Brovo Specs

VIZIO Bravo D1 DVD Player with DVI output - Retail

Audio: Analog audio outputs: 2 L/R pair (RCA) Digital audio output: 1 coax (RCA), optical (TosLink)
Dimensions & Weight: 16.9" x 2.6" x 12.2" / 5.5 lbs.
DVD Changer: 1-Disc
Manufacturer Warranty: Warranty is provided through manufacturer only
Playback Formats: DVD-Video, DVD-R, CD, MP3 CD, VCD/SVCD, CD-R/RW File formats: MPEG-1, MPEG-2, MPEG-4, JPEG, DivX
Type: DVD Player
Video: Digital video output: DVI-D without HDCP Analog video outputs: 1 component (Y-Pb-Pr), 1 S-video, 1 composite

Model #: Bravo D1

*cough* why did you post that?

*cough* why did you post that?

yea, I was scratching my head too......then I realized he was just like me, Sometimes we just want to be heard.

got my curiosity too :)

Brovo Specs

VIZIO Bravo D1 DVD Player with DVI output - Retail

Audio: Analog audio outputs: 2 L/R pair (RCA) Digital audio output: 1 coax (RCA), optical (TosLink)
Dimensions & Weight: 16.9" x 2.6" x 12.2" / 5.5 lbs.
DVD Changer: 1-Disc
Manufacturer Warranty: Warranty is provided through manufacturer only
Playback Formats: DVD-Video, DVD-R, CD, MP3 CD, VCD/SVCD, CD-R/RW File formats: MPEG-1, MPEG-2, MPEG-4, JPEG, DivX
Type: DVD Player
Video: Digital video output: DVI-D without HDCP Analog video outputs: 1 component (Y-Pb-Pr), 1 S-video, 1 composite

Model #: Bravo D1

Aaaannnnnnd???

Probably regarding the warranty which is *NOT* provided by the manufacturer. Well, I guess it depends on who the "manufacturer" is considered to be. Certainly Vizio will not be doing it.

Probably regarding the warranty which is *NOT* provided by the manufacturer. Well, I guess it depends on who the "manufacturer" is considered to be. Certainly Vizio will not be doing it.

For all (new) D1 owners,

Kxddigital confirmed on email today that they will provide a warranty support for all these new D1s for 1 year.

ok now you guys...move on over to the other thread...I'm sure there are people that need to get back on here and figure out the proper way to turn off the PJ :p

For all (new) D1 owners,

Kxddigital confirmed on email today that they will provide a warranty support for all these new D1s for 1 year.

I might be going out on a limb here but here goes... It would be my guess that opening up the D1, desoldering a capacitor and soldering on a replacment with different numbers, in the opinion of Kxddigital at the very least, is going to void any and all warranties.

Just my opinion. I thought I was wrong once but I was mistaken. And, always remember this... When you get right down to it, there it is.

George -bub

ok now you guys...move on over to the other thread...I'm sure there are people that need to get back on here and figure out the proper way to turn off the PJ :p

Therein lies the problem- we need to move the D1 stuff over out of this thread.

*But* once that happens, there is nothing at all going on in this thread!

Come on, guys, fix my rolling bars problem! Let's go, Japhule, you've got it, too, fix it! It's got to be some issue with the component cables carrying some interference or something!

OK, now we have a new purpose. Just for all of your peace of mind, though, I haven't replaced the capacitor on my D1 yet.

Wes

For all (new) D1 owners,

Kxddigital confirmed on email today that they will provide a warranty support for all these new D1s for 1 year.Being that I was the first one to get a bad D1 from UBID and now having to deal with Astar/KXD all I can say is good luck...their support dept is absolutely terrible so far. Beware!!! UBID is now stepping in to the rescue...To be continued.

Kxddigital confirmed on email today that they will provide a warranty support for all these new D1s for 1 year.their support dept is absolutely terrible so farWhen I mentioned KXD Technology last Thursday, I suggested that you try and deal with Luis at (626) 851-2528 Ext. 112

When I mentioned KXD Technology last Thursday, I suggested that you try and deal with Luis at (626) 851-2528 Ext. 112That's who we are dealing with now...we had to go through 3 other people first...Luis is very slow resolving this issue...will contact him again tomorrow. In the meantime I ordered another D1 but this time from newegg. I will give one to my son for his DLP 1080p rear projection TV. :)

didn't someone (flatlander_1966) mentioned that they got a used one from newegg (which claims that the D1s are new). It never ends, but at least it should work or they will exchange it whereas I don't believe Ubid will do that. Newegg and Chiefvalue may be the two safe bets here.

I thought someone had mentioned that Infocus were out of 4805 refurbs on their site, however one of the major online retailers have some refurbs.

Therein lies the problem- we need to move the D1 stuff over out of this thread.

*But* once that happens, there is nothing at all going on in this thread!

Come on, guys, fix my rolling bars problem! Let's go, Japhule, you've got it, too, fix it! It's got to be some issue with the component cables carrying some interference or something!

OK, now we have a new purpose. Just for all of your peace of mind, though, I haven't replaced the capacitor on my D1 yet.

Wes

I am all about fixing the rolling bars!

Oddly I sent an RMA request to IF to have my rolling bars and other issues looked at, and as soon as I got the auth it has stopped happening... still sending it in in a few days though.

It appears that there are a few more 4805's on the infocus ebay site. I just bought one last week from there and it should be here Thursday. I also ordered a D1 from Ubid as well. It should be here next week sometime I suppose.

I had a demo model HP XB31 that I borrowed from work which now has to go back due to my being laid off from my job. I was using that in my bedroom theater. I'm also currently using an LT150z in my main theater. So, now with the 4805 coming, it will be interesting to see if it will become my new main system or my replacement bedroom system.

I have been running my LT150z through my HTPC with very good results at a 1024x576 powerstrip resolution. No pixel mapping of course, since the NEC doesn't have a DVI port, but it still looks rather sharp, smooth and film like to me. Much better than any of my stand alone DVD players up to this point. They would include 2 Panasonics, the infamous RP-91 and the XP30, as well as a Pioneer 563. None of which could hold a candle to my HTPC. They all had problems with jaggies. I'm hoping the D1 being pixel mapped and all will not show the dreaded jaggies! It would be nice to not have to use the HTPC unless I wanted to play ripped movies from the hard drive.

So the comparison will be between the LT150z with a VGA 1024x576 resolution HTPC and the 4805 with a pixel mapped Bravo D1. It should be fun.

I do have to say though that I am in the bigger is better group in that my screen size is rather large at about 115" WIDE. My main theater is totally light controlled so even the relatively dim LT150z is pretty much bright enough for me. But of course a bit more brightness wouldn't be a bad thing. :) However I'm not to keen on SDE which, with the LT150z, it really doesn't bother me at my current seating distance of about 1.5x the screen widths. But I'm not so sure the 4805 will work out there or not. I can't wait to find out though. At the very least it will be good for my bedroom since the distance to the screen in there is about 2x. In both rooms I am using BO cloth for my screens. The bedroom screen is about 80" wide.

It will probably be a couple of weeks after I get everything together before I get it all set up and running. Looks like I'm going to be needing a cap for the D1. I have a DVI cable on order too so I should be all set. Right? Anything I'm missing?

Oh yeah, I do have HDTV tuners in both rooms as well so that will be part of the decision making process too.

Let the adventure begin.

Hi all, I got my refurbed 4805 last week, did a cheap eBay ceiling mount (worked great!) in my "home theatre" (converted basement room by painting black, adding carpet, and old couch/chair, added X10 dimmer switch and added to flush celing lights to dim). I built my own screen and painted it based on a forumla found on the DYI section (well, actually I "mixed" a few formulas).

Anyway. this is my first projector, this thread the the 4805 FAQ were very helpful. Thanks to everyone who put that info together.

So, what do I think ? After reading this forum for 2 monthes, and freaking out about RBE, screen door, sitting too close etc etc

WOW!!!! :eek: :D

I have the PJ about 12.5 to 13 feet back, the image out of the box without touching focus or zoom seems to be almost 80" wide, is that right? That's one thing I never understood about the infocus calc program, the min/max for a given distance. Anyway, Looks awesome, even from 7 feet away,, main sitting distance is 12 feet away, looks great. SDE or RBE don't seem to affect me ?? I notice very very faint SDE when 1 foot away...

Do I need to touch the focus? It seems great so I guess not, but maybe my opinion will change over time.

With some moderate ambient light, image looks fantastic! Good news for football season.

I am comparing the image to my 36" Wega (4 years old, non-HD) over component video (bought from monoprice, other tip from this forum) since I didn't get $$$ to buy an OPDV971H yet (although I bought the DVI and M1/DVI adapter already). The image out of the box is simply amazing!

I am thinking of these "Next steps" but have a few questions based on what I read here:

1) Buy OPDV971H , I am using a $40 walmart DVD player now, why is everyone talking about this "Bravo D1" ? I don't see that on the 4805 FAQ ? (could have missed it). Is there another player for $100 or less ? What about my PS2 ? Is that worth using as a DVD player? (I don't think the cable will reach but maybe longer ones exist somewhere?)

2) Buy Samsung HD OTA tuner (has DVI output), CiruitCity has them for $250, can they be found cheaper (monoprice is killer fyi) ? I need HD Football at 80" wide! (I know it won't be true HD, but if it looks as good as the DVD image, I'll be ecstatic!)

3) As soon as I powered on, I noticed dust on the lens and much more dust "flying" towards the lens! I want to put a plastic cover over the projector when not in use, and maybe get an Ionic breeze (or similar) to put in the room while using. Any smokers out there? I'm really worried about that, but basically I'm just trying to get this PJ to last 2 years, maybe 1.5 years before true HD PJ's come down in price. Will smoking while watching movies really kill the PJ that fast? Will regular cleaning help? I'm used to cleaning very expensive telescope optics/lens/mirrors, so I'm not worried about that aspect of maintenance.

Again, thanks all!

EDIT: One other question, I did not buy the extra 1 year warranty. If something happens after 90 days, can't I just ship it to Infocus and pay $$$ then and there for service? If so, do they charge alot ?

Do I need to touch the focus? It seems great so I guess not, but maybe my opinion will change over time.
You set up the PJ and have never touched the focus ring? How do you know that's it's perfectly focused?

However stunning you think the picture is now, if it's not in focus you're really going to be amazed when you dial it in!

why is everyone talking about this "Bravo D1

because it is the DVD player for the SP4805, save your brain power and just get it, Did anyone here steer you wrong on the image of the SP4805, right, so Just get the D1. :)

ChrisKen;
The 4805 has an intake and exhaust fan. Smoking in the theater room will only draw the smoke into the projector and coat the color wheel with nicotine. So much for your beautiful picture.
I'm a smoker too, and when the guys are over to watch some football we take it outside. No one minds. Small price to pay for a stunning looking football game on a 92" screen.
Put out the smokes and enjoy the movie :)

Will smoking while watching movies really kill the PJ that fast? Will regular cleaning help?

EDIT: One other question, I did not buy the extra 1 year warranty. If something happens after 90 days, can't I just ship it to Infocus and pay $$$ then and there for service? If so, do they charge alot ?


The extra year warranty (assuming you bought an authorized refurb sale) is going to be much cheaper than any repair - which are likely to be more than you paid for the refurb itself. But then if you could buy a two year warranty (you cannot) - it would have been likely as much as a new projector with a two year warranty.

Why is it smokers always worry about keeping their environment clean from their habit - without consideration of what it does to their lungs? Yes nicotine smoke kills projectors as well as lungs - anyone ever put one of these in a bar would learn that really fast (of course it gets combined with fry grease in a bar&grill). I like fries and I like beer - so your choice if you like the smokes.

I'm with you Kras, bring on the beer and fries! Damn, now I'm hungry.

What is the general consensus around here about what screen material is the best to use with the 4805 ? I'm looking at the DaLite models, specifically the Contour Electrol Tab tensioned...

What is the general consensus around here about what screen material is the best to use with the 4805 ? I'm looking at the DaLite models, specifically the Contour Electrol Tab tensioned...

DaLite HCWM.

Is the HCMW also know is "DA-MAT" ?

http://www.focusedtechnology.com/da-mat.html

No that is a slightly different product. DaLite Materials (http://www.da-lite.com/products/selecting.php?PHPSESSID=7497ce7b17e9846a95b78718f2d315f8)

I concure with the HCMW UNLESS you are going really large then you might consider one with more gain (at the expense of some contrast)

I am all about fixing the rolling bars!

Oddly I sent an RMA request to IF to have my rolling bars and other issues looked at, and as soon as I got the auth it has stopped happening... still sending it in in a few days though.

Next time they appear, grab yourself a handful of groundless adapter plugs (no third ground prong) and begin lifting the grounds from various components one at time. (Start with ANY computers in the vicinity, especially monitors). Sometimes this is a quick way to find the source and while someone will pipe in advising you to NEVER lift a ground for fear of death and destruction, it might help you locate the source.

Volts don't kill people...amps do. :eek:

has anyone had any luck yet finding a 4805 replacement bulb yet? i,m still looking for a spare and it seems that they are harder to find than the roswell fying saucer,somebody posted earlier that a X2 bulb would be sufficient, has anyone else tried this?.....

Do I need to touch the focus? It seems great so I guess not, but maybe my opinion will change over time.


I simply put up the 4805's onscreen display main menu (instead of an input signal) and focus that by eye. Look at the "x" in the word "exit". When every segment is sharp and clear you're there. Then, some people de-focus a bit, especially if they are seeing screen door but I keep mine razor sharp. Luckily I don't find it at all necessary to focus through a set of binoculars, like I did in my CRT days!!

Thanks for the link Brian...


has anyone had any luck yet finding a 4805 replacement bulb yet? i,m still looking for a spare and it seems that they are harder to find than the roswell fying saucer,somebody posted earlier that a X2 bulb would be sufficient, has anyone else tried this?.....

The InFocus site shows them now in stock...I assume online vendors have them now, too. I'm the one that guinea piged the X2 bulb and it hasn't caught on fire yet....I've put about 50hrs on it so far. Yesterday I removed it to check the lamp housing for any melting or overheating issue and there was none.

Thanks for the link Brian...




The InFocus site shows them now in stock...I assume online vendors have them now, too. I'm the one that guinea piged the X2 bulb and it hasn't caught on fire yet....I've put about 50hrs on it so far. Yesterday I removed it to check the lamp housing for any melting or overheating issue and there was none.


okay i,ll checkout some suppliers see if they are up to speed on replacements, if not i,ll certainly checkout the X2 bulb as a last resort, thanx for the update :)

p.s. the bonus for the X2 is that they are listed with some reputable dealers as 30-40 bucks cheaper than the 4805 bulb.....

So I went looking for those darn rolling bars again tonight...I only get them on 1080i feeds... and they are hard to see. I see none at 720p. I only notice the rolling bars (which vary in speed and direction) when it's against a light green-blue background (ie, my time warner guide). I also have my cable going through my tripp lite surge.

I tested my Oppo at 480p, 1920x540, 720p, and 1080i, no rolling bars that I can see. So it's something to do with the cable box or component connection at 1080i....

Does anyone know what could be the cause of a yellow-ish vertical line across the length of the right side of the screen be? Does this mean the bulb is starting to burn out or something? The projector has worked flawlessly for ~9 months.

p.s. the bonus for the X2 is that they are listed with some reputable dealers as 30-40 bucks cheaper than the 4805 bulb.....

What's the spec differences (if any) between the X2 bulb and the 4805 bulb?

-W (just wondering)

Ok off the D1 and back to HTPC again for an moment. When I tried the last 854x480 fiasco, I ended the session with a system restore that left me strange. I've been using straight 848x480 60hz for a couple months and I miss powerstrip etc etc. I really notice it on the credits.

So...... anyone remember what version of the Nvidia drivers worked flawlessly with a 5700 with Powerstrip @ 848x480 47.952 Hmmmmm??

-W

I thought that the latest nVida drivers have for a while allowed one to make custom resolutions. Dig around in advanced section and I think you can set resolutions to anything you like as long as you are within refresh specs of the pj. I could be wrong, but I set my desktop to 1024 x 576 @ 60hz Pal for an HT510 DLP, and it worked fine. That resolution could not be found under settings, but could be found under adavanced after I created it. There is even an advanced timing section for all the super duper know how guys that really know what their doing unlike myself. What I'm saying is you may not need PowerStrip.

Not with a 5700 - you need powerstrip to get a custom refresh rate. And you can't get the advanced tab on a 5700 with a 4805, but you can on the NEC Multisync. Trust me - I went a few rounds with this critter. :)

-W

Does anyone know what could be the cause of a yellow-ish vertical line across the length of the right side of the screen be? Does this mean the bulb is starting to burn out or something? The projector has worked flawlessly for ~9 months.

Sounds like your light tube is having a meltdown. You will need to send it in to InFocus for repair.

is a Geforce 4 Ti4600 powerful enough to do any type of HTPC stuff?

Using the nvidia 5500, I can't get to the advanced timing option over DVI, however, I can get to advanced timings over vga. Kind of odd. I can't seem to sync to 720p (1280x720) over DVI either (no probs over VGA). 848x480 @60hz works fine.

I am all about fixing the rolling bars!

Oddly I sent an RMA request to IF to have my rolling bars and other issues looked at, and as soon as I got the auth it has stopped happening... still sending it in in a few days though.

Rolling bars would be a ground loop issue of some sort. There is nothing InFocus can do for you as they are typically caused by a component or components external to your projector.


htr

Dukedevil0, I had the same problem. I think it was something to do with misaligned mirrors, but InFocus was never exactly clear about it. They had to replace the entire optical engine. They did a great job and my 4805 now looks better than ever. Send it in right away. Good luck.

Dukedevil0, I had the same problem. I think it was something to do with misaligned mirrors, but InFocus was never exactly clear about it. They had to replace the entire optical engine. They did a great job and my 4805 now looks better than ever. Send it in right away. Good luck.
any idea how much getting this fixed would cost? mine isn't under warranty anymore as it was a refurb

Using the nvidia 5500, I can't get to the advanced timing option over DVI, however, I can get to advanced timings over vga. Kind of odd. I can't seem to sync to 720p (1280x720) over DVI either (no probs over VGA). 848x480 @60hz works fine.

OK.. this is my experience exactly, we agree there. Now......... the question on the floor remains: What driver version with powerstrip to use 848x480 at Jasons 47.952 settings. ??


-W

What's the spec differences (if any) between the X2 bulb and the 4805 bulb?

-W (just wondering)

It was discussed on approx. page 117 (I think) in this thread...

page 117Page lengths are not fixed on this board. ;)

Ok, here's my first post..I've been a silent reader all this time. I took the plunge and ordered by first pj (4805) AND ordered the D1. All based on what I've seen here in this forum. I am looking forward to the 'stunning' images!! Now, I need to go shopping for right cables/adapters to connect these two. Can someone point me in the right direction?

I will stop by rat shack to pick up the cap...after which I will need to find someone to solder it to the D1 for me (a six pack for that person!!!). Not sure I can handle that task..though all the posts here state that is a simple task.

Thanks to all you folks!!

Has anyone recently placed an order through Circuit City's advantage plan for a new buld? I have been waiting over two weeks for mine yet infocus shows the bulbs in stock.

Ok, here's my first post..I've been a silent reader all this time. I took the plunge and ordered by first pj (4805) AND ordered the D1. All based on what I've seen here in this forum. I am looking forward to the 'stunning' images!! Now, I need to go shopping for right cables/adapters to connect these two. Can someone point me in the right direction?

I will stop by rat shack to pick up the cap...after which I will need to find someone to solder it to the D1 for me (a six pack for that person!!!). Not sure I can handle that task..though all the posts here state that is a simple task.

Thanks to all you folks!!
Here's the place I'm ordering a cable from. (http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10238&style=) DVI-D on the DVD player end, and M1 on the PJ end. Unfortunately the length I need (35 ft) is out of stock until 3/30.

That will take care of the D1 connection. For any other devices (cable box, tivo, game console etc), their prices for component and s-video cables are pretty reasonable too.

Here is a lamp update from the Circuit City rep:

"I phoned InFocus, who stated that they briefly had some projector lamps which went to fill existing orders. There are currently no lamps in stock. Hopefully our orders were some of those which they were able to fill, and if so we could see a change of status shortly. Otherwise, InFocus won?t be getting in any more lamps until the 2nd week of April."

It does not sound very promising on my part...Nor for anyone else who did not make this shipment.

Talking about what the 4805 can sync to over DVI/VGA , is there a fundamental reason (like in the VGA spec) why it can't do 848x480 over VGA? Or is this just a limitation of the 4805?

For all the great things about the 4805, this does seem to be a silly limitation, not being able to sync to its native(..) resolution over VGA. If I remember right, reading the manual gives one the impression that it does.

What is the general consensus around here about what screen material is the best to use with the 4805 ? I'm looking at the DaLite models, specifically the Contour Electrol Tab tensioned...

If I remember correctly. It's been said that if your ceiling mounting(center lenz above 7 ft) that you would whant to use HCCV and if your table mounting(center lenz below 7 ft). that you would use HP. I would suggest trying to get some samples from DaLite and auditioning them, but do so one at a time, not both on the same wall at the same time.

Also I if I'm not mistaken HCCV (fixed screen) and HCMW (pull down) are the same material.

Talking about what the 4805 can sync to over DVI/VGA , is there a fundamental reason (like in the VGA spec) why it can't do 848x480 over VGA? Or is this just a limitation of the 4805?

For all the great things about the 4805, this does seem to be a silly limitation, not being able to sync to its native(..) resolution over VGA. If I remember right, reading the manual gives one the impression that it does.

848x480 is supported over vga, however, due to the way VESA timings work out, 848x480 is detected by as 640x480. Whatever that means. :)

How does a SP4805 bulb look at the 2000-3000 hour mark, My used one has 946 hours on it and I'm curious how it will look fot the next 1500 hours or so. I'm not getting th ND2 filter right off until I see the image at night. Anybody here got 2500+ on the bulb and still think it looks great?

848x480 is supported over vga, however, due to the way VESA timings work out, 848x480 is detected by as 640x480. Whatever that means. :)

Well, that's what I also found, and also found it messes up 1280x720 over DVI (like you did).

The original question still is: is the 4805 not being able to display 848x480 over VGA its own limitation, or basically an impossibility due to the spec limitation? Are you saying it's the spec? Are you sure?

Okay, here's what could be a counterpoint..

My Samsung DLP takes 848x480 over VGA, and displays it with the proper aspect ratio. It's a native 1280x720 so it's internally scaling the picture but I don't think it squishes the picture like the 4805 does. Does thiis mean much?

Do we know of other monitors/displays which display 848x480 properly over VGA?

Anybody here got $2500+ on the bulb and still think it looks great?

now a $2500+ bulb should last a lot longer :D

Anybody here got $2500+ on the bulb and still think it looks great?
I have 2400-2500 hours on mine at this point. Still looks great to me. I'm sure it's dimmed gradually, but I haven't noticed.

Oh, and I never did get a ND2 filter.

This might ne the wrong forum to ask this

I am new to the home theatre world I have inherited a Media computer that was custom built with an All-In-Wonder graphic card and the Infocus 4805 projector. The problem I am having is the display the screen is 92x69.75 I can't seem to get the desktop display to show as it would on a normal monitor I have adjusted the display in the ATI manager but then the image is to small and the resolution sucks. I've played with the projector but my lack of knowledge with the device isn't helping any. Can anyone offer some advice on things that I might try to get the best quality picture and still being able to see the entire desktop display at the same time.

How does a SP4805 bulb look at the 2000-3000 hour markI have 3414hrs and it looks like it did new except there appears to be a slight bit of scorching on the lamp housing just below the opening to the colour wheel.

I took my ND2 off at 3000hrs (when I reset the counter) for a few days, then put it back on. Still looks GREAT!

BTW, I never had ANY dust in the filters over the 3.4K hrs and so never vacuumed it - a couple times I "blew" through the filters but nothing came out.

(This is likely due to the fact that I have a properly designed, dedicated theatre with its own low-speed HVAC. The lead-lined entrance door has seals around its perimeter and a guillotine floor sweep/seal so I don't have any "general" dust leakage from outside the theatre itself. The projector also runs about 10hrs/day. It is never powered down completely - the fan continues to move air however slightly even when the PJ is "off".)

I just checked my bulb hours last night and it was at 44hrs!?!?!? This is the 2nd time my lamp has been reset, and I never even get into the system menu to in order to reset the lamp hours. I'm guestimating that I'm at 1800 hours now, with the ND2 filter still on (and it's still very bright).

Well, that's what I also found, and also found it messes up 1280x720 over DVI (like you did).

The original question still is: is the 4805 not being able to display 848x480 over VGA its own limitation, or basically an impossibility due to the spec limitation? Are you saying it's the spec? Are you sure?

Okay, here's what could be a counterpoint..

My Samsung DLP takes 848x480 over VGA, and displays it with the proper aspect ratio. It's a native 1280x720 so it's internally scaling the picture but I don't think it squishes the picture like the 4805 does. Does thiis mean much?

Do we know of other monitors/displays which display 848x480 properly over VGA?

I'm guessing it's a VESA issue, this is what I've been told by InFocus.

I have 3414hrs and it looks like it did new except there appears to be a slight bit of scorching on the lamp housing just below the opening to the colour wheel.

I took my ND2 off at 3000hrs (when I reset the counter) for a few days, then put it back on. Still looks GREAT!

BTW, I never had ANY dust in the filters over the 3.4K hrs and so never vacuumed it - a couple times I "blew" through the filters but nothing came out.

(This is likely due to the fact that I have a properly designed, dedicated theatre with its own low-speed HVAC. The lead-lined entrance door has seals around its perimeter and a guillotine floor sweep/seal so I don't have any "general" dust leakage from outside the theatre itself. The projector also runs about 10hrs/day. It is never powered down completely - the fan continues to move air however slightly even when the PJ is "off".)

WOW so you never hard power off? <thats what I was intending to do. I had ask the question regarding can a lamp be reset by the end user so I could determine if the stated hours by the seller were reliable. Can it only be reset once you reach the 3000 hours on a cycle or can you reset it at any time during a cycle. Thats really good news to hear that the bulb does very well late in it's life, Makes me feel more reassured. I have read problems about some mirror glue or something coming undone which has to go to Infocus for repair. To me that would seem a heat issue(most things are) would it be wise to not run the PJ for 6-8 hours but more like 3 hours with at least an hour off, or is cycling heat worst than constant heat on a PJ?

I didn't realize that only at 3000 hours it could be reset, not sure that's makes sense if the bulb blew before that.

I didn't realize that only at 3000 hours it could be reset, not sure that's makes sense if the bulb blew before that.

I don't know if it can, thats what I was asking. Seems like my seller was probably telling the truth. He had it for 1 year and put 950 hours on it. If he wanted to set it low he could have and watched it for 50-100 hours and said thats all it had. Alot of that is on ebay and if it can be reset I'd be warry of the only 23 hours on the bulb specs from a seller. Anyhow I feel I got a steal at just under 6 notes to my door along with the D1 and 3 for $10 DVD's at gamestop I'm really puting to The Man. :)

Dukedevil0, sorry to say I'd guess it costs a lot. They have to replace the light engine which means lens, color wheel and more.

I'd rather put it (in)to the woman. ;)

I'd rather put it (in)to the woman. ;)


Google - psychiatrist + (Your Zip Code) would be where I'd start. :p

I don't know if it can, thats what I was asking. Seems like my seller was probably telling the truth. He had it for 1 year and put 950 hours on it. If he wanted to set it low he could have and watched it for 50-100 hours and said thats all it had. Alot of that is on ebay and if it can be reset I'd be warry of the only 23 hours on the bulb specs from a seller. Anyhow I feel I got a steal at just under 6 notes to my door along with the D1 and 3 for $10 DVD's at gamestop I'm really puting to The Man. :)

There's an option in the menu to reset the lamp hours. Your seller could have reset the bulb a long time ago and just now decide to sell for all we know. I'd either look into getting a refurb or even a new unit. Think of what may happen should your bulb die soon, another $300 for a new bulb, you could probably get a new unit instead of buying used.

There's an option in the menu to reset the lamp hours. Your seller could have reset the bulb a long time ago and just now decide to sell for all we know. I'd either look into getting a refurb or even a new unit. Think of what may happen should your bulb die soon, another $300 for a new bulb, you could probably get a new unit instead of buying used.

It's already paid for I was leary of refurb's even though for the most part that have had little problems. He has the receipt to back up when he said he got it new, and its an original box so it's not a refurb that he bought. Being as old as the SP4805 are some of the refurbs probably have a good amount of hours on the whole unit, it's a roll the dice game, I think I'm getting a iimmaculate unit, ceiling hung once and never touched again with 950 hours for a very good price. I saw his install and he did a nice job cable's in the wall an such, so I think he cared about his electronics. Hopefully he won't send me a beatup X1 with a SP4805 emblem glued onto it. :) heres the Item number on ebay 9703887777 if anyone wants to share in my joy or comment boy did you get screwd. If it's as advertisd I feel it's 20% under market.

Hopefully that is the case, I'm just weary of anything ebay. :)

ebay rulz!!.....sucks!!.....rulz!!!!......sucks!!!!.......hey, ya never know!

Well all I know is I've let immaculate stuff of mine be sold one ebay. Each time I was shipping it off thinking man at 1/2 price this guy got a steal from me. If it's a X1 with an SP4805 emblem hopfully I can still hang out with you guys. :p

...heres the Item number on ebay 9703887777 if anyone wants to share in my joy or comment boy did you get screwd...

It looks like the seller was pretty honest about his representation of the item, what with the screenshots and pics, so I think you'll be OK. :) I certainly wouldn't use that ceiling mount though. :confused:

It looks like the seller was pretty honest about his representation of the item, what with the screenshots and pics, so I think you'll be OK. :) I certainly wouldn't use that ceiling mount though. :confused:

If you're talking about the ball-and-socket joint type mount, it's a fine mount, basically made from a speaker stand found in Walmart for about $8. I made my own mount using this and 1/4" plexiglass. Works great, and has all 3 degrees of freedom for adjustment. If anchored well, this is quite capable of holding the 7 odd pounds that the 4805 weighs.

I think a variation of this is available on Ebay for purchase for about $20..

If you're talking about the ball-and-joint type mount, it's a fine mount, basically made from a speaker stand found in Walmart for about $8. I made my own mount using this and 1/4" plexiglass. Works great, and has all 3 degrees of freedom for adjustment. If anchored well, this is quite capable of holding the 7 odd pounds that the 4805 weighs.

I think a variation of this is available on Ebay for purchase for about $20..

If anchored well...

No extender rod though. :(

My mount consists of (Ceiling to PJ)

Scrap hardboard from Lowes screwed into ceiling
4" Plumbing flange connected to hardboard with nuts/bolts
4" dia pipe of 16" length to drop the pj down the height i want- stuck to flange with plumbing cement
Another flange connected as above
another hardboard connected with the walmart speaker mount
Walmart speaker mount connected to another hardboard
hardboard connected to PJ

It does sound a lot more complicated than what it is but I wanted to get all the details out. I can post pics if someone wants. The whole assembly looks industrial but you can cover with some thick white paper to get WAF. Let me know if anyone wants pics

Next time they appear, grab yourself a handful of groundless adapter plugs (no third ground prong) and begin lifting the grounds from various components one at time. (Start with ANY computers in the vicinity, especially monitors). Sometimes this is a quick way to find the source and while someone will pipe in advising you to NEVER lift a ground for fear of death and destruction, it might help you locate the source.

Volts don't kill people...amps do. :eek:

Nothing personal but I have been through all the ground loop preventions before and they don't fix it.

Here's the skinny as to why I know it's not a ground loop:

It only happens on 1080i and 720p (not either of the 480s) so basically only when scaling is involved.

When I switch resolutions (ie 1080i to 720p or vice versa, and even if I come back to the original res it's fine) it goes away even though nothing has been unplugged or turned off (this would not fix a ground loop). which again points to a scaler issue.

I have reduced the setup to just the projector and the cable box, then tried just the pj and an xbox. The cable box cable input was run through a Monster Home Theater thing and all electronics were run through one hospital grade Triplite Isobar 500. So pretty much negates any ground loops and yes it happened from both sources (I force my xbox to higher resolutions for media center because I you can get more text on screen and it's still readable).

Basically I have eliminated all possiblities of a ground loop and the problem persists.

I have managed to temporarily fix the problem witha solution that would not effect a ground loop.

A ground loop would always be present.

So it's not a ground loop.

Everything points to a scaler issue that creeps in and is solved when the scaler is forced to change input resolutions (effectively rebooting the scaler).

My theory is that something in the way the scaler works occasionally gets offset by a little bit, and results in interferance. I covered it earlier in a long post but imagine the you are doing something that takes 100 seconds, and every 50 seconds something is supposed to happen. But it really happens at 51 seconds. Over many iterations and time it would become an issues that sort of moves through your process.

Now imagine someone tells you to do something else for a second, you come back to your job and this time you get it right and it really happens every 50 seconds. Problem fixed until you screw up and do it every 51 seconds again.

Rolling bars would be a ground loop issue of some sort. There is nothing InFocus can do for you as they are typically caused by a component or components external to your projector.


htr


Rolling bars are almost always a ground loop issue, but if you see my post above in this situation they clearly are not. Between being intermittant and being fixed by switching resolutions it's almost certainly to do with the scaler having some issue. This would be something I Infocus should be made aware of and should fix.

So I went looking for those darn rolling bars again tonight...I only get them on 1080i feeds... and they are hard to see. I see none at 720p. I only notice the rolling bars (which vary in speed and direction) when it's against a light green-blue background (ie, my time warner guide). I also have my cable going through my tripp lite surge.

I tested my Oppo at 480p, 1920x540, 720p, and 1080i, no rolling bars that I can see. So it's something to do with the cable box or component connection at 1080i....

Happens on my xbox and cable box at both 1080i and 720p intermittantly so it's not the cable box...

I tested my xbox at 1080i last night also, I couldn't see any bars then. It's really hard for me to see the bars to begin with but I can see them on certain backgrounds on my cable box, I need to find a similar looking background to display on the xbox at 1080i to check for bars again.

I tested my xbox at 1080i last night also, I couldn't see any bars then. It's really hard for me to see the bars to begin with but I can see them on certain backgrounds on my cable box, I need to find a similar looking background to display on the xbox at 1080i to check for bars again.

I am usually pretty sensitive to stuff like this so maybe I am just better at seeing them than you but they are usually not hard for me to see. They about on part with heat wave interferance but obviously much more eveny spaced and deliberate.

If you get the XBMC skin which is very gray (I think it's default or the THC skin?) it's menus have lots of gray ridges taht make it very apparent. Also on the avalaunch menu screen the smooth blue backgrounds show the bars pretty well.

Can it only be reset once you reach the 3000 hoursThe lamp counter can be set any time and as many times as you like. The new IN7x units apparently have a second hour counter that cannot be reset. I strongly suspect that is the case with the 4805 as well but we don't know the 'back door' service code to access the data.really good news to hear that the bulb does very well late in it's lifeActually the main reason that my lamp is doing so well is that I bought the 3-year lamp warranty extension. Simply doing that guarantees that this one lamp will set a 12,000hr record and not burn out till the week after my warranty expires. ;)cycling heat worst than constant heatAs is the case with all electronics, leaving it alone is the conservative course. Turning equipment on/off always creates an environment prone to failure!

Just think about the mechanism of temperature cycling: it involves expansion and contraction - that's the recipe for structural failure whether its a lamp, a circuit board, etc. Circuit boards and printed wiring don't crack unless they are heat cycled. Take a long nail and bend it back and forth a few times (expansion/contraction) and it will break. Hammer it into a wall and leave it alone and, unless it rusts, it will be there in a hundred years.

For example, in professional broadcast and recording centres where reliability is paramount, equipment is installed into a rack (or whatever), turned on and never power-cycled again under normal circumstances. Gear goes for years and years without incident.

I think there's a difference in the severity of the rolling bars for people, mine are very faint and I have to get really close to the screen to see them. I looked for them with XBMC using the Project Mayhem III skin and I'm not seeing them at 1080i.

The lamp counter can be set any time and as many times as you like. The new IN7x units apparently have a second hour counter that cannot be reset. I strongly suspect that is the case with the 4805 as well but we don't know the 'back door' service code to access the data.

I believe someone looked into the 4805's firmware and said it had 2 lamp counters, one for the life of the projector and one for the one we see in the menu.

Cavu once said that he simply moves the DVI cable from the DCT6412 Motorola cable box to his Bravo D1 and vise-versa when switching devices, rather than using a switching box. Since HDMI/DVI cables are digital, shouldn't a splitter transmit information both ways? Monoprice says that this item: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10422&cs_id=1042203&p_id=2522&seq=1&format=2&style= can only OUTPUT to 2 devices from one input, not have 2 devices INPUT into it to 1 output. Is this a marketing lie to get us to buy a switch box or just the honest truth?

I ask because who wants to have to manually remove a calbe every time they watch a DVD if they don't need to, or spend >$100 on a switch box? (I'm lazy AND cheap.)

Actually the main reason that my lamp is doing so well is that I bought the 3-year lamp warranty extension. Simply doing that guarantees that this one lamp will set a 12,000hr record and not burn out till the week after my warranty expires. Don't you know it. Kinda puts you in a mental quandary, day after day hoping your lamp will blow. :)

For example, in professional broadcast and recording centres where reliability is paramount, equipment is installed into a rack (or whatever), turned on and never power-cycled again under normal circumstances. Gear goes for years and years without incident.

Makes since , but on the otherhand regarding the lamp, I figured it was better to do a full power off when I'm done(Even before the fan kicks on for fast cooling) because slow cooldown is better than rapid, Take a hot glass and put it in the freezer and it will crack, do the opposite with a frozen glass, put it in a hot oven real fast and it will crack or slowly change either to the ambient temperature and they are OK. Having said that I think I'll take you advice and just power off with the remote only. As your point is well taken too.

I believe someone looked into the 4805's firmware and said it had 2 lamp counters, one for the life of the projector and one for the one we see in the menu.

Sounds familiar from my X1 a few years back.

I wonder if anyone else had/has this problem? When I first got my 4805 from the Black Friday deal and I hooked it up to my Digital Moto cable box via DVI to MI monoprice cable, I was able to get a good clean picture. A week later(estimate time) the picture all the sudden went black. I get sound out of the A/V Receiver but not pic on the Projector. If I cut the Cable box off and then back on I get a pic for about 10 seconds and then it goes black. I can get a picture from Component input with no problem.

Well when the new firmware came out recently, I flashed the projector and was able to get a picture from the Cable box via DVI again. Well it was working fine up until yesterday. Any suggestions. Right now I have just went back to Component out of the HD Cable box to Component In the PJ. Which is not that bad.

Is there any way to tell if pixel mapping is enabled/on/active? Would it show in the settings display?

I'm currently running on a Apple G5 Dual 2.5 with 2 gigs of RAM + Nvidia GeForce 6800 Ultra DDL. Downloaded SwitchresX last night, so far I have been able to display 856 x 480 @ 72hz. Would this be considered pixel mapping? I keep trying for 854, but SwitchresX does not alllow me to plug in that setting, it goes back to 848.

This being my first PJ, there's nothing I can relate or compare image to. Image does look sweet though.

D1 is starting to look very tempting, hmmmmm.

I don't know much about your setup but try 854@60hz as I think that is the most common. 72hz and 48hz on the PC can cause you problems if your not an uber pro at this.

I wonder if anyone else had/has this problem? When I first got my 4805 from the Black Friday deal and I hooked it up to my Digital Moto cable box via DVI to MI monoprice cable, I was able to get a good clean picture. A week later(estimate time) the picture all the sudden went black. I get sound out of the A/V Receiver but not pic on the Projector. If I cut the Cable box off and then back on I get a pic for about 10 seconds and then it goes black. I can get a picture from Component input with no problem.

Well when the new firmware came out recently, I flashed the projector and was able to get a picture from the Cable box via DVI again. Well it was working fine up until yesterday. Any suggestions. Right now I have just went back to Component out of the HD Cable box to Component In the PJ. Which is not that bad.

It may be an HDCP issue. I'm guessing you're not getting a picture because the HDCP handshake didn't go well. Is the 4805 not seeing a signal or is the 4805 seeing a signal but you only get a black picture from your box?

Is there any way to tell if pixel mapping is enabled/on/active? Would it show in the settings display?

I'm currently running on a Apple G5 Dual 2.5 with 2 gigs of RAM + Nvidia GeForce 6800 Ultra DDL. Downloaded SwitchresX last night, so far I have been able to display 856 x 480 @ 72hz. Would this be considered pixel mapping? I keep trying for 854, but SwitchresX does not alllow me to plug in that setting, it goes back to 848.

This being my first PJ, there's nothing I can relate or compare image to. Image does look sweet though.

D1 is starting to look very tempting, hmmmmm.

I'd try 848x480 and set the 4805 to native mode. It isn't perfect pixel mapping to the 4805's 854x480 but it will do pixel map to 848x480 with 3 empty pixels on each side.

Is there any way to tell if pixel mapping is enabled/on/active? Would it show in the settings display?

I'm currently running on a Apple G5 Dual 2.5 with 2 gigs of RAM + Nvidia GeForce 6800 Ultra DDL. Downloaded SwitchresX last night, so far I have been able to display 856 x 480 @ 72hz. Would this be considered pixel mapping? I keep trying for 854, but SwitchresX does not alllow me to plug in that setting, it goes back to 848.

This being my first PJ, there's nothing I can relate or compare image to. Image does look sweet though.

D1 is starting to look very tempting, hmmmmm.

I had a similar (Dual 2.7) setup to yours, and the same issues. You didn't indicate if you are using a DVI to M1 cable or the VGA to M1 included with the PJ. In order to do pixel mapping, you need the DVI cable.

I have an InFocus M1 to HDMI adapter and a Monoprice 10m DVI to HDMI cable to connect my PJ to the Mac. I too was never able to get SwitchresX or DisplayConfigX to accept settings for 854 x 480. They always reverted to 848.

But even at 848 x 480 @ 60hz or 72hz and the PJ set to native, the picture is pixel mapped and beautiful. I am of course missing 3 pixels on either side of the image. Even my wife noticed the improvement over the previous component connection.

Now, that being all said, my advice is to just do what I did and get a D1. :D

I am now the proud owner of 2880 more sharp pixels than before. Let Cavu become your D1 spiritual guide and you will not regret it.

boukante

It may be an HDCP issue. I'm guessing you're not getting a picture because the HDCP handshake didn't go well. Is the 4805 not seeing a signal or is the 4805 seeing a signal but you only get a black picture from your box?

Ja Phule,

It is seeing the signal because it displays 1080i, 480p, or the respective signal the Cable box is outputting to the 4805.

Hello all -

I'm a proud new owner of an SP4805... I've got to say that this forum, and the two official SP4805 threads were the catalyst for my choice; any projector with this much fanfare must be worth the hype!

It appears, I missed the train on the Infocus Lamp Warranty... they only offer 1 year lamp warranty now, and I swear (unless I'm crazy) a few weeks ago they had up to 3 year lamp warrrantys available. For piece of mind, I did opt to go with the Circuit City extended warranty, as they offer 1 bulb replacement per year (4 years total) for $179.99.

At any rate, my projector is replacing my TV for most things - so I'm concerned with maximizing bulb life. I know the fewer strikes the better, leave it running if you are just going to want to watch it again in 30-60 mins, etc. However, I was looking at the Lamp FAQ on the Infocus website.


How can I maximize my lamp life?

Always allow the projector to completely run through its shutdown cycle before unplugging it.

We also recommend cleaning the dust screens on the lamp module every 200 - 250 hours. Click here for a PDF version of the lamp maintenance instructions.

The SP4805 allows you to run the lamp at a slightly higher brightness level. Press the Menu button, then navigate to Main > Settings > System. Uncheck the Low Power checkbox. This increases the lumen output from 600 to 750 lumens.


In regards to the shutdown cycle... I always hit the power switch on the side, and let it cool... thoughts? I've read a lot of back and forth opinions on this.

Cleaning dust screens... that's common sense, no worries.

Brightness Level of the lamp... I'm confused on how to interpret that. Does that mean running it on full power increases lamp life? Or, that when it starts to dim, increase the lumen level to get back your original brightness?

Ja Phule,

It is seeing the signal because it displays 1080i, 480p, or the respective signal the Cable box is outputting to the 4805.

Then it's your cable box not sending out a picture over dvi. It sounds like the hdcp handshake with the 4805 isn't being detected correctly. I'd check the hdtv reception hardware forum about your specific cable box.

In regards to the shutdown cycle... I always hit the power switch on the side, and let it cool... thoughts? I've read a lot of back and forth opinions on this.

Cleaning dust screens... that's common sense, no worries.

Brightness Level of the lamp... I'm confused on how to interpret that. Does that mean running it on full power increases lamp life? Or, that when it starts to dim, increase the lumen level to get back your original brightness?

I believe either shut down ways would work. It's always been debated that it's better to let the lamp cool down naturally with a hard shutdown rather than forcing it to cool down with a fan, but many of us let the fan cool down the projector with no issues. Cavu has over 3000 hours and he never does the hard shut down. I let the fan cool the bulb in case I need to turn the projector back on soon after powering it down. The most important thing is you do not want the projector to unsuccessfully strike the lamp, which will kill the life of the lamp. The projector will not have a successful strike if the bulb is too hot.

Run the 4805 in high lamp mode will give you more lamp brightness. This mode is VERY VERY loud and I don't think anyone uses it unless they build a hush box around it nor is it really needed for most of us.

I had a similar (Dual 2.7) setup to yours, and the same issues. You didn't indicate if you are using a DVI to M1 cable or the VGA to M1 included with the PJ. In order to do pixel mapping, you need the DVI cable.

I have an InFocus M1 to HDMI adapter and a Monoprice 10m DVI to HDMI cable to connect my PJ to the Mac. I too was never able to get SwitchresX or DisplayConfigX to accept settings for 854 x 480. They always reverted to 848.

But even at 848 x 480 @ 60hz or 72hz and the PJ set to native, the picture is pixel mapped and beautiful. I am of course missing 3 pixels on either side of the image. Even my wife noticed the improvement over the previous component connection.

Now, that being all said, my advice is to just do what I did and get a D1. :D

I am now the proud owner of 2880 more sharp pixels than before. Let Cavu become your D1 spiritual guide and you will not regret it.

boukante

I'm currently using Infocus DVI to M1 cable. I have tried 848 x 480 @ 60hzs and it does look beautiful. Going from a 36" Proscan to OMG look at the size of that thing, I doubt I would've figure out 3 pixels were missing. :D

As for the D1, the more I read about it the more I want it. I'll be ordering one from Newegg early today. D1 + Cavu will be my light at the end of the tunnel. :D

Thank you to all that have responded, your insights are greatly appreciated.

I'm currently using Infocus DVI to M1 cable. I have tried 848 x 480 @ 60hzs and it does look beautiful. Going from a 36" Proscan to OMG look at the size of that thing, I doubt I would've figure out 3 pixels were missing. :D

As for the D1, the more I read about it the more I want it. I'll be ordering one from Newegg early today. D1 + Cavu will be my light at the end of the tunnel. :D

Thank you to all that have responded, your insights are greatly appreciated.

It's not 3 pixels (on each side), it's a total of 2880 individual pixels! ;)

I think there's a difference in the severity of the rolling bars for people, mine are very faint and I have to get really close to the screen to see them. I looked for them with XBMC using the Project Mayhem III skin and I'm not seeing them at 1080i.

I don't know about mine, no one ever montions them and the few people I asked only noticed when I pointed it out on a patch of sky or something.

For me it's very easy to spot on almost any solid colored area.

I don't know about mine, no one ever montions them and the few people I asked only noticed when I pointed it out on a patch of sky or something.

For me it's very easy to spot on almost any solid colored area.

same here

It's not 3 pixels (on each side), it's a total of 2880 individual pixels! ;)

854 - 848 = 6 rows of pixels (3 rows on left side, 3 rows on right)
480 x 6 = 2880 individual pixels MIA (1440 individual pixels on left side, 1440 individual pixels on right side)

:)

^^
Yeah, Edited. :)

Yeah, Edited. :)I have a hard time being responsible for what I do post!! I know, I know. You're just trying to mess with my already fragile sense of reality.

Hi everyone,
I've had my 4805 just long enough to put 10 hrs on the bulb and it has been great. However, I suddenly have the dreaded dust blobs. My unit is a refurb with a limited 90 day warranty so I don't know if it's covered. My question is this: what percentage of attempted cleanings go sour? I have found the photo documented walk-through so that's cool. I'm pretty handy, repairing VCRs, computers, etc. but my house is pretty dusty (we have four indoor cats, which is probably why I have the dust blobs).
All opinions welcome,
-Mac

Has anyone here recently placed an order through Circuit City advantage plan for a new buld?

I placed mine over two weeks ago and I have yet to see anything.

Has anyone here tried "PC Gamma"? I usually use Film Gamma, but I started playing around last night and I tried PC Gamma for the first time and after many test it seems that PC Gamma easily beats CRT & Film Gamma. The colors from film/crt gamma looked weak and unnatural in comparison to PC gamma for some reason. PC gamma brought out more dark detail as well as enhanced color, but I did have to lower the brightness a bit after switching to PC Gamma. Overall, it gave a much more film like picture with better looking colors, especially flesh tones.

I can't believe I never tried this setting with my HTPC. I compared CRT, Film & PC Gamma under several different settings with my HTPC and PC gamma came out on top easily everytime after brightness was readjusted for the PC gamma setting.

Give it a shot if you have an HTPC. You will probably want to lower the brightness a bit after switching to PC Gamma. It may depend on your settings how much of an effect it has, but it wouldn't hurt to see. I was switching back and forth over and over and from what I saw there was no comparison.

I don't know if there are any negatives to using PC Gamma. If there are I haven't found them yet. Near the end of my comparison I checked out a scene on Smallville with snow everywhere and I had thought the snow looked perfect white on film gamma, but boy was I wrong. The PC gamma made the snow look so much better I almost couldn't believe it.

Simply put, in all the tests I did film gamma usually looked artificial and very digital compared to PC gamme, which took on a more natural, warm & pleasing filmlike look. I can't explain why.

I'm also a CRT owner and one of my biggest complaints before was the sometimes unnatural digital look, but PC gamma helped quite a bit. It's still not as pleasing or natural looking as my CRT, but definitely more pleasing to look at.

I don't know if there are any negatives to using PC Gamma.

I would like to know the answer to this too. Hope someone will chime in.

I also use PC Gamma on HTPC....and HD, both through DVI.

The trick...I think anyway...is to lower the Contrast (I use no higher than 42)
Brightness...I leave at 50.

Yeah, I agree the picture looks punchier. I am still amazed every time I look at it :)

Maybe the experts here will beat us to submission on this - but I think PC Gamma looks damn good! But you gotta lower the contrast, otherwise you'll get a too-hot picture.

Just my 2 cents...

Has anyone here tried "PC Gamma"? I usually use Film Gamma, but I started playing around last night and I tried PC Gamma for the first time and after many test it seems that PC Gamma easily beats CRT & Film Gamma. The colors from film/crt gamma looked weak and unnatural in comparison to PC gamma for some reason. PC gamma brought out more dark detail as well as enhanced color, but I did have to lower the brightness a bit after switching to PC Gamma. Overall, it gave a much more film like picture with better looking colors, especially flesh tones.

I can't believe I never tried this setting with my HTPC. I compared CRT, Film & PC Gamma under several different settings with my HTPC and PC gamma came out on top easily everytime after brightness was readjusted for the PC gamma setting.

Give it a shot if you have an HTPC. You will probably want to lower the brightness a bit after switching to PC Gamma. It may depend on your settings how much of an effect it has, but it wouldn't hurt to see. I was switching back and forth over and over and from what I saw there was no comparison.

I don't know if there are any negatives to using PC Gamma. If there are I haven't found them yet. Near the end of my comparison I checked out a scene on Smallville with snow everywhere and I had thought the snow looked perfect white on film gamma, but boy was I wrong. The PC gamma made the snow look so much better I almost couldn't believe it.

Simply put, in all the tests I did film gamma usually looked artificial and very digital compared to PC gamme, which took on a more natural, warm & pleasing filmlike look. I can't explain why.



If you like purple greys and crushed whites/blacks have at the PC gamma - it was designed to pop a powerpoint presentation by stretching midgreys out to B&W - and is nowhere near accurate.

If the scene was not perfectly white with film gamma it was not perfectly white in the DVD.

This is not a subjective preference - it is based on objective measurements.

Also brightness/contrast settings are not subjective - they are absolutes that depend on your source signal levels - they are not impacted by gamma at all. If you adjust them to match gamma then you you are either clipping whiets or reducing your available contrast significantly. What you are actually doing is artificially making a custom gamma curve when you do this.

What may also be happening is that your HTPC is screwed up - leave brightness/contrast alone - set for the posted video DVI settings in the RGB gain/offset menu. Then properly adjust your video settings in the software player that uses VMR9 so test DVD's are correct. Use the film gamma - and you will have a reference image that beats anything out there - including the Bravo.

EDIT: Kras beat me to it....

PC Gamma
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5243472&&#post5243472

Here is what PC gamma does - it destroys dark shading and light highlights in favor of expanding the contrast of greys. So you think it has better contrast and you 'like' it - but watch a SciFi or snow movie on it and it will look horrible. You will also notice everything has a magenta cast - especially greys. Cutting RGB gains you made it even worse -because youi have just lowered your contrast so you cannot even do bright whites any more. They are just crunched grey highlites.

PC gamma increase the detail in the midrange at the expense of the blacks and whites which will be all black and all white with no near blacks/whites. It also gives a purplish push to the greyscale. On first glance it has greater perceived contrast. Certainly not something to use for video gaming - you would lose all the detail in shadows and explosions.

CRT Gamma is a reference 2.5 curve, film gamma is a reference 2.2 curve.

PC gamma is junk - made to lose detail in whites and blacks to increase the apparent contrast of PowerPoint slides. It also color shifts badly in the greys. Put up a grey ramps from any testpattern disk and you will see.

JaPhule

Geez I thought my answer seemed familiar :D

Guys no wet noodle submission beatings here - us "experts" know once you achieve the proper setup - you will be slapping yourself silly for having it setup wrong.

and you will have a reference image that beats anything out there - including the Bravo.

now, dem is fighting words around here! :)

Cavu once said that he simply moves the DVI cable from the DCT6412 Motorola cable box to his Bravo D1 and vise-versa when switching devices, rather than using a switching box. Since HDMI/DVI cables are digital, shouldn't a splitter transmit information both ways? Monoprice says that this item: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10422&cs_id=1042203&p_id=2522&seq=1&format=2&style= can only OUTPUT to 2 devices from one input, not have 2 devices INPUT into it to 1 output. Is this a marketing lie to get us to buy a switch box or just the honest truth?

Nobody knows? I'd at least have expected a lengthy whipping by now about my incompetence in regard to how HDMI works. ;)

Nobody knows? I'd at least have expected a lengthy whipping by now about my incompetence in regard to how HDMI works. ;)

The reason why you cannot input 2 devices into one input is because DVI and HDMI output and input devices send information back and forth to each other (EDID). If you had 2 sources going into one input, it doesn't know which one to read.

This is why I love this forum. An answer virtually to any question no matter how complicated the subject might be.

Maybe the experts here will beat us to submission on thisYa think??!!

I'll just put on a rain coat and stand back while the fruit flies. ;)

What about if you only have 1 unit on at a time? (I thought this would have been obvious, but I should have been more specific, sorry.) Since only 1 unit would be sending a signal at a time, could the cable work that way?

A simple 2 to 1 cable wouldn't work, it would seem, you still need a switch of some sort to separate the 2 devices, whether it be manual or digital.

What about if you only have 1 unit on at a time? (I thought this would have been obvious, but I should have been more specific, sorry.) Since only 1 unit would be sending a signal at a time, could the cable work that way?


I always had this question too but never brave enough to try it incase both units do end up on at the sametime.

Furthermore, since information is being sent both ways, it means the input source would be sending information through to the 2 outputs, and I'm guessing because it's being split 2 ways the signal strength would be too weak to communicate each input source.

Guess I have to wait for monoprice to get this:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011001&p_id=2786&seq=1&format=2&style=

Too bad it's on back order until 5/10. $28 is much better than >$100. (Cheap me, once again.)

Hi everyone,
I've had my 4805 just long enough to put 10 hrs on the bulb and it has been great. However, I suddenly have the dreaded dust blobs. My unit is a refurb with a limited 90 day warranty so I don't know if it's covered. My question is this: what percentage of attempted cleanings go sour? I have found the photo documented walk-through so that's cool. I'm pretty handy, repairing VCRs, computers, etc. but my house is pretty dusty (we have four indoor cats, which is probably why I have the dust blobs).
All opinions welcome,
-Mac

Laugh at me if you will... And let me first mention that I don't recommend what I'm about to say to anyone. ;)

I had a dust blob (or, what looked to match exactly the dust blob descriptions shown in the "dust blob cleaning" thread - I held up a paper near the lens it it showed up just like in the example photos) 3 months ago. At first I hoped it was somthing on the lens, but dusting the lens didn't hellp. I didn't really want to go through the cleaning process, so I tried to live with it for a couple of weeks. I couldn't - it bothered me more than anything else even though it was waaaaay over to one edge.

So I made up mind to try to follow the procedures given in the "dust blob cleaning" thread. Then as I was cleaning the lamp filter, I thought: "well, since I've already decided to crack it open, why not try one last thing?"

I stuck the vacuum cleaner tube into the lamp-housing cavity and let it suck away for a good 20-30 seconds. Then I vacuumed along all the exterior vents.

No more dust blob. :cool: I figured this was as risky as opening the case, removing the lens, blow into it with compressed air, etc., so why not?

I asked if anyone else found this effective in the "dust blob cleaning" thread, but I don't think there were any follow-up replies.

As I said, I don't recommend it, but, if I see another dust blob, I'll try it again. :D

Laugh at me if you will... And let me first mention that I don't recommend what I'm about to say to anyone. ;)

I had a dust blob (or, what looked to match exactly the dust blob descriptions shown in the "dust blob cleaning" thread - I held up a paper near the lens it it showed up just like in the example photos) 3 months ago. At first I hoped it was somthing on the lens, but dusting the lens didn't hellp. I didn't really want to go through the cleaning process, so I tried to live with it for a couple of weeks. I couldn't - it bothered me more than anything else even though it was waaaaay over to one edge.

So I made up mind to try to follow the procedures given in the "dust blob cleaning" thread. Then as I was cleaning the lamp filter, I thought: "well, since I've already decided to crack it open, why not try one last thing?"

I stuck the vacuum cleaner tube into the lamp-housing cavity and let it suck away for a good 20-30 seconds. Then I vacuumed along all the exterior vents.

No more dust blob. :cool: I figured this was as risky as opening the case, removing the lens, blow into it with compressed air, etc., so why not?

I asked if anyone else found this effective in the "dust blob cleaning" thread, but I don't think there were any follow-up replies.

As I said, I don't recommend it, but, if I see another dust blob, I'll try it again. :D

Hey, I think once you have a dust blob and know you're into opening your pj up, your method is definitely worth a try! I have a couple blobs now, they don't bother me on casual viewing, but i might give it a try!

Guess I have to wait for monoprice to get this:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011001&p_id=2786&seq=1&format=2&style=

Too bad it's on back order until 5/10. $28 is much better than >$100. (Cheap me, once again.)


What type of adapter will use use for the HDMI-DVI?

Bummer, after having my unit since 6/28/04 it looks like I have now the dreaded color wheel whine. To make matters worse, when I went to the website, I am sure I already registered it, but their website does not reflect this, I hope they don't try to back out of their warranty??

Bummer, after having my unit since 6/28/04 it looks like I have now the dreaded color wheel whine. To make matters worse, when I went to the website, I am sure I already registered it, but their website does not reflect this, I hope they don't try to back out of their warranty??

Well I may be in the same boat. I just got my used SP4805. Immaculate cosmetic condition 950 hours on lamp. I flashed the firmware to the latest. But I'm definatly hearing a constant wine over the dull fan, sounds just like the spin up on the color wheel but it never go's away. I have yet to send it a signal from any sorce. just played arond in the menu, but I'm preety sure that sound shouldn't wine like that. It doesn't sound loud and broken like it's struggleing - just a high pictch constant wine. Maybe if I send it a sorce it will stop(Hopefull thinking I know) I don't know if I can live with the sound or not anybody know what IF charges to fix it? Bummer if thats the case. I'll play with it more and report back tommorow. :confused:

What type of adapter will use use for the HDMI-DVI?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041902&p_id=2029&seq=1&format=2&style=

for dustblobs and colorwheel whine:

I shared my experience 2 months ago. I had remodeling work done in house and didn't realize that construction dust had clogged 75% of 4805's intake filters. I only pulled it down when what had been brief periods of buzz saw sound turned to constant at start up and consistent during playback.

I pulled the lamp assembly and realized how bad it was and it must have been overheating. So I used compressed air and a shop vac at same time. I put shop vac nozzle at back to pull air then used can to "dislodge" any dust I could see: fans, case, color wheel (after cleaning with lens cleaner). I also focused the compressed air directly at the color wheel bearing and tried to reach below the wheel at the bearing as well.

Results were: 95% of noise gone immediately, other 5% gone within 2 days. I think what happened is unit over heated and bearings were running hot, lubrication was out of spec. I think once operating temp was corrected, the bearings reseated (at least thats my theory).

In short, try pushing/pulling air at same time to dislodge/remove dust rather than just moving it around.

Good luck. Buzz free for several months now and mine had been *bad*. Maybe I got lucky ...

for dustblobs and colorwheel whine:

I shared my experience 2 months ago. I had remodeling work done in house and didn't realize that construction dust had clogged 75% of 4805's intake filters. I only pulled it down when what had been brief periods of buzz saw sound turned to constant at start up and consistent during playback.

I pulled the lamp assembly and realized how bad it was and it must have been overheating. So I used compressed air and a shop vac at same time. I put shop vac nozzle at back to pull air then used can to "dislodge" any dust I could see: fans, case, color wheel (after cleaning with lens cleaner). I also focused the compressed air directly at the color wheel bearing and tried to reach below the wheel at the bearing as well.

Results were: 95% of noise gone immediately, other 5% gone within 2 days. I think what happened is unit over heated and bearings were running hot, lubrication was out of spec. I think once operating temp was corrected, the bearings reseated (at least thats my theory).

In short, try pushing/pulling air at same time to dislodge/remove dust rather than just moving it around.

Good luck. Buzz free for several months now and mine had been *bad*. Maybe I got lucky ...

I've seen you post this before, and found it very interesting- what kind of compressed air did you use? This seems like a possible cure for dust blobs as well, by stirring everything up and sucking it out the back. . .

Let us know what kind of compressed air. . .

Thanks!

When I was at RatShack for the D1 cap, I saw a compressed air cannister supposedly just for electronics. Around $6, if I remember correctly.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041902&p_id=2029&seq=1&format=2&style=

Actually, I think this is the one needed, since the HDMI on the switch will most likely be female.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041902&p_id=2080&seq=1&format=2&style=

Man, I just cannot believe monoprice price and quality. Real value!

BTW - Not sure why they couldn't throw in the TOSlink optical for audio on these. The 5x1 seems to be a good value for 40 bucks more than the 2x1 and probably worth investing in since that may most like be the interface for most things to come.

I think I'll pull the trigger and get one.

for dustblobs and colorwheel whine:

I shared my experience 2 months ago. I had remodeling work done in house and didn't realize that construction dust had clogged 75% of 4805's intake filters. I only pulled it down when what had been brief periods of buzz saw sound turned to constant at start up and consistent during playback.

I pulled the lamp assembly and realized how bad it was and it must have been overheating. So I used compressed air and a shop vac at same time. I put shop vac nozzle at back to pull air then used can to "dislodge" any dust I could see: fans, case, color wheel (after cleaning with lens cleaner). I also focused the compressed air directly at the color wheel bearing and tried to reach below the wheel at the bearing as well.

Results were: 95% of noise gone immediately, other 5% gone within 2 days. I think what happened is unit over heated and bearings were running hot, lubrication was out of spec. I think once operating temp was corrected, the bearings reseated (at least thats my theory).

In short, try pushing/pulling air at same time to dislodge/remove dust rather than just moving it around.

Good luck. Buzz free for several months now and mine had been *bad*. Maybe I got lucky ...
dmcdayton,
Could you elaborate on your method. When you say "pulled from the back" do you mean through the rear vents? Where were you spraying the air, in through the vents or maybe the empty bulb bay? More detailed info would be great.
Thanks

When setting the Gain-58 and offset 28.5 to correct the PC DVI level. Should I have the Gamma on PC and it's corrected by the above numbers or should I have Video or Film gamma - and what should I have white peaking at, does white peaking destroy contrast? And I should have it in 16:9 and not not native right? Seems I'm constantly having to switch aspect ratio's.

Actually, I think this is the one needed, since the HDMI on the switch will most likely be female.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041902&p_id=2080&seq=1&format=2&style=

Man, I just cannot believe monoprice price and quality. Real value!

BTW - Not sure why they couldn't throw in the TOSlink optical for audio on these. The 5x1 seems to be a good value for 40 bucks more than the 2x1 and probably worth investing in since that may most like be the interface for most things to come.

I think I'll pull the trigger and get one.

If I get the switch box, then you are correct about the adapter, but if I'm going to just move the cable itself between the Bravo to the DCT6412, the one I listed should be correct. My current plan is to get monopice item #s 2699 and 2029...OR, I could get #s 2502 and 2080...OR, I could get #s 2689, 2029, and 2109. There are advantages to each of the choices, so I haven't fully decided yet, but I'll likely go with the first combo. Either way is cheap.

The switch box that I listed earlier that comes in on May 10th is $129 less than the 5X1. If I'm going to spend >$100, then I'll just upgrade my receiver to one with HDMI inputs and sell my old one, skipping the switcher completely.

I don't think I could handle having yet another remote around, so no 5X1 for me. As it is, it's frustrating that I haven't figured out the code for the Bravo to my OneforAll 9910 yet.

Laugh at me if you will... And let me first mention that I don't recommend what I'm about to say to anyone. ;)

I stuck the vacuum cleaner tube into the lamp-housing cavity and let it suck away for a good 20-30 seconds. Then I vacuumed along all the exterior vents.




Heh. that's the same way I *introduced* my 3 dust blobs LOL

-W

Heh. that's the same way I *introduced* my 3 dust blobs LOL

-W

yeah, I think this method is a real crap-shoot. You may suck some crud out but you're also potantially sucking a ton of crud in.

Heh. that's the same way I *introduced* my 3 dust blobs LOL

-W

Well... Your vacuuming skill, uhm, sucks. ;)

yeah, I think this method is a real crap-shoot. You may suck some crud out but you're also potantially sucking a ton of crud in.

Given that people are getting dust blobs without trying, it's a crap-shoot always. I hope the IN7x sealed optics improves the odds of staying dust blob free.

I'll further confess that I've vacuumed inside the lamp chamber, even without having further dust blob problems, every time I cleaned the lamp filter since.

This is where I reiterate: "I don't recommend it." :D But it makes for good annecdote, doesn't it? :D

Given that people are getting dust blobs without trying, it's a crap-shoot always.
Well, I think sucking a lot of air into the unit probably increases the odds. BUT-- I guess that if your sucking resulted in a blob you just just suck more until at some point you wind up with no blob. And with the unit sealed you are actually in a much better position to test, as opposed to buttoning it up, turning it on, going "Damn!" and starting over. So you may be onto something...


(HUh huh huh uh uh huh huh uh uh uh huh huhuhu uh huh huhuh huh - he said "suck" :D)

When setting the Gain-58 and offset 28.5 to correct the PC DVI level. Should I have the Gamma on PC and it's corrected by the above numbers or should I have Video or Film gamma - and what should I have white peaking at, does white peaking destroy contrast? And I should have it in 16:9 and not not native right? Seems I'm constantly having to switch aspect ratio's.

Gamma at film. White peaking at 0. White peaking can boost the contrast up but it does more bad than good at the same time. If you're pixel mapping then use native.

Son of a ...

So I just got my projector after shipping it to myself cross country,
hooked to recently purchased D1 ( temporary through components).

Here's the son of a..... part
I don't know if something is screwy, PJ or D1, but calibrated contrast is at 77-79 :eek: . Whats up with this? My three other dvd players were 54-57 contrast. Is something wrong somewhere?


Son of B part 2,

I think I have the dreaded rolling bars? Looks like horizontal light colored bars moving, not rolling slowly, mostly top 1/3 of screen, noticable more in light scenes. Is this the rolling bars fixable by a cheater plug?

D1 is in 480p because 480i couldn't do btb, and color and contrast wise looked like crap.


Any thoughts/help,

thanks,

Well boys guess what time it is...... it's woot time! They're selling "new" units for the last day of the $100 rebate.

"The nickel candy bar. The fifty-cent gallon of gasoline. The five-dollar crack rock. All good deals must come to an end. And though it may seem to transcend the laws of nature through its sheer projection excellence, the seven-hundred-dollar Infocus 4805 DLP Home Theater Projector is no different. Today, March 31, 2006, represents your very last, absolutely final chance to qualify for the $100 InFocus rebate on the 4805. The bell tolls for thee (and thy credit balance, and thy dreams of an affordable home theater setup).

Someday, you’ll be able to bore your grandchildren with tales of the bygone cheap-projector era. You’ll remember when a mere seven Benjamins (after rebate) could get you 750 ANSI lumens of projection brilliance in 854×480 resolution and 2000:1 contrast ratio. You’ll recount, in great detail and at great length, the 9-foot projector image in native 16:9 format. “Grandpa, do we have to hear about the 6-segment, 4x color wheel again?” Derned right you do, junior – deals like this don’t come down the pike every day.

Unlike our previous offerings, this time you’ll be buying a brand-new InFocus 4805 – nothing refurbished, reconditioned, or re-anythinged. After all, you don’t know where a refurbished projector has been. Why would you let it into your home? It’s like finding a used Kleenex on the street and wiping your gums with it. It’s disgusting.

No more hemming and hawing and if-or-butting. It’s decision time, zero hour, the day of judgment. Either buy the InFocus 4805 today and return the rebate form for $100 off, or wait and pay premium prices forever. There is no third option."

Ah I think this just sum's it up!
However.. I'm not sure if this is such a great deal now that the IN72 is out.

Gamma at film. White peaking at 0. White peaking can boost the contrast up but it does more bad than good at the same time. If you're pixel mapping then use native.

thanks thats where I wound up on both. I have 3 dust blobs no big deal, except is that guy right? damm a Brand New SP4805 for $700 rocks?

Would you all say the IN72 is $400 better than the 4805? If this is a bad question I'll delete it.

for suggesting this projector (and for that matter the speakers as well). If I thought it looked good using S-video, I had seen nothing. I just connected it using the M1-DVI from monoprice and I used the powerstrip settings in the Ja Phule FAQ (numbers provided by dagamepimpin) and wow, it really was amazing.

My screen is the simplest DIY (I used the Kills white) and while it looks good, I'm thinking it could use better dark levels, but then again I haven't calibrated it yet using Avia so, I'm sure there will be an improvement...and if needed, I'll repaint the screen using a different mix.

Thanks again to everyone. This site is the greatest. This really has been a learning experience, but I am thrilled with the results.

thanks thats where I wound up on both. I have 3 dust blobs no big deal, except is that guy right? damm a Brand New SP4805 for $700 rocks?


Actually, $805

If you're in the market for a new bulb right now, then the PJ is just about $500 new.

If I get the switch box, then you are correct about the adapter, but if I'm going to just move the cable itself between the Bravo to the DCT6412, the one I listed should be correct. My current plan is to get monopice item #s 2699 and 2029...OR, I could get #s 2502 and 2080...OR, I could get #s 2689, 2029, and 2109. There are advantages to each of the choices, so I haven't fully decided yet, but I'll likely go with the first combo. Either way is cheap.

The switch box that I listed earlier that comes in on May 10th is $129 less than the 5X1. If I'm going to spend >$100, then I'll just upgrade my receiver to one with HDMI inputs and sell my old one, skipping the switcher completely.

I don't think I could handle having yet another remote around, so no 5X1 for me. As it is, it's frustrating that I haven't figured out the code for the Bravo to my OneforAll 9910 yet.

I posted the Bravo codes on the D1/4805 thread. I got my OFA Kameleon (http://www.ofausa.com/remote.php?type=URC%209960) fully programmed with JP1 for all my stuff including Joytech 240C HDTV switch. If I get the HDMI monoprice switch, that would be ideal since I would need it to have the descrete IR codes (which it does).

I purchased my 4805 in October 05. Have used about 300 hrs so far. Two nights ago I installed a new projector mount. Hooked the pj back up and experienced two problems. The picture was dark and had a red tint to it, no matter what source I used (dvd or cable box). I pressed the auto image button and the image cleared up. Switched the source from cable back to dvd, image got dark and red again. Pressed auto image again, image cleared up (again). I haven't experienced this before, so I was a little concerned. Switched the source back to cable one last time ... same problem. Pressed auto image again, cleared up the image. The second problem ... Pressed the menu button, menu appears on the screen, but I can't go any further into the menu (the main menu is frozen on the screen). I tried to exit the menu, and couldn't (pj stopped responding to any commands from the remote). I ruled out the batteries by putting new ones in the remote, pj still did not respond to any commands from the remote. Had to power off the pj via the power switch on the side of the pj. Powered it back up, lamp hours read zero now. PJ seems to be functioning properly now. Anybody experience these problems?

Son of a ...

So I just got my projector after shipping it to myself cross country,
hooked to recently purchased D1 ( temporary through components).

Here's the son of a..... part
I don't know if something is screwy, PJ or D1, but calibrated contrast is at 77-79 :eek: . Whats up with this? My three other dvd players were 54-57 contrast. Is something wrong somewhere?


Son of B part 2,

I think I have the dreaded rolling bars? Looks like horizontal light colored bars moving, not rolling slowly, mostly top 1/3 of screen, noticable more in light scenes. Is this the rolling bars fixable by a cheater plug?

D1 is in 480p because 480i couldn't do btb, and color and contrast wise looked like crap.


Any thoughts/help,

thanks,

A. Analog connections will make brightness/contrast vary from player to player.
B. Try a cheater plug, see if it helps. Try to have all your equipment plugged into the same surge protector.

for suggesting this projector (and for that matter the speakers as well). If I thought it looked good using S-video, I had seen nothing. I just connected it using the M1-DVI from monoprice and I used the powerstrip settings in the Ja Phule FAQ (numbers provided by dagamepimpin) and wow, it really was amazing.

My screen is the simplest DIY (I used the Kills white) and while it looks good, I'm thinking it could use better dark levels, but then again I haven't calibrated it yet using Avia so, I'm sure there will be an improvement...and if needed, I'll repaint the screen using a different mix.

Thanks again to everyone. This site is the greatest. This really has been a learning experience, but I am thrilled with the results.

Welcome to the club. :)

I purchased my 4805 in October 05. Have used about 300 hrs so far. Two nights ago I installed a new projector mount. Hooked the pj back up and experienced two problems. The picture was dark and had a red tint to it, no matter what source I used (dvd or cable box). I pressed the auto image button and the image cleared up. Switched the source from cable back to dvd, image got dark and red again. Pressed auto image again, image cleared up (again). I haven't experienced this before, so I was a little concerned. Switched the source back to cable one last time ... same problem. Pressed auto image again, cleared up the image. The second problem ... Pressed the menu button, menu appears on the screen, but I can't go any further into the menu (the main menu is frozen on the screen). I tried to exit the menu, and couldn't (pj stopped responding to any commands from the remote). I ruled out the batteries by putting new ones in the remote, pj still did not respond to any commands from the remote. Had to power off the pj via the power switch on the side of the pj. Powered it back up, lamp hours read zero now. PJ seems to be functioning properly now. Anybody experience these problems?

I'd check your cable connections just in case. Sometimes when accessing the menu and changing sources on the 4805 can cause the 4805 to freeze like that. It's happened to me before but after identifying that it was because I was messing with the source and menu at the same time it hasn't happened again.

Well I may be in the same boat. I just got my used SP4805. Immaculate cosmetic condition 950 hours on lamp. I flashed the firmware to the latest. But I'm definatly hearing a constant wine over the dull fan, sounds just like the spin up on the color wheel but it never go's away. I have yet to send it a signal from any sorce. just played arond in the menu, but I'm preety sure that sound shouldn't wine like that. It doesn't sound loud and broken like it's struggleing - just a high pictch constant wine. Maybe if I send it a sorce it will stop(Hopefull thinking I know) I don't know if I can live with the sound or not anybody know what IF charges to fix it? Bummer if thats the case. I'll play with it more and report back tommorow. :confused:
What you're describing shounds like the noise my 4805 makes all the time. The funny thing is, most of the time now I don't notice it at all. Every once in a while I notice it, and it bugs me for about 5 minutes, and then I don't notice it any more.

So give it some time and see if the same happens to you. Also, turn up the volume on what you're watching. ;)

-Dan

Actually, $805

If you're in the market for a new bulb right now, then the PJ is just about $500 new.

Did you/I miss something? There's a $100 rebate, making it $705.. No tax to most states either..

Did you/I miss something? There's a $100 rebate, making it $705.. No tax to most states either..

That's right, or $405 for those ready to purchase a bulb. Looking pretty darn good to me since you can sell your old one back on ebay for more than $405. Maybe it is time to decide if a bulb is in your near future and get this deal instead.

What you're describing shounds like the noise my 4805 makes all the time. The funny thing is, most of the time now I don't notice it at all. Every once in a while I notice it, and it bugs me for about 5 minutes, and then I don't notice it any more.

So give it some time and see if the same happens to you. Also, turn up the volume on what you're watching. ;)

-Dan

Could be, I watched a few movies last night and although the wine was there it faded in to my subconscious - but poped back in ever 60 minutes or so. Now to clean the dust blobs. And very carefully the color wheel.

Anybody have a ND2 filter-62mm for sale, I want one for about $20, but it's either buy a set for $45.00 or a single for the same.

I was hoping to get some opinions from you guys on a new DvD player. I've read here that since the 4805 does the converting that a simple DvD player works fine. I use Componet cables... but should I look for a Player w/ the DVI out?

My Denon 1815 looks like it's had it's day. It will only load and play 1 disk (DvD or CD) then needs to be Unplugged for a while B4 it will load another. (Got it as a Refurb for $75 6 months ago)

I use to want the Yamaha C750. I do Audio recording and the 5 Disk is good for me for checking Mixes and Comparing CDs. But I'm thinking Maybe I should get a Single disk Dvd and a 5 Disk CD changer.

What do you think... get another 1815, the C750 (both 5 Disk) or ...???

Thanks for any help,
RD

I was hoping to get some opinions from you guys on a new DvD player. I've read here that since the 4805 does the converting that a simple DvD player works fine. I use Componet cables... but should I look for a Player w/ the DVI out?

My Denon 1815 looks like it's had it's day. It will only load and play 1 disk (DvD or CD) then needs to be Unplugged for a while B4 it will load another. (Got it as a Refurb for $75 6 months ago)

I use to want the Yamaha C750. I do Audio recording and the 5 Disk is good for me for checking Mixes and Comparing CDs. But I'm thinking Maybe I should get a Single disk Dvd and a 5 Disk CD changer.

What do you think... get another 1815, the C750 (both 5 Disk) or ...???

Thanks for any help,
RD

For the 4805, everything is all about getting a V inc. Bravo D1. Check back a few pages prior.

I was hoping to get some opinions from you guys on a new DvD player. I've read here that since the 4805 does the converting that a simple DvD player works fine. I use Componet cables... but should I look for a Player w/ the DVI out?

My Denon 1815 looks like it's had it's day. It will only load and play 1 disk (DvD or CD) then needs to be Unplugged for a while B4 it will load another. (Got it as a Refurb for $75 6 months ago)

I use to want the Yamaha C750. I do Audio recording and the 5 Disk is good for me for checking Mixes and Comparing CDs. But I'm thinking Maybe I should get a Single disk Dvd and a 5 Disk CD changer.

What do you think... get another 1815, the C750 (both 5 Disk) or ...???

Thanks for any help,
RD
The one thing you want to make sure is that if you get an up-converting player, you can turn off its up-conversion so you can let the 4805 do the work. Personally, I bought a cheap Sony DVP-NS50P at Wal*Mart and it works great through component cables. YMMV.

-Dan

For the 4805, everything is all about getting a V inc. Bravo D1. Check back a few pages prior.

Nice!

I'll be looking more into that. Some reviews I just quickly checked out http://reviews-zdnet.com.com/V_Bravo_D1/4505-6463_16-20848496.html said it was not a good build and many had problems but they were from 2004 and I'm sure if it's the talk of the town here, then V inc. probably fixed those issues. For $100 and the DVI I'm already getting excited.

Thanks,
RD

Also...
I guess I should also check into a DVI Switch box... since I just checked my HD cable box and it has DVI too :)
Right now I have my Denon doing the Component switching for the DvD and HD cablebox.
Are they expensive?
RD

Russ D, each and every answer to all of your questions can be found within the past 10 pages or so right here in this thread. Just go back and start reading and within 10 minutes, you will know without a doubt everything you just asked about. I'm not saying this to be rude, just that this would be by far the easiest way for you to get definitive answers without redundancy.

Hey guys! I haven't posted in a few days, been gathering all the cables and adapters, etc., that I needed for my setup. I just got my new Momitsu V880-DX delivered yesterday and I have it sending a pixel-mapped 1:1 image to my 4805.

Ummmmmm, wow???!!!!! :eek:

The picture is UNBELIEVABLY amazing. When I popped my "Finding Nemo" DVD in the player I just about fell over backwards. The picture is so amazing it almost looks three-dimensional !!!!!! :)

I'm really glad I took everyone's advice and decided to use my M1 port for the DVI connection from a DVD player instead of using it for video games. (I like playing games okay, but I'm MUCH more of a movie buff than I am a gamer.)

However... related to that... I have a question...

For my PC, I have a graphics card (ATI 9600) with a DVI out. I purchased a DVI > Component adapter, so my PC basically outputs an 800x600 image that connects with my 4805 by means of the component connection, now. The picture looks surprisingly GREAT... except for one thing: The image my projector throws out only shows about 80-90% of the desktop at a time!!!

If I move my cursor over to the right side of the screen, it scoots to the right. If I move it to the top, it scoots up. If I move the cursor to the left, it scoots to the left. So at any one time I'm only seeing a portion of the picture and never all of it at once. My computer geek friend, who knows a heck of a lot more about computers than he does about projectors and A/V, says he thinks it is because Windows XP will only go down to an 800x600 resolution and won't show an image scaled any smaller than that.

This would be okay for surfing, etc., but impossible for playing games (because once the cursor goes away you can't move the image around on the screen).

Is there a workaround or a fix for this issue??? Using DVI out from my computer, converted to Component, is there something that will allow me to see the entire picture at once???

Russ D, spyder696969 is correct, read the last 10 pages of this thread and also check out this sister thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=660701&page=1&pp=30

To quickly answer your questions:
The D1 manufacturer has not fix any issues, but read back here and you will see how to fix it and possibly swap the loader if you so choose

DVI switches are not cheap, some of us are looking at monoprice.com HDMI switches and adapters instead.

Hey guys! I haven't posted in a few days, been gathering all the cables and adapters, etc., that I needed for my setup. I just got my new Momitsu V880-DX delivered yesterday and I have it sending a pixel-mapped 1:1 image to my 4805.

Should have bought the Bravo D1 :cool:


JUST KIDDING!!!!!!!!!!!! :D

Congrats- you've jumped straight to one of the best pictures possible. I can only imagine the shock! What screen are you using?

Can't answer your XP desktop question, but your friends explanation sounds plausible. . .

Enjoy!

Hey guys! I haven't posted in a few days, been gathering all the cables and adapters, etc., that I needed for my setup. I just got my new Momitsu V880-DX delivered yesterday and I have it sending a pixel-mapped 1:1 image to my 4805.

Ummmmmm, wow???!!!!! :eek:

The picture is UNBELIEVABLY amazing. When I popped my "Finding Nemo" DVD in the player I just about fell over backwards. The picture is so amazing it almost looks three-dimensional !!!!!! :)

I'm really glad I took everyone's advice and decided to use my M1 port for the DVI connection from a DVD player instead of using it for video games. (I like playing games okay, but I'm MUCH more of a movie buff than I am a gamer.)

However... related to that... I have a question...

For my PC, I have a graphics card (ATI 9600) with a DVI out. I purchased a DVI > Component adapter, so my PC basically outputs an 800x600 image that connects with my 4805 by means of the component connection, now. The picture looks surprisingly GREAT... except for one thing: The image my projector throws out only shows about 80-90% of the desktop at a time!!!

If I move my cursor over to the right side of the screen, it scoots to the right. If I move it to the top, it scoots up. If I move the cursor to the left, it scoots to the left. So at any one time I'm only seeing a portion of the picture and never all of it at once. My computer geek friend, who knows a heck of a lot more about computers than he does about projectors and A/V, says he thinks it is because Windows XP will only go down to an 800x600 resolution and won't show an image scaled any smaller than that.

This would be okay for surfing, etc., but impossible for playing games (because once the cursor goes away you can't move the image around on the screen).

Is there a workaround or a fix for this issue??? Using DVI out from my computer, converted to Component, is there something that will allow me to see the entire picture at once???

You need to get your screen outputting 840x484 or something similar that will fit on the 4805s native screen resolution. At 800x600 not all the pixels can show on screen at once hence the scrolling thing.

It's a lot of reading but it's mentioned a lot in both 4805 threads what the correct resolution is for the 4805.

You need to get your screen outputting 840x484 or something similar that will fit on the 4805s native screen resolution. At 800x600 not all the pixels can show on screen at once hence the scrolling thing.

It's a lot of reading but it's mentioned a lot in both 4805 threads what the correct resolution is for the 4805.

Thanks for the answer! I should have mentioned, though, that my computer geek friend thinks that the LOWEST RESOLUTION POSSIBLE for Windows XP is 800x600... don't ask me why... :confused:

Should have bought the Bravo D1 :cool:

JUST KIDDING!!!!!!!!!!!! :D

I figured at least one person would say something like that, considering all the discussion here regarding the Bravo D1 lately! :D I decided on the Momitsu for several reasons. And so far I am REALLY happy with it. I think I'll need to keep tweaking the custom settings for the 1:1 pixel mapping, though. With the settings I'm using right now, there is a very pronounced "stutter"... or a herki-jerky image... for lack of a better description... when an image is panning side to side or up and down. Based on what I've read, I THINK this has something to do with the refresh rate.


Congrats- you've jumped straight to one of the best pictures possible. I can only imagine the shock! What screen are you using?

I have a DA-LITE 78670 Model B 52x92 Matte White. (And, yes, I had to look that up. All that detail doesn't come flowing off of my tongue very easily!) And, to repeat, with the exception of the "stutter", I just can't get over the image quality. Before this I was using a crappy, generic Yamakawa DVD player with component cables. QUITE an improvement, let me tell you.

And since I have no plans for the weekend... I think I'll be spending it camped in front of my screen. :D

Looks like I'll be sending my 4805 back to the mothership. I have a blurry vertical green line encroaching on the left-hand side of my image -- hardly at all at the bottom, significantly at the top:

http://www.planetplg.com/DSCF3144.jpg

I think it's the dreaded light tube meltdown... :(

Dan

So I really liked the discrete codes on the IF72 as two things I hate about my 4805 are the liklihood of accidentally powering off (I know it's got the cancel option) and the need to cycle through 16:9, native, 4:3, letterbox.

So I picked up a Harmony 880 because I have 12 remotes next to my couch and my Harmony TC1000 was not cutting it for me.

I was worried about how to program in things so it wouldn't accidentally turn off the pj and how to get my xbox to show in 16:9 while still have my tv and comp in native...

So I went online, setup my 880, surprisingly it recognized a 4805 and put it away till I got home...

I started going through the device settings and was not surprised to see things like discrete on and off and screen sizes since I figured it was just using generic IF TV codes, but I pushed them anyway and what do you know... it really does recognize discrete screen size codes and there is a power on and a power off... there are even functions I didn't think it had like a freeze option!

Maybe I am just slow and didn't see how to do this before but for me this is awesome as solves several of the problems I was thinking an IF72 would fix...

Best $110 I ever spent!

Thanks for the answer! I should have mentioned, though, that my computer geek friend thinks that the LOWEST RESOLUTION POSSIBLE for Windows XP is 800x600... don't ask me why... :confused:

He needs to think again... before you install a video card driver many cards default to 640x480 (VGA) and XP runs fine on that (although many windows don't fit on the screen right).

The driver may prevent lower than 800x600 to be set, but this has nothing to do with XP, it is all in the driver. If that's the case, you may need powerstrip to force certain resolutions.

Also outputting over component may add isses as computers are used to VGA or DVI and some features of DVI and VGA may not be availalbe over component.

Yeah, the 4805 has discrete power on/off and I've been using them on my Harmony for several months. Why did you think you had to go to the IN72 for discrete power codes?

Anyways, its a good idea to mention it again in this thread so people can use these. Macros/activities absolutely need discrete codes.. Toggle power is too error prone.

Here's a plug: if you don't already own a good universal remote, the Harmony is (almost) everything one needs. Get one. I personally don't prefer the 880 (don't like having to keep recharging, cradle is one more thing to have around, and why do I need color?.. But it's a fine choice nevertheless). Others can be had for about $70 in a good sale.
Mine controls every aspect of my HT, every component including the Media PC. Database of codes is extensive enough that I haven't had to learn a SINGLE command from the original remotes.. thoroughly impressed.

I personally don't prefer the 880 (don't like having to keep recharging, cradle is one more thing to have around, and why do I need color?.. But it's a fine choice nevertheless). Others can be had for about $70 in a good sale.
so foobart
which Remote do you have....
and where's the best place to get them?

Notes:
I agree, the less expensive Harmonys are great. You can check Sam's, they carry the old ones for reasonable. I use 659 but there are several models in that range that work.

As for vacuuming the unit, I used ultra clean compressed air from partsexpress.com, runs about $15 for a giant can, working directly in the empty bulb bay. I only needed a portion of it to do the job, still have some left. I varied the location of the vacuum as needed depending upon what I thought the best air flow would be.

I really think if you just try to vacuum directly, or blow compressed air directly in the unit, you're just moving dirt around. By putting shop vac in back of unit and using compressed air to dislodge dirt into the vacuum generated air stream, it seemed to do a very good job of cleaning it out. Again, I had let mine get embarrassingly dirty, probably wouldn't have gone to that extreme otherwise. If your unit is working fine, just clean the filters of the lamp assembly.

Good luck.

I figured at least one person would say something like that, considering all the discussion here regarding the Bravo D1 lately! :D I decided on the Momitsu for several reasons. And so far I am REALLY happy with it. I think I'll need to keep tweaking the custom settings for the 1:1 pixel mapping, though. With the settings I'm using right now, there is a very pronounced "stutter"... or a herki-jerky image... for lack of a better description... when an image is panning side to side or up and down. Based on what I've read, I THINK this has something to do with the refresh rate.


Your stutter problems are probably fron the suspect loader in the Momitsu.
Mine did the same thing until I replaced the loader (easy fix - approx 20 bucks)

Check here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=619493&highlight=momitsu+loader+swap)and here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=429297&highlight=166) for info...

TC

Yeah, the 4805 has discrete power on/off and I've been using them on my Harmony for several months. Why did you think you had to go to the IN72 for discrete power codes?

Anyways, its a good idea to mention it again in this thread so people can use these. Macros/activities absolutely need discrete codes.. Toggle power is too error prone.

Here's a plug: if you don't already own a good universal remote, the Harmony is (almost) everything one needs. Get one. I personally don't prefer the 880 (don't like having to keep recharging, cradle is one more thing to have around, and why do I need color?.. But it's a fine choice nevertheless). Others can be had for about $70 in a good sale.
Mine controls every aspect of my HT, every component including the Media PC. Database of codes is extensive enough that I haven't had to learn a SINGLE command from the original remotes.. thoroughly impressed.

I need to get a universal remote for my infocus 4805, Bravo d1, Oppo and a few others. I was wondering which remote to get for cheap and where to get the remote codes for D1 and oppo. I was about to get the HTM MX-500.

Bennan,
Here's the custom rez settings I use for my Momitsu (courtesy of Mouw), FWIW


HorizFreq----23688-----VertFreq------4795
VideoWith-----0854-----VideoHeight---0480
HSyncTotal----1110-----PreHSync------0044
HSyncActive---0128-----PostHSync-----0084
VSyncTotal----0494-----PreVSync------0001
VSyncActive---0003-----PostVSync-----0010
HSyncPol------0000-----VSyncPol------0000


TC

Re: DVE Calibration disk. On Chapter 13:1 Where the levels of contrast start out at 0% black and then circle in 10% increments to 100% white. Then there are two extra squares that have off setting contrast smaller box's in them. Are those inner squares suppose to represent 10% above Pure black and 10% below Pure white, or are you suppose to adjust you brightness and contrast until the inner square are 1 click away from clipping - in essence making them 1% above Pure black 1% below pure white respectively. My image sure does look great when I treat them as the 1% shade but I think that may be wrong.

Agro1,

How's that x2 lamp holding up so far?

TC

Yeah, the 4805 has discrete power on/off and I've been using them on my Harmony for several months. Why did you think you had to go to the IN72 for discrete power codes?

Anyways, its a good idea to mention it again in this thread so people can use these. Macros/activities absolutely need discrete codes.. Toggle power is too error prone.

Here's a plug: if you don't already own a good universal remote, the Harmony is (almost) everything one needs. Get one. I personally don't prefer the 880 (don't like having to keep recharging, cradle is one more thing to have around, and why do I need color?.. But it's a fine choice nevertheless). Others can be had for about $70 in a good sale.
Mine controls every aspect of my HT, every component including the Media PC. Database of codes is extensive enough that I haven't had to learn a SINGLE command from the original remotes.. thoroughly impressed.

I thought it was because some of the features of the IN72 listed discrete power and discrete screen size as features...

Oddly enough I think I messed something up and now my remote uses toggle again :( Which of the power options is the one for discrete? I don't want to keep accidentally turning it off with the wrong setting.

Only thing I don't like about this remote is the web based programming, makes it easier for the novice but makes it harder for those who don't mind doing everything manually... I liked how my TC100 let me program exactly what I wanted and how directly from my comp....

it really does recognize discrete screen size codes and there is a power on and a power off... there are even functions I didn't think it had like a freeze option!

Maybe I am just slow and didn't see how to do this before but for me this is awesome as solves several of the problems I was thinking an IF72 would fix...



Well, maybe I am slow. I knew about the Freeze option but I did not know it has power on and power off and discrete screen size codes. If you can, please let me know what the EFCs are. The current set of codes which I know are available are attached below.

Well, maybe I am slow. I knew about the Freeze option but I did not know it has power on and power off and discrete screen size codes. If you can, please let me know what the EFCs are. The current set of codes which I know are available are attached below.

I am not sure where to find those codes on the 880... if anyone knows I would be happy to try and pull them.

And I know this isn't a harmony support forum but I figured I would ask since someone might have my exact issue...

How do you add a step to an activity manually? For instance when I select xbox I want the remote to send a 16:9 screen size, but when I switch to TV I want it to set back to Native. I can't figure out how to add this to the activity...

Actually, OBC codes ON=58 and OFF=57 may work. I need to try these. Now to find some possibilities for the direct screen size.

so foobart
which Remote do you have....
and where's the best place to get them?

I have the 628 . Bought for about $60 delivered during Christmas. Hang around ************** hot deals forum and you'll be able to buy everything you need (and don't) for the best prices. I'm sure most people knew that already right?

IMO ************** and avsforum.com are about the only two web sites a guy needs :)

EDIT: append "during most of the day" to the last sentence.. :-)

...Only thing I don't like about this remote is the web based programming, makes it easier for the novice but makes it harder for those who don't mind doing everything manually... I liked how my TC100 let me program exactly what I wanted and how directly from my comp....

Devedander:

I know you've spent the past 8 hours tweaking your 880. If you're currently logged onto the Harmony Web app, please log out. I need to update my 880, but you're hogging my bandwidth. You'll be tweaking for at least another week or two before you arrive at a marginally satisfactory state - or just give up trying to perfect it - so you'll get your chances.

:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

I need to get a universal remote for my infocus 4805, Bravo d1, Oppo and a few others. I was wondering which remote to get for cheap and where to get the remote codes for D1 and oppo. I was about to get the HTM MX-500.

I have seen both the Harmony(a lot) and the MX-500 ( a good bit) in action and what they can do, and I'd recommend a Harmony highly.

While you can do most of what you want with the MX-500, the harmony's activity based model and context based button mapping, programming interface and extensive database is just fantastic.

I was disappointed with it at first because the initial wizard based setup seemed to give a "dumbed" down impression of it's capabilities. But once you figure out all you can do from it's "home page" , there's little you can't get it to do. So spend a little time getting past the dumbed down programming steps and you'll be as impressed as you're with the 4805.

It can't do macros, and it's a minor negative but I haven't really missed them much because it does most of that in a different way through it's activity(I think of this as a "system" as opposed to a "component" view) based approach.

These are for the 4800 and X1, not sure how many work on the 4805. Use at yur own risk.

... And I know this isn't a harmony support forum but I figured I would ask since someone might have my exact issue...

It ain't the D1 mod/support forum either. :p

How do you add a step to an activity manually? For instance when I select xbox I want the remote to send a 16:9 screen size, but when I switch to TV I want it to set back to Native. I can't figure out how to add this to the activity...

1. Log on.
2. For the activity you want to change: "Customize" -> "Run the Setup Wizard Again" OR "Troubleshoot" -> "No, I want to change these settings"
4. Go through the setup process as before (but your current choices will already be activated/chosen, so you basically keep hitting "Netxt")
5. When you get to the final summary page, choose "Yes, but I want to add more control of options and devices for this Activity." -> "Next"
6. "Additional Devices" page: "Save"
7. Keep hitting "Next" until you arrive at "Custom Actions Page". This is where you can add actions for when the activity starts and before it stops (should be pretty intuitive from here.)
8. Update your remote. Try.
9. Works? -> enjoy.
10. No go? Try again.

Web app is just GREAT! Just ask your fellow 880 apologists. :D Who needs instat feedback on trial-and-error experiments?

It ain't the D1 mod/support forum either. :p



1. Log on.
2. For the activity you want to change: "Customize" -> "Run the Setup Wizard Again" OR "Troubleshoot" -> "No, I want to change these settings"
4. Go through the setup process as before (but your current choices will already be activated/chosen, so you basically keep hitting "Netxt")
5. When you get to the final summary page, choose "Yes, but I want to add more control of options and devices for this Activity." -> "Next"
6. "Additional Devices" page: "Save"
7. Keep hitting "Next" until you arrive at "Custom Actions Page". This is where you can add actions for when the activity starts and before it stops (should be pretty intuitive from here.)
8. Update your remote. Try.
9. Works? -> enjoy.
10. No go? Try again.

Web app is just GREAT! Just ask your fellow 880 apologists. :D Who needs instat feedback on trial-and-error experiments?


Thanks!! Whenever I got to the Additional Devices page I had assumed that was it and gave up!

Still getting used to this remote and it's definitely nice. Just wish they had put that activities button somewhere else becuase it's something you have to hit pretty often and it's in a realld odd place that leads to a lot of finger prints all over the screen :(

I have seen both the Harmony(a lot) and the MX-500 ( a good bit) in action and what they can do, and I'd recommend a Harmony highly.

While you can do most of what you want with the MX-500, the harmony's activity based model and context based button mapping, programming interface and extensive database is just fantastic.


The cheapest I can find the MX-500 is 83.00 shipped and I found the Harmony 628 for 55 shipped. So I think I'll jump on the 628 after a little bit of research and reading. Do you find the backlighting on the 628 bright enough for easily see the buttons in the dark theater room?

The cheapest I can find the MX-500 is 83.00 shipped and I found the Harmony 628 for 55 shipped. So I think I'll jump on the 628 after a little bit of research and reading. Do you find the backlighting on the 628 bright enough for easily see the buttons in the dark theater room?

More than fine in a pitch dark room watching the PJ. The glow button has a little raised mark you can feel so you can find it with touch. Well thought.

If you can, get the 659 (?) if its just a few bucks more. It has a couple of more buttons. But the positioning of the transport buttons (play etc) is at the bottom in the 659 which people don't like sometimes. Either one is a fine choice.

I am getting ready to ceiling mount my 4805. I have the 4805 calculator, but should I go with short or long throw. What's the difference???

Check out the eBay listing for item #9705107808! :eek:

Only $300 for the box that the 4805 came in! What a steal. Wonder if he'd sell me the plastic bag the accessories came in for another $200? :confused:

I am getting ready to ceiling mount my 4805. I have the 4805 calculator, but should I go with short or long throw. What's the difference???

I set mine up on the short end at first but found that didn't leave me any room for fine tuning, so after a couple of months I finally moved it back a foot and now have plenty of focus adjusting.
I would put in the middle of the two measurements.

Check out the eBay listing for item #9705107808! :eek:

Only $300 for the box that the 4805 came in! What a steal. Wonder if he'd sell me the plastic bag the accessories came in for another $200? :confused:

I thought it was funny so I sent him this question:

Does this include the foam packaging material and plastic bag the projector came in as well? Is the box still taped into a box shape or is it folded flat? Can you tell me how this compares to the box that the new model (IN72) comes in? Is there any quality difference? Any other info you can provide me? Thanks!

Davedander,

That's awesome. You made it sound like you were 100% serious. Let us know if he replies. He's probably salivating at the thought that you might actually buy it. :)

I thought it was funny so I sent him this question:

Does this include the foam packaging material and plastic bag the projector came in as well? Is the box still taped into a box shape or is it folded flat? Can you tell me how this compares to the box that the new model (IN72) comes in? Is there any quality difference? Any other info you can provide me? Thanks!

LOL I sent him one 2 hours after I saw it listed and mine was lets just say not very pleasant. What a loser.

Is it OK to mount a piece of MDF directly to the top of the chassis? I am planning a ceiling mount and need to get the image as high as possible. I would take a piece of 1/2 inch MDF and run bolts through the MDF into the chassis. Then I would take the the piece of MDF and attach it to a ceiling joist for a secure mount. I could use washers to adjust yaw, tilt, etc. I am wondering if this would compromise cooling, or maybe the light beam would reflect off the ceiling or something else bad with this tight set up. It just seems to be the most efficient way to decrease my lens to ceiling distance. I think I have seen this type of mount in an image on the forums but haven't been able to hit it again with a search.

If this will not work, any suggestions for an ultra tight lens to ceiling mount would be appreciated. Would need to be DIY, Thanks.

Oh My God HELP!! my new 4805 got problem!
« on: Today at 03:51:22 »

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1) Just bought component cables, Belden 1694a with RCA crimp, 7metres. is it too long and will it have video interference?

2) Got my newly exchanged PJ Infocus SP4805.

Both items are just acquired today, so when i got home cannot tahan plug the component cables into my 4805.

Problem
------------
I demoed T2 Extreme Edition. Everything looks perfect! skin tones, blacks, details are excellent. Suddenly, at the beginning < future war scene where the Cyberdyne Aircraft crash with big explosion
> , the whole picture JUMPED UPWARDS outside alightment (best i can describe is it looks like bad TV signal reception) & instantly after that the picture is GONE! Within 1-2 secs, the lower left message appears "Searching for Connection" and the PICTURE came right back.

I thought its the T2 DVD fault, so never thought much. I demoed SW III , the scene < Right after Order 66 Jedi Massacre , the explosion of DRIOD TANK > , the same thing happens! Jump upwards , cannot detection connection, in 1-2 secs detect connection again, continue to play movie.

I suspect the PICTURE Jump Problem happens with Big Explosions! Now really scratching my head.

Tested the following:
- i tried with two different DVD Players, the problem happens at the exact same scene , exact timeframe. When i unplug the component cables, and plug with S-video, No Jump anymore and runs smoothly.
- Plug the component Cable into my LCD 32" TV, no picture jump.

Suspect most probably PJ's component ports got problem, or maybe component cables?

anyone encounter this before? Really need help here

Oh My God HELP!! my new 4805 got problem!
« on: Today at 03:51:22 »

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1) Just bought component cables, Belden 1694a with RCA crimp, 7metres. is it too long and will it have video interference?

2) Got my newly exchanged PJ Infocus SP4805.

Both items are just acquired today, so when i got home cannot tahan plug the component cables into my 4805.

Problem
------------
I demoed T2 Extreme Edition. Everything looks perfect! skin tones, blacks, details are excellent. Suddenly, at the beginning < future war scene where the Cyberdyne Aircraft crash with big explosion
> , the whole picture JUMPED UPWARDS outside alightment (best i can describe is it looks like bad TV signal reception) & instantly after that the picture is GONE! Within 1-2 secs, the lower left message appears "Searching for Connection" and the PICTURE came right back.

I thought its the T2 DVD fault, so never thought much. I demoed SW III , the scene < Right after Order 66 Jedi Massacre , the explosion of DRIOD TANK > , the same thing happens! Jump upwards , cannot detection connection, in 1-2 secs detect connection again, continue to play movie.

I suspect the PICTURE Jump Problem happens with Big Explosions! Now really scratching my head.

Tested the following:
- i tried with two different DVD Players, the problem happens at the exact same scene , exact timeframe. When i unplug the component cables, and plug with S-video, No Jump anymore and runs smoothly.
- Plug the component Cable into my LCD 32" TV, no picture jump.

Suspect most probably PJ's component ports got problem, or maybe component cables?

anyone encounter this before? Really need help here

Try adjusting the "sync threshold" slider in the advanced picture settings. I'm guessing the 4805 thinks it's losing a signal when there's a sudden flash of white/black.

I thought it was funny so I sent him this question:

Does this include the foam packaging material and plastic bag the projector came in as well? Is the box still taped into a box shape or is it folded flat? Can you tell me how this compares to the box that the new model (IN72) comes in? Is there any quality difference? Any other info you can provide me? Thanks!


I just asked him if he shipped the box in another box.

Check out the eBay listing for item #9705107808! :eek:

Only $300 for the box that the 4805 came in! What a steal. Wonder if he'd sell me the plastic bag the accessories came in for another $200? :confused:

Some dummy has now bid on the item! :eek: Im debating on whether or not to send him a message telling him about it, or to let him pay the amount as punishment for not reading the listing. :confused:

Some dummy has now bid on the item! :eek: Im debating on whether or not to send him a message telling him about it, or to let him pay the amount as punishment for not reading the listing. :confused:
Anyone who bids on something like that without reading it carefully deserves to part with his money.

On the other hand, I hate to see deceptive people prosper...

scooterboy,
I do and do not agree. I know when I was hunting for the perfect 4805 for the perfect price I had read the description so many times I could repeat it in my sleep.
This loser is counting on just that by couching the specs for the item within the description of the pj.
On the other hand, the item title is pretty clear.
A fool and his money are soon parted, and I was parted from more than $400.00 when not being careful. Although I wasn't trying to buy a box! Lol.

There's now more than 1 bidder. I'm sure there will be more. :confused: When the XBox 360 came out, I recall there being ALOT of scams like this one for listing just the (display) boxes. If I remember correctly, eBay cracked down on them, but I'm sure many got away with it and just "took the money and ran".

scooterboy,
I do and do not agree. I know when I was hunting for the perfect 4805 for the perfect price I had read the description so many times I could repeat it in my sleep.
This loser is counting on just that by couching the specs for the item within the description of the pj.
On the other hand, the item title is pretty clear.
A fool and his money are soon parted, and I was parted from more than $400.00 when not being careful. Although I wasn't trying to buy a box! Lol.
I absolutely think that these sellers are being deliberately deceptive, the auctions should be pulled, and the seller's accounts closed by ebay.

That said, anyone that's going to bid a significant amount of money on any auction item should read the description very carefully. If they fail to do that, then I'm sorry but they must bear part of the responsibility.

JMHO, and I'm sorry that you got fooled. :(

Hi,
I have a ceiling mounted 4805 connected to an Onkyo a/v receiver by a 25' s-video cable (for now). A Sony DVD player is hooked to the a/v receiver and all works fine. However, when I plug in my camcorder through composite cable to the a/v receiver and switch video to it, the 4805 displays a "signal out of range" message and a blank screen.
The camcorder works fine connected similarly to the TV so no problems at that end.
Any suggestions? I connected the dvd player to the receiver via composite too and that still works fine. If the svideo cable to projector works for one input on the receiver, why won't it work for all other inputs?

Asim.

I absolutely think that these sellers are being deliberately deceptive, the auctions should be pulled, and the seller's accounts closed by ebay.

That said, anyone that's going to bid a significant amount of money on any auction item should read the description very carefully. If they fail to do that, then I'm sorry but they must bear part of the responsibility.

JMHO, and I'm sorry that you got fooled. :(

Why are you guys NOT reporting the loser to EBAY? Is this like a traffic accident waiting to happen waiting to see if a worse loser actually buys a box?

Why are you guys NOT reporting the loser to EBAY? Is this like a traffic accident waiting to happen waiting to see if a worse loser actually buys a box?I just emailed both the bidders...How stupid can they be...I would report the scam artist...but he states he's only selling the box...ebay would probably do nothing.

That's a pretty deceptive auction and considering how paypal works the buyers would get a refund no problem (paypal almost always favors the buyer, even if he says he never recieved but seller has singature confirmation to the confirmed paypal address often paypal will still refund at the sellers expense).

The ebay auctions for xbox boxes and such almost always clearly stated "This is the box only and not the console" just to avoid being scams, this guy does not and it's clearly missleading so I am not too worried bout the prospective buyers.

I guess spiderman is popular but I am pretty sure someone on here used that exact spot in the film for screenies they posted...

Hi,
I have a ceiling mounted 4805 connected to an Onkyo a/v receiver by a 25' s-video cable (for now). A Sony DVD player is hooked to the a/v receiver and all works fine. However, when I plug in my camcorder through composite cable to the a/v receiver and switch video to it, the 4805 displays a "signal out of range" message and a blank screen.
The camcorder works fine connected similarly to the TV so no problems at that end.
Any suggestions? I connected the dvd player to the receiver via composite too and that still works fine. If the svideo cable to projector works for one input on the receiver, why won't it work for all other inputs?

Asim.

Plug your dvd player via composite to the same exact input you plugged the camcorder into on the receiver and see if that works. It sounds like it may be an issue with the receiver.

Why are you guys NOT reporting the loser to EBAY? Is this like a traffic accident waiting to happen waiting to see if a worse loser actually buys a box?

I did report him to ebay 5 days ago when I saw it come on Ebay. I sent him a He better hide behind his computer type of very nasty to say the least email. He emailed back like he was confused. I don't know why Ebay didn't kill the listing or give him a call, why is it still there. He's just trying to steal $300 frpm a novice purchaser. Worthless.

It's now about $450. I wish people would be more careful.

I just read where someone mentioned the "Sync Threshold Adjust" setting. This sounds like it might help a problem I'm having. Can someone tell me what the values do? What happens if you increase or decrease them? I looked at Ja Phule's FAQ but it doesn't say how to use this.

Thanks.

-Dan

Why are you guys NOT reporting the loser to EBAY? Is this like a traffic accident waiting to happen waiting to see if a worse loser actually buys a box?

I reported him too and the rep did nothing but link me to leave an email, which I did. Oh well...it will be interesting to see how high it goes at least. I can just see him now; sitting in the dark, wringing his greedy little hands, drooling over how high it's getting, thinking about how clever he is and how moronic the bidders are. :mad: :mad: :mad:

I connected the dvd player to the receiver via composite too and that still works fine.. Did you also disconnect the S-Video from the DVD when you tried it's composite cable? Most receivers (unless you have one that specifically upconverts composite to S-Video) pass "Composite in" to "Monitor Composite out" and "S-Video in" to "Monitor S-Video out" but not "composite in" to "Monitor S-Video out". (or S-Video in to monitor composite out)

I reported him too and the rep did nothing but link me to leave an email, which I did. Oh well...it will be interesting to see how high it goes at least. I can just see him now; sitting in the dark, wringing his greedy little hands, drooling over how high it's getting, thinking about how clever he is and how moronic the bidders are. :mad: :mad: :mad:

Man thats bad when you get a live person and they just blow it off. I mean one look at it and you see it's a fraud. They should delete it now and email the bidders leting them know it was a fraud, and making the bidders feel that Ebay is really looking out for them. I have a feeling those bidders are false and just making sure they win it so they won't send him the money, and will get the negitive feed back removed once ebay see's what the deal is. But ebay seems cluless right now.

$455.00! Congratulations to "simple_electronics" for winning the 4805 box! I wonder if he'd buy mine for a bargain price of $400? I'll even give AVS members a special deal...my box for only $300. That's $100 off! :rolleyes:

Congratulations to "simple_electronics" for winning the 4805 box!He probably doesn't even know the good news yet! He hasn't gotten up for breakfast yet in Australia.

I'll even give AVS members a special deal...my box for only $300. That's $100 off!

I wasn't interested until I read this! What about Club members? Will they get even better pricing? Maybe I can put it in the attic next to my box so it won't get lonely!

I just read where someone mentioned the "Sync Threshold Adjust" setting. This sounds like it might help a problem I'm having. Can someone tell me what the values do? What happens if you increase or decrease them? I looked at Ja Phule's FAQ but it doesn't say how to use this.

Thanks.

-Dan

I think it's basically adjusting the sensitivity of the 4805 to locking onto the signal. I've also noticed sometimes I get some slight horizontal artifacts in the picture at 1080i on my xbox and by adjusting this it fixes it.

$455.00! Congratulations to "simple_electronics" for winning the 4805 box! I wonder if he'd buy mine for a bargain price of $400? I'll even give AVS members a special deal...my box for only $300. That's $100 off! :rolleyes:


One can presume "simple electroncs" is wise to the scam by now and will be sending an empty envelope for payment.

I wasn't interested until I read this! What about Club members? Will they get even better pricing? Maybe I can put it in the attic next to my box so it won't get lonely!

Ohhh, I forgot about Club Members! For you I will throw in, absolutely free, the shipping label on the outside of the box! Call now...operators are standing by. :D

ebay Item number: 9704371045 ended unsuccessfully. Guess no one jumped on to that bandwagon with their exclusive D1 Mark II.

Alright,

I went from the initial 1.02 firmware to the new 1.3.2 firmware, and I am a little concerned.

Here is my story, I updated the firmware the day it came out. A few hours later, we had a terrible thunderstorm and the power to my house went out (My projector was hard-powered off already, but still plugged into the wall. No surge protector-Yes I know, I am an idiot with no surge protector, but I learned my lesson.)

Ever since then I have been noticing two things. My projector fan is a LOT louder then it used to be. Once in a while I will here the fan quiet down for a few minutes before ramping up again.

I also noticed much different startup sounds. With the new firmware, it seems to go through three different sounds when turning on, where the old firmware only seemed to make two different sounds when turning on.

Is any of this normal? I cleaned my lamp filter to make sure that it was not the issue. I am running my unit in low power mode. Another problem is that I do not know if the projector changes are related to the firmware, or to the thunderstorm.

Any help or advice would be great.

Alright,

I went from the initial 1.02 firmware to the new 1.3.2 firmware, and I am a little concerned.

Here is my story, I updated the firmware the day it came out. A few hours later, we had a terrible thunderstorm and the power to my house went out (My projector was hard-powered off already, but still plugged into the wall. No surge protector-Yes I know, I am an idiot with no surge protector, but I learned my lesson.)

Ever since then I have been noticing two things. My projector fan is a LOT louder then it used to be. Once in a while I will here the fan quiet down for a few minutes before ramping up again.

I also noticed much different startup sounds. With the new firmware, it seems to go through three different sounds when turning on, where the old firmware only seemed to make two different sounds when turning on.

Is any of this normal? I cleaned my lamp filter to make sure that it was not the issue. I am running my unit in low power mode. Another problem is that I do not know if the projector changes are related to the firmware, or to the thunderstorm.

Any help or advice would be great.

I can tell you that my start up noise is different- when I hard power on, everything comes on as normal, but the fan sort of surges up to high and then drops to normal, and after that it's all the same.

Don't know if that helps, though. . .

Wes

Sometimes, but not very often, when I hard power on I get the high fan, then low, then there's no "beep" and I don't get a picture at all. I shut it off and will always get the beeping on the second try. Is this normal? Why does this happen sometimes?

I figured at least one person would say something like that, considering all the discussion here regarding the Bravo D1 lately! :D I decided on the Momitsu for several reasons. And so far I am REALLY happy with it. I think I'll need to keep tweaking the custom settings for the 1:1 pixel mapping, though. With the settings I'm using right now, there is a very pronounced "stutter"... or a herki-jerky image... for lack of a better description... when an image is panning side to side or up and down. Based on what I've read, I THINK this has something to do with the refresh rate.


You are exactly right that your refresh rates are not matching up. Search the forum for Momitsu settings that will get you either 47.952Hz, 59.94Hz, or 71.928Hz. Any of these refresh rates will rid you of that annoying stutter.

I would also recomend that you set your RGB gains to 58, RGB offsets to 28.5, gamma set to film, color temp to 6500K, the Momitsu at all defaults, except for the color/tint, which you can set with Avia or DVE.

As for your desktop, can you set it up with VGA instead?

Why are you guys NOT reporting the loser to EBAY? Is this like a traffic accident waiting to happen waiting to see if a worse loser actually buys a box?

Everybody loves to watch a train wreck, so long as they're not on the train. It's not about right and wrong anymore, it's how high it gets in the ratings. The more bidders here, the better the ratings.

Now if you wanna see a model Ebayer... check out the feedbacks for Ebay user:
clams_canino :D

-W

Hi,guys..i have my pj hooked up to a JVC dvd player with component wires,,,whats the proper color level,,gain,etc for this ..i'm new here,,so sorry for the silly quetion

Hi,guys..i have my pj hooked up to a JVC dvd player with component wires,,,whats the proper color level,,gain,etc for this ..i'm new here,,so sorry for the silly quetion

Welcome to the forum. :)

Adjust brightness/contrast/saturation with a calibration dvd like AVIA, Digital Video Essentials, or THX Optimode. The gains/offsets numbers you see being discussed here are for the dvi/hdmi sources only. I woudln't recommend touching gains/offsets unless you have the proper tools and measuring equipment and you know what you're doing.

i have my pj hooked up to a JVC dvd player with component wires,,,whats the proper color level,,gain,etc for thisYou can calibrate it using DVE, Avia or THX but you're pretty safe setting everything to factory defaults. InFocus does an excellent job "out-of-the-box"!

but you're pretty safe setting everything to factory defaults. InFocus does an excellent job "out-of-the-box"!

He REALLY SHOULD GET A CALIBRATION DISC and not just rely on defalts. Don't think defalts are good enough.. - HAHAHA Gottca. :p jk

Is it OK to mount a piece of MDF directly to the top of the chassis? I am planning a ceiling mount and need to get the image as high as possible. I would take a piece of 1/2 inch MDF and run bolts through the MDF into the chassis. Then I would take the the piece of MDF and attach it to a ceiling joist for a secure mount. I could use washers to adjust yaw, tilt, etc. I am wondering if this would compromise cooling, or maybe the light beam would reflect off the ceiling or something else bad with this tight set up. It just seems to be the most efficient way to decrease my lens to ceiling distance. I think I have seen this type of mount in an image on the forums but haven't been able to hit it again with a search.

If this will not work, any suggestions for an ultra tight lens to ceiling mount would be appreciated. Would need to be DIY, Thanks.

Is it OK to mount a piece of MDF directly to the top of the chassis? I am planning a ceiling mount and need to get the image as high as possible. I would take a piece of 1/2 inch MDF and run bolts through the MDF into the chassis. Then I would take the the piece of MDF and attach it to a ceiling joist for a secure mount. I could use washers to adjust yaw, tilt, etc. I am wondering if this would compromise cooling, or maybe the light beam would reflect off the ceiling or something else bad with this tight set up. It just seems to be the most efficient way to decrease my lens to ceiling distance. I think I have seen this type of mount in an image on the forums but haven't been able to hit it again with a search.

If this will not work, any suggestions for an ultra tight lens to ceiling mount would be appreciated. Would need to be DIY, Thanks.

I think you are supposed to leave a few inches on all sides if possible. I know if it was right side up it would probably be sitting on a table in similar fashion, however upside down I would be worried bout heat collecting around it.

Gunnur,
I just wanted to clarify in addition to what Devedander mentioned. When you ceiling mount the 4805, you will be needing to flip the projector over, meaning the bottom of the projector will be facing towards the ceiling and this is what you will be attached to the mdf in your case. I'm not sure if that's what you meant but I wanted to clarify that just in case. The 4805 has a vertical offset, so if you are projecting the 4805 from around 8 ft from your floor, for example, the top of the image will probably be around 7ft as the image is projected at an angle and not straight ahead.

hi,folks...um,,where can i purchase a calibration dvd?..I know on some dvd's,,like the star wars ones,,they have a thx optimizer..is this the same thing?

Yes, THX optimode is available in every THX dvd. You can find AVIA and Digital Video Essentials from most online dvd retailers like amazon and dvdempire.

um..I made a booboo,and played with my gains and offsets levels....Where should I reset them to?..again thanks ,people for ur assistance.. :)

Set your gains/offsets to the default of 50.

um..I made a booboo,and played with my gains and offsets levels....Where should I reset them to?..again thanks ,people for ur assistance.. :)

Contrast at 100, Brightness at 100, color temp at 8500k, gains at 100, offsets at 0, gamma at bright room 2, white peaking at 100, ...that will certainly get you a great pic! Oh, yeah, and be sure to set the PJ 62.3 degrees to the left of the screen. ;)

Hey guys,
haven't posted here in quite some time but could use some advice. My house was broken into yesterday and it seems my 4805 was the main target. They unplugged all the cables and took them as well as grabbing the remote for it. Unfortunately it was only table mounted so it was quite easy.

I'm going to be replacing it and was just wondering if there is a new "best bang for the buck" out there. I would be happy to replace it with another 4805 but want some opinions first. SOmething with a longer throw would be nice, but not necessary.

Thanks,
Mark

I've just received my Newegg D1. I've changed the capsWhat do you mean "changed the caps"??!!

There is only one you need to change.

Hey guys,
haven't posted here in quite some time but could use some advice. My house was broken into yesterday and it seems my 4805 was the main target. They unplugged all the cables and took them as well as grabbing the remote for it. Unfortunately it was only table mounted so it was quite easy.

I'm going to be replacing it and was just wondering if there is a new "best bang for the buck" out there. I would be happy to replace it with another 4805 but want some opinions first. SOmething with a longer throw would be nice, but not necessary.

Thanks,
Mark

Infocus has replaced the 4805 with the Infocus Big Play IN72 which is in a nicer case, more refined build, and is much quieter. 720p displays are quite cheap now, with 720p DLPs within the 2k-3k range including the Infocus Big Play IN76, Mits 3000, and Optoma HD72. LCDs are also getting cheaper and performing well for under 2k such as the Panny ae900.

hi,folks...um,,where can i purchase a calibration dvd?..I know on some dvd's,,like the star wars ones,,they have a thx optimizer..is this the same thing?

You should buy this one it's the best IMHO! GetGray Digital Video Calibration Pro (http://www.calibrate.tv/) It has all the patterns you could want. GetGray is a member of avsforum. If there are any changes to the Disk you can upgrade for free. Doesn't get any better than that!

Hey guys,
haven't posted here in quite some time but could use some advice. My house was broken into yesterday and it seems my 4805 was the main target. They unplugged all the cables and took them as well as grabbing the remote for it. Unfortunately it was only table mounted so it was quite easy.

I'm going to be replacing it and was just wondering if there is a new "best bang for the buck" out there. I would be happy to replace it with another 4805 but want some opinions first. SOmething with a longer throw would be nice, but not necessary.

Thanks,
Mark

Sorry to hear about the break in. I would be very upset had it happend to me. Woot.com just had some new 4805's for a good price. May want to see if you can get one from them. Also, think about also getting a D1 DVD player to go along with it before they are gone. A few online retailers have them now (read a few pages back). Good luck!

Nice, thanks for the tips Ja Phule. THe IN72 is a very nice looking unit. I think 720p may still be out of reach.