I am expecting my 4805 today or tommorw and will be picking up a hd cable box from comcast. My question is how will I be hooking up the cable box and the DVD player? I have read that the best way to hook the cable up is to use the m1 output with the adapter but how do I hook the dvd player up? Should I be running component cables to the projector from the dvd player and the DVI cable from the cable box? Sorry about the dumb questions but I'm very new to this stuff just trying to get my cables ordered so I am not sitting to long without being able to use the new toy.

I am expecting my 4805 today or tommorw and will be picking up a hd cable box from comcast. My question is how will I be hooking up the cable box and the DVD player? I have read that the best way to hook the cable up is to use the m1 output with the adapter but how do I hook the dvd player up? Should I be running component cables to the projector from the dvd player and the DVI cable from the cable box? Sorry about the dumb questions but I'm very new to this stuff just trying to get my cables ordered so I am not sitting to long without being able to use the new toy.

You can connect your hd box via component or hdmi/dvi (but you will need an m1 adapter in order to do this). You can connect your dvd player via component. If you want to use more than one component connection (ie, dvd player and hd box), then you will need a component switch box or a receiver that can do component switching. DVD players are also using hdmi/dvi currently also and those too can be connected to the m1 (with adatper).

I am interested in picking up a nice dvd player to add to my 4805. Either the Oppo or the Bravo. Right now I just have an average JVC dvd that I have plugged into the 4805 via component video.

My question is this: Is it really worth it? I picked up an HD tuner, and WOW what a difference that makes when compared with analog.

Now I am not expecting nearly as drastic a change in PQ, but what I do need is enough of a change in PQ for the wife to say, “Cool, I can defiantly see a difference.” If she cannot see a difference, then I might be in some trouble. What do you guys think. Any screenshots of an Oppo or Bravo compared to the same image on a standard $80.00 sears dvd player?

but what I do need is enough of a change in PQ for the wife to say, “Cool, I can defiantly see a difference.” If she cannot see a difference, then I might be in some trouble.

I say get the Bravo. I connected mine 2 days ago and even though I thought the PQ on my original Onkyo DVD player was excellent, my wife said that the Bravo looked 3D :D

Set up my 4805 with my HTPC. it is a new Athalon 64 3200 and a 6150 Motherboard. I am using Theater Tek but was wondering if I should also use Powerstrip or FFDshow as well.

Which one of these two programs is better to use with the 4805?

I am also capturing s video from my satellite box which does not look that good. I hear that FFDshow would help this as well.

Thx

Scott:

I have the exact same set-up and use ffdshow with TheaterTek and man it rocks.
Check out http://forums.anandtech.com/messageview.aspx?catid=29&threadid=1803985&enterthread=y There is a lot of great info that helped me with my set-up. I did overclock some, and have had no problems with skips or stutters during playback. Also, check out the forum at Theatertek, there is a very simple how to that is a sticky, that gives recommended settings fot Theatertek with ffdshow.

Any screenshots of an Oppo or Bravo compared to the same image on a standard $80.00 sears dvd player?

Does Sears even sell $80 DVD players? If so, they're overcharging. For that price, you could get the Bravo D1. (Or in my case, 3 of them. :D )

If you want to use more than one component connection (ie, dvd player and hd box), then you will need a component switch box or a receiver that can do component switching.
Or simply get an M1/component adapter, which will result in having two component inputs on the 4805.

So can I get a HDMI to M1 cable form monoprice and run that from my dvd player to the 4805 and then run a componet cable from the cable box to the 4805?

So can I get a HDMI to M1 cable form monoprice and run that from my dvd player to the 4805 and then run a componet cable from the cable box to the 4805?

If your dvd player has HDMI then yes.

I am thinking about getting HD from dish, can anyone comment on how the SD channels look on the 4805 once they are connected using the HDMI---->M1 cable from the HD receiver, I know the HD channels would look stunning as many have mentioned.

But, I mean what about SD, do they look better than on S-video? I currently connect the SD Dish DVR using S-video to 4805 and it looks mediocre. Will that change with the upgrade or does the change only affect HD channels?

I am betting on the fact that it is better connection and that HD receiver may not compress the SD channels as much as a regular receiver.

I am thinking about getting HD from dish, can anyone comment on how the SD channels look on the 4805 once they are connected using the HDMI---->M1 cable from the HD receiver, I know the HD channels would look stunning as many have mentioned.

But, I mean what about SD, do they look better than on S-video? I currently connect the SD Dish DVR using S-video to 4805 and it looks mediocre. Will that change with the upgrade or does the change only affect HD channels?

I am betting on the fact that it is better connection and that HD receiver may not compress the SD channels as much as a regular receiver.

Don't get your hopes up. The digital connection will pass the signal better, but SD will still be SD.

Using hdmi for SD, would mean that the dish receiver will be scaling and deinterlacing the SD content, likely to be not as good as the 4805's deinterlacing/scaling...

Okay, I'm officially confused. Cavu, whom is a trusted source for information, said that he uses the same DVI cable for the Comcast 6412 and the Bravo D1 and moves it back and forth by hand. One would assume that a dish receiver would work similar to a cable box, correct? So what connections ARE everyone using for cable and dish boxes? Am I to assume that I'm supposed to use component for cable and DVI for Bravo D1? OR...am I supposed to get a switcher and run DVI/hdmi for both???

Okay, I'm officially confused. Cavu, whom is a trusted source for information, said that he uses the same DVI cable for the Comcast 6412 and the Bravo D1 and moves it back and forth by hand. One would assume that a dish receiver would work similar to a cable box, correct? So what connections ARE everyone using for cable and dish boxes? Am I to assume that I'm supposed to use component for cable and DVI for Bravo D1? OR...am I supposed to get a switcher and run DVI/hdmi for both???

I am in the same predicament and currently trying to justify the monoprice 5x1 HDMI switch. Almost about to pull the trigger since my HDTV OTA receiver does not look as sharp using components.

I am in the same predicament and currently trying to justify the monoprice 5x1 HDMI switchI couldn't bear the idea of spending money on an HDMI/DVI switch when I knew I would be upgrading my AV receiver shortly.

But it looks like my decision is being deferred in that my new IN72 will have TWO digital inputs. ;)

I am in the same predicament and currently trying to justify the monoprice 5x1 HDMI switch. Almost about to pull the trigger since my HDTV OTA receiver does not look as sharp using components.

I still think I might just suffer with manual switching/moving the cable until the monoprice $28 box comes in. I can't justify >$100 for a swith box when I'll upgrade my PJ or receiver soon either.

HOWEVER, this still doesn't answer what I was trying to get at in regard to the statement by Ja Phule: "Using hdmi for SD, would mean that the dish receiver will be scaling and deinterlacing the SD content, likely to be not as good as the 4805's deinterlacing/scaling..."

So, does this mean that if I use hdmi cable for a Comcast DCT6412 then HD programs will look even more fantastic, but SD programs will actually look much worse?

So, does this mean that if I use hdmi cable for a Comcast DCT6412 then HD programs will look even more fantastic, but SD programs will actually look much worse?

Actually, I have seen that to be the case. I bought a monoprice HDMI cable for a friend and when we hooked it up to his DirecTV H10 receiver, the SD content actually did look worst but the HD much better.

I couldn't bear the idea of spending money on an HDMI/DVI switch when I knew I would be upgrading my AV receiver shortly.

But it looks like my decision is being deferred in that my new IN72 will have TWO digital inputs. ;)

Cavu, once you get the IN72 and get used to it's quirks etc, please post an in depth comparison with the 4805. It would by nice to hear an A-B comparisin by someone who has a critical eye.

-W

I still think I might just suffer with manual switching/moving the cable until the monoprice $28 box comes in. I can't justify >$100 for a swith box when I'll upgrade my PJ or receiver soon either.

HOWEVER, this still doesn't answer what I was trying to get at in regard to the statement by Ja Phule: "Using hdmi for SD, would mean that the dish receiver will be scaling and deinterlacing the SD content, likely to be not as good as the 4805's deinterlacing/scaling..."

So, does this mean that if I use hdmi cable for a Comcast DCT6412 then HD programs will look even more fantastic, but SD programs will actually look much worse?

I'm using my HD cable box over component. I've done DVI vs component for HD and I don't see much of a difference to tell you the truth. HD still looks great over component. There's also been issues with the HDCP handshake on some boxes (which I've experience on mine) over dvi/hdmi which gave me more reason to just use component.

I just realized as I was comparing Avia to the THX optimizer, that the settings were very close. The contrast on Avia and THX both ended up at 40, while the brightness was off by just two. I was testing the Lion King DVD, which has absolutely amazing colors and sound (the Disney HT mix is crazy).

I haven't messed around with the tints, because I don't have the filters for Avia, but I'm thinking it won't matter much, since I'm using the 58/29 settings. BTW, how are they set to 28.5? They only go up or down by whole number values?

Either way, I'm thrilled with this but wouldn't mind making some nice final touches.

BTW, how big of a difference will a border/frame make? I know they add to aesthetic purposes...and in my case, being that the walls are white (and unfortunately a bit reflective), I would assume they'll help block light spillage...But how thick and wide should the borders be? If anyone can give ideas, it'd be appreciated. I'll likely go to a crafts store and get velvet then, which I've noticed some to be using. But I was wonder if a wood frame is necessary, or if I could just use an adhesive to attach the velvet or other material to the piece of painted dry wall I'm using.

What dvd player are you using and how do you have it connected to the 4805?

I'm using my HD cable box over component. I've done DVI vs component for HD and I don't see much of a difference to tell you the truth. HD still looks great over component.

Same here... Component for my HD sat and DVI for the HTPC.

What dvd player are you using and how do you have it connected to the 4805?

connection through my PC using the powerstrip numbers on the FAQ. I'm running TheaterTek for my DVD program.

fujiyama,
I was under the impression that with an HTPC set up, your brightness/contrast should stay at 50/50 when perfectly calibrated with gain/offset at 58/28.5 as long as you are using VMR9.

When you are adjusting your offsets in the menu, you should notice that you will need to do some additional up/down presses for it to go up and down a number, it's not that the 4805 was not receiving the command, but it's because there is indeed an extra step (or 2) when going from one number to another. if you're at 29 in offset, you will need to press down once or twice to get it to 28.5 (depending if you were actually at 29 or 29.5). So in order to get 28.5, you will need to be at the point where you are at 29, press down once, and it goes to 28 (which is actually 28.5).

fujiyama,
I was under the impression that with an HTPC set up, your brightness/contrast should stay at 50/50 when perfectly calibrated with gain/offset at 58/28.5 as long as you are using VMR9.

When you are adjusting your offsets in the menu, you should notice that you will need to do some additional up/down presses for it to go up and down a number, it's not that the 4805 was not receiving the command, but it's because there is indeed an extra step (or 2) when going from one number to another. if you're at 29 in offset, you will need to press down once or twice to get it to 28.5 (depending if you were actually at 29 or 29.5). So in order to get 28.5, you will need to be at the point where you are at 29, press down once, and it goes to 28 (which is actually 28.5).

For me it may be a factor of light spillage and reflected light since my walls aree a lighter color and I have no bordeer (I am completely light controlled otherwise ) that's causing this or perhaps I am reading the THX and Avia tests wrong. I'll probably look over the tests again to verify. It seems like the deviation is very low regardless...

I'm using my HD cable box over component. I've done DVI vs component for HD and I don't see much of a difference to tell you the truth. HD still looks great over component. There's also been issues with the HDCP handshake on some boxes (which I've experience on mine) over dvi/hdmi which gave me more reason to just use component.


So the SD channels when delivered through component to the 4805 look better than HDMI or S-video, is that a correct assumption?

That creates another problem for me as the receiver only has 2 component inputs and the DVD and the Xbox are using them, got to check out the component switchers or may be upgrade to a D1 and use M1 port to free up a component input........

Scott:

I have the exact same set-up and use ffdshow with TheaterTek and man it rocks.
Check out http://forums.anandtech.com/messageview.aspx?catid=29&threadid=1803985&enterthread=y There is a lot of great info that helped me with my set-up. I did overclock some, and have had no problems with skips or stutters during playback. Also, check out the forum at Theatertek, there is a very simple how to that is a sticky, that gives recommended settings fot Theatertek with ffdshow.

Did you try this setup without ffdshow? If you how much different was the picture when compared the standard output with Theater Tek?

How much did you overclock the pc and did you try it without overclocking?

Thx for the reply.

It was my understanding that the 58/28.5 settings are the correct settings to get the D1/D2 DVD player to the right gamma. I understood it that the SP4805 M1 port was set to PC LEVELS which is why the correction is needed. For any analog inputs I don't think 58/28.5 can be seen as a base setting.

It was my understanding that the 58/28.5 settings are the correct settings to get the D1/D2 DVD player to the right gamma. I understood it that the SP4805 M1 port was set to PC LEVELS which is why the correction is needed. For any analog inputs I don't think 58/28.5 can be seen as a base setting.You are sort of correct.

The SP4805 defaults to PC DVI levels (0-255) while most video equipment uses "Studio" DVI levels (16-235).

The 58/28.5 numbers don't really "correct" anything, they just reset the SP4805 DVI input to "Studio" standard levels suitable for video equipment such as Bravo/Momitsu DVD players and Motorola cable boxes.

When setting the RGB Gains and Offsets while the "Computer" (DVI) input is selected, the analog inputs are not affected and, you are correct, these numbers do not apply to analog inputs.

It was my understanding that the 58/28.5 settings are the correct settings to get the D1/D2 DVD player to the right gamma. I understood it that the SP4805 M1 port was set to PC LEVELS which is why the correction is needed. For any analog inputs I don't think 58/28.5 can be seen as a base setting.

Those settings are suitable for an HTPC as well using DVI out, right?

So the SD channels when delivered through component to the 4805 look better than HDMI or S-video, is that a correct assumption?

That creates another problem for me as the receiver only has 2 component inputs and the DVD and the Xbox are using them, got to check out the component switchers or may be upgrade to a D1 and use M1 port to free up a component input........

Or get the M1 to component adapter. :)

Though I didn't try regular SD over DVI, we have the faroudja processing the image and maybe even cleaning up some of the image over component 480i which seems like more than what the stb would be doing by outputting it at 480p/720p/1080i.

We use the 58/28.5 gain/offset setting when the video input over hdmi/dvi is studio level. This would mean that devices that use studio level dvi (bravo, momitsu, most video devices) or a PC using VMR9 will have video set to studio levels. If you switch between VMR9 and Overlay on a pc, you should see a difference in brightness/contrast as Overlay uses pc dvi levels.

Those settings are suitable for an HTPC as well using DVI out, right?

Not nessasarly. I believe TheaterTek since it is a PC software program - they assume the PC is setup correctly. So TT comes already adjusted to put out studio levels on a PC. So then the 58/28.5 does is not correct gamma but makes TT gamma incorrect. But some PC software does not come with the studio correction gamma set a default(You may be able to find a correct setting in the software). The simplest way to find out is put in a calibration disc. If the Brightness and contrast are at 50/50 while the Gains are at 58/28.5 then it is correct. If the brightness and contrast are way off then set the gains to 50/50 and go back and check brightness and contrast again if the are close to 50/50 B/C then thats the correct setting, use you disc to fine tune. Again there may be a simple option in the software ie.. FILM, or PC or VIDEO that with one click will set everything to 50(confirmed by your calibration disc) you'll just have to play around. I'm headed to HTPC very soon as I love the blanking feature for perfect masking.

Or get the M1 to component adapter. :)


Are you serious? Will the Faroudja be active when you use the adapter, I thought when you used the M1 port it was bypassed.

Can it tell that it is not getting a digital signal eventhough the M1 port is being used?

Are you serious? Will the Faroudja be active when you use the adapter, I thought when you used the M1 port it was bypassed.

Can it tell that it is not getting a digital signal eventhough the M1 port is being used?

Faroudja is not active over the m1. If you were to get the M1 to component adapter to use it as an additional component input, i'd probably put the xbox on that as you will most likely not use it at 480i. Though, I think you'd be headed in the right direction by looking to get a DVI dvd player with m1 to dvi adapter.

Will the Faroudja be active when you use the adapter, I thought when you used the M1 port it was bypassed.That is correct. What that basically means is that you cannot feed 480i/576i through the M1 port.

Progressive signals are OK as the Faroudja doesn't deal with them anyway. For some reason I don't pretend to know, you can feed a 1080i signal to the M1 port.

That is correct. What that basically means is that you cannot feed 480i/576i through the M1 port.


I am not so sure about this, I can put 480i and 1080i through the M1 port with my OTA HDTV Tuner. what difference it makes to the PQ, I don't really see.

Faroudja is not active over the m1. If you were to get the M1 to component adapter to use it as an additional component input, i'd probably put the xbox on that as you will most likely not use it at 480i.


I never thought of that, that is a great tip.

Thanks Ja.

One more question though, does this mean that if I use the regular component port on the 4805 from the HD receiver, the SD channels will be relayed in 480i (which is what we want) and the HD channels will be sent 720P? And then downconverted to 480P by 4805?

Does this happen automatically based on the content or some settings in the HD receiver?

I haven't been able to get the 4805 to see 480i as 480i over the m1. When I feed it a 480i signal, it sees it as something like 720x480 and it would just scale the picture (rather than deinterlacing). Though it could just be my display's output that is not outputting 480i over dvi correctly....

Bennan,
Here's the custom rez settings I use for my Momitsu (courtesy of Mouw), FWIW

HorizFreq----23688-----VertFreq------4795
VideoWith-----0854-----VideoHeight---0480
HSyncTotal----1110-----PreHSync------0044
HSyncActive---0128-----PostHSync-----0084
VSyncTotal----0494-----PreVSync------0001
VSyncActive---0003-----PostVSync-----0010
HSyncPol------0000-----VSyncPol------0000
TC

Thanks for the answer, tcreech! Yes, these are the settings I am using. I also set my RGB gains to 58, RGB offsets to 28.5, gamma is set to film, color temp is at 6500K. But I still occasionally notice the stutter I am describing.

I don't think it is the loader, (which I'm beginning to think I'm going to have to replace anyways). When THAT stutters, the entire image freezes, almost like the player was paused, and the sound drops out, for up to a second.

The stutter I'm describing is only the picture. The sound does not drop out. The picture itself seems to "stick" as the camera pans from side to side or if it zooms in or out. It happens multiple times a second, almost too fast to see except when the whole camera image is moving. It looks almost like frames are dropping out. It mainly happens in the DVD menus or when I'm watching a lower-res image like a TV series... like the 80's Batman: The Animated Series... or the lower-res documentary extras on the discs.

For example, I was TRYING to watch the extras on my Fifth Element: Ultimate Edition disc and they were UNWATCHABLE, horribly "herky jerky" every time the camera panned or zoomed in or out. During the movie, though, I never noticed it. Nor did I notice it while watching Finding Nemo or Toy Story 1 + 2.

Would changing the refresh rate to 59.94Hz or 71.928Hz possibly fix this problem??? And if I change the refresh rates, what other custom settings (like those quoted above) would I have to change??? I assume that changing one number means having to alter some or most of the others. Does someone have the custom res settings for the other two refresh rates???

Also... another question I have about these custom settings: Is there any way that I can "save" them on the Momitsu so that I could toggle back and forth between the custom settings and just standard 480i, for example??? Or do I have to pull up the "secret menu" and manually input the custom settings every time I want to go back to them???

Not nessasarly. I believe TheaterTek since it is a PC software program - they assume the PC is setup correctly. So TT comes already adjusted to put out studio levels on a PC. So then the 58/28.5 does is not correct gamma but makes TT gamma incorrect. But some PC software does not come with the studio correction gamma set a default(You may be able to find a correct setting in the software). The simplest way to find out is put in a calibration disc. If the Brightness and contrast are at 50/50 while the Gains are at 58/28.5 then it is correct. If the brightness and contrast are way off then set the gains to 50/50 and go back and check brightness and contrast again if the are close to 50/50 B/C then thats the correct setting, use you disc to fine tune. Again there may be a simple option in the software ie.. FILM, or PC or VIDEO that with one click will set everything to 50(confirmed by your calibration disc) you'll just have to play around. I'm headed to HTPC very soon as I love the blanking feature for perfect masking.

Not exactly. If TT is set for VMR-9 output (not overlay), and an Nvidia card is at defaults, the the 58/28.5 settings for the PJ outta be dead on.

-W

I am considering getting a 4 x 1 DVI video switcher, so that I can have my computer AND my Momitsu AND an HDTV cable box all hooked up to my 4805.

I currently have my Momitsu putting out its image over DVI. I have a DVI > M1 adapter. Also, I have my computer outputting an image over DVI and I'm using a DVI > component adapter for the projector... but that is causing its own problems for me (see my posts a few pages back). And I'm thinking that I will want to upgrade to digital cable soon so I can start enjoying HDTV. (I know with the 4805 it won't be a TRUE HDTV image, but it should still look great.)

Does anyone have an opinion on the 4 x 1 DVI switcher, model "DRM-1714F" seen here:

http://www.trianglecables.com/m401dvi.html
http://www.audiovisualdevices.com.au/info/drm1712f_um.pdf

It seems to run anywhere from $139 to $220 online. Will this work for me? Could it actually degrade the image quality? How do these switchers work, in general? Any opinions on this specific switcher?

I'm no expert on this matter but I think you only want to use the 47Hz settings for DVD's. For TV shows and some extra material on DVD's, you will need either the 59Hz or 71Hz setting. TV shows are shot at 60fps I think and don't match up well with the 48Hz.

I think you can expect to see stuttering when using the 47Hz setting for TV material, it is only supposed to 'match up' with film material.

I'm sure there are others who can explain it better but I think the 47Hz settings match up to the frame rate, 24fps, of films because 47Hz (really 48Hz) is a multiple of the 24fps (frames per second).

George -bub



Thanks for the answer, tcreech! Yes, these are the settings I am using. I also set my RGB gains to 58, RGB offsets to 28.5, gamma is set to film, color temp is at 6500K. But I still occasionally notice the stutter I am describing.

I don't think it is the loader, (which I'm beginning to think I'm going to have to replace anyways). When THAT stutters, the entire image freezes, almost like the player was paused, and the sound drops out, for up to a second.

The stutter I'm describing is only the picture. The sound does not drop out. The picture itself seems to "stick" as the camera pans from side to side or if it zooms in or out. It happens multiple times a second, almost too fast to see except when the whole camera image is moving. It looks almost like frames are dropping out. It mainly happens in the DVD menus or when I'm watching a lower-res image like a TV series... like the 80's Batman: The Animated Series... or the lower-res documentary extras on the discs.

For example, I was TRYING to watch the extras on my Fifth Element: Ultimate Edition disc and they were UNWATCHABLE, horribly "herky jerky" every time the camera panned or zoomed in or out. During the movie, though, I never noticed it. Nor did I notice it while watching Finding Nemo or Toy Story 1 + 2.

Would changing the refresh rate to 59.94Hz or 71.928Hz possibly fix this problem??? And if I change the refresh rates, what other custom settings (like those quoted above) would I have to change??? I assume that changing one number means having to alter some or most of the others. Does someone have the custom res settings for the other two refresh rates???

Also... another question I have about these custom settings: Is there any way that I can "save" them on the Momitsu so that I could toggle back and forth between the custom settings and just standard 480i, for example??? Or do I have to pull up the "secret menu" and manually input the custom settings every time I want to go back to them???

Take a look at these from Monoprice.com
http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&style=

Don't get the DVI switch, get the HDMI and use an adapter or HDMI->DVI cable or HDMI->M1 cable.

I'm no expert on this matter but I think you only want to use the 47Hz settings for DVD's. For TV shows and some extra material on DVD's, you will need either the 59Hz or 71Hz setting. TV shows are shot at 60fps I think and don't match up well with the 48Hz.

I think you can expect to see stuttering when using the 47Hz setting for TV material, it is only supposed to 'match up' with film material.

Thanks. That all makes sense, and jives with what I remember reading on these boards over the last few weeks.

And I hope all you guys bare with me... as I am still trying to educate myself on all this "techno-babble"! I didn't know ANY of it about a month ago. I feel like I'm learning a foreign language. (Thank god we don't have to conjegate verbs on this forum!) :D

I'm sure there are others who can explain it better but I think the 47Hz settings match up to the frame rate, 24fps, of films because 47Hz (really 48Hz) is a multiple of the 24fps (frames per second).

But using that logic, wouldn't a refresh rate of 71.928Hz... essentially 72... also work for film? 72 is a multiple of 24, as well.

Take a look at these from Monoprice.com
http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&style=

Don't get the DVI switch, get the HDMI and use an adapter or HDMI->DVI cable or HDMI->M1 cable.

Any particular reason(s) why this would work better for me?

The only reason I ask is that both my DVD player AND my computer currently have DVI outs, but not HDMI. And all my cabling that I already have is DVI. I've already spent a small fortune recently... :eek: ... and don't look forward to buying MORE cables and MORE adapters. :rolleyes:

Thanks!

...And I hope all you guys bare with me...

No offense, Bennan, but the Brokeback Mountain thread is in the DVD/Movie forum. :confused:

Now, if you want us to bear with you, no problem. :D

But using that logic, wouldn't a refresh rate of 71.928Hz... essentially 72... also work for film?Yes.

48Hz = 2:2 pulldown (smooth film)
60Hz = 3:2 pulldown (not smooth film)
72Hz = 3:3 pulldown (smooth film)

No offense, Bennan, but the Brokeback Mountain thread is in the DVD/Movie forum. :confused:

Now, if you want us to bear with you, no problem. :D

Hardy, har, har. :rolleyes:

I believe at 72hz, the 4805's color wheel will slow down from 4x to 3x and can produce more rainbows.

happens in the DVD menus or when I'm watching a lower-res image like a TV series... or the lower-res documentary extras on the discs. horribly "herky jerky" every time the camera panned or zoomed in or out. During the movie, though, I never noticed it. Nor did I notice it while watching Finding Nemo or Toy Story 1 + 2.

Would changing the refresh rate to 59.94Hz or 71.928Hz possibly fix this problem?
ur on the right track....
Film is shot at 24fps--------and Video is 30fps
both are played back at double so 48fps and 60fps (actually 47.95 & 59.94)

For the best PQ what i do with the Momitsu is Custom DVI 854x480@47.95hz
and for Video Playback just switch to the 480p setting (that way keeps ur Custom#s)
if U have a Bravo D1 you can switch to a pre-set 852x480@60hz
if u really watch a lot of VIDEO and get tired of switching---854x480@59.94hz
will work for BOTH because the original DVD is already doing 3:2 pull-down (TeleCine) (http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_7_4/dvd-benchmark-part-5-progressive-10-2000.html)

CUSTOM DVI resolution #s for 854x480@59.94

HorizFreq----29790-----VertFreq------5994
VideoWith-----0854-----VideoHeight---0480
HSyncTotal----1110-----PreHSync------0044
HSyncActive---0128-----PostHSync-----0084
VSyncTotal----0497-----PreVSync------0001
VSyncActive---0003-----PostVSync-----0013
HSyncPol------0000-----VSyncPol------0000

the 72hz Custom DVI Resolution #s are OK for FILM (less RBE/RainBow Effect)
but won't help with the VIDEO playback (not a multiple of 30)

ur on the right track....
Film is shot at 24fps--------and Video is 30fps
both are played back at double so 48fps and 60fps (actually 47.95 & 59.94)

For the best PQ what i do with the Momitsu is Custom DVI 854x480@47.95hz
and for Video Playback just switch to the 480p setting (that way keeps ur Custom#s)

Hate to ask a newbie question, but how do I do that? The only way I pulled up the custom settings on my Momitsu was by pulling up the "secret menu". Once I switch to 480p, how do I get back to the custom settings? I don't see anything in my picture resolution options that says "custom".


if u really watch a lot of VIDEO and get tired of switching---854x480@59.94hz
will work for BOTH because the original DVD is already doing 3:2 pull-down (TeleCine) (http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_7_4/dvd-benchmark-part-5-progressive-10-2000.html)

This might be the option for me. Lately I've been watching a lot of video, Batman: The Animated Series, (the new) Battlestar Galactica, Arrested Development, Firefly, Buffy, Moonlighting, along with a lot of movie watching. Switching back and forth wouldn't be a HUGE pain to me, though, if it was just a matter of going into the Setup menu and making a switch.

What would be the DISADVANTAGE of putting the custom setting at 59.94hz??? Would there be a loss in the picture quality when I am looking at a film (as compared to 47.95hz)???

CUSTOM DVI resolution #s for 854x480@59.94

HorizFreq----29790-----VertFreq------5994
VideoWith-----0854-----VideoHeight---0480
HSyncTotal----1110-----PreHSync------0044
HSyncActive---0128-----PostHSync-----0084
VSyncTotal----0497-----PreVSync------0001
VSyncActive---0003-----PostVSync-----0013
HSyncPol------0000-----VSyncPol------0000

the 72hz Custom DVI Resolution #s are OK for FILM (less RBE/RainBow Effect)
but won't help with the VIDEO playback (not a multiple of 30)

Thanks for the custom settings! :) I'll give them a try and see how I like the picture.

If I get my hands on the figures, I may try 72hz, but I have a suspicion that the rainbow effect will really bother my eyes. I have no way of knowing for sure, until I try it. But my eyes are very sensitive to computer monitor flicker at low refresh rates -- I see the flicker and it gives me a headache even when no one else around me can see it. So something tells me that I'd see the rainbow effect. FYI, I don't think I've seen it on my projector up until now... and my 4805 has never given me a headache, but other projectors have.

I think I'll compare the 59.94hz with 47.95hz (and switching to 480p when I'm watching video) and see which one I like more.

I believe at 72hz, the 4805's color wheel will slow down from 4x to 3x and can produce more rainbows.The colour wheel is still faster at 72Hz/3x (90%) than at 48Hz/4x (80%) although slower than at 60Hz/4x (100%).

So ... 72Hz is probably the best choice for film-based DVDs, assuming the projector will handle it (the SP4805 does but, IIRC, the IN72 doesn't).

Another embarrasing newbie question... I already lost my notes on how to get to the custom settings menu. How do I do that again, so that I can try the different refresh rates??? :confused:

(I was thinking it was the "down,up,down,up,right,left" secret menu, but all that does is allow you to change the region setting to "0", etc.)

Once I switch to 480p, how do I get back to the custom settings? I don't see anything in my picture resolution options that says "custom".

right...just move the cursor to the middle window (it will say DVI 480p)
enter 9713 (u should now see ur last Custom #s) press SETUP

What would be the DISADVANTAGE of putting the custom setting at 59.94hz??? Would there be a loss in the picture quality when I am looking at a film (as compared to 47.95hz)???
follow the URL i gave u....3:2 pull-down (TeleCine) (http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_7_4/dvd-benchmark-part-5-progressive-10-2000.html)
good eXplanation of everything u always wanted to know about Displays/Playback

If I get my hands on the figures, I may try 72hz
ur lucky day....854x480@71.93hz

HorizFreq----36036-----VertFreq------7193
VideoWith-----0854-----VideoHeight---0480
HSyncTotal----1110-----PreHSync------0044
HSyncActive---0128-----PostHSync-----0084
VSyncTotal----0501-----PreVSync------0001
VSyncActive---0003-----PostVSync-----0017
HSyncPol------0000-----VSyncPol------0000

Thanks a million, Mouw !!!!!! :D

I'll do some comparing tomorrow night. I'm going to bed now. It's getting pretty late for me.

The colour wheel is still faster at 72Hz/3x (90%) than at 48Hz/4x (80%) although slower than at 60Hz/4x (100%).

So ... 72Hz is probably the best choice for film-based DVDs, assuming the projector will handle it (the SP4805 does but, IIRC, the IN72 doesn't).

Michael,
I'm not following you, what does the 4805 do that the IN72 doesn't?

While I have your attention, is there a way with the D1 to have two different custom settings to switch between film and tv sources or will the 480p setting work fine for the tv sources?

Also, to make sure one last time, does the IN72 need the gains/offsets tweaked like the 4805 did?

Luck all,
George

I'm not following you, what does the 4805 do that the IN72 doesn't?I don't believe the IN7x boxes do 72Hz - my memory is poor but I think BobW stated that back some ways.is there a way with the D1 to have two different custom settings to switch between film and tv sourcesSet the "Custom Setting" up for 72Hz (or 48Hz) for film and switch to the preset 852x480@60Hz setting for video DVDs.does the IN72 need the gains/offsets tweaked like the 4805 did?My new AVS Power Buy IN76** isn't here yet for me to attest to it, but I understand that it will auto-detect the source and/or there is a software toggle in the menu system. Hence, BobW hasn't provided any magic numbers because they aren't needed. Kras? JaPhule? BobW?

** I need a new toy to play with so I am going to swing the '76 under my 4805 and use both. ;)

Any particular reason(s) why this would work better for me?

The only reason I ask is that both my DVD player AND my computer currently have DVI outs, but not HDMI. And all my cabling that I already have is DVI. I've already spent a small fortune recently... :eek: ... and don't look forward to buying MORE cables and MORE adapters. :rolleyes:

Thanks!

HDMI is new technology and since cables and adapters are available for HDMI->M1 and HDMI -> DVI, it may work out cheaper depending on your cable run to invest in a HDMI switch than the DVI switch since the price difference of the DVI switch can cover the cost of the adapters and new cables. That's just my reasoning since monoprice does not have DVI switches and I don't know of anywhere where the price can beat the HDMI switches offered by monoprice. Just my humble opinion of what I would do in your situation.

I just got my 4805 yesterday and temporarily set it up with my old dvd player and pointed it on a tan wall with Finding Nemo and the picture was very impressive. Today I am going to mount it to the ceiling and mount the diy screen. The question I have is about the various cables I will need. I plan on hooking the HD cable box up via component cables and later when I get a new dvd player I will hook it up to the MI port. So how do I hook up my PS2? Should hook it up via S-cable? I'm trying to make using the system as easy as possible I don't want the kids to have to switch cables everytime they want to play the PS2. Do you guys have an alternative that would get better results? I will be ordering my cables today.

Craig

HDMI is new technology and since cables and adapters are available for HDMI->M1 and HDMI -> DVI, it may work out cheaper depending on your cable run to invest in a HDMI switch than the DVI switch since the price difference of the DVI switch can cover the cost of the adapters and new cables. That's just my reasoning since monoprice does not have DVI switches and I don't know of anywhere where the price can beat the HDMI switches offered by monoprice. Just my humble opinion of what I would do in your situation.

Thanks for your opinion! I thought that you might know something inherently bad about DVI switchers or something. :) You may not be aware of it, but HDMI cables are very expensive, compared with DVI. And since I already have the DVI cables I need, I think I'll stick with DVI.

Unless, that is, someone has more information for me on the subject of DVI switchers or the specific make & model I'm looking at, the 4x1 DVI switcher "DRM-1714F"......... :D

You may not be aware of it, but HDMI cables are very expensive, compared with DVI.

:rolleyes: Hmmm.....3ft DVI->HDMI cable is $3.48 each and HDMI->DVI-D adapter is $4.97 each. Since you have DVI cables already, that is all you need. Not sure where very expensive comes in when dealing with monoprice.com quality and prices unless you think you need Monster brand or something which is all just hype.

I just got my 4805 yesterday and temporarily set it up with my old dvd player and pointed it on a tan wall with Finding Nemo and the picture was very impressive. Today I am going to mount it to the ceiling and mount the diy screen. The question I have is about the various cables I will need. I plan on hooking the HD cable box up via component cables and later when I get a new dvd player I will hook it up to the MI port. So how do I hook up my PS2? Should hook it up via S-cable? I'm trying to make using the system as easy as possible I don't want the kids to have to switch cables everytime they want to play the PS2. Do you guys have an alternative that would get better results? I will be ordering my cables today.

Craig

Well some PS2 games can ouput 480p widescreen however that only works over component... assuming you can bear to live without that you can just go SVIDEO for ease of use.

However a component switching receiver or a component switch box might be a good idea....

I just got my 4805 yesterday and temporarily set it up with my old dvd player and pointed it on a tan wall with Finding Nemo and the picture was very impressive. Today I am going to mount it to the ceiling and mount the diy screen. The question I have is about the various cables I will need. I plan on hooking the HD cable box up via component cables and later when I get a new dvd player I will hook it up to the MI port. So how do I hook up my PS2? Should hook it up via S-cable? I'm trying to make using the system as easy as possible I don't want the kids to have to switch cables everytime they want to play the PS2. Do you guys have an alternative that would get better results? I will be ordering my cables today.

Craig

Unless you have a receiver that does component upconversion for all sources or at least 2 assignable component ins for your cable and PS2 (if you have component cables for it), then the way you are talking about is likely the easiest and only way. It's not hard, just a matter of hitting the "source" button on the 4805 remote. If you absolutely don't want your kids messing with the remote, a receiver that does component conversion isn't that much right now since ones with hdmi are starting to take off.

But I still occasionally notice the stutter I am describing....
For example, I was TRYING to watch the extras on my Fifth Element: Ultimate Edition disc and they were UNWATCHABLE, horribly "herky jerky" every time the camera panned or zoomed in or out. During the movie, though, I never noticed it. Nor did I notice it while watching Finding Nemo or Toy Story 1 + 2.



One must understand the downside to 48Hz/72Hz. This is used to match the referesh rate of the projector/wheel with that of film - so that it is judder free on pans just like the theater. The downside is that video sources like extras and menus will drop frames - it has to by design since video gets played back at 60Hz.

You must decide if video stutter is worse than film judder - as changing the refresh rate with the source is not really practical to resync.

The only solution is projection that can do 120Hz - which covers both film and video smoothly.

Hey Guys!!

I've been lurkin' around here for quite a while and I've learned a WHOLE lot from this forum(Thanks), and from the Infocus Evaluations.

Well, I just bought a used 4805 on Ebay from a guy who claimed he had used it himself til the bulb had recently burned out.

The guy had a perfect feedback rating and seemed quite honorable. And I got it pretty cheap.

I figure it could be 2 years old max, I'll get a new Lamp, and for a few hundred bucks I'll have a good projector with a new bulb.

So I got it today, and sure enough, the bulb was blown. There was actually broken glass inside the case. So I opened up the case, got out all the glass, and blew out all the dust.

What I need to know from one of you 4805 Experts is what the projector should be doing when you try to power it up without the blown bulb and housing. (Before I invest in a new lamp)

I plugged it in, switched it on and this is what it did.

It beeps, the green light on top flashes, and the color wheel starts to spin.

The fans don't spin.

After several seconds the color wheel stops and the green light continues to flash.

This repeats 6 times total and then the light starts blinking red and the color wheel doesn't start to spin anymore

Does this sound like normal behavior under the circumstances?

Is the projector trying to detect the lamp several times and then gives up?

Should the fans spin, or are they temperature controlled?

Should I get the new lamp?

Thanks for your help.

Tim

From my understanding, the fans should spin, regardless of bulb or not.

I figured out that the fans weren't running because I had the lamp door off. Doh!!

When I pushed in on the little door switch the fan on the lens side runs. I'll have to assume that the one on the lamp side is temp controlled, which seems reasonable.

The fan on the lens side is probably to cool the cpu and stuff, so it would run on power up.

The Red light's blinking once, so it's probably just the lamp, which is good news.

Anyway, I guess I'll buy a lamp and see what happens.

Tim

Unless you are using a very wide bandwidth CRT-based display with no integral scaler, or a digital display with an extremely bad scaling circuitry (which is very rare), "upscaling" is a crock! Mass market BS.


Well, I have to disagree. I definitely see an improvement using my DVD player in 720p and 1080i mode. Here is my setup:

LG LDA-531 (HDCP disabled)
30ft component cable
Infocus 4805 (of course :) )

The improvement is noticeable to the naked eye on regular movie content, and verifiable with the test patterns on DVE:

The horizontal B&W resolution pattern is better defined, and the horizontal colour resolution pattern is a LOT better defined.

Jaggies on titles and credits are minimized due to the upsampling/downsampling (kind of like anti-aliasing on a PC, I guess).

A friend of mine also noticed an improvement using the LG DVD player on a large plasma TV.

The one downside on this particular DVD player is that, in 1080i, fast moving images tend to loose some detail. I have not noticed this in 720p.

I cannot explain why the picture is better (maybe the upsampling part of the DVD player was better designed than the standard part?!?), but it definitely IS better.

So I recommend that anyone who is curious try it for themselves - don't discount it just because someone else didn't notice or get any improvement in picture quality.

Well, I have to disagree. I definitely see an improvement using my DVD player in 720p and 1080i mode. Here is my setup:

LG LDA-531 (HDCP disabled)
30ft component cable
Infocus 4805 (of course :) )

The improvement is noticeable to the naked eye on regular movie content, and verifiable with the test patterns on DVE:

The horizontal B&W resolution pattern is better defined, and the horizontal colour resolution pattern is a LOT better defined.

Jaggies on titles and credits are minimized due to the upsampling/downsampling (kind of like anti-aliasing on a PC, I guess).

A friend of mine also noticed an improvement using the LG DVD player on a large plasma TV.

The one downside on this particular DVD player is that, in 1080i, fast moving images tend to loose some detail. I have not noticed this in 720p.

I cannot explain why the picture is better (maybe the upsampling part of the DVD player was better designed than the standard part?!?), but it definitely IS better.

So I recommend that anyone who is curious try it for themselves - don't discount it just because someone else didn't notice or get any improvement in picture quality.

Also you have to consider that "better" is subjective. Many people who argue it can't be better are arguing that no real detail can be added to a picture. However just like some people will prefer a brighter picture even though it techinically crushes whites and has an untrue black, some people will like the effect the rescaling can have.

As I said a few pages back, upconverting can help get rid of jaggies on diagonal lines, but as with anything there is a trade off. Simple shapes will benefit because it's easy to guess what they would look like in higher detail but complex soft shapes will loose clarity. If you don't notice this or it doesn't look bad to you then indeed it will look better.

Try looking at something on a SD channel and looking at the same thing on an HD channel that just upscales it (ESPN does this with a lot of sports shows) this is an exagerated version of upscaling and downscaling: ESPN takes the original 480i picture, upscales it to 1080i, and then it's downscaled again to 480p for your projector.

I personally don't like the effect, however there are definitely times when the HD rescaled picture seems better than the standard pic, but then other times it's really ugly.

A good upscaling DVD player is working with much better original material to scale so the artifacts shouldn't be as noticeable but it's the same basic thing happening...

I'm still back on page 103, so I haven't actually reached your comments yet :D

I haven't noticed anything on screen loosing any clarity, and I am extremely picky about my picture quality. I will have to watch a few more movies to see if there's anything unpleasant about the upscaled/downscaled image.

The test patterns on Digital Video Essentials clearly demonstrate that, somehow, more detail is ending up on my screen - the fine coloured lines fade away to nothing in 480i and 480p, but remain solid and well defined in 720p, and 1080i. This is one thing that is not subjective :) , but I do agree that 'better' is a matter of personal opinion. All the more reason for people to try stuff out for themselves to see if they like it.

As a side note, I'm not sure I'm happy with this newest firmware. As others have already noted, there seems to be a softness to the picture that wasn't there before. It is smoother, and has less of that digital edginess to it, but the lack of detail is very noticeable.

So my choice seems to be between:
Old firmware - sharp detailed picture with 'waterfall' (faint rolling bars)
New firmware - soft, less detailed picture that is very clean
:(

How long until the next firmware release?!?

[QUOTE=

So my choice seems to be between:
Old firmware - sharp detailed picture with 'waterfall' (faint rolling bars)
New firmware - soft, less detailed picture that is very clean
:(

How long until the next firmware release?!?[/QUOTE]

after i downloaded the new firmware i haven,t seen this softness to the pic, the new firmware from what i can see got rid of the pulse or flicker through the pic in dark scenes with no softness for a trade off that i can see. maybe i,m missing something here , i can,t see the softness in the pic mentioned... :confused:

I'm still back on page 103, so I haven't actually reached your comments yet :D

I haven't noticed anything on screen loosing any clarity, and I am extremely picky about my picture quality. I will have to watch a few more movies to see if there's anything unpleasant about the upscaled/downscaled image.

The test patterns on Digital Video Essentials clearly demonstrate that, somehow, more detail is ending up on my screen - the fine coloured lines fade away to nothing in 480i and 480p, but remain solid and well defined in 720p, and 1080i. This is one thing that is not subjective :) , but I do agree that 'better' is a matter of personal opinion. All the more reason for people to try stuff out for themselves to see if they like it.

As a side note, I'm not sure I'm happy with this newest firmware. As others have already noted, there seems to be a softness to the picture that wasn't there before. It is smoother, and has less of that digital edginess to it, but the lack of detail is very noticeable.

So my choice seems to be between:
Old firmware - sharp detailed picture with 'waterfall' (faint rolling bars)
New firmware - soft, less detailed picture that is very clean
:(

How long until the next firmware release?!?

I somehow doubt we will see much in the way of future firmwares... the latest one has addressed most of the major issues (they tried to fix them even if they didn't actually for some). What with the new line of PJs comming out I wouldn't hold out too much hope for more support.

That being said I would love to see a new firmware that turns the internal fan entirely off after an hour or so... no point in it running even if it doesn't take much power. After all electricity prices are always going up...

The colour wheel is still faster at 72Hz/3x (90%) than at 48Hz/4x (80%) although slower than at 60Hz/4x (100%)...

What exactly is "x" in "3x" and "4x"? Is "x" a variable or a fixed constant? Is the color wheel motor speed (in RPMs) fixed or variable?

My 4805 had been working fine for the last 4 months. I've been using it connected to:

1) M1-DVI to HTPC
2) Component to Cable box(HD).

Suddenly today, the PJ refuses to see any video signal on either component or DVI!! (says searching...)
I've tried autoimage, powering on/off the PJ, and even factory reset. It still refuses to see video signal on Componet or DVI.

So, I tried connecting (not present earlier) Composite, and M1-VGA, and both work.

I have tried going back to Component and DVI, and neither work still.

I hope the PJ's component and DVI inputs didn't get disabled/fried.. I can't see how any weird signal/spike could've gone into these two video inputs. The power connection also goes through a UPS+surge protector.

It's like it executed a "disable currently connected inputs" instruction sometime after I last shut it down??

What's happening ? Was this seen before by others? I'm out of the 90day refurb warranty period, and don't like this one bit.. Hoping for a "RTFM" kind of simple fix..

I'm still back on page 103, so I haven't actually reached your comments yet :D

I haven't noticed anything on screen loosing any clarity, and I am extremely picky about my picture quality. I will have to watch a few more movies to see if there's anything unpleasant about the upscaled/downscaled image.

The test patterns on Digital Video Essentials clearly demonstrate that, somehow, more detail is ending up on my screen - the fine coloured lines fade away to nothing in 480i and 480p, but remain solid and well defined in 720p, and 1080i. This is one thing that is not subjective :) , but I do agree that 'better' is a matter of personal opinion. All the more reason for people to try stuff out for themselves to see if they like it.

As a side note, I'm not sure I'm happy with this newest firmware. As others have already noted, there seems to be a softness to the picture that wasn't there before. It is smoother, and has less of that digital edginess to it, but the lack of detail is very noticeable.

So my choice seems to be between:
Old firmware - sharp detailed picture with 'waterfall' (faint rolling bars)
New firmware - soft, less detailed picture that is very clean
:(

How long until the next firmware release?!?

I haven't noticed any difference between the sharpness on the old/new firmwares. I believe someone mentioned the sharpness setting at 480i actually affected ALL the settings, maybe try adjusting that and see if it makes any difference.

My 4805 had been working fine for the last 4 months. I've been using it connected to:

1) M1-DVI to HTPC
2) Component to Cable box(HD).

Suddenly today, the PJ refuses to see any video signal on either component or DVI!! (says searching...)
I've tried autoimage, powering on/off the PJ, and even factory reset. It still refuses to see video signal on Componet or DVI.

So, I tried connecting (not present earlier) Composite, and M1-VGA, and both work.

I have tried going back to Component and DVI, and neither work still.

What's happening ?? I hope the PJ's component and DVI inputs didn't get disabled/fried.. I can't see how any weird signal/spike could've gone into these two video inputs. The power connection also goes through a UPS+surge protector.

It's like it executed a "disable currently connected inputs" instruction sometime after I last shut it down??

What's happening ? Was this seen before by others? I'm out of the 90day refurb warranty period, and don't like this one bit.. Hoping for a "RTFM" kind of simple fix..

Doesn't sound too good....Try your luck with different dvi/component sources or even different cables.

What exactly is "x" in "3x" and "4x"? Is "x" a variable or a fixed constant? Is the color wheel motor speed (in RPMs) fixed or variable?
1x = 3600rpm (3 color 3panel color wheel)
2x = 3600rpm (3 color 6panel color wheel -- 2 each)
4x = 7200rpm (3 color 6panel color wheel -- 2 each)

coincidently the Older Hard Drives also spun at 3600rpm

Well, as with all features there are some tradeoffs. To preserve colorwheel life, for refresh rates of 62 Hz and higher the color wheel speed drops to 3x, so for instance at 72 Hz the color wheel is spinning at 3x or 6480 rpm. This is in between the speeds for 48 and 60 Hz. At 60 Hz it is spinning at 4x or 7200 rpm and at 48 Hz it spins at 4x or 5760 rpm.

Well, thankfully it did turn out to be an RTFM kind of problem, even though I'd like to believe that I'm not really that dumb :)

Sometime after I last used the Cablebox+PJ combination during my endless tweaks I had disconnected the component cable to the PJ at the cablebox.

By divine coincidence, the NVidia driver on my HTPC seems to have decided to disable the DVI output on the graphics card while keeping alive the VGA output even though it's supposed to be in "clone" mode. Must be some sort of default state it reset to .

After fixing both, the PJ is back in (full) business. Sort of a near-death experience.. I was forced to contemplate life without (atleast component/DVI inputs of) the PJ.


My 4805 had been working fine for the last 4 months. I've been using it connected to:

1) M1-DVI to HTPC
2) Component to Cable box(HD).

Suddenly today, the PJ refuses to see any video signal on either component or DVI!! (says searching...)
I've tried autoimage, powering on/off the PJ, and even factory reset. It still refuses to see video signal on Componet or DVI.

So, I tried connecting (not present earlier) Composite, and M1-VGA, and both work.

I have tried going back to Component and DVI, and neither work still.

I hope the PJ's component and DVI inputs didn't get disabled/fried.. I can't see how any weird signal/spike could've gone into these two video inputs. The power connection also goes through a UPS+surge protector.

It's like it executed a "disable currently connected inputs" instruction sometime after I last shut it down??

What's happening ? Was this seen before by others? I'm out of the 90day refurb warranty period, and don't like this one bit.. Hoping for a "RTFM" kind of simple fix..

Where would I find a Component Switch box? That might be the way to go. I also looked on Monoproce and could not find the PS2 cable I need. Im lookng for a 9' S-video to PS2 connection. Thanks for all the help. Todays project is building a screen.

Yes.

48Hz = 2:2 pulldown (smooth film)
60Hz = 3:2 pulldown (not smooth film)
72Hz = 3:3 pulldown (smooth film)If people are having trouble with rainbows like me I suggest trying 60Hz.

I'm using DVI from an HTPC and had substantial rainbow problems at 48Hz and 72Hz. I was hesitant to try 60Hz because I though it would cause judder. But 60Hz has been perfectly smooth for me with film sources and the rainbows are much better.

Speaking of refresh rates. I have a Powerstrip question. I just reinstalled it because the 60hz 3/2 pulldown annoyed me. (and to date we have not found a way to get a an Nvidia 5000 series card to do 48hz with just the Nvida drivers).

But anyway... I noticed that by just using the Display Profiles menu - there is no way to set up TWO separate 848x480 settings. If I save a profile and then paste Jason's settings into a new profile, EVERY 848x480 profile adopts the 48hz settings. What I resorted to doing was leave the bare driver at 60hz default, and turning on Powerstrip when I want to drop to 48hz.

Am I doing somehting wrong here?? Note, I did not try "application profiles" to work around this.

-W

Where would I find a Component Switch box? That might be the way to go. I also looked on Monoproce and could not find the PS2 cable I need. Im lookng for a 9' S-video to PS2 connection. Thanks for all the help. Todays project is building a screen.

Try Walmart for the component box and the Ps2 cable. They have an HD ready component switch box (Very in expensive and it works great). If I were you I would look to get a component PS2 cable rather than the s-video. Wally world should have that as well in the video game section.

Enjoy!

I apologize in advance for crossposting. I am leaving for New Zealand on Monday. All D1 power supply boards, D1 and D2 units I have received up to yesterday have been modded and are being returned: PS boards by snail mail and units by Fedex ground. Anything still enroute to me will be intercepted by my son and will wait till I return in May. I will monitor my email regularily and even check in here once in a while from NZ.

Have a safe trip!

-W

cavu, I hope you get good weather down there. Heard they are in there hurricane season.

I just got my SP4805! I dont have any of my equipment yet, so I decided to plug it into my laptop, my jaw dropped at the quality..

Now I am definitely interested in doing a media pc, can anyone recommend anything for a media pc tailored to the 4805 in audio cards/graphic cards?

I know the 4805 doesnt have the advantage of 1080p, but when making a media pc should I still focus on having it setup for that kind of quality?

-Ed

I just got my SP4805! I dont have any of my equipment yet, so I decided to plug it into my laptop, my jaw dropped at the quality..

Now I am definitely interested in doing a media pc, can anyone recommend anything for a media pc tailored to the 4805 in audio cards/graphic cards?

I know the 4805 doesnt have the advantage of 1080p, but when making a media pc should I still focus on having it setup for that kind of quality?

-Ed

Look for socket 939 opterons, they are the current price/performance champions especially with some overclocking.
Don't skimp on the motherboard or ram. The Asus A8N32-SLi Deluxe is fanless and perfect for an HTPC. Make sure you buy quality ram, buy overclocking ram with higher specs than you forsee using.
A fanless 7600GS video card would be perfect, but remember that only a few of the most expensive 7900 series cards actually support HDCP for when blu-ray and HD-DVD come out.
Try to get quiet hard drives and disk drives. Speed is important, but not as much as quiet.
Also, there are a number of dedicated HTPC cases on the market now. They come at a $ premium, but will fit in with your other components for a cleaner look.
OTA HDTV reciever cards as well as regular cable cards are available if you want to run those sources through your HTPC as well.

htpcnews can get you started in the right direction. Google it.

Make sure you run a DVI cable to the 4805, rather than VGA, as this is what will allow you to pixel map at 854x480.

With regards to what kind of performance you want your HTPC to be capable of, being able to play back 1080p should be required. The projector may not be capable of showing it, but sources will be available at that quality soon enough. You will also want enough horse power to be able to process DVD's (and HDTV?) with ffdshow, etc.

I haven't noticed any difference between the sharpness on the old/new firmwares. I believe someone mentioned the sharpness setting at 480i actually affected ALL the settings, maybe try adjusting that and see if it makes any difference.

Thanks for the tip. I was going to try that, but then noticed a weird bug with the latest firmware. The amount of overscan changes/increases when I power off my DVD player with the PJ still running. At one point, I had so much overscan that the 'safe action' box on one of the DVE test patterns was being cut off.

I am not at all pleased with this new firmware. I will try going back to a previous release, and if I experience the flashing others have reported, I will go right back to the original firmware (1.0.2?) :(

Now to find that link buried somewhere in this thread that has all the firmware versions for download...

Well, my SP4805 and D1 is here and so far, it is great!!! I am currently projecting on a wall (no special paint, just builders grade). I think I am going to swicth to use the length of the room (instead of the breadth). But to do this I need to get a pull down screen, as I have windows on that wall. Been reading here and seems Da-Lite HCMW is the way to go. Distance of wall from projector is about 15 to 16 feet. I suppose this screen will do?

Last night we watched King Kong and it was just amazing. The only thing I noticed was when I first played the DVD it seemed to get stuck at the FBI warning. Had to get the DVD out and put it back in to get it to work (on the D1). And at one scene, the frame seemed to freeze for a couple of seconds. Could it be because of the bad cap?

I am so confused with all the different aspect ratios that are on the back of the DVDs. What do I need to do the get them to fill the screen. King Kong has the aspect ratio of 2:35:1 and it had the black borders on top, when viewing it in the 16:9 mode. Any ideas?

Thanks!

tempduke,
Welcome to the club! Here's the IF projector calculator for the 4805 so you can guage your distance accordingly:

http://www.infocus.com/service/sp4805/resources.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&

I am so confused with all the different aspect ratios that are on the back of the DVDs. What do I need to do the get them to fill the screen. King Kong has the aspect ratio of 2:35:1 and it had the black borders on top, when viewing it in the 16:9 mode. Any ideas?
Thanks!

First of all, with your D1 you should be using either the Gateway 854x480 setting or a custom setting so you are pixel mapping to the 4805 and then using the Native aspect mode on the 4805.

2nd of all, a 2.35:1 movie will never "fill" a 16x9 screen, as they are 2 different aspect ratios. Some people buy 2.35:1 screens so those movies (Star Wars, LOTR, Matrix, etc.,) fill the whole screen with no bars and then have bars on the sides for 16x9 (or 1.78:1) movies.

There are lots of great explanations or options. Some folks do constant height setups and moveable masking for different ratios. There is a whole forum for that on AVS, lots to learn, and you'll need an anamorphic lense to pull it off with the 4805. 4805 use WillyGib is doing this, you could search for his posts.

Hope that helps- enjoy the pj. You should replace the cap on your D1. . .

Wes

I haven't noticed any difference between the sharpness on the old/new firmwares. I believe someone mentioned the sharpness setting at 480i actually affected ALL the settings, maybe try adjusting that and see if it makes any difference.


Indeed it does .

--- Adjusting the Sharpness on 480i will alter all other resolutions and inputs which can make for some image issues .

----------- Jason

I was hoping someone could help me. I have to be honest, I didn't read through the 100+ pages of posts to see if this was answered anywhere, so I appologize if it has been already.

I recently purchased a new 4805 from woot. I hooked it up, put in on a shelf off the ceiling and watched a couple movies and it looks GREAT (have it projecting on a piece of untreated Gatorboard).

I'm not sure how to explain this because I don't know all the correct terms. But when I originally set it up, I had a 16x9 scene on the screen, and there was about an inch and a 1/2 of light around the picture, it was really light and barely noticible, but definately was there.

This evening when I turned on the power, for some reason the blue welcome screen was no longer keystoned correctly, and when I put in a dvd, the light around the picture was now about 2 inches on the top and almost a foot at the bottom, it was also not keystoned (even though the picture was). All my menu items are no longer keystoned either. Any idea what the heck happened and how to fix it? I tried doing a "factory reset" and it did nothing...

Thanks in advance for any help.

PJ

PJ,
Did this happen once or this has happened the last few times you've turned on your projector? What source are you feeding your projector and how do you have it connected to the 4805?

I had 848x480 for several days and it looks very good, but I wanted to see if I can get 854 working. I decided that it was about time to update my nVidia drivers (I'm using a 4200i) and the new drivers are a lot better.

I was using Powerstrip earlier, and while it's powerful, it also has more of a learning curve (I was able to get dagamepimp's numbers working, but couldn't remember how to set them again). I found nVidia's drivers much easier to use, plus I had used these drivers in the past but they must have got deleted sometime back.

This is what I did. I went to the Screen resolutions and refresh rates and changed all the 848s to 854. Then clickeded apply and OK.

It then refreshed the projector's screen flashing 854x480. It was set at 72Hz at first. Later, while in Theatertek I tried to watch a WMV HD clip and the projector reverted back to 848.

I tried setiing it back to the same, but after that I got 854x840 but at 71Hz.

Does the 1Hz make a big difference? I noticed more rainbows at 72Hz than 47Hz, but the playback seemed smoother overall.

I've tried turning the projector on and off a few times with the same results. I have a LG dvd player hooked up to the unit via an sVideo cable. Temporary solution until I can afford one of the retardedly expensive hdmi/dvi cables.

As I said though, the picture itself looks wonderfull. I've even removed the source completely and changed the Blank Screen color from black to white and tried adjusting the keystoning and it did nothing. The blank screen and menu still remained thin on top and wide on the bottom.


PJ

With over 1200 hours on the SP4805, the unit runs without any problems. I cleaned the air filter a few times and had minimal residue. This got me wondering about a whole room filter. Since we installed another rug along with drapes, the airborne particles I see are pretty high in number.

Does anyone here have any recommendations for a small room cleaner that is quiet, easy to clean and inexpensive? I am thinking of a small unit that can be out of the way and filter the particles in the room.

I can see this thread continueing for a while as upgrading from the SP4805 is hard as the increased cost does not seem to give a huge leap in performance for the money. Once you have a SP4805 though, each little tweak one does narrows that gap for minimal money. The only real advantage I have read in these forums is in detail and less SDE. However, that usually coincides with people wishing to sit closer to the screen, which is not my justification for upgrading.

Final question is this:

My unit was from the Costco sale last year. I have the original software and have had no troubles, just the petty push of a button when switching sources. Does a software upgrade do anything for definition detail or picture quality? Or, is it more for convenience in operation?

The Final 4 games in HD blew away anyone who came to my house to watch it. I find that source material quality makes a bigger difference in how great my picture looks.

Thanks to the many people here who blazed the trail for us to follow.

PKinSFLA

I've tried turning the projector on and off a few times with the same results. I have a LG dvd player hooked up to the unit via an sVideo cable. Temporary solution until I can afford one of the retardedly expensive hdmi/dvi cables.

As I said though, the picture itself looks wonderfull. I've even removed the source completely and changed the Blank Screen color from black to white and tried adjusting the keystoning and it did nothing. The blank screen and menu still remained thin on top and wide on the bottom.


PJ

Buy your cable from monoprice.com, it's not very expensive. I wish I would have known about it, as I paid over $100 for my M1 to DVI cable from Infocus themselves over a year ago.

I tried setiing it back to the same, but after that I got 854x840 but at 71Hz.

Does the 1Hz make a big difference? I noticed more rainbows at 72Hz than 47Hz, but the playback seemed smoother overall.

The 4805 will report 72hz as 71hz, and 48hz as 47hz, as you are actually running just under 72 or 48, and the pj rounds down when it report.

Now, if you are *really* running 72hz, your colorwheel will be spinning faster than at 48hz, so you should really see *fewer* rainbows.

Colorwheel is fastest at 60hz (4x), next fastest is 72hz (3x), then 48hz (4x). Over 62hz the colorwheel drops from 4x to 3x. . .

Wes

I've tried turning the projector on and off a few times with the same results. I have a LG dvd player hooked up to the unit via an sVideo cable. Temporary solution until I can afford one of the retardedly expensive hdmi/dvi cables.

As I said though, the picture itself looks wonderfull. I've even removed the source completely and changed the Blank Screen color from black to white and tried adjusting the keystoning and it did nothing. The blank screen and menu still remained thin on top and wide on the bottom.


PJ

The picture should look even better via component. If you don't have component cables, use the regular yellow, red/white rca cable as a component cable.

What do you have your keystone setting at? You should not be using any keystone, leaving it to the default of 50.

Since I have it ceiling mounted I have to have a small amount of keystoning. Before all this happened it was set at like 38.. Now I have to have it set at 16 in order to get a square picture.

The wierdest part of all this is how exceptional the actual picture still looks. I just don't think I'll be able to put up with the extra bleed (is that the right word for it?).

I have one more question to throw into the mix. Has anyone found a cheaper solutions for upgrading their firmware other then paying infocus the 20.00 + shipping? Maybe something I can make or buy at a local store?

Thanks,

PJ

Since I have it ceiling mounted I have to have a small amount of keystoning. Before all this happened it was set at like 38.. Now I have to have it set at 16 in order to get a square picture.

The wierdest part of all this is how exceptional the actual picture still looks. I just don't think I'll be able to put up with the extra bleed (is that the right word for it?).

I have one more question to throw into the mix. Has anyone found a cheaper solutions for upgrading their firmware other then paying infocus the 20.00 + shipping? Maybe something I can make or buy at a local store?

Thanks,

PJ

That is some "EXTREME" keystoning you are using. Most here would recommend you not use any keystoning as it really does distort the picture and create artifacts and other anomalies. I would try to do whatever you can to avoid keystoning. As a test, I would table mount your 4805 with keystone at 50 and see if the image looks ok.

The 4805 comes with an m1 to vga/usb cable. You can use that by connecting the usb end to your pc in order to update the firmware.

I've tried turning the projector on and off a few times with the same results. I have a LG dvd player hooked up to the unit via an sVideo cable. Temporary solution until I can afford one of the retardedly expensive hdmi/dvi cables.

As I said though, the picture itself looks wonderfull. I've even removed the source completely and changed the Blank Screen color from black to white and tried adjusting the keystoning and it did nothing. The blank screen and menu still remained thin on top and wide on the bottom.


PJ


on 'retardedly expensive' cables. They are a waste of money.

Go to monoprice and get the HDMI->M1 or DVI->M1 cable. They are about 10 bucks, depending on the length. The quality is great.

They also have inexpensive component cables as well.

Check out monoprice, bluejeans and other AVS sponsors.

Should we buy the DVI-I or the DVI-D?

DVI-D is what you need, DVI-I will still work but is more expensive.

That's awesome. Got a 25' dvi -htmi and a 25' Componant cable for under 50.00 shipped. SO much better then the price I got anywhere else.

Now just have to get my pj working properly again and all will be right with the world.

PJ

^^I'm in your same boat...My PJ has been out for a month now due to a power supply issue and a bad bulb.

I contacted Infocus today and it turns out my problem is just what happens when you keystone the image due to projecting it from the ceiling or table and there is nothing really wrong with it.

Right now I have it projecting on a peice of gatorboard that is significantly larger then the image... the guy mentioned that once I trim the board and the bleed is on a dark color wall or on the black trim of the screen it will be a lot less noticible.

Guess I have my project for this weekend!

Thanks all for the links for the cables. I'm looking forward to getting all the cables run.

PJ

Well, I have to disagree. I definitely see an improvement using my DVD player in 720p and 1080i mode. Here is my setup:

LG LDA-531 (HDCP disabled)
30ft component cable
Infocus 4805 (of course :) )

The improvement is noticeable to the naked eye on regular movie content, and verifiable with the test patterns on DVE:

The horizontal B&W resolution pattern is better defined, and the horizontal colour resolution pattern is a LOT better defined.

Jaggies on titles and credits are minimized due to the upsampling/downsampling (kind of like anti-aliasing on a PC, I guess).

A friend of mine also noticed an improvement using the LG DVD player on a large plasma TV.

The one downside on this particular DVD player is that, in 1080i, fast moving images tend to loose some detail. I have not noticed this in 720p.

I cannot explain why the picture is better (maybe the upsampling part of the DVD player was better designed than the standard part?!?), but it definitely IS better.

So I recommend that anyone who is curious try it for themselves - don't discount it just because someone else didn't notice or get any improvement in picture quality.


Mystery solved. According to the 'Secrets of HT And Hi-Fi' site, my DVD player (LG LDA-531/DVB-418) uses the built-in Faroudja chip ONLY at 720p and 1080i, and uses it's MediaTech chip at 480i and 480p.

Unfortunately, there are so many issues with the Faroudja implementation on this player, that 480i and 480p over component it the only way to get decent picture quality out of it. The sound from the 6 analog outputs, on the other hand, is nothing short of astounding. It's the best I've heard to date (even better than the Harman Kardon I had a while ago).

Guess I have my project for this weekend!

Thanks all for the links for the cables. I'm looking forward to getting all the cables run.

PJ

Hint... Do another factory reset and leave the keystoning at 50. THEN make your weekend gatorboard project include tilting the gatorboard a bit at the top if you raised the picture off quare, OR out a little at the bottom if you lowered the picture off square. This "manual keystone correction" gives a perfect picture, without all the harms of keystoning. If you have to come out more than 2" to get square, compromise on your screen height a little so that you CAN square it with the gatorboard. Really makes a LOT of difference.

-W

Just recently on my 4805 I've noticed a problem that I don't understand.

On the bottom right hand side of the picture when I put a white blank screen up - I notice that there is a cloudy brownish area on the bottom half of the right side. It almost looks like part of the picture is "burned" away. It's very minor - and you hardly notice it when you're watching a show - but on a white screen it's really bad.

What do you guys think this is? Has anyone else seen this? I tried cleaning the filter and it's still there.... .any thoughts?

Just recently on my 4805 I've noticed a problem--cloudy brownish area on the bottom half of the right side
InFocus 4805 Dust Blob Pictorial Cleaning Guide (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=556431)

jkim5453 explains how to BLOW & SUCK (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7405249&highlight=dust+blobs#post7405249)

:D sorry couldn't help myself

Just recently on my 4805 I've noticed a problem that I don't understand.

On the bottom right hand side of the picture when I put a white blank screen up - I notice that there is a cloudy brownish area on the bottom half of the right side. It almost looks like part of the picture is "burned" away.I just noticed the same problem in the same area (is yours ceiling-mounted?). I looked at the dust blob threads, and this is NOT a dust blob! I cleaned the filter 100 hours ago, but I'll check it again later today.

[QUOTE=sullender]On the bottom right hand side of the picture when I put a white blank screen up - I notice that there is a cloudy brownish area on the bottom half of the right side. It almost looks like part of the picture is "burned" away. It's very minor - and you hardly notice it when you're watching a show - but on a white screen it's really bad


Sounds like a breakdown of the light tube.
If this is the issue it will get worse. eventually you will have a burned area up the entire side of the image. The only way to fix it is to send it in for repair.

Sorry,

Just wanted to pop in and say hello. I just became an InFocus 4805 owner two days ago. I already own an InFocus X2, so I'm familiar with the InFocus line. I hadn't planned to buy a 4805, but I found one in the as-is section at Sam's Club for $150!!! They said it had a bad bulb, but I opened up the lamp housing and it was fine. All I had to do was do a manual bulb reset. Now to do some research and figure out which projector to use for the theater and which one for the living room.

WOW!!!!!!!!!!!
What a find :)
Congrats on the great find. I'd have to say the 4805 wins the theater spot.

I just noticed the same problem in the same area (is yours ceiling-mounted?). I looked at the dust blob threads, and this is NOT a dust blob! I cleaned the filter 100 hours ago, but I'll check it again later today.


Yes, mine is ceiling mounted too. Now that last post has me all worried. Could one of the "regulars" please comment on this? I bought mine second hand and have had no problems for almost a year - what do you suggest? Is it a dust blob? How fast will it get worse?

Yes, mine is ceiling mounted too. Now that last post has me all worried. Could one of the "regulars" please comment on this? I bought mine second hand and have had no problems for almost a year - what do you suggest? Is it a dust blob? How fast will it get worse?It isn't a dust blob. Do a search in this thread for "light tube." There's plenty of info here. Whether the info will be comforting or alarming to you is tough to say. :confused: A lot depends on your DIY skills. Good luck.

I did the search for light tube and 9 pages of nothing came up. Can someone post a link to the answer to this question for me? I would really appreciate it........ I'm stressing out about this now.

...
jkim5453 explains how to BLOW & SUCK (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7405249&highlight=dust+blobs#post7405249)

:D sorry couldn't help myself

That's right, lady. I'll make you famous.

... any way...

Last description of the "light tube" issue I remember was described by "TxJoe" in this thread, but there were few other posts before that by other people who had the problem.

[QUOTE=spyder696969]tempduke,
Welcome to the club! Here's the IF projector calculator for the 4805 so you can guage your distance accordingly:


Thanks! See that calculator and found the screen size etc. The thing is where is everyone getting their Da-lite screens. I searched all over and the prices I am seeing on these are way too high for me. Any suggestions on budget screens?

Thanks.

My experience with fan replacement so far:

-I don't think the 60mm fan even turns on in low power mode (the only mode I watch in) and from my subjective tests on its noise level, it's pretty darn good and it would probably be difficult to find a fan of similar specs that produces noticeably lower noise.

-The original Nidec fan is definitely not run at 12V in low power mode, I would estimate that the projector is sending around 7V to the fan based on subjective listening.

-I've tried replacing the Nidec 80mm fan with 2 different fans so far:

1.) The same one that Onion used to do his fan replacement (Panaflo FBA08A12U 46.9CFM 38.2dBA)

2.) Panaflo FBA08A12H1B 39.6CFM 32.0dBA


-I've had no projector overheating or shutdowns with either fan

-Both fans produced a slight bearing noise, but the FBA08A12H1B was noticeably quieter, maybe just because it's not spinning as fast.

-I do have 2 other fans on order and will test them shortly. One is a Bi-Sonic sleeve bearing fan, that I believe is used by the Nexus corporation to make extremely quiet case fans for the quiet pc enthusiast market (BI-Sonic SP802512M 37CFM 30dBA). The other is an expensive ($25) Pabst fan (5912-8412N 41CFM 32dBA).

-So far, and subjectively, based on several days of listening to the projector with the Panaflo FBA08A12H1B, there is NOT a significant decrease in overall projector noise with fan replacement. In my opinion, this is due to the presence of color wheel-based noise which I know of no way to reduce. The new fan may be slightly quieter than the original, but not by much and the color-wheel whine makes such a difference mute. Onion's experience appears to have been different (inaudible from 1 meter??). Maybe he had a bad original fan, maybe the color-wheel noise on my projector is louder than his, it's hard to say as noise perception and sensitivity varies from person to person and I have no tools to objectively measure noise output, but this has been my personal experience so far. I have dabbled in the quiet pc enthusiast realm, so my sensitivity to noise is likely higher than most.

-I'll send a final update after testing the two fans on order, but as of today, I cannot recommend fan replacement to significantly reduce projector noise, unless you feel there's something wrong with the original fan. But, if you want to be able to learn how to take your projector apart and put it back together in under 15 minutes, by all means go for it :D

Ok, I'm back to report on my fan replacement saga:

-my original statement that the 60mm fan does not run at all in low power mode is 100% wrong. I ran the projector with the cover removed and both fans are always on.

-The BI-Sonic SP802512M is a very quiet fan, the quietest that I've tested so far. But it also moves the least amount of air. The projector did not overheat and shutdown with it, so for a simple fan replacement, this is what worked for me. The Pabst fan was way too loud and had a lot of vibration, it's going back to the retailer since it was $25. Overall, just replacing the 80mm fan maybe dropped overall noise by ~10-15%, maybe not worth doing.

-After not being satisfied with my overall results I embarked on a mission to see if I could 1.) modify the projector to accept a 92mm fan (better cfm/noise ratio) and 2.) remove the 60mm fan. The short answer so far is YES. But it didn't come without bumps. One word of advice, be VERY careful around the color wheel assembly. I had to modify the plastic cage surrounding the lamp bulb assembly. This cage basically holds both fans in place with screws and must be removed in order to modify it to accept the 92mm fan. You just need to do some cutting into it. I used a sheet metal nibbler tool. Removal of this cage also necessitates removal of a metal bracket that sits between the plastic cage and the color wheel. If this is not removed carefully, you WILL damage the color wheel since it sits 1/8" from the bracket. I unfortunately did not follow my own advice and shattered my wheel :o . Basically I thought I was SOL. Then I saw the pieces of the broken wheel and it looked like the 3 segments that broke off, broke evenly at their segment interfaces (They looked like pie pieces) . Anyway, I was able to carefully superglue them back to the parts of the color wheel that were still intact and amazingly, it worked! I can't tell any difference in the projector's image. :D

-The fan I used for the 92mm was the Panaflo FBA09A12L1A (42.7 CFM. Max. noise: 27.0 dB-A)

- I did attach a small Zalman fanmate fan-speed controller to the fan and ran it to the outside of the projector to decrease the fan speed and noise if I needed to.

-So far I've managed to reduce the overall projector noise by ~ 60%, with the color wheel noise being approx 30% of the rest of the noise. No shutdowns so far. I'll report back if anything happens in the mean time, but overall I'm very satisfied and don't feel I can do anything else to silence the projector more beyond using an enclosure of some sort.

[QUOTE=spyder696969]tempduke,
Welcome to the club! Here's the IF projector calculator for the 4805 so you can guage your distance accordingly:


Thanks! See that calculator and found the screen size etc. The thing is where is everyone getting their Da-lite screens. I searched all over and the prices I am seeing on these are way too high for me. Any suggestions on budget screens?

Thanks.

Head over to the DIY screen section of the forum. Check for black-out cloth, gatorboard, and the various paint mixes. Be careful though, it's a zoo in there..complete with drama and scams.

I've had my SP4805 for about 3 weeks now and I'm very satisfied with the image it produces.
However, I have a problem. I don't really know if there is anything wrong with my projector or if this is normal, because I don't know anyone who owns a 4805 and therefore cannot test this on another unit.

The problem is that I'm getting a picture with sync problems from some sources. For example, when hooking up my Sega Megadrive (Megadrive = A PAL version of Sega Genesis) through composite, I get a flickering picture that won't stabilize. I've tried to change the "Sync Threshold", but no good.


Here is a list of some sources that works fine for me:

PlayStation2 -> (composite/S-video/YUV) 4805
Crappy DVD-player "Centrum Gemini" -> (S-video) 4805
Amiga 1200 -> (composite) 4805
Commodore 64 -> (composite) 4805
RF-antenna -> TV-channel from VCR -> (composite) 4805
PSX/PSone PAL game -> (composite & S-video) 4805

But here is the strange part:

Sega Megadrive -> (composite) 4805: Flickering image!! I get two vertically misplaced images melting into each other, both flickering.

PSX/PSone with NTSC game (S-video/composite) -> 4805: Heavily distorted colors, the image centering is off and the image tends to flicker a bit! A PAL game on the other hand works fine with the same connection :confused:

Same PSX with connected PAL-converter -> (composite) 4805: This time the colors are not as distorted, but the image looks more like the Megadrive-image.

TV-channel from VCR -> (composite) 4805: Works fine
Megadrive -> (RF-antenna cable) VCR -> (composite) 4805: Same problem as when connecting the Megadrive directly to the 4805 (though composite).

Conclusion 1:
The problem is not input-relative, since I get sync-problems on both S-video and composite with similar sources. It seems like the 4805 is having some problems processing the image.

Conclusion 2:
It can't be that the 4805 don't like the video signals from some of the older consoles, since the image is perfectly stable when watching TV, using my VCR as a tuner and sending a composite signal to 4805. However, with my Megadrive connected to my VCR through RF, and with that channel tuned in, I get a flickering picture. And that's from the same VCR that works fine with all TV-channels! :confused:

Does the PSX NTSC and Megadrive games have too low resolution for the 4805 to handle?? Or what's this all about? My old Commodore64 works fine, and you would think that a C64 has even lower resolution than a Megadrive? :confused:
My older projector, bought around 1998, works with all these older consoles without any problems.

I have upgraded to firmware 1.3.2 but with no difference concerning this issue.

Is there anyone out there who owns a Sega Master System or Sega Genesis/Megadrive? Or maybe a NES or Super Famicom/Super Nintendo? If so, could you please help me out by trying to connect your console to the 4805 through composite and see if it works?

Thanks.

Edited/added: Off course, there is nothing wrong with my consoles since they work fine on my regular TV.

[QUOTE=spyder696969]tempduke,
Welcome to the club! Here's the IF projector calculator for the 4805 so you can guage your distance accordingly:


Thanks! See that calculator and found the screen size etc. The thing is where is everyone getting their Da-lite screens. I searched all over and the prices I am seeing on these are way too high for me. Any suggestions on budget screens?

Thanks.

I went out to a local art supply store and picked up a 4'x8' piece of gatorboard )33.00) and treated it with the silverscreen paint(19.00 with roller) (check out the DIY Screen section). I painted the scraps I cut off first to get the hang of it, but now it looks great. Purchased some cheap framing from Home Depot, wrapped in in black cloth and WAMMO! a 92' screen for $52.00. The price I was quoted for a screen of the same size and lesser gain was 1280.00.

Good Luck with it.

PJ

I did the search for light tube and 9 pages of nothing came up. Can someone post a link to the answer to this question for me? I would really appreciate it........ I'm stressing out about this now.link (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7055594&highlight=light+tube#post7055594)
link (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7058911&highlight=light+tube#post7058911)

Thanks.

Solid Snake,
I wish I could help but I don't have any of those systems anymore (I'm using emulation instead). How does the psx1 games play on the ps2?

Hi all,

1) I just bought a HOYA HMC ND2 62mm and attach it on my 4805, which is projecting on a 80-inch 'HIGH CONTRAST GREY' screen. How to calculate the "ftl" for my setup.


2) Regarding the HOYA HMC ND2 62mm on 4805, it did dim the brightness to a more comfortable viewing level, reduced rainbow intensity, and more film-like image.

However, i notice a yellow tint on image at most times with the HMC ND2 filter on, which is very obvious is outdoor scenes with sunlight (e.g. LOTR E.E. Chapter 3: The Shire, which seems over-saturated with yellow). Is this normal? i like the ND2 effect but think that the yellow tint is funny-looking.


3) I understand that the calibration setting between DVI and Component Cables is very different.Does anyone connect their 4805 via Component Cables and calibrated to optimum Picture Quality? Can anyone provide the set of calibration settings for Component?

I would appreciate any help! Can also private message me too. :)

A yellow tint from your ND2 is NOT NORMAL. Are you sure the yellow tint didn't exist on the same scenes without the ND2?

Hi all,

Having some trouble with my HDMI receiver, I picked up a Denon 3806 over the weekend. With my 4805 connected directly to my HTPC, I can use a resolution of 848x480, and any refresh rate. However, if I connect my pj and HTPC through the receiver, I can't seem to output 848x480. 1280x720 synchs up at 720p, and 1080i synchs up (with alot of flickering) but when I choose 480p EDTV as the setting in the Nvidia control panel it either doesn't synch or gets stuck at 1080i. Nvidia's 480p setting is 720x480@60Hz too, I always thought 480p was 854or848x480. I'm wondering if I change the advanced timing settings to get it to work.

The true definition of 480p is 720x480. EDTV resolution on the other hand is 853x480 and depending on the display, can be anything from 852x480 to 854x480 (with 848x480 being most compatible with pcs). As to the hdmi receiver problem, it seems like a problem with the receiver. I'm not too familiar with the Denon 3806, does it do any processing of its own over hdmi?

The true definition of 480p is 720x480. EDTV resolution on the other hand is 853x480 and depending on the display, can be anything from 852x480 to 854x480 (with 848x480 being most compatible with pcs). As to the hdmi receiver problem, it seems like a problem with the receiver. I'm not too familiar with the Denon 3806, does it do any processing of its own over hdmi?

Theoretically the HDMI in/out should be passthrough. I just downloaded the HDMI 1.2a specifications (3806 is 1.1 compliant) and the following resolutions are listed:

Primary Video Format Timings
• 640x480p @ 59.94/60Hz
• 1280x720p @ 59.94/60Hz
• 1920x1080i @ 59.94/60Hz
• 720x480p @ 59.94/60Hz
• 720(1440)x480i @ 59.94/60Hz
• 1280x720p @ 50Hz
• 1920x1080i @ 50Hz
• 720x576p @ 50Hz
• 720(1440)x576i @ 50Hz

Sounds like I may not be able to pass 848x480. I knew I should have waited before buying an HDMI receiver. Grrrr...

HDMI supports 848x480. The Zensonic HDMI player can pixel map 848x480 to the 4805 over HDMI just fine (see here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6455146&&#post6455146). I know there were some issues with HDMI switching receivers sending edid information back and forth between source and display, that could be an issue.

HDMI supports 848x480. The Zensonic HDMI player can pixel map 848x480 to the 4805 over HDMI just fine (see here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6455146&&#post6455146). I know there were some issues with HDMI switching receivers sending edid information back and forth between source and display, that could be an issue.

According to the HDMI specification document those Timings I posted are the Primary MUST be supported timings. There are several secondary timings that are optional like 1080p@60,24Hz etc but I'm guessing my Denon may only allow the mandatory timings + 1080p.

So if 480p is 720x480 which is a 3:2 ratio, how does the projector display this in a 16x9 format?

I believe it was mentioned in other threads that HDMI doesn't really require specific resolutions, as all are optional, with the device manufacturer deciding on what to support. 1080p, for example, has been supported since 1.0 (or was it 1.1). But I'm not quite sure myself really.

In any case, if you send 480p to the 4805, it will scale it to 854x480 when in 16x9 mode. You will notice that if you set the 4805 to native mode it will show it in a 3:2 aspect ratio over analog (I believe if you send 480p over digital it will see it as 640x480 and display it in 4:3). Though I'm not 100% sure on this either.

I believe it was mentioned in other threads that HDMI doesn't really require specific resolutions, as all are optional, with the device manufacturer deciding on what to support. 1080p, for example, has been supported since 1.0 (or was it 1.1). But I'm not quite sure myself really.

In any case, if you send 480p to the 4805, it will scale it to 854x480 when in 16x9 mode. You will notice that if you set the 4805 to native mode it will show it in a 3:2 aspect ratio over analog (I believe if you send 480p over digital it will see it as 640x480 and display it in 4:3). Though I'm not 100% sure on this either.

1080p is listed as a secondary video timing format in 1.1. I guess I'm just out of luck with my Denon receiver. The HTPC sees the display as a Denon AVAMP, so I guess I could be dealing with display handshake issues, EDID issues, etc. It seems like the Denon will pass only TV specific video timings.

I'm still a little confused with 480p. I thought 480p was a 16x9 resolution all this time but I guess it isn't. If you set a STB DVD player to output 480p, it outputs 720x480@60Hz, and then you have to set the 4805 to 16x9 for it to scale to native resolution? From day one I've been using my PC at 848x480 and just assumed 480p meant 848/854x480.

DVDs are stored at 720x480i. Anamorphic widescreen movies are anamorphically stretched and stored at this resolution (so each pixel is not squared, making them look wide if viewing at 720x480) while most displays use squared pixels for their resolutions, which is why true widescreen with vertical resolution of 480 lines will be equivalent to ~853 horizontal lines.

DVDs are stored at 720x480i. Anamorphic widescreen movies are anamorphically stretched and stored at this resolution (so each pixel is not squared, making them look wide if viewing at 720x480) while most displays use squared pixels for their resolutions, which is why true widescreen with vertical resolution of 480 lines will be equivalent to ~853 horizontal lines.


Ahhh. OK Thanks. Didn't realize this having always dealt with 848x480.

Originally Posted by sas_aaron
Hi all,

1) I just bought a HOYA HMC ND2 62mm and attach it on my 4805, which is projecting on a 80-inch 'HIGH CONTRAST GREY' screen. How to calculate the "ftl" for my setup.


2) Regarding the HOYA HMC ND2 62mm on 4805, it did dim the brightness to a more comfortable viewing level, reduced rainbow intensity, and more film-like image.

However, i notice a yellow tint on image at most times with the HMC ND2 filter on, which is very obvious is outdoor scenes with sunlight (e.g. LOTR E.E. Chapter 3: The Shire, which seems over-saturated with yellow). Is this normal? i like the ND2 effect but think that the yellow tint is funny-looking.


3) I understand that the calibration setting between DVI and Component Cables is very different.Does anyone connect their 4805 via Component Cables and calibrated to optimum Picture Quality? Can anyone provide the set of calibration settings for Component?

I would appreciate any help! Can also private message me too.

A yellow tint from your ND2 is NOT NORMAL. Are you sure the yellow tint didn't exist on the same scenes without the ND2?

In addition, the whites become like dirty-white.

Hmmm what i exactly mean is that on scene with yellow scenes(e.g. LOTR FOTR: EE Chapter 3, sunlight on grassland) , the ND2 makes the yellow portions of the scene look much more yellow.

is it how ND2 works?

the ND2 makes the yellow portions of the scene look much more yellow.

is it how ND2 works?

AFAIK, No! Do you think your may have some sort of protective film on it that may have turned yellow? I doubt that to be the case. You may try returning it and trying a replacement.

The nature of the ND2, or neutral density filter is that it reduces the intensity of light passing through it. By design it should not alter the colours.

It could be that you got a different type of filter instead that was mislabeled or who knows what.

Make sure you aren't tricking yourself, and if you aren't...get a replacement.

In addition, the whites become like dirty-white.

Hmmm what i exactly mean is that on scene with yellow scenes(e.g. LOTR FOTR: EE Chapter 3, sunlight on grassland) , the ND2 makes the yellow portions of the scene look much more yellow.

is it how ND2 works?

You are comparing a 50% white against a 100% white - and a 50% yellow and a 100% yellow. Stop taking the filter on & off to compare.

White is the brightest thing on the screen - everything else is shades of grey. The moon is dirty grey during the day - but brilliant white at nite. Its luminance does not change - what changes is it's relative surroundings.

Use the filter to reduce your screen image down to movie levels. Leave it on.

This comparison is no different than if you compared against a projector half as brite! And if you snag a SP777 which is twice as bright - then the SP4805 is going to be the one with dirty whites!

I want to get a ND2 filter and have one located but I feel that it would make my image too dark. I have 1008 hours on my lamp and low power seems a tad too dim like everything is shot in the late evening. I think if i put up some black velvet curtains it would be a perfect image as my blacks would not get washed out by my white walls. I want to try a ND2 filter but don't want to throw the money away unless it really improves black so the apparent contrast keeps the image from being to dim. Should I give it a go. CAVU said a 3500 hours+ he still has his on. For me right now high power is a tad to bright and low power is a tad to dim. 92in screen, 1.0 gain with one white wall on the left side about 12inch from the edge of the screen - the wall I'm thinking about making temp curtains for.

My lamp was well under halfway at 1500 hours. YMMV - but the whole point of ND2 is to knock down the initial brightness which is often too bright. If you don't think it is too bright - why do you need the ND2?

I've never had one, I thought maybe if blacks were way better then it would look great even though it wasn't as bright. But you answered my question, so I'll save some money.

I've been lovin' my SP4805 since I picked up the refurb in the Staple's Black Friday deal. I was about to demo it for a friend when the bulb wouldn't strike. Ended up with a single flashing red which the manual suggests to check the bulb, the door, and for a loose connection. I removed the bulb and it looked fine. I re-secured it and the door but still no go.

Should I take this as a need to replace the bulb or would service be warranted? Even though the lamp counter was at zero when I first hooked it up I was concerned with the actual hours on the bulb as the ND2 filter dimmed things down a bit too much. Guess this will give me a little time to complete the D1 mod :(


Thanks,
Gregg

I've been lovin' my SP4805 since I picked up the refurb in the Staple's Black Friday deal. I was about to demo it for a friend when the bulb wouldn't strike. Ended up with a single flashing red which the manual suggests to check the bulb, the door, and for a loose connection. I removed the bulb and it looked fine. I re-secured it and the door but still no go.

Should I take this as a need to replace the bulb or would service be warranted? Even though the lamp counter was at zero when I first hooked it up I was concerned with the actual hours on the bulb as the ND2 filter dimmed things down a bit too much. Guess this will give me a little time to complete the D1 mod :(


Thanks,
Gregg

This happend to me once also. For me it was my surge protector..... I found this out after sending mine to InFocus and them sending it right back saying nothing was wrong with it. Make sure everything is connected tightly and reset your surge protector.

You are comparing a 50% white against a 100% white - and a 50% yellow and a 100% yellow. Stop taking the filter on & off to compare.

White is the brightest thing on the screen - everything else is shades of grey. The moon is dirty grey during the day - but brilliant white at nite. Its luminance does not change - what changes is it's relative surroundings.

Use the filter to reduce your screen image down to movie levels. Leave it on.

This comparison is no different than if you compared against a projector half as brite! And if you snag a SP777 which is twice as bright - then the SP4805 is going to be the one with dirty whites!

actually i am suspecting something else. Along with ND2, i am currently using a High Contrast Grey Screen with gain 0.9 , which i think dim the image much furthur. when i use a piece of white paper to compare with the screen, the color looks more vibrant and natural, which i think is rather nice

I think the screen to go with ND2 is MATT WHITE right?

This happend to me once also. For me it was my surge protector..... I found this out after sending mine to InFocus and them sending it right back saying nothing was wrong with it. Make sure everything is connected tightly and reset your surge protector.

I was able to convince a friend to let me "borrow" his lamp to see if in fact is was a lamp issue. Fired right up. Even though it was a refurb I wasn't expecting a replacement so soon. The bulb itself looks fine, it just won't strike. Oh well!

Even with the cost of the replacement lamp I've kept the entire outlay for this projector under $790. Worth every penny. :)

Gregg

actually i am suspecting something else. Along with ND2, i am currently using a High Contrast Grey Screen with gain 0.9 , which i think dim the image much furthur. when i use a piece of white paper to compare with the screen, the color looks more vibrant and natural, which i think is rather nice

I think the screen to go with ND2 is MATT WHITE right?

Nope - same deal. Put a silver screen next to your white screen - it makes the white screen look dirty dingy. But the .9 grey screen next to a .5 grey screen - now the grey screen looks brilliant.

Chose your screen gain based on calibrated projector lumens and size - in combination with an intial ND2 if you prefer. Chose your screen shade and viewing angle based on your room conditions.

Hi, I got my woot 4805 set up with an 85" DIY BOC screen. Looks great! I am using a DVD player (component) and a Directv Tivo (S-vid).

I leave the 4805 set on 16x9, even for 4x3 standard def DTV stuff. On **some** channels, there is a small distorted/squigly line at the top of the screen. It is not there on DVD (s-vid or component) and some DTV channels. Is this normal? What causes it?

Thanks.

Hi, I got my woot 4805 set up with an 85" DIY BOC screen. Looks great! I am using a DVD player (component) and a Directv Tivo (S-vid).

I leave the 4805 set on 16x9, even for 4x3 standard def DTV stuff. On **some** channels, there is a small distorted/squigly line at the top of the screen. It is not there on DVD (s-vid or component) and some DTV channels. Is this normal? What causes it?

Thanks.

It's normal. You cannot disable it nor remove it. No worries. Welcome to the land of IF4805 fans! Now you just need a Bravo D1! :)

Does anyone here connect their 4805 via Component Cables and calibrated using AVIA or other video calibration? i can't seem to find any calibration settings for component except for DVI, which has different calibration settings.

Can anyone kindly provide the set of calibration settings for Component connection?

Nope - same deal. Put a silver screen next to your white screen - it makes the white screen look dirty dingy. But the .9 grey screen next to a .5 grey screen - now the grey screen looks brilliant.

Chose your screen gain based on calibrated projector lumens and size - in combination with an intial ND2 if you prefer. Chose your screen shade and viewing angle based on your room conditions.

And then at some point, accept your calibrated settings and enjoy your movies for the CONTENT the director intended, and leave the techno-ponderings to the professionals like Kras. Or spend the rest of your days doing A-B comparisons :D

-W

Does anyone here connect their 4805 via Component Cables and calibrated using AVIA or other video calibration? i can't seem to find any calibration settings for component except for DVI, which has different calibration settings.

Can anyone kindly provide the set of calibration settings for Component connection?

1) I tried the calibration settings from ProjectorCent*** , and the calibration setting looks too reddish. (sorry to replace the spelling with "*" as i am not sure if this forum allows users to post website links.)

2) I tried the following DVI calibration settings(from Unofficial 4805 FAQ) for my COMPONENT connection:

RED Gain 58
GREEN Gain 58
BLUE Gain 58
RED Offset 29
GREEN Offset 29
BLUE Offset 29

And after that, i set the constrast and brightness according to THX Optimizer to balance the overall picture.

RESULT: The picture is nicer and natural, especially in skin tones and sceneries. but i still feel the picture is abit dark.


i heard that DVI and component settings are very different, which does not have optimum result for Component connection if using DVI setting.

Can anyone provide the Gain and Offset of each color for Component? i would appreciate your kind help... thanks in advance! :o

And then at some point, accept your calibrated settings and enjoy your movies for the CONTENT the director intended, and leave the techno-ponderings to the professionals like Kras. Or spend the rest of your days doing A-B comparisons :D

-W


That's one of the best posts I've seen.

I've got quite a bit into tweaking since I got my HT toys. It's a modest setup, but man I've spent days pondering over the most minor and insignificant things. In the end though, I'm satisfied I was able to accomplish two things I wanted to - get my projector to display 854x480 (not a huge gain over 848) and bitperfect from my sound card (even less relevant and significant). OK, I'm exagerrating. Neither took days, but a few hours.

Finally, I'm getting around to actually setting up a border with velvet and painting the walls with a less shiny paint. I think that should make a bigger difference.

Now, to worry about the seating arrangement (I've got one seat for me but that's not enough when I throw my theater party in the next week or two).

I leave the 4805 set on 16x9, even for 4x3 standard def DTV stuff. On **some** channels, there is a small distorted/squigly line at the top of the screen. It is not there on DVD (s-vid or component) and some DTV channels. Is this normal? What causes it?

Thanks.
You can get rid of it by enabling Overscan.

1) I tried the calibration settings from ProjectorCent*** , and the calibration setting looks too reddish. (sorry to replace the spelling with "*" as i am not sure if this forum allows users to post website links.)

2) I tried the following DVI calibration settings(from Unofficial 4805 FAQ) for my COMPONENT connection:

RED Gain 58
GREEN Gain 58
BLUE Gain 58
RED Offset 29
GREEN Offset 29
BLUE Offset 29

And after that, i set the constrast and brightness according to THX Optimizer to balance the overall picture.

RESULT: The picture is nicer and natural, especially in skin tones and sceneries. but i still feel the picture is abit dark.


i heard that DVI and component settings are very different, which does not have optimum result for Component connection if using DVI setting.

Can anyone provide the Gain and Offset of each color for Component? i would appreciate your kind help... thanks in advance! :o


First off, those Offset/Gain numbers are for DVI only, not component.

Secondly, no one can give you "the" set of calibration settings for your component connection, because it is potentially different for everyone. Different DVD players will have different outputs, requiring different tweaking. You need to use Avia or DVE to tweak your own.

OK, this post is kind-of off-topic, but I'm going to give it a shot anyway. I just discovered that there are A/V recievers with the Faroudja processor built in (PC World mentions the JVC RX-D702B). Apparently there are some that can output all video signals through DVI or HDMI. For 480i signals via composite, s-video or component, they use the Faroudja chip to upconvert to 480p. All other signals are passed directly. This would be really cool to use with my 4805 -- I could run just one DVI cable and everything could be routed through it.

This sounds great in principal. The problem I always have is finding a receiver with enough inputs. I'd like to find one that has 2 DVI or HDMI inputs, and 6 component inputs (I'd settle for 4). It also needs a couple of s-video inputs, and they all have to be usable separately. I actually don't mind if it's not cheap.

Does anyone know how I would go about trying to find an A/V receiver with the Faroudja processor and these inputs? So far I've just stumbled across some reviews, but I'm wondering if anyone here has a recommendation, or a good way of searching for this type of thing?

Again, I know this is off-topic, but I think you can all see the use of such a thing with the 4805, right? :D

Thanks.

-Dan

Hi, I got my woot 4805 set up with an 85" DIY BOC screen. Looks great! I am using a DVD player (component) and a Directv Tivo (S-vid).

I leave the 4805 set on 16x9, even for 4x3 standard def DTV stuff. On **some** channels, there is a small distorted/squigly line at the top of the screen. It is not there on DVD (s-vid or component) and some DTV channels. Is this normal? What causes it?

Thanks.

Yu can get rid of that by hitting the overscan button. The cause, from what I understand, is information for closed captioning is present.

OK, this post is kind-of off-topic, but I'm going to give it a shot anyway. I just discovered that there are A/V recievers with the Faroudja processor built in (PC World mentions the JVC RX-D702B). Apparently there are some that can output all video signals through DVI or HDMI. For 480i signals via composite, s-video or component, they use the Faroudja chip to upconvert to 480p. All other signals are passed directly. This would be really cool to use with my 4805 -- I could run just one DVI cable and everything could be routed through it.

This sounds great in principal. The problem I always have is finding a receiver with enough inputs. I'd like to find one that has 2 DVI or HDMI inputs, and 6 component inputs (I'd settle for 4). It also needs a couple of s-video inputs, and they all have to be usable separately. I actually don't mind if it's not cheap.

Does anyone know how I would go about trying to find an A/V receiver with the Faroudja processor and these inputs? So far I've just stumbled across some reviews, but I'm wondering if anyone here has a recommendation, or a good way of searching for this type of thing?

Again, I know this is off-topic, but I think you can all see the use of such a thing with the 4805, right? :D

Thanks.

-Dan

The Denon 5805 should solve all your problems. You did say that you don't mind that it's not cheap right? :)

The Denon 5805 should solve all your problems. You did say that you don't mind that it's not cheap right? :)
Thanks. You're right, I did say that I don't mind if it's not cheap. Now all I have to do is go to the local Arm & Leg store... :p

Question: When I look at the specs on the Denon site, and compare the 5805 to the 4806, it says the 5805 does *not* do video conversion - analog to HDMI. Does this mean it doesn't convert s-video to HDMI?

Also, what's the deal with the 5805 not having Auto Setup Calibration? For that price, it should not only be able to calibrate itself, but it should, well, fill in your favorite off-color comment here.

-Dan

Also, what's the deal with the 5805 not having Auto Setup Calibration?

What fun would that be? Everyone knows you should love to spend countless hours calibrating your equipment. Just look at some of the members here. :D

Seriously, I'd much rather calibrate it myself than have the machine do it for me. :cool:

What fun would that be? Everyone knows you should love to spend countless hours calibrating your equipment. Just look at some of the members here. :D
Um, yeah, my point exactly... :D

Seriously, I'd much rather calibrate it myself than have the machine do it for me. :cool:
Be my guest. It'd be nice to have the option, though, especially considering the Denon A/V receiver I already have has that feature, and it cost 1/10th the price!

-Dan

Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this and is it a sign of my 4805s decline or no big deal... no worries.

While trying different settings for my HD cable box w/ my new DVI cable the Menu on my 4805 froze on screen then I tried to change my HDbox to a different (?resolution?) 720p from 1080i and the screen went black w/ colored pixels all over (like stars in the sky). Nothing worked so I Hard powered it off... waited 5 minutes and it seems just fine.

Do you think it just wanted a break after a hour of many changes or .....?

Also, when running DVI out of a HD cablebox, do most use 720p or 1080i? W/ Component I just left it on 1080i. I know shows are broadcast in the 2 formats and one can look it up... but I don't see That much of a difference. Is the interlacing easier on the 4805 for one or the other.

Thanks,
RD

...and the screen went black w/ colored pixels all over (like stars in the sky). Nothing worked so I Hard powered it off... waited 5 minutes and it seems just fine.I had the same thing happen a couple weeks ago. I turned the projector on before my HTPC had settled on a resolution (it goes through several in the bootup process) and all I got was a black screen with white "stars" on the upper left quadrant. Never saw the projector's splash screen.

The projector was completely non-responsive. I turned it off for a while and it's worked fine since. I've never had it do anything strange before or after that.

I figured it was due to a resolution change as it was starting up.

Thanks X.

Yeah I think with all the Picture adjustments I was doing Contrast,Bright, Gamma, ect... and changing the HD signal back and forth it just locked up for whatever reason. Hopefully nothing more to come.

RD.

Thanks. You're right, I did say that I don't mind if it's not cheap. Now all I have to do is go to the local Arm & Leg store... :p

Question: When I look at the specs on the Denon site, and compare the 5805 to the 4806, it says the 5805 does *not* do video conversion - analog to HDMI. Does this mean it doesn't convert s-video to HDMI?

Also, what's the deal with the 5805 not having Auto Setup Calibration? For that price, it should not only be able to calibrate itself, but it should, well, fill in your favorite off-color comment here.

-Dan

I'm pretty sure the 5805 does autocalibration. In fact, I believe it does auto-calib for multiple seating positions, meeting multiple sweet spots.

Yu can get rid of that by hitting the overscan button.
Gee, I wish I'd said that. Oh wait...I did. :rolleyes:

Hmmm encounter some strange noise from my 4805.

I know how fan noise and color wheel noise sound like, and this noise is definitely not one of them. I am using in Low Power mode.

Description: Its sounds like it right comes off the power plug (not the 3-pin socket, i mean the other end where you slot onto your 4805) . The constant noise sounds like "flying housefly", like a constant "Zzzzzzzz.........." or "Electric Hum". This happens occasionally and is very loud and annoying when it comes; and when other times without the "Zzzzzz" sound, its just normal with abit of noise from the fan/color wheel.


Anyone encounter this before? is it a problem with the power plug? there a way to solve it?

Anyone encounter this before? is it a problem with the power plug? there a way to solve it?
Some have reported side effects from using a UPS. Is the PJ plugged into a UPS? If so, plug it directly into the wall and see if it persists. If that fixes it, you may want to try a different UPS.

I have searched both the 1st and 2nd official 4805 threads and looked at all the zoomplayer documentation I can find and still don't see an easy way to have letterboxed (not anamorphic) widescreen movies fill the screen on my 4805. I know that anything other than 16:9 will not "fill the screen" but right now the image is completely letterboxed AND pillarboxed. I can fix it by zooming in with the + key or the mouse wheel, but I can't make the default way to play my letterboxed titles fill maintain the proper aspect ratio AND be the full width of the screen.

I am running DVI out from a NVidia 6200 using PowerDVD decoder and the PJ is running "Native" I would love for this to work, the WAF is on a steep decline as everytime I try to watch a movie on the HTPC it takes 5 minutes to start the movie rather than just poping it in the DVD player.

On another note, would there be a major advantage to purchasing the NVidia purevideo decoder from their site, or am I fine running the PowerDVD? My pc is an Athlon XP 2200+ with 512mb ram and like I said it is using a 6200 video card.

Any help would be great, and I am sure that because I can't find the answer anywhere I must be missing something big and obvious.

Thanks in advance,
Brian

with component 480i you can use letterbox on the 4805 for non anamorphic material do scale it and make it fit. I use it for my true lies, little mermaid, hope floats, etc.

I don't use a PC, so you'll have to get help from those guys on what settings to use.

I think I fixed it, I had to check the "Restrict AR adjustments to height in zoom mode" box. It is checked by default but I must have unchecked somewhere along the way. Now I just have to figure out how to make it not do that when the AR is 4:3. I guess that worst case scenerio I can just switch to 4:3 AR when watching the few 4:3 items that I have in my collection.

I am still curious about the NVidia decoder though. I read that it was the best back in late '05 but don't know how much difference it will make over PowerDVD. I would love to hear that PowerDVD isn't doing hardware assisted decoding and that NVidia would cut back on some of my stuttering. I guess I will look into that.

Thanks for putting up with my self answering posts.

Later,
Brian

Hmmm encounter some strange noise from my 4805.

I know how fan noise and color wheel noise sound like, and this noise is definitely not one of them. I am using in Low Power mode.

Description: Its sounds like it right comes off the power plug (not the 3-pin socket, i mean the other end where you slot onto your 4805) . The constant noise sounds like "flying housefly", like a constant "Zzzzzzzz.........." or "Electric Hum". This happens occasionally and is very loud and annoying when it comes; and when other times without the "Zzzzzz" sound, its just normal with abit of noise from the fan/color wheel.


Anyone encounter this before? is it a problem with the power plug? there a way to solve it?



I get the same thing, just not real loud. Have to be a couple feet away to hear it. Sounds exactly like you describe. I asked before, and didn't seem like anyone else noticed it.

With all the buzz on 720p PJ's out there I want to say I still love my 480p 4805 PJ. Watching HD and DVD's @ 1080i over the DVI-M1 adapter through my Yammy 5990 is just awesome.

I cleaned the filter after 325 hours and about 1/3 of the filter was dirty. When I screwed the assembly back in I overtightned the screws, as soon as I turned on the PJ I heard a gawd awefull grinding then screeching noise coming from the unit. I removed the cover as it was making this sound and loosened the fan assembly screws and when noise stopped I backed off the screwes another 1/4 turn. No sounds since then and now have 385 hours on lamp from watching awesome Video.

I have been trying to upload pics of my HT room but I am having problems like I get the cannot find server screen error, so as soon as I figure what's going on I will upload some screen shots and HT room pics.


Have a great day. :)

I get the same thing, just not real loud. Have to be a couple feet away to hear it. Sounds exactly like you describe. I asked before, and didn't seem like anyone else noticed it.

I noticed this when I had my 4805 connected to a UPS as scooterboy mentioned earlier. If you're not connected to a UPS, I'd try a different outlet and see if that noise is still there.

I'm doing a total cleaning of my SP4805, 3 dust blobs, Lamp Vac and Color Wheel. When I look at the lamp, I can see that the back part of the reflector is very scratched. ie the morror coating that reflects the light is cracking and peeling away from the glass bulb. Is that normal? I don't think my SP4805 had ever been cleaned, I bought it with 978 hours on it. Also the front of the lamp housing has been scorched around the glass window where the light exits to the color wheel, I'm assumming thats normal from the intense heat. Everything works good but the missing mirror reflector/paint on the bulb is what I see as the biggest problem as that lets light escape out the back of the bulb. It's not alot I'd say about 20% lots of cracking and about 5-10% missing/open where light can get out the back of the bulb. I don't even know how that would happen just looks like intense heat has caused the mirror coating to crack real bad and in portions it's fallen away totally. Sides of the bulb are perfect with no sign of stress or cracking it's just the back of the bulb. There is quite a bit of dust on the filter 70% filled.

rrhomes,
If you've got 70% dust coverage on your filters, that should be the issue, but if your picture looks good, then it's not really an issue at all anyway. Now that you've cleaned it, just keep it cleaned every few hundred hours and you shouldn't have any problems. I cleaned my filters after getting to the 1000 hour mark (in only 3 1/2 months) and they were barely dirty at all.

Quick Question Guys.

I'm trying to determine if I need to get a UPS or not.

If the AC power goes off and comes right back on, what will my 4805 do?

I've read posts indicating that it won't try to strike the lamp again for a minute or two.

Is this true? (I don't wanna test it, just in case)

Is it temperature controlled, or timer controlled?

Thanks

Quick Question Guys.

I'm trying to determine if I need to get a UPS or not.

If the AC power goes off and comes right back on, what will my 4805 do?

I've read posts indicating that it won't try to strike the lamp again for a minute or two.

Is this true? (I don't wanna test it, just in case)

Is it temperature controlled, or timer controlled?

Thanks

The 4805's circuitry will prevent the 4805 from striking the lamp again as it will notice that the lamp is still too hot to be lighted.

The 4805's fans are temperature controlled, if you are on low power mode and the 4805 feels that it's getting too hot the fan will run louder.

So after it cools enough, I'll need to push the remote power button to restrike it?

Thanks

Has anyone else had their lamp fail with less than 100 hours on it? I went to use my projector the other day and it failed to light. It powered on fine and the LED stayed green (no error codes), but it the lamp never lit.

My friend has the same projector, so I tried his lamp and the projector worked fine. I called Infocus and they said I had to buy another lamp for $350. Since I bought the projector in early December, it was out of warranty. I asked if they could help me out since I only had 51 hours on the bulb, but they didn't have any sympathy.

I'm having a hard time bringing myself to spend the $$$ on the lamp since I only got 51 hours from the original one. I'm hoping to hear that no one else has had such bad luck!

Has anyone else had their lamp fail with less than 100 hours on it? I went to use my projector the other day and it failed to light. It powered on fine and the LED stayed green (no error codes), but it the lamp never lit.

My friend has the same projector, so I tried his lamp and the projector worked fine. I called Infocus and they said I had to buy another lamp for $350. Since I bought the projector in early December, it was out of warranty. I asked if they could help me out since I only had 51 hours on the bulb, but they didn't have any sympathy.

I'm having a hard time bringing myself to spend the $$$ on the lamp since I only got 51 hours from the original one. I'm hoping to hear that no one else has had such bad luck!

That seems very unusual, I have over 400 hrs on mine and I have heard others on this forum talk about 1500+ hours with no noticeable decrease in output. The only caution I have heard of as far as care goes is you should not turn off the unit if you are going to use it again in less than 2 hrs(each bulb strike is worth 2 hrs of life). Did you buy a new unit or a refurb? If it is a refurb the lamp counter could have been reset.

Look around on the net for other retailers selling lamps, I believe InFocus is one of the more expensive choices.

I would just chalk it up to bad luck at this point. :(

Well I did the total clean of my SP4805. Dust Blobs, Color Wheel and Lamp. One thing I noticed regarding dust blobs is that the cleaning instructions lead you to believe that the TI DMD is exposed and vulnerable when the lens is out. In fact there is a glass covering like what you see on front of the bulb. It spans the entire inside wall in front of the DMD and its the glass that gets dust blobs on the front of it not the actual DMD. I used a Q-Tip to actually clean in front of the DMD(Like I was pressing on it but in fact it was the glass cover) and got it immaculate. I also Q-Tip(with cleaning solution) the big mirror and plastic lens inside the DMD area. I started out using 91% pure alcohol but found a plastic lens cleaning solution cleaned way better and left no residue. I also cleaned the color wheel which is an odd thing, it looks VERY DIRTY and Cleans up quite a bit, but you don't see any thing on the Q-Tip. And what is coming off of it looks like a powder I think we need to check to see if that isn't some light oriented apllied powder film that is suppose to be left on - it was such a weird film it made me curious, but it very well may be just some form of heated vapor that should be removed, but there is definitely a lot of it, My color wheel was FILTHY, if it is not suppose to be there. The lamp assembly is very easy to understand and disassemble I think If I have to get a new bulb that I'll do the X1 substitute if the bulbs are the same it just isn't complicated. Anyhow I'm dust blob free and full clean path for light to travel through the color wheel.

plastic lens cleaning solution cleaned way better and left no residue
what is this Plastic Lens Cleaning solution
and Where do i get it?

Any eye glass store will have a plastic cleaner version, I used Kingston LCD Screen Guardian, it has a very light blue tint to it, but evaporates very clean, much better on cleaning grime than alcohol. You may have to do multiple passes as it de-grimes the grime may cause a mark but with a few secondary passes it becomes immaculate. There is also only one opening where I can see that dust can even get into the light cage, it is above the lens that comes after the color wheel and aims at the big mirror in the cage. It totals about .5 of a square inch and could be plugged with foam-if that opening isn't some type of a heat release, if it is then of course it would be a big mistake to fill it but I know they don't have then intention of air tubulence flowing in the light cage, but maybe it's made so heat can creep out of that opening. If it's not a heat release and just a small open area I would think filling it would stop dust blobs for good and once cleaned could keep the area very clean almost sealed.

Has anyone else had their lamp fail with less than 100 hours on it? I went to use my projector the other day and it failed to light. It powered on fine and the LED stayed green (no error codes), but it the lamp never lit.

My friend has the same projector, so I tried his lamp and the projector worked fine.

Did you try another strike before considering it dead? Did your color wheel spin up, but just no light output? How about trying your bulb in his PJ?

Hi everyone,

i have had my 4805 for almost 2 years now and i recently purchased the new hd-dvd player. i am hooking it up to my projector through the m1 input. i had previously purchased the 10m dvi-m1 infocus cable and i am using an hdmi/dvi adapter connected to the hddvd player. i have 2 questions:

1. is it normal for the projector to tell me that i am receiving a 1920x540p and 59hz signal from the hd-dvd player, even though i am sending a 1080i signal? in the past with my hd directv receiver, connected through component cables, the projector would read 1080i whenever i sent it a 1080i signal.

2. is it normal in the above situation (viewing the hd-dvd player connected to the 4805 through hdmi/dvi/m1) to have what looks like white random pixels surrounding white text whenever it is on the screen? i am not sure if this is what people mean when they say they have sparklies on there screen from a dvi cable. the thing is that this anomaly is not green, but white.

i have eliminated this from being caused by the hd-dvd player because when i hooked my hd directv receiver up to the dvi input i also got the 1920x540p...displayed in the bottom left corner. i also noticed that the strange noise or irregular pixels where there too.

i can only think of 2 causes here. either the 4805 is scaling a high definition signal wrong through the dvi input or i have a bad cable or an incompatibility problem. any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.

on a side note the hd-dvd player playing standard dvds at 480p through the dvi/m1 cable looks phenomenal. noticably better than my previous dvd player the denon 1910 (480p dvi). also, i watched the last samurai hd-dvd last night and the picture quality i will describe as being a little better than the best standard def dvd i have ever viewed on the 4805 (colors were better and wide shots had more detail). the only thing that bothered me was those damn white pixels on the subtitles and the closing scrolling credits looked horrible.

sorry this was soo long but it was bothering me all day and i wanted to describe my situation in as much detail as possible. thanks -mike

Hi everyone,

i have had my 4805 for almost 2 years now and i recently purchased the new hd-dvd player. i am hooking it up to my projector through the m1 input. i had previously purchased the 10m dvi-m1 infocus cable and i am using an hdmi/dvi adapter connected to the hddvd player. i have 2 questions:

1. is it normal for the projector to tell me that i am receiving a 1920x540p and 59hz signal from the hd-dvd player, even though i am sending a 1080i signal? in the past with my hd directv receiver, connected through component cables, the projector would read 1080i whenever i sent it a 1080i signal.

2. is it normal in the above situation (viewing the hd-dvd player connected to the 4805 through hdmi/dvi/m1) to have what looks like white random pixels surrounding white text whenever it is on the screen? i am not sure if this is what people mean when they say they have sparklies on there screen from a dvi cable. the thing is that this anomaly is not green, but white.

i have eliminated this from being caused by the hd-dvd player because when i hooked my hd directv receiver up to the dvi input i also got the 1920x540p...displayed in the bottom left corner. i also noticed that the strange noise or irregular pixels where there too.

i can only think of 2 causes here. either the 4805 is scaling a high definition signal wrong through the dvi input or i have a bad cable or an incompatibility problem. any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.

on a side note the hd-dvd player playing standard dvds at 480p through the dvi/m1 cable looks phenomenal. noticably better than my previous dvd player the denon 1910 (480p dvi). also, i watched the last samurai hd-dvd last night and the picture quality i will describe as being a little better than the best standard def dvd i have ever viewed on the 4805 (colors were better and wide shots had more detail). the only thing that bothered me was those damn white pixels on the subtitles and the closing scrolling credits looked horrible.

sorry this was soo long but it was bothering me all day and i wanted to describe my situation in as much detail as possible. thanks -mike

1. Some devices output 1080i as 1920x540. This shouldn't be an issue when the 4805 displays this.

2. It could be a bad cable.

If you haven't already, be sure to set your color gains and offsets in the advance picture menu to 58 gain and 28/29 offset.

I've been enjoying this for sometime now (mainly tweeking so far - it gets addictive and frustrating). I still have only seen one entire film! I've put over 30 hours just tweeking and watching 24 every week!

My screen size is about 92", but the main issue is that the top of the screen is just maybe 4" away from the ceiling, which is white.

I understand that that's something I'll have to take care of and I will. I painted the walls to a darker color and it helped somewhat. I placed velvet around the sides (and will make a better border on the top and bottom soon), but the in a way that's also frustrating, showing how black the velvet is compared to the greyish bars in 2.35:1 films. My room is completely light controlled (except for the lights from my HTPC's mouse and the LEDs).

My screen is DIY with Kilz2, so I'll ask the DIY screen section for suggestions as well.
I'm planning on ordering a relatively inexpensive ND2 filter (that should help with black levels right?) but I wanted to make sure the following is OK:

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?cat_id=&pid=4939

BTW, while ordering, should I also get the ND4 filter? Would that offer any improvements in case the ND2 isn't good enough?

Thanks.

fujiyama,

I think an ND4 might be a bit too much from what I've read. The ND2 should be plenty.

What are your current settings? Other equipment? Connections? Any/all of this will help in the analysis of your setup.

fujiyama,

I think an ND4 might be a bit too much from what I've read. The ND2 should be plenty.

What are your current settings? Other equipment? Connections? Any/all of this will help in the analysis of your setup.

Right now, it's connected to my PC by way of DVI-M1. It looks very good (as far as clarity goes), but I'm not seeing quite the black levels I thought I could get. Atleast, compared to screenshots I've seen. Part of the reason I've noticed this difference more recently is because I put the velvet on the sides.
For example space scenes on begining of the Fifth Element SB look kind of grayish...
The velvet borders and darker painted walls have helped cut down reflection, but the 'reference' black of the velvet kind of made me think I could do better (granted I'm not looking for CRT blacks but an improvement would be desirable).

So far I've used the standard film settings on the 4805 just adjusting for brightness/contrast on Avia. I also tried using the 58/28.5 color and offset settings...calibrated it both ways using the brightness and contrast tests on Avia, as well as the THX optimizer. One thing is, I don't have the green/blue/red filters. I got the Avia disc from a friend and he lost the filters so no hue/tint adjustments. Things look good. I can calibrate all the tests accordingly...But I'm still wanting to do better (painting the ceiling and buying the ND2 filters will be definete things though). The screen itself is white. Maybe more of a silver would be better. Any suggestions are welcome...

thanks ja phule

i am gonna try and get a new cable. i had already set the gains and offsets as per the 4805 faq.

I recently purchased the Logitech Harmony Xbox360 Universal remote. Maybe you already know, but I just discovered that you can FREEZE an image on the 4805. This would be great for taking screenshots of those HDTV programs if you didn't have an PVR to pause.

Also, the Harmony allows me to EJECT/CLOSE my Panasonic S77 DVD player!

These features weren't available with teh original remote control.

I recently purchased the Logitech Harmony Xbox360 Universal remote. Maybe you already know, but I just discovered that you can FREEZE an image on the 4805. This would be great for taking screenshots of those HDTV programs if you didn't have an PVR to pause.

Also, the Harmony allows me to EJECT/CLOSE my Panasonic S77 DVD player!

These features weren't available with teh original remote control.

There are a ton of other things you can do that I don't know what they are.
Got any clue what Display, NaturallyWide, or Effect does?

I recently purchased the Logitech Harmony Xbox360 Universal remote. Maybe you already know, but I just discovered that you can FREEZE an image on the 4805. This would be great for taking screenshots of those HDTV programs if you didn't have an PVR to pause.

Also, the Harmony allows me to EJECT/CLOSE my Panasonic S77 DVD player!

These features weren't available with teh original remote control.


On one of these thread I has posted all the discrete codes available on the 4805. It was the freeze and I believe a couple more that are not on the original remote.

Hmmm encounter some strange noise from my 4805.

I know how fan noise and color wheel noise sound like, and this noise is definitely not one of them. I am using in Low Power mode.

Description: Its sounds like it right comes off the power plug (not the 3-pin socket, i mean the other end where you slot onto your 4805) . The constant noise sounds like "flying housefly", like a constant "Zzzzzzzz.........." or "Electric Hum". This happens occasionally and is very loud and annoying when it comes; and when other times without the "Zzzzzz" sound, its just normal with abit of noise from the fan/color wheel.


Anyone encounter this before? is it a problem with the power plug? there a way to solve it?

I have the same problem! It's pretty intermittent, it was doing it once every 2 or 3 times I used the projector, but I haven't used my projector in 4 months (moved 3 times) and since hooking it back up it hasn't started again. For me, it makes me grind my teeth-it is a pretty loud sound. It is the Zzzzzzzzz sound (varies in loudness and pitch), but I would describe it maybe as the sounds the blades on a computer fan might make when you hold the edge of a piece of paper up to it the fan. I'm thinking I may need to send it in while still under warranty. I just wish it would do it everytime, so I know I'm not wasting my time by sending it in and them not hearing it.

I'm also wondering if I need to clean mine-when there is no source image or a pure black picture there three "smudges" kind of oval shaped and very blurry. I can't see them at all when there is any sort of an image, or even when a blue screen is up. Is this cleanable? Any other info on either of these issues? Thanks!

Hey guys,

I got a question regarding the PQ I'm getting. I'm using a HTPC with my 4805. I set the Gain/Offset to proper setting. I loaded up a calibration disc I found here on AVS that showed 1-255 and highlighted 16 and 235 as BTB/WTW and set my contrast to 49 and brightness at 50. Anyways, in movies I'm noticing some problems but not sure what it's called. Basically when there's a colour gradient, there are bands of colours to show colour seperation. It's not a smooth gradient. Looks really crappy, like a bad digital image or something. Any ideas?

The gain offset are not nessisarly correct if you are using a PC as the PC may be set up right to began with and your changing the gains and offset are actually messing it up. Try 50:50 on gain and offset and see how that looks.

The gain offset are not nessisarly correct if you are using a PC as the PC may be set up right to began with and your changing the gains and offset are actually messing it up. Try 50:50 on gain and offset and see how that looks.

When I first got my 4805 I left gain/offset at 50/50 and then adjusted brightness/contrast for BTB/WTW. When I set the gain offsets I basically had to change my brightness/contrast to 50/49. So I assume the whole point of gain/offset was to set the correct brightness and contrast levels.

The M1 port on the back of the SP4805 is calibrated at PC levels, everybody heres changes the gain/offset to 58/28.5 or what ever it is because most of the time there is not a PC plugged into that port - theres some other video source. I'd just give it a try with everything at 50 and see if you banding goes away. If your using TheaterTek then I think it should all be at 50 but not positive.

PS: Also be sure your video card has everything set to 50 or halfway/make sure it doen't have a weird color profile loaded.

I have the same problem! It's pretty intermittent, it was doing it once every 2 or 3 times I used the projector, but I haven't used my projector in 4 months (moved 3 times) and since hooking it back up it hasn't started again. For me, it makes me grind my teeth-it is a pretty loud sound. It is the Zzzzzzzzz sound (varies in loudness and pitch), but I would describe it maybe as the sounds the blades on a computer fan might make when you hold the edge of a piece of paper up to it the fan. I'm thinking I may need to send it in while still under warranty. I just wish it would do it everytime, so I know I'm not wasting my time by sending it in and them not hearing it.

I'm also wondering if I need to clean mine-when there is no source image or a pure black picture there three "smudges" kind of oval shaped and very blurry. I can't see them at all when there is any sort of an image, or even when a blue screen is up. Is this cleanable? Any other info on either of these issues? Thanks!If you are using an UPS, try not using it. I had a similar problem with my UPS. I use the power switch on my UPS to turn on the 4805, and the first 5 second had this buzzing/electrical noise. I figured the UPS is not warmed up yet. I don't use a UPS anymore, and there is no more of that noise.

I'm thinking of going with either a Sunpak from here:

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?cat_id=&pid=4939

A Hoya from here:

http://www.digitalfotoclub.com/sc/from-froogle.asp?id=469345292&rf=froogle&dfdate=04_18_2006#shipping

Or the following Tiffen:

http://www.digitalfotoclub.com/sc/product-features.asp?id=843345374

The Tiffen here is the cheapest and I've read that the 0.3 is the equivalent of the ND2. I've also heard they are a good brand.

Any suggestions? I've read that others here have Hoya...but I heard of another type of Hoya called HMC or maybe that's the same thing...

The 58/28.5 gain and offsets setting are used when the source is outputting video at studio DVI levels. Most devices such as a cable box or dvi/hdmi dvd player uses studio levels. A pc playing video using VRM9 also sends video out at studio dvi levels. If you use a pc with overlay you want to set gains/offset back to 50/50.

The 58/28.5 gain and offsets setting are used when the source is outputting video at studio DVI levels. Most devices such as a cable box or dvi/hdmi dvd player uses studio levels. A pc playing video using VRM9 also sends video out at studio dvi levels. If you use a pc with overlay you want to set gains/offset back to 50/50.


Right, I'm using Theatertek VMR9, DXVA on, Renderless mode. 58/28.5 works with 50/49 brightness contrast.

Right, I'm using Theatertek VMR9, DXVA on, Renderless mode. 58/28.5 works with 50/49 brightness contrast.

I used the THX calibrater and Avia and I had to adjust the brightness/contrast more, but I don't have the color glasses so I couldn't do the color/hue tests.

Sorry to jump in this thread but I have a Lamp SP lamp 021 for the 4805 that I no longer need. Brand new never even opened the box.

Long story short, 4805 went bad, big argument and confusion with Big box store extended warranty, warranty company sent me a replacement lamp 3 weeks after the store manager replaced my defective 4805 with a new IN 72, now no need for the 4805 lamp.

Could someone point me in the right direction to help an AVS member, don't really want to go thru the Ebay process as I have never sold anything on it.

Thanks in advance, PM me if need be.

I'm thinking of going with either a Sunpak from here:

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?cat_id=&pid=4939

A Hoya from here:

http://www.digitalfotoclub.com/sc/from-froogle.asp?id=469345292&rf=froogle&dfdate=04_18_2006#shipping

Or the following Tiffen:

http://www.digitalfotoclub.com/sc/product-features.asp?id=843345374

The Tiffen here is the cheapest and I've read that the 0.3 is the equivalent of the ND2. I've also heard they are a good brand.

Any suggestions? I've read that others here have Hoya...but I heard of another type of Hoya called HMC or maybe that's the same thing...

Fuji
Just speaking from a photography point of view, the best of those filters probably is the Hoya. Given the small cost difference between them, might as well go for the best! You might check out The Filter Connection, www.2filter.com. I've dealt with them and they are reputable.

Yep, my color wheel would spin up, but no light from the lamp. I'll try my lamp in my friends projector and see what happens...

I got a hold of a "Customer Advocate" at Infocus. They offered me a 25% discount on a new lamp. I'll probably take them up on it and hope for better luck with a new lamp.

Sorry to jump in this thread but I have a Lamp SP lamp 021 for the 4805 that I no longer need. Brand new never even opened the box.

Long story short, 4805 went bad, big argument and confusion with Big box store extended warranty, warranty company sent me a replacement lamp 3 weeks after the store manager replaced my defective 4805 with a new IN 72, now no need for the 4805 lamp.

Could someone point me in the right direction to help an AVS member, don't really want to go thru the Ebay process as I have never sold anything on it.

Thanks in advance, PM me if need be.

AVS classifieds....you have to be a member to post though...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=125

Also see the post above mine....

Sorry to jump in this thread but I have a Lamp SP lamp 021 for the 4805 that I no longer need. Brand new never even opened the box.

Long story short, 4805 went bad, big argument and confusion with Big box store extended warranty, warranty company sent me a replacement lamp 3 weeks after the store manager replaced my defective 4805 with a new IN 72, now no need for the 4805 lamp.

Could someone point me in the right direction to help an AVS member, don't really want to go thru the Ebay process as I have never sold anything on it.

Thanks in advance, PM me if need be.

SOLD!!!!

How to attach a filter to the lens of 4805? I couldn’t see any threads on the lens. I want to buy a clear UV filter to protect the lens of 4805 without put on/off the lens cover. What kind of filter should I buy and where? (I need a clear protection filter not the ND2)

Thanks

62mm will bit the plastic just fine.

So, is anyone using a Toshiba HD-A1 or HD-XA1 HD-DVD player with the 4805 yet? If so, I'm interested in impressions. :)

mobius...

I'm personally waiting until this whole Blu-Ray + HD-DVD thing works its way out.

That being said, I will be picking up a PS3 when it comes out though.

If the "high-def" DVDs look as good as high-def programming does on my 4805... I think we'll be in good shape!! :D

Sean

I saw one post from a 4805 user in the HD-DVD thread. He seemed happy with the image he was getting after properly calibrating his display.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7508505&&#post7508505

i'm a newbie who's a bit confused about the best cabling strategy and would love some imput.

My 4805 is hanging on the ceiling and i'm about to recable. I have a Cox Cable HD box with an HDMI out, a slightly older receiver (which i'll update someday soon) whose best quality output is component, and a DVD player with component out only (no HDMI). I'm about to add a media center with DV-I.

My initial plans were to buy four cables: HDMI, DV-I, Component, and S-Vid, and run them through to the projector. I don't know if i need both the HDMI and the DV-I, because at this point, I can really only use one of them at a time. I could terminate the Cox box output with an HDMI - M1-A adapter and be good. Or I could use component on the Cox box and use the DV-I out of my media center and terminate that with an adapter. I don't have an HD tuner in my media center, so maybe i don't need the digital out capabiliies - i could just terminate that with a component...

I know the 4805 only has one digital input, so i probably don't need both the HDMI and the DV-I, but i plan to upgrade both my reciever and my projector in the future, so it will be nice to have both.

do I need both of those digital cables? What would you do?

thanks - i really appreciate any feedback.

dsutton01,

Given your situation, I'd just run the Cox and whatever else you have over component, the media center over DVI to M1 (monoprice.com has 25' length for around $27, 6' is about $10). Whenever you decide to upgrade, just get the necessary adapters ($6-$9) though monoprice as well. They're cheap and reliable cables/adapters, and they will have a HDMI switch box coming soon for less than $30.

Thanks Spyder.

Your point about the HDMI switcher is good. i opted for just a DV-I for now (for digital) with adapters, will worry about the rest later.

Thanks again.

People using xbox 360 here, has anyone tried the new GRAW game? In my opinion the graphics on the 4805 are far superior to the ones on a comparable HDTV just because the image looks so much better. It really surprised my that my lowly ED system put out a superior picture on the wall compared to my friend's direct view 30" HD 1080i TV. LOL!

ok guys, here is my problem I have tried the dvi-m1 adpater
and dvi-m1 15"
dvi-m1 25"
dvi-m1 50"

and none seem to display an image.

what am i doing wrong?

ok guys, here is my problem I have tried the dvi-m1 adpater
and dvi-m1 15"
dvi-m1 25"
dvi-m1 50"

and none seem to display an image.

what am i doing wrong?

What are you connecting the cable to?

What are you connecting the cable to?
thank for reply ja phule
the cable is to connect 4805 to Connect3d x800 GT02 through dvi out

k I have a REAL stupid question that i'm sure has been asked before, but the search keywords are used so often i still get hundreds of unuseful threads, so here it is.

Before, using my HTPC, Radeon 9800XT dvi'd out to my 4805, using ATI's Catalyst Control Center, I was able to set my resolution to the 4805 native of 854x480.

Recently, I reinstall my OS. Using (what I thought to be) the exact same setup and software/drivers I used before, now I'm unable to set that resolution. CCC doesn't even offer me a method of inputting a custom resolution, otherwise I'd do that.

Probably a quick and simple answer... Can anyone tell me what I'm missing here?

k I have a REAL stupid question that i'm sure has been asked before, but the search keywords are used so often i still get hundreds of unuseful threads, so here it is.

Before, using my HTPC, Radeon 9800XT dvi'd out to my 4805, using ATI's Catalyst Control Center, I was able to set my resolution to the 4805 native of 854x480.

Recently, I reinstall my OS. Using (what I thought to be) the exact same setup and software/drivers I used before, now I'm unable to set that resolution. CCC doesn't even offer me a method of inputting a custom resolution, otherwise I'd do that.

Probably a quick and simple answer... Can anyone tell me what I'm missing here?

Though my projector have failed to get a resolution, I wouldnt know if my anwer would be correct. But if your dvi-d was working then you can use powerstrip to set the display.

Btw . . . this may be a dumb question but do just plug in your m1-dvi cable into the 4805 and you get a synch on the 4805?

my control panel sees the 4805 but the 4805 do not seem to be able to synch any resoultion.

k I have a REAL stupid question that i'm sure has been asked before, but the search keywords are used so often i still get hundreds of unuseful threads, so here it is.

Before, using my HTPC, Radeon 9800XT dvi'd out to my 4805, using ATI's Catalyst Control Center, I was able to set my resolution to the 4805 native of 854x480.

Recently, I reinstall my OS. Using (what I thought to be) the exact same setup and software/drivers I used before, now I'm unable to set that resolution. CCC doesn't even offer me a method of inputting a custom resolution, otherwise I'd do that.

Probably a quick and simple answer... Can anyone tell me what I'm missing here?

to get the 854x480 pixel mapping to go up (I have an nVidia card), but it's pretty unstable and it resets itself to 848 everytime I exit Theatertek (and that too, it doesn't always set it wheN I'm trying to). In all honestly I don't notice much of a difference (it's a slight bit sharper), but I like keeping it 854 knowing it is 1:1.

to get the 854x480 pixel mapping to go up (I have an nVidia card), but it's pretty unstable and it resets itself to 848 everytime I exit Theatertek (and that too, it doesn't always set it wheN I'm trying to). In all honestly I don't notice much of a difference (it's a slight bit sharper), but I like keeping it 854 knowing it is 1:1.

Yeah but how'd you go about getting it to that res? I thought it was as easy as using CCC in my case (it was before, I don't recall doing anything special) but I don't have that option, not even to force or to custom a resolution.

Though my projector have failed to get a resolution, I wouldnt know if my anwer would be correct. But if your dvi-d was working then you can use powerstrip to set the display.
Btw . . . this may be a dumb question but do just plug in your m1-dvi cable into the 4805 and you get a synch on the 4805?
my control panel sees the 4805 but the 4805 do not seem to be able to synch any resoultion.

I'd rather not use powerstrip. I know theres a way to get this resolution, because I've been using it for 6 months before I reinstalled my OS. I just cant for the life of me figure out how I did it before, because now it's not there. To answer your question, yes, I just plug it in, and as long as I have my video properties set up to detect it, then it will. I have my comp using a monitor, dvi to pj, and s-video to a tv, I have to use CCC to switch between dvi and s-video, for I can't use both at the same time.

Anyone able to figure out what I missed and why I can't get the native res back?

k I have a REAL stupid question that i'm sure has been asked before, but the search keywords are used so often i still get hundreds of unuseful threads, so here it is.

Before, using my HTPC, Radeon 9800XT dvi'd out to my 4805, using ATI's Catalyst Control Center, I was able to set my resolution to the 4805 native of 854x480.

Recently, I reinstall my OS. Using (what I thought to be) the exact same setup and software/drivers I used before, now I'm unable to set that resolution. CCC doesn't even offer me a method of inputting a custom resolution, otherwise I'd do that.

Probably a quick and simple answer... Can anyone tell me what I'm missing here?
Open ccc go to display manager, there you can pick 848x480.

Open ccc go to display manager, there you can pick 848x480.

Thanks, but was pretty sure I was clear on its NOT listed. At least I thought one could figure out thats what I meant. Now what?

Blindmanex,
What resolution are you trying to send to the 4805?

Yeah but how'd you go about getting it to that res? I thought it was as easy as using CCC in my case (it was before, I don't recall doing anything special) but I don't have that option, not even to force or to custom a resolution.



I'd rather not use powerstrip. I know theres a way to get this resolution, because I've been using it for 6 months before I reinstalled my OS. I just cant for the life of me figure out how I did it before, because now it's not there. To answer your question, yes, I just plug it in, and as long as I have my video properties set up to detect it, then it will. I have my comp using a monitor, dvi to pj, and s-video to a tv, I have to use CCC to switch between dvi and s-video, for I can't use both at the same time.

Anyone able to figure out what I missed and why I can't get the native res back?

I used the nVidia drivers to set a custom resolution. I went to 848 then in there they had custom times and I changed the two fields where it says 848 to 854.

I'm not sure how it would be on a non nVidia card...Maybe the drivers have a similar feature. BTW, when you reinstalled the drivers, did you make sure to install updated drivers from the card manufacturer themselves? Because at first I was using powerstrip and it was a pain. I realized then that my nVidia drivers were those that came with Windows which by now had become quite old.

back on post #4199 page 140, i posted about some strange artifacts i was getting around all text and straight white lines on my screen when sending the 4805 a 1080i signal through the m1 input. Ja Phule suggested that i change the gains/offsets and/or that it may be a bad cable. my gains/offsets had been set to studio levels a long while ago so i took option number 2, replacing the cable. in any event, i just spent a little over $100 on an infocus hdmi/m1 adapter and a 25foot blue jeans hdmi cable. i received the cable and adapter yesterday and immediately hooked them up. well you can imagine how upset i was to find out that this solution did not solve anything. i still had these annoying random artifacts. the next thing i did was tore appart my complete system. i removed all cables and components 1 at a time to see if anything was causing this anomally. when i got to the point where the only 2 things connected were the projector and my hd-dvd player i declared the 4805 to be the culprit. so off i went to the settings menu to see if i had somehow missed something. after playing with every setting i decided to try the keystone setting, which i had never adjusted before. well i clicked it down 1 notch to 49 and presto, no more problem. to be honest, all the keystone positions, other than 50, produced none of the previously mentioned artifacts. so, i guess problem solved. what i ultimately did was leave the keystone at the 49.5 position and put the issue to bed. i really didn't notice any picture quality loss at the 49.5 setting, even though i have been told to avoid digital keystoning like the plague. i guess my 4805 has a flaw or defect. any thought on this would be greatly appreciated. i would have to think any ill effects this minor keystoning produces would be far less annoying than the previous problem. i really dont want to deal with a warranty issue, because i can not live without my 4805 (unless i got a better one).
Thanks for reading this. Oh and i will be able to return the cable and adapter.

back on post #4199 page 140, i posted about some strange artifacts i was getting around all text and straight white lines on my screen when sending the 4805 a 1080i signal through the m1 input. Ja Phule suggested that i change the gains/offsets and/or that it may be a bad cable. my gains/offsets had been set to studio levels a long while ago so i took option number 2, replacing the cable. in any event, i just spent a little over $100 on an infocus hdmi/m1 adapter and a 25foot blue jeans hdmi cable. i received the cable and adapter yesterday and immediately hooked them up. well you can imagine how upset i was to find out that this solution did not solve anything. i still had these annoying random artifacts. the next thing i did was tore appart my complete system. i removed all cables and components 1 at a time to see if anything was causing this anomally. when i got to the point where the only 2 things connected were the projector and my hd-dvd player i declared the 4805 to be the culprit. so off i went to the settings menu to see if i had somehow missed something. after playing with every setting i decided to try the keystone setting, which i had never adjusted before. well i clicked it down 1 notch to 49 and presto, no more problem. to be honest, all the keystone positions, other than 50, produced none of the previously mentioned artifacts. so, i guess problem solved. what i ultimately did was leave the keystone at the 49.5 position and put the issue to bed. i really didn't notice any picture quality loss at the 49.5 setting, even though i have been told to avoid digital keystoning like the plague. i guess my 4805 has a flaw or defect. any thought on this would be greatly appreciated. i would have to think any ill effects this minor keystoning produces would be far less annoying than the previous problem. i really dont want to deal with a warranty issue, because i can not live without my 4805 (unless i got a better one).
Thanks for reading this. Oh and i will be able to return the cable and adapter.


I'm sorry I haven't been following this thread much lately, I could have saved you some money. I've experienced very similar artifacts (one of the artifacts was a white outline around BTB test bars) which I also solved by using keystone. The culprit is Edge ehhancement and/or excessive sharpness levels. My Panny S97 introduced very annoying EE through HDMI at 480p, which could be eliminated by employing keystone at the PJ. I never felt comfortable with these two wrongs making a right so I bought a new player.

It may be worthwhile to check out the PJ's sharpness setting for the component 480i or S-video inputs as this setting will transfer to the digital input. You may very well have this setting on "sharpest" and if so reducing this sharpness level while probably will not solve your problem it should help. Regardless of the present setting try reducing it.

Does anyone with a modded xbox have any advice on playing DVDs at high quality? I would like to push my performance with that big black box because it's a media powerhouse!

epsilon9090,
I'm using a modded Xbox running XBMC (xbox media center) 480i and let the 4805's Faroudja do its magic. I would not recommend running at 480p, 720p, 1080i. The deinterlacing of the xbox is horrible. I think there might be something wrong with the XBMC dvd player output because I get interlacing artifacts at 480i sometimes but it's not an issue most of the time.

If you haven't already check out the XBMC thread from the media server area.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=635294

Blindmanex,
What resolution are you trying to send to the 4805?

800 x 600
1024 x 768

Blindmanex,
Does your DVI output from your pc work with other monitors fine? Do you have any other dvi sources you can test out with the 4805? Maybe try a shorter DVI cable? Try VGA using the infocus vga/m1 cable see if that works as a test (to test out the m1 port).

Blindmanex,
Does your DVI output from your pc work with other monitors fine? Do you have any other dvi sources you can test out with the 4805? Maybe try a shorter DVI cable? Try VGA using the infocus vga/m1 cable see if that works as a test (to test out the m1 port).


The DVI output works with other monitor. The cable I have bought are from "monoprice". I have tried three cable the 50, 25, and the dvi to m1 adapater. The x800 is able to detect the 4805 but the 4805 do not seem to display a signal.

The DVI output works with other monitor. The cable I have bought are from "monoprice". I have tried three cable the 50, 25, and the dvi to m1 adapater. The x800 is able to detect the 4805 but the 4805 do not seem to display a signal.

Can't say I know what the problem is. Do you have the 4805 on autosource? If so, try selecting PC source directly via the remote or via the button on the 4805.

Can't say I know what the problem is. Do you have the 4805 on autosource? If so, try selecting PC source directly via the remote or via the button on the 4805.


You mean the computer soruce? with the usb icon?

I have done the computer with the usb icon and it just wont display anything from dvi. yet it works fine through the analog display.

So is this new v1.3.2 firmware stable enough to finally upgrade my 1.02 system with without negative side effects? A search turned up only one related hit, after all the ongoing posts about the "flicker" issue this is suppose to fix?

So is this new v1.3.2 firmware stable enough to finally upgrade my 1.02 system with without negative side effects? A search turned up only one related hit, after all the ongoing posts about the "flicker" issue this is suppose to fix?

I ran 1.0.2 for the longest time because I had the flicker issue with the other firmwares.

Finally upgraded to 1.3.2 about 2 weeks ago and so far everything seems to be running fine. I am just glad I don't have to have to 'Auto Image' while switching from SD to HD anymore as well.

One thing freaked me out though. When I downloaded the firmware, and installed it, the read-me told me to expect a 'Firmware Successfully Installed' message at the end of the installation. I did not get that message and it freaked me out and was afraid to restart the projector due to screwing up my firmware image. But if you click the 'Config' button, by default, the 'Completion Message Box' is unchecked.

Long story short, the flashing of the image was fine. After recalibrating, everything seems to be working okay and looks good. 720 hours on the lamp with 2 dust blob removal procedures(thanks to Super Goop's tutorial)

Elfman,

Glad to here it. Yeah, the 1080i to 480i problem when channel surfing is a bit annoying. I'm more interested in the DVI input handling 1080i better. The DVI connection from my LST-4200A to the SP4805 was simply unacceptable versus uses the component connection. Might be a LST problem rather than a SP problem, but I was unwilling to try a non-initial-release firmware until they got the quality issues addressed.

Thanks,
Scott

So is this new v1.3.2 firmware stable enough to finally upgrade my 1.02 system with without negative side effects? A search turned up only one related hit, after all the ongoing posts about the "flicker" issue this is suppose to fix?There's more feedback in the Infocus Firmware Upgrade Petition threadwww.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=543025&highlight=petition I upgraded from v1.02 and it's been smooth sailing.

Though my projector have failed to get a resolution, I wouldnt know if my anwer would be correct. But if your dvi-d was working then you can use powerstrip to set the display.

Btw . . . this may be a dumb question but do just plug in your m1-dvi cable into the 4805 and you get a synch on the 4805?

my control panel sees the 4805 but the 4805 do not seem to be able to synch any resoultion.

Your M1-DVI port may be dead. Mine died, too. If you do some searches in this thread (and perhaps the original "official 4805" thread, too,) you'll find other owners who's had the same problem.

The symptom is that your source device acts as if a display is connected via DVI-D (e.g. your HTPC) or via HDMI (e.g. your set-top box,) but 4805 would not see any signal and project only blank.

I hope this is not the case for you.

Your M1-DVI port may be dead. Mine died, too. If you do some searches in this thread (and perhaps the original "official 4805" thread, too,) you'll find other owners who's had the same problem.

The symptom is that your source device acts as if a display is connected via DVI-D (e.g. your HTPC) or via HDMI (e.g. your set-top box,) but 4805 would not see any signal and project only blank.

I hope this is not the case for you.


Did you get the vga to work through M1?

Infocus told me because I am not using their cable thats proabbly why it dosnt work.

Now if it was one cable form monoprice I would have believe infocus but with 3 cable and adapter I doubt its faulty cable.

I am now consdiering returing it back to costco after 1 year of use. Do you know if Infocus pay for shipping for warrenty repair?

Hi-

I may have an issue with the new firmware. I posted it here, in the firmware thread. (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7547477#post7547477)

FYI...