket "go with Nvidia" recommendation for the time being....

BrianIAm

That is the downside of 48Hz/72Hz locks - it only works with film - video becomes an absolute mess! My wife made me turn it off as it ruins the extras and she thinks I am nutz about this 3:2 60Hz judder. Talk about your his-n-hers PowerStrip setups!

Will the D1 do 1:1 on a 576 DMD Chip if the D1 is playing a PAL DVD and you have the custom menu resolution set to 1024 x 576. I thought that although it can be made region free that it might scale that PAL to 480 and send it to the PJ. I'm sure it can be made to do 1:1 pal on a 576 DMD but I thought I'd better check here to be sure. It's probably just automatic if you've unlock the region. If I can't achieve 1:1 playing a PAL DVD via the D1 then I'm for sure not interested in the IN74EX and it's SP4805/IN72 depending on powerbuy price of the IN72.

I received my D1 from ubid today. It looks brand new and already has the latest firmware. I have it pixel mapped to the 4805 and it is working fine. I did not replace the cap yet but I have one ready.

I am sure they know about this issue by now.They don't.

We only determined the actual flaw in the last <I don't remember> months.

Vizio knows .... now ..... and repair the power supplies on machines sent to them.

But the OEM manufacturer certainly never learned what was going on and doesn't know now.

Will the D1 do 1:1 on a 576 DMD Chip if the D1 is playing a PAL DVD and you have the custom menu resolution set to 1024 x 576.Yes. But you will have to set a custom 576 output resolution - otherwise the Bravo converts the PAL to NTSC.

They don't.

We only determined the actual flaw in the last <I don't remember> months.

Vizio knows .... now ..... and repair the power supplies on machines sent to them.

But the OEM manufacturer certainly never learned what was going on and doesn't know now.

I guess that may be the case, but still hard to believe they were able to move a product with a known defect (at least by some of us) to three major online retailers who will have more heartache with returns than they may have catered for. Something still seems suspect since these D1s have popped up, especially at their price point given that DVD recorders and later AV products on ubid are going for $27.00 bucks. Oh well, at least it seems to be a legit D1 in the sense that it is capable of doing what was expected of it.

hard to believe they were able to move a product with a known defect (at least by some of us) to three major online retailers As I say, the Chinese OEM assembler was/is not aware of the problem let alone the solution. They know little about the product other than they want to clear it out.

Wes Nance was saying he liked 72hz because he thought he was getting less RBE

I said: yes the Color Wheel runs faster---but the BIT depth is diminished (hence the color pallet is smaller)
the Bob Williams quote (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6910740#post6910740) is in response to a question about the IN76 (PRESS RELEASE: New Infocus Lineup - 720p Dlp $2999 thread) and his syntax This is pretty typical of DLP products with color wheels due to the allowable motor speeds i interpreted to include the entire INxx series and maybe ALL single wheel DLPs

Answering another question about Higher Color Wheel speeds Bob Williams said: (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6939328#post6939328)
The lower the color wheel refresh, the higher the true bit depth and the less motion panning artifacts there are because the DLP device is on more of the time (fewer spokes to go through each frame).
Kras also indicated 48hz was better for FILM when he said: (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7067871#post7067871)
Lowering the bandwidth to the DMD will improve DLP artifacts of spatial/motion dithering. While Bob's post indicated 72Hz was in between 48Hz and 60Hz for colorwheel spin rate - he did not say which had the lower DMD refresh rate - but I would suspect 48Hz is your best.
anyway FWIW i prefer watching FILM @ 48hz

My D1 from ubid arrived yesterday. The packaging appeared to be new but the D1 itself had a small scuff mark on the top edge. So, out came my Sharpie and I took care of that.

Hooked it up to confirm that it was functional and found that it has the latest firmware. I then entered the 854 x 480 @ 48Hz settings and tried it out. WOW! Component is good, but pixel mapping is way better. Even my resident skeptic (wife) was impressed. So hopefully her mocking over the D1 purchase will be short. (She always ends up liking what I do, eventually.)

Next I went to replace the cap. Then came "What!? You purposefully bought a defective player?" After I explained that I had been in contact with my D1 spiritual guide Cavu living up in the "Great White North" I got a great eye rolling.

Well, the cap swap took about 20 minutes. The hardest part was disconnecting the ps cable from the decoder board. Someone went glue-happy.

It is back up and working.

Thanks to all who have provided tons of info on the whole setup and repair of the D1, especially Cavu!

Jeff

My experience with fan replacement so far:

-I don't think the 60mm fan even turns on in low power mode (the only mode I watch in) and from my subjective tests on its noise level, it's pretty darn good and it would probably be difficult to find a fan of similar specs that produces noticeably lower noise.

-The original Nidec fan is definitely not run at 12V in low power mode, I would estimate that the projector is sending around 7V to the fan based on subjective listening.

-I've tried replacing the Nidec 80mm fan with 2 different fans so far:

1.) The same one that Onion used to do his fan replacement (Panaflo FBA08A12U 46.9CFM 38.2dBA)

2.) Panaflo FBA08A12H1B 39.6CFM 32.0dBA


-I've had no projector overheating or shutdowns with either fan

-Both fans produced a slight bearing noise, but the FBA08A12H1B was noticeably quieter, maybe just because it's not spinning as fast.

-I do have 2 other fans on order and will test them shortly. One is a Bi-Sonic sleeve bearing fan, that I believe is used by the Nexus corporation to make extremely quiet case fans for the quiet pc enthusiast market (BI-Sonic SP802512M 37CFM 30dBA). The other is an expensive ($25) Pabst fan (5912-8412N 41CFM 32dBA).

-So far, and subjectively, based on several days of listening to the projector with the Panaflo FBA08A12H1B, there is NOT a significant decrease in overall projector noise with fan replacement. In my opinion, this is due to the presence of color wheel-based noise which I know of no way to reduce. The new fan may be slightly quieter than the original, but not by much and the color-wheel whine makes such a difference mute. Onion's experience appears to have been different (inaudible from 1 meter??). Maybe he had a bad original fan, maybe the color-wheel noise on my projector is louder than his, it's hard to say as noise perception and sensitivity varies from person to person and I have no tools to objectively measure noise output, but this has been my personal experience so far. I have dabbled in the quiet pc enthusiast realm, so my sensitivity to noise is likely higher than most.

-I'll send a final update after testing the two fans on order, but as of today, I cannot recommend fan replacement to significantly reduce projector noise, unless you feel there's something wrong with the original fan. But, if you want to be able to learn how to take your projector apart and put it back together in under 15 minutes, by all means go for it :D


Agree that the fan does not initially run at 12v, as with both fans that I tried, I could hear the fan notch up in speed as the heat increased.

Both fans I tried were noticably quieter on startup than the original fan(of course they are not moving as much air), but then they got loud as speed increased and the unit eventually shut down.

I think you're correct in not much being gained in a fan swap, as the fans I looked at that had similar CFM to the original, also had similar dBA ratings.

Yes, I've gotten pretty proficient at taking this thing apart & putting it back together again.

I got my NewEgg D1 yesterday, all new packaging and the unit was in great shape! Never even plugged it in until the cap was replaced about a 20-30 min job. The unit came with the latest firmware installed so setup was a snap. I plugged in the settings for 854x480 @47MHZ and made the appropriate adjustments to the projector according to BOB W. Then I put in DVE and calibrated Brightness and contrast. I set the region code to 0 but when I put a region 1 copy of Spiderman it would not play. So back to region 1 worked great. All I can say about the picture is wow! I used to think my Sony player was great but this puts it to shame! On the down side the remote sucks! so I will be programming my Harmony to it today

(I highly recommend the 560 for the price great remote and it will run anything).

I had to hook my HD receiver up to component and the picture suffered. So If I could get some suggestions for a DVI switch box from the group it would be great.

For those of you sitting on the fence, I suggest you order a D1 before they are gone. You will not be disappointed!!!

Thanks again CAVU for all your help!!!!

Homer

Well, the cap swap took about 20 minutes. The hardest part was disconnecting the ps cable from the decoder board. Someone went glue-happy.As I have mentioned before, when doing the mod, it is best not to attempt to remove the three DC connectors because, as boukante points out, they are glued in place.

It is best just to remove the four screws and unplug the two AC connectors from the back of the board. Then flip the power supply board upside down onto the DVD loader.

You should certainly slip a piece of cardboard (or a mousepad ;)) or somesuch between the loader and the power supply board so that you don't scratch or otherwise damage the loader while changing the capacitor.

IAC, I for one would like to know from the new D1 owners (and particularily the "converts") whether or not the "1:1 PQ" on the SP4805 is living up to your expectations. Do you find it as good as I promised? How does it compare to your previous equipment? How does it compare to your HTPC experience?

Do you see an improvement in film-based DVDs by using the 48Hz refresh rate over the standard 60Hz? How 'bout the 72Hz?

Finally, would you agree with my hypothesis that the D1 and the 4805 (and likely the IN72) is a truly synergystic combination who's value will last a long time into the future for DVD buffs? Do you feel that as a result of this PQ that you will hold off moving to a 720 or 1080 projector?

I got my 4805 in Nov. 2005 and had it running from an htpc but only thru vga, I also had it running from a liteon lvd-2001 480i component and I thought the picture looked great. But I like a sharp picture and wasn't quite getting it from what I had. I received my d1 yesterday so I haven't had a chance to watch a full movie yet, but the picture is definitely better. I was playing a clip from Monster's Inc. and my wife who never notices anything, said "the picture looks so much sharper and clearer". If she notices it is a definite improvement. I won't be moving to anything better for a long time.

I had to hook my HD receiver up to component and the picture suffered. So If I could get some suggestions for a DVI switch box from the group it would be great.


Homer


Yes, this is my predicament also, but the DVI boxes I see are over 200 bucks and not sure of their quality or signal degredation.

As I say, the Chinese OEM assembler was/is not aware of the problem let alone the solution. They know little about the product other than they want to clear it out.

I could understand their need to clear it out (sure inventory sucks, but why now all of a sudden?) It seems to me if Vizio were getting all the complaints and returns for this defect, then everyone in the supply chain, manufacturing, QA, and fulfillment would know about it (several months now versus a few weeks availability at the "big 3" retailers). Also, you had mention that there is now a sticker on these new ones versus a stamp and these new ones are all coming with the latest firmware, although not as surprising if they indeed were the last batches.

Whatever the case may be, it is a delight to see that everyone except one have received a working D1 and all the benefits of it. Still trying to decide on a retailer. Newegg looks the most promising with an apparent no hassal return/exchange.

IAC, I for one would like to know from the new D1 owners (and particularily the "converts") whether or not the "1:1 PQ" on the SP4805 is living up to your expectations. Do you find it as good as I promised? How does it compare to your previous equipment? How does it compare to your HTPC experience?

Do you see an improvement in film-based DVDs by using the 48Hz refresh rate over the standard 60Hz? How 'bout the 72Hz?

Finally, would you agree with my hypothesis that the D1 and the 4805 (and likely the IN72) is a truly synergystic combination who's value will last a long time into the future for DVD buffs? Do you feel that as a result of this PQ that you will hold off moving to a 720 or 1080 projector?

I would very much like to know about this too and the sooner the better, like today. I am going to order the D1 sometime today. I was holding till cavu set up the mod website, but I can't wait any longer.

Got my UBID D1 in yesterday. Everything looked brand new and was shipped double boxed. Plugged it in and turned it on and everything looked fine. Connected the D1 via DVI to the 4805 and got it pixel mapped. Just as a reference point, the 4805 is my 6th projection unit and I get to use various units at work. Here are my impressions with no tweaks to the 4805 or D1:

First of all, the 4805 is a superb projector for money for use with DVD sources in a light controlled environment. I am also using a 92" Greywolf screen that increases the contrast levels even further. I have been feeding the 4805 via component with a Panasonic CDP72, which is known to have a decent video processor. I have also been feeding the 4805 with a HTPC through the DVI port using an ATI Radeo 9600 video card. I have pretty much used Power DVD as the DVD player on the HTPC. The HTPC is 1:1 pixel mapped to the 4805. The difference between the CDP72 and the HTPC has always been slight. You can get a very good picture from the 4805 and a standard DVD player using 480i and letting the 4805 processor do it's thing. You can get an even sharper picture with a pixel mapped HTPC, with minimal tweaking. With a fair amount of tweaking you probably can get great picture using the HTPC.

To put it simply, the D1 blows my current DVD and HTPC setups away. The picture generated by the D1 and 4805 is simply stunning. The most apparent difference is the amount of fine detail in the image. The image can look very 3d at times. Finding Nemo looks like a High Definition feed. The color also looks to be very good. I will probably get around to tweaking the 4805 and the D1 for a little more improvement, but the out of the box performance is impressive.

In my opinion, the 4805 / D1 combination probably represents the best combination to squeeze out the best possible performance from the current DVD technology. I doubt if you are going to get a whole lot more quality out of more expensive higher resolution projectors , DVD players, or HTPCs. The 4805 / D1 combo certainly represents an incredible value in home theater. Of course the current D1 pricing makes this unit an incredible HT value even with its warts. I guess when they are gone, there won't be a low cost comparable replacement. At the prices these units are going for, maybe I should just buy a second one for parts :)

Hey all
So I have a PC that I moved to the living room just to test out as an HTPC.

Specs:
AMD XP3000
GeForce 7300
InFocus SP4805

I am currently using a VGA to M1 adapter provided with the projector. I just can't get the resolution to look right. I saw in the FAQ that only DVI can support pixel mapping. What does that mean??

Can anyone point me to a link or website that walks you through the basics of HTPC, Resoltuion, Powerstrip, and TheateTek?

Thanks

Hey fellas. As I mentioned a page or two ago, I got my D1 yesterday and wasted no time. I immediately did the cap swap, and then loaded the latest firmware, plugged in all the #'s for the custom resolution and all without a hitch. I was previously using a Sony DVP-NS575 @ 480i over component to feed the 4805. The picture was good, but now with the D1 pixel mapping 854x480 @48hz with the 4805, the picture is simply stunning! Simply put, they were made for each other.

I don't care how or why the D1 is making it's resurgence, but I'm damn glad it is!!! If your on the fence about getting a D1, I would say "do it!" Don't wait for this whole thing between Vizio & the OEM to get straightned out, by then it might be too late and the D1 could very well disappear forever. I'm thinking of getting another one just as a backup. You could spend more...or a whole hell of alot more for another player, and still not get the image you'd get with the D1.

Sure, the D1 may have a few quirks (crappy remote, possibly a buggy loader which can easily be replaced), but I'm willing to put up with them. At $79-$99 bucks it can't be beat! Hell, you'd spend more for dinner and a movie for the family. And, with the wealth of knowledge here (CAVU) ;) just about anything can be resolved.

I don't have the time or the money (WAF) for that dream HTPC, let alone the patience! Even If I were an HTPC buff, knowing what I know now, and what the D1 is capable of, I'd still go out and get one just to have.

And, like Forrest Gump said...
"That's all I have to say about that!" ;)

I am currently using a VGA to M1 adapter provided with the projector. I just can't get the resolution to look right. I saw in the FAQ that only DVI can support pixel mapping. What does that mean??

Can anyone point me to a link or website that walks you through the basics of HTPC, Resoltuion, Powerstrip, and TheateTek?


With the VGA output your best option is to send the projector 1280x720 (720p). The projector will scale this down to 480p. As a computer this will look like sh!t. It should be ok for film and videos though. The VGA output will not support 480p. It will support 640x480, but that is 4:3.

DVI -> M1 is the HTPC connection of choice because it is the option that will allow you to pixel map. Pixel mapping has been covered in eye-bleeding detail already. Try the search function up top in this thread. Another suggestion would be to read through Cavu, Brian I Am, and therealgeno's posts. They are the main contributors to the pixel mapping conversation.

Hey fellas. As I mentioned a page or two ago, I got my D1 yesterday and wasted no time. I immediately did the cap swap, and then loaded the latest firmware, plugged in all the #'s for the custom resolution and all without a hitch. I was previously using a Sony DVP-NS525 @ 480i over component to feed the 4805. The picture was good, but now with the D1 pixel mapping 854x480 @48hz with the 4805, the picture is simply stunning! Simply put, they were made for each other.

I don't care how or why the D1 is making it's resurgence, but I'm damn glad it is!!! If your on the fence about getting a D1, I would say "do it!" Don't wait for this whole thing between Vizio & the OEM to get straightned out, by then it might be too late and the D1 could very well disappear forever. I'm thinking of getting another one just as a backup. You could spend more...or a whole hell of alot more for another player, and still not get the image you'd get with the D1.

Sure, the D1 may have a few quirks (crappy remote, possibly a buggy loader which can easily be replaced), but I'm willing to put up with them. At $79-$99 bucks it can't be beat! Hell, you'd spend more for dinner and a movie for the family. And, with the wealth of knowledge here (CAVU) ;) just about anything can be resolved.

I don't have the time or the money (WAF) for that dream HTPC, let alone the patience! Even If I were an HTPC buff, knowing what I know now, and what the D1 is capable of, I'd still go out and get one just to have.

And, like Forrest Gump said...
"That's all I have to say about that!" ;)


I echo the above the only difference being My Sony player is a DVP-NS725. For those of us who want pixel mapping but dont have the time or the GOLD to build a HTPC (The video card alone will set you back $150) this player cannot be beat PERIOD!!!

After reading the last few posts and the fact cavu is going on vacation in April I placed my order today with Newegg. I hope the mod is not too complicated for not DIY guy like me.

I've just received my Newegg D1. I've changed the caps, I am now TRYING to set it up for 1:1 pixel mapping. Here's my problem, how do you check what firmware you have? How do you setup the New Settings? I.E. I think I have the wrong firmware installed so I can't do it. Lastly where do I get the New firmware that allows me to setup my custom DVI settings?

I asked this question a while back but didn't get any responses. Now that we have a lot of 4805 owners that are doing a 1:1 pixel mapping I'll present the question again. A little background; I have a Sony 400 DVD megachanger feeding a iScan HD+ video processor. This in turn feeds my 4805 via DVI-M1 cable. I am 1:1 mapped at 854X480@48Hz. and run a Prismasonic H-1000 anamorphic lens for constant hight 2.35 setup. My screen is 118"X50" Carada 1.4 gain. When I first viewed a movie I was truly impressed with the sharpness of the image, BUT, I did notice that there was more SDE. The question is, do you see this also now that you are pixel mapped?

Don't get me wrong, I love the picture this thing puts out and the SDE is still not a problem.

I asked this question a while back but didn't get any responses. Now that we have a lot of 4805 owners that are doing a 1:1 pixel mapping I'll present the question again. A little background; I have a Sony 400 DVD megachanger feeding a iScan HD+ video processor. This in turn feeds my 4805 via DVI-M1 cable. I am 1:1 mapped at 854X480@48Hz. and run a Prismasonic H-1000 anamorphic lens for constant hight 2.35 setup. My screen is 118"X50" Carada 1.4 gain. When I first viewed a movie I was truly impressed with the sharpness of the image, BUT, I did notice that there was more SDE. The question is, do you see this also now that you are pixel mapped?

Don't get me wrong, I love the picture this thing puts out and the SDE is still not a problem.

SDE will be the same no matter what source you are feeding to the 4805. Do you see the same SDE when you project a blank image? Did anything else change in your setup when from when you noticed the increase SDE (ie screen)?

I asked this question a while back but didn't get any responses. Now that we have a lot of 4805 owners that are doing a 1:1 pixel mapping I'll present the question again. A little background; I have a Sony 400 DVD megachanger feeding a iScan HD+ video processor. This in turn feeds my 4805 via DVI-M1 cable. I am 1:1 mapped at 854X480@48Hz. and run a Prismasonic H-1000 anamorphic lens for constant hight 2.35 setup. My screen is 118"X50" Carada 1.4 gain. When I first viewed a movie I was truly impressed with the sharpness of the image, BUT, I did notice that there was more SDE. The question is, do you see this also now that you are pixel mapped?

Don't get me wrong, I love the picture this thing puts out and the SDE is still not a problem.

Willy,

In my case with the D1/4805 pair-up, there appears to be less SDE, but not alot. At least for me.

After reading the last few posts and the fact cavu is going on vacation in April I placed my order today with Newegg. I hope the mod is not too complicated for not DIY guy like me.

Alex,

The cap swap is a cinch. The job will take you 20-30 min. max. The hardest pasrt is actually getting out the old cap. Take a look at the pic back on pg. 104 so you'll see exactly what it is you'll need take out. As CAVU mentioned the only thing you'll need to do is unscrew the board (4 screws),unplug both power connectors, place a small hand towel over the loader, then flip the board over and have at it.

I used some desoldering braid to help soak up the old molten solder. You can get it at any Ratshack. Once you get the old cap out, make sure to get as much of the old solder off the board, it'll make for much better contact with the new cap & solder.

I then put the new cap in place bending the leads slightly to hold it in place, then flip the board over and solder into place. Then just take a pair of nail clippers and clip off the excess leads. Reassemble and you're done!

I guess you have to read into the Vizio website instructions,
* Player connected via DVI-D
* Power the player
* Press the TV MODE button on the player remote until 'DVI' appears of the player fluorescent display.
* The Bravo D2 splash screen should appear on the TV.
* Press SETUP on the player. Scroll to the Video Setting section and enter that area and highlight HD DVI OUT.
* Key in 9713. The Custom Settings menu with the settings previously entered will be displayed.
* Press ENTER to accept.
* Press SETUP to exit the setup menu.
This works for me:-) I had the right firmware all along I guess.

You have set the Bob William's RGB Gain and Offsets. Right?
Where i can find this settings? and when i should use them? Only with Bravo D1 player?

On the other hand what this settings do? i didn´t notice too much a difference by moving them.. so... some help will be appreciated.

thanks

I had to hook my HD receiver up to component and the picture suffered. So If I could get some suggestions for a DVI switch box from the group it would be great.

You will have to do some sort of calibration to your HD box over component, I think my brightness/contrast are something like 39/49 or vice/versa.

I do know that with my SA8300 there was no noticable difference in HD quality with DVI vs component, so I would tinker with it first before I ditched the component cable you bought and pay for a DVI switch.

The only issue that is sort of known is the rolling bars problem over component, which I'm coming to suspect is some sort of 1080i sync issue.

Wes

ps congrats on the D1- looks impressive, doesn't it? I learned all the remote codes to my universal, works fine

I bought a used D1 a long while back and used it for a very short period (maybe a week) and while I agree it had a nice image with the 4805 it could not match my tweaked HTPC (so I sold it) ;) .

For the money that the D1 sells for now there probably is not a better DVD source to feed your 4805 (certainly no better price to performance) .

---------- Jason

After reading the last few posts and the fact cavu is going on vacation in April I placed my order today with Newegg. I hope the mod is not too complicated for not DIY guy like me.

Make sure you put the new cap in observing proper polarity!

Willy,

In my case with the D1/4805 pair-up, there appears to be less SDE, but not alot. At least for me.

Did you change your seating distance or increase screen size?

SDE will be the same no matter what source you are feeding to the 4805. Do you see the same SDE when you project a blank image? Did anything else change in your setup when from when you noticed the increase SDE (ie screen)?


The only thing that changed was that I added the iScan & DVI-M1 cable. Prior to that I was connected with a component cable sending a 480i signal. Before I was 1:1 the image seemed to be a bit blurry so the SDE was not as noticeable. Now the image is crisp, the pixels are more defined and don’t have that blur between pixels.

I've just received my Newegg D1. I've changed the caps, I am now TRYING to set it up for 1:1 pixel mapping. Here's my problem, how do you check what firmware you have? How do you setup the New Settings? I.E. I think I have the wrong firmware installed so I can't do it. Lastly where do I get the New firmware that allows me to setup my custom DVI settings?

Pm Cavu or Me (Don't want to steal any of his thunder he is a D1 God!) and he or I will send you an e-mail with complete instructions and a copy of the firmware.

You will have to do some sort of calibration to your HD box over component, I think my brightness/contrast are something like 39/49 or vice/versa.

I do know that with my SA8300 there was no noticable difference in HD quality with DVI vs component, so I would tinker with it first before I ditched the component cable you bought and pay for a DVI switch.

The only issue that is sort of known is the rolling bars problem over component, which I'm coming to suspect is some sort of 1080i sync issue.

Wes

ps congrats on the D1- looks impressive, doesn't it? I learned all the remote codes to my universal, works fine

Thanks Wes since it's Friday i'll have the whole weekend to tweak and see how the wifes blood pressure holds up! :D :D :D

Pm Cavu or Me (Don't want to steal any of his thunder he is a D1 God!) and he or I will send you an e-mail with complete instructions.

It wouldn't hurt if you post it here.

Click here to be shown a list of these settings http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e294/ensign1963/moz-screenshot.jpg

Custom settings for D1 DVI: Full credit to CAVU for providing this to me!

After downloading, make an ISO Image CD of the firmware; no other type of CD copy will work. Please refer to your burning software instructions on creating an image CD.
Connect the Composite Video output (yellow) of the Bravo D1 to the Composite Video input of a display or TV. This has to be done because once in the programming mode the Bravo D1 defaults to this output only for providing the instructions during the programming.
Power on the Bravo D1 and Open the disc tray.
Leaving the tray open, power off the Bravo D1 using the Power On/Off Switch on the player. Do not use the Power button on the Remote Control.
Place the CD of the new firmware in the tray, press and hold the STOP button on the Bravo D1, power on the Bravo D1 using the Power On/Off Switch on the player.
The display on the front of the Bravo D1 should show “BOOT CD”. After this message appears the STOP button can be released.
The message will change to “Loading”, and after this a menu will appear on the Composite Video output. *(There will be a 1-2 minute interval before the screen is displayed).
Then follow the on screen instructions.

Here are the instructions for accessing the "secret" menus on the Bravo D1 from the remote control:

DVI Custom Setting

To use devices, such as video projectors, which may require custom setting of the DVI-output parameters, go into Setup to the Video Setting for DVI-Out.

Press the Right Arrow once, then enter 9713 to get the DVI Custom Setting screen. The various parameters for your projector can now be entered and saved.

Here are two sets of numbers which can be tried for the SP4805. Both eliminate 3:2 pulldown altogether:





DVD Regional Code Selection

DVD discs and DVD players are manufactured under the DVD Regional Code System, a worldwide standard. DVD players only play discs possessing the same Regional Code as the player.

To change the Regional Code, press Right-Down-Left-Up-ENTER-1 to get the Regional Code Setting screen. The Regional Code can now be entered and saved. Selecting Regional Code=0 makes the player "region-free" and it will play discs from all regions.


Note:

Custom settings can revert to 480p if the player loses power and the user enters the setup screen to confirm the settings. The setup screen will indicate 480p, but the output will actually be the previously entered custom settings. On exiting the setup menu, the player will revert to 480p, unless the user re-established the custom setting by performing the steps below: This applies to firmware versions 1.1.11 and below. To re-establish your custom settings:
Player connected via DVI-D
Power the player
Press the TV MODE button on the player remote until 'DVI' appears of the player fluorescent display.
The Bravo D1 splash screen should appear on the TV.
Press SETUP on the player. Scroll to the Video Setting section and enter that area and highlight HD DVI OUT.
Key in 9713. The Custom Settings menu with the settings previously entered will be displayed.
Press ENTER to accept.
Press SETUP to exit the setup menu.

Could somebody put together a post or link containing all the info for calibrating the 4805 and the D1 for 1:1 pixel mapping with the D1? I am sure it is in this monster thread somewhere. I have seen the settings separately, but it would be nice to have a quick how-to document. Maybe even a quick explanation of what this improves would also be nice.

The only thing that changed was that I added the iScan & DVI-M1 cable. Prior to that I was connected with a component cable sending a 480i signal. Before I was 1:1 the image seemed to be a bit blurry so the SDE was not as noticeable. Now the image is crisp, the pixels are more defined and don’t have that blur between pixels.

I see. What have you done to calibrate your system? Is your dvd player an SDI modded to the scaler, or do you have it connected via component at 480i?

Could somebody put together a post or link containing all the info for calibrating the 4805 and the D1 for 1:1 pixel mapping with the D1? I am sure it is in this monster thread somewhere. I have seen the settings separately, but it would be nice to have a quick how-to document. Maybe even a quick explanation of what this improves would also be nice.

Look above your post: :D

The only thing that changed was that I added the iScan & DVI-M1 cable. Prior to that I was connected with a component cable sending a 480i signal. Before I was 1:1 the image seemed to be a bit blurry so the SDE was not as noticeable. Now the image is crisp, the pixels are more defined and don’t have that blur between pixels.

I noticed less SDE using component. I then switched to DVI and HTPC and noticed lots more SDE especially on bright scenes. I recently switched to the D1 over DVI and it appears to be equal to the component in SDE but sharper. I am sure there is a reasonable technical reason for this that someone may expound on :)

Look above your post: :D

Yep, I saw that. :rolleyes: Ask and ye shall recieve. However, isn't there some tweaks that should be done in conjuction with this on the 4805 or is this all that needs to be done? Also what the heck are we improving on the D1 and is there a way to go back to factory defaults if necessary?

Inquring minds want to know................... :D

Thanks!

The only thing that changed was that I added the iScan & DVI-M1 cable. Prior to that I was connected with a component cable sending a 480i signal. Before I was 1:1 the image seemed to be a bit blurry so the SDE was not as noticeable. Now the image is crisp, the pixels are more defined and don’t have that blur between pixels.


Take the focus ring on your 4805, and turn it ever so slightly out of focus. Voila. To me it sounds like you adjusted the focus ever so slightly when you installed the iScan and DVI-M1. Perhaps it just got bumbed even. The pixels are not infact altered by 1 to 1 mapping. Just the colours and content they are producing. The spacing between the pixels does not change either. The factors affecting SDE come from the optical path. The digital signal (how it originates, is processed, and transmitted) does not physically affect the SDE. The only possible explanation I can think of is that your brain is not extrapolating the colours between the pixels in the same manner as it did with a less detailed image. This argument is weak at best, as the brain doesn't develop this extrapolating behaviour in any short amount of time. It does do this to compensate for the blind spot we all have where the optic nerve enters the eye.

Yep, I saw that. :rolleyes: Ask and ye shall recieve. However, isn't there some tweaks that should be done in conjuction with this on the 4805 or is this all that needs to be done? Also what the heck are we improving on the D1 and is there a way to go back to factory defaults if necessary?

Inquring minds want to know................... :D

Thanks!

Change your Color gains to 58 and your offsets to 28.5 (on the offsets when you get to 29 stop and push the down arrow until 28 appears this will put you at the 28.5 setting) Also a good idea to calibrate Brightness and contrast with a DVD such DVE or Avia. You can get DVE on Overstock.com (Hope that does not Break any rules).

Yes you can reset your player to default if you wish.

Did you change your seating distance or increase screen size?

Neither. Everything's the same. I don't know if it's the increased clarity with the pixel mapped image, but to my eyes the SDE is being percieved as a little less.

I think the more visible screen door could be the change in white level. I'm guessing over component, the IRE level was too low from the original source and wasn't accounted for correctly, whereas over DVI white level is easier to calibrate.

I was just calibrating my Xbox the other day over component 480i. I had to constantly A/B the white level from my Oppo over DVI and my xbox and I had to set the 4805's contrast level to 100 on the xbox to get the white level the same as the Oppos.

I see. What have you done to calibrate your system? Is your dvd player an SDI modded to the scaler, or do you have it connected via component at 480i?

The DVD player is connected to the iScan via component at 480i. SDI mod is way too much money. I tried HDMi-DVI (480P) from the DVD to iScan but it had some sparkly edges that I didn't like. First I set the gain/offset to 58/28.5 on the 4805 then I calibrated the source to the iScan input via Avia using the iScan controls, and then verified the iScan output to the 4805 via test patterns from the VP. No further adjustments needed. Brightness, Contrast, & color all OK. Tested with the iScan checkerboard test pattern and all pixels square and defined. I use the checkerboard test pattern also to set my focus. Since my 4805 is not perfectly level, I can't achieve 100% focus across the screen. With the checkerboard test pattern still up and looking at it from 10' away there was no abnormal patterns, just looked smooth gray. Just to test, I put the 4805 into letterbox mode to see how it would screw up the checkerboard and boy did it, so I'm certain I'm mapped correctly. I know I'm doing a DAC a couple of times but it still looks great. It would have been great if the Sony DVP-CX995V was capable of 480i over HDMI but it's not and no other mega changer is. I prefer to have the convenience of 400 DVD's loaded and ready to play (only have 212 DVD's loaded now) than a single DVD player with a true digital signal all the way, BUT, I would prefer to have it both ways.

Ok - you guys got me. Just ordered a D1. Now I need to see if my local RatShack has that cap...

Ok - you guys got me. Just ordered a D1. Now I need to see if my local RatShack has that cap...

You wont be sorry we promise :D :D :D

Try Ratshacks that are not in malls(All they seem to have is RC cars and Cell Phones). the stand alone stores carry more inventory. Part number is 272-1032.

Good hunting

The DVD player is connected to the iScan via component at 480i. SDI mod is way too much money. I tried HDMi-DVI (480P) from the DVD to iScan but it had some sparkly edges that I didn't like. First I set the gain/offset to 58/28.5 on the 4805 then I calibrated the source to the iScan input via Avia using the iScan controls, and then verified the iScan output to the 4805 via test patterns from the VP. No further adjustments needed. Brightness, Contrast, & color all OK. Tested with the iScan checkerboard test pattern and all pixels square and defined. I use the checkerboard test pattern also to set my focus. Since my 4805 is not perfectly level, I can't achieve 100% focus across the screen. With the checkerboard test pattern still up and looking at it from 10' away there was no abnormal patterns, just looked smooth gray. Just to test, I put the 4805 into letterbox mode to see how it would screw up the checkerboard and boy did it, so I'm certain I'm mapped correctly. I know I'm doing a DAC a couple of times but it still looks great. It would have been great if the Sony DVP-CX995V was capable of 480i over HDMI but it's not and no other mega changer is. I prefer to have the convenience of 400 DVD's loaded and ready to play (only have 212 DVD's loaded now) than a single DVD player with a true digital signal all the way, BUT, I would prefer to have it both ways.

Thanks for the clarification. As for the increase SDE, I don't understand how your set up could've increased it, as I mention earlier, take a look at a blank white screen using the blank button on the remote. Do you have any other sources connected to the 4805 like an hd tuner? Is the SDE any different or the same for other sources?

Do anyone here have a source for long M4 screws? I'm about to make a new mount for my projector. The screws I have in my current mount are about 1 1/2". I am looking for something longer in length.

Do anyone here have a source for long M4 screws? I'm about to make a new mount for my projector. The screws I have in my current mount are about 1 1/2". I am looking for something longer in length.

Curtis,

When I was building my mount I had a hard time finding long M4 screws. I started searching for "Mom & Pop" type hardware stores and found one that had what I needed. I sketched out a diagram of all the parts I wanted and was able to buy exactly I needed. It was a lot nicer than buying bulk packages at the local big box store.

- boukante

Man, the D1 cult is in full swing - and it has brought the 4805 thread back to its busiest time since the "Golden Era" last summer! :D

I thought I should add that Bob Williams used this player to test for Studio DVI and also tested the 58/28.5. Since these were perfect on this player, then there is NO need to calibrate contrast/brightness since the white and black levels are already perfect @ 16-235.

But this raises a question. Does the Bravo have color/tint controls? The 4805 does not offer sat/hue in 480p, so I am assuming that it can be calibrated via the player.

Hmmmm. It's kinda tempting. But do I really want to chance finding out all that HTPC tweaking was in vain?? ;)

Does the Bravo have color/tint controls? The 4805 does not offer sat/hue in 480p, so I am assuming that it can be calibrated via the player.Negative re the D1.

The D2 has Brightness, Contrast and Saturation controls (not a selling point IMHO).

Two questions please,

Whats the safest best way to ship a 4805 cross country? I have the original shipping box, it's large with 5-6 inches of soft foam on each side.

Anyone test/use the monoprice M1-DVi cables over 25 feet , 35? 50??


thanks

Infocus warranty services recommends a large box - several layers of bubble wrap around the projector - then foam peanuts for fill-in. Whatever you do insure the package and make sure the clerk inspects your packing so they do not blame you for insufficient packaging. They do not want your original box back - otherwise they would have to track which projector goes with which box.

Man, the D1 cult is in full swing - and it has brought the 4805 thread back to its busiest time since the "Golden Era" last summer! :D

I thought I should add that Bob Williams used this player to test for Studio DVI and also tested the 58/28.5. Since these were perfect on this player, then there is NO need to calibrate contrast/brightness since the white and black levels are already perfect @ 16-235.

But this raises a question. Does the Bravo have color/tint controls? The 4805 does not offer sat/hue in 480p, so I am assuming that it can be calibrated via the player.

Hmmmm. It's kinda tempting. But do I really want to chance finding out all that HTPC tweaking was in vain?? ;)

Come on Geno!!! You know you want one. What do you have to lose? $79-99 bucks! Hell, I've lost more...lots more playin poker with the boys! :p

Seriously though, I wanted the D1 or even D2 when I first got the 4805 back in Dec. '04, but I couldn't close the deal with the (WAF), especially after spending what I just spent for the 4805 itself!!!! ;)

But, now with the availibilty of the D1, not to mention the killer price, I can't see not having one in the rack. Even if you already have an HTPC!!! Now, I'm fully aware that an HTPC will give you countless hours of tweakability, and a better image than that of the D1...BUUUUUUTTTTTT, :rolleyes:

at this price, I can't see not having one. It does exactly what it was intended to...1:1 pixel mapping!!! And I find it hard to believe that there is any other player at this price point that can give the image that the D1 does.

Oh, & to answer your question, the D1 doesn't have B/C/C/T control, the D2 does however. :D

Infocus warranty services recommends a large box - several layers of bubble wrap around the projector - then foam peanuts for fill-in. Whatever you do insure the package and make sure the clerk inspects your packing so they do not blame you for insufficient packaging. They do not want your original box back - otherwise they would have to track which projector goes with which box.


I'm shipping it to myself,

Oh - in that case I presume you would want the original box to go with your projector! Just pack it the way it came.

Hmmmm. It's kinda tempting. But do I really want to chance finding out all that HTPC tweaking was in vain?? ;)


Hope not for your sake. Weren't you one of th o nes saying how superior an HTPC is over a D1 (earlier in this thread when I brought it up)?

You wont be sorry we promise :D :D :D

Try Ratshacks that are not in malls(All they seem to have is RC cars and Cell Phones). the stand alone stores carry more inventory. Part number is 272-1032.

Good hunting
Hmmm - now it looks like Monoprice is backordered until 3/30 on the 35 ft DVI-D to M1 cable. :(

I guess that'll give me time to replace the cap. :)

Hmmm - now it looks like Monoprice is backordered until 3/30 on the 35 ft DVI-D to M1 cable. :(

I guess that'll give me time to replace the cap. :)

But they aren't sold out of 35 & 50 ft DVI-DVI cables and DVI-M1 adapters. This might even be a better choice since the cable will be good for more than just the infocus devices.

I just got my Monoprice DVI-M1 50ft cable today. When I get it all hooked up with my D1 (yes I bit the bullet too, thanks Cavu) I will be sure to let you know about the cable's performance. Just note that I have no testing equipment and might not know what to look for. If the cable doesn't pass the signal at all, I'll let you know. If the picture looks like cr4p, I'll let you know. Other than that...I'm not sure what I'll be able to tell you.

Whats the safest best way to ship a 4805 cross country? When I ship camcorders back after repair I use the box within a box method, which UPS reccomends. The smaller box is suspended within the larger box, (styrofoam or rolled papers) so that any penetration of the outer box (or impact) has a gap before it would contact the inner box. Packing peanuts tend to shift, allowing the inner box to rest against the outer box, defeating the protection.

Anyone test/use the monoprice M1-DVi cables over 25 feet , 35? 50??

thanks

I use a 50 footer from MonoPrice between my 4805 and HTPC and have no problems. With the price as low as it was I was a little worried ordering it, but am very happy with it. I also use thier 25' component, S-Video, composite, and RCA audio cables with my 4805 and all of them work well.

Come on Geno!!! You know you want one. What do you have to lose? $79-99 bucks! Hell, I've lost more...lots more playin poker with the boys! :p

Seriously though, I wanted the D1 or even D2 when I first got the 4805 back in Dec. '04, but I couldn't close the deal with the (WAF), especially after spending what I just spent for the 4805 itself!!!! ;)

But, now with the availibilty of the D1, not to mention the killer price, I can't see not having one in the rack. Even if you already have an HTPC!!! Now, I'm fully aware that an HTPC will give you countless hours of tweakability, and a better image than that of the D1...BUUUUUUTTTTTT, :rolleyes:

at this price, I can't see not having one. It does exactly what it was intended to...1:1 pixel mapping!!! And I find it hard to believe that there is any other player at this price point that can give the image that the D1 does.

Oh, & to answer your question, the D1 doesn't have B/C/C/T control, the D2 does however. :D

This thread is amazing. One point in time it introduced me to HTPC. I was planning to put a old PC to work once my basement is done. Now this D1 storm.

It's really tempting to go for D1 compared to the old PC I wanted to use. Still on the fence and thinking if it would be the right decision...

Encourage me folks... :confused:

This thread is amazing. One point in time it introduced me to HTPC. I was planning to put a old PC to work once my basement is done. Now this D1 storm.

It's really tempting to go for D1 compared to the old PC I wanted to use. Still on the fence and thinking if it would be the right decision...

Encourage me folks... :confused:

Why not do both? Like I mentioned previously, at the $79-99 price point you can't go wrong! Heck you're gonna spend more on a video card for that HTPC than you will on a D1.

Do the HTPC, but get a D1 as well as a back up, or for those times you just don't feel like firing up the old HTPC.

Turned my pj on today, and the left quarter of the image looks like it's covered by something. I looked at the lense, and saw a diagonal object blocking some of the light so I figured I'd open it up and remove some dust blobs at the same time. Took the lense out and the diagonal object was completely stuck in place, it definitely didn't move. Put everything back and the image is still covered or blocked by something. Any ideas? Fiance has the camera otherwise I'd post a pic.

Why not do both? Like I mentioned previously, at the $79-99 price point you can't go wrong! Heck you're gonna spend more on a video card for that HTPC than you will on a D1.

Do the HTPC, but get a D1 as well as a back up, or for those times you just don't feel like firing up the old HTPC.

Just wanted to make sure, if D1 will drive the 25' DVI-D dual link (from monoprice) with the DVI-M1D adapter.

I remember Cavu mentioning sometime back that certain cables has issue with D1.

I believe it was cables over 15' with the D2

as i was decided to get oppo and this long thread about D1 made me back to square 1 again lol. i just want to clarify. all D1 caps needs to be replace? whats wrong with the caps? and also about all the settings i see here for D1, is this only possible if you modify your D1 player or these features are built-in? im really tempted to get D1 instead of the oppo specially its about half the price. im just worried about replacing caps or modify anything inside since i dont have any clue about electronic parts. and lastly, where can i get this player? thank you.

all D1 caps needs to be replace? whats wrong with the caps?Only the C1022 capacitor on the D1 power supply requires replacement. That capacitor will fail eventually on all D1 units. The problem is a manufacturing issue with the capacitor itself.about all the settings i see here for D1, is this only possible if you modify your D1 player or these features are built-in? ... where can i get this player?The D1 requires the latest firmware upgrade to access all of the features.

All D1s will do 1:1 pixel-mapping at 852x480@60Hz out of the box. To enable a full 854x480 plus the ability to set any custom resolution, change the refresh rate, enable upscaling over component and region-free operation you need to glash the plauer with the latest firmware.

You can find D1s occasionally on eBay plus there are a limited number of units being sold on newegg, ubid and chief value. But the warranty on those units is handled by the Chinese OEM who built the players under contract for Vizio.

I have made many, many posts on this topic. Check out the following thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7307164&&#post7307164) for information of replacing the capacitor.

I'm dropping you into the middle with that link so you should browse earlier and later messages.

If you need the firmware, PM me with your email.

Just wanted to make sure, if D1 will drive the 25' DVI-D dual link (from monoprice) with the DVI-M1D adapter.

I remember Cavu mentioning sometime back that certain cables has issue with D1.

I have the 25' cable on my D1. No problem it looks great!

ps. I answered your pm but need your e-mail to send you the info and upload.

I have the 25' cable on my D1. No problem it looks great!

ps. I answered your pm but need your e-mail to send you the info and upload.

Thanks Homer,

I have just replied to the PM.

:)

Hi All,

Everyone has almost sold me to go for the D1. Just one last question.

Is the PQ from D1 (1:1) is better or at (least) par with the low end HTPC (CPU 500 MHZ, PowerDVD, no TT, FFDSHOW)?

Just wnated to make sure on the right decision.

Thanks,

Anyone test/use the monoprice M1-DVi cables over 25 feet , 35? 50??



I'm using the 50 foot monoprice cable with the D1; works well, great PQ.
I went ahead with the cap change and all is well. Many thanks to CAVU and everyone who shares info here.

Hi All,

Everyone has almost sold me to go for the D1. Just one last question.

Is the PQ from D1 (1:1) is better or at (least) par with the low end HTPC (CPU 500 MHZ, PowerDVD, no TT, FFDSHOW)?

Just wnated to make sure on the right decision.

Thanks,

I'm no HTPC expert by anymeans...hell I don't even have one. But, I do know that with the setup you mentioned you wouldn't be able to pixel map to your 4805. Which IMHO, defeats the purpose of even having a HTPC.

At the very least, you'd need a pc with with a video card that has DVI out, POWERSTRIP, and a decent dvd playback software.

Hi All,

Everyone has almost sold me to go for the D1. Just one last question.

Is the PQ from D1 (1:1) is better or at (least) par with the low end HTPC (CPU 500 MHZ, PowerDVD, no TT, FFDSHOW)?

Just wnated to make sure on the right decision.

Thanks,

I can tell you that the picture quality is as good as a high end Sony HTPC I have seen on display with a 50" Plasma at CC. Go for it if it doesn't meet your needs you can always sell it on E-BAY and make money when the supply runs out.

Interesting story-

I was at my brother-in-law's yesterday, and he is running a 4805 with a 110" dazian screen in a dedicated room, has the Snazio network dvd player, and a SA 8300 HD DVR (like me).

On any cable channel, his rolling bars were so bad that he was getting diagonal moire patterns in addition to the bars that were scrolling up and down. It almost looked like someone was tapping a corner of the screen and causing waves diagonally back and forth.

We've had a little discussion here (well sometimes a lot) about these bars (they're really narrow, fast moving) and whether they were some kind of ground loop or RF hash, or whatever, and some people have mentioned they were worse for them in 1080i.

So, I checked the setup on his SA box, and it was set to "Upconvert 2", which upconverts every signal (SD and HD) to 1080i and then sends it to the display.

I changed that to "pass through" which will pass the native resolution of the source along to the display, letting the 4805 do the 480i work on SD, etc. I had to leave, but left instructions with him for going into the initial setup menu and disabling 1080i.

He called me last night. and was successful in changing how his box was set up. It will only send 480i to the pj for SD and for HD feeds it only sends 720p, so if the channel is native 720p it passes it through, and 1080i feeds are downconverted by the box to 720p and then sent to the pj. He told me his bars are gone. All of them.

I'll check with him today and see if there's been any change, but I think we're on to something. These bars occur only over component, and are the worst at 1080i. Either there's some sort of signal problem over the component run (even though I have very good cables) or the 4805 has some sort of sync problem with 1080i over component that shows itself in these fast and faint rolling bars.

See what you think. I'm going to disable 1080i on my box today and see. It's a bummer we would need to do that, but I would rather have a downconverted stable image without the moving bars. . .

Wes

Cavu,

all D1 cap needs to be replace or theres just certain batch that has bad caps? if i dont change the cap, is it guaranteed that the D1 will stop working? just curious since i dont trust myself changing the cap. i may end up having a $100 paperwieght. unless somebody around San Jose CA can help me :)

Cavu,

all D1 cap needs to be replace or theres just certain batch that has bad caps? if i dont change the cap, is it guaranteed that the D1 will stop working? just curious since i dont trust myself changing the cap. i may end up having a $100 paperwieght. unless somebody around San Jose CA can help me :)

He's answered this many, many times already. . .

They're all the same, it would appear, especially this new batch. If the offending cap (search for the #) is 16v, it needs to go. Up to this point, they have all been the 16v cap, and need to be swapped.

It is only *one* cap that is bad. . .

Cavu can add more detail as he sees fit. . .

Wes

Hi All,

Everyone has almost sold me to go for the D1. Just one last question.

Is the PQ from D1 (1:1) is better or at (least) par with the low end HTPC (CPU 500 MHZ, PowerDVD, no TT, FFDSHOW)?

Just wnated to make sure on the right decision.

Thanks,

Yes! I have a fairly decent HTPC 1:1 pixel mapped. I have applied all the recommended tweaks to the 4805 and D1. I would say the PQ is noticibly better. The one thing that I cannot explain is the SDE effect is much reduced using the D1 delivering a very smooth detailed image with great color.

Turned my pj on today, and the left quarter of the image looks like it's covered by something. I looked at the lense, and saw a diagonal object blocking some of the light so I figured I'd open it up and remove some dust blobs at the same time. Took the lense out and the diagonal object was completely stuck in place, it definitely didn't move. Put everything back and the image is still covered or blocked by something. Any ideas? Fiance has the camera otherwise I'd post a pic.

Did anybody have any suggestions for this guy. I'm curious what it was.

is it guaranteed that the D1 will stop working?Yes. Sooner or later that capacitor will fail.i dont trust myself changing the cap.Well, buy the capacitor at Radio Shack (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102511&cp=2032058.2032230.2032267&allCount=102&fbn=Type%2FElectrolytic+Capacitors&f=PAD%2FProduct+Type%2FElectrolytic+Capacitors&fbc=1&parentPage=family) now. Write "C1022" on some masking tape and tape the capacitor to the rear panel of the D1. Use and enjoy the D1 till it starts to fail. Then, worst case, take it to a service shop and pay them 30 minutes labour to change it for you.unless somebody around San Jose CA can help meAs I recall, there are a few people in the San Jose area that do know how to solder. An idea: If you really don't know ANYONE, ask at the local Radio Shack where you buy the cap if they know anyone who would solder it in for you for a beer. They deal every day with the kind of customer that would pay you to take the cover off your player, if ya know what I mean ;)

It may be a temporary situation, but Infocus no longer has any refurbs on their web-site and only one left on their e.bay store (http://store.infocus.com/escalate/store/DisplayVisitor?pls=infocus&page=ClearanceCenter&loginPage=ClearanceCenter).

Have we reached the end??

Yes! I have a fairly decent HTPC 1:1 pixel mapped. I have applied all the recommended tweaks to the 4805 and D1. I would say the PQ is noticibly better. The one thing that I cannot explain is the SDE effect is much reduced using the D1 delivering a very smooth detailed image with great color.

I have a HTPC with 6600GT + Zoomplayer + Purevideo + ffdshow pixel mapped to 4805. I use it only for watching DVD's. All this Bravo discussion is making me think about dumping HTPC altogether. Does anyone have a comparison with similar setup and Bravo D1?

Have we reached the end??

I read this and the first thing that popped into my head was the Doors song :p

For those interested there is a geforce 6200 (agp) with dvi for sale around 35 or so that should make for a cheeper solution to a htpc. Even does high-def H.264 decoding. No games though I would imagine.

I dont think I can post it on here so for those interested pm me

So, I checked the setup on his SA box, and it was set to "Upconvert 2", which upconverts every signal (SD and HD) to 1080i and then sends it to the display.

I changed that to "pass through" which will pass the native resolution of the source along to the display, letting the 4805 do the 480i work on SD, etc. I had to leave, but left instructions with him for going into the initial setup menu and disabling 1080i.

He called me last night. and was successful in changing how his box was set up. It will only send 480i to the pj for SD and for HD feeds it only sends 720p, so if the channel is native 720p it passes it through, and 1080i feeds are downconverted by the box to 720p and then sent to the pj. He told me his bars are gone. All of them.

I'll check with him today and see if there's been any change, but I think we're on to something. These bars occur only over component, and are the worst at 1080i. Either there's some sort of signal problem over the component run (even though I have very good cables) or the 4805 has some sort of sync problem with 1080i over component that shows itself in these fast and faint rolling bars.

See what you think. I'm going to disable 1080i on my box today and see. It's a bummer we would need to do that, but I would rather have a downconverted stable image without the moving bars. . .

Wes
Wes,

I have sneaking suspicion that these rolling bars must have something to do with how your cable company connects into your home and is not an inherent problem with the SA8300. I have the SA8300 and have never had any problems with it in regards to rolling bars, no matter which way I have it set to output a signal.

I currently have the box set up to pass-through the signal over component cables. The box outputs a 480i signal for channels 1-99. All the rest of the channels from 100-999 come through in 1080i except the HD feeds of Fox, ABC, ESPN and the NFL channel. They come through in 720P.

My cable company is Adelphia and their SA8300HD DVR's have an HDMI port and use the SARA Passport software. With this version of software, you even have the capability to hook up a 400GB external drive and really increase the storage capacity of your DVR. I'm not sure if you have looked into the DVR threads yet but there is a ton of info over there.

I was able to find out quite a few things that my box is capable of doing from that area of the forum. It sure beats calling the cable company and dealing with their clueless CSR's and upper level techs. I wasted plenty of time talking to them and coming away without any answers to my questions. You can alsg go directly to Scientific Alanta's website and read about some of your 8300's capabilities and download user manuals as well.

I changed that to "pass through" which will pass the native resolution of the source along to the display, letting the 4805 do the 480i work on SD, etc. I had to leave, but left instructions with him for going into the initial setup menu and disabling 1080i...

FWIW. I've always had the SA8300HD set to "pass through" and both 1080i and 720p enabled (as well as 480i). I have the rolling bars still.

Also, for me, the problem is the worst when outputing 720p through Xbox. I watch quite a bit of HD channels via SA8300HD, but the rolling bars are actually pretty rare in this case.

The fact that I can get rid of it by physically unplugging and replugging the component video cable (or, for others, by switching among different signal types - 480i/720p/1080i - on the same input) does still make me a bit suspicious of 4805's analog signal processing.

Interesting story-

I was at my brother-in-law's yesterday, and he is running a 4805 with a 110" dazian screen in a dedicated room, has the Snazio network dvd player, and a SA 8300 HD DVR (like me).

On any cable channel, his rolling bars were so bad that he was getting diagonal moire patterns in addition to the bars that were scrolling up and down. It almost looked like someone was tapping a corner of the screen and causing waves diagonally back and forth.

We've had a little discussion here (well sometimes a lot) about these bars (they're really narrow, fast moving) and whether they were some kind of ground loop or RF hash, or whatever, and some people have mentioned they were worse for them in 1080i.

So, I checked the setup on his SA box, and it was set to "Upconvert 2", which upconverts every signal (SD and HD) to 1080i and then sends it to the display.

I changed that to "pass through" which will pass the native resolution of the source along to the display, letting the 4805 do the 480i work on SD, etc. I had to leave, but left instructions with him for going into the initial setup menu and disabling 1080i.

He called me last night. and was successful in changing how his box was set up. It will only send 480i to the pj for SD and for HD feeds it only sends 720p, so if the channel is native 720p it passes it through, and 1080i feeds are downconverted by the box to 720p and then sent to the pj. He told me his bars are gone. All of them.

I'll check with him today and see if there's been any change, but I think we're on to something. These bars occur only over component, and are the worst at 1080i. Either there's some sort of signal problem over the component run (even though I have very good cables) or the 4805 has some sort of sync problem with 1080i over component that shows itself in these fast and faint rolling bars.

See what you think. I'm going to disable 1080i on my box today and see. It's a bummer we would need to do that, but I would rather have a downconverted stable image without the moving bars. . .

Wes

My 8300 passes thru the native resolution (even 1080i) and I have never seen a rolling bar.
No issues with mine what so ever.

My 8300 passes thru the native resolution (even 1080i) and I have never seen a rolling bar.
No issues with mine what so ever.

DVI or component?

I've got new A/C runs to my home theater and my cable ground has been checked. It's not a ground loop.

Could be some other interference, but why a problem at 1080i and not 720p?

Wes,

I have sneaking suspicion that these rolling bars must have something to do with how your cable company connects into your home and is not an inherent problem with the SA8300. I have the SA8300 and have never had any problems with it in regards to rolling bars, no matter which way I have it set to output a signal.

I currently have the box set up to pass-through the signal over component cables. The box outputs a 480i signal for channels 1-99. All the rest of the channels from 100-999 come through in 1080i except the HD feeds of Fox, ABC, ESPN and the NFL channel. They come through in 720P.

My cable company is Adelphia and their SA8300HD DVR's have an HDMI port and use the SARA Passport software. With this version of software, you even have the capability to hook up a 400GB external drive and really increase the storage capacity of your DVR. I'm not sure if you have looked into the DVR threads yet but there is a ton of info over there.

I was able to find out quite a few things that my box is capable of doing from that area of the forum. It sure beats calling the cable company and dealing with their clueless CSR's and upper level techs. I wasted plenty of time talking to them and coming away without any answers to my questions. You can alsg go directly to Scientific Alanta's website and read about some of your 8300's capabilities and download user manuals as well.

Thanks for the info, but I know all about the box itself, been following all the threads on the 8300 since it was released.

What I can't figure out is why the rolling bars, and why the difference between 720p and 1080i?

Also, when I had my Zenith 318 dvd player hooked up over component with 1080i I had rolling bars as well, so it's not an 8300 thing, it's a 4805 thing or my particular setup, which I'm running out of things to check. . .

Wes

I wrote a Bravo D1 How To for the cap replacement. I sent it to CAVU for review. Once he gets back to me and makes sure everything is ok , Ill post it/ make it availible. The total time it took me to do the mod, including take pictures, was something like 10-15 minutes. Its not hard. If anyone is being put off of jumping on the D1 bandwagon by the modification, it really isnt that bad.

DVI or component?

I've got new A/C runs to my home theater and my cable ground has been checked. It's not a ground loop.

Could be some other interference, but why a problem at 1080i and not 720p?
Since you asked DVI or component, do you have an older 8300 with a DVI output? Mine has an HDMI connection. I haven't tried it out though and can't say how the image looks over it. Sorry.

I wrote a Bravo D1 How To for the cap replacement. I sent it to CAVU for review. Once he gets back to me and makes sure everything is ok , Ill post it/ make it availible. The total time it took me to do the mod, including take pictures, was something like 10-15 minutes. Its not hard. If anyone is being put off of jumping on the D1 bandwagon by the modification, it really isnt that bad.Looking forward to seeing it. ;)

I'm thinking about getting the Avia calibration disc for my projector (sounds like DVE is both too complex and cumbersome for my tastes). Has anybody used Avia for their SP4805? Did you get good results? Thanks! :confused:

Has anyone heard of this: DISCWASHER 1509 Home Theater Calibration Disc, I found it on Amazon...

Since you asked DVI or component, do you have an older 8300 with a DVI output? Mine has an HDMI connection. I haven't tried it out though and can't say how the image looks over it. Sorry.

You're right- HDMI connection. . . haven't used it in a while, so forgot I have a HDMI/DVI adapter sitting around somewhere behind the equipment. . .

Wes

I'm thinking about getting the Avia calibration disc for my projector (sounds like DVE is both too complex and cumbersome for my tastes). Has anybody used Avia for their SP4805? Did you get good results? Thanks! :confused:

Has anyone heard of this: DISCWASHER 1509 Home Theater Calibration Disc, I found it on Amazon...


You should go to the Calibration forum and Look for "New Calibration Disk" A guy by the name of Get Grey and put it together. It has better color then Avia Pro and is a lot easier to use! You can buy it for 25$ but you do have to burn it to DVD. I love it. You will have to buy a blue filter but he tells what to get.... really a great buy.

I'm no HTPC expert by anymeans...hell I don't even have one. But, I do know that with the setup you mentioned you wouldn't be able to pixel map to your 4805. Which IMHO, defeats the purpose of even having a HTPC.

At the very least, you'd need a pc with with a video card that has DVI out, POWERSTRIP, and a decent dvd playback software.

DeerHunter,

Though I did not mention of DVI out and powerstrip in the HTPC, it's there. Without which HTPC has no meaning.

What I was talking about was except for the extra 3 (or 1440) whether there will be any advantage.

Having said that, I have ordered my D1 already.

What is everybodys gut feeling on the build quality of the new Infocus PJ's. The SP4805 had a 2 year warranty, I think Infocus knew it was reliable. The new IN72 has just 1 year warranty, this could be looked at 2 ways, 1: they want to make money on repairs after 1 year as opposed to 2 in order to make up money in a more competitive market, or 2: it could be looked at as they don't want to eat the repair cost beyond 1 year because they know it's quality represents what they could build it for and still sell it in todays more competitive market. In the next 7 days I'm buying but I'm stuck between a used SP4805 or a new IN72. When you factor in the fact that the IN72 will be Brand NEW, along with a few improvements I feel like I'm only paying $200 more for the IN72(if I get it for $999 at $1,099 probably makes it a no deal, still waiting on AVS powerbuy info), but if the IN72 has cheaper parts ie the 1 year warranty then it doesn't look like it's worth the $400 more than a decent but not new SP4805. Pulling my hair out. david

not sure if anyone was in the market for a 32" LCD tv, but IC newegg is throwing in a D1 with the purchase of a particular one, but I think we are all happy with the 4805 to be looking at any other display :)

Did anybody have any suggestions for this guy. I'm curious what it was.

That "blob" you're seeing on the lense is an iris that is suppose to be there. Does the shadow you're seeing on the left side of the screen have an amber or yellowish hue to it? If so, you have the dreaded defect in the folding mirror which is a light tubed directing light from the lamp to the dlp chip. Over time the heat causes the glued mirrors of the light tube to shift slightly. I had this problem and sent it back for warranty repair. Someone said they are using a better engineered replacement. I hope so.

I notice that most people use a 720p setting to their 4805's with the XBOX 360. When i try the same with mine the screen goes insanely fuzzy and switches back to 480p. In the projector settings itself it says its getting a 480i signal. What the heck am i missin here? Hehe any info would be helpful:)

Ok.... im a fool.. lol. I guess i should look closer at the 360 before i jack around with it lol. Didnt notice the HDTV switch on the cable itself..... DOHHH ;-)

DeerHunter,

Though I did not mention of DVI out and powerstrip in the HTPC, it's there. Without which HTPC has no meaning.

What I was talking about was except for the extra 3 (or 1440) whether there will be any advantage.

Having said that, I have ordered my D1 already.

Aaranddeeman,

Good for you buddy on the purchase of the D1! You won't be disappointed. As I stated previously, "for the money...the image can't be beat." You may be able to get more tweakability from a tricked out HTPC, but I'm willing to bet that the differnce in the image quality of the D1 vs. an HTPC is minimal. They just seem to go hand-in-hand.

After having gotten your D1, you still feel compelled to build an HTPC, you're definitely going to need something faster than 500mhz cpu. I seem to remember that POWERSTRIP or FFDSHOW requires a pc with a little zip. Otherwise, all of your tweaking will be in vain as your system bogs down.

Finally! Here is a screen shoot for all you D1 Fence sitters


http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e294/ensign1963/IMG_0039.jpg (http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e294/ensign1963/IMG_0039.jpg)

homer1963,

Nice screenshot. Did you do the cap replacement? I see you live in Roy, so if you did, maybe you'd be willing to help me do mine if I drive it up from SLC? I'd buy you a beer if you did! :)

homer1963,

Nice screenshot. Did you do the cap replacement? I see you live in Roy, so if you did, maybe you'd be willing to help me do mine if I drive it up from SLC? I'd buy you a beer if you did! :)

Yes I live in Roy and I would be happy to do it for you .I'll take a Mountain Dew!
PM me and we can setup a time.

Here are a couple more, not quite as happy with thease:


http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e294/ensign1963/IMG_0041.jpg (http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e294/ensign1963/IMG_0041.jpg)

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e294/ensign1963/IMG_0040.jpg (http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e294/ensign1963/IMG_0040.jpg)

You wont be sorry we promise :D :D :D

Try Ratshacks that are not in malls(All they seem to have is RC cars and Cell Phones). the stand alone stores carry more inventory. Part number is 272-1032.

Good hunting
Went to my local Ratshack today, and they had the cap! It was in one of those slide-out drawers. Picked that up with some new braid and solder. Good to go!

I am considering building a HTPC (to use with my 4805) but I wanted to save my DVI port for an HDMI adapter when some next gen stuff comes out. If I use S-Video how much worse would the image be? I have heard of something called a scaler, would that help the resolution any?

Any input it appriciated. Thanks.

I am considering building a HTPC (to use with my 4805) but I wanted to save my DVI port for an HDMI adapter when some next gen stuff comes out. If I use S-Video how much worse would the image be? I have heard of something called a scaler, would that help the resolution any?

Any input it appriciated. Thanks.

Don't waste your time S-video is just a slightly better version of composite and would not allow you to have 1-1 pixel mapping. You must use a DVI output to achieve this with a HTPC. What next generation stuff are you referring to? There are some programs designed to inprove SD TV signals through a PC, that may be what scaler is. At the very least I would run DVD's through the component input of the 4805.

I am considering building a HTPC (to use with my 4805) but I wanted to save my DVI port for an HDMI adapter when some next gen stuff comes out. If I use S-Video how much worse would the image be? I have heard of something called a scaler, would that help the resolution any?

Any input it appriciated. Thanks.

Running an HTPC over s-video will not be worth the troulbe. You can run it to the DVI port with a DVI cable and then a DVI-M1 adapter. Then, later on down the road when you acquire 'next gen' equipment with HDMI you can also buy a DVI switch and run an HDMI-DVI cable to the switch as well as your old DVI cable. Then the DVI-M1 from the switch to the projector.

Well I bought a SP4805 with 900 hours on it. I just can't see spending 1k plus for a 480p dlp when butloads of 720p'a are in the 1.5k range and a lot are sure to approch way less than that in the next 12-24 months. I got a steal on the D1 and a steal on the SP4805 and Gamestop is selling DVD at 3 for $6.50. Win/Win/Win for me for now.

I've read that you must replace the bad cap in the D1. I've also read that you need to orientate the new cap in the same orientation of the old cap.

Is the dark blue stripe on the side of the cap how you tell its orientation? The only similarity between the bad cap and its replacement is that dark blue stripe down the side.

I replaced the bad cap and put the new cap with the dark blue stripe in the same orientation. Is that right?

I guess if it isn't, the thing won't play right? It does play fine so I must have got it in there right.

My first soldering 'job'. Getting the bad cap out was a bit of a pain but getting the new one in was a piece of cake, as long as I orientated it correctly that is.

I am able to see the menu on the D1 with the macrovision on/off selection, does that mean I do have the latest firmware? Is there a way to check and 'see' which version of the firmware I do have? Also, I had macrovision turned on, which was the default, but the player would not upconvert to 1080i over component, should macrovision be turned off to allow that? My IN72 shows up on Tuesday. I have nothing with a DVI input right now so I guess I can't input the special settings for pixel mapping on the IN72, correct?

Thanks for all the help,
George -bub

I've read that you must replace the bad cap in the D1. I've also read that you need to orientate the new cap in the same orientation of the old cap.

Is the dark blue stripe on the side of the cap how you tell its orientation? The only similarity between the bad cap and its replacement is that dark blue stripe down the side.

I replaced the bad cap and put the new cap with the dark blue stripe in the same orientation. Is that right?

I guess if it isn't, the thing won't play right? It does play fine so I must have got it in there right.

My first soldering 'job'. Getting the bad cap out was a bit of a pain but getting the new one in was a piece of cake, as long as I orientated it correctly that is.

I am able to see the menu on the D1 with the macrovision on/off selection, does that mean I do have the latest firmware? Is there a way to check and 'see' which version of the firmware I do have? Also, I had macrovision turned on, which was the default, but the player would not upconvert to 1080i over component, should macrovision be turned off to allow that? My IN72 shows up on Tuesday. I have nothing with a DVI input right now so I guess I can't input the special settings for pixel mapping on the IN72, correct?

Thanks for all the help,
George -bub

You're all set, and yes you can't use the custom DVI settings yet if you don't have anything with DVI input!

Sounds like you're good to go, great job!

Enjoy your pj when it shows up-

Wes

yeah , the cap orientation needs to be maintained. It sounds like you got it , but in the future:

The side of the capacitor with the black stripe down the side ( colors can vary, but this is a description of the RATSHACK replacement cap) indicates the negative side. If I remember it correctly, the circuit board has markings indicating which lead should go where. Once you remove the old cap , you can see the markings on the board. The negative side of the old cap is closer to the adjacent row of capacitors. You can see on the board itself there is a "slashed" hemisphere printed on the board, indicating the side for the negative lead. There is another hemisphere that is not slashed, this is the side for the positive lead of the cap. You can look at the picutre in the post below to see the board. Ill post my how to soon

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/mprover/5.jpg

the red arrow indicates the hole where the negative lead should be placed

Nice detailed informative pic. Doing mine on Wednesday

Yep fellas, guess I got it right. Nice pic of your board, mine had a bunch of brownish/clear gunk at the base of the bad cap. Does that mean the capacitor leaked and my D1 was used? I only turned it on for maybe 2 minutes while I checked to see if I had the latest firmware.

I haven't played a DVD yet but I did stick a DVD in and watched a couple of scenes.

Thanks again for the help,
George -bub

I think they coat alot of the components in some type of adhesive. Mine had gunk on it, I just removed it and discarded it. I doubt youll do any harm by using the player, I used mine for a couple of days before doing the mod. Again, Ill post my entire how to in a bit. Does anyone have any recomendations as to where to host a 3mb word document?

Hi.... Was wondering if someone could help with a search I've been trying to do. I'm trying to search to see if anyone has replaced their own 4805 color wheel and what might have been said on the matter. Every time I do a search it brings up almost every post in the thread. I've tried.... color wheel replacement.....color+wheel+replacement......color wheel.....color wheel replace......color+wheel+replace.......etc..... I must be doing something wrong. Any help would be appreciated.....Thanks :confused:

I've noticed rolling bars on my SA3250HD box. It's very faint and barely noticeable. It's not really noticeable enough to concern me. I should check though if the bars are more apparent at 1080i or 720p.

Hi.... Was wondering if someone could help with a search I've been trying to do. I'm trying to search to see if anyone has replaced their own 4805 color wheel and what might have been said on the matter. Every time I do a search it brings up almost every post in the thread. I've tried.... color wheel replacement.....color+wheel+replacement......color wheel.....color wheel replace......color+wheel+replace.......etc..... I must be doing something wrong. Any help would be appreciated.....Thanks

There isn't a "standard" color wheel that you can get to replace between projectors, as every manufacturer creates their own color wheel and optimize their projectors to use their wheel. If you want to replace your color wheel you will most likely need to do it through Infocus.

Replaced the capacitor in my D1 that arrived a few days ago. I needed to replace the cap right away, since most DVD's skipped without the modification. It's just a guess, but the "brown gunk" looks to be glue that holds the capacitor in place before soldering. The modification is incredibly easy, I've never soldered anything in my life, and found it to be very straight forward.

The good news is that the picture is fantastic! I have input the custom resolutions and am running at 48hz. I have not tried 60 or 72 yet for a comparison.

I would recommend this player to anyone that wants the best pq regardless of price for a 4805. Grab one before they disappear.

I've noticed rolling bars on my SA3250HD box. It's very faint and barely noticeable. It's not really noticeable enough to concern me. I should check though if the bars are more apparent at 1080i or 720p.

Welcome to the "club". It seems we can't be sure why some of us are getting this and some aren't. . .

Do check between 1080i and 720p and let us know if there's any difference.

Yes, it is very faint, but takes away from that rock solid HD image that's so nice. . .

Wes

For those of you replacing the cap on the D1 and have no soldering experience, you can do a google search on "how to solder". There are some helpful tips. I tried to post a url but don't have 5 posts yet.

What is everybodys gut feeling on the build quality of the new Infocus PJ's. The SP4805 had a 2 year warranty, I think Infocus knew it was reliable. The new IN72 has just 1 year warranty, this could be looked at 2 ways, 1: they want to make money on repairs after 1 year as opposed to 2 in order to make up money in a more competitive market, or 2: it could be looked at as they don't want to eat the repair cost beyond 1 year because they know it's quality represents what they could build it for and still sell it in todays more competitive market. In the next 7 days I'm buying but I'm stuck between a used SP4805 or a new IN72. When you factor in the fact that the IN72 will be Brand NEW, along with a few improvements I feel like I'm only paying $200 more for the IN72(if I get it for $999 at $1,099 probably makes it a no deal, still waiting on AVS powerbuy info), but if the IN72 has cheaper parts ie the 1 year warranty then it doesn't look like it's worth the $400 more than a decent but not new SP4805. Pulling my hair out. david

I think it is case #1 - as factory warranty extensions are available if you want to insure against future repairs. The new platform is designed to be more reliable as far as fan, filters, and wheels go. The EX models (IN74EX) sold to local dealers get 2yrs warranty.

its an easy solder. The hardest part is getting the old cap off. Removing all solder without toasting the circuit board traces is key. Its pretty hard to screw up , but the danger of toasting a trace/lifting a solder pad is still there. I would HIGHLY recomend splugring the $4 for a solder braid at rat shack. To remove solder, place the wick on top of the solder joint at the bottom of the board, and heat the braid. The braid will suck up the solder. The braid will become saturated as you suck up solder, so I would recomend cutting the end off every so often so you have fresh braid.

There isn't a "standard" color wheel that you can get to replace between projectors, as every manufacturer creates their own color wheel and optimize their projectors to use their wheel. If you want to replace your color wheel you will most likely need to do it through Infocus.

Thanks for answering.....I realize that it has to be a infocus 4805 color wheel probably from infocus. I've read all the threads in the 2nd 4805 thread and dont rem if anyone had changed it themself or if its something that infocus has to do. I picked up a used 4805 for my brother-in-law for his birthday,as I know he could never afford one and he just loves mine, and it turns out where the color wheel is making a high pitch whining noise. I removed the top cover and it didn't apear to be to hard to get at but don't know if there is some special timing that has to be performed that only infocus tech can perform. If so have you ever heard approx. how much it costs? Again thanks for replying.....new to the forums....but love the reading :D

this hasnt been reviewed by anyone, so use at your own risk. Im not responsible if you house your equipment and/or kill yourself .


Capacitor Replacement Word Doc (http://www.geocities.com/mprover/capreplacement.doc)

For those new to soldering - remember there is a hot part and cold part to a soldering gun. It gets hot enough to melt solder - experienced solderers already know what burnt flesh smells and feels like - but sometimes that is what it takes to learn what the hot and cold parts are....

What type and wattage soldering gun is everyone using on this? My gf bought me a Coleman "Cold Heat" unit a while back, but I don't trust it for something this important, particularly because of the arcing issue and the lack of precision. It works great on other things, but...

I saw a 30 watt gun at RatShack for $7. Will that one be good enough or do I need the 100 watt super-deluxe, dual hot special that runs about 30? The choices are here:

http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=soldering%20gun

I used a 20 watt iron, and Id stay away from guns. Id think the 100 watt iron might be an overkill. Higher wattage guns for soldering of circuitry increase the risk of toasing your board (although youd REALLY have to try to toast the D1 board) . Id say anything over 15watts is fine, as long as you have a fine tip point. Alot of the guns have points for soldering much larger components. I used to own the RATSHACK 15W/30W dual soldering iron. It worked well for about a month, then crapped out. Im using a 20 watt weller, it was $17, but I think its great. The Coleman might be fine , I took a look at a review of the unit here (http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/6151688/) , and I think it should be alright. Id say give it a try, and make sure you use sold desoldering braid, before you go out and make another purchase.

What type and wattage soldering gun is everyone using on this? My gf bought me a Coleman "Cold Heat" unit a while back, but I don't trust it for something this important, particularly because of the arcing issue and the lack of precision. It works great on other things, but...

I saw a 30 watt gun at RatShack for $7. Will that one be good enough or do I need the 100 watt super-deluxe, dual hot special that runs about 30?

I used a 15 watt Radio Shack iron for doing mine. I prefer a lower wattage so as not to damage sensitive electronics. A 30 watt should be fine for this project. I suggest you do a google search on how to solder. You can get a poor or cold joint if you do not solder properly. Good luck!

this hasnt been reviewed by anyone, so use at your own risk. Im not responsible if you house your equipment and/or kill yourself .


Capacitor Replacement Word Doc (http://www.geocities.com/mprover/capreplacement.doc)
"The GeoCities web site you were trying to view has temporarily exceeded its data transfer limit. Please try again later."

Can you host it anywhere else?

You can right-click the hyperlink and select 'Save As'

It seems that we need a Bravo D1 tweak thread.

if you pm me with your email, Ill email it to you . Sorry about the site. I have a webserver, but its in pieces on my floor due to hard drive failures. Convinient...

I've noticed rolling bars on my SA3250HD box. It's very faint and barely noticeable. It's not really noticeable enough to concern me. I should check though if the bars are more apparent at 1080i or 720p.

What kind of rolling bars? Are these the many thin ones that roll up and or down very quickly?

It seems that we need a Bravo D1 tweak thread.

Well, there are lots of 4805 owners that are moving to the Bravo, so there's a lot of traffic.

That said, I totally see your point. D1 folks, if you have a question, please look at the last 6 or so pages first, as a lot of questions are getting asked over and over again. If you can't find your answer, feel free to PM me, or Cavu, or mprover, etc., and we'll try to point you in the right direction.

Thanks for being patient, non D1 folks. . .

alright now i'm pissed.... I just got beat in a bidding war on ebay by jkl6013! eeerrrr I want that D1! I wonder if you're on here. Well if you are best wishes.

alright now i'm pissed.... I just got beat in a bidding war on ebay by jkl6013! eeerrrr I want that D1! I wonder if you're on here. Well if you are best wishes.

I don't know how much they are going for on ebay but you can easily find the D1 at newegg and ubid for a very reasonable price.

I don't know how much they are going for on ebay but you can easily find the D1 at newegg and ubid for a very reasonable price.

Lets say it was 2/3 the price of Ubid. Looks like that's what I'm going to do. It was used on ebay, but had a new loader. I didn't care about it being used or about the loader because it still needed the cap done.

i had my eye on that one too, but decided when I get one it would be from one of the "big 3" retailers listed previously.

Ha ha, I was watching it too, but once it went over $40, I decided against it. Usually, if it's over 30%-40% of retail, I pass. There are some good puchases I've made though. Panny DMR-E80H for $22, , DMR-E100H for $39, DMR-E55 for $10, JVC HR-S9900U for $28, Epson S1 for $80, plus lots of other things at 5-20% of retail...all still working great. :)

To determine what Firmware you have is it under:

Software Version
Boot Version
OEM Version

My unit says Software Version 1.2.1
Boot Version 1.3
OEM Version 1.2

It's the software version right, so I should update to the latest.

Well I got my unit from newegg, obvious return (fuss loader, new firmware). Had watched a few movies. DVD's appeared to play okay (fifth element took a few times loading to work) but dvd+r seemed to have a few problems that my samsung 841 and pioneer 525 played right through. DVD +RW no go at all.

Did the cap replacement (easy 10 minute piece of work). Have not played too much with it but it does seem to load faster (could be my imagination) but still stumbles at the same place on a dvd+R.

Would swapping out loader with one of my liton burners fix these problems?

Well I got my unit from newegg, obvious return (fuss loader, new firmware). Had watched a few movies. DVD's appeared to play okay (fifth element took a few times loading to work) but dvd+r seemed to have a few problems that my samsung 841 and pioneer 525 played right through. DVD +RW no go at all.

Did the cap replacement (easy 10 minute piece of work). Have not played too much with it but it does seem to load faster (could be my imagination) but still stumbles at the same place on a dvd+R.

Would swapping out loader with one of my liton burners fix these problems?I sure hope the D1 plays DVD+R, I have over 200 of them recorded on DVD+R. :o

my DVD-Rs work fine. Ill have to get ahold of some DVD+Rs to try the player out. I was planning on going DVD+R DL this summer

NOOOO! Say it isn't so. When is +R going to give up the ghost already? :mad:

haha, Id go DVD-R DL , but I believe the blanks are more expensive. Ive used DVD-R for 3-4 years

Did the cap replacement (easy 10 minute piece of work). Have not played too much with it but it does seem to load faster (could be my imagination) but still stumbles at the same place on a dvd+R.
Would swapping out loader with one of my liton burners fix these problems?
Definitely.....
iam using LiteOn 167T & LiteOn 16P9S in my Bravo/Momitsu
much faster Loading/Track seeks/Buffering
NO skips/stumbles/freezes

Plays everything......commercialDVD DVD+-R DVD+DL

haha, Id go DVD-R DL , but I believe the blanks are more expensive. Ive used DVD-R for 3-4 years

The blank prices will come down. I only use DVD-R as it's the more "legitimate" format and overall more compatable with most players. I've found that DVDShrink 3.2 (set for the long time anal & redux at extra-sharp) can get most movies on a DVD-5 without too much degradation at all. (main movie only - all unneeded tracks removed too)

-W

Definitely.....
iam using LiteOn 167T & LiteOn 16P9S in my Bravo/Momitsu
much faster Loading/Track seeks/Buffering
NO skips/stumbles/freezes

Plays everything......commercialDVD DVD+-R DVD+DL

Do those just drop right in?, you have to set the region on them right? are you able to keep the appearance of the D1 looking the same or does the new loader remove the door of loader DVD cover/panel of the D1. At $23 to my door I might just upgrade it to although it probably doesn't need it with regular DVDs.

http://www.clubit.com/product_detail.cfm?itemno=A1546927&cmp=OTC-fr00g13

Do those just drop right in?, you have to set the region on them right? are you able to keep the appearance of the D1 looking the same or does the new loader remove the door of loader DVD cover/panel of the D1. At $23 to my door I might just upgrade it to although it probably doesn't need it with regular DVDs.

http://www.clubit.com/product_detail.cfm?itemno=A1546927&cmp=OTC-fr00g13I would be interested in this also. :)

Do those just drop right in?, you have to set the region on them right? are you able to keep the appearance of the D1 looking the same or does the new loader remove the door of loader DVD cover/panel of the D1. At $23 to my door I might just upgrade it to although it probably doesn't need it with regular DVDs.

http://www.clubit.com/product_detail.cfm?itemno=A1546927&cmp=OTC-fr00g13

If one must have to replace the loader in D1, will a loader from old DVD player (like Philips, JVC) work ?

If one must have to replace the loader in D1, will a loader from old DVD player (like Philips, JVC) work ?

Or how about a drive from a DVD recorder? (I have a working JVC one that I pulled from a "loading bug" unit.)

here's an old link to hack in a new loader.
http://www.gray.mb.ca/D1-hack.html

Will someone please start a new Bravo owners thread.

D1 woes. Plopped in a new DVD-R , and about 4 minutes into the movie, it started stalling out. I had to resort to hooking up my old player, the DVD-R is now working fine. It definatley doenst look as good. Is this a loader problem ?

I created a specific thread for the 4805 and Bravo D1 here:
Specific 4805 and Bravo D1 thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7380402#post7380402)

That "blob" you're seeing on the lense is an iris that is suppose to be there. Does the shadow you're seeing on the left side of the screen have an amber or yellowish hue to it? If so, you have the dreaded defect in the folding mirror which is a light tubed directing light from the lamp to the dlp chip. Over time the heat causes the glued mirrors of the light tube to shift slightly. I had this problem and sent it back for warranty repair. Someone said they are using a better engineered replacement. I hope so.

Yeah it does have a yellowish/amber hue to it. Guess I'll have to see if my warranty is up.

Deleted.

Thanks for starting the new Bravo/4805 thread Nate. I have the OPPO DVD player and might look at the Bravo someday for fun, and if I do, it'll be good to go to that thread rather than ask newbie type questions here.

Cavu,

all D1 cap needs to be replace or theres just certain batch that has bad caps? if i dont change the cap, is it guaranteed that the D1 will stop working? just curious since i dont trust myself changing the cap. i may end up having a $100 paperwieght. unless somebody around San Jose CA can help me :)


I live in the South Fremont/Mission area and I could help you with the Cap replacement.

It seems be an easy replacement, I've done quite a lot of tinkering and electronics projects and am an EE. I can't guarantee you anything ofcourse, since the labor is free!

Edit: meant to PM , but seems to have done a post.. oh, well..

Brovo Specs

VIZIO Bravo D1 DVD Player with DVI output - Retail

Audio: Analog audio outputs: 2 L/R pair (RCA) Digital audio output: 1 coax (RCA), optical (TosLink)
Dimensions & Weight: 16.9" x 2.6" x 12.2" / 5.5 lbs.
DVD Changer: 1-Disc
Manufacturer Warranty: Warranty is provided through manufacturer only
Playback Formats: DVD-Video, DVD-R, CD, MP3 CD, VCD/SVCD, CD-R/RW File formats: MPEG-1, MPEG-2, MPEG-4, JPEG, DivX
Type: DVD Player
Video: Digital video output: DVI-D without HDCP Analog video outputs: 1 component (Y-Pb-Pr), 1 S-video, 1 composite

Model #: Bravo D1