The infamous quest for 1:1 pixel mapping...

I have two choices... 856 x 480 or 848 x 480

Which is the better choice for pixel mapping?

And why in the world did Infocus have to pick 854 (not divisable by 8)...

Probably 848x480 so that in native mode you will lose 3 columns of pixels on each side. This is the resolution most people can easily get to on their pc with dvi output (getting it to 48hz is another problem). I'm not even sure if 856x480 is supported by the 4805 and if it does, will it crop off 1 column of pixels on each side in native mode?

I don't think Infocus is to blame to support 854x480, I think TI only makes chips in that resolution for EDTV. So blame TI.

856x480 or 848x480Use 848x480; it won't "overscan" or force scaling anywhere.

InFocus didn't pick the number! It's universal ... with a 480 image at 16:9, the width works out to 853.33333 ;)

I realize there is 12.51" vertical offset.So as not to confuse others who aren't paying close attention ... the 12.51" offset only applies to a 92" screen (which has a height of 45"). The offset is not static - it is 27.8% of whatever your image height is. ;)

Probably 848x480 so that in native mode you will lose 3 columns of pixels on each side. This is the resolution most people can easily get to on their pc with dvi output (getting it to 48hz is another problem). I'm not even sure if 856x480 is supported by the 4805 and if it does, will it crop off 1 column of pixels on each side in native mode?


Well, Menu -> Picture -> Aspect Ratio indicates 'Native' while the resolution is set to 856x480, and I've turned off overscan.

I am currently at 60hz... Will have to see what I can do about 48hz.


Use 848x480; it won't "overscan" or force scaling anywhere.


I've had the 'Overscan' button selected for watching TV... I've since turned that off.

Thanks for the insight.... what exactly will the 48hz do for me ?

what exactly will the 48hz do for me ?48Hz (actually 48/1.001) will eliminate 3:2 pulldown on film-based (24fps) DVDs by doing 2:2.

72/1.001 will do the same thing by creating a 3:3 situation.

The net result is the elimination of motion artifacts and jitter.

60/1.001 is suitable for video-based (30fps) DVDs.

So as not to confuse others who aren't paying close attention ... the 12.51" offset only applies to a 92" screen (which has a height of 45"). The offset is not static - it is 27.8% of whatever your image height is. ;)

Cavu - Thanks for this. Saw in the owner's manual about the 27.8%. I'll keep that in mind if I go smaller (or larger) than 92".

Ja Phule - I have 9' ceilings. I played with the zoom feature last night and noticed more SDE at full zoom vs no zoom so I'd like to keep the pj as close to no zoom as possible. How should I go about mounting to ceiling while trying to do that? Wish the calculator at pjcentral had stuff for ceiling drop and black drop for screen.

How should I go about mounting to ceiling while trying to do that? Wish the calculator at pjcentral had stuff for ceiling drop and black drop for screen.Forget Projector Central and go to the SP4805 Support Page (http://www.infocus.com/Products/Projectors/SP4805.aspx) and use the calculator located there and review the plethora of resource materials provided there. All your installation questions are covered.

Forget Projector Central and go to the SP4805 Support Page (http://www.infocus.com/Products/Projectors/SP4805.aspx) and use the calculator located there and review the plethora of resource materials provided there. All your installation questions are covered.

Thanks! I'll check it out.

48Hz (actually 48/1.001) will eliminate 3:2 pulldown on film-based (24fps) DVDs by doing 2:2.

72/1.001 will do the same thing by creating a 3:3 situation.

The net result is the elimination of motion artifacts and jitter.

60/1.001 is suitable for video-based (30fps) DVDs.

Does this mean each time you change the source you have to change the refresh rate?

Does this mean each time you change the source you have to change the refresh rate?Ideally. But I have no video-based favourites so I just leave it at 48Hz.

It's only a few keystrokes on the Bravo remote to change. Use the pre-progammed 60Hz 852x480 setting for video DVDs and the custom setting set to 48Hz 854x480 for movie DVDs.

48Hz (actually 48/1.001) will eliminate 3:2 pulldown on film-based (24fps) DVDs by doing 2:2.

72/1.001 will do the same thing by creating a 3:3 situation.

The net result is the elimination of motion artifacts and jitter.

60/1.001 is suitable for video-based (30fps) DVDs.


Hmmmmmmmm... so is there a magic refresh rate that is good for everything? =\

Just scored a Snazio 1300 off eBay (item #9738693194). We'll see how well that looks on my 4805. I liked it not only for the 1:1 pixel map, but it has networking capabilities, it can upconvert over component, and read somewhere that it can play MPEG-4 (Nero digital) too. Nice!

Just scored a Snazio 1300 ... I liked it not only for the 1:1 pixel mapGood start. I don't believe the SanZio can do custom resolutions or refresh rates but it does have a preset 60Hz 852x480 output which you can use with the 4805.

Edit: SnaZio emailed me with a list of their preset resolutions; it is more complete than I thought and includes those stupid "plasma" resolutions: DVI 480P 60Hz
DVI 576P 50Hz
DVI 720P 60Hz
DVI 1080i 60Hz
DVI 720P 50Hz
DVI 1080i 50Hz
DVI 640 x 480
DVI 800 x 600
DVI 852 x 480
DVI 1024 x 768
DVI 1280 x 768
DVI 1280 x 1024
DVI 1366 x 768

it can upconvert over componentSee my sig. ;)

Hmmmmmmmm... so is there a magic refresh rate that is good for everything? =\

720Hz? (24X30) ;)

720Hz?Bingo!

Good start. I don't believe the SanZio can do custom resolutions or refresh rates but it does have a preset 60Hz 852x480 output which you can use with the 4805.See my sig. ;)

Didn't realize refresh rates were so important until your last couple of posts. At least the preset will match up with the 4805. Another factor that influenced me was, unlike the Bravo, I don't have to do an internal mod.

On the topic of screens... I've read through the stuff at Infocus. My environment has very limited light control. Only vertical and horizontal blinds on windows and some higher windows have no coverings at all. On top of that, all the walls and ceilings are white. Viewing distance is around 10' to 12'. Should I go with a gray screen or stick with HCMW but with lower gain (I guess that would be a regular MW)? I'm sure I'll need a filter to reduce ftL.

Bingo!
120?

120?Nope. It is not evenly divisible by 24fps. (Scratch that! I don't know where I parked my brain. :o )

Yes. That would work.

120 / 24 = 5?

120 / 24 = 5?thank you :o

LOL. :)

120/30=4? 120/24=5?

Anyone want to post all the custom numbers for 120Hz?

Does a ND2 lens simply screw onto the 4805 lens or do I have to rig it up somehow? 62mm, right?

Does a ND2 lens simply screw onto the 4805 lens or do I have to rig it up somehow? 62mm, right?Nice friction fit - 62mm, yes.

Nice friction fit - 62mm, yes.

aka..jam it on.

Any input on a screen for my situation?

Nice friction fit - 62mm, yes.

You can also buy the following in place of a 62 mm filter.

1. Step down ring 62-55 mm
2. ND2 filter 55 mm.

Mount the step down ring (friction fit) on the projector. Then thread the 55 mm filter on the ring threads.

This has the advantage of taking on and off the filter easily (if you need to) without damaging the projector lens ring.

The cost of this combination is equal to or less than that of 62 mm ND2.
;)

48Hz (actually 48/1.001) will eliminate 3:2 pulldown on film-based (24fps) DVDs by doing 2:2.

72/1.001 will do the same thing by creating a 3:3 situation.

The net result is the elimination of motion artifacts and jitter.

60/1.001 is suitable for video-based (30fps) DVDs.

I thought that everything that was NTSC DVD was set to 30 fps. Or does the original FPS carry over onto a dvd?

Anyways thanks for the info Cavu. I have had probelms in the setting I have used for 48 Hz, but the 72 HZ does seem to improve a bit of motion for me...

Is anybody ever had a problem with the lamp fan of their SP 4805.
My lamp went out at about 1200hours, I purchased a new lamp and installed it.
But the unit was doing strange noise/buzz like 'Zzzzzzzzzz Zzzzzzz' wasn't like the normal fan or the color weel.
I dissasembled the unit and I found that the Lamp fan doesn't turn when i power it up and he is causing the strange noise.

1- I took out the fan and I tryed it in on a 12v and 5v power source and it turn.
2- For testing purpose, I have replaced the fan with a computer case fan but it doesn't work either.

3- If I use a multimeter I can read 2.8v at the output of the lamp fan. Is this normal? Is the board is broken?

The rest of the unit seem to work weel (but stopped it a soon as I found the fans isn't turning, and did my test with an unpluged lamp)

Disapointed, I guess that the board is faulty and doesn't give enought power.

Have you some suggestion on how to fix it (cheap solution... as we are broken after a new lamp)?

Is anybody have an broken unit that the board sould be working well?


A firend give me the Idea of purchasing a 120v fan with the exact same spec and connect it directly to the unit switch. That way the lamp will be cooled.

Thanks to all of you guys!

Hi everybody:

I'm ready to order and route all of my projector cables in the wall and ceiling. I want to future proof the computer connectivity and I have searched this forum and googled about every cable and adaptor I could find. I want to be able to send analog and digital signals to the projector and I understand that M1 handles both. I found M1 to M1 cables but they are all male to male and the adaptor I found is M1 male to DVI-I female and USB female. Anybody know of a male to female cable? I need a 30 foot length. Here is the adaptor:

http://www.ramelectronics.net/html/DVI_m1_adapter.html#m1

Or, will M1 to HDMI be more future proof? Thanks for any input.

Harold :)

Hi everybody:

I'm ready to order and route all of my projector cables in the wall and ceiling. I want to future proof the computer connectivity and I have searched this forum and googled about every cable and adaptor I could find. I want to be able to send analog and digital signals to the projector and I understand that M1 handles both. I found M1 to M1 cables but they are all male to male and the adaptor I found is M1 male to DVI-I female and USB female. Anybody know of a male to female cable? I need a 30 foot length. Here is the adaptor:

http://www.ramelectronics.net/html/DVI_m1_adapter.html#m1

Or, will M1 to HDMI be more future proof? Thanks for any input.

Harold :)

Yowzers, that's one expensive adapter. If you want to future-proof your cables, I'd go with a 30' hdmi from monoprice.com and whatever adapters you need from there all for about the same price as that one adapter you linked to.

I'm also cursed with the dreaded light tube problem. I have a brown tint on the right edge of my screen that's been slowly working its way into my image. I've also gone through my last replacement bulb in only about a year of use. Should the fan directly behind the bulb be on if the power is turned on but the bulb is not plugged in? I'm wondering if the bulb overheated due to fan failure.

Can anyone tell me how to clean the colr wheel, please help.

Can anyone tell me how to clean the colr wheel, please help.

Pictorial Color Wheel Cleaning Guide from Super Goop (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=581503)

Interestingly I had the opportunity to measure a calibration customer before and after he cleaned the colorwheel (now that warranty nears end he decided to risk it - but I suggest no coffee the day of the procedure!).

He had just installed a new lamp - and it was suprisingly yellow and required signficant calibration - and really was not that bright. Upon cleaning I came back - and found only a click off on calibration and it was like he had jumped up to a gain screen. It really made a big difference!

Yowzers, that's one expensive adapter. If you want to future-proof your cables, I'd go with a 30' hdmi from monoprice.com and whatever adapters you need from there all for about the same price as that one adapter you linked to.

Thanks, that's the route that I think I will take. I can always just hook up USB directly to the projectior through the supplied SP4805 VGA/USB cable to upgrade the software.

Harold :)

Anybody know of a male to female cable? I need a 30 foot length.Contact www.libertycable.com

They make excellent and custom cables and offer their "EZLINX" termination which allows you to pull a single cable through your plenum then attach your choice of breakout connectors!

Interestingly I had the opportunity to measure a calibration customer before and after he cleaned the colorwheel (now that warranty nears end he decided to risk it - but I suggest no coffee the day of the procedure!).

He had just installed a new lamp - and it was suprisingly yellow and required signficant calibration - and really was not that bright. Upon cleaning I came back - and found only a click off on calibration and it was like he had jumped up to a gain screen. It really made a big difference!

That is cool... and scary. How many hours did he have? Was the room environment that bad? Had he ever cleaned his filter?

Thanks,

my brother just called me lastnight from the philippines. he said his 4805 has brown spot in the upper left corner of the screen. is this dust blob? i see some pictures here projectors who has dust blob problems but all of them is kinda white not brown spot. his projector is less than 2yrs old with 600hrs+. he doesnt have access to internet thats why he asked me to post this question to this forum since one of the service shop there charge him about $500 to fix it.

SnaZio emailed me with the complete list of DVI resolutions on their SnaZio* Net DVD Cinema players so I editted my previous post (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7836771&&#post7836771).

Pictorial Color Wheel Cleaning Guide from Super Goop (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=581503)
Thanks for the help, now my image looks a lot better.

my brother just called me lastnight from the philippines. he said his 4805 has brown spot in the upper left corner of the screen. is this dust blob? i see some pictures here projectors who has dust blob problems but all of them is kinda white not brown spot. his projector is less than 2yrs old with 600hrs+. he doesnt have access to internet thats why he asked me to post this question to this forum since one of the service shop there charge him about $500 to fix it.
Could be the start of the infamous light tube problem. Do a search in this thread and the original 4805 thread for "light tube".

if it is indeed the infamous light tube problem. is it covered with the manufacture warranty? thanks again for the reply. i will search for the light tube problem.

I have just blown my second bulb, this time after 6 months and 500 hours of usage. I should say I believe it is a blown bulb. While I was wathcing tv the projector mad sort of a pop/sizzle sound and the picture went out. Now when I turn it on i get a hissing sound when the bulb should be comming on. It is not the same as the last time I lost my bulb, that time after 13 months and 1200 hours :mad: . That time there was just the sound of the lamp trying to strike, no hissing.

If anyone has any thouhgts as to what my problem me be besides a blown bulb please let me know. I would like to keep this projector but the WAF has had enough with the bulb issue and wants me to get a 50 inch plasma.

Thanks

if it is indeed the infamous light tube problem. is it covered with the manufacture warranty?Absolutely! IF repaired it under warranty last month and my projector now works better than ever.

if it is indeed the infamous light tube problem. is it covered with the manufacture warranty? thanks again for the reply. i will search for the light tube problem.
As Sponge said, it is indeed covered. You just have to go without it for a few weeks, or they may just send you a replacement refurb.

I have just blown my second bulb, this time after 6 months and 500 hours...the last time I lost my bulb...after 13 months and 1200 hours...

Title: "Pissed - 2nd Blown bulb at 2500 hours total use"

I'm confused. 500 or 2500 hours? :confused:

Title: "Pissed - 2nd Blown bulb at 2500 hours total use"

I'm confused. 500 or 2500 hours? :confused:

My bad. First bulb 1200 hours, second 500. Total hours about 1700. I have gone through 2 when i should be just over half the life of my first one.

i forgot to mentioned that the initial feedback from the service shop was "optical engine" needs to be replace. is there such thing as optical engine parts? if so, is this still covered under IF warranty since the projector is less than 2yrs? just want to make sure since the shop is not authorize IF service center. thanks again for any advice

i forgot to mentioned that the initial feedback from the service shop was "optical engine" needs to be replace. is there such thing as optical engine parts? if so, is this still covered under IF warranty since the projector is less than 2yrs? just want to make sure since the shop is not authorize IF service center. thanks again for any advice
Yeah, the light tube is part of the optical engine. They'll replace the entire optical engine, and it will be covered.

Would anyone know were i could buy a colorwheel for the sp4805

I have just blown my second bulb, this time after 6 months and 500 hours of usage. I should say I believe it is a blown bulb. While I was wathcing tv the projector mad sort of a pop/sizzle sound and the picture went out. Now when I turn it on i get a hissing sound when the bulb should be comming on. It is not the same as the last time I lost my bulb, that time after 13 months and 1200 hours :mad: . That time there was just the sound of the lamp trying to strike, no hissing.

If anyone has any thouhgts as to what my problem me be besides a blown bulb please let me know. I would like to keep this projector but the WAF has had enough with the bulb issue and wants me to get a 50 inch plasma.

Thanks

Is your fan Lamp is turning?
My lamp went out at 1200h and I bought the new lamp and last week I installed it. but the projector was doing really strange loud noise "buzzzzz... Buzzzz...".

I removed my new lamp and tryed to figure out form were the sound came from. And the fan doesn't turn anymore and he make the sound (really like a buzzer).
You can see my previous post to know my hole diagnostic.

For now I didn't know what to do and how to fix it.. since the fan turn really weel on 12v or even at 5v. :confused:

Is someone know if the 2.8 volt I got from the bord is part of the normal process or look like a dead circuit? :mad:

Ok, so my Infocus 4805's color wheel SHATTERED. What do I do now? =\

Thanks for the help, now my image looks a lot better.


How many hours did you have on the bulb, and was there any noticeable deterioration in the picture quality that prompted you to go for the cleaning?

Also, in the guide he did not mention how we got the wheel out, did you actually have to remove it completely or did you just clean the backside of it?

thanks.

You can also buy the following in place of a 62 mm filter.

1. Step down ring 62-55 mm
2. ND2 filter 55 mm.

Mount the step down ring (friction fit) on the projector. Then thread the 55 mm filter on the ring threads.

This has the advantage of taking on and off the filter easily (if you need to) without damaging the projector lens ring.

The cost of this combination is equal to or less than that of 62 mm ND2.
;)

Does it have to be 62->55? Will 62->58 work? Just wondering if there is something special about 55mm.

Also, anyone other than Ja Phule have advice on a screen in a virtually uncontrolled room (other than waiting for the sun to go down)? My viewing distance is around 10 to 12 ft. Would like to get good/wide viewing angles. Thanks.

Are any of you folks using mythtv?

I would like to pixel map (just for DVD) with my Nvidia card for use in DVD playback with mythtv. But I just do not know how to do it. Any suggestions?

ksmut, I have a 92" diagonal DaLite HCCV (High Contrast Cinema Vision) screen. It's a greyish screen which helps quite a bit with DLP black levels. Occasionally ( like when throwing a party/ sports event) I need some ambient light and it's quite tolerable.

Does it have to be 62->55? Will 62->58 work?I see no benefit whatsoever in using a reduction ring and smaller lens, unless it's cheaper or the 62mm lens is not available.

Otherwise, just do the 62mm. It fits snugly, comes on and off easily and doesn't mark or damage the focus ring on the projector.

Ok, so my Infocus 4805's color wheel SHATTERED. What do I do now? =\

If it is still under warranty, contact infocus... if not... :(

I have just blown my second bulb, this time after 6 months and 500 hours of usage. I should say I believe it is a blown bulb. While I was wathcing tv the projector mad sort of a pop/sizzle sound and the picture went out. Now when I turn it on i get a hissing sound when the bulb should be comming on. It is not the same as the last time I lost my bulb, that time after 13 months and 1200 hours :mad: . That time there was just the sound of the lamp trying to strike, no hissing.

If anyone has any thouhgts as to what my problem me be besides a blown bulb please let me know. I would like to keep this projector but the WAF has had enough with the bulb issue and wants me to get a 50 inch plasma.

Thanks

Have you been cleaning your lamp filters every 250 hrs? If so, have they been pretty dirty? Have you been running on high power mode by any chance? Is your 4805 running from a location that doesn't get a lot of cool air?

Does it have to be 62->55? Will 62->58 work? Just wondering if there is something special about 55mm.

Also, anyone other than Ja Phule have advice on a screen in a virtually uncontrolled room (other than waiting for the sun to go down)? My viewing distance is around 10 to 12 ft. Would like to get good/wide viewing angles. Thanks.

Use blackout cloth for curtains. This way you can control the light. I would go this way rather than trying to find the screen that works.

Does it have to be 62->55? Will 62->58 work? Just wondering if there is something special about 55mm.

Also, anyone other than Ja Phule have advice on a screen in a virtually uncontrolled room (other than waiting for the sun to go down)? My viewing distance is around 10 to 12 ft. Would like to get good/wide viewing angles. Thanks.

58mm is bigger than 55, so 62->58 is no problem!

Ksmut,

Use the black out cloth and read through this thread:Do-able screen thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=617173&page=1&pp=30) it displays a great image and if you live west of Denver you can find it for about $ 14 a sheet.

Ksmut,

Use the black out cloth and read through this thread:Do-able screen thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=617173&page=1&pp=30) it displays a great image and if you live west of Denver you can find it for about $ 14 a sheet.

Thanks for the link. Unfornately, the wife vetoed both those already. No making my own screen and no blackout cloth over windows. So I'm looking for a ceiling mounted screen (no trap door) with a white case. Can be either manual or electric. Max is 92" diagonal. Blackout cloth doesn't go with her idea of decor. So I'm stuck...wait for the room to get to an acceptable level of darkness and find a screen that may help my situation.

Thanks for the link. Unfornately, the wife vetoed both those already. No making my own screen and no blackout cloth over windows. So I'm looking for a ceiling mounted screen (no trap door) with a white case. Can be either manual or electric. Max is 92" diagonal. Blackout cloth doesn't go with her idea of decor. So I'm stuck...wait for the room to get to an acceptable level of darkness and find a screen that may help my situation.

Do you have blinds on the windows? I can watch a movie during the day with a very nice picture quality with the blinds closed. Mine are just 2" wood blinds I just try to keep direct sun off the screen. Look on ebay and see if anyone is selling a 92" pull down. Screens can get very $$$ so I would start there.

Do you have blinds on the windows? I can watch a movie during the day with a very nice picture quality with the blinds closed. Mine are just 2" wood blinds I just try to keep direct sun off the screen. Look on ebay and see if anyone is selling a 92" pull down. Screens can get very $$$ so I would start there.

Yes, I have blinds and I believe they are 2" like yours. Mine are some type of white plastic or composite. The other problem is that the interior is painted all white and we don't have much on the walls (recently moved in). It's pretty bright even with all the blinds closed. There are 2 decorative windows (2' x 2') higher on the walls that don't have blinds. I've been watching ebay very closely for 84" and 92" screens.

Is there any advantage for my situation to use a gray screen? Or should I stick to matte white or HCMW?

Unfornately, the wife vetoed both those already. No making my own screen and no blackout cloth over windows.

Black curtains. MAke your own screen anyway. Time to stand up and take some control over your own house. (Unless the wife is paying ALL the bills and house payments, doing ALL the housework, and doing ALL the child raising alone.) Marriage is a partnership, not a dictatorship.

I bought a piece of 72"W fabric at JoAnn Fabrics that was stunning and had a sweet pattern for $1/yd. Bought 5 yds. and made the curtains myself with very nice borders. Bought a 72" insert rod for another $4. The gf absolutely loves them. $9 to completely blackout all sunlight. 4805 image looks outstanding.

Here's a couple of ideas. Blackout Cloth is fairly cheap and a demo of the picture quality in a darkened room might change her mind. The cloth can be slid behind the blinds in many cases so it is unobtrusive.

We have Pella windows with built in blinds and put the cloth behind the removable inner pane, along with some movie posters.

I suppose if you can't make a screen, you'll just have to paint the wall. :D

Hey guys... I love this thread... Just wanted share an exciting new purchase... I've been enjoying my 4805 for the last two years and I recently bought a high power screen (54x96). My projector is ceiling mounted and wow... the image is beautiful! I've heard so many people say this was not a good screen for the 4805 and also that this screen is no good for ceiling mounts, but what I see is an amazing improvement in picture quality, color, and image depth.

Black curtains. MAke your own screen anyway. Time to stand up and take some control over your own house. Marriage is a partnership, not a dictatorship.


Yah! Right!!

So which is the parternship (making your own screen anyway) and which is dictatorship (take control over your "own" home)

:D

Thanks for the link. Unfornately, the wife vetoed both those already. No making my own screen and no blackout cloth over windows. So I'm looking for a ceiling mounted screen (no trap door) with a white case. Can be either manual or electric. Max is 92" diagonal. Blackout cloth doesn't go with her idea of decor. So I'm stuck...wait for the room to get to an acceptable level of darkness and find a screen that may help my situation.

Show her this alternative for consideration:

Nice, decorative, fixed screen with excellent ambient light rejection (http://www.screeninnovations.com/) :D

Yah! Right!!

So which is the parternship (making your own screen anyway) and which is dictatorship (take control over your "own" home)

:D

Sorry. I got a bit carried away. It's just that I've had it with hearing about WAF. You don't see forums for women complaining about HAF, do you? Guys don't typically run around telling their wives that they can't put sickeningly-sweet ducks, cows, chickens, sunflowers, and "Precious Moments" (gag) figurines up because it doesn't match their idea of decor. Why is it OK for women? :confused:

What I was getting at was about taking a stand this time and going from there, moving toward a more middle ground, rather than simply giving someone "veto" power. That's why I specified "some". ;)

Remember, men, it's easier to beg forgiveness than ask permission. (At least for those of you that have to deal with this travesty and mockery of manhood.) :D

Thanks for the input guys. No problem Spyder. I think I have an idea that might work...valances with blackout cloth rolled up underneath. The valances can be whatever she wants them to be, but when it's PJ time, just unroll the blackout cloth and the material drops over the windows. When done, roll them back underneath the valances and out of sight.

I do have to agree with her though on having a screen mounted to the ceiling. Space is limited and the way our living room is set up, a DIY screen wouldn't work.

I'm looking for a good HDMI-DVI cable for my 4805, any good suggestions on typw to get? I've checked out bluejeans cable and monoprice and I see things like "Tin-Plated copper cable 22 AWG, 24 AWG or 26 AWG Gold plated." Which is more appropriate to get? Confused.

First off hello to everyone on the boards. This is my first post here and I have been lurking for about 2 weeks. So hello all :).

I ordered a refurbished 4805 off Ebay and am likely getting it in the next couple of days. Of course I don't know what type of shape it is in. So I was wondering if there were certain steps I should take when I first get it? For example maintenance or things I can check to make sure the projector is in relatively good shape.

The seller stated the bulb has less than 100 hours on it. Honestly I am skeptical on this. So is there anyway to tell how many hours are on a bulb w/o using the built in timer on the 4805? Does a bulb with 100 hours looks significantly different than a bulb with 2000 hours on it?

I plan on checking the filter and color wheels specifically to see if they need cleaning. Is there something else I should check?

Well thanks. This site, board, and thread have all been a huge benefit to me so Thank You.

Mike

I'm looking for a good HDMI-DVI cable for my 4805, any good suggestions on typw to get? I've checked out bluejeans cable and monoprice and I see things like "Tin-Plated copper cable 22 AWG, 24 AWG or 26 AWG Gold plated." Which is more appropriate to get? Confused.

I've never heard of anyone with a complaint about their cable quality, regardless of which one they got.

First off hello to everyone on the boards. This is my first post here and I have been lurking for about 2 weeks. So hello all :).

I ordered a refurbished 4805 off Ebay and am likely getting it in the next couple of days. Of course I don't know what type of shape it is in. So I was wondering if there were certain steps I should take when I first get it? For example maintenance or things I can check to make sure the projector is in relatively good shape.

The seller stated the bulb has less than 100 hours on it. Honestly I am skeptical on this. So is there anyway to tell how many hours are on a bulb w/o using the built in timer on the 4805? Does a bulb with 100 hours looks significantly different than a bulb with 2000 hours on it?

I plan on checking the filter and color wheels specifically to see if they need cleaning. Is there something else I should check?

Well thanks. This site, board, and thread have all been a huge benefit to me so Thank You.

Mike

Welcome to the 4805 club! I think you've got the right idea with the bulb and filter check, along with the color wheel. I don't think there are any ways to check actual usage hours, other than what's shown. I definitely recommend reading this:
http://japhule.collinsreport.com/4805FAQ/html/index.html
This:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=581503
And this:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=380491

Remember, as SuperGoop pointed out in his cleaning guide, just because the wheel is dirty, doesn't necessarily mean it's got a lot of hours. Also, I'd look at the bulb and see if there is any of the silver backing coming off or for scorch marks. Good luck.

First off hello to everyone on the boards. This is my first post here and I have been lurking for about 2 weeks. So hello all :).

I ordered a refurbished 4805 off Ebay and am likely getting it in the next couple of days. Of course I don't know what type of shape it is in. So I was wondering if there were certain steps I should take when I first get it? For example maintenance or things I can check to make sure the projector is in relatively good shape.

The seller stated the bulb has less than 100 hours on it. Honestly I am skeptical on this. So is there anyway to tell how many hours are on a bulb w/o using the built in timer on the 4805? Does a bulb with 100 hours looks significantly different than a bulb with 2000 hours on it?

I plan on checking the filter and color wheels specifically to see if they need cleaning. Is there something else I should check?

Well thanks. This site, board, and thread have all been a huge benefit to me so Thank You.

Mike


My color wheel was real dirty after only 100 hours. The bulb housing near the light exit lens looks scorched after less time also. So a 100 hour unit could appear to be older. You can check the inside of the reflector for "crazing" where the reflector inside is flaking or pealing a little. If it has alot, it may be older, but some bulbs also don't develop much if any.

I've never heard of anyone with a complaint about their cable quality, regardless of which one they got.

I would by the Monoprice cable, make Sure you get a DVI-D/M1 cable and try to stay below 25' Length. Mine is a 25' version that I have been using since December 05 without issue. I have heard lengths longer than 25 feet can cause HDCP issues as well as signal loss.

Thanks Homer1963, I didn't know about the length restriction though. You mentioned the DVI-D/MI cable, didn't we get some sort of an adapter to accomodate a DVI cable? I'll have to check my stuff out, its been about a year and a half since I did anything with that stuff:D I was planning on getting one with HDMI to DVI such as this cable (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10231&cs_id=1023102&p_id=2121&seq=1&format=2&style=) . Good solution?

I would by the Monoprice cable, make Sure you get a DVI-D/M1 cable and try to stay below 25' Length. Mine is a 25' version that I have been using since December 05 without issue. I have heard lengths longer than 25 feet can cause HDCP issues as well as signal loss.I have the 35' cable and it works fine. :)

I have the 35' cable and it works fine. :)

Cool, thanks. I was looking around and found this HDMI-M1 cable (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10238&cs_id=1023802&p_id=2815&seq=1&format=2&style=) . Safe to assume this would take the headache out of it? I want to make sure I get a cable long enough so that I don't have to upgrade in length later on.

I'm looking for a good HDMI-DVI cable for my 4805, any good suggestions on typw to get? I've checked out bluejeans cable and monoprice and I see things like "Tin-Plated copper cable 22 AWG, 24 AWG or 26 AWG Gold plated." Which is more appropriate to get? Confused.

Gold is like 5 extra hp to the wheels!!! Add some stickers and a underglow and you will be smokin the competition!

j/k

Gold cables remind me of ricers...

LOL. The gold isn't needed...unless you need some bling-bling for your teeth. ;)

Hi, I've been enjoying my 4805, with the D1 and a home built screen(103 in) for a couple of months now. It is absolutely beautiful. When I can, I will post a picture of the screen.

Occasionally, I do have some problems with the D1. I suppose it is due to the bad cap. Anyone from the Triangle area in NC lurking in this forum willing to help me replace the cap on the D1? A 6-pack for the volunteer!

Thanks gprro1 and Spyder. I got the projector last night and fired it for about 4 hours ,and it looks great. I plan to go through the cleaning procedures this weekend. Thanks for those links :)

I have a question about cleaning the lens. Could I use rubbing alchol to clean the lens with a soft cloth?

Also does anyone know where I could find a lens cap for the 4805? I think I am going to have to try to hunt one down. I looked on the Infocus sight but they didn't seem to offer a 4805 lens cap replacement. Unless I missed it.

Thanks again. Now I have to look into a screen (I think I am leaning toward blackout cloth).

Have a good day :),
Mike

Hi, I've been enjoying my 4805, with the D1 and a home built screen(103 in) for a couple of months now. It is absolutely beautiful. When I can, I will post a picture of the screen.

Occasionally, I do have some problems with the D1. I suppose it is due to the bad cap. Anyone from the Triangle area in NC lurking in this forum willing to help me replace the cap on the D1? A 6-pack for the volunteer!

Temp,

It'd be a long haul for me for just a 6-pak!!! ;) The swap really isn't all that hard. The hardest part is actually getting the old cap out. If you attempt to do it yourself...and by all means you should, just take your time. Don't rush things and you should be alright. AND...be sure to get the right polarity when installing the new cap!!!

Thanks gprro1 and Spyder. I got the projector last night and fired it for about 4 hours ,and it looks great. I plan to go through the cleaning procedures this weekend. Thanks for those links :)

I have a question about cleaning the lens. Could I use rubbing alchol to clean the lens with a soft cloth?

Also does anyone know where I could find a lens cap for the 4805? I think I am going to have to try to hunt one down. I looked on the Infocus sight but they didn't seem to offer a 4805 lens cap replacement. Unless I missed it.

Thanks again. Now I have to look into a screen (I think I am leaning toward blackout cloth).

Have a good day :),
Mike

Mike,

You're better off heading toyour local camera store and picking up a lens cleaning kit.

As for a replacement cap, most don't use it. Reason being is when the cap is taken on/off it tends to screw up your focus, and then you have to wait for 20-30 minutes for the pj to get to a good operating temperature to refocus. Unless you'll be transporting the pj often, I wouldn't worry about the lens cap. Just monitor the lens itself, if it looks dirty then do a cleaning. I've had my unit for 1.5 years and at first used the lens cap replacing it after every viewing session, but grew tired of the refocusing bit. Since then I've stopped using it and have only cleaned my lens twice! No picture quality degradation, even with a little dust. Now if you smoke within the same room as the pj when its being used that's another story, but we won't get into that because as we all know...smoking and pj's don't mix!

How many hours did you have on the bulb, and was there any noticeable deterioration in the picture quality that prompted you to go for the cleaning?

Also, in the guide he did not mention how we got the wheel out, did you actually have to remove it completely or did you just clean the backside of it?

thanks.

I have not figured out how to remove it, so I have not cleaned it yet. After I cleaned out the dust filters the picture look better.

Which cable is compatible without an adapter...the HDMI to DVI or the HDMI to M1 ?

Mike,
You're better off heading toyour local camera store and picking up a lens cleaning kit.


Thanks for the info DeerHunter. I have absolutely NO experience in photography equipment. I know you can clean electronics with rubbing achol so I try to use it on everything :). I will put a lens cleaning kit on the long list of things I need to get :).

I unfortunately will be transporting the PJ a lot it seems. So I do need to find a replacement lens cap. But thanks for the info on it cause the PJ to loose focus. Since I don't have one I didn't know that :). I am in my infancy with PJ's in general so I have a ton to learn.

Thanks for the info DeerHunter. I have absolutely NO experience in photography equipment. I know you can clean electronics with rubbing achol so I try to use it on everything :). I will put a lens cleaning kit on the long list of things I need to get :).

I unfortunately will be transporting the PJ a lot it seems. So I do need to find a replacement lens cap. But thanks for the info on it cause the PJ to loose focus. Since I don't have one I didn't know that :). I am in my infancy with PJ's in general so I have a ton to learn.

Yup! You might be able to get a cap that'll fit at your local camera shop as well. It doesn't have to be INFOCUS...as long as it fits. Try looking for 62mm lens cap!

Which cable is compatible without an adapter...the HDMI to DVI or the HDMI to M1 ?
HDMI to M1

HDMI to M1

Thanks for the response, that takes the guess work out of the equation.

Yup! You might be able to get a cap that'll fit at your local camera shop as well. It doesn't have to be INFOCUS...as long as it fits. Try looking for 62mm lens cap!

Agreed. I was just going to point that out but you beat me to it. :D

I have enjoyed my 4805 for a long time now, unfortunately the rainbows never went away, albeit occasionally. I wonder how many individuals that saw rainbows with this color wheel upgraded to a 5x/7 segment and saw none. I won't upgrade if that won't make any difference either, but if it would I would definately change PJ's. What's the next most inexpensive PJ with a higher color wheel statistic that you guys would recommend? Thank you much for any and all replies.

-Dave

i am curious, i know that the infocus 4805 is a lower resolution projector but i was wondering if could i see a performance boost picture qaulity using an hd dvd player with it versus my denon 3910 dvd player which i currently have? has anyone tried this combo yet?

i am curious, i know that the infocus 4805 is a lower resolution projector but i was wondering if could i see a performance boost picture qaulity using an hd dvd player with it versus my denon 3910 dvd player which i currently have? has anyone tried this combo yet?

I guess not.

IMHO, if the source (the dvd player and also the dvd disk) and the target (the PJ) are on the same quality (either ED or HD), then that's the best possible combination one gets.

With HD DVD players in the market, we are aslo seeing lot of existing movies being re-released in HD format. But again IMO that is as good as playing the existing (non HD) dvd on a upconverting DVD player.

I am not sure, but in theory this seems logical.

I don't have a 4805. I do have a Sanyo Z1 which is a similar lower resolution projector. I also have the Toshiba HDDVD player and I can tell you for sure that the picture is amazing, much much better than any std or upconversion. You will see a difference. Resolution is only have the answer. Colour saturation and lack of any EE or artifacts is also noticable.

aaranddeeman

but you would be logically wrong.....

It is an established fact that HD has more color resolution that can fill your panel that you can easily see - DVD color resolution is only 360x240 because of compression. While HD does the same color compression - its color gamut is wider - as is the source resolution. Remove all those nasty SD compression artifacts with some VC-1 coded from HD-DVD - and you will realize the error of your thinking.

Of course an IN76 makes it all that much better - but don't delude yourself into thinking that HD does not look better on a SP4805 than SD.

I have a question for anyone who has successfully updated the 4805 firmware. I've been trying to all day with no success. I've got my laptop hooked up to the projector using the M-1 - DVI cable that came with the projector. I've downloaded the flash file and documentation. Now if I understand the instructions, I'm supposed to power off the projector, simultaneously hold down both keystone buttons on the projector while turning the power back on, and continue to hold down the keystone buttons until the status in the dialog box changes from "Waiting for connection..." to "Connected." I have tried all day, but am not able to get the status to change to "Connected." Am I missing something? The instructions are specific to the "X" brand projectors, but nowhere in the notes can I find anything specifically related to the 4805. This has been especially taxing because my projector is ceiling mounted, so it's very awkward pushing the buttons while waiting for the status change that never comes. I'm a little concerned here. Help please.

Hello to everyone on the boards.

I have a "few" questions about the 4805...:p

1. I just paired up a Momitsu 880 DX to the 4805 thru DVI (using 1:1 pixel mapping@48Hz) and was wondering if it's normal to see edge enhancement on some DVD's? I love the image quality of DVI but before I was using an older Toshiba DVD player thru component and never noticed this while watching the same DVD's.

2. If I use the 4805 as a second display on my PC (for gaming) should I consider spending extra money to get a HDMI switch (for DVD/PC), DVI-HDMI cables (for DVD/PC) and a HDMI-DVI Adapter (for M1-DVI cable) to keep the signal digital or just spend a little bit and go component?

3. I would need to cover 25 feet from the PC to 4805 so should I be concerned w/ signal loss or the PC not "seeing" the 4805 w/ DVI compared to component?

4. Is it worth sending a higher rez (i.e. 1024x768 or 1280x720) to the 4805 from the PC while gaming even if it gets scaled down to the 4805 native rez?

Thx.

I have a question for anone who uses, or has used, Xbox Media Center as a DVD player. I'm currently using it at 480p on my 4805, but was just curious as to how much better - if any - an Oppo 971 would look if I ran it through the M1 port? Does the Oppo's ability to upscale give any advantage over the modded Xbox, which runs through the component input?

I have a question for anone who uses, or has used, Xbox Media Center as a DVD player. I'm currently using it at 480p on my 4805, but was just curious as to how much better - if any - an Oppo 971 would look if I ran it through the M1 port? Does the Oppo's ability to upscale give any advantage over the modded Xbox, which runs through the component input?

XBMC works better over 480i to the 4805 vs 480p for me at least. The Oppo is my main dvd player for critical dvd watching but I use XBMC a lot (if not more) than the Oppo thanks to its other great features. I dunno if it's my component cable or xbox but the contrast on xbmc seems very low, I have it up to 100 on my 4805 to get it close to the Oppo.

XBMC works better over 480i to the 4805 vs 480p for me at least. The Oppo is my main dvd player for critical dvd watching but I use XBMC a lot (if not more) than the Oppo thanks to its other great features. I dunno if it's my component cable or xbox but the contrast on xbmc seems very low, I have it up to 100 on my 4805 to get it close to the Oppo.

Ja,
I would be interested in a side by side comparison of the XBMC and Oppo with both hooked up with the same component cables. Think you could run an experiment for us? I would think if it as the "control" when doing the experiment, since working with two different types of cables eliminates any common factor between the two. Thanks!

I have a question for anyone who has successfully updated the 4805 firmware...Help please.

Did you get the firmware here?

http://www.infocus.com/service/sp4805/software.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&

XBMC works better over 480i to the 4805 vs 480p for me at least. The Oppo is my main dvd player for critical dvd watching but I use XBMC a lot (if not more) than the Oppo thanks to its other great features. I dunno if it's my component cable or xbox but the contrast on xbmc seems very low, I have it up to 100 on my 4805 to get it close to the Oppo.

Really? You just change the output in the main dashboard to 480i and that looks better? Could you define "better" because it looks really nice to me using 480p, but I'm not exactly sure how much it could be improved if I let the projector do the...progressing... :P In fact, I'm rather new to all of this, so what looks good to me could look terrible to a trained eye.

How would you rate the quality of XBMC's player? Do you think it would be worth my while to shell out the xash for the Oppo and cables? How about the upscaling ability of the Oppo, does it make any difference on the 4805 to run a movie at 720p or 1080i even though the output resolution is always 852x480? I understand that HD-DVD and HDTV look great on the projector, but that it's mostly due to the amplified color capabilities of the HD format over the SD format, so would upscaling at all really do anything for the quality of the picture?.

Last but not least, I've tried upscaling with XBMC, but it comes out blurry looking. I read somewhere that it might have something to do with it being an analog signal, and that using the M1 port might actually make it look better than the component input. Is there any accuracy there? The Oppo would provide me with this option if so.

EDIT: I forgot to ask one thing, do games look better with 480p enabled, or should I let the projector convert those, too?

Thanks for any answers, you guys are awesome.

aaranddeeman

but you would be logically wrong.....

It is an established fact that HD has more color resolution that can fill your panel that you can easily see - DVD color resolution is only 360x240 because of compression. While HD does the same color compression - its color gamut is wider - as is the source resolution. Remove all those nasty SD compression artifacts with some VC-1 coded from HD-DVD - and you will realize the error of your thinking.

Of course an IN76 makes it all that much better - but don't delude yourself into thinking that HD does not look better on a SP4805 than SD.

Kras,

I am with you for the true HD DVD (any new movie which is actually getting filmed in HD or any original HD TV show transfered on HD DVD).

I was mainly talking about the re-released DVDs in HD format which were originally filmed in SD. Will such DVD smake any difference in picture quality with respect to the actual SD being played on upconverting player? That's the question.

:confused:

Newbie here...so I apologize in advance if I'm asking something that's been answered multiple times....but, here goes...

I've had my Infocus 4805 (refurbished unit) for nearly a year now. We had a recent storm and power outage. Power went off & on multiple times over a span of 30 seconds. There was also power fluctuation as the lights went on & off. The next day, I turn on my projector & here's what happens. My projector is plugged directly into a wall outlet.....

I hear the fan kick on. The LED is blinking GREEN. I hear what I think is the color wheel spinning. It starts with a whine. Then the spinning stops. After 15 seconds or so, I hear it start to spin again. It does this 4 or 5 times...the whole time the LED is blinking GREEN. Then it stops spinning and the LED is blinking RED. That's it. I'm guessing the bulb is blown....but how can I be sure?

Would really appreciate advise/feedback.

Thank you!

Ja,
I would be interested in a side by side comparison of the XBMC and Oppo with both hooked up with the same component cables. Think you could run an experiment for us? I would think if it as the "control" when doing the experiment, since working with two different types of cables eliminates any common factor between the two. Thanks!

I could possibly do a comparison.....but the Oppo's advantage is in it's progressive output at 480p, 720p, and 1080i. The Oppo will only do 480i via component and it's component output isn't the greatest either.

Really? You just change the output in the main dashboard to 480i and that looks better? Could you define "better" because it looks really nice to me using 480p, but I'm not exactly sure how much it could be improved if I let the projector do the...progressing... :P In fact, I'm rather new to all of this, so what looks good to me could look terrible to a trained eye.
It's just that at 480i, the 4805 will be able to use its deinterlacer for DVDs. At 480p, XBMC is using its software deinterlacing which is pretty basic and not as advanced as the Faroudja used by the 4805 (also used by the Oppo). I tried running the HQV Benchmark using XBMC at 480p and it didn't pass many of the tests. XBMC at 480p chokes on some of my older dvds that aren't flagged correctly for progressive output.

How would you rate the quality of XBMC's player? Do you think it would be worth my while to shell out the xash for the Oppo and cables? How about the upscaling ability of the Oppo, does it make any difference on the 4805 to run a movie at 720p or 1080i even though the output resolution is always 852x480? I understand that HD-DVD and HDTV look great on the projector, but that it's mostly due to the amplified color capabilities of the HD format over the SD format, so would upscaling at all really do anything for the quality of the picture?.
XBMC's player is decent if all you do is watch movies. However, it's not perfect, like ff/rr and chapter skip doesn't exactly work right. Menu playback isn't always perfect either. Whether or not the Oppo is worth it is up to you. I think if I had modded my xbox earlier with XBMC, I probably wouldn't have gotten the Oppo as I wanted the Oppo just not for its ability as a dvd player, but b/c it can play divx, mp3, and is all region. XBMC can do all of that. As for upconverting, I don't see an advantage at 720p, 1080i, I run my Oppo at 480p.

Last but not least, I've tried upscaling with XBMC, but it comes out blurry looking. I read somewhere that it might have something to do with it being an analog signal, and that using the M1 port might actually make it look better than the component input. Is there any accuracy there? The Oppo would provide me with this option if so.
Well, XBMC will be blurry at 720p and 1080i, esp the menus b/c it's at 720p and 1080i and the 4805 is only 852x480. If you get the Oppo, it should only be used via DVI as (which will go through the M1 on the 4805) as this is where it shines at.[/quote]

EDIT: I forgot to ask one thing, do games look better with 480p enabled, or should I let the projector convert those, too?
Games will look better at 480p because the games are being generated at 480p, 720p, and 1080i. We want to use 480i for DVD because DVD movie content is stored at 480i and needs to be deinterlaced to 480p.

Great post Ja Phule. I just modded my xbox w/ XBMC but I noticed the deinterlacing isn't all that great at times. I will try setting it to 480i.

Edit: How exactly do you get XBMC to output 480i? I don't see the option. I can select 480p, 720p, 1080i, NTSC, etc but no 480i.

i am curious, i know that the infocus 4805 is a lower resolution projector but i was wondering if could i see a performance boost picture qaulity using an hd dvd player with it versus my denon 3910 dvd player which i currently have? has anyone tried this combo yet? Hell yes you'll see a difference. It's like comparing the graphics of running an XBOX360 at 480p vs 720p. Night and day difference simply because the games are rendederd at 1280x720 vs 853x480. Even downscaled to 480p, there is a huge difference in quality(not even accounting for jaggies).

Hell yes you'll see a difference. It's like comparing the graphics of running an XBOX360 at 480p vs 720p. Night and day difference simply because the games are rendederd at 1280x720 vs 853x480. Even downscaled to 480p, there is a huge difference in quality(not even accounting for jaggies).

With the XBOX, you have to have either 480i or 480p. In order to get 480i, you have to disable 480p in the dashboard. You cannot do 480i if you have enabled 480p.

ahh I see. Thanks a lot.

I read your 4805 FAQ, very well done. Although I had one question...you said to simply hard turn off the projector once you're done with it. I was under the impression that you wanted to let it cool with the fan first? What made you think otherwise?

ahh I see. Thanks a lot.

I read your 4805 FAQ, very well done. Although I had one question...you said to simply hard turn off the projector once you're done with it. I was under the impression that you wanted to let it cool with the fan first? What made you think otherwise?

The power off issue has been discussed to death, basically, IMO, you let the fan cool the bulb so you can quickly restrike the bulb if you plan on turning on the projector sometime soon. You do the hard power off by flipping the switch to let the bulb cool down naturally vs being forced to cool quickly.

What's important is that you want to successfully be able to strike the bulb, and not have an unsuccessful strike, which can kill the life of the lamp.

I am with you for the true HD DVD (any new movie which is actually getting filmed in HD or any original HD TV show transfered on HD DVD).

I was mainly talking about the re-released DVDs in HD format which were originally filmed in SD. Will such DVD smake any difference in picture quality with respect to the actual SD being played on upconverting player? That's the question.Movies are generally filmed on film, not SD.

Film, even that used on old movies, has an even higher resolution than HD. A new transfer to HD will make a big difference in quality over DVD.

Came home for lunch and UPS left a present on my doorstep. My Snazio 1300 just arrived! Hooked it up and set DVI to 852x480. Looks great even though I still don't have a screen or light control for the windows other than closing the blinds. Took a picture of the DVI Setup page... can anyone tell me how to adjust these settings to get the best picture? These are factory default settings. My picture really doesn't do the image justice. TIA

Movies are generally filmed on film, not SD.

Film, even that used on old movies, has an even higher resolution than HD. A new transfer to HD will make a big difference in quality over DVD.

You have a point :)

...My Snazio 1300 just arrived! Hooked it up and set DVI to 852x480...Took a picture of the DVI Setup page... can anyone tell me how to adjust these settings to get the best picture? These are factory default settings. My picture really doesn't do the image justice. TIA

First thing I noticed was that the video height/width is in 4:3 (64/48). Should be in 16:9. Other than that, I don't know squat about the Snazio. Did it come with a manual? You could use the numbers from the Bravo D1/4805 thread as a reference point, though I'm not certain how much they would help.

has any one used the Oppo Digital DV-970HD, with the SP 4805 using the HDMI interface in 480i to the M1 input? Will the SP 4805 accept digital 480i?
Baikonur

has any one used the Oppo Digital DV-970HD, with the SP 4805 using the HDMI interface in 480i to the M1 input? Will the SP 4805 accept digital 480i?
Baikonur

The 4805's Faroudja deinterlacer is disabled over the M1 port. It will produce a bad picture, is not advised, and has the off chance of damaging your projector.

has any one used the Oppo Digital DV-970HD, with the SP 4805 using the HDMI interface in 480i to the M1 input? Will the SP 4805 accept digital 480i?
Baikonur

The M1 input will not process the 480i image. I am not sure what you would see? I was under the impression that the Oppo would not output 480i over HDMI only 480p, 720p and 1080i

The M1 input will not process the 480i image. I am not sure what you would see? I was under the impression that the Oppo would not output 480i over HDMI only 480p, 720p and 1080i

I saw a crappy looking unscaled image once from my PS2 using one of those M1-Component adapters. It was not pretty...

I am not sure, I was able to put the switch of my OTA HDTV box on 480i and run it through the M1 port and didn't see much (any) difference than putting the switch on 480p, 720p or 1080i. I guess the HDTV box is internally doing something but the 4805 states it is getting 480i. Go figure, I just left it on 720p.

The M1 input will not process the 480i image. I am not sure what you would see? I was under the impression that the Oppo would not output 480i over HDMI only 480p, 720p and 1080i

The Oppo 971 only does 480p, 720p, and 1080i over DVI... The new Oppo 970 (without faroudja) does 480i over HDMI in addition to 480p, 720p, and 1080i.

First thing I noticed was that the video height/width is in 4:3 (64/48). Should be in 16:9. Other than that, I don't know squat about the Snazio. Did it come with a manual? You could use the numbers from the Bravo D1/4805 thread as a reference point, though I'm not certain how much they would help.

Thanks Spyder for the point in the right diretion. I plugged in the settings from the Bravo D1/4805 page and it worked!!! 4805 reads 854x480@47Hz!!!! Woo hoo! The image difference is remarkable. I see so much more detail that I couldn't see before. Never realized how much make-up they piled on Carrie Fisher in EpIV or how cheesy C3PO's costume was (wiring at the waist). I'll take pictures tonight and post.

Ok, i just had my 4805 advanced replaced due to light pipe and color wheel grinding issues. That was the only thing wrong with the unit, but after 1600+ hours on the bulb, the new projector is noticable better in picture quality. Unfortunately, when using my Scientific Atlanta 8300HD DVR provided by Cox for HD, I get a screen flicker. This is not a pulsing or flickering previously mentioned on the forum, but an actual refresh issue of some sort. This only happens on the component input and persists even if I turn the Cox unit off. The resulting black screen can described as flickering with a very fast refresh rate. Now remember, I simply unplugged the old one, plugged in the new one and noticed this. I tried all sorts of different configurations, but nothing seems to lessen or increase the phenomena at all. It does not do it on DVD, which, coincidentally, comes from the same component connection and is switched through my A/V receiver. The A/V reciever works fine with the other unit. Curent firmware is at 1.3.2.

Now, before I send my old one back, is this a problem with the new one? Can anyone tell me? Thanks so much for anything you can contribute.
--
Chevell

Just got my new 4805...love it. I am using a PC to send video to it (NV 6600GT card) . Use it to watch DVD's off the HDrive. I am interested in 1:1 PIXEL MAPPING and was wondering if there was a guide on how to accomplish this. I'm connected to the M1 port of the projector and to the DVI output of the video card. If someone could help me it would be great. I've never used Powerstrip. I've looked at it and it seems very tricky.

Thanks

OK. I think I've played with most of the 1:1 settings on my Snazio 1300. The facotry default (852x480@60Hz); 854x480@48Hz (actually set at 47.95); and 854x480@72Hz (71.93). Here's what I'm seeing on EpIV and ROTK:

852x480@60Hz = Image detail is good but appears a little soft. Fairly smooth frames; didn't really notice any stuttering. Color is good. Moderate RBE.
854x480@48Hz = Incredible picture detail! Colors and contrast are outstanding. Noticeable stuttering/jerky frames (Noticeable to me, anyway, not the wife. Hell, she didn't even know that I hooked up a different player!). The most RBE out of the 3.
854x480@72Hz = Image detail is good...somewhere between the 48Hz and 60Hz setting. Completely smooth, no stuttering. Least RBE. Color isn't as good as the other settings but still better than component or S-Video.

Just wondering if what I'm seeing is what others are too? Seems like 48Hz is the best in terms of details and color but jerky.

I tried taking pictures but they came out blurry (from moving the camera). I'll try again later.

OK. I think I've played with most of the 1:1 settings on my Snazio 1300. The facotry default (852x480@60Hz); 854x480@48Hz (actually set at 47.95); and 854x480@72Hz (71.93). Here's what I'm seeing on EpIV and ROTK:

852x480@60Hz = Image detail is good but appears a little soft. Fairly smooth frames; didn't really notice any stuttering. Color is good. Moderate RBE.
854x480@48Hz = Incredible picture detail! Colors and contrast are outstanding. Noticeable stuttering/jerky frames (Noticeable to me, anyway, not the wife. Hell, she didn't even know that I hooked up a different player!). The most RBE out of the 3.
854x480@72Hz = Image detail is good...somewhere between the 48Hz and 60Hz setting. Completely smooth, no stuttering. Least RBE. Color isn't as good as the other settings but still better than component of S-Video.

Just wondering if what I'm seeing is what others are too? Seems like 48Hz is the best in terms of details and color but jerky.

I tried taking pictures but they came out blurry (from moving the camera). I'll try again later.

I perfer the 72Hz setting on my Bravo I would see alot of stuttering at 48Hz as well. 72Hz is the one I have stayed with, people who have never seen my setup are amazed at the quality of the image. and when I tell them you can set up a system with a 100" dia picture for less than $2K the are really amazed. I hope you are enjoying your new toy!

Homer,

and when I tell them you can set up a system with a 100" dia picture for less than $2K the are really amazed. I hope you are enjoying your new toy!

Homer,

These days under $1K is completely attainable...how's that for bang for your buck ! :D

ksmut did you adjust the gains and offsets on the 4805 to 58 and 28.5 ?
If not, it should change your results.

ksmut did you adjust the gains and offsets on the 4805 to 58 and 28.5 ?
If not, it should change your results.

Yes. Gains and offsets were set .
Here's one of the pictures I thought turned out OK. Can't remember if it was at 48 or 72Hz. Maybe I'll get my tripod out and try again. The picture really doesn't do justice. Can't wait to get a screen!

http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/5967/img2300b8kt.th.jpg (http://img509.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img2300b8kt.jpg)

58 and 28.5....are these what give the most accurate picture? I noticed my colors are a little off when I went through DVE but never got around to correcting it.

What's up all,

Maybe a new question... I'm flying with my 4805. Can the X-ray/scanner machine do any damage? I talked with an IF rep, and they don't think so... anyone know for sure

Deathwish238 those are the settings for the DVI to M1 input on the 4805 to get a more accurate picture.
Check the FAQs at the start of this thread or in Ja Phule's sig.

Ok after reading "The Unofficial Infocus ScreenPlay 4805 FAQ" I need some answers on a few things:

1. On the 4805 the Faroudja DCDi processor only kicks in usingS-video, composite and component inputs..right?

2. If one uses a M1 to DVD-D cable it doesn't...right?

3. So if I want to get 1:1 PIXEL MAPPING and I'm using a M1 to DVI-D cable to my HTPC (6600 GT video card) I won't get Faroudja processing.

4. If I'm getting 1:1 pixel mapping (848x480) I don't need the Faroudja processor to get a great detailed picture viewing DVD's?

5. If #4 is true what vertical freq. do I set my video card to in the in the NVidia control panel...47.95...48..? And do I need 480p or 480i to get 1:1 mapping

6. Also what should keystone be set to. I read you can't get 1:1 mapping with any Keystone??

Thanks for the help.

Ok after reading "The Unofficial Infocus ScreenPlay 4805 FAQ" I need some answers on a few things:

1. On the 4805 the Faroudja DCDi processor only kicks in usingS-video, composite and component inputs..right? Yes the M1 Port only gives you what you send it

2. If one uses a M1 to DVD-D cable it doesn't...right? Yes

3. So if I want to get 1:1 PIXEL MAPPING and I'm using a M1 to DVI-D cable to my HTPC (6600 GT video card) I won't get Faroudja processing. No you won't

4. If I'm getting 1:1 pixel mapping (848x480) I don't need the Faroudja processor to get a great detailed picture viewing DVD's? True but there are a lot of variables in HTPC viewing. There are lots of suggestions given in various threads. I do not use a pc just my Bravo player with DVI-out.

5. If #4 is true what vertical freq. do I set my video card to in the in the NVidia control panel...47.95...48..? And do I need 480p or 480i to get 1:1 mapping

6. Also what should keystone be set to. I read you can't get 1:1 mapping with any Keystone?? Keystone should be set to 50 to be at default (I know sounds weird but that is how it is).

Thanks for the help.

Hope this helps answer some of your questions ( my answers are there but it looks like I did something wrong I should have editied it differently).

58 and 28.5....are these what give the most accurate picture? I noticed my colors are a little off when I went through DVE but never got around to correcting it.

The number come from and InFocus engineer the are supposed to correct the M1 ports default setting of pc gamma. With those settings you should be close to what you would see in a theater. I am not sure you can set color temp when using the M1 port, if you can it should be set to 6500K. I am not home or I would look. :D

The number come from and InFocus engineer the are supposed to correct the M1 ports default setting of pc gamma.

Shouldn't that be the settings over Film gamma, not PC?

Shouldn't that be the settings over Film gamma, not PC?Bob William's numbers have nothing to do with gamma, per se. They set the BTB and WTW for "Studio" DVI levels (16-235) as opposed to "PC" DVI levels (0-255) and are based on Contrast and Brightness settings at default (50). If your source device outputs "PC" levels, the Gains and Offsets should be set to "50".

The separate settings of Gamma and Colour Temperature should be set to "Film" and "6500K", respectively.

Thanks for the correction, cavu.

Homer, one of these days I'm going to have to arrange a meeting to see your setup. What is your wife's blood pressure, by the way? ;)

Bob William's numbers have nothing to do with gamma, per se. They set the BTB and WTW for "Studio" DVI levels (16-235) as opposed to "PC" DVI levels (0-255) and are based on Contrast and Brightness settings at default (50). If your source device outputs "PC" levels, the Gains and Offsets should be set to "50".

The separate settings of Gamma and Colour Temperature should be set to "Film" and "6500K", respectively.

CAVU I was hoping you would see that post and clarify I knew I did not remember the entire reason for the numbers (At least I was in the ball park!) :confused:

Thanks for the correction, cavu.

Homer, one of these days I'm going to have to arrange a meeting to see your setup. What is your wife's blood pressure, by the way? ;)

Spyder,

Wait a month or 2 and I will be happy to show you my setup (I am in the middle of remodel of the room and I am moving everything around). The changes wil make it a much more dedicated room. as far as my wifes BP goes (it gonna get pretty high during the remodel of the room but I think she will like the results!) :D

Bob William's numbers have nothing to do with gamma, per se. They set the BTB and WTW for "Studio" DVI levels (16-235) as opposed to "PC" DVI levels (0-255) and are based on Contrast and Brightness settings at default (50). If your source device outputs "PC" levels, the Gains and Offsets should be set to "50".

The separate settings of Gamma and Colour Temperature should be set to "Film" and "6500K", respectively.

How do I know my player is outputting at PC levels or not? Calibration discs (Avia or DVE)?

For those inputting HD signals (OTA or Cable Box)...what inputs are you using on the 4805 to get the best picture?

How do I know my player is outputting at PC levels or not? Calibration discs (Avia or DVE)?Yes. Or even THX Optimizer.

If the projector Contrast and Brightness settings have to be moved away from the default (50) settings to set the BTB and WTW correctly, then the player is outputting "Studio" levels and the Gain and Offsets should be set to 58 and 28.5 instead. (These settings will also apply to Moto cable boxes, etc.)

If you find the Contrast and Brightness settings at default (50) are accurate (~+-1), then your player (or more likely HTPC) is outputting "PC" levels and you should not touch the Gain and Offset controls.

Note: this discussion only applies to DVI/HDMI connections which are the connection of choice.

Migster
Did you get any reply on your six questions? I've been messing with these controls for a year now and couldnt figure it out , i thought the Faroudja chip did it all , no matter the connection.
When in doubt get a bigger hammer, and if that dont work read the instructions, none of this stuff in the IF instruction manual though.
Regards Gary

Migster
Did you get any reply on your six questions? I've been messing with these controls for a year now and couldnt figure it out , i thought the Faroudja chip did it all , no matter the connection.
When in doubt get a bigger hammer, and if that dont work read the instructions, none of this stuff in the IF instruction manual though.
Regards Gary
Yes I did if you look at the first reply below my post in the quotes you will se answers in the white print at the end of each question in the quote.

What is the easiest way to ensure my lens is perfectly perpindicual to my screen. I have to ceiling mount my 4805 this weekend and can't seem to reason a way to figure this out other than eyeballing it. :rolleyes:

What is the easiest way to ensure my lens is perfectly perpindicual to my screen. I have to ceiling mount my 4805 this weekend and can't seem to reason a way to figure this out other than eyeballing it. :rolleyes:
Eyeball it the best you can, then equalize the width (at top and bottom of image), height (at left and right of image), and diagonals. Adjust mount until each pair is equal.

Tried out HDTV last night. Oh man was it nice! DiscoveryHD and ESPN are awesome! Even the wife was impressed when she saw the last few minutes of Fox's "So You Think You Can Dance". For me, the best picture was using the M1 input with the cable box output set at 720P for most stations but a few others looked better in 1080i. Different stations output different signal formats, correct? And even then, my cable company may covert it to something else?

Different stations output different signal formats, correct? And even then, my cable company may covert it to something else?

Yes, different stations natively output different signal formats with 720p being the most popular, however to get these formats directly from the stations (we are talking the Big 4 ABC, NBC, FOX and CBS and even WB now) you would need to use an over the air antenna (OTA) with an OTA receiver (or sat HD capable receivers).

If you get the HD signal through a cable or satellite provider then those providers could be converting the signal from the stations native format to a more consistent format to work with the HD receivers they provide.

With satellite (not sure about cable) at least DirecTV is compressing the signal with MPEG4 (MPEG2 on some older receivers) which I have heard could introduce artifacts.

I use a OTA receiver for the HD locals and it is absoulutely stunning on the 4805. I have not ventured into paying for HD from a sat or cable provider so I could not really compare apples to apples on how the same channels from different sources would look but I am sure someone here has both native OTA and sat or cable HD sources who can.

Yes, different stations natively output different signal formats with 720p being the most popularOf the main networks, only ABC, ESPN and FOX are 720p. The rest are 1080i.

Yes, different stations natively output different signal formats with 720p being the most popular, however to get these formats directly from the stations (we are talking the Big 4 ABC, NBC, FOX and CBS and even WB now) you would need to use an over the air antenna (OTA) with an OTA receiver (or sat HD capable receivers).

If you get the HD signal through a cable or satellite provider then those providers could be converting the signal from the stations native format to a more consistent format to work with the HD receivers they provide.

With satellite (not sure about cable) at least DirecTV is compressing the signal with MPEG4 (MPEG2 on some older receivers) which I have heard could introduce artifacts.

I use a OTA receiver for the HD locals and it is absoulutely stunning on the 4805. I have not ventured into paying for HD from a sat or cable provider so I could not really compare apples to apples on how the same channels from different sources would look but I am sure someone here has both native OTA and sat or cable HD sources who can.

I have Directv with both HD programming and locals OTA. In the state where I live OTA is a hit and miss proposition at best but if you are lucky enough to get OTA channels it is the only way to go, the image is so lifelike. It is amazing what you can do even with only 480 lines when you have a good signal to start with. We just got our FOX station OTA this week in my area before that I had a waiver to get it on the satellite. I am hoping some new stations are added in HD on satellite this year, however the few you get on direc are fantastic on the 4805 my favorite being Discovery HD.

Of the main networks, only ABC, ESPN and FOX are 720p. The rest are 1080i.

Yes, that is indeed correct.

PBS is 480i but are now doing 1080i in our area for their HD programming.

I have Directv with both HD programming and locals OTA. In the state where I live OTA is a hit and miss proposition at best but if you are lucky enough to get OTA channels it is the only way to go, the image is so lifelike. It is amazing what you can do even with only 480 lines when you have a good signal to start with. We just got our FOX station OTA this week in my area before that I had a waiver to get it on the satellite. I am hoping some new stations are added in HD on satellite this year, however the few you get on direc are fantastic on the 4805 my favorite being Discovery HD.

In Central Florida our HD locals are easy to get and is indeed lifelike and amazing.

BTW - I just noticed your signature. We are currently building our dream home and my wife is all for the new Home Theater and what she is asking for it to include is actually driving up my blood pressure...lol.

tradewinds,

Your wife and my gf should never get together. They'd bury us in equipment (and debt). Instead of WAF, were experiencing WDF (Wife Demanding Factor) :)

My question is to anyone that has done an A/B comparison: How much better can a Comcast HD signal be than an OTA one, or vice-versa?

I have searched and searched here but I can't find a solution to my problem. I have Comcast HD set at 720p, standard channels are set to 480p. Sometimes when I change channel from standard to HD sometimes I get this greenish-tone display, I usually switch between standard and HD several more time and the greenish goes away. Today when I go to HD the display is very green and there is a little flicker in the middle of the screen, I tried switching between SD and HD and it wouldn't go away. So I tried my xbox360 (running at 720p) and the display is now very dim. My lamp has 420hrs on it. 30 minutes ago I turned everything off and unplugged the 4805 because I know sometimes that resets the settings. Any experts here can tell me what's wrong with my precious? Is it a temporary thing or am I doomed? BTW, SD looks normal, no dimming from what I can tell. Thank you for your help.

do ya'll leave you're projector aspect ratio on one setting (ie. 4:3, letter, etc) or change it based on the video you are viewing?

also, is it possible to do constant height with the 4805 with out one of those special lenses???

I tried searching, but this thread is huge. ANy direction would be much appreciated.

thanks!

Well I just tried the xbox360 on 720p again, no go, same greenish screen. So I changed it to 1080i, tadah(!), it looks good again. I then changed the Comcast box from 720p to 1080i, tadah(i), it looks good again too. My question is, is my 720p screwed on the projector? Any way to fix it?

NoMore,
I'd check your cables. Are you running them through a switch of any kind? See if the problem persists witha direct connection to the projector.

My projector has been having a problem for about the last month (it is only about 2 months old), where when I first turn it on, it makes this sound like a buzz saw for about a minute. The picture looks fine, so I'm guessing it's just an issue with the fan. Anyone else experience this? I can live with it, but I want to make sure I'm not on the fast track to burning out my fan or worse?

NoMore,
I'd check your cables. Are you running them through a switch of any kind? See if the problem persists witha direct connection to the projector.

Thanks for your reply Ja Phule, I'll double check and triple check again. My Comcast unit goes to the receiver then to the projector. My 360 goes to a component switch to the receiver to the projector. I just have a feeling is something wrong with the projector because 1080i display came up fine.

Originally Posted by sas_aaron
Hmmm encounter some strange noise from my 4805.

I know how fan noise and color wheel noise sound like, and this noise is definitely not one of them. I am using in Low Power mode.

Description: Its sounds like it right comes off the power plug (not the 3-pin socket, i mean the other end where you slot onto your 4805) . The constant noise sounds like "flying housefly", like a constant "Zzzzzzzz.........." or "Electric Hum". This happens occasionally and is very loud and annoying when it comes; and when other times without the "Zzzzzz" sound, its just normal with abit of noise from the fan/color wheel.


Anyone encounter this before? is it a problem with the power plug? there a way to solve it?

I have the same problem! It's pretty intermittent, it was doing it once every 2 or 3 times I used the projector, but I haven't used my projector in 4 months (moved 3 times) and since hooking it back up it hasn't started again. For me, it makes me grind my teeth-it is a pretty loud sound. It is the Zzzzzzzzz sound (varies in loudness and pitch), but I would describe it maybe as the sounds the blades on a computer fan might make when you hold the edge of a piece of paper up to it the fan. I'm thinking I may need to send it in while still under warranty. I just wish it would do it everytime, so I know I'm not wasting my time by sending it in and them not hearing it.

I'm also wondering if I need to clean mine-when there is no source image or a pure black picture there three "smudges" kind of oval shaped and very blurry. I can't see them at all when there is any sort of an image, or even when a blue screen is up. Is this cleanable? Any other info on either of these issues? Thanks!

Hi bro, i wonder if u have solved the electric buzzing sound problem from the 4805 power outlet. if u have, can let me know how? i desperately need a solution, been more than 3 months and even after the Infocus technican change the power outlet, the problem still lies.

HELP!! :(

just obtained a Toshiba HD-Dvd.If i connected to 4805 via hdmi-m1 would i get upconversion for standard dvd discs? second question, at the moment i have a component connection from the hd dvd player to the 4805 and whilst the hd dvd discs look good,in my opinion it is not as good as going from component to my 57"sony hdtv.Can any one comment on the quality using hdmi to m1 on the 4805?
thanks
Jossix

just obtained a Toshiba HD-Dvd.If i connected to 4805 via hdmi-m1 would i get upconversion for standard dvd discs?Upconvert from what to what?! Both a standard DVD and the SP4805 are 480p resolution. Why would you want to and why would it matter?!Can any one comment on the quality using hdmi to m1 on the 4805?The HDMI/DVI/M1 connection is the highest quality interface on the SP4805.

cavu's sig says it all. :)

ok the popular Oppo dvd player is an upconverting dvd player-converting standard dvd movies to almost hd quality via hdmi connections. The Toshiba Hd-Dvd player also functions as as upconverting dvd player in the same manner as the Oppo.I would like to know if this is also possible with hdmi to the m1 port on the 4805(using hdmi-m1 cable) .As to why i would want that?I dunno, i guess because i believe Hd quality is looks better than standard definition.

I'm currently feeding my 4805 a 480p image from my Toshiba DVD player. I want to feed it a 480i image and let the 4805's Faroudja processor do it's thing. Can anyone tell me what all the settings should be for the 4805 once I make this change? I searched the thread and Ja Phule's FAQ section, but couldn't find what I was looking for. Thanks in advance.

Factory default settings should be used for 480i. You might need to tweak the contrast/brightness a bit, depending on your room and lighting conditions, but likely nothing else should need adjustment.

Factory default settings should be used for 480i. You might need to tweak the contrast/brightness a bit, depending on your room and lighting conditions, but likely nothing else should need adjustment.

really? no RGB gain adjustments? Currently feeding it 480p, I had to adjust RGB gains to get a decent looking picture. I figured I would have to make adjustments, regardless of 480p or 480i source.

Having problem with M1-DVI connect. 10 meter infocus cable that worked fine for over a year, than one day nothing, just searches for signal. When I use the cable provided by infocus on my desktop it works fine. I figure it is my cable right, but my buddies 4805 works fine with my cable. I take my projector to his house and no go with his 10 meter infocus cable. Well easy right I send it for repair to infocus, they keep it for 30 days, return it and say it is fine. But it is not fine. If my buddies 4805 works with my cable why not mine. Infocus is at a loss. Perhaps someone has had similar problems and a solution.

really? no RGB gain adjustments? Currently feeding it 480p, I had to adjust RGB gains to get a decent looking picture. I figured I would have to make adjustments, regardless of 480p or 480i source.

Really, really, for real, really! I'm cereal. :D

Read this: http://japhule.collinsreport.com/4805FAQ/html/index.html

ok the popular Oppo dvd player is an upconverting dvd player-converting standard dvd movies to almost hd quality via hdmi connections. The Toshiba Hd-Dvd player also functions as as upconverting dvd player in the same manner as the Oppo.I would like to know if this is also possible with hdmi to the m1 port on the 4805(using hdmi-m1 cable) .As to why i would want that?I dunno, i guess because i believe Hd quality is looks better than standard definition.


You are confusing high definition image with high definition source.

A CD copied from another CD will sound as good as the original.

A CD copied from a tape, despite now being "CD Quality" will still sound just like the tape.... all the hiss and crackle will be pressered in perfect 1s and 0s.

Now what if you record that CD back to an audio tape?

Same sort of deal:

DVD is 480p -> upscale to 720p you now have a high resolution picture of a low resolution picture

Take that 720p and show it again on a 480p display so it's back to 480p. You just took a high resolution picture of a low resolution picture and made it low resolution and showed it.

Think about this, what if you took a picture with a 1MP digital camera and printed it out. Kinda grainy by todays standards.

Would taking a picture of that printed picture with a 12MP pro grade camera make it better? No, at best you have a really sharp picture of a grainy picture. It IS a 12MP picture... but I think you can see why it wouldn't look so hot.

Now what if you took the picture from that 12MP camera (the one of the picture from the 1MP camear) and took a picture of that with your 1MP camera again...

Do you see why it doesn't make sense to upconvert especially if you are going to downconvert again in the end?

hi,

just bought the 4805 and wondering if the difference between regular component with a dvd player 480i and bravo d1 1:1 pixel mapping is significant? well, worth $100? :) for now, i'll be using the 4805 w/ component and maybe bravo d1 in the future.

thanks,
trent

You are confusing high definition image with high definition source.

A CD copied from another CD will sound as good as the original.

A CD copied from a tape, despite now being "CD Quality" will still sound just like the tape.... all the hiss and crackle will be pressered in perfect 1s and 0s.

Now what if you record that CD back to an audio tape?

Same sort of deal:

DVD is 480p -> upscale to 720p you now have a high resolution picture of a low resolution picture

Take that 720p and show it again on a 480p display so it's back to 480p. You just took a high resolution picture of a low resolution picture and made it low resolution and showed it.

Think about this, what if you took a picture with a 1MP digital camera and printed it out. Kinda grainy by todays standards.

Would taking a picture of that printed picture with a 12MP pro grade camera make it better? No, at best you have a really sharp picture of a grainy picture. It IS a 12MP picture... but I think you can see why it wouldn't look so hot.

Now what if you took the picture from that 12MP camera (the one of the picture from the 1MP camear) and took a picture of that with your 1MP camera again...

Do you see why it doesn't make sense to upconvert especially if you are going to downconvert again in the end?

Dave,

That's one of, if not the most easy to understand analogies I've ever seen in regard to HD. I particularly like the fact that you gave multiple examples. The only thing I'd change would be to say: " A CD copied from another CD can sound as good as the original." There still are Memorex discs out there, after all. ;)

just bought the 4805 and wondering if the difference between regular component with a dvd player 480i and bravo d1 1:1 pixel mapping is significant?

Depends on what you've got and what you consider to be "significant." If you're going from a $20 Walmart special, you'll see far more improvement than if you're using a high-end player with better processing, brightness/color/gamma controls, and a better drive.

My projector has been having a problem for about the last month (it is only about 2 months old), where when I first turn it on, it makes this sound like a buzz saw for about a minute. The picture looks fine, so I'm guessing it's just an issue with the fan. Anyone else experience this? I can live with it, but I want to make sure I'm not on the fast track to burning out my fan or worse?
The Search function is your friend.

This has been discussed many many many many many many times in this thread and its predecessor.

Search this thread for "buzz saw" and you'll get many hits.

I'll give you this: it's not the fan - it's the color wheel.

Just wanted to let everyone know how easy the color wheel cleaning is. I did 2 of them in less than one hour total after reading SuperGoop's post.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=581503

I was a bit skittish at first, but it's truly a simple process. I used regular Q-Tips and some bottled water and nothing else at all. My wheel was so bad, I thought I had the wrong one. The red was a silver-gray color that nearly matched the metal casing around the wheel, the blue was a hazy-light teal, and the green was a vomitish-yellow color. I applied two drops to the tips and started from the center, working srtaight outward with each stroke, much like cleaning a CD.

All of a sudden, I saw red! Whoa! Then a bright blue showed it's face. Nice! Well, I'll be...there's anohter color under there! I worked around the wheel a good 10 times, just letting the 3-5 degree angle of the stroke move the wheel around a tad with each swipe. Then, I simply polished it off with some one-drop Q-tips, going around and around another 10 times, then ones with no water applied at all another 10 rotations.

Now, I didn't see any life-changing differences, which I thought I might, considering that the red looked silver...but I do see much more accurate colors now, along with maybe a 3-5% perceived gain in brightness. Whites definitely are much whiter now.

Anyway, I just wanted to post this to ease some of those doubts that any of you might have about doing this. You have nothing to fear but fear itself...well, that and busting your color wheel if you decide to press on it like you're cleaning paint off of metal. Light strokes is the key! Good luck, all.

Whenever the movie starts which is in wide-screen, I lose about 15 pixels on left and right. I am running the projector in the 16x9 mode and the DVD player (Apex) is set to output in the wide mode. I am complaining that I am getting black borders on ALL sides except in the letter-boxed mode but then people are skinny and subtitles are clipped. I do not have the overscan mode on. If the DVD player is playing the coming attraction or the DVD menu, the entire 16x9 is filled.

When I play the OTA HD via Acurian box, once again again 16x9 is filled when the source is broadcasting in HD mode.

I have had this setup now for more than one year. I am not sure if this is how it always had been and I am just noticing it.

Any comments?

- Vikas

Hello to all; it wanted to do a question to him; I feel it I am synthetic because I do not speak well English. My question is: that so bad is to use the projector by short seciones, that is to say, 2 hours (1 film); as it affects the life of the bulb? A hug and Greetings!

Whenever the movie starts which is in wide-screen, I lose about 15 pixels on left and right. I am running the projector in the 16x9 mode and the DVD player (Apex) is set to output in the wide mode. I am complaining that I am getting black borders on ALL sides except in the letter-boxed mode but then people are skinny and subtitles are clipped. I do not have the overscan mode on. If the DVD player is playing the coming attraction or the DVD menu, the entire 16x9 is filled.

When I play the OTA HD via Acurian box, once again again 16x9 is filled when the source is broadcasting in HD mode.

I have had this setup now for more than one year. I am not sure if this is how it always had been and I am just noticing it.

Any comments?

- Vikas

It sounds like the DVD in question is only 4:3 letterboxed and not truly 16:9. My Mortal Kombat DVD is the same way, and thankfully I use Xbox Media Center which allows me to "Zoom" the picture to fullscreen. I don't know if I'm right about your case, but I don't know that you can alleviate it since it would have nothing to do with your setup, and everything to do with the DVD itself.

Excuse; I clarify 1er question when I say 2 hours, I always talk about in different days; if the life utility is 3000 hours; they would be 1500 startings

From what I understand, it's best to keep the projector on for at least two hours once the bulb is lit because every lighting is basically two hours off the life of the bulb.

I'm using a HTPC I've gotten the sound working good from my X-fi Music (Creative) card (Coaxil Digital out cable). However I'd like to bitmap my computer at a resolution of 848x480 which is the ideal resolution for my projector. I'm using the DVI output and an HDMI input to the reciever, then HDMI to project via MA-D1 or something like that (DVI-M1?). However if I use a resolution outside of like 1280x1024 I get a blank screen. Is their a way to disable whatever conversion the reciever has going on? Or a way I can get this to work through the receiver? Or am I stuck with the higher resolution? It may not be the end of the world since the projector can downgrade or convert whatever image it gets but its not ideal.

Thanks (By the way my graphic card is ATI 1800 something, very new). I was able to get the desired resolution when I directly connected my computer to the projector. However now I am unable to do that because the theater is built and everything has to pass through the reciever.

Alright guys -- I am on my second IF4805, this one has around 800 hours on it (the other developed the light tube problem at around 2300 hours). Sometimes, I start up the projector and things are much dimmer than they should be. Switching to high-power brightens things up slightly but not dramatically. If I power cycle the projector and restart, most of the time the brightness returns with a new strike of the bulb. However, sometimes it stays dim.

Am I nearing the end of this bulb's life? Anything else going on here? There is more to the story than what I am posting here but I'd be interested to hear what people have to say based upon the limited description above.

Just wanted to let everyone know how easy the color wheel cleaning is. I did 2 of them in less than one hour total after reading SuperGoop's post.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=581503

I was a bit skittish at first, but it's truly a simple process. I used regular Q-Tips and some bottled water and nothing else at all.
I hope by "bottled water" you actually mean "distilled water". Regular bottled water is not pure - it contains minerals and other stuff that may leave a film on the glass, or worse, scratch it.

Even distilled water (which is pure), once mixed with the gunk you're trying to clean off, doesn't dry fast enough to eliminate water spots on the glass. That's why others have used alcohol.

Has anyone succeeded in getting 1:1 pixel mapping with a Nvdia video card and a PC used as a DVD player? If so:

What vertical freq. do I set my video card to in the in the NVidia control panel...47.95? And do I need to select a 480i signal vs 480p?

I do know you need a resolution of 854 (or 848) x 480 @48.

I just got my DVI-d to M1 cable and would like to try this...thanks.

I hope by "bottled water" you actually mean "distilled water". Regular bottled water is not pure - it contains minerals and other stuff that may leave a film on the glass, or worse, scratch it.

Even distilled water (which is pure), once mixed with the gunk you're trying to clean off, doesn't dry fast enough to eliminate water spots on the glass. That's why others have used alcohol.

The trace elements of such things as potassium bicarbonate/chloride and magnesium sulfate are so small that they are hardly a serious threat to glass, though a distilled water would be better for repeated cleanings. Alcohol is a VOC, and I don't think it wise to be inhaling the fumes of such for up to an hour straight, even of the "for-household-use" variety. If you must use alcohol, I recommend diluting the solution.

Went home and istalled my new DVI-d to M1 cable, set the projector to Native mode and got 848x480 at 48hz to come up in the ABOUT menu of the projector by tweaking the Nvidia control panel settings. Picture does look great and nicely detailed. So how can I verify that I'm getting 1:1 pixel mapping? Anyone???

Oh, if I'm using Ffdshow will that effect 1:1 pixel mapping??

hi,

just bought the 4805 and wondering if the difference between regular component with a dvd player 480i and bravo d1 1:1 pixel mapping is significant? well, worth $100? :) for now, i'll be using the 4805 w/ component and maybe bravo d1 in the future.

thanks,
trent

Trent,
New(er) 4805 owner here too. Had my 4805 for about 3 weeks now. When I first got it, I was using a Philips DVP-642 over component @480i. I thought it was a great picture. Then I picked up a Snazio 1300 off eBay. Like the Bravo and Momitsu players, it can also do custom DVI outputs (1:1 pixel mapping). I will never go back! The picture detail and color is outstanding. I think it's well worth $100.

Dave,

That's one of, if not the most easy to understand analogies I've ever seen in regard to HD. I particularly like the fact that you gave multiple examples. The only thing I'd change would be to say: " A CD copied from another CD can sound as good as the original." There still are Memorex discs out there, after all. ;)

Yes... no one wants to miss out on the added bass and warmth from some brands of CDs :)

hi,

just bought the 4805 and wondering if the difference between regular component with a dvd player 480i and bravo d1 1:1 pixel mapping is significant? well, worth $100? :) for now, i'll be using the 4805 w/ component and maybe bravo d1 in the future.

thanks,
trent

I tried the component out for about 20 minutes to see if the Farjouda would make difference vs using the M1 to DVI. to me the difference was night and day...no doubt about it. I'm now using M1 to DVI to my HTPC and getting 1:1 mapping and it's just unbelievable compared to component. Sharper and the colors don't look washed out. Go for it!!

Alright guys -- I am on my second IF4805, this one has around 800 hours on it (the other developed the light tube problem at around 2300 hours). Sometimes, I start up the projector and things are much dimmer than they should be. Switching to high-power brightens things up slightly but not dramatically. If I power cycle the projector and restart, most of the time the brightness returns with a new strike of the bulb. However, sometimes it stays dim.

Am I nearing the end of this bulb's life? Anything else going on here? There is more to the story than what I am posting here but I'd be interested to hear what people have to say based upon the limited description above.

The timers are easily reset,(I am guessing that this second one might be used) are you sure it 's only 800 Hrs on the bulb? I have over 1100 hrs on my bulb and it looks the same everytime I turn it on. In fact I have a filter on it because it is still too bright even on low power. It sounds like you might have a bulb issue but certainly a new bulb is too pricey just to try. you could clean every thing filters, color wheel etc and see if that makes any improvement. I guess the bottom line with projectors is: when they work life is great, when they have issues they are expensive to fix and they make you wonder why you ever started in the first place. Don't fool yourself you will miss it if you give up on it so... order a bulb and see if that doesn't solve the problem. if that doesn't solve it you can sell the thing on ebay for parts and get your money back for the bulb!!! ;)

What's up all,

Maybe a new question... I'm flying with my 4805. Can the X-ray/scanner machine do any damage? I talked with an IF rep, and they don't think so... anyone know for sure

I have carried my 4805 to Australia & back regulary with no ill effects. I put it in it's original plastic bag and make sure it's well padded. I also mostly carry it hand luggage although I had to send it with my luggage the last time I travelled. It was well padded and the case was locked. The 4805 arrived safely.

same here, i travel alot with my 4805 with 0 trouble, just make sure it is well pack.

I'm on the hunt for a good but cheaper screen (<$200). 84" diag is the max I can go so that should help with the budget. I'm overwhelmed on all the different choices and was trying to get an idea of what my fellow 4805 owners use. Wish there was a way to do a poll for this.

I made my own 92" from HCCV (got it from Jason of avsscience) and home depot plyboard for approx $200.00

92" DIY BOC for under $25 for me. Looks great.

I'm on the hunt for a good but cheaper screen (<$200). 84" diag is the max I can go so that should help with the budget. I'm overwhelmed on all the different choices and was trying to get an idea of what my fellow 4805 owners use. Wish there was a way to do a poll for this.

I use a DIY screen made with a sheet of vinyl coated 1/4" board from the home depot called Do-able. total cost =$39.00 and it looks fantastic.

I am not sure all HDs have Do-able. I think the two close to me didn't, maybe they do now

I just hooked up my dvd player with a M1 to hdmi cable and when I switch the 4805 to the computer source it just starts searching and then it ends up with the component connection from my cable box. What do I need to change on the projector so that it recognizes the M1 connection? I also hooked up the audio with the optical connection and I do get sound but it does not sound right. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks Craig

I just hooked up my dvd player...but it does not sound right.
Thanks Craig
What player? How does it not sound right?

I just hooked up my dvd player with a M1 to hdmi cable and when I switch the 4805 to the computer source it just starts searching and then it ends up with the component connection from my cable box. What do I need to change on the projector so that it recognizes the M1 connection? I also hooked up the audio with the optical connection and I do get sound but it does not sound right. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks Craig

is the M1 or computer connection enabled in the 4805 check your menu. :eek:

I'll check the menu when I get home. As far as the sound goes its not near as loud as the cable box hookup.

Thanks Craig

I'm on the hunt for a good but cheaper screen (<$200). 84" diag is the max I can go so that should help with the budget. I'm overwhelmed on all the different choices and was trying to get an idea of what my fellow 4805 owners use. Wish there was a way to do a poll for this.
I made my own 87 " diagonal using Draper M1300 material and wood frame for under 200.
This site was helpful for instructions on making a frame: http://www.eldamar.net/house/ht/screenHowTo.html

Thanks for the input guys. Anyone using either a manual or electric roll-up?

thanks sciteck for your previous answer! I am using dvd to pioneer 578A s in 480i; but with some subtitled films; the subtitles are outside screen and menù of the 4805 does not allow adjustments. Còmo is solved this?

As far as the sound goes its not near as loud as the cable box hookup.If you are using the analog output of a Moto cable box, there is a volume control on the analog output and also builtin audio compression! The volume should be set to "optimum" (as shown onscreen) and the compression should be defeated (set to largest dynamic range). When you have done that, then compare audio levels to the optical output.

^To access the above, go to: Menu Main Setup Cable Box Audio.

Has anyone tried Verizon's FiOS Fiber Optic TV service? It is available in my neighborhood, and the package they are offering put Comcast to shame. If you've tried it, can you give us a summary?

Thanks!

DeM3
Arlington VA

I haven't tried it but from what I've read it should put anything Comcrapst can offer to shame in practice as well as in print. Fiberoptic data transmission is capable of so much more than coax. If the price is right I would say give it a try, and then definately tell us all how it works so we can push verizion to offer it in our areas. They just ran the underground conduit for it in our neighborhood but I don't think they have run any fibers yet. I figure that even if the service is the same quality and/or quantity as Comcast or other options that the compitetion will help calm the price of those services.

Good luck,

Brian

PS, I haven't posted in this thread in a long while, but I just wanted to say that I still grin from ear to ear sometimes while watching the images that the 4805 can produce for the price that even I could afford. Even with the EDTV res I LOVE watching HDTV shows, Deadwood looks amazing, so does anything on DiscoveryHD. Thanks to anybody who recomended this projector or helped by posting how-to's or tips.

Later,
Brian

I'm concidering picking up a Bravo D1. Ideally, I'd like to pick one up with the cap mod done already (and loader replaced, if necessary). Anyone know if Vizio sells direct? If so, do you know if they have sent out D1s with cap and loader fixed if asked to do so? If Vizio does not sell direct, what would next best option be (newegg, ebay, etc).

It's doubtful that you'll find one "new" from any source. Vizio, tiger, and newegg won't have ones that have the mods done. Best bet is a fellow AVS member. Loader replacement isn't really necessary, but cap replacement (scariest mod) and dampening methods are.

I just posted this in the "Projectors and Battery Backups" thread, but I thought it might be handy in this thread too:

I just got this remote controlled switch socket for my projector ($20 shipped):

http://www.geeks.com/imageshare/1/300x300/1275-box.jpghttp://www.geeks.com/imageshare/1/300x300/1275-soft.jpg

http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=1275

For those who are manually switching their PJs on and off, this works great.

They are out of stock at geeks.com right now, but you can find them on ebay too.

The up side: when you first plug them into the wall outlet, the default is OFF, not ON. So if your PJ is plugged into one of these and you lose power, the PJ will stay off when the power returns. Plus you have the added convenience of turning it on and off remotely. :)

The down side: I did some testing, and if the power goes out and returns within 1 second, these switches don't turn off. Anything longer than a second, and the switch turns off and stays off. So if you have a "quick flickering" of power, this alone might not prevent PJ/bulb damage.

Edit to add: I forgot to mention that this comes with 3 different outlet switches, all controlled by one remote. So you can control the power to other things as well if the need arises. :)

Those are great, scooterboy. I posted a link to a very similar device a few months back that I found at Eagle Hardware for $7.99. Default off and if power goes out even for a second, it stays off.

I am using DaGamePimp's pixel mapping modeline to run my mythtv box to the 4805 via DVI-D to M1. I am wondering if there is such a thing as sending a higher resolution to the PJ to compare the images via the modeline settings.

Reason why I want to try this is because when sending an HDTV signal to the PJ at 720p and 1080i it would like fantastic. I am wondering if I could make my image look better by increasing the resolution in my modeline. Has anyone tried this with Linux or powerstrip? Does it look any better or worse then an actual pixel-map? If you have, what settings did you use?

Here is DaGamePimp’s modeline

"848x480" 25.167 848 872 960 1056 480 481 484 497 +hsync +vsync

I am tempted to just to tweak the resolution to “1280x720” But I really don’t feel like screwing up my projector, because I know a bad modeline can do that. Any help or advise would be great.

You need PowerStrip to be able to generate the modelines for your linux box.

Sending a higher resolution only works if the source itself is higher resolution - is mythtv HD or just SD?

With all this talk about upgrading to a 720P projector has me torn between upgrading my PJ to an IN76 or upgrade my theater acoustics. Since I watch DVD’s 98% of the time, if I upgrade my PJ, I would need a HD-DVD also. Second, I have a 400-disk DVD player that I would like to replace with a HD model. Problem is, there are none. Third, My 4805 is 1:1 mapped by using my DVDO iScan HD+ video processor resulting in a great picture. So I think I will keep the 4805 for another 6 to 9 months, maybe longer.

Along with upgrading the acoustics I am adding a proscenium arch. The arch is about 90% completed. The acoustic treatment will be 1” fiberglass on 100% of the screen wall and the inside of the proscenium arch. The side and back walls will have treatment from the floor up 44”. Side and back walls will have dark burgundy GOM and the screen wall will have black GOM, along with black velvet masking curtains.

This is still a great projector. I have put over 1800 hrs on this lamp over the past 21 months. 99.9% movie watching, I don’t tweak to much.

I have put over 1800 hrs on this lamp over the past 21 months.

2,186 hours in less than 7 months here. :eek:

2,186 hours in less than 7 months here. :eek:


Thats over 10 hrs a day! Does the whole family use it as a TV?

Yes, the gf and I (kid has his own HT) use it for DVDs, TV, video games, everything. I also will leave it on frequently when doing other things (like posting on AVS :)), since striking the bulb is worse than just leaving it on for the hour of "non-use."

You need PowerStrip to be able to generate the modelines for your linux box.

Sending a higher resolution only works if the source itself is higher resolution - is mythtv HD or just SD?

Hey Kras, thanks for the help

its an HDTV tuner recording in HDTV (1080i and 720p)

Before I post in the screen forum, I thought I'd ask fellow 4805 owners...have any of you tried using foam board as a screen? I tried it out over the weekend, and for only $8, I was pleasantly surprised at the results. But then again, I'm going from a wall to that. Not bad for a portable, albeit fragile and smaller, lightweight screen.

Yes it does work pretty well but it does "hot spot"!

Yes it does work pretty well but it does "hot spot"!

Didn't notice any hot spots. I did notice how HDTV took on a whole new life! Even just SportsCenter with all their pastel and red colors looked amazing. One thing about the board....I bought it from the framing department and the surface was different than the foam board out on the floor for arts and crafts. The arts and crafts foam board has a very shiny white smooth surface. The stuff I got from the framing dept. was a flat, dull white on a very fine texturized surface. Are hot spots more prevelant on the shiny white foam board? I also noticed a lot of light penetrating through the board to the backside. Perhaps if I spray paint the backside with a flat black it might enhance the image. Was also considering doing the front with rust-oleum metallic finish aluminum.

Ok, so my buzz saw sound means I need to get this taken care of. I contacted inFocus and they won't do a replacement unless I upgrade my support for $99, otherwise they just want me to mail them my projector. This is not an option since it is my main TV. I do have a Circuit City extended warranty on it, but it has been discontinued so I can't just go swap it. Any ideas on how I can get this fixed without being TV-less for a month or two?

...Are hot spots more prevelant on the shiny white foam board? I also noticed a lot of light penetrating through the board to the backside. Perhaps if I spray paint the backside with a flat black it might enhance the image. Was also considering doing the front with rust-oleum metallic finish aluminum.

Any shiny, non-matte surface is going to spot like crazy, ragardless of what it's made from. The light that is penetrating through the board is very likely killing the image that you could be seeing. DO NOT do the front with a metallic finish, as 90% of them have flakes, which will not only show up on the board, looking very ugly and grainy, but will send light bouncing everywhere, distorting the image completely. A flat silver, if you can find it, would work much better, if you are going to try it.

Ok, so my buzz saw sound means I need to get this taken care of. I contacted inFocus and they won't do a replacement unless I upgrade my support for $99, otherwise they just want me to mail them my projector. This is not an option since it is my main TV. I do have a Circuit City extended warranty on it, but it has been discontinued so I can't just go swap it. Any ideas on how I can get this fixed without being TV-less for a month or two?

Color wheel cleaning might help. If that doesn't solve it, I would go to CC and very politely, but firmly, demand that they replace it with something comparable to the 4805...maybe you can even sweet-talk them into a IN72.

Any shiny, non-matte surface is going to spot like crazy, ragardless of what it's made from. The light that is penetrating through the board is very likely killing the image that you could be seeing. DO NOT do the front with a metallic finish, as 90% of them have flakes, which will not only show up on the board, looking very ugly and grainy, but will send light bouncing everywhere, distorting the image completely. A flat silver, if you can find it, would work much better, if you are going to try it.

Read this thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=2012359&&#post2012359) and thought MFA might work well. Should I still do the back of the board in flat black?

ksmut,
That's a thread I've read before, and I really enjoyed it. I don't think that 90% of us can paint a 100" screen with a spray can with the uniformity required to achieve a non-distorted picture. Keep in mind that the samples shown look great, but they are tiny samples.

I recommend posting to the DIY Screen Section, so as not to highjack the 4805 thread. You'll get many more responses there anyway, and we won't get grounded or spanked by a moderator. ;)

Hi all !

Long time havent been here.
My 4805 is working great, bulb now have 1950hrs, brightness is significantly lower now.

Wanted to ask - can anyone pm me a good cheap source for new bulbs ? International please.

TIA !

I think I may have lost my M1 input. Has this happened to anyone else? Is there a way to restore it? What's frustrating was it was working not too long ago when I was doing custom DVI inputs with my Snazio NetCinema. Restored to factory defaults on my 4805 and reset my Snazio to 852x480 and got nothing. Tried the cable box DVI out and got nothing. 4805 works fine with component, s-video, and composite, but no DVI! Help!!! Is there another way to check if my DVI is working properly?

I think I may have lost my DVI input. Has this happened to anyone else? Is there a way to restore it? What's frustrating was it was working not too long ago when I was doing custom DVI inputs with my Snazio NetCinema. Restored to factory defaults on my 4805 and reset my Snazio to 852x480 and got nothing. Tried the cable box DVI out and got nothing. 4805 works fine with component, s-video, and composite, but no DVI! Help!!! Is there another way to check if my DVI is working properly?

Hasn't happened to me but I know it has happened to a a number of 4805 owners. The fix was to send it to Infocus for repair.

Hasn't happened to me but I know it has happened to a a number of 4805 owners. The fix was to send it to Infocus for repair.

Oh man...not what I wanted to hear.

Is this really a requirement, I have not cleaned the filters on mine or opened any of the accessible doors since I first got it... going 1.5 years now. I do have some dust blobs outside of the screen area.

Is this really a requirement, I have not cleaned the filters on mine or opened any of the accessible doors since I first got it... going 1.5 years now. I do have some dust blobs outside of the screen area.

OH MY! :eek: I would hate to see the operating temperature on your 4805. :(

You could likely make a very significant dust pile with what's got to be built up on your filters and color wheel as well. :confused:

All I can say is be prepared to buy a new bulb anytime, regardless of how many hours you have on it. :o

Is this really a requirement, I have not cleaned the filters on mine or opened any of the accessible doors since I first got it... going 1.5 years now.It depends entirely on how clean your environment is.

I'm approaching 4000hrs over 13 months; I've removed the screens precisely three times and each time there was so little dust that you wouldn't see it if wiped on a clean white handkerchief.

But I have a controlled theatre environment with filtered air and noone is allowed to smoke on my property, let alone in the theatre.

I have seen other home systems where dust bunnies are floating through the projector beam and sticky cigarette tar clings to every surface!! In that situation would be critical to the life of your projector (not just the bulb!) to clean your filters regularily!!

I just posted this in the "Projectors and Battery Backups" thread, but I thought it might be handy in this thread too:

I just got this remote controlled switch socket for my projector ($20 shipped):

http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=1275

That looks like a great thing to have but does anyone make these IR? I have a Harmony 880 that I want to use for everything and having 1 RF device would really spoil the niceness of having 1 remote to do it all....

Wonder if you can crack these open and add an IR eye somehow...

Well I am picking up my 4805 from Best buy tommorow,they had none in stock earlier with a shipment coming in later so I getting it tommorow. I am also ordering the Bravo D1 and a DVI to M1 cable tonight.

Called Infocus support today about my M1 input not working. Right out of the gate, the customer service agent asked me if I was using the Infocus brand DVI->M1 cable. I said no, I was using a cable I bought from monoprice.com. He then told me that even though my M1 input was working with a non-Infocus cable for past 1.5 months (out of 2 months and 23 lamp hours) that my cable had failed and I should replace it and try again. He continued to tell me that he has never heard of the M1 input failing and that all of the M1 issues he’s dealt with had always been a cable issue. This seems suspicious to me. Was he making these statements because I wasn't using one of their cables? I'm curious, how can a cable fail? If anyone has had their M1 input fail, please PM me or respond to this. I'd love to know, as I'm sure others would too, how many of us there are and how IF handled the situation.

ksmut,
I know other users have come in with the similar problems. DVI from the M1 wouldn't work while vga from m1 had no issues and in the end it's usually the case that the 4805 does need to go in for repair. Personally, I'd like to avoid having to send my projector in and would try other solutions such as another cable first. The 4805 came with the m1 to vga cable, see if that works with your 4805 using a pc. Also try your dvi cable with another dvi source like a pc.

There is an Infocus 4805 locally available for $400 that has been "barely used". I've been interested in an entry level HD projector for a while, primarily for HDTV, DVDs and SDTV. Although I'd like to hook my PC up I doubt the 854x480 resolution would look very good (although 720p sounds like it would look great).

Is this a good buy? Or should I hold off and save my money for a Sharp XR-10X or even longer for a ~$1000 720p? This model appears to be a couple years old.

I would go for the 4805.

Called Infocus support today about my M1 input not working. Right out of the gate, the customer service agent asked me if I was using the Infocus brand DVI->M1 cable. I said no, I was using a cable I bought from monoprice.com. He then told me that even though my M1 input was working with a non-Infocus cable for past 1.5 months (out of 2 months and 23 lamp hours) that my cable had failed and I should replace it and try again. He continued to tell me that he has never heard of the M1 input failing and that all of the M1 issues he’s dealt with had always been a cable issue. This seems suspicious to me. Was he making these statements because I wasn't using one of their cables? I'm curious, how can a cable fail? If anyone has had their M1 input fail, please PM me or respond to this. I'd love to know, as I'm sure others would too, how many of us there are and how IF handled the situation.

I had the exact same problem with my SP4805. Infocus finally replaced the circuit board and fixed that problem...but, a new problem resulting in too pink image thru component was created. What turned out to be a frustrating experience ended ok by Infocus replacing my SP4805 with a refurbished unit. (After my insistence on a replacement.) In all it appeared to be a new unit with a new lamp.

You've got your work cut out for you. First (to satisfy Infocus Tech) try a new shorter Infocus M1-DVI, if that doesn't work (mine didn't) insist on speaking with a Tech support supervisor and insist on a RMA to repair or replace the projector.

(Tech support will tell you that the M1-DVI only works on short cables-in spite of their selling a 10 meter length..just a lot of bunk IMO)

Here's the link to my problem:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=669862

Good Luck,
sgibson

There is an Infocus 4805 locally available for $400 that has been "barely used". I've been interested in an entry level HD projector for a while, primarily for HDTV, DVDs and SDTV. Although I'd like to hook my PC up I doubt the 854x480 resolution would look very good (although 720p sounds like it would look great).

Is this a good buy? Or should I hold off and save my money for a Sharp XR-10X or even longer for a ~$1000 720p? This model appears to be a couple years old.

Steal that 4805 right away. If you don't want it, PM me and I'll buy it up at that price. Just out of curiousity, what's "barely used"? (Lamp hours)

Don't even doubt the 854X480 looking good. There's a reason that this PJ has so many buyers and over 1 million reads on the first 4805 thread (not to mention the second thread that's growing every day).

Yeah I called and emailed the guy, waiting for him to get back to me. Who knows if it's still available.

:( It was posted on craigslist a week ago, he sold it this morning :(.

There is an Infocus 4805 locally available [...] Or should I hold off and save my money for a Sharp XR-10X These two projectors are not in the same class at all. The 4805 is a very high performance ED 16:9 home theatre projector; the Sharp is a 4:3 multimedia unit. No contest. Shouldn't even be in the same sentence. IMHO.

For being a multimedia projector it sure has some HT popularity on this forum.

For being a multimedia projector it sure has some HT popularity on this forum.

The Sharp unit has popularity for HT in this forum?

The Sharp unit has popularity for HT in this forum?

Well.....500 posts in the sharp thread vs...5000 in this thread. :)