The 2nd Official Infocus 4805 Thread. [Text View] - Page 21

Gabriel Turf

07-21-06, 07:56 PM

I am at a loss. After 1.5 years and 650 hours with my SP4805 I have a choice to make.

I have 2 problems. One is minor, it is the buzzsaw issue that goes away as the projector warms up.

The other (in the photograph of my screen below) is the mirrored light tube coming unglued and giving me the amber colored wedge shaped shadow on the right side of the screen.

I called Costco and asked if they could get me a new one and I was told they do not have any projectors instore but do have some on the website. I told her I didn't feel comfortable getting a refund and her actual response was "Sir, we do not want a single customer owning an item from Costco that they are not 100% satisfied with. Bring it back and I will refund you the full amount".

This is why I shop with them anyway but it is besides the point.

My choice right now:

1.Do I order an SP4805 from the manufacturer for $300 less than what I paid for the SP4805? This option does not have the Costco "Forever warranty". And I would be concerned that I may get only 2 years out of it.

2.Do I buy an IN72 for $100 less than what I paid for the SP4805? I know very little about them other than it is the replacement for the SP4805 and is built a little better. This also is without the Costco warranty and it will not fit my motorized projector mount that I made for the 4805.

3.Do I buy a Panasonic AE900 from Costco for $400 MORE than what I will be refunded for the sp4805? It comes with a $300 Blockbuster gift card. It is hi-def( I do have an OTA hi def tuner). It will not fit width wise on my projector mount though. I have heard a few negatives about the "soft" image on the panny. I would like to hear from anyone on this projector who has both because I have begun to sell off all of my dvd collection in anticipation of hi def dvd players.

A note about the projector mount is that that photo with it up is probably the first time it has been up in 6 months. We watch the projector every single night. It doesn't mean much if the projector is a little too wide.

I am leaning towards the Panny as am upgrade to hi-def and a good policy from costco. Let me know what you guys would do?

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/506/IMG_1042.JPG
http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/506/IMG_1018.JPG
http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/506/IMG_1019.JPG

tradewinds

07-21-06, 09:17 PM

That is such an excellent idea to have the PJ pushed up in the ceiling. I only wish I knew how this would have been done with floor trusses. My floor trusses just got installed last week. Damn.

Oh, I read your complete post and it is MOTORIZED!!! Wow, that is great! How did you build it?

spyder696969

07-21-06, 09:22 PM

Gabriel,

What about option #4? Upgrade to a IN76?

If it were me, I'd probably go route #1, take the extra $300 and spend it on replacing those DVDs you sold with HD/BR ones...BUT...I would only do that IF the new PJ comes with the IF 2 year warantee. Costco warantee aside, you'll be ready to upgrade in 2 years anyway, and 720/1080 PJs will cost much less by then.

IF you cannot get the 2 year IF warantee, then maybe go with the 72 and the $100 used for movies. It's supposed to have a better light engine.

In regard to your color wheel, a simple cleaning might help. I did it in under 30 minutes total time to 2 different 4805s. (Not that that matters in your case with the shadow.)

My big question is: What is on your front exhaust cover of your current 4805 in the picture? It looks like dust or discoloration to the grille.

Gabriel Turf

07-21-06, 10:38 PM

Oh, I read your complete post and it is MOTORIZED!!! Wow, that is great! How did you build it?

It has a remote controlled hydraulic type arm(from an old 10 foot satellite dish) a couple of pulleys some drawer slides and some brided wire for the lift mechanism.

I need to get a diagram togethor to explain it.

Gabriel Turf

07-21-06, 11:05 PM

My big question is: What is on your front exhaust cover of your current 4805 in the picture? It looks like dust or discoloration to the grille.

I did see a $300 rebate that is good on the IN72 that would make it cheaper than the 4805.

The IN76 was a little more than I wanted to spend.

That stuff you see on the front of the projector is a combination of the flash at close range and the light spill out of the front of the projector, but it does look like dust. The projector actually still looks brand new. weird, maybe I should take a better photo.

Ja Phule

07-22-06, 04:40 AM

Hi!

I got another problem with my 4805. When I am looking at movies using my dvdplayer with dvi connection to my 4805 all the black parts of the picture gets very filled with noise. I don't have this problem when I am using component cable . Has anyone the same problem as I? The picture is very good except of the black parts of the picture...

/Johan

It sounds like a calibration issue. It seems the picture from your DVI input from your dvd player has a higher brightness. If you bump down the brightness some, then the noise should disappear. I would suggest correctly calibrating your dvd player with the 4805. When using dvi, you should set the 4805 RGB gain and offset to 58/28.5. See the FAQ in my signature about calibration and using the DVI input.

Ja Phule

07-22-06, 04:48 AM

Gabriel,
What about another projector like the Optoma 6800 or Sharp Z2000?

Gabriel Turf

07-22-06, 06:58 AM

Gabriel,
What about another projector like the Optoma 6800 or Sharp Z2000?
2 more possibilities. I am going to read up on both of them today. Thanks.

sas_aaron

07-22-06, 01:35 PM

Fan & Ventilation

1) Hi i would like to ask which way is the air entering into the projector SP4805 for ventilation?

Front Ventilation Port, Side Ventilation Port or Rear Ventilation Port?

2) it has weird electrical buzz sound coming out from REAR Ventilation Port of the SP4805, and i am still unable to solve this problem after 4 months.

Now i got no choice but to think up of other ideas.

one of my ideas is to custom a mini box to cover the REAR side (a shoebox with an 10cm by 5cm opening for ventilation, in such a way that it redirects the ventilation and noise upwards to the ceiling instead. i tried it, and it lessen the electric buzz alot). can my idea be used without damaging the projector or hinder the ventilation?

spyder696969

07-22-06, 01:48 PM

sas_aaron,

Do a search for "hush box" and you'll find a ton of info on how to build a very reliable and robust one. I wouldn't recommend using a shoe box, unless you value the noise reduction more than you value your entire home. With the heat these generate, that seems like begging for a visit from the fire department.

cavu

07-22-06, 04:04 PM

2) it has weird electrical buzz sound coming out from REAR Ventilation Port of the SP4805Have you turned the "VOLUME" down to "0" on your SP4805??!!

Does your "rear ventilation port" look like this??

http://www.flying-colors.org/SP4805SPKR.jpg

If so, this is the LOUDSPEAKER contained in the SP4805.

Many owners either never knew or forget that there is a loudspeaker in the SP4805. If nothing is plugged into the audio inputs on the back of the projector and the volume is not turned down to "0", a buzzing sound can often be heard.

Gabriel Turf

07-22-06, 11:41 PM

Well guys, I made my decision and ordered the IN72 instead of stepping into 720p territory for now.

My reasoning is that HD/DVDs are new and the prices of both the dvds, players, and projectors will come down drastically over the next couple of years as the quality continues to rise.

Secondly, I was very happy with the image of my 4805 and the HD OTA looked awesome on it. My real issues were build quality related that were within the warranty period. I am hoping this stuff has been addressed in the IN72.

The main point was really price. The panny was the only one close with HD and it was $350 more than I would have gotten refunded for the 4805. The price I just ordered the IN72 at was $365 LESS than what I will get back from my 4805. In my opinion the AE900 is not worth $715 more than the IN72. ($715 can buy me a nice generator for the winter(from Costco of course!).

My plan is in two years to sell the IN72(I can't lose much, these things are a steal with IF rebate). At that point I will jump into the full HD setup. For now, what I haven't seen on my screen can't hurt me LOL.

Thanks to you guys who provided your thoughts. I will give my thoughts on the IN72 when it arrives.

tama102

07-23-06, 01:55 AM

Alright, one other pixel mapping question. I am running a linux mythtv setup with an Nvidia 6200. I set it up with a modeline for 848x480. When I turn on the computer, the 4805 displays the correct 848x480 resolution. But, right after the Nvidia card loads, the 4805 fliskers and displays a resolution of 1024x768. I did confirm that my mythtv is sending an 848x480 signal. Therefore, the 4805 is reading the resolution incorrectly. I am affraid that it the PJ is upscaling the 848x480 resolution to 1024x768, and then downconverting it again to 848x480. Has anyone ever experienced this? Is the PJ actually pixel-mapping the 848x480 to me and simply posting the wrong input resolution? Thanks

cavu

07-23-06, 03:10 AM

Therefore, the 4805 is reading the resolution incorrectly.The 4805 is not reading the resolution incorrectly.

If it says "1024x768", then that's what it is receiving. It doesn't make this stuff up!

Go back to your drawing board and figure out what is really happening with your computer.

sas_aaron

07-23-06, 11:21 AM

Have you turned the "VOLUME" down to "0" on your SP4805??!!

Does your "rear ventilation port" look like this??

http://www.flying-colors.org/SP4805SPKR.jpg

If so, this is the LOUDSPEAKER contained in the SP4805.

Many owners either never knew or forget that there is a loudspeaker in the SP4805. If nothing is plugged into the audio inputs on the back of the projector and the volume is not turned down to "0", a buzzing sound can often be heard.

Hi the "rear ventilation port" i refering to is the one with the whole set of video inputs. it has electric buzzing sound come off from one of the internal component of the Projector, and the noise can be distinctly heard from both REAR and SIDE ventilation ports.

yeah i already turn down to "0" but never solve it..

spyder696969

07-23-06, 11:35 AM

...it has electric buzzing sound come off from one of the internal component of the Projector, and the noise can be distinctly heard from both REAR and SIDE ventilation ports...

Buzzing like a buzzsaw or more of a humming noise? Does the sound intensify if you go from eco to high power?

sas_aaron

07-23-06, 11:48 AM

Buzzing like a buzzsaw or more of a humming noise? Does the sound intensify if you go from eco to high power?

It not a buzzsaw nor humming noise. i can double confirm its not a buzzsaw problem cos i sent my proj for servicing because of the color wheel buzz saw problem, then its fixed nicely.

But the "electric buzzing" sounds like two live wires sparks when they contact each other. it is a constant sound which can last more than few minutes each time, and when i watch a full 2-hour movie it can happen about 4 - 5 times. How to watch when the sound can make u get irritated? :(

ksmut

07-23-06, 03:58 PM

ksmut,
I know other users have come in with the similar problems. DVI from the M1 wouldn't work while vga from m1 had no issues and in the end it's usually the case that the 4805 does need to go in for repair. Personally, I'd like to avoid having to send my projector in and would try other solutions such as another cable first. The 4805 came with the m1 to vga cable, see if that works with your 4805 using a pc. Also try your dvi cable with another dvi source like a pc.

Funny you mention the VGA->M1 cable. I asked the Tech if I could use that cable to test the M1 input. He said sure but the M1 input WOULD probably work because VGA is not a true digital signal (huh?). He said to use a video card that has a DVI out to make an 'apples to apples' comparison. I recently (re)discovered that my video card has both VGA and DVI out (Radeon 9200). Will try both and see. I guess I’m still having a problem with the tech saying that my cable failed. How is that possible?

I had the exact same problem with my SP4805. Infocus finally replaced the circuit board and fixed that problem...but, a new problem resulting in too pink image thru component was created. What turned out to be a frustrating experience ended ok by Infocus replacing my SP4805 with a refurbished unit. (After my insistence on a replacement.) In all it appeared to be a new unit with a new lamp.

You've got your work cut out for you. First (to satisfy Infocus Tech) try a new shorter Infocus M1-DVI, if that doesn't work (mine didn't) insist on speaking with a Tech support supervisor and insist on a RMA to repair or replace the projector.

(Tech support will tell you that the M1-DVI only works on short cables-in spite of their selling a 10 meter length..just a lot of bunk IMO)

Here's the link to my problem:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=669862

Good Luck,
sgibson

The second question the tech had for me (the first being what brand of cable I had) was how long my cable was. When I told him it was 6ft, he stalled out. Took him a couple of seconds to say, “Well since it’s not our cable, I can’t tell you much. Your cable probably failed.” Like Infocus cables are any better?!?! What really set me off with this Tech was that he said he's never had a M1 input fail and he's done almost all of the RMA's for the 4805. What barrel of monkey do-do!! When I told him I knew otherwise from this very forum, he didn't have a comeback. He again said, "Try a new cable." Read through your thread(s). You went through quite an ordeal but as you said, they made right by giving you a different 4805. If I have to RMA and get the "pink" problem with my component inputs, I will see red!!!

cavu

07-23-06, 04:09 PM

He said sure but the M1 input WOULD probably work because VGA is not a true digital signal (huh?). He said to use a video card that has a DVI out to make an 'apples to apples' comparison. Which part of that don't you understand?

VGA is an analog signal which uses the RGB analog connections included in the M1-DA plug.

DVI/HDMI uses the digital connections included in the M1-DA plug.

"VGA" and "digital" have nothing at all to do with one another.

zaphod7501

07-23-06, 06:06 PM

he said he's never had a M1 input fail and he's done almost all of the RMA's for the 4805.As an electronic technician, I wonder how the 4805 determines which input to use, DVI or VGA, since there is no user selectable method that I can see. If there was then you could build a combo DVI and VGA cable and switch between them at will.

Since it apparently auto switches then a cable that grounds out the unused inputs or connects specific pins might be required for proper input switching. This would account for a situation where the InFocus cable or adapter works and the aftermarket one does not and length would be an issue also.

Swapping the input board might just be a "keep the customer happy" repair that incidentally solves the problem because it would affect the switching detection. Unless they tell us how the switching works, I can only guess.

Dan Forsyth

07-23-06, 06:24 PM

Two questions,how would HD DVD look on my 4805? Good enought to buy one,i might get a second gen one. Also how can I split the M1 port I cant find anything so I can have multiple m1 inputs.

spyder696969

07-23-06, 07:05 PM

Two questions,how would HD DVD look on my 4805? Good enought to buy one,i might get a second gen one. Also how can I split the M1 port I cant find anything so I can have multiple m1 inputs.

You can't split the M1 to have input from 2 different units. Splitters only work in such a way as to send the signal out to two different displays. You can, however, get a HDMI switchbox from somewhere like monopice.com (hint, hint) for <$30.

Dan Forsyth

07-23-06, 09:46 PM

Thing is I am going to have my Bravo D1 hooked up with a DVI m1 cable,man this is confusing.

Ja Phule

07-23-06, 10:38 PM

Dan,
If you haven't hooked up HDTV to the 4805 yet, you should, it's going to look great. HD DVD will look great also.

Dan Forsyth

07-23-06, 11:25 PM

Yeah I am going to get D* HD box within a few weeks cant wait.

spyder696969

07-23-06, 11:35 PM

Thing is I am going to have my Bravo D1 hooked up with a DVI m1 cable,man this is confusing.

Nothing to be confused about. Get the DVI to HDMI adapters from monoprice.com and hook up both the D1 and D* to the switchbox found there. Run the output from the switch to the 4805. Simple.

Dan Forsyth

07-23-06, 11:46 PM

Lol,I already ordered my 25' dvi to m1:) Well I guess when I get my D*box ill have to do some re-ordering.

Ja Phule

07-23-06, 11:55 PM

I watch HD via component, and it still looks great.

jwv651

07-24-06, 11:39 AM

I watch HD via component, and it still looks great.I'm going to hook up my Dish 811 to my 4805...I would like to see how HD looks on the 4805...probably try Componet and DVI...is there any settings that need to be changed on either the 811 or the 4805. :confused:

Ja Phule

07-24-06, 02:32 PM

I'm going to hook up my Dish 811 to my 4805...I would like to see how HD looks on the 4805...probably try Componet and DVI...is there any settings that need to be changed on either the 811 or the 4805. :confused:

You should probably adjust the 4805 gains/offsets on the DVI input to 58/28.5.

aaron-b

07-25-06, 07:24 PM

I tried to hook up my laptop computer to my 4805 using a vga to component connector. However, the projector doesn't can't seem to set up the image coming from the laptop. It says "....searching.... trying to set up image.... searching".

I've used this same connector and laptop on another mitsubishi projector and it worked well.

Any advice?
Thanks.

Ja Phule

07-25-06, 08:26 PM

aaron-b

07-26-06, 12:28 PM

Sorry I should have been more clear. This setup is in a dedicated home theater. There is an equipment room seperate from the theater located about 20 feet from the projector itself. I only ran composite and component cables from that room to the projector. I want to dock the laptop in the equipment room where I would hook up the audio to the reciver and the video to the projector. That little M1 to VGA cable just isnt' long enough and I don't have a VGA cable running between the two rooms.

Since I had been using that little converter previously with another projector I assumed it would work fine with the 4805. The vga to component connector I'm using looks like this: http://www.ramelectronics.net/assets/images/video/55-873-RCA-6.jpg

Any suggestions?

Ja Phule

07-26-06, 02:28 PM

aaron-b

07-26-06, 05:06 PM

Haha, creative but that won't work either. Since I only have one set of component cables running to the projector I would have to physically remove the vga connector from the compnent cable in the equipment room and plug it into my reciver when watching anything but the computer.

I'm surprised that nobody else has tried this, I thought it would have been a common issue. As it stands it looks as though i'll have to pull a VGA cable through the wall (possible but not practical)

Thanks for your help.

daveyhatton

07-26-06, 11:09 PM

So, I've had my SP4805 for about 1 yr. and 5 mo. with about 2900 hours total. 1300 on a bogus bulb out of box (Dim, but I didn't know due to lack of reference), and about 1600 on a replacement bulb w/warranty.

I've had the color wheel buzzing from time to time, which goes away after warm up, but over the last two weeks I noticed the infamous yellow-brown streak on the right side, in which I've read on these forums, is related the the light tube becoming "unglued"

My first question is (and I don't know if this can be discussed) how much the light tube repair costs. It almost seems like it would be better just to get a new PJ for many obvious reasons (new bulb, etc..)

BUT, this seems like a serious design flaw with the 4805, in that so many people on these forums have experienced the issue. (I wonder if it has something to do with being ceiling mounted?) I can probably live with it for a while longer by over-enlarging the screen a bit, etc., but as much as I love my projector, it's obvious that it just doesn't stand the test of time

It would be nice to know if Infocus has corrected the issue with newer 4805's or that this isn't an issue with comparable models. Any words of advice?

Thanks in advance!!!

PJLinke

07-31-06, 06:15 PM

Good Afternoon Everyone

I now have had my PJ for about 5 months now and I am loving every second of it. I just bought an XBOX360 and HOLY COW does that look sweet.

That said, I have a frequent problem that I am hoping someone can help me with. I have my PJ connected to my DirecTivo unit, as well as my 360 through my Panasonic receiver. Both units are connected via Componant video, and the output of the receiver is also componant.

Frequently, when there is something on TV that is extreemly bright, a lot of times with explosions or commercials with a white background, my PJ will go to stop displaying the picture, and the "Video 2 setting up device" prompt will display at the bottom of the screen.

Has anyone else run into this problem/know what to do to correct it? I PJ is ceiling mounted and is set to use most of the defaults.

- PJ (yes.. that is my name believe it or not, only right I should be using a projector I suppose)

spyder696969

07-31-06, 06:43 PM

...My first question is (and I don't know if this can be discussed) how much the light tube repair costs. It almost seems like it would be better just to get a new PJ for many obvious reasons (new bulb, etc..) ...

The repair typically costs more than the PJ itself. :(

Martin Butler

07-31-06, 10:51 PM

spyder696969

08-01-06, 12:52 AM

My cables are pricey and I can't rationalize selling them at a loss and then re-buying the same brand in a longer length. (I like my Harmonic Technology cables).

For a second, I thought you were going to say they were Monster Cables. :eek: Yeah, there's nothing like knowing you have cables that are overpriced for no reason over inexpensive quality cables like the ones from Monoprice that everyone likes. :rolleyes:

Ja Phule

08-01-06, 02:26 AM

Martin Butler

08-01-06, 09:38 AM

Spyder, the least you could do when crackin' wise would be to address my question regarding extending component cables with an adapter. First of all the Harmonic Technology cables are in the same price range as most brands including Monster, Blue Jean, Monoprice and others. It's the 8 meter length that makes the cables pricey. It might have been more interesting and informative to ask why I prefered the H.T. cables over other brands, but I gather from your post that you already know it all, so I'll leave you to your preferences.

tradewinds

08-01-06, 09:59 AM

Yeah, an 8 meter (or feet, whichever) pair is almost $2000.00. Now that is rediculous. I hope my ears never becomes that sensitive. Luckily we loose hearing when we age.

sas_aaron

08-01-06, 11:59 AM

spyder696969

08-01-06, 12:35 PM

My video cables ar 6 meters long... My cables are pricey and I can't rationalize selling them...(I like my Harmonic Technology cables).

Looks like you said it yourself that even the 6 meter were pricey...and it sounds (from those words) like bragging.

spyder696969

08-01-06, 12:37 PM

First of all the Harmonic Technology cables are in the same price range as most brands including Monster, Blue Jean, Monoprice and others.

Yeah, right... :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

From the HT and Monoprice websites, $10 does not equal $390! Compare both below.

http://www.harmonictech.com/products/harmony_rainbow.html

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10235&cs_id=1023501&p_id=322&seq=1&format=2&style=

Cataphract

08-01-06, 01:23 PM

First of all the Harmonic Technology cables are in the same price range as most brands including Monster, Blue Jean, Monoprice and others.

It's the 8 meter length that makes the cables pricey. It might have been more interesting and informative to ask why I prefered the H.T. cables over other brands, but I gather from your post that you already know it all, so I'll leave you to your preferences.

No they are not Martin. I just checked a few sites that sell Harmonic Tech cables and OMG :eek: :eek:. Sorry Martin I don't have an answer to your original question, but I just found a Subwoofer interconnect cable from HTC that they are selling in excess of $ 2K :eek:

Monster and Monoprice can only be put in one sentence when comparing quality, price comparison between the two simply cannot be made due to the humoungous price diff b/w the two.

I am curious as to how come you spend a fortune on the cables (in thousands, i am guessing??) and then still ended up buying a modestly prices PJ such as the 4805??

Not to diss my beloved 4805, but if money is no object, then I am sure there are much better choices out there.

I for one got worried when my overall cabling bill (audio + video) came around $ 200. I wish i had found Monoprice earlier

Martin Butler

08-01-06, 01:25 PM

Hughman

08-01-06, 01:38 PM

Elfman

08-01-06, 01:47 PM

Image Flickering from Lamp

I found that the image does flicker for a few mintues. It is not happening most of the time, just once or twice a movie, each time lasting about not more than 5 mintutes.

The image has occasional flickers which i would describe it to be from the lamp, which is like a glowing candle flame being repeatedly slightly-brighter-and-slightly-dimmer.

is this occasional lamp flicker from SP4805 normal?

Yes, this is normal.

Picture the inside of your lamp like 2 pencil leads pointing at each other. When your lamp is struck, energy arcs across these two points. Molecularly, the surfaces are imperfect and can sometimes cause this light to move around the surface of these pencil points until the energy finds the "path of least resistance" and settles in. Bob Williams (4805 engineer at InFocus) mentioned this in the first 4805 thread way back when. Sometimes putting your PJ in High Power mode briefly can help settle it down. I think Bob even mentioned bumping your PJ to help settle it down but I am still too scared to even touch my PJ let alone gently bumping it while it is on. If it is really noticeable, I will just put it into high power mode fora minute or two. Otherwise, I just wait it out.

Each time you strike your lamp and use it, it gradually dulls these to pencil points as it destroys the molecules. This is why your lamp will over time eventually get dimmer since the gap between the two points becomes greater and greater. The gap eventually becomes so great that the lamp "dies". Fortunately, this shouldn't be until after about 2000+ hours of use.

This might be a little more information than you needed but I found this info usefeul. That is why you shouldn't really worry about anything you see in your image until after about 15 or so minutes of use and after it as warmed up.

Martin Butler

08-01-06, 01:52 PM

Thanks Hugh. That's exactly what I was asking about. I too noticed a slight change when going from 2 meters to 6, but if I most likely won't notice much difference from adding a few more feet it would be very cool.

*I asked about this in the 4805 thread because I'm a long time 4805 owner and many of the posters here are both helpful and quite adept at getting the best out of their gear while saving on costs. After all, I think the 4805 was one of the best bangs for the buck ever.

Martin Butler

08-01-06, 02:05 PM

Cataphract, sorry, I missed your post earlier. My Harmonic Technology silver component cables are listed here for $150 in a two meter length:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=610478&goto=newpost

Unfortunately, they are no longer available in longer lengths. When I bought mine an additional meter was $25, so $150 plus $$100 for 4 meters extra totals $250. It might have been a little more expensive at the time I bought them. Their new Silver Component Plus line costs $279 for 2 meters and $25 for each additional meter. Not cheap, but certainly not the stratospheric end of cable pricing. Hope that clears thing up a bit.

jwv651

08-01-06, 02:16 PM

Who cares what anybody pays for their cable...it's their money and I didn't think anyone was bragging. Hell I have used Monoprice for hdmi/dvi cables and they are just fine...but when it came to bi-wiring my speakers I spent a small fortune and had them custom made and as long as I feel I can hear the difference the money was well spent. As long as your happy with you gear who cares what you spend. ;)

Devedander

08-01-06, 02:17 PM

Yes, this is normal.

Picture the inside of your lamp like 2 pencil leads pointing at each other. When your lamp is struck, energy arcs across these two points. Molecularly, the surfaces are imperfect and can sometimes cause this light to move around the surface of these pencil points until the energy finds the "path of least resistance" and settles in. Bob Williams (4805 engineer at InFocus) mentioned this in the first 4805 thread way back when. Sometimes putting your PJ in High Power mode briefly can help settle it down. I think Bob even mentioned bumping your PJ to help settle it down but I am still too scared to even touch my PJ let alone gently bumping it while it is on. If it is really noticeable, I will just put it into high power mode fora minute or two. Otherwise, I just wait it out.

Each time you strike your lamp and use it, it gradually dulls these to pencil points as it destroys the molecules. This is why your lamp will over time eventually get dimmer since the gap between the two points becomes greater and greater. The gap eventually becomes so great that the lamp "dies". Fortunately, this shouldn't be until after about 2000+ hours of use.

This might be a little more information than you needed but I found this info usefeul. That is why you shouldn't really worry about anything you see in your image until after about 15 or so minutes of use and after it as warmed up.

Interesting... this is the exact issue I have been having but I thought the conclusion both here (and from infocus) was that it would sort of burn in over time... I am near 1000 hours and still get the flickering quite often... I find it very distracting and unpleasant (I have sensitive eyes I guess) but between everyone here saying that after a few hours in high power (I let it run 10 straight once) and switching to high power and back (the flicker always returns for me right away) it should go away I am thinking those of us who have had it quite a while are experiencing some kind of defect in the product.

When I sent mine in for cleaning they said they were unable to reproduce the flickering, but as was described it might be difficult to notice and it is rather a candle flicker thing... I don't know... I don't like it....

Devedander

08-01-06, 02:22 PM

My video cables ar 6 meters long. I'm changing things around and now need 7 to 8 meters. My cables are pricey and I can't rationalize selling them at a loss and then re-buying the same brand in a longer length. (I like my Harmonic Technology cables).

I wondered if anyone has ever added an "extension" set of component cables with some kind of connector barrel and if so, how did it affect the video quality?

* just sent my 4805 in to be checked out while there's a couple of weeks left on the warrranty. I've been hearing the grinding noise lately and although it usually goes away after a few minutes, it can't be a good thing.

First of all, unless you have a really bad environment, considering how robust the component signal tends to be I would not worry about high end cables. If you really like to know that you have expensive cables then it's your money to do with as you like, but I can't see it being at all cost effective to stick with expensive cables.

Secondly introducing any kind of connector just sounds like trouble... you introduce 2 more physical connections at least into the system which my gut tells me is asking for trouble. I would think it would pretty much remove any of the value of having a super expensive cable (that last .005% of extra quality you paid $300 for would go right out the door).

A chain is only as strong as it's weakest link, so you would have to find connectors as high quality as your expensive cables (not sure what the qualities the cable has but if it was on a price point basis I guess you would want barrel connectors that cost $150 each or something).

Personally I think it's up to you to decide if the expensive cables really are of better quality, but it bothers me that you would claim value in the quality of expensive cables and not understand the inherent issues with using any kind of connnector/extender....

I would just get a set of cables from monoprice that is the right length, try it out (it will only cost you a few bucks to do it) and if you decided it's not good (I will be surprised) you can always explore more expensive routes.

However if (and I realy do feel it's a when) you decide the monoprice cables provide performance that is not noticeably different from your $300 cables, be happy you got your problem solved for cheap and try not to cry too much about how much money you tossed into expensive cables.

And as always when high priced cables come up I have to go back and take a look at monsters awesome lineup...

http://monstercable.com/THX/productPage.asp?pin=1714

http://monstercable.com/productPage.asp?pin=1263

I always love the reviews by people who say stuff like:

"Unreal quality. Sounded like I upgraded my speakers."

Amazing considering it's the EXACT SAME 1's and 0's so actually NOTHING CHANGED AT ALL.

"NOW I OWN MONSTERS TOP OPTICAL CABLE. IT CAN MAKE PRISTINE TRANSFERS OF COMPACT DISCS AND MP3S."

Gotta love paying $100 for an optical cable to transfer a compressed lossy format... The gold plating takes away the lossiness I guess.

:)

cavu

08-01-06, 02:44 PM

my question regarding extending component cables with an adapter.Assuming your fancy cables can actually deliver one iota of the claims made for them (which I sincerely doubt), the WORST POSSIBLE THING you could do would be to introduce additional connections between the target and the source. It is well accepted that "connectors" are the weak link in ANY wiring.

So, either: Accept that the cables are nothing special and extend them **; or Swallow your $$$/pride and buy some proper length MP cables!

** You might even "like" the artifacts created the way undereducated people like video EE ;)

Ja Phule

08-01-06, 02:51 PM

Not too fond of the connectors used in the cheap monoprice cable.
http://images.monoprice.com/productmediumimages/3221.jpg

I just ordered the premium component cables from monoprice, I prefer the connector used in those cables.
http://images.monoprice.com/productmediumimages/27701.jpg

spyder696969

08-01-06, 03:19 PM

Spyder, what's up with all the attitude?
Why not go to Harmonic Tech's website and check your facts before blowing hot air?
Forgive me if by "pricey", I meant expensive (relative to me alone). I'm comparing price to the generic brands you might find at various A/V outlets.

You still haven't attempted to help with my question, does anyone here have experience adding a meter or two to a set of component cables with an adapter, and if so, did you notice a loss in quality?

It seemed price was your concern here, so thus the reference to Monoprice.

Isn't this the link to HT? http://www.harmonictech.com/

Didn't I just post an HT link a few post back? How is that hot air? :confused:

You compared HT's prices to Monoprice, Blue Jeans, etc. Those sites have great cables at 5-10% of HT's prices.

I didn't answer the question because I would never add to cables for the purpose of length.

All this being said, what I was getting at was that I couldn't understand paying hundreds of dollars for cables, adding to and adapting them, possibly degrading the signal, etc, when the solution is easily solved by getting the correct length all in one cable for a fraction of the cost.

I should have just posted the Monoprice link and left it at that. Sorry, I was trying to save you money. :o

cavu

08-01-06, 03:25 PM

I am curious as to how come you spend a fortune [...] and then still ended up buying a modestly prices PJ such as the 4805??

Not to diss my beloved 4805, but if money is no object, then I am sure there are much better choices out there.This issue has come up in discussions about my theatre with some professional associates. When I add it up, I realize I have spent over $26,000! But look where the money went: $10,000+ on acoustically isolated theatre ** $6,000+ on speakers $4,000+ on auxillary gear (DVR, DVI Switcher, DVD & CD players, AVR, amps, rack, remotes, etc.) $3,000+ on seating $2,500 on the 92" screen $500 on (all) cables $499 InFocus SP4805 (Black Friday) $199 3-year lamp warranty $50 projector mount
I admit I spent $1,300 on my first SP4805 (which is now doing duty in our kitchen) and over $2,200 for my IN76 (which I subsequently sold) but the point is that my projector is just about the cheapest part of my entire HT experience, less than 2% of the total!! but I LOVE IT!!!!

The SP4805 more than holds its own in the entire scheme of things and I doubt very much that I will replace it until the right 1080p comes along.

** "Room within a room" hung on resilient hangars, dual double-layer offset sheet rock walls (1-ft thick), lead-lined entrance door with guillotine and gaskets, remote-controlled mulitzone lighting, rear-row platform w/shakers, dedicated electrical and preinstalled wiring channels.

Hughman

08-01-06, 03:28 PM

Thanks Hugh. That's exactly what I was asking about. I too noticed a slight change when going from 2 meters to 6, but if I most likely won't notice much difference from adding a few more feet it would be very cool.

I was a little surprised the added connectors did not create worse ringing than the original termination, perhaps the 3 foot length was too short and close to the orig to show it's signature separate from the orig.

Since there was some ringing with the original cable set I did eventually end up making a new set of proper length cables terminated with 75ohm bnc's at the projector which did eliminate the noted ringing.

spyder696969

08-01-06, 03:38 PM

$199 3-year lamp warranty

** "Room within a room" hung on resilient hangars, dual double-layer offset sheet rock walls (1-ft thick), lead-lined entrance door with guillotine and gaskets, remote-controlled mulitzone lighting, rear-row platform w/shakers, dedicated electrical and preinstalled wiring channels.

Sounds very cool, cavu! :cool:

Now where the hell are the pics of this sweet HT? How many times am I gonna have to ask you to please, please, please post some of that kitchen setup too? :p

It's the least you can do, after I alerted you to the 3-year bulb warantee! ;)

Lastly, I forgot...why did you get rid of your 76 again?

Cataphract

08-01-06, 03:56 PM

$2,500 on the 92" screen......and over $2,200 for my IN76 (which I subsequently sold)

What kind of screen is that Cavu for $ 2500? Gain, surface etc.

Any particular reason why you got rid of the IN 76? Was it a performance issue?

I have read your posts about the trouble you went through with Infocus, but I think that was related to the 4805, wasn't it? I hope that was not the reason for you dumping the IN 76.

Well, In the end I agree that 4805 is hard to beat, but I thought may be a 7210 would be even better or IN 76 for that matter (haven't see either of them, but just based on how good the 4805 is, I thought the upgrade model would be better) and I know I would go for it if I had the money.

I wandered around in the 3500+ forums for a few days and they cant stop talking about their 15 K Sony Ruby's and Runco's and all that and so I thought we buy this PJ for the price point, the performance is awesome and that is just a bonus.

Martin Butler

08-01-06, 04:03 PM

JaPhule, good to hear from you. I went to monoprice but only found a 2 meter cable and didn't see a "premium" version. Can you send a link to wherever they have longer length premium cable available? Thanks.
This is getting off topic, so I'll try to make this my last post regarding the component cables. There's no finish to cable debates. It's a fact that there's more to digital transmission than zero's and one's. The timing of their delivery can create anomalies (jitter) affecting sound/video quality. I have a friend who happens to receive many brands of cables for reviewing. I was in the unusual position of being able to borrow at least 5 different brands to audition. To my eyes, the Harmonic Technology cables looked better (less hash, hence clearer blacks and more solid colors without bleeding) They were in the same general price range as Monster, so I bought em'. It's that simple. If I was able to compare the Monoprice brand to the Harmonic Tech cables, I'd buy the one that looked better. If they looked the same, of course I'd get the less expensive ones.
Guys, I have 30 years recording experience and am aware that it's always better to avoid any addition to a signal path. I was just trying to get a feel for how noticeable adding a few feet might be, whew!

Cataphract

08-01-06, 04:09 PM

Martin Butler

08-01-06, 04:12 PM

Thanks for the link Cataphract. Don't know how Monoprice does it, but they're amazing. Anyone ever had a chance to compare Monoprice component cables to any other brands on their 4805? Ja Phule?

Devedander

08-01-06, 04:28 PM

I was just trying to get a feel for how noticeable adding a few feet might be, whew!

It wasn't a few feet or a lot of feet so much that was the issue... it was using an extender at all...

And you do have the option to test monoprice against HT... just buy a set of monoprice cables... they will cost less than the tax on a set of HT cables and at worst you are out $20-50 and know for sure... not a big deal when you are looking at cables that cost many hundreds I would think...

jwv651

08-01-06, 05:01 PM

Anyone ever had a chance to compare Monoprice component cables to any other brands on their 4805? Ja Phule?I have used BlueJean cables 35' $140 and Monoprice Premium 35' $35 and honestly could not see any difference whatsoever...I use neither now as I switched to the Monoprice 2 way HDMI switcher. :)

tradewinds

08-01-06, 05:29 PM

honestly could not see any difference whatsoever...

I would agree. I think the Monoprice ones are of exceptional quality and value. Congrats if you can see a justifiable difference when getting higher price cables.

Martin Butler

08-01-06, 06:30 PM

Ja Phule

08-01-06, 09:09 PM

I've never really been able to notice differences between component cables in picture quality. Never had a good idea of what to look for. I've been using 12' acoustic research cables and they've worked well. I'm getting the 35' premium component from monoprice now that I've moved, and I'll see if I can notice any differences.

cavu

08-01-06, 11:45 PM

Now where the hell are the pics of this sweet HT?Alright. Alright!! Since my stroke, the finishing of the rooms has stalled and my memory and energy levels are almost non-existent.

I'm on disability and can't afford to have the contractors come in and finish at the moment.

The kitchen is still open 2x4s while the new cabinets are being built.

In the theatre, I don't have the cover plates on any electrical boxes and haven't even finished wiring others. I yet have to complete the bulkhead panels for all the audio/video wiring. I haven't remounted the Stewart screen since the interior walls were completed and painted because the contractor screwed up and the door frame collides with the screen frame - I have to have one or the other trimmed. (I am temporarily using a 4x8 sheet of foam core as a screen.)

But I will dig out the camera and shoot some details for you.It's the least you can do, after I alerted you to the 3-year bulb warantee!That may be true but my stroke-induced memory problems prevent me from giving you credit!! (again) ;) I expected to get at least three bulbs out of that $199 warranty but I think I'm a little past 4,000 hours on the first bulb in almost 14-months and its still going strong !! Damn. ;)why did you get rid of your 76 again?OK. You asked - I didn't initiate this!

I love their technology and admire Bob Williams very much but I will not buy another InFocus product.

In summary: I got "involved" by suggesting to a young dealership that they offer an AVS special on the IN7x series - which they did. The nightmare that ensued just about destroyed the dealership and cost me a valued friendship. Note: AVS was not at fault or in any way involved in the problems!!

THESE ARE MY PERSONAL COMMENTS AND AVS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE IN ANY WAY FOR THEM. IF SOMEONE WISHES TO TAKE ISSUE WITH ME - PM ME YOUR PHONE NUMBER. INFOCUS? PLEASE? MODERATOR: IF YOU FEEL YOU MUST CENSOR THIS CONTENT, PLEASE REMOVE ONLY THE MASKED SECTION - THE REST OF MY MESSAGE CAN NOT BE CONSIDERED CONTENTIOUS IN ANY MANNER WHATSOEVER.

InFocus's business tactics stink: their marketing department is incompetent and dishonest. Their so-called legal department is unprofessional and the overall company operations do not meet the ethical standards expected of a publicy-traded company (to quote a major DC law firm). They attempt to intimidate and bully dealers with policies which are neither published nor distributed. They deny and revoke agreements and assurances previously made both in writing and in person. They are trying to enforce an agreement supposedly published on the web but which has produced the same error since March (http://www.infocus.com/dealerReg/agreement.asp?sessionID=304332912) and which they refuse to provide in hard copy.

Since this fiasco, no-one at InFocus has had the courtesy to respond in any fashion to formal and informal requests, phone calls and open-letters.

I did try the IN76 while I had it and it is a very nice projector; but it didn't blow me away with sufficient improved performance over the 4805 for my DVD and HDTV diet to sway me from my consciencious objection to buying another InFocus product.

The D1:4805 1:1 pixel-mapped synergy won out and I didn't feel like I lost anything when I blew it off for what I paid under the AVS deal.

I will wait for a Yamaha (or somesuch) 1080p without much suffering though. Anyone who visits and experiences my theatre is struck dumb with envy.

tradewinds

08-02-06, 12:02 AM

I didn't I love their technology and admire Bob Williams very much but I will not buy another InFocus product.
.

oh man, this isn't looking good. Let us know what 1080p you end up with. I think I'll get another 4805 for now in my new place.

cavu

08-02-06, 12:30 AM

What kind of screen is that Cavu for $ 2500? Gain, surface etc.Stewart Firehawk 1.35 gray (they have a new G2 at 1.25 gain).

My theory is that I will change the projector many times in the life of my theatre but will never change the screen and, hence, put my investment there. My physical design limits me to a 92" screen.

With the high brightness of the InFocus, if I had to do it again, I might rethink it and go with a lower gain screen - perhaps 0.8-0.95

spyder696969

08-02-06, 02:13 AM

Devedander

08-02-06, 02:22 AM

Thanks guys, much appreciated. It seems that I should probably try the Monoprice cables. I can compare them to my Harmonic Tech cables before installing permanently and if they look as good I'll be thrilled. If not, well I can try returning them to Monoprice or resell them for a few bucks less.

I think that's a very wise move, and even if you don't like the monoprice cables, they are so cheap it would hardly be worth your while to bother reselling them, put them in a bottom drawer as emergency cables or something. That's the beauty of this option, it has very little cost (price of cables) and very large potential return (savings in the hundreds of dollars).

To be fair to yourself (as anyone might subconciously not want to invalidate their expensive purchase) you might want to consider some kind of switcher (or just manually switch cables) and double blind testing. Leave the room, have a friend switch (or not) and come back in a dozen or so times. See if you can really tell the difference over multiple occurances when you have no way of suconciously skewing your feelings...

Consideirng you seem to be interested in recouping your investment if it doesn't work out (even for an arguably small amount of $$$) I would think $$$ matter to you, so I would be interested if a: you can tell any difference at all and b: if there is a difference if you feel it's worth several hundreds of dollars.

As someone who used to get employee discount on Monster brand stuff (which makes it a decent price actually) I used to have all Monster everything. It has since almost all been switched out in favor of good quality generic stuff when I had to redo the layouts. I don't have golden ears or have a reference quality studio but I NEVER could detect any actual performance loss.

Martin Butler

08-02-06, 01:40 PM

I'll be away for a few days, but I'll get back to everyone after I try the Monoprice cables.

spyder696969

08-02-06, 01:47 PM

...As someone who used to get employee discount on Monster brand stuff (which makes it a decent price actually)...

I had no idea Monster gave 85% off to employees. ;)

Cataphract

08-02-06, 02:08 PM

cavu,

I think I respect you even more after that story. Most people would be ripping any IF product apart at every chance, given your experience. Yet you rave on and on and on about the 4805 (and rightfully so). It just proves you are a man of honesty, intregrity, and unbiased opinion. :cool:

In fact, you were one of a few that convinced me to get the 4805...though I'm not going to techincally give you credit for it, since you gave me none for the bulb warantee. ;)

Honestly, I'd be happy with just the kitchen 4805 pictures. I couldn't care less about open frames or exposed wires, etc. That's how many homes are being built these days by design.

Well said Spyder, I second that.

Cavu - I read about your posts about the back and forth with IF and how they kept your PJ for more than a few months and kept giving you excuses everytime you tried to check on the status.

Given all that history and the issue with the AVS special that you mentioned, it is remarkable that you have still kept your composure and treat each issue objectively and give credit where its due.

Your observations and experience with the IN 76 are interesting to say the least, and I know it will make me think twice when it is time for an upgrade as I would not spend 3x then what I did on the 4805 if I cannot expect a significant improvement in performance.

May be time to get a 4805 lamp and ES warranty :confused:

Luis Gabriel Gerena

08-02-06, 11:53 PM

Atwater27

08-03-06, 11:57 AM

I recently bought a Toshiba SD K860 from costco and hooked it up to my 4805 and when there is a nigt or black scenes on the color is distorted. The rest of the picture looks ok. I then hook it up via component cable and its fine. This is the second player I have tried with the same results. The other issue I have is that I run composite audio to another set of speakers in the game room and the receiver start to hum. This only happens when I have the hdmi cable hooked up.

Thanks
Craig

cavu

08-03-06, 12:23 PM

I run composite audio to another set of speakers in the game room and the receiver start to hum.Google "ground loop" (http://www.google.ca/search?q=%22ground+loop%22&sourceid=mozilla-search&start=0&start=0).

Atwater27

08-03-06, 12:35 PM

Thanks for the suggestion on the audio problem. I had ground loop issues with the projector and solved them with a 2 prong ac adapter. Any ideas on the picture issues? Thanks for the quick response I will look at it when I get home.

Thanks
Craig

spyder696969

08-03-06, 01:47 PM

I had ground loop issues with the projector and solved them with a 2 prong ac adapter.

Oh, my! :eek:

adude

08-03-06, 02:30 PM

Hi guys...!
I just wanted to say that I am back and happy to see the 4805 thread still going strong. I am trying to read it all especially looking for info on hd-dvd and the 4805. BTW, for all the HTPC users out there I recommend you check this :
h/tp://forum.doom9.org/showthread.php?t=104701
Its an awesome sharpening script for avisynth that blew me away! My 4805 has never looked better and for people that remember me and has seen some of my pics, I tell you, now it looks even better!
Well, its good to be back and hope to share posts with all of you more often.
Regards

PS If you want to try the sharpener I can post my mini script...it will help if you have dual core processor.

Luis,

Can you post that script? I can sure use it.

Just looking at your signature. You seem to have 120" screen. What kind of screen are you using? I am planning to build a new screen but not sure whether 4805 will keep up its light output for more than 100" and avoid SDE. Any info will be great.

Luis Gabriel Gerena

08-03-06, 04:53 PM

This is my script which is basically the same posted in that thread:

MT("a = last

b=a.degrainmedian(mode=2)
MT("SeeSaw(a,b, NRlimit=6, NRlimit2=7, Sstr=1.5, Slimit=5, Spower=5, Sdamplo=6, Szp=16)
colomatrix()")

You need the MT mod (for dual core), the degrainmedian plug in, colomatrix.dll if you want to, and maybe some other stuff that I cant recall (working now) but the thread normally lists everything you need. Without the dual core patch its too hard on the CPU at least in my case cause I am using the ffdshow lancoz resize 3x. You may need to use a little bit of luma sharp when resizing depending on your likings but I tell you, this thing is amazing. You really bring out detail without the usual ringing or outline artifacts.
Regards

PS The screen is just blackout cloth...works great!

tradewinds

08-04-06, 10:53 AM

Is $900 a good price for a NEW (not Referb) 4805 or is it better to get a referb for about $150 less?

I guess the question would be that maybe there is a new IN72 for about $900 or will be soon and maybe getting that is better than a new 4805, but which would you choose?

spyder696969

08-04-06, 11:05 AM

There have been deals on the IN72 for less than $900 already. Black Friday will also be here before you know it. I'd wait.

tradewinds

08-04-06, 11:34 AM

Spyder, From what I seem to read the 4805 may be better than the IN72 because of some glitches on the IN72. What are your thoughts?

spyder696969

08-04-06, 12:31 PM

My biggest worry is the deluge of light engine problems that keep popping up on the 4805. The 72 supposedly has a better design in that regard (along with some other perks), so I'll likely do a BF deal and sell my 4805 after that. I can live with the fact that the 72 can't do 72Hz, compared to having an ever-growing brown blob invading the side(s) of my image.

Don't get me wrong, I love, love, love my 4805, but the LE problem makes me very nervous because of the frequency of occurances recently and cost involved (more than PJ itself). Who knows what sort of deals BF will bring? Hell, there might be a good 720p out there for <$700 by then.

tradewinds

08-04-06, 01:06 PM

I'll most likely be moving beginning of Dec and would need the PJ by then so BF will be happening just about the right time. I'll wait and see, who knows, could the IN76 actually be <$700 by then....OMG....what are the chances.

Right now it looks more that the Optoma HD72 could get close to that by BF and in all respects and reviews I have read it looks like it is conclusively better than the IN76 and gives better warranty.

cavu

08-04-06, 04:07 PM

Is $900 a good price for a NEW (not Referb) 4805No.

RUN - do not walk - to the manufacturer's site (http://store.infocus.com/escalate/store/DetailPage?pls=infocus&bc=infocus&pc=SP-4805&tab=desc&ipos=true&clist=017080322b5b:017080322b5f&ret=Projectors-Business&pls5catname=Projectors-Business)! :cool:

tradewinds

08-04-06, 04:18 PM

Cavu, with the current promotions ($300 rebate) going around, a NEW IN72 is about $700 ($100 less than the manufacture price for a NEW 4805). However, I think you are recommending the 4805 over the IN72?

Damn, this whole thing is getting too confusing. Since I do not need it till beginning of Dec., I think I will not regret waiting even though rebate expires 08/31/2006. 3-year lamp warranty is $103.00.

Bobby_K

08-04-06, 04:30 PM

when is BF anyway? Am I allowed to ask that? I missed it last year and payed $1000 for my 4805.

tradewinds

08-04-06, 04:47 PM

BF is the day after Thanksgiving. The definition given by About.com:
"Definition: What is Black Friday?
The day after Thanksgiving in the United States, is frequently referred to as Black Friday.

General Use: One of the major U.S. holiday shopping days. The day many U.S. consumers begin Christmas shopping. The day is heavily promoted by retailers.

Origin: The origin of Black Friday comes from the shift to profitability during the holiday season. Black Friday was when retailers went from being unprofitable, or "in the red," to being profitable, or "in the black", at a time when accounting records were kept by hand and red indicated loss and black profit.
Also Known As: The day after Thanksgiving"

cavu

08-04-06, 06:03 PM

I think you are recommending the 4805 over the IN72?No, not necessarily. At the price you suggest, I would probably take the IN72.3-year lamp warranty is $103.00.Where did you see that? InFocus doesn't offer the ELW-3 warranty anymore, although they promised to honour it if purchased from a dealer's inventory.

tradewinds

08-04-06, 06:34 PM

Devedander

08-04-06, 07:17 PM

It does not appear to be a Infocus lamp warranty but a Repair Master. I have PM you the link.

Repair Master also offer:
3-Year In-Home Television Warranty Service Plan
5-Year In-Home Television Warranty Service Plan

You might want to check in with Repair Master, as most warranties that dont specifically say "bulb warranty" don't cover the bulb. The fact that it says Television Warranty makes me think twice about it right there.

tradewinds

08-04-06, 07:48 PM

Yes, it says Lamp Warranty:
REPAIR MASTER RMLMP3 3-Year Lamp Protection Warranty Service Plan

"Furnishes a replacement LAMP for LCD, LCoS, D-ILA or DLP TVs or Projectors / 3 year lamp protection coverage from Date of Purchase
# Provides protection for your LCD, LCoS, D-ILA or DLP LAMP starting immediately from date of purchase
# Plan will furnish a replacement lamp (Up to two [2] replacement lamps during the term of this plan) that has failed and would normally be covered by the original manufacturer's written Warranty (Normal manufacturer's warranty on this Component is usually limited to 90 days to 120 days)
# Convenient Toll-free 800 number open 24/7
# Service Network with over 12,000 service centers nationwide
# No deductibles or hidden charges
# Fully transferrable in the event you sell or transfer your product to a new owner during the coverage period
# Convenient phone, mail or Internet registration
# This plan will ONLY cover replacement the LAMP, other charges, including labor (LAMP removal and installation), trip, shipping, or repair of the Television or Projector are NOT covered
# Accidental damage or damage due to neglect is NOT covered
# Damage to the LAMP caused by the LCD, LCoS, D-ILA or DLP product is NOT covered
# This plan MUST be purchased at the SAME TIME and on the SAME SALES RECEIPT as the covered LCD, LCoS, D-ILA or DLP product
# YOU MUST REGISTER THIS PLAN WITHIN 10 DAYS OF PURCHASE"

They also offer the other two television warranties. I am just not sure if I can post a link directly to the description on this site.

mijoeldotor

08-04-06, 10:15 PM

mijoeldotor

08-04-06, 10:20 PM

Hi guys...!
I just wanted to say that I am back and happy to see the 4805 thread still going strong. I am trying to read it all especially looking for info on hd-dvd and the 4805. BTW, for all the HTPC users out there I recommend you check this :
h/tp://forum.doom9.org/showthread.php?t=104701
Its an awesome sharpening script for avisynth that blew me away! My 4805 has never looked better and for people that remember me and has seen some of my pics, I tell you, now it looks even better!
Well, its good to be back and hope to share posts with all of you more often.
Regards

PS If you want to try the sharpener I can post my mini script...it will help if you have dual core processor.

welcome back, Luis. I was out too... I send you a PM, having no answer...
aguante Boquita....ahora sin Basile!!

utopia1956

08-04-06, 10:31 PM

I have my HT equipment (dvd, receiver, etc) 40' from my 4805. I have a cheap dvd (Pioneer DV 363) conected via component cable . I´m sending interlaced signal because I do not like the progressive signal of the dvd (artifacts).
Now, I would like to improve the image quality and think buying an Oppo, in order to use a dvi conection. The problem is the distance: 40 feet.
I´ve read it is to long for a dvi cable, and it must pass through the ceiling, I have there AC wires. So I must forget about it...or not?
Which dvd player is the best doing the progressive work in order to use the component cable I already have?
Thank you.
I am using a 50 foot M1/DVI monoprice cable to my Bravo D1 without problems. Only thing is, the connectors on the cable are large and require a large opening if you route through the ceiling.

Alex solomon

08-04-06, 10:44 PM

I have my HT equipment (dvd, receiver, etc) 40' from my 4805. I have a cheap dvd (Pioneer DV 363) conected via component cable . I´m sending interlaced signal because I do not like the progressive signal of the dvd (artifacts).
Now, I would like to improve the image quality and think buying an Oppo, in order to use a dvi conection. The problem is the distance: 40 feet.
I´ve read it is to long for a dvi cable, and it must pass through the ceiling, I have there AC wires. So I must forget about it...or not?
Which dvd player is the best doing the progressive work in order to use the component cable I already have?
Thank you.

You should be fine with 40 ft DVI cable. If you want the best picture possible I would say buy a DVI to M1 cable and a Bravo D1. But the Bravo requires some minor mod to work properly and reliability. Second best is the Oppo again through DVI. If you use DVI do not forget to change RGB offset and gain # to bob's magic numbers. If decide to use the component cable you have now, I say a Toshiba 3960 if you can find one and send 480i signal to the 4805 and let the 4805 do the scaling.

sas_aaron

08-05-06, 02:32 PM

Weird Video Feed from Component Cables
Normally when i switch on my DVDPlayer using component cables, the Projector will show that the signal recieved is 480i.

But recently, the signal recieved is "720x480 - 59Hz" , what do it mean? will it still utilise the faroudja progressive scan on the video feed?

The only way to solve it is to "off and on" the DVD player again, then it finally detects 480i. what should i do?:confused:

Ja Phule

08-05-06, 03:36 PM

sgibson

08-05-06, 07:08 PM

spyder696969

08-05-06, 08:56 PM

It's happened to me a couple of times, but not often. Try setting the "sync threshold" to zero (works for me, but maybe a different number for you) and see if that helps to find the image. Hopefully, you won't get someone castigating you to turn the "beep" setting on, because I'm 99% certain that's not what you meant...you were talking about at initial startup, it sometimes does make the sound and other times not, correct?

sgibson

08-05-06, 09:00 PM

I agreed to a refurbed SP4805 when Infocus didn't fix my "too pink" image problem. But now I have a no beep, no lamp problem when i turn the projector on. If I shut it down and wait a bit, turn it on and it starts okay. Also, seems to have a delay in finding source. I was so frustrated with my last exprience with InFocus support/factory repair...I hate to even think about sending another one back.
Any advice on the "no beep" issue?

TIA,
sgibson

(I'll probably upgrade to a 720p next year.)

Found a post by spyder696969:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7423454&highlight=no+beep#post7423454
Sometimes, but not very often, when I hard power on I get the high fan, then low, then there's no "beep" and I don't get a picture at all. I shut it off and will always get the beeping on the second try. Is this normal? Why does this happen sometimes?

spyder696969, that's my exact problem. Did you get yours fixed? Any advice?

TIA,
sgibson

spyder696969

08-05-06, 09:20 PM

It hasn't happened in a long time since I set the sync threshold to zero (see post above your last one).

seedlings

08-05-06, 09:31 PM

All, Not on topic, but:

Does anyone know how to obtain the phisical bulb for an X1? Not the $300 lamp + housing enclosure, just the halogen bulb itself? On the back of the ceramic base, where the 2 leads enter the base, is printed:

SHP41
Hg

I've been looking. My bulb broke. Not burned out or shattered, just broke. The heavier gague lead (from the base of the bulb to the tip) is open. It looks like a 1/8" section of it just disappeared (burned up I suppose).

Surely there is a supplier where I could buy the bulb itself for $50 - $75. I've been looking on dons bulbs site, but can't find this specific bulb.

AVS is great and so many of you are quite savvy about this research stuff. I'll keep searching.

Thanks in advance,
CHAD

sgibson

08-06-06, 04:49 PM

It hasn't happened in a long time since I set the sync threshold to zero (see post above your last one).

Hey spyder696969!

I'll give it a try. Thanks for the tip.

Regards,
sgibson

transdog

08-07-06, 01:58 AM

Disaster struck, I had a water leak in the ceiling and of course the only way out for the deluge was through the 4805 that I've grown to love.
I left it in the sun for two weeks and started it up when I was satisfied that it was properly dry. It worked to my great relief. But later when I had remounted it and was playing a dvd there was a pattern of large dots on the screen when it was on a dark scene. The pattern seems to be symetrical so I am supposing that there is a water stain or mark on a bit of the optics somewhere. I cleaned the colour wheel and the filters when I had it down. Does anyone have an idea of what this might be and is there a remedy, any advce would be most welcome.
Regards Gary
(Currently on a rig in the Timor Sea)

Devedander

08-07-06, 03:03 AM

Not dust blobs? A picture might help...

DeerHunter

08-07-06, 11:39 AM

Devedander

08-07-06, 12:00 PM

My guess would be that since water had made its way into the unit, that any water/moisture/condensation has evaporated and left some sort of residue on the DMD, be it dust or water marks. If it's still under warranty send it in and have them due a thorough cleaning!!!

Gonna be interesting story to explain without voiding warranty... pretty sure flood damage is not covered :p

DeerHunter

08-07-06, 12:17 PM

Gonna be interesting story to explain without voiding warranty... pretty sure flood damage is not covered :p

They don't need to know about the ARK!!! ;) Just that there's a problem.

transdog

08-07-06, 05:56 PM

Unfortuneately, I dont think I can pursue the warranty path , I'll try the dust blob cleaning routine when I get home.
Thanks anyway,
regards Gary

sv2006

08-07-06, 09:43 PM

mijoeldotor

08-07-06, 10:40 PM

You should be fine with 40 ft DVI cable. If you want the best picture possible I would say buy a DVI to M1 cable and a Bravo D1. But the Bravo requires some minor mod to work properly and reliability. Second best is the Oppo again through DVI. If you use DVI do not forget to change RGB offset and gain # to bob's magic numbers. If decide to use the component cable you have now, I say a Toshiba 3960 if you can find one and send 480i signal to the 4805 and let the 4805 do the scaling.
I decided to e-mail Oppo Customer Service because of the cable length. They told me: 'We generally do not recommend using a cable length larger than 30' with our DVD products, as lines longer than this connection can cause sparkling errors as well as other data loss issues.´'
You are telling me the Bravo works with this length...so it´s casual or depends on the machine?.
By the way...Where can I find a Bravo D1? I must order it via internet.

Ja Phule

08-07-06, 10:42 PM

:D I can no longer see the "blue screen", once i switch the power, i hear a fan runnign noise, a beep and see a light coming, then it shutdowns, as if going into a powersave mode. Can anyone of help me, what do i need to do.

I haven't used the infocus for a couple of months. Does that has anything to do to come up. ?

Need help ASAP. Thx SV

Do you see any blinking from the 4805 other than a solid green? If so it usually means something. Check the manual.

Tonebaz

08-07-06, 11:27 PM

Is there a projector that has all the 4805 specs (DLP, DVI, low price, etc.), but with more lumens and similar in price??

Ja Phule

08-08-06, 12:01 AM

Is there a projector that has all the 4805 specs (DLP, DVI, low price, etc.), but with more lumens and similar in price??

Maybe something like the Infocus Big Play IN72 that replaced the 4805?

Tonebaz

08-08-06, 12:18 AM

Looks like that only has a few hundred more lumens. Not worth it to me. Im looking for something I can watch in the daytime. Any suggestions?

Devedander

08-08-06, 01:32 AM

Check your other post on the subject and while most of us find projectors "watchable" in the daytime, if you want something that pops and has good contrast even in bright light I think you are limited to plasma/lcds for the most part...

spyder696969

08-08-06, 01:35 AM

Looks like that only has a few hundred more lumens. Not worth it to me. Im looking for something I can watch in the daytime. Any suggestions?

Curtains. :D Then you can watch whatever you want. I watch diring the day with lights on all the time.

Note: Do not be fooled by other PJs claims of 20 trillion:1 contrast ratio and 40 billion lumens. The 4805 is one of very few that doesn't inflate their specs in a vague marketing ploy.

vootkur

08-08-06, 08:44 AM

:D I can no longer see the "blue screen", once i switch the power, i hear a fan runnign noise, a beep and see a light coming, then it shutdowns, as if going into a powersave mode. Can anyone of help me, what do i need to do.

I have a very similar problem (reported in an earlier post). Basically, it takes the my PJ a lot longer to warm up then it used to, and the fan speed/sound is quite variable. Sometimes I will get a full bright picture, other times it will be quite dim, and sometimes it will start up for about 45 seconds then shut down and give me blinking red lights like the bulb is bad.

I turned off the sync threshold and the problem has not recurred in 2 days. But, that is no guarantee. I think I might have a problem with my power supply.

I think you may need a new bulb. Look at the amount of times the red light blinks, then compare with what the "code" is in your manual. I think 3 times means bad bulb.

sv2006

08-08-06, 04:09 PM

I have a very similar problem (reported in an earlier post). Basically, it takes the my PJ a lot longer to warm up then it used to, and the fan speed/sound is quite variable. Sometimes I will get a full bright picture, other times it will be quite dim, and sometimes it will start up for about 45 seconds then shut down and give me blinking red lights like the bulb is bad.

I turned off the sync threshold and the problem has not recurred in 2 days. But, that is no guarantee. I think I might have a problem with my power supply.

I think you may need a new bulb. Look at the amount of times the red light blinks, then compare with what the "code" is in your manual. I think 3 times means bad bulb.

Mine was brand new, used less than 100 hrs. The "solid green" is always on.
Question: How do i turn off the "Sync Threshold" ? SV

spyder696969

08-08-06, 06:18 PM

Question: How do i turn off the "Sync Threshold" ? SV

With the remote:
Menu --> Picture --> Advanced --> Sync Threshold is at the bottom...set it to "0" (zero).

deadman

08-08-06, 06:31 PM

cavu

08-08-06, 06:36 PM

today i noticed a funny yellowing in the upper left hand corner of the projected image in 16x9 mode."Light Tube"! :(

Search this thread for that term.

deadman

08-08-06, 08:18 PM

"Light Tube"! :(

Search this thread for that term.

Hey Cavu I appreciate your response, and thanks for the BravoD1 help too lol That is a real bummer about the light tube... I guess I just keep using it till it totally corrupts eh? What is the current best cash/performance upgrade from the 4805 these days? I'd better start planning now.

With the cheapo color wheel scam and this light tube screwup I'll probably never buy a infocus product again. Is there any other projectors at or above 4805 quality that is in the sub $2000 price range??

spyder696969

08-08-06, 08:46 PM

Yet another one bites the dust. I'm starting to get really nervous with all these light engines dying off. :(

zaphod7501

08-08-06, 09:50 PM

My unit still has a year on warranty so I'm not going to tear it apart if it fails (no problems so far) but after 30+ years servicing TVs, VCRs, and Camcorders, I can't imagine not being able to reconstruct a light tube, possibly out of another material. (anyone nearby have a bad one they'd like to have me experiment on?)

Luis Gabriel Gerena

08-09-06, 12:46 AM

Just tried my 4805 with a Comcast MOtorola dtc-6200 and it looks great thru DVI. This little pj is still able to impress me.

deadman

08-09-06, 06:36 AM

I actually don't want another projector, this 4805 is just fine for me. If I want to stay with about the same standard as this what are my options? Is it worth going for another refurbed 4805 with a warranty? Or is there something out there that would work better for DVD's and subhighdef tv? Let me know what you think...'
One thing about upgrading to a newer IF is that i have a bulb with only 998 hours on it, not to mention a ceiling mount from my x1 if I decide to use it... tough descision.
By the way this particular 4805 has never been mounted in has always been right side up in a custom box, so it's not mounting issues causing the tube problems it's just craptactular production quality. I treated my PJ like a newborn.

deadman

zaphod7501

08-09-06, 09:59 AM

it's just craptactular production quality.
It is most likely that Texas Instruments supplies the light engine as a unit. That is why InFocus doesn't replace light tubes or color wheels (even for warranty repairs unless T.I. is actually fixing the warranty ones for them) because American Companies (like T.I.) would write license agreements forbidding it.

If these were foreign companies the following conversation would take place:
InFocus: You have embarassed us with your high failure rate, we are disgraced.
T.I. : You are right, we will perform Sepuku to attone. No, wait, that would help neither of us; we will provide the next units at a significant discount and neither of us will discuss it further.
InFocus: That is acceptible. Done.

Cataphract

08-09-06, 11:55 AM

Yet another one bites the dust. I'm starting to get really nervous with all these light engines dying off. :(

I agree. Its no longer IF it will happen, but only When will it happen. :(

I have about 600 hrs and I know this is bound to happen and there is no way to fix it if you are out of warranty, does anyone know if Infocus will sell an Extended Warranty if you buy it before your current warranty expires?

Btw, I hate that they have reduced the warranty to 1 yr on the new IN line, I don't care if they increased the bulb from 3 to 6 mos, 1 yr warranty for a PJ just doesn't cut it IMHO.

I bought a 1 yr EW as I had a refurb unit and they had a special deal for Woot customers, it even covers the lamp. However, I don't know if it is worth investing in an additional 1 or 2 yr EW, I think the 2 yr is $ 249 on their site.

May be any other forum sponsors sell EW for the 4805 that is worth getting?

spyder696969

08-09-06, 12:53 PM

[QUOTE=zaphod7501]...we will perform Sepuku to attone. QUOTE]

LOL. :D

somatic

08-09-06, 01:33 PM

cavu

08-09-06, 02:44 PM

Radeon 9600ProHave you 'calibrated' the contrast & brightness using Avia, DVE or THX Optimizer??

Assuming you are using DVI, you will find the default settings are VERY close or that they are not.

If they are close, that's it.

If they are not, then your card is outputting "video" levels as opposed to "PC" levels and the "Bob Williams Magic Numbers" should be used: on the SP4805, adjust the RGB Gains (3) to 58 and the RGB Offsets (3) to 28.5; the rest of the 4805 settings should be at default.

PS. Sorry! I missed where you said you had used DVE. I must have stopped reading before I got that far :o

Cataphract

08-09-06, 02:46 PM

daveyhatton

08-09-06, 03:37 PM

Hey Cavu I appreciate your response, and thanks for the BravoD1 help too lol That is a real bummer about the light tube... I guess I just keep using it till it totally corrupts eh? What is the current best cash/performance upgrade from the 4805 these days? I'd better start planning now.

With the cheapo color wheel scam and this light tube screwup I'll probably never buy a infocus product again. Is there any other projectors at or above 4805 quality that is in the sub $2000 price range??

I'm also experiencing the infamous light tube issue, along with occasional color wheel grinding. I actually posted a similar question here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=703892

daveyhatton

08-09-06, 03:40 PM

I agree. Its no longer IF it will happen, but only When will it happen. :(

I have about 600 hrs and I know this is bound to happen and there is no way to fix it if you are out of warranty, does anyone know if Infocus will sell an Extended Warranty if you buy it before your current warranty expires?

Btw, I hate that they have reduced the warranty to 1 yr on the new IN line, I don't care if they increased the bulb from 3 to 6 mos, 1 yr warranty for a PJ just doesn't cut it IMHO.

I bought a 1 yr EW as I had a refurb unit and they had a special deal for Woot customers, it even covers the lamp. However, I don't know if it is worth investing in an additional 1 or 2 yr EW, I think the 2 yr is $ 249 on their site.

May be any other forum sponsors sell EW for the 4805 that is worth getting?

That sucks to hear about the reduced warranty for the new IN series (hopefully they will be more reliable...), but to answer your question, yes, Infocus will sell you an extended warranty before you current warranty expires. I know this because I've recently submitted a repair request, and when they e-mailed me the approval/shipping info, they also brought up the various extended warranty options!
With that said, does anyone know if the color wheel and "light engine" replacements are more reliable (have they addressed the issues?)

aaranddeeman

08-09-06, 07:59 PM

does anyone know if Infocus will sell an Extended Warranty if you buy it before your current warranty expires?

I guess they do. At least their website says so. Check it out.

:p

somatic

08-09-06, 09:48 PM

Cavu and Cataphract,

Thank you for your respond. I use WinDVD output thru DVI so the output is "PC" level. And the projector is operated in low mode. I used DVE title 12 chapter 14 famous Grayscale Step to calibrate. At factory setting I can see everything inside the 3 dot (level 16 to 235 I think). If I reduce brightness to 48 it will crush the first black step on the greyscale. Same at the opposite end, increase contrast to 52 will crush the white. I have also verify with THX opimizer to make sure.

I tried to watch couple movies at 49 brightness but then the movie become dim on certain scene. So I back up to 50 brightness again. I don't know if my Graywolf screen is causing this because it has too much gain?

I will try to reduce the brightness of the Radeon tonight and see.

I return the IN72 to get this 4805 one and so far I like the 4805 much better.

Thanks,
Tom

bskousen

08-10-06, 05:56 PM

I have had my 4805 for a while, it was a refurbed replacement for my x1. I have 1000 hours on my bulb and today i noticed a funny yellowing in the upper left hand corner of the projected image in 16x9 mode. I haven't watched a dvd in a long while and have been using 4x3 for watching tv and the "stain" doesn't show. Does this sound like a bulb issue or a dust blob maybe? It's kinda freaking me out.... any answer would be appreciated!

thanks :eek:

Yeah, like somebody just replied above, the light tube is falling down on one side. This is a very common problem. I returned mine after only 100 hours and had it serviced under warranty. The problem is now fixed. Somebody said they are replacing the original light tube with a better one when this occurs. I think the newer manufactured ones use a better light tube.

bskousen

08-10-06, 06:01 PM

It is most likely that Texas Instruments supplies the light engine as a unit. That is why InFocus doesn't replace light tubes or color wheels (even for warranty repairs unless T.I. is actually fixing the warranty ones for them) because American Companies (like T.I.) would write license agreements forbidding it.

If these were foreign companies the following conversation would take place:
InFocus: You have embarassed us with your high failure rate, we are disgraced.
T.I. : You are right, we will perform Sepuku to attone. No, wait, that would help neither of us; we will provide the next units at a significant discount and neither of us will discuss it further.
InFocus: That is acceptible. Done.

Uh, yes they do replace the light tube under warranty (if I'm understanding you correctly). I don't know who told you otherwise. They replaced my light tube. It has nothing to do with the light engine. It's just a tube made with mirrors directing light from the lamp to the DLP chip.

bub

08-10-06, 06:33 PM

Quick, Bravo D1 DVD at NewEgg for cheap...

George -bub

zaphod7501

08-10-06, 09:44 PM

Uh, yes they do replace the light tube under warranty (if I'm understanding you correctly). I don't know who told you otherwise. They replaced my light tube. It has nothing to do with the light engine. It's just a tube made with mirrors directing light from the lamp to the DLP chip.From reading about people who had bad light tubes (out of warranty) and were given extraordinary repair estimates ($1000), it seemed that a light tube failure was being fixed by replacing the light engine, at least that is what a $1000 repair would indicate. If the engine was actually being repaired by the supplier (T.I.) then a light tube could be the only part replaced but they don't seem to be passing that method on for out of warranty jobs.

The Question would be: if they will replace the light tube alone (as you believe they did for you in warranty) why won't they do it for an out of warranty repair? My guess is that T.I. repairs the engines for InFocus under warranty but only supplies complete engines as repair parts to InFocus. This would account for the repair estimates for both color wheels and light tubes being in the $1000 range when the PJ is out of warranty.

speed32219

08-11-06, 09:15 AM

Quick, Bravo D1 DVD at NewEgg for cheap...

George -bub

Thx a bunch. Just ordered one.

speed32219

08-11-06, 10:18 AM

Yeah, like somebody just replied above, the light tube is falling down on one side. This is a very common problem. I returned mine after only 100 hours and had it serviced under warranty. The problem is now fixed. Somebody said they are replacing the original light tube with a better one when this occurs. I think the newer manufactured ones use a better light tube.

It seems that the light tube and the DVI/M1 port on the 4805 are the week links as far as failures go.

As far as the light tube failures, it would be interesting to know how the PJ is mounted, room temp where the PJ is, etc. Or for the DVI-D/M1 problems if it failed while you were connecting/changing cable inputs while power was on the devices when connecting cables.

Kinda like a knowledge base of failures to see if there is a common element to the failures. i.e.. restricted airflows, 2 in ceiling mount or unit stuck in a sound deadening box (as someone posted) or table mounted with items close to or against the air intake area.

It could be just a cheepo light tube and probably is but some failures might be human error and could possibly be eliminated if we found a pattern to inform current and future users.

Of course if you want to upgrade if it costs so much to fix the unit, my bet would be an IN72 with the new sealed optics with the same great image as the 4805.

Just some thoughts.

daveyhatton

08-11-06, 10:59 AM

It seems that the light tube and the DVI/M1 port on the 4805 are the week links as far as failures go.

As far as the light tube failures, it would be interesting to know how the PJ is mounted, room temp where the PJ is, etc. Or for the DVI-D/M1 problems if it failed while you were connecting/changing cable inputs while power was on the devices when connecting cables.

Kinda like a knowledge base of failures to see if there is a common element to the failures. i.e.. restricted airflows, 2 in ceiling mount or unit stuck in a sound deadening box (as someone posted) or table mounted with items close to or against the air intake area.

It could be just a cheepo light tube and probably is but some failures might be human error and could possibly be eliminated if we found a pattern to inform current and future users.

Of course if you want to upgrade if it costs so much to fix the unit, my bet would be an IN72 with the new sealed optics with the same great image as the 4805.

Just some thoughts.

I actually posed this question a while back. I was thinking maybe the light tube issues had something to do with ceiling mounts, where gravity is always pulling the little sucker away from it's "mount" instead of against?

Cataphract

08-11-06, 11:08 AM

Devedander

08-11-06, 11:42 AM

Hello all,

I got my brand new 4805 couple weeks ago at CC. Thanks to all the great info here I was able to achieve the "WOW" effect with 96" image on a 106" Graywolf with a Radeon 9600Pro at 848x480. The projector is used in tabletop mode. At minimum zoom (no zoom) the image was limit to 96" due to my room length. If I zoom up the image get bigger and touch my ceiling so I left it at minimum zoom.

Even I have the "WOW" effect there is one thing that bother me the most is the dark level of the projector. When display a black image it is still much brighter than the screen background. This make the darkscreen very hard to watch (Unforgiven, Mask of Zorro for example). The lamp has 60 hours on it now and I think it might has improve a little bit. Will the black level improve with more hours on the lamp? or my projector has some light leakage? or is it the way it is?

BTW Brightness and Contrast was dead on at factory setting on DVE grayscale.

Again thank you all.

I am curious what you are comparing this against for black level, because as far as I know there are no LCDs or DLPs that have absolute black, black levels (ie a black screen display will still always be lighter than the border or surroundings).

If you are trying to get your black screen to match the surrounding border it's not possible.

A high gain screen will probably enhance the "not blackness" of it just like it enhances any other light hitting it.

A few tricks I think would help are to make sure your image reaches your borders on your screen or is bordered somehow. When I was projecting on my wall (before I had a screen) it looked good, but then I put painters tape up to frame where the picture hits. The picture was EXACTLY the same as nothing about the wall changed, but I percieved it as better and people who came to my house actually said stuff like "wow it looks much better now that you have a screen" mistaking the painters tape for a screen.

So tricking the eye by having a border to offset the image from the surrounding can be a good thing. If you can fill the whole 106 inch screen I would think that might be a step in the right direction.

Also backlighting might help. Again I would suggest backlighting where your image fills the screen, as if you backlight but your image has a large border it may actually make the border look blacker and your black image look lighter. The idea being that a black wall behind a black screen showing a slightly grey "black" image will make the grey stand out. But a slightly grey "black" image in front of a glowing background will look black by contrast.

My experience with the 4805 is that dark scenes in movies are just going to look weird. I attribute this to contrast. The 4805 has excellent contrast ratio so when you have a fair amount of light to contrast the dark the difference is stark and your eyes percieve it as truly black. But when you have very little contrast (the bright point is only 1/4 of the way to full white) things look washed out and you can see the greyness to the black.

Again that all said, you will never get a black image where the image is completely a match for the surrounding material with a 4805.

spyder696969

08-11-06, 12:01 PM

If you are trying to get your black screen to match the surrounding border it's not possible....you will never get a black image where the image is completely a match for the surrounding material with a 4805.

Agreed. Perhaps many TV owners are used to seeing a black border that has a slightly relective surface. This surface picks up just enough light to not be a "true black", as compared to a flat black border you might find on a DIY screen, thus they have perceived the image to match the border in the past.

zductive

08-11-06, 07:14 PM

The contrast issue is one of the reasons why a gray screen works well with the 4805. The little projector has enough light to illuminate the gray screen and it goes close to black in the dark scenes.

Of course, you can pay a lot more an get better performance.
But, for the buck, this projector rocks - I say this after having one for 1.5 years.

Carada gray screen - great match

dbenne00

08-12-06, 09:40 AM

mynym

08-12-06, 01:50 PM

Ja Phule

08-12-06, 04:13 PM

Is there any advantage or disadvantage of using a 3 RCA component to M1-A cable into the 4805?

The reason why I ask is because I need 35' of cable from my receiver to the 4805. Monoprice sells a M1-A to 3RCA component cable (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10235&cs_id=1023505&p_id=2862&seq=1&format=2&style=) for only $12.80. Where as if I go with the 35' of component cable it's $30.40 (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10235&cs_id=1023502&p_id=2855&seq=1&format=2&style=)

Although I can buy the non premium component cable in 50' lengths I'd rather have a shorter run.

Only issue is if you feed 480i via component to the m1 port, it will not use the 4805's faroudja processor to deinterlace. If you are only using component for 480p/720p/1080i content then that should be fine. Also, using the m1 port for component means it takes up the m1 port for other inputs such as hdmi, vga, and dvi and you will need to manually switch cables if you want to use those.

mynym

08-12-06, 05:12 PM

Only issue is if you feed 480i via component to the m1 port, it will not use the 4805's faroudja processor to deinterlace. If you are only using component for 480p/720p/1080i content then that should be fine. Also, using the m1 port for component means it takes up the m1 port for other inputs such as hdmi, vga, and dvi and you will need to manually switch cables if you want to use those.

The perfect answer :)

Thank you.

mbrennan5

08-13-06, 12:17 PM

Ja Phule

08-13-06, 12:31 PM

Im about to purchase a 4805 as my first PJ and have some connection questions:
For now Im not upgrading to a HD stb. Should I use the componant output of my time warner box? Do I need a converter for input into the 4805? What kind of connection will I need for when I do upgrade to HD? Should I use the s-video or component output on my DVD player?

Why not upgrade to HD right away? Time Warner should let you switch cable boxes for free. You'll need a converter box or some type of tuner to watch tv. You'll need to use component or dvi/hdmi if you want to receive HD. You should use component from your dvd player.

mijoeldotor

08-13-06, 03:02 PM

Now I´m planning to go for a DVI connection for my 4805. I know I must use the "native" mode in order to get the best PQ posible, via 1:1 pixel map.
The problem is I´m using the zoom at max because I need to fullfill a 16:9 92" screen (78 inches width, 43 inches heigh), in "16:9" mode on my 4805 (I do not have enough place to locate the pj). If I use the native mode, the image shrink 10 inches each side , and is the same image if I select the "4:3" mode (so I get 58' width, 43 inches heigh, the aspect ratio is 1.33).
My cheap Pioneer dvd is set in 16:9 mode, but is the same if I set it al 4:3 pan-scan or 4:3 letterbox.
First, I thought my region 4 dvd discs were 1.33 instead of 1.78 how are labeled. But then, I take the DVE disc, knowing is 16:9 really....then the same situation.
Am I doing something wrong? Is the dvd player the problem? How can the "native" mode have the same width the "4:3" have?
If I can not fullfill the screen with the image, I should buy a smaller screen, but i do not like this idea.
Thanks

Spongeworthy

08-13-06, 04:06 PM

Barrettmr

08-13-06, 05:05 PM

Hi

Having finally finished my HT build out I moved my DeLite screen and 4805 from my family room. Everything has gone very well but I have now got PQ issues.

I have got a fuzzy bright spot which looks like it could be a dust spot - will go through the cleaning recommendations and see.

The other issue is what looks like thick line shadows on some on the screen (vertical), this is most evident when a light color moves across the screen, a shot with lots on snow is a good example, when the film moves you can see these lines like something wrong with the screen. I did not see this at all when the screen was in the family room.

The main change is that the family room had a light cream wall and my new HT room has a black matt wall behind the screen, can this have any effect on the picture?

The only other thing I can think of is during the move dirt/dust got moved and the screen needs a wash?

Any ideas/help

Thanks

BobBart

08-13-06, 06:40 PM

Crap, I have the light tube problem also! I bought my 4805 last year during the black friday sale and only have 250 hours on it, of course it was a refurb so who really knows how long it was actually used. Its a light yellow brown streak on the right side. I bought the extended warranty thru staples. Has anyone had to send their projector in using the staples warranty?

mijoeldotor

08-13-06, 10:54 PM

What connection are you using now? I use component and native is the same as 4:3. I don't think you'll get 16:9 with native until you actually hook up the DVI connection.

I´m using component. Do you know why can´t I get 16:9 with native using component?
So DVI will not bother me if it show me 16:9 in native. Have you expirience that?

adude

08-13-06, 10:55 PM

My projector is having a weird screen shape issue. The shape in right lower corner is somewhat like this. Its not perfectly rectangular.

Not sure if this was the problem from the time I got this projector, but I have noticed it since last month. It's only in one corner. I tried all the keystone setting but it messed up the shape more in other corners. Has anyone seen it in the past? Just for the information, projector is ceiling mounted.

adude

08-13-06, 11:00 PM

I´m using component. Do you know why can´t I get 16:9 with native using component?
So DVI will not bother me if it show me 16:9 in native. Have you expirience that?
I am getting 16:9 on Component in native with HD receiver. The receiver is sending 1080i with 16:9 aspect ratio. 4805 is set to Native.

Ja Phule

08-13-06, 11:07 PM

I´m using component. Do you know why can´t I get 16:9 with native using component?
So DVI will not bother me if it show me 16:9 in native. Have you expirience that?

It's because with component, you are sending 480i (or 480p), which is 720x480. The 4805 is 854x480 so in native mode, you will get those black bars on the side. If you are feeding the 4805 480i/p, you should set the 4805 to 16:9 mode.

Even with DVI/HDMI, if you feed the 4805 480p, it will still have the bars on the side if you set it to native.

mijoeldotor

08-14-06, 08:08 AM

thank you, Ja Phule... you should put this in you FAQ.. ja ja ja.
Now I´ve got it....using the bravo D1, I should pixel map 854 (or 852??) x 480 and setting the 4805 in "native" will fullfill my 1.78 screen.

BobBart

08-14-06, 09:51 AM

If anyone is interested I am going to post my experiences dealing with the staples extended warranty plan on the 4805. I'm pretty sure a few people bought this plan. I did call today to get service about the light tube problem. There was no wait for a csr and they said they would locate an authorized service center and call me with 24hrs. They obviously don't know that there is only one service center. So we will wait and see.

spyder696969

08-14-06, 12:08 PM

Martin Butler

08-14-06, 03:38 PM

Just got my 4805 back from service. I was hearing the buzz saw noise. Don't know what they've done, but it seems OK so far. InFocus always loads the latest firmware in when servicing, does this mean I no longer have to change the RGB gains/offsets to 58 and 28.5?

Mojo_LA

08-14-06, 06:56 PM

I have an Infocus 5700, which I think is nearly identical to the 4805... anyway, I'm on my 3rd unit (from warranty work) and despite the fact that Infocus says this isn't normal, I've always noticed a bias towards green in the image. I've had to reduce the green bias/gain down to about 40 in both channels to compensate.

Has anyone else noticed this? I'm wondering if some sort of color correction filter might be a better option.

Ja Phule

08-14-06, 10:17 PM

Martin Butler

08-15-06, 12:57 AM

Thanks Ja Phule, I did reset the gains/offsets when I got it back and it looks normal. I am feeling a bit guilty though, I haven't done a calibration in a long time ;)

Alex solomon

08-15-06, 11:03 PM

Upconvert from what to what?! Both a standard DVD and the SP4805 are 480p resolution. Why would you want to and why would it matter?!The HDMI/DVI/M1 connection is the highest quality interface on the SP4805.
Just bought HD-A1 and hooked it up to my 4805 via component and left my Bravo D1 hooked to the DVI. I was planning on watching both HD-DVD and occasional SD-DVD on the Tosh through component and most of SD-DVD through DVI with my Bravo D1. Should I buy HDMI switcher and connect both via HDMI/DVI connection to the 4805 since you said this will yield the highest quality, or should I leave it as is connected now for the best PQ?

spyder696969

08-16-06, 12:25 AM

Just bought HD-A1 and hooked it up to my 4805 via component and left my Bravo D1 hooked to the DVI. I was planning on watching both HD-DVD and occasional SD-DVD on the Tosh through component and most of SD-DVD through DVI with my Bravo D1. Should I buy HDMI switcher and connect both via HDMI/DVI connection to the 4805 since you said this will yield the highest quality, or should I leave it as is connected now for the best PQ?

While I don't have an answer for your inquiry, I'd certainly be interested in an A/B comparison between the 2 units with an SD disc. I'd also like to hear your opinions of how the HD looks, compared to SD with the 4805.

BobBart

08-16-06, 07:03 AM

Update on the staples extended warranty, light tube issue. I was referred to a company in NJ,AMJ electronics. As soon as I mentioned a yellow brown streak on the right side, he said you have a bad light tube. He was quite familiar with the problem and said he seen it alot on the x2. He said they have tried to fix just the tube itself and were never able to do it, but he is ordering a part directly from infocus to fix it,which I am assuming is the whole light engine. He is sending me a prepaid box to send my projector to him. I will update again after I have gotten it back.

Devedander

08-16-06, 01:14 PM

Alex solomon

08-16-06, 01:41 PM

While I don't have an answer for your inquiry, I'd certainly be interested in an A/B comparison between the 2 units with an SD disc. I'd also like to hear your opinions of how the HD looks, compared to SD with the 4805.
I will let you know.

Luis Gabriel Gerena

08-16-06, 01:43 PM

Alex and everyone else using HD-dvd with the 4805, it will be nice to hear your opinion. I am thinking on getting one after seeing how much better the demos at some store look compare to plain cable HD broadcast.

mijoeldotor

08-16-06, 01:57 PM

Alex solomon

08-16-06, 02:31 PM

dante1

08-16-06, 09:21 PM

Sorry if I am off topic but my 4805 lamp just went dead after only 800 hours. I have been looking at different retailers for lamps but I am surprised to see the prices. Does anyone know of a good source in Canada or the US that supply SP-Lamp-021 at a reasonable price? Also, do they offer an extended warranty on these lamps? I don't want to spend $300+ every 6 months.

Thanks,

Dante1

spyder696969

08-16-06, 10:14 PM

scitek

08-16-06, 10:25 PM

Prices range anywhere from $300-$330 EVERYWHERE. Here's a 3-year warantee on the lamp:

http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=elw3+infocus&btnG=Search

How does that work? Who are you buying the new lamp from and who do you redeem the warranty from if the new one dies?

mijoeldotor

08-17-06, 12:18 PM

You can use an adaptor. PQ is said to be the same.

thanks.
Let us know your point of view HD-A1 versus D1.

speed32219

08-17-06, 01:43 PM

My opinion for what it is worth. I still love my lil, outdated and discontinued 4805.

I would think a big difference between the HD-A1 and the D1 is the Toshiba is roughly 10 times the cost. (For no noticeable difference in image quality.)

I plan on a quick simple test (As soon as I get the DVI-D to HDMI adapter from monoprice) that should be equal to sampling a HD-A1 (at least on the 4805) unit by recording a HD movie (Comcast PVR) and then playing the same SD-DVD movie using the D1. (pausing a still image and jumping back and forth between the two using the input selector of the yammy AVR remote)

The 4805 does a very, very good job of scaling the 720P and 1080i signals that I've seen so far on the HD channels. But it is scaling and I would think that a pixel mapped image married to the PJ's actual pixel structure would give the best image possible. (no scaling, converting, stripping, etc. of the source) IMHO.

tradewinds

08-18-06, 10:54 AM

Suppose I´ll go for the Bravo D1. I need a 12' DVI - M1 cable. Later, I want to improve and go for a HD DVD player, which output is HDMI. Can I add an adapter HDMI-DVI in order to re-adapt my old 12' cable? What´s about the PQ?

My preference would be to get a 12' HDMI with 1 HDMI/DVI adapter and 1 HDMI/M1 adapter, then remove one adapter when you no longer need the DVI port. In that way, if you upgrade your projector to one with HDMI port also, then you get rid of both adapters.

Luis Gabriel Gerena

08-18-06, 11:53 AM

[QUOTE=speed32219]I plan on a quick simple test (As soon as I get the DVI-D to HDMI adapter from monoprice) that should be equal to sampling a HD-A1 (at least on the 4805) unit by recording a HD movie (Comcast PVR) and then playing the same SD-DVD movie using the D1. (pausing a still image and jumping back and forth between the two using the input selector of the yammy AVR remote) /QUOTE]
I dont really think a Comcast broadcast is on the same league as an HD-DVD to be honest.

Luis Gabriel Gerena

08-18-06, 11:55 AM

I plan on a quick simple test (As soon as I get the DVI-D to HDMI adapter from monoprice) that should be equal to sampling a HD-A1 (at least on the 4805) unit by recording a HD movie (Comcast PVR) and then playing the same SD-DVD movie using the D1. (pausing a still image and jumping back and forth between the two using the input selector of the yammy AVR remote)
I dont really think a Comcast broadcast is on the same league as an HD-DVD to be honest.

mijoeldotor

08-18-06, 01:23 PM

My preference would be to get a 12' HDMI with 1 HDMI/DVI adapter and 1 HDMI/M1 adapter, then remove one adapter when you no longer need the DVI port. In that way, if you upgrade your projector to one with HDMI port also, then you get rid of both adapters.

anyone has tested this? I guess there are to much conections and we have a hight probability to loose signal....

BobBart

08-18-06, 07:44 PM

Well I'm using a 35' dvi to hdmi cable with a hdmi/m1 adapter all from monoprice and it works with no problems.

spyder696969

08-18-06, 08:36 PM

Well I'm using a 35' dvi to hdmi cable with a hdmi/m1 adapter all from monoprice and it works with no problems.

Same thing here, no issues at all.

tradewinds

08-19-06, 11:21 AM

I agree, I have a bunch of adapting (HDMI, DVI, M1) from my 4805, HDMI switcher, D1, OTA HDTV tuner, etc, but since all is using a digital signal, I see no signal loss. I guess if it was analog, a fair amount of loss may be seen.

therealgeno

08-20-06, 02:13 AM

spyder696969

08-20-06, 03:45 AM

Well, it has been a long while since I have posted here. 4805 still running strong. Of those people who have had their units a while, have any gone ahead and done the color wheel cleaning and, more importantly, noticed enough improvement to feel that it was worthwhile, including the stress of even messing with the color wheel?

I did wheels on two different units in under 30 minutes each, back to back, start to finish. Both were so filthy that it was impossible to see color on the wheel. Both had over 2000 hours. Was it worth it? I didn't see any huge difference, but it was nice to know that I could do it. Was it stressful? I remember holding my breath a few times, but I think I was being overly cautious.

speed32219

08-20-06, 10:02 AM

I dont really think a Comcast broadcast is on the same league as an HD-DVD to be honest.

You are correct. They both do 720P or 1080i except the HD-A1 DVD does not compress the source and probably an OTA HD signal is better since the locals are not compressing the 720P/1080i (Or at lest some of them), but for test purposes it will have to do. The Comcast and Dish HD signals are pretty darn good and in many cases better than my older DVD player. I am right now comapring the D1 against my SD-850 that upconverts to 720P/1080i and then will compare using HD content from comcast. I am just testing to find the best possible image at low $$$ using my beloved 4805, I am sure if I had a 720p PJ (IN76, Sanyo-Z4, HD72) that the HD signals and the HD native DVD's would look awesome.

James A. McGahee

08-20-06, 11:10 PM

Speaking of the IN76 by InFocus. Does anyone know what the "D" refers to in the review of the IN76D on this forum?? Anyone??

Alex solomon

08-21-06, 09:58 AM

Need some help here. I calibrated my Toshiba HD-A1's (component) with DVE and confirmed with THX Optimizer and ended up with contrast of 28 & brightness of 49. 28 for contrast seem very low but that is the value I am getting with calibration discs. Anyways, when I playback a DVD on A1 (SD-DVD only, I haven't tried HD-DVD yet waiting on Netflix to deliver one) the picture is darker and color look a little exaggerated than my Bravo D1 (DVI). To verify this I played the same movie (tow discs of the same movie, one in A1 and the other in Bravo D1) and did comparison by switching between the two inputs, component (A1) and DVI (Bravo D1) and sure enough it was clear that the A1s picture is way darker, so dark as a matter of fact, color don't look right and I may be losing some detail in dark scenes. I had to push the contrast to on the A1 to 43 to match the overall brightness of the picture & color of the Bravo D1. What I am to do here? I have always trusted and liked my calibrated setups/values but the calibrated contrast and brightness value of the A1 its a little bit out of whack. Does anyone has any thoughts?

Martin Butler

08-21-06, 10:20 AM

Is your 4805's DVI input set to the 58 and 28.5 Gains/Offsets setting?

Alex solomon

08-21-06, 10:28 AM

Is your 4805's DVI input set to the 58 and 28.5 Gains/Offsets setting?
Yes, it is. But my problem is with the component input not DVI.

Ja Phule

08-21-06, 01:41 PM

Yes, it is. But my problem is with the component input not DVI.

Alex, I'd check your gains/offsets settings in component just in case for some reason your 58/28.5 dvi gain/offsets were somehow applied to component also... It's happened to me at least before.

If you can calibrate the brightness/contrast on the player itself, you may need to tweak those settings also.

Alex solomon

08-21-06, 02:13 PM

Alex, I'd check your gains/offsets settings in component just in case for some reason your 58/28.5 dvi gain/offsets were somehow applied to component also... It's happened to me at least before.

If you can calibrate the brightness/contrast on the player itself, you may need to tweak those settings also.

Ja, gains/offsets settings in component are 50/50 for all. The only picture setting on the A1 is Enhanced Black level, which you can set to "ON" for 0 IRE or "OFF" for 7.5 IRE. I set mine to "ON" i.e. 0 IRE.

Cataphract

08-21-06, 04:07 PM

Ja, gains/offsets settings in component are 50/50 for all. The only picture setting on the A1 is Enhanced Black level, which you can set to "ON" for 0 IRE or "OFF" for 7.5 IRE. I set mine to "ON" i.e. 0 IRE.

I have one of the older model toshiba dvd players that is a nice 480i player with component out and it also has an enhanced black level option. I calibrated it with EBL on and had the similar problem you describe above.

After some more research and reading DVE's detailed manual I found that it is best calibrate when DVD player is in standard mode without any artificial enhancements.

So I would suggest that you definitely turn the EBL to "OFF" as all calibration should be ideally done when the player is in 'Normal' or 'Standard' mode when it is not doing any processing and is simply relaying the signal in its original format.

I think you will find different results on the contrast setting. Once calibrated right, your PJ will give you better black level anyway.

Alex solomon

08-21-06, 05:29 PM

So I would suggest that you definitely turn the EBL to "OFF" as all calibration should be ideally done when the player is in 'Normal' or 'Standard' mode when it is not doing any processing and is simply relaying the signal in its original format.

Thanks, I will try that tonight. I turned the EBL to "ON" because it is the recommended setting for component output in the A1 user forum.

Ja Phule

08-21-06, 11:26 PM

Devedander

08-21-06, 11:47 PM

Can someone point me to the theatertek settings for a 4805? I believe it was VMR9 but don't remember the other settings... thanks!

Alex solomon

08-22-06, 08:47 AM

Alex,
Do you have a direct connection between the A1 and the 4805? Is there anything between the 2 devices that could affect the pq? Any reason you're not using the hdmi output on the A1? Just reserving that for the Bravo?
Ja, I have my A1 and Motorola cable box connected my HK 330 via the component inputs. I switch between these inputs using the HK. I don't see the PQ, at least HD cable channel, being affected by this. Come to think of it, DaGamePimp did say his switching using his HK 330 affected the PQ and he returned his HK due to this reason. I will see if direct connection improves the PQ. The reason I don't use the HDMI on the A1 is because: 1) my receiver does not have HDMI input. 2) the A1 does not pass BTB if using the DVI input (hopefully it will be fixed with next firmware upgrade).
I am really wondering now how much information I will be missing if I just use the DVI due to the fact that the A1 will not pass BTB when connected to DVI input. I am just spoiled with that magic 58/28.5 DVI numbers and thinking about getting the manual 2x1 HDMI switcher from monoprice and connect both players via DVI. Is an HDMI to DVI adaptor going to affect the PQ? What do you think of this setup?

Bergowitz

08-22-06, 03:26 PM

I would like to ask if anybody knows what is best ? From my DVP-NS930V to the 4805. Is it interlaced or is it progressive. Which one has the best de-interlacer. I can´t seem to find anything about the one in the dvd-player.

I also have a Thule DVA250B dvd-player which has a VGA output. Would this be even better than with the component on the DVP-NS930V ? (VGA -> M1-DA)

spyder696969

08-22-06, 03:32 PM

I would like to ask if anybody knows what is best ? From my DVP-NS930V to the 4805. Is it interlaced or is it progressive.

I would think that the 4805 would be better than a Sony player made in 2004.

Ja Phule

08-22-06, 05:16 PM

Ja, I have my A1 and Motorola cable box connected my HK 330 via the component inputs. I switch between these inputs using the HK. I don't see the PQ, at least HD cable channel, being affected by this. Come to think of it, DaGamePimp did say his switching using his HK 330 affected the PQ and he returned his HK due to this reason. I will see if direct connection improves the PQ. The reason I don't use the HDMI on the A1 is because: 1) my receiver does not have HDMI input. 2) the A1 does not pass BTB if using the DVI input (hopefully it will be fixed with next firmware upgrade).
I am really wondering now how much information I will be missing if I just use the DVI due to the fact that the A1 will not pass BTB when connected to DVI input. I am just spoiled with that magic 58/28.5 DVI numbers and thinking about getting the manual 2x1 HDMI switcher from monoprice and connect both players via DVI. Is an HDMI to DVI adaptor going to affect the PQ? What do you think of this setup?

I would try to see if it's the receiver or even possibly the component cable (from a1 to hk) that may be bad. I had my contrast as high as 100 on the 4805 with my xbox using a cheap component adapter. It turns out, if I have my svideo and component outputs from my xbox both connected, the white level became very low over component, as soon as I unplugged the svideo cable I saw an instant boost in contrast.

Alex solomon

08-22-06, 05:56 PM

I would try to see if it's the receiver or even possibly the component cable (from a1 to hk) that may be bad. I had my contrast as high as 100 on the 4805 with my xbox using a cheap component adapter. It turns out, if I have my svideo and component outputs from my xbox both connected, the white level became very low over component, as soon as I unplugged the svideo cable I saw an instant boost in contrast.
Alright then, I will connect my 35 ft Blue Jeans component cable directly from A1 to 4805 to bypass the HK and rule out bad cable.

Mako PJ

08-22-06, 07:51 PM

I have had my 4805 for nearly 2 years. I love it. Recently got a Xbox 360, however, was wondering what people were using for output for the Xbox 360. Currently I am using 1080i from the 360, when I switch it to 720 the image seems very very dark. However, the image quality as far as sharpness and depth seem much better with the 720p. Was wondering if anyone else was having similar problems. Basically, the image sharpness looks really good in 720p but the image is too dark to the the point in some scenes you can't even see. Doesn't seem uniform either. Hope this makes sense.

Ja Phule

08-22-06, 08:21 PM

smithfarmer

08-22-06, 09:44 PM

However, the image quality as far as sharpness and depth seem much better with the 720p.
The 360 is a native 720P device and that is what you should use. Let the 4805 do the scaling from 720P to it's native resolution of 480P. Why have the 360 unnecessarily scale the 720P signal up to 1080i just to have the 4805 scale it back down to 480P? The less scaling going on the better your image will be.

Mako PJ

08-22-06, 11:57 PM

Well, I don't know how to describe it. It's not even darkness. If I up the contrast and brightness up enough to see the whole picture than it saturate the other parts.

It's really weird, in some cases it looks lot better in 720p but it's really tough to see because of the darkness factor.

Your picture settings will vary at 1080i and 720p. If you feel it's too dark, try adjusting your brightness level on the 4805.

Ja Phule

08-23-06, 12:26 AM

Well, I don't know how to describe it. It's not even darkness. If I up the contrast and brightness up enough to see the whole picture than it saturate the other parts.

It's really weird, in some cases it looks lot better in 720p but it's really tough to see because of the darkness factor.

Contrast controls the white level. Brightness controls the black level. If it's too dark then you should tweak the brightness. You can also try playing with the gamma settings, some people think moving the gamma from film/crt to video helps when it comes to gaming.

CFH

08-23-06, 01:42 AM

I have searched this thread for my answer and i was unable to access the first thread so I will just ask. I have noticed lately these scan lines rolling up my image no matter what I am viewing (480i / 480p/ 720p/ 1080i). I clean my lamp housing on a regular basis and I only have about 1500 hours on my bulb. Is there any fix for this problem?

jtdman

08-23-06, 02:01 AM

I have a question for anone who uses, or has used, Xbox Media Center as a DVD player. I'm currently using it at 480p on my 4805, but was just curious as to how much better - if any - an Oppo 971 would look if I ran it through the M1 port? Does the Oppo's ability to upscale give any advantage over the modded Xbox, which runs through the component input?

Xbox dvd player is junk..... IMO. Very grainy and fuzzy picture on my 4805 vs my 2900.

Xbox 360, well i haven't seen any good hacks for it yet.... :D

Devedander

08-23-06, 03:11 AM

I have an HTPC pixel mapped and while it does look better than my xbox over component it's not like night and day... most people comming over can't tell the difference so I am pretty much ok with my XBMC... bear in mind that I don't think XBMC quality is the same as Xbox's built in DVD player in quality...

BobBart

08-23-06, 06:16 AM

CFH,

Sounds like a ground loop problem.

Alex solomon

08-23-06, 08:02 AM

I would try to see if it's the receiver or even possibly the component cable (from a1 to hk) that may be bad. I had my contrast as high as 100 on the 4805 with my xbox using a cheap component adapter. It turns out, if I have my svideo and component outputs from my xbox both connected, the white level became very low over component, as soon as I unplugged the svideo cable I saw an instant boost in contrast.
I connected my A1 directly to my 4805 and all is well. It seems the culprit was either the HK or the cable form A1 to HK. Since I rarely watch any TV I am going to stick with direct connections, A1 to 4805 (component) & D1 To 4805 (DVI). Thanks for the tip Ja Phule.

Mako PJ

08-23-06, 09:33 AM

I adjust the levels and it just doesn't look right. It's not uniform darkness. So, if you either up the contrast or brightness or both you get saturated white in many areas of the picture. The gamma settings do help somewhat but really the same thing applies... I still have up the contrast and brightness.

Basically, if I keep the factory settings and the scene is outdoors with bright sunlight, it looks awesome, as soon as you go into shadow, the shadows are like 10 times the darkness they should be. It's very wierd, the darkness is not uniform... that is the only way I can describe it.

If I switch to 1080i, the colors and light levels are right on, it's just a tad sharper and more realistic under the 720p settings minus the dark level problems.

I guess I will just keep it at 1080i. It's still an awesome picture.

Contrast controls the white level. Brightness controls the black level. If it's too dark then you should tweak the brightness. You can also try playing with the gamma settings, some people think moving the gamma from film/crt to video helps when it comes to gaming.

Martin Butler

08-23-06, 10:59 AM

Cataphract

08-23-06, 11:14 AM

I had my contrast as high as 100 on the 4805 with my xbox using a cheap component adapter. It turns out, if I have my svideo and component outputs from my xbox both connected, the white level became very low over component, as soon as I unplugged the svideo cable I saw an instant boost in contrast.

Hey Ja, are you referring to the Arsenal Xbox kit by any chance? I am using the same one to connect my 4805 by component and TV by S-video and after calibrating with DVE I have my contrast at 76, kind of high when compared to the dvd player (52), but I just thought that was because of the crappy xbox's crappy dvd player.

Did you get rid of that adapter? I am so far okay with the picture that my 4805 is displaying over Xbox, its not as good as the DVD player but works for games.

What I found was that 720p is not that impressive or that I can hardly tell the difference b/w 480p and 720p games, don't know if this cheapo adapter is the cause for that.

Atwater27

08-23-06, 12:05 PM

Ja Phule

08-23-06, 12:05 PM

Hey Ja, are you referring to the Arsenal Xbox kit by any chance? I am using the same one to connect my 4805 by component and TV by S-video and after calibrating with DVE I have my contrast at 76, kind of high when compared to the dvd player (52), but I just thought that was because of the crappy xbox's crappy dvd player.

Did you get rid of that adapter? I am so far okay with the picture that my 4805 is displaying over Xbox, its not as good as the DVD player but works for games.

What I found was that 720p is not that impressive or that I can hardly tell the difference b/w 480p and 720p games, don't know if this cheapo adapter is the cause for that.

Yup, the arsenal adapter. If you disconnect the svideo, you should see a jump in contrast. With DVE, the white level is actually fine at default but the absolute white level is very very low (IRE level I think is what it is called). So the pattern should display fine but the the whites just aren't really white.

In any case, I borrowed my friend's original component adapter (adapter w/o the attached component cables) and the picture quality was significantly better, even at 480i. The arsenal is not only softer but also shows a noise pattern over the whole image that cannot be fixed in my case (unless I turn on some DNR). The arsenal also had bad CUE on 480p, 720p, and 1080i. 720p using the original adapter looked pretty good on the 4805 and is readable.

I'd recommend getting rid of the arsenal. I have no need for it anymore since I changed my second display and no longer need an svideo output. I'm actually using the 4x2 radioshack component switch to output component to both of my displays now and I have no problems.

I'm probably going to get the monster xbox adapter which is around $20 on ebay.

Ja Phule

08-23-06, 12:14 PM

I adjust the levels and it just doesn't look right. It's not uniform darkness. So, if you either up the contrast or brightness or both you get saturated white in many areas of the picture. The gamma settings do help somewhat but really the same thing applies... I still have up the contrast and brightness.

Basically, if I keep the factory settings and the scene is outdoors with bright sunlight, it looks awesome, as soon as you go into shadow, the shadows are like 10 times the darkness they should be. It's very wierd, the darkness is not uniform... that is the only way I can describe it.

If I switch to 1080i, the colors and light levels are right on, it's just a tad sharper and more realistic under the 720p settings minus the dark level problems.

I guess I will just keep it at 1080i. It's still an awesome picture.

Personally, I feel it is still just a calibration issue for you.

This is what I would recommend you do. While in 720p, play a level where you say your whites are saturated (which I think you mean your whites are crushed). Adjust only your contrast level here until you are satisfied. Then play a level where you feel your blacks are too dark (ie, blacks are crushed) and only adjust the brightness on the 4805 until you are satified.

Additionally, many people seem to prefer the 360 VGA cable over the component cable when it comes to picture quality, you should try this also (though I do not believe that it will do 1080i via vga).

CFH

08-23-06, 12:45 PM

CFH,

Sounds like a ground loop problem.

What is a ground loop problem? Also, thank you for responding.

spyder696969

08-23-06, 01:41 PM

What is a ground loop problem? Also, thank you for responding.

See the word "search" at the upper right with the little arrow down by it? Click on that and when the dialogue box opens up, type in "ground loop" inside it. You'll find a bucketload of info.

Ja Phule

08-23-06, 01:43 PM

I connected my A1 directly to my 4805 and all is well. It seems the culprit was either the HK or the cable form A1 to HK. Since I rarely watch any TV I am going to stick with direct connections, A1 to 4805 (component) & D1 To 4805 (DVI). Thanks for the tip Ja Phule.

Glad it worked....so how is HD DVD on the 4805? We need to hear more in this forum.

Mako PJ

08-23-06, 02:15 PM

What I mean by "saturated" whites, is it's too bright. In the well lit areas like outside it's very nice but as soon as you get to shadows it is completely or nearly completely black. If I adjust the contrast up and the brightness up towhere I can see what are basically shadow or dark areas than the bright areas become like a complete white-out. It's not an even brightness/contrast problem. I have never seen this on any video output device. So, basically I up the contrast and/or brightness up to like the 80-90 level than the well lit areas are completely white but the shadow and dark areas than look fine. Hmmm.

Actually, I just got a new lamp today in the mail. I will put it in and try what you suggest again. Thank you for the info, very much appreciated.

Here is a run-down:
1.) Xbox 360 output in 1080i - colors and brightness great but sharpness could be improved.
2.) Xbox 360 output in 720p - sharpness is excellent and a more realistic image is produced except for the shadow and dark areas are WAY too dark, basically unviewable. If I up the brightness and/or contrast to the point where the shadow areas are viewable, the lit area become unviewable with white-out.

Personally, I feel it is still just a calibration issue for you.

This is what I would recommend you do. While in 720p, play a level where you say your whites are saturated (which I think you mean your whites are crushed). Adjust only your contrast level here until you are satisfied. Then play a level where you feel your blacks are too dark (ie, blacks are crushed) and only adjust the brightness on the 4805 until you are satified.

Additionally, many people seem to prefer the 360 VGA cable over the component cable when it comes to picture quality, you should try this also (though I do not believe that it will do 1080i via vga).

utopia1956

08-23-06, 02:21 PM

What are your suggestions for a DVD player using the M1 port? I have a Toshiba SD K860 and have had nothing but problems with it. I wanted to get an opinion form someone using the same projector. The kicker is I am trying to stay around the $100 range.

Thanks Craig
The Vizio Bravo D1 can be pixel mapped 1:1 with the 4805 and can be had for half your budget from Newegg. There are a couple modifications required. Changing a faulty capacitor and glueing down the caps on the power supply. See the thread dedicated to the D1 and 4805: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=660701&page=1&pp=30

Mako PJ

08-23-06, 02:40 PM

One last note. If I output the Xbox 360 in 480p. The colors and brightness is spot on. So, the problem is only in 720p. I switch out my lamp and see if I can get looking better under 720p.

Ja Phule

08-23-06, 02:44 PM

What I mean by "saturated" whites, is it's too bright. In the well lit areas like outside it's very nice but as soon as you get to shadows it is completely or nearly completely black. If I adjust the contrast up and the brightness up towhere I can see what are basically shadow or dark areas than the bright areas become like a complete white-out. It's not an even brightness/contrast problem. I have never seen this on any video output device. So, basically I up the contrast and/or brightness up to like the 80-90 level than the well lit areas are completely white but the shadow and dark areas than look fine. Hmmm.

Actually, I just got a new lamp today in the mail. I will put it in and try what you suggest again. Thank you for the info, very much appreciated.

Here is a run-down:
1.) Xbox 360 output in 1080i - colors and brightness great but sharpness could be improved.
2.) Xbox 360 output in 720p - sharpness is excellent and a more realistic image is produced except for the shadow and dark areas are WAY too dark, basically unviewable. If I up the brightness and/or contrast to the point where the shadow areas are viewable, the lit area become unviewable with white-out.

You are confusing me when you say you are adjusting brightness and/or contrast as this does matter if you are or are not adjusting one of them or both. If the blacks are too dark, do not adjust contrast, just the brightness. If the whites are too bright, adjust only contrast and not the brightness. Adjust them separately and not at the same time.

Cataphract

08-23-06, 02:52 PM

Yup, the arsenal adapter. If you disconnect the svideo, you should see a jump in contrast. With DVE, the white level is actually fine at default but the absolute white level is very very low (IRE level I think is what it is called). So the pattern should display fine but the the whites just aren't really white.

In any case, I borrowed my friend's original component adapter (adapter w/o the attached component cables) and the picture quality was significantly better, even at 480i. The arsenal is not only softer but also shows a noise pattern over the whole image that cannot be fixed in my case (unless I turn on some DNR). The arsenal also had bad CUE on 480p, 720p, and 1080i. 720p using the original adapter looked pretty good on the 4805 and is readable.

I'd recommend getting rid of the arsenal. I have no need for it anymore since I changed my second display and no longer need an svideo output. I'm actually using the 4x2 radioshack component switch to output component to both of my displays now and I have no problems.

I'm probably going to get the monster xbox adapter which is around $20 on ebay.

I still have my Sony CRT TV hooked up by S-video although as I think about it, I rarely use that connection as all gaming is done using the 4805 over component.

I will first try and remove the S-video cable and see if I see a difference, and may be keep it unplugged and only plug it back when I know i will use the TV for xbox.

It is possible though that the component cables on this thing are also of cheapo quality and so I may have to replace it with the Xbox HD pack to see any real difference.

Thanks for the tip though, I will try out different configurations.

Devedander

08-23-06, 05:39 PM

I just received my 4805 from InFocus' repair center. There was an occcasional grinding noise, so I sent it in while there was still a few weeks left on my warranty. They always load the most current firmware before sending repairs back. Now I can keep my cable box on 480i instead of 480p and use the 4805's Faroudja processing via component in without losing the signal and having to hit a button and wait when changing from SDTV to HDTV channels. It takes an annoyingly long time, but that's still tolerable except that if I have my DVD player on while watching TV and switch from a SD to HD channel the 4805 goes to the DVD source automatically and I then have to switch back manually to the cable box input. UGGH!

Anyone else have this issue? Do I have to click off an automatic signal search or something, or am I stuck with this?

I would just turn off the auto source feature, it's probably contributing to what's taking so long because rather than just changing from 480i to 480p it's probably cycling through all the inputs, ending up back at your cable box, then changing ot 480p (or some other hd format) if you disable auto sourcing it won't go through all the other sources first.

If you have a remote like an 880 or something that can handle switching inputs for you then it takes all the issue out of switching sources.

Devedander

08-23-06, 05:45 PM

One last note. If I output the Xbox 360 in 480p. The colors and brightness is spot on. So, the problem is only in 720p. I switch out my lamp and see if I can get looking better under 720p.

The problem you are having doesn't sound like it could be related to the bulb...

Do you have the issue japhule listed where you have an svideo and component cables comming out of your xbox at the same time?

Have you tried restarting the xbox once it is in 710p? Maybe the switching to 720p messes with the 360 somehow...

I think I know generally what you are talking about as it has happened to me with computer games before, where if you switch resolutions in game it messes the engine up and something gets screwed up in rendering whereby some parts of the game can look normal but other parts are messed up (like lights look normal but shadows are all screwy as if the amount of light reductino calculated fora shadow is 10x what it really should be).

Mako PJ

08-23-06, 09:27 PM

JaPhule, ok, I left the contrast very near factory and raised the brightness to 100, which does make it very close but it's still a tad dark. I think that is as good as I can get her. I don't know what else to do. The 480p and 1080i are right on with color and brightness.

I got my new lamp today, I just happened to buy one last week, the current one had 1500 hours. I replaced the bulb and it's about the same, it does look brighter on whole, but the dark scenes are not really any different. I have brightness at 98 with some areas still a tad dark and others appear ok. It's still looks awesome, just barely a touch dark in some areas.

If you have any other suggestion, let me know. Thanks for all the advice, it diffently helped.

You are confusing me when you say you are adjusting brightness and/or contrast as this does matter if you are or are not adjusting one of them or both. If the blacks are too dark, do not adjust contrast, just the brightness. If the whites are too bright, adjust only contrast and not the brightness. Adjust them separately and not at the same time.

Mako PJ

08-23-06, 09:33 PM

Thank you for the suggestion, I did what you suggested and no change.

Yeah, it's really wierd, the lighted areas look just fine and if there is shadow it may as well be a black spot on the screen with brightness at 50, moving brightness up to 100 does help. Still just a tad dark, but it's an awesome picture.

Oh, by the way, I am not using Svideo or anything else. I am just using the HD cables that come with the Xbox360, component. Nothing else is hooked up to the projector at this time.

Thanks for the suggestion, if you have any else, please let me know. Right now the picture looks great even now.

The problem you are having doesn't sound like it could be related to the bulb...

Do you have the issue japhule listed where you have an svideo and component cables comming out of your xbox at the same time?

Have you tried restarting the xbox once it is in 710p? Maybe the switching to 720p messes with the 360 somehow...

I think I know generally what you are talking about as it has happened to me with computer games before, where if you switch resolutions in game it messes the engine up and something gets screwed up in rendering whereby some parts of the game can look normal but other parts are messed up (like lights look normal but shadows are all screwy as if the amount of light reductino calculated fora shadow is 10x what it really should be).

Ja Phule

08-24-06, 12:31 AM

JaPhule, ok, I left the contrast very near factory and raised the brightness to 100, which does make it very close but it's still a tad dark. I think that is as good as I can get her. I don't know what else to do. The 480p and 1080i are right on with color and brightness.

I got my new lamp today, I just happened to buy one last week, the current one had 1500 hours. I replaced the bulb and it's about the same, it does look brighter on whole, but the dark scenes are not really any different. I have brightness at 98 with some areas still a tad dark and others appear ok. It's still looks awesome, just barely a touch dark in some areas.

If you have any other suggestion, let me know. Thanks for all the advice, it diffently helped.

Hmmm.... That is odd though. I'd imagine with 100 brightness, your blacks would be very very gray. I'd also try a factory reset if you don't mind setting everything to default. I'm guessing there could be an issue with your component cable (or worse your xbox360). If you haven't already, try checking your cable connections to make sure they fit tightly. What game are you playing? Does the game by any chance have a calibration option somewhere to help you adjust your brightness/contrast from within the game settings? I don't have a 360 but a friend did bring it over before and we played fight night round 3 at 720p and the game looked awesome without any tweaking from the 4805.

MiGster

08-24-06, 09:50 AM

I will be doing a permanent install soon using both component and M1 to DVI cables about 40' each. How does one get the big M1 connector through the ceiling without creating a big hole above the projector? is there a wall (ceiling)plate available with a M1 connector on it so I could connect the M1 to the attic side of the ceiling and then connect a shorter M1 cable from the wall plate to the back of the projector? Same with component cables? How are people in the forum handling this. Sorry if this is a real basic and dumb question. I just want to do a clean and professional install.....thanks.

Mako PJ

08-24-06, 10:32 AM

It doesn't have anything to do with a specific game. Even in the Xbox 360 dashboard it is much darker with the 720p vs. 480p or 1080i, so it's not any particular game. I can even watch a downloaded video and it's dark also, the new Halo3 announcement video in particular. It looks dead on in color and brightness under 480p/1080i but under 720p I have to crank the brightness up to 100 or so.

I was thinking it might be the cable also. I will try a friends cable and also reset the factory settings to see if that helps. Right now the picture looks great, so it's no big deal. I just find it wierd I have to crank the brightness up so much. Thanks for all the help.

Hmmm.... That is odd though. I'd imagine with 100 brightness, your blacks would be very very gray. I'd also try a factory reset if you don't mind setting everything to default. I'm guessing there could be an issue with your component cable (or worse your xbox360). If you haven't already, try checking your cable connections to make sure they fit tightly. What game are you playing? Does the game by any chance have a calibration option somewhere to help you adjust your brightness/contrast from within the game settings? I don't have a 360 but a friend did bring it over before and we played fight night round 3 at 720p and the game looked awesome without any tweaking from the 4805.