Please tell us which firmware you are using. Go into the About menu and look at the software number. It will read 1.02, 1.21, or 1.13.

Therealgeno, My software version is 1.1.3 but as I stated earlier I see the same results on my PLV-Z2. So that leads me to believe it has something to do with my PC, GeForce 6200 video card or TheaterTek program. I usaully figure stuff out on my own but this one has me stumped which is why I threw it out to the Pros in this forum for assistance. Again any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Greg

You are thinking all wrong if this is on a techgirl list....no specs for one. It is shiny. It is pretty. It is black. It lets you snuggle with hubby. Now just imagine you both at the store picking out speakers to match........that are flat and tiny and shiny and pretty. They sound like $%$(*& - but they sure are cute! Do you think the store has a shiny black purse to match?

That's right we all need to find a new hobby - take up woodworking - something involving power tools - something manly. I was going to say DIY speaker building but then where would you put the results? Garage shop speakers - YEAH BABY!

Kras you are off to an EXCELLENT start! I need to get on the ball and start dispensing useless information ASAP.

One question while I have you. It's YOUR money and your going to get a 720 projector this afternoon. What 'cha buying?

Pixel mapping is great, but not the end all of everything.

:eek: OMG Wes you DID NOT SAY THAT DID YOU?!

Did he say that? He did not say that did he? I mean, if he said it, he did not mean it did it? My life...my life.....our lives....what are we doing with our lives then? Where will I turn? What will we do?

Oh Wes WHY WHY! :(

I'm off to the garage to build some new speakers...........

i,m sure this might have been covered before but is there anyway to kick up the fan speed into high while the 4805 is in low mode? i am still concerened over the heat my p.j. throws, filters are clean everything else is operating as it should but the heat can,t be good for its internal components. comments anyone?.......

Kind of a newbie question, but how is one to one pixel mapping possible on the 854x480 4805 when most DVDs are encoded at 720x480?

Question...how long is the power cord to the 4805...trying to decide were to put my power source in ceiling. I would think 3 feet? Thanks

With the lights on 50 is a good contrast setting, but for the dark 25 is more than enough and 35 is bordering on overkill. Once I push past 25 I start getting a picture brighter than those tiny plasma TVs. :)

When you are watching with the lights out, I would imagine that you are ruining your grayscale with those brightness and contrast levels and your image is not properly calibrated. You would be better off keeping brightness and contrast at 50 for a more accurate image and using an ND4 or ND8 filter to cut the lumens and avoid burning your retinas.

Kind of a newbie question, but how is one to one pixel mapping possible on the 854x480 4805 when most DVDs are encoded at 720x480?

I'm no expert on the subject but this is my understanding. Pixel-mapped or not the DVD's info requires scaling, ideally you want the device with the best scaler to perform this scaling to 854x480 to minimize scaling artifacts. HTPC's generally have more processing power than a Projector or typical dvd player therefore are logical candidates to perform this scaling. If the source is not pixel mapped exactly to the projector then both will perform scaling, the projectors scaler kicking in to "fine tune" the signal to match it's required timings. Obviously scaling the signal twice, regardless of scaler quality, is not optimal. A pixel mapped signal ensures the signal is scaled only once thereby maximizing potential PQ.

cummings66,

Thank you for the response, I will be doing some more research on this HDCP compliant issue. It is frustrating not to get the 4805 to do what the manufacturer says it is capable of doing, I will return my LG lst-3510A and get one of the oppo dvd players with DVI out.

It's odd, yes the website does say it's compliant, tech support told me it's not always compatible. I don't know what that means exactly, to me it either works or doesn't. I suppose due to how this system is supposed to work that it's possible something is slightly off somewhere, maybe that's why they gave me the answer they did.

OK you guys!! Y'all made me feel like I was losing my mind. I have no black borders around the image at all! My image is exactly the same size as the blank white screen. I had no idea what y'all were talking about.

But mprover made a comment that got me thinking.

I found an S-Video cable and tried that instead and guess what?? I now have 5-pixel black borders on the sides and and 2-pixel black borders on the top and bottom.

I have no black borders because I am using a DVI digital connection for all sources.

I don't know what happens with component or composite as I have no cables to try.

So ... if you want to get rid of the borders around your images, get a DVI cable.

CAVU, thanks for the response, and the testing you did to confirm the cropping. My DVD player outputs over component, but Im pretty sure that its 480p only , I cant find a way to change it to 480i in the menu. The thing is a POS , I bought it after rebate for $20 . However, to its defense, the cropped picture is still amazing.

I do have a computer next to my projector, and have wanted to do the whole HTPC thing. Its an AMD 3.0 XP (Palamino core I think) , 1.5 GB ram , like 1 TB of HD, but a crappy Geforce 2 Ultra (maybe not crappy in 2001 when I bought it). It does have DVI out, but Im not sure if it will handle pixel mapping correctly. I guess the only way to know for sure is to get a DVI-MI cable. So I guess my question is , am I better off going HTPC (and buying a $150 card like a 6600 GT) or spending a little extra and getting the OPPO. I might get a Bravo D1 in the interm just so I can pixel map it. Any comments would be apreciated.

Oh yeah , did I say this thing rocks? I think Im going to have to give a friend the power cord and have them hide it from me till after my final exmas. Im addicted

So... my question to you guys, is there a way to make the image smaller besides the zoom thing?
I doubt this is what you're looking for, but just in case:

My moveable projector mount (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=576744)

By the way, if this happens to be of interest to you, I have made a few changes since this was posted (specifically, I don't need the bungee chords any more). PM me if you want more information.

-Dan

I'm no expert on the subject but this is my understanding. Pixel-mapped or not the DVD's info requires scaling, ideally you want the device with the best scaler to perform this scaling to 854x480 to minimize scaling artifacts. HTPC's generally have more processing power than a Projector or typical dvd player therefore are logical candidates to perform this scaling. If the source is not pixel mapped exactly to the projector then both will perform scaling, the projectors scaler kicking in to "fine tune" the signal to match it's required timings. Obviously scaling the signal twice, regardless of scaler quality, is not optimal. A pixel mapped signal ensures the signal is scaled only once thereby maximizing potential PQ.

Thanks for your response. That does bring up another question though. If a DVD is encoded at 720x480, as most are from what I understand, and the DVD player outputs 720x480, is it, in fact, doing any scaling?

Question...how long is the power cord to the 4805...trying to decide were to put my power source in ceiling. I would think 3 feet? Thanks

The cord that came with mine was at least 10 feet long..

So I just got my 4805 (another noob :) ).

This seems to be fabulous resource, you guys are the best.

My question is this:

I have read many posts on turning the 4805 completely off vs just letting the fan run. If you choose to just let the fan run, would it be ok to turn it back on anytime you want without waiting 10-20 minutes? If I understand what I read then if you hard power off the unit, you then should wait long enough for the bulb to cool down on it’s own before powering back on.

I have read many posts on turning the 4805 completely off vs just letting the fan run. If you choose to just let the fan run, would it be ok to turn it back on anytime you want without waiting 10-20 minutes? If I understand what I read then if you hard power off the unit, you then should wait long enough for the bulb to cool down on it’s own before powering back on.

Ill try to take a stab at this. I think that the common concensus is that you should power down with the remote, let the fan actively cool the bulb, then switch the master power switch on the side off when the lamp has cooled. The logic behind this is that with the master power off, the internal fan will not continuously run, sucking more dust into the optics, etc. In terms of restriking the bulb 20-30 min after powerdown, I think most people would just leave their PJ on for that time rather than turn it off. The number of times the bulb is lit (struck) is a large factor in bulb lifetime degradation. Someone please chime in if Im off.

Thanks for your response. That does bring up another question though. If a DVD is encoded at 720x480, as most are from what I understand, and the DVD player outputs 720x480, is it, in fact, doing any scaling?

It depends what you tell the player your displays aspect ratio is. If your display is 16:9 and you configure dvd player as such then the signal is sent as is to the projector for scaling. If you tell the dvd player your display is 4:3 ar then the player will sense a 16:9 format and will scale the image to this format but include the top and bottom black bars so the signal still maintains a 4:3 AR and then sends this to the projector which will probably scale it slightly one more time assuming the signal isn't pixel mapped.

Got my refurb the other day, it's awesome, have hooked it to a DVD player & my notebook, am going to commit to FP & build a home theatre room with HTPC & direct tivo HD, will upgrade PJ as prices fall :D

:eek: OMG Wes you DID NOT SAY THAT DID YOU?!

Did he say that? He did not say that did he? I mean, if he said it, he did not mean it did it? My life...my life.....our lives....what are we doing with our lives then? Where will I turn? What will we do?

Oh Wes WHY WHY! :(

I'm off to the garage to build some new speakers...........

Brian,

Let me *clarify* my comment:

"Pixel mapping *in a dvd player* is great, but not the end all of everything. A perfectly pixel mapped HTPC, on the other hand, while beyond the grasp of all but the most gifted of videophiles, is the pearl of great price, and worth the sacrifice that it demands. The way is difficult, but the rewards glorious."

There, quit on those speakers, you'll never get around to listening to them anyway, and get back in there and tweak that grayscale. To use the speakers you'd actually have to watch a movie, and you're still a ways away from that at this point. I know you can make the picture from your HTPC just a little better. Don't give up!

Sorry to have worried you before. . .

Wes

nh03 and penticton102

I've asked the same question and have not received a definitive answere. Some have said their
4805's run very warm, but not scary hot. Mine is to hot to touch for more then a couple seconds
on the bottom under the vent in front.

I'm still searching on the subject. Hopefully someone can say for sure.

nh03 and penticton102

I've asked the same question and have not received a definitive answere. Some have said their
4805's run very warm, but not scary hot. Mine is to hot to touch for more then a couple seconds
on the bottom under the vent in front.

I'm still searching on the subject. Hopefully someone can say for sure.

Obviously the heat buildup in the pj will be determined, in part, by the environment and postioning but getting close to the "too hot to touch" would encourage me to investigate.

Those of you who are concerned with possible overheating should take the exhuast air temperature and post it here, perhaps then a normal range can be determined if others without temp issues also chip in.

OK I'm having a slight problem with my New not a refurb 4805.... Had it for about a month and put close to 200. Not exactly sure what the number is, but I know it's not more than 200. Here's what's happening... I watched a movie (thankfully this happened at the end of it) all the sudden the projector acted like I was changing the source the screen lost sync and then the projector turned off and flashed the red LED 3 times. Making it a bulb issue. I called Infocus and told them what my problem was. They had me turn it on. The projector turns on and I can begin to see the InFocus blue screen and then the projector shuts off and flashes red. They had me ship it to them. I got it back two weeks later and looked for some document of what they did to it. I couldn't find any so I plugged it in and it's doing the same thing.....The projector turns on and I can begin to see the InFocus blue screen and then the projector shuts off and flashes red. I called InFocus back to find out what happend and they said when they got it NOTHING WAS WRONG with it and that they updated the software and cleaned it! Oh on a side note for all you out there wondering what the SP4805 Tsunami Plus means.... On my packing list sent back with the projector they listed it as a Tsunami Plus and I asked InFocus what this ment and they said it's just what they call it and that it isn't anything different. Any ideas of what I should do?

Ok starting to get really anoyed.
In addition to the heat problem, i just looked into the bulb,and the reflector is already CRAZING in less than a week. looks like about an inch long by 1/4 inch wide spot near the bulbs element.

I remember Infocus replaced GamePimps bulb a while back( I have actualy been following and have read the entire thread over the last year, so I'm not a super-noob, just a regular noob :) )

What should I do? Help please from you 4805 OG's, or those familiar with Infocus costomer service.

A perfectly pixel mapped HTPC, on the other hand, while beyond the grasp of all but the most gifted of videophiles, is the pearl of great price, and worth the sacrifice that it demands. The way is difficult, but the rewards glorious."

Thank you Wes. I believe that is the most beautiful prose I have ever read.

As soon as I can clear the tears from eyes, I'm diving back in to the advanced timings.....I'm 6 PIXELS FROM PERFECTION. HEY, that sounds like a fine movie there. Geno, you want the lead or shall we let Jason have it? :rolleyes:

It depends what you tell the player your displays aspect ratio is. If your display is 16:9 and you configure dvd player as such then the signal is sent as is to the projector for scaling. If you tell the dvd player your display is 4:3 ar then the player will sense a 16:9 format and will scale the image to this format but include the top and bottom black bars so the signal still maintains a 4:3 AR and then sends this to the projector which will probably scale it slightly one more time assuming the signal isn't pixel mapped.

Ok, so if I follow correctly, when a regular DVD player is set to 16:9, it is sending the signal as is (except for deinterlacing, if it is set to 480p) to the 4805 where the only scaling takes place (horizontally 720-->854), correct? In that case the benefit from "pixel mapping" doesn't really come from having the signal scaled only once (since it is scaled only once in the aforementioned setup), but from having a better scaler in the player than in the display device. Have I stated this correctly?

As it is I'm pretty impressed with my el cheapo Yamakawa DVD player with the 4805 via VGA, and just wondering what kind of improvements are out there. I don't have a very discerning set of eyes so I doubt I would see much improvement without spending a lot more. $60 for the player, $530 for the projector, $20 DIY screen - sorry for mentioning prices but I'm pretty wowed by a $600 setup. I'm sure I'm not the only one.

Ok, so if I follow correctly, when a regular DVD player is set to 16:9, it is sending the signal as is (except for deinterlacing, if it is set to 480p) to the 4805 where the only scaling takes place (horizontally 720-->854), correct? In that case the benefit from "pixel mapping" doesn't really come from having the signal scaled only once (since it is scaled only once in the aforementioned setup), but from having a better scaler in the player than in the display device. Have I stated this correctly?

That's how I see it, mapping is only beneficial if the source has a superior scaler, the mapped signal required to prevent further scaling at the display.


As it is I'm pretty impressed with my el cheapo Yamakawa DVD player with the 4805 via VGA, and just wondering what kind of improvements are out there. I don't have a very discerning set of eyes so I doubt I would see much improvement without spending a lot more. $60 for the player, $530 for the projector, $20 DIY screen - sorry for mentioning prices but I'm pretty wowed by a $600 setup. I'm sure I'm not the only one.

If you are impressed with your setup and can't identify anything that requires attention you're ahead of the game and in a place most of us long for. Stay where you are for as long as possible.

As soon as I can clear the tears from eyes, I'm diving back in to the advanced timings.....I'm 6 PIXELS FROM PERFECTION. HEY, that sounds like a fine movie there. Geno, you want the lead or shall we let Jason have it? :rolleyes:

Advanced timings.............Are you sure you don't want to use powerstrip? BTW, I'm only 3 pixels away - and no way is Jason going to get it ;) .

And I'm still waiting on DGP's ffdshow settings :rolleyes:

I contacted TT support about the apparent error in their scaling of 16:9 material for 480p displays.........They are "looking into it" which means we are SOL :(

Hugh2,

I'll see if i can get an accurate exhaust temp. reading. I feel heat, but it's not forefully blowing out. Someone else told me their's was "just" blowing out also and was normal. Moving enough air in high to just move a sheet of paper.

I 'm going to call or Email Infocus about it and my bulb issue.

Anyone know a good contact at Infocus?

Any ideas of what I should do?

Send that b*$#@ right back to them.

nh03 and penticton102

I've asked the same question and have not received a definitive answere. Some have said their
4805's run very warm, but not scary hot. Mine is to hot to touch for more then a couple seconds
on the bottom under the vent in front.

I'm still searching on the subject. Hopefully someone can say for sure.



mine is the same way i can,t leave my hand on the top(ceiling mount) for more than a couple of seconds, suprised the plastic hasn,t melted, i,m sure if the fan could be boosted to run in high while the pic is in low mode would certainly go a long way to bring the heat down, will look around for a thermostat to measure the heat from the fan output and the temp on the unit itself will post, what i find later ....... :eek:

I have tried two up-convert DVD players and still get the same lousy result on both.

I get the DVD player start screen (the one that says open/close/loading) and then as soon as the disc starts loading, I get a blank screen.

The funny thing is that the newest DVD player I bought worked great for two days before starting to do this. My first HDMI DVD player worked for a day and then started doing this same thing.

I have no component cables hooked up.

I have the latest version of Firmware on the 4805.

I have tried to play in 1080i, and all the other resolutions. It seems to make no difference.


Help!

This is driving me crazy! I am getting tired of buying new DVD players to try!

Thanks for any help.

DenM3

Send that b*$#@ right back to them.

Do think there is any way that I can get them to pay for the shipping back to InFocus?
Has anyone even had a problem like this?

Whoa , a new 4805 thread or should it be called the new refurbed 4805 thread ;) .

--- So what did I miss ?

----------- Jason

Do think there is any way that I can get them to pay for the shipping back to InFocus?
Has anyone even had a problem like this?

Yup, just let them know this is completely unacceptable and demand this be fixed at no charge including shipping, under the circumstances you are not responsible for any further shipping charges so be certain you get their UPS account number before you ship the unit. If they don't respond to your liking go up the line.

But for God's sake be certain the problem isn't due to something at your end like a faulty power bar or something stupid like that.

Mostly our new Movie...6 PIXELS FROM PERFECTION....and whether you or Geno are getting the leading role. Post the correct timings for 856x480 using ONLY the Nvidia drivers for a 6800 card and I PROMISE you have the role......

Oh, and Kras now does the funny stuff and provides NO relevent information what so ever and I am in charge of helping the new people with important information. Like being sure you NEVER use the remote to turn off the unit and always unplug it from the wall before you go to bed. Always.

Yup, just let them know this is completely unacceptable and demand this be fixed at no charge including shipping, under the circumstances you are not responsible for any further shipping charges so be certain you get their UPS account number before you ship the unit. If they don't respond to your liking go up the line.

But for God's sake be certain the problem isn't due to something at your end like a faulty power bar or something stupid like that.


Thanks for the advice... I'm going to go over EVERYTHING before calling InFocus on Mon. I'm even going to see if I can get it to work on the coffee table.... I have it ceiling mounted right now..... maybe at InFocus they had it right-side up?

Thanks for the advice... I'm going to go over EVERYTHING before calling InFocus on Mon. I'm even going to see if I can get it to work on the coffee table.... I have it ceiling mounted right now..... maybe at InFocus they had it right-side up?

Also check the ac cord iec connection at the pj, this connection can fairly tight on some PJ's so give it a very hard push to ensure it's fully seated.

"24 hours in a day, 24 beers in a case. Coincidence? I think not."
~ Stephen Wright

Ya know what.... I'd swear I work at least 30 hours a day. ;)

DenM3, I don't know why you're losing the signal, but I'm curious as to why you would upconvert in the first place. Excepting HTPC's, the 4805 works best when fed 480p from a Faroudja based DVD source via DVI or 480i via component. If you upconvert, it only ads another digital conversion that increases the chance of conversion artifacts. It would be different if we were talking about a 720p native pj. Then you would try out the upconversion at your DVD source and compare it to the projector's upconversion.

Mostly our new Movie...6 PIXELS FROM PERFECTION....and whether you or Geno are getting the leading role. Post the correct timings for 856x480 using ONLY the Nvidia drivers for a 6800 card and I PROMISE you have the role......

I'm using a 5700 and also would like to do it "driver only". I only use the 4805 for DVD's of films - no games and no TV dvd's. One setting would work fine for me, Powerstrip is a waste of memory and processor time on my older machine.

Mention the driver version too if you get one that does 854x480. My version only does 848x480. :)

-W

Like being sure you NEVER use the remote to turn off the unit and always unplug it from the wall before you go to bed. Always.

WHY??? Other than the insignificant amount of dust that might get in there before cleaning, I don't see a reason. Is there any other reason that makes you say ALWAYS? Just curious.

Because using it to act as an aircleaner 24/7 is not insignificant.
And you unplug it to avoid power spikes or surges (like from storms) killing it while you aren't looking.

-W

Hi everyone!
Here is a new batch of photos from Star Wars 3:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a368/shaolin95/SW5.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a368/shaolin95/SW4.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a368/shaolin95/SW2.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a368/shaolin95/SW1.jpg
Hope you like them. As usual, quality live is better than the pictures due to camera playing tricks on image but its fun to share them with you. At least my new cam is much better at dealing with dark images thus I can provide more variety in my photos than before. BTW, new cam is Sony DSC-T5 and old cam was Fuji Finepix 2650.
Regards

Hi everyone!
Here is a new batch of photos from Star Wars 3:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a368/shaolin95/SW5.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a368/shaolin95/SW4.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a368/shaolin95/SW2.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a368/shaolin95/SW1.jpg
Hope you like them. As usual, quality live is better than the pictures due to camera playing tricks on image but its fun to share them with you. At least my new cam is much better at dealing with dark images thus I can provide more variety in my photos than before. BTW, new cam is Sony DSC-T5 and old cam was Fuji Finepix 2650.
RegardsLuis -- wow!

This "new" thread has been great for the new batch of refurb in the hands of proud new projector parents

one cable question:

1) Going to run a 25ft cable from my computer (DVI) to the 4805. I assume I can use a DVI to M1 cable found on monoprice (here (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10238&cs_id=1023801&p_id=2498&seq=1&format=2&style=) ). Is an M1 cable the same as a M1-DA?

Hi everyone!
Here is a new batch of photos from Star Wars 3:
Regards

Luis,

Looks great! What's your screen again?

Wes

Thanks guys! My screen? That beautiful thing called blackout cloth :D It was my material at 7' wide for my Sony W400Q and its now my 9' screen for the 4805. Cant beat that kind of price/performance.

Thanks guys! My screen? That beautiful thing called blackout cloth :D It was my material at 7' wide for my Sony W400Q and its now my 9' screen for the 4805. Cant beat that kind of price/performance.


Your whole screen is blackout cloth???

Your whole screen is blackout cloth???

Nice Luis....
I notice his sig says ffdshow 3.5. I heard of this program before, which is mostly why it looks so sharp. My DVD player is good, but no way as good as a HTPC. Maybe it's time for me to do some research, any experts here got a noob guide or can help me get started?? :)

Edit: I don't need a HTPC to do all the DVR stuff, if I just want it to play DVDs, is it as simple as getting a cheap desktop, a DVI card, DVD-drive, and install the ffdshow program?

You can't beat BO cloth for value, especially if you're new to front projection. I've been using 92" home built, strectcher bar, BO cloth and still happy with 4805 since July of last year.

Another thing that's worked out really well, I I ran a ceiling outlet and a separate switch for it, so I never have to touch the unit or plug to turn it off.

Fun to see this unit still has legs after 18 months, super value at current prices.

Mention the driver version too if you get one that does 854x480. My version only does 848x480.

Clams, both Luis and I can confirm 854x480 using the 77 version drivers (77.79 for me with a WMCE rig and 77.77 for Luis) Here are some old instructions from Luis on one way to get it to work.

Try this...go to Nvidia Control Panel and look for the Resolution and timing section. Now, try a resolution like 864x480 @ 72HZ (add it) then apply it. It shouldnt look good but then go to advance timings (something like that) and enter 854 where it says 864. After that the pj must be showing 854x480 (still under discussion) and the image will be razor sharp. You can also do it using 848x480 from the main menu instead of adding 864x480 but to me it works better adding the new resolution cause it got rid of a weird artifact I was getting when using TheaterTek and forcing full screen exclusive VMR9. I can use 848x480 or 864x480 and both as both are customized for 854x480@72 and after you do it once it gets "saved" and becomes the new default. The advantage of customizing 848x480 also is that in games like Half Life 2 when you select the 848x480 resolution it will actually show 854x480 at least according to the projector that is.
I hope my post is clear but feel free to ask

I of course am not happy with 854 and MUST have 856. Be aware that the 71 hz can have an effect on video based material...for instance if you are displaying recorded TV through your HPTC I would stick with 60hz. Even though your driver timings might not display it, the 4805 will show you 71 or 60 and its easy to switch back and forth between the two to compare.

Thanks guys! My screen? That beautiful thing called blackout cloth :D It was my material at 7' wide for my Sony W400Q and its now my 9' screen for the 4805. Cant beat that kind of price/performance.

Luis,

Very impressive.

What's your impression of your black level? Can you tell a big difference between your screen border black and the 2.35:1 bars? I'm trying to decide how I can improve my black level without a screen change. My black level is pretty good, I think, but still definitely a very dark grey.

I have a totally light controlled room, with dark velvet curtains all the way around and a dark brown ceiling, and an ND2 filter. My biggest challenge, I think, is that my ceiling is very low, so I'm getting light spill (a little) from my textured ceiling, even though it's dark. I think I could put velvet or something there to kill more screen reflection.

Also, my screen is smaller than yours, I'm running 82" diagonal, so I'm at a higher lumens than you, probably. . . my screen is MMud over doable board, which is probably a little brighter than blackout cloth. The screen seems to glow just a little with any ambient light, like cracking the door open.

Thanks for you screen shots-

Wes

Wes

Several people were voicing concern for running video cable alongside power cables, is this because of possibility of interference? I am a noob and am just happy I can ceiling mount due to my layout. I was going to run these cables through my ceiling in a DIY mount.....probably MM. What sort of extension cord would you use for the power? Would you use something special or just any cord will do? I want to get it right the first time. I realize an outlet in my ceiling would be the best option but probably not practical in my setup. I was worried about the offset of the 4805 but it looks like it will work fine in my room. I am getting a 96" screen on Durotherm board and it looks great to me. Not a bad picture for this noob. I would appreciate some input and suggestions.

Several people were voicing concern for running video cable alongside power cables, is this because of possibility of interference? I am a noob and am just happy I can ceiling mount due to my layout. I was going to run these cables through my ceiling in a DIY mount.....probably MM. What sort of extension cord would you use for the power? Would you use something special or just any cord will do? I want to get it right the first time. I realize an outlet in my ceiling would be the best option but probably not practical in my setup. I was worried about the offset of the 4805 but it looks like it will work fine in my room. I am getting a 96" screen on Durotherm board and it looks great to me. Not a bad picture for this noob. I would appreciate some input and suggestions.

I'm uncertain if you are planning to run an extension cord or power cord between the walls or up into an attic (my answer would differ depending on the set up). If your set up requires electrical/power between the walls, here's a thread you should read:


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=580091

Ron

Brian, why do you want 856? The native res is 854x480 not 856x480. Heck, 856x480 I can achieve without troubles with current driver and even with the latest driver I managed to modified the 848x480 to 854x480 so now every game that supports 848x480 res will actually send 854 to my 4805! I had it like that with the 77.77 and finally did it with the new drivers but dont ask me why as this is all luck. Some times settings will stick other times they wont. I wish Nvidia did something to correct this.

Wes, the borders are blacker of course but my black level is very good at least to me. You dont have a ND2 filter? At that size you may need it. I dont use it cause based on calculations I am already at the desired lumen output due to the screen size.

BTW, blackout cloth is not big enough to project a 16:9 image at 9' wide so the top of my image is projecting on the white wall. Still the transition from blackout to wall is not harsh and the image is so big that I dont notice it while watching movies.

At least my new cam is much better at dealing with dark images thus I can provide more variety in my photos than before. BTW, new cam is Sony DSC-T5 and old cam was Fuji Finepix 2650.
Regards
I just went from a Sony to a Fuji Finepix F10. It supposedly has great low light abilities from the reviews I've read. I had planned on taking screen shots last night and instead ended up helping a buddy set up his new plasma and reconfigure his HT. So I'll give it a go tonight provided no unforseen circumstances.

BTW, Luis, you always have great screen shots. What setting for the picture quality mode(number of pixels) on the camera do you use ?

Hey,

I got my Black Friday 4805 in. I absolutely love it :D From what I can tell it is brand new or was really babied. 0 hours on bulb, 1.2.1 firmware. The picture is awesome. I do occasionally notice a flickering of the image which as I've read here is a bug in the 1.2.1 firmware. Special thanks to tivo1 for mentioning the original deal :)

I don't need a HTPC to do all the DVR stuff, if I just want it to play DVDs, is it as simple as getting a cheap desktop, a DVI card, DVD-drive, and install the ffdshow program?I am working on an HTPC (MSI Neo4 SLI Platinum) but the cheap and dirty way of accomplishing this PQ from a DVD is to go to eBay and buy yourself a Bravo D1 DVD player (http://reviews.cnet.com/V_Bravo_D1/4505-1_7-20848496.html) (~$100), hook it up with a DVI cable and set the DVI output to 852x480. It's fantastic.

Important: Do not use the Bravo D1 for analog output (component or composite) or buy one if you are not a PQ freak; if you are not doing 1:1 pixel-mapping with the D1, the only other thing it is good for is to prop up a table leg. The machine is not known for its user friendliness or its analog performance. ;)

Luis,
How did it look at 856x480? Reason I'm asking is I have a AIW 9600 with vga to component adapter and not sure what the best resolution I should set it at. Can't do 848x480.

I have a AIW 9600 with vga to component adapter and not sure what the best resolution I should set it at. Can't do 848x480.It doesn't much matter with an analog signal. Pick one that looks good on your system.

The pixel-mapping discussions all relate to digital interfaces (DVI).

[QUOTE=cavu]I am working on an HTPC (MSI Neo4 SLI Platinum) but the cheap and dirty way of accomplishing this PQ from a DVD is to go to eBay and buy yourself a Bravo D1 DVD player (http://reviews.cnet.com/V_Bravo_D1/4505-1_7-20848496.html) (~$100), hook it up with a DVI cable and set the DVI output to 852x480. It's fantastic.

i don,t know about that after reading the reviews on that link you posted i think i would look at other players :)

Luis,
How did it look at 856x480? Reason I'm asking is I have a AIW 9600 with vga to component adapter and not sure what the best resolution I should set it at. Can't do 848x480.

As cavu said, you need DVI to pixel map and its well worth it. BTW, its 854x480 not 856 but with ATI your choices will either be 848 or 856 which will still look razor sharp.
Regards

Hey,

Special thanks to tivo1 for mentioning the original deal :)

I second that.

BUY NVIDIA. A 6600 is a great buy, the 6800s are getting to be better buys, 7800 if you like to spend money, (duel 6800s and a duel core AMD processor if you really want to go for it)

Load the latest TESTED Nvidia drivers. There is finally a GOOD working version for MCE.

Buy Theater Tec, it will get you the latest NVIDIA decoders (see the theme? Card+Drivers+Decoders=our goal of goodness) You COULD use WMCE for the player but it still has issues even if you buy the latest NVIDIA decoders.

Use DVI into the 4805 and set the gains offsets per Bob Williams.

Turn on the movie and eat popcorn.

I am attempting a high-risk cross-thread reply here -- I think I should get extra points for difficulty.

Brian I Am, I noticed in this fine post of yours from the old 4805 thread that you do not mention pixel mapping. Was that left out by mistake? Can you pixel map the 4805 with an nvidia 6800, Theater Tek 2.2 and none of the other utilities (e.g. FFDshow) so often mentioned by the HTPCers?

Brian, why do you want 856? The native res is 854x480 not 856x480. Heck, 856x480 I can achieve without troubles with current driver and even with the latest driver I managed to modified the 848x480 to 854x480 so now every game that supports 848x480 res will actually send 854 to my 4805!

Sorry, I think I am only adding to the confusion by using that number. 856 is a bit of an oddity envolving the Nvidia timings...what they will SHOW in the advanced timing options of Nvidias drivers...and what the 4805 will report that it is showing. While I have no trouble entering the 854x480 @ 71hz..and the 4805 has no problem reporting it...Theater Tec for me displays 6 pixels of crap down the side...thus rendering the otherwise PERFECT image useless.

Nvidias drivers to not easily accept timing changes like Powestrip will...making it mind numbingly frustrating to try and solve the issue.

Yes Dan that is correct. Actually things look just great at the standard Nvidia timing of 848x480.

I started a thread to share experiences of reliability and repair with the 4805 and the h31. Thought it could help people make decisions and to get an idea of what it is like to deal with warranty claims with Infocus and Optoma. Looking for good and bad experiences...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=611258

after reading the reviews on that link you posted i think i would look at other playersI warned you that you have to want the most exquisite DVD image available to tolerate the unit's weaknesses. And because of the 1:1 pixel-mapped PQ it really doesn't matter what the reviews say about any other aspect of the player. The C-Net review pretty much summarizes it with the following ...
When the D1 is connected to the right display device, this innocuous-looking $199 box can deliver video quality that outdoes that of any analog-output unit we've seen, regardless of price. Its unpolished look and feel will keep it from becoming a favorite of the masses, but if you ... happen to own a DVI-equipped fixed-pixel plasma, DLP, LCOS, or LCD display, you'll get over the D1's design flaws very quickly.If you are not a PQ freak, go with any one of the plethora of pedestrian consumer DVD players. Many recommend the Oppo.

But the Bravo D1 is the unit that Bob Williams at Infocus uses to test the SP4805. And your ONLY other pixel-mapping choices are the SnaZio and Momitsu for considerably more money.

Wes, the borders are blacker of course but my black level is very good at least to me. You dont have a ND2 filter? At that size you may need it. I dont use it cause based on calculations I am already at the desired lumen output due to the screen size.

I *do* have an ND2, so it's all working well.

I warned you that you have to want the most exquisite DVD image available to tolerate the unit's weeaknesses. And because of the 1:1 pixel-mapped PQ it really doesn't matter what the reviews say about any other aspect of the player. The C-Net review pretty much summarizes it with the following ...
If you are not a PQ freak, go with any one of the plethora of pedestrian consumer DVD players. Many recommend the Oppo.

But the Bravo D1 is the unit that Bob Williams at Infocus uses to test the SP4805. And your ONLY other pixel-mapping choices are the SnaZio and Momitsu for considerably more money.

Can you explain why the Oppo does not pixel map? I thought there were a few people running Oppo's to their 4805's that were pixel-mapped.

Can you explain why the Oppo does not pixel map? I thought there were a few people running Oppo's to their 4805's that were pixel-mapped.

OPPO customer service said they would look into the ability to pixel map, but I think the Faroudja chip is not set up for cutom resolutions like the one in the Bravo. So, for now, it appears that pixel mapping with the OPPO is not an option.

*But*, if you read through the OPPO thread, or do a search for the Bravo in that thread, there are many owners of the Bravo that had that dvd player pixel mapped to their display, some of them 4805 owners, that *prefer the display with the OPPO*. There is no question that the OPPO is much more reliable, user-friendly, and has much better customer support than Bravo.

Of course, this is only the opinons of some people, YMMV. There are even a couple guys with HTPC's that have switched over to the OPPO just because it's so easy to use and dependable, and the image quality is so close. . .

Wes

I see, thank you.

If you are not a PQ freak, go with any one of the plethora of pedestrian consumer DVD players. Many recommend the Oppo.

Most OPPO owners, myself included, own this unit because we *are* picture quality freaks, and for the money, there are few dvd players that do as many things right when it comes to picture quality as the OPPO.

If you haven't seen one in action, I would hesitate to lump it in with the rest of the "pedestrian" dvd players.

It also does dvd audio, which is a nice bonus, and is around $800 cheaper than a dedicated good quality HTPC.

Wes

There are even a couple guys with HTPC's that have switched over to the OPPO just because it's so easy to use and dependable, and the image quality is so close. . .

Wes

Oh so true - HTPCs are a royal pain in the ass. Even if you do as Brian explained - plug everything in and hope the DVD plays - it still can be a huge headache.

Is the HTPC worth it? Yes and No. I think it depends on the person, actually. If you have patience, time, and $$$, then go for it. If you want to just "plug and play," then the HTPC is not the way to go. In my experince, my HTPC has been the best by far. BUT, I have NOT seen either the Oppo or the Bravo - and to be honest, I kinda don't want to. Imagine learning all that hard work and late nights and headaches and tears and nights on the couch for nothing!!!

Anyway, whoever is debating between the Bravo and Oppo, just get both and compare - then return the inferior one. It's usually personal taste anyway.

BTW, I finally removed my ND2 filter last night after about a year. BOOM! Now I think it's too bright again - sometimes. We'll see.

Most OPPO owners, myself included, own this unit because we *are* picture quality freaks, and for the money, there are few dvd players that do as many things right when it comes to picture quality as the OPPO.

If you haven't seen one in action, I would hesitate to lump it in with the rest of the "pedestrian" dvd players.

It also does dvd audio, which is a nice bonus, and is around $800 cheaper than a dedicated good quality HTPC.

WesWes, what do you output with the OPPO? 480i/p or do you use it to upconvert?

If you haven't seen one in action, I would hesitate to lump it in with the rest of the "pedestrian" dvd players.Wes! Don't get defensive. I agree with you.

I'm simply trying to make a point that many noobs and non-noobs don't grasp the essence of 'pixel-mapping' (PM). They seem to assume that DVI means PM. They assume that a specific VGA resolution means PM. They assume, ie. Quaid, that the current 'buzz' in DVD players do PM.

But as you and I and a few other road-weary PQ freaks know clearly that there's DVI, and then there's DVI and there's HDMI and then there's pixel-mapping.

The fact that there are only three manufacturers of pixel-mapping DVD players places these machines outside the mainstream. They are definitely non-pedestrian. They are either not in production or you have to order them from a shaman in Japan.

You can't walk into BB, Staples, Walmart and similar AV 'specialty' stores and pickup a pixel-mapping DVD player. They are so rare that even AV participants with hundreds of posts haven't understood that they are a breed apart. I'd suggest that 99.9% of the readers of this forum have never seen a pixel-mapped image on an SP4805. (Have you?)

So those of us who understand the effective differences of 848x480 versus 852x480 should simply agree to try and agree on at least some facts! ;)

I will start:

You can only do 1:1 pixel-mapping with a DVD player from one of three manufacturers or an HTPC.
That's it.

Now, is pixel-mapping on a Bravo a punishment for the lost or does an Oppo provide the butterscotch midrange of video imaging?? Do HTPC freaks live in the Phantom Zone?? I don't know and will pick my own poison and you, yours.

(We can get later together for a pissing contest, a circle jerk or make comments about our respective opposite's mother's footwear. ;) )

Wes! Don't get defensive. I agree with you.

I'm simply trying to make a point that many noobs and non-noobs don't grasp the essence of 'pixel-mapping' (PM). They seem to assume that DVI means PM. They assume that a specific VGA resolution means PM. They assume, ie. Quaid, that the current 'buzz' in DVD players do PM.

Not getting defensive, I agree with you as well. I just don't want someone to look at this thread, and lose hope that they can't have great picture quality just because they don't have an HTPC or pixel mapping dvd player.

I would *love* to see one of these optimized pixel mapped HTPC's in action live, just to get a feel for how that image and my OPPO image compare.

I would *love* to hook up an optimized HTPC to my 4805 to see what it looks like in my environment.

Oh well, we'll continue on. I also would hate to see someone pick up a Bravo without reading through some of the threads and seeing that a lot of people have had headaches with them, replaced the loaders, etc.

I'll try to post a screen shot from my OPPO/4805 setup sometime, not that it will matter much or prove anything, but at least there will be one to look at!

Wes

Wes, what do you output with the OPPO? 480i/p or do you use it to upconvert?

OPPPO doesn't do 480i over DVI, and it's not very good over component (only 480i). I alternated between 480p and 720p, and couldn't really see the difference. I think it's at 480p right now. . .

Wes

Can anyone suggest a graphics card that I can pair with my computer to do pixel mapping. Is ATI or NVIDIA a better choice. Ive been looking at the 6600 line of NVIDIA cards to replace my Geforce II ultra.


Thanks

Cheapest recommended will be the 6600GT. Great gaming card and works superbly for HTPC.

Ditto what Luis said. If money is no object...keep climbing the ladder to a 6800 or the new 7800 but for the money, at the moment, 6600GT. Be sure and use a good software player to go with it. Theater Tec can not be beat at the moment, but if you are a hardcore tweeker, you can achceive similar results with some other free or less expensive options.

Cavu,

Regarding the Bravo D1/ D2, is pixel mapping achieved without accessing and tweaking the custom DVI timings?

Ok it looks like I need yet another DVD player to try. Does anyone know where to buy a Bravo D1 or Oppo? All I see available are Bravo D2. Will that work with the 4805 via DVI?

Guys--- is it just me or wouldn't this thread benefit from a list of all HDMI and DVI DVD players that are compatable with the 4805.


Thanks!

Ditto what Luis said. If money is no object...keep climbing the ladder to a 6800 or the new 7800 but for the money, at the moment, 6600GT. Be sure and use a good software player to go with it. Theater Tec can not be beat at the moment, but if you are a hardcore tweeker, you can achceive similar results with some other free or less expensive options.

Yet another ditto. I do currently use an ATI (x700 pro). 21 more days and I will have a 6600 GT, and newly built HTPC!! :D

Regarding the Bravo D1/ D2, is pixel mapping achieved without accessing and tweaking the custom DVI timings?Yes. From the very first D1 the options on the DVI output were:
480i
480p
720p
1080i
852x480
The custom menu on later firmware releases and on the D2 offer many other choices.

Most OPPO owners, myself included, own this unit because we *are* picture quality freaks, and for the money, there are few dvd players that do as many things right when it comes to picture quality as the OPPO.
Wes

I'm now a bit confused. Bravo is a 1:1 pixel mapping player which will displays every pixel, and Oppo is a fantastic upscaling DVD player. So it's exact pixel vs. super upsacling, which one has better picture quality on a 4805?

P.S. I had a Samsung 841 upscaling DVD player and it was just blahh...couldn't tell any improvement.

Does anyone know where to buy a Bravo D1 or Oppo? All I see available are Bravo D2. Will that work with the 4805 via DVI?There is usually a D1 and D2 listed on eBay. One of each just sold in the last few days. (D1~$115, D2~$150). Just keep an eye open for them.

The D2 DVI output is identical to the D1 but has improved analog performance as well as additional features, better remote and improved loader mechanism. Although the D2 is currently sold out, I believe they will again be available from VInc. Check their web-site (http://www.vinc.com/site/products/product_bravod2.html).
wouldn't this thread benefit from a list of all HDMI and DVI DVD players that are compatable with the 4805. You'd be better to go with a list of those that were not compatible with the SP4805. I would think that the vast majority will work fine, but I have heard there are some which have had HDCP issues.

There is usually a D1 and D2 listed on eBay. One of each just sold in the last few days. (D1~$115, D2~$150). Just keep an eye open for them.

The D2 DVI output is identical to the D1 but has improved analog performance as well as additional features, better remote and improved loader mechanism. Although the D2 is currently sold out, I believe they will again be available from VInc. Check their web-site (http://www.vinc.com/site/products/product_bravod2.html).
You'd be better to go with a list of those that were not compatible with the SP4805. I would think that the vast majority will work fine, but I have heard there are some which have had HDCP issues.

The Zenith 318 over DVI would be on the list of *not* compatible.

I can't get over the detail in Luis's screen shots, especially the one of Yoda. It looks almost like it's got HD color depth in it. Very impressive. . .

Wes

Clams, both Luis and I can confirm 854x480 using the 77 version drivers (77.79 for me with a WMCE rig and 77.77 for Luis) Here are some old instructions from Luis on one way to get it to work.

Try this...go to Nvidia Control Panel and look for the Resolution and timing section. Now, try a resolution like 864x480 @ 72HZ (add it) then apply it. It shouldnt look good but then go to advance timings (something like that) and enter 854 where it says 864. After that the pj must be showing 854x480 (still under discussion) and the image will be razor sharp. You can also do it using 848x480 from the main menu instead of adding 864x480 but to me it works better adding the new resolution cause it got rid of a weird artifact I was getting when using TheaterTek and forcing full screen exclusive VMR9. I can use 848x480 or 864x480 and both as both are customized for 854x480@72 and after you do it once it gets "saved" and becomes the new default. The advantage of customizing 848x480 also is that in games like Half Life 2 when you select the 848x480 resolution it will actually show 854x480 at least according to the projector that is.
I hope my post is clear but feel free to ask

I of course am not happy with 854 and MUST have 856. Be aware that the 71 hz can have an effect on video based material...for instance if you are displaying recorded TV through your HPTC I would stick with 60hz. Even though your driver timings might not display it, the 4805 will show you 71 or 60 and its easy to switch back and forth between the two to compare.

OK thanks........ I don't have MCE so I'm downloading the 77.77 driver as we speak. I'll prolly get to try it tomorrow night - very busy day tomorrow.

So it's exact pixel vs. super upsacling, which one has better picture quality on a 4805? It's a 480 projector. It has the Faroudja deinterlacer, about the best available.

Feed it:480i if the player has less than fantastic deinterlacing; or480p if the player has fantastic deinterlacing; or a pixel-mapped image.

Upscaling will not improve DVD PQ on the 4805! Period.

Upscaling will not improve DVD PQ on the 4805! Period.
Thats sort of a bold statement. Perhaps you should add that upscaling on the HTPC plus the added image processing is a totally different thing. FFDSHOW users resize to 2x or even 4x dvd size then process the image and pixel map at the end for sustantially better image. It may not sound logical but it works.
Regards

Pixel map players can give a great picture. But you still need to consider its ability as a deinterlacer/processor.

Bravo D1
http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/cgi-bin/shootout.cgi?function=search&articles=all&type=&manufacturer=43&maxprice=0&deInt=0&mpeg=0#V.%20IncBravo%20D1%20-%20DVI

Oppo 971H
For some reason the link to the Oppo benchmark result is not on the site when I looked, but I believe it was given a 94.

I tried pixel mapping to 854x480 on my 4805 again tonight with my geforce 5500. Can't seem to get it to work. 848x480 works fine though.

Why is everyone still having the OCD on mapping 854 vs. 848 , do you suppose those extra 6 pixel rows are going to make a real difference ... hmmm ;) . I can do either 854 or 848 and while I can see the 3 extra pixels on each side (come to life) it sure as heck makes no difference in image quality IMO ( and I am ANAL when it comes to my image - ask kras :D ) .

--- Oh and you do not want to send 856 since the 4805 will scale it and thus you will not be mapped ;) .

--- Luis gets those kind of results because of a tuned HTPC (using FFDshow with the best filters) not because he is using 854 instead of 848 (of this I can assure you) . Oh and because he has a nice digi-cam ;) .

------------- Jason

What kind of settings are you using with FFDSHOW? For anyone new to it, it's a tad overwhelming.

Ask Chewbacco as we just got him tuned in and I forget the exact numbers. But I doubt he is posting or reading anymore - he has to watch his whole DVD collection all over again now - it is that good.

The answer is very little FFDSHOW - but enough to make a difference while looking for side effects with AVIA PRO. And you do have to work on the pixel map and 48/1.001 Hz issues and TT aspect bugs - don't give up to a full pixel display if you pixel stretch to get there. Those three pixels on each side are only 3x480x2=2,880 pixels you will never miss....

I'm a complete newbie so have patience. I don"t understand why a dedicated HTPC is necessary, why can't a decent PC with a good graphics and sound card be used with the same results?

OK thanks........ I don't have MCE so I'm downloading the 77.77 driver as we speak. I'll prolly get to try it tomorrow night - very busy day tomorrow.

OK........... I can report that my 5700 with the 77.77 drivers canNOT do 854x480.

I tried both ways in the custom section and it kept telling me that it was an invalid value, even when manually plugging it in from above that value. So I'm 848x480.

Jason, we do this because it's FUN to try to get those 6 extra pixels. And while your here what did you ever decide for refresh rates for film and TV. You still using the 47.952 ??

-Wayne

OPPPO doesn't do 480i over DVI, and it's not very good over component (only 480i). I alternated between 480p and 720p, and couldn't really see the difference. I think it's at 480p right now. . .

Wes
Even if the Oppo did do 480i over DVI, the 4805 wouldn't handle it correctly (it does not like 480i in the M1). I should have thought of that having just pointed that out in an earlier post :rolleyes: . Thanks, Dan

OK Brian...... I think I was doing it wrong. I was trying to use the ADD button to type in a new custom setting.

But now this gets stranger........... I don't GET the advanced timings button when on the 4805 - only when I'm on the little monitor. When I'm on the 4805, I only get the ADD / REMOVE buttons? What's up with that??

-W

I have been having difficulty hooking up my 4805 to the Dish DVR 942. I currently have it connected using the component cables but can't get the M1 to HDMI cable to get anything but a black screen. I have talked to both Dish and Infocus with no luck. Has anyone had any success with this combination? What cable worked?

Thanks

I'm a complete newbie so have patience. I don"t understand why a dedicated HTPC is necessary, why can't a decent PC with a good graphics and sound card be used with the same results?

HTPC and regular pc are the same thing. Some people have a dedicated pc for their home theater and call it an htpc because that's just what they want. :)

I have been having difficulty hooking up my 4805 to the Dish DVR 942. I currently have it connected using the component cables but can't get the M1 to HDMI cable to get anything but a black screen. I have talked to both Dish and Infocus with no luck. Has anyone had any success with this combination? What cable worked?

ThanksCan you test if you have a bad cable or bad M1 adapter? Do you (or neighbor/friend) have any other components that output via HDMI that you could hook up? Someone with a similar problem cured it by replacing his M1 adapter. I had the Dish 811 HD receiver hooked up to the 4805 without problems but it has a DVI-D output not HDMI. Good luck, Dan

--- Luis gets those kind of results because of a tuned HTPC (using FFDshow with the best filters) not because he is using 854 instead of 848 (of this I can assure you) . Oh and because he has a nice digi-cam ;) .
------------- Jason

Ahhh...man.... Way to dump cold water over everyone here. :)
Those pics do look awesome.

Can you test if you have a bad cable or bad M1 adapter? Do you (or neighbor/friend) have any other components that output via HDMI that you could hook up? Someone with a similar problem cured it by replacing his M1 adapter. I had the Dish 811 HD receiver hooked up to the 4805 without problems but it has a DVI-D output not HDMI. Good luck, Dan

I hooked up the projector to a laptop using the M1 to VGA cable and it worked. I have tried several cables to hook up the 942. 2 different M1 to HDMI and 1 setup with M1 to DVI w/ DVI to HDMI adapter. none of these worked. This is also the second 942 I tried because I had non related issue with the 1st one. Neither of the 92s worked with the 4850.

Unfortunately I don't have anyone that I know of the has a component that uses HDMI as an output. They all seem to be DVI.

Bob

I hooked up the projector to a laptop using the M1 to VGA cable and it worked. I have tried several cables to hook up the 942. 2 different M1 to HDMI and 1 setup with M1 to DVI w/ DVI to HDMI adapter. none of these worked. This is also the second 942 I tried because I had non related issue with the 1st one. Neither of the 92s worked with the 4850.

Unfortunately I don't have anyone that I know of the has a component that uses HDMI as an output. They all seem to be DVI.

Bob
I would try posting here if you haven't already:
http://www.satelliteguys.us/forumdisplay.php?f=13

I have had my X1 in the wall for over 2 years. My new 4805 is in the same spot. What I did was cut a hole in the wall and frame it. It is about 2 inches bigger all around than the projector.
Good luck

Scottwood2 - How about some pictures of this mount in your gallery? I'm about to do a similar thing except that my wall goes through to attic space. I'd love to see how it looks. I checked out your gallery but no mount pictures.

-Redbird

Could someone please tell me what size screws are needed for a ceiling mount.

HTPC and regular pc are the same thing. Some people have a dedicated pc for their home theater and call it an htpc because that's just what they want. :)

Yes indeed! My pc is my HTPC, my gaming pc, my music creation pc...you name it.
On the 854x480 topic....as Jason said, dont worry too much about it...it is more of a "YES I DID IT!" thing than a "WOW LOOK AT THE DIFFERENCE!". Yes you get a few extra pixels but clarity is still the same I think even though I think it looks a bit sharper at 854 but that is more than likely, the power of placebo working on me.

For ffdshow users, here are my settings:

Here are my FFDSHOW settings in the order they are setup:

Crop : TOP 56 Borrom 56 (depends on the dvd ratio)
Avysinth : ColorMatrix() this is complex as it involves other stuff installation.
Sharpen : asharp, High Quality checked, unsharp masking threshold .52 and the other two parameters at 0.
Warpsharp : chroma mode NONE, blur mode high quality 3 pass, DEPTH= 64 , Threshold= .99, Blur = 0
RESIZE : Mutiply by 4, No aspect correction checked, Lanczos = 2, luma sharpen = .91, chroma sharpen = 0

As you can see I dont use noise reducers because they ALWAYS, no matter how little, make you lose some detail and thats something I cant afford at 9' wide.

Resize by 4 is pretty demanding on CPU so depending on your system you may have to change that and then compensate by lowering sharpness too.

Here are my PCs specs:
thlon64 3400 Newcastle LBAZC 0451 @ 2778MHZ | Scythe Ninja w Delta 120mm FFB1212VHE 152CFM! | DFI LP NF3 250GB Bios Tmod 6/23 | 2x512MB OCZ PC4000 Gold VX 252 FSB @ 2-2-2-7 | X-Navigator Case | OCZ Powerstream 520W | X-Fi Fatal1ty | BFG 6800GT 415/1100 | 200GB Seagate 7200 | 40 GB Western Digital 7200 | 80GB Samsung 7200 | 3D Glasses | BenQ 1625 Lightscribe |Super Talent Active Ram Cooler |Logitech MX518| Ratzpad GS|Sennheiser HD 212 Pro

Hope that helps you. Some of the settings are probable not doing much but since it was looking so good I decided not to mess with it anymore.
Regards

Could someone please tell me what size screws are needed for a ceiling mount.

Straight from one of the engineer's himself:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6343210&&#post6343210

4mm screws. Hardware stores have them in the metric section.

Here are my PCs specs:
thlon64 3400 Newcastle LBAZC 0451 @ 2778MHZ | Scythe Ninja w Delta 120mm FFB1212VHE 152CFM! | DFI LP NF3 250GB Bios Tmod 6/23 | 2x512MB OCZ PC4000 Gold VX 252 FSB @ 2-2-2-7 | X-Navigator Case | OCZ Powerstream 520W | X-Fi Fatal1ty | BFG 6800GT 415/1100 | 200GB Seagate 7200 | 40 GB Western Digital 7200 | 80GB Samsung 7200 | 3D Glasses | BenQ 1625 Lightscribe |Super Talent Active Ram Cooler |Logitech MX518| Ratzpad GS|Sennheiser HD 212 Pro

Thanks Luis for the nice type up. BTW, what firmware is your 3D Glasses? :)

Yes indeed! My pc is my HTPC, my gaming pc, my music creation pc...you name it.
On the 854x480 topic....as Jason said, dont worry too much about it...it is more of a "YES I DID IT!" thing than a "WOW LOOK AT THE DIFFERENCE!". Yes you get a few extra pixels but clarity is still the same I think even though I think it looks a bit sharper at 854 but that is more than likely, the power of placebo working on me.

For ffdshow users, here are my settings:

Here are my FFDSHOW settings in the order they are setup:

Crop : TOP 56 Borrom 56 (depends on the dvd ratio)
Avysinth : ColorMatrix() this is complex as it involves other stuff installation.
Sharpen : asharp, High Quality checked, unsharp masking threshold .52 and the other two parameters at 0.
Warpsharp : chroma mode NONE, blur mode high quality 3 pass, DEPTH= 64 , Threshold= .99, Blur = 0
RESIZE : Mutiply by 4, No aspect correction checked, Lanczos = 2, luma sharpen = .91, chroma sharpen = 0

As you can see I dont use noise reducers because they ALWAYS, no matter how little, make you lose some detail and thats something I cant afford at 9' wide.

Resize by 4 is pretty demanding on CPU so depending on your system you may have to change that and then compensate by lowering sharpness too.

Here are my PCs specs:
thlon64 3400 Newcastle LBAZC 0451 @ 2778MHZ | Scythe Ninja w Delta 120mm FFB1212VHE 152CFM! | DFI LP NF3 250GB Bios Tmod 6/23 | 2x512MB OCZ PC4000 Gold VX 252 FSB @ 2-2-2-7 | X-Navigator Case | OCZ Powerstream 520W | X-Fi Fatal1ty | BFG 6800GT 415/1100 | 200GB Seagate 7200 | 40 GB Western Digital 7200 | 80GB Samsung 7200 | 3D Glasses | BenQ 1625 Lightscribe |Super Talent Active Ram Cooler |Logitech MX518| Ratzpad GS|Sennheiser HD 212 Pro

Hope that helps you. Some of the settings are probable not doing much but since it was looking so good I decided not to mess with it anymore.
Regards

There you have it, HTPC in all it's glory, and the results look amazing. Well done, Luis, you've clearly put a lot into getting that great dvd image.

Unfortunately for me, not an option at this point, so I'll have to stick to a dvd player. . .

"The way is difficult, but the rewards glorious."

Wes

My 4805's screen is flashing a tiny bit of white like a flash on a camera just more slight for a blink of an eye randomly throughout anything being shown on the screen. I didn't adjust any settings and for a week before this it was fine. I turned white peaking all the way to 0 and it seems to have quit. But right now I am within the 30 day return and I am scared that it is hardware related. What do you guys think?

Hmmm, I would send it in to get it checked out and at least have it professionally looked at.

My 4805's screen is flashing a tiny bit of white like a flash on a camera just more slight for a blink of an eye randomly throughout anything being shown on the screen. I didn't adjust any settings and for a week before this it was fine. I turned white peaking all the way to 0 and it seems to have quit. But right now I am within the 30 day return and I am scared that it is hardware related. What do you guys think?

What firmware are you running ? Check the "About" menu...

anybody ever have issues with getting your 4805 repaired
i sent mine over a month ago(nov 2) and they still know when it will be completed
alexander at the tech. dept explained to me that the needed parts were out of stock
he did offer an exchange for a "like new" refrub unit but they also seem to be out of stock at the minute
been without the projector for the last month is killing me!

I am pretty sure any of the 62mm ND2 filters will work, with none of the extra frills being necessary for this application. I searched all of the camera stores in my town and found 1 store that had 1 ND2 left. It was a plain-jane ND2 from Hoya. I am pleased with the results. People don't seem to use filters as much with the advent of digital photography. As a result, it may be that the only ND2 filters Hoya is producing or shipping are the higher end ones, and I just bought old stock. If you can get a cheaper one without the HMC or Super designations, it should be all you require. If the HMC Super is all that is available to you, order it and then judge the results for yourself! If you are happy with the result, then it worked!

I don't think neutral density filters fade over time, but the light is bright and that may occur. the *real* reasons for pricing have mostly to do with optical quality of the glass and whether or not it has an anti reflective coating (or multicoating MC). The coatings are very important for photography but I am not sure that there is *any* benefit in our application. I am currently using a quantaray (Ritz/wolf photo house brand) 55mm ND2 filter with some thick rubber bands around the outside to help it fit into the lens ring. It works fine, has no coatings, and cost 12 bucks. (this is a temporary setup, I am not sure it is as secure as the 62mm are, but its been there for 4 days and hasn't fallen out yet!) Mark

Thanks for the kind words Wes. hopefully someone else will benefit from my long tweking hours and wife issues! lol
I always forgot to remove the 3d glasses from my sig..it makes me look bad :D

What firmware are you running ? Check the "About" menu...

Ok since you asked that I found the petition signing thread and read all through it. What I am worried about is that I will get past my 30 day return and it will be found out that it is a hardware problem not a firmware issue. And honestly I can't afford to eat the price of this projector. Should I just return the damn thing or should I keep it and hope for the best?

Ok since you asked that I found the petition signing thread and read all through it. What I am worried about is that I will get past my 30 day return and it will be found out that it is a hardware problem not a firmware issue. And honestly I can't afford to eat the price of this projector. Should I just return the damn thing or should I keep it and hope for the best?

You should send it to IF for repair. Just make sure you are VERY specific in relating the problem to them so that they can recreate it.

anybody ever have issues with getting your 4805 repaired
i sent mine over a month ago(nov 2) and they still know when it will be completed
alexander at the tech. dept explained to me that the needed parts were out of stock
he did offer an exchange for a "like new" refrub unit but they also seem to be out of stock at the minute
been without the projector for the last month is killing me!


They are very fast at repairing stuff and Alexander is great. I would think your delay is truly due to a part that they do not have.

I don't think neutral density filters fade over time, but the light is bright and that may occur. the *real* reasons for pricing have mostly to do with optical quality of the glass and whether or not it has an anti reflective coating (or multicoating MC). The coatings are very important for photography but I am not sure that there is *any* benefit in our application. I am currently using a quantaray (Ritz/wolf photo house brand) 55mm ND2 filter with some thick rubber bands around the outside to help it fit into the lens ring. It works fine, has no coatings, and cost 12 bucks. (this is a temporary setup, I am not sure it is as secure as the 62mm are, but its been there for 4 days and hasn't fallen out yet!) Mark

The 62mm fits just perfect. What a world of difference it makes.

Ok since you asked that I found the petition signing thread and read all through it. What I am worried about is that I will get past my 30 day return and it will be found out that it is a hardware problem not a firmware issue. And honestly I can't afford to eat the price of this projector. Should I just return the damn thing or should I keep it and hope for the best?

Try the old firmware and see if it goes away, if it does then it's not the hardware.

New and recent owners, Twisacatz


I'm asking for a small favor. I just spoke with an Infocus rep. regarding the slight early crazing of my bulb (at 20 hours). Crazing, for those unfamiliar with the term is when the reflective material on the inside of the bulb starts cracking and peeling away.

Examples:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=20530
Mine is similar to this, but slightly less.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=46950
This image is of Twisacatz 4805 recently. Twisacatz, if you have info regarding what Infocus is doing please respond.

Infocus told me this is mostly normal with all bulbs? I've read the NEC thread where some had a similar problem(and was considered a problem), but others had no crazing even at 800 hours.

The favor I ask is if any of you new owners, or anyone, can check your bulbs and see if it really is widespread normal. My color wheel has also discolored a little too in the week that I've had this.

Any help greatly appreciated.

I only have about 2 hours on mine. I checked it and it looks brand new. Also very clean inside the bulb compartment, no dust or anything.

My bulb has about 600 hours on it and is due for a filter cleaning here soon. I'll snap some pics when I perform the filter cleaning.

In my previous filter cleanings though, i have never noticed anything abnormal with the bulb.

When viewing a scene in which the camera pans horizontally I see a stutter. This is using my JVC XVN412S DVD player sending 480i to the 4805. An example is the opening scene of LOTR: TT when you are cruising above the snow covered mountains. Instead of a smooth pan I see a sort of herky jerky pan (sorry for that technical language). It almost seems like frames are getting dropped.

Question 1 -- do you see this as as well? Is it a DVD player issue, or a 4805 deinterlacing issue? (or something else)

I was hoping that by switching to TT 2.2 with an nVidia 6800 I would enjoy stutter free pans. I just read, however, that some TT 2.2 people are getting stuttering too and some are attribuitng it to PCs with hyperthreading technology.

Question 2 -- do you have an HyperThreading PC runnning to your 4805 and, if so, do you see video stuttering on horizontal pans?

Thanks,

Dan

Scottwood2 - How about some pictures of this mount in your gallery? I'm about to do a similar thing except that my wall goes through to attic space. I'd love to see how it looks. I checked out your gallery but no mount pictures.

-Redbird

Will try to take a few pics in the next few days.

I have asked this in the past, but never got a clear answer...Does anyone recommend OR NOT recommend the ND2 with a 106" screen? I know they're always recommended for under 100", but I don't want to buy the filter for no reason (particularly since every penny diverted to the PJ is a penny that I can't put toward Carvel or some food item that I really don't need).

Adamesq,

Depends on your screen gain, at 106 diagonal with a 1.0 gain like BOC your at 18ft/l with a new bulb in low. 1.3 gain your at almost 24 ft/l and an ND2 would be useful for a little while until the bulb dims to much. Check out the Infocus calculator:
http://www.infocus.com/service/sp4805/downloads/ScreenPlay%204805%20calculator%20with%20screen%20brightness. xls

Unless your using a higher gain screen you might not need it, or only need it with a fresh bulb for a few hundred hours. Ideal is 12ft/l, but you may want more if using in ambient light.



Thanks to those also checking on your bulbs.

Thanks for the info on the screws my wife just got me one of these as a gift and now I can hang it up.

Thanks for the info on the screws my wife just got me one of these as a gift and now I can hang it up.

Cool WAF!

Adamesq,

Depends on your screen gain, at 106 diagonal with a 1.0 gain like BOC your at 18ft/l with a new bulb in low. 1.3 gain your at almost 24 ft/l and an ND2 would be useful for a little while until the bulb dims to much. Check out the Infocus calculator:
http://www.infocus.com/service/sp4805/downloads/ScreenPlay%204805%20calculator%20with%20screen%20brightness. xlsI'm looking at a 106" Da-Lite HCMW screen with 1.1 gain.

Is there something like an ND1.5 filter?

Is there something like an ND1.5 filter?

I asked the same thing a while back. I don't think there is. It would be cool to be able to adjust as the bulb dims.

Hello,
I'm new to this forum and was looking for a bit of advise please.
I recently got my Infocus 4805 installed and was thrilled with the
quality of the picture I was getting.However I have a slight
problem now.I think its a pixel problem,when I'm watching
a dvd if there is a scene in daylight I'm seeing small dots
all over the screen which I presume are the pixels.Could anybody
advise on how to get rid of these? Do I have to change the picture
settings? Thanks.

I have a brand new sp4805 on its way to me right now. I am wondering if anyone can recommend a good DVD player for $100 or less (I spent most of my money on the projector and can't spare much more). I've read through a lot of this forum and seen many suggestions, but just wondered if there is any one DVD player that would do best for this projector. Thanks for any help.

PWEI,
you will have to describe the issue better. You will see screen door effect in light sceens if you are close to the screen. This is the actual pixel structure, and looks like a window or door screen is laid over the movie screen. if you sit 2 times the distance of your screens width you shouldn't notice it much. I sit in the 1.5 time range, and it's not too bad. It could be some kind of video noise?

Anjinson,

check out the DVD forum. I'm using a Sansung hd841(analog). Refurbished models can be found around $50. Refurbs also may have had some previous issues taken care of.

I have a brand new sp4805 on its way to me right now. I am wondering if anyone can recommend a good DVD player for $100 or less (I spent most of my money on the projector and can't spare much more). I've read through a lot of this forum and seen many suggestions, but just wondered if there is any one DVD player that would do best for this projector. Thanks for any help.

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Philips-DVD-Player-DVP642-/sem/rpsm/oid/100066/catOid/-12872/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do

Calibrate your 4805 to the player and run at 480i.

OK Brian...... I think I was doing it wrong. I was trying to use the ADD button to type in a new custom setting.

But now this gets stranger........... I don't GET the advanced timings button when on the 4805 - only when I'm on the little monitor. When I'm on the 4805, I only get the ADD / REMOVE buttons? What's up with that??

Yes I have seen that little quirk too. Usually exiting out and back in will fix it. If not, try saving the standard 800x600, then exiting, then back in. And no you can't use the add button unfortunately. Trying just changing 848 to 854 AND changing to 72 hz. Thats works for me. The Nvidia panel changes to 856 (that damn number thats confusing the hell out of everyone) but the projector will report the 854x480 at 71.

Let us know if it works.....

Kras did not take the bait on what 720 machine he would buy today dang it.

And my OCD with the 854 Jason is that it looks sharper on my patterns WITHOUT ffdshow thrown in the mix but TT wacks out with it. Guess I will go play with Luis ffsdshow settings now to satisfy my insatiable desires. :)

I think its a pixel problem,when I'm watching
a dvd if there is a scene in daylight I'm seeing small dots
all over the screen which I presume are the pixels

This is most likely just a calibration issue. Have a look HERE (http://japhule.collinsreport.com/4805FAQ/html/index.html) for a very good start on calibration.

Throw Distance Help. I have my HT setup with a 92" diag. draper screen with projector setting on my old target stereo stand. (4th shelf up) at around 14.3-14.5 feet from the screen. It does not fill the whole screen, missing only an inch at top and sides and I have it fully zoomed.

According to Proj. Central I should be able to fill the whole 16:9 aspect screen from 11.8 ft at full zoom and 14.2 ft with just std throw. I have the DVD set to 16:9 (Tried the 4:3 setting also) and I have the 4805 set to native, but have found the letterbox to give me the largest pic when watching widescrren DVD's.

Component input

PS. I rented the star wars I disk and can not find the THX optomizer in the options screen. Going to try again, but maybe I have an earlier realease (I bought it at a Block Buster blow out sale) that didn't have it and need to get Star Wars II disk.

I'm going to run either 25 ft or 50 ft component cable from DVD player to my 4805. Anyone know if this will result in any quality loss?

Specifically looking at cables available at monoprice.

thanks!

thats what i got star wars 2 where the THX feature is availible on the third episode i can,t find it either.......


p.s. just follow the steps required in the program and the pic looks spot on to me.....

So, do I turn the unit off with the supplied remote and THEN completely power off by pulling the plug, OR just pull the plug and let the heat dissipate on its own? If it is the first choice, how long to let the fan run before pulling the plug? Thanks.

PWEI,
you will have to describe the issue better. You will see screen door effect in light sceens if you are close to the screen. This is the actual pixel structure, and looks like a window or door screen is laid over the movie screen. if you sit 2 times the distance of your screens width you shouldn't notice it much. I sit in the 1.5 time range, and it's not too bad. It could be some kind of video noise?
.




Thanks for the quick reply gprro1.I'm using a 74 inch projector screen but I'm basically seeing thousands of little square dots all over the screen no matter how near or far I'm in the room.Its actually got a lot worse since the last time I used the projector.There was only a few the last time but I turned it on today and they were all over the screen.

So, do I turn the unit off with the supplied remote and THEN completely power off by pulling the plug, OR just pull the plug and let the heat dissipate on its own? If it is the first choice, how long to let the fan run before pulling the plug? Thanks.

It's been well documented that it's safe to just pull the plug. I run mine for hours on end (1500+ hours in less than a year) and just turn it off when I'm finished. Have never had a problem.

htr

thats what i got star wars 2 where the THX feature is availible on the third episode i can,t find it either.......


p.s. just follow the steps required in the program and the pic looks spot on to me.....


In the case with all Star Wars disks (main movie not bonus disk) click options off the main menu and then just look for the THX LOGO anywhere. Sometimes they are sneaky and work it into the background picture. It's not usually a menu item on the list.

-W

Thanks for the quick reply gprro1.I'm using a 74 inch projector screen but I'm basically seeing thousands of little square dots

Are they moving around? Looks like thousands of small buggs running around?

I recieved my refurb today. I can not see any crazing, at least not any that looked like the pictures posted in the links previous. There are however many very small black specks that i can see .. albeit one larger speck close to the center that looks like the silver finish from the back of the lamp has flaked off. Not actually sure if this could be considerd crazing or not, but I would like to say that the lamp from my X1 (1.5yrs old and 168hrs) does look considerably more clean. Hope that helps gprro1

Note: This is the first time I've taken the lamp out of the X1 or the 4805, and the later has yet to be hooked up/turned on so I can not at this time tell you the hours on the unit... if any.

Out of curiosity, could the lamp from the X1 be used in the 4805. If so then it may be a good reason to keep the X1... though I may sell it anyway.

Also would the warrenty from Infocus on the lamp be worth the ~90 or so that they want?

Also would the warrenty from Infocus on the lamp be worth the ~90 or so that they want?Depends entirely on how many hours you might put on it. I'm at just over 2,000 in six months - I expect to need a new lamp before the year is up. So for me, I get a $339 lamp for $89. ;)

Thanks for the quick reply gprro1.I'm using a 74 inch projector screen but I'm basically seeing thousands of little square dots all over the screen no matter how near or far I'm in the room.Its actually got a lot worse since the last time I used the projector.There was only a few the last time but I turned it on today and they were all over the screen.

The first 4805 thread is a wealth of knowledge. (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=414103)

Sounds like you need to run some test patterns from an Avia Disc or other calibration disc. (The Incredibles has a THX optimizer on it).

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=4090106&highlight=Dancing+sparklies#post4090106

Sounds like you PJ is set too bright.

Guess I will go play with Luis ffsdshow settings now to satisfy my insatiable desires.
Some how reading my name in the same sentence that you said "satisfy my insatiable desires" made me feel strange... :D

Welcome to the forum!

Let it run for 20 hours or so. My bulb was new I think. it may turn out to be common to have minnor crazing. I know some others had bulbs replaced due to more severe crazing though. I'm keeping a close watch on mine, as it is getting slowly worse every time I use it.

I don't know about X1 and 4805 bulb being compatible? The warranty may be OK, I'm checking if the extended warranty (around $70 I think) from where most of us purchased these will cover bulbs.

Depends entirely on how many hours you might put on it. I'm at just over 2,000 in six months - I expect to need a new lamp before the year is up. So for me, I get a $339 lamp for $89.

Thanks cavu I appriciate the timely reply, but could you clarify for me please. I was under the impression that there had to be something wrong with the lamp to replace it not just have a lot of hours on it. Do you expect your lamp to go out within the year do to so many hours of use?

gprro1, thanks. Been around a little while , figured I'd join the bandwaggon of newbies;)

I heard about the ext. warranty your looking into from post in another forum, If i recall I think they said it just covered the unit itself not the lamp. Was going to check it out myself but been so busy lately I plum forgot.

Depends entirely on how many hours you might put on it. I'm at just over 2,000 in six months - I expect to need a new lamp before the year is up. So for me, I get a $339 lamp for $89. ;)11 hours a day? :eek:

Yes I have seen that little quirk too. Usually exiting out and back in will fix it. If not, try saving the standard 800x600, then exiting, then back in. And no you can't use the add button unfortunately. Trying just changing 848 to 854 AND changing to 72 hz. Thats works for me. The Nvidia panel changes to 856 (that damn number thats confusing the hell out of everyone) but the projector will report the 854x480 at 71.

Let us know if it works.....


Nope... after 3 clean installs of the drivers and trying every which way, I can't get that button to appear on the 4805 display. It appears just fine on the little monitor on the VGA port.

What are your display settings? Single display (at a time)? Is the little one primary? I'm wondering if it's a 5700 thing or what at this point??

-W

11 hours a day?Sounds about right. CNN all day long and movies and/or HDTV in the evenings.

t=414103]The first 4805 thread is a wealth of knowledge.

Yeah it is. My problem is I have actualy read the entire thing over the last year, and after going back and reading some things, I think I forgot a lot of what I read. I keep
looking back to refrence it, but I'm still going to have to ask some questions.

Do you expect your lamp to go out within the year do to so many hours of use?The design life of the lamp is 3,000hrs and I'm doing about 4,000 per year. So I anticipate that the lamp may fail before the year warranty is up.

Based on the cost of the extended lamp warranty, anything better than about a 1 in 4 chance is a win.

after going back and reading some things, I think I forgot a lot of what I read.I have a problem remembering what I read on THIS page. :(

CNN all day longY'know, with the ability to buy a 4805 for barely more than a lamp, I've been considering getting another unit and setting it up to blow a 42" plasma-like image in the kitchen or my office for full-blown daytime use. I can't buy a small screen LCD for that kind of money.

Has anyone tried running such a small screen? What would you use for the screen material?

Hi,

I just bought a 4805, it should be here in a few days. i was looking into that $90 lamp warranty from infocus. Do you know if it is possible to buy the warranty if I didn't buy the 4805 from them, but from one of their authorized dealers?

If yes that would be pretty good and my wife and I can use the projector as our main tv with no worries about the lamp.

Does anyone know if they (even third party) come out with a cost effective bulb replacement option using newer technology for the bulb mechanism? Is there anything in the works in the industry or similarly used elsewhere? I mean, it would be nice for the price to get around $100.00 if not sub $100. Does this price range look practical in the foreseeable future? I just find it hard to believe that no one can produce a bright light technology for a cheaper price rather than the arc-like technology of the current bulb mechanism. Thanks.

Hi,

I just bought a 4805, it should be here in a few days. i was looking into that $90 lamp warranty from infocus. Do you know if it is possible to buy the warranty if I didn't buy the 4805 from them, but from one of their authorized dealers?

If yes that would be pretty good and my wife and I can use the projector as our main tv with no worries about the lamp.
Congrats on your new baby! You are gonna love it! Hopefully someone will answer your warranty question.
Regards

Do you know if it is possible to buy the warranty if I didn't buy the 4805 from them, but from one of their authorized dealers?Yes, you can buy the 1-year extended lamp warranty (http://www.infocus.com/service/service_offerings/americas.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&prog=lamp) from Infocus so long as your lamp is still under warranty.

Even if I didn't buy the projector from infocus directly?

I'll have to check on that, since that sounds like a decent deal. For the amount of tv we watch, i think we can come close to the 3000 mark in 1 year.

Even if I didn't buy the projector from infocus directly?I believe I answered that already. My choices are to repeat myself or suggest that you re-read my original response. I elect the latter.

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/501/screenshot2.JPG

This shot is on a 118" X 50" 2.35 Carada screen 1.4 gain. DVD player - Sony CX995V (400 disk changer). Component cable from DVD player to iScan HD+ @ 480i. From the iScan to the 4805 by DVI - M1 cable @ 480p, 1:1 pixel mapped (854 X 480). Gain 58/offset 28.5, Gamma set to film. All other settings at default. Lamp @ 1200 hrs. Anamorphic lens - Prismasonic H-1000

What are your display settings? Single display (at a time)? Is the little one primary? I'm wondering if it's a 5700 thing or what at this point??

Duel mode. 4805 as the secondary display. I would lay odds it is a 5700 thing. Tell the waf that Brian INSISTED you get a 6600gt at the very least. It is Christmas and all. Time to retire the card. As one last trick, try googling for Coolbits or NvidiaTweak. They are programs that will unlock all the Nvidia controls and MAYBE enable that control...but I'm betting not.

Okay, let me simplify my question from before (as I didn't exactly get a flood of replies) :) . Regardless of your player type, do you get slighly herky jerky horizontal pans when viewing DVDs on the 4805 or do you see silky smooth pans. Perhaps this is a 48hz or pulldown issue?

This shot is on a 118" X 50" 2.35 Carada screen 1.4 gain. DVD player......

Boy, Madonna sure looks alot better on 13" TV than on Willy's set up..... :eek:

Thanks for the quick reply gprro1.I'm using a 74 inch projector screen but I'm basically seeing thousands of little square dots all over the screen no matter how near or far I'm in the room.Its actually got a lot worse since the last time I used the projector.There was only a few the last time but I turned it on today and they were all over the screen.

It sounds like your describing SDE or Screen Door Effect which is visible if you are too close to the screen. How big is the room and what is your seating distance?

If it's not this...this may be an all new report of a new malfunction...in which case you can be very proud and very sad at the same time.

I see Infocus has a sale on the SP-5000, but from what knowledge I have acquired here, even though it has the following specs, it will actually be a step back from the SP-4805. Is this the concensus or is there any reasons or pluses in going to the 1280x720 resolution of this particular PJ? Thanks.

Contrast Ratio 1200:1, Resolution 1280x720 (16:9), 1100 ANSI Lumens
2000 hr lamp, supports 720p / 1035i / 1080i.


The SP-5000 is LCD and the SP-4805 is DLP. How do these compare for HT usage?

I had originally planned on using the 4805 using an S-Video switch box from my computers video card, which I use to watch my DVD's. After more reading, I found out s-video isn't as good as DVI or VGA (hey, newbie alright). But I still want to watch DVD's of my computer. Is this recommended?

Also, do they make extremely long VGI or DVI (the special one for the 4805 in this case) for those of us who ceiling mount our projector?

Sorry if this has been asked, I've only covered about 50 pages of the 615+ pages on the 4805 so far, so bear with me :)

I see Infocus has a sale on the SP-5000, but from what knowledge I have acquired here, even though it has the following specs, it will actually be a step back from the SP-4805. Is this the concensus or is there any reasons or pluses in going to the 1280x720 resolution of this particular PJ? Thanks.

Contrast Ratio 1200:1, Resolution 1280x720 (16:9), 1100 ANSI Lumens
2000 hr lamp, supports 720p / 1035i / 1080i.


The SP-5000 is LCD and the SP-4805 is DLP. How do these compare for HT usage?


A quick forum search would have answered this for you. Please read the following:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=594350&highlight=4805+vs+5000

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=601892&highlight=4805+vs+5000

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=601642&highlight=4805+vs+5000

If you still have questions, use a more specific search. This topic has been beaten to death.

I had originally planned on using the 4805 using an S-Video switch box from my computers video card, which I use to watch my DVD's. After more reading, I found out s-video isn't as good as DVI or VGA (hey, newbie alright). But I still want to watch DVD's of my computer. Is this recommended?

Also, do they make extremely long VGI or DVI (the special one for the 4805 in this case) for those of us who ceiling mount our projector?

Sorry if this has been asked, I've only covered about 50 pages of the 615+ pages on the 4805 so far, so bear with me :)

If your computer does not have a second VGA or DVI output then it is possible to watch DVD's over the s-video. This will yield undesirable results.

If you are determined to use your computer as a source, you should then invest in a new graphics card. The 6600gt is highly recommended as an affordable and quality product. There is an htpc forum for further discussion of this topic.

If upgrading your computer is too expensive or problematic, a sub-$100 DVD player sending 480interlaced over component will still yield noticibly superior results compared to s-video.

"Also, do they make extremely long VGI or DVI (the special one for the 4805 in this case) for those of us who ceiling mount our projector?" Who is they? Many manufacturers produce long-run VGA and DVI cables. Try http://bluejeanscable.com/ , they are often recommended on this forum. Component cables are significantly cheaper over great distances. There are also adapters for M1 to DVI and M1 to HDMI available. They are available from infocus, ebay, and that bluejeanscable store among others.

The search function would have aided you with these questions. It is located in the function bar near the top of the forum, third from the right.

I had originally planned on using the 4805 using an S-Video switch box from my computers video card, which I use to watch my DVD's. After more reading, I found out s-video isn't as good as DVI or VGA (hey, newbie alright). But I still want to watch DVD's of my computer. Is this recommended?

Also, do they make extremely long VGI or DVI (the special one for the 4805 in this case) for those of us who ceiling mount our projector?

Sorry if this has been asked, I've only covered about 50 pages of the 615+ pages on the 4805 so far, so bear with me :)

check monoprice.com for M1-DVI cables.

A quick forum search would have answered this for you. Please read the following:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=594350&highlight=4805+vs+5000

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=601892&highlight=4805+vs+5000

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=601642&highlight=4805+vs+5000

If you still have questions, use a more specific search. This topic has been beaten to death.


Thanks for the links. I'll keep and be happy with my 4805. ;)

Duel mode. 4805 as the secondary display. I would lay odds it is a 5700 thing. Tell the waf that Brian INSISTED you get a 6600gt at the very least. It is Christmas and all. Time to retire the card. As one last trick, try googling for Coolbits or NvidiaTweak. They are programs that will unlock all the Nvidia controls and MAYBE enable that control...but I'm betting not.

Nope..... I'm back to being a proud member of the "848x480 and loving it" club.
At least until they get a driver set that actually does 854x480 on it's own. That whole machine is too old to put anymore into it. I like it as it sits.

Screw the 3 pixels a side, I never liked them much anyway. :D

-W

Hi,

I just bought a 4805, it should be here in a few days. i was looking into that $90 lamp warranty from infocus. Do you know if it is possible to buy the warranty if I didn't buy the 4805 from them, but from one of their authorized dealers?

If yes that would be pretty good and my wife and I can use the projector as our main tv with no worries about the lamp.

Your authorized dealers can sell you the lamp warranty - it is tied to your projector purchase date - I think you have 30d to get it - otherwise you can only tie it to your projector if you buy a warranty with a replacement lamp. And that is what is nice about it - the lamp warranty stays with the projector for a year - so even if you get bad luck on the warranted lamp - your replacement is still covered. It is a new SKU last summer - maybe your dealer needs to update his price sheets? And for your TV usage - there is no maximum hours on the year warranty - only on the 90d default warranty. But you would need to watch the projector as a full time job to run it out in a year - which some on here have already done!

it is tied to your projector purchase date - I think you have 30d to get itActually you can purchase the lamp warranty extension (http://store.infocus.com/escalate/store/CategoryPage?pls=infocus&bc=infocus&cc=Extended+Warranties&clist=017080322b7d&ret=Extended+Warranties&startNum=0&rangeNum=10) up to the day that your existing 90-day warranty expires.

When viewing a scene in which the camera pans horizontally I see a stutter. This is using my JVC XVN412S DVD player sending 480i to the 4805. An example is the opening scene of LOTR: TT when you are cruising above the snow covered mountains. Instead of a smooth pan I see a sort of herky jerky pan (sorry for that technical language). It almost seems like frames are getting dropped.

Question 1 -- do you see this as as well? Is it a DVD player issue, or a 4805 deinterlacing issue? (or something else)

I was hoping that by switching to TT 2.2 with an nVidia 6800 I would enjoy stutter free pans. I just read, however, that some TT 2.2 people are getting stuttering too and some are attribuitng it to PCs with hyperthreading technology.

Question 2 -- do you have an HyperThreading PC runnning to your 4805 and, if so, do you see video stuttering on horizontal pans?

Thanks,

Dan

Dan

It seems extremely strange to me that you would see any stutter at all over 480i, if this is indeed a de-interlacing issue. As you know, faroudja does not need the flags since it is motion-adaptive - so it will use 3:2 regardless if any flag calls for it or not.

Not sure if your player is progressive, but have you tried running it @ 480p. If you still get stutters, then it has to be the player. And I would be amazed if the de-interlacer in your DVD player handles it perfectly. Maybe you found the one scene that actually trips up faroudja! Personally, I've never seen faroudja mess up on any DVD that I have watched.

As for TT, the intial release of 2.2 had some kinks that had to be worked out. Andrew really never informed us if it was a decoder issue with the new 188s - but some people simply copied over the older decoders until the new patch was released (2.2.1) which fixed all the stutter issues. I had stutters until the new patch - now everything is fine.

I'm really not sure about the hyperthreading issue - I'll have to read up on that one. Can't you just turn hyperthreading off?

BTW, I'm switching to an NVidia 6600 GT for Christmas. That 6800 will be awesome. Unfortunately, it is not in the budget for me - I'm building a new HTPC in one of those cool cases!!

Anyone using monoprice component cables over 20 feet? I'm tring to get dialed in soon, using
s-video the image has been just OK.

Does anyone know of a good Universal remote that can replace the 4805 remote functions? I tried using the set-up demo of the Harmony 880, but that remote apparently cannot support channels from both my DirecTV DVR and HDTV OTA tuner and the different inputs into the 4805 and audio receiver in its web config. Is anyone using a OneForAll and got it to map to the 4805 remote?

Here is what I want to do (macro like):
For DVD:
1) Select Source 2 on 4805 (Component)
2) Select DVD on audio receiver
3) Turn off HDTV Tuner
4) Standby Satellite DVR

For Satellite DVR:
1) Select Source 3 on 4805 (S-Video)
2) Select Video 1 on audio receiver
3) Turn off HDTV Tuner
4) Turn on Satellite DVR

For HDTV OTA Tuner:
1) Select Source 1 on 4805 (DVI/M1 port)
2) Select Video 2 on audio receiver
3) Standby Satellite DVR
4) Turn on HDTV Tuner

You get the idea. Would also like to be able to change from LB, Native etc. in any of these modes.

Thanks.

And for your TV usage - there is no maximum hours on the year warranty - only on the 90d default warranty. But you would need to watch the projector as a full time job to run it out in a year - which some on here have already done!

HOWEVER, if you read the lamp warantee with scrutiny, it says that terms and conditions of the original warantee apply. If you read the original warantee carefully on page 48 of the manual, it states that normal degredation is not covered. This should make one wonder if the lamp fails, would they give you a free replacement if it had, say, 2000 hours on it? 3000? What about if it was 11 1/2 months into the warantee, but only had 500 hours? Has anyone actually had to get the replacement personally, and if so, what happened? A real-world experience would be helpful in answering these inquiries with certainty.

Is anyone using a OneForAll and got it to map to the 4805 remote?

Here is what I want to do (macro like):..........

Would also like to be able to change from LB, Native etc. in any of these modes.

If you do JP1 on OneForAll remotes then there is nothing to it. There is an upgrade for the 4805.

I have macro's for most device combinations that I use.

There does not appear to be any discrete commands for the different aspect ratios, only the toggle between them. There are discrete commands for keystone, freeze, and volume that are not on the original remote however.

If you find any code that operates any function on the PJ then I can give you all the advanced codes that you map to whatever button you want using "keymoves". While you can build macro's and add keymoves without JP1, it's a real pain.
Even without JP1, the OneForAll remotes usually can do more than the owner's guides tell you that you can do.

HOWEVER, if you read the lamp warantee with scrutiny, it says that terms and conditions of the original warantee apply. If you read the original warantee carefully on page 48 of the manual, it states that normal degredation is not covered. This should make one wonder if the lamp fails, would they give you a free replacement if it had, say, 2000 hours on it? 3000? What about if it was 11 1/2 months into the warantee, but only had 500 hours? Has anyone actually had to get the replacement personally, and if so, what happened? A real-world experience would be helpful in answering these inquiries with certainty.

Rut Roh, reading the original warranty carefully (Normal degredation), including the very, very fine print can save some $$ and hassles. It would have been nice if it were worded, "any PJ or any PJ lamp failure during the 12 month period" would have been best.

Well back to watching sd tv on my old toshiba 61" rptv or my 32" proview hdtv and saving the PJ for DVD, HDTV specials, special event parties and select football games. That will keep me between 800-1K bulb hours a year. :)

Actually, I have had since the end of August and have a whopping 78 hours on it, but I enjoyed every minute so far. Latest movie was March of the Penguins and Stars Wars 1 to do the THX optimizer adjustment. This coming weekend will be Star Wars II and III. (Haven't seen them yet either) Probably put another 12 hours on it. :D AH, Fed Ex just broughy me the M1 to DVI cables with some others I ordered. Maybe put another 4 hours on that bulb by this weekend.

HOWEVER, if you read the lamp warantee with scrutiny, it says that terms and conditions of the original warantee apply. If you read the original warantee carefully on page 48 of the manual, it states that normal degredation is not covered. This should make one wonder if the lamp fails, would they give you a free replacement if it had, say, 2000 hours on it? 3000? What about if it was 11 1/2 months into the warantee, but only had 500 hours? Has anyone actually had to get the replacement personally, and if so, what happened? A real-world experience would be helpful in answering these inquiries with certainty.

Here is Infocus marketing flyer on it - it is my understanding it covers burn-outs. The 90d warranty has a >500hr exclusion - the 1yr warranty specifically does not. Of course you would have to use it eight hours a day to suffer burn-out at rated life - so obviously the bean counters did their math and figured not everyone will do that. But if you plan on doing this - it is worth giving up a handful of DVDs to get that extra lamp - and for preventing $$$ loss at a blow-out it is cheap insurance.

http://krasmuzik.home.comcast.net/SP_lamp_warranty_eu.pdf


And cavu was correct - you have 30d to register the lamp warranty when you buy it - but up to 90d to buy it. This is not a profit making Circuit Shack store warranty - Infocus offers it because they cannot do anything about lamps burning out - they don't make lamps - but they were willing to print up an extra warranty to spread the costs of replacements around in the interest of customer service. I personally suggested they raise the price of all projectors $50 and make 1yr warranty standard - but they don't always take my suggestions.

If you do JP1 on OneForAll remotes then there is nothing to it. There is an upgrade for the 4805.

I have macro's for most device combinations that I use.

There does not appear to be any discrete commands for the different aspect ratios, only the toggle between them. There are discrete commands for keystone, freeze, and volume that are not on the original remote however.

If you find any code that operates any function on the PJ then I can give you all the advanced codes that you map to whatever button you want using "keymoves". While you can build macro's and add keymoves without JP1, it's a real pain.
Even without JP1, the OneForAll remotes usually can do more than the owner's guides tell you that you can do.

I was thinking of doing similar macros with my universal remote but I ended up keeping the 4805 commands out of the loop. The problem I have with this is if the 4805 is on standby, selecting a source will automatically power up the 4805. I use more than one display in my room. If the 4805 was my only display, I'd do macros.

Dang Kras....all those posts on LAMP WARRENTIES and you cant tell me what 720 Projector you would buy today with your own bucks? Dang man. Gee Wiz. Shoot. Heck fire.

(I don't give up easy...just ask DGP)

New and recent owners, Twisacatz


I'm asking for a small favor. I just spoke with an Infocus rep. regarding the slight early crazing of my bulb (at 20 hours). Crazing, for those unfamiliar with the term is when the reflective material on the inside of the bulb starts cracking and peeling away.

Examples:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=20530
Mine is similar to this, but slightly less.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=46950
This image is of Twisacatz 4805 recently. Twisacatz, if you have info regarding what Infocus is doing please respond.

Infocus told me this is mostly normal with all bulbs? I've read the NEC thread where some had a similar problem(and was considered a problem), but others had no crazing even at 800 hours.

The favor I ask is if any of you new owners, or anyone, can check your bulbs and see if it really is widespread normal. My color wheel has also discolored a little too in the week that I've had this.

Any help greatly appreciated.

No crazing here. Bulb at about 600 hours. (Sorry for the blurry pics, dang auto focus)

Steve/Ja Phule thanks for the reply. Indeed I am investigating the JP1 stuff and thinking about getting the OFA 9910 (is this a recommended one? how do you rate OFA remotes in general?). I have not thought about the 4805 on standby, but since it is the only display in the room for me then I would not have any issues.

Also, I would not need to worry about the volume on the PJ since I am using a HT receiver for sound. Steve, I would definitely appreciate the 4805 advance codes and any other macros you may have. I did find the InFocus-SP4805.rmdu and hope that this will be a good starting point.

If you do JP1 on OneForAll remotes then there is nothing to it. There is an upgrade for the 4805.

I have macro's for most device combinations that I use.

There does not appear to be any discrete commands for the different aspect ratios, only the toggle between them. There are discrete commands for keystone, freeze, and volume that are not on the original remote however.

If you find any code that operates any function on the PJ then I can give you all the advanced codes that you map to whatever button you want using "keymoves". While you can build macro's and add keymoves without JP1, it's a real pain.
Even without JP1, the OneForAll remotes usually can do more than the owner's guides tell you that you can do.

I concur, the One for All remotes are excellent. With a JP1 cable you can program it to do it almost anything.

I was able to download upgrades for my Dish 942 DVR, X-1, and a Nakamichi receiver that some remotes don't even have codes for, not to mention my x1 and Nak remotes were broken so I couldn't use the learn function. I can power all my components up or down with one button. Plus a home theatre mode, so you can have the volume buttons control the receiver, channel and number buttons and transport buttons control the Satellite DVR. Then when I want to watch a DVD push a button that turns on the DVD switches the input on projector and receiver, and the transport buttons now control DVD while the volume buttons still control the receiver. plus I like that it has hard buttons so you can run everything by feel and memory, rather than looking at a screen on the remote. And an X10 module to remotely control the projector power. And we are talking about a 2 digit cost.

Zaphod, I just downloaded your 4805 upgrade. Thanks for uploading it. Tomorrow, UPS should deliver my warranty exchange 4805 to replace my X1 that had a stuck mirror.

Are the Kameleon OFA also JP1 compatible? They look slick and also like a battery hog, but I am thinking of getting the 9964 and using re-chargeables.

Bullfrog - Which X10 (IR or RF) module are you using to power the 4805?

Elfman,

Thanks for the images, got any looking into the inside of the reflector through the small window? I was starting to thing crazing is normal.

I will say I haven't been super impresed with my 4805 yet. Im still getting some component cables, and am working on a good DIY (semi-light fusion), that hopefully will cure my lack of sharpness on anything from the mid to background in scenes. I can't imagine getting an Nd filter though as I feel the image is already a little dark, or lacking dark detail. I have done a THX calibration, but DVE is also in order. Or maybe I just got a bum unit? Find out soon.

tradewinds and Bullfrog, the rmdu has all of the commands that I could find and I searched all available EFC's, one at a time.

tradewinds, advanced codes are the EFC listings in the rmdu file. You can enter them by pressing "set:setup" followed by the three digits but you need a partially working code first. I don't know if there are any built-in codes that will match the needed NEC1/Dev 135/SubDev 78 protocol that is needed to start with.

The 9910 (with RF extender?) and 8910 are very popular "out of the box" JP1 remotes. All you need is the cable and since both are learning remotes you can duplicate almost anything. Some of the Kameleons may be JP1 but many are JP1.1 or 1.2 which have not been reverse engineered yet.

Macros have to be built up for the specific components in use, using as many discrete codes as possible. (A discrete might be something like a "power-on" that will not power-off when sent a second time) Usually trying to start out with everything in perfect multi-control is like running before you can crawl. First you need to get all of your devices working with the codes either built-in or added via upgrade. Then you add "keymoves" to correct any anomilies with the button functions. Finally you can automate operation with macros.

From this list it looks like the 9960 is compatible but I need to get a "pogo?" thingy to go get to the interface for JP1.

http://www.diygadget.com/jp1/remotechart.php

Are the Kameleon OFA also JP1 compatible? They look slick and also like a battery hog, but I am thinking of getting the 9964 and using re-chargeables.

Bullfrog - Which X10 (IR or RF) module are you using to power the 4805?

Kameleons are sort of an anomaly to me. The whole point of a universal remote to me is being able to command everything all at once, without interuption, with one device. Since the KAM has no "buttons", you always have to look at the remo and away form the screen to know what you're doing. And it eats batteries like no other, regardless of type. The 8910/9910 are fantastic, and upgrades are easy, just call OFA and they upgrade over the phone via a built-in modem. They should be able to download you the initial codes for the 4805 there, and then you can either "teach" the remo by hand or JP1. Either way is pretty easy, but "teaching" gives you the option of putting the desired controls on the buttons you want, rather than a predetermined position.

Spyder696969......I agree, however I think the KAM also has the modem built in. I am also contemplating the point about no physical buttons but truly I think this is something that can be overcome. I see that there is a way to use WAV files via the modem and therefore no real need for a JP1 cable. I think I'll give this model a try, if it does not work out I'll out I can always put it up on eBay and get the 8910/9910.

Just buy your rechageable batteries in packs of 28 with 7 chargers to keep it powered for the week and you'll be OK. ;)

Funny, some say they have not changed battery in six months. I wonder if that is with the motion sensor turned off. That may be the first thing I will do.

Anyone using monoprice component cables over 20 feet? I'm tring to get dialed in soon, using
s-video the image has been just OK.

I am running 50' componant cables by them, everthing seems to be just fine. No interferance that I can see. They are insolated and seem to be very good for the price. I say give them a try at this price.

I have been having problems getting my DVD player to produce 480i, It's a progressive DVD player. I can't seem to disable the progressive to run 480i to my 4805. I am using the Toshiba SD3800 DVD player. Is this a junk DVD player?
I am getting a great picture, but wonder if it would be better w/ the 4805 handling the interlacing. I am getting very frustrated. I have tried many things and the about menu still says 480p on the 4805. Please help w/ any suggestions. Has anyone else had this problem?

and there i was scrolling back to back to back looking for the old Official 4805 infocus...
I didn´t saw the new 4805 sticky :)

It´s been a long time... now the xbox 360 it´s out.. i want to look some screens... where are they?

Ps, Luis, those pictures from page 9 are amazing... really amazing..

OK, copied this post to this thread :)

I am seeing something on the picture from my infocus 4805 that I hadn't noticed before.

It is as if a part of the image is shifted a small bit- like a line is moving up the screen.
the right side of the screen shows a small indent, which gets translated all of the way across the screen. It looks kind of like this:

----------------------------------<


Then it scrolls up the screen, and repeats over an over. Note that I don't mean an actual line, more of a distortion (like if you used a smudge tool in a photo editor)

I have about a 30' long run of shielded component cables running to the projector. Any ideas what might be causing this?

Thanks,

-jamie

It's a ground loop. Search it on the old forum. There's a ton of info on it.

It's a ground loop. Search it on the old forum. There's a ton of info on it.

Sorry to have wasted anyones time. I stuck in one of those 3 -> 2 prong adapter things, and it went away. Thank you!

Good luck jrs...I just moved into my house 2 weeks ago (it's brand new) and I've been chasing a ground loop ever since. Nasty little bugger...

I've been using a Harmony(Logitech now) 659 remote, flawlessly. 4805, SA8300, Denon AVR, Denon CD, Toshiba DVD. Soon it will handle my new IR controlled lighting when I get around to putting that it. For the price, Harmony is nice unit.

I've been using a Harmony(Logitech now) 659 remote, flawlessly. 4805, SA8300, Denon AVR, Denon CD, Toshiba DVD. Soon it will handle my new IR controlled lighting when I get around to putting that it. For the price, Harmony is nice unit.


Did you do any PL1 or just web wiz and learning? Thanks.

Sorry to have wasted anyones time. I stuck in one of those 3 -> 2 prong adapter things, and it went away. Thank you!

This is NOT the way to fix your problem! What you have done with the adapter is not a safe solution. Though it does let you know with some certainty that the issue is a ground-loop, you need to fix the problem itself, not just put a band-aid on it. There is a ton of info on this in the first thread. (And since you used this unsafe fix first, I don't consider it a waste of everyone's time that you posted...no legitimate question is a waste).

I've been using a Harmony(Logitech now) 659 remote, flawlessly. 4805, SA8300, Denon AVR, Denon CD, Toshiba DVD. Soon it will handle my new IR controlled lighting when I get around to putting that it. For the price, Harmony is nice unit.
wow that works?..
tell me more about it... how do you config the stuff on the projector for example, who had specially functions on the remote... i doubt the harmony does have it?..

Also, i have a Logitech 680, do you think the harmony will handle the audio system as well?...

Feedback will be appreciate, i was looking ofr a universal controler but i doubt it will handle my philips tv, my projector, and my logitetch 680 audio system on 1 remote...

too good to be true.

Well, I am a little bummed. I bought a 4805 at Circuit city and have been using it in place of my X1 for a little over a week now. It's on a ceiling mount and not up against any walls. The picture is just spectacular with an ND2 filter (my screen is HCCV 60" wide) but the problem is the projector spends a significant amount of time with the fan in a "higher power" mode, the lamp is set to low power. It's significantly louder than my X1 during these times and since the projector is only about 3 feet above our heads it's just too much... I am gonna have to eat the 15% restocking fee and forgo the 18 months no interest payment plan too. :( I am going to miss the beautiful colors... Mark

the problem is the projector spends a significant amount of time with the fan in a "higher power" mode, the lamp is set to low power.This represents a problem with the projector. It is definitely not normal operation. Swap the unit out or get it repaired under warranty.

I am gonna have to eat the 15% restocking fee and forgo the 18 months no interest payment plan too. I am going to miss the beautiful colorsThat reaction is a little excessive, isn't it?

On the other hand, if you're that fickle or ditsy and can afford the 15% - seeya!

This represents a problem with the projector. It is definitely not normal operation. Swap the unit out or get it repaired under warranty.

That reaction is a little excessive, isn't it?

On the other hand, if you're that fickle or ditsy and can afford the 15% - seeya!

Well.. hmm.. so you *think* it's a defective unit. That might be helpful in terms of my problem. Name calling... I don't think that's helpful, but I suppose that wasn't your intent.

Yes, it might be defective, but it's not always in this higher power fan mode and if I send in for repairs or warantee work then there will be no way for me to return it if it is deemed OK. Will you refund my money if that turns out to be the case?

Honestly, even when it's quiet it's still arguable if it's quieter than my X1 and since it's really close to our heads this is a significant issue. I don't want to return it and the 15% is significant. I have stuggled with this for the last few days

Assuming there is adequate ventilation around the unit, it should NEVER go into hi-power fan mode when in low power bulb mode. Therefore it IS defective. Send it in for repair or retun it for a new one. Real simple.

-W

I don't think that's helpful, but I suppose that wasn't your intent.You posted a rant - you didn't ask for help.

You posted a rant - you didn't ask for help.

Well I am sorry you missed my post which is in this thread... Japhul was nice enough to reply but no one else really did. I am not certain that it is out of what would be considered "spec".

Well I am sorry you missed my post which is in this thread... Japhul was nice enough to reply but no one else really did.I saw your post. Ja Phule asked you a question about ventilation and you never responded.

I am not certain that it is out of what would be considered "spec".But, to that point, Ja Phule and Clams Canino and I have all indicated that this is not normal. If you were to scan the 20,000 messages on this board about the SP4805 you will not find anyone else who feels that this is normal either. I have purchased 8 of these projectors and have never seen the fan run at high speed when the lamp is on low power!

But you, for some reason, apparently think this operation is "in spec" - whatever you mean by that.

So, either do as we have suggested:Swap it out for another unit or get it repaired! orQuit whining about it.Your complaint is irrelevant if you are not prepared to do anything about it. Circuit City and Infocus will both stand behind the unit if you can muster the effort to bring it to their attention.

Well.. hmm.. so you *think* it's a defective unit. That might be helpful in terms of my problem. Name calling... I don't think that's helpful, but I suppose that wasn't your intent.

Yes, it might be defective, but it's not always in this higher power fan mode and if I send in for repairs or warantee work then there will be no way for me to return it if it is deemed OK. Will you refund my money if that turns out to be the case?

Honestly, even when it's quiet it's still arguable if it's quieter than my X1 and since it's really close to our heads this is a significant issue. I don't want to return it and the 15% is significant. I have stuggled with this for the last few days

I'm trying to figure out what response anybody here could give you that you would deem satisfactory. :confused: You seem to be digging for something but I can't figure out what it is. If you want to return the unit, do so. It's no sweat off anybody's back here, only your own. If you are looking for help, then don't dismiss people when they give it to you. Just because it isn't the answer you wanted doesn't mean it's the wrong answer.

I'm trying to figure out what response anybody here could give you that you would deem satisfactory. :confused: You seem to be digging for something but I can't figure out what it is. If you want to return the unit, do so. It's no sweat off anybody's back here, only your own. If you are looking for help, then don't dismiss people when they give it to you. Just because it isn't the answer you wanted doesn't mean it's the wrong answer.

Well TakeFlight, I am not sure that name calling is really what I consider to be help. Usually I consider being called "ditsy" of "Fickle" to be somewhat negative, but that's just me.

cavu,
I *did* reply to Ja Phule about placement (and it's not against any walls). I don't expect you to dig through this thread to find every post I have made, but then I didn't expect to get flamed by you for my previous post either. I think I would rather not have *your* help if I have to have a serving of insulting remarks with every "tidbit" of information to dole out. Maybe you could just lay off me at this point?

I've tried to do my homework here, and I saw one other post regarding the fan going to high power mode, but not really much. So, perhaps a couple of questions

Is there more than one fan mode? or is it a variable speed with respect to heat function.

Has anyone encountered increase heating having the projector upside down in a ceiling mount.

I don't know for sure but it doesn't seem to me that the "higher fan" mode that I am experiencing is the same as one would experience if the projector lamp is in the high power mode(I will try that tonight)

And as an aside, if I just wanted to return the projector then I would just do it. I didn't get many replys from my earlier posts and I am down to the last day or to before I can return it and I was just hoping that someone might have some insight into this specific problem, *if* it is, in fact a problem.

Well TakeFlight, I am not sure that name calling is really what I consider to be help. Usually I consider being called "ditsy" of "Fickle" to be somewhat negative, but that's just me.

And as an aside, if I just wanted to return the projector then I would just do it. I didn't get many replys from my earlier posts and I am down to the last day or to before I can return it and I was just hoping that someone might have some insight into this specific problem, *if* it is, in fact a problem.

Well, his response might have been excessive, but so was the end of your post that he was specifically responding to. If you feel you want to return it, there is nothing anybody here is going to be able to do to fix the 15% restock fee and 18 months no interest plan.

At the end of the day, you are the one that needs to make the call here on what you do. You seem to be waiting for that perfect response that will magically fix everything. There is only so much troubleshooting that can be done on a message forum. At some point you will have to make the call and either return the projector or live with it or try to get it serviced. If you are coming up on a deadline as far as being able to return it, then only you can make the call as to what you are going to do! Nobody here can help you with that decision.

Is there more than one fan mode?No.or is it a variable speed with respect to heat function.Yes.

Hey all. Just had to share w/ someone that is into this like I am. I got my MM mount set up w/ the cords going in the ceiling. This could not have worked out any better. I am not a DIY type guy, but this was truly pretty simple. Mine looks great and is very functionable. I want to thank all those who offer advise and revolutionary design. MM has helped many here and I appreciate his design. Now I have to figure out how to shut off the progressive signal on my DVD player so I can send 480i to my 4805. Thank you all, and hope to have pictures here soon. Thanks

Some interesting obsevations from watching last night:
Warning: going to be a little long

So far I have been mildly impressed, and sometimes anoyed, by my 4805. I've been tweaking every night with some decent results from time to time. Watched Fantastic Four last night, and after playing with the color gains and offsets by eye, was finaly actualy impressed :) Better detail in colors and over all. (never doubted any of you for a second).

My main issue has been a lack of detail on smaller objects or people and objects that are in mid or background (10-15 feet or further from camera perspective), which I think is being caused by a good amount of dithering? or some other random moving noise in the screen that I think is affecting clarity. After calibration, on the THX BTB screen the I have no movment or noise( looks like a bunch of pixel sized bugs running around) in the black and BTB, but is readily apparent in the gray THX logo and other non black areas. I also see it while watching movies.Up close to the screen you can tell what it is. From viewing distance it looks like dirty or grainy film, and is what I think is responsible for some viewing woes.

After the movie, I decided to watch some TV (digital cable). After eyeballing a calibration, stated flipping some channels. Came across the science channel, which is one of the better digital channels, and was floored by the image( was a show about launching a probe into a comet, some good outer space computer images). Tweaked some brightness and contrast a little, and ended up with a picture that in many ways was better than DVD. The main being great depth detail and a complete lack of noise and the "crawling bugs" I see with DVD's. Basicaly a rock solid image. This is when I decide that the noise, or what ever it is, is what is killing me on DVD

DVD player is a Samsung HD841 over temporary S video or an old Sony(first generation, no BTB) The Benchmark tests indicated that the 841 should be good with analog outs.

My question after all this, is how the hell can I get the DVD image as clean and dithering( if thats what it is) or noise free as the tv image? Or is it even possible?
Is the player responsible? Both my players show the same effect. Cable and DVD are running through same switching box.

Thanks for reading and any thoughts or help you can give.

So did most of you guys revert back to the older firmwares because of the "slight strobe-like pulsings in the picture" in FAQ 7.07? It is quite noticeable on my 4805 that I just got from the Woot deal, and am thinking about doing the downgrade.

Some interesting obsevations from watching last night:
Warning: going to be a little long

My main issue has been a lack of detail on smaller objects or people and objects that are in mid or background (10-15 feet or further from camera perspective), which I think is being caused by a good amount of dithering? or some other random moving noise in the screen that I think is affecting clarity.


Are you sure that's not just a limitation the inherent low resolution of DVDs. I might be wrong but I think that is one area that high def really shines over DVD which is only 720x480 pixels caveat: I may not understand exactly what you mean. Mark

You can't beat BO cloth for value, especially if you're new to front projection. I've been using 92" home built, strectcher bar, BO cloth and still happy with 4805 since July of last year.

I have been using the same (92" home built, stretcher bar, BO cloth and 4805 ) since earlier this year... :D

It still has the ""WOW"" factor, when friends see it for the first and every time they are over.

HH

So did most of you guys revert back to the older firmwares because of the "slight strobe-like pulsings in the picture" in FAQ 7.07? It is quite noticeable on my 4805 that I just got from the Woot deal, and am thinking about doing the downgrade.

I went back to the original firmware. No more pulsing (which was really annoying.. sometimes every couple of seconds when watching a movie). I do still get flicker from time to time, but that is not a function of the firmware and is just the arc of the lamp which is unstable. Going to high mode always fixes this problem (as long as I leave it in high for a while).

NXPlasmid,
Take the unit back and have them at the very least look into it. It's highly doubtful that if you are very specific and tactful in your description of the problem to either CC or IF, that they would not be able to remedy the issue one way or the other. Hopefully, you can express the issue with such grace that they will just give you a replacement. If you go an an instant rant about the matter, you will likely be met with the same response you received here. Mostly, it's not what you say, but how you say it. Civility is a dance that requires both partners to be in harmonious step with one another, particularly when the situation has already struck a "chord" with one person. Lastly, it's not surprizing that you got the response you did here in regard to your rant, since the 4805 is one of the most reliable, time-tested, and beloved PJs of all time. How else do you get over 1 MILLION reads on a single unit? Something to consider as you weigh your options...

Are you sure that's not just a limitation the inherent low resolution of DVDs.

This was regular cable, not high def, so the resolution is lower or similar I think.

Edit: cable is digital, and that channel is one of the best, and may have originated in high def, because it was letterboxed in 4:3. But, still regular cable box.

I went back to the original firmware. No more pulsing (which was really annoying.. sometimes every couple of seconds when watching a movie). I do still get flicker from time to time, but that is not a function of the firmware and is just the arc of the lamp which is unstable. Going to high mode always fixes this problem (as long as I leave it in high for a while).

Sounds good, I'm gonna switch mine back tonight. It consistently pulses, not just randomly, but everytime there is a large swath of darker color on the screen, you can see it, pretty annoying but glad to know it wasn't a defective projector.

[QUOTE= Thank you all, and hope to have pictures here soon. Thanks[/QUOTE] Yes, please post some pictures or give a description of your mount. Thanks

I'm having big trouble using the Component inputs on the 635 for my DVD player and Xbox 360. I think it's a 4805 problem.

Here is some information:

H/K DVD 25
Input: Component DVD, Optical 1
Resolution: 576i for PAL DVD's and 480i for NTSC DVD's.

Xbox 360
Input: Component Video 1, Optical 2.
Resolution: 720p (PAL version).

The are two issues:

1. When switching to the Xbox 360, the picture becomes very dark and it also seems like there's some ghosting. This has only happened a couple of times. The darkness disappears whenswitching to 1081i. Maybe I should just use that resolution.

2. When switching from the DVD input to the Video 1 Component input (Xbox 360), wave like things appear on the screen and moves down the screen. I can play games and the picture looks normal, but the waves are there. It doesn't seem like it matters wich resolution I use before switching to the Xbox 360. They disappear when I switch to one of the other Inputs and back again, so it must be something with the DVD input.

The screen is also scrambled when switching from an interlaced source (DVD player) to a progressive source (Xbox 360). This is fixed by pushing the Auto Image button on the 4805 remote. Could this have anything to do with the problems?

This is quite frustrating, because I upgraded to the 635 to get the component switch. I really don't know where to start looking for a sollution, so I really hope someone can figure out what's causing this, and if it's anything I can do.

Please ask for more information if you need it.

NXPlasmid,
Take the unit back and have them at the very least look into it. It's highly doubtful that if you are very specific and tactful in your description of the problem to either CC or IF, that they would not be able to remedy the issue one way or the other. Hopefully, you can express the issue with such grace that they will just give you a replacement. If you go an an instant rant about the matter, you will likely be met with the same response you received here. Mostly, it's not what you say, but how you say it. Civility is a dance that requires both partners to be in harmonious step with one another, particularly when the situation has already struck a "chord" with one person. Lastly, it's not surprizing that you got the response you did here in regard to your rant, since the 4805 is one of the most reliable, time-tested, and beloved PJs of all time. How else do you get over 1 MILLION reads on a single unit? Something to consider as you weigh your options...

Well, I am going to try to exchange it at CC and see what happens.

I have been a member of these forums for a couple of years and participate regularly in many others and I am sorry but I just can't see my post about returning the 4805 as a "rant". I posted previously about my noise problem, I thought about it long and hard and finally decided that that I should return the unit. To be honest I hadn't thought I could exchange it and I was hoping that I someone might have a useful comment or two. I didn't trash the 4805 in any way. honestly, it's not the quietest projector even without my particular fan problem. I didn't insult anyone. Cavu jumped to conclusions and assumed that was my first post on the subject, that's fine, even this new 4805 thread is massive already. I also posted at the same time a rather glowing review of the 4805 in comparison to my X1 (except for the fan noise). AND I *do* think my post is important whether people think it's a rant or not. Other people might be experiencing the same thing or might in the future and should have access to the knowledge.

But really anyone who wants to discuss this stuff further just PM me, I really don't think it fits under the thread topic.

Mark

DVD player is a Samsung HD841 over temporary S video or an old Sony(first generation, no BTB) The Benchmark tests indicated that the 841 should be good with analog outs.



First thing is to get rid of the s-video cable and go with component. I started out with s-video and had a very disappointing image. As soon as I got a component cable the image was 100% better. How is you digital cable connected?

Phew finally finished reading all these thread. Thanks everyone for the very useful information. I'm in the process of setting up the 4805 with ceiling mount and Im wondering if I can use a long power cable extension to power the pj instead of having electrician setting up a dedicated power source near the pj? Will those long power indoor cable or outdoor cable from HD / electronic store works? Any recommendation?

Thanks.

First thing is to get rid of the s-video cable and go with component.

Yeah, they're on the way. Digital cable is conected as follows: cable into box, S video from cable box into cheap switcher, switcher's output to PJ via stock 4805 S video cable. DVD is running S into the same switcher. I was pretty amazed at the quality for reg. cable, and the lack of the "noise" I was experiencing with DVD. High def must be awsome.


Edit: This channel and one other are the only that look this good. The programs may have originated in high def also as they where letterboxed.. Other channels looked crappy in comparison.

gprro,

Dump the s-video cables BLEECH!!!!

Does your cable box have component out? Do you have HD service in your area? IF you have HD service get that and run component or dvi.

Get yourself a dvd player with dvi out and thank yourself.

gprro1

First of all, do not mess with the gains or offsets unless you are running DVI or HDMI. The 4805 comes pre-tuned to the D65 Hollywood standard - you would need special equipment to get that extra 10%. Keep them at 50s.

If the color seems off to you, that is because you are using the THX optomizer instead of a real calibration disc such as Avia or DVE. I really suggest that you purchase one. Both come with a blue filter that you can use to calibrate color and tint.

Second, there is only one correct setting for each device you use in terms of contrast and brightness. For example, you should calibrate your 4805 to your DVD player and save as a preset. Then calibrate your cable and save as a preset (although some channels send messed up video :rolleyes: ). Calibrate your Xbox, whatever, etc, etc.

So once contrast and brightness are set, specifically for your DVD player, you should not mess with it.

You really should not be able to see any dithering if your seating distance is correct and brightness is properly calibrated. You can search in the old thread for proper BTB calibration - I spent at least a month bugging people here about properly doing it.

Oh, and make sure that color temp is always 6500K, and that gamma is reasonable - crt, film, or video. I use film for everything.

And I hate to tell you this, but I hated that Samsung you own. I did not think it was a very good player. BUT, it should still yield good results - you should be impressed. And with component, that player will upscale - you might like that better.

Well, I am going to try to exchange it at CC and see what happens.

I have been a member of these forums for a couple of years and participate regularly in many others and I am sorry but I just can't see my post about returning the 4805 as a "rant". I posted previously about my noise problem, I thought about it long and hard and finally decided that that I should return the unit. To be honest I hadn't thought I could exchange it and I was hoping that I someone might have a useful comment or two. I didn't trash the 4805 in any way. honestly, it's not the quietest projector even without my particular fan problem. I didn't insult anyone. Cavu jumped to conclusions and assumed that was my first post on the subject, that's fine, even this new 4805 thread is massive already. I also posted at the same time a rather glowing review of the 4805 in comparison to my X1 (except for the fan noise). AND I *do* think my post is important whether people think it's a rant or not. Other people might be experiencing the same thing or might in the future and should have access to the knowledge.

But really anyone who wants to discuss this stuff further just PM me, I really don't think it fits under the thread topic.

Mark

You stated earlier that you have plenty of space around the 4805, but is the unit itself getting sufficient air to keep it from getting hot? Is it away from where it wouldn't get cool air? It's winter and a warm house could get the unit hot making the fan run harder and louder.

Gushy,

I'm moving in a month or so. L.A., so yeah High Def will be on order. I'm just tweaking the DVD player now, and am trying to see if I can get as noise, or dithering, or whatever it is, free picture from dvd as possible. I was just surprised, that even over S Video, the cable feed looked better in some ways.

My hd841 has dvi and upsampling out, dvi can't do BTB though. I have done an HDCP hack so component, which can pass BTB, will also upsample. I have a feeling I'll stick at 480i though.

My components are on the way, so that will help hopefully. I really want the new Snazio, or maybe a D1 for pixel mapping, but I shoudn't spend anymore on HT gear for a while.

gprro1,
Like what everyone else has stated, your issues are related to a few things. Component connection would help. Proper calibration. And most importantly, the quality of your source. Some dvds are grainy to begin with, whether its intentional or bad mastering. Things in the background don't look as sharp? Maybe they're not supposed to. Are things in the foreground clear? If not then you have a problem, but that doesn't seem to be the case. You will still have dithering after proper BTB calibration but it shouldn't be apparent most of the time unless you are sitting very close to the screen. The Incredibles (or any pixar) dvd should look good. Something like Pirates of the Carribean won't look great. You should see how many times people have popped up in AVS thinking something is wrong with their set up because Pirates of the Carribean looks like crap, it's because the dvd doesn't look that great to begin with.

Amen. PotC is a great show, but terrible for judging PJs or any other video source. It looked even worse on my 65" HDTV before that thing got sold.
Just don't try using Glitter or Crossroads or Gigili for your test...or for anything else other than skeet shooting! :D

gprro1

First of all, do not mess with the gains or offsets unless you are running DVI or HDMI. The 4805 comes pre-tuned to the D65 Hollywood standard - you would need special equipment to get that extra 10%. Keep them at 50s.

Yeah, I adjusted very little. My current gray diy screen is pushing green and blue a little, at least to my eyes. The green is 42 at the lowest. blue's 47.

If the color seems off to you, that is because you are using the THX optomizer instead of a real calibration disc such as Avia or DVE. I really suggest that you purchase one. Both come with a blue filter that you can use to calibrate color and tint.

Next purchase!

Second, there is only one correct setting for each device you use in terms of contrast and brightness. For example, you should calibrate your 4805 to your DVD player and save as a preset. Then calibrate your cable and save as a preset (although some channels send messed up video :rolleyes: ). Calibrate your Xbox, whatever, etc, etc.
So once contrast and brightness are set, specifically for your DVD player, you should not mess with it.

Done that also. Wish there was more presets.

You really should not be able to see any dithering if your seating distance is correct and brightness is properly calibrated. You can search in the old thread for proper BTB calibration - I spent at least a month bugging people here about properly doing it.

Maybe It's my brain trying to filter or deal with it, but is noticeable. I've been reading back too, trying to figure it all out. I do see it a little at seating distance, maybe as more of a slight fuzzyness of background. I noticed the difference with the cable channel, as it looked more solid in the backgrounds

Oh, and make sure that color temp is always 6500K, and that gamma is reasonable - crt, film, or video. I use film for everything.

ME too :)

And I hate to tell you this, but I hated that Samsung you own. I did not think it was a very good player. BUT, it should still yield good results - you should be impressed. And with component, that player will upscale - you might like that better.

Now your confirming my fear that this player isn't the greatest with DVD. It's better than my Sony, but the sony is first generation (maybe the second one they released, dinosaur). Really good with cd audio for the money. Stupid good with mods.(coming soon)

Do you think the "noise" I'm complaining about is dithering, or maybe just an aspect of the player. It really looks like thousands of light gray or green pixel sized bugs running around. Really noticeable in blacks if the brightness is set incorectly high.

Thanks for the input.


EDIT: I responded to some of your comments inside the quotes box. :D

Ja Phule,

I guess dithering is a fact of life with dvd. None with cable? Pixar animated films are great, I still see the effect though. Pixar stuff on the Hitachi LCD i was using looked great also. If I owned a home theater shop I would demo with nothing but Pixar, almost not fair compared to some dvd's.

Thanks for the help guys!

DVD player is a Samsung HD841 over temporary S video or an old Sony(first generation, no BTB) The Benchmark tests indicated that the 841 should be good with analog outs.

My question after all this, is how the hell can I get the DVD image as clean and dithering( if thats what it is) or noise free as the tv image? Or is it even possible?
Is the player responsible? Both my players show the same effect. Cable and DVD are running through same switching box.

Thanks for reading and any thoughts or help you can give.

You need a component connection from that dvd player. S video is not going to cut it. Send the 4805 a 480i signal over component. That will make all the difference in the world.

Wes

edit: OK, I see I'm the last one to help here, sorry for the redundant post. . .

Look at Luis' screen shots, though, this pj is totally capable of detail on all levels.

Thanks for all the responses everyone,

I definately need the components. I was just surprised that the cable feed had some better atributes over dvd, even when using only SVideo. Maybe I should get a HTPC, how many more questions can I ask with one of those :D ?

I really want the new Snazio, or maybe a D1 for pixel mappingThere's a D1 and a D2 on ebay at the moment.

New update from Secrets on the Oppo 971. Scores a 98 over DVI. That is the highest score for a dvd player ever on their site and trumps the $3500 Denon 5910. Not bad for a $200 player.

www.hometheaterhifi.com/cgi-bin/shootout.cgi?function=search&articles=124#Oppo%20DigitalOPDV971H%20(DVI)

Ja Phule,

I guess dithering is a fact of life with dvd. None with cable? Pixar animated films are great, I still see the effect though. Pixar stuff on the Hitachi LCD i was using looked great also. If I owned a home theater shop I would demo with nothing but Pixar, almost not fair compared to some dvd's.

Thanks for the help guys!

Dithering is a fact of life in DLP. Due to differences in source and calibration, you may notice dithering in one more than the other.