I was doing a scheduled maintenance cleaning of the lamp housing screen, my second cleaning by the way. As I was examining the inside lamp housing for dust I noticed the color wheel looked a little strange, after close examination I noticed that the red section of the color has 2 notches. I did not notice this the first time I cleaned the lamp filters maybe because the color wheel had stopped on another color. I haven't noticed any PQ loss whatsoever. For all 4805 owners can you confirm the notches the next time you clean your lamp filters? Like I said before the PQ has not changed at all. I just want to know if the notches on the color wheel is by design, if so I will not worry about it. But, if it's not by design then I am concerned that one day the color wheel will shatter or something.

Here is a picture of the color wheel:

Colorwheel (http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphoto.php/photo/20531/cat/508)

Did you get the vga to work through M1?

Infocus told me because I am not using their cable thats proabbly why it dosnt work.

Now if it was one cable form monoprice I would have believe infocus but with 3 cable and adapter I doubt its faulty cable.

I am now consdiering returing it back to costco after 1 year of use. Do you know if Infocus pay for shipping for warrenty repair?

VGA works fine. DVI-D and HDMI don't (i.e. analog okay, digital no go.) It was all working well for about 6 weeks.

For warranty repairs, you pay shipping to them, they pay shipping to you. Mine was a refurb, and it happened about 2 weeks after warranty expired. Since the PQ is still excellent through component video and M1-VGA with computer set to 720p, I never bothered to get it fixed.

Sorry if this is repeated I couldn't really find anything from searching.

I have a 4805 hooked up to a D1 with dvi cable pixel mapped looks great, also to a xbox 360, also working great.

I just got a second comcast hd box today and all the channels come in except the HD channels. I have the cable box hooked up via blue jean 25ft. component cable. The channels look like there trying to come in but won't. They work just fine on my Plasma tv upstairs. Is there a setting i'm missing?

Any help with be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Sorry if this is repeated I couldn't really find anything from searching.

I have a 4805 hooked up to a D1 with dvi cable pixel mapped looks great, also to a xbox 360, also working great.

I just got a second comcast hd box today and all the channels come in except the HD channels. I have the cable box hooked up via blue jean 25ft. component cable. The channels look like there trying to come in but won't. They work just fine on my Plasma tv upstairs. Is there a setting i'm missing?

Any help with be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Try adjusting the sync threshhold in the advanced picture menu.

Any idea why I don't see that under the picture advanced menu. The last item I see in the menu is Overscan.

Found the problem. Thanks for the help Ja Phule. It's the piece of junk component video switcher. Bypassed it and it works fine now. Is there a good switch out there with low loss. And possibly should I look for a DVI one to switch between cable and Bravo D1.

Thanks.

And possibly should I look for a DVI one to switch between cable and Bravo D1.
Thanks.

monoprice.com is going to have a HDMI switcher for about $30 very soon, if cost is an issue for you. Just need to buy an inexpensive adapter or two.

I would like to get hold of firmware v1.2.1, but it's been removed from the InFocus website now that v1.3.2 is available.
Anyone has v1.2.1 on his/her computer and would like to share it with me? :)
Or any other suggestions where I can download v.1.2.1?

I have been a happy 4805 owner now for about 7 months. I have a little over 400 hours on the lamp, and I have already done 1 filter cleaning at 250 hours. There was hardly any dust on the filter at this point.

This weekend I plan on cleaning the filter, the dust blob, and the color wheel. I am a little nervous about the dust blob and color wheel cleaning. Has anyone had any problems, or broken their 4805 by doing this cleaning?

Any suggestions on the order that I should do the cleanings?

Has anyone tried to clean the inside/outside of the lense assembly? Should this be done too?


Thanks,

John

So take the housing apart... :p

-W

I have been a happy 4805 owner now for about 7 months. I have a little over 400 hours on the lamp, and I have already done 1 filter cleaning at 250 hours. There was hardly any dust on the filter at this point.

This weekend I plan on cleaning the filter, the dust blob, and the color wheel. I am a little nervous about the dust blob and color wheel cleaning. Has anyone had any problems, or broken their 4805 by doing this cleaning?

Thanks,

John

If you had very little dust on the filter, then why would you clean a dust blob. Do you have one? My motto is "if it ain't broke don't try and fix it." :D

If you had very little dust on the filter, then why would you clean a dust blob. Do you have one? My motto is "if it ain't broke don't try and fix it." :D


I do not know why I have a dust blob. But I know for sure that I do. I think the cleanliness of the lamp filter may be independent of the chance of getting a dust blob.

My 4805 is just 1 month old, and so far i am very happy with the image quality.

there's something that keeps bugging me:

i am currently using 4805 in 'LOW POWER' mode, i feel that the fan-noise/color-wheel-noise is rather disturbing during silent scenes. a friend of mine who also owns 4805 mentioned that its the color-wheel-noise because the color-wheel is still new(as what he learnt from our local service center). he also mentioned that the color-wheel-noise will reduce gradually with time. currently the lamp hour used is 60 hours, and i do find this noise unbearable. pls can anyone help me on this.

is it true that 4805 will have loud color-wheel noise at first? will the color-wheel-noise reduce gradually with time? is there a way to reduce this noise?

My personal experience is that my 4805 sounds pretty much just like it did the first day I got it. I belive the fan noise is the normal air wooshing noise and the color wheel is more of a physical grinding or screeching noise.

The noise from the 4805 should mostly be the fan. You shouldn't be receiving a whine noise from the color wheel. I get the color wheel whine sometimes but it usually goes away quickly. The fan will also run louder in high power mode or if it's not getting enough cooling in low power.

In other news, after a little over 2000 hours I've finally taken my ND2 filter off.

The noise from the 4805 should mostly be the fan. You shouldn't be receiving a whine noise from the color wheel. I get the color wheel whine sometimes but it usually goes away quickly. The fan will also run louder in high power mode or if it's not getting enough cooling in low power.

In other news, after a little over 2000 hours I've finally taken my ND2 filter off.

I get a constant very high pitch sound from my color wheel.... it's not so much of a whine. Once in a while there is a buzz sound that is even louder but once the projector gets up to temp it goes away.

Has anyone thought of using the color wheel from the IN72 on their 4805? My brother's is in the room next to mine and his has some fan sound but it doesn't have that High pitch sound to it. I wonder what's different between the two concerning the color wheel.

Anybody try using the Yamaha receivers 1600/2600 with HDMI switching with the 4805. Any reason it may not handshake.

I get a constant very high pitch sound from my color wheel.... it's not so much of a whine. Once in a while there is a buzz sound that is even louder but once the projector gets up to temp it goes away.

Has anyone thought of using the color wheel from the IN72 on their 4805? My brother's is in the room next to mine and his has some fan sound but it doesn't have that High pitch sound to it. I wonder what's different between the two concerning the color wheel.

Hmm... I don't think it's normal to have any noise from the color wheel I think. I'd probably check with Infocus about it if it bothers you.

I think every projector has a color wheel designed specifically for it. The new IN series uses a completely new color wheel assembly from what I understand which eliminates the buzzsaw whine issues from the 4805.

Hmm... I don't think it's normal to have any noise from the color wheel I think. I'd probably check with Infocus about it if it bothers you.

I think every projector has a color wheel designed specifically for it. The new IN series uses a completely new color wheel assembly from what I understand which eliminates the buzzsaw whine issues from the 4805.

so what you're telling me is that when you turn on your 4805 you hear no high pitch sound whatsoever and only hear a woshing sound coming from the fan..... I would say that the IN72 and 4805 have a close to same sound with "fan" noise, but 4805 has the color wheel noise. I thought that was what all hype was about with the new IN7X models.

By the way, I'm not going to lie....... the new models are pretty sweet! The only thing I've found lacking is that there is no Zoom mode for all the 4:3 letter box material.... and no Letterbox mode is not what i'm looking for it only stretches the top and bottom....I'm talking about stretching the sides as well.

I have a harmony remote and it says there is a zoom for the 4805 and the IN72, but when I push it nothing happens.

so what you're telling me is that when you turn on your 4805 you hear no high pitch sound whatsoever and only hear a woshing sound coming from the fan..... I would say that the IN72 and 4805 have a close to same sound with "fan" noise, but 4805 has the color wheel noise. I thought that was what all hype was about with the new IN7X models.

By the way, I'm not going to lie....... the new models are pretty sweet! The only thing I've found lacking is that there is no Zoom mode for all the 4:3 letter box material.... and no Letterbox mode is not what i'm looking for it only stretches the top and bottom....I'm talking about stretching the sides as well.

I have a harmony remote and it says there is a zoom for the 4805 and the IN72, but when I push it nothing happens.

Nate,

I think a lot of those codes on the Harmony remotes are for other InFocus units. It makes sense that Harmony would lump those codes together to reduce work on there end. On our end we just have to page through more non functional stuff. It is nice to have the freeze function for screen shots however( Not on 4805 remote but works on the Harmony). I love my Harmony remote!!! :D

No reponses to my inquiry on the If4805/Bravo D1 thread, so I thought I'd try here.

WEll, I finally got around to hooking up/configuring the D1 with the 25' monoprice DVI-M1 cable. Watched LotR: Two Towers and Braveheart. Noticed huge pixelation/blocking in the sky/clouds during some scenes. Chucked both DVDs back into non-converting JVC player over component at 480p and they were still there, but the imperfections were greatly reduced.

The scenes that were the worst were where Aragorn is riding alone to Helm's Deep after falling off the cliff, the opening of disc 2 where Gimli is talking about dwarf women on horseback, and the opening of Braveheart with the cinematic shots of the scenery.

What the hell? Is this just part of the transfers, or am I doing something wrong? I set the #s to 71hz, as specified in the charts listed on this thread. Also tried the 48hz #s, but same thing. I even tried the D1s default settings, but same thing again. I really didn't see much improvement except for a small bit of detail with the D1 over the JVC with any of the discs I tried. I really was expecting a huge difference, but I can't live with these completely distracting things just to get a tiny improvement in detail.

Any suggestions?

Hey, everyone!

I recently got a 4-way DVI switcher model DRM-1714F so that I could input my computer, Momistsu DVD player, and Comcast digital cable all into my M1 port on my 4805. The switcher works BEAUTIFULLY for my computer and the Momitsu... outputting a beautiful image. (I'm 1:1 pixel mapping the Momitsu, and the image takes my breath away!) No problems with the switcher...

... until Comcast showed up last weekend to hook me up with Digital Cable and HDTV.

Because of the problem I'm about to describe, I'm "forced" to use component out from my digital cable box to the projector. The image is good, but I KNOW it can be better if I use the DVI out on the digital box. Here is what happens:

When I hook up the DVI out from the cable box DIRECTLY to the 4805, the image is fine. (It can output up to 1080i, which is of course downscaled by the projector.) But when I try to hook up the DVI out from the cable box THROUGH THE SWITCHER, I get a perfect beautiful image for about three seconds and then the screen goes black!

When I check the menu on the projector, it says it is getting a 1080i image, but there is nothing there. If I turn the cable box off, the screen goes blue (my default blank color) indicating a loss of signal. If I turn the cable box on again, the picture appears again... for about three seconds... then goes black again.

I've had three different cable guys out from Comcast, plus they've called in to their center and spoken to other technicians there. They are all at a loss, and say they've never seen anything like it. (Of course they say it is the fault of my projector or the switcher, which could be the case.)

I've tried everything I can think of... two different DVI cables... I've tried all four outputs from the 4-way switcher... the cable people have brought in to my living room a total of three cable boxes, including two completely different models... I've played around with some of the settings on my projector. (All that did was made the picture change to shades of GREEN over component, and I had to go back to the default picture settings to fix the image.) I've tried all different image quality outputs (480p, 720i, 720p, 1080i). And it effects the HD channels as well as the SD channels, it is all black.

I'm at a loss.

Anyone have any ideas??? Is there some kind of compatibility issue between the Comcast cable box and my switcher??? (I don't see how, since it handles the images from the Momitsu and computer just fine.)

Why would the image show up for three seconds, then go away??? And why would the screen go black and the projector claim to be getting a 1080i or whatever image... which indicates to me that it is getting SOMETHING... rather than just going blue??? :confused:

Why would the image show up for three seconds, then go away??? And why would the screen go black and the projector claim to be getting a 1080i or whatever image... which indicates to me that it is getting SOMETHING... rather than just going blue??? :confused:

Bennan, I feel your pain. I upgraded today to monoprice's 5x1 HDMI switcher (great product) instead of going the DVI switcher route and have had no problems with any of my DVI sources (i.e. D1, ATSC HDTV etc.) The problem you are describing is indeed strange and would probably would have expected it with an HDMI switch but not a DVI switch. The only guess I could make is that the HDTV box has a low power output that gets lower through the switch and thus falls below acceptable levels, but that is purely a wild guess on my part. Another possibility is that the DDC2 (bi-directional control) is not implemented correctly if it is being used by the HDTV box, this is another guess. Hopefully someone can jump in and help you out. Good luck.

Bennan did you try to hook the comcast direct to the 4805 with the DVI cable?
That would tell you whether it was the switch or not.

No reponses to my inquiry on the If4805/Bravo D1 thread, so I thought I'd try here.
Now that's hardly fair.

3 people responded to your post in the D1 thread , including myself.

Quick 4805 question:

Can I use a VGA->component adapter to send a PC signal to the 4805?

Yes, I know I could use the VGA->M1 adapter to the M1 port, but I have a DVI device connected there already and it would be easier to swap in the PC input to the component jacks (or use a component switch), than remove and replace the M1 connector every time.

So will VGA->component work and will the PQ be as good as if I used the M1 port?

Why would the image show up for three seconds, then go away??? And why would the screen go black and the projector claim to be getting a 1080i or whatever image... which indicates to me that it is getting SOMETHING... rather than just going blue??? :confused:

Hi-

I might have (had) a similar problem, but I am not sure. First, which firmware do you have? Then, check your sync threshold. I think (but need some clarification) that you need to turn the sync threshold higher to stabilize the picture.

By the way, I did not have this issue until I went from the initial firmware to the latest. I've only watched two movies since that happened. With the first one, The Incredibles, the issue did not come up until the credits at the end. Here, the screen turned black and showed 480i, similar to you. It was not "searching for signal".

After that I turned my sync threshold up to 63 (arbitrary) and watched King Kong. There were no issues.

Again, this is a new issue for me, but it might help you. Hope it does...

Thanks,

Not possible. VGA uses 5 signal lines and component uses 3.

VGA is RGBHV. (horizontal and vertical sync are seperate)
Component is YPrPb. (combines colors)

At best you will have a picture with one color...
probably wouldn't work at all if the 4805 is picky about signals.

There are special 5 cable "component-> vga" adapters. But they would only work if you had a projector that has a shared (HD-15) VGA-Component port. A Vga signal could never work with straight component....

Quick 4805 question:

Can I use a VGA->component adapter to send a PC signal to the 4805?

Yes, I know I could use the VGA->M1 adapter to the M1 port, but I have a DVI device connected there already and it would be easier to swap in the PC input to the component jacks (or use a component switch), than remove and replace the M1 connector every time.

So will VGA->component work and will the PQ be as good as if I used the M1 port?

I've had my 4805 for about a month now and was going to hook up the projector to the hd cable box via a M1 to DVI cable from monoprice. When I tried to fish the cable thru the conduit it made it about 3 feet before becoming lodged. I tried everything to get it back out either forward or backward but no way. The cable ended up breaking off at the connection. Well to make a long story short I got it back out and need to figure a new way to get the cable threw. It looks like I might have to live without this connection :mad: I don't want to get it stuck again so that I cant get any cables threw.

Not possible. VGA uses 5 signal lines and component uses 3.

Thanks for the info!

Hey, everyone!

I recently got a 4-way DVI switcher model DRM-1714F so that I could input my computer, Momistsu DVD player, and Comcast digital cable all into my M1 port on my 4805. The switcher works BEAUTIFULLY for my computer and the Momitsu... outputting a beautiful image. (I'm 1:1 pixel mapping the Momitsu, and the image takes my breath away!) No problems with the switcher...

... until Comcast showed up last weekend to hook me up with Digital Cable and HDTV.

Because of the problem I'm about to describe, I'm "forced" to use component out from my digital cable box to the projector. The image is good, but I KNOW it can be better if I use the DVI out on the digital box. Here is what happens:

When I hook up the DVI out from the cable box DIRECTLY to the 4805, the image is fine. (It can output up to 1080i, which is of course downscaled by the projector.) But when I try to hook up the DVI out from the cable box THROUGH THE SWITCHER, I get a perfect beautiful image for about three seconds and then the screen goes black!

When I check the menu on the projector, it says it is getting a 1080i image, but there is nothing there. If I turn the cable box off, the screen goes blue (my default blank color) indicating a loss of signal. If I turn the cable box on again, the picture appears again... for about three seconds... then goes black again.

I've had three different cable guys out from Comcast, plus they've called in to their center and spoken to other technicians there. They are all at a loss, and say they've never seen anything like it. (Of course they say it is the fault of my projector or the switcher, which could be the case.)

I've tried everything I can think of... two different DVI cables... I've tried all four outputs from the 4-way switcher... the cable people have brought in to my living room a total of three cable boxes, including two completely different models... I've played around with some of the settings on my projector. (All that did was made the picture change to shades of GREEN over component, and I had to go back to the default picture settings to fix the image.) I've tried all different image quality outputs (480p, 720i, 720p, 1080i). And it effects the HD channels as well as the SD channels, it is all black.

I'm at a loss.

Anyone have any ideas??? Is there some kind of compatibility issue between the Comcast cable box and my switcher??? (I don't see how, since it handles the images from the Momitsu and computer just fine.)

Why would the image show up for three seconds, then go away??? And why would the screen go black and the projector claim to be getting a 1080i or whatever image... which indicates to me that it is getting SOMETHING... rather than just going blue??? :confused:

Take the switcher out of the loop to isolate where problem is, if the cable box works fine with no switcher then there is your problem, if the problem still exists then it's in either the pj or the cable box ( and with the number of cable boxes you were through I would doubt it's that).

Also don't just blindly assume that DVI will look better than component. Component is a very robust transfer method and in many cases is just as good as DVI and some cases better.

Quick 4805 question:

Can I use a VGA->component adapter to send a PC signal to the 4805?

Yes, I know I could use the VGA->M1 adapter to the M1 port, but I have a DVI device connected there already and it would be easier to swap in the PC input to the component jacks (or use a component switch), than remove and replace the M1 connector every time.

So will VGA->component work and will the PQ be as good as if I used the M1 port?

The answer is yes sometimes. Some video cards can output component with a vga to comp dongle. But this must be supported by the vid card.

Also while it's true that VGA uses 5 signal lines vs components 3, technically you could pass 5 signals and a ground over 3 component cables if you replace the ground on 2 of the cables with actual signal. That would give you 5 total signal lines (3 cores and 2 shieldings) and one ground (1 shielding). Not aviseable.

hi,

i do have another question about my new 4805.

Normally whenever the 'Toggle Power' switch on 4805 is switched on, a very 'cool robotic' startup sound can be heard, followed up by projection of image.

Occasionally when i switch on the 'Toggle Power' on 4805, there is no 'robotic' startup sound, and no projection image. this has happened around 4 to 5 times throughout the first month of usage.

Does any 4805 owners experience this? is this situation normal?

hi,

i do have another question about my new 4805.

Normally whenever the 'Toggle Power' switch on 4805 is switched on, a very 'cool robotic' startup sound can be heard, followed up by projection of image.

Occasionally when i switch on the 'Toggle Power' on 4805, there is no 'robotic' startup sound, and no projection image. this has happened around 4 to 5 times throughout the first month of usage.

Does any 4805 owners experience this? is this situation normal?

I've had this happen a number of times and have asked the same question. I don't recall getting any definitive replies on whether it's "normal" or not, but despite the fact that it happens occasionaly, the PJ seems fine otherwise. Maybe you'll get a definite answer and then we'll both know.

If the cool robotic noice you hear is a boop kind of tone that is the normal startup sound that tells you things are going ok, if you fail to hear this and especially if you fail to get a picture then something is wrong.

Does the fan always turn on (you would hear it)?

Does the small light on top (or bottom if it's ceiling mounted) flash either read or green?

With this info you can contact IF support to find out if you should persue this further. It sounds like something is not right...

Now that's hardly fair.

3 people responded to your post in the D1 thread , including myself.

Sorry, my bad...While I completely appreciate any responses I can get in regard to an inquiry, I should have said I didn't get any definite or specific answers in regard to my specific question. Wes was at a loss, given my settings, but said he would check the film. aaranddeeman said he saw (but also didn't see at 48hz) what I saw. Then you, scooterboy, responded by saying that you saw something completely different than what I saw and not on the same film. While I thank you all for your replies, I wouldn't really call any of those definite answers to a specific inquiry. I thought if I described the scenes in detail, someone might be able to throw in Braveheart or LotR for 30 seconds and do a direct comparison. Not that anyone here owes me any answers or their time, but I've seen much more complex and time-consuming issues answered easily, so I thought this might not be too large a task for someone to directly check. No offense intended, scooterboy.

No offense intended, scooterboy.
Oh, none taken! I should have added a smiley to my reply. I didn't mean to sound hurt or anything. :)

And if I get a chance, I'll look at Braveheart and LOTR and tell you what I see.

Well guys I cannot let the SP4805 go - ordered a new lamp - figure I will set it up as a game room system. So I should have a review of it with a shiny new lamp - and I will clean the color wheel. Give folks a baseline review when they are upgrading or if they get in on the closeout/refurb sales... I'll just point to the shiney new case of the IN76 and say this picture with that shiney new case! :D Been a fun two years - pretty amazing that this is still at the top of the sticky threads :D!

This PJ and it's community are both extraordinary. :) We'll be on top for a while yet.

-W

Hmmm encounter some strange noise from my 4805.

I know how fan noise and color wheel noise sound like, and this noise is definitely not one of them. I am using in Low Power mode.

Description: Its sounds like it right comes off the power plug (not the 3-pin socket, i mean the other end where you slot onto your 4805) . The constant noise sounds like "flying housefly", like a constant "Zzzzzzzz.........." or "Electric Hum". This happens occasionally and is very loud and annoying when it comes; and when other times without the "Zzzzzz" sound, its just normal with abit of noise from the fan/color wheel.


Anyone encounter this before? is it a problem with the power plug? there a way to solve it?

Regarding the another problem(as above) i have asked about last time, so the solution is to get a longer 3rd-party Power Cord? is it recommended?

Currently i am using UPS, which is the root of the problem as discussed, and also the supplied Power Cord is too short for my setup.

Please enlighten me :o

Well guys I cannot let the SP4805 go - ordered a new lamp - figure I will set it up as a game room system. So I should have a review of it with a shiny new lamp - and I will clean the color wheel. Give folks a baseline review when they are upgrading or if they get in on the closeout/refurb sales... I'll just point to the shiney new case of the IN76 and say this picture with that shiney new case! :D Been a fun two years - pretty amazing that this is still at the top of the sticky threads :D!

It still amazes me what I got for what I paid. Having a HT like this... I have to pinch myself sometime... a kid's fanatasy come true.

I got a buddy to get one of these, too. He and his wife are amazed as well.

I remember seeing Jay Leno in high def at a JVC demo booth via their 20k D-ILA pj at the Stereophile Home Entertainment Show in (I believe) 2004. It was an incredible picture. I only dreamed of seeing something like that in my apartment. The little 4805 brought something quite close to that experience wiothin my reach and I've been grateful ever since. Everyone has different preferences, but mine seems to be color accuracy and black level, the resolution's not as important ( didn't say unimportant;) The 4805 was clearly in the same class when looking at colors and black level. Amazing! Thanks to Mr. Williams.

It still amazes me what I got for what I paid. Having a HT like this... I have to pinch myself sometime... a kid's fanatasy come true.

I got a buddy to get one of these, too. He and his wife are amazed as well.

I totally agree with ya'll. This is my best purchase of a video source to date. Running 1080i video source through the DVI-D/M1 port (Dish HD/DVD upscaling) I can not believe the picture. I need to add a Bravo D1 1:1 pixel mapping DVD just to see a quality improvement, but there is not a better PJ for the money. I gees I could get a 720P machine, but it would only improve the HD content and I've seen them in stores and I can't see a difference when I get home. I guess to only see an improvement would be to do a demo side by side, but heck if that is the case then mine is good enough. I'll spend the extra $$$ on speakers. Or a better screen which may improve the picture, like replacing my 92" Diag. 1.o draper with a Da-lite 1.1 106" electric HCMW or 1.5 video spectra. :)

Which brings me to the topic of screens. What is a Great screen for the 4805, for ceiling mounting. I've had a Da-Lite Hi Power since the beginning (tabletop mounting), but I understand it will not be so good when I go to the ceiling.

I'd like it to be fixed and under 1K. The future room will be totally light controlled, maybe some lights when gaming.

Contact me if you want to buy a 92 inch hi-power. It has one wave, but on a high power - I absolutely cannot tell. I wouldn't sell it if I could see waves while watching it.

Getting the same gain for ceiling mount is a tough order - especially in pulldowns.

Draper M2500 (stretch vinyl), Vutec SilverStar (fixed hard screen)

However DaLite HCMW i just about perfect for 92" but you will be jumping down from TV brightness to movie brightness.

Well guys I cannot let the SP4805 go - ordered a new lamp - figure I will set it up as a game room system. So I should have a review of it with a shiny new lamp - and I will clean the color wheel. Give folks a baseline review when they are upgrading or if they get in on the closeout/refurb sales... I'll just point to the shiney new case of the IN76 and say this picture with that shiney new case! :D Been a fun two years - pretty amazing that this is still at the top of the sticky threads :D!

Phooyey

Lamps are on unknown backorder. Guess I missed the boat.

Got a SP4800/X1 lamp though for my brother - guess I could rereview that? :p

My 4805 is still going strong, almost at 3000 hours now. Now that I clean the filter regularly I haven't had a reoccurrence of the color wheel buzzing in 5 months since I started cleaning at 300 hr mark.

Even my wife agrees its the best money we've spent. I'll probably be shopping for a new bulb soon so hopefully they'll get them back out on market. For what the whole projector is going for, its a steal for anyone wanting to get into dedicated HT.

If I had young kids, I'd definitely be setting this in another room for video games and getting myself a new 76...but can't justify it just for myself;)

Phooyey

Lamps are on unknown backorder. Guess I missed the boat.

Got a SP4800/X1 lamp though for my brother - guess I could rereview that? :p


are you saying your going to do the Bulb mod? It is my understanding that taking out the X1/4800 bulb and putting it in the SP4805 housing is a piece of cake. Thats what I plan to do when I need to or if I ever see a steal on X1/4800 lamps.

My 4805 is still going strong, almost at 3000 hours now. Now that I clean the filter regularly I haven't had a reoccurrence of the color wheel buzzing in 5 months since I started cleaning at 300 hr mark.

Even my wife agrees its the best money we've spent. I'll probably be shopping for a new bulb soon so hopefully they'll get them back out on market. For what the whole projector is going for, its a steal for anyone wanting to get into dedicated HT.

If I had young kids, I'd definitely be setting this in another room for video games and getting myself a new 76...but can't justify it just for myself;)


checkout these guys for a bulb if you,re looking
http://www.provantage.com/infocus-sp-lamp-021~7INFB05R.htm

are you saying your going to do the Bulb mod? It is my understanding that taking out the X1/4800 bulb and putting it in the SP4805 housing is a piece of cake. Thats what I plan to do when I need to or if I ever see a steal on X1/4800 lamps.

Well it is my dealer demo so technically I don't have a warrranty to screw up - but it is not an urgent issue - I have other projectors I can watch :D

The SP4800 lamp is for my brother (yes an old demo - you might say he gets the deal - tried to get him to upgrade - but he decided new lamp was cheaper).

Hey Krazmuzik....so what do u think about the Hi-Power with ceiling mounted 4805? Would it be terrible? ie...do you recommend me getting a new screen when mounting on the ceiling?

I think he'd say to TRY it 1st - before investing several hundred into a new screen.

The 4805 has enough light output to overcome a lot. Try it with and without the ND2 filter.

-W

Your HighPower would be half as brite with your ceiling mount and not what you are used to. Which is why I recommended the samples I did - they will be as brite with ceiling mount.

Realize you are as brite as a TV - which most people consider too brite for movies.

Realize you are as brite as a TV - which most people consider too brite for movies.

LOL. Taken out of context, that could be viewed as an insult. ;)

I know a few people I wouldn't consider as bright as a burnt, 5w blacklight bulb in deep space. :D

I just purchased a Infocus 4805 looking to use it for my PC and HT and need some help. I'm considering purchasing a new DVD player, Bravo D1 on new egg is 100 bucks. That a good deal?

Also I'd like to link everything through my reciever (Denon 3806). Would it be a bad idea to do that? Or should I run the DVD player directly to the Infocus? I'm not sure if passing through the reciever will alter the DVD players output?

Also looking to setup my PC for games etc. I've got an Audigy X-fi Music. How can I connect that to my reciever for surround sound? Its only got like 3 plugs for 3 different outputs and then 1 multijack (Digital I/O, Line In, something else). Anyone have any experience with this? IS there a tool I can buy that will give me a digital out or something if I plug the 3 component sound ones in?

Should I buy a HDMI to DVI for my reciever to the projector, because then I'd only have one wire running and everything else will be plugged in to my reciever. Is that a bad idea?

Can I hook up my PC to my reciever? Its got a CRT output and an output for dual LCD. Or am I required to use the DVI to DVI?

Lots going on and its driving me crazy but I'd really hate to piss away money on wiring I dont need or cant use.

Thanks.

Well, I figured out that the issue was that the gf had the gamma on PC, rather than film. Still, I'm going to go back to my JVC from the Bravo D1 since the gf likes it better because of the plethora of features it has and it's easier for her to use. If anyone wants my cap-modded D1 with a 25' DVI to M1 cable for a good price, send me a PM and we'll work something out. Just thought I'd offer it up for any AVS members before putting it on eBay or something.

Still, I'm going to go back to my JVC from the Bravo D1 since the gf likes it better because of the plethora of features it has and it's easier for her to use.


The power they hold. Amazing. :)

The power they hold. Amazing. :)

Well, she did pay for the Bravo unit and cable herself and 1/2 of the 4805 and all the other AV equipment we own, after all, so she's entitled to get what she wants. This really isn't a case of being whipped, just being fair. :cool:

The things of ours they outright own, amazing. :)

rrhomes, you're too much.

Anyone have any experience projecting these new kinds of 3D movies?


http://stores.*********/TheDVDAttic

The site says that the technolgy works best on a CRT type of tube.

We have watched some of the other 3D movies like Spy kids and Shrek 3D, and they are pretty good on the big screen.


I have a Bravo D2, so I can tweak the image.

Any help would be appreciated.

DenM3

I think this is an HDCP issue. If the cable box is HDCP compliant, and the hdbox thinks it is hooked up to a recorder, it will shut off the video signal.

I had this same issue with three DVD players till I switched to a Bravo D2.

Why not just use component for the HD cable? That is what I do and it looks awesome.

Good luck.

Denm3

What is the best way to run DVI and VGA at the same time on this projector. I want to be able to run my computer off of DVI and my dreamcast off of VGA.

What is the best way to run DVI and VGA at the same time on this projector. I want to be able to run my computer off of DVI and my dreamcast off of VGA.

I had that exact same question... I would imagine we would have to find an M1 swticher... I hope someone has good solution!

Anyone have any experience projecting these new kinds of 3D movies?


http://stores.*********/TheDVDAttic

The site says that the technolgy works best on a CRT type of tube.

We have watched some of the other 3D movies like Spy kids and Shrek 3D, and they are pretty good on the big screen.


I have a Bravo D2, so I can tweak the image.

Any help would be appreciated.

DenM3

I tought 3d stuff didn't work on fixed pixel displays because it relied on the interlacing to generate to fields...

Does anyone know of a M1 to DVI cable that is smaller (on the DVI end) then the average? The reason I'm asking is I got a cable from monoprice and it would not fit thru the conduit. It was close it would go in but the first turn it came to it got stuck and was a nightmare to get back out. I covered the end with some slick tape to help it slide thru but it still got hung up. I'm a little nervous of trying again I don't want to get it stuck so bad that I'm not able to use the conduit at all. Does anyone have any ideas I really want to use this connection.

I had that exact same question... I would imagine we would have to find an M1 swticher... I hope someone has good solution!
You could try the $30 HDMI switch from Monoprice with some adapters...

You could try the $30 HDMI switch from Monoprice with some adapters...

i hadn't thought of VGA to HDMI...

After about a year and a half of using my SP4805 everyday...my color wheel busted while watching HDTV tonight. UGH.
I use it for my regular TV so I'm pretty much stuck until I get it repaired or buy a new projector.
I've torn into it once to clean dust blobs so I've pretty much ruined my warranty.
Will Infocus still fix it? If they will....is my best option to send it in and have them fix the color wheel or should I break down and buy a new SP4805?
Any thoughts or opinions on this would be appreciated. Thanks!
Man.....it's only been 30 minutes...and I feel so.....alone without my Projector on.

Also...I know I'm not the only one that uses it to watch TV everyday. Is this something that happens often, or is this a fluke thing?

Um......How exactly did it "bust"?

Um......How exactly did it "bust"?

Good Question....I was watching CBSHD ...then all of a sudden we hear a pop and then it was a real loud sound coming from it. I could still see the picture...but the color was off. ( Cause a piece of the color wheel broke )
So I uninstalled it from the ceiling and unhooked everything.
I could hear the pieces of it rattling around in there when I was bringing it down.
So I waited a few minutes for the bulb to cool and pulled it out.
I looked inside and saw that a piece just busted off the color wheel.
The whole wheel didn't break...just a piece of it.
I'm really bummed...dunno what to do.

I just went and checked it and it's one of the Blue Segments that busted completely out of the color wheel. The rest is intact and looks fine. Man...
I can't believe this. UGH. I have to go back to a 27 inch Toshiba. Non HD!!!
LOL

I just went and checked it and it's one of the Blue Segments that busted completely out of the color wheel. The rest is intact and looks fine. Man...
I can't believe this. UGH. I have to go back to a 27 inch Toshiba. Non HD!!!
LOLSuperglue:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7471545&highlight=superglue#post7471545

Well if Infocus cannot tell that you voided warranty, maybe they'll replace it (assuming they didn't read this thread :)).

Hi there all,

I've only just signed up to the fourm, and thought I would post some info I found. I've been using the powerstrip settings from Ja Phule's page, but found that watching LiveTV via windows xp media center the TV would jerk/jump every couple of seconds. If I plugged in my normal LCD (monitor) it played fine, so after lots and lots of googling and hassling my local "projector" guru, I was able to find the following info. (which TOTALLY cleared up my issues).

The powerstrip settings that I was using wern't quite right. Hopefully this helps the rest of you guys out. (new powerstrip settings at the bottom)

VESA MONITOR TIMING STANDARD Screenplay 4805
Proposed: 3/4/03 (Japan Timing Workgroup)
Resolution: 848 x 480 at 60 Hz (non-interlaced)
EDID ID: 4Bh, C0h
Video Display Information Format (VDIF)
Pre-Adjusted Timing Data
*** NOT CVT COMPLIANT ***
Timing Name = 848 x 480 @ 60Hz;
Hor Pixels = 848; // Pixels
Ver Pixels = 480; // Lines
Hor Frequency = 31.020; // KHz = 32.2 usec / line
Ver Frequency = 60.000; // Hz = 16.7 msec / frame
Pixel Clock = 33.750; // MHz = 29.6 nsec ± 0.5%
Character Width = 8; // Pixels = 237.0 nsec
Scan Type =NONINTERLACED; // H Phase = 4.4 %
Hor Sync Polarity = POSITIVE; // HBlank = 22.1% of HTotal
Ver Sync Polarity = POSITIVE; // VBlank = 7.2% of VTotal
Hor Total Time = 32.237; // (usec) = 136 chars = 1088 Pixels
Hor Addr Time = 25.126; // (usec) = 106 chars = 848 Pixels
Hor Blank Start = 25.126; // (usec) = 106 chars = 848 Pixels
Hor Blank Time = 7.111; // (usec) = 30chars= 240Pixels
Hor Sync Start = 25.600; // (usec) = 108 chars = 864 Pixels
H Right Border = 0.000; // (usec) = 0 chars = 0 Pixels
H Front Porch = 0.474; // (usec) = 2 chars = 16 Pixels
Hor Sync Time = 3.319; // (usec) = 14 chars = 112 Pixels
H Back Porch = 3.319; // (usec) = 14 chars = 112 Pixels
H Left Border = 0.000; // (usec) = 0 chars = 0 Pixels
Ver Total Time = 16.667; // (msec) = 517 lines HT – (1.06xHA)
Ver Addr Time = 15.474; // (msec) = 480 lines = 5.6
Ver Blank Start = 15.474; // (msec) = 480 lines
Ver Blank Time = 1.193; // (msec) = 37 lines
Ver Sync Start = 15.667; // (msec) = 486 lines
V Bottom Border = 0.000; // (msec) = 0 lines
V Front Porch = 0.193; // (msec) = 6 lines
Ver Sync Time = 0.258; // (msec) = 8 lines
V Back Porch = 0.741; // (msec) = 23 lines
V Top Border = 0.000; // (msec) = 0 lines

When setting my nvidia 5700FX to the following everything is running smooth as..

PowerStrip timing parameters:
848x480=848,16,112,112,480,6,8,23,33750,768

Generic timing details for 848x480:
HFP=16 HSW=112 HBP=112 kHz=31 VFP=6 VSW=8 VBP=23 Hz=60

VESA detailed timing details:
PClk=33.75 H.Active=848 H.Blank=240 H.Offset=0 HSW=112 V.Active=480 V.Blank=37 V.Offset=6 VSW=8

Linux modeline parameters:
"848x480" 33.750 848 864 976 1088 480 486 494 517 +hsync +vsync

Cheers and I hope this helps
Adam

Adam,
You want to use the 48hz powerstrip setting when watching movies since films are 24fps. If you are going to watch TV, you should use it at 60hz since tv is 30fps.

Adam,
You want to use the 48hz powerstrip setting when watching movies since films are 24fps. If you are going to watch TV, you should use it at 60hz since tv is 30fps.

Ahhh there is always a catch ;). Hmm is there an easy (automated) way to have MCE switch powerstrip settings based on played back content.. be it DVD/xvid/divx etc

Noob question....when do I need to use powerstrip? I use DVI-D and do achieve 848 * 480 1:1 pixel matching using Nvidia 6600GT PCI-E.

Do I still need to use Powerstrip? I don't want to miss out on anything good :)

I just bought a 4805 - so I just want to first say hello to everyone on this forum. I am a new 4805 junkie now.

However, b/c I am a newbie I have really no clue on the settings. I have played with a few, but since many of you are experienced with the color settings to get that best picture, I was wondering if you could let me know what you guys set your projectors to.

Thanks in advance.

Jose

Can someone help me.. I have a 4805 with 500hours on it.

I have a Dish 921 that was connected with HDMI .. I unplug it to move something in my rack .. but now HDMI is not working anymore.

I have also a Dish 811 that i connect with M1-DVI and it's not working. I test the port with the M1-VGA cable.. bang .. working fine.

I try to downgrade, upgrade firmware.. and it's not working when i'm plugging something digital.

I try
M1-component.. it's working.
M1-HDMI not working
M1-DVI not working.
M1-VGA working fine.

I did factory reset.. nah .. notting.


Carl

Noob question....when do I need to use powerstrip? I use DVI-D and do achieve 848 * 480 1:1 pixel matching using Nvidia 6600GT PCI-E.

Do I still need to use Powerstrip? I don't want to miss out on anything good :)

Nvidia's display properties has many of the options of Powerstrip. I believe many people were using power strip until nvidia began providing the ability to do advance timings. I think Powerstrip is also needed for ATI cards but don't quote me on that.

I just bought a 4805 - so I just want to first say hello to everyone on this forum. I am a new 4805 junkie now.

However, b/c I am a newbie I have really no clue on the settings. I have played with a few, but since many of you are experienced with the color settings to get that best picture, I was wondering if you could let me know what you guys set your projectors to.

Thanks in advance.

Jose

You should calibrate the 4805 with a calibration dvd like AVIA, Digital Video Essentials, or THX Optimode. The 4805 comes well calibrated out of the box and adjusting your brightness/contrast/color levels with those discs will help give you a great calibrated picture. Please refer to the FAQ in my signature also.

Can someone help me.. I have a 4805 with 500hours on it.

I have a Dish 921 that was connected with HDMI .. I unplug it to move something in my rack .. but now HDMI is not working anymore.

I have also a Dish 811 that i connect with M1-DVI and it's not working. I test the port with the M1-VGA cable.. bang .. working fine.

I try to downgrade, upgrade firmware.. and it's not working when i'm plugging something digital.

I try
M1-component.. it's working.
M1-HDMI not working
M1-DVI not working.
M1-VGA working fine.

I did factory reset.. nah .. notting.


Carl

How is it not working? Is the 4805 searching for a signal? Is it getting a signal but showing a black screen? It could be an HDCP issue. Try turning on the 4805 first and then your stb box or vice verse.

How is it not working? Is the 4805 searching for a signal? Is it getting a signal but showing a black screen? It could be an HDCP issue. Try turning on the 4805 first and then your stb box or vice verse.


yeah . it's always searching for signal. when i plug the DVI cable.. it look like it found it.. but goes back to searching for signal.

I try to open proj first then box.. vice verse...

yeah . it's always searching for signal. when i plug the DVI cable.. it look like it found it.. but goes back to searching for signal.

I try to open proj first then box.. vice verse...

Maybe you tried this but it helped me when I had this same issue: Try turning off the projector and unplugging it from the wall as well. wait 5 to 10 min and hook it back up and see what happens. ( It worked for me!)

Thanks Ja Phule. I will do so

Thought I'd chime in:
Still finishing up the install, but so far so good.
Infocus SP4805 shooting onto Parkland board. Throw distance is ~12' and the image size is a little shy of 80" x 45". Seating distance is about 11'-6" and the projector is mounted (HIGH) overhead upside down on the top shelf of a built-in directly behind the couch.

I showed a couple of movies to freinds this weekend and I came away with my eyes burning, so I ordered a Hoya ND-2 filter and installed it today. Hopefully that will help cut down the dazzle and improve black level detail even more.

I have to say that everyone was just BLOWN AWAY with the image quality. It is just sick how good the DVDs look. I haven't even bothered trying to get a pixel-mapped DVD player yet, but I wonder how much better that will look.

So far, this projector has surpassed my best expectations.

EXCEPT: The fan, even on quiet mode, is still present. I know this is going to be a function of the fact that the projector is only about 4' above my head, BUT... Is there any way to quiet the projector down? Has anyone tried swapping in a quieter fan?

Help!

I am having some odd problem. The projector was off for a couple hours and I turned it on and it fired up. After about 90 seconds, it turns off and then the red light flashes 3 times. I checked the FAQ and it says that is the error for when you are trying to strike the bulb when it is still hot.

I pulled the bulb out and cleaned the filter but it is still doing it. The lamp is also not hot so I do not know why it would shut down. This happened once before but after 3 tries it stayed on. This time I can not get it to go on at all. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Dan

BlackHawk77,

If I had to guess, given your description of the problem, I would say that the connecting wires to the fan have come loose, which would force the PJ to think that the bulb was too hot. I had this happen on a completely different pj once, so maybe?

Thought I'd chime in:
Still finishing up the install, but so far so good.
Infocus SP4805 shooting onto Parkland board. Throw distance is ~12' and the image size is a little shy of 80" x 45". Seating distance is about 11'-6" and the projector is mounted (HIGH) overhead upside down on the top shelf of a built-in directly behind the couch.

I showed a couple of movies to freinds this weekend and I came away with my eyes burning, so I ordered a Hoya ND-2 filter and installed it today. Hopefully that will help cut down the dazzle and improve black level detail even more.

I have to say that everyone was just BLOWN AWAY with the image quality. It is just sick how good the DVDs look. I haven't even bothered trying to get a pixel-mapped DVD player yet, but I wonder how much better that will look.

So far, this projector has surpassed my best expectations.

EXCEPT: The fan, even on quiet mode, is still present. I know this is going to be a function of the fact that the projector is only about 4' above my head, BUT... Is there any way to quiet the projector down? Has anyone tried swapping in a quieter fan?

Check here
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7222255&&#post7222255

and here
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7285888&&#post7285888

Help!

I am having some odd problem. The projector was off for a couple hours and I turned it on and it fired up. After about 90 seconds, it turns off and then the red light flashes 3 times. I checked the FAQ and it says that is the error for when you are trying to strike the bulb when it is still hot.

I pulled the bulb out and cleaned the filter but it is still doing it. The lamp is also not hot so I do not know why it would shut down. This happened once before but after 3 tries it stayed on. This time I can not get it to go on at all. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Dan

Dan,
If you can't get it to show a picture anymore, I'd probably contact Infocus. I remember having red blinking when I first got the 4805 with less than 10 hours and Infocus sent me a new projector.

Thanks for the responses guys. It was displaying for like 90 seconds and then shutting off.

I figured it was probably a sensor issue so I blew air through the projector vent and it is now functioning properly! It scared me though, I am 30 days out of warranty on my refurb with about 1100 hours on the bulb. I assume that I will probably have to do some extra cleaning now that blew dust around inside the PJ.

In all I am super happy with this PJ, we use it for everyday TV and movies. My 55 inch projection tv in my family room has not had much use at all since I bought the 4805. To add to that, the combination of my 4805 and Da-lite screen was a couple hundred bucks cheaper then the 55.

Dan,
If you can't get it to show a picture anymore, I'd probably contact Infocus. I remember having red blinking when I first got the 4805 with less than 10 hours and Infocus sent me a new projector.

Ahhh there is always a catch ;). Hmm is there an easy (automated) way to have MCE switch powerstrip settings based on played back content.. be it DVD/xvid/divx etc

I'm using a 5700 also.
I let the Nvidia drivers handle 848x480@60hz and manually engage Powerstrip when watching film content. Not really a pain at all.

-W

Nvidia's display properties has many of the options of Powerstrip. I believe many people were using power strip until nvidia began providing the ability to do advance timings. I think Powerstrip is also needed for ATI cards but don't quote me on that.

You still need Powerstrip to 848x480@ 47.952 for film content if you're using a 5700 card. Even the new Nvidia drivers won't let you get into advanced timings over the DVI/M1 connection on the 5000 series cards it seems.

I tried all one afternoon and could not get that button to appear on the 4805 but if I switched to the little screen on VGA it re-appeared. So I put powerstrip back in gear. <sigh>

-W

You still need Powerstrip to 848x480@ 47.952 for film content if you're using a 5700 card. Even the new Nvidia drivers won't let you get into advanced timings over the DVI/M1 connection on the 5000 series cards it seems.

I tried all one afternoon and could not get that button to appear on the 4805 but if I switched to the little screen on VGA it re-appeared. So I put powerstrip back in gear. <sigh>

-W

Ah....and all this time I thought it was my crappy 5500 card that wouldn't let me access the advanced timings. I'll have to try powerstrip then for once. :)

Which DVD player are you guys using with your 4805? and via which type of connection cables? I know the preferred player should be 480i, so looking for your suggestions with the best results. Thanks.

After about a year and a half of using my SP4805 everyday...my color wheel busted while watching HDTV tonight. UGH.
I use it for my regular TV so I'm pretty much stuck until I get it repaired or buy a new projector.
I've torn into it once to clean dust blobs so I've pretty much ruined my warranty.
Will Infocus still fix it? If they will....is my best option to send it in and have them fix the color wheel or should I break down and buy a new SP4805?
Any thoughts or opinions on this would be appreciated. Thanks!
Man.....it's only been 30 minutes...and I feel so.....alone without my Projector on.

Also...I know I'm not the only one that uses it to watch TV everyday. Is this something that happens often, or is this a fluke thing?


Let me know if you still need help with that color wheel. It happened to me, I fixed it.

By the way, if you searched my posts you'll see the issues I had with this infocus; my next projector will be the Sanyo.

Joe

I'm using a 5700 also.
I let the Nvidia drivers handle 848x480@60hz and manually engage Powerstrip when watching film content. Not really a pain at all.

-W

Hmm manually switching.... Hmm does anyone know of a way to "program" one of the number buttons on an XP MCE remote.

Say button 1 switches 848x480@60Hz button 2 switches to 848x480@48Hz ;)

Damn annoying to switch res's when you don't have a keyboard/mouse connected to your HTPC....

That's why God made cordless mice? :D

-W

Which DVD player are you guys using with your 4805? and via which type of connection cables? I know the preferred player should be 480i, so looking for your suggestions with the best results. Thanks.

I started with an inexpensive Samsung VIA component hookup, quality was okay…
Switched to an OPPO VIA DVI, very, very nice…
Now I’m on an HTPC using an ATI card VIA DVI excellent picture

I started with an inexpensive Samsung VIA component hookup, quality was okay…
Switched to an OPPO VIA DVI, very, very nice…
Now I’m on an HTPC using an ATI card VIA DVI excellent picture

I was using an Xbox via component (aus spec xbox with custom hdtv av box to allow 480,720,1080 etc)... but then built up a htpc. Hmm I would post links but can't due to the whole 5 post restriction... (honestly, thats just annoying).

Hi,
This is my 1st post on this site. I have an Infocus 4805. I am using the projector for 2 months now & i have done 150 hours on the lamp. The projector is ceiling mounted. Im using an 8'x6' glass beaded screen. I was very impressed with the picture quality . But since the past 2 days im noticing a change in the black level of the projector. The dark scenes seem to wash away the detail in the picture & u can barely see what's happening in the scene. The screen just does not get even near to black in dark scenes & its kinda snowy glow in the dark areas of the entire screen. This happened when i had to install a split Air Conditioner in my room & the person had to drill a 3 inch hole in the wall, which spilled out a lot of dust in the room. But i had secured the projector by throwing a few pieces of cloth on it as the work was done. Ever since then im noticing this black level decrease. Please help me out as to what should be done.

I am thinking the only way to get a M1 to DVI cable to my 4805 is by spliceing it. Has anyone tried sodering one of these cables together? There is nine wires to soder I'm thinking its a long shot but I might try it anyway.

I am thinking the only way to get a M1 to DVI cable to my 4805 is by spliceing it. Has anyone tried sodering one of these cables together? There is nine wires to soder I'm thinking its a long shot but I might try it anyway.

Have you thought about using HDMI with an adapter instead since HDMI is smaller?

I am thinking the only way to get a M1 to DVI cable to my 4805 is by spliceing it. Has anyone tried sodering one of these cables together? There is nine wires to soder I'm thinking its a long shot but I might try it anyway.

Why wouldn't you just buy the correct adapter?

Yeah I thought about getting a new HDMI cable and a adapter but I already have a M1 to DMI cable. If this does not work I will go that route.

Why wouldn't you just buy the correct adapter?
This is part of a larger problem described above in post #4324.

Has anyone tried sodering one of these cables together?


If you do that you may experience a bad quality picture if the cable is not properly shielded throughout the length of the cable..

I was wondering if anyone has this Moto 6412 Phase III cable box. I know Cavu has it. Here is my problem.... I can't seem to get the 4805 to sync via the HDMI out on the Moto. Here's the path of the signal: cable box > HDMI to DVI adapter > DVI cable > DVI to M1 adapter > projector.

I've tried 2 DVI cables, both are good. I've tried 2 of these boxes, both are good and was able to connect to the IN72 via straight HDMI path.

Would a HDMI to M1 adapter work better than the DVI to M1? Besides the connector is there any difference the projector would see?

I don't want to use the component because my xbox is using this input. I have a Gefen 4X1 DVI switch that I use for everything (I took this out of the path and it made no difference). Has anyone got this Combo to work?

Hmmm would like to ask a question...

Whenever i start up 4805(lamp hours used is about 100Hrs), i can hear the air-whooshing sound, which is pretty normal, and i am not really irritated by this.

but after playback about 30 minutes, another sound ALSO comes out of it, like a constant looping-hum(or fluctuating-hum), which is pretty loud and disturbing.

then i go to SYSTEM, and uncheck the "low power", the LOUD fan noise for "high power mode" kicks in, and i immediately check the "low power again" . Then the looping-hum sound goes away, and only left the air-whooshing sound. however, the looping-hum sound comes again in about 30 minutes.

is this color wheel grind or something else? is it normal? :confused:

Hmmm would like to ask a question...

Whenever i start up 4805(lamp hours used is about 100Hrs), i can hear the air-whooshing sound, which is pretty normal, and i am not really irritated by this.

but after playback about 30 minutes, another sound ALSO comes out of it, like a constant looping-hum(or fluctuating-hum), which is pretty loud and disturbing.

then i go to SYSTEM, and uncheck the "low power", the LOUD fan noise for "high power mode" kicks in, and i immediately check the "low power again" . Then the looping-hum sound goes away, and only left the air-whooshing sound. however, the looping-hum sound comes again in about 30 minutes.

is this color wheel grind or something else? is it normal? :confused:

Is your 4805 getting enough cool air around it? The fan on the 4805 will run louder if it gets too hot.

I was wondering if anyone has this Moto 6412 Phase III cable box. I know Cavu has it. Here is my problem.... I can't seem to get the 4805 to sync via the HDMI out on the Moto. Here's the path of the signal: cable box > HDMI to DVI adapter > DVI cable > DVI to M1 adapter > projector.

I've tried 2 DVI cables, both are good. I've tried 2 of these boxes, both are good and was able to connect to the IN72 via straight HDMI path.

Would a HDMI to M1 adapter work better than the DVI to M1? Besides the connector is there any difference the projector would see?

I don't want to use the component because my xbox is using this input. I have a Gefen 4X1 DVI switch that I use for everything (I took this out of the path and it made no difference). Has anyone got this Combo to work?

What type of image are you getting? Splash screen searching for signal or "snow"/raster? How long is your DVI cable? The concern there is with a long cable run and two adaptors you may not be getting a signal to the projector.

Try this: HDMI Cable > HDMI to M1 adaptor > Projector, or, you can always use component > component to M1 adaptor > projector.

htr

Hi,
This is my 1st post on this site. I have an Infocus 4805. I am using the projector for 2 months now & i have done 150 hours on the lamp. The projector is ceiling mounted. Im using an 8'x6' glass beaded screen. I was very impressed with the picture quality . But since the past 2 days im noticing a change in the black level of the projector. The dark scenes seem to wash away the detail in the picture & u can barely see what's happening in the scene. The screen just does not get even near to black in dark scenes & its kinda snowy glow in the dark areas of the entire screen. This happened when i had to install a split Air Conditioner in my room & the person had to drill a 3 inch hole in the wall, which spilled out a lot of dust in the room. But i had secured the projector by throwing a few pieces of cloth on it as the work was done. Ever since then im noticing this black level decrease. Please help me out as to what should be done.

Welcome to the forum!

Part of your problem is the glass beaded screen used with a ceiling mounted projector. Glass beaded screens do not reflect light, they refract light. Light directed at a glass beaded screen is returned along the very same path it arrived on. Check out Da-Lite's Angles Of View article (http://www.da-lite.com/education/angles_of_view.php?action=details&issueid=50) for more detailed information on reflective properties. Try shooting directly onto the wall to see if the black levels are any better.

I'm unsure what to think about the air conditioner work done and how that can affect the black levels. I believe it's unrelated. Have you cleaned the lamp screens? Do you have control over ambient light? You can also try a factory reset.

htr

I don't have a projector yet, but a local av store is selling their display unit of the 4805. I am debating about making them an offer on it ( thier listed price is too high - I looked at completed sales on ebay for comparison)


I LOVE the idea of having a large screen without a big piece of furniture. I have been thinking about getting a projector for years, and about twice a year I read up on the latest projector models. This year had got me thinking maybe it was time to start serioulsy considering a projetion system. The Panny AE900U or Optoma hd72 have really caught my imagination. But the cheapskate in me says. "I don't have ANY HD materials yet - I don't have HDTV - I don't have HD-DVD - I don't have HD games. Out of all of these the thing I am most likely to get in the next few years is an XBOX 360. Do I even NEED an HD setup? Why not spend 1/3 or less on this 4805 display model?

But then I worry about the following things (Here's where you guys come in!)

1) I know the bulbs last 2,000 hours or so - but what is the lifespan of the 4805 itself? If I use it for 2-3 hours a day as my major video source will it last 5 years or more?

2) My Current TV is a sony KV27S26 - It's almost 9 years old. It's a great TV - I have loved it well. Will I notice a large decrease in image quality using the 4805 compared to my TV? I hear people talk about losing detail in the dark areas of the image and I wonder if I will notice it enough to annoy me.

3) I wrote in another thread that my cieling in the video room is very low - 82 inches. The room is muli-purpose, and a ceiling mount is a needed. How bad is the offset on this projector? Will I have heating problems if I flush mount it? How will things be at a projector distance of 13 feet and a viewing distance of 11-12 feet? If the image is only a foot or so down from the projector I will be happy with it - If its over two feet I will have to make the image a bit smaller than I would want..

4) Is there a way to determine how many hours are on the lamp? Even roughly? If this unit was only used for display it should have low hours (This store only runs the projectors when customers ask for a demonstration) but it would be nice to be certain.


Thanks for all you input on this. I would like to try out the "Big Picture" idea. I just want to do something that won't dissapoint me - or break my budget...

MB

Hey guys, my 4805 lamp blew the other day, I am pretty sure it was just fatigted but would be pissed to get a new lamp in there and find out the fan does not work.

Thing is, I pulled the lamp and fired it up and the fan does not spin, I can see the color wheel spinning though.
Does the fan turn on with no lamp installed?

What type of image are you getting? Splash screen searching for signal or "snow"/raster? How long is your DVI cable? The concern there is with a long cable run and two adaptors you may not be getting a signal to the projector.

Try this: HDMI Cable > HDMI to M1 adaptor > Projector, or, you can always use component > component to M1 adaptor > projector.

htr
I'm getting a blank screen.... I set it to white... and it says computer in the lower left corner. The cable length is 6ft or 8 ft depending on which I use.... I use the DVI to M1 for my Bravo D1 and VOOM OTA Tuner and Computer from the DVI switch... so changing to HDMI isn't really going to help. Besides, won't the projector "See" the same signal regardless of DVI or HDMI?

I guess the question is.... has anyone, regardless of what component you use, gotten a HDMI to DVI- M1 to work?

I was wondering if anyone has this Moto 6412 Phase III cable box. I know Cavu has it. Here is my problem.... I can't seem to get the 4805 to sync via the HDMI out on the Moto ... Has anyone got this Combo to work?The combo works just fine.

What version of firmware on the Moto do you have? Is the Moto set to DVI or HDMI mode?

It will not work in "HDMI mode"!

PS. It occurs to me that if you hookup the projector to the Moto and, while the projector is running, pull the power cord on the Moto for a minute then plug it back in. It should auto configure itself to the "DVI" connection that it "sees".

cavu,

What model of the DCT6412 do you have? Is it Phase II or Phase III? What firmware do you currently have? Also, are you back from your trip already? Thanks.

Hey guys, my 4805 lamp blew the other day, I am pretty sure it was just fatigted but would be pissed to get a new lamp in there and find out the fan does not work.

Thing is, I pulled the lamp and fired it up and the fan does not spin, I can see the color wheel spinning though.
Does the fan turn on with no lamp installed?

One would think that there is a safety feature built in so that the unit would not operate if the fan wasn't working. Even my old Epson S1 wouldn't work if the fan didn't spin up. I'm too lazy to read the whole instruction manual to find out, but I bet it won't fire up without the fan. Try the "troubleshooting" part of the manual and it should say with reference to the link blink codes.

What model of the DCT6412 do you have? Is it Phase II or Phase III? What firmware do you currently have? Also, are you back from your trip already? Thanks.DCT6412 Phase 3

Firmware 12.26

Yes, a month flies by pretty fast. I'm back home now. Feel like I walked the entire distance though ... the return connecting flights took 46hrs!!

New Zealand is an AMAZING place. And our backstage visits to Weta's studios, post-production facilities and various LOTR sites across the country were unbelieveable. VERY neat computer stuff going on there!

New Zealand is so appreciative of Weta's presence that they issued a King Kong stamp.

The combo works just fine.

What version of firmware on the Moto do you have? Is the Moto set to DVI or HDMI mode?

It will not work in "HDMI mode"!

PS. It occurs to me that if you hookup the projector to the Moto and, while the projector is running, pull the power cord on the Moto for a minute then plug it back in. It should auto configure itself to the "DVI" connection that it "sees".

I update my 4805 to the latest firmware.... and my Moto has 12.31 firmware. When hooked them together my 4805 was running.... I tried unplugging the moto multiple times. And I know what setting you're talking about for the HDMI or DVI setting because I saw it on the IN72.... however the only way (well not the only way) I was able to see the Moto on the 4805 was to hook through composite... and when I go to that menu it isn't there to select. So I might have to blindingly do it. But thank you for letting me know that it IS possible. I won't give up now :D

I was able to see the Moto on the 4805 was to hook through composite... and when I go to that menu it isn't there to select.Hookup BOTH the DVI and the composite connections at the same time and use the composite input to select the DVI mode.

Can someone help me.. I have a 4805 with 500hours on it.

I have a Dish 921 that was connected with HDMI .. I unplug it to move something in my rack .. but now HDMI is not working anymore.

I have also a Dish 811 that i connect with M1-DVI and it's not working. I test the port with the M1-VGA cable.. bang .. working fine.

I try to downgrade, upgrade firmware.. and it's not working when i'm plugging something digital.

I try
M1-component.. it's working.
M1-HDMI not working
M1-DVI not working.
M1-VGA working fine.

I did factory reset.. nah .. notting.


Carl


Carl, you're not alone. Hope you still have warranty. See my post...and good luck!
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7619054#post7619054

sgibson

Watched "The Incredibles" last night. PQ was amazinging. I highly recommend an ND-2 filter. Question:
1. I am using component inputs direct from my DVD player (480i). Several times through the movie (3-4), the "Auto Source" feature kicked in, dumping the existing signal and ooking for a new signal while switching through the (unused) inputs and then finally setting up 480i through component again. I have only watched 4-5 dvds so far and this is the first time this has happened. Any suggestions? My component cable is the one that came with the 4805 and is around 6-8 feet long.
Thanks for any suggestions...

Watched "The Incredibles" last night. PQ was amazinging. I highly recommend an ND-2 filter. Question:
1. I am using component inputs direct from my DVD player (480i). Several times through the movie (3-4), the "Auto Source" feature kicked in, dumping the existing signal and ooking for a new signal while switching through the (unused) inputs and then finally setting up 480i through component again. I have only watched 4-5 dvds so far and this is the first time this has happened. Any suggestions? My component cable is the one that came with the 4805 and is around 6-8 feet long.
Thanks for any suggestions...

Try adjusting the "sync threshhold" option under advanced picture settings. The auto-source is likely occurring during a sudden flash of white or black causing the 4805 to think it is losing a signal.

Watched "The Incredibles" last night. PQ was amazinging. I highly recommend an ND-2 filter. Question:
1. I am using component inputs direct from my DVD player (480i). Several times through the movie (3-4), the "Auto Source" feature kicked in, dumping the existing signal and ooking for a new signal while switching through the (unused) inputs and then finally setting up 480i through component again. I have only watched 4-5 dvds so far and this is the first time this has happened. Any suggestions? My component cable is the one that came with the 4805 and is around 6-8 feet long.
Thanks for any suggestions...

Were did you end up getting your ND-2 filter?

I got the ND2 filter from an ebay seller here:
http://cgi.*********/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7613325730
Quick shipping, nice packaging. No problems. Also about the lowest price I could find online.

Sync Threshold, huh? What should I adjust it to? That symptom sounds about right (big flash of white or black).

Thanks for the quick response.

Sorry all, the ND-2 filter was found on ebay. The seller is "baehrmall" if you want to search (the forum truncated my 'link).

that is a good deal on an ND2.

Hookup BOTH the DVI and the composite connections at the same time and use the composite input to select the DVI mode.

HAHA I like the lightbulb..... But that's what I'm saying.... I can't select the DVI mode because it isn't there when viewing over composite.

Sync Threshold, huh? What should I adjust it to?

Zero.

Hi

Has anyone come across a problem with the 4805 where after 20/30 minutes of normal viewing, a white vertical bar from the top of the screen to bottom is displayed ? The game & movie will continue to play happily behind this bar.

I've had the projector for about 6 months, used about 480 lamp hours and all has been rosy up until now.

The bar is about an inch thick and although primarily white, the additional colours try to flicker through, i.e. it is not a pure solid white bar.

The filter has recently been cleaned & I've uploaded the latest firmware. On saying that, the problem seems to be a physical fault and not a software issue.

Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated as the 'boys' are coming around tomorrow to play the Xbox 360 & watch movies !

Many thanks

I have about 470 hrs on my original bulb used with ND2 filter- when should I think about taking it off (for good)?

I just took my filter off with around 2000 hours. I know some users who have taken there's off as early as 600hrs and even some with it still on at 3000 hours.

Poostache, first, welcome to the forum. It's been a longtime, so I've forgotten exactly what caused that problem, but I had it too when I first got the 4805, so I returned it to InFocus and they replaced my projector. A month later I seem to recall it was a firmware issue that was resolved. I'd call InFocus and ask one of the tech guys what's up.

I know this has probably been answered before but searching this thread can be difficult.

I would like to soft power off my 4805 with the remote and leave the main power switch on all of the time. The problem I have with this is when the power in the house goes out and comes back on or flickers the projector go back to the on state. This is a major problem, I had the power flicker in my house once and I did not notice for a day that the projector was on and doing nothing but burning hours.

Is there a way to get the power to defult to off when the power flickers?

Cavu.... I've decided that it's not the moto or the 4805.... I hooked it up to the IN72 and changed it to DVI.... it still didn't work! So the only thing it has to be is the HDMI to DVI adapter.... which is of course made by Monster... over priced POS. I need to know what adapter you are using other wise I'm going to head on over to monoprice. Thanks

I know this has probably been answered before but searching this thread can be difficult.

I would like to soft power off my 4805 with the remote and leave the main power switch on all of the time. The problem I have with this is when the power in the house goes out and comes back on or flickers the projector go back to the on state. This is a major problem, I had the power flicker in my house once and I did not notice for a day that the projector was on and doing nothing but burning hours.

Is there a way to get the power to defult to off when the power flickers?

There is a power save mode on the 4805 that you can turn on. If the 4805 does not detect a video signal for 20 minutes it will automatically shut off. I must note though, that some devices (like my cable box) still sends a signal to the projector when shut off, so it may be better to feed your signals to something like a receiver that would not send out a video signal when off.

I know this has probably been answered before but searching this thread can be difficult.

I would like to soft power off my 4805 with the remote and leave the main power switch on all of the time. The problem I have with this is when the power in the house goes out and comes back on or flickers the projector go back to the on state. This is a major problem, I had the power flicker in my house once and I did not notice for a day that the projector was on and doing nothing but burning hours.

Is there a way to get the power to defult to off when the power flickers?
Put the PJ on a UPS.

I need to know what adapter you are using other wise I'm going to head on over to monoprice.This is the one! (http://www.thesourcecc.com/estore/Product.aspx?language=en-CA&catalog=Online&category=Cables-HDMI_DVI&product=1518870)

This is the one! (http://www.thesourcecc.com/estore/Product.aspx?language=en-CA&catalog=Online&category=Cables-HDMI_DVI&product=1518870)

wow, this is one expensive adapter when compared to the ones over at monoprice. I really do not know what the difference are internally, but I am using a monoprice one for about a fifth of the cost and it works without any problems and is VERY solid.

Sync Threshold, huh? What should I adjust it to? That symptom sounds about right (big flash of white or black).

Thanks for the quick response.

Try increasing it a few click. I had a similar problem and bumped mine up to 63. I am not sure if this has worked.

Newbie question on the ND-2 filter. What size and does it just snap on? Also do you use it for everything like watching TV, movies and video games or just movies. Do you need it if your projecting 12.5 ft away for a diagonal of 92" on 1.0 gain white? Or is the filter for those who have their projector is closer to the screen?

Thanks!

62mm ND2 filter. Yeah, the lens doesn't have any threads, but it does seem to just snap in nice and snug. I'm projecting 92" diag. onto Parkland (I think its about a 1.0 gain) from about 12' or so away. I've only had the PJ a couple of weeks and am still tweaking it out. I found that the first few DVDs I watched without the ND2 filter left my eyes feeling "fried" or "dazzled" afterwards. Reading through earlier posts in this thread is how I heard about the ND2 filter. I popped mine on, recalibrated with AVIA, and am VERY PLEASED with the results. Contrast and black levels are awesome! Brights are still bright! And my eyes don't wear out. Wifey is very pleased as well.

This is the one! (http://www.thesourcecc.com/estore/Product.aspx?language=en-CA&catalog=Online&category=Cables-HDMI_DVI&product=1518870)

OK it's confirmed.... I got the Moto to work HDMI>DVI>M1. The problem was not with the HDMI>DVI adapter from Monster (sorry for calling it a POS); the problem was with my M1 to DVI "Dongle" Style adapter (http://www.ramelectronics.net/html/DVI_m1_adapter.html#55629). I bought this adapter because in order to get the furthest throw I needed it to bend, but it looks like it would send back the HDCP to the Moto. I'm buying a M1 to DVI "cable" this time from monoprice. That Dongle was expensive....dangit! I figured this out when I tried to hook the moto up to the IN72 over HDMI>DVI>M1 and it didn't work. It just so happened that it also had the same dongle, so I tried the DVI>M1 adapter from monoprice and it worked. Hope this helps someone. Thanks Cavu for helping me out! :D

Newbie question regarding the Bravo D1 and scaling. The D1 can output an 852 x 480 signal to pixel map to the 4805's 854 x 480 resolution. If I understand correctly the advantage is that the image is only being scaled once, from the DVD's 720 x 480 native resolution, to 852 x 480. My question is if a regular old DVD player is outputting (the DVD's native) 720 x 480 image is it doing any scaling? If it isn't then isn't the 4805 doing the only scaling of the image, from 720x480 to 854x480? And if that is the case would the only advantage of the D1 doing the scaling be if the D1 has a better scaler? Thanks for the help!

Newbie question on the ND-2 filter. What size and does it just snap on? Also do you use it for everything like watching TV, movies and video games or just movies. Do you need it if your projecting 12.5 ft away for a diagonal of 92" on 1.0 gain white? Or is the filter for those who have their projector is closer to the screen?

Thanks!

Spark,

I'd definitely recommend the ND2. 62mm is the size you need. At your screen size (which by the way is the sweetspot for the 4805) you're at roughly 24+ foot lamberts!!! That's extremely bright. Hollywood screening room standard is 12-16 foot lamberts, so with an ND2 you'd be just right. It'll help with black levels and decrease screen door effect. And, at the half-life of the lamp simply remove the ND2 and it'll be like having a new lamp! A win-win situation.

Newbie question regarding the Bravo D1 and scaling. The D1 can output an 852 x 480 signal to pixel map to the 4805's 854 x 480 resolution. If I understand correctly the advantage is that the image is only being scaled once, from the DVD's 720 x 480 native resolution, to 852 x 480. My question is if a regular old DVD player is outputting (the DVD's native) 720 x 480 image is it doing any scaling? If it isn't then isn't the 4805 doing the only scaling of the image, from 720x480 to 854x480? And if that is the case would the only advantage of the D1 doing the scaling be if the D1 has a better scaler? Thanks for the help!

Using the D1 and 4805 through DVI involves no scaling by the 4805 or the D1 I believe, therefore 1:1 pixel map with the custom numbers.

Using the D1 and 4805 through DVI involves no scaling by the 4805 or the D1 I believe, therefore 1:1 pixel map with the custom numbers.

But DVD's all have 720x480 resolution (not counting PAL, and lower resolutions like 352x480), isn't that correct? So doesn't there have to be some scaling to get it from 720x480 to 852x480? I may be wrong, but I'm fairly certain that all virtually DVD's are encoded with 480i signals (720x480 interlaced).

But DVD's all have 720x480 resolution (not counting PAL, and lower resolutions like 352x480), isn't that correct? So doesn't there have to be some scaling to get it from 720x480 to 852x480? I may be wrong, but I'm fairly certain that all virtually DVD's are encoded with 480i signals (720x480 interlaced).

no vertical scaling - indeed horizontal scaling is required of the DVD format - and you only want to do it once - in the display or player - not both. Even though the DVD media may store it as 480i you get full 480p resolution on films that are properly weaved together.

Thanks For The Reply. U Mentioned Something About Cleaning The Lamp Screen. Can U Give Me Instructions On Doing That. Thanks Once Again.

...U Mentioned Something About Cleaning The Lamp Screen. Can U Give Me Instructions On Doing That. Thanks Once Again.

junaid,

Easy as pie. Take a small flat-head screw driver to remove the lamp housing door. There are two small tabs that hold the door snug/closed. When you get the door off, unplug the lamp connector, unscrew 2 screws, then slide the lamp out. Proceed to clean screens using a vaccum with brush attachment. Just be careful, & take your time.

Hmmm would like to ask a question...

Whenever i start up 4805(lamp hours used is about 100Hrs), i can hear the air-whooshing sound, which is pretty normal, and i am not really irritated by this.

but after playback about 30 minutes, another sound ALSO comes out of it, like a constant looping-hum(or fluctuating-hum), which is pretty loud and disturbing.

then i go to SYSTEM, and uncheck the "low power", the LOUD fan noise for "high power mode" kicks in, and i immediately check the "low power again" . Then the looping-hum sound goes away, and only left the air-whooshing sound. however, the looping-hum sound comes again in about 30 minutes.

is this color wheel grind or something else? is it normal?

The 'Loud Fan-Noise/Color wheel' Looping-Hum sound is getting louder and louder(much louder than normal air-whooshsing sound), so loud that it really irritate me and i never really enjoy the movie. It is very disturbing during silent scenes, and slight whooshing during bombastic scene. Its so loud that i can say that it sound almost like a washing machine

i dun understand it, my room is air-conditioned. When i just bought it and clocking till up to 50 lamp hours, the sound is just air-whooshing(which is what i recalled, i was spending most of the time calibrating my PJ using AVIA video calibration, so i am sure the sound is not that loud). i went to my fren's house twice and i never hear the same loud sound.

Currently i clocked around 110 lamp hours, I dun think the sound from my 4805 is normal, cos if it is, i believe it won't have such strong support as it has today. This occurs after first 20-30 mins of every usage. but today it occurs after 10 mins.


anyone experience this too? Help me... :(

The 'Loud Fan-Noise/Color wheel' Looping-Hum sound is getting louder and louder(much louder than normal air-whooshsing sound), so loud that it really irritate me and i never really enjoy the movie. It is very disturbing during silent scenes, and slight whooshing during bombastic scene. Its so loud that i can say that it sound almost like a washing machine

i dun understand it, my room is air-conditioned. When i just bought it and clocking till up to 50 lamp hours, the sound is just air-whooshing(which is what i recalled, i was spending most of the time calibrating my PJ using AVIA video calibration, so i am sure the sound is not that loud). i went to my fren's house twice and i never hear the same loud sound.

Currently i clocked around 110 lamp hours, I dun think the sound from my 4805 is normal, cos if it is, i believe it won't have such strong support as it has today. This occurs after first 20-30 mins of every usage. but today it occurs after 10 mins.


anyone experience this too? Help me... :(

I'd check your filter, if it's clogged up it may be restricting air flow.

Newegg.com has the Bravo D1 for $84.99

I don't know if anyone is interested, but I think I'm going to pick one up. I was reading about the "counterfeit D1" issue a few hundred (!!!) posts ago, but I suppose its not that big of a deal.

Cavu, once again, which cable do I need to get from monoprice to go from the D1 direct into the 4805? I only need about 6-8 feet. Just want to make sure I get the right thing.

Rant: Seems like maybe there should be an entire forum catagory dedicated to the 4805 so that there could be separate threads opened up for all of the various issues...

OK, I got the DVI to M1 cable that I need. It's here... (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10238&cs_id=1023801&p_id=2500&seq=1&format=2&style=)

Newegg.com has the Bravo D1 for $84.99

I don't know if anyone is interested, but I think I'm going to pick one up. I was reading about the "counterfeit D1" issue a few hundred (!!!) posts ago, but I suppose its not that big of a deal.


Awesome, I missed out on ordering one last week, so I am glad that they popped back up -- Now I need to order my HDMI Switch and some cables!

Awesome, I missed out on ordering one last week, so I am glad that they popped back up -- Now I need to order my HDMI Switch and some cables!

You won't be sorry it is a great combination!

Hi

Has anyone come across a problem with the 4805 where after 20/30 minutes of normal viewing, a white vertical bar from the top of the screen to bottom is displayed ? The game & movie will continue to play happily behind this bar.

I've had the projector for about 6 months, used about 480 lamp hours and all has been rosy up until now.

The bar is about an inch thick and although primarily white, the additional colours try to flicker through, i.e. it is not a pure solid white bar.

The filter has recently been cleaned & I've uploaded the latest firmware. On saying that, the problem seems to be a physical fault and not a software issue.

Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated as the 'boys' are coming around tomorrow to play the Xbox 360 & watch movies !

Many thanks

Reset to factory defaults... I just had to use this option to fix a similiar problem I was having with 1080I on xbox360.

Question for you guys using the monoprice HDMI Switch for DVI stuff -- Do you have:

component -- DVI cable -- adapter -- switch -- adapter -- DVI cable -- PJ
or
component -- DVI cable -- adapter -- switch -- HDMI cable --- PJ

Also, do you use an adapter on the PJ end or just use the DVI/HDMI to M1 adapter. I like the idea of buying only standard cables that I will be able to reuse if I switch projectors, but it is starting to look like WAY too many adapters are going into the loop.

4805 --- M1->DVI 15 ft cable -- DVI->HDMI adpater -- switch

Hi, I can buy a SP4805 at good price; It's very proclive this pj to dust blobs?; may be worth pay the extra for the sealed optics of the IN72?

Thanks.

New problem?


I have around 300 hours , and I think the very left side and maybe a little of the right side of the image is getting darker. With the white blank screen its noticable, mostly at the very left top. Any ideas? Don't know if it's always been like this and am just now noticing it. I swear my overall image is a little dim too, for what is supossed to be a pretty bright PJ.

hi,
will there be a loss in video quality going from hdmi output on hddvd player or receiver/prepro to the dvi input on the 4805? I am only concerned about the video quality not the sound
Thanks
Jossix

Yes. If you have a high def source, the 4805 must down-rez to its native resolution. Still, it'll probably look a little better than standard DVD's.

Thanks Martin,
If that is the case,I see no value in getting a hd-dvd player unless i replace the 4805 with a true hd capable projector.
Jossix

Mostly. But then you'd gain compatibility with the new format as well as standard def DVD. Also, when HDTV is displayed from a really good high def production, (like a Nature PBS show) you can see an improvement over standard DVD quality despite the 4805 remaining a relatively low rez display. Therefore it's likely that high def DVD will show similar improvements which although relatively minor are significant.

I'm originally an audio guy who came to enjoy home theater but I have to say IMHO that most people eye's are way more sensitive to subtlety. A little difference between cables seems not as significant as a clear visual difference. I've found video improvements immediately apparent but that audio improvements often take time to adjust to and recognize, but when you do, only then do they become significant.

I understand what you saying and i do think my 4805 performs well with high def
programming even though it is down res.
I recently had the opportunity to view phantom of the opera on a plasma tv with source output from a toshiba hd-dvd player. The video was absolutely amazing.I guess that spoilt me and had me wondering if the dvi 4805 could duplicate that.I guess not.

If you have not used the DVI on the 4805 with a hi-def or DVD 1:1 pixel map source you may just be surprised :-)

Hello all !!!

Been missing for a while - enjoying my HT setup with lovely 4805.
I am now on 1400hrs lamp life. Picture became A BIT dimmer, but nothing bothering.

I got 2q's towards pros:
1. in new 1.32 firmware we can set RGB gain/offset for interlaced component inpur - do i have to adjust to 58/28 ? or leave on 50/50 ? I watch satellite tv box in 576i.
2. anyone can point me towards shop, where i can order new lamp to Russia ??? local dealer asks 550$ (!!!) and don't have any in stock anyway =(

And what's this talk about using OTHER lamp in 4805 housing ? I already disasembled housing couple of times for cleaning - and yes, 15m of soldering and you have a new lamp ?
Any links/thought ?

CHEERS
Pavel, Moscow

Hello all !!!

Been missing for a while - enjoying my HT setup with lovely 4805.
I am now on 1400hrs lamp life. Picture became A BIT dimmer, but nothing bothering.

I got 2q's towards pros:
1. in new 1.32 firmware we can set RGB gain/offset for interlaced component inpur - do i have to adjust to 58/28 ? or leave on 50/50 ? I watch satellite tv box in 576i.
2. anyone can point me towards shop, where i can order new lamp to Russia ??? local dealer asks 550$ (!!!) and don't have any in stock anyway =(

And what's this talk about using OTHER lamp in 4805 housing ? I already disasembled housing couple of times for cleaning - and yes, 15m of soldering and you have a new lamp ?
Any links/thought ?

CHEERS
Pavel, Moscow

1. I wouldn't touch the RGB settings for any analog connection (component, vga, composite/svideo) unless you have professional calibration equipment. Every analog source sends out different levels and will vary from each device, so the RGB values are not global over analog. Digital connections like DVI and HDMI have set standard levels for pc and studio (aka video) and the RGB values can be used in this case to put the 4805 at studio levels for these devices.

thanx, that one clear.

I let my church use my 4805 during a service and they loved it. The used it with a Power Point like church program and also used it to show short film clips.

They are now very interested in purchasing a projector.


The 4805 looked great(it was just projecting on a wall), but a little brighter picture would have been great!! They have a budget of 1500. can anyone recommend anything else? It will be placed on a table and I am concerned about fan noise from a larger unit.

What about the new Infocus IN72? - Looks to be brighter!

I also saw that Dell has a 3000 lumen projector for 1100!!!! The 2400MP.


Thanks All!!!!

IN72 - same lamp and optical mechanism - not brighter

i personnaly recommend Sharp Z201 dlp - i saw that, amazing picture.

ps.i hope it's not a scientology church =) and small clips wasn't about E-meter usage =))))

Reset to factory defaults... I just had to use this option to fix a similiar problem I was having with 1080I on xbox360.

Many thanks for the reply, but that was one of the first things I did. No change.

Incidentally, after an hours worth of gaming it disappeared & we all rejoiced.......but then it came back again :(

btw i have x360+hd cable, i tryed using 1080i - got transparent horisontal scrolling noise bars on picture =((( tryed change of cable - no change....
720p is mostly fine BUT on dim scenes i can see these lines too =(

I let my church use my 4805 during a service and they loved it. The used it with a Power Point like church program and also used it to show short film clips.

They are now very interested in purchasing a projector.


The 4805 looked great(it was just projecting on a wall), but a little brighter picture would have been great!! They have a budget of 1500. can anyone recommend anything else? It will be placed on a table and I am concerned about fan noise from a larger unit.

What about the new Infocus IN72? - Looks to be brighter!

I also saw that Dell has a 3000 lumen projector for 1100!!!! The 2400MP.


Thanks All!!!!

Maybe try the Optoma DV10, the all in one projector with built in dvd player and speaker. It's more portable and it has a 7 segment color wheel (including a clear segment) to help increase the brightness (but I'm sure it does affect the color accuracy a bit).

btw i have x360+hd cable, i tryed using 1080i - got transparent horisontal scrolling noise bars on picture =((( tryed change of cable - no change....
720p is mostly fine BUT on dim scenes i can see these lines too =(

I get this too over 1080i with my original xbox. Increasing the "Sync Threshhold" under advanced picture settings fixed it.

Wow will try that one out soon JaPhule, thanx in advance

I got a brand new 4805 and I'm pretty satisfied with the picture except for the rainbows. It is many steps up in contrast quality from the Epson S1+ LCD I have, but the color on the Epson is subjectively nicer. The contrast on the 4805 may be too dark at times, but I guess it has to be calibrated. I also bought a brand new oppo DVD player and connected it thru DVI. Everything is 30 day returnable. The screendoor is less on the 4805, but it is definately visible.

I know rainbows are beaten to death on this board, and I had an X1 once that was unwatchable and had to go back right away.
I watched Armageddon and was averaging one or two rainbows a minute. Mostly on scences with black and small areas of white. It was very distracting, but not as bad as the X1. I tried not darting my eyes and staring head on. Seems it happens when I blink. I watched in a dark blue home theatre room and a white room with the same results. The projector is like the cow spilling its milk, ruining the good contrast with rainbows. Also, black and white scenes are almost unwatchable.

I will try to use it for a few more days and see if I get used to it or it goes away. Does anyone here live with the rainbows? Is there anything I can do to reduce them?

I'm also going to try an IN72, I know they are very similar but Infocus said the tweaks on that unit may minimize rainbows. If these PJs don't work out I'll have to Get an LCD, either the Epson Home 20 or the Pana 900.

LCDGUY,
Rainbows can also be more visible due to the increase in lamp brightness. An ND2 filter will help reduce the brightness and in effect, reduce the rainbows. I'd suggest putting on a 62mm ND2 filter.

LCDGUY,
Rainbows can also be more visible due to the increase in lamp brightness. An ND2 filter will help reduce the brightness and in effect, reduce the rainbows. I'd suggest putting on a 62mm ND2 filter.

I'm worried its going to make the dark scenes too dark. Is that an issue?

Also, My new 4805 has a light (low contrast) band at the top of a dark screen. It is about an inch or 2 or so on a 95" diag screen. Is that a problem? It is visible mostly on dark scenes, but not very noticeable.

The 4805 is quite bright. With the ND2 filter, it will bring the brightness down to smpte standard levels. Most of the 4805 users who frequent this thread are using the ND2, I just took mine off after 2000 hours.

Not too sure about the band issue.

I let my church use my 4805 during a service and they loved it. The used it with a Power Point like church program and also used it to show short film clips.

They are now very interested in purchasing a projector.


The 4805 looked great(it was just projecting on a wall), but a little brighter picture would have been great!! They have a budget of 1500. can anyone recommend anything else? It will be placed on a table and I am concerned about fan noise from a larger unit.

What about the new Infocus IN72? - Looks to be brighter!

I also saw that Dell has a 3000 lumen projector for 1100!!!! The 2400MP.
Thanks All!!!!

If they liked the 4805 a lot, they might love it's cousin the X3 for about $999 - assuming they are doing a mix of presentaions and video stuff.

-W

Quote: Hmmm encounter some strange noise from my 4805.

I know how fan noise and color wheel noise sound like, and this noise is definitely not one of them. I am using in Low Power mode.

Description: Its sounds like it right comes off the power plug (not the 3-pin socket, i mean the other end where you slot onto your 4805) . The constant noise sounds like "flying housefly", like a constant "Zzzzzzzz.........." or "Electric Hum". This happens occasionally and is very loud and annoying when it comes; and when other times without the "Zzzzzz" sound, its just normal with abit of noise from the fan/color wheel.


Anyone encounter this before? is it a problem with the power plug? there a way to solve it?

I was using a UPS previously. As its not recommended to use a UPS, I just got a longer power plug which runs 7m directly to wall socket (10A/250V at both ends of power plug, same to the provided plug for use in Singapore).

Unfortunately the "electrical noise" still comes back. i was stunned when i heard it again!

I think it might be a fault with the 4805. this problem kept bothering me since 1 and half months since i bought it, but i still do wanna give 4805 a chance for its impressive visual quality.

Pls help me. :(

Unfortunately the "electrical noise" still comes back. i was stunned when i heard it again! ... Pls help me. Turn the VOLUME down to "0" on the SP4805.

Turn the VOLUME down to "0" on the SP4805.

Awww, how's a guy supposed to hear his THX 7.1 movies then? The 4805 speaker rocks! ;)

I was using a UPS previously. As its not recommended to use a UPS,

Where did you read that and do you know what the rationale is? I have my whole setup on a line conditioning UPS and it seems to work great.

Everyone probably knows this, but for those who don't, the OPPO DVD player w/HDMI is an excellent addition to this projector. I tested many DVD players with different PJs. The picture is clean, precise and film like. I prefer the native 480p setting. Non digital DVD hookups seem to introduce jitter and noise into the picture. I also got to try a Bravo D1 and the OPPO wins. The pixelmap feature on the D1 is nice but the OPPO does an amazing job on deinterlacing DVDs.

I'm not saying to always use HDMI though. My Sci Atlanta cable box works better thru component.

I also got to try a Bravo D1 and the OPPO wins. The pixelmap feature on the D1 is nice but the OPPO does an amazing job on deinterlacing DVDs.


I arrived to a different conclusion. Nothing come close to a 1:1 pixel mapped image. The D1 does an amazing job at this and the PQ is suprior to the Oppo which I owned for more than a year before I sold it after I got the D1.

Where did you read that and do you know what the rationale is? I have my whole setup on a line conditioning UPS and it seems to work great.

I never read a no UPS rule iether??? Sounds silly at face value.
-W

I also got to try a Bravo D1 and the OPPO wins. The pixelmap feature on the D1 is nice but the OPPO does an amazing job on deinterlacing DVDs.
.

I would think there may be something not configured right with your D1 hook-up. Did you get the right numbers and the lastest firmware to enter them in?

My 4805 made weird noises with a UPS, but only when the UPS is running on the battery. The noise is there while the 4805 is off.

Where did you read that and do you know what the rationale is? I have my whole setup on a line conditioning UPS and it seems to work great.

Last time when i ask about my problem, the reply was that it is better to plug direct into the wall. so i assume its not recommended to use UPS. I think i might get the definition of UPS wrong. i think it means Universal Power Socket. am i correct?

how does a line conditioning UPS look like?

Previously, I one i am using is a 3-pin Multi-Socket outlet (with 4 sockets). I only use one of the socket to supply the power to my projector. it has weird electrical noise.

Then i tried getting a custom-made 7m power plug, but still have electrical noise.

Really out of ideas for this. :(

I think i might get the definition of UPS wrong.UPS=Uninterruptible Power Supply (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uninterruptible_power_supply)

Wait a minute.. the OPPO I have comes with an DVI out, not HDMI. Did OPPO release their HDMI model already? Is it the one with SACD?

Wait a minute.. the OPPO I have comes with an DVI out, not HDMI. Did OPPO release their HDMI model already? Is it the one with SACD?
Sorry, It is DVI out.

I'm going to retest the D1 tomorrow and check the firmware. I didn't spend too much time playing with the D1. The Oppo looked very good though.
I would think there may be something not configured right with your D1 hook-up. Did you get the right numbers and the lastest firmware to enter them in?

Am now using 4805 with dvdo vp30 and very happy with the combo :D

Using 720p output :D

Brand new to this forum--I have had my 4805 about 14 months, and loved it the whole time. But yesterday, I turned it on to watch Apocalypse Now Redux, and the right edge of the screen is dark. On closer inspection, the image is there, but it is darker and a different color, and it fades to the normal picture, but with an orangeish fringe as it does. The line between the two areas is perfectly straight, and the area is slightly narrower at the top.

Didn't know what to make of this, so I followed several great posts here to take the unit apart, clean it and so forth. The color wheel was filthy, and the condensing lens too. So now the picture is fantastic! But still with the dark right edge!

After looking at how the unit works, and the nature of the problem, I came to the conclusion that the color wheel and and DLP chip must be slightly out of sync--but maybe I am wrong--anyone have thoughts?

I also carefully cleaned the optical sensor for the color wheel, to no avail.

Does anyone know how the DLP and color wheel are synced? Is there an adjustment of the sync?
Help!! I wanna watch Duvall smell the napalm with a clean pic!

After looking at how the unit works, and the nature of the problem, I came to the conclusion that the color wheel and and DLP chip must be slightly out of sync--but maybe I am wrong--anyone have thoughts?Sounds like light tube meltdown.

I quote what was posted by TXJoe:

"There is a 'light tube' that is so poorly built that it collapses on its own accord and causes the edges of your picture to become distorted, yellowed and shaded. The 'tube' is 4 slivers of plastic mirror glued together to form a square oblong channel for light to pass through. This terribly manufactured part is right behind the color wheel. It’s a pain to get to and even if you do get to it there’s no guarantee you can correct it. In my case I removed the collapsed pieces and tried gluing them back together (which was tough with my big fingers) and reassembled everything only to find I still had the shadow but now it was slightly worse."

I just had it fixed under warranty. I sent it out after work on a Monday and had it back in my hands Wednesday of the following week.

My 4805 made weird noises with a UPS, but only when the UPS is running on the battery. The noise is there while the 4805 is off.

Might have gone over it last time you posted about it, but did you ever check to see if it was really something in the 4805 making the noise on battery? My UPS makes a horrid noise when it goes to battery for any reason regardless of what is plugged into it.

Might have gone over it last time you posted about it, but did you ever check to see if it was really something in the 4805 making the noise on battery? My UPS makes a horrid noise when it goes to battery for any reason regardless of what is plugged into it.

Definitely coming from the 4805, once I unplugged the power cable from the 4805, the noise disappeared.

Definitely coming from the 4805, once I unplugged the power cable from the 4805, the noise disappeared.

A UPS on the battery will make horrid noises by itself as the switching transitors do thier thing - normal.

If the 4805 itself is making noise, that tells me that your UPS is putting out a square wave AC, as opposed to a rounder sinewave AC. Get a better UPS that has the correct waveform and the PJ *can't* tell the difference.

-W

Don't worry, I've eliminated the UPS long time ago. Personally, I feel the 4805 doesn't even need one, it's protection circuitry is good enough to prevent a bulb from being struck while hot anyway.

I knew that.... I just didn't want people to think UPS+4805=BAD automatically.

-W

Definitely coming from the 4805, once I unplugged the power cable from the 4805, the noise disappeared.

ya exactly this is what happen, it disappeared when i pull out the plug. i will send it for servicing, i dunno if the technician knows what i am talking about, because this problem happens anytime, and also if during servicing the technician can't hear it, then its the end for me. :(

ya exactly this is what happen, it disappeared when i pull out the plug. i will send it for servicing, i dunno if the technician knows what i am talking about, because this problem happens anytime, and also if during servicing the technician can't hear it, then its the end for me. :(

I would try moving the projector to another room, as a test, and see if the problem is still there using a different outlet.

Don't worry, I've eliminated the UPS long time ago. Personally, I feel the 4805 doesn't even need one, it's protection circuitry is good enough to prevent a bulb from being struck while hot anyway.

While I like that, I am not hot on the idea of having it go off mid movie due to a brownout and then being stuck for 20-30 min before I can continue. Granted that's not often.

While I like that, I am not hot on the idea of having it go off mid movie due to a brownout and then being stuck for 20-30 min before I can continue. Granted that's not often.

Try the PS Audio Power Plant products. They can maintain 120 volts output
even when the input voltage drops to 90 volts.

Another brand to try is Exact Power. They have a model that can deliver
2000 watts of regulated 120 volt power (also under low voltage conditions),
enough for your whole video system.

Hey what projector mounts would you all recommend for our beloved 4805?
Preferably an affordable one please :)

Preferably an affordable one pleaseCheck out this one. I've used this one over a dozen times and it is great value!

You can get it direct from the guy or on eBay. Check eBay item # 9725318699 for an example.

My 4805 usually runs great, however in the 15 or so months I've had it on a few occasions when turning it on (ie plugging it in), just after it powers up as what sounds like the fan spools up it has a medium to high pitch whining sound, rather loud, loud enough that its quite annoying. Only way to get it to go away seems to be turning it off and on a few times.

Any idea what causes this?

Sounds like light tube meltdown.

I quote what was posted by TXJoe:

"There is a 'light tube' that is so poorly built that it collapses on its own accord and causes the edges of your picture to become distorted, yellowed and shaded. The 'tube' is 4 slivers of plastic mirror glued together to form a square oblong channel for light to pass through. This terribly manufactured part is right behind the color wheel. It’s a pain to get to and even if you do get to it there’s no guarantee you can correct it. In my case I removed the collapsed pieces and tried gluing them back together (which was tough with my big fingers) and reassembled everything only to find I still had the shadow but now it was slightly worse."

I just had it fixed under warranty. I sent it out after work on a Monday and had it back in my hands Wednesday of the following week.


I must have a little of it too. I asked a similar question a couplle pages ago. Does it get worse with time? I'm out of warranty. 90 refurb.

Does it get worse with time?Unfortunately, yes. That's what I had read on the forum, and my experience confirmed it. I didn't send it in right away, but waited for an upcoming vacation so that I wouldn't be without the projector as long. It got bigger over time.

Look at post # 2245 in this thread. TXJoe tried to repair it, without success, then removed it altogether. Afterwards, the picture was fine, tho' noticeably dimmer (because the tube apparently amplifies the light). You might want to complain to InFocus anyway. If yours was a refurb, and they apparently knew about this problem, they should have refurbed that.

Good luck.

My 4805 usually runs great, however in the 15 or so months I've had it on a few occasions when turning it on (ie plugging it in), just after it powers up as what sounds like the fan spools up it has a medium to high pitch whining sound, rather loud, loud enough that its quite annoying. Only way to get it to go away seems to be turning it off and on a few times.

Any idea what causes this?


I had the same problem a few weeks ago. I thought my filter was clean, because when I cleaned it the 1st time, there was hardly any dust, and only 150 hours had passed since my last filter cleaning. When I took my projector down, I saw that the filter was covered in dust. Once I cleaned it, the PJ ran much quiter again.

I just received a refurbed 4805 I exchanged with Infocus for my non-refurbed 4805 (instead of waiting many weeks for a light engine to come back into stock).

Although the refurb has a slightly louder color wheel whine than my orginal unit, it is much brighter (mine had over 1,000 hours on the lamp). The lamp hour counter reads "0" and I am wondering if that is accurate, or if they simply reset the lamp hours when they refurbed the unit.

They told me they guaranteed fewer than 300 hours but I'm wondering if I may have gotten a new lamp in mine. Does anyone have a refurb that already had hours showing on the lamp counter when they received it or do they all read "0"?

Thanks,

Dan

Hey guys I just setup my4805 to my HTPC, what resolution/refresh rate should I be doing so im viewing things at optimal quality?

I just received a refurbed 4805 I exchanged with Infocus for my non-refurbed 4805 (instead of waiting many weeks for a light engine to come back into stock).

Although the refurb has a slightly louder color wheel whine than my orginal unit, it is much brighter (mine had over 1,000 hours on the lamp). The lamp hour counter reads "0" and I am wondering if that is accurate, or if they simply reset the lamp hours when they refurbed the unit.

They told me they guaranteed fewer than 300 hours but I'm wondering if I may have gotten a new lamp in mine. Does anyone have a refurb that already had hours showing on the lamp counter when they received it or do they all read "0"?

Thanks,

Dan

I think I recall a disclaimer on woot when the 4805 was going refurbed that bulbs had less than 10% life used... so that's probably under 400 hours....

I've got a brownish yellow stripe that recently appeared on the right margin of the picture. I've only seen one or two folks who have had this.....

Should I expect this to get bad really quick? I;m out of warranty and planning on sending it in this summer...... what does this cost?

Sounds like the light tube issue.

-W

My 4805 is starting to make a horrible sound when I start it up. I've had it about a year, around 500 lamp hrs. used.

When I switch the projector on, it sounds like an electric circular saw cutting two by fours. You know, the sound an electric circular saw makes when eating into wood, the high pitched sound, the sound that wakes you up on a saturday morning when your next door neighbor decides to do a little woodworking.

The good news is that it usually disappears after 10 seconds or so, but the last time, it was closer to a minute before it disappeared.

I'm a little leery of turning it on again, so I'd thought to check in here, has anybody had this 'start up' problem sound noise before?

I've got a brownish yellow stripe that recently appeared on the right margin of the picture. I've only seen one or two folks who have had this.....

Should I expect this to get bad really quick? I;m out of warranty and planning on sending it in this summer...... what does this cost?

I had this same exact problem last week. I took the bulb out of the projector and cleaned the dust from the screens around the bulb and the accumulated dust on the housing. I did not touch the bulb or the little piece of square glass located in front of the bulb. I did have to take the bulb housing apart (3 screws). When I put it back together and remounted the projector in my room, voila!, no more yellowish stripe at the right side of the screen. HTH.

Chuck

I'm a little leery of turning it on again, so I'd thought to check in here, has anybody had this 'start up' problem sound noise before?
Many. It's the sound of dust and grit in the bearings of the color wheel. Cleaning the filter screen more often will help. Some have sent their unit back, but I just clean it more often.

My 4805 is starting to make a horrible sound when I start it up. I've had it about a year, around 500 lamp hrs. used.

When I switch the projector on, it sounds like an electric circular saw cutting two by fours. You know, the sound an electric circular saw makes when eating into wood, the high pitched sound, the sound that wakes you up on a saturday morning when your next door neighbor decides to do a little woodworking.

The good news is that it usually disappears after 10 seconds or so, but the last time, it was closer to a minute before it disappeared.

I'm a little leery of turning it on again, so I'd thought to check in here, has anybody had this 'start up' problem sound noise before?

I get this too along with quite a few (if not all) 4805 users. You will need to get it sent to Infocus if you want it fixed. That noise seems to be grinding of the color wheel.

Unfortunately my DVI-M1 cable hasn't arrived yet so I'm using a component to M1 cable from my Oppo dvd player to my 4805. The resolution from the Oppo seems to be too large (vertically) for the 4805 projector. I can only see the top half of the picture. I've tried changing output resolutions on the Oppo but no luck; plus I don't think these settings affect the component outputs. S-Video looks just fine though.

Any suggestions?

Unfortunately my DVI-M1 cable hasn't arrived yet so I'm using a component to M1 cable from my Oppo dvd player to my 4805. The resolution from the Oppo seems to be too large (vertically) for the 4805 projector. I can only see the top half of the picture. I've tried changing output resolutions on the Oppo but no luck; plus I don't think these settings affect the component outputs. S-Video looks just fine though.

Any suggestions?

The Oppo will only do 480i over component. The 4805 will not display 480i component correctly using the component to m1 adapter. If you want to use the Oppo's component output, connect it to the 4805 via the 4805's dedicated component input (which will accept 480i component fine). The Oppo will output 480p, 720p, and 1080i via it's dvi output only.

Thanks for the response Ja Phule! I figured it was something out of my control causing the image to be like that. Unfortunately the M1 cable I have is one of those mega cables I got off of eBay that converts the component to M1 so I don't have a long enough component cable by itself. Guess I'll have to wait for the DVI-M1 cable to arrive next week.

My 4805 is starting to make a horrible sound when I start it up. I've had it about a year, around 500 lamp hrs. used.

When I switch the projector on, it sounds like an electric circular saw cutting two by fours. You know, the sound an electric circular saw makes when eating into wood, the high pitched sound, the sound that wakes you up on a saturday morning when your next door neighbor decides to do a little woodworking.

The good news is that it usually disappears after 10 seconds or so, but the last time, it was closer to a minute before it disappeared.

I'm a little leery of turning it on again, so I'd thought to check in here, has anybody had this 'start up' problem sound noise before?



I too had that happen just once. My PJ had about 650 hours on it at the time. In my case, it turned out to be one of the little screw retainer washers that had broken in two and was apparently lodged against the bottom of the color wheel.

I took out the lamp assy, shook the unit around a bit top get the pieces out and the sound stopped and never returned. That was several weeks ago. It runs 4-6 hours a night and not a sound from it since.

Now perhaps it was a coincidence since other have reported that same sound (It really does sound like a radial saw cutting wood)

I have an InFocus brand 4 year extended warranty so worst case I will have to send it back for repair if it starts it again. An InFocus tech told me about $400-450 for a new color wheel assembly installed, if you have to pay yourself.

I just got my 4805 through ebay used (35 hours on the bulb) and was wondering where I should get an extended warranty. The seller offered one through some company named SquareTrade for 2 years.

Now should I go with the SquareTrade warranty, extended warranty through Infocus, or not even get a extended warranty?

I just got my 4805 through ebay used (35 hours on the bulb) and was wondering where I should get an extended warranty. The seller offered one through some company named SquareTrade for 2 years.

Now should I go with the SquareTrade warranty, extended warranty through Infocus, or not even get a extended warranty?
I would contact Infocus to see if you are eligible for a warranty. You may not be on a used pj. Also, the counter hours on the bulb can be reset, so there may be more than 35 hours on the bulb. Good luck!

Get that SquareTrade warantee! It's prbably either $8.99 or $14.99 or something like that, if I had to guess. I doubt that IF is going to let you have one through them on a used PJ.

Quote: Hmmm encounter some strange noise from my 4805.

I know how fan noise and color wheel noise sound like, and this noise is definitely not one of them. I am using in Low Power mode.

Description: Its sounds like it right comes off the power plug (not the 3-pin socket, i mean the other end where you slot onto your 4805) . The constant noise sounds like "flying housefly", like a constant "Zzzzzzzz.........." or "Electric Hum". This happens occasionally and is very loud and annoying when it comes; and when other times without the "Zzzzzz" sound, its just normal with abit of noise from the fan/color wheel.


Anyone encounter this before? is it a problem with the power plug? there a way to solve it?

Just send it my 4805 to local service center (the only one and its a 3rd party) , I did try to explain my problem to the technician, but he don't seem to understand what i am talking about.

In the end, i get to t-loan a Infocus X1 from the service center. Unfortunately, the electric sound comes out "on and off"of the X1 too! Oh my God! . :eek: This is really freaking me out! I was wondering why both 4805 and X1 have the electric buzz sound, while most 4805 owners dun experience much problem with it. now i am out of ideas for it.:confused:

They're both infocus, they both use the same design and case (as you can see), and yes, they both have the similar buzz saw problem. They've changed the design for their new Big Play models. I don't think I want any other service center to service my projector other than Infocus themself.

Interesting news on my apparent Light Tube problem. As I mentioned, I have the brownish yellow stripe showing up on the right hand side of my picture. Everyone on here has said that I should send it into InFocus for repair.

However, I'm not under warranty. So they offered me two options - 1) send it in for repair and pay for the repairs or 2) trade it in for a new one in their new "trade in" program.

If I choose #1 - the quote for the repair was $1097. LOL
If I choose #2 - they'll give me $22 credit to a new one by turning in my old one.

Sounds like some great options.

I'm apparently screwed at this point. My only thought is that I could sell it on Ebay as-is (FULLY DISCLOSING THE PROBLEM) and maybe somebody who tinkers with these can fix it themselves. Maybe I'd get at least $300 for it. Then I could buy a new one off of Ebay for $650 or so.

Anybody else have any suggestions?

Well im very new to this so please dont be mean!! lol.

I have a 4805 with sch550 panisonic dvd player running component to the PJ.
Now my problem is i want to run tv from my sky box into the PJ. I have tried connecting the skybox to the DVD player and so has my friend with his but you just dont get any signal.
Is there a way around this?
Chris

Well im very new to this so please dont be mean!! lol.

I have a 4805 with sch550 panisonic dvd player running component to the PJ.
Now my problem is i want to run tv from my sky box into the PJ. I have tried connecting the skybox to the DVD player and so has my friend with his but you just dont get any signal.
Is there a way around this?
Chris
323gt-x: I use a component video switcher from Radio Shack. Works great, and costs about $50. Search for 4-In 2-Out IR Learning A/V Switchbox on their website.

Anybody else have any suggestions?I just got mine back from InFocus and have been trying to find out exactly what they did to fix my "light tube" problem. After having no luck trying to navigate their website, I called last week. The customer rep read from the repair ticket that they "adjusted" it and upgraded the software (not firmware, which I had done a few months ago). There was nothing on the repair ticket about "light tube" at all and nothing was replaced. Color me confused. :confused:

Try the cleaning procedure discussed in post #4474. Maybe it IS an easy fix.

I wonder if Bob Williams can shed some light on this.

I just got mine back from InFocus and have been trying to find out exactly what they did to fix my "light tube" problem. After having no luck trying to navigate their website, I called last week. The customer rep read from the repair ticket that they "adjusted" it and upgraded the software (not firmware, which I had done a few months ago). There was nothing on the repair ticket about "light tube" at all and nothing was replaced. Color me confused. :confused:

Try the cleaning procedure discussed in post #4474. Maybe it IS an easy fix.

I wonder if Bob Williams can shed some light on this.


Just did the cleaning again and no luck. Same problem. I would love if Bob Williams had a solution! (Or anyone)

Even if I had to take the projector apart to fix it - I'd be willing to try it if there was something I could do.

ok so ive connected the sky box to the dvd player using scart. then running the dvd player to the PJ using component. The dvd player plays the sound but doesnt send the picture.......any ideas?

I have tried connecting the skybox to the DVD player and so has my friend with his but you just dont get any signal.Why are you connecting your skybox to the DVD instead of to the projector directly??

323,
I would guess that either your DVD player is set to composite output, that you haven't set the source buttons on the 4805, or haven't got it on the right source even if they are set. Try hitting the "2" button on the 4805 remote. I think that's the component source button for default setting. If that doens't work, try connecting to another source using the composite outs for the DVD and see if there is a menu for the out settings on that.

And I'd ask the same question that cavu asked as well. :confused:

Maybe I'd get at least $300 for it. Then I could buy a new one off of Ebay for $650 or so.How many hours do you have on your current lamp??

If it has reasonably low hours, and you think you'll only get $300-ish on eBay, I'd just keep your old projector as a "spare bulb" and a general parts bin!

InFocus apparently doesn't have any SP4805 CPU boards in stock (we have been waiting three months for one!!) so keep your old unit as "insurance". The bulb alone ($339 MSRP) will justify the cost.

How many hours do you have on your current lamp??

If it has reasonably low hours, and you think you'll only get $300-ish on eBay, I'd just keep your old projector as a "spare bulb" and a general parts bin!

InFocus apparently doesn't have any SP4805 CPU boards in stock (we have been waiting three months for one!!) so keep your old unit as "insurance". The bulb alone ($339 MSRP) will justify the cost.

Good point. It's actually tolerable to watch now - but it may get worse. I know there has to be a way for me to fix it judging by others posts about the same issue. Hopefully someone on here has done this and can rescue me!

Interesting news on my apparent Light Tube problem. As I mentioned, I have the brownish yellow stripe showing up on the right hand side of my picture. Everyone on here has said that I should send it into InFocus for repair.

However, I'm not under warranty. So they offered me two options - 1) send it in for repair and pay for the repairs or 2) trade it in for a new one in their new "trade in" program.

If I choose #1 - the quote for the repair was $1097. LOL
If I choose #2 - they'll give me $22 credit to a new one by turning in my old one.
buy a new one off of Ebay for $650 or so.

Anybody else have any suggestions?

#1 -thats f'n ridiculous
#2- so ridiculous, someone should get smacked for even saying that

I may never buy infocus again.
sorry if I'm pissed, but I have the light tube also at 250 hrs.

I was going to call also. I'll see if they say the same thing. Even though mine is a staples refurb. It was new when I got it. No RE serial number, and it was tracked as a distributer lot return, as were a lot of the "refurb"4805's

I bought mine on Ebay.....so maybe I get what I deserve - but I haven't had any problems until this. Had it for a year.

Keep me posted on what you find out - and maybe someone else on here has found a solution. I can live with it like it is - but don't know if the light tube problem gets progressively worse or not.

If I choose #1 - the quote for the repair was $1097. LOL
If I choose #2 - they'll give me $22 credit to a new one by turning in my old one.


Wow. Those are some great deals. Now if InFocus could just start buying up car dealerships and offer that same line of deals on vehicles.

Broken windsheild on your 2003 Toyota Camry?

InFocus Auto will give you two options:
1. Repair it for $18,773.
2. Give their valued customer a $128 credit towards a new $16,000 car.

If my water heater goes out in my $240,000 home, do you think that they would give me $1200 to buy a new house from them? What a load of BS. At least put a zero after that $22, for hell's sake. :mad:

http://infocus.tradeups.com/GetQuote.aspx#quoteform

Actually - let me correct my previous post. I would get $23 - but shipping costs $15 so I'd net $8 out of the deal. My mistake.

http://infocus.tradeups.com/GetQuote.aspx#quoteformI tried that link and entered my "Black Friday" SP4805. Based on "excellent condition", it responded with:"The Product you have selected does not have aftermarket value. Would you like to Recycle the Product ?"They then offered to charge me $34.72 to "recycle" the product.

Based on the quality of some of their refurbs, I assume that means they will just ship my "recycled" projector to some other sucker.