WOW. :eek: Well, I've certainly got a deal for all of you then. Just send me your IF4805 units. I won't charge you a thing for taking them. :rolleyes:

Seriously, we should all band together and get some sort of petition going on this BS. Personally, this has made me question my loyalties to the If name, if this is how we're going to be treated. I've seen scams and questionable business practices, but this is one of the most assinine things ever. :mad:

I've seen scams and questionable business practices, but this is one of the most assinine things everDid you try the link?? Enter your product details. You too can be insulted!

I think those prices are rediculous for repairs, but don't forget you were probably getting a repair quote based on them replacing the light tube, which may come as an assembly. Someone else with the problem already has said that theirs was just out of adjustment, so you may be able to send it in and for 50 bucks or something have them turn a screw that adjusts where the bulb is pointing to miss the problem area.

I think those prices are rediculous for repairs, but don't forget you were probably getting a repair quote based on them replacing the light tube, which may come as an assembly. Someone else with the problem already has said that theirs was just out of adjustment, so you may be able to send it in and for 50 bucks or something have them turn a screw that adjusts where the bulb is pointing to miss the problem area.


Problem is you have to sign a form with the $1000 repair quote on it BEFORE you send it in. THat's why I'm hoping someone on here will save the day and give me a suggestion on how to fix it myself.

Anybody else have any suggestions?
I'd call back and ask how much would it cost for you to send it in and have them diagnose the problem and then make a decision based on the results of them actually looking at the pj.

Otherwise, since a brand new unit can be had for much less than your quoted repairs, you're better of just buying a new one and keep the old one for the spare parts like the bulb.

Anybody whose pj breaks down outside of the warranty period has my sympathy, but if you think any other maufacturer out there does not also charge an obscene amount to fix your out of warranty pj, think again. This is why some people feel extended warranties make economical sense.

I know this doesn't help in your situation but it goes to show why many chose to spend a few hundred more and buy a new pj that came with a 2 year warranty instead of taking a chance with a refurb or off of Ebay.

I'd agree to a certain point, but there is no way in hell that the light tube + the 0.5-2 hours of repair time should come up to $1000+ regardless of how long you've had your unit. I can see a $49 DVD player costing more than the original amount to repair since technicians charge $25-$100/hr for their time, but an $800 PJ? Even if the IF tech gets that $100/hr rate, that still means they're saying that the light tube costs $800. So that means the entire remaining parts of the PJ should only cost $400, right? Take out the $330 bulb from that scenario, now we've got a cost of only $70 for everything else. Please, IF, get real.

The fact that they want to charge the customer to take their PJ for an upgrade isn't only insulting, it's beyond belief. If this ever happens to me, there's going to be hell to pay, not insanely overpriced repairs or upgrades.

I don't think it's just infocus. Other manufacturers would charge similar for out of warranty repair.

I'd agree to a certain point, but there is no way in hell that the light tube + the 0.5-2 hours of repair time should come up to $1000+ regardless of how long you've had your unit.

You are assuming that the light tube isn't one of the major factors in the cost of the unit to begin with and that it isn't the basis of the entire PJ. I have had cameras that had simple little problems with the mirror that the mfg and camera stores have told me to pitch because the first thing they do to put the camera together is to install the mirror into the slot and the whole camera gets built around that. So, in order to fix it, you disassemble the entire camera, then put it back together.

Don't get me wrong, like I said, I think it is a little crazy, but I have been in the electronics manufacturing business, and I know how it works. Sometimes consumer electronics items are just not repairable for what seems to be a minor problem, even if they cost nearly $1000 to begin with.

I still think there must be a way to attempt to fix this.

I don't think it's just infocus. Other manufacturers would charge similar for out of warranty repair.
Anytime a manufacturer cuts out the independant service company (I am one) from your repair options, repair prices go astronomical. InFocus has servicers but not for these (PJ) models.

In this case, the light tube may be supplied by T.I. as part of the light engine, hence the cost. It is also possible that T.I. has forbidden any component level service on the light engine. Dolby forbade service on decoders, Fujitsu forbade service on plasma panels, CableCard tuners are full assembly only service, SRS audio forbade service, etc. Whenever an American company holds the patents and copyrights, component level service is very difficult.

I would suggest that you find a local, reputable, service company that still has real technicians and see if they would be interested in attempting a repair. I would point them to this forum and specifically the disassembly info in the dust blob threads. They could use the pictorials to decide if they would feel comfortable working on the unit.

If I remember some other posters, removing the light tube completely diminishes brightness but does not distort the image, so worst case scenario is a dimmer, but usable picture.

Did you try the link?? Enter your product details. You too can be insulted!

I tried a 4805 for a few days, I'm not that thrilled, but It does give a nice image. It needs a pretty dark room get a decent picture. I see rainbows too, even with the ND-2 filter as japhule suggested. The only thing that stopped the rainbows for me was a 60" or smaller screen. I would probably live with it if I didn't have a decent PJ right now.

The ND-2 filter makes it too dark. Its not THAT much of an upgrade over a calibrated Epson S1+ (the image is a bit cleaner on the 4805 and less sde),I A-B them with a 480p signal and from a distance only dark scences with lots of stars look really better on the 4805. My next PJ is going to be a 720 -HD one.

Noise is a bit excessive too. Aside from that it has some other small issues.

Tradeup?The site says $28 - $16.49 = $11.51 for the brand new one that I'm sending back with the 30day return policy because it has a weird "ghost" pattern when it shows all dark scences and the whites look "brownish" after calibration. I would rather use it for a doorstop than give it away for $11.51. The uniformity is poor when compared to the epson I was running side by side.

The date on the infocus box shipping label is from september of 2005. I wonder if my "new one" was really new.

What are they thinking? They turn around and sell refurbs for $730MSRP with a 90 day warranty and a potential $1000 repair. I bet all refurbs have zero hours after they reset the lamp. If you buy an extended warranty you are pushing the price close to what a new one would cost.

You are assuming that the light tube isn't one of the major factors in the cost of the unit to begin with and that it isn't the basis of the entire PJ. I have had cameras that had simple little problems with the mirror that the mfg and camera stores have told me to pitch because the first thing they do to put the camera together is to install the mirror into the slot and the whole camera gets built around that. So, in order to fix it, you disassemble the entire camera, then put it back together.I wonder if what we think is a light tube problem might sometimes be a problem with the mirror, which is in a bulb assembly that we remove, clean, and reinstall on a regular basis, increasing the odds that we might unwittingly be knocking something out of alignment just enough to create a visible problem.

Try tweaking how the bulb assembly is seated by removing and reinserting it in as many ways as you can imagine. Better than signing on to pay more than the price of a new one to repair an old one.

Hey Bob Williams, are we getting warmer?

I wonder if what we think is a light tube problem might sometimes be a problem with the mirror, which is in a bulb assembly that we remove, clean, and reinstall on a regular basis, increasing the odds that we might unwittingly be knocking something out of alignment just enough to create a visible problem.

Try tweaking how the bulb assembly is seated by removing and reinserting it in as many ways as you can imagine. Better than signing on to pay more than the price of a new one to repair an old one.

Hey Bob Williams, are we getting warmer?


I thought about this. Seems like it's getting worse the more I try to help fix it! BOB?

The brown line on the right of the screen is a problem with the "light tunnel". It is a .25" square tunnel formed by four pieces of mirror that is glued together with some kindergarten elmers glue. It is positioned between the color wheel and a lens before the light bounces off a mirror and then to the DMD.

I recently had to fix this on my X1. I completely disassembled the pj all the way down to the DMD and even took it off the PCB. Upon reassembly I knocked the mirror slightly out of whack and now I have light spill where I shouldn't. I did however fix the the light tunnel problem by taping the four pieces back together with some silver duct tape (no not the macgyver kind).

I too called infocus and they told me that they don't stock or can't even sell me just a new light tunnel. They said that they would have to replace the whole light engine.

So if you don't want to get rapped by IF, just take the pj apart and get creative in fixing the light tunnel. It is a huge pain in the ass, but it might save you from trashing your PJ.

I'll try to dig up some pics of the light tunnel that I took during disassembly.

Just an idea on light tunnel repair.
I've read that it is difficult to glue the pieces of glass back together since they are so small. If you were to make a jig to hold the pieces together it would make glueing easier. I was thinking you could sand smooth a small piece of wood to a square that would fit perfectly inside the light tube and then use a rubber band to hold the pieces of mirror to the wood and then glue together. After the glue dries carefully tap out the piece of wood. Perhaps even coat the wood with a lubricant first so as not to scratch the mirror surface and then clean the mirror with a Q-tip and cleaner afterwards. I know the piece of wood would be small and difficlut to get square....but it might be worth a try. Also if you use super glue there is a solvent but I would try it on a scrap piece of glass to make sure it didn't affect the mirror surface.

Many. It's the sound of dust and grit in the bearings of the color wheel. Cleaning the filter screen more often will help. Some have sent their unit back, but I just clean it more often.

Yes, you may be correct on this cleaning. Thats why I clean my unit every 200 hrs.

Thanks - this looks great. I look forward to seeing pictures of this before I begin the surgery. :)

Although if the problem is what everyone says it is - why would it get worse over time?

The brown line on the right of the screen is a problem with the "light tunnel". It is a .25" square tunnel formed by four pieces of mirror that is glued together with some kindergarten elmers glue. It is positioned between the color wheel and a lens before the light bounces off a mirror and then to the DMD.

I recently had to fix this on my X1. I completely disassembled the pj all the way down to the DMD and even took it off the PCB. Upon reassembly I knocked the mirror slightly out of whack and now I have light spill where I shouldn't. I did however fix the the light tunnel problem by taping the four pieces back together with some silver duct tape (no not the macgyver kind).

I too called infocus and they told me that they don't stock or can't even sell me just a new light tunnel. They said that they would have to replace the whole light engine.

So if you don't want to get rapped by IF, just take the pj apart and get creative in fixing the light tunnel. It is a huge pain in the ass, but it might save you from trashing your PJ.

I'll try to dig up some pics of the light tunnel that I took during disassembly.

Also - as it stands now, it's watchable. Its only about two inches wide (on a 109" picture). I think I'd try this "surgery" if it was going to (or did) get progressively worse.

I'd love to see the pictures though.

I am looking at getting the 10 meter (30’) Infocus DVI cable for my 4805 but am concerned about signal loss over the cable. This is since the DVI standard says 5 meters should be the maximum cable length.

Can any 10 meter DVI cable owners comment on this. Have you compared with shorter lengths and noticed any difference?

Thanks,

-Blu-Man

10 meter (30’) Infocus DVI cableWorks great.

My 25' DVI to M1 (monoprice.com) works fine.

Can one of you guys give me some advice. I bought a supposaly new display unit (4805) on ebay and the unit is just dead. No green or even red LED light or anything. Its like its not even plugged in. Anyway, I called infocus and they said anything not sold by them or an authorized dealer makes the warranty null and void. I have a phone # of the store that sold it to me but haven't got thru yet, is just an answering machine. I feel totaly sick about it. I spent two years saving up for this thing and had a party when it arived. Man, I looked stupid when it didnt work. Any advice.

rackoon,
I hope you paid with PayPal. If you did, file with them. You'll get your $ back, minus $25 or so. If not, um......

Last week I finally was made "whole" by Circuit City in the purchase of my projector in December. They gave me 10% of the price of the projector in a gift certificate (I know I would have preferred cash but did not bother...just happy to get the 10%) in response to my letter to the President after being refused by lower echelons.

[For those of you who don't know (and probably couldn't care less!), I bought my projector and on the same day I received a 10% coupon via email (I get these 10% offers routinely from them). However, because I did not see the email and use the coupon at the time I purchased the PJ online they insisted I could not retroactively apply it to the purchase.]

Anyways, I wrote that I would post this "good news" about them if I received satisfaction and so I am. So, thank-you Circuit City.

The reason that the problem gets worse over time is that the square light tunnel is actually rotated 45 degrees and ends up being orientated liike a diamond relative to horizontal. When the glue fails, one of the mirrors slowly slips into the middle of the tunnel causing the light to not hit that part of the dmd.

I'll try to get some pics soon. We just moved and the pc that the pics are stored on is MIA.

Thanks spyder I did pay with pay pal so ill give that a shot. Total bummer though. After years of reading this site and building me home theater I thought that Id be posting questoins on how to optimize the great image on my wall. OH well, hopefully soon.

Sorry to hear that rackoon, I got mine right here at AVS, no worries.

Rackoon,

Give 'em hell!!! ;)

I tried a 4805 for a few days, I'm not that thrilled, but It does give a nice image. It needs a pretty dark room get a decent picture.
Noise is a bit excessive too. Aside from that it has some other small issues.


I watch my 4805 in a room with no curtains during day light hours and the image is still great. 110" screen and no noticeable noise. Not to say that you are not seeing noise but im just saying that i dont.

Damn Deerhunter that is a wicked awsome set up. I totaly dig it. How far back are you sitting from the screen?

I was planning on sitting 15ft back with a 7.5ft wide screen. I built a real nice aluminum frame that swings up into my ceiling when not in use and it is about 7.5. The kids will have to sit a little closer due to lack of space. I haven't put material on the frame yet because I wanted to get the projector all set first in case it didn't match up.

What kind of screen are you using. I was planning on HC matt white.

I watch my 4805 in a room with no curtains during day light hours and the image is still great. 110" screen and no noticeable noise. Not to say that you are not seeing noise but im just saying that i dont.

I think he means fan noise...

I think he means fan noise...

DOH. Ok my bad. Although i dont hear that either. Only because my cieling is so damn high in that room. I only hear the fan when im not watching something. In that case i usually have it unplugged.

I have had my 4805 for about 9 months or so and am on my second bulb. Recently, I have noticed a yellowish or tan color bar on the far right side of the screen that I have never seen before. It appears on both DVD and Sat, and also if I plug the sources direct into the projector instead of through the receiver. I am running the M1 input, and I dont have long enough cables to try the component in. I routinely pull the bulb and clean the dust and even shoot canned air to clean it out. Can anybody shed some light on what it is I may be seeing? I would say that is about 3-5 percent of the screen at this point and Im not sure if its getting worse, but I cant stand it. It has to go, please help if you can. Thanks everyone!

~Jay

I have had my 4805 for about 9 months or so and am on my second bulb. Recently, I have noticed a yellowish or tan color bar on the far right side of the screen that I have never seen before.

~Jay
It may be the light tube meltdown mentioned a few posts back. If you are under warranty contact Infocus.

figures, I got tired of reading all the posts, so I jumped to the end. Sorry!

I currently have a Time Warner HD cable box and Toshiba progressive scan DVD player hooked up to a Radio Shack component video switcher, then to my 4805 ... all connections made via component video. Images look good, but I know they could be better. I'm looking for some advice. DVD player ... Oppo or Bravo D1? Also, would it be worth investing in a video processor like the DVDO I-Scan? Thanks in advance.

What kind of screen are you using?
I watch my 4805 in a room with no curtains during day light hours and the image is still great. 110" screen and no noticeable noise. Not to say that you are not seeing noise but im just saying that i dont.

DVD player ... Oppo or Bravo D1?Yes. Bravo. Also, would it be worth investing in a video processor like the DVDO I-Scan?No.

Man I hate this long-assed 4805 thread with everything all mashed together. I feel like I am "butting in" by changing the subject, but here it goes.

Have a 4805 and it seems to me like the fan(s) have gotten louder. I purchased it in November so, of course, the springtime ambient air is warmer now in the room. Tonight it's probably 77-80 degree down here.

So the question is, does the 4805 have a variable fan or does it kick in another aux. fan in higher ambient temperature situations.

BTW, it is *not* nearly as loud as the high-power mode fan sound, but seems to be significantly louder than I am historically used to with this unit.

So the question is, does the 4805 have a variable fan or does it kick in another aux. fan in higher ambient temperature situations.

Yeah. The 4805 will run it's fans harder (and louder) if it gets too hot.

I bought a 4800 two years ago and sent it in after 10 months; under warranty, for a new color wheel. Infocus kept it for two weeks. Eight months later I sent it in for the same thing. (The color wheel was grinding against something) After three weeks of not hearing anything from Infocus, I called and discovered that there was a shortage on color wheels (Right) and it would take another week to get it in and repaired. I upgraded to a 4805 in hopes of getting a better product, not to mention to get the damn thing home. I was really happy with it. I recently ran Component cables and was in heaven. A few days ago the color wheel started grinding again; but, stopped after a few moments. Today, I turned my 4805 on and smoke literally poured out. Turns out the common line (white) to the lamp burned up, melting the lamp male connector to the female connector.
I’ve got plenty of air circulating around the projector as it’s mounted on the ceiling, not to mention the unit was cool. Does anyone else have the same luck as I do? I’m considering upgrading to an IN72; however, I’m tired of throwing money at Infocus.

The 4800 and 4805 are similar in design. With the IN72 model, it's a completely new design with an improved color wheel, which hopefully does not suffer from the grinding. My 4805 gets the grind but it goes away quickly in most cases.

Have a 4805 and it seems to me like the fan(s) have gotten louder.

I posted this same question a few months back but didn't get opinions. I don't think the fan is louder because the ambient temp is 2-3 degrees higher in the room.

Is this normal wear and tear or is this increase in noise a warranty item?

Ron

I've had my 4805 about 8 months, everything worked perfect until last night. I turned the projector on and it start making a loud whining noise. Sounded like maybe the fan? Any ideas what it might be?

I saw the recent post about the grinding color wheel, could this be it? A grind sounds different than a whine :)

OK everyone. It's officially time to turn on the AC units and see if this helps. Last year, we installed a window AC into the bedroom where the 4805 is and it purrs like a kitten. :)

I thought I’d share my experiences with Infocus this morning. I called and described my problem to the c/s rep, who then told me that I was out of warranty and that I was looking at $600 for repairs and a new lamp. I asked about upgrading to an IN72 and was told that all they could do was give me a SP5000. The cost to upgrade was $350 plus the repair for the SP4805. What a bunch of bull. I’m done with Infocus products. Does anyone have a suggestion as to what to do with a $1200 paper weight? Is there any chance of salvaging it?

Oh yeah, the grinding is more accurately described as a very high pitched whining sound.

Man. this is bull!!! I do own the SP4805 with very low hours, 368 to be exact. The discussion going on for the last few days have made me think about Infocus products come upgrade time. Maybe we should start a thread to warn other what they might encounter with Infocus service if they projector needs service.

*RANT ON*
If my product is out of warranty and it goes bad, I wouldn't expect the manufacturer to do anything. They've set their warranty and gave you an option to extend it and that's the risk you have for almost any electronics out there. I'm surprised Infocus would even offer anything for an out of warranty unit. Other manufacturers would quote outrageous repair options also for similar service, I really can't believe some of the complaints we've been seeing lately. I don't feel it is out of the ordinary for any company.
*RANT OFF*

*RANT ON*
If my product is out of warranty and it goes bad, I wouldn't expect the manufacturer to do anything. They've set their warranty and gave you an option to extend it and that's the risk you have for almost any electronics out there. I'm surprised Infocus would even offer anything for an out of warranty unit. Other manufacturers would quote outrageous repair options also for similar service, I really can't believe some of the complaints we've been seeing lately. I don't feel it is out of the ordinary for any company.
*RANT OFF*

Fair enough, but it's also a bit unfair to have a significant amount of similar failures, which points to a design flaw, and not offer and kind of recourse. Especially when these flaws are not at all common in competitors similar items.

If I buy Brand A TV with a 90 day warranty and on day 100 the remote sensor fails I guess I am stuck. But if a lot of people have the same issue with Brand A TVs and it's not a common issue amongst TVs I would think it decent of the company to give some level of recourse.

And the trade in program... that's just insulting. At best it is pointing to the rapid devaluation of your own product, which doesn't seem good; and at worst it's a slap in the face to your consumer base. I think it's right to be angry about that. Offer no trade in program, fine, no problem, it's your perogative. But come on, what would you think if someone offered to sell you a book called "How not to be a moron anymore"? Wouldn't you slap that guy for basically infering you are a moron now? Only a moron would take a deal like their trade up program (brand new great condition projector is worth less than $50?) and you don't offer a program if you don't think there is a market for it. So basically they think their market is idiots, and the market is IF product owners. Hmmmm.... *slap*

I admit that out of the large number of 4805 owners the recent rash really does represent a pretty small sample, but it also seems that the problem may be getting diagnosed more accurately and we probably aren't hearing quite as vocally from those who did get it fixed under warranty (the fact that a major part would fail from what does appear to be a design flaw in the warranty period is worrying also, I mean don't they design warranty periods around the expected life span of major components?).

A random spatering of expensive failures out of warranty is just life. A design flaw or poor part should be remedied or recalled.

I bought the five year extended warranty with the original projector; however, when I upgraded to the 4805 they would not transfer the warranty to the new projector. I expected to pay for the repairs. When I purchased the upgrade I was not charged for the repair of the old projector as it was under warranty. I expected to pay around $500 for another upgrade, like before, and be on my way.
My complaint towards Infocus is directed towards the product’s overall quality versus the company’s customer and technical support. Had I known that the warranty would not transfer from one projector to the next, I would have never upgraded. As the damage is done, and I have lost a significant amount of money and hair, I think potential buyers should be informed of all aspects of the company including the negative ones. No ranting, just expressing my discontent towards the product.

I am ready to clean my color wheel for the first time. From looking at this old thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=581503), I want to make sure I do it right.

Is it the copper part that we clean or the colored glass?

A random spatering of expensive failures out of warranty is just life. A design flaw or poor part should be remedied or recalled.


Seriously, every day seems like a few more people with a light tube problem.
Someone please engineer a fix :) I would try, but something would probably
get broken. Also, I'm thinking a first surface mirror is better for the light tube?

Add me to the list of 4805 owners with the "light tube" problem. Sure seems that way at least (about 4-5 pixels of brown/yellow on the right side of the screen, regardless of input source.

I will probably continue using the projector until I cannot no longer tolerate the issue (which will probably not be too long from now). Luckily, I bought the 4805 at the "warehouse" so I will return it and use the refund to put towards either another 4805 or ante up and get an in76 or something similar.

BTW, my projector is now 1.5 years old, with about 2600 hours on the original lamp. I have had the grinding noises intermittently -- they don't bother me so much.

Add me to the list of 4805 owners with the "light tube" problem. Sure seems that way at least (about 4-5 pixels of brown/yellow on the right side of the screen, regardless of input source.

I will probably continue using the projector until I cannot no longer tolerate the issue (which will probably not be too long from now). Luckily, I bought the 4805 at the "warehouse" so I will return it and use the refund to put towards either another 4805 or ante up and get an in76 or something similar.

BTW, my projector is now 1.5 years old, with about 2600 hours on the original lamp. I have had the grinding noises intermittently -- they don't bother me so much.

At 1.5 years I think you are still under warranty aren't you? Maybe get it fixed before using the "warehouse" return policy? I love it as much as you do, but in order to keep it so great I try not to abuse it when possible.

I too am now in the "grinding" group... Oddly right afte recieving my PJ back from service from IF (had dust blobs cleaned by them so as not to void warranty as well as look at some other issues). Third use after it came back, I had a sort of rotating rinding noise (I say rotating because it was on and off grinding like a large slow wheel with a rough spot) for the whole 2 hours I used it (didn't wnt to turn it off right then and be stuck off for 20 minutes). It hasn't happened again but I am not happy about it and hoping I get the light tube issue within the next year so I can still be in warranty...

My hopes are it will happen far enough along that they will replace my 4805 with a IN72... afraid it will be a 5000 or a really old 4805...

Seriously, every day seems like a few more people with a light tube problem.
Someone please engineer a fix :) I would try, but something would probably
get broken. Also, I'm thinking a first surface mirror is better for the light tube?

I haven't seen this light tube but my best guess at a decent fix is some sort of corner bracket that can withstand very high heats. Maybe with a few of them or a frame of them if they are small enough the tube can be reinforced so as not to collapse on itself...

The only person I heard of fixing it used siver duct tape which to me sounds like it is not a good idea due to the heat but it seems to have worked...

Kind of an odd question, but how does the 12 volt trigger work? Does it send out a 12 volt pulse or a constant 12 volts and is it ac or dc? Like could you power a DC light off it?

If anyone has any images of the light tube and mirrors/other parts, I'd be happy to take a stab at an answer for a fix. I'm a bit of the MacGuiver type, having spent years working in general maintenance.

Might take more than a paper clip, a rubber band, and a twist-tie on this one though. ;)

Might take more than a paper clip, a rubber band, and a twist-tie on this one though. A rubber band would melt and a twist-tie might burn, but paperclips make excellent tiny custom frames and mounts. I've been using them for years to repair the unrepairable. (TVs, VCRs, etc .. 34 years and counting)

Turns out the common line (white) to the lamp burned up, melting the lamp male connector to the female connector. Things like this usually happen when a connector isn't making good contact or it gets contaminated. RCA TVs were notorious for it, but they were low current so they didn't actually burn up. The connectors are an industrial standard and can be replaced.

At 1.5 years I think you are still under warranty aren't you? Maybe get it fixed before using the "warehouse" return policy? I love it as much as you do, but in order to keep it so great I try not to abuse it when possible.


My understanding is that Infocus' warranty is not honored with purchases at Costco, since they are not an authorized dealer (same reason why Infocus rebates were no good at Costco). But, this is just an assumption so I need to do some checking into it.

Also, FYI, using the satisfaction policy for this is actually using it the way it was meant to be used, and not abuse. Abuse would be returning a well functioning TV because newer models are now out. However, Costco makes it a point of providing a lifetime satisfaction guarantee to really ensure their members are happy with their purchases, even when out of mfg. warranty. Costco's great return policy means nothing to me and to you if you do not utilize it when appropriate. So, I am not interested in protecting it if I cannot use it when I need to.

Alright, sorry, rant off -- back to the 4805.

BTW, as of tonight my light tube issue is up to about 10 pixels wide. Bad color wheel grinding earlier too.... argh.

My understanding is that Infocus' warranty is not honored with purchases at Costco, since they are not an authorized dealer (same reason why Infocus rebates were no good at Costco).InFocus Customer Service confirmed to me recently that Costco is an authorized InFocus reseller.

The colour banding problem is caused by a failure of the light tunnel which transmits light from the lamp to the optical block (via the colour wheel). The mirrors in the light tunnel (also called light pipe) become loose and fall apart causing uneven transmission of the beam. This has NOTHING to do with the lamp artefacts. It has, however, a lot to do with the crappy manufacture of the Out-of-focus range. Your unit should be in warranty - get it fixed.

I have had my 4805 for about 9 months or so and am on my second bulb. Recently, I have noticed a yellowish or tan color bar on the far right side of the screen that I have never seen before. It appears on both DVD and Sat, and also if I plug the sources direct into the projector instead of through the receiver. I am running the M1 input, and I dont have long enough cables to try the component in. I routinely pull the bulb and clean the dust and even shoot canned air to clean it out. Can anybody shed some light on what it is I may be seeing? I would say that is about 3-5 percent of the screen at this point and Im not sure if its getting worse, but I cant stand it. It has to go, please help if you can. Thanks everyone!

~Jay

This maybe a misaligned mirror. It was discussed in the first 4805 thread. You'll most likely need to send the unit in to have it corrected.

On another note...

Glad to hear that you're keeping up on the maintenance of the filter, BUT...one of the worse things you can do is shoot compressed air into the lamp housing slot. :eek: You may end up actually forcing dust onto the color wheel, or worse yet the DMD!!! If you're intent on cleaning the housingarea, use a vaccum w/ small brush attachment. That way your sucking the dust out, and not forcing it into the unit!

At 1.5 years I think you are still under warranty aren't you? Maybe get it fixed before using the "warehouse" return policy? I love it as much as you do, but in order to keep it so great I try not to abuse it when possible.

I too am now in the "grinding" group... Oddly right afte recieving my PJ back from service from IF (had dust blobs cleaned by them so as not to void warranty as well as look at some other issues). Third use after it came back, I had a sort of rotating rinding noise (I say rotating because it was on and off grinding like a large slow wheel with a rough spot) for the whole 2 hours I used it (didn't wnt to turn it off right then and be stuck off for 20 minutes). It hasn't happened again but I am not happy about it and hoping I get the light tube issue within the next year so I can still be in warranty...

My hopes are it will happen far enough along that they will replace my 4805 with a IN72... afraid it will be a 5000 or a really old 4805...

I'm with you, buddy..... in the same situation. Although mine is a little worse. I bought mine on Ebay (I know, I know) and am not under warranty nor can I return it. My only hope is that I can sell it "as-is" and recoup SOME of my costs.

I'm going to do the same thing - hang in there and see how much it bothers me and how bad it gets. I'll probably buy another projector soon - but not sure what to buy. I could buy another 4805 and keep this bulb for backup (only has about 800 hrs) or "upgrade". I don't want to spend more than 800 or so if possible.

This really really stinks. I had my projector less than a year and it worked like a dream for 11 of those months. Anxiously awaiting a MacGyver-like solution - then I'll give it one last hurrah and then bite the bullet.

Suggestions on another PJ are appreciated (I started another thread).

My understanding is that Infocus' warranty is not honored with purchases at Costco, since they are not an authorized dealer (same reason why Infocus rebates were no good at Costco). But, this is just an assumption so I need to do some checking into it.

Also, FYI, using the satisfaction policy for this is actually using it the way it was meant to be used, and not abuse. Abuse would be returning a well functioning TV because newer models are now out. However, Costco makes it a point of providing a lifetime satisfaction guarantee to really ensure their members are happy with their purchases, even when out of mfg. warranty. Costco's great return policy means nothing to me and to you if you do not utilize it when appropriate. So, I am not interested in protecting it if I cannot use it when I need to.

Alright, sorry, rant off -- back to the 4805.

BTW, as of tonight my light tube issue is up to about 10 pixels wide. Bad color wheel grinding earlier too.... argh.

I had not thought of the Costco voiding warranty thing... It looks like it's not the case however you are right it would not be abusing the system to return in that case.

I just mean that while you are under man warranty I think it's decent to persue repairs that way (even if it costs you a few $ shipping) than use Costco's return policy. I use costcos return policy until the 30 day mark, then do my best not to.

I am having some problems with my 4805 with what I can only describe as vertical banding. I know that DLP projectors are not supposed to suffer from this, but I see vertical bands on the screen especially in black and white scenes or dark scenes. I'm sure there must be a setting to alleviate this, but not sure which one. Any ideas?

I just get my 4805 back from a local 3rd-party servicing centre (which is the only one in singapore). the technician help me change the following: Color Wheel, Fan, and Power Socket Port.

I found that the 4805 sounds louder than before, like its has another sound which totally overshadows the air-whooshing sound. The sound is abit like loud variable hum and crickets-at-night, which will echo the whole room(an isolated Home Theatre Room), and trust me it louder than before i send my 4805 for servicing. i switch on my sound system, and the weird sound can be heard clearly. even my 16 year old sister found the sound weird and obviously louder. i suspect it is the sound made by the new color wheel.

the very next day, i brought back the 4805 to the servicing center, and as expected the technician is not very unhappy. i tried to explain the problem to him, and he keep explaining that it sounds normal (he never really listen to the 4805 anyway), and keep bashing back at me in front of other people, as if i am an stubborn idiot. he even question me of his professionalism, not to mention that he keep giving me a slanted-eye stare look.

Another technician is also unable to hear it, but at least he mention he will take it back to infocus main office to investigate. Now i am going to wait for at least a week, but i am not expecting any good news, as there is only one servicing center and the main Infocus office is basically a distributor. Now i am pissed. Anyone can suggest any ideas to solve my case?

I agree that Infocus has a deplorable customer service department and that their technical department is just as bad. When I had the 4800 I had all sorts of problems with the grinding and vertical banding. My lamp had only 800 hours on it when I returned it. They had to send me a new (refurbished) projector because they did not have the parts to fix it. They did say they used the original lamp from the first projector away. When I got the projector the lamp had over 1900 hours of use. When I called c/s they said they just forgot to reset the lamp hours. The grinding sound was present almost immediately and 8 months later the lamp blew. Customer service refused to accept responsibility; as I am sure they gave me an older lamp, saying it would be against the law and that I had no proof. I sent the projector in and like I wrote earlier, they dragged their feet until I mentioned the BBB. They told me that I needed to buy a new lamp and suggested that it would be better to upgrade as I would get a new lamp with the refurbished unit free. I made sure that my 5 year warranty transferred over to the 4805 and they said, ‘Don’t worry; it’s all taken care of.”
When I called tech support yesterday; they first said they had no record of me until I started producing old emails, names, and dates. Then the rep said, “Oh yeah, here it is, I don’t know how I messed it.” After explaining my problem, I said I needed to send it in for repairs. I asked about the price and he gave me the $600 figure. I mentioned the 5 year warranty and the rep told me that I lost it when I upgraded and there was nothing I could do about it.
All said and done; I admitted defeat, told him to buy a ****** Infocus projector, and hoped he would get his colon stretched out by his company’s poor product and customer support.
Be very careful about upgrading with Infocus.

As I mentioned in an earlier post, my wife's SP4805 stopped working about a week after she got it and it was returned under an RMA in early February. It was waiting for a "CPU Board" for which InFocus had no ETA. Finally, after four months, they are sending a replacement. We don't have any confidence whatsoever that this replacement unit isn't simply someone else's "grief" and will be looking at it very carefully for flaws.

Somewhere I read about using a product called ROR(Residual Oil Remover) and Kimwipes (dont use microfiber). All I can say is WOW! My lens was cloudy and using alcohol formula for camera lenses just didnt work. I even tried the 3M Scotch tape method which helped but the ROR stuff rocks. I did 3 cleanings and it really defined the picture it looks like an upgrade. So I just wanted to post this in case anyone was frustrated with a cloudy lens on ther SP4805.

I also want to mention that Score (Pelican) Universal System Selector Pro 2.0 sucks. It really chokes the image above 480p (I pretty picky though). If anyone can recommend I quality component switcher I would like to know. Currently I am looking at Audio Authorities 1154A or anything under $400 with at least 4 in and 1 out.

Just 2 cents of information that frustrated me for 2 months hope it helps someone.

If anyone can recommend I quality component switcher I would like to know.http://www.zektor.com (http://www.zektor.com/). I just got one of their DVI switches.

Somewhere I read about using a product called ROR(Residual Oil Remover) and Kimwipes (dont use microfiber). All I can say is WOW! My lens was cloudy and using alcohol formula for camera lenses just didnt work. I even tried the 3M Scotch tape method which helped but the ROR stuff rocks. I did 3 cleanings and it really defined the picture it looks like an upgrade. So I just wanted to post this in case anyone was frustrated with a cloudy lens on ther SP4805.

I also want to mention that Score (Pelican) Universal System Selector Pro 2.0 sucks. It really chokes the image above 480p (I pretty picky though). If anyone can recommend I quality component switcher I would like to know. Currently I am looking at Audio Authorities 1154A or anything under $400 with at least 4 in and 1 out.

Just 2 cents of information that frustrated me for 2 months hope it helps someone.
Sparkbox, Where can one find the two products you mentioned? Thanks

I also want to mention that Score (Pelican) Universal System Selector Pro 2.0 sucks.

Pelican is to AV equipment as Memorex is to DVD media. :( Avoid both at all costs.

InFocus didn't replace anything to fix my light tube problem. They just upgraded the software (not just the firmware) and "adjusted" the banding. Now the "About" menu shows Software 1.3.2, Boot 1.3, and OEM 1.2. Is this different from what everybody else has?

InFocus didn't replace anything to fix my light tube problem. They just upgraded the software (not just the firmware) and "adjusted" the banding. Now the "About" menu shows Software 1.3.2, Boot 1.3, and OEM 1.2. Is this different from what everybody else has?

Could you explain what you mean by "banding"?

I believe my software is what you quoted--I will have to check. I upgraded when the streak showed up on the right side, to no avail. Maybe the banding adjustment would help?

Could you explain what you mean by "banding"?I had the brownish yellow stripe on the side that looked like a cigarette burn, the same one that has been described here. InFocus fixed it under warranty. The repair ticket called it "banding" because I had to pick a category on their website before I could describe the light tube problem.

Just thought Id post this since it happened to me. One reason why you may want to do a full power off is that if you power down with the remote(soft powerdown) and then if your electricity goes out and comes back on it will re-strike the bulb. I had this happen to me, my power went out and it was struggling to come back on, it was 3:45am and I was asleep but my subconscious was working - I kept hearing this CHIRP, CHIRP CHIRP and it was the bulb re-striking every 20 seconds as the power would come on then fail then come back on then fail. Finally my brain was like HOLYSHEAIT thats my SP4805 being brutalized, I quickly jumped up and full power off(The Switch). Just something to consider.

(Thank god I had the chirp sound on or all night it would have happen 25-50 times as the electricity was really acting up that night and I'd never known it.)

This is pretty similar to what I use to shut off my 4805. Cost me $7 last year on sale. Love the remote.

http://images.lowes.com/product/078693/078693225550.jpg

I am considering moving my 4805 outdoors by the pool for a movie night for some friends.
Any ideas on the set-up?

I use a surge protector power strip to turn on/off so as to not wear out the switch on the 4805 and to not have to reach up to the ceiling. I also recently added a UPS so I could just soft power on/off and not worry about power drops, surges and outages.

Pelican is to AV equipment as Memorex is to DVD media. :( Avoid both at all costs.


Umm thanks :D got any more helpful ideas? I new it was a stretch but none of the high end shops seem to carry a component switcher and I wanted to see what 100 would do (not much). Why not leave a suggestion with your post?

I got a 2 year warranty on the refurb I got for low dollars last black friday. Got it in writing from the retailer and also got screen caps showing that they were offering a 2 year warranty. So either infocus owes me a warranty or circuit city does.

Either way, I win.

If it’s any help, I built my screen from 4 X 8 X ¾ in. oak veneer and use a basic 2 X 4 frame. I went to Home Depot with my original projector screen to have it scanned so I could get an exact colored paint. From there it was just sanding, painting with a fine matted roller, and finishing off with some molding. I used an indoor high grade paint: low matte; but, I’m sure the same could be done for an outdoor high grade latex based paint. As long as it’s sealed, I bet it would look great and last a long time. Maybe a retouch of paint every year would be the only maintenance required. My screen was awesome before my 4805 took a dump on me. Hope it helps.

Could you explain what you mean by "banding"?

I believe my software is what you quoted--I will have to check. I upgraded when the streak showed up on the right side, to no avail. Maybe the banding adjustment would help?

I am showing 1.21 for software, but everything else is the same.

Factor VIII,
Thanks for the idea regarding the screen>it's very much appreciated.
What about the set-up w/ dvd player PJ and speakers. I was thinking of buying a TV cart on ebay. What do you think?
Thanks again,
Derek

...I was thinking of buying a TV cart on ebay...

??? :confused: For what?

Derek,
That’s an aspect I didn’t think of. You’ll have to find a way to keep your components out of the weather. Personally, I think your tv cart idea is the best idea to protect your stuff. Now I think of it, you could permanently wire your audio and use weather proof outlet boxes to protect your cable ends, then it’s a matter of selecting speakers. As I have no experience with outdoor speakers; I’d set it up just like my home theater and keep the speakers mobile too.
Hell, while you’re at it, check out http://www.avscience.com/reviews/screen_the_solution_xls12_theater.htm
from Jason Turk. It will cost significantly more than doing it yourself but it will be easer. Keep researching it though; I know everyone here has a plethora of information. Good luck!

Welcome to the forum!

Part of your problem is the glass beaded screen used with a ceiling mounted projector. Glass beaded screens do not reflect light, they refract light. Light directed at a glass beaded screen is returned along the very same path it arrived on. Check out Da-Lite's for more detailed information on reflective properties. Try shooting directly onto the wall to see if the black levels are any better.

I'm unsure what to think about the air conditioner work done and how that can affect the black levels. I believe it's unrelated. Have you cleaned the lamp screens? Do you have control over ambient light? You can also try a factory reset.

htr

Ur advice helped me a lot. I did take off the glass beaded screen & replaced it with my older matte white screen & the contrast was much better. I had read about grey screens on this thread but dint know which shade of grey as i live in India, the misty grey would not be available here. So i tried different shades of grey & finally settled for a shade that gives me good whites & descent blacks. At 1st i tried a darker grey & it sucked off the whites a little too much wherein the scenes shot in daylight looked as if they were shot late evening. Then i changed over to a lighter shade of grey & the white-black balance is very well maintained. Any other suggestions for me?

Sparkbox, Where can one find the two products you mentioned? Thanks

ROR (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?A=details&Q=&is=REG&O=productlist&sku=64495)

Kimwipes (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=26249&is=REG&addedTroughType=search)

I am considering moving my 4805 outdoors by the pool for a movie night for some friends.
Any ideas on the set-up?

Try to avoid splashes that hit the projector?

Hardest part for me was coming up with a good stable DIY screen. I wound up putting blackout material on a wall last year, but that was too small. I found a roll of approx 6 foot wide white fabric I want to try this year. Still not sure how I'm going to mount - I don't want to invest a huge amount of time and money to build a frame. I'll probably try a tent pole type approach.

I used a small cheapo DVD player and powered computer speakers. Not bad for one time use.

If I were doing a quickie, one-time use only, here's what I'd do:

Find area where PJ can be mounted into patio ceiling or something else (nobody bumping PJ as opposed to on cart or other). Fill the 3 screw holes later in about 5 easy minutes. Quick tack power/DVD input cords to walls so nobody trips on them (or electrocutes whole pool). 72" width BOC sheet at any fabric store for about $16 total. 8 pop-rivets (4 in corners, 4 in centers) and affix with rope to whatever you can use and take out easily (closer to a solid wall the better for wind reduction and keeping curious guests from messing) OR quickie 2X4 boards cut to size at hardware store + 4 corner brackets + staple gun (20 minutes, tops).

Granted, this isn't the best or even easiest way to do it, but I think it accounts for minimal time factor and most importantly, safety issues. Last thing you want is a $10 million lawsuit on your hands for trying to entertain guests. (Hey, it happens, even between the best of friends.)

I am showing 1.21 for software, but everything else is the same.1.3.2 is the new firmware that I flashed a few months ago, so I can't figure out what InFocus did to fix my light tube problem since they didn't replace anything. :confused:

1.3.2 is the new firmware that I flashed a few months ago, so I can't figure out what InFocus did to fix my light tube problem since they didn't replace anything. :confused:
Perhaps they repositioned and reglued the mirrors of the light tube. May be the banding thing you mentioned...just a thought.

Perhaps they repositioned and reglued the mirrors of the light tube. May be the banding thing you mentioned...just a thought.The tech guy I spoke to said that they would never bother to do that.: they would just replace the whole light engine instead.

I have been reading as many posts possible within this thread as well as the 4805 #1 thread and here is my problem.

Component, S-Video, RCA = Works
M1 - VGA = Works
M1 - DVI = Doesn't Work

I got my M1- DVI-D from riteav and it worked great. Then one day, the computer stopped recognizing the projector completely.

If I used the M1-VGA, it works, but not the DVI-D. To make sure it wasn't the video card, I plugged in a DVI-D cable to an LCD monitor with no problems.

Then to troubleshoot the projector, I plugged in the DVI-D cable to my HD tuner reciever. It works!?!? I called Infocus Tech and the rep had no idea what was wrong with it. I thought I would post here before sending it off for RMA. I read from

avsforum /avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5672301#post5672301

that Brian I Am had the same problem but couldn't find his solution.

Help Please!!

The tech guy I spoke to said that they would never bother to do that.: they would just replace the whole light engine instead.


That's why even though I have a 4 year warranty from InFocus, I cringe every time I flip the switch. Certainly, they should repair any issues I have for the next 3 1/2 years, but let’s say I have the light tube issue. They take my unit which has been treated like a newborn baby since it arrived in my home, slap it around, probably scratch the case, and replace the insides of my otherwise perfectly working projector with a light engine of unknown quality. It may be new, but more likely a remanufactured part that may or may not have ran 16 hours a day in the middle of a foundry, broadcasting job information. When returned I will have to go through the nail biting, breathe holding experience of the first fire up. You know what I mean, like the first time you start a desktop LCD monitor and look for dead/stuck pixels, knowing the odds are literally 3,000,000:1 against you.

I used to believe (naively) that all factory service departments were staffed with highly competent technicians, truly concerned with the customer’s prized possession. After working at several corporations I found the repair techs positions were typically something most people wanted the hell out of, ASAP.

One could certainly argue that many repair tech are excellent and very caring and I wouldn't disagree, however as my luck holds, mine will go to Johnny Dontgiveacrap, and probably on a Friday afternoon before a holiday.

My point being I guess, is that even if we have inexpensive units like the 4805, most FP enthusiasts are by definition, technical leaders, when compared against Joe Average who is happy with his 19” Protron from WalMart. We have suffered through learning about FP, taken the chance of ordering sight unseen, probably been figuratively kicked in the pearls by some little detail we missed, and finally got our setup running like we always dreamed. For me anyway, my 4805 is virtually “perfect” in the sense that it delivers more than I had expected in that the picture is pretty much flawless. The guy/gal factory tech working to fix my unit most likely does not have the proper setup or frankly, the burning desire, to care about the seemingly tiny imperfections they may introduce that drive people like me nuts.

My goal is to never have to send mine in for repair. Based on the thousands of posts I have read, I think the chances of that are very small. Seems to me a FP is the equivalent of a laptop. Lots of stuff crammed into a small, hotass space with the question not being *if* it will break, but *when*.

tomrakers, you're worryin' too much bro! InFocus is in general a highly professional well run company as far as customer service goes. Not to say there aren't exceptions, that's why I said "in general". Long story short: My first 4805 had a white line down the side of the screen, so they replaced it with a new one, although it was discovered after exchange that it was a software issue. The second one was never quite as sharp as the first, but was within spec . More than a year later I had a yellow line/mirror problem. They replaced my light engine and it now looks as good as the first one. InFocus did a good job, honored their warranty, and never put a scratch on my 4805.

I agree with Martin, I believe IF treats your repairs with "white gloves". I sent mine in for some dust blobs I believe and it came back in exceptional working condidtion, probably better than what I sent in.

...I believe and it came back in exceptional working condidtion, probably better than what I sent in.

As it should have. Problem is, we've all been through what tomrakers has at some point, which leads us into praising a company like gods when they actually do the job that they're supposed to and what should be the standard of any reputable company's repair/customer service department.

They take my unit which has been treated like a newborn baby since it arrived in my home, slap it around, probably scratch the case, and replace the insides of my otherwise perfectly working projectorAfter FIVE MONTHS of waiting for my wife's projector to be fixed, and TWO WEEKS after they said they were shipping a replacement, we still do not have her projector back. As of today, they promised [yeah right!] to send me a tracking number when they ship the replacement which they "think" will be this week.

I think your assessment the quality of their repair and management is accurate. As a point of reference, their quarterly report shows they lost almost $30M on sales of about 190,000 projectors in the last six months reported and have had three major internal investigations going on relating to business and accounting practices and almost lost their NASDAQ listing. Ask yourself how much "kid glove" treatment occurs in an atmosphere like that!

cavu,

Why are you standing for this? Why aren't you on the phone with Bob Williams directly? I can honestly say that someone's head would be on the chopping block if that were my situation. I'd be calling Bob or as far up as you can get every single day until they got sick of me and just sent me a new IF72 to shut me up. Five months is insane for any repair. They should have sent you a replacement long ago, calls or not.

I, on the other hand agree with tomrakers. “IF” has some very good people; however, as apparent by the posts here, the bad techs outweigh the good ones. Each of us has in some way gotten the shaft from IF (without any KY) and some of have accepted it, while others have not.

My first 4805 had a white line down the side of the screen, so they replaced it with a new one, although it was discovered after exchange that it was a software issue. The second one was never quite as sharp as the first, but was within spec.

I’m not knocking on you Martin (just liked the text); however, I would have never accepted it. We each have sort of settled for substandard service with “IF”. If it was one of our cars that was returned scratched, dented, or with a refurbished tire, there would be hell to pay. With “IF”, we simply accept it.

Just to clarify my long post above, the dealings I have had with IF tech support has been good. My 4805 has never had a problem. The screen that came with it had a huge wave and they promptly replaced it for me.

I am not in any way saying IF customer repair sucks because I do not have first hand experience. What I was commenting on was I *have* observed the backend of several corporations where I have worked and in each case the repair facility was not well equipped and most, but not all, of the techs could care less.

That combined with the almost universal practice of using "like new" replacement parts makes getting something repaired very scary these days.

I had a major horror story years back with a Mitsubishi 50". The end result after they "fixed" it twice was they brought a new unit which functioned flawlessly for over 10 years. I pity the fool who ended up with the first two they took back.

Commenting on one of the posts above about calling every day, while I would hate to do it, it does work. I was a CSE and a FSE for about 6 years. While there is certainly some in-house hand tying, there is also many times a lot of leeway available when some poor guy has obviously gotten the shaft. I remember working 8 hours on a 30Kw FM transmitter that was barely 2 weeks old (We are talking about a unit that costs many tens of thousands of dollars). It was working when I was finished, but I fought tooth and nail back at the factory to get this guy a new unit. In the end, I won, and that one incident indirectly resulting in the company landing a huge multi-million dollar contract because the story got around the industry.

Anyone purchase a replacement lamp from AVS?

Does anyone have a good E-mail address for an IF executive? It may not produce any good results; however, it might be entertaining to share our horror stories with someone high up in the company.

Why are you standing for this? As a former advocate, and even "cheerleader", for InFocus, it is with difficulty I admit that I have lost all respect for this company. I have stated my reasons in detail on these fora only to have my posts deleted by the moderator. [Let's see how long this message lasts!] Suffice it to say that while I have great admiration for Bob Williams and his team, the ethics of InFocus in their business practices are a long, long ways from their published "Code of Conduct" which states "We build long-term profitable relationships with our customers by demonstrating honesty and integrity in our communication and dealings with them day to day. All of our marketing and advertising will be accurate and truthful. Deliberately misleading messages, omissions of important facts or false claims about our products or our competition are never acceptable. We will only obtain business legally and ethically."
Bottom line?

Although I purchased and installed almost 20 InFocus projectors for family and friends, and proactively recommended their product to hundreds of people, after my "AVS InFocus Powerbuy" experience I gave up my IN76 without ever breaking the seal on the package andI WILL NEVER BUY NOR RECOMMEND AN INFOCUS PRODUCT AGAIN!Why aren't you on the phone with Bob Williams directly?This 'out-of-service' projector is our kitchen 32-inch "plasma" unit. If it were my theatre unit, I would likely react much more assertively.

I have a log of about thirty calls and a half dozen emails but I am so disgusted with InFocus at the moment that I am just letting them "stew in their own juices", which I will dutifully report.

Bob is a wonderful engineer but has no control over the ethics or integrity of InFocus management. It's unfortunate that his talents are wasted on this company. Wouldn't it be refreshing if the rest of the company acted with his forthrightness!!??

Does anyone have a good E-mail address for an IF executive? It may not produce any good results; however, it might be entertaining to share our horror stories with someone high up in the company.InFocus has just appointed a new VP North American Sales, Brian Dennison.

Assuming that his email follows the practice of other InFocus personnel, his email address is Brian.Dennison@infocus.com

I have just sent him the following email:To: Brian Dennison <Brian.Dennison@infocus.com>

Hey Brian!

I realize that you are barely settled into your chair but would like to bring a situation to your attention.

I hope that the massive communications problems experienced with your company were due to the fact that the sales department was "leaderless" at the time and that a solution might be found under your watch.

Here is a link to a posting that I have made on the very popular AVS Forum:http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7748831&&#post7748831
If you are at all concerned about the issues I refer to, please contact me and I will fill you in.

If you are not concerned and do not contact me, "c'est la vie"! Your loss.

****** *******
204.000.0000

cc: AVS Forum (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7749086&&#post7749086)

I am not holding my breath for a reply.

Well Cavu, I must say that it is admirable of you to take this position since most if not all here follow your lead and recommendations. I hadn't realize the situation had gotton to this point. This is rather unfortunate and hopefully your letters of communication can have a positive effect in returning the previous quality of service and the positive experience with Infocus. I also hope these posts are not removed by AVS mods since this is a very powerful medium and channel in getting the coorporate folks to take notice of end-users plight and difficulties.

BTW - I will be in the market soon for another PJ since I may have to sell my 4805 with my current house. Are you recommeding any HT PJs at the moment?

Thank you.

cavu this is definitely a more directed approach as it gives Brain a level of accountability towards you. Thank you for representing us!

cavu, hey i'm not trying to start a fight or piss you off or anything, but i can tell you that you're kidding yourself if you think that infocus is the only company that drops the ball, steps on their wang and pisses customers off. i'd go a step further and say that every FP manufacturer represented on this forum has their own customer service, engineering and manufacturing issues. the proof is on this board, in other threads. it's really sad that all this has happened to you and that they haven't made things right, but you're not alone, and neither is infocus. it's great that you're sharing your pain and educating others about the problems you've faced, but for every cavu their are hundreds of satisfied business users and home theater enthusiasts who own infocus products. chances are you won't hear from them. personally, i think infocus has been doing great, digging themselves out of a hole caused by some bad decisions. i hope they continue to make gains and that they eventually make things right with you.

i can tell you that you're kidding yourself if you think that infocus is the only company that drops the ball, steps on their wang and pisses customers off.You are completely right in the above statement. However, that fact is not an excuse for anyone to accept that as the "norm".

I was a "product manager" in an electronics company for longer than I care to remember and, more than once, I sat in the chair of shame.

But I never once said "Well our competition isn't any better!" and sat on my ass. We never, ever, quit on a customer! It didn't matter what it took, we either fixed the problem to the customer's satisfaction or we refunded all monies spent by them.

In one instance, when we couldn't meet a specification that we had comitted to, we purchased a competitor's much more expensive product (at retail) and supplied that to the customer to get him out of a jam.

I am not a naive kid. I have done this for almost 40 years and have the scars to prove it.

good points. depending on your expectations at this point, i bet they take care of you. i could be wrong, but i have a pretty good feeling they'll try to make things right by you.

what exactly would it take for you to be happy at this point? i think in fairness you should state that.

Just to show that my experiences with vendors are not all bad, here's a good news story:

I, like others, have knashed my teeth over switching DVI signals. First I was going to get a bigger/better AV receiver which would switch my DVI sources (cable & DVD) to my InFocus projector. But then I hoped to use the two digital inputs on the IN76 and let the projector do the switching. However, when I didn't keep the IN76 I was back to the original problem.

I found a neat Zektor DVI 5x1 switcher (http://www.zektor.com/dvs51/index.html) on the AVS for sale forum. Unfortunately, one of the channels didn't work and it was missing the red lense for the IR detector. I called Zektor and asked if they would quote me on repairing this "long-out-of-warranty" unit and I had the seller drop ship it directly to Zektor for inspection.

Yesterday, Zektor emailed me and said that they had repaired the unit, applied a bunch of engineering change orders to make it current, replaced the missing lens and were shipping it to me AT NO CHARGE!

Bravo to Zektor!!!!

As cavu is representing all of us who are dissatisfied with “IF”, you realize you are addressing each of us as a whole. Would you also like to know what it would take to make the rest of us happy? I mean no disrespect; however, as you criticize cavu you consequently criticize us also.

what exactly would it take for you to be happy at this point?InFocus should restore "authorized dealer status" to the AVS Powerbuy vendor with public apologies for the extremely shabby and unethical treatment he received. He was cut off despite receiving permission in writing from InFocus to make the AVS offer. I won't go into it further here because madpoet will kill the post again.

Disclosure: I was the one who suggested the InFocus INxx AVS Powerbuy idea to that fledgling dealer, a really honourable young man; it was so traumatic for him that he hasn't spoken to me in two months.

Would you also like to know what it would take to make the rest of us happy?.

that depends. is your projector still in warranty?! ;)

as you criticize cavu you consequently criticize us also.
i'm not criticizing anybody

So.....................

I have been reading as many posts possible within this thread as well as the 4805 #1 thread and here is my problem.

Component, S-Video, RCA = Works
M1 - VGA = Works
M1 - DVI = Doesn't Work

I got my M1- DVI-D from riteav and it worked great. Then one day, the computer stopped recognizing the projector completely.

If I used the M1-VGA, it works, but not the DVI-D. To make sure it wasn't the video card, I plugged in a DVI-D cable to an LCD monitor with no problems.

Then to troubleshoot the projector, I plugged in the DVI-D cable to my HD tuner reciever. It works!?!? I called Infocus Tech and the rep had no idea what was wrong with it. I thought I would post here before sending it off for RMA. I read from

avsforum /avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5672301#post5672301

that Brian I Am had the same problem but couldn't find his solution.

Help Please!!

Kind of an odd situation. How long is your current DVI cable? Try a shorter cable or another pc with DVI output (if you have one available) and see if they work any better.

As I have long said, it is up to us the individuals to put a stop to corporate greed, ensure our own job security and ensure consumer protection and satisfaction. Once we have the committment and channels on which to act, making use of it is only up to us.

As with Cavu's recent example and I also had one recently with monoprice, it is only these type of companies we can count on and to protect them and their service it is up to us to ensure that the bigger, greedier fishes do not gobble them up and give us crap for service.

lol, a little dramatic don't you think? i don't think "corporate greed" has anything to do with what's going on here on the last few pages of this thread. i have to admit cavu's last response is news to me, i know nothing about that situation and was never around when that went down. i thought we were talking about his rma fiasco. a lot of consumers position manufacturers as out to screw joe-6-pack. the reality is, it's in their best interest to make sure people are happy. it's making EVERYBODY happy that's the tough part. can we at least agree on that?

So.....................



Kind of an odd situation. How long is your current DVI cable? Try a shorter cable or another pc with DVI output (if you have one available) and see if they work any better.

Thanks for the reply Ja Phule. From what I read, you are the person to talk to with this matter. The problem is beyond my knowledge of this stuff. The cable is 5m long. The wierd part is that the cable works with my HD tuner box and this cable has worked in the past with no problems. In fact, I used this cable with a 15ft extension before this problem occured. I tried using the M1-DVI-D cable on two computers. One using a ATI 9600XT and another a NVidia 6600GT. I don't know what else to do except RMA it and have them send me the exact cable they used to get it working.

bsball115, i replied to your post in the other thread

with the projector on, uninstall your video card drivers, run a driver cleaner program and reinstall. it's probably an edid issue due to your long cable length. if that's the cultrpit, you'll probably have the same issue everytime you reboot. the only thing i know of that can solve the problem is a gefen product called dvi detective (or a shorter cable). did you try this yet?

it's possible you have something else going on, but give it a try. i've had the same issue with a 4805.

Thanks for the reply Ja Phule. From what I read, you are the person to talk to with this matter. The problem is beyond my knowledge of this stuff. The cable is 5m long. The wierd part is that the cable works with my HD tuner box and this cable has worked in the past with no problems. In fact, I used this cable with a 15ft extension before this problem occured. I tried using the M1-DVI-D cable on two computers. One using a ATI 9600XT and another a NVidia 6600GT. I don't know what else to do except RMA it and have them send me the exact cable they used to get it working.

Did you make any changes to your system recently that may have caused this problem to occur? I can't say I know what the exact problem is, but if it's not a pc software problem as billymac suggests, I'm guessing it's possible that your cable could've gone bad, and that your pc dvi devices are sending a weaker DVI signal compared to your hd tuner box so the cable transmits the hd signal better. Just a guess of course. Hopefully it's just a software issue as billymac stated.

Did you make any changes to your system recently that may have caused this problem to occur? I can't say I know what the exact problem is, but if it's not a pc software problem as billymac suggests, I'm guessing it's possible that your cable could've gone bad, and that your pc dvi devices are sending a weaker DVI signal compared to your hd tuner box so the cable transmits the hd signal better. Just a guess of course. Hopefully it's just a software issue as billymac stated.

Thanks for the quick responses Billy and Ja Phule. I just tried the software approach and of coarse the quickest/cheapest solution didn't work. I will try your advice on getting a different cable. Can you direct me to where you got your M1-DVI cable from? The prices for cables at Infocus are rediculous.

to test for an edid issue, you'll need a short dvi cable

uninstall, clean, reinstall see if you get an image. make sure your resolution is set to 848x480. physcially select m1/dvi on the remote to make sure you're on the right port. (even with autosource) does it work? does it list the display as the actual 4805?. if so, next try the long cable, does it work? if not, uninstall drivers, clean reinstall. does it work? can you login remotely and see what the video card sees? does it say "default monitor" or analog display? if so, it's most likely it's your cable length or the cable itself.

this is all made a lot easier with some remote managment software from another computer on your network.

the problem is not with the signal getting to the projector, the problem is with the projector telling the pc what it is, "hey, it's me over here, mr. 4805! connect to me digitally please!" that's what EDID is. this signal can deteriorate over long runs and once the pc loses the edid info, it doesn't see it the same way anymore. something about reinstalling the drivers works for me. i don't exactly understand why, but it does. i've been too cheap to buy a dvi detective and have been hoping for a software fix. they dvi detective is abouty $70.

Thanks for the quick responses Billy and Ja Phule. I just tried the software approach and of coarse the quickest/cheapest solution didn't work. I will try your advice on getting a different cable. Can you direct me to where you got your M1-DVI cable from? The prices for cables at Infocus are rediculous.

I've had really good luck with these guys and they're super reasonable.

http://www.cablewholesale.com/

Thanks for the quick responses Billy and Ja Phule. I just tried the software approach and of coarse the quickest/cheapest solution didn't work. I will try your advice on getting a different cable. Can you direct me to where you got your M1-DVI cable from? The prices for cables at Infocus are rediculous.

Lot of happy (and unhappy) 4805 users are using m1/dvi cables from monoprice.com. I'm using the infocus m1 to dvi cable and have a gender changer with a 15ft monoprice dvi cable with no issues. People have had success with the 50ft m1/dvi cable from monoprice.com (though I'm not saying you should get one).

bsball, did you try a short cable yet to test the edid theory? if you don't have one laying around, can you borrow one from a friend or something?

bsball, did you try a short cable yet to test the edid theory? if you don't have one laying around, can you borrow one from a friend or something?

Wow, you guess are quick! I really appreciate the help. Unfortunetely, I don't have another cable or know anyone else that does. Thanks for the links. I went to monoprice.com and found this one (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10238&cs_id=1023801&p_id=2499&seq=1&format=2&style=) . Before I hit buy, can I get a confirmation this is the correct "shorter" cable I need or should I get the 3ft one?

Thank ya

6ft should be good enough.

6ft should be good enough.

Well thanks for all the help so far. I should have the cable in a couple days and will post my results for others that might have this problem.

Wasn't there a problem a while back identified with PC DVI not handshaking with the 4805 and IF using a signal generator and thus getting results? Maybe that's what's happening?

I agree with Martin, I believe IF treats your repairs with "white gloves". I sent mine in for some dust blobs I believe and it came back in exceptional working condidtion, probably better than what I sent in.Same here. I had what looked like the "light tube" problem. InFocus fixed it and I had it back 9 days after I sent it in and it now looks better than ever. I just wanted to find out exactly what they did so that maybe I could help out the many other 4805 owners who have that problem but are not under warranty. Repair quotes of > $1,000 are just obscene.

There are many good stories out there about superb customer service. I put a hole in one of the woofers on my Axiom M22ti's. It was totally my fault. I called Axiom to order a new woofer. They sent me one free of charge. My friend cracked his carbon kayak paddle in half. His fault, but I easily could have done the same thing to mine (don't ever put too weight on the middle of the shaft). AquaBound replaced it free of charge. Great products with even greater customer service.

It's disappointing to hear a company with a great product stumble on customer service, and it's downright stupid for a company to mistreat someone like cavu (or DaGamePimp, who just gave up on InFocus -- he is missed in this forum). As much as I love my 4805, I will remember all of these things when it's time to upgrade.

It's disappointing to hear a company with a great product stumble on customer service, and it's downright stupid for a company to mistreat someone like cavu (or DaGamePimp, who just gave up on InFocus -- he is missed in this forum). As much as I love my 4805, I will remember all of these things when it's time to upgrade.

Well, I am in need of a new PJ for a house I am building and am now in a predicament whether to go with IF again (great product this 4805) or will they self destruct even more. I am in the mergers and acquisitions business everyday so I know how easy it is for one company to get greedy in one area (the kind of cash out mentality) after establishing a brand and neglect their customers before succumbing to the big fishes to buy them up. I hope this is not the case since good competition is the best benefit to consumers, but one can never know what goes on behind close doors sometimes. :(

Well, I am in need of a new PJ for a house I am building and am now in a predicament whether to go with IF again (great product this 4805) or will they self destruct even more.(As good as DLP is, I'm still amazed that it works at all -- it seems that there are so many things that can go wrong. This forum confirmed my suspicions: an inexpensive refurb with a short warranty is very risky. The extended warranty I got from Circuit City (because I thought a 90-day bulb warranty was too risky) definitely was worth the peace of mind.

The 4805 is still great for the money, but since repairs not covered by warranty may cost more than a new one at full retail, at what price would a "bargain" or refurb unit not be too expensive to just discard and replace (like a DVD player or a VCR) when it breaks down after the warranty expires? :confused: That's a tough question with no universal answer.

tomrakers, you're worryin' too much bro! Talk about a panic attack waiting to happen, I'm curious how much alcohol he has to consume to make it through the day.

Thanks for your concern, but no alcohol for me thanks. :-)

Hopefully I will never need to find out what actual hands-on service IF delivers.

Unfortunately bad CS is typical these days with lack of respect for others property being commonplace.

not sure how I would go about searching the thread/forum for this problem, but I'll post it and maybe someone can brief me, or maybe i'm the first to have this problem.

I have timewarner cable, with a HD reciever.

I've noticed that sometimes the channels in 1080i become really dark and faded out, and this is noticable on the OSD(cable channel info bar) as well. if I switch to a 720p channel, they appear to be normal.

a soft shut off/restart doesn't fix this problem. I even tried restarting the receiver. a hard shut off/restart solves this, but this has happened on several occasions already.

I have 3 more years in Circuit City warranty, but I don't want to deal with that right now because this is a minor problem. I just fear that it will get worse with time. I put less than 300 hours on the bulb/unit in a year.

has this happened before? if so, is it the unit? or cables? or receiver?

also sometimes, if I switch to an HD channel, it goes into 480p mode..this could be receiver issue.

any information is appreciated

that depends. is your projector still in warranty?! ;)

I purchased my original projector in Dec 04 with a 5 year extended warranty. As I upgraded to the 4805 just last year and was guaranteed by “IF” that the warranty would transfer over to the new projector, I should have one. As I have posted, I discovered I was out of warranty when I called “IF” to get my PJ repaired. I should have the warranty; however, due to “IF’s” deception, I don’t. Does that disqualify me from this discussion?
I apologize for using “criticize”, “question” would have been more accurate.


Sorry I couldn’t reply sooner, my modem died yesterday. It’s Comcastic!

well, then I'd say you too have an issue that needs to be resolved. proof of purchase on your warranty and any correspondance you have pertaining to your extended warranty and/or warranty transfer should make this a no-brainer. i sincerely wish you the best of luck and hope your issue gets resolved in a timely manner.

I don't think having a warantee or not means a damn thing when a unit is sent in for repair. If it's under warantee, they're fixing it for free becasue they have to. If it's out of warantee, they're fixing it for a price becasue they can. Having a unit for 5 months is inexcusable and should have been replaced out of good faith with either the same model or better.

Thanks. I agree it's a no-brainer; however, "IF" seems to think otherwise.

I have found one DIY 4805 ceiling mount looking at this thread. How many of them are out there? Any other DIY mounters care to share and show their expertise? It would be nice to see what kind of things have been done in the past and what I might be able to do in mounting my system..

Thanks!

MB

To all Infocus owners who have sent their 4805's in for warranty service. If it has been
4 to 6 weeks since you sent the projector in and you don't have it back, call the Infocus
customer service reps and have them check on the progress of the repair.

My 4805 was waiting for a new Color Wheel and since it was going to take an additional
4 to 6 weeks to get the part, Infocus sent me an exchange unit. I had to call to get this
ball rolling, Infocus did not offer me this deal on their own. So far the exchange unit is
working fine.
Note: I did not have to bitch or make a fuss to get this deal, just ask.

Note: I did not have to bitch or make a fuss to get this deal, just ask.

You shouldn't have to bitch or make a fuss or even have to call at all. If it's going to take that long, they should be calling you, the customer, and informing you of what is going on. I'd say that 80% of people are very understanding about delays so long as they know what is going on.

Also, you shouldn't have to ask for a replacement if it continues to take more time, it should be offered as a courtesy for you to either accept or deny, depending on how much faith you have in a different unit other than your own. Thing is, many people tend to vent their frustrations upon the CS rep who has nothing to do with the repair time, thus starting the defensive posturing on both sides.

I'm not accusing anyone here, just stating what I've seen from both sides of the issue. My recommendation to anyone that feels that they have been wronged by a company is to politely ask the CS rep to speak to their supervisor. If none is available, make certain to tell them politely that you are taking down their name. (Don't give a reason, though you are now making them personally accountable for doing whatever they can to remedy the issue.) If you can talk to the supervisor, great. If that supervisor does not resolve the matter, ask to speak with their superior, once again being polite and taking note of their name. Eventually, you end up with someone high enough up the ladder that is either so busy or important that it's easier to just issue you a new unit or a refund. Lastly, be absolutely certain that you are specific in what you want done within reason without just complaining and ranting.

I actually write down notes on what I'd like to say before I call on these things. I write notes on what happens before, during, and after the conversations(s) as well. The main thing to remember is to treat each person as though they don't know what is going on, because 95% of the time they don't, and are just as frustrated as you are.

That being said, if anyone ever gets the direct phone line (I don't do emails on these matters) and name of the person at the top of the IF food chain, it would be invaluable to post it here and make it part of a sticky for the beginning of the thread or somewhre else highly visible.

My point is simply this, call Infocus. Don't wait for them to call you!

Most Consumer Audio/Video Service Techs are overworked and very poorly paid.
I used to work in the Audio Business as a Factory Service Tech and there was no way
we had the time to call the customer and keep them informed as to the status of their
unit. The customer service people were supposed to do that.

I don't envy the spot Infocus is in. My experience in the service field suggests to me
that Infocus may be overloaded with defective units and their small service staff cant
keep up with the demand. They are also having parts delays from China. This could
explain the long wait for repairs and was one of the reasons why they gave me an
exchange unit.

As for the Infocus customer service reps, they were very polite and helpful to me. Except
for the 30 days without my projector, my treatment by Infocus was very positive.
I hope they can dig themselves out of this mess and stay in business.

The tech guy I spoke to said that they would never bother to do that.: they would just replace the whole light engine instead.

SW - They never told you what they did, then?

After reading all these other posts, I'm not sure what to do. What would you do if you were me? (Owner of a 4805 with a light tube problem - about 10-15 pixels on the right) Keep the 4805 bulb and get a new machine? Or buy another projector altogether? And if so - WHICH ONE!

I’m looking at the Samsung SP-H710AE. Check it out @ http://www.samsung.com/Products/ProAV/HomeTheaterProjectors/SPH710AEMXXAA.asp or read Jason’s review @ www.avscience.com/reviews.htm . It’s a bit more, but I think it’s a great upgrade.

I’m looking at the Samsung SP-H710AE. Check it out @ http://www.samsung.com/Products/ProAV/HomeTheaterProjectors/SPH710AEMXXAA.asp or read Jason’s review @ www.avscience.com/reviews.htm . It’s a bit more, but I think it’s a great upgrade.

Yeah it's a bit more! $3100 is a bit more than I want to spend on this. But I guess if I only spend $900 like I did on my infocus, then I get what I pay for.

I hate to bitch a moan, but my problem seems to be worse than I had first expected.

1080i mode is permanently dark/faded...even after hard shut down(over night!), 1080i looks like crap. any suggestions?

I'll go into circuit city tomorrow, se what they say.

I hate to bitch a moan, but my problem seems to be worse than I had first expected.

1080i mode is permanently dark/faded...even after hard shut down(over night!), 1080i looks like crap. any suggestions?

I'll go into circuit city tomorrow, se what they say.

Try using different cables.

After FIVE MONTHS of waiting for my wife's projector to be fixed, and TWO WEEKS after they said they were shipping a replacement, we still do not have her projector back. As of today, they promised [yeah right!] to send me a tracking number when they ship the replacement which they "think" will be this week.Well, for the first time in FIVE MONTHS, InFocus did what they promised: I just received a UPS tracking number for a replacement projector which they shipped yesterday!

No response to my email to the new VP Sales yet. Still not holding my breath.

right on, too bad they didn't give you an in72. :(

yeah, doubt you'll hear from the vp. maybe you could find the presidents email and forward your last message on to him. at this point, why not.

Glad to hear of your progress cavu. I got contacted by an “IF” CSR who is also a member of this forum. In respect of his anonymity and because there’s at least two aliases I won’t give out his handle or address; however, I will post a few suggestions I made.

In the future I'd like to recommend "IF" focuses more on customer service. From what I've read and my own experiences; it's obvious that the 4800 series is obsolete, so why not offer those owners an upgrade with some incentive. (Perhaps a free extended warranty, or a free lamp, or some incentive that will encourage a better since of customer loyalty.) Now I think of it: one way to immediately improve your image is to ship out loaner PJs the second your customers request repairs. Come out in the open on the forum and create an "IF" CSR for the forum so you and your team can spearhead any concerns directly. If we have a problem, we will know who to contact. This will also help quell rumors and might even help advertising if you release a new product.

In the future I'd like to recommend "IF" focuses more on customer service. From what I've read and my own experiences; it's obvious that the 4800 series is obsolete, so why not offer those owners an upgrade with some incentive. (Perhaps a free extended warranty, or a free lamp, or some incentive that will encourage a better since of customer loyalty.) Now I think of it: one way to immediately improve your image is to ship out loaner PJs the second your customers request repairs. Come out in the open on the forum and create an "IF" CSR for the forum so you and your team can spearhead any concerns directly. If we have a problem, we will know who to contact. This will also help quell rumors and might even help advertising if you release a new product.

Infocus has done this for people with the x1/4800 problems, offering a 4805 replacement. I'm guessing as soon as they run out of 4805 replacements, they'll probably offer IN72 as a replacement for 4805 problem users.

Doubtful, Ja Phule. If you take the following into consideration from their website and cavu's experience, it sounds like they want you to pay for that kind of program.

From here: http://store.infocus.com/escalate/store/DisplayVisitor?pls=infocus&page=CON_AboutProjectors&loginPage=CON_AboutProjectors

"InFocus is dedicated to developing and manufacturing high-quality projectors and accessories. As evidence of our commitment to quality, most InFocus and Proxima projectors come standard with a two-year limited warranty on parts and labor. Additional service programs are available for purchase:

Spare in the Air: If something should happen to your projector that requires servicing, InFocus will send you a comparable loaner for you to use while your projector is being repaired.

ProXchange: In the case that your projector requires servicing, InFocus will send you a like-new replacement projector, equal or comparable to your original projector, for you to keep.

The sad thing is that my old POS Epson S1 offered free transferable replacement service for 3 years, and they would deliver it to you within 24 hours! All you needed was the personal rep ID # on the unit itself and they would bring you a new unit right to your door. How it worked: You call in with an issue, they take your cc # down, someone brings you a replacement unit, takes your bad unit back to repair center, if no abuse of PJ is found they don't charge you a cent. That's it. No calling, no waiting, no shipping, nada. Unless you've abused the PJ, no worries at all.

I tried to get a loaner before I got the 4805 and they refused straight away. Sounds like “IF” should look at Epson’s business model.

well, in case they(InFocus) are reading.....after all the fuss and hubub here on the forums about the customer service, I am unlikely to purchase another InFocus projector.

I just hope that I don't have to deal with InFocus as my extended warranty should be with Circuit City, and not InFocus

SW - They never told you what they did, then?They told me that they "adjusted" it and replaced the software. What they adjusted is a mystery, and all software seems to be identical to what I already had.

I have found one DIY 4805 ceiling mount looking at this thread. How many of them are out there? Any other DIY mounters care to share and show their expertise? It would be nice to see what kind of things have been done in the past and what I might be able to do in mounting my system..

Thanks!

MB
The one I think is the easiest to build is by "monkey_man". If you search for posts by this guy, you'll find it. (The posts aren't in this forum -- I forget where they are).

Here's my version. (http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphoto.php/photo/16473/cat/500/ppuser/7509139) Also, click on my signature below for another picture.

FYI, after I took these pictures, I bought a ball-swivel type of mount on ebay. It was extremely cheap, and it works great. It was actually cheaper than the cost of creating the monkey_man mount.

-Dan

to test for an edid issue, you'll need a short dvi cable

the problem is not with the signal getting to the projector, the problem is with the projector telling the pc what it is, "hey, it's me over here, mr. 4805! connect to me digitally please!" that's what EDID is. this signal can deteriorate over long runs and once the pc loses the edid info, it doesn't see it the same way anymore. something about reinstalling the drivers works for me. i don't exactly understand why, but it does. i've been too cheap to buy a dvi detective and have been hoping for a software fix. they dvi detective is abouty $70.

Well I had a chance to do some further testing today even without the short DVI cable and here are my results. I "borrowed" a friends digital LCD monitor for the tests. I connected the monitor to my pc's 2nd DVI output with a DVI-D 6ft cable. Everything worked as it should; EDID info was sent to the PC correctly. I then installed a 12ft extension for a total of 18ft DVI-D cable between monitor and pc. Again, everything worked correctly. With both monitors working, I unplugged the digital monitor and plugged in the projector, viola! However, if I go back into NVidia's control panel, the projector goes blank and is not detected as being connected.

What I gather from this is when I plugged in the LCD monitor, it told the PC "hey, send me a digital signal". Everything was working and the PC sent the LCD a digital signal. When I unplugged the LCD and plugged in the 4805, the computer still sent the digital signal to the projector because the computer has not refreshed its monitor connections. This confirms that at some point in the connection, EDID information isn't not getting passed to the PC.

So now I know

1 - The PC's video card and software are functioning correctly
2 - The projector is able to accept a DVI-D input however still have not determined if the PJ is outputting EDID info. I will find this out when the new and shorter cable arrive. If, after installing the new cable EDID info still doesn't work, I can send the PJ in for repairs. If it does, then I know my current cable is to blame.

Am I correct with my assumptions and analysis or am I off a bit?

Thanks again

It would be nice to see what kind of things have been doneThere is an excellent, all-metal mount available on eBay from "Mighty Mounts" sold by kokkoman for $20. I have used a couple dozen of these with great success. For the price it's hardly worth trying to create your own! See the attached image.

I looked those over hard before I went ahead and designed and built my own. At $20 I was ready to jump all over it. At $40, which appears to be what they *actually* cost after $20!!!! shipping, no thanks.

I know why people do that on EBay, but for me anyway, it is a guaranteed lost sale. I *will not* pay those ridiculous "shipping" prices which in reality are just a way for the sellers to sidestep Ebay, admittedly, outrageous "vigs".

Never the less, charging $20 to ship something that could be sent for $5 just pisses me off.

That said, it looks like he may be trying to unload a dozen or so at a reduced price right now on EBay. I believe he makes a good mount, but not for $20 shipping.

I've tried to score where the universal joints like the ones he is using are sourced from. It's like trying to discover the formula for Coca-Cola.

$20 shipping or not, I gotta say a pleasant looking and great quality mount like he has can hardly be made by everyone here for 40 bucks. I got a "T" one from him and everything lined up perfectly, was very light and strong and was an excellent buy. Fast shipping too.

I would have a problem if a big greedy corporation did the jack up on the shipping thing (which many do even though they have great rates with couriers), but for the little guy on eBay, I have no problem with his price point and shipping pricing to get around the greedy eBay.

I agree, comparative wise, $40 total is acceptable and if he had it priced at $35 + $5 shipping, or even $30 + $10, I would already be using one.

Doesn't make much sense, I know, cause I am usually a bottom line kind of guy, but the EBay shipping thing, I dunno, just gets me.

I know when we dropped the shipping charge (built it into the product price) on one of our web stores, sales increased by 60%. Free or low cost shipping is something many online shoppers want.

Based on past experience, assuming the universal is perhaps $10, I'd estimate his parts cost to be $15, so $40 total is not unreasonable for a sturdy looking mount like that.

Well guys, more "bad" news. Waaayyyy back on post #2528, I listed the link to the IF 3-year bulb warantee. That's not available anymore, just the 1-year one. Oh well. :(

$40 total is acceptable and if he had it priced at $35 + $5 shipping, or even $30 + $10, I would already be using one.Well, you lost me somewhere!

What if it was $1+$39 shipping??

What the heck difference does it make?

You've got a $1000+ projector and you're hanging it from 2x4's because you don't like the way the bill is itemized for a mount you agree is worth the $40 total cost??!! :confused:

I listed the link to the IF 3-year bulb warantee. That's not available anymore, just the 1-year one.I wrote to Bob Williams about that back on April 6 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7442647&&#post7442647) and he responded the same day (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7444656&&#post7444656).

He then confirmed (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7449010&&#post7449010) that InFocus would honour any of the warranties still inventoried in the retail channel.

Provantage (http://www.provantage.com/infocus-elw3~7INFB082.htm) and others (http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=elw3+infocus&btnG=Search) still show some in inventory at very attractive prices!!

Well I had a chance to do some further testing today even without the short DVI cable and here are my results. I "borrowed" a friends digital LCD monitor for the tests. I connected the monitor to my pc's 2nd DVI output with a DVI-D 6ft cable. Everything worked as it should; EDID info was sent to the PC correctly. I then installed a 12ft extension for a total of 18ft DVI-D cable between monitor and pc. Again, everything worked correctly. With both monitors working, I unplugged the digital monitor and plugged in the projector, viola! However, if I go back into NVidia's control panel, the projector goes blank and is not detected as being connected.

What I gather from this is when I plugged in the LCD monitor, it told the PC "hey, send me a digital signal". Everything was working and the PC sent the LCD a digital signal. When I unplugged the LCD and plugged in the 4805, the computer still sent the digital signal to the projector because the computer has not refreshed its monitor connections. This confirms that at some point in the connection, EDID information isn't not getting passed to the PC.

So now I know

1 - The PC's video card and software are functioning correctly
2 - The projector is able to accept a DVI-D input however still have not determined if the PJ is outputting EDID info. I will find this out when the new and shorter cable arrive. If, after installing the new cable EDID info still doesn't work, I can send the PJ in for repairs. If it does, then I know my current cable is to blame.

Am I correct with my assumptions and analysis or am I off a bit?

Thanks again

Its proabbly not your cable I spend over 100 dolloar on 3 seperate cable and a adapater and turn out it was just the projector. There you go = )

kind of sad, i thought about returing to costco but oh well ended up spending another and sending in.

I wrote to Bob Williams about that back on April 6 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7442647&&#post7442647) and he responded the same day (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7444656&&#post7444656).

He then confirmed (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7449010&&#post7449010) that InFocus would honour any of the warranties still inventoried in the retail channel.

Provantage (http://www.provantage.com/infocus-elw3~7INFB082.htm) and others (http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=elw3+infocus&btnG=Search) still show some in inventory at very attractive prices!!

This all makes me a bit nervous. I find it highly doubtful that any of these sites that are selling these are going to check with you to see that your original 90 day warantee hasn't expired. So, if you've had your lamp for more than 90 days and give them your money, you're essentially just throwing it away. I also notice that none of these sites so much as even mention that the original warantee must still be valid like IF does:

"This Extended Lamp Warranty is subject to all limitations and exclusions set forth in the limited warranty statement for the associated product. For a copy of the limited warranty statement, please refer to your product’s User Guide. To be eligible for extended warranty coverage, the lamp’s original factory warranty must be valid."

http://www.infocus.com/service/service_offerings/americas.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&prog=lamp

So, I wonder, is IF going to honor the warantee of some poor guy that buys a ELW3/ELW2 from one of these sites more than 90 days after he's bought his PJ/lamp?

Lastly, cavu, the Provantage link won't work for me, but I think their site is down for the weekend since I couldn't access it any other way either.

4805 was on my short list to jump in PJ world....but last few days of post have me 2nd guessing IF. Are there that many problems w/ "budget" IF projectors?

I certainly wouldn't be afraid of IF. They have many, many years of FP experience. Sure they some internal issues, but what corporation doesn't.

I'd buy another 4805 in a heartbeat. Such bang for the buck.

Well, you lost me somewhere!

What if it was $1+$39 shipping??

What the heck difference does it make?

You've got a $1000+ projector and you're hanging it from 2x4's because you don't like the way the bill is itemized for a mount you agree is worth the $40 total cost??!! :confused:
I couldn't agree more. The ceiling mount I bought last year on ebay was $9, plus $18.95 shipping. I initially thought it was strange, but then I decided the total was just fine, so I bought it. It works perfectly, and is very well designed.

I bought this to replace the monkey_man mount I built myself. The mount I built was fine, but I wanted one that had a ball-joint swivel, and I never fould figure out how to make one. (It looks a lot better, too.)

In case anyone wonders, the reason I wanted the ball-joint swivel was because I can slide my PJ forward and backwards (see my signature), and I wanted to adjust the angle of the PJ depending on where I moved it to. I need to post new pictures one of these days... :rolleyes: EDIT: I finally got off my butt and posted a couple of new pictures.

-Dan

Well I had a chance to do some further testing today even without the short DVI cable and here are my results. I "borrowed" a friends digital LCD monitor for the tests. I connected the monitor to my pc's 2nd DVI output with a DVI-D 6ft cable. Everything worked as it should; EDID info was sent to the PC correctly. I then installed a 12ft extension for a total of 18ft DVI-D cable between monitor and pc. Again, everything worked correctly. With both monitors working, I unplugged the digital monitor and plugged in the projector, viola! However, if I go back into NVidia's control panel, the projector goes blank and is not detected as being connected.

What I gather from this is when I plugged in the LCD monitor, it told the PC "hey, send me a digital signal". Everything was working and the PC sent the LCD a digital signal. When I unplugged the LCD and plugged in the 4805, the computer still sent the digital signal to the projector because the computer has not refreshed its monitor connections. This confirms that at some point in the connection, EDID information isn't not getting passed to the PC.

So now I know

1 - The PC's video card and software are functioning correctly
2 - The projector is able to accept a DVI-D input however still have not determined if the PJ is outputting EDID info. I will find this out when the new and shorter cable arrive. If, after installing the new cable EDID info still doesn't work, I can send the PJ in for repairs. If it does, then I know my current cable is to blame.

Am I correct with my assumptions and analysis or am I off a bit?

Thanks again

I had the exact problem with my SP4805. Projector failed to syc with HTPC-with GeForce 6600GT. Tried rolling back video drivers. Tried a brand-new 15ft M1-DVI from monoprice. Nothing made any difference. I was able to get sync with projector and HTPC via the M1-VGA cable, but as Ja Phule pointed out it's best with digital via DVI. Since it was the weekend, I e-mailed a request to Infocus for RMA at
http://www.infocus.com/service/contact_support/request/request.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&

Got an e-mail reply from Infocus suggesting a shorter cable. Borrowed a 6ft M1-DVI-still no change. I then called Tech support direct and rehashed the problem and they finally were satisfied I had a problem with the SP4805, and issued an RMA. Sent the SP4805 off to Infocus Factory Repair. Tens days later I got it back and the M1-DVI worked perfectly. Infocus replaced a circuit board. That problem was solved but a new problem was immediately noticed. The image thru component was too pink. So after more discussion with Tech support, and the fine support from Ja Phule and others here, I sent it back again. I must complement Infocus on customer returns. They provided full instructions on where to find nearest UPS store and included a pre-paid lable. The box they returned my repaired pj in provided very good protection from shipping abuse.

Good luck'
sgibson

I had the exact problem with my SP4805. Projector failed to syc with HTPC-with GeForce 6600GT. Tried rolling back video drivers. Tried a brand-new 15ft M1-DVI from monoprice. Nothing made any difference. I was able to get sync with projector and HTPC via the M1-VGA cable, but as Ja Phule pointed out it's best with digital via DVI. Since it was the weekend, I e-mailed a request to Infocus for RMA at
http://www.infocus.com/service/contact_support/request/request.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&

Got an e-mail reply from Infocus suggesting a shorter cable. Borrowed a 6ft M1-DVI-still no change. I then called Tech support direct and rehashed the problem and they finally were satisfied I had a problem with the SP4805, and issued an RMA. Sent the SP4805 off to Infocus Factory Repair. Tens days later I got it back and the M1-DVI worked perfectly. Infocus replaced a circuit board. That problem was solved but a new problem was immediately noticed. The image thru component was too pink. So after more discussion with Tech support, and the fine support from Ja Phule and others here, I sent it back again. I must complement Infocus on customer returns. They provided full instructions on where to find nearest UPS store and included a pre-paid lable. The box they returned my repaired pj in provided very good protection from shipping abuse.

Good luck'
sgibson

They sent you a prepaid lable? I had to pay for mine!!!

For those who want to make ball swivel mounts

Many of the ones on ebay are based off this

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=2684088

They have 2 packs for about $8 also.

This will get you past the ball joint problem, them just get a mounting plate of some kind.

I still think the $40 on ebay isn't a bad price for an all done mount, but if you are handy you can get the 2 pack for less than $10 and have 2 chances to get it right.

Unfortunately, the universal one I bought isn't being sold on the Bay anymore. It was $32 total, had no plastic pieces at all, included an adjustable extension bar, could be configured to any 3/4 screw setup, and is superbly built. I went with that one in case I wanted to upgrade soon I'm not left with a mount that's married to the PJ. Just a thought.

I had the exact problem with my SP4805. Projector failed to syc with HTPC-with GeForce 6600GT. Tried rolling back video drivers. Tried a brand-new 15ft M1-DVI from monoprice. Nothing made any difference. I was able to get sync with projector and HTPC via the M1-VGA cable, but as Ja Phule pointed out it's best with digital via DVI. Since it was the weekend, I e-mailed a request to Infocus for RMA at
http://www.infocus.com/service/contact_support/request/request.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&

Got an e-mail reply from Infocus suggesting a shorter cable. Borrowed a 6ft M1-DVI-still no change. I then called Tech support direct and rehashed the problem and they finally were satisfied I had a problem with the SP4805, and issued an RMA. Sent the SP4805 off to Infocus Factory Repair. Tens days later I got it back and the M1-DVI worked perfectly. Infocus replaced a circuit board. That problem was solved but a new problem was immediately noticed. The image thru component was too pink. So after more discussion with Tech support, and the fine support from Ja Phule and others here, I sent it back again. I must complement Infocus on customer returns. They provided full instructions on where to find nearest UPS store and included a pre-paid lable. The box they returned my repaired pj in provided very good protection from shipping abuse.

Good luck'
sgibson
Thanks for the reply Gibson. I am pretty sure that it won't be the cable and that the projector is at fault from what I have seen so far. I will see when the 6ft cable comes in and then most likely off to IF. I'll keep the forum updated.

Devedander "...They sent you a prepaid lable? I had to pay for mine!!!"

I paid for the first ship to Infocus Factory Repair. Others here said they were provided pre-paid "repaired returns" as well.

regards,
sgibson

I'm having a strange vertical jitter when my source is set to 1080i, making it unwatchable. My f/w version is 1.3.2. Is anyone else having the same issue?

I'm having a strange vertical jitter when my source is set to 1080i, making it unwatchable. My f/w version is 1.3.2. Is anyone else having the same issue?

What source are you using? 1080i from my HDTV cable box does not jitter, but if I use 1080i from my Oppo dvd player, I get some jittering, but it is a known bug with the Oppo.

What source are you using? 1080i from my HDTV cable box does not jitter, but if I use 1080i from my Oppo dvd player, I get some jittering, but it is a known bug with the Oppo.

I'm have a Motorola 6412 Phase 3 HDTV STB and a Toshiba HD-XA1 HD DVD player. The best way to describe the issue is that the picture looks like that of an interlaced SDTV, with the progressive filter not working properly. In 480i, I have no problem. I've played with the phase and tracking settings, and also tried both component and HDMI/M1.

The reason I want the 1080i to work better is that the HD XA1 scaling of 1080i is miles better than the 720p output.

My 4805 has 2300 hours on it, and it made grinding noises last night when I turned it on. It disappeared after I switched to high mode for a few minutes. I know this is a fairly common problem, and that it's most likely the color wheel, but do I have to have it fixed, or can I use the projector as normal?

I'm asking because I don't know if I want to put more money into it, and I'm pretty sure that the grinding wont occur very often.


I have no warranty, and I'm gonna upgrade to a 720P in early fall, so I hope my trusty 4805 will stay alive until then.

I think you know the answer. :(

When I checked a few months ago, a colorwheel change out was running about $400

Since you are upgrading soon anyway, IMO it would be silly to sink money in a machine which has been discontinued, particularly almost ½ of what they are selling for new now.

We all love our 4805's, so I say use it until the noise gets too bad to stand or it stops working. You could always peddle it on Ebay, but if it has the original lamp, it is probably not worth a lot.

One thing that has always irked me about the CW bearings. Think about how insanely cheap HD’s are these days. I have several Maxtor’s which were turned on 6 years ago and have ran continuously now for over 52,000 hours without a peep from the bearings.

Good luck and let's hope it keeps quite.

I'm have a Motorola 6412 Phase 3 HDTV STB and a Toshiba HD-XA1 HD DVD player. The best way to describe the issue is that the picture looks like that of an interlaced SDTV, with the progressive filter not working properly. In 480i, I have no problem. I've played with the phase and tracking settings, and also tried both component and HDMI/M1.

The reason I want the 1080i to work better is that the HD XA1 scaling of 1080i is miles better than the 720p output.

Doesn't sound good that it happens on the XA1 (as I was thinking of getting th A1 eventually). I'd try contacting infocus to see if they have any other suggestions.

My 4805 has 2300 hours on it, and it made grinding noises last night when I turned it on. It disappeared after I switched to high mode for a few minutes. I know this is a fairly common problem, and that it's most likely the color wheel, but do I have to have it fixed, or can I use the projector as normal?

I'm asking because I don't know if I want to put more money into it, and I'm pretty sure that the grinding wont occur very often.


I have no warranty, and I'm gonna upgrade to a 720P in early fall, so I hope my trusty 4805 will stay alive until then.

I've got 500 hours on mine and it does it once in a while. Once it reaches internal normal temps it quits. I'm surprised that it's just now starting for you.... mine started around 250 hours or so.

I'm working at putting my new theater together where I will mount my projector within a cabinet with a through of 16-17 feet and I have two questions before I purchase a screen.

1. What would be the best color for the screen white or grey.
2. What would be the best size - I was thinking 120" but after reading I think I need to be in the 96" range (16x9 aspect).

Thanks

tomrakers:
Ouch, that's expensive. Using $400 on it is not an option for me. I'll keep it for now, and hopefully it'll last until it's time to buy a new projector.

The 4805 is indeed beloved, and it's given me a lot of great movie experiences for a nice price. Fan noise is the only negative aspect, in my opinion. And now, of course, I need HD-resolution. My Xbox 360 games look great, but I know a native 720P projector will do a better job.

The IN76 could be my next projector, but I'll have to consider the fan noise, which seems to be a weak point.

Thanks for the info.

nate358:
I'm glad to hear that it goes away after reaching normal temperature. I wonder if this is a software or a mechanical issue. If you have warranty, you should contact Infocus and hear if they can change the color wheel.

Wow, this is one of the largest threads I have ever seen. I used to have a membership here but that was a while ago. Anyways, to my problem, if anyone could help that would be great.

I was watching a movie on it the other night and working on my laptop. When I looked up I notced the video wasnt on. so I got up to investigate. When I turn it on the light is solid green and all the fans turn on and its usual beep. Then after ten seconds the green light starts blinnking and something turns off. Then in 10 second intervals it turns on and off no beep or anything,

One thing that has always irked me about the CW bearings....I have several Maxtor’s which were turned on 6 years ago and have ran continuously now for over 52,000 hours without a peep from the bearings.Duh. So don't turn the projector off! Let it run continuously - you know its easier on the machine!!

Sometimes the grinding noise disappears after a few times, sometimes it's a big problem. I had it for a day or two about a year and a half back. Two days ago it started again. If it isn't gone soon, I'll send it in while there's a few weeks left on my warranty. Uh oh, I better check that out tonight before I miss the deadline, it's somewhere near two years now..

Edit: Whew! I've got about six weeks left.

I thought the grinding color wheel noise just meant that a small speck of dust had gotten in there and that it needed to be cleaned. Am I wrong on this?

So, what's the best DVD player for the 4805? Just got mine and it came with the dvi cable for it, so going to buy a new dvd player. I'd like to run a native 1:1 on the projector, so I know it's got to be amond Vinc Bravo, Momitsu, etc...

Anyone have a consensus on which ones is best?

I'd like to run a native 1:1 on the projector, so I know it's got to be amond Vinc Bravo, Momitsu, etc.Unfortunately, there is no "etc." !

The Bravo and Momitsu units are almost all there is.

Both use the same Sigma chipset and have almost identical performance.

An option may be the SnaZio 13xx series which provides a limited number of pixel-mapped resolutions: 640x480, 800x600, 1024x768, 852x480

The new Oppo OPDV970H might be worth looking at. It won't do 1:1 pixel mapping, but it will put out a 480i over HDMI...... wouldn't that then use the Faroudja chip in the 4805, which the new Oppo is lacking? It would be hard to beat the Bravo D1 and 4805 combo, but it would be interesting to see how it compares.

The new Oppo OPDV970H will put out a 480i over HDMI...... wouldn't that then use the Faroudja chip in the 4805?No. The 4805 will not do 480i over HDMI/DVI.

The new Oppo OPDV970H might be worth looking at. It won't do 1:1 pixel mapping, but it will put out a 480i over HDMI...... wouldn't that then use the Faroudja chip in the 4805, which the new Oppo is lacking? It would be hard to beat the Bravo D1 and 4805 combo, but it would be interesting to see how it compares.

HDMI/DVI bypasses the processor in the 4805 so what you send it is what you get!!!

Unfortunately, there is no "etc." !

The Bravo and Momitsu units are almost all there is.

Both use the same Sigma chipset and have almost identical performance.

An option may be the SnaZio 13xx series which provides a limited number of pixel-mapped resolutions: 640x480, 800x600, 1024x768, 852x480


Thanks for the info on the Snazio! I'll look into it as well. Any specific model numbers on the momitsu and Bravo to look for?

I definitely want 1:1 pixel mapping...I've heard that's the best picture I'll get on my 4805.

Thanks!
Josh

Any specific model numbers on the momitsu and Bravo to look for?The Bravo D1 (black) is the most popular; see this thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=660701) for details of a necessary power supply mod and SP4805 specific discussion. The D2 (silver) is an equal performer but, while it does not need the PS mod, it is not suitable for long DVI cable runs (ie. ~> 20ft).

Moux can speak to the Momitsu ... there are several versions of their 880 series.

Wow, this is one of the largest threads I have ever seen. I used to have a membership here but that was a while ago. Anyways, to my problem, if anyone could help that would be great.

I was watching a movie on it the other night and working on my laptop. When I looked up I notced the video wasnt on. so I got up to investigate. When I turn it on the light is solid green and all the fans turn on and its usual beep. Then after ten seconds the green light starts blinnking and something turns off. Then in 10 second intervals it turns on and off no beep or anything,


Anyone have any ideas please?

Anyone have any ideas please?

Sounds like it is trying to start-up and not initializing. try unplugging the unit from the wall for 15 min or so. I have had this happen once and that worked for me. I assumed that inplugging it allowed it to reset itself. That's about the only suggestion have. If that is not the issue better call cust. support and ask them.

I still love my 4805 and have no issues after 550 hrs.
(and I have a brand new spare bulb I purchased from a member of this forum 2 months ago, so not worried about bulb life now) :D
This has been the best video investment since my 61" HD ready Toshiba purchased 7+ years ago and still working perfectly. And my Yammy 5990 used as my HDMI/Component/Composite switching source coupled with great sounds, well all I can say is WOW I love my HT room. :

The help and knowledge of the senior members here is great. I am sorry to hear some of you are having IF customer service problems, I believe that IF makes some of the best PJ's in the world at reasonable prices. (Excellent ROI anyway so far with me)

My only complaint is when family and friends are over they take MY HT seating and leave me on the couch on the side of the room. :(

Some observations using 4805:
1. I would not connect cable inputs (especially DVD-D/M1 or HDMI with sources powered on) I do not treat my 4805 like a PC plugging cables in when equipment is powered on. I baby it and treat it with kid gloves. I can repair a PC cheaper than I can a projector.
2. When I cleaned the filter and re-assembled I tightened the screws to tight and all kinds of grinding fan noise appeared. I backed off the screws until they were loose and gave them a half turn. Never ever heard another noise again and do not want to. :)
3. Image seemed to be out of focus so I thought it about time 7 months to clean the lens. Looked at some of the lens posts here for cleaning fluids, but while at Costco eye wear department they were selling 2 bottles of eye glass lens solvent and two applicator rags for less than 6 bucks with a lifetime supply of cleaning fluid re-fills. Works great and really improved my image.

I have been unable to post for some time due to cookies or browser problems. I am still working on uploading pics of my almost finished HT room and will try and resolve my issues with this site..

Well for those who have been reading my previous posts regarding EDID information via the DVI-D cable, read this.

1 - Got the shorter cable as suggested and still nothing so it is obviously the projector.

2 - Called up Infocus and talked with the Technical Dept Manager. I will keep him anonymous so he doesn't get bombarded with phone calls. I mentioned to him all the problems I've had and that I'm also receiving color wheel grinding.

His Response: "Since you are having so many problems, we will just do a warranty exchange for a new unit"

Yes I realize this is what they are supposed to do but for all of you that might have had a bad experience with Infocus, there are happy endings. Infocus is a company and it is 10x cheaper to retain customers than find new ones and I'm sure they realize this. Especially for electronics which is almost as brand loyal as the automotive industry.

Well at 2600+ hours on my original bulb I decided I better replace it and use the original as a backup. I received and installed it yesterday, anticipating a noticable brightness increase. It wasn't there! If there's a difference there it's so small that it could be my imagination.

I'm not unhappy, just surprised. I thought the picture was great before the new bulb, and it still is. How can I complain? :)

Well at 2600+ hours on my original bulb I decided I better replace it and use the original as a backup. I received and installed it yesterday, anticipating a noticable brightness increase. It wasn't there! If there's a difference there it's so small that it could be my imagination.

I'm not unhappy, just surprised. I thought the picture was great before the new bulb, and it still is. How can I complain? :)

maybe it's time to clean the color wheel ;)

Anyone have any ideas please?

Sounds like you need a new lamp:(. I went through this a few months back. When you hear it try and start up again it is trying to strike the lamp. After so many tries it will stop. The back of the user manual explains what error the flashing light sequence means. I was able to confirm my lamp failure with a friends lamp. I only had 500-600 hrs on that lamp but it was a refurb unit and no way to tell the hours for sure.

G

Does the SP4805 display the Nightmare before Christmas better than the X1 did? I tried using both a Toshiba and Philips player to watch the film and tried all sorts of different display setting combos on both the PJ and the DVD players. I think I ended up using 4:3 on either the display or source and 16:9 on the other but I ended up with a weird white line on top of the screen. I know Nightmare before X-mas had a weird aspect ratio, like 1:1.66 so maybe th X1 just could relsove it properly. Or perhaps it just a problem with my X-1 and the combo of DVD players I used?? I have never experienced that problem with any other DVD.

Well I'm hoping it works out better on the SP4805 since its one of my Favorite films. I watched it on a 32" Sharp aqous 32d4ou and it was glorious. People say the 4805 has better blacks than the X1, so a movie that dark can only benefit. Anyone watch this mobie on their PJ??

Best regards,
D-Nez

Well for those who have been reading my previous posts regarding EDID information via the DVI-D cable, read this.

1 - Got the shorter cable as suggested and still nothing so it is obviously the projector.

2 - Called up Infocus and talked with the Technical Dept Manager. I will keep him anonymous so he doesn't get bombarded with phone calls. I mentioned to him all the problems I've had and that I'm also receiving color wheel grinding.

His Response: "Since you are having so many problems, we will just do a warranty exchange for a new unit"

Yes I realize this is what they are supposed to do but for all of you that might have had a bad experience with Infocus, there are happy endings. Infocus is a company and it is 10x cheaper to retain customers than find new ones and I'm sure they realize this. Especially for electronics which is almost as brand loyal as the automotive industry.


Hey bsball 115,

Glad your story had a happy ending. I got a call from an Infocus Repair Tech yesterday, and he informed me that my SP4805 component input showed a normal image...not the pink image that I complained of. Link here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7716140#post7716140

He also said that Infocus SP4805 Component image specs are based on a cable not longer then 6 feet. I can't dispute what he is seeing on his end, but I said "what if it still shows pink with a new 6ft or shorter component cable when I get it back?" He said to call him (gave me his full name and direct phone number) if that happens. My SP4805 is just a week shy of 1 year old. If it shows pink should I call the Tech back or ask for a "Manager"?

Regards,
sgibson

Hey bsball 115,

Glad your story had a happy ending. I got a call from an Infocus Repair Tech yesterday, and he informed me that my SP4805 component input showed a normal image...not the pink image that I complained of. Link here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7716140#post7716140

He also said that Infocus SP4805 Component image specs are based on a cable not longer then 6 feet. I can't dispute what he is seeing on his end, but I said "what if it still shows pink with a new 6ft or shorter component cable when I get it back?" He said to call him (gave me his full name and direct phone number) if that happens. My SP4805 is just a week shy of 1 year old. If it shows pink should I call the Tech back or ask for a "Manager"?

Regards,
sgibson
I don't care what length the "specs" are based on. I have a 35 foot component cable and it works great. I also used a 50 foot cable in the past and it was OK. I'm sure there are plenty of other people on this forum that use long cables. So if the problem is on your end (and it sounds like it might be), it's not the length of the cable. It's more likely related to the quality or integrity of the cable, or something with your source.

Just my opinion, by the way.

-Dan

I don't care what length the "specs" are based on. I have a 35 foot component cable and it works great. I also used a 50 foot cable in the past and it was OK. I'm sure there are plenty of other people on this forum that use long cables. So if the problem is on your end (and it sounds like it might be), it's not the length of the cable. It's more likely related to the quality or integrity of the cable, or something with your source.

Just my opinion, by the way.

-Dan

I have used 50' (not Monster :mad: .. I wont afford it :D ) without any issues. :p

I'm using these 50' component cables and they work just fine. Great price and they provide an excellent picture to my 4805. Colors are sharp, blacks are black, etc.

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=621261&CatId=450

I'm using these 50' component cables and they work just fine.Or even better - less than half that price! Check this great cable from Monoprice (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10241&cs_id=1024101&p_id=2181&seq=1&format=2&style=). Unbelievable customer service!

Anyone else getting a small white smudge only visible when the screen image is black?

The smudge is in the center near the top and it really looks like a white light reflection of some kind... It was not always there. I started it noticing it a few weeks ago.

I tried cleaning the lens with a microfiber cloth. But it is still there.

I have about 300 hours on my lamp.

oops typo, I only have about 100 hours on my lamp.

Anyone else getting a small white smudge only visible when the screen image is black?

The smudge is in the center near the top and it really looks like a white light reflection of some kind... It was not always there. I started it noticing it a few weeks ago.

I tried cleaning the lens with a microfiber cloth. But it is still there.

I have abour 300 hours on my lamp.


Is it round? If it looks like a round whitish fuzzy circle, that's a dust blob. I've got a couple too, but not bad enough to clean at this point.

If not, I'm not sure what it would be. I would not use a microfiber cloth on the lense. They can scratch/haze. Someone posted safe products for the lense with links a couple pages or so back, check those. . .

Wes

ps Is this something you can see when you're watching dvd's, etc? If not I'm not sure I would worry about it.

Anyone else getting a small white smudge only visible when the screen image is black?


See the dust blob removal guide posted by SuperGoop for info. The procedure may void your warranty.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=556431

Anyone else getting a small white smudge only visible when the screen image is black?

The smudge is in the center near the top and it really looks like a white light reflection of some kind... It was not always there. I started it noticing it a few weeks ago.

I tried cleaning the lens with a microfiber cloth. But it is still there.

I have about 300 hours on my lamp.

oops typo, I only have about 100 hours on my lamp.

Try cleaning the bulb filter and housing, mine disappeared after I cleaned that and the opening where it goes. It must have been some sort of reflection coming from there.

Kim Wipes. If they're good enough for $100,000 lab equipment, they're good enough for PJs. :)

This is what is happening......

DVD Recorder RCA DRC-8060n

I have approximately 200 commercial DVD's. Around 80% of them have a blue screen with audio for the main menu playing in the background. The screen flickers about three times then throws up a blue screen. The problem occurs with certain store bought/originals and can be reproduced.

All DVDs work fine through component. I can watch TV and Divx files properly via HDMI connection. I originally had a HDMI to DVI adapter passing the video to M1-a DVI cable. I thought it might be the conversion causing it so I purchased a straight HDMI to M1-a cable. I have flashed the firmware of the projector. Still has the same issue.

I am stuck. RCA claims HDCP compliance as well as Infocus. Infocus says the projector should report the fact it is receiving a non-HDCP signal and then go blue-screen.

Any help?

This is what is happening......

DVD Recorder RCA DRC-8060n

I have approximately 200 commercial DVD's. Around 80% of them have a blue screen with audio for the main menu playing in the background. The screen flickers about three times then throws up a blue screen. The problem occurs with certain store bought/originals and can be reproduced.

All DVDs work fine through component. I can watch TV and Divx files properly via HDMI connection. I originally had a HDMI to DVI adapter passing the video to M1-a DVI cable. I thought it might be the conversion causing it so I purchased a straight HDMI to M1-a cable. I have flashed the firmware of the projector. Still has the same issue.

I am stuck. RCA claims HDCP compliance as well as Infocus. Infocus says the projector should report the fact it is receiving a non-HDCP signal and then go blue-screen.

Any help?

Try turning on the 4805 first before the dvd player or vice verse.

Just picked up one of these at bestbuy for under $500, ive tried reading but its overwelming, are there any straight out tips I should know about?

are there any straight out tips I should know about?Near but yet so far!! ;)

Go to the 4805 FAQ (http://japhule.collinsreport.com/4805FAQ/html/index.html) listed in the signature of the message (from Ja Phule) immediately preceding your's!

It's a mite dated but the best there is!

Just picked up one of these at bestbuy for under $500, ive tried reading but its overwelming, are there any straight out tips I should know about?

Bestbuy doesn't have this listed on their site. Which store did you get it from?

Bestbuy doesn't have this listed on their site. Which store did you get it from?


Its on clearance for $699, go to bestbuy.com and go to the televisions and there is a coupon for 10% off clearance or 20% off open box TV's.

I got the last open box for $504 after the coupon, run run as fast as you can to best buy.

Uhhhh...20% of $700 is $140, making it $560. Am I missing something here or is this "Deal or no Deal" math going on?

Am I missing something here or is this "Deal or no Deal" math going on?The math works if you apply both "clearance" and "open box" discounts:


699*0.9*0.8=504

The math works if you apply both "clearance" and "open box" discounts:


699*0.9*0.8=504


Sorry, I made an assumption that I thought was common knowledge. All open box items at Worst Buy are already discounted 10%. Then you are getting an additional 20% with the coupon.

wffsoccergmail, you're new to the forum, so perhaps you aren't aware that AVS asks members to refrain from mentioning exact prices for items they sell as well. I'm not sure if the rule applies in this instance so it's an FYI. Good luck with the 4805, mine's been fun.

maybe it's time to clean the color wheel ;)
I cleaned the color wheel a couple of weeks before getting the new bulb.

:p

...there is a coupon for 10% off clearance or 20% off open box TV's.

"...or..."

Hence my confusion. Thanks for clearing that up.

wffsoccergmail, you're new to the forum, so perhaps you aren't aware that AVS asks members to refrain from mentioning exact prices for items they sell as well. I'm not sure if the rule applies in this instance so it's an FYI. Good luck with the 4805, mine's been fun.


I will fully comply with that in the future, but doesnt it seem weird that if there is a really good deal on a projector, that it would be nice to alert people?

If there is a really good deal on a projector, that it would be nice to alert people?That's why there is a forum called Great Found Deals (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=&f=122)!! ;)

]quoting wffsoccergmail: " it would be nice to alert people?"


That's true, but you wouldn't bring your own steak to a steak house, would you?
;)

This is what is happening......

DVD Recorder RCA DRC-8060n

I have approximately 200 commercial DVD's. Around 80% of them have a blue screen with audio for the main menu playing in the background. The screen flickers about three times then throws up a blue screen. The problem occurs with certain store bought/originals and can be reproduced.

All DVDs work fine through component. I can watch TV and Divx files properly via HDMI connection. I originally had a HDMI to DVI adapter passing the video to M1-a DVI cable. I thought it might be the conversion causing it so I purchased a straight HDMI to M1-a cable. I have flashed the firmware of the projector. Still has the same issue.

I am stuck. RCA claims HDCP compliance as well as Infocus. Infocus says the projector should report the fact it is receiving a non-HDCP signal and then go blue-screen.

Any help?


I tried what you said. No dice. I, however, ripped Van Wilder using DVD Shrink to a DVD-5. It plays just fine with a ripped copy (no copy protection present.)

Any ideas now? I also have another thing to report. On about 70% of the DVDs that throw the "flickering" blue screen..... If I hit DVD menu button, I can see the DVD selections menu (scenes, audio, etc.) When I hit play on the flick, it throws a flickering blue screen. How am I going to determine if the problem exists on projector or dvd recorder side?

Thanks....

Sorry, I made an assumption that I thought was common knowledge. All open box items at Worst Buy are already discounted 10%. Then you are getting an additional 20% with the coupon.

Thanks for the heads up. My friend got the last display (open box w/zero hrs) but the store here would not budge any further on the closeout price and would not honor the online coupons saying it was not really a TV. I even talked to the manager over the phone and asked them to scan the coupon, which they did but the computer would not take it. She still bought it since she couldn't find a better price anywhere else.

I've searched... and searched... honest!

What is the pixel / dot clock frequency of the SP4805? I can't seem to find it listed anywhere.

Would someone who has this hooked up to a 360 via component mind giving me there display setting as far as brightness/contrast etc. Ive done what I can, but its still looking to bight/washed out.

Thanks

Hmmm encounter some strange noise from my 4805.

I know how fan noise and color wheel noise sound like, and this noise is definitely not one of them. I am using in Low Power mode.

Description: Its sounds like it right comes off the power plug (not the 3-pin socket, i mean the other end where you slot onto your 4805) . The constant noise sounds like "flying housefly", like a constant "Zzzzzzzz.........." or "Electric Hum". This happens occasionally and is very loud and annoying when it comes; and when other times without the "Zzzzzz" sound, its just normal with abit of noise from the fan/color wheel.


Anyone encounter this before? is it a problem with the power plug? there a way to solve it?

hi i did enquire about this above problem before, and after 2 and a half months i can't even solve it. this even occurs after i sent it for servicing. i really don't know what to do.

can anyone give me advise on this.

I tried what you said. No dice. I, however, ripped Van Wilder using DVD Shrink to a DVD-5. It plays just fine with a ripped copy (no copy protection present.)

Any ideas now? I also have another thing to report. On about 70% of the DVDs that throw the "flickering" blue screen..... If I hit DVD menu button, I can see the DVD selections menu (scenes, audio, etc.) When I hit play on the flick, it throws a flickering blue screen. How am I going to determine if the problem exists on projector or dvd recorder side?

Thanks....

It still sounds like an HDCP issue. The HDCP handshake seems to be not working right, and the prob could either be the player or the 4805.

hi i did enquire about this above problem before, and after 2 and a half months i can't even solve it. this even occurs after i sent it for servicing. i really don't know what to do.

can anyone give me advise on this.

I'd try taking your 4805 to another location and test it on another power outlet, if you get the same issue everywhere in your home try a different home, as I think it may be an issue with power coming into your home.

can anyone give me advise on this.Did you turn the VOLUME down to "0" as I previously suggested??

On my 4805 on a flat tabletop, the bottom edge of the projected picture is flat and level, but the top of the image starts fine, then about 2/3rds across the screen gets shorter on the right side, colors and brightness are fine across the image it just seems like the top right side of my picture is shaved off. Is this a light tube problem or something else?

On my 4805 on a flat tabletop, the bottom edge of the projected picture is flat and level, but the top of the image starts fine, then about 2/3rds across the screen gets shorter on the right side, colors and brightness are fine across the image it just seems like the top right side of my picture is shaved off.We need more info: Are you sure that everything is in focus from corner to corner? Are you accounting for the projector's offset? Is keystone set at 50? Can you try projecting on something closer (and smaller) and see if it squares up?

It doesn't seem that it's the light tube problem. That's a fuzzy (not sharp or shaved) shadow that looks like cigarette burn.

It still sounds like an HDCP issue. The HDCP handshake seems to be not working right, and the prob could either be the player or the 4805.

hi can care to explain more on HDCP? how does it affect my problem?

BTW i am connecting via component.(my dvdp dun have dvi/hdmi, best is component)


Did you turn the VOLUME down to "0" as I previously suggested??

yes i did that long ago,but did not solve the problem :(


I'd try taking your 4805 to another location and test it on another power outlet, if you get the same issue everywhere in your home try a different home, as I think it may be an issue with power coming into your home.

yes i did tried with living room power(my proj in my room). i even change different type of power connection: 2m plug onto a 6m wound-up extension cable; 2m plug onto a 6m 4-way multi-adaptor; and direct plug into it. still the same problem lies...

hi can care to explain more on HDCP? how does it affect my problem?

BTW i am connecting via component.(my dvdp dun have dvi/hdmi, best is component)

yes i did tried with living room power(my proj in my room). i even change different type of power connection: 2m plug onto a 6m wound-up extension cable; 2m plug onto a 6m 4-way multi-adaptor; and direct plug into it. still the same problem lies...

HDCP isn't an issue for you (my response was to another user).

I'd still try taking your 4805 to a friend's house and see if the issue is still there. I had that weird buzz from the power supply whenever I had the 4805 connected to my battery backup while it is running on it's battery. I'm "guessing" it could be something to do with the power coming into the 4805 not being clean, but it's just a guess.

I'm "guessing" it could be something to do with the power coming into the 4805 not being clean, but it's just a guess.

So, can we use some soap and water on a metal scraper on the outlet to clean it? ;)

Just wanted to say thanks to eveyone here at AVSForum for all the info on this unit. I just picked one up and got a smokin' deal from my local BB. I am overwhelmed with the picture quality!

Now for some questions (it was inevitable, right)? Please correct me where I am wrong.

1) From what I've read, best quality picture = 1:1 pixel mapping. This can be done using:

a) HTPC (using powerstip) and TheaterTek(?)
b) Custom output on select DVD players.

I have a graphics card with DVI out (Radeon 9200 I believe) so I could possibly use that with Powerstrip. However, I only have 1 computer (upstairs), so I won't be able to do HTPC at the moment. I've read as much as I can on the 1:1 players and it sounds like that might be the way to go. Any that stand out from the crowd? Bravo, Snazio, Momitsu, or Zensonic? I'd really like a universal player that has SACD too and was considering the recently released Oppo DV-970HD. I emailed Oppo about 1:1 pixel mapping to the 4805 and here's they're response:

"The DV-970HD does not have custom resolution support. This is something we are investigating, but do not believe it is something obtainable in the current architecture.
You will likely want to use the HDMI output (HDMI to DVI-M1) for the best possible picture, though you can use the component output and utilize its 480p output."

Wouldn't the 2nd best picture be 480i over component and let the Faroudja deinterlace and scale? Why 480p?

2) Now I gotta find a screen. 92" diagonal is the most I can go (space constraints). Any suggestions? Wife says it has to be mounted on the ceiling and roll up (no trap door screens).

3) What settings are you using with your 4805 (contrast, brightness, etc)?

I'll attach some pictures of a movie from my 4805 later.

1. The Bravo is quite popular if you do fix. There's a separate thread on the Bravo and the 4805.

If you can't do a) or b) then your 3rd option is c) 480i to the 4805's Faroudja processor. I'm not sure how good the 970's 480i component output is, hopefully it is better than the 971's component output (though, I didn't see any significant issues when I tested it out). You do want to use 480i instead of 480p on the 970 because the 4805's Faroudja is better than the mediatek of the 970. The 971 uses Faroudja similar to the 4805. Oppo also has another universal player coming out that is the 971 with SACD and HDMI support. However, there is no release date as of yet.

2. The Da-Lite High Contrast CinemaVision (HCCV) and the Da-Lite High Contrast Matte White (HCMW) are popular here. I'm using the HCMW pulldown and it looks great. The HCCV has a sparkle to it that some people do not like, but it should be very similar to the HCMW. I don't see any sparkles with my HCMW.

3. Settings will vary between person to person, and source to source esp for analog devices. If you are using hdmi or dvi source, you should have your contrast/brightness at 50 with your gains/offsets at 58/28.5, assuming the dvi/hdmi source is at the correct studio level.

Please look over the FAQ in my signature for other useful (I hope) information.

Thanks for replying so quickly Ja Phule! Love this projector.

1. The Bravo is quite popular if you do fix. There's a separate thread on the Bravo and the 4805.

Saw the thread. The fix is replacing the faulty PS capacitor, correct? Is that the only fix? I thought there was some talk about replacing the loader too. What about the other players? Snazio looks interesting especially it's network capabilities and other features.

If you can't do a) or b) then your 3rd option is c) 480i to the 4805's Faroudja processor. I'm not sure how good the 970's 480i component output is, hopefully it is better than the 971's component output (though, I didn't see any significant issues when I tested it out). You do want to use 480i instead of 480p on the 970 because the 4805's Faroudja is better than the mediatek of the 970. The 971 uses Faroudja similar to the 4805. Oppo also has another universal player coming out that is the 971 with SACD and HDMI support. However, there is no release date as of yet.

Don't think I can wait for a newer 971 w/SACD and HDMI so I'm leaning toward the 970 if I can't get a Bravo or one of the others. I would be all over the Oppo if it had custom resolution outputs! I'm sure hundreds if not thousands of others would be too.

2. The Da-Lite High Contrast CinemaVision (HCCV) and the Da-Lite High Contrast Matte White (HCMW) are popular here. I'm using the HCMW pulldown and it looks great. The HCCV has a sparkle to it that some people do not like, but it should be very similar to the HCMW. I don't see any sparkles with my HCMW.

Thanks for the info! I'll check those out. Any input on newer, cheaper screens like RichVision, EluneVision, and Maxsuma?

3. Settings will vary between person to person, and source to source esp for analog devices. If you are using hdmi or dvi source, you should have your contrast/brightness at 50 with your gains/offsets at 58/28.5, assuming the dvi/hdmi source is at the correct studio level.

Understand the settings are subjective. Saw those settings for the HDMI source on your unofficial page. I was just wondering if there are settings I shouldn't go above/below for video input?

Please look over the FAQ in my signature for other useful (I hope) information.

Thanks for all your help Ja Phule. I've gone over your webpage about a dozen times. In fact, it was one of the major reasons why I took the pluge. So many positives for this projector that I couldn't pass it up at the price I got it.

Thanks for replying so quickly Ja Phule! Love this projector.

Saw the thread. The fix is replacing the faulty PS capacitor, correct? Is that the only fix? I thought there was some talk about replacing the loader too. What about the other players? Snazio looks interesting especially it's network capabilities and other features.


I used to be interested in the Zensonic, but it's a little too late for that player (esp at $400), I'd rather get an HD DVD player. Looking beyond pixel mapping players, I really like my networked media player, the modified xbox. The Oppo 971 is my primary dvd player though.

Thanks for the info! I'll check those out. Any input on newer, cheaper screens like RichVision, EluneVision, and Maxsuma?

Personally, I've never heard of them. If I was to get a new screen for cheap, I'd either build my own using HCMW material or consider something like the Da-Lite HiPower or Optoma Graywolf.

Understand the settings are subjective. Saw those settings for the HDMI source on your unofficial page. I was just wondering if there are settings I shouldn't go above/below for video input?
As long as you do proper calibration, you should be ok.

Thanks for the help Ja Phule. What's the ideal drop for a ceiling mount? I realize there is 12.51" vertical offset. I just want to hang it correctly to the screen without having to keystone (much). I guess I need to know how much drop there is on the screen too, correct?

Attached some pictures I took last night. S-Video from Philips DVP-642. No screen so the pictures are on a wall about 10' from PJ. Didn't pause the movie for these (in motion photo).

Here are 2 more screenshots. First one (4805_4) is in motion and the last one is paused. Really like the reds of this PJ.

Thanks for the help Ja Phule. What's the ideal drop for a ceiling mount? I realize there is 12.51" vertical offset. I just want to hang it correctly to the screen without having to keystone (much). I guess I need to know how much drop there is on the screen too, correct?

It's going to vary by set up of course. If you've got a 10' ceiling you're gong to want a longer drop vs an 8' ceiling, plus it also depends on how low you want to place your screen.

Whatever you do, you'd save yourself a lot of trouble getting your screen and projector lined up correctly by mounting the projector first, and then the screen.

The infamous quest for 1:1 pixel mapping...

I have two choices... 856 x 480 or 848 x 480

Which is the better choice for pixel mapping?

And why in the world did Infocus have to pick 854 (not divisable by 8)...