The 2nd Official Infocus 4805 Thread. [Text View] - Page 26

homer1963

12-03-06, 12:47 PM

A 92" screen is going to be way too big for the room. By my measurements a 65" - 70" screen is the sweet spot. The room is very wide, but narrow across so the projector will only have around a 9 foot throw distance. I'm concerned about SDE. I may get the projector and beam it onto the wall to see how big I can go without seeing it. I don't need a gigantic 90 or 100" screen. I'm perfectly happy going to a 65" or little bigger. The other 65's I looked at Sony/Mitsu were around $3500 so as I've stated this is a budget issue for me. Plus the wife wants extra cash set aside for one of them old time popcorn machines with the wheels on it. She's as into this as I am!

Buy the In72 and you won't return it,at 76" or less you won't see much SDE if any. I have my 4805 mounted on the ceiling at 14' and it is right behind me about 4 feet above my head. all I can say is "AWESOME" my image is 100" and I see very little SDE and that is only on very bright scenes against a white background. My fan is alot louder than the IN72 and I dont really hear it with my 7.1 dolby surround system. it's just gets lost in the rumble. Also you really need a great DVD player to go along with it. I would reccomend the Bravo D1. You would love the image it provides, I will attach a link to the D1 thread at the bottom.

Go with the projector you will not be sorry!!!

Homer

Bravo D1 Thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=660701&page=61&pp=30)

spyder696969

12-03-06, 01:06 PM

...the projector will only have around a 9 foot throw distance. I'm concerned about SDE....The other 65's I looked at Sony/Mitsu were around $3500 so as I've stated this is a budget issue for me. Plus the wife wants extra cash set aside for one of them old time popcorn machines with the wheels on it. She's as into this as I am!
OK, Ben, this is simply a no-brainer here. Would you rather:

Spend around $3500 on just a TV like you planned... :(

OR...

For the same $3500, get; the IN72 + spare bulb + the Bravo D1 + the popcorn machine + another new bulb + new receiver+ a nice, new leather couch + quality screen of choice + beverage dispenser + HD service for a year + take the wife out to dinner + ??? :cool: :eek: :D

You get the idea. At around 8.5-9 foot seating distance and 65" screen size, you're not going to see SDE unless you really, really decide to look for it and convince your eyes you can see it. The FtL at that screen size and distance are going to resemble a plasma TV unit anyway. :)

BenJF3

12-03-06, 01:11 PM

Thanks alot guys! Others have mentioned the D1 to me. I have a JVC right now (older high end) It has 480p output, but not DVI. I may just use that via component video at 480p output so it will 1:1 map. I guess I'm convinced. The In72 it is! The closest runner up was the JVC 61" HD ILA for $2300 (sale price)

zaphod7501

12-03-06, 01:16 PM

JVC HD-ILA........ I'd still have to buy bulbs for it. Granted, they last twice as long As a servicer, my experience is that bulb failure on microdisplay RPTVs is generally random. The "hours" ratings are usually to a percentage of original brightness and have very little to do with "time until failure". I advise people that they will probably be replacing lamps "every couple of years" regardless of the rating. Only time will tell how accurate my suggestions are, however.

BenJF3

12-03-06, 01:24 PM

Yea, that is my biggest concern with the In72. Bulbs are $399!! :eek:
That just seems like they are ripping the consumer. It's like inkjet printers. Practically give away the unit, the charge $20-30 a cartridge for ink. I have no experience with Front Projectors, so I was extremely concerned over dropping $400 a year on bulbs. How about it, anyone here who owns the In72 have any say on lamp life? I know its rated 3000 hours, but I will be running it in low power. That is the wifes issue as well. I think I'll still go with it, but would like some "real world" reports on the lamp. Thanks again, you guys have no idea how helpful this info is! I'm glad I didn't have to go into this blindly.

Martin Butler

12-03-06, 04:45 PM

BenJF3, the expensive lamps are one of the main reasons many of us are jumping on the IN72 now. InFocus could have easily maintained the $1299. or $999. price points, and no one reasonably would have thought it overpriced. So buying a new unit is not much different than buying a new lamp, so why worry about the lamp now, even if you replace the lamp twice over a 5 year period, you'd still be ahead in a bang for the buck way. My 4805 had plenty of lamp power left after 2 1/3 years of use, if that helps assuage your fears a bit.

Gartseff

12-03-06, 04:51 PM

Does anyone have any experience buying from "Jaguar"Direct? (Hopefully my message is clear without breaking the TOS)

I'm worried they're like every other scam photo store online where the item is misadvertised and there are high-pressure sales calls after your purchase.

krasmuzik

12-03-06, 04:55 PM

LampPrice/LampHours = operating cost of the lamp.

It is cheaper than your cable bill.

Look at it this way - closeout pricing just means you can stock up on lamps for the same money as the IN72 was originally priced and get a much better value. $1299 with three free lamps is the same deal.

Printers should be bought under the same operating cost assumptions. An occasional hobbyist printer a cheapy inkjet is a better deal - whereas a biz needs a highvolume laser. Commodity pricing with reoccuring operating expenses allows the consumer to choose which model works best for them. We should have LED based projectors by the time you run thru your lamp stock.

myHTheaven

12-03-06, 06:39 PM

I am interested in hearing about results of hooking up an HD DVD player to the SP4805. What connections work best - HDMI/DVI - or Component. Trying to see if it's worth it - or if the Bravo D1 is the way to go for the SP4805.

Below is a related thread. Please join in if you have set up HD DVD with either HDMI/DVI or component.

SP4805-HD-DVD Does it get any better? (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=749203)

speed32219

12-03-06, 07:18 PM

I am interested in hearing about results of hooking up an HD DVD player to the SP4805. What connections work best - HDMI/DVI - or Component. Trying to see if it's worth it - or if the Bravo D1 is the way to go for the SP4805.

For SD DVD's, best bang for the $ is the Bravo D1, bar none.

But if you are buying HD DVD's or plan on renting them then the HD DVD players are the way to go. The colors and sharpness will be better. But, there just isn't enough HD material available yet for the HD players that I could find. And I rent new releases every week (love watching them on the Big screen with my 4805). So if you are like me and rent tons of movies (SD) then it is a no brainer, D1 wins hands down.

spyder696969

12-03-06, 07:40 PM

Yea, that is my biggest concern with the In72. Bulbs are $399!! :eek:
Ben,

Think of it this way...

+ $499 original price for IN72
+ $350 new lamp
+ $350 new lamp
+ $350 new lamp
+ $350 new lamp
+ $350 new lamp
__________________

= $2250 TOTAL

That's the PJ + 6 lamps (including the original) for the same price as the TV you found on sale!

6 lamps = 18,000-24,000+ hours! That, my friend, is one hell of a lot of viewing pleasure! :)

BenJF3

12-03-06, 07:54 PM

Yea, I'm sold on the In72. My concern was resolution. I didn't want old technology, which is why I started looking at 1080p sets. However, I have not heard anyone say a single bad thing about these projectors performance. Now, I have got to start planning the installation. It has to be ceiling mounted and all my devices will be under the screen location. I plan on leaving my credenza right where it is, removing the 32" JVC (moving it to my bedroom)and leaving the VCR, DVD player, STB/DVR and DVD racks there. I found a "Mega Cable" on eBay for like $80 that is 30ft and has component, composite and s-video all in one and connects component via the DVI connector on the projector. I'm thinking of using that instead of running all separate cables. I can hook everything through a Surround amp and output it to the In72. I think the wiring is going to be the hardest part of this whole thing, next will be setting the projector and mounting it/adjusting the image to fit. I will most likely post pictures when I finish, but it may be after the new year. I have two weeks off in January and that should be plenty of time to get the parts I need. Can anyone suggest a cheap source for hiding wires? I was thinking of that squared tubing you just mount to walls/ceilings and run the wires through it????

On a side note, I'm so glad I found these message boards. It really helps with idea sharing and vendors (getting a good price) and most of all information. I've been visiting this thread and the JVC thread and absorbing info to make a decision. It's so much better than going to a retail store and asking around!!!

Cataphract

12-03-06, 08:22 PM

I turned on my PJ today and saw that my lamp hours counter was reset back to 0 on its own. I know it was okay yesterday as I had checked it when I turned the PJ on.

Btw, I only have about 850 hrs on the lamp so this is strange. I hope it is not a sign of further troubles ahead, everthing is working fine as of now, except well the lamp counter now shows 3 hrs after little bit of use today.

Is this something to be concerned about? :confused:

spyder696969

12-03-06, 08:53 PM

I found a "Mega Cable" on eBay for like $80 that is 30ft and has component, composite and s-video all in one and connects component via the DVI connector on the projector.

Don't even bother with that "combo/all-in-one" garbage. Just get your cables at monoprice.com in the link above. They are very inexpensive, and are excellent quality cables. You'd be able to get an HDMI/DVI + component + S-Vid for less than that one (likely crap) cable alone. Don't even bother with composite unless you absolutely must.

billymac

12-03-06, 11:23 PM

hey guys, quick question. my in72 went tu. gotta send it in. :(

it's been a real treet so i'm not to upset about it. we'll see how there support is i suppose.

at any rate, i slapped up my 4805 as a backup and now my hd-a1 isn't syncing to the 4805. i'm using the M1-hdmi adapter. anybody know what the scoop is on that? my receiver is (vsx-84txsi) is flashing hdmi and then the hd-a1 finally says no hdmi sync or something like that and goes to "stop". do i have to use the m1-dvi adapter or something in order to get this to work with the 4805? i'm trying to send it 1080i. anybody?

BenJF3

12-04-06, 05:27 AM

homer1963

12-04-06, 08:00 AM

I have an important question about the In72 seeing as I'm convinced to get one now. Will it display/accept HDCP content. My cable provider says that it must in order to display it otherwise I have to use component. I want to use HDMI for all my components (DVD/VCR combo and STB running through the HDMI in my amp. Any help? I will repost this in the In72 forum.

Ben this should answer your question:

INFOCUS TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS*

1 - HDMI: SDTV, EDTV, HDTV Component (4:4:4 or 4:2:2) and RGB digital video, Interface (HDMI)
with HDCP decryption

MurphyAgain

12-04-06, 09:23 AM

Help Selling my spare SP-4805 bulb

I decided to scrap the idea of having a 4805 for a backup So I will be selling my NEW Infocus ( NEVER used) SP-lamp-021 BULB ON flea Bay .
I Notice the prices for the bulbs are all over the place .
What's the cheapest anyone has seen so far so I can set the Price for the bulb that's available for shipping ?
.

I figure $310 plus ($8 to $10 ) for shipping would be fare .does this sound about right .. It would be nice to have few Paypal dollars on credit.

I need to do some building today and planed to Ebay it tonight .

Thanks For any input .
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/1731/dcp0016800x600gg5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/1479/dcp0014800x600ov5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
Cheers

myHTheaven

12-04-06, 09:24 PM

For SD DVD's, best bang for the $ is the Bravo D1, bar none.

But if you are buying HD DVD's or plan on renting them then the HD DVD players are the way to go. The colors and sharpness will be better. But, there just isn't enough HD material available yet for the HD players that I could find. And I rent new releases every week (love watching them on the Big screen with my 4805). So if you are like me and rent tons of movies (SD) then it is a no brainer, D1 wins hands down.

I did invest in a nice standard DVD collection - probably best to get the most out of those for now. Just don't want to waste money on a DVI cable - if HDMI is what is needed next.

For the Bravo D1 set up - has anyone done it with an HDMI cable using a DVI to HMDI adapter at the Bravo - and HDMI back to DVI at the projector. Seems like a lot of handshakes that may not work quite right. Just not sure I want to get a 25 ft DVI cable at this point. The Bravo D1 seems like a deal - but the cable prices will cost you. I will check out monoprice though.

myHTheaven

12-04-06, 09:39 PM

Ja Phule

12-04-06, 09:45 PM

speed32219

12-05-06, 01:50 AM

Nevermind - now I feel like an idiot. The DVI cables I kept seeing were $300 vs. $30 at monoprice. Now we are in the no-brainer zone to try out the Bravo D1. I just need to see if that big DVI cable and connector fit in the pipe I put in the ceiling for that future HDMI cable. I will have to test that out with the cable that came with the projector.

For the Bravo D1 set up - has anyone done it with an HDMI cable using a DVI to HMDI adapter at the Bravo - and HDMI back to DVI at the projector. Seems like a lot of handshakes that may not work quite right. Just not sure I want to get a 25 ft DVI cable at this point. The Bravo D1 seems like a deal - but the cable prices will cost you. I will check out monoprice though.[/QUOTE]

I love this 4805 and I only use Monoprice calbes/accessories! :)

D1 DVI-D to HDMI Input2 on the AVR (Custom 1:1. 3')
Comcast 3412 HDMI to HDMI input 1 (1080i 3')
Output HDMI to DVI-D/M1 adatper at 4805 (20')
Plus various component inputs to AVR. (VCR, Laser Disk S Video and another DVD) switching to HDMI output goiing to 4805 (480p)

Works wonderful, like a champ. One output cable to 4805, clean and great video.
Oh, and great sounds. A Big Screen experience is more than just video.

The Yammy with energy 5.1 speakers and 150 powered sub rocks!

Can't wait for the wife to leave this Thursday to visit ppl in S. Florida until Monday when I fly down to meet her for a cruise. I can crank it up (Superman and Pirates of the carribean II plus many more) to 120 DB for a long, long weekend. :D

cavu

12-05-06, 02:08 AM

Output HDMI to DVI-D/M1 adatper at 4805 (20')Why don't you have an HDMI to M1-DA cable? Why are you farting around with adapters? :confused:

Quaid

12-05-06, 11:02 AM

Why all the IN72 fanboy'ing these days? I thought that it was concluded it was inferior with less accurate colours, less accurate image processing (lower bit depth), but brighter with a sexier case?

Martin Butler

12-05-06, 11:12 AM

My thinking when I replaced my 4805 with the IN72 was, same basic thing, new bulb, but it's more complicated than that. I've only had it up for a few hours and my first impression is that the 4805 was sharper. I'll see what's up after calibrations this weekend.

MurphyAgain

12-05-06, 11:52 AM

Why all the IN72 fanboy'ing these days?

I had the 4805 and now own the IN72 .

We did a shoot out with both units side by side with two of the same sources and screens .

IN72 is the winner .
4805 was a super unit and still is .

But if you can get the same unit (But better ) for less the half price With a One year Warrantee and 6 months on the bulb its a no brainier in my world . then again its my world.
Price was GREAT AS WELL :D

Like i have said before If you have a 4805 and you paid $700 to $1500 range and your happy then great :) .but if you are starting to worry about the image tube , color wheel .and what ever else and the BULB is getting up in miles and your out of warrantee then ebay it .There are ummm.....umm certain people paying $350 to $700 http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/9005/lmaore9.gif (http://imageshack.us)on a used units .I would unload it and grab a $499 In72 unit and buy some time until the pjs 720 and 1080 keep dropping in price.

krasmuzik

12-05-06, 04:07 PM

Murphy

Are you suggesting a "free" upgrade at the expense of the clueless ebayers? :D

krasmuzik

12-05-06, 04:15 PM

Quaid

And where did you mister unfanboy get such bad misinformation? From a cheap 720P fanboy I bet trying to get you to upgrade rather than sidegrade?. Sorry jokes on you.

IN72 is an SP4805 with better optics, better case, better fan. They swapped out the Faroujda for PixelWorks for a sharper 1080i and 480i. They improved calibrated brightness and contrast and color. They doubled the lamp warranty (though you have to buy an extra year of PJ warranty). The sale prices are to compete with cheaper 720P DLP whose shillers would have you think it is just as good a calibrated image. It ain't. We don't need to see more pixels of a badly calibrated DVD image!

The only reason people were not buying IN72 was because the SP4805 used market used to be more active and the SP4805 picture was only 10% worse for a lesser price. But there is not many miles left in those old boxes long out of warranty anymore and the market is drying up. And as Murphy pointed out a new IN72 can be had for less than some are trying to ebay their used SP4805s! That is all we need is this thread filling up with those clueless ebayers!

MurphyAgain

12-05-06, 04:46 PM

Are you suggesting a "free" upgrade at the expense of the clueless ebayers?

Kras WHO ME ?? ;)

To Quote P.T. Barnum

There's one born every minute."

And times a tickin

Cheers :)

As

krasmuzik

12-05-06, 05:59 PM

Geez I wonder how much a krasmuzik calibrated signature edition with new lamp and personally cleaned colorwheel by yours truly would fetch.....

BenJF3

12-05-06, 06:35 PM

Well, I for one am not too impressed with Plasma's right now. My old man bought a new 1080i Hitachi and I'm sure it will look awesome with an HD signal, but SD looks lousy to me. Even Dish via S-Video doesn't look that great and DVD's via component look like crap on his old player. He did upgrade to an upconverting player that outputs at 1080i by HDMI which drastically improved the picture. However, there are no locals broadcasting in HD. The closest are in Syracuse and his aerial can't pull them in. The digital locals are crystal clear, but lack pop. I think he may scrap his satellite configuration and go with the local cable for HD. I was almost going to get a set like his, but am sticking with the projector. Sure, it's going to be ALOT more involved getting the whole "theater" set up with a front projector, but if it looks as good as everyone says then it will be worth it. I just hope the DLP looks better than the plasma.

speed32219

12-05-06, 07:26 PM

Why don't you have an HDMI to M1-DA cable? Why are you farting around with adapters? :confused:

I had a 15' HDMI to M1-DA cable that I purchased from Monoprice. But after I finally mounted the PJ it came up short. Used it for a while, then decided to do cables/adapters. I have no loss of signal and no video degradation. So I find cables/adapters (especially HDMI cables with appropriate adapters to work great while giving me the flexibility I need so I can upgrade hardware without changing cable types. (At least 98% of the time)

I also plan to add another PJ by Xmas, which I am undecided on right now (Maybe an IN72 with 131" 2.40 screen and anamorphic lense) and I already have a monoprice manual HDMI switcher & 20' HDMI cable to run to it. Sure wish I could afford a, um lets see ok I know a YAMAHA DPX-1300. But a $800 lense, screen and inexpensive PJ will break the bank.

That Yammy DPX-1300 is one sweeetttt PJ. It is rated a better buy over the newer 1080P units with its superior image, now that's saying something! :)

Well, picked up all the new realeases for my 5 days movie binge and the 4805 is all warmed up, so going to enjoy Superman and Pirates of the carribean II tonight.

Quaid

12-07-06, 01:53 AM

Quaid

And where did you mister unfanboy get such bad misinformation? From a cheap 720P fanboy I bet trying to get you to upgrade rather than sidegrade?. Sorry jokes on you.

Such bad information was the result of there being too much information in this thread for me to keep straight after 2 years of following it and it's predecessor. I'm a biophysics student and it's final exam time...give a guy a break.

Also, have some tact.

The jokes not on me because I don't make decisions without exploring my options. Good thing I posted and got the quality feedback from the two posters before you. The joke might be on you though for lacking professional manner while representing your company on the forums.

Cheers.

EDIT: perhaps I got the idea implanted by yourself:

I think the IN72 is really just the SP4805 in a purty case! Not much they can do to improve it that would not increase the cost.

curtis104

12-07-06, 08:54 AM

EDIT: perhaps I got the idea implanted by yourself:

Good comeback Grasshopper!! Now get back to your studies. LOL :D

curtis104

12-07-06, 09:00 AM

Quaid

12-07-06, 09:59 AM

I have been meaning to ask the 4805 gamers this question. Are you having problems playing games that have dark scenes like Gears of War. I am having a terrible problem using my PJ to play any games with dark scenes because there are many areas that I can not see. If I use my PJ I would never be able to find or see COG Tags. There are other games like Rainbow Six Vegas, Oblivion.... This is after the AVIA calibrations and turning up the brightness/contrast (which is too high makes the picture horrible). Any suggestions. I would love it to have some semblance of my LCD TV which is a HP LC2600N.

I have not had this problem. I only use my projector at night though, when it is dark dark dark. If you must use your projector with some ambient light, you could adjust the gamma. Gamers do this all the time to get a competitive advantage, not caring at all for the effect on picture quality. Give it a shot and see what you think.

utopia1956

12-07-06, 03:00 PM

krasmuzik

12-07-06, 03:15 PM

EDIT: perhaps I got the idea implanted by yourself:

Then you should read further along in the threads than nine months ago. Before it was released I expressed my doubts they could improve the SP4805 numbers - but they did and I stated so - based on hands on experience - rather than believing everything marketing hyped.

And not sure how I can give you a break for finals. I just completed a year long masters thesis and still manage to stay on top of the thread with current information. A lot of other people manage to stay current with the thread - and also would get snippy with people that don't want to read it and rehash newbie questions that have been answered every week for nine months....from other people that don't keep up.

Rather than be a smart ass about the new product sucking basically - you could have said - "I have not kept up - are there any improvements of IN72 over the SP4805?" - rather than accusing people with IN72 of being fanboys from the start. You get what you give on here - your original post was lacking tact - you will not get tactful responses in reply.

mrpergo

12-07-06, 03:29 PM

Today I received an offer from InFocus to extend my warranty for one or two years. However it stated my purchase date as 12/31/04 and current coverage will expire on 12/31/06, when I actually bought it 03/21/05. In fact I got the rebate that required the purchase to be made between March 15, 2005 and May31, 2005. Does everyone's warranty expire Dec. 31, less than two years?:confused:
I bought mine on 3/15/2005 and haven't received anything from Infocus as of yet.
I am just starting to see a shadow on the right side of the screen which I think is a light tunnel problem. I'm just trying to figure out if I want to send it in now or wait until after the holidays.
I don't see how they could shorten the warranty. The 4805 has a two year warranty from the day of purchase. Thats the way I read it. If you find out something different please let me know.

Hughman

12-07-06, 05:42 PM

Has anyone had the offer from INFOCUS to upgrade to the IN72 for a small fee in lieu of warranty work on the 4805?

mrpergo

12-07-06, 06:39 PM

I would sure go for that :)
Maybe I should call to get my paper work started for a light tube repair and see if they make me an offer.
How cool would that be.

spyder696969

12-08-06, 06:42 PM

InFocus direct via eBay is killing me...right now they've got a listing for 10 of the 4805 units for $5500! :rolleyes:

MurphyAgain

12-08-06, 07:23 PM

maybe if you sweat talk them they will throw in extra image tubes and a few color wheels.

dam $550 BUCKS each for a three year old modle its so tempting .
Im going to do my best to hold back.

krasmuzik

12-08-06, 08:30 PM

That is about the price of the lamp and warranty - the PJ is free !

spyder696969

12-08-06, 09:12 PM

They give you a shipping break for buying all 10 units. Spend as much as a decent used car and they "only" charge you $75 to ship all 10. What a bunch of nice guys they are! ;)

Imagine, 30,000+ bulb hours and 9 spare units on hand, ready to go. :)

utopia1956

12-11-06, 02:13 PM

Today I received an offer from InFocus to extend my warranty for one or two years. However it stated my purchase date as 12/31/04 and current coverage will expire on 12/31/06, when I actually bought it 03/21/05. In fact I got the rebate that required the purchase to be made between March 15, 2005 and May31, 2005. Does everyone's warranty expire Dec. 31, less than two years?:confused:
This is the reply I received from Infocus Warranty:
The date reflected on the offer you received was the date the projector was shipped from the Infocus facility. As long as you have your proof of purchase, you will not have a problem receiving “in warranty” repairs from 12/31/06 – 3/15/07. If you’d like to purchase an extended service plan, we would need a copy of your proof of purchase with your enrollment so the purchase date can be changed to provide you with the full term of extended coverage

curttard

12-12-06, 01:17 AM

dbenne00

12-12-06, 09:55 AM

Hey all. I've been looking through this thread to see if anyone ever found a solution for the "rolling bars" problem many have had with the 4805. I read the first 100 pages and searched for various combinations of rolling, bars, lines, etc and it seems there was really nothing after March.

To recap, the problem was with component sources, faint lines or bars running horizontally across the screen and scrolling upwards or downwards. The problem was intermittent, could be gotten rid of by either switching the source momentarily or unplugging and then replugging one of the component cables, and was not a ground loop issue.

Did anyone find a solution or did anyone contact Infocus about the problem?

I'd love a solution to this problem, too. On my PJ, it only happens when feeding a 480p signal via component, 480i is OK.

reconlabtech

12-12-06, 12:12 PM

homer1963

12-12-06, 02:24 PM

I have a 4805 recently obtained used and it was FULL of dust. Tried to vacuum it out as best as possible but it will only run for 20 minutes before the lamp quits and I have to let it cool down again. The big fan is running but the little fan inside sounds like a miniature cow mooing as it tries to spin up and then quits over and over. Does this sound like an electronic problem or is the smaller fan defective? I tried to find a way to contact Bob Williams since the forums seem to indicate he would be a good contact for this question but I could not find one so I ask you folks to please give me a few tips on this. I would appreciate it.

Thanks, John

Can you get an image before the projector shuts down?

if so it sounds like the fan is gone for sure. I think small one cools the lamp. Since you are out of warranty I would take the small fan out and replace it with something matched up at a computer store. InFocus will charge you a kings ransom to fix it. Most local computer stores or a PC Club would be able to get you a replacement. You should also be able to find something online from the specs on the fan itself. There are a few people om here that have had fan issues. Try a search for posts from a member named Onion on this thread.

Good luck hope it all works out.

Homer

BenJF3

12-12-06, 02:35 PM

It might be as simple as cleaning and lubricating the fan. I know I've done numerous computer repairs where dust clogged fans were to blame. I took out the fan, used some compressed air and a few shots of WD-40, then manually spun the fan blades until they move freely again. After that powered it up and let it run for awhile to work the lubricant in. If you are going to strip it apart, it's worth looking at, especially if it's an oddball size fan. You would think that these manufacturer's would use a cheap foam filter on the outside to catch all the dust and crap.

dagware

12-12-06, 03:11 PM

Hey all. I've been looking through this thread to see if anyone ever found a solution for the "rolling bars" problem many have had with the 4805. I read the first 100 pages and searched for various combinations of rolling, bars, lines, etc and it seems there was really nothing after March.

To recap, the problem was with component sources, faint lines or bars running horizontally across the screen and scrolling upwards or downwards. The problem was intermittent, could be gotten rid of by either switching the source momentarily or unplugging and then replugging one of the component cables, and was not a ground loop issue.

Did anyone find a solution or did anyone contact Infocus about the problem?
The only things I've read in this thread about "rolling bars" were ground loop related. I'm not aware of anyone having the issue you described, where the problem could be gotten rid of by unplugging and re-plugging the cables (which I will agree does not sound like a ground-loop issue).

I know this doesn't really help...

-Dan

curttard

12-12-06, 07:14 PM

Yeah, the main people talking about the problem were booker21 and a few others. All of them could temporarily fix the problem by either hitting the source button on the remote, or unplugging and replugging a component cable (for me, always the green one).

I'll email Infocus and see what they have to say.

curttard

12-12-06, 07:55 PM

Another quick question, kind of pointless since I've already had (and been enjoying) my 4805 since August 05:

The Infocus spreadsheet calculator we all seem to be going by is based on 600 lumens, but isn't the 4805's actual output once calibrated only 350 or so? Aren't all the spreadsheet screensizes/ft-L way too high?

krasmuzik

12-12-06, 08:11 PM

No the Infocus spreadsheet calculator is correct for a new lamp - the SP4805 loses very little to calibration after burn-in - however you have to consider lamp life is specified at the average 50% lumens loss.

You should design for 16-24ftL new lamp to account for that. 350 lumens would be an older lamp - or a review site that is known for serious inconsistency in their lumens measures. Optomize your setup for such a poor review - and you will find yourself wearing sunglasses or using a ND2 filter. Most did a 92" screen at 1.1 gain in their setups - and often it is still too brite.

curttard

12-13-06, 12:24 AM

350 lumens would be an older lamp - or a review site that is known for serious inconsistency in their lumens measures.

Ha, I think that's a 'bingo'.

Most did a 92" screen at 1.1 gain in their setups - and often it is still too brite.

Yeah, I have an ND2 filter still on at close to 900 hours. I've had my screen at about 100" and thought it seemed dim lately. I shrank it back down to 91", but honestly, at that size it just seems way too small now. I have the feeling I'll be bumping it back up in a day or two, maybe taking off the filter.

duo man

12-13-06, 05:48 AM

Hi
I'm not really understanding why i'm getting a nicer picture while watching regular tv using s video instead of component.

The colors and the brighness are allot nicer when using component but there is allot of noise in the picture witch really kills the picture and looks whorse then s video.

Also when using component the picture doesn't fill the screen in 16:9 it leaves me bars on the sides and it gets streched out and you actually can see that it looks computerized.When i'm in s video it feels like i'm using much higher resolution every thing thightens up and the picsal become invisible.

My signal also switches from (ntsc) to 480p in the menu while i'm switching back and forth.Does anyone understand why this is happening and why component is not giving me the better picture?

I'm feeding the projector 480p from my satalite receiver because when i feed it 1080i the blacks become way to black i lose all the detail.Maybe all i would need is some calabrating.

Thanks
Thanks

homer1963

12-13-06, 07:53 AM

duo man

12-13-06, 08:07 AM

If you can feed it 480i use that setting for SDTV (use 1080i for HD content), then the 4805 will do the signal processing that is what is happening when you use s-video. NTSC is 480i the 480p signal you currently send over component turns off the processor in the 4805. I am sure your receivers processor is what is killing your image. You may also benefit from calibration as well I use DVE.
Hi
My receiver only lets me choose between 480p 720p or 1080i.

Thanks for reply

Claudio Cesar

12-13-06, 09:32 AM

BenJF3

12-13-06, 09:40 AM

Sorry, I don't have a 4805. In fact, I'm new to the world of projectors (my In72 should be delivered today! YEA!!!) I was referring to how I have repaired chipset and power supply fans in tower PC's. I build and refurb them. Fans crapping out from dust is a common problem. I'm sorry for the confusion. I was making a suggestion based on how I repair clogged up computer fans, but the process should work on your 4805 provided the bearings are not bad and the fan is not totally seized up.

Claudio Cesar

12-13-06, 09:48 AM

charliemike

12-13-06, 10:18 AM

charliemike

12-13-06, 10:20 AM

Try a direct connection from the 4805 to the hd dvd player. It's possible the 4805 has issues with the other links in your chain.

I think there's an autosync function on the remote somewhere. Try that. I had the same issues.

homer1963

12-13-06, 10:47 AM

Hi
My receiver only lets me choose between 480p 720p or 1080i.

Thanks for reply

I would use 1080i and calibrate the image then. One thing though, the 4805 only processes the incoming image on s-video and component if you use the M1 connection it by-passes the processor in the projector.

homer1963

12-13-06, 10:53 AM

I've had my 4805 for two years and have already had a color wheel mechanism replaced under warranty. Now it looks like it's doing it again. Thank god for the extended warranty I bought.

Has anyone else had multiple failures of their color wheel mechanism?

It makes me VERY wary of going with Infocus again on the IN74 (despite how much I like the 4805 projector) because of this. I realize I'm a sample of one but I don't want to keep buying projectors all the time either.

TIA

The IN series does not have the color wheel and light tube issues common in the 4805. The only issue I have heard of with the In72 is a fuse that was under sized on early production models that fails if the unit gets too hot. The current units that InFocus are shipping have been modded with larger fuses to correct it.

reconlabtech

12-13-06, 11:09 AM

Can you get an image before the projector shuts down? If so it sounds like the fan is gone for sure...
Homer

Just wanted to give you an update: An external fan was rigged and the projector remained cool and ran the whole time - looks like the fan(s) are shot. I am looking for replacement parts but may also jump on the IN72 bandwagon before the end of the month as well.

Thanks for you input!

homer1963

12-13-06, 03:05 PM

Just wanted to give you an update: An external fan was rigged and the projector remained cool and ran the whole time - looks like the fan(s) are shot. I am looking for replacement parts but may also jump on the IN72 bandwagon before the end of the month as well.

Thanks for you input!

Thank you for the update glad I steered you in the right direction. PM me if you decide to upgrade, you can sell me your old 4805 for parts for mine!

Brantel

12-13-06, 03:14 PM

homer1963

12-13-06, 03:23 PM

I am going to hook up my new HR20 to my 4805 via HDMI.

Question is, what do I set the HR20 to send the 4805? 480I,480P,720P,1080I

I want the best progressive scan image I can get from this source so what do I set it to feed the 4805?

Is the scaller in the 4805 better than the HR20 or vice versa? If I send it 1080I will the 4805 deinterlace it into a Progressive image like it does if you send it 480I?

One more thing, until I get the HDMI cable ran, I will be using component. Will whatever you suggest for the above work the same with component?

Thanks in advace!
Brantel...
If you use HDMI your receiver will do the processing because the M1 port on the 4805 just projects what ever it gets. I have a HR10-250 (The old HD receiver) and I leave it on 720p most of the time. that way if I am watching a SD channel it fills the screen and then if I switch to a HD channel it downconverts the signal and looks fantastic. The only time I use 1080 is if I know the scource is 1080 like discovery HD. If you want to use the 4805 processor you will have to hook it up via Component. If the HR20 is as good as the HR10-250 you will like the image via HDMI.

Hope that helps,

Happy viewing!

Clams Canino

12-13-06, 04:58 PM

I would use 1080i and calibrate the image then. One thing though, the 4805 only processes the incoming image on s-video and component if you use the M1 connection it by-passes the processor in the projector.

With this in mind what signals can you feed it over the M1 and still have it work at all? When I switch my PC to 1024x768 destop - my 4805 gets upset.

-W

Clams Canino

12-13-06, 05:03 PM

smithfarmer

12-13-06, 05:16 PM

I'm well past 1800 hours on my bulb and with the ND2 filter on I think it's finally starting to look a bit dark. (screen is 102")

Think I should have pulled it a while ago?, wait a little longer? etc??
When did you all pull your ND2's off??

-W (just looking to see what the gallery did in general. I know the final decision is up to me to me.)
I'm close to 1400 hours and using a 120" SilverStar and probably would never take it of but the 4805 will become my bedroom pj after the first of the year and I'm sure it will no longer be needed by then. I'd say you probably don't need it any longer. Take it off and enjoy your new lamp. ;)

homer1963

12-13-06, 05:17 PM

homer1963

12-13-06, 05:22 PM

With this in mind what signals can you feed it over the M1 and still have it work at all? When I switch my PC to 1024x768 destop - my 4805 gets upset.

-W

I have never looked at HTPC I bought a D1 and feed it 854x480@72hz and love the results! I would have thought it would take any res as long as it was sent a 48,60 or 72hz. I know there is a calculator out there for custom res. maybe the numbers are just a little off?

Clams Canino

12-13-06, 08:24 PM

I agree it's probably subjective I have 1400 hrs on mine and it's still too bright without it.

I was wrong.. I'm well past 1700 hours.

But anyway, I pulled it off and it seemed "too bright". However, doing an A-B comparison, it's a bit less less "too bright" without the filter - than it is "too dark" with the filter. So by popular vote (my wifes) we are leaving it off. And YES it's like a brand new lamp again. However, 2 year sago when the lamp was new it was "headache too bright" - now it's just a little bit too bright. I don't think it rises to headache level any more. But I'm still a little concerned that it looks more like plasma TV than a movie theater. I'll see if I get used to it.

Just the fact that stuff was looking dark to me, when there was only slow evolution, indicates to me that too dark was indeed a reality. It was kinda like being in a theater with an older bulb. Movies were just starting to look a little dingy, and darker movies were really dark. So I guess it was time. We did an A-B comparison using the "House of Flying Trailer" (great colors) an also the 1st 10 minutes of Star Wars. So.... I guess I have a new lamp :))

I'm kinda sad.... I don't know that it's the beginning of the end for this wonderful PJ - but I'm sure that it's the end of the beginning.

-W

duo man

12-13-06, 09:45 PM

homer1963

12-13-06, 10:53 PM

Hi i hope this is a little clearer.

I'm having problems understanding something.I have my hd satellite receiver hooked up to my 4805 through s video on source #1,and i have component going through source#2.

Here's my problem,if i watch hdtv, i use component and i feed my 4805 with 1080i,the picture is very nice and it fills the screen with a 16:9 picture.

The problem is when i flip the channel to sdtv i get a picture about 14:3 and theirs allot of picture noise and it very grainy.Even if i change it to 480p the picture gets a little better but it still stays at about 14:3 and their still is allot of noise in the picture.

If i switch my source on that channel to s video i get back a 16:9 picture and it's alot cleaner with allot less noise in the picture.The colors aren't as warm but overall it's a much more film like image with hardly any noise in the picture.

P.S. While i have that 14:3 style picture, my 4805 is in 16:9 mode on the menu.

Thanks
When you send the projector an s-video signal its in an NTSC format which is 480i
the 4805 is a progressive display and will use the processor to convert the interlaced signal to a progressive one or 480p. when you are on component at 1080i the processor won't do anything so it depends on what the processor and scaler in your receiver is sending it. try setting your 4805 to native instead of 16:9 and your receiver to what ever corresponds to wide or 16:9. If that does not help post again and we will keep working on it. overall though you will probably not get as good an image with the receiver, since it won't do 480i over component you may just have to settle for s-video to get the more pleasing image.

Clams Canino

12-13-06, 11:41 PM

when you are on component at 1080i the processor won't do anything .

I'm not sure I agree with this statement.
I thought the Faroudja was active over the component (RGB) inputs???

-W (who can also confirm after tonight, that at 1700+ hpurs the bulb is dimmed enough to be past the "headache" stage - but still plenty bright without the ND2)

-W

Paladyr1

12-14-06, 11:49 AM

Where are the instructions on upgrading the firmware?

vttom

12-14-06, 12:09 PM

Where are the instructions on upgrading the firmware?You need to go here and download the firmware package. Instructions are included.

http://infocus.com/service/sp4805/software.asp

Ja Phule

12-14-06, 12:31 PM

When you send the projector an s-video signal its in an NTSC format which is 480i
the 4805 is a progressive display and will use the processor to convert the interlaced signal to a progressive one or 480p. when you are on component at 1080i the processor won't do anything so it depends on what the processor and scaler in your receiver is sending it. try setting your 4805 to native instead of 16:9 and your receiver to what ever corresponds to wide or 16:9. If that does not help post again and we will keep working on it. overall though you will probably not get as good an image with the receiver, since it won't do 480i over component you may just have to settle for s-video to get the more pleasing image.

Well, when it receives 1080i, it does do something. :) It scales it down to 854x480 using its scaler. The faroudja scaler on the 4805 is also very good. Otherwise, we'd be stuck with a large quarter of the 1080i image on our screen. :)

Claudio Cesar

12-14-06, 04:19 PM

duo man

12-14-06, 08:03 PM

When you send the projector an s-video signal its in an NTSC format which is 480i
the 4805 is a progressive display and will use the processor to convert the interlaced signal to a progressive one or 480p. when you are on component at 1080i the processor won't do anything so it depends on what the processor and scaler in your receiver is sending it. try setting your 4805 to native instead of 16:9 and your receiver to what ever corresponds to wide or 16:9. If that does not help post again and we will keep working on it. overall though you will probably not get as good an image with the receiver, since it won't do 480i over component you may just have to settle for s-video to get the more pleasing image.
Hi
Thanks for your replys you've solved one of my problems.I changed the setting on the receiver from 16:9 to 4:3 and know i finally get a 16:9 picture,go figure!!

My second problem is that my s video picture is nicer than my component,Ja Phule is right the 1080i picture is being scaled down to 854 by 480 witch is probably causing all the graininess and the noise in the picture.

What are most of you using to watch sdtv svideo or component and are you getting a noise free picture.My sdtv is digital so i get a beautiful noise free picture on my 42"sony

Martin Butler

12-15-06, 01:03 AM

Component for all TV, looks good!

spyder696969

12-15-06, 01:24 PM

My sdtv is digital so i get a beautiful noise free picture on my 42"sony
Being digital isn't entirely the cause, and the "beautiful" picture isn't exactly the effect. The two don't necessarily always have anything to do with one another, regardless of the brain-washing that satelite comanies are attempting to push on everyone.

DenM3

12-15-06, 03:52 PM

dagware

12-15-06, 05:14 PM

Anybody using HD FIOS with their 4805?

I'm using a Fios HD box to the 4805 via component. (My dvi connection is taken now via a bravo D2)

The problem is when I go from standard Def to HD channels, I'm getting a pause which kicks in the "setting up image" screen, and then after a loooong second I see the HD channel. I'm not switching sources, I'm just changing the channels on fios.

My comcast service did not do this. It was seamless like changing channels on regular TV.

Is there any way to get around this? Thanks for any advice.
I'm not using FIOS, but this happens all the time to me when I go from HD to 480i broadcasts on my Moxi. Going from 480i to HD is *much* faster for me. And I haven't found a solution, however people have suggested fiddling with the Sync Threshold setting. This didn't help me, but it might help you. Try setting it to 0 and see if that works. If not, try some other settings.

-Dan

cavu

12-15-06, 05:53 PM

I am looking for a SP4805 lamp assembly (burned out is OK) for an experiment with an alternate bulb. Does anyone have one they'd care to mail to me? I'll certainly pay costs. It would be great if someone in Canada has one (for the least hassle) but I'll take one from anywhere! ;)

spyder696969

12-15-06, 06:13 PM

I am looking for a SP4805 lamp assembly...
Cavu,

Are you going to try something along the lines of what I've read here? http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=59091

cavu

12-15-06, 06:28 PM

Are you going to try something along the lines of what I've read here?Something like that! :cool:

Ja Phule

12-15-06, 07:40 PM

Anybody using HD FIOS with their 4805?

I'm using a Fios HD box to the 4805 via component. (My dvi connection is taken now via a bravo D2)

The problem is when I go from standard Def to HD channels, I'm getting a pause which kicks in the "setting up image" screen, and then after a loooong second I see the HD channel. I'm not switching sources, I'm just changing the channels on fios.

My comcast service did not do this. It was seamless like changing channels on regular TV.

Is there any way to get around this? Thanks for any advice.

I don't think the problem is with the service, but your HD box. Your cable box should have a setting somewhere to set all output to one resolution. Right now, your box is probably sending 480i for SD channels and 720p/1080i to HD channels, which causes the 4805 to resync.

Clams Canino

12-16-06, 12:21 AM

mijoeldotor

12-16-06, 09:25 AM

Hello Gentlemen,
I need some advice from the "oldies".
Since last week end, my 4805 began to do a strange noise -like a high rpm turbine- but not so loud. (much less than when you set it in high power mode, but louder than usual).
I don't know if this noise is coming from any of the two fans or the color wheel assy.
As my pj is out of warranty, I'd like to know:

1.- Is there any way to lubricate the coolers shafts?
2.- Is there any way to lubricate the colour wheel bearing (if any)?
3.- Is it safe to remove the top cover of the pj without pulling any cables attached to it?
4.- Any tips PLEASE?

I will really appreciate your help folks.
Many thanks in advance.
Claudio.
ARGENTINA.

Hola Claudio,
Try cleaning the color wheel. Here is a link explaining how to do it:
http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=581503
You can try running the unit in high power mode too. One or another may solve the problem. PM if you have any doubt.
Regards,

Hughman

12-16-06, 09:42 AM

Speaking of that.. wasn't someone experimenting with an X1 or X2 lamp in a 4805? How did that story go again??

-W

The X2 and the 4805 share the same lamp (bulb and reflector) but have different lamp housings. The X2 housing is not a fit for the 4805 but it's an easy process to swap out the lamp from an X2 housing and insert into the 4805 housing.

The X2 lamps are less expensive which may make this an attractive option for some.

Something like that anyway.

DenM3

12-18-06, 05:00 PM

I don't think the problem is with the service, but your HD box. Your cable box should have a setting somewhere to set all output to one resolution. Right now, your box is probably sending 480i for SD channels and 720p/1080i to HD channels, which causes the 4805 to resync.

You were correct. I set the output to 720 and made a few other adjustments on the Verizon STB, and it works like a champ now.

Thanks guys.

I have noticed a huge slowdown in traffic on this board. Did everyone leave? Or are they all done tweaking? :cool:

homer1963

12-18-06, 05:05 PM

You were correct. I set the output to 720 and made a few other adjustments on the Verizon STB, and it works like a champ now.

Thanks guys.

I have noticed a huge slowdown in traffic on this board. Did everyone leave? Or are they all done tweaking? :cool:

Ask a question we are all still here... You will find this place to be very addictive!

spyder696969

12-18-06, 06:47 PM

...I have noticed a huge slowdown in traffic on this board. Did everyone leave? Or are they all done tweaking? :cool:

Many got the IN72 at the smokin' hot price it's at right now and moved to that thread.

Brian I Am

12-18-06, 07:13 PM

Hello Gentlemen,
I need some advice from the "oldies".
Since last week end, my 4805 began to do a strange noise -like a high rpm turbine- but not so loud. (much less than when you set it in high power mode, but louder than usual).
I don't know if this noise is coming from any of the two fans or the color wheel assy.
As my pj is out of warranty, I'd like to know:

1.- Is there any way to lubricate the coolers shafts?
2.- Is there any way to lubricate the colour wheel bearing (if any)?
3.- Is it safe to remove the top cover of the pj without pulling any cables attached to it?
4.- Any tips PLEASE?

I will really appreciate your help folks.
Many thanks in advance.
Claudio.
ARGENTINA.

I'm an ol' time that would like some of the same answers Claudio is seeking. Todays filter cleaning left me with what sounds like a dying cow inside the PJ. I think its the large cooling fan as the color wheel will spin up fine (cheating and looking with the bulb removed and the switch engaged) but the main fan is not spinning up. High power mode produces a dying Yak sound. More cleaning a drop of lube accomplished nothing.

We had a lot of discussion ages ago about changing out the fan to a quieter one but Im not finding any firm answers in the old thread.

Anyone done a successful fan "save" or a change out with a non IF part?

BV

therealgeno

12-18-06, 08:15 PM

What's up Brian?! Long time no hear or see! I remember that someome did successfully swap in a new fan that was supposed to be quieter but it actually was about the same.

Sorry to hear about your fan - I would have thought that by now you would have an INxx, SP7210, or even the 777.

My 4805 is still running strong, although it has to warm up about 5-10 min to get rid of the famous "buzz saw" noise.

I'll try and find the "new fan swap" instructions and post it here. Glad to see the ol' folks are still around!!

Brian I Am

12-18-06, 09:58 PM

Merry Xmas Geno! Yea Iv been waiting for the HD DVD wars to settle down before making the next plunge..but now Im getting at least the 720 bug really bad with all the great deals out there...this may have been a sign from the PJ gods...

spyder696969

12-19-06, 12:45 AM

Todays filter cleaning left me with what sounds like a dying cow inside the PJ...High power mode produces a dying Yak sound. More cleaning a drop of lube accomplished nothing.
Barnyard 4805! :eek:

Clams Canino

12-19-06, 01:18 AM

Good to see the boys are still around! I pulled my ND2 filter last week so my 4805 is brand new again. :D

-W

PhilM

12-19-06, 01:48 AM

Hey, I just pulled mine off last week too. 2593 hrs. I think the HP screen did a super job of "hiding the dimming"....

Brian I Am

12-19-06, 11:50 AM

well I'v got the fan out...its a 80mm fan but the housing is slightly skinnier than a standard PC fan. Requires just a couple of notches out of the replacement fan to fit. Disassembly is nothing special if you like taking things apart...of course now we have to find out if it goes back together and works or not......

dagware

12-19-06, 12:22 PM

krasmuzik

12-19-06, 04:23 PM

Good to see the boys are still around! I pulled my ND2 filter last week so my 4805 is brand new again. :D

-W

And to think that there are some that still say just design for a dimmer projector and buy a new lamp or PJ if you don't like it dim......

Ja Phule

12-19-06, 07:58 PM

Pffff.....4805....that's SO 2 years ago....

Brian I Am

12-19-06, 08:06 PM

It is with great sadness I must report that a mere fan change did not do the trick (looks like the fan had already stopped and that it was a controller issue with the board...things had gotten a bit toasty in there) and so I now FINALLY must move on to a new PJ. It was a good ride ole boy...

The saddest part is that the thread for the new PJ will never be as fun as this one used to be. Kind of like replacing that hot girlfriend with the steady and steadfast wife...... ;)

Brian I Am

12-19-06, 08:08 PM

Pffff.....4805....that's SO 2 years ago....

I know I know...I took up GOLF damn it and got outside for a while. Now I can start all over with a stop gap PJ....didnt want to buy the good stuff NOW, have to wait until I retire so I have something to look forward too.

duo man

12-19-06, 08:35 PM

Hi
Today i was playing around with the setting and by curiosity i went into the gamma setting and i tried the pc setting and wow the colors all off a sudden were back beautiful .

I always had a strong tone of green in the picture,especially since i watch allot of hockey i would really be able to see how off it was.Now with the gamma set to pc the picture is aewsume.

I'm forced to use s video because of my satellite receiver and now i'm really happy with the picture.Is it normal to be in this setting?

Thanks Serge

krasmuzik

12-19-06, 09:21 PM

duo man

12-19-06, 09:56 PM

duo man

You are just not adapted to a calibrated image. The factory defaults are the calibrated settings - you should just need to adjust brightness/contrast/color/tint for your source.

PC gamma in the original SP4805 firmware was a very magenta grayscale with crushed blacks and whites in the interest of making power point slides pop more than they actually do.

In the latest firmware it is not as agressive as it once was - but still nowhere near accurate.

Since you watch a lot of hockey - are you comparing the real ice rink to the PJ - or are you comparing to the picture on your TV. In real life - hockey ice is not blue.

Blue ICE is something you use when you get a black eye and to keep your ice chest cold. Not something you play hockey on...
Hi
I was refereing to watching allot of hockey because the ice is white and you get to watch allot of it and the green is present in the color of the ice it's not as white as with gamma set to pc.
And overall the colors also seem to be much more natural and allot warmer,I tried to adjust it in the crt in gamma or film but i just can't get rid of that tone of green in that setting.

MurphyAgain

12-19-06, 11:32 PM

aaranddeeman

12-19-06, 11:36 PM

spyder696969

12-19-06, 11:38 PM

...In real life - hockey ice is not blue.

Blue ICE is something you use when you get a black eye and to keep your ice chest cold. Not something you play hockey on...
Nice! Personally, I think it would be very interesting to see them dye the ice to the color of the home team, sort of like Boise State's football field. :)

therealgeno

12-19-06, 11:59 PM

I know this sounds like an odd (or may be dumb) question. But let me ask anyways...

I received a letter from IF stating my warranty gets over in the beginning of 2007 and an offer to extend it.

I am not sure whether I should take that offer and go for (1 year atleast) extended warranty. On the other hand I think if for some reason my bulb dies, then the total cost I will pay will be equivalent to the price some folkes have paid for new IN72. Right now I'm at about 700 (true) Hrs.

Any thoughts?? :confused:

Glad to see you're still around!! :D

Well, if it were me, seeing that the cost is the same for a new IN72, I would go for the new IN72 (or maybe save the $$$ for the IN76 or 78).

And FWIW, I still really don't have any "upgradeitis" - the 4805's PQ still has me plenty satisfied! ;) Stick with her till she blows.

Hughman

12-20-06, 10:45 AM

duo man

....In real life - hockey ice is not blue. ...

I just saw duo man is from Montreal. :D

mijoeldotor

12-20-06, 03:15 PM

...so I now FINALLY must move on to a new PJ. It was a good ride ole boy...

The saddest part is that the thread for the new PJ will never be as fun as this one used to be. Kind of like replacing that hot girlfriend with the steady and steadfast wife...... ;)

Brian,
Are you sure there are no way for reparing it?

scitek

12-20-06, 03:59 PM

vicrose

12-20-06, 07:23 PM

Infocus direct includes 92" screen

...EDIT: CC has it priced at $799 right now with a $200 rebate, how's that sound?

curttard

12-20-06, 10:57 PM

"you should just need to adjust brightness/contrast/color/tint for your source."

But you can only adjust color and tint for 480i, right? Or do changes made in 480i carry over to other resolutions?

therealgeno

12-20-06, 11:34 PM

"you should just need to adjust brightness/contrast/color/tint for your source."

But you can only adjust color and tint for 480i, right? Or do changes made in 480i carry over to other resolutions?

curttard

You are correct in that color/tint are only available in 480i. And the changes made in 480i DO NOT carry over to other resolutions.

If you are not using Faroudja, then changes must be made in the player. If color and tint are not available on the player, I suppose you are SOL ;) .

Edit: I found your quote. Kras is simply stating that we should not mess the factory defaults because they are essentially tuned to D65. All we are responsible for is making sure our source is outputting correctly.

spyder696969

12-21-06, 12:06 AM

Is there still no one that has fixed a light tube? My unit has gotten pretty bad as of late and I'm getting tired of staring at that nasty brown line.

Here's a start: http://www.willswebdesign.com/sp4805/sp4805.htm

There are at least 3 known fixed units that I personally have read about. (Sorry, but don't think I'm going to go through both threads to find them again though! ;))

natenovak

12-21-06, 12:57 AM

i'm posting for a buddy, but this is the second time the power supply has blown out....any ideas on fixes, or is he just screwed into replacing it again...he just got it replaced last month for the same issue...any help is appreciated..it's a 4805 model

MurphyAgain

12-21-06, 07:49 AM

Is there still no one that has fixed a light tube? My unit has gotten pretty bad as of late and I'm getting tired of staring at that nasty brown line.

On the other hand, how much are IN72s going for right now? Any year-end deals anyone is aware of?

EDIT: CC has it priced at $799 right now with a $200 rebate, how's that sound?

cant place name due to board rules but
TD has them shipped at $469 after rebate with free shipping .

I bought two more for family members wanting a affordable theater room.

cheers

MurphyAgain

12-21-06, 07:51 AM

SuperBen

12-21-06, 08:20 AM

I have a DVI-I cable in my wall going to my projector, so I was hoping I could use that to send VGA signals to my projector, but I've been having problems getting it to work.

On one end I have a VGA to DVI-I adaptor, I've hooked this up to 3 different sources to test it, laptop, PC, and a Dreamcast VGA box. I hooked up a LCD monitor with DVI-I input on the other end and the signal from all three sources would work on it, so I know that the analog signal is going through the adaptor and DVI-I cable.

I've tried 2 different DVI-I to M1-DA adaptors on the other end and neither of them will get the analog signal to the projector. They would both get a DVI-D signal to it from my DVD player though. These are the the two that I've tried so far.
http://www.pacificcable.com/Picture_Page.asp?DataName=DVIIFPDM
http://www.ramelectronics.net/html/DVI_m1_adapter.html#m1

This is the only other one I've found that looks like it would work.
http://www.lindy.com/us/productfolder/04/41229/index.php

Before I order another adaptor I would like to know if there's something I'm missing here, I mean the way I'm doing this should work right?

The M1-DA to VGA cable that came with the projector will send the analog signal just fine, it's just way to short, and I don't want to have to climb a ladder to swap cables when I change sources.

utopia1956

12-21-06, 10:43 AM

The M1-DA to VGA cable that came with the projector will send the analog signal just fine, it's just way to short, and I don't want to have to climb a ladder to swap cables when I change sources.
Have you tried the short cable recently? Some people have reported the M1 port having gone bad on the 4805. Other than that check for bent pins or loose connections. I use a Monoprice DVI-M1 cable, they are inexpensive and work well.

SuperBen

12-21-06, 04:19 PM

Have you tried the short cable recently? Some people have reported the M1 port having gone bad on the 4805. Other than that check for bent pins or loose connections. I use a Monoprice DVI-M1 cable, they are inexpensive and work well.

The port seems to be working fine, since I just tested the factory cable with a VGA signal and the DVD player sent a digital signal through the cable in my wall with the DVI-I to M1 adaptor.

The monoprice cables are DVI-D, so digital only, which means they won't carry a VGA signal.

gprro1

12-21-06, 06:57 PM

anyone ?

are you using the D1? Would be a good way to check resolution vs. the in72. If the bulb is really dim it won't have a lot of pop, so it may look soft. Cleaning the color wheal may help alot? With a dim bulb you should try to get a high gain screen or paint one. Check the diy screen threads. Seems like there are a couple paint formula's that can get 1.8 gain, for cheaper too.

I remember when my nd2 filter was fogged, and it made the picture soft, so I'm thinking if the color wheel is really dirty that may be the cause.

Hughman

12-21-06, 07:58 PM

If anyone has a 4805 with at least 1700 hours on it can you take a picture of its performance and post results.

I recently sold my older 4805 when I Bought A newer IN72 ( that I love so far ) .
Wanting to keep my IN72 bulb life to a minimal I then picked up a 4805 on EBay with 1700 hours on it for $175 so the kids could use it for excessive lengths watching movies and HD football . I was looking at different alternatives like zoom box ect ect but I already had a extra bulb so it was a easy decision on the purchase of 4805 . ( the reson i sold my first 4805 was preasure from a buddy )

Will 1700 hours on the bulb make this picture softer ? heres a picture HD http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/8880/nnxb5.th.jpg (http://img156.imageshack.us/my.php?image=nnxb5.jpg)
or am i just spoiled with the newer IN72 .will cleaning the color wheel help the picture quality.

Also I wanted to use this spare unit for outside summer movie viewing will it be bright enough ( 90 inches ) ?

Having the NEW spare bulb should I use the new bulb for outside viewing and use the older 1700 hour bulb that came with the unit for the kids until it blows or is it a bad idea to keep constantly switching the two bulb.

Thanks ahead of time.

Murph

Murph,

The first order of business is to determine if your perceived softness is problem with the PJ's optics or a source issue.

Put on the white "blank screen" and take a look at the pixel structure close to the screen. The grid should be very well defined and you should see a dot in the middle of each pixel. If not, adjust the focus using the pixel grid as a guide (use the menu system as it's easier to see the grid than using a large white screen). Also, if you're using a screen with texture you might want to hold up a white sheet of paper as this will show the grid and dot without smearing. It's normal if the focus is not consistent across the screen but you should find an area that shows a well defined grid and to a lesser degree the dot.

If you determine that the the grid is soft and/or ill-defined and can not be focussed you probably have a problem with the optical portion of the PJ which could be caused by considerable dust build-up on the lens and mirrors or something is not aligned properly. To check for a coating of dust put on the black "blank screen" and from an angle look into the lens (not directly) from a few feet away. The lens and mirrors should look fairly free from dust, if your "soft" issue is due to dust the lenses should be obviously well coated. Also if you look at the screen while in black "blank screen" mode you'll see considerable light grey blobs all over the place if dust is you problem. Dust on the optics will also raise your black level which can lower contrast ratio dramatically.

Also take a look at the lens during white "blank screen", there may be a film of gunk or fingerprints on the lenses which could also cause the problem which full white will easily show.

Colorwheel condition will not have an impact on optical sharpness so you can eliminate that as a source of the problem. Cleaning a dirty wheel will provide additional brightness and more accurate color rendition only so you should do it regardless.

If you determine optical sharpness is fine then your problem is a signal sharpness, scaling, source, or connection method issue.

MurphyAgain

12-21-06, 08:16 PM

gprro1 I was using a US digital HDbox for my source.

Well I did the old Color wheel cleaning with no noticable difference,
I also changed out the bulb that came with the 4805 to the NEW unused bulb with no difference .

Hugh you have some sound advice. i will be using it all tomorrow . :)

Thanks for the info and great ideas .
I will post my results tomorrow after i tinker.

cheers

Ja Phule

12-21-06, 08:56 PM

Murph,
How long have you had your spare bulb? You should use it while it's still under it's 90 day warranty in case it blows early. Once the warranty period has passed, go back to the old bulb until it dies.

MurphyAgain

12-21-06, 09:30 PM

Murph,
How long have you had your spare bulb? .

about two years now.

seems i beter start using it ahhe :D

therealgeno

12-21-06, 09:38 PM

SuperBen,

What resolution are you sending via the VGA?

SuperBen

12-22-06, 05:43 AM

SuperBen,

What resolution are you sending via the VGA?

640x480, 800x600, and 1024x768, none of those seemed to work.

therealgeno

12-22-06, 09:52 AM

640x480, 800x600, and 1024x768, none of those seemed to work.

Try running 720p. This is very odd. And you can run all of these resloutions with the original cable?

SuperBen

12-22-06, 04:28 PM

Try running 720p. This is very odd. And you can run all of these resloutions with the original cable?

I'm not sure how to get my PC to output 720p. Yes the original cable will run any resolution I send though it.

cavu

12-22-06, 04:44 PM

I'm not sure how to get my PC to output 720p. 1280x720

therealgeno

12-22-06, 04:45 PM

SuperBen

I guess I just meant the standard 1280x720 resolution - I belive that is pretty common for VGA users on the 4805.

Of course the M1 port will not accept any 480i signals - it must be progressive, which is why I asked what resolution you were sending.

That said, if you can obviously run 640x480 via VGA with the original cable, then I guess logic dictates that the 4805 does not like something about the adaptor.

I can also tell you that some have had problems converting DVI - HDMI - M1, etc. Seems as though the 4805 doesn't like so many conversions.

I am curious, however. Can't you just go VGA - M1? Nevermind, I guess you want to use the cable that is in the wall. And you want VGA because of the dreamcast? Otherwise, I would just recommend using DVI - M1.

And the original cable will work via the DVI -I to the M1?

cavu

12-22-06, 04:58 PM

Of course the M1 port will not accept any 480i signalsIs this true? I thought the analog connections on the M1-DA connector were simply parallel connections off the component input. Don't you have to enable the component input for it to work? :confused:

I agree the M1-DA digital side does not accept 480i.

SuperBen

12-22-06, 06:53 PM

1280x720
When I set it to that resolution, it does 1024x768 with scrolling on the the factory cable and nothing on my other cables.

I updated the firmware of my 4805 to the latest version (1.3.2) and now when I hook my dreamcast up, in the lower left it flashes between "Computer" and "Computer, Setting up Image" (before it wouldn't do anything). In the about screen on the menu, it shows 1568x774, 42 Hz for the signal format, with the factory cable it's 480p.

Here's some more info on what I've got.
This is my VGA to DVI adaptor
http://cables4sure.com/proddetail~prod~110.htm
And this is my DVI-I cable
http://cables4sure.com/proddetail~prod~3C-233002-15.htm
(the details are the same for all their DVI-I cables, so even though it says single link in big letters, if you read the top its a dual link cable)

therealgeno

12-22-06, 06:54 PM

cavu

I'm almost positive - but I have been corrected many times before. I remember that I could not access the Xbox menu (480i only) when I had my component/M1 adapter, so I had to sell it.

And my DVD player had to be progressive, or the picture would get all scrambled.

Is this what you are asking?

therealgeno

12-22-06, 07:04 PM

SuperBen

Have you tried hitting "auto image" on the remote when it is trying to sync?

SuperBen

12-22-06, 07:13 PM

SuperBen

I am curious, however. Can't you just go VGA - M1? Nevermind, I guess you want to use the cable that is in the wall. And you want VGA because of the dreamcast? Otherwise, I would just recommend using DVI - M1.

And the original cable will work via the DVI -I to the M1?

Well I need VGA for the dreamcast and my laptop. The orginal cable that I have is just M1 to VGA, it seems to work fine for everything I send though it, it's just way to short since I've got my projector mounted on the ceiling.

The M1 to DVI-I adaptor I have is aftermarket, I've tried 2 different brands, and the first one I bought I sent back and got a replacement, so 3 different adaptors total. All of them would work when I sent DVI digital from my DVD player through the cable in the wall though. It just seemed that none of them would carry the analog signal from my VGA devices.

I was able to test the DVI-I cable in the wall and the VGA to DVI-I adaptor with my PCs LCD monitor and I was able to see my laptop and dreamcast on it.

Have you tried hitting "auto image" on the remote when it is trying to sync?
Yes, it shows "setting up image" for 1/2 a second, but does nothing.

therealgeno

12-22-06, 07:29 PM

SuperBen

12-22-06, 11:52 PM

SuperBen

Sorry dude. I really don't know what to tell you. Have you tried IF customer support (it may be a crapshoot though)?

I wonder if this means the 4805 will not accept DVI-I. Is anybody else here running DVI-I?

You could try sending a PM to DaGamePimp - he was previously the PC wiz when it came to the 4805. He helped me tons of times.

Is JaPhule still around?

Well I can go VGA to DVI-I then back to VGA to M1 and it will work, and I can get a digital signal over DVI-I, so it kind of seems like I somehow got 3 adapters that are only sending digital, even though they all said digital and analog. I sent some e-mails to the companies I got the adapters from, so I'll see what they have to say about it.

Ja Phule

12-23-06, 02:48 AM

I'm guessing there's a reason why Infocus doesn't have a DVI-I to m1 cable of their own. I'm guessing you will have to use the vga to m1 cable if you want vga and the only dvi they support is dvi-d over m1. It's also possible (though I can't say myself) that the DVI-I to M1 cable does not support analog despite it being a DVI-I connector. Many devices have a DVI-I port despite only supporting DVI-D only (like my Oppo).

therealgeno

12-23-06, 11:11 AM

Thanks Ja Phule. I seem to remember this topic a while ago in the original epic thread. But searching that is hard work.

It kinda rings a bell that the M1 port supports DVI-D only, but I cannot say for sure. It was an issue in the H31 thread as well (and also the whole HTPC mess).

It's good to see you're still around :)

cavu

12-23-06, 01:46 PM

It kinda rings a bell that the M1 port supports DVI-D onlyThe M1-DA port on the SP4805 definitely supports analog ... ie. the VGA to M1-DA cable that comes with the unit. InFocus sells component to M1 adapters, etc. What they do not seem to offer is a DVI-I to M1-DA cable.

Notti

12-23-06, 03:28 PM

Got Mediacom HD with Motorola STB. Looks great. I didn't know this much power's left in the 4805. Anyway, what I get from component looks great, although it seems to be a little too "hot" as I can't tell details in whites. But I want to use component with DVD. What I get from DVI has this subdued look. There's no "pop" to the picture that the picture from component has. When I see credits at the end of a movie via component, they are clean. The letters are white, and the background is black. But via DVI, the background around letters is grey, not black. I turned down brightness to see no effect. What can I do? Is Motorola DVI known to be not good or something? I appreciate your input.

cavu

12-23-06, 04:05 PM

What can I do?The Moto DVI port uses the same output level standard as the Bravo D1 DVD player. You need to set your RGB Gains (3) to 58 and your RGB Offsets (3) to 28.5 - these settings reset the SP4805 to match "studio" level inputs (16-235) instead of "PC" level inputs (0-255).

Until you do that, the Moto DVI output will look flat.

therealgeno

12-23-06, 04:16 PM

The M1-DA port on the SP4805 definitely supports analog ... ie. the VGA to M1-DA cable that comes with the unit. InFocus sells component to M1 adapters, etc. What they do not seem to offer is a DVI-I to M1-DA cable.

Now I am thoroughly confused :confused: ;) .

We know for sure that the M1 port supports analog (just progressive analog, hence the component/M1 adapter and the VGA/M1 adapter).

BUT, the DVI-I (I've no experience with this cable) is a cable that sends an analog signal via DVI, right?

So the question is whether or not the 4805 supports analog via DVI (DVI-I)? Which, to me, begs the question: why send an analog signal via DVI anyway? (although in this case, I guess we are trying to use a pre-existing cable).

Seems to me, then, that via DVI, the 4805 only recognizes DVI-D and not DVI-I - only progressive component or VGA to M1.

And I still think this issue was brought up in the epic thread. Does Kras still drop in here every now and then? I know there are bigger and better things out there now.............

cavu

12-23-06, 04:41 PM

why send an analog signal via DVI anyway?The analog signal is not "DVI" ... it is a "standard" analog signal sent through parallel conductors and separate connector pins!

A "DVI-I" cable is exactly the same as running separate DVI-D and VGA cables in the same conduit.

A "DVI-A" cable would have exactly the same signal as a stand-alone analog cable which just happens to use DVI plugs and sockets.

The M1 is just a multi-use connector serving up digital, analog (component/VGA), USB and DC-power in one port!

RuleOf72

12-23-06, 06:22 PM

Hi all,

I have not posted in a while but this site, especially this forum helped me decide to get the 4805 last year and I am extremely happy with it. Last night my primary DVD player bit the dust, it skips/freezes up very quickly. I have an older player that still works but I want to get a decent quality replacement fairly quickly.

My question is, do I really need something like the Oppo player or will another player be fine? Right now I run component to the 4805. What are some suggested players others have had good luck with that are reasonably priced? I imagine at some point I will get a HD player to go with the new LCD TV we'l get in the next few months but I still will need a basic player to do the majority of work on our 4805. Any suggestions appreciated :)

Thanks!

cavu

12-23-06, 09:01 PM

What are some suggested players others have had good luck with that are reasonably priced?It might seem a little obvious, but you should check this thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=660701).

A huge number of 4805 owners have picked up the Bravo D1. This $199 player was being cleared out at $35!

As of yesterday, though, it appears to be sold out. But some kind AVSer who bought several might take pity on you and offer you one.

You will, however, have to switch to a DVI-M1 cable.

RuleOf72

12-23-06, 11:49 PM

Cavu,

Thanks for the link but I am definitely not the type to be replacing a capacitor :eek: I injured myself putting up Cristmas decorations tonight.

Outside of the Bravo, what are some other players that have a decent reliabilty/non-skipping track record? I'm looking for a plug and play DVD. I have heard some good things about the Panasonic models. Any suggestions out there?

therealgeno

12-24-06, 01:12 AM

How about the Oppo. Or the Zenith 318.

Martin Butler

12-24-06, 01:16 AM

My OPPO 971 has worked flawlessly and they upgrade firmware instead of fixing quirks in their next models. Looks great with the 4805.

RuleOf72

12-24-06, 10:44 AM

sgibson

12-24-06, 10:57 AM

It sounds like the Oppo might be worthwhile afterall, especially if I use DVI. I seem to remember somewhere that long runs of DVI cable can be a problem. I will need about 20-25 feet for mine, is that too long? Also where is a good source for a quality cable, assuming my run is not too long?

Not a problem with 25ft. Here's an excellent source:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10238&cs_id=1023801&p_id=2502&seq=1&format=2&style=

RuleOf72

12-24-06, 11:06 AM

Thanks for the link sgibson,

I am wondering, with the 971 being $199 plus a DVI cable of $30 or so, if I were to get the 970 and run it through my existing component cable, would the picture be "nearly" as good? I ask this because the 970 is a little less in $$ plus I would save the extra dollars needed for the DVI cable (about $80 total). The reviews on the 970 seem good from a performance standpoint so is it worthwhile to consider, or not?

Mupi

12-24-06, 12:09 PM

Hi
Could someone please post the dvi settings which Bob Williams posted.
Not the 58 gain and 28-29 offset for all 2 colors. He had posted separate gains and offsets for R, G, B but I just cant find that post in the archived thread. I only get the 58 gain 29 offset post.

I read in the IN72-IN74-In76 thread that those DVI settings which Bob gave
for 4805 can also be used for In72

thanks

duo man

12-24-06, 01:50 PM

Hi
I'm setting up my new yamaha 5990 and i can't find the remote code for the 4805.
Does anyone know what the remote code is and will i be able to program my receiver to operate the 4805?

Thanks Merry Christmas

ps There's no codes for projectors in the yamaha instruction manual,what a bummer!!

Brantel

12-26-06, 04:20 PM

I have my 4805 hooked up to my DirectTV HR-20 HDMI using a M1 to HDMI cable from Monoprice.

Do I need to do the advanced R,B,G setting gain to 58 and the offset to 28.5 thing?

cavu

12-26-06, 04:55 PM

Do I need to do the advanced R,B,G setting gain to 58 and the offset to 28.5 thing?I don't know that box but probably you should do that.

Try it ... if the results are better leave it.

If blacks and shadow detail look crushed, put it back to defaults.

conchchowder

12-27-06, 09:17 AM

Everybody whines about InFocus bulbs. I spent $89 on the extended bulb warranty and I have a new bulb after my first year. Hasn't anyone read of the warranty?

conchchowder

12-27-06, 11:29 AM

For $49 you can pick up this Toshiba SD-4980. I have it going into my JVC RX-D402B with optical and HDMI to the 4805 with an HDMI-M1 adapter. I'm going for a switcher soon because I have Comcast HD, the Toshiba DVD and my computer going into the 4805. If I'm alone and it is late, I run the optical out to my Audigy Z2 S PCMCIA card in my laptop and sit amazed at the purity of the audio through my Sure E3C in ear monitors.

red gain, 54; green gain, 48; blue gain, 53; red offset, 52, green offset, 48; blue offset, 50. contrast to 54 and the color to 54.

Lou Dee

12-27-06, 01:44 PM

cavu

12-27-06, 08:24 PM

Just got an upconverting DVD player and want to run my SP-4805 at >480p over component.Why? :confused:

Ja Phule

12-27-06, 09:08 PM

Just got an upconverting DVD player and want to run my SP-4805 at >480p over component. However it keeps resetting to 480p. It was my impression (and so indicated in the user's manual) that to achieve >720p, you needed a digital signal via DVI. But after reading posts #6168 and #6172 I am totally confused. What gives?

I believe you were referring to these quotes (I don't think many people in the forum have post #s memorized). ;)

#6168 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8993337&&#post8993337)
Hi All

If I want to use 720p with my Sp4805. Can I use component for that ? Or do I have to use the DVI input ?

6172 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8994909&&#post8994909)
You can use either component or DVI.

Most upconverting DVD players will only upconvert DVD (specifically copy protected DVDs) over a HDCP protected DVI or HDMI output as this is required by the DVD Forum. Some players will upconvert DVD via component if they are hacked or if the DVD is not copy protected, otherwise, they'd be limited to only 480p output over component.

Of course, DVD players are not the only devices out that can output 720p/1080i/1080p. There are HDTV receivers, HD DVD/Blu-Ray players, game consoles, and other media devices that can output video at 720p/1080i/1080p over component.

cavu

12-29-06, 03:56 PM

billymac

12-29-06, 04:30 PM

i bet you'll see a big difference. i was a little surprised at going from a 1600+ hour bulb on my in72 to a new one. i didn't see as big a difference as i thought i might. it could be the darn christmas tree lights though. ;) definitely a little more punch though and cr "appears" slightly better. happy new year!

Notti

12-30-06, 12:58 PM

The Moto DVI port uses the same output level standard.

I suspected that might be the case. Now the background is solid black. Thank you.

As of yesterday, though, it appears to be sold out.

I must have picked up one of the last as I got mine this week. I was thinking I was going to get the bottom of the barrel unit, but it read five or so discs I tried just fine and played "Dark Victory" without a problem. But the Dark Victory DVD is definitely lacking in the PQ department. I have to try something better to see what D1 can do. Thanks Cavu and everybody for getting words out.

michiman

01-01-07, 10:12 AM

Wow, first entry in 2007... I remember when you could easily see 100 posts a day in the 4805 topic... How times have changed... My projector has about 18 months of service and 3000 hours. Still walk thru the electronics heavens and laugh at the price they want for a 20 inch flat panel... I know this suckers bulb is going to go, and I have decided to move up in resolution. I will stay with Infocus, I can not turn my back on a product that has produced so well for me.

Well got to get over to the recliners and get ready for the games...

Go Blue...

moostache2

01-01-07, 01:26 PM

It has been a long time since I posted in the 4805 threads, but I am back with a few questions for the other 4805 owners out there. Please show mercy on me if these were covered before, but I couldn't find anything in the last 20 pages of posts:

1)Is anyone else disappointed in the performance of the MS HD-DVD drive (or the Sony PS3 Blu-Ray) paired with the 4805? I am hoping that it is just me doing something wrong, but I am not blown away by the performance of either unit at this point.

(I know all about the native resolution and its inherent defiencies for HD material from close seating distances - less than 2X width - as well.) Let me throw out a few caveats first:

- my OTA-HD source is an old Voom box (Motorolla HD receiver, fed via M1-to-DVI connection), and it works GREAT. I watched some of the NFL games yesterday on it and the HD picture is fantastic. Same thing with some of the PBS programming that is aired in HD. The pixel structure and lack of resolution come into play if sitting closer than 2X width, but from 2.6X it is still stunning (even with 1980 hours on a 2-year old original bulb).

- my Denon DVM-1805 (fed to projector via component video) continues to offer a stunning DVD picture; on "reference" discs like LOTR-FOTR extended, the thing actually looks damn near HD in quality. I know the BRavo D1 offers pixel-mapping for the 4805, but unless my Denon dies I will likely stay with it for the long run. For DVD watching, I still could not be happier with the 4805.

My main problem is that the HD-DVD (360-add on drive) and Blu-Ray (PS3) simply don't measure up to the other sources as well as I had expected. It is entirely possible that my expectations have been improperly influenced by the overly bright and amped up in-store displays, but part of my disappointment also comes from the fact that my other sources paired to the 4805 have offered brilliant performance up to now.

Demos in stores look better than the units have been performing on my 4805. The demos look for all the world to be as good as the HD broadcasts look on my 4805 from 2.6X seating distance. However, the BR and HD-DVD at home don't look as good as the demos, nor do they look as good as the OTA-HD material and in some cases, they don't even look too much better than the SD-DVD picture my Denon/4805 combination offers up.

Sadly, to get the Blu-Ray (Taladega Nights, fed through component cables - only one I have so far, my HDMI adapter for the M1-to-DVI cable should arrive later this week) to look even passable, I have to feed the 4805 a native 1080i signal - for some reason, the PS3 will NOT send 720p to the projector instead downressing to 480p on any setting other than 1080i -and then use the PC gamma setting and 58/31 gains/offsets (28.5 seems too dark to me, even if it is the popularly accepted norm on the AVS forums). Using any other gamma settings results in a god-awful mess.

On the HD-DVD side, I can use the Film-gamma setting and get a decent image, but it lacks that HD "pop" that even the ED 4805 display shows so celarly on my OTA material. It also requires the Contrast to be set at 42 (on SD-DVD from the Denon Contrast is set at 5!) and the Brightness to be set at 48 (vs. 43 on SD-DVD). Even then, using these "calibrated" settings by reading AVIA through the HD-DVD drive, I still find myself not being blown away by anything from the HD-DVD drive.

King Kong simply does not measure up to my expectations - the HD-DVD image is slightly better than the SD-DVD image fed from my calibrated Denon. The situation on Batman Begins is a bit better for the HD-DVD to SD-DVD comparison, but at times the HD-DVD tends to look pretty much the same as the SD-DVD to my eyes. Troy was about the best, most consistently impressive HD-DVD....

Just wondering if others have these same problems or not...(and please forgive me if this was previoiusly addressed elsewhere...)
Thanks!

Ja Phule

01-01-07, 04:36 PM

MTN.GUY

01-02-07, 10:53 AM

I need to see if this is normal. I just hooked up my 4805 permanently on a ceiling mount.Before I had it sitting on a chair projecting on the wall and never noticed light leaking out of the front of the projector. Now that it on a ceiling mount upside down I have light coming from the vent on the front of the projector on the opposite side of the lense.It spills onto the ceiling to the left side of the projector on the ceiling about 3 feet in front and is very distracting.Is this a normal trait that I never noticed when I had the projector sitting right side up on the chair?If its not normal what can I adjust or fix myself since this unit is out of warranty.I bought this from staples last december 05 as a refurb and am just now hooking it up and using it.

moostache2

01-02-07, 11:17 AM

moostache2,

Some of the differences you seen between HD DVD/Blu-ray and HDTV broadcasts has to do with the fact that you are comparing film to HD Video. Many HD broadcasts, especially sporting events are shot using HD Cameras which don't show things such as film grain. However, due to the realtime nature and limitation of bandwidth, you'll see blocking or less fine details (like grass) during faster movements. Talladega Nights, if you read the reviews, have been pretty bad b/c of issues with the contrast in the movie. I think the next step for you is to go with a higher res projector and sit closer to get a better picture of the increased resolution of HD movies.

Thanks for the feedback Ja Phule, much appreciated.

I have tweaked the set-up for HD-DVD and Blu-Ray enough to get it close to my Motorolla HD-OTA material and slightly better than the SD-DVD, but this seems possible only when using the PC-gamma (which I know is totally wrong for video viewing). When using CRT or Film gamma I just can't seem to get a picture that I am satisfied with. On SD-DVD, I use the Film gamma, AVIA calibration disc and have a gorgeous picture, really very satisfying and damn near "HD" in appearance with the right discs (even without pixel-mapping with a repaired Bravo D1). On HD-DVD (and Blu-Ray), the Film-gamma does does not look right - very dark, lacking 'punch' in the colors and on Blu-Ray it is literally unwatchable. Messing with the brightness and contrast doesn't seem to ever get close to the SD-DVD picture either; it just gets washed out looking at times.

I am not so much unhappy with the 4805's ability to display HD source material as I am disappointed in my own ability to make the BD or HD-DVD look comprably better than SD-DVD - ie. when I view HD material OTA on the 4805, I can tell a huge difference (regardless of the lack of resolution from the 4805 - which is readily apparent from my front row of seating at 1.8X width but not too bad from the back row at 2.6 X width), but the difference between my best SD-DVD picture and the HD-DVD/Blu-Ray is not anywhere near as compelling. This is probably simply a matter of the nature of film vs. HD-video as you said - I have been similarly disappointed with HD movies on satellite (HDNet Movies, TNT-HD, Voom).

The one thing I fail to understand though is that the demos of Blu-Ray and HD-DVD I have seen playing in retail stores DO impress me, much the same as the HD-OTA on the 4805 still impresses me. I just can't seem to replicate that PQ at home on the 4805 (resolution not withstanding). I would expect that if I moved my seating distance back from the front row at 1.8X to the back row at 2.6X that the lack of resolution would not be as big a deal (much like it is with the OTA stuff).

I am getting very close to 2,000 hours on my original 4805 bulb (owned it for 2 years now, but it was out of service for 5 months during construction on my theater room and basement). I am really torn on whether or not to upgrade from the 4805 (which I love) to an Optoma HD70 when the bulb goes out. I guess that decision will be made when the IF bulb actually does go out, but it seems likely that I am going to have to face either a temporary upgrade to 720p - and then another upgrade in a couple years to 1080p FP; or a "stay the course" mentality, of living with the 4805's limitations until the 1080p projectors are more in line with my budget. As anyone reading these forums knows, the "prudent" course or the "patient" course is an extremely difficult one for those of us infected with the HT upgrade virus - I am convinced that it is more addictive than crack!

Ja Phule

01-02-07, 12:20 PM

moostache2

01-02-07, 03:25 PM

moostache2,
Reading your original post, you mentioned you were using the gains/offsets settings. You should only be using those for DVI/HDMI, so your picture settings might not be correct using those settings in addition to more tweaking of the contrast/brightness via component. Set gains/offsets back to 50/50 then go back and do your brightness/contrast again.

It may be that film in HD just isn't satisfying enough for you, especially if films from over OTA/cable HD doesn't look good in your eyes but HDTV recorded broadcasts do. I'm guessing if you watched some of those HDNet HD DVD discs they may look much better for you also.

Are those HD demos you are seeing in stores of films also? Demos can be a little deceiving. I remember when Blu-Ray was showing off their demos before Blu-Ray was released, the Click trailer was a very popular demo. The Click BD disc out now and from reviews, shows some noise in the picture.

The Gains/Offsets are used with the M1-to-DVI output on the HD-OTA Motorolla Voom box. I'll have to double check the settings on my component inputs because I am not sure they are running with the gains/offsets adjusted or not. I thought they switched over in the saved settings when I changed sources.

I currently run the following inputs:
Motorolla OTA HD receiver -----> DVI output to M1 input on 4805 (using the 30' cable from monoprice)

PS3 / XB360 + HD-DVD / DVD (Denon DVM1805) ---> components run to Pscylone 4:1 switch ----> component output to Pioneer VSX914 ----> component input on 4805.

I don't bother with S-video or Composite cables even though both were wired to the projector when I consturcted the room.

I am going to switch the OTA box over to components and move the PS3 to HDMI using a DVI-to-HDMI adapter on the M1-to-DVI cable I already have. One thing I am still holding out hope for is that the all digital path will allow the PS3's Blu-Ray to be as impressive on the 4805 as the Motorolla already is. I am pretty much SOL on teh HD-DVD side of life with my current set-up. The 360 does not offer any HDMI or DVI output at all, and to date I still have not heard of any adapters or MS-issued cables that would change this situation...

As for the demos that visually look compelling to me - they are the in-store demo clips of movies on both Blu-ray and HD-DVD drives (the ones the manufatcurers give to the retailers). For example, on the HD-DVD side there are clips from Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire, Batman Begins, Dukes of Hazard and others. The Blu-Ray demos are also of movies (I'm pretty sure that Pirates of the Caribbean 2 was one of the clips I saw), but also has some other live-action stuff from HD video sources thrown in as well (details on aspect ratios and such).

The other big difference is that they are almost all running on 1080p display devices too...of course, when I say "compelling" I mean that they are very comprable to what I am already used to seeing on the 4805 via the M1/DVI input...

On another note, and this is almost certianly covered elsewhere - why will the 4805 show that it accepts a 1080p signal from the XB360 - on component cables no less? I did not think that the 4805 supported 1080p inputs.... It also shows this for the PS3, but when movie playback is initiated the display INFO reverts to 1080i in both cases.

Ja Phule

01-02-07, 10:46 PM

On another note, and this is almost certianly covered elsewhere - why will the 4805 show that it accepts a 1080p signal from the XB360 - on component cables no less? I did not think that the 4805 supported 1080p inputs.... It also shows this for the PS3, but when movie playback is initiated the display INFO reverts to 1080i in both cases.

Yup, it seems that the 4805 does indeed support 1080p over component. I guess no one had much access to 1080p component capable devices that were able to test it on until recently. AACS rules for Blu-Ray and HD DVD only allow a maximum of 1080i via component, you will have to use vga or dvi/hdmi if you want 1080p. It shouldn't matter too much on the 4805 though.

spyder696969

01-02-07, 10:47 PM

Something that might interest you...I watched a HD demo disc in Best Buy once and they were supposedly showing a comparison between SD and HD DVDs. The screen was split, with "HD" on one side and "SD" on the other. They had artificially grained and blurred the SD side so badly, it looked worse than any VHS tape I'd ever seen, thus making the "HD" material look 1000X "better".

If you ever get a chance to grab a remote and check the settings of the store displays, the contrast, color, and everything else you can think of is so ridiculously far off spec it will make you sick. Never trust what you see in a commercial chain like BB, CC, or the like.

DarrenLMP3

01-02-07, 11:21 PM

I have mine on the ceiling and noticed alot of light coming out after i replaced my Lamp. I just replaced my lamp and noticed 2 things. One is the light coming out the front opposite of the lens and the other is a dark area on the right side of the screen. You can see some dust partials in there also. I have a pic. Can this be from the lamp? I didnt get it at Infocus.

spyder696969

01-03-07, 12:43 AM

...a dark area on the right side of the screen. You can see some dust partials in there also. I have a pic. Can this be from the lamp? I didnt get it at Infocus.
It wouldn't matter where you got the lamp. You have a light-tunnel issue.

Luis Gabriel Gerena

01-03-07, 12:57 AM

rreynold

01-03-07, 08:21 AM

Sadly, to get the Blu-Ray (Taladega Nights, fed through component cables - only one I have so far, my HDMI adapter for the M1-to-DVI cable should arrive later this week) to look even passable, I have to feed the 4805 a native 1080i signal - for some reason, the PS3 will NOT send 720p to the projector instead downressing to 480p on any setting other than 1080i -and then use the PC gamma setting and 58/31 gains/offsets (28.5 seems too dark to me, even if it is the popularly accepted norm on the AVS forums). Using any other gamma settings results in a god-awful mess.

Incredibly, the PS3 does not include a hardware scaler, which could account for some of your problems with it. This is discussed today in an interesting article on Ars Technica comparing the 360 to PS3.

DarrenLMP3

01-03-07, 11:47 AM

Would removing the lens and cleaning as illustrated in the dust blob cleaning section area? Would that help?

spyder696969

01-03-07, 12:13 PM

Would removing the lens and cleaning as illustrated in the dust blob cleaning section area? Would that help?
No. Again, you have a light tunnel issue. The light tunnel is four little mirrors inside the unit, all held together with a bit of glue. It falls apart sometimes, leaving a situation like yours. You can either;

learn to live with it, but it will get worse...

send it to InFocus for service, who will fix it free if it's under warantee, or charge you far more than the PJ is worth if it is not...

or try to fix it yourself. Here's a start:
http://www.willswebdesign.com/sp4805/sp4805.htm

DarrenLMP3

01-03-07, 05:19 PM

Well, Thank you so much for your replies and help! I have an RMA to send it back. I called infocus about 2 weeks ago because i had no picture. Lamp wouldn't strike. The guy said buy a lamp and see if it works. if not not send it in. Well, bought the lamp and it works, but i have that **** on the side. I'm just sending it in and hope for the best! I was on the last week of my warranty.

spyder696969

01-03-07, 05:34 PM

Darren,
Since you just barely bought the lamp, I'd hold onto it before shipping the unit (assuming you bought the lamp new) since IF will sometimes swap units. Just a thought. Let us know how it goes. Glad we caught the problem before the warantee is up and saved you hundreds of bucks! :)

DarrenLMP3

01-03-07, 06:48 PM

Ok, so what do you recommend i do?
1. send it in with no lamp
2. send it in with the blown lamp
3. send it in with my new lamp

marjen

01-03-07, 07:03 PM

Ihad the light tube issue myself. I sent it back to infocus the wednsday before christmas and just got it back today so it was exactly two weeks. The only bad part of the process was the 75 minutes on hold waiting to talk to support to set up the repair. This was a day after I waited 90 minutes before having to hang up.

spyder696969

01-03-07, 07:24 PM

Ok, so what do you recommend i do?
1. send it in with no lamp
2. send it in with the blown lamp
3. send it in with my new lamp

Darren,

I have sent you a PM. Check your messages and get back to me.

mrpergo

01-03-07, 07:39 PM

marjen I sent an Email to Tech support this morning about the light tube issue I just started to see and with in hours they sent me an RMA ticket.
Did you have to talk to a service person after they received it?
Just wondering. My warranty will be up in March so I want to get this thing in shape before that runs out.
I also have the slight buzz saw noise at start up sometimes that I told them about.
I'm gonna send mine in Friday morning. I hope I have it back for the SuperBowl.

DarrenLMP3

01-03-07, 08:06 PM

Has anybody sent Their projector in for warranty work and ended up getting hit with a bill from Infocus? Also, After packing my PJ in the original box, i found the packing slip on the side of the box unopened. I opened it up and it says it has a 3 year warranty. I bought this PJ from ShopAtHomeTV. It is their slip that says 3 year warranty. IF told me 2 years

MurphyAgain

01-04-07, 07:28 AM

Ok, so what do you recommend i do?
1. send it in with no lamp
2. send it in with the blown lamp
3. send it in with my new lamp

this a good question i to have a light tube issue and RMA is all set .

should i send it back with the bulb in it ?
I am a bit worried about shipping the bulb fearing a bumpy ride .

Thanks for anyones Quick response as i have it all boxed up ready to go but would like some info before hand.

cheers

eolhc

01-04-07, 07:46 AM

I have seen that "demo".... what a lame way to make a case for HD.... I love my HD but damn they make dvd look obviously bad.

this is another example of making dvd picture look much worse than it is, when hd is resized down to dvd res it looks good but dvd is not this bad
http://www.cornbread.org/FOTRCompare/index.html

spyder696969

01-04-07, 12:07 PM

this is another example of making dvd picture look much worse than it is, when hd is resized down to dvd res it looks good but dvd is not this bad
http://www.cornbread.org/FOTRCompare/index.html
The BB store demo was about 20X more exaggerated than what's shown on that site, just to give you an idea of how awful and ridiculous it really is. :eek:

I've seen that site you linked to before, and it shouldn't be called an example of resolution differences at all, more of examples of photshopping skills with contrast, color, and brightness. Hell, they're often not even the same frame. :confused:

forklifter

01-04-07, 09:15 PM

I too have come to the end or getting close anyway to the end of my bulb life close to 3000 hours. I had the light tube issue fixed in Sept. and also one board was replaced dont remember which one now. I cant decide whether to buy a new bulb for 300 plus dollars spend another 89 for the one year warranty or upgrade. I love the 4805 and I was wondering what other issues it has as it ages. I would hate to spend the money for a new bulb and have someother issue come up since it is now off warranty. I know in the end the decision is mine but I would like to hear from others on what if any issues may come up with the 4805

fokker83

01-05-07, 11:07 AM

What could be the cause of Fuse 501 to blow? :confused:

fokker83

01-05-07, 11:09 AM

I was sondering if anyone knows the value of resistors R523 & R524. They fried and I need to replace them.

MTN.GUY

01-05-07, 11:12 AM

Can anyone tell me if light leaking out of the front of the projector around the vents is normal?

mbroder

01-05-07, 12:01 PM

Can anyone tell me if light leaking out of the front of the projector around the vents is normal?

Yes. If it's ceiling mounted, you will see a patch of light on the ceiling in front and to the left of the lens. It 's really not distracting once you are used to it and it doesn't effect the picture.

avsfreack

01-05-07, 12:36 PM

so i have had my 4805 for a year now give or take a week
the thing is great, works just fine
i bought a bulb replacement warranty for 3 years from butterflyphoto when i bought the projector and now am wondering how i can get the most out of the money i paid
as i said, the projector works fine but i dont know if the quality of the image has decreased over the year since (i assume) the change in bulb quality decreased very slowly. i figured my eyes just probably got used to the picture.

anyone know what the usual toll is that the bulb takes over the year? how much the quality actually decreases? i have been pretty good about powering the device on and off (no quick restarts or whatever).

moostache2

01-05-07, 12:40 PM

For anyone following along, I had real disappointment with the performance of my HD-DVD add-on and my PS3 with the 4805. I am happy to report that patience, better cables and adding HDMI to the PS3 has made a significant difference.

While the 4805 is only 480p native, just as it does a great job handling HD material, it can also look quite stunning on the new HD-optical media as well. (And without having to resort to the PC gamma either!

PS3 ---> HDMI (out) ---> HDMI - DVI adapter -----> DVI-to-M1 cable ----> SP4805
That set-up actually does a great job and even a crap movie like Taladega Nights actually had some stunning visual clarity (though that particular BD transfer seems to be all over the map). Some of the shot of the cars in the night race scene were gorgeous and a very significant improvement to my eyes over the PS3 running on components. Highly recommended that if you couple a PS3 with the 4805, you get the necessary adapters to run it via its HDMI output. No HDCP issues were experienced on games or movies with the PS3 and the 4805 - used an adapter from partsexpress, but monoprice has them even cheaper...

Now, if the rumors of the XB360 having a new version released featuring a 120 GB HDD and an HDMI output are true, I will need to get an HDMI-switching receiver....damn shame that MS did not at least build in digital output through the existing 360 architecture....

MTN.GUY

01-05-07, 05:04 PM

Thank you MBRODER!

Notti

01-05-07, 05:09 PM

moostache2,
I'm glad things are looking better. I'm impressed by 4805's ability to display HD and will be staying with it till more HD/BR DVD titles are available. Getting more HD sources is a better upgrade to me than getting a higher resolution monitor.

As it has been mentioned, the "Talladega Nights" BR DVD is known for poor PQ. Sony did a major disservice by including it with PS3. Please head over to the BR software threads to check good titles if you haven't.

MTN.GUY

01-05-07, 05:49 PM

Is this what I need for my projector ? Ebay Item number: 7628688729

blaise99

01-06-07, 02:54 AM

Sorry if this has been discussed. Couldn't find it searching. Just got a 3:1 Atlona DVI switch. Trying to switch between Comcast (moto) DVR and Mac Mini. Switch supposedly supports up to 1080p @ 60Hz. The switch seems to downscale the image to 480p. Can't get the 4805 to go back up to 720p for the DVR. Any thoughts? Also the 4805 seems to have a sensing problem that won't recognize the DVR after displaying the Mac and vice versa. Will DVI switches just not work with the 4805, or is there something else to try? Am I better off using a DVI/Component adapter for the Mac?

cavu

01-06-07, 03:26 AM

The switch seems to downscale the image to 480p. Can't get the 4805 to go back up to 720p for the DVR.It appears the switch isn't HDCP compatible and, because the DVR can't do an HDCP-handshake with the 4805 through the switch, the DVR is dropping to 480p.

blaise99

01-06-07, 02:37 PM

It appears the switch isn't HDCP compatible and, because the DVR can't do an HDCP-handshake with the 4805 through the switch, the DVR is dropping to 480p.

Thanks, cavu. If I find a HDCP compliant switch, will it likely not only solve the downscale problem, but also solve the sensing problem (mac mini doesn't think a display is connected)?

uv_halo

01-08-07, 09:11 PM

Hey all.

I have a 1:1 Mapping issue and I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced a similar problem. My system is a pentium 4 with a BFG 6600GTOC (drivers v93.71) and windows MCE.

First, I've seen several people on this board refer to using cr4v880 to generate the video settings. However, when I use this program to generate the settings for 854x480 @ 48Hz. This results in the following numbers:

23712,856,8,80,88,1032,0,48,480,1,3,10,494,0,24470784
If you notice, the system generates the settings not for what I asked but, 856x480 instead.

The only way I could get the numbers for 854x480 @ 48Hz is to let it generate the numbers for 856x480 and then go into the tweak panel, turn off the multiple of 8 checkbox, change the resolution to 854x480 and go back to the main page. This results in the following:

23712,854,44,128,84,1110,0,48,480,1,3,10,494,0,26320000

Once this was done, I used the old-style Nvidia control panel to program to put the setting in (after powerstrip conversion) and I confirmed that it was working at this resolution through the projector's info page. The desktop and windows were very sharp and clear.
However when I put in the Avia disk to tune it. The very first thing I noticed is that all of the subjects in the picture (i.e. the man introducing the video) had colored false shadows that would appear very offset from the subject and eventually snap into proper position as if the colors were catching up to the subjects.
This continued at 60Hz, and finally behaving normally at 72Hz.

Any idea on how to get this to work at 48Hz?

cavu

01-08-07, 10:04 PM

The only way I could get the numbers for 854x480 @ 48Hz is to let it generate the numbers for 856x480 and then go into the tweak panel, turn off the multiple of 8 checkbox, change the resolution to 854x480 and go back to the main page. That is correct.

BTW, when we speak of the nominal rates 48, 60 and 72Hz, we really mean 48/1.001=47.95, 60/1.001=59.94 and 72/1.001=71.93Hz

uv_halo

01-08-07, 10:52 PM

Oops, I failed to mention that. Thanks.

I hope that there's a solution to making it work at 47.95...

judsonp

01-09-07, 10:20 AM

cavu

01-09-07, 02:27 PM

Do any of you guys have an SP4805 with a burned out lamp??

I am looking for a SP4805 lamp assembly for an experiment. :cool:

I'll gladly pay costs!

mijoeldotor

01-09-07, 07:44 PM

Cavu, does your lamp burned out? How many hours on it??

cavu

01-09-07, 08:04 PM

Cavu, does your lamp burned out? How many hours on it??My lamp suddenly went very dim before Christmas after 4800+ hours. It was replaced by InFocus under my 3-year lamp warranty. I had to exchange the old lamp for the new one, so I am still looking for a burned-out lamp assembly for an experiment with an alternate light source.

mijoeldotor

01-09-07, 08:35 PM

My lamp suddenly went very dim before Christmas after 4800+ hours. It was replaced by InFocus under my 3-year lamp warranty. I had to exchange the old lamp for the new one, so I am still looking for a burned-out lamp assembly for an experiment with an alternate light source.

Nice performance! There are many 4805 owners, surely you will have that burn-out lamp. I hope your invention help us to reduce the lamp replacement cost!!

judsonp

01-09-07, 09:25 PM

I posted this in the HTPC forum but wanted to post it here too.

Here is the original Post (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9393658&&#post9393658)

Basically since this problem is happening when the computer posts it seems like it is a hardware problem. I have a monoprice DVI to M1 cable. Could this be bad? The problem goes away at 47.xx hz? So I don't think it is that.

What else am I missing? I am getting ready to wipe the disk and start over but I'm not sure that this is going to fix the problem.

OK, I was able to do some more testing. Using the vga to M1 cable that came with the projector everything is fine. In fact while testing I had only a crt monitor connected I was able to get the latest nVidia drivers loaded while before I could only get 84.21 drivers loaded. I also updated the firmware on the 4805 to the latest.
Now for some reason I can't get the DVI to M1 cable to sync at all. It just acts like nothing is even connected.
Does this mean there is a problem with the cable? Perhaps a problem with the M1 port.
Any help you guys could offer would be really appreciated!

mario2butts

01-09-07, 11:39 PM

Hi everyone. First I would like to thank everyone here for the great wealth of info found in this thread and its predecessor. Thanks to this forum I am now a happy 4805 owner.

I am satisfied with the projector for the most part but there's one nagging issue I haven't yet resolved. You see, I have a Bravo D1 hooked up via DVI-D using a DVI-D to M1 adapter I got from pacific custom cable. I also frequently play my Sega Dreamcast via VGA using the VGA to M1 cable that came with the PJ. The thing is I have to swap cables frequently between DVI-D and VGA, which gets really annoying especially since the cable swapping jiggles the pj so I have to realign it, or my screen, constantly (the pj is ceiling mounted). I've been trying find some sort of solution that will let me connect both the D1 and the Dreamcast without cable swapping but all attempts have failed. First I got an adapter from ramelectronics that was listed as a "DVI-I to M1 adapter" and a DVI-I to DVI-D + VGA breakout cable; The D1 worked fine via DVI-D but VGA didn't work at all. Retuned those, and got an M1 to dual DVI-I splitter from pacific custom cable; both sources appear as a garbled mess on screen with the projector reporting seemingly random resolutions (I used a VGA to DVI-A dongle to plug the Dreamcast VGA into one of the splitter's DVI-I ports). Again, they work fine when plugged in individually... but the cable swapping!! argh

So has anyone figured how to connect both DVI-D and VGA to the 4805's M1 port?? It seems like it would be simple but I am out of ideas. I appreciate any insights, and sorry for the long post.

mdwags

01-10-07, 06:41 PM

Everybody whines about InFocus bulbs. I spent $89 on the extended bulb warranty and I have a new bulb after my first year. Hasn't anyone read of the warranty?

I've read the warranty and i'm still confused about how it works. My projector is under the original factory warranty until Oct 2007 but the original lamp warranty ran out about a year ago. Right now, today, 1/10/2007, my projector is under warranty but my bulb is not.

To purchase an extended warranty, InFocus states the the original warranty period cannot have expired. Does this mean i can no longer purchase an extended bulb warranty but can still purchase a general extended warranty to cover the rest of the projector?

Anyone have experience here?

Thanks.

spyder696969

01-10-07, 06:44 PM

Does this mean i can no longer purchase an extended bulb warranty but can still purchase a general extended warranty to cover the rest of the projector?
Yes.

billymac

01-10-07, 08:36 PM

vttom

01-11-07, 09:13 AM

why not run your vga through the component inputs. if they're already used, you can pickup a component switch. from basic to fancy pants with a remote. that's probably your only option.Except for the fact that component video is not the same thing as VGA with different connectors. The "color space" is all different (YCrCb vs. RGB). That being said, perhaps the 4805 has a mode switch I'm not aware of that switches between YCrCb and RGB over the component input?

Another alternative would be to buy a stand-alone VGA to Component Video "transcoder". I think you can find such a thing for $50 if you look hard enough.

Edit: I just checked the manual. There is, in fact, a color space setting on the 4805. In fact, there is an auto-sense mode. So, give that a try, if you can find the right cable.

mario2butts

01-11-07, 12:44 PM

Except for the fact that component video is not the same thing as VGA with different connectors. The "color space" is all different (YCrCb vs. RGB). That being said, perhaps the 4805 has a mode switch I'm not aware of that switches between YCrCb and RGB over the component input?

Another alternative would be to buy a stand-alone VGA to Component Video "transcoder". I think you can find such a thing for $50 if you look hard enough.

Edit: I just checked the manual. There is, in fact, a color space setting on the 4805. In fact, there is an auto-sense mode. So, give that a try, if you can find the right cable.Interesting, I didn't realize the 4805 could accept RGB over the component inputs. So, does this mean I could use something like this (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10235&cs_id=1023503&p_id=2409&seq=1&format=2&style=), making sure the color space over the component connections is set to RGB? That would rock if it worked, but what about the sync signals? I thought VGA carried H-sync and V-sync in addition to RGB? Would I need some kind of sync stripper? Thanks so much for all the input, guys.

vttom

01-11-07, 02:46 PM

Interesting, I didn't realize the 4805 could accept RGB over the component inputs. So, does this mean I could use something like this (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10235&cs_id=1023503&p_id=2409&seq=1&format=2&style=), making sure the color space over the component connections is set to RGB? That would rock if it worked, but what about the sync signals? I thought VGA carried H-sync and V-sync in addition to RGB? Would I need some kind of sync stripper? Thanks so much for all the input, guys.I presume that the source needs to use "sync on green". It might be doing that already. You could test for it if you could cobble together a cable and take eth Green pin out of the source into the "Y" component video input. If the PJ shows a picture, then there's sync. If not, then you'll have to find something that combines the G, H, &V signals to get sync-on-green.

Edit: I found that the Sega Dreamcast has separate sync as well as composite sync outputs, along with the R, G, and B outputs. If you're in the mood to build a custom cable, then these might be of some help...

http://www.hardwarebook.info/Sega_Dreamcast_A/V
http://www.raphnet.net/electronique/sync-on-green/sync-on-green_en.php

nizzle

01-11-07, 03:22 PM

cavu

01-11-07, 06:34 PM

give that a try, if you can find the right cable.Duh ... InFocus :rolleyes: VESA to Component Adapter
Availability: Usually ships next business day
Part Number: SP-VESA-ADPT-R (http://store.infocus.com/escalate/store/DetailPage?pls=infocus&bc=infocus&pc=SP-VESA-ADPT-R&tab=desc&clist=017080322b69:017080322b6b&ret=Accessories-Cables+and+Adapters&pls5catname=Accessories-Cables+and+Adapters)
Our Price: $19.00http://a1364.g.akamai.net/v/1364/9194/12h/images.escalate.com/images/products/if90119/000/000/000000788.jpg

Ja Phule

01-11-07, 08:03 PM

Hi All,

I have had my 4805 for 2+ years now with no issues at all (except a dust blob in the middle of the screen). Now when it starts up there is a loud whine from the color wheel. It goes away.. but seems to be getting worse. Can this be fixed.. or is it time to upgrade?

Thanks in advance

It can be fixed by sending it in to Infocus if you're still under warranty, but it doesn't seem like you are (unless you got an extended warranty). I've had the wheel whine for awhile now but it only happens sometimes and I haven't had it much lately. It's gotten worse for some people, but not me personally.

espo1972

01-11-07, 09:02 PM

PS3 ---> HDMI (out) ---> HDMI - DVI adapter -----> DVI-to-M1 cable ----> SP4805
That set-up actually does a great job and even a crap movie like Taladega Nights actually had some stunning visual clarity (though that particular BD transfer seems to be all over the map). Some of the shot of the cars in the night race scene were gorgeous and a very significant improvement to my eyes over the PS3 running on components. Highly recommended that if you couple a PS3 with the 4805, you get the necessary adapters to run it via its HDMI output. No HDCP issues were experienced on games or movies with the PS3 and the 4805 - used an adapter from partsexpress, but monoprice has them even cheaper....

moostache2,

what resolution was the PS3 running over HDMI? I have a PS3 and X360. On both, I can get 1080p via component cables. I switched to HDMI through my Yamaha RX-2700, but the 4805 won't decode 1080p. I've tried different cables and directly feeding the PS3 to the projector. All I get is a blue screen with some lines. Best I can do via HDMI is 1080i...720p works fine also.

The only reason I care is blue ray movies only can send 1080p signal over HDMI, not over component.

So has anyone gotton 1080p to work over HDMI?

Thanks in advance!!

spyder696969

01-11-07, 09:18 PM

...when it starts up there is a loud whine from the color wheel. It goes away.. but seems to be getting worse. Can this be fixed.. or is it time to upgrade?
You could try a color wheel cleaning (which you should do anyway at your likely hours) or run the Pj on high power for 5-10 minutes. It sometimes works. Good luck.

dinode

01-12-07, 10:16 AM

I've hooked up my 4805 for the first time last night via HDMI using a 25' Monoprice HDMI to M1 cable. The issue is that it wouldn't sync at all using a Toshiba HD-A1 DVD player. The player would say "HDMI ERROR" after trying to boot up. I then tried the HDMI output of a Denon 3910 and I did get a picture but it tended to "jump" and stutter and then would default to a 3/4 picture with scroll lines to the right. If I hit picture resize it would work for a while (still with jumping and stuttering) but then back to the 3/4 picture.

Am I doing something wrong? Other than the stuttering the picture looks great.

nizzle

01-12-07, 05:27 PM

So I read goop's 'dust blob cleaning' post, and it was very helpful.

I did everything very carefully and correct up to the part where I was blowing the dust blob off of the mirror. At this point I decided to turn my compressed air can on its side to reach into the lens compartment a little better.... gently squeezed the trigger.. and successfully squirted the freon (or whatever liquid is in the can) all over the mirror.

Thinking the pj was now useless, I decided to go ahead and try and clean the mirror.. even though I know you are not suppose to touch the thing at all. I grabbed some q-tips and windex and gently brushed the mirror over and over until all of the mess was removed from the mirror (about an hour).

Put it all back together, crossed fingers, turned it on, and I'll be damned if my picture wasn't perfect.. and all 4 dust blobs were gone.

So the moral to the story is that your 4805 is tougher then you may think.. and can survive even the most bonehead of moves.

conchchowder

01-13-07, 11:40 PM

I've hooked up my 4805 for the first time last night via HDMI using a 25' Monoprice HDMI to M1 cable....Am I doing something wrong? Other than the stuttering the picture looks great.
I read the owners manual for the A-1 and found this...

Notes
...
HDMI is an evolving technology, so it is possible that some devices may not operate properly with this player.
Switching output signals (Switching to HDMI output and setting the resolution)
Turn on the player ( page 28) before you confi gure the following setting.

but worse of all..
Note about audio capabilities
Dolby Digital Plus and DTS-HD (DTS core only)
capability limited to 5.1 channels.
DTS-HD processing of DTS core only. Full DTS-HD is
not supported.
Dolby True HD processing for two channels only.
Limited to 5.1 channels? ok, The ability of an HD player to output more than the core of the DTS signal would be the ONLY reason to upgrade to an HD player as the RESOLUTION of the 4805 is only ED. I am a bit confused as to their statement on 5.1 as it should be able to pass 6.1 to non-HD decoding receivers. I know for sure I wouldn't get a player capa ble of less than 6.1 as my system is 7.1. With 7.1 decoded and input to my receiver, it will simply amplify the input to the 8 speakers (Dolby True HD (lossless) and DTS=HD). I really enjoy the extra sound field. You really can tell the difference. I use Power DVD 7 most of the time because it gives a warmer field as WMP 11 stutters on playback. The change in sound can be heard dramatically when switching from Dolby 5.1 to DTS 6.1 in Top Gun...especially in the first few minutes of the movie.
check out the DTS site for content and info
Good luck in solbing your problem

conchchowder

01-13-07, 11:49 PM

After 4,800+ hours :eek: the lamp finally dimmed dramatically

InFocus are Fedexing me a new lamp under my 3-year lamp warranty :p

It will be interesting to see how much brighter the new lamp will be! After the initial 100hr drop it seemed pretty consistent until now. I only took the ND2 off about 1,000hrs ago.

I bought the warranty as well. I scratch my head at people who buy new 4805's and don't get the warranty and then whine about the price of a new lamp.

Ja Phule

01-14-07, 03:05 AM

I read the owners manual for the A-1 and found this...

Notes
...
HDMI is an evolving technology, so it is possible that some devices may not operate properly with this player.
Switching output signals (Switching to HDMI output and setting the resolution)
Turn on the player ( page 28) before you confi gure the following setting.

but worse of all..
Note about audio capabilities
Dolby Digital Plus and DTS-HD (DTS core only)
capability limited to 5.1 channels.
DTS-HD processing of DTS core only. Full DTS-HD is
not supported.
Dolby True HD processing for two channels only.
Limited to 5.1 channels? ok, The ability of an HD player to output more than the core of the DTS signal would be the ONLY reason to upgrade to an HD player as the RESOLUTION of the 4805 is only ED. I am a bit confused as to their statement on 5.1 as it should be able to pass 6.1 to non-HD decoding receivers. I know for sure I wouldn't get a player capa ble of less than 6.1 as my system is 7.1. With 7.1 decoded and input to my receiver, it will simply amplify the input to the 8 speakers (Dolby True HD (lossless) and DTS=HD). I really enjoy the extra sound field. You really can tell the difference. I use Power DVD 7 most of the time because it gives a warmer field as WMP 11 stutters on playback. The change in sound can be heard dramatically when switching from Dolby 5.1 to DTS 6.1 in Top Gun...especially in the first few minutes of the movie.
check out the DTS site for content and info
Good luck in solbing your problem

Be sure you have the latest firmware for the A1 (2.0 last time I checked). See if that fixes your HDMI problems. I've only used my player via components to the 4805 to avoid the headaches I've read about with HDMI.

As for audio, I believe it means that the player can only decode the advance formats to 5.1. The regular DD and DTS (es ex whatever) should be able to be sent over optical/coax to the receiver to decode to 5.1/6.1/7.1. The player will only output 5.1 for DD+ and Dolby TrueHD via its 5.1 analog or through PCM via HDMI.

espo1972

01-14-07, 08:57 PM

sgibson

01-14-07, 09:25 PM

Spongeworthy

01-15-07, 04:36 PM

After 4,800+ hours :eek: the lamp finally dimmed dramatically

InFocus are Fedexing me a new lamp under my 3-year lamp warranty :p

It will be interesting to see how much brighter the new lamp will be! After the initial 100hr drop it seemed pretty consistent until now. I only took the ND2 off about 1,000hrs ago.I'm at 3,540 hours right now, and it seems that my lamp is also dimming dramatically. Still not bad, but noticeable.

I've got the CircuitCity warranty and I'll call them tomorrow. We'll see what happens.

Cavu, how much a difference did you notice with your new bulb?

cavu

01-15-07, 04:39 PM

Cavu, how much a difference did you notice with your new bulb?Certainly "brighter" but I wasn't knocked over! :eek:

Omaha_Phil

01-15-07, 05:03 PM

The fan in my 4805 (3 years old now) has started running very loud. It's been cleaned out fairly recently so I doubt that's the issue. Thoughts? Suggestions to correct? Thanks in advance.

jas722

01-15-07, 05:23 PM

I looked over this thread but can't seem to find any answers to my questions so here it goes.

I have an Oppo dvd upconverting player that I use via DVI to M1 for upconverting my dvd movies and I have always thought it looked great.

But I just bought a HD dvd player add on for the 360 which is connected via Component. I was comparing the oppo upconvert of Goodfellas vs the HD dvd version, I found they looked pretty similar which I guess is to be expected since the 4805 is only 480p. But I noticed that the HD DVD was much brighter than the regular dvd. I'm wondering if someone can post their settings for both the inputs ?

I changed the settings when I first purchased this projector about a year ago, as found on the FAQ's or prob the first version of this thread. I will see if I can power it up later tonight and post my settings.

Xylon

01-15-07, 05:44 PM

The fan in my 4805 (3 years old now) has started running very loud. It's been cleaned out fairly recently so I doubt that's the issue. Thoughts? Suggestions to correct? Thanks in advance.

Nothing you can do with the noise. No amount of cleaning can remove that. Its time to get a much quieter PJ.

Ja Phule

01-15-07, 09:07 PM

mijoeldotor

01-15-07, 09:17 PM

Hi, Ja Phule.
is it worth for you going from the Oppo 971 to the HD A1?.

Brian I Am

01-15-07, 09:57 PM

Well of course... I just got my new receiver hooked up about a week ago for my HT. And now the 4805's large cooling fan died. I was able to pull it out, replaced it with another 12VDC fan and still no good. I read BrianIam's thread who had the same problem. The fan does get some power, but not enough to get it running. Could be a blown capacitor or transitor in the fan controller.

Anyway, I found a great deal on the IN72 so I figure I'll replace it rather than repair it.

I have 2 questions though:
1. Will the same ceiling mount fit on the IN72 that was on the 4805?
2. do both projectors use the same bulb?

I probably could search and find these answers, but I'm too stressed at the moment (I didn't get to watch any NFL playoffs on the PJ).

Thanks for any help in advance!

1, I think the mounting holes are different....so if you have a fixed plate and not universal mount, I don't think so.
2, No, different SKUS.

Sorry to hear yours ended up with the same fate as mine...still have not decided what to do with mine...was going to let a local repair guy play with it for fun just to see what the real failure is but have not gotten around to it...will keep you posted.

Let us know how you like the IN72. I have been recommending it to friends as it does seem like a great deal now.

I went with a Panasonic AX100 and I am pretty underwhelmed at the moment. Im still tweaking of course, but I was really surprised at the marginal amount of difference on HD material. Should have realized Im a DLP guy at heart. :(