You should also mention the common Pioneer receiver you have doing the DVI switching as well....since the IN7x does deinterlace/scale 1080i properly if that is what it is receiving rather than 720P. Did you try messing with the EDID setting in the service menu section?

yeah, hihostevo and i have the pioneer elite vsx-84txsi, but that's not the problem. it's an issue with the hd-a1 and the infocus M1 port. it doesn't get the edid info properly from the hd-a1 when using dvi-m1 adapter. (or m1-hdmi for that matter)

i get the same problem when eliminating the receiver from the chain and running direct to the m1. i didn't fiddle with any settings as i just thought to myself, "oh, this is what hihostevo's problem is" and gave up and went back to the hdmi port. it basically downscales 1080i from the HD-A1 to 720p. the only reason i tried it was to try and eliminate btb and black crush issue.

i need to upgrade both my inXX firmwares so i'll do that this week and see if anything changes. i highly doubt it since i'm pretty sure the faul lies with the hd-a1 itself. i'm crossing my fingers for a 2.X firmware upgrade from toshiba.

Anybody else go over 3,000 hours on their bulb? Tho' I'm pleased, I'm expecting the ax to fall any day now :(

Anybody else go over 3,000 hours on their bulb?4,583 and counting.

I'm not conversant in all the TLAs and such. I bought a refurb 4805 from the "one day" website almost a year ago. I have it ceiling mounted ($29 on ebay) and since I already have cat5 allover my condo, I used cat5 to svideo baluns for hookups. People are amazed at the picture, right out of the box on my beige painted living room walls. The picture covers 8'x3+' of the wall 14ft away.

A friend gave me an 8' da lite screen on a stand. I want to pry it off the folding stand and mount it on the wall/ceiling if it will improve the picture during the day. (If anyone has done that I'd appreciate input.) I have black curtains on all the windows but I still get leaks. I like the ability to close the screen so my living room looks normal most of the time. (I don't want to advertise to the neighborhood...)

I'm a pretty good techno geek for a grandmother but haven't gone into home theater at all. I would like to know, what are your best recommendations of where I should go from here? What is the most important move in your opinions?

Thanks

e4,583 and counting.Thanks, Cavu. I feel better :)

Are you sure your XBMC is not set to upscale video or something? That's the same effect I get when watching lower quality videos upscaled by XBMC on the 4805...

Double check everywhere in XBMC is set to 480p or NTSC.

Resolution is set to 480p and NTSC.

I’ve got a few questions about using my computer as a HTPC with the 4805.

I had never really considered it until I realized that with an amplifier (which
Didn't want to get lost on the last page...

Comcast provided for free) the signal could look pretty good. This is of course if I can get a graphics card that de-interlaces the image or softens it… something along those lines.

Also, what video card do I need to produce images similar to a Pixel Mapped Bravo D1, and what card would I need to do it?

My current specs are as follows

AMD Athlon XP: 3000+ 2.16 GHz
512MB RAM
DVD-RW and DVD Drives
240GB HDD
AverTV Tuner
GeForce MX-440 64MB Graphics Card with VGA out

And is there a good TV tuner software?

Gartseff,

If you are trying to play dvd's at 854x480 (which the 4805 is) than the most budget I'd go is a 6600gt.

If you want to use it to filter, and denoise, upscale, sharpen then you're going to need more CPU and vid card.

I have a 4805 and a 6600gt with a HTPC similar to yours. I run native res (854x480) over a m1-dvi cable. My vid card has 2 digital outs and a component out as well.

Look for somithing similar. This card can be had for cheap.

Other HTPC questions should be asked in the htpc forum which is here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=26

eThanks, Cavu. I feel better :)
Damn! Nice job mang...any tips? :-)

...any tips?Generally runs 12hrs at a time - never - ever - less than 2hrs per turn-on.

Shutdown with remote only.

Non-smoking environment!

Ceiling mounted in theatre with dedicated HVAC and, while checked a few times, there has never been any dust in the filters.

What do you mean shut down with remote only? You wait till the flashing stops and then turn it off using the on/off switch?

What do you mean shut down with remote only? You wait till the flashing stops and then turn it off using the on/off switch?The projector is powered up/down with the remote only.

The on/off switch is never used - we do not remove power to the projector (except when we were out of the country for a month).

WOW. So you been able to make it last that long and the green light is always on, ready to go again. Cool!

BTW, does everyone agrees that the latest firmware is a must have?

I've never went up form the 1.13 firmware. "If it aint broke, don't fix it."

Well they have that IMPROVED YUV thing that got my attention...

I had never really considered it until I realized that with an amplifier (which Comcast provided for free) the signal could look pretty good. This is of course if I can get a graphics card that de-interlaces the image or softens it… something along those lines.
How is an amplifier from Comcast going to help you with using an HTPC?

Just curious.

WOW. So you been able to make it last that long and the green light is always on, ready to go again. Cool!

BTW, does everyone agrees that the latest firmware is a must have?

I'm still using the original 1.02 firmware. I never really found the need to update it. :)

As for the lamp life question, if I remember correctly, Bob Williams said the 3000 hour lamp life is an estimate that was obtained by testing the number of lamp strikes before it failed, not on actual usage. They based the estimated hours on each strike being equivalent to 2 hours of lamp life.

The common characteristic of people who have reported a long lamp life seems to be the fact that they run the 4805 for very long periods of time per strike. Striking the lamp takes the biggest toll on it's useful life span and those who achieve the longest lamp life more than likely will be the individuals that let their pj's run for much longer periods per strike than the average user who probably runs theirs for 2- 4 hours per strike.

On a different note, I have a question for those whose lamps have gone bad. In the days immediately preceding your lamp going bad, do you remember how long it took for an image to be projected on the screen?

I've got a hunch that an indicator of remaining lamp life might possibly be determined by how long it takes before an actual image is projected onto your screen. The longer it takes for an image to appear, the closer you are to needing a new lamp. I know when my lamp was newer and I would power up the pj I would have an image on the screen almost immediately. I recently passed 1200 hours and lately I have noticed that it takes around 5 seconds before the splash screen appears.

4,583 and counting.

Of course if 1500 is the deviation - that means cavu gets 4500 and someone else gets 1500 to put the universe back into balance :eek:

someone else gets 1500 to put the universe back into balance ... and I'd like to thank that person! ;)

IAC, I forgot to mention that the other reason my lamp is lasting forever is that I bought the InFocus 3-year extended lamp warranty. :o

lol :D

Anyone see Jet Li is The One? that is cavu's lamp :D Similar to Highlander without the swords.

... and I'd like to thank that person! ;)

I just hope it's not me. :p

IAC, I forgot to mention that the other reason my lamp is lasting forever is that I bought the InFocus 3-year extended lamp warranty. :o
Never mind. This is the balance that kras refereed to so I'm in the clear. :)

cavu,

How long does it take after you fire up the 4805 before you to see an image on your screen? Also, with all those hours you are putting on the 4805, when do you have time time to watch the Yamaha?

thebruiesedreed,

While having the cat5 in place may be convenient for you I think many here would suggest that one of the best things you could do for your 4805 would be to pair it up with the Bravo D1 ($35 + shipping from popular eTailer) via dvi-m1 cable and pixel map using custom resolution settings. As for your screen question I would suggest posting to the diy screen forum. You can try removing the screen you were given, sew on a black order, perhaps grommet the sides and use bungies to attach to a pvc/alum fram that you can collapse, and sort out some mounting arrangement for the screen/frame that can be covered up/hidden when its not in use. Again though the folks on the diy thread will have many more (and better!) suggestions. You may want to look into creating/buying a white/light grey screen with positive gain in order to combat ambient/reflected light as the screen you were given may not be the best match. However free is free and if you don't mind investing a little time and money into what you already have you may end up with a better if not elegant solution! Best of luck!

Peace,

How is an amplifier from Comcast going to help you with using an HTPC?

Just curious.
Better image quality ergo a reason to actually use a SDTV tuner

How long does it take after you fire up the 4805 before you to see an image on your screen?It takes just under 15 seconds.when do you have time time to watch the Yamaha?We haven't yet gotten the 1300 mounted and have only been using it for some HDTV during the evenings. I'm trying to set up a dual mount to allow the use of both units.

We haven't yet gotten the 1300 mounted and have only been using it for some HDTV during the evenings. I'm trying to set up a dual mount to allow the use of both units.
I take it that even when mounted you'll be using the 1300 for critical viewing only and the 4805 will be getting a well deserved breather. ;)


Originally Posted by smithfarmer
How long does it take after you fire up the 4805 before you start to see an image on your screen?
It takes just under 15 seconds.
Wow! I guess I can take some comfort in that if there's any truth to my theory. At 5 seconds until I see an image, my lamp should be good for a while.

Any one else care to chime in? How many hours are on your lamp and once you hit the power button, how long does it take before an image appears on your screen?

Better image quality ergo a reason to actually use a SDTV tuner


I think you are confused. Amplifiers do not improve image quality, except perhaps in comparison to a cable run that is too long and is experiencing signal loss.

Also, htpc questions should be in the htpc section. So the short answer to your htpc question is that yes you can do images close to (luis would say better than) a pixel mapped D1 with a powerful htpc, but the D1 costs <$50, and the video card you would need is going to run over $100.

Hey all, I'm new to the 4805, and have a few questions.

I'm considering getting a D1, how much better quality should I expect from this, vs let's say a newer model up-converting dvd? I know it's hard to measure, but is it significant?

If I go with the D1, what adapter do I need to convert the M1 to the DVI output of the D1? I want the flexibility of connecting a PC to it also, by the way. Would this be a M1 to DVI-D, or?? I'm confused about the DVI-D, DVI-A, etc variants.

I'm thinking of getting the adapter from monoprice, and then a separate DVI cable...

Lastly, if for easy of connection's sake, that I chose to connect the D1 to the component input, and save the M1 port for the PC, how much PQ do I lose by not using the DVI for the D1?

Hey all, I'm new to the 4805, and have a few questions.

I'm considering getting a D1, how much better quality should I expect from this, vs let's say a newer model up-converting dvd? I know it's hard to measure, but is it significant?

If I go with the D1, what adapter do I need to convert the M1 to the DVI output of the D1? I want the flexibility of connecting a PC to it also, by the way. Would this be a M1 to DVI-D, or?? I'm confused about the DVI-D, DVI-A, etc variants.

I'm thinking of getting the adapter from monoprice, and then a separate DVI cable...

Lastly, if for easy of connection's sake, that I chose to connect the D1 to the component input, and save the M1 port for the PC, how much PQ do I lose by not using the DVI for the D1?

Better sharpness and clarity of picture. It cannot be accurately described by words, it needs to be seen to be understood. You should not be comparing to 'newer model up-converting dvd' since that is snake oil. You should be comparing to other players that are known to produce good quality picture and function well, ie the oppo.

This is the exact cable I am using with my 4805, and it works perfectly:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10238&cs_id=1023801&p_id=2503&seq=1&format=2&style=
no adapter required with that cable!

If you want to use a computer AND the D1 over DVI, you will need a DVI switch. These can be expensive.

If you want to use the D1 over component, don't buy the D1.

Better sharpness and clarity of picture. It cannot be accurately described by words, it needs to be seen to be understood. You should not be comparing to 'newer model up-converting dvd' since that is snake oil. You should be comparing to other players that are known to produce good quality picture and function well, ie the oppo.

This is the exact cable I am using with my 4805, and it works perfectly:
[
no adapter required with that cable!

If you want to use a computer AND the D1 over DVI, you will need a DVI switch. These can be expensive.

If you want to use the D1 over component, don't buy the D1.


Great, thanks for the information! Yeah, and I should've been more specific with the comparison, but I didn't know what are some other good dvd players out there... So I guess it's mostly a consensus that the D1 when used with the 1:1 pixel mapping via DVI delivers better PQ than say, an Oppo?

Also, since the cable you showed is a DVI-D (dvd/pc side) to M1-D cable, this tells me that DVI-D is what PC video cards and the D1 uses?

Hey all, I'm new to the 4805, and have a few questions.

I'm considering getting a D1, how much better quality should I expect from this, vs let's say a newer model up-converting dvd? I know it's hard to measure, but is it significant?

If I go with the D1, what adapter do I need to convert the M1 to the DVI output of the D1? I want the flexibility of connecting a PC to it also, by the way. Would this be a M1 to DVI-D, or?? I'm confused about the DVI-D, DVI-A, etc variants.

I'm thinking of getting the adapter from monoprice, and then a separate DVI cable...

Lastly, if for easy of connection's sake, that I chose to connect the D1 to the component input, and save the M1 port for the PC, how much PQ do I lose by not using the DVI for the D1?

Ditto to what Quaid stated. In addition, you could buy an inexpensive 2 port manual hdmi switch from monoprice and connect two hdmi inputs with one out. Of course you are going to need hdmi cables as well as DVI-D to HDMI adapters or a DVI-D to HDMI cable for the D1. I have my D1 connected with a dvi-d to hdmi along with a STB that is connected hdmi to hdmi through a Yamaha 5990 AVR. Output from the AVR is hdmi to DVI-d to M1-D adapter at 4805.

And when you start to put these darn cables/adapters together you need to track what is male and what is female to get the right configurati0on. It was much easier installing the dang PJ and Screen.

Ditto to what Quaid stated. In addition, you could buy an inexpensive 2 port manual hdmi switch from monoprice and connect two hdmi inputs with one out. Of course you are going to need hdmi cables as well as DVI-D to HDMI adapters or a DVI-D to HDMI cable for the D1. I have my D1 connected with a dvi-d to hdmi along with a STB that is connected hdmi to hdmi through a Yamaha 5990 AVR. Output from the AVR is hdmi to DVI-d to M1-D adapter at 4805.


Is there any advantage in using HDMI in this scenario, besides that your AVR takes HDMI? I have an older model H/K AVR which doesn't even have component jacks, so I'll just be connecting the inputs directly to the 4805 (except for any S-video and composite sources which will be coming from the AVR).

Is there any advantage in using HDMI in this scenario, besides that your AVR takes HDMI? I have an older model H/K AVR which doesn't even have component jacks, so I'll just be connecting the inputs directly to the 4805 (except for any S-video and composite sources which will be coming from the AVR).

My mistake, I thought you wanted to connect a PC and D1 to the PJ. No advantage unless you have more than one DVI or hdmi source. Go with the cable Quaid recommended.

I have the uprade bug itching me. Has anyone here made the upgrade from the 4805 to HD70? Or even seen any comparison in person? Just wanted some opinions on whether it is worth the upgrade.

I have the uprade bug itching me. Has anyone here made the upgrade from the 4805 to HD70? Or even seen any comparison in person? Just wanted some opinions on whether it is worth the upgrade.

I'm Holding out for a 720 with atleast a 10 Bit Video processor. The HD70 runs with an 8 bit processor. Just be patient prices are falling and Black Friday is just around the corner. :D

My mistake, I thought you wanted to connect a PC and D1 to the PJ. No advantage unless you have more than one DVI or hdmi source. Go with the cable Quaid recommended.


sorry for the confusion, but I do want to connect a PC and a D1 to the PJ, using DVI (neither have hdmi output). So in that case, what is the advantage of using hdmi with a DVI adapter? I'm asking because the hdmi cables are relatively expensive, so I wonder why you recommended using hdmi vs DVI cables?

sorry for the confusion, but I do want to connect a PC and a D1 to the PJ, using DVI (neither have hdmi output). So in that case, what is the advantage of using hdmi with a DVI adapter?
You don't need HDMi to DVI adaptor if you don't have a source/equipment that uses HDMI.
I'm asking because the hdmi cables are relatively expensive, so I wonder why you recommended using hdmi vs DVI cables?
HDMI cables are not that expensive if you look at the right places. E.g. Monoprice.com

You don't need HDMi to DVI adaptor if you don't have a source/equipment that uses HDMI.

HDMI cables are not that expensive if you look at the right places. E.g. Monoprice.com

DVI switches are expensive however so even with DVI-HDMI cables and/or adapters for DVI outputs the HDMI option is cheaper. I have my D1 and HD-DVR cabled to my receiver with a DVI/HDMI cables and then I have a 25' HDMI/M1 cable going to the 4805. and HDMI Switch would accomplish the same thing and provide you with a cheap solution for attaching 2 devices to the M1 input on the projector. :)

I'm interested in the InFocus IN72 projector for 480i/p gaming with component cables on the GameCube and Wii. I was previously interested in a 1080p DLP, but lost interest due to lag with 480i and picture quality loss with game mode. Then I was interested in a CRT HDTV because CRTS have zero lag but was told that I would be disappointed with it if I'll mostly be using 480i/p. There will be zero lag with 480p games since it's the native resolution, right? But how does it do with 480i games running through component cables? Is there any lag at all? If there's even a little then I'll prefer a CRT.

Would you recommend this projector for the best picture quality of 480p/i gaming with zero lag, or would I be better off with an EDTV, HDTV, or computer monitor?

The bulb has a short life of only 3,000 hours that will probably be used in under a year and a half. When replacing the bulb, could I buy one that has a longer lifespan?

What is a good price for this projector new with a free 76 inch screen?

Can you adjust how big the picture is or is it always the same size?

How long of a warranty should it include for the lamp and projector?

How many feet do you need to sit back from the screen? Is 8 - 12 feet enough?

How loud is it?

How dark does the room need to be?

Are there any good CRT 480p projectors?

darien, it sounds like you need to talk to a salesman, that's a load of questions ;)
Their is no single answer to some of them.

I'm not a gamer but I can help with a few of your questions.

Yes, you can adjust the picture size.

Basically, you have to use the same bulb, with a few minor exceptions.

Price quotes are against forum rules because our hosts (AVS) are dealers themselves and it's like bringing your own steak to a restaurant if you know what I mean. If you read between the lines though, you can get a good idea about pricing.

I don't believe a CRT bulb lasts longer than a DLP bulb.

CRT is not digital and will display what they're given from the component outs, it's the source that's 480i, p, 720p, 1080i (not sure about 1080p)

Warranty on a new 4805 was 2 years, on the IN/72/4/6 series, one year.

A room needs to be as dark as you can get it for maximum quality. The 4805 is a bright pj, so you can live with some ambient light when you must.

How loud? Not the loudest and not the quietest. Generally, unless you stick your head within 3-4 feet it's not so loud as to make you notice it when watching movies.

2X screen width is the preferable sitting distance, some are OK with 1.5 X, it depends on the individual.

I am looking for some advice on what could have gone wrong with my projector. I have a sp4805 that I purchased about 10 months ago. It was a refurbished unit from Staples. It is used mostly for my kids to watch movies in the basement. With just over 140 hrs. on the unit the lamp popped the glass inside is completely broken into very small pieces. I e-mailed Infocus and there response was some times that just happens and they would give me 10% off a new lamp. My question is has anyone else had a lamp fail this soon? Is there something else wrong with my projector? Should I spend the money to replace the bulb or just replace the projector? Thanks for any input I am not really sure what to do at this point.

Is there something else wrong with my projector? Should I spend the money to replace the bulb or just replace the projector?Nothing is wrong with your projector. Take the discount. Replace the lamp. Consider a lamp warranty extension (ask InFocus for details). Practice lamp-life extending measures: minimize the number of times you turn in on/off (each lamp strike costs 2hrs of life); it is better to leave it running for up to two hours if you intend to resume later instead of turning it off; keep your filters clean; don't smoke; don't block the ventilation; don't jar the projector.PS. I've got 4,629 hrs and counting on my lamp by following the above recommendations.

cavu, that's gotta be the world record for the 4805 or almost any bulb for that matter. How's it look?

I've read of a couple of people that had over 6000 hours and one particular individual that was over 8500. The common factor among those with long lamp life was they all ran their pj for extremely long periods of time per lamp strike.

I've read of a couple of people that had over 6000 hours and one particular individual that was over 8500. The common factor among those with long lamp life was they all ran their pj for extremely long periods of time per lamp strike.

Confirmed. I'm well over 3,400 hours now, my PJ is constantly exposed to smoke, and I hard power off every time (in direct contrast to cavu). I do clean the filters somewhat often, but not at the 200 hour intervals...maybe more like 400. I've cleaned the CW once. The PJ is on for 8-12 hours per day. I would absolutely say that lamp strikes are the #1 factor in lamp life. Still, I do think that there is a bit of luck and randomness in the bulbs, what with them being made by humans after all.

I've read of a couple of people that had over 6000 hours and one particular individual that was over 8500. The common factor among those with long lamp life was they all ran their pj for extremely long periods of time per lamp strike.

I probably did not need a new lamp then as the SP4805 demo saw a lot of kiosk time without turnoff. Wanted to keep it looking shiny new under flourescent retail lites though so I bought the lamp. Then the place I had it at closed so much for investing in a lamp.

I need to make it a classic gaming projector in the game room.

Hi guys.Does anybody have instructions for cleaning the filters? and is it recommended to clean the lens sometimes? Thanks a mill....

Hi guys.Does anybody have instructions for cleaning the filters? and is it recommended to clean the lens sometimes? Thanks a mill....
Check out Ja Phule's FAQ, under Setup and Maintenance, @ http://japhule.collinsreport.com/4805FAQ/html/index.html

It is used mostly for my kids to watch movies in the basement. With just over 140 hrs. on the unit the lamp popped the glass inside is completely broken into very small pieces.
One question: were you in the room when the bulb popped?

If not, I have a theory...

Noticed a dust blob few nights ago and I checked the dust blob removal guide and I am not sure I perform that myself. It sure looks like easy to screw my warranty while trying to remove the blobs. My PJ is about 10 months old (bought it refurb from Staples with extended warranty till march 2008). I have also noticed a color wheel noise twice that went away when I run the PJ in high power mode for 20 mins. I have done the lamp housing filter cleaning every 250 hours. My question is should I send the PJ now or wait for the problem to get worse and/or while I am away on a planned vacation in Dec-Jan?. I can't be reached during my vacation period if the service dept. needed to get in touch with me though. I have 870 hours on it. Please advice.

Noticed a dust blob few nights ago and I checked the dust blob removal guide and I am not sure I perform that myself. It sure looks like easy to screw my warranty while trying to remove the blobs. My PJ is about 10 months old (bought it refurb from Staples with extended warranty till march 2008). I have also noticed a color wheel noise twice that went away when I run the PJ in high power mode for 20 mins. I have done the lamp housing filter cleaning every 250 hours. My question is should I send the PJ now or wait for the problem to get worse and/or while I am away on a planned vacation in Dec-Jan?. I can't be reached during my vacation period if the service dept. needed to get in touch with me though. I have 870 hours on it. Please advice.
Safest bet is to send it in for cleaning/repair under warranty. Mine developed dust blobs after about 1.5 years, 1000 hours, purchased new. I took a chance and did the cleaning myself. Also cleaned both sides of the color wheel. If you do the repair yourself be careful you don't over tighten the chasis screws as they are made of plastic.

One question: were you in the room when the bulb popped?

If not, I have a theory...

As in "look daddy left us a Pinata on the ceiling! :eek: "

I'm interested in the InFocus IN72 projector for 480i/p gaming with component cables on the GameCube and Wii. I was previously interested in a 1080p DLP, but lost interest due to lag with 480i and picture quality loss with game mode. Then I was interested in a CRT HDTV because CRTS have zero lag but was told that I would be disappointed with it if I'll mostly be using 480i/p. There will be zero lag with 480p games since it's the native resolution, right? But how does it do with 480i games running through component cables? Is there any lag at all? If there's even a little then I'll prefer a CRT.

Most if not all of those questions can be asnwered by reading up... I would suggest you research a bit as you will learn a lot.

There is a lot of information to be found on this forum and I bet if you spend 2 or 3 hours reading up you will be much better suited to make your decision than simply asking a few questions and depending on peoples answers.

Damnnnnn!! Just as I was considering to sell my 4805 to upgrade to Optoma HD70 I started getting this Yellow Band down the right side of the screen yesterday. I heard a few ppl talking about this. Any suggestions?

Just My Luck,

Curtis

Look up light tube fix to see if you can repair it.

Hello, I have heard it is possible to replace just the bulb and not the whole lamp unit. Is this possible and if so does anyone know where to get the bulbs and how much? Thanks.

Damnnnnn!! Just as I was considering to sell my 4805 to upgrade to Optoma HD70 I started getting this Yellow Band down the right side of the screen yesterday. I heard a few ppl talking about this. Any suggestions?


You mean sidegrade, not upgrade. ;)

Here's a start for your light tube issue:

http://www.willswebdesign.com/sp4805/sp4805.htm

Good luck.

Hello, I have heard it is possible to replace just the bulb and not the whole lamp unit. Is this possible and if so does anyone know where to get the bulbs and how much? Thanks.

And here's a starting point for you as well:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=59091

Good luck.

I am looking for some advice on what could have gone wrong with my projector. I have a sp4805 that I purchased about 10 months ago. It was a refurbished unit from Staples. It is used mostly for my kids to watch movies in the basement. With just over 140 hrs. on the unit the lamp popped the glass inside is completely broken into very small pieces. I e-mailed Infocus and there response was some times that just happens and they would give me 10% off a new lamp. My question is has anyone else had a lamp fail this soon? Is there something else wrong with my projector? Should I spend the money to replace the bulb or just replace the projector? Thanks for any input I am not really sure what to do at this point.


I have the lamp issue called "crazing lamp", it's an old issue mentioned on the first 4805 thread. It was common on the HT1000. I realized when I was 200 hs on the lamp, a year and a half ago. Now I have 700 hs on it and I can tell you do not notice any degradation in PQ (IMHO). I add a picture of the problem

Noticed a dust blob few nights ago and I checked the dust blob removal guide and I am not sure I perform that myself. It sure looks like easy to screw my warranty while trying to remove the blobs. My PJ is about 10 months old (bought it refurb from Staples with extended warranty till march 2008). I have also noticed a color wheel noise twice that went away when I run the PJ in high power mode for 20 mins. I have done the lamp housing filter cleaning every 250 hours. My question is should I send the PJ now or wait for the problem to get worse and/or while I am away on a planned vacation in Dec-Jan?. I can't be reached during my vacation period if the service dept. needed to get in touch with me though. I have 870 hours on it. Please advice.

I would send the pj to Infocus now, knowing the you are under warranty.
I have three, but outside the right side of the screen. Do not care.
By the way, are you still using the HD A1 over component or HDMI? What about the BTB?

One question: were you in the room when the bulb popped?

If not, I have a theory...
No I was not home. My wife and kids were watching a movie. My wife said it made a loud noise like a pop and turned off.
Also no smoking, always used the remote to turn off, and only used for movies (at least 2 hrs long)

I would send the pj to Infocus now, knowing the you are under warranty.
I have three, but outside the right side of the screen. Do not care.
By the way, are you still using the HD A1 over component or HDMI? What about the BTB?
Thanks, I am leaning that way. I don't have the BTB issue with the A1 as I am using component.

For those, like me, who purchased the 4805 from Staples with the Black Friday deal, how long did the Manufacturer Warranty last? I need to send my PJ in for service and I was wondering it there was a 1 year manufacturer Warranty on it.

/\ 90 days.

Yes, 90 days unless you purchased an extended warranty.

Yes, 90 days unless you purchased an extended warranty.
And you can only send it to Infocus if it was an Infocus extended waranty. ;)

If you bought the Staples extended warranty it would mean that you have to use whoever the Staples warranty company has a contract with to perform the repairs.

Has anyone else seen this?

My 4805 has 850 hours on the bub. Lately, the fan noise increased so, I cleaned the bulb.

Immediately after I replaced the bulb, the 4805 started with the rowwr rowwr sound - like a little alarm. The picture was fine. Suddenly, the 4805 shut down. Three blinks from the green led. I looked that up and it said that I should turn the 4805 back on. I did and the bulb didn't startup.

Is it a fair guess that the bulb needs to be replaced? I would rather put the $$ towards an upgrade if I am going to have a repair charge in addition to the cost of a bulb.

What do you think?? :confused:

I learned the hard way about cleaning the lamp filters. With just under 500hrs my lamp blew. Every where I look I see the sp-lamp-021 listed for $300+. Are there any other options? Will the sp-lamp-018 work in the 4805? Little help!

ya gotta love this..I purchased my infocus from an e-bay seller's electronic store in december 2004..I immediately registerd my projector and received a confirmation # and a thank you from INfocus..now my projector needs repair and is still under warranty..except they say they are voiding my warranty as it listed as stolen by it's serial #....the same serial # I registered it with and received a thank you with!!!!!!!

so now I am in a battle to get it repaired...I have my Paypal receipt..all shipping labels from seller on the original package..everything........and infocus says they do not care..it is stolen!!!!!!

Now get this..if I send it to them..pay for the repairs and return shipping...they will fix it..that is there policy for stolen projectors!!!!

Policy for stolen projectors!!!!!!!!!geezus..if it's stolen..why fix it..why not turn me into the police or the seller who still exists and online store exists according to PAYPAL whom I called

This sounds like BS not to repair my projector and honor the warranty..if it was stolen..why did they accept my registration..why not tell me then so I could have gotten a refund and purchased it elswhere..or even ask my co-operation to hunt down the theives.........NOOOOOOOO.....we do not pursue stolen projectors according to their tech support..we just don't honor the warranty..and screw the customer when it needs repair

Anyone else have this happen to them???

Infocus will only honor warranties on projectors bought from authorized sellers.

There was a big news item a few years ago about a bunch of 4805's stolen from a warehouse and for buyers to be aware.

I learned the hard way about cleaning the lamp filters. With just under 500hrs my lamp blew. Every where I look I see the sp-lamp-021 listed for $300+. Are there any other options? Will the sp-lamp-018 work in the 4805? Little help!

I don't think I've ever seen the 4805 lamp go for less than $300. I know some users have been able to modify another bulb and have it work with the 4805 but I do not know the details, it was discussed in this thread earlier when there was a shortage of 4805 bulbs.

Is the new HD70 any better than the sp4805? Im not sure if it is worth wile to replace my lamp or just start over and sell my old 4805 on ebay. Thanks

Ive got a problem - my 4805 wont turn on - I turned it on a couple weeks ago and it started to boot up - I left the room and came back and it was off - I figured "oh crap - the bulb went" because I was around 2200 hours - but after reading forums and such, I am under the impression that the machine should still turn on and there should be a red blinking light - anyone heard of this prob?

its got the latest firmware - I didnt have an outage - tried different outlets - fan is fine from what I can tell (clean) - color wheel intact - could this be a power issue?

thanks so much for your time.

Don

follow up to my previous post. The bulb didn't burn out! whew

But, it is making a scraping noise once per second that continues after the bulb turns off.

Are there any instructions about how to replace the fan assembly?????

Infocus will only honor warranties on projectors bought from authorized sellers.

There was a big news item a few years ago about a bunch of 4805's stolen from a warehouse and for buyers to be aware.


don't you think they should have told me as soon as i registered it......and what about their policy for repairing stolen projectors

the law says no one has the right to keep a stolen item..well if it really was stolen..and they know it..why are they allowing me to keep it
and why are they willing to fix it if I pay

that my friend is illegal..handling and repairing known stolen goods.....

this projector was not stolen .....it sounds like a scam by infocus not to repair my projector

maybe they should have sent me a letter saying :

Hi,

thanks for registering your stolen projector

but they did not..they sent me a letter thanking me for my purchase and registering my projector and here is your confirmation # of registration

the law says no one has the right to keep a stolen item..well if it really was stolen..and they know it..why are they allowing me to keep it
and why are they willing to fix it if I payI had exactly the same issue with the first SP4805 I purchased. It was stolen. It turns out it was one of many thousands of units that had been stolen from a warehouse in Chicago. I tried very hard to assist InFocus, their insurance company and their private investigators to trace the unit. I spoke with the RCMP, the police in Wilsonville, OR (InFocus's location), the police in Chicago and the FBI. I spoke many times to InFocus's legal department.

The bottom line? They simply didn't care.

It was not purchased from an authorized dealer so they would not cover the warranty.

They did not want the projector back because it no longer belonged to them - it belonged to their insurance company. Neither InFocus nor their insurance company cared what I did with it.

I ended up returning it to the dealer that I had bought it from in order to get all my money and shipping costs refunded. The last I heard was that the insurance company's private investigator and the FBI were descending on the dealer and the people from whom they had purchased their projectors.

follow up to my previous post. The bulb didn't burn out! whew

But, it is making a scraping noise once per second that continues after the bulb turns off.

Are there any instructions about how to replace the fan assembly?????

You should take out the lamp assembly and clean it every 250hrs. When installing it, do not over-tighten the screws. Turn screws until tight then back off a half turn so you are not putting tension on the color wheel. First time I did it it made a terrible noise and after loosening screws described above I've never had the noise again.

My projector was purchased from a seller in Chicago too..and according to PAYPAL he is still a verified member!!!

think I better call them again and let them know he is dealing with or was selling stolen property..not that it matters as PayPal said there ws nothing they could do since the sale was in December 2004

I had exactly the same issue with the first SP4805 I purchased. It was stolen. It turns out it was one of many thousands of units that had been stolen from a warehouse in Chicago. I tried very hard to assist InFocus, their insurance company and their private investigators to trace the unit. I spoke with the RCMP, the police in Wilsonville, OR (InFocus's location), the police in Chicago and the FBI. I spoke many times to InFocus's legal department.

The bottom line? They simply didn't care.

It was not purchased from an authorized dealer so they would not cover the warranty.

They did not want the projector back because it no longer belonged to them - it belonged to their insurance company. Neither InFocus nor their insurance company cared what I did with it.

I ended up returning it to the dealer that I had bought it from in order to get all my money and shipping costs refunded. The last I heard was that the insurance company's private investigator and the FBI were descending on the dealer and the people from whom they had purchased their projectors.

How and when did you find out it was stolen..I registerd mine as soon as I got it... December ,2004...but nobody told me anything until now when I needed repairs

My projector was purchased from a seller in Chicago too..and according to PAYPAL he is still a verified member!!!

think I better call them again and let them know he is dealing with or was selling stolen property..not that it matters as PayPal said there ws nothing they could do since the sale was in December 2004

There's always a chance the person you bought the unit from didn't know it was "stolen" either, just like cavu experienced, hence PayPal's decision, plus 2 years have passed since the sale. BTW, what is wrong with your projector that it's now necessary to send it in for repairs, gene9p?

I'm still in love with my 4805, no problems and a fantastic image. :)

BUT, I have about had it with the dreaded "preserving the image in its widescreen Anamorphic 2.35:1 format" disclaimers!

I have been looking to add another 106"-120" diagonal screen with 1.4 gain, but I have been thinking (Wife said that is dangerous and usually cost us $$$) maybe I should install an Anamorphic Format 2.35:1 112.4" Diag (44"X104" viewable) or a 130.2" Diag (51" x 120" viewable) instead of a 16:9 screen. This way when watching HD broadcast content I could use the existing 92" diag and when watching movies (about 90+%) in the 2.35:1 format using the other screen.

So, who in this 4805 thread is using a Anamorphic Format 2.35:1 screen?
If so, is it High Power or what gain are you using?

I have seen in the AVS powerbuy that you can pick up a Panamorph U85 Anamorphic Lens for 695. A motorized one for 795. Now more questions.

I would imagine that I would leave the 4805 in Native mode with the D1 and just add the lens.

Is there a formula for a 2.35:1 diag screen size for the placement of the PJ/screen?

Could I use a 62mm Wide angle lens attached to the 4805 (by an adapter ring if one exists) instead of a Anamorphic Lens ?

Maybe this should be in the lens thread, but I thought I would see if anyone with a 4805 is using a Cinemascope type setup.

I'm still in love with my 4805, no problems and a fantastic image. :)

BUT, I have about had it with the dreaded "preserving the image in its widescreen Anamorphic 2.35:1 format" disclaimers!

I have been looking to add another 106"-120" diagonal screen with 1.4 gain, but I have been thinking (Wife said that is dangerous and usually cost us $$$) maybe I should install an Anamorphic Format 2.35:1 112.4" Diag (44"X104" viewable) or a 130.2" Diag (51" x 120" viewable) instead of a 16:9 screen. This way when watching HD broadcast content I could use the existing 92" diag and when watching movies (about 90+%) in the 2.35:1 format using the other screen.

So, who in this 4805 thread is using a Anamorphic Format 2.35:1 screen?
If so, is it High Power or what gain are you using?

I have seen in the AVS powerbuy that you can pick up a Panamorph U85 Anamorphic Lens for 695. A motorized one for 795. Now more questions.

I would imagine that I would leave the 4805 in Native mode with the D1 and just add the lens.

Is there a formula for a 2.35:1 diag screen size for the placement of the PJ/screen?

Could I use a 62mm Wide angle lens attached to the 4805 (by an adapter ring if one exists) instead of a Anamorphic Lens ?

Maybe this should be in the lens thread, but I thought I would see if anyone with a 4805 is using a Cinemascope type setup.

Ya, I am using a Prismasonic H-1000 anamorphic lens and a Carada 118" X 50" (128" diag. 2.35)1.4 gain screen. I also got a DVDO Iscan HD+ video processor to do the 1:1 mapping and aspect ratio control.

There is a lot of great info in the Constant hight 2.35 forum.

There's always a chance the person you bought the unit from didn't know it was "stolen" either, just like cavu experienced, hence PayPal's decision, plus 2 years have passed since the sale. BTW, what is wrong with your projector that it's now necessary to send it in for repairs, gene9p?


When I turn the projector on the green light comes on steady and the fan comes on..but there is no start up sound and beeping like there normally would be...and no lamp light..I have not used it for a few months..and there was only some 250 or so hours on the lamp..i always powered down with the remote and allowed it cool b4 shutting down with toggle switch..but now all i get is the steady light and fan sound ..and no red lights indicating something is wrong

Ya, I am using a Prismasonic H-1000 anamorphic lens and a Carada 118" X 50" (128" diag. 2.35)1.4 gain screen. I also got a DVDO Iscan HD+ video processor to do the 1:1 mapping and aspect ratio control.

There is a lot of great info in the Constant hight 2.35 forum.

Why do we (you) need a video processor/scaler? I thought the Infocus 4805 can do the necessary scaling for CH and it can do the letterbox stretch on all input modes, which adds another great value to this PJ. (Not to mention the Bravo D1 which allows for 1:1 pixel mapping of SD soruce material) I also thought all that was needed is a horizontal stretch anamorphic lens like your Prismasonic H-1000.

As you can see I think to much with all those thoughts.

Been trying to look at your pics, but they are doing maintenance to the Data Base. Good time to do it.

BTW, I like your sig. "2.35 AR is suppose to be bigger than 1.78 AR not smaller!"

anyone know if the HDMI out from the upcoming Playstation 3 will downconvert to 480p ... if I use the 4805 as the display device ?

Thank you.

anyone know if the HDMI out from the upcoming Playstation 3 will downconvert to 480p ... if I use the 4805 as the display device ?

Thank you.

If the output on the PS3 is set to 720P or 1080i it will work just fine. Just as HD content from Comcast at 720p/1080i works. The 4805 will devour it. :)

When I turn the projector on the green light comes on steady and the fan comes on..but there is no start up sound and beeping like there normally would be...and no lamp light..I have not used it for a few months..and there was only some 250 or so hours on the lamp..i always powered down with the remote and allowed it cool b4 shutting down with toggle switch..but now all i get is the steady light and fan sound ..and no red lights indicating something is wrong

Have you tried reseating the bulb? Just unplug it, pull it out, and put it back in. Worth a try.

I almost thought my 4805 died a few weeks ago when I turned it on and I had no image except what looked like a bunch of large white pixels on the very left side of my screen. I turned it off and turned it back on (after waiting a few minutes of course), I would get the same thing. After pulling out the bulb and putting it back in, it works fine now.

Why do we (you) need a video processor/scaler? I thought the Infocus 4805 can do the necessary scaling for CH and it can do the letterbox stretch on all input modes, which adds another great value to this PJ. (Not to mention the Bravo D1 which allows for 1:1 pixel mapping of SD soruce material) I also thought all that was needed is a horizontal stretch anamorphic lens like your Prismasonic H-1000.

As you can see I think to much with all those thoughts.

Been trying to look at your pics, but they are doing maintenance to the Data Base. Good time to do it.

BTW, I like your sig. "2.35 AR is suppose to be bigger than 1.78 AR not smaller!"

Well, there are more AR than 2.35:1 like 2.20:1, 2.0:1. There are also anamorphic (16 X 9 frame) and letterbox (4 X 3 frame) transfers. The 4805 will only do a anamorphic 2.35 stretch. A lot of my movies are in these AR since I like older war/action films. Lawrence of Arabia and John Wayne's Alamo 2.20:1 anamorphic. Apocalypse Now, 2.00:1 anamorphic. The longest Day and The Green Berets 2.35:1 letterbox. Granted there aren't that many that fall into these AR but I just wanted to cover all my bases. I also needed something that would do a 1:1 mapping (854 X 480 @ 48, 60 or 72 Hz) and didn't want to mess with a HTPC. My DVD player will not do 1:1 mapping. I have the Sony 400 DVD changer.

When all is said and done, I LOVE IT! :D

Well, there are more AR than 2.35:1 like 2.20:1, 2.0:1. There are also anamorphic (16 X 9 frame) and letterbox (4 X 3 frame) transfers. The 4805 will only do a anamorphic 2.35 stretch. A lot of my movies are in these AR since I like older war/action films. Lawrence of Arabia and John Wayne's Alamo 2.20:1 anamorphic. Apocalypse Now, 2.00:1 anamorphic. The longest Day and The Green Berets 2.35:1 letterbox. Granted there aren't that many that fall into these AR but I just wanted to cover all my bases. I also needed something that would do a 1:1 mapping (854 X 480 @ 48, 60 or 72 Hz) and didn't want to mess with a HTPC. My DVD player will not do 1:1 mapping. I have the Sony 400 DVD changer.

When all is said and done, I LOVE IT! :D

Great! I won't need the processor, but all the films you listed are my all-time favorites. And with my $35 cheapo bravo D1 I can do the 1:1 custom DVI mapping. So, all is good. When I went to the Prismasonic site and look at the 16:9 to 2.35:1 conversion page and typed in my current screen size, it stated that with a 92" diagonal 16:9 screen I could go to a 114.5" (45"X105") diagonal 2.35:1 screen, which means that without moving my projector I could go to that size. Confirm?

IF that's correct I am super happy and will move in that direction, I'm tired of ppl asking why does it not fill the entire screen.

Also, with a 1.4 gain is your 128" diagonal bright enough in a light controlled environment? Hell, I may need to move the PJ and upgrade my 16:9 to a 106/110.

Great! I won't need the processor, but all the films you listed are my all-time favorites. And with my $35 cheapo bravo D1 I can do the 1:1 custom DVI mapping. So, all is good. When I went to the Prismasonic site and look at the 16:9 to 2.35:1 conversion page and typed in my current screen size, it stated that with a 92" diagonal 16:9 screen I could go to a 114.5" (45"X105") diagonal 2.35:1 screen, which means that without moving my projector I could go to that size. Confirm?

IF that's correct I am super happy and will move in that direction, I'm tired of ppl asking why does it not fill the entire screen.

Also, with a 1.4 gain is your 128" diagonal bright enough in a light controlled environment? Hell, I may need to move the PJ and upgrade my 16:9 to a 106/110.

Yes, if you are maintaining the same screen height then the PJ doesn't need to move. As far as the brightness of my screen, it is still very watchable at over 2000 hours on this bulb.

My projector was purchased from a seller in Chicago too..and according to PAYPAL he is still a verified member!!!

think I better call them again and let them know he is dealing with or was selling stolen property..not that it matters as PayPal said there ws nothing they could do since the sale was in December 2004


gene9p if your paypal was funded from a credit card then you might do well to call the credit card hotline and see if they can help. They are often far more helpful with fraud and the like than paypal is. I actually have found paypal to be abysmal when it comes to protecting buyers. They have actually quoted sections of their EULA to me over the phone that do not exist on the EULA on their website. It's borderline fraud in and of itself...

Good luck with your endeavor, and again...try the credit card people if you used one.

I'm looking to hook my 4805 up to a HTPC. If I go with a 7600GT video card (DVI-I) what cable should I use?

I have searched and seen this one (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10238&cs_id=1023801&p_id=2761&seq=1&format=2&style=) mentioned. Would this work? Can you use a DVI-D cable on the DVI-I connector on the computer?

Also, any idea if any old 7600GT will display the right resolution for the 4805? None of the video card manufacturers specify that they output the proper resolution. Will this card work?

I tried posting on the HTPC forum, but no one seems to have an answer, so I thought I'd post here.

Thanks for any help you can provide on this.

Well, I'm at a loss again. Was about to buy a used projector, then the seller bailer on me.

gene9p if your paypal was funded from a credit card then you might do well to call the credit card hotline and see if they can help. They are often far more helpful with fraud and the like than paypal is. I actually have found paypal to be abysmal when it comes to protecting buyers. They have actually quoted sections of their EULA to me over the phone that do not exist on the EULA on their website. It's borderline fraud in and of itself...

Good luck with your endeavor, and again...try the credit card people if you used one.


unfortunaley it was funded through my checking account......

thanks for your help
Gene

Have you tried reseating the bulb? Just unplug it, pull it out, and put it back in. Worth a try.

I almost thought my 4805 died a few weeks ago when I turned it on and I had no image except what looked like a bunch of large white pixels on the very left side of my screen. I turned it off and turned it back on (after waiting a few minutes of course), I would get the same thing. After pulling out the bulb and putting it back in, it works fine now.


yes I tried that..and all I get is the steady green light comes on immediately with the fan and no lamplight and no sign of startup sounds and actions that normally take place when you turn on the projector

I'm looking to hook my 4805 up to a HTPC. If I go with a 7600GT video card (DVI-I) what cable should I use?

I have searched and seen this one (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10238&cs_id=1023801&p_id=2761&seq=1&format=2&style=) mentioned. Would this work? Can you use a DVI-D cable on the DVI-I connector on the computer?

Also, any idea if any old 7600GT will display the right resolution for the 4805? None of the video card manufacturers specify that they output the proper resolution. Will this card work?

I tried posting on the HTPC forum, but no one seems to have an answer, so I thought I'd post here.

Thanks for any help you can provide on this.

nVidia uses a unified driver release. All 7600GT's work with the ForceWare drivers for all GeForce...except the new 8800's (I think they get their own drivers). Since the drivers are the same, and the manufacturers must follow basic guidelines when building the cards....you will be able to set up your custom resolutions.

You should use exactly the same cable that people have been using for their bravo d1's. DVI-D on the computer end -> M1 at the 4805 end. DVI-D can carry ONLY digital signal, whereas DVI-A carries analogue. DVI-I will carry both of them. You computer will be sending DVI-D not DVI-A from a 7600GT.

The cable you have pictured is perfect, assuming that it is long enough. Don't forget that hiding it along the edges of the wall and running it up the corners will use extra feet!

Because no one replied me :( , I decided to e-mail Oppo customer service. They told me:
1- there are some displays input that does not pass the BTB the 970 send over component. Because someone does, they think there are some problem with the ADC video decoder of the display. Can the 4805 ADC has this issue?


Are there anyone who owns a 970 and the 4805? having the same issue?

I used the DVE to calibrate the BTB (title 12, chapter 13) and I realized could not see the outermost black bar (the btb one) when sending a 480i.
No problem over 480p.
Am I missing sth?

Will the 4805 show how many times the lamp timer has been reset?

Will the 4805 show how many times the lamp timer has been reset?
I gess..No

Are there anyone who owns a 970 and the 4805? having the same issue?

I used the DVE to calibrate the BTB (title 12, chapter 13) and I realized could not see the outermost black bar (the btb one) when sending a 480i.
No problem over 480p.
Am I missing sth?

This is a problem with the OPPO and not the 4805. My Bravo D1 shows the outer most line on the DVE test. My Sony player has the same issue as the OPPO it is called clipping and the DVE disc explains how to compensate for it if you watch the tutorial.

Will the 4805 show how many times the lamp timer has been reset?

Yes, the 4805 will log two or three resets, I forget which, and the hours before the reset. The kicker is this info is only assessable in the service menu which is locked up tighter than the gold in Fort Knox.

So I guess for all end user intents and purposes the answer is no.

So, I got the Bravo DV-1 a few weeks ago & used settings recommended here - 71 hz custom setting & colors. Compared to the 642 with component connections & the sharpness on the projector maxed out, I'm not impressed at all. My image was sharper with the 642 and component cables than with the DVI out. How can that be? I wasn't getting pixelization, but definitely sharper with component.

Compared to the 642 with component connections & the sharpness on the projector maxed out, I'm not impressed at all.

Good grief! :eek: I certainly hope you're not talking about the notoriously poor Philips DVP-642 here. :mad: I'd rate that unit in the same lines as the Cyberhome DVD655, which I tried out once (since it cost me a grand total of $5 :) ). It looked really sharp over HDMI...if you don't mind insane amounts of EE. :o The fact that you're "maxing out" the sharpness on the PJ pretty much says you've become accustomed to that at the supreme expense of PQ. :(

So, I got the Bravo DV-1 a few weeks ago & used settings recommended here - 71 hz custom setting & colors. Compared to the 642 with component connections & the sharpness on the projector maxed out, I'm not impressed at all. My image was sharper with the 642 and component cables than with the DVI out. How can that be? I wasn't getting pixelization, but definitely sharper with component.

So be it, that's the flip side beauty of purchasing $35 dvd players, if it doesn't meet your expectations or personal interpretation of good PQ then no great loss, throw it out or sell it and move on. No point in square pegging a blow hole or something like that.

Spyder, I see you've modified your tag line slightly, LOL.

I thought I might be missing something on the D1. Glad I didn't pay last year's price for it - but I did also purchase the DVI-M1 adapter. I was just surprised after reading about the PQ over DVI that I have actually found it worse...with the Bravo anyway.

I thought I might be missing something on the D1. Glad I didn't pay last year's price for it - but I did also purchase the DVI-M1 adapter. I was just surprised after reading about the PQ over DVI that I have actually found it worse...with the Bravo anyway.
I just got my D1, and its picture is *way* better than the other two DVD players. But good PQ is in the eyes of the beholder, right?

-Dan

But good PQ is in the eyes of the beholder, right?

It certainly helps to have 20/20 vision and not be enamoured with EE. ;)

I was under the impression that dvi was better than using component

I bought the dvi cable some time ago , and I was just messing around with the projector and using my oppo dvd player , I get a much better colored and sharper picture using the regular component than the dvi

I just never bothered to compare the 2 because I was told that the dvi gives better picture

everything is set to thx contrast brightness

but I like the component alot better, so , back in the close the dvi cable goes lol

I just got my D1, and its picture is *way* better than the other two DVD players. But good PQ is in the eyes of the beholder, right?

-Dan

I agree, my D1 is has easily provided a subjectively better image than any other player I've had in my system (Panny S97, Pioneer 59avi, Toshiba 3950, and a Denon lower model I don't remember plus the Iscan HD albeit with another pj) but I'm not one to run around saving others from themselves, if his eyes prefer something else then I respect that as do you.

I now wondering if those that didn't like it over DVI were using the offsets and gains numbers.

yes , my gains were set to 58 and my offsets to 28.5 I think those were the numbers I was told to change them to when using dvi

spyder I was guessing something similar like only 1 of the inputs was calibrated rather than both, etc.

yes , my gains were set to 58 and my offsets to 28.5 I think those were the numbers I was told to change them to when using dviI don't believe those numbers apply to the Oppo! :confused:

Cavu I believe they apply to all/most DVI sources save from a HTPC. The player should be set to reference settings and then if it's not a goofy player it should be basically calibrated!

I think those numbers did apply to the Oppo, but the Oppo needed to be calibrated to reference settings or something. Jeez it's been a long time since I researched the Oppo, what with a better player available to me for cheaper :P

It's been a long time since I thought about it, but I believe the OPPO's current firmware is calibrated for accurate video levels from DVI, not PC levels, so the changes in offsets/gains on the 4805 are still necessary.

Now, I'm not sure what "EE" means - it's been a while since I've dropped in here and must have forgotten that one, but I'm guessing your referring to an appearance of a sharp image that's actually just pixelation. I don't think that's what I'm seeing. The detail on skin and objects actually appears more detailed. I have the D1 set as follows:

Bravo D1: Output set to 852x480 via DVI
Aspect ratio: Native
contrast: 50
brightness: 50
Gamma: Film
Sharpness: Standard (although, I had to switch to a 480i source to gain access to this setting....not available to me on DVI)
RGB gains: 58
RGB offsets: 36

Now, I'm not sure what "EE" means - it's been a while since I've dropped in here and must have forgotten that one, but I'm guessing your referring to an appearance of a sharp image that's actually just pixelation. I don't think that's what I'm seeing. The detail on skin and objects actually appears more detailed. I have the D1 set as follows:

Bravo D1: Output set to 852x480 via DVI
Aspect ratio: Native
contrast: 50
brightness: 50
Gamma: Film
Sharpness: Standard (although, I had to switch to a 480i source to gain access to this setting....not available to me on DVI)
RGB gains: 58
RGB offsets: 36

You need to look at the first page of this thread and follow the instructions to create a custom resolution. The output you are set to has a refresh rate of 60hz the custom settings will improve your image and you can select either a 48 or 72hz refresh rate. Your offsets should also be set to 28.5 not 36. you can get to 28.5 by setting it at 29 and pushing the down button one more time. the number won't change but you will be set to 28.5. Try that and see what you think.

By the way EE = Edge enhancement

It certainly helps to have 20/20 vision and not be enamoured with EE. ;)
You know, it's a funny thing. We were all "taught" what a "good" image was supposed to look like, by how TVs were configured from the factory. It takes a concerted effort to un-learn this. Some people never do. Not that that's necessarily a bad thing -- sometimes ignorance is bliss. My wife can watch anything and listen to anything and enjoy it no matter how crappy the source is. And while she truly appreciates how good our setup looks, she could have been happy without it. And we'd have a lot more money for other things!! :eek:

-Dan

I am on 72 (shows 71) hz. As far as "EE." - if I can even see the pours in some dude's face because of EE, well, then I'd question what EE really is. I'm seeing more real detail. I will turn down the offsets and report back. Thank you for the responses!!!

I love consumer electronics - but sometimes I wonder which is more "ignorant"...not knowing how to perfect your pj and just enjoying it...or spending an hour tinkering with settings before every movie....it is a curse and a blessing, isn't it?

I love consumer electronics - but sometimes I wonder which is more "ignorant"...not knowing how to perfect your pj and just enjoying it...or spending an hour tinkering with settings before every movie....it is a curse and a blessing, isn't it?
AMEN! The worst is when you never noticed a problem before, and someone points it out to you. After that, all you can see is the problem! Ignorance is bliss.

-Dan

I love consumer electronics - but sometimes I wonder which is more "ignorant"...not knowing how to perfect your pj and just enjoying it...or spending an hour tinkering with settings before every movie....it is a curse and a blessing, isn't it?


as far as displays go, be thankful you own an infocus. ;)

it could be much much worse. you could own a pansonic for instance. ;)

Sharpness: Standard (although, I had to switch to a 480i source to gain access to this setting....not available to me on DVI)

You listed this in your settings, BUUUUUUUUUTTTT...you said the following, just a few posts back :eek: :

Compared to the 642 with component connections & the sharpness on the projector maxed out, I'm not impressed at all.

So, which is it??? :confused:

There should never, ever be any reason to adjust the sharpness of the 4805. EVER.

I was under the impression that dvi was better than using component

I bought the dvi cable some time ago , and I was just messing around with the projector and using my oppo dvd player , I get a much better colored and sharper picture using the regular component than the dvi

I just never bothered to compare the 2 because I was told that the dvi gives better picture

everything is set to thx contrast brightness

but I like the component alot better, so , back in the close the dvi cable goes lol

What Oppo are you using?

Continuing the drama since infocus said it would be over $1000 to fix my 4805.
Isn't that a rip! :mad:


I have disassembled the projector and verified that the fan by the lamp is not turning. It keeps cycling and trying to start but thats all. I continued to disassemble the pj and removed the fan. With the fan on the bench, it starts fine and runs down to at least 6Vdc.

If anyone has questions about disassembly, pm me. It really isn't that bad.

Has anyone determined what is failing on the controller board? I have read some posts that say that the drive drops to 2.8Vdc. I haven't measured the voltage from the controller board since it is so messy to get to.

Does anyone have any technical info on the fan driver circuit. If I don't get any, I will probably just drive it with 12Vdc all the time along with the two other fans that I am putting into a hushbox.

You listed this in your settings, BUUUUUUUUUTTTT...you said the following, just a few posts back :eek: :



So, which is it??? :confused:

There should never, ever be any reason to adjust the sharpness of the 4805. EVER.


Sorry - I did a cut & paste from the settings I used. I had sharpness maxed with component cables & the 642. Details were much clearer...I'm talking about freckles, pores, etc.

When I swtiched over a D1 and DVI, the sharpness setting obviously became unavailable. The entire image is less sharp...details decrease.

I'm not as in to the tech side of PJs, but I got the impresson that having the sharpness in the middle was like digital blur...at least after seeing the improved image after increasing it with component cables.

Sorry - I did a cut & paste from the settings I used. I had sharpness maxed with component cables & the 642. Details were much clearer...I'm talking about freckles, pores, etc.

When I swtiched over a D1 and DVI, the sharpness setting obviously became unavailable. The entire image is less sharp...details decrease.

I'm not as in to the tech side of PJs, but I got the impresson that having the sharpness in the middle was like digital blur...at least after seeing the improved image after increasing it with component cables.

As I said before, you've become accustomed to an equivalent of artificial EE (Edge Enhancement). "Standard" sharpness on the 4805 is always technically correct and is not a digital blur, it is the setting that best represents films the way the director intended them to be seen and portrays things as they are in real life. "Sharpest" is technically incorrect, and though it is called EE, that doesn't mean that only edges are enhanced. Everything is artificially enhanced by using EE. EE is sort of like a bad version of optical zoom on a camera, i.e., digital zoom, which, imo, should never, ever be used.

Another lateral comparative to this would be to turn your color up 10 notches to 60 and become assimilated to viewing that setting. Man, is that sky blue! Now walk out the door and look up. Real-world sky is azure, not that blue at all. Crank up the contrast 10 notches to 60. Man, are those clouds white! Now walk out the door and look up. Real-world clouds are shades of greys and eggshell and whites, not just whites only. Yet another comparative is that many people start out using the "computer" gamma, believing they see better details and contrast, but what they are really seeing are crushed blacks and overblown whites.

I say all this, as I made these mistakes myself upon first getting the 4805. Watching the unit with the correct settings does take some time to get used to, since many of us think the picture on those plasma TVs at BB and CC look great. In reality, they are punched-up so far, they're ridiculously inaccurate.

That said, you're free to watch what you want, with whatever settings you choose, on whatever equipment you pick, with whatever hookups you opt for. Whatever makes you happy, go for it...just realize it's not technically correct and that you'll be extremely hard-pressed to find anyone here at AVS that would ever concur that a Philips 642 could ever put out a better image than the D1.

/\ Well said. ;)

OK I am back in the SP4805 club - it has been boxed for 6mo after I got a new lamp while I figured out what to do with it since used prices have fallen nearly to that of the lamp!. Then I took a look at the dented SilverStar - and mentally while I am depreciating all this worthless inventory I had a stroke of genius. Says I - I bet that SilverStar will hang on top of the TV armoire in the bedroom and I bet I can screw the PJ mount in between the windows on the other wall - with a little tilt on both sides it worked. So now I have a 60" SD plasmer at the foot of the bed! Damn I have it almost as good as Baltar last nite with Xena and Cylon#6. Gotta love worthless inventory!

Hi

I just installed a SP4805 and I have purple & green diaganol lines - does anyone know what they are? Is it ruining my lamp - i only have four hours on it - should I even turn it on until I get it fixed? Does anyone know if I can replace the power cord as I read that if I plug into the same outlet it will work. But I would need a longer cord and I don't know where you can buy electrical cords. Should I unplug my old TV first? I think maybe the bad signal in the old TV is getting onto my movie screen since I put it right in front of my TV.

Somebody help a noob please my picture seems like it should be better. I tried to adjust the color in the menu but it only had green adjustment - and I don't see purple. Does red and blue make purple -and since they purple is offset from the green - do I use the offset control on those to counteract the green. I am so confused someone help!!

Here I will draw a ASCII picture so you can see what I mean

:D :( :D :( :D :( :D :( :D

Watching the unit with the correct settings does take some time to get used toThe same can be said for the correct settings on your 5.1 system. No matter how much you might think you prefer it, inaccurate surround and distorted bass is just that, inaccurate and distorted.

Hi

I just installed a SP4805 and I have purple & green diaganol lines - does anyone know what they are? Is it ruining my lamp - i only have four hours on it - should I even turn it on until I get it fixed? Does anyone know if I can replace the power cord as I read that if I plug into the same outlet it will work. But I would need a longer cord and I don't know where you can buy electrical cords. Should I unplug my old TV first? I think maybe the bad signal in the old TV is getting onto my movie screen since I put it right in front of my TV.

Somebody help a noob please my picture seems like it should be better. I tried to adjust the color in the menu but it only had green adjustment - and I don't see purple. Does red and blue make purple -and since they purple is offset from the green - do I use the offset control on those to counteract the green. I am so confused someone help!!

Here I will draw a ASCII picture so you can see what I mean

:D :( :D :( :D :( :D :( :D
If you use one of these magically wonderful AFDB devices it will cure all that ails you and the WAF will be extraordinarily high as well:

http://zapatopi.net/afdb/

As I said before, you've become accustomed to an equivalent of artificial EE (Edge Enhancement). "Standard" sharpness on the 4805 is always technically correct and is not a digital blur, it is the setting that best represents films the way the director intended them to be seen and portrays things as they are in real life. "Sharpest" is technically incorrect, and though it is called EE, that doesn't mean that only edges are enhanced. Everything is artificially enhanced by using EE. EE is sort of like a bad version of optical zoom on a camera, i.e., digital zoom, which, imo, should never, ever be used.. . . .

Thank you for the reply. Based on what you're saying, something else must be off because nature surely looks sharper than what I'm seeing now...and I can't imagine directors wanting their images blurry or distributors wanting their text and logos blurred. This isn't just a DP's choice of what to focus on, it's overall. So, maybe it was the color gains. I adjusted them to the right #s, but so far only have watched a vey compressed video. I'll check it out more tonight.

I appreciate the time you put into that reply!

OK I am back in the SP4805 club...now I have a 60" SD plasmer at the foot of the bed!

Welcome back, kras! My 4805 is at the foot of the bed as well, 92" screen. :)

Thank you for the reply. Based on what you're saying, something else must be off because nature surely looks sharper than what I'm seeing now...

Little light bulb over my head...have you done a color wheel cleaning?

http://community.webshots.com/user/nyprimus4

106", but my little sister was playing with the brightness before I took the pics.


When it auto images on the bottom left when the projector changes resolution it says 1080p. I'll take comparison pics with 1080p, 1080i, 720p, and 480p now that the contrast and brightness is back.

Welcome back, kras! My 4805 is at the foot of the bed as well, 92" screen. :)

This should keep this SP4805 going into a third official thread - for the BedRoom Theater!!!

Damn Kras, that's cool!

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=68281

Kras! Those slippers have GOT to go! ;)

All right...I took a quickie shot (with a crap camera, hence the poor PQ, plus, you can't see my little Clerks inaction figures ;) ) of my bedroom 4805...

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n172/spyderswebphotos/bedroom4805.jpg

Excuse all the exposed cables...new receiver comes tomorrow! :)

This should keep this SP4805 going into a third official thread - for the BedRoom Theater!!!

welcome back, kras! Nice bedroom theater...nice slippers, too!!! :D :D

Little light bulb over my head...have you done a color wheel cleaning?

No, I haven't! I didn't think I was due yet - about 500 hrs, I believe...but it's been mounted for about a year now. I noticed the other day that the projector's fan seemed to be running very quietly when the unit was powered off (soft power) the day after use...nowhere near the level of when you first shut-down with the remote...but I thought it was odd.

I need to talk to DaLite - my bet is they could apply their fastfold biz screen technology to fit into the standard TV armoire so you can close the doors. Open the doors and you got the 6' screen that pops out and latches into place. Think of the untapped market of bedroom TV armoires waiting to get the big screen treatment! Why I could retire on this genius idea and lay in bed all day and play PS2 :D :D

P.S. come on doesn't everyones wife buy those slippers for XMAS stocking stuffers?

lol, i got mine early. ;)

a nice pair of men's ugs. they're comfy. :)

Adamesq,

Another light bulb. Have you adjusted the focus using binoculars, ala Cavu. I tried that on mine, and it made a big difference.

Hi i'm using some componnent cables from my hd expressvu receiver to my projector and was wondering if i would get a better picture if i were to use hdmi to m1.

My satelite hd expressvu has a hdmi output.

Is it worth investing the money on the digital cables.Will there be a difference and has anybody used monoprice cables.

Thanks

Cool....I just connected my 360 to the 4805 via component and the 4805 will properly display 1080p via component.

duo man, don't know about your expressvu receiver, but all things being equal, the DVI input edges ouy the component input by just a nose. The "all things being equal" is the catch though, not too many sources process as well as the 4805 because of the Faroudja technology built in. My OPPO DVD player has Faroudja as well, so I use DVI.

has anybody used monoprice cables.They are just about the only supplier we all agree on!! Monoprice rocks!

yea monoprice are really good , i buy all my cables from them, prices sure beat anything in my neck of the woods and shipping is really quick........

p.s. i know it sounds like a e-bay ad but its true

last time i used my projector i powered down with the remote....then turned it off after cooling down....now it seems stuck in powered down mode...when i turn the projector on using the power switch..all I get is a steady green lite and the fan comes on..but the lamp does not lite up..and the projector does not go through what the normal start up would be..I took the lamp out to try it on a friends sp 4805 and it works fine..only has about 250 worth of hours on it..so it's not the lamp..any ideas what is wrong and how to correct issue....infocus want 300 bucks for service..and my local repair guy wants 500....any help great appreciated

duo man, don't know about your expressvu receiver, but all things being equal, the DVI input edges ouy the component input by just a nose. The "all things being equal" is the catch though, not too many sources process as well as the 4805 because of the Faroudja technology built in. My OPPO DVD player has Faroudja as well, so I use DVI.
Thanks for the reply,so if i understand properly when i use the dvi i'll be using the processor in my expressvu satalite receiver to do all the work.

How likely is it that it can do a better job then the faroudja.

They are just about the only supplier we all agree on!! Monoprice rocks!
Thanks for thr reply,this forum has helped me out so much in saving money, and ending up with a great system.

Thanks

WANTED 4805 With A blown Bulb


I just sold my 4805 to a friend with a new bulb installed.I kept the Older bulb Thinking it would fit my new in72 for a spare then learned it was not interchangeable.
My goal is to build a LOW budget 4805 Projector for travel and viewing Sunday football .

Now The IN72 can be had for $499 shipped so I figured a lot of people are not willing invest in a $300 bulb on the older 4805 so if you are going to get rid of the bulbless 4805 please drop me a line.
I Don't wish to fix any units with dead pixels ,color ,Wheels or burnt housings. Just looking for a unit needing a bulb for a reasonable price.
Thanks.

Murph

WANTED 4805 With A blown Bulb


I just sold my 4805 to a friend with a new bulb installed.I kept the Older bulb Thinking it would fit my new in72 for a spare then learned it was not interchangeable.
My goal is to build a LOW budget 4805 Projector for travel and viewing Sunday football .

Now The IN72 can be had for $499 shipped so I figured a lot of people are not willing invest in a $300 bulb on the older 4805 so if you are going to get rid of the bulbless 4805 please drop me a line.
I Don't wish to fix any units with dead pixels ,color ,Wheels or burnt housings. Just looking for a unit needing a bulb for a reasonable price.
Thanks.

Murph

Deja vu! Haven't I read this post before? ;) Actually, there's one on the bay for $199 BiN (supposedly good working condition, just bulbless). I'd looked, but couldn't remember where you put your first post looking for one, so it's a good thing it came up again. Good luck.

Deja vu! Haven't I read this post before? ;) Actually, there's one on the bay for $199 BiN (supposedly good working condition, just bulbless). I'd looked, but couldn't remember where you put your first post looking for one, so it's a good thing it came up again. Good luck.


Thanks spyder.


Hay I have seen a lot of them on ebay ,,,,,,,

" Buy this and you Only need to buy A $350 bulb TO complete a $400 used unit " .LOL :)

Why would anyone do this when you can get a better unit NEW for under $500.(in72 )

I have a older bulb I would like to put to use ( garage football viewing ) and my spending limit for a good used unit with a blown bulb is $100 I think that's pretty fare.


I'm in no hurry And it seems all the 4805's are starting to show their age .


Cheer

Murph

WANTED 4805 With A blown Bulb

Now The IN72 can be had for $499 shipped

Murph


Where have you seen the IN72 at this price? PM me!

My 4805 is starting to make alot more noise. I pulled the lamp out and cleaned the lamp housing screens but the fan is still making alot of noise. First it was making a pulsing sound then it was just very loud. I checked it was in low power mode. I switched it to high power and it did not get any louder. Also how hot is the projector casing supposed to get because it was very hot to the touch after being on for only a few minutes.

My 4805 is starting to make alot more noise. I pulled the lamp out and cleaned the lamp housing screens but the fan is still making alot of noise. First it was making a pulsing sound then it was just very loud. I checked it was in low power mode. I switched it to high power and it did not get any louder. Also how hot is the projector casing supposed to get because it was very hot to the touch after being on for only a few minutes.


They get warm but not hot to the touch .( is it under warrantee ) if so send it in .

Loud noise sounds like the color wheel .

You could try and clean the color wheel . there have been mixed results regarding cleaning the wheel and the noise going away .Also try running it in high mode for a while and see if it clears up.

good luck.

Originally Posted by MurphyAgain
WANTED 4805 With A blown Bulb

Now The IN72 can be had for $499 shipped

Murph




Where have you seen the IN72 at this price? PM me!

you get a free 76inch screen as well

Pm sent

cheers

They get warm but not hot to the touch .( is it under warrantee ) if so send it in .

Loud noise sounds like the color wheel .

You could try and clean the color wheel . there have been mixed results regarding cleaning the wheel and the noise going away .Also try running it in high mode for a while and see if it clears up.

good luck.

It is still under warranty so I am prob. gonna send it in. I noticed that when it was in standby mode(powered down but on/off switch is on)it was still making the pulsing noise. It was def. hot to the touch not warm.

Murphy please PM me as well. I may be interested in a second PJ and am debating about which one. I have 3 screens so I don't need another free one but I could "bay" it or give it away.

Murphy, please PM me too. I'm thinking about a second unit for the bedroom.

Thanks for the info guys. I like getting my info "Straight from the Lion" as they say. Why they say that I don't know though.....Prices are dropping like a rock on PJ's!

Pm's are all sent I'm sure you guys got em ..

don't get me wrong I loved my 4805 (hell i'm still searchin for a cheapy with a blown bulb ) but the IN72 is " Frekin GREAT. "

The IN72 in my own opinion Is a great improvement over the 4805 and at less then HALF THE PRICE.

I am JUST BUYING time until HD, blueray, and the over priced 1080p PJS become blue-collar affordable.


Murphy

I'm sure once the bulb goes on my sp4805 I will probably upgrade


does the IN72 use the same mount as the SP4805?


Also click on my name and go to my photo gallery for a look at my home theater!
would love to know what you folks think of it.

Bill -

Where can I find it at this price>

Hi All

If I want to use 720p with my Sp4805. Can I use component for that ? Or do I have to use the DVI input ?

I'm sure once the bulb goes on my sp4805 I will probably upgrade


does the IN72 use the same mount as the SP4805?


Also click on my name and go to my photo gallery for a look at my home theater!
would love to know what you folks think of it.

Bill -


Andrew Pm sent .


Bill i changed from the 4805 to the IN72 and the mounts are not the same .
They have VERY close ( throw ect ect ) but the mounting holes are diffrent.
take a look at the (brass holes) on each unit side by side.

http://img470.imageshack.us/img470/6894/dcp0001nw9.jpg
http://img379.imageshack.us/img379/3647/dcp00051024x768ki4.jpg

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=660701&page=54&pp=30

Nice job on your theater as well :)
Cheers

Where can I find it at this price>


i,d be interested in this also, i can,t find anything like that price on e-bay :confused:

i,d be interested in this also, i can,t find anything like that price on e-bay :confused:


Pm sent .

EBAY now a-days is for SUCKERS.

If you know what your looking for you can usually find it cheaper from a more reputable seller right from Google or froogle .

Just find the part number and Google then froogle it .

I do use EBay for used items ( NEVER NEW ) they are usually stolen or broken or over priced lately allot of people selling New items are lazy people cashing in on EBAYS past reputation of finding a good deal ( returned customers ) and hoping you cant navigate the web to locating a better deal .And if you do find a good deal on your new stolen item on ebay you then have to pay inflated shipping prices. ( that's because your forcing the fat bastard to get off his lazy ass to ship the over priced item ) :rolleyes:

EBay is as good as dead if your a froogle shopper looking for newer items .

Now this isnt true all the time but it seems to be the norm latley. :)


cheer

Murphy

Hi All

If I want to use 720p with my Sp4805. Can I use component for that ? Or do I have to use the DVI input ?

You can use either component or DVI.

At what point (hours-wise) do you all typically end up removing your ND2 filters, if you use one? It's hard to notice when brightness had decreased significantly, since it happens so gradually and I get used to it as it happens.

EBAY now a-days is for SUCKERS.

If you know what your looking for you can usually find it cheaper from a more reputable seller right from Google or froogle...I do use EBay for used items ( NEVER NEW ) they are usually stolen or broken or over priced...EBay is as good as dead if your a froogle shopper looking for newer items .


I wouldn't say that. I picked up a JVC HDD/DVD/VHS recorder for $33 shipped, a Sony STR-DE898 for $70 shipped, and a Toshiba HDD/DVD/Tivo unit for $40 shipped just this week alone...all from highly reputable sellers.

If you're looking for something like a lost remote, old car part, or anything else you can't find anywhere else, eBay is invaluable. That said, caution should be taken, but that goes for ANY purchase.

I have a question. tried the search but could not get an answer. 4805's deinterlacer is turned off on M1 connection. What happens when you feed 1080i through M1? Is it deinterlaced by 4805?

I wouldn't say that. I picked up a JVC HDD/DVD/VHS recorder for $33 shipped, a Sony STR-DE898 for $70 shipped, and a Toshiba HDD/DVD/Tivo unit for $40 shipped just this week alone...all from highly reputable sellers.


Wow spader ALL new ?

That is just unbelievable ,,, great job. :)

Ebay is nothing like it use to be .

For me anyways

Cheers

At what point (hours-wise) do you all typically end up removing your ND2 filters, if you use one? It's hard to notice when brightness had decreased significantly, since it happens so gradually and I get used to it as it happens.

Personally, I took mine off at around 1800 hours. I know some users have taken theirs off as early as 600 hours. YMMV.

I have a question. tried the search but could not get an answer. 4805's deinterlacer is turned off on M1 connection. What happens when you feed 1080i through M1? Is it deinterlaced by 4805?

No deinterlacing is done. It will just scale it down to it's native resolution of 854x480.

Murphy, please PM me too. I'm thinking about a second unit for the bedroom.


Please PM me three. I knew about the WOOT deal... but was unaware of a running offer.


-W (will prolly blow my 4805 bulb this year)

Personally, I took mine off at around 1800 hours. I know some users have taken theirs off as early as 600 hours. YMMV.

I'm pushing 1800 soon... and getting ready to pull it too.

-W (still looks great though)

andrew12159, curtis104, penticton102, Woodfiend

I just PM'd you with a place that is a bit cheaper ($429 after rebate).


Good luck!

No deinterlacing is done. It will just scale it down to it's native resolution of 854x480.

To continue this... I'm feeding my 4805 with 848x480 per the Jason settings via the DVI/M1 cable. (perfect picture)

When I change my PC desktop over to 1024x768... the 4805 scales it... but "gets upset" in that the picture has red lines and blinking dots etc all over it. And I have to switch back.... is this "normal"??

-W

andrew12159, curtis104, penticton102, Woodfiend

I just PM'd you with a place that is a bit cheaper ($429 after rebate).


Good luck!

Please get me too!

-W

To continue this... I'm feeding my 4805 with 848x480 per the Jason settings via the DVI/M1 cable. (perfect picture)

When I change my PC desktop over to 1024x768... the 4805 scales it... but "gets upset" in that the picture has red lines and blinking dots etc all over it. And I have to switch back.... is this "normal"??

-W

Doesn't sound normal. I've done 1024x768 before and it just shows a normal desktop (though stretched depending on viewing mode). Does auto-image help at all?

Please include me on the IN72 information for $499/$429. I saw the deal for $599 on the Infocus site including the 96" screen but don't need the screen.

Thanks guys!

Doesn't sound normal. I've done 1024x768 before and it just shows a normal desktop (though stretched depending on viewing mode). Does auto-image help at all?


I'm not sure.... I'll have to try it when I get home from Thanksgiving vacation. Also.. I'm still running the original firmware.. Is that relevant?

-W

I'm not sure.... I'll have to try it when I get home from Thanksgiving vacation. Also.. I'm still running the original firmware.. Is that relevant?

-W

Maybe. With the original firmware, the 4805 doesn't always resync correctly when changing resolutions, so you have to press the auto-image button on the remote when you do change resolutions. The newer firmwares automatically resyncs.

andrew12159, curtis104, penticton102, Woodfiend

I just PM'd you with a place that is a bit cheaper ($429 after rebate).


Good luck!


jjsaustin $449 ??


UNBELIEVABLE . :D


Cheers

Personally, I took mine off at around 1800 hours. I know some users have taken theirs off as early as 600 hours. YMMV.
I have took mine off @950 hours. I could see easily see the difference in brightness with and without the filter on my 76" Infocus screen. PJ is on for only 2 hours a day. YMMV.

Hello guys,

I'm pretty happy with my 4805 (500 bulb/hours in 1 year), but I'm having problems, it started to make a noise like some spinning part is touching something else, is specially noticeable when I disconnect the AC/plug and then reconnect after hours or couple days, the second issue is that I did notice a very soft horizontal bar going from the bottom of the screen the to top, in the faces close ups it changes the tone of the skin from normal to a too much (yellow/green) and keeps going on.
I'm feeding the projector thru component from a Samsung Upconvert DVDPlayer HD841, I feed 1080i always.
The Projo is still under warranty so I really appreciate your advice ...

Thanks !!

Look a the picture
( football game ) Is it yellow like this .?

http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/2078/yellowri7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

If so you have A light tube problem . I have yet to hear of a fix.

it will get worst. :(
And the sound your describing is the color wheel Squeal .( bearings ) Try using the unit on high mode for a while that might do the trick .Other have has success with a combination blowing sucking cleaning .You will have to do a search on both issues.


Cheers


Murph :)

Hello guys,

I'm pretty happy with my 4805 (500 bulb/hours in 1 year), but I'm having problems, it started to make a noise like some spinning part is touching something else, is specially noticeable when I disconnect the AC/plug and then reconnect after hours or couple days, the second issue is that I did notice a very soft horizontal bar going from the bottom of the screen the to top, in the faces close ups it changes the tone of the skin from normal to a too much (yellow/green) and keeps going on.
I'm feeding the projector thru component from a Samsung Upconvert DVDPlayer HD841, I feed 1080i always.
The Projo is still under warranty so I really appreciate your advice ...

Thanks !!

Is a single stationary bar or does the bar move up the screen starting at the bottom and moving to the top if so it may be a ground loop problem. if so try using a 3-2 plug adapter to remove the ground and see if it clears up. If your issue looks like Murphs picture you light tube is failing and you will need to send it in for service before the warranty is up.

I hope it is just the ground loop issue

Good Luck

Homer

Welcome to the forum Borderboy. If it's the light tube, InFocus will have to replace the light engine. The Samsung players are NOTORIOUS for pq problems. Send the 4805 the 480i signal and let the fantastic Faroudja processor in the 4805 do its work. You may need to do some calibrating before you get the picture that we've all raved about for more than two years now. You may want to consider the OPPO 971H DVD player. It kills most everything else available, had great customer service/firmware upgrades and is inexpensive.

Wow I really appreciate your help !

Thank you all for your answers, I knew about the ground loop, but I never though that the issue could change colors in the screen.
I will try your suggestions later today, I saw the picture you posted and lucky me is nothing like that. I will try to take a picture with a digicam and post it as reference (Just I hope that the level of detail allow me to show the problem).

Thanks and talk you later !

I would like to get in on this, too. Please PM me. Thanks.

WARNING

The site offering the IN72 for $429 after rebate is a SCAM

A quick Google search will reveal the truth.

the best I could find from a authorized Infocus dealer was $499 after rebate ( with A free screen )

I never did find one for $449.
Could you share your findings with the rest of the board so we can verify then black list the seller.

Cheers.

WARNING

The site offering the IN72 for $429 after rebate is a SCAM

A quick Google search will reveal the truth.

Gartseff PM'd me with the above concern. I'm glad he posted it here so others can see and he can respond if there are questions. For the record, I have never ordered from this company. My friend ordered one over the web a few days ago. I am not advocating them (nor condemming them). I stated this place may be a bit cheaper, but you should check out any company before you buy and weigh the tradeoffs yourself.

Good luck!


My response to Gartseff is below.

=====================================================
Gartseff,

What is their scam? If you have some info, please post it. Probably 10 people have asked for where the low price was from.

As with any low price seller, there are risks and people trade off the risks for the savings. Sometimes they don't really have it in stock, other times they may try to sell you additional items. I had previously purchased my IN72 through Woot (or I may have ordered it from Best Price Cameras or similar). I know some people do not like Woot either, but it did not stop me from buying there.

My friend ordered one from there a few days ago and did not report any problems.

I'm not sure when he is supposed to receive it. I will call him though to get more info.

WARNING

The site offering the IN72 for $429 after rebate is a SCAM

A quick Google search will reveal the truth.BEWARE of any NYC camera/photo store offering a price that seems too good to be true.

I'm not tarring all of them, but there have been too many instances of consumer fraud to ignore. Customer satisfaction or complaints can be researched easily.

Ask yourself, is saving $100 worth the risk of enduring the nightmare of shoddy merchandise and no customer support? Sometimes it really is worth it to pay a bit more and patronize authorized resellers, AVS sponsors or the manufacturer directly. Have you ever noticed the correlation between the amount of problems some people have and the great "deals" those same people got on their 4805's?

Originally Posted by Gartseff
WARNING

The site offering the IN72 for $429 after rebate is a SCAM

A quick Google search will reveal the truth.


Well i just got off the phone with BB regarding the IN72 FOR.
$429


They have non is stock ( anywhere and do NOT see any coming in the future ).
so if you did get one for this price consider yourself lucky and please read the rebate information under a a microscope.

If we are insinuating BB had the scam for $429 IN72 i think the word scam is a bit harsh as i feel it is great marketing by BB to sacrifice a limited amount of a great product to the well observant ( or luck ) individual knowing and looking out for what they wanted.


cheers :)


cheers

No deinterlacing is done. It will just scale it down to it's native resolution of 854x480.

So can we expect jagged lines? Has anyone seen this? I am planning to buy PS3 and hook up with 4805. PS3 outputs only 1080i with HDMI for Blue-ray movies and not 720P. If jagged lines are to be seen, then it will be real bummer...

[QUOTE=Spongeworthy]BEWARE of any NYC camera/photo store offering a price that seems too good to be true.

QUOTE]


Thank you Sponge

BEWARE of any NYC camera/photo store offering a price that seems too good to be true.

I'm not tarring all of them, but there have been too many instances of consumer fraud to ignore. Customer satisfaction or complaints can be researched easily.

Ask yourself, is saving $100 worth the risk of enduring the nightmare of shoddy merchandise and no customer support? Sometimes it really is worth it to pay a bit more and patronize authorized resellers, AVS sponsors or the manufacturer directly. Have you ever noticed the correlation between the amount of problems some people have and the great "deals" those same people got on their 4805's?

I agree with you completely. I have only bought from NYC companies a few times. Most of the time I got the item, although I may had to listen to them try to hard sell me on over priced accessories (I can't blame them for trying, the same thing happens if you ever buy anything off of the TV infomercials). Other times, I felt they crossed the line, and I did not place my order. To me a $100 isn't that much, but others it may be more significant and they may be willing to put up with the sales pitch for the savings.

BTW: I think the price delta is only $70 (even less!)

[QUOTE=MurphyAgain][QUOTE=Spongeworthy]BEWARE of any NYC camera/photo store offering a price that seems too good to be true.

QUOTE]


I think sgibson bought one for $429 at a local store on sale, so the price isn't too good to be true, but it goes without saying... there are a lot of scammer out there.

:)

Well i just got off the phone with BB regarding the IN72 FOR.
$429


They have non is stock ( anywhere and do NOT see any coming in the future ).
so if you did get one for this price consider yourself lucky and please read the rebate information under a a microscope.

If we are insinuating BB had the scam for $429 IN72 i think the word scam is a bit harsh as i feel it is great marketing by BB to sacrifice a limited amount of a great product to the well observant ( or luck ) individual knowing and looking out for what they wanted.


cheers :)


cheers

Not BB, the best camera site place... they have a horrible reputation... but please PM the BB info

Look a the picture
( football game ) Is it yellow like this .?

http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/2078/yellowri7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

If so you have A light tube problem . I have yet to hear of a fix.

Then you haven't been paying attention. ;) This will be the 5th time I've posted this here:

http://www.willswebdesign.com/sp4805/sp4805.htm

AAAAAARRRRRGHHHH!!! :mad:

Is anyone even reading the posts anymore? :confused:
Is anyone doing any research at all??? :mad:

BB (in store OR online) purchases DO NOT qualify for the rebate. READ THE FINE PRINT!!!

https://www.infocusrebates.com/start/claimform.php?ppromoid=1831

AAAAAARRRRRGHHHH!!! :mad:

Is anyone even reading the posts anymore? :confused:
Is anyone doing any research at all??? :mad:

BB (in store OR online) purchases DO NOT qualify for the rebate. READ THE FINE PRINT!!!

https://www.infocusrebates.com/start/claimform.php?ppromoid=1831

I was not prepared to break the bad news to them... but was also curious as to whether BestBuy had their own rebate.


Think TigerDirect is a reputable enough shop to buy from? Know of any that use Google Checkout?

Then you haven't been paying attention. This will be the 5th time I've posted this here:

Spyder I'm a little lost as to step two regarding the Tube fix . on this web page

With the whatch uma call it .

But i do see some wonderful pictures of a 4805 all apart.

Thanks

AAAAAARRRRRGHHHH!!! :mad:

Is anyone even reading the posts anymore? :confused:
Is anyone doing any research at all??? :mad:

BB (in store OR online) purchases DO NOT qualify for the rebate. READ THE FINE PRINT!!!

https://www.infocusrebates.com/start/claimform.php?ppromoid=1831


D*mn I read everything but the bottom line. My stupid mistake! I didn't get the best deal after all. Thanks for the heads-up spyder696969, apologies to all.
Guess it's time to go back to lurking.
(sheepish grin)
sgibson

AAAAAARRRRRGHHHH!!! :mad:

Is anyone even reading the posts anymore? :confused:
Is anyone doing any research at all??? :mad:

BB (in store OR online) purchases DO NOT qualify for the rebate. READ THE FINE PRINT!!!

https://www.infocusrebates.com/start/claimform.php?ppromoid=1831

Hmmmm. CircuitCity, too. Excluding previously authorized resellers from the rebate, dumping inventory directly to consumers. I guess InFocus really is getting out of HT, and fast.

Is this cause for concern for current InFocus owners? :confused:

Looking for the lowest price for the IN72 projectors? Use NexTag search engine.....several sites has stock and after the rebate final cost is under 500 plus shipping. Some are very reputable.
Try to buy out of state and save on tax if you can.......also stay away from sites in NY. Just my 2 cents worth. I have a 4805 I picked up from Woot......best deal I ever made!!

So can we expect jagged lines? Has anyone seen this? I am planning to buy PS3 and hook up with 4805. PS3 outputs only 1080i with HDMI for Blue-ray movies and not 720P. If jagged lines are to be seen, then it will be real bummer...

I'm guessing you mean interlacing artifacts maybe? I think the 4805 sees 1080i as 1920x540p (which is still greater than the 4805's 854x480 resolution), so interlacing shouldn't be a problem. Blu-Ray (and anything HD including HD DVD and HDTV) will look awesome on the 4805, much much better than DVD.

Hmmmm. CircuitCity, too. Excluding previously authorized resellers from the rebate, dumping inventory directly to consumers. I guess InFocus really is getting out of HT, and fast.

Is this cause for concern for current InFocus owners? :confused:


I wish to heck they'd start dumping their IN76 inventory. :D

Hmmmm. CircuitCity, too. Excluding previously authorized resellers from the rebate, dumping inventory directly to consumers. I guess InFocus really is getting out of HT, and fast.

Is this cause for concern for current InFocus owners? :confused:

No - Infocus is having a firesale on the IN72 for obvious reasons - called cheap 720P competitors at its MSRP. You can try to convince people of the better brighter/contrastier D65 picture - but that takes up valuable retail sales time - when there is something easier to sell with a higher pixels per dollar value sitting next to it.

The higher end models will remain with specialty and custom dealers who are willing to explain why D65 is important and why a projector cost more when it is optomized for it and why resolution is not the most important spec.

Retailers that only know what their discount price is and nothing else probably will not qualify anymore. Certainly the scam stores with the ultra low price unless you want to buy it with a lamp, power cord, and colorwheel accessories are not worth having as dealers (and they never were)

And the chain stores not being on the rebate program is nothing new - they usually had their own inventory they carried with an instant rebate because of buying power direct with Infocus. It was the same deal a year ago with the SP4805 on BlackFriday.

Now if you just bought an SP4805 stock lamp for nearly the same price as a IN72 firesale - then heck that can be a cause for concern about buying on the wrong day. And if you excuse me I need to go burn in my new SP4805 lamp up to level 24 now in FFXII :D

Spyder I'm a little lost as to step two regarding the Tube fix . on this web page...

That's because that is the point at which the original poster pulled a "crazy Ivan" and never came back. (The OP is a Russian) ;)

From there, it should be pretty easy, as all one needs to do is rejoin the 4 mirrored pieces of the light tube back into place. Anything that would hold them together would work, you only need to make certain the you do not get glue into the inside of the 4 mirrored pieces. Personally, I would create a mold of something that fit the interior of the unit, a bracketing system for the exterior, and just go from there. Seems quite simple, but I've not had the misfortune of needing to perform the repair myself. Jeweler's tools would be of great assistance, no doubt.

D*mn I read everything but the bottom line. My stupid mistake! I didn't get the best deal after all. Thanks for the heads-up spyder696969, apologies to all.
Guess it's time to go back to lurking.
(sheepish grin)
sgibson

Sorry, sgibson, the post wasn't directed at you personally. :o I simply have had a very bad day and my patience has worn exceedingly thin on the misinformation being spread by many on the IN72 both here and on other threads. While AVS is an invaluable resource for a glut of information, I take the time to double-check nearly everything I ever read myself, particularly when it comes to money spent.

I recommend buying from a reputable dealer, get a deal if possible, and ALWAYS check a return policy, regarless of where you buy anything. Never take anyone's word for it. It's your mone, not theirs.

I'm very curious to know from anyone that bought one of these recently from "BigStripedCatExpress" or "UnworstPurchase" or anywhere else if they got the ones with the 1A fuses that have been causing havoc, or if they got the good 2A ones.

Does anybody has the optimal calibration settings for the 4805 for the wii over component cables? What about using the Photo Channel to put some pics and videos and calibrate it over the component output?

I wish to heck they'd start dumping their IN76 inventory. :D


Me Too... :D :D :D

Does anybody has the optimal calibration settings for the 4805 for the wii over component cables? What about using the Photo Channel to put some pics and videos and calibrate it over the component output?

Calibration is based on your setup and lighting conditions. I think for most situations the default settings of the 4805 are fine over component. The biggest factor will be the surface you are projecting the image on. Calibrate with your DVD player over component using DVE or Avia then your Wii should look as good as it can in your situation. Both DVE or Avia are readily available online for purchase.

Sorry, sgibson, the post wasn't directed at you personally. :o I simply have had a very bad day and my patience has worn exceedingly thin on the misinformation being spread by many on the IN72 both here and on other threads. While AVS is an invaluable resource for a glut of information, I take the time to double-check nearly everything I ever read myself, particularly when it comes to money spent.

I recommend buying from a reputable dealer, get a deal if possible, and ALWAYS check a return policy, regarless of where you buy anything. Never take anyone's word for it. It's your mone, not theirs.

I'm very curious to know from anyone that bought one of these recently from "BigStripedCatExpress" or "UnworstPurchase" or anywhere else if they got the ones with the 1A fuses that have been causing havoc, or if they got the good 2A ones.

Hey spyder696969, I had it coming. Guess it was a case of "couldn't see the forest for the trees". But thanks for sparing me any further embarrassment...i.e., getting ready to lick the envelope and mail 'er in.
By the way, how can I tell which fuse my IN72 has? (Hope this doesn't mean a "field strip")

Regards,
sgibson

sgibson

how can I tell which fuse my IN72 has?

You will have to Nicley call and ask Infocus ( 45 min waite ) and Give them your Serial numbers .
They will be able to tell you what amp fuse is inside your unit .

Does anybody has the optimal calibration settings for the 4805 for the wii over component cables? What about using the Photo Channel to put some pics and videos and calibrate it over the component output?

I only calibrated the brightness and the contrast using DVE. I'm using a Oppo 970 over component.

sgibson



You will have to Nicley call and ask Infocus ( 45 min waite ) and Give them your Serial numbers .
They will be able to tell you what amp fuse is inside your unit .


Thanks Murph,
I'll try an e-mail first, and keep my fingers crossed.
Regards,
sgibson

Sorry I haven't been on this thread in a while. I tried a search in this thread and unless I overlooked it somewhere (very possible) :rolleyes: I could not find an answer to this question..

What should be used for the gamma when using an xbox 360 via the vga cable?


Also would I be correct to presume that adjusting the gains and offsets would not apply to me as I'm using VGA from the 360 and not DVI?

As a side note its been said to leave the xbox @ its native rez. but for s#!ts and giggles I set it for 848x480 via the dash and at native it it doesnt recognize it but if you set it on 16x9 everything looks quite good even my widescreen movies play correctly(as best I can tell). Any reason not to leave it this way?

Hello, I'm hoping someone can give me some input on this. I want to convert my living room into a theater room. It seem ideal for the size screen I want, between 70-75 diagonal. Here is my dilemma. I'm stuck deciding whether to pick up a SP 4805 as my first projector because it's older technology and have been looking at the JVC 1080p HD-ILA sets to be slightly ahead of the curve. The reason I'm considering a 4805 is basically price (bang for buck) I can do the entire theater for less the the cost of just the JVC set alone now that the Infocus is available on eBay directly from the company and includes a screen. My main reason for input from people who own these projectors is that I've never seen one in use, but have seen the JVC's. I seem to have a good setup for a front projector. Ive got 10 feet from projector to screen and a vaulted ceiling with a viewing distance of between 8 and 10 feet. I would primarily be using this for DVD's and my HD cable (I know the 4805 is EDTV, but it will display our HD digitals). I'm sure it will see alot of hours, so bulb life was a concern, but both rear projo and front projo require bulb changes during their lifecycle. I've heard/read the standard lines about rainbow/sde/ and fan noise, but want to hear from some people who have owned one for awhile. Any input is greatly appreciated.

BenJF3, the 4805's great, but that might be too short a throw for you to watch without seeing the screen door effect. If you do go for the 4805 you won't be sorry, the color accuracy, out of the box calibration and general brightness while maintaining a good black level made it one of the most popular projectors ever. That said, why not get in on the IN72, InFocus is heavily dicounting it and you can think of it as the 4805 on steroids!

I will research the In72. I heard that model is quiet compared to the 4805, but doesn't have a Faroujda DCDi. The In72 is around $1000 right now (last time I checked). The main reason for the 4805 is that I can get one with a 76" screen for under $600 and that to me was a hell of a deal. It frees up room in the budget for a kick butt surround system. As far as SDE, I used the Infocus distance calculator and it computed that at 9 feet, it should give optimal picture on the 76" screen. I do know that I saw no SDE, SSE, or rainbows on the JVC models, but they are also much more expensive and a different technology altogether. Also, this will be my first Front Projector, so I feel like if the 4805 is as good as everyone says it is then I know I'll be blown away. Thank you for the input and if anyone else has anything, please let me know.

I will research the In72. I heard that model is quiet compared to the 4805, but doesn't have a Faroujda DCDi. The In72 is around $1000 right now (last time I checked). The main reason for the 4805 is that I can get one with a 76" screen for under $600 and that to me was a hell of a deal. It frees up room in the budget for a kick butt surround system. As far as SDE, I used the Infocus distance calculator and it computed that at 9 feet, it should give optimal picture on the 76" screen. I do know that I saw no SDE, SSE, or rainbows on the JVC models, but they are also much more expensive and a different technology altogether. Also, this will be my first Front Projector, so I feel like if the 4805 is as good as everyone says it is then I know I'll be blown away. Thank you for the input and if anyone else has anything, please let me know.

Think more $500

$575 for a refurb direct from Infocus with a 76" screen. I'm researching now about the In72 and SDE. Seems people aren't noticing rainbow as much as SDE, but they are also using screens the are 20" larger. It's my understanding that by adjusting screen size you can virtually eliminate SDE or reduce it significantly. I'm not against making a fixed mount screen with some sheet rock and paint either, but I'd like at least a 65" for that movie theater feel. Again, I appreciate the input!

WoW!!! I just pulled up the Infocus site and the In72 is only $599 with some deal for a free screen. Hmmmm, now I'm really interested and that is for a new, not a refurb. Question is the Pixelworks chip better than the Faroujda?

Pixelworks chip better than the Faroujda?



.The 4805 was a great machine .I don't know the first thing about the Pixel Chip For all I know it came out of a Pringles can .
But I do know what I saw when comparing the 4805 and In72 Side by side as a mini shoot out and the IN72 is the new sheriff in town.The IN72 was Brighter Quieter And a better picture overall
And If your looking for a 480p projector you WILL NOT find a better Bang for buck then this unit .


$499 Shipped


Murph

Ben, the Faroudja's irrelevant if you use HDMI or DVI/M1. The Faroudja processing kicks in with component inputs only as far as I know. I use a DVD player with Faroudja so I'm covered anyway (OPPO 971H), which by the way can be had for under $150 and is still the highest rated DVD player ( by Secrets of Home Theater) for pq. Get the IN72, it's an amazing deal at a true blow out price. My 4805 was $1400!

...I want to convert my living room into a theater room...

BenJF3,

One question you need to ask yourself is, "Can I make my living room dark?" If the answer is "no", then you'll be far better off with the JVC TV. While either the 4805 or IN72 are capable of producing a superb image, without at least some ambient light control, you will be at the mercy of the sun's cycle. Also, since this is your living room, I would assume you would desire to not have a bat cave 24/7, so you'll need adjustable controls, rather than permanent measures to block Icarus' bane. The 10-foot distance will throw that 70" image you want, and if your seating position is directly under the PJ, you should be able to live with the small SDE.

You are correct in considering the JVC 1080p HD-ILA sets to be nice units. That's pretty much the only conventional, commercially available TV that I could sway me right now (at least the only ones that don't have an astronomical price tag).

Lastly, don't waste any extra money on the $150+ Oppo when you can get a comparable unit for the meager and paltry sum of $45 in the Bravo D1. All but a few 4805/IN72 owners prefer the D1 over the 3X-priced Oppo: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=660701&page=1&pp=20

Yes I can control the lighting in that room. It is dark to begin with, because I have thick curtains and I can hang curtains on the opsite entryways as well, so I can do it. Also, where can I get the !n72 for $499 shipped as MurphyAgain stated? That's better than eBay prices right now. I looked into the Pixelworks chip and it looks like it is a better chip than the Faraoudja. Thanks a bunch for all the info.

Thanks a bunch for all the info.
PM sent.

For someone wanting an amazing home theatre on a budget - the SP4805 is a great inexpensive projector. I have had my SP4805 in my dedicated home theatre room since Sept 05. Many thanks to those who posted on AVS Forum to help me with my decision.

My SP4805 is hooked up to a receiver via a 30 foot component video cable. My SP4805 delivers a very nice 120 inch diagonal picture. For the screen - I used Screen Goo and framed it it out with black painted molding. I have Comcast HD service and the picture is just amazing. Family, friends and neighbors are in amazed by the picture.

My front row seats are around 13 feet from the screen - that's a bit close - where I notice the pixels - but others don't. I find the best view is from the back row - at 21 feet from screen. Check out leather-direct for seats. I joke that I got seats and the projector for what others pay for a big plasma.

For DVD watching, I think the SP4805 produces a picture as good as my local movie theatre. Regular TV and old VCR tapes are not bad either - although once you watch cable in HD - you won't want to go back. If it's a bad picture - like LSU's embarassing tigervision on espngame plan - it will just be a big bad picture. If you don't have HD service you are really missing out on what this projector can do. For sports - it's like being there.

For my next step - I want to try to hook up HD DVD or Blu Ray with my SP4805. I am really happy to see some people have had success with HD DVD and Blue Ray with the SP4805. I am looking forward to reading more comments on that. If I can get that great a picture from the HD cable, I am anxious to see what HD DVD or Blu Ray looks like on the SP4805 with my 120 inch diag screen.

Since my receiver does not have HDMI - I am thinking I can hook an HD DVD up directly to the SP4805 projector via HDMI with an HDMI/DVI adapter on the projector - and just run the optical audio to the receiver. If anyone has success with HD DVD or Blu Ray - let me know. (now if you can tell me which way Star Wars will go - HD or Blu Ray - that would help too)

I love my SP4805 - thanks again AVS forum members.

Aagin the 4805 was a great machine in its day but your goal should be to buy a new and inproved Pj And the IN72 is just that It will outshine the 4805 And it seems to be alot cheaper .

Aagin the 4805 was a great machine in its day but your goal should be to buy a new and inproved Pj And the IN72 is just that It will outshine the 4805 And it seems to be alot cheaper .
It's not cheaper if you already own the 4805! :p

-Dan

It's not cheaper if you already own the 4805! :p
LOL. That's what I was just thinking. :D

New maybe, but improved. Maybe somewhat, but not for me to sell my beloved 4805 with my spare bulb. :)

If I won't buy a new and improved native 720 (No real reason to, since the HD-DVD is a native 1080i/p player and I'm use to a 1:1 pixel mapped image, screw scaling), I'm not buying into a new and improved native 480 over my 4805, but then again, maybe as an addition. Anyway, I've heard that the HD is not as good as the Older model. I mean I read it on PJC regarding the Pixelworks chipset. I'm probably going to buy one just to check her out, but god is it ever fugly and BIG. I guess that's why they refer to it as the big IN7X series. J/K :D

What about input for watching regular TV. I have digital cable and will get the HD upgrade once I do this, but I'm wondering how this will look being as this will replace our primary viewing TV, an old JVC 32" It will get about 4-5 hours a day use. It will serve mainly for DVD's but I will have an HD DVR hooked up to watch my shows.

It'll look fantastic BenJF3, HD will look even better!

Well, you guys (plus the reviews I've read) are making it easy to decide. I was strongly leaning toward the JVC HD-ILA, but I'm really seriously considering the Infocus 72. Sorry to hijack this thread, BTW. I began by asking about the 4805. I mea the 61" JVC is awesome, but is also over $2000 and I'd still have to buy bulbs for it. Granted, they last twice as long and are almost half the price of the Infocus bulb. In fact, that cost factor is kind of what is keeping me on the fence. Is it better to spend the bulk up front, because the overall cost of ownership??? I guess I'm still concerned about fan noise seeing as how I want to ceiling mount it and it would be right above the couch about 4 feet above me. I figured I could make a screen around 65" to put a hamper on SDE. Someone mentioned that the Infocus 76" might be too big for 8-9 foot viewing distance. Man, I'm so torn between these two sets. The wife doesn't really care, she wants a nice theater setup period.

Ben, the IN72 is probably the projector bargain ever, stop sittin' and start watchin' bro!

BenJF3, buy the dang IN72 with Free 92" diag screen and table mount it and use it in your environment. Oh, and there is a no hassle return if you buy it from Infocus. (15 days, you pay freight) So you only have a few $$ to lose and you get to try it out. Can't beat that, just do it.

Most of us wish we could have got a deal - like the IN72. Sure is a beauty compared to the old SP4805. But then - nobody ever looks at my projector - all are in awe of what it produces. Make sure you get HD cable or HD satilite - you will be amazed at the picutre you get for the price.

What about input for watching regular TV. I have digital cable and will get the HD upgrade once I do this, but I'm wondering how this will look being as this will replace our primary viewing TV, an old JVC 32" It will get about 4-5 hours a day use. It will serve mainly for DVD's but I will have an HD DVR hooked up to watch my shows.

Ben - I have Comcast digital cable with HD service and built in DVR. They show IMAX movies - which I have DVR'd some so I can show friends. It's like having your own IMAX theatre. The normal digital cable is fine - but will be standard TV size - 4x3. I do watch quite a bit on the normal digital cable channels - but - once you see the HD picture out of your projector - you want more. If you like sports - it's like being there. For me there are plenty of HD channels to enjoy - and for me it is only $5 more per month. The HD cable channels fill the screen to max - and is fantastic. I DVR a lot of my favorite shows too - and kick myself when I accidently record the program on the non HD channel.

HD is great on the 4805. THe only reason I paid for cable was to have sports in HD and DiscoveryHD Theatre. SD is crap and hard to watch after seeing 100 inches of HD glory.

A 92" screen is going to be way too big for the room. By my measurements a 65" - 70" screen is the sweet spot. The room is very wide, but narrow across so the projector will only have around a 9 foot throw distance. I'm concerned about SDE. I may get the projector and beam it onto the wall to see how big I can go without seeing it. I don't need a gigantic 90 or 100" screen. I'm perfectly happy going to a 65" or little bigger. The other 65's I looked at Sony/Mitsu were around $3500 so as I've stated this is a budget issue for me. Plus the wife wants extra cash set aside for one of them old time popcorn machines with the wheels on it. She's as into this as I am!