Thanks for your response Ja Phule, Its a pretty amazing difference. It has me wondering if I should upgrade to a 720p projector now or wait for the 1080p projectors to drop in price.

I would like to hear from anyone that upgraded from the 4805 and their thoughts.

The Optoma HD70 seems like a good budget 720p projector and has just about the same offset as the 4805. But I'm wondering if I should just wait save and in the meantime enjoy the HD dvds on the 4805.

Thanks

Based on my experience....I would want to see the 720 first before committing. Maybe find a vendor with a liberal return policy if you cant see one in action.
Ja is of course totally correct about the color. The additional color info presented is every bit as noticeable as the extra "sharpness" of the image. Your seating distance will have a bigger effect on the resolution, so take that into account before deciding on 720 vs 1080

Hi, Ja Phule.
is it worth for you going from the Oppo 971 to the HD A1?.

IMO, yes. I only paid $100 more for my RCA HD DVD player. Worth it in the fact that it can play HD DVD (assuming you're willing to take the jump into the format war). My Oppo doesn't get much use anymore in all honesty. However, I don't fire up the 4805 as much as I used to anymore since I've invested in an lcd hdtv for most of my viewing in the mean time.

Sorry to hear yours ended up with the same fate as mine...still have not decided what to do with mine...was going to let a local repair guy play with it for fun just to see what the real failure is but have not gotten around to it...will keep you posted.

I did have an idea today. Radio shack sells a 12VAC to 12VDC transformer. I'm going to cut off the plug and connect the wires to the fan. I'll just run the wires through one of the rear vents. As long as the transformer is plugged in, the fan will run.

I'm still going to get the IN72, but at least I'll have a back-up should something go wrong with it.

Keep me informed on how yours makes out, I'll post my results tomorrow, hopefully!

Nothing you can do with the noise. No amount of cleaning can remove that. Its time to get a much quieter PJ.

:(

The fan in my 4805 (3 years old now) has started running very loud. It's been cleaned out fairly recently so I doubt that's the issue. Thoughts? Suggestions to correct? Thanks in advance.
Have any environmental conditions changed? Has the PJ been moved? Something else?

Have any environmental conditions changed? Has the PJ been moved? Something else?

None. It's in the same place it's been since I bought it.

Hello,

Can someone explain to me why I get a terrible picture on my 4805 when my HD-DVD player is set to 1080i, but a great picture when it is set to 720p? I thought 1080i was suppose to be better for HD-DVD's...? Does the 4805 have problems with the interlaced signal?

Thanks

None. It's in the same place it's been since I bought it.
Hmmm...maybe try tricking the unit. Put it into high-power mode for 5-15 minutes, then switch back. Tell us if you distinctly hear a difference in the fan speed. Or, maybe it already got accidentally swapped to high-power somehow without you noticing?

...I've invested in an lcd hdtv...

High on crack, brainwashed, or lost your memory? ;)

I don't think anything will make me go back to "conventional" TV again. Next step for me is hologram! :D

Hello,

Can someone explain to me why I get a terrible picture on my 4805 when my HD-DVD player is set to 1080i, but a great picture when it is set to 720p? I thought 1080i was suppose to be better for HD-DVD's...? Does the 4805 have problems with the interlaced signal?

Thanks

How is it horrible?

Don't know why 720 looks better, but the 4805 downscales whether you use 1080i or 720p, so you're probably not missing anything.

Can the SP4805er who contacted me by email asking about calibration please try again with PrivateMessage - neither of my mailservers will send to AOL.

For everyone else - is a calibration review of a several years old SP4805 of interest? It has a cleaned colorwheel and a quickly burned in lamp thanks to FinalFantasy XII :D It is amazing how noticeably lamps decay when you put that many hours on that fast! My demo unit was never as good at contrast as the cherry pick DaGamePimp got - but it is typical - marketed contrast with white peaking 100.

For everyone else - is a calibration review of a several years old SP4805 of interest?
I'd be interested to see it in detail.

Krasmuzik,

I would definitely like to see you do this review.

If anyone is interested, I'm getting my feet a little wet and performed my own greyscale calibration (use that term loosely) on my 1400 hour 4805 using an Eye-One Display sensor running off ColorHCFR software.

One notable.

The 6500K preset was running closer to 5500k with the DVI defaults with a significant lack of blue across the board.

I ended up adjusting from the 7500K preset as this got me a little closer to 6500 without significant secondary color error as evidenced using the 9500K preset.

The CIE chart primaries is very close to what cine4home measure but my red is a little deeper.

Gamma is very linear with an average of 2.19.

Hugh2 check the calibration forum - someone just posted that how you use that sensor makes a difference. Generally off-lens is more accurate than off-screen - but it depends how the sensors are calibrated and how the software is configuring them. Low IRE deviations are normal with these sensors.

My SP4805 was excess green - hitting 6500K but within 10% of D65. What I found from my sales stock was there is no consistency as far as which color direction they were <10% off on. You should be using dE plots not 6500K plots for that reason. OK I see the next plot has dC - same thing without considering gamma dL deviations which it has none anyways - the scale on that plot is rather misleading though - looks like a huge error at 80% when it is just unperceivable bump in the measure.

Also if your software has CIEuv rather CIExy charts - that is closer to what you see (more specifically u*v* rather than u'v') - but I noticed as the lamp aged the reds got deeper towards HD rather than SD - on mine the green hue is correct just pale -but others have leaned towards yellow. Oh well I guess I just gave away the review :D

Adjusting 7500K is the trick that tweaked DaGamePimps more than most - but it all depends on individual lamps if that will be best or not.

Lacking blue is unusual since lamps are naturally cyan especially as they age. Have you cleaned your colorwheel lately? All that crud can push it yellow....

Yeh, I think that was me who made the post in calibration forum, or at least one of them.

Greyscale tracks to D65 with the worst error at 80% with corresponding DE of 2.39 approx. The other grays plot near exactly D65 with DE of about .5. Sorry for the consufion I missed typed the attachment, that isn't DC it is DE plot.

I clean my wheel every few hundred hours, not sure why but there's quite a film on it every time. I was able to measure pre and post cleaning two night ago as I figured this might the cause of my lack of blue, the wheel again was hazed, there are measureable differences post cleaning but that wasn't the cause for the lack of blue.

I'm still tryng to sort out the sensors diffusor/no diffusor issues, but presently the image looks absolutely amazing.

Here's my gamma plot, I'll post the pre/post cleaning results later tonight.

Yes I can flip to the ciecuv chart which is what I primarily view in but I uploaded the 1936 as this is what everyone familar with.

With 1600 hours on my 4805, I just noticed my first dust blobs. With a black screen, I saw 3 large cloud-like spots and I'm assuming that's what it is.

Before I go searching back through the thread for dust blob cleaning solutions, I thought I'd ask if there any recent developments as to the conventional wisdom for attacking this problem.

I have little to add except use the back end of a standard sized jigsaw blade to access the tabs to remove the front and back cover, they are the perfect size to fit through the grills and strong enough to pry down the tabs with ease. Use a strong flash light to locate the tabs inside the grill. I've also found that a butter knife is the perfect tool for leveraging off the zoom and focus rings without leaving a mark.

moostache2,

what resolution was the PS3 running over HDMI? I have a PS3 and X360. On both, I can get 1080p via component cables. I switched to HDMI through my Yamaha RX-2700, but the 4805 won't decode 1080p. I've tried different cables and directly feeding the PS3 to the projector. All I get is a blue screen with some lines. Best I can do via HDMI is 1080i...720p works fine also.

The only reason I care is blue ray movies only can send 1080p signal over HDMI, not over component.

So has anyone gotton 1080p to work over HDMI?

Thanks in advance!!
Sorry for the lag in response....I've been busy lately...

I can get 1080i over HDMI from the PS3 and on the 360, the only thing that the projector reports as 1080p is the dashboard on XBL. As soon as I start a game or movie, the 360 defaults back to 1080i.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

(NOTE - what follows is a sort of conversation with myself that is talking me into upgrading my 4805. It may or may not be interesting reading for oteher 4805 owners on the fence, so read on at your own risk, with a grain of salt and that in mind....)

I have been utterly thrilled with my SP4805 for the last 2 years. I have put 2,100 hours on the bulb and I still think that the image quality on DVD from anything over 1.8X screen width is the best I have seen. But now I have "hit the wall" so to speak...Blu-Ray and HD-DVD and the XB360 and PS3 all rely heavily on resolution to produce some of their "wow" factor. I can't get that out of the 4805...I can get an image, and if I sit further back I can even get a great OTA-HDTV image and an excellent optical-format HD image, but I just can't get the same "wow" factor from the front seats.

It started to become clear when I purchase an XBox360 in April of 2006. The games all looked great, and they certainly looked a lot better than my PS2 and XB1 games on the 4805, but somethign always nagged at the corners of my mind - they did NOT look as sharp and as clear as the kiosks and other set-ups I had seen on displays in stores and places like my brother's - Sony 57" DLP RP-HDTV, native 720p.

It was getting more and more apparent when I got the HD-DVD add-on for the 360 and was not as "bowled over" or "knocked out" or even "impressed" by the King Kong HD-DVD. I could see some scenes that looked really nice, and better than the DVD copy I had, but I was not seeign what people were raving about in opther forums and other threads. The limitations of the 4805, and my own acceptance of them, starting to become a trend...

Last night I decided to run a little non-scientific experiment.
I re-calibrated my HD-DVD add-on with a couple different THX-optimode patterns (used Cars, Star Wars Episode III and The Incredibles) and then ran "Black Hawk Down" on DVD on it (running over component cables at 480p - the 360 really does have a pretty decent video processor on board in my experience).

I then synched up my Blu-Ray copy of "Black Hawk Down" (running over HDMI->DVI->M1 at 1080i). I had both copies running in real-time with the audio from the 360 playing but matching the video of the PS3. This allowed me to simply A<-->B the images by switching input modes from component to computer (HDMI) on the 4805 during viewing. I watched nearly the entire film this way - switching from DVD to BD and back again and allowing my eyes to re-adjust after the source switching.

Several things became very readily apparent to me:
(Some final notes on set-up and viewing conditions - total light control in dedicated basement theater room. 2100 lamp hours, filters cleaned last two weeks ago. Components calibrated to Contrast at 43, Brightness at 36, Gamma = FILM. HDMI was using the RGB Gains/Offsets at 57/28 and Gamma = FILM and later at PC. (The PC setting seems to push everything red by a good amount, although surprisingly, the image is not unwatchable to me and after watching it for a short while, switching back to FILM gamma begins to look washed out and pale (even when directly compared to FILM gamma on DVD source material - it is an odd phenomenon to be sure - but to my eyes, the PC-gamma on HDMI looks better than the FILM-gamma on HDMI when using the RGB gains/offsets).

Front row seating is some 13 feet back from a 100" image (87" wide) - putting it at 1.8X screen width; second row seating is 16 feet or 2.2X screen width. In general, on OTA-HDTV, I find that the image degrades quite noticeably in the front row - very pixiliated at times and easily discernible pixel grid. The set-up can display the HD image, but the smoothness is rough from the get-go in the first row...the second row makes it a much more pleasing image obviously at the expense of immersion. From my back row, the OT-HD signal is better than what I get on my 2002-model 65" Samsung CRT RP-HDTV in my family room - possibly because I just like the DLP image more. Whatever the reason, OTA-HDTV (from a Motorola VOOM set-top box) is very, very good on the SP4805. The front row seats are a battle for how much image pixellation one can tolerate , but to non-videophiles, they are stunned by the image and rarely notice the things about it that can drive a HT-nut bag like me crazy...

1) the DVD video was amazingly good; quite simply, DVD at its best. The image the HD-DVD add-on produced was every bit the rival of my Denon DVM-1805 stand alone DVD changer (which to my eyes has been the best DVD player I have owned and married to the 4805). There were times when it became hard to tell the difference between Blu-Ray and DVD in select scenes. The picture quality was stunning, and the 5.1 DD from the 360 was engaging and well balanced.

2) Blu-Ray and the SP4805 are NOT nearly as good a marriage as DVD and the 4805. The BD picture quality was only slightly better than DVD - and most of this was from the color space I believe. The image seemed to have better detail, but it was not "knock-you-on-your-ass-"WHOA!" better....the example I like to use for that is the difference between an NFL game in SD vs. an NFL game in HD. That was my overblown expectation for BD and HD-DVD versus DVD. That seems impossible to achieve on the SP4805 due to the inherent limitations of a native 480p unit. It is disappointing on many levels - but probably most because of my finally accepting (and far worse for a HT-nut with the upgrade fever bug - SEEING) the limitations that I have been able to accept for the past 2-years.

3) The situation was exasperated as I moved my seating location back - the differences between BD and DVD became harder to identify when I was seated at 2.2 X screen width. It again came down to the color reproduction (and the fact that I am "eye-ball" calibrating the PS3 more than likely) - and quite possibly to messing around with the gamma settings and just preferring the over-emphasized reds in a movie that has a lot of bluish hues in it to begin with....

The end result though was again, me being amazed at how well the 4805 handled the DVD material, and how close to the HD-content it was visually on my set-up (perhaps a clear indication that when using a good DVD source and the 4805, you are actually getting pretty damn close to the absolute most out of the system?). Of course, what it is really showing is that to get the most out of Blu-Ray or HD-DVD, a 480p native projector is going to struggle. When I bought it, the 4805 wowed me, it literally floored me at how good the images looked, and to this day I still have not seen something beat it on SD-DVD. But now, my viewing habits and sources are shifting to much more HD material and less SD material and by the end of next year, SD will be a distant minority of my viewing and projector use.

4) The BD's uncompressed PCM 5.1 soundtrack is waaaaaaay better than the DD 5.1 soundtrack. It was amazing how much better that sound was - how much more it filled the room and utilized the rear channels and surrounds. The Dolby Digital soundtrack actually seemed much quieter by direct comparison.

The long and the short of it is that having upgraded my source material over the past year (Xb360 first, then HD-DVD add-on, then PS3 for BD) I am becoming acutely aware of the limitations of my display. These limitations were something I could live with for a long time, in fact I have enjoyed playing the XB360 for the last 9 months and was STILL awed by the graphics in games like Gears of War, GRAW, Madden football, Tiger Woods golf and even the Battlefield 2 update that came out last spring. I was able to quiet the upgrade beast and remain David Banner.... for a while.....but now.....? Now, with the introduction of HD-DVD and Blu-Ray, I am finding it harder to subdue the beast. Hulk hungry....Hulk want more resolution....Hulk want yesterday....

....I've been busy lately...
And yet not too busy to post a novella. ;)

You need to upgrade right away. It sounds as though you have plenty of cash to do it, what with seeming to have the need to own every new toy in the book. What's stopping you? :confused:

I was watching a technical commentary soundtrack - and they were talking about digital intermediate rather than making negatives for dailys. They were dissing on the HD format they used - saying 2K was better for the widescreen - but they really should have done 4K because they certainly could see a crispness difference and allowed more room for processing. But even then they needed more bit depth because film has a wider range of F-stops. After all that they desaturated the color and added film grain to the digital to make it more real....

Boys with their toys never ends - just the budget changes....

And yet not too busy to post a novella. ;)

You need to upgrade right away. It sounds as though you have plenty of cash to do it, what with seeming to have the need to own every new toy in the book. What's stopping you? :confused:
LOL...yeah, I am a total junkie for this stuff.

What's stopping me? 4 kids, possibility of a fifith looming, a wife and a stack of bills from the 2006 buying binge basically..... :o

Aside from THAT, I would certainly be all over the upgrade. :D

On a more serious note, the one thing that keeps me from just immediately jumping in and upgrading to the HD1000U or the HD70 yesterday is a nagging feeling that even an upgrade to 720p native will leave me a bit disappointed in HD-DVD and Blu-Ray. I am just going through the same process I did 3 years ago when I decided to get into Front Projection. Back then the decision was between a $1500 480p projector or a $4000 720p one. I went back and forth for months about it before finally reading enough raves on the 4805 to jump in. Once I did, and I found that the images it gave on DVD were stunning and that the OTA-HD signals I could get on it were also exceptional, I was able to stay the demons for a while. The "honeymoon" period lasted the somewhat typical 18 months or so...

Now, as anyone who is into HT gear will know from experience, I have caught myself in a negative feedback loop - I staretd to nit-pick the details and stopped enjoying the movies or games because the little details (a bit of blur here, some pixellation there) began to get more and more promounced in my eyes. What was once something that I overlooked, or never even noticed, and just lost myself in the movie or game; I now start incessantly tweaking and obsessing and comparing.... "Good enough" is now "annoying as hell"... :rolleyes:


Back when the original decision was made to go with the cheaper 480p projector versus the much more expensive 720p models, it seemed like a Chinese water torture test! But eventually I knew that my majority of viewing was done on DVD and low-res PS2 games, so the added resolution would not have made much difference. Now I have more HD-content than SD-content on the docket and it ultimately makes sense to get the upgrade out of the way....only the question has morphed from "480p native vs. 720p native" to "720p native to 1080p native".

I had been so happy with the 4805 and its image on DVD and OTA-HD (I STILL love the picture I can get off the thing for DVDs and football games!) that not seeing the same level of improvement from DVD to HD-DVD/Blu-Ray that I do see on SD-OTA/DVD to HD-OTA was a watershed moment. It triggered this itch to "fix" the problem - which is throwing more resolution on the screen! Throw in the impending bulb replacement (which will be the first time I have ever faced THAT demon - whether or not to sink the bulb replacement cost into an older unit or into the cost of an upgrade....) and it is a potent combination for sure!

I know damn well that I have already thought and talked myself into the insatiable upgrade-urge, I just have to work around to the compromise point between self-satisfaction and the number of days fighting with the wife the purcahse will cause (especially in light of the other recent purchases)... :p

On a more serious note, the one thing that keeps me from just immediately jumping in and upgrading to the HD1000U or the HD70 yesterday is a nagging feeling that even an upgrade to 720p native will leave me a bit disappointed in HD-DVD and Blu-Ray. I am just going through the same process I did 3 years ago when I decided to get into Front Projection. Back then the decision was between a $1500 480p projector or a $4000 720p one. I went back and forth for months about it before finally reading enough raves on the 4805 to jump in. Once I did, and I found that the images it gave on DVD were stunning and that the OTA-HD signals I could get on it were also exceptional, I was able to stay the demons for a while. The "honeymoon" period lasted the somewhat typical 18 months or so...


I have had a 4805 for the last 14 months. Loved every minute of it. We decided to sell our house and with the slow housing market I decided to let the 4805 go with the old house. The new owners loved it! Then I was faced with a decision. I had planned to to 720p and buy the IN76, but then I got really interested in constant height (CH for a 2.35 setup). With what I am spending on an anamorphic lens and a 2.35:1 screen, I decided to go with a In72. Okay, let me explain...I had budgeted for the In76 and wanted 720p, but I felt that it wouldn't be good enough in a year or two and then I would want 1080p. So, I have decided to go with the cheap 480p for the first CH setup, and then add a better projector in a year or two...y'know when the lamp needs replaced...these decisions can be really tough...

Rod319

moostache2 - Do you know for a fact that a 780p or 1080p projector and Blue-Ray would give you that "wow" factor you're looking for? I just wonder if your disappointment with the picture is more a result of Blue-Ray (or HD-DVD -- I'm not taking sides here) not being as impressive as you had hoped? Just wondering.

-Dan

LOL...yeah, I am a total junkie for this stuff.

What's stopping me? 4 kids, possibility of a fifith looming, a wife and a stack of bills from the 2006 buying binge basically..... :o

Aside from THAT, I would certainly be all over the upgrade. :D
...
I know damn well that I have already thought and talked myself into the insatiable upgrade-urge, I just have to work around to the compromise point between self-satisfaction and the number of days fighting with the wife the purcahse will cause (especially in light of the other recent purchases)... :p
Well, seems to me you have 2 choices:

Choice one is to cure yourself of the upgrade disease and learn to be content and happy with what you've got, which is still far more than most people have, and I'm not talking about just AV stuff here. Stop obsessing over resolution on your display and make a resolution to spend more time with your 4 kids. Stop worrying about PQ and think more about QT with the family. Forget about jaggies and think more about getting "jiggy" with the wife rather than fighting. In short, concern yourself less with the PS3/360/BR/HD-DVD/4805/HD70 and all those damned numbers and letters associated with AV gear and more about the number of quality minutes you get with the family and the letters you get from the loving kids that can never be replaced by material things.

Choice two is to sate a fleeting and selfish desire that is obviously costing you more than just money.

Maybe that sounds harsh or oversimplistic, but given the fact that you've stated the financial reasons and alluded to the distress it causes with the wife concerning purchases, it might just be the hard truth. It reminds me of too many WoW and EverQuest stories of dispair. Personally, that's what I'm getting at with my signature and my title. AV gear and other things should be enjoyed by/with the family, but never, ever at the expense of them.

Please don't take this as passing judgement or nagging, but as words of advice. Sometimes we all need to step back and think about what's really important, rather than what just seems to be. Good luck to not just you, moostache2, but to all my fellow AVS members, at finding and maintaining that harmony in your lives.

How is it horrible?


The picture is extremely dark and funky looking on 1080i through the HD-DVD player(xbox 360 player). I have to turn the brightness all the way up to get a decent pic.

If the output is set to 720p I get a fine picture. Maybe it is the player/xbox, and not the 4805.

I guess I will just leave it on 720p and be happy....

I just purchased a 4805 and am enjoying it so far. Still waiting on a ceiling mount, which will be in on Mon (thanks to this forum found a mount on monoprice that was cheaper than it would have been to build one), so it's table mounted. I've found a big difference between DVDs. Some are definately better than other! I'm running it off a laptop right now since I don't have a sound system or a DVD player for my home theater (temporary of course!). It is 11ft from a 70" screen and even at full zoom I cannot manage to get it to fill it...hopefully when I mount it up on the ceiling it will be better??

I'm thinking of the following setup and I'd like your input!

DVD player, HDMI, to the DVI port on the 4805.
Computer VGA connector to a splitter and to my monitor and then to an adapter to the component inputs.
N64 game system to the composite inputs (or should I do a s-video adapter??).

This is a 10x12 room and I'm considering a ~200watt 5.1 sound system and the cheapest HDMI-output DVD player I can find.

Any suggestions? I love this projector!

(ps: this is my first home theater setup)

Well, seems to me you have 2 choices:

Choice one is to cure yourself of the upgrade disease and learn to be content and happy with what you've got, which is still far more than most people have, and I'm not talking about just AV stuff here. Stop obsessing over resolution on your display and make a resolution to spend more time with your 4 kids. Stop worrying about PQ and think more about QT with the family. Forget about jaggies and think more about getting "jiggy" with the wife rather than fighting. In short, concern yourself less with the PS3/360/BR/HD-DVD/4805/HD70 and all those damned numbers and letters associated with AV gear and more about the number of quality minutes you get with the family and the letters you get from the loving kids that can never be replaced by material things.

Choice two is to sate a fleeting and selfish desire that is obviously costing you more than just money.

Maybe that sounds harsh or oversimplistic, but given the fact that you've stated the financial reasons and alluded to the distress it causes with the wife concerning purchases, it might just be the hard truth. It reminds me of too many WoW and EverQuest stories of dispair. Personally, that's what I'm getting at with my signature and my title. AV gear and other things should be enjoyed by/with the family, but never, ever at the expense of them.

Please don't take this as passing judgement or nagging, but as words of advice. Sometimes we all need to step back and think about what's really important, rather than what just seems to be. Good luck to not just you, moostache2, but to all my fellow AVS members, at finding and maintaining that harmony in your lives.
Whoa....you're not going to start chanting now are you? :p

This is still just a place to come and share random thoughts on AV stuff, not really a place to hear the rehashed Sunday surmons, n'est pas? :confused:

Free forum of course, and certainly you have every right to express an opinion in said forum; but assuming that I do not appreciate things I have, or the people in my life, especially my children, is well outside the bounds of a general forum posting in my mind. Last I checked, private messages or e-mail were still functional parts of this place...and even at that, whether intentional or not, making such bold statements about a perfect stranger is a touch obnoxious.

Sorry that the emoticons were not enough to clue you in that this was not 100% serious when talking about my wife and kids...or relating a lengthy story about mental gymnastics involved in upgrading equipment sometimes was an indictment of personal responsibility in the AV enthusiast community at large....

moostache2 - Do you know for a fact that a 780p or 1080p projector and Blue-Ray would give you that "wow" factor you're looking for? I just wonder if your disappointment with the picture is more a result of Blue-Ray (or HD-DVD -- I'm not taking sides here) not being as impressive as you had hoped? Just wondering.

-Dan
That is kind of the point, much more succinctly put than my own ramblings...

I am NOT 100% certain that a 720p machine would provide that elusive poicture quality that floats around in my mind's eye...its entirely possible that BD and HD-DVD are just goign to leave me a bit cold in the end regardless...which is pretty much why I would consider a $900 investment in a 720p unit versus a $3000+ investment in a 1080p unit a safer bet. Throw in some fairly liberal return policies from some of the site sponsors above and that eliminates some of the risk of buyer's remorse...

I just purchased a 4805 and am enjoying it so far. Still waiting on a ceiling mount, which will be in on Mon (thanks to this forum found a mount on monoprice that was cheaper than it would have been to build one), so it's table mounted. I've found a big difference between DVDs. Some are definately better than other! I'm running it off a laptop right now since I don't have a sound system or a DVD player for my home theater (temporary of course!). It is 11ft from a 70" screen and even at full zoom I cannot manage to get it to fill it...hopefully when I mount it up on the ceiling it will be better??

I'm thinking of the following setup and I'd like your input!

DVD player, HDMI, to the DVI port on the 4805.
Computer VGA connector to a splitter and to my monitor and then to an adapter to the component inputs.
N64 game system to the composite inputs (or should I do a s-video adapter??).

This is a 10x12 room and I'm considering a ~200watt 5.1 sound system and the cheapest HDMI-output DVD player I can find.

Any suggestions? I love this projector!

(ps: this is my first home theater setup)
Congrats on the projector, I am sure you will find the 4805 to be fantastic for the inputs you describe.

A word of caution on the DVI assumption, the 4805 has an M1 input and not the standard DVI. This could be a cabling issue if you bought the wrong stuff...

Best wishes on your set-up...

Whoa....you're not going to start chanting now are you? ....
Sorry, moostache. I guess I'm just having a hard time understanding having the time/money to spend premium prices on every electronic gadget the moment they're released and 4 kids all at the same time, yet struggling with a PJ upgrade that seems to be an insatiable need of yours. I never meant to imply you were neglecting anyone, just that you either need to just go get a 1080p unit right now so you can be happy and fill that apparent void or occupy your thoughts on other things like family and forget the "need" to upgrade. I only have 1 child and it seems I can never spend enough time with him...which, in turn, keeps me immune to upgrade-itis. I guess you're more capable of multi-tasking than myself. :o Good on ya. :)

I started to nit-pick the details and stopped enjoying the movies or games because the little details (a bit of blur here, some pixellation there) began to get more and more pronounced in my eyes. What was once something that I overlooked, or never even noticed, and just lost myself in the movie or game; I now start incessantly tweaking and obsessing and comparing.... "Good enough" is now "annoying as hell"... :rolleyes:

. . .

Now I have more HD-content than SD-content on the docket and it ultimately makes sense to get the upgrade out of the way....only the question has morphed from "480p native vs. 720p native" to "720p native to 1080p native".Are you aware of this thread in the more expensive forum? http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=767929&highlight=shootout
Bottom line -- very, VERY hard to tell the difference between 720 and 1080, even when very close. If you really have the upgrade bug, 720 is a cheap and enduring fix.

As far as the tweaking, you KNOW that you are spending more time on your equipment than you are on the stuff you play through it. I've been there (in my audiophile days). That is a path to the dark side. I finally rebelled. My advice: STOP! Love the movies, music . . . whatever . . . that you play through it. DON'T love your equipment. It's just a tool for providing that enjoyment.

Moostache, thanks for the warning! I'll double check that my cable is going to work. Otherwise I'm probably going to get a VGA extension cable and run the computer into the M1/DVI port (like I'm doing now) and run component from the DVD player.

One more question: I've heard alot of complaints on this forum about the firmware upgrades. My firmware is still 1.0.2, should I upgrade? A few people actually downgraded! What is best?

Fortunately I have the usb cable that came with the projector (brand new in its package, the original owner never used it I guess).

Moostache, thanks for the warning! I'll double check that my cable is going to work. Otherwise I'm probably going to get a VGA extension cable and run the computer into the M1/DVI port (like I'm doing now) and run component from the DVD player.

One more question: I've heard alot of complaints on this forum about the firmware upgrades. My firmware is still 1.0.2, should I upgrade? A few people actually downgraded! What is best?

Fortunately I have the usb cable that came with the projector (brand new in its package, the original owner never used it I guess).
I am not sure what the updated firmware would provide...I have left mine at the default 1.0.2. the entire time I have owned it and I have not run into any problems that made me think updatign the firmware was an absolute necessity.

I am sure there are valid reasons to update the firmware, but I just don't have any examples from personl use that make me think it is absolutely necessary...

.... I would consider a $900 investment in a 720p unit versus a $3000+ investment in a 1080p unit ...


Moostache2, which $900 unit are you speaking of? I am also getting a touch of the upgrade bug for the same reasons (new hd-dvd player, etc..). I think I am sold on 720p, but am clueless as to what is available out there these days. After buying the 4805 2+ years ago I have tried to stay away from the forums(they seem to plant ideas in my head that I need new/improved stuff). This has left me in the dark as far as which projectors are the best rated among members.

Thank you

Moostache2, which $900 unit are you speaking of? I am also getting a touch of the upgrade bug for the same reasons (new hd-dvd player, etc..). I think I am sold on 720p, but am clueless as to what is available out there these days. After buying the 4805 2+ years ago I have tried to stay away from the forums(they seem to plant ideas in my head that I need new/improved stuff). This has left me in the dark as far as which projectors are the best rated among members.

Thank you
There are currently 2 <$1000 720p projectors that get a lot of attention:

Optoma HD70
Mitsubishi HD1000U

If you search this forum ($<3000 Digital Projectors) you will find tons of info on both of them....

I am leanign towards the HD1000U at the moment, but I may go with an HD70 from Circuit City as an in-home trial first....


Oh, and BTW, avoiding the forums is a GREAT idea....lol. It is usually a one-to-one correlation between reading these forums and exasberating the upgrade-bug!

nizzle,

Ask krasmuzik or anyone else that's owned a 4805 what they think about the HD70. ;) Also be prepared to put in thousands of hours trying to calibrate or just learn to live with aliens and sunburned people all the time. :mad:

HD1000U has a white segment (ugh :() 4X color wheel. Other than that glaring flaw, it doesn't seem too bad.

I would love to hear comparisons between the 4805 and HD70, since its tempting to upgrade to HD70 but if the colors aren't as good as the 4805 I would rather stay with 480p until a quality unit is released under 1k.

I would expect the HD1000 to be about the same brightness calibrated but less contrast (since you turn off the clear segment to calibrate - you would have to ink it out to improve contrast). I would suggest keeping your SP4805 long enough so that you can tweak the Mitsu to look the same - it is not bad just a few clicks off. The HD70 - is not about the same brightness or about the same contrast - it simply is not designed for calibrated performance and requires much tweaking to get there. If you have never been happy with the SP4805 because your plasma looks better - buy all means get the HD70.

If you value the hook it up and grin performance without tweaking or major loss of specs - then you need to step up to the IN76. It is nothing less than the HD SP4805 you would expect.

The other part of my post about the technical film commentary I did not get to. After the technical guys all waxed on about how they should have gone to 4K processing - the director said I would have been happy shooting it on VHS to get the look I wanted - and it cost more to do all that digiital stuff to get that look. He says since all my profits come from DVDs not film can you honestly say your spendier 4Kres would have made the DVD look better? There was about a minute of silence on the commentary next...

The point is - yes your source resolution you enjoy may have increased - yes you get a better HD than SD on your SP4805. But to take full advantage of it - you will also want to upgrade to a larger screen. So you buy something that is not as brite as your SP4805 and cannot do justice on that larger screen. So next year you are posting about dim projectors and short lived lamps and what is brighter - and you step it up again to the 1080P that is as bright. Then the next year after that - Digital Cinema 4K starts filtering down to home PJ - and you realize that the source resolution is not there on HDDVD. But 4K will cut down on SDE - so lets upgrade to that and get an even bigger screen! Then the Holographic DVD that does 4K - and you realize the HDMI port never took 4K so you need to upgrade to the light saber interconnect that promises to use worm hole technology for infinite bandwidth in version 1.5.34 next year. And on an on and on....you want to buy the new holographic screen since a decade of 2D film is getting old....

The point being made here - when the wife is bitching about you putting your toys on the credit card cause the kids need fed and clothed - step back and ask - is there some simple tweaks I can do to the SP4805 to feed my AVphile upgrade urge that is never satisfied without melting the plastic credit?

The first tweak would be take it off PC gamma- put it back on film and get out your DVE again. You are increasing the contrast of the midrange but loosing highlite and shadow detail and skewing the colors because PC was designed to pop a PowerPoint presentation in a lit room. The next tweak would be to look at the room - can you make the kids earn their dinner by painting it? Can the wife enjoy the project by sewing/shopping some drapes?

Nobody is trying to attack you for upgrading - and as someone in the HT biz - I should encourage it. But those of us that have been thru the 12-step upgrade program can recognize when we need to intervene and say put the shiny new HD-DVD back on the shelf because we know the harder drugs only come next that never do give you that same high.

Krasmusik, hi.
Thankyou,
a thousand thankyous.
Spending money is great fun, getting new toys and all that but nothing beats tweaking and messing with settings especially the disastrous ones . The sharp learning incline after a really bad stuffup is where I get my value for money.
Thanks again for the reminder.
Regards Gary

Yes I should add - if you want to learn to be a calibrator - get the HD70 :D

Boy, I leave this place for a few months and it just SPINS out of control....
stop worrying about PQ and think more about QT with the family. Forget about jaggies and think more about getting "jiggy" with the wife rather than fighting.
Umm Spyder lets give the 'stash a little credit here...FIVE kids is some pretty serious getting jiggy with it...how he had the energy after the 1st three is beyond me....
As far as the tweaking, you KNOW that you are spending more time on your equipment than you are on the stuff you play through it. I've been there (in my audiophile days). That is a path to the dark side. I finally rebelled. My advice: STOP! Love the movies, music . . . whatever . . . that you play through it. DON'T love your equipment. It's just a tool for providing that enjoyment.
I am nearly speachless here Spongeworthy (GREAT name by the way). That kind of thinking is for people who DON'T spend time on these forums. The 'stash is here because he is one of us and we embrace him and his OCD. It is not the dark side...it is OUR side. Don't tell me you don't still listen to some new soundtrack and think "oh...just 2db more at 40hz and I think that gun shot might be more crisp..." It's OK to obsess here, it's what we do. Beats the hell out of blowing up clinics or something.
Greyscale tracks to D65 with the worst error at 80% with corresponding DE of 2.39 approx. The other grays plot near exactly D65 with DE of about .5. Sorry for the consufion I missed typed the attachment, that isn't DC it is DE plot. You should be using dE plots not 6500K plots for that reason. OK I see the next plot has dC - same thing without considering gamma dL deviations which it has none anyways - the scale on that plot is rather misleading thoughNow THAT is what I am TALIN' 'BOUT! Carry on Men. :)

BV

Then the next year after that - Digital Cinema 4K starts filtering down to home PJ - and you realize that the source resolution is not there on HDDVD. But 4K will cut down on SDE - so lets upgrade to that and get an even bigger screen! Then the Holographic DVD that does 4K - and you realize the HDMI port never took 4K so you need to upgrade to the light saber interconnect that promises to use worm hole technology for infinite bandwidth in version 1.5.34 next year. And on an on and on....you want to buy the new holographic screen since a decade of 2D film is getting old....

Kras, that is, without a doubt, your very best ever. :D

...Next step for me is hologram! :D
I think I may have planted a seed in kras' mind for that last post a few pages back. ;)

Seriously, kras, you're killing me. It's a damn good thing I wasn't drinking at the time I read your Nostradamus rant, or it would have come out my nose! :D

Our next AA meeting will be held at Murphy's bar - bring your smokes... :p

Oh man perfect! An anti analyzing meeting! Im bringing my HTPC with an 8800 GTX with a 575mhz memory clock and 768 mem with a 384 bit MI and 128 unified shaders and.....and.....and.....

I miss my 4805.

Did not want to get to off topic there.

That kind of thinking is for people who DON'T spend time on these forums. The 'stash is here because he is one of us and we embrace him and his OCD. It is not the dark side...it is OUR side. Don't tell me you don't still listen to some new soundtrack and think "oh...just 2db more at 40hz and I think that gun shot might be more crisp..." It's OK to obsess here, it's what we do. Beats the hell out of blowing up clinics or something.Can't disagree with that. Just my lame attempt at an intervention. But I don't miss the days when I would spend ALL NIGHT deciding whether a half inch of toe-in on my speakers gave me a better soundstage.

After all, there's obsession, and then there's OBSESSION!!! :eek: :eek: :eek:

Can not cleaning the color wheel cause the bulb to go out or maybe something else overheating and breaking down?

I've done a lot of searches and been reading for a couple hours, theres a lot of threads similar to mine, but I haven't seen anything that exactly relates to my problem. Please forgive if this has been discussed...

For the past several months I've had the buzz saw sound that I've seen posted everywhere. I ignored it because it usually went away in a minute or so, sometimes not even occurring at all. But eventually, when I turned it on one day, I heard the normal startup beep, and the buzz saw noise booted up (which seemed normal enough), but the light never turned on. Then, the buzzing noise just suddenly shut down, as if it dropped power (not a dieing down like it usual does when it's on, loud, and then drops to a soft hum). It would then wait maybe 10seconds or so, and then as if booting up, the buzz saw would suddenly power on again real loud, run for 10 or 20 seconds, then just stop, a sudden silence, and then repeat the process. It does that about 5 times, and then the light starts blinking red. Before it blinks red however, during the 5 boots, the light just blinks a steady green. In the manual, this blink indicates a loose connection or something, but there's none I can see. I cleaned the dust filters on the side of the bulb, checked all connections, etc. With more forum searching, I've read it could be the colorwheel causing this sound... but, no one ever said the pj stopped starting up all together, people where just complaining of noises (that I've seen). So, has neglecting to clean the colorwheel for all these months caused my pj to go bad? Or the bulb to go bad (after only 1500 hrs or so)? Do I have any options besides cleaning the colorwheel (which I'll do now, but the bulb isn't turning on, so whats that mean)?

Can not cleaning the color wheel cause the bulb to go out or maybe something else overheating and breaking down?

I don't see how it could.

For what it's worth, my bulb is at 1500 hours and today I did a full clean: dust blobs, color wheel, bulb filter and dust on the fans, grill, and other areas. It got rid of the dust blobs, but I haven't noticed any other improvement.

OK guys, I"ve had a 4805 for four years now and I still love it. I took it to a buddy of mines bar and he loves it. I was talking to him today about the IN 72 and he wants me to get it for him. (with included 92 inch screen) for 599 from IN. Is he going to like this 72 even more? I hope I didn't mislead him. It will be mainly for over the air and cable or satelite programs. Yay or Nay?

[QUOTE=Jack Ferry]I don't see how it could.
QUOTE]

In that case, based on my description, anyone know of anything else that might be the problem? I haven't read about this in the forum yet (not that I can read 250 pages, but searches haven't led to anything). I emailed the tech support 5 days ago and they havent answered, so much for getting service from them. I'd call but i'm in another country :P

Hey guys,

My 4805 went down a little while ago, and I haven't had time to look into yet.
Before I do anything stupid I wanted to check here.

I have had it since last Christmas thanks to this Forum.
It has run smoothly with no problems at all. It has roughly 200+ hours on it.

Now, when I turn it on - it turns on and sounds like it typically does, but no image appears. There is nothing coming from the lamp/light source/etc.
I've consulted the minimal instruction booklet, but it hasn't helped at all.
The "power light" still lights up green (it says it would light up red if there were a problem).

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!
RC4

Bulb go boom boom :(

Hey guys,

My 4805 went down a little while ago, and I haven't had time to look into yet.
Before I do anything stupid I wanted to check here.

I have had it since last Christmas thanks to this Forum.
It has run smoothly with no problems at all. It has roughly 200+ hours on it.

Now, when I turn it on - it turns on and sounds like it typically does, but no image appears. There is nothing coming from the lamp/light source/etc.
I've consulted the minimal instruction booklet, but it hasn't helped at all.
The "power light" still lights up green (it says it would light up red if there were a problem).

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!
RC4

Maybe try reseating the bulb. Take it out and put it back in.

Maybe try reseating the bulb. Take it out and put it back in.

While you have it out, look to see if the filament is broken.

While you have it out, look to see if the filament is broken.

The lamps don't have a filament. The light is created by an electric current arcing between two electrodes!

No luck at all guys.
Everything sounds just like it always has, but there is no picture.
Like I said above - maybe 250 hours on it in it's first year.
There was never a warning or a hint of any problems, and we watched a 3 hour movie on it 2 days earlier - without a problem.

Is the next step simply to bite the bullet and get a new bulb?

Thanks again,
RC4

Oh yah - and if I am going to get a new bulb, what is the best place to find one (and best price)?

If it's something that shouldn't be posted a PM would be much appreciated! :)

No luck at all guys.
Everything sounds just like it always has, but there is no picture.
Like I said above - maybe 250 hours on it in it's first year.
There was never a warning or a hint of any problems, and we watched a 3 hour movie on it 2 days earlier - without a problem.

Is the next step simply to bite the bullet and get a new bulb?

Thanks again,
RC4

Yeah....it's unfortunate but it happens. Infocus provides a 90 day or 500 hour warranty for the case bad bulbs. I haven't seen much in discounting of bulbs as they are usually in the 300-$340 range.

Or send it in for repair thinking it is a power supply issue - then they would have to replace the bulb if the bad power supply took it out....

Has anyone heard anything about LED replacement lamps? They seem like the logical next step, even if they cost a few hundred dollars. I don't see why they couldn't be made to fit into the 4805 lamp form factor or run from the 4805 lamp power supply.

I sent my PJ to infocus due to a bad llight tunnel issue. They recieved it on the 8th of January. I check on the status everyday and it still says "in repair". I haven't recieved any e-mails or phone calls. is this normal?

I sent mine in for the light tunnel also.
They received it on the 9th of Jan. and I got it back yesterday afternoon. I hung it back on the ceiling but I haven't turned it on yet seeing its been traveling since the 19th in the cold so I'll fire it up this afternoon.
When they sent my shipping notice, I sent customer service an Email asking what was done to the PJ with no responce. The packing slip enclosed with the PJ doesn't say anything but Sceenplay 4805.Tsunami Plus so I sent an Email to techsupport and asked what was done and received an auto reply that says they'll contact me within 2 days.
I didn't receive any communications from them except when they received it and when they shipped it back

Hello All,
I will be upgrading to the HR20 and wanted to know what are the best or proper connections to my 4805. I currently have regular directv, dvd player, computer and receiver connected. I don't know about the advance techiques you all use, I just bought cables and connected up.

Also, I have been reading thru and seeing discussions about settings for the HD like 720p and 480i and the such. Please forgive my ignorance and tell me what connections and settings will produce the best picture.

Thanks :)

Hi,

I recently bought an Infocus 4805 on eBay and am very happy with it, except that I can't get a decent picture with my PAL Super Nintendo/SNES.

The problem is that the image jumps around all over the place, sometimes it appears like the image is divided up in quarters with big black lines through the midde of the screen, and other times it is a noisy image. Regardless of whether it is quartered or not the image shakes continuously and irregularly, so much so that I can't actually focus on it. I have tried turning on overscan and forcing the image source to PAL as advised by the infocus website but no joy. (I can't post the link because of the 5 post rule.) My projector is running software 1.02 which I am happy with, and having read a bit of this thread I am a bit wary of upgrading it since a lot of people seem to downgrade again. I have seen this problem once with my PAL gamecube when I had a game set to 60Hz and setting it to 50Hz made it go away, however the SNES has no option for refresh rate and I was under the impression that the PAL SNES ran at 50Hz anyway(?). The image problem is there in all games, but the quarters problem only seems to appear on the title screen for Super MarioKart for some reason (possibly coincidence).

I have both the gamecube and the SNES connected to the projector via my Denon AVR-1705 amp so that I can switch sources without pulling cables (I will try connecting up the SNES directly tonight and report back), and both are using composite cables (I know! I know!). Gamecube works fine, SNES jumps all over the place. I connected my cable TV box to the AMP with composite cables as a test and saw no problems with that.

Has anyone got any ideas why the SNES image is jumping about when the 'Cube and cable TV pictures don't, and more to the point do you have any idea how to stop it? Apologies if this is a newbie question that has been asked lots of times before but I did a google search of the site and couldn't find anything other than people cheerfully using their SNES with their 4805 units (and they didn't say whether they were PAL or North American units). Thanks!

Slan,
Cian


PS: Before you flame me for using composite cables I live in Ireland where S-Video cables are pretty-much unheard of (we have SCART instead) and gamecube component cables are going for €50 on ebay! Given that I intend on upgrading to a Wii soon I'll suffer composite for a bit longer.

PPS: I know someone is going to ask so the reason I want to play blocky SNES games on my lovely projector is that I have a soft spot for the old SNES and am prepared to ignore the jaggy graphics for some old-skool lovin'. Super MarioKart rocks! :)

I sent customer service an Email asking what was done to the PJ with no responce.
You'll never get a direct answer. IF treats all their repairs like it's a matter of national security. :confused:

You'll never get a direct answer. IF treats all their repairs like it's a matter of national security. :confused:

I wonder why that is.
I just hooked it back up and watched the natural and Pale Rider on Universal HD and the picture is just as wonderful as I remember.(two weeks without it is a long time :eek: )
They reset my lamp hours but left offsets and gains the same 58/28.5.
The light tunnel problem is gone and no little buzz saw sound at start up.
Now I'm going down to relax so more with the Gridiron Boys. Got a lot of catching up to do :D
I still hope techsupport replies to my Email with a list of what they did.
They did not send it back in my original box like I sent it to them but returned it in a plain brown box with a foam type insert. Everything was perfect and the box didn't even have a ding in it so it must be better packaging. Who knows, its just nice to have it back.

Well tech support just replied to my Email.
Here is their response.
Thank you for contacting InFocus Technical Support. With regard to your query, I understand that you wish to know the repair was done on the projector.

The below given table states that the issue was successfully duplicated and the defective light tunnel was replaced. The projector was cleaned and updated with latest version of software.The part # was 306-0095-01
It works great .

Hello All,
I will be upgrading to the HR20 and wanted to know what are the best or proper connections to my 4805. I currently have regular directv, dvd player, computer and receiver connected. I don't know about the advance techiques you all use, I just bought cables and connected up.

Also, I have been reading thru and seeing discussions about settings for the HD like 720p and 480i and the such. Please forgive my ignorance and tell me what connections and settings will produce the best picture.

Thanks :)


Welcome to the forum!

Hook up your 4805 with a M1-HDMI cable from Monoprice. Set your colorspace offsets to 58 and gains to 28 1/2. Set your 4805 aspect ratio to 16:9. Set the hr20 to 1080i. sitback and enjoy :)

Thanks for you help

Hi,

I recently bought an Infocus 4805 on eBay and am very happy with it, except that I can't get a decent picture with my PAL Super Nintendo/SNES.

The problem is that the image jumps around all over the place, sometimes it appears like the image is divided up in quarters with big black lines through the midde of the screen, and other times it is a noisy image. Regardless of whether it is quartered or not the image shakes continuously and irregularly, so much so that I can't actually focus on it. I have tried turning on overscan and forcing the image source to PAL as advised by the infocus website but no joy. (I can't post the link because of the 5 post rule.) My projector is running software 1.02 which I am happy with, and having read a bit of this thread I am a bit wary of upgrading it since a lot of people seem to downgrade again. I have seen this problem once with my PAL gamecube when I had a game set to 60Hz and setting it to 50Hz made it go away, however the SNES has no option for refresh rate and I was under the impression that the PAL SNES ran at 50Hz anyway(?). The image problem is there in all games, but the quarters problem only seems to appear on the title screen for Super MarioKart for some reason (possibly coincidence).

I have both the gamecube and the SNES connected to the projector via my Denon AVR-1705 amp so that I can switch sources without pulling cables (I will try connecting up the SNES directly tonight and report back), and both are using composite cables (I know! I know!). Gamecube works fine, SNES jumps all over the place. I connected my cable TV box to the AMP with composite cables as a test and saw no problems with that.

Has anyone got any ideas why the SNES image is jumping about when the 'Cube and cable TV pictures don't, and more to the point do you have any idea how to stop it? Apologies if this is a newbie question that has been asked lots of times before but I did a google search of the site and couldn't find anything other than people cheerfully using their SNES with their 4805 units (and they didn't say whether they were PAL or North American units). Thanks!

Slan,
Cian


PS: Before you flame me for using composite cables I live in Ireland where S-Video cables are pretty-much unheard of (we have SCART instead) and gamecube component cables are going for €50 on ebay! Given that I intend on upgrading to a Wii soon I'll suffer composite for a bit longer.

PPS: I know someone is going to ask so the reason I want to play blocky SNES games on my lovely projector is that I have a soft spot for the old SNES and am prepared to ignore the jaggy graphics for some old-skool lovin'. Super MarioKart rocks! :)

I'd try messing around with the sync threshhold on the advanced picture menu. One of my equipment that I used to use had a problem syncing with the 4805 and adjusting the sync threshhold fixed the problem for me.

I'd try messing around with the sync threshhold on the advanced picture menu. One of my equipment that I used to use had a problem syncing with the 4805 and adjusting the sync threshhold fixed the problem for me.


Excellent, I'll try that tonight!

(For the record I tried bypassing the amp and connecting the SNES directly to the projector but as you guys could probably predict didn't make any difference.)

I have just recently hit a problem with my Infocus 4805. It happen while playing Xbox live for about 1-2 hours. The first thing that happen was the screen turned completely black (stopped projecting). When I turned around to look at the projector, I noticed the light -which is usually green- was orange. I thought it was probably just overheated (Although it has never overheated before), so I tried turning it off with the remote. However, the Infocus 4805 would not respond to the remote. I had to turn off the projector with the master botton (or whatever its called) on the projector itself. After letting it cool down I turned it on again and was welcome with a weird sound- a buzzing sound..(Zzzzzz)- and it still will not respond to the remote nor project a picture on the screen....
Is it the Projector's lightbulb? The bulb -at most- has been used for 800 hours.

...Anywho, Thanks for taking time to help me out- or atleast read my message. :)

I'm trying to hook up my Wii through my manual component switcher to my InFocus 4805 projector.

When I do so I don't' get any image just a message that says "Signal out of rage"

If I hook it up directly to the projector I"m able to get the image, but unfortunately I need to be able to go through the switcher.

This is frustrating. Any ideas?

Thanks

Well scratch my question above....looks like I have a new issue.

Projector lamp won't fire up now. When I turn the projector on I just get a blinking green light for about a minute or two...then it goes to a single blinking red light. I hear little noise every 20 seconds or so like it's trying to strike the lamp but never does.

Don't think these issues are related but they could be. The bulb had about 1100 hours on it.

Any ideas on this one?

Thanks

duggerface and touchdown,

I'd recommend reseating the bulb by taking it out and putting it back in (and inspect the bulb while it's out to see if maybe it was blown). There's been a handful of times where when I power up the 4805, i get a blank screen or an odd one where i get a black screen with a bunch of large pixels on the side. Taking out the bulb and putting it back and turning it on again had the 4805 go back to normal for me.

Hello my fellow owners:

I am going to upgrade to an in76 or 78 and will be putting my 4805 up for sale on that famous auction site. the unit is in perfect condition and the bulb has less than 1200 hrs on it. I have all of the cords, manuals and the box it came in. I will even throw in a 25' monoprice component cable. What do you guys think it is worth? I have really loved this unit but I have the upgrade bug real bad and would like to get a 720 unit. you can pm me if any of you would be interested. please let me know what you think.

I'm trying to hook up my Wii through my manual component switcher to my InFocus 4805 projector.
I saw your other post and know you have other issues, but I thought I'd comment on this one. I have my Wii hooked up to my 4805 through my Denon receiver, and it works great. The 4805's 480p native resolution works really great with the Wii.

However, I have read various reports of people having problems with some component switchers and the Wii. So when you get the 4805 back up and working, try hooking up the Wii directly to the 4805 via component cables just to verify it works. Then backtrack and see if the problem is the switcher.

Also, try changing the "Sync Threshold" on your 4805. However I have to say that for me, the 4805 syncs to the Wii waaaaaaaay better than it does to my DVR.

Hope this helps, and I hope you get your bulb working!

-Dan

I have the dreaded Infocus 4805 light tunnel problem on an out of warranty projector. I am a fair technician so I think I could handle the replacement so can anyone tell me where I can purchase the light tunnel? I've searched the forum and see all the problems people have had with this issue but haven't ran across where to buy one of these. That aside, the 4805 has been a great projector. Any help would be appreciated.

Well tech support just replied to my Email.
Here is their response.
Thank you for contacting InFocus Technical Support. With regard to your query, I understand that you wish to know the repair was done on the projector.

The below given table states that the issue was successfully duplicated and the defective light tunnel was replaced. The projector was cleaned and updated with latest version of software.The part # was 306-0095-01
It works great .

The part number is above, maybe a search of that will get some results.
Most people have said they replace the whole light engine.
Good luck on your search

The part number is above, maybe a search of that will get some results.
Most people have said they replace the whole light engine.
Good luck on your search
Thanks for those numbers mrpergo. No luck yet but still looking. Any idea where I could find the complete light engine? Would like to upgare to a new projector completely but my better 2/3's says no.

Thanks for those numbers mrpergo. No luck yet but still looking. Any idea where I could find the complete light engine? Would like to upgare to a new projector completely but my better 2/3's says no.
I seem to recall a user, lynzoid, had posted a supplier for the light tunnel. Try a serarch on lynzoid's posts. I've read of several people being able to repair the light tunnel by gluing it back together.
Also, see this post by billgatesceo and several posts beyond for images of the light tunnel on an X1:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6744737#post6744737

Yesterday my projector shut down and the red led blinked 3 times, I refered to the manual and did what it said. The bulb is only 3months old with about 500hrs on it. Does anyone know what else could be wrong or what I could try besides whats in the book? Thanks

The bulb is only 3months old with about 500hrs on it.The warranty on this lamp is 90days/500hrs!!

I would try to be a little more precise in its age/hours and CALL INFOCUS IMMEDIATELY to get a warranty replacement or be prepared to pay $339.

The warranty on this lamp is 90days/500hrs!!

I would try to be a little more precise in its age/hours and CALL INFOCUS IMMEDIATELY to get a warranty replacement or be prepared to pay $339.


well I think i'm a month past on that, but I'm getting good picture before it shuts down, any ideas, i think it might be over heating but i've cleaned everything, and when it shuts down after 10 min's it feels super hot just to the touch on the outside.

I saw your other post and know you have other issues, but I thought I'd comment on this one. I have my Wii hooked up to my 4805 through my Denon receiver, and it works great. The 4805's 480p native resolution works really great with the Wii.

However, I have read various reports of people having problems with some component switchers and the Wii. So when you get the 4805 back up and working, try hooking up the Wii directly to the 4805 via component cables just to verify it works. Then backtrack and see if the problem is the switcher.

Also, try changing the "Sync Threshold" on your 4805. However I have to say that for me, the 4805 syncs to the Wii waaaaaaaay better than it does to my DVR.

Hope this helps, and I hope you get your bulb working!

-Dan

Thanks for the response. It might be the switcher and the 4805 as my X1 is working fine through the switcher. When the 4805 was working I hooked the Wii up directly and it worked.

My bulb just died on my 4805.

Just curious on what people think about moving to the IN72 instead of buying a replacement bulb on the 4805.

It looks like with some of the deals going on right now it will be about $150 more after rebate to purchase the IN72. Plus I should be able to auction off the 4805 for $200 or so I would think making it a wash.

Is the 4805 better/worse the IN72. Used mainly for cable HD viewing and 1-2 DVD's a week.

THanks

Thanks for the response. It might be the switcher and the 4805 as my X1 is working fine through the switcher. When the 4805 was working I hooked the Wii up directly and it worked.
For whatever reason, the 4805 is pretty finicky about input signals. It's the only thing about the 4805 that bugs me. My 4805 and my Moxi DVR have a love/hate relationship. Sometimes the 4805 just folds it's arms, turns its back and says "I'm not speaking with you!" So I have to lovingly feed it a juicy HD signal, and then it usually relents.

-Dan

Hello All!

I've finally got to the point in my theater construction where it's time to mount the projector!!! My question is, is there a minimum distance from the ceiling it can be mounted? I would like to get the screen as high as I can because I will have 2 rows of seating.

I am considering making my own mount. I am looking at using .125 aluminum for the mounting plate, and attaching it via a flange with 3/4" threade pipe. Then I will run the pipe into the ceiling (suspended) and into a flange that has a set screw. Does anyone see any problem with this? I have to attach a 2x6 between the joists to mount to. I will take extreme care to ensure the board is level. Then all I should have to worry abut is the projector height. I am not mounting the screen until I get the projector up and squared.

Am I going about this correctly, or am I missing the obvious?

This forum rocks!!


Griff

Mine is mounted on a 3/16" aluminum plate and the plate is about 3/8" from the ceiling. It gets hot at the ceiling but I don't think it is causing any problems. Of course it's hard to say if it will decrease my lamp life or not. I think it should be ok. It hasn't shut off from overheating or anygthing and I've run it for at least 7 if not 9 hours straight in this setup.

Good luck, and enjoy your setup however you do it.
Brian

Hi fellas. I was wondering if someone has the link for cleaning the color wheel on the 4805. I can't get to the archive thread. "Not available?" I've tried the search, but it keeps linking me to the archive. Thanks in advance. I'd like to clean before the Bowl.

Hi fellas. I was wondering if someone has the link for cleaning the color wheel on the 4805...
It's a simple process. Just remove the lamp and start cleaning with some regular cotton swabs. Most people use the common household rubbing alcohol solution, but a 3% dilution of ethanol and deionized H2O will do a better job. I did a CW cleaning with nothing other than purified tap water once and it worked great.

Just go around and around at about a 4-degree angle, from the inside of the wheel working toward the outer edge. (This angle makes the CW turn slowly on its own as you go) After about 100 revolutions, you're done. Replace your swab about once every 10 revolutions with one that is slightly more dry than the last, with the last Q-tip being completely dry for polishing. Entire job time for me was about 10 minutes.

Some obvious things to remember;
Do not get the swab too saturated or the solution will get behind the CW
Perfom the cleaning on a day you havent' used the PJ and let dry for a few hours after
Do not press too hard on the wheel or it will break
Relax, and breathe while you're doing it...it's quite easy, really

The original SuperGoop CW cleaning posts are found by clicking "Or HERE to read the archived posts or threads between 01/05 - 06/06" rather than the first archive link just above it when doing the search.

Good luck and hope this helps. :)

I've flashed the firmware on my 4805 several times and it appeared to reset the bulb hours. Is there someplace else in the unit that true bulb hours are stored? I see a service menu but not sure if that's accessible (or safe to access).

Going on 21 days for my infocus 4805 RMA and still no return .
I had image tube issues so I sent the unit in ,now I find out they don't have the necessary part to repair it .I was told I need to wait.
was hoping on a return before the Super bowl But its not looking so good.

Another great play from infocus .


What was everyone's average turn around time regarding a 4805 repair .

thanks :)

Newbie here and obviously not versed in the proper terms but here it goes.

All of a sudden our Infocus SP4805 [reman. over a year old] will not power up. When I flip the power switch nothing happens, no fan, no sound, nothing. I tested:

The outlet and power is coming through fine.
The power cord connected to the outlet, all is good.
Removed the cover and tested the screws behind where the power cord connects, all is good
I tested the cable that connects the board with the power jack to the board that has the big metal thing on it, power is getting that far.
I tested the fuse on the board that has the big metal thing on it, and power is getting there.

At this point I don't know what else to test, I didn't disassemble the projector enough to get to the system board, but any suggestion on what else I can test?

Hello All!

I've finally got to the point in my theater construction where it's time to mount the projector!!! My question is, is there a minimum distance from the ceiling it can be mounted? I would like to get the screen as high as I can because I will have 2 rows of seating.

I am considering making my own mount. I am looking at using .125 aluminum for the mounting plate, and attaching it via a flange with 3/4" threade pipe. Then I will run the pipe into the ceiling (suspended) and into a flange that has a set screw. Does anyone see any problem with this? I have to attach a 2x6 between the joists to mount to. I will take extreme care to ensure the board is level. Then all I should have to worry abut is the projector height. I am not mounting the screen until I get the projector up and squared.

Am I going about this correctly, or am I missing the obvious?

This forum rocks!!


Griff
Over in one of the DIY forums here, there's a lot of discussions about DIY mounts. If memory serves me correctly, there's a good example created by someone called "monkey_man" or maybe it's "monkeyman". Anyway, you should take a look at it, if for no other reason than to see his solution to the issue of mounting it level. You may end up not wanting to do it that way, but seeing how other people have done things can often-times give you new ideas. Good luck!

-Dan

My sp4805 is still shuting down after about 5 to 10min and it's very hot to the touch. Just before it shutsdown the fan ramps up the rpms. I've tested both fans and they seem to be running okay. Anyone have any more ideas? there is a sensor below the bulb connected to the door switch, would that maybe have anything to do with it? I found out that my pj is out of warranty so if you guys can't think of anything to help could you reccomend an upgrade model for home use. Thx

Over in one of the DIY forums here, there's a lot of discussions about DIY mounts. If memory serves me correctly, there's a good example created by someone called "monkey_man" or maybe it's "monkeyman". Anyway, you should take a look at it, if for no other reason than to see his solution to the issue of mounting it level. You may end up not wanting to do it that way, but seeing how other people have done things can often-times give you new ideas. Good luck!

-Dan


Thanx Dan!

I do remember reading about that, and yes I forgot to check the DIY forum! I'll take a look-see...

Hello All!

I've finally got to the point in my theater construction where it's time to mount the projector!!! My question is, is there a minimum distance from the ceiling it can be mounted? I would like to get the screen as high as I can because I will have 2 rows of seating.

I am considering making my own mount. I am looking at using .125 aluminum for the mounting plate, and attaching it via a flange with 3/4" threade pipe. Then I will run the pipe into the ceiling (suspended) and into a flange that has a set screw. Does anyone see any problem with this? I have to attach a 2x6 between the joists to mount to. I will take extreme care to ensure the board is level. Then all I should have to worry abut is the projector height. I am not mounting the screen until I get the projector up and squared.

Am I going about this correctly, or am I missing the obvious?

This forum rocks!!


GriffThe DIY mount you describe is almost exactly what I have done in my basement HT. The difference being that I used a piece of plywood as the plate.

I should mention that in order to get the picture where I wanted it, I actually wound up pointing my projector slightly up toward the ceiling (instead of mounting it level), and then having to do a slight keystone correction.

To the best of my knowledge, my specific issue hasn't been addressed yet in this forum...
Yes, I'm pretty sure it's a ground loop problem: scrolling horizontal band
I got my 4805 a while ago but only recently mounted it on the ceiling. While doing so, I took the trouble to (temporarily) plug everything into the same power strip to try and eliminate the problem. That didn't work.
I also turned off the computer that was plugged into the same outlet. That didn't work.
I also unplugged the coax from the cable modem which was plugged into the router which was plugged into the same outlet. That didn't work either.
Finally, I noticed something very strange: I had been watching my movies through my xbox (with audio going through my receiver - all plugged into same power strip). Every movie had the ground loop interference.
Now for the strange part: when I play games on the xbox, NO INTERFERENCE!

What can be causing the issue? The pj only has the interference lines when watching movies with the xbox, not games. (I also tried using another dvd player, no luck).

Has anyone out there run into this situation? Has anyone any thoughts that might solve my problems?

Thanks!
dan

Going on 21 days for my infocus 4805 RMA and still no return .
I had image tube issues so I sent the unit in ,now I find out they don't have the necessary part to repair it .I was told I need to wait.
was hoping on a return before the Super bowl But its not looking so good.

Another great play from infocus .


What was everyone's average turn around time regarding a 4805 repair .

thanks :)
MurphyAgain;
I sent mine in for the light tunnel. They received it on Jan 9,2007 and it was delivered back to me on Jan.23,2007 with the light tunnel replaced and cleaned.

MurphyAgain;
I sent mine in for the light tunnel. They received it on Jan 9,2007 and it was delivered back to me on Jan.23,2007 with the light tunnel replaced and cleaned.

count your blessings ,

I had to send out two units ( both 4805 ) one for light tunnel and one for color wheel and fan failure .The unit with the color wheel issue just went out a week and a half ago so I cant complain but the Other unit has been out for 21 days and I never received email notification as to its progress.I had to call and Waite on the phone for close to 35 min just to get a promised email as to its update and or a phone call,

both of these promises failed to be delivered ending my day wanting to throw darts at infocus's elite team .

To the best of my knowledge, my specific issue hasn't been addressed yet in this forum...
Yes, I'm pretty sure it's a ground loop problem: scrolling horizontal band
I got my 4805 a while ago but only recently mounted it on the ceiling. While doing so, I took the trouble to (temporarily) plug everything into the same power strip to try and eliminate the problem. That didn't work.
I also turned off the computer that was plugged into the same outlet. That didn't work.
I also unplugged the coax from the cable modem which was plugged into the router which was plugged into the same outlet. That didn't work either.
Finally, I noticed something very strange: I had been watching my movies through my xbox (with audio going through my receiver - all plugged into same power strip). Every movie had the ground loop interference.
Now for the strange part: when I play games on the xbox, NO INTERFERENCE!

What can be causing the issue? The pj only has the interference lines when watching movies with the xbox, not games. (I also tried using another dvd player, no luck).

Has anyone out there run into this situation? Has anyone any thoughts that might solve my problems?

Thanks!
dan
Ground loops can be *really* hard to find. One comment on something you said: You said you turned off the computer that was plugged into the same outlet. Just turning something off isn't enough. You have to unplug it -- power, video, audio, whatever.

When I had problems with a groud loop, I only saw them with SD material. HD material did not seem to have the ground loop. I don't know why. So maybe that's why it's different between games and DVD, for you.

The way to find ground loops is to eliminate everything, then add things back one at a time. So start with your Xbox connected directly to your PJ, and plug them both into the same outlet -- one that has nothing else plugged in. Then methodically add things back in one at a time, and be very careful not to add too much at one time.

It takes a lot of patience, and you may have more than one thing contributing to the ground loop -- that's what happened to me. I found something that caused the loop, so I thought I was done. But something else also contributed to it. So take your time and be sure you know what you've connected each time. And don't ever say "I know that's not the problem" and decide not to test something. Test EVERYTHING.

Good luck.

-Dan

The DIY mount you describe is almost exactly what I have done in my basement HT. The difference being that I used a piece of plywood as the plate.

I should mention that in order to get the picture where I wanted it, I actually wound up pointing my projector slightly up toward the ceiling (instead of mounting it level), and then having to do a slight keystone correction.



vttom,

My understanding is you want to avoid keystone if possible. My thought was if I mount the projector level all I would have to determine is the height. Is this incorrect? Why did you have to point your projector up?

I am trying to avoid keystone correction at all costs.

Let me know what you think.

Thanx!

Griff

Mine is mounted on a 3/16" aluminum plate and the plate is about 3/8" from the ceiling. It gets hot at the ceiling but I don't think it is causing any problems. Of course it's hard to say if it will decrease my lamp life or not. I think it should be ok. It hasn't shut off from overheating or anygthing and I've run it for at least 7 if not 9 hours straight in this setup.

Good luck, and enjoy your setup however you do it.
Brian


Brian,

Can I get a few more details about your mount? Did you have any problems with getting it level?

Thanx!

Griff

I will have to take some pics to make it clear how mine is mounted, but to start I can say I mounted it to the wall. I used a piece of unistrut to adjust the height and a 1/4" thick angle bracket that I can pivot side to side. The only direction I have a hard time leveling is tilting it from front to back. I will try to post some pictures later, maybe this evening. The mount works ok, but I think if I wern't renting I would go from the ceiling instead.

Sorry if I'm vague.
Brian

It takes a lot of patience, and you may have more than one thing contributing to the ground loop -- that's what happened to me. I found something that caused the loop, so I thought I was done. But something else also contributed to it. So take your time and be sure you know what you've connected each time. And don't ever say "I know that's not the problem" and decide not to test something. Test EVERYTHING.

Good luck.

-Dan


so true ,,,,, I had the same symptoms as you and it drove me NUTS ..

come the find out it was a DIMMER switch in the kitchen ( only happened when the lights were dimmed ) what a pain in da butt.

good luck

My sp4805 is still shuting down after about 5 to 10min and it's very hot to the touch. Just before it shutsdown the fan ramps up the rpms. I've tested both fans and they seem to be running okay. Anyone have any more ideas? there is a sensor below the bulb connected to the door switch, would that maybe have anything to do with it? I found out that my pj is out of warranty so if you guys can't think of anything to help could you reccomend an upgrade model for home use. Thx

How's your room temperature? Is the 4805 getting enough cool air to intake and keep the projector warm? I know in my city, it's been cold recently requiring us to use the heater more.

come the find out it was a DIMMER switch in the kitchen ( only happened when the lights were dimmed ) what a pain in da butt.
Holy crap! That must have been a real bitch. How did you finally figure it out?

-Dan

Holy crap! That must have been a real bitch. How did you finally figure it out?

-Dan

I was sitting on the couch getting ready for a new movie to start and the wife got up to make popcorn and as I was watching the screen ( and the ground loop rolling line ) I asked the wife to turn of the kitchen light before she reentered and THE LINE DISAPPEARED ,

I was so freckin happy , if I see any evidence of imperfection I cant enjoy the movie . I tend to get up and check wires connection ect ect ( I need help ) :D

It only happiness when the lights are dimmed it doesn't happen when the light are on full or off.

PJ owners beware! Dimmer switches can easily kill a bulb or the PJ itself. At the gf's work, they went through 3 units and 5 bulbs before finding out it was the dimmer causing the chaos.

PJ owners beware! Dimmer switches can easily kill a bulb or the PJ itself. At the gf's work, they went through 3 units and 5 bulbs before finding out it was the dimmer causing the chaos.

spyder

was someone trying to operate a pj using a dimmer. ??


Cheers

You mean you can't use a dimmer to adjust the lumens if they're too bright instead of a filter? :eek: ;)

They were in proximity of each other from different outlets, but I don't know if they ran on the same circuit.

I was sitting on the couch getting ready for a new movie to start and the wife got up to make popcorn and as I was watching the screen ( and the ground loop rolling line ) I asked the wife to turn of the kitchen light before she reentered and THE LINE DISAPPEARED ,

I was so freckin happy
I can just imagine it. What a rush that must have been!
... if I see any evidence of imperfection I cant enjoy the movie . I tend to get up and check wires connection ect ect ( I need help ) :D
What do you mean, you need help? Isn't this the way all of us are? Are you telling me there are some people who can watch things that aren't perfect? WHO ARE THESE PEOPLE? :rolleyes:

Actually, my wife is like this. Her blood pressure is much lower than mine. :p She's used to my stopping a movie while I work out some glitch that she couldn't care less about. This usually involves lots of "NOW what the f*#k's wrong?!" comments from me. It's probably comical, actually.

-Dan

This usually involves lots of "NOW what the f*#k's wrong?!" comments from me. It's probably comical, actually

Dan this is to funny ,


Usually when I have guests over I bight my nails when sh#t goes wrong ( or I think colors are off and such ) but when the wife's is the only one around and things go wacky she looks at me with deadly Beatty eyes
and starts threatening me
saying its no big deal ,,,,,,,,and if I stop the movie one more time she's going to KILL ME .
I fell like a heroine attic trying to fight off the monkey. It gets so bad I forget to enjoy the movie .

JUST A LITTLE TWEAK HONEY one last one . :D

I promise it will be my last .


Some times she gets up and leaves which is nice because now I can place my hand in my pants like AL BUNDY and let the burrito gas fly as I wish .

MORE COUCH FOR ME .

Griff,
This is a picture of my mount. I don't think I would incourage others to copy it. It is adjustable for height, and side to side swivle and tilt, but not front to back tilt. The only way to tip it down or up to fix the level is to bend the angle bracket, which is dificult to do with any precision. But since you asked, here is a photo.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t100/bfauska/IMG_0490.jpg

hope this helps,
Brian

edit:

I guess I also mis-spoke about the space between the projector and the ceiling, it's more like 3/4"

/\ Wow, now that's a flush-mount unit! :eek:

This is a picture of my mount.

Brian nice job ... mother of invention is based on its needs..
I think you did a great job and your idea will only grow and better other individuals needs.

of course
eventually it will be stolen then patent and sold for inflated prices by lazy asses with diddle for brains but access to great attorneys.


cheers

Brian, where did you get the wall bracket (part that bolts into the wall)? what type of bolt did you use (bolt that goes into the wall bracket to hold the L bracket)?

Griff,
This is a picture of my mount. I don't think I would incourage others to copy it. It is adjustable for height, and side to side swivle and tilt, but not front to back tilt. The only way to tip it down or up to fix the level is to bend the angle bracket, which is dificult to do with any precision. But since you asked, here is a photo.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t100/bfauska/IMG_0490.jpg

hope this helps,
Brian

edit:

I guess I also mis-spoke about the space between the projector and the ceiling, it's more like 3/4"

That's cool!

We use a lot of unistrut at work. That helps because at least now I know I can mount it close to the ceiling!!

Thanx!

Griff

The piece on the wall is indeed a 12" chunk of unistrut. I used a unistrut nut. I think you can find unistrut and nuts at Lowes and HD, but I just grabbed some scrap from work.

The feature of this mount that has the most potential to bite you in the rear, is the fact that it has to mount to the wall. I was soooo lucky in this room. With the projector zoomed so that the image was as small as it will go and my screen on the far wall, I have about 1/2" of image bleeding onto the screen border. My angle bracket is also a smidge too short, you can kind of see in the photo that my m1 connector is really crammed in there. I don't think that this mount will make another move with me, I've been well served by it so far but I just doubt that it is versitle enough to fit my needs in yet another room.

Later,
Brian

Props To ED from Infocus .

I have a total of 4 projectors in my hose ( two IN72 and two 4805's) two of the 4805's needed repair one had Image tube issues and the other color wheel squeal.

Well with the big game coming up I usually lend out my extra units to my buddies so they can enjoy the game with a big screen.

I sent in one quit a while a go and one only a week and a half ago ,

I spent all morning on the phone for the past Three days Speaking to INDIA INFOCUS customer support ( that's always fun ) .

Finally after explaining my situation I was transferred to Ed at infocus .He showed compassions as to my dilemma regarding the need of the units for the BIG game and offered me a Refurbished exchange due to the longevity of repair time from lack of parts.

The unit I would be swapping for a referb 4805 was my bedroom unit .It had 1700 hours on it and I just replaced the bulb with a brand new one ( less then 3 hours on it ) .
I have had some bad luck with in reburbed 4805 as the one I got had three bad pixels and I was told to basically live with it .(I took for ever to straiten that mess out ).

But Ed did give me his extension and assured me I would not experience the same with the this refured 4805 and if I did he would gladly take care of it .
One good note is my warrantee expired the day I sent it in and after explaining this to ed he stated all refurbed units come with a 90 day warrantee on the bulb and unit ( not bad when I had nothing left on my old one ).

I just hope the bulb I get is at least equal to my new bulb I just replaced.

Hope the referb lives up to its promise and I'm very happy I will be getting it before the big game starts.

Thanks ED ( from infocus )

Cheers :)
Murphy

...But Ed did give me his extension and assured me I would not experience the same with the this refured 4805 and if I did he would gladly take care of it ...

Murphy

And that is your cue to say if the refurb does go wonky I want one of those IN72! :p

I fell like a heroine attic trying to fight off the monkey.
That's a great line! It explains it pretty well.
JUST A LITTLE TWEAK HONEY one last one . :D

I promise it will be my last .

Some times she gets up and leaves which is nice because now I can place my hand in my pants like AL BUNDY and let the burrito gas fly as I wish.
Just more evidence that I have the greatest wife in the world. She understands about the monkey mentioned above, and best of all, she doesn't mind when I fart. In fact, she laughs!

-Dan

And that is your cue to say if the refurb does go wonky I want one of those IN72! :p
wonky??? That's a new one to me. :)

wonky??? That's a new one to me.Either you live under a rock or spend to much with the many wives! :DMain Entry: won·ky
Pronunciation: 'wä[ng]-kE
Function: adjective
Inflected Form(s): won·ki·er; -est
Etymology: probably alteration of English dialect wankle, from Middle English wankel, from Old English wancol; akin to Old High German wankOn to totter -- more at WENCH
1 British : UNSTEADY, SHAKY
2 chiefly British : AWRY, WRONG

I've recently started having a single white pixel appear in the middle of my screen on stratup. It stays on for a few minutes and then dissapears. I'ts only happened twice. After it goes away, its doesn't return for the rest of the movie. It's not a dust blob. Its definitely a pure white little square, close to the middle of the image. Its the same size as all the others in the grid. What can I do? Whats causing it? No more warranty (refurb). Would any cleaning or maintenance help?

Thanks.

I applogize in advance if this has been covered. I'm having issues with my source.
I am hooking up DVD via component and a Nintendo Wii Via component and when the Wii is on it is fine for a couple seconds and then the sourcing gets out of wack and the screen goes blank.
Once in a while while watching DVD movies some scenes make this happen as well. The source box comes up on the bottom of the screen and the screen goes dark. Then after a little while it comes back on and you can continue watching.
It's like the projector can't handle the 480P signal the Will is giving it. ( Which I know is not true because I can watch my HDTV Channels just fine without problems)
Has anyone had any issues like this? If so how do I resolve this?
If it has been covered, please direct me on where I should look. Thanks to anyone who responds.

Once again, I appologize. If I would've just searched instead of posting right away i would've been able to solve my own problem. It was the Sync Threshold that was giving me problems. I fixed it. Woo!!
But it brings up another question.....By messing with the Sync Threshold, does that make the quality of picture change at all?
Thanks.

Going on 21 days for my infocus 4805 RMA and still no return .
I had image tube issues so I sent the unit in ,now I find out they don't have the necessary part to repair it .I was told I need to wait.
was hoping on a return before the Super bowl But its not looking so good.

Another great play from infocus .


What was everyone's average turn around time regarding a 4805 repair .

thanks :)

Sent mine in on the 5th of January and dont have it back yet. They said they are out of lamps.

By messing with the Sync Threshold, does that make the quality of picture change at all?
No...unless you count getting a picture, as opposed to not getting one a change. ;)

Sent mine in on the 5th of January and dont have it back yet. They said they are out of lamps.

your joking right ?? :eek:



that's like saying McDonalds is out of French fries . :D

That's got to be the most ridiculous excuse I have heard so far .

How in the hell are they out of bulbs ??? :confused:

One of the most common failures on a projector is the BULB .
You would think infocus would stock up on a few bulbs just in case and if by chance they experience a heavy demand for replacement bulbs it shouldn't take more then 5 days to receive new ones from their supplier.

Infocus Is out of bulbs .

THIS statement from infocus is Almost as bad as Hilary Clinton saying she had no clew BILL WAS MESSING AROUND ON HER .

( if she couldn't pick up on that one do you want her in the white house as President ) .

sorry To much coffee this morning .

cheers :)

Actually, Murphy, it's quite common for IF and other manufacturers to run out occasionally. It happened not too long ago with the 4805, and for a few days, it seemed that nobody had any of those bulbs. Think about how many IF had to dole out recently and very unexpectedly with the 1A fuse issues.

Actually, Murphy, it's quite common for IF and other manufacturers to run out occasionally. It happened not too long ago with the 4805, and for a few days, it seemed that nobody had any of those bulbs. Think about how many IF had to dole out recently and very unexpectedly with the 1A fuse issues.


Originally Posted by DarrenLMP3
Sent mine in on the 5th of January and dont have it back yet. They said they are out of lamps.

point taken spyder .


but a MONTH and still no bulbs ???

i would be livid

cheers

I remember a few months ago there was a shortage of bulbs from IF. Some people went got the X2 bulb made some slight modifications to it IIRC.

Hi everyone , thought I knew all this stuff ( I read these post every day ) this has me perplexed.
I just got Hi Def cable feed for the superbowl , scientiic atlantic explorer 3250 using component . I get no tint or color adjustments , I thought this applied only to the M1 port with DVI . Also I tried defaults of all 50 for gain & offsets - doesnt look too good so switched to the D1 settings of 58 -28.5 much better but whites still look crushed unless I lower contrast way down. Any Help appreciated . Trying to get the best for friends comin over on Sun. I probably wont be able to reply to anyone till tomorrow busy tonight.
Thanks in advance !!

Hi everyone , thought I knew all this stuff ( I read these post every day ) this has me perplexed.
I just got Hi Def cable feed for the superbowl , scientiic atlantic explorer 3250 using component . I get no tint or color adjustments , I thought this applied only to the M1 port with DVI . Also I tried defaults of all 50 for gain & offsets - doesnt look too good so switched to the D1 settings of 58 -28.5 much better but whites still look crushed unless I lower contrast way down. Any Help appreciated . Trying to get the best for friends comin over on Sun. I probably wont be able to reply to anyone till tomorrow busy tonight.
Thanks in advance !!

The color/tint settings are only available when you are feeding 480i to the projector. The 58/28.5 settings are to be used when are using a DVI connection only.

What "doesn't look too good" currently with your set up? You can try just eyeing it. If blacks aren't black enough, lower the brightness. If whites aren't white enough then increase the contrast. Maybe try the color wheel cleaning if you have a lot of hours on the bulb. If you're colors are completely off, especially if you feel lots of tint adjustment is needed, is it possible you have your red/blue component connection switched or maybe a bad cable?

-Thanks for the info , learn something new all the time .
Cables & color wheel are fine as pic looks good from another dvd player. Im going to try the DVI out on cable box see if I like that better. Now dont get me wrong picture looks fine in Hi Def . just not quite as nice as the D1 . Actually if anything contrast & brightness look exaggerated , whites too white & blacks too black, maybe Im just not used to a Hi Def picture.
Ive calibrated inputs with DVE . Will play around with it some more. I'm sure no one else will even notice . Im going to just enjoy the game & stop worrying about whether its the '"Best Picture " or not !
Thanks for all the great info you guys provide , back to tweaking !

Tom.

Hello to the people having trouble with bulbs.

I have done some looking into modifying bulbs enclosures to hold equivalent LED lighting. It should be possible if you have some technical ability.

Right now my semester is kicking into full swing at university so I don't have the time to pursue the project. In the summer I plan to spend some serious tinker time seeing what I can come up with.

Anyone else who knows something about electronics and feels like exploring this, please please go ahead and let us know what happens.

I have a problem with my 4805. I've been connecting to a laptop via my m1 port but last night tried to connect with my component video to a DVD player. There was an odd dark line at the top of the image. Not solid, but kind of faded into a wide dark line all the way across the upper end of the image.

Anyone else experience this?

PS: The line is not there with the m1 connection, just the component.

Hello to the people having trouble with bulbs.

I have done some looking into modifying bulbs enclosures to hold equivalent LED lighting. It should be possible if you have some technical ability.

Right now my semester is kicking into full swing at university so I don't have the time to pursue the project. In the summer I plan to spend some serious tinker time seeing what I can come up with.

Anyone else who knows something about electronics and feels like exploring this, please please go ahead and let us know what happens.
Some of that is already going on here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=59091

It's been awhile since I read there, so good luck and happy reading! :)

Went to IF web site to order a lamp and it says out of stock!!!!! Im done watching old TV on my IPod. Time to get the 12" black and white out for the superbowl :mad:

The lamp is history and the color wheel was starting to whine.

Should I put $$ into the X-1 or, buy a new product? Is the 4805 the next better model?

Any other brands/models you would consider?

Thanks,

BC

The lamp is history and the color wheel was starting to whine.

Should I put $$ into the X-1 or, buy a new product? Is the 4805 the next better model?

Any other brands/models you would consider?

Thanks,

BC

X1, now that's some old skool! Technically, the 4805 is the "next better model", but apparently you missed out on its reign as the king of budget units. Better to get the current "next best thing" and go straight to the IN72.

Either one is a very, very significant and large step up from the ancient X1. Do not sink any more money into that dying relic. Donate it to The Smithsonian instead. Spend a paltry $100 (over the X1 bulb cost) on a brand new, shiny, black UFO that is the IN72. You'll be glad you did, since it features technology from this milllenium, rather than last. :)

The lamp is history and the color wheel was starting to whine.

Should I put $$ into the X-1 or, buy a new product? Is the 4805 the next better model?

Any other brands/models you would consider?

Thanks,

BC
I personally would not put any money into a X1.

You could pick up a new IN72 for $450 ( after rebate at tiger ) a new X1 bulb would cost you $325 at the least a rebuilt one for $250 then you have the color wheel to mess with still . I have two 4805s and two IN72 and the In72 is a GREAT pj Better then the 4805 hands down. Its brighter Quieter and overall a BETTER picture .You will have others stating specs and what have you I'm going by personal side by side comparison .


Personally I would wait another year before spending extra money on a 720 or a 1080 as of yet .
In a years time Prices for HD DVD players and 720 /1080 PJ Prices SHOULD DROP like a rock Also You'll be letting everyone else play ginypig as they test out the latest pjs sharing news of the good and bad ,making your future buying choices much easier , lessening a chance of buying a lemon or something you don't want or need.
Here's my theory If you watch mostly Standard DVDs and a little Hd TV Grab a IN72 You just cant beat the bang for buck from any other 480 pj The price is Just Super and overall performance from this pjs is GREAT.

By doing this you will have the least out of pocket invested and you are able to enjoy a great picture as well.
In a years time HD DVD players prices should drop like rocks along with the 720 and 1080's as well. And the TV world will have most of their poop together with Plenty more HD station available and most shows will actually be broadcasting in HD by then.

Mean while you'll be enjoying a great picture with little invested Then you can take the one year old IN72 and sell it on eBay or to a friend using the money on a Pj better suited to you needs and pocket book .


If you watch allot of Hd DVDs And you have extra money kicking around and can't wait one more year then grab the 720 HD1000u.It seems to be getting some good feed back .

cheers

Went to IF web site to order a lamp and it says out of stock!!!!! Im done watching old TV on my IPod. Time to get the 12" black and white out for the superbowl :mad:


Will someone that lives close to Darren invite him to watch SB XLI. We just can't let you do it man. Please for the sake of the Projector King, don't watch the SB on B/W. :eek: :eek:

I feel your pain Brother. Hang in there. We will start a support group for. :) :) :)

Does anyone have a problem where the projector becomes out of focus after about an hour of being on?

It seems like I have it perfectly in focus, and then after awhile, it becomes "out of focus". I'm not sure if it's from people running around upstairs and jolting the projector (it's in the basement), or if it's from my eyes, or what.

Thanks,

If it's been on for an hour and you focus it, are you saying that you need to refocus it the next time you use it? If that's the case, then I would say the vibrations are causing it. Some people have complained of loose focus rings. Next time, after it's been running for an hour, throw a piece of tape across the throw and focus rings to hold it in place.

Be aware that those same vibrations are also bad for your lamp.

No filament in these lamps to vibrate...the SP4805 however is somewhat sensitive to warmup on focus (assuming the kids are not shaking it loose) The solution is to focus after it is warmed up - and it will then drifit into rather than out of focus next time. The IN72 case design has improved on thermal gradients - the lens does not even get warm.

OK. So I should focus it after it has been on for 10-15 minutes?

The vibrations are not that bad, but sometimes they shake the picture. However, there isn't really anything I can do about it short of getting rid of my ceiling mount and putting it on a table, which I really don't want to do.

I always have to focus it between uses. This stems from the fact that I turn it off manually using the switch, so the projector moves that minuscule millimeter, throwing my focus off.

My focus ring is extremely sensitive. I don't remember it being so loose, but it's been awhile since I have had the thing.

My 4805 focus changed slightly after it warmed up, always consistent. Focus it after its been on for 30 minutes is what I do.

Does the 4805 take RGB over the component inputs?

I have component lines going to my projector, and I want to buy one of those VGA-RGB adapters and feed the signal. Will it work?

You would be better off with a component video adaptor on your PC. While you can change the colorspace in the PJ from YPbPr to RGB - the question is how does the black box deal with computer sync signals on the VGA? As well the SP4805 on the VGA input only syncs to very basic set of laptop rates. Either way the quality is much worse that using the computer with a digital interconnect.

I have a problem with my 4805. I've been connecting to a laptop via my m1 port but last night tried to connect with my component video to a DVD player. There was an odd dark line at the top of the image. Not solid, but kind of faded into a wide dark line all the way across the upper end of the image.

Anyone else experience this?

PS: The line is not there with the m1 connection, just the component.

No one has had this problem before?

I'd try messing around with the sync threshhold on the advanced picture menu. One of my equipment that I used to use had a problem syncing with the 4805 and adjusting the sync threshhold fixed the problem for me.


Only got a chance to try this last night since I was out of the country on business, however I couldn't find the sync threshold on the advanced picture menu. Do I need to upgrade to a newer version of the firmware to get that option? Tried playing with all options on the advanced picture menu but the SNES image is still jumping about.

You would be better off with a component video adaptor on your PC. While you can change the colorspace in the PJ from YPbPr to RGB - the question is how does the black box deal with computer sync signals on the VGA? As well the SP4805 on the VGA input only syncs to very basic set of laptop rates. Either way the quality is much worse that using the computer with a digital interconnect.


So if I take one of those cables that goes from VGA to component ends and feed that to the projector, it will look like crap?

http://www.myhometheater.homestead.com/files/vgaadapt.jpg

I personally would not put any money into a X1.

You could pick up a new IN72 for $450 ( after rebate at tiger ) a new X1 bulb would cost you $325 at the least a rebuilt one for $250 then you have the color wheel to mess with still . I have two 4805s and two IN72 and the In72 is a GREAT pj Better then the 4805 hands down. Its brighter Quieter and overall a BETTER picture .You will have others stating specs and what have you I'm going by personal side by side comparison .



Thanks so much for this suggestion (spyder too). I own an X1 that has been a great machine. It is probably nearing retirement and $450 sounds like a great way to upgrade and wait for the hd prices to drop. I poked around a bit on the net and looked at a review in projectorcentral that said:



http://www.projectorcentral.com/play_big_IN72.htm

"Scaling of high definition material was clean, however it looks almost exactly like standard definition on this projector. On other 480p projectors, 1080i and 720p sources look quite a bit better than native 480-line material, due to increased information in the signal. On the IN72, it merely looks as good, but not better than standard definition content."

Looks like standard definition? Is that your experience? My X1 continues to give a good hd signal a great look and anyone can easily tell the difference between hd and sd. I would be curious to hear anyones opinion about the IN72's ability to play HD material and how it might compare with the X1.

Many thanks for pointing this out.

Taji

Looks like standard definition? Is that your experience? My X1 continues to give a good hd signal a great look and anyone can easily tell the difference between hd and sd. I would be curious to hear anyones opinion about the IN72's ability to play HD material and how it might compare with the X1.

Many thanks for pointing this out.

Standard My azz .


When I view A HD signal ( especially sport events ) with the IN72 the picture is GREAT no where near ( standard TV ) .

Projectorcentreal needs to have their eyes examined or find a new way to make a few bucks on the IN72 ( pretty hard to due to the low coast ) so they can post the truth regarding this Unit.

cheers

...Looks like standard definition? Is that your experience?
PJCentral is good enough for getting general knowledge, but they're on crack if they think HD material looks like SD. :confused: Maybe they were watching Harry Potter: Gobs of Flaws or X-Men 3: The Last Straw when they wrote that, since both those films are horrible PQ-wise. No unit on Earth could make those movies look good. Both the 4805 and the IN72 produce excellent HD images.

Originally Posted by MurphyAgain
Going on 21 days for my infocus 4805 RMA and still no return .
I had image tube issues so I sent the unit in ,now I find out they don't have the necessary part to repair it .I was told I need to wait.
was hoping on a return before the Super bowl But its not looking so good.

Another great play from infocus .


What was everyone's average turn around time regarding a 4805 repair





Sent mine in on the 5th of January and dont have it back yet. They said they are out of lamps.



Ok....Infocus called today and said it would be another 3 weeks til projector is fixed. They went on to say something about upgrading the unit. They pressured me about this 2 weeks ago when i called. Thats when they told me they were out of light bulbs. he said i could upgrade to another unit and i told him are you joking? Spend more money after i just bought a bulb. They are going to give me the lamp for free. I didnt tell him i have a lamp here. i sent it in with the burnt lamp to repair the light tunnel. From what i gather the light tunnel is fixed, Its just the lamp they are waiting for. They left a message today and i could barely understand the broken english. he was saying something about upgrading again and that the 4805 lamps would not be in for 3-4 weeks. Did anybody else upgrade and what projector should i get or stay away from? Oh...and what should i pay!

Infocus got the bulbs in last friday .

call back and ask for ED ANDERSON ,.


tell him the story ..

If that fails ask for Dave Burger.

If that failes ASK for Patty G.

if that fails buy some gasoline And a box of matches And take aa small vacation

cheers

I have a 4805 and lamp just burnt out. Is it worth spending the money on a new lamp bulb vs. buying a new projector? the in72 is at a good price, the way I figure it getting the in72 at 450(after rebate) and then selling my 4805 as is on ebay it should put be around same cost as the new bulb would be?


also, anyone familar with the Infocus sp5000 LCD projector? that is other option I'm looking at but I just cant decide if it would be that much better than the in72 model judging by what I've read?

Goodbye 4805... The IN72 is in transit... After 3200 hrs and my bulb's death, I am moving on. If anyone would like the 4805 let me know... I would like something for it... Send me an PM... I am only switching to get the new machine for $200 over the cost of a new bulb. I loved my 4805. Thanks for all the help in the beginning and when I was researching. You guys drove me to nit pick about everything. That's ok though, I loved every minute of it...

John

Hi all. I haven't stopped by this thread in a bit - glad to see it's still thriving. Anyway, I just got home from work and fired up the 4805 and.... it's not getting a signal from ANY source. The splash screen comes up, and then it just searches...

I tried TV (HDMI to M1 Adapter), DVD (component) and DVD recorder (s-video) and no thing is working, even after powering down, waiting 1/2 hour and trying again. I have never had a problem like this before and I use it every day. Any thoughts?

Thanks

I have a 4805 and lamp just burnt out. Is it worth spending the money on a new lamp bulb vs. buying a new projector? the in72 is at a good price, the way I figure it getting the in72 at 450(after rebate) and then selling my 4805 as is on ebay it should put be around same cost as the new bulb would be?


also, anyone familar with the Infocus sp5000 LCD projector? that is other option I'm looking at but I just cant decide if it would be that much better than the in72 model judging by what I've read?

The sp5000 is almost as old as the 4805 (which is over 2 years old now). I'd choose the in72 over it.

I got to use the sp5000 for a while .

just whistle and walk right on by it .


I think its a pile of PO PO . I know the specs are better with the sp5000 but

I think the 4805 kicked its AZZ Never mind the slightly better IN72,

Just my own opinion .


cheers

Love my 4805, but now I am getting the dreaded ‘buzz saw’ sound at start up. It doesn’t happen every time I start up, probably only 1 out of 8 times I turn it on. And the sound is usually around for about 5 minutes. My manufacturers warranty goes through September 2007. I am tempted to send it in for service, but there are a few situations that I am trying to consider:

1.) I am afraid that they will get the unit, turn it on a couple times, and it wont make the buzz sound, and they will just ship it back. I really don’t want my projector bumped around during shipping and in the lab if it does not have to.
2.) It seems like I could be out of a PJ for nearly a month after reading some other peoples experiences on this thread.

On the other hand:

Do you think there is any chance that they would simply replace the unit with the IN72, especially if I wait another 5 or 6 months to send it in? Any chance they would replace my bulb with a new one while they are at it?

Any advice would be appreciated.

I would wait a couple of months to see if the light tunnel problem shows its ugly head and then send it in for both.
Thats what I did. I had the buzz saw noise on occasion for about 9 months then the light tunnel problem started to show. My warranty is up in the beginning of March so I sent mine in the beginning of Jan.
I was hoping they would offer me a IN72 instead of fixing mine but that didn't happen :)
The 4805 looks and runs great since the repair and I'm happy. My turnaround time was 2 weeks, unlike some others here that are still waiting. Got lucky I guess.

Thanks for the info. I will do that.


What exactly is the 'light tunnel' problem?

You start to get a shadow down the side. Like someone is holding a piece of cardboard covering a small section of the lens.Mine was probably an inch or so wide. You really couldn't see it when you were watching a movie or TV but if you bring up the white blank screen it was there. It only gets worse. The light tunnel is 4 mirrors glued together.(a long rectangle) and the glue starts to come apart. My thought anyway.
You can do a search and find much more info then I provided if you want some good reading.

My 4805 made the Buzz sound for the first time today.

I'm at 196 hours on the bulb.

Has anyone figured out what actually causes the buzzing sound, I've been reading a bunch of threads and I'm seeing people say all sorts of things cause it (color wheel, temperature....etc.).

I bought the thing off Ebay with 2 hours on the bulb (customer return/open box reseller store), so I don't think Infocus will honor any sort of warranty for me..... :(

Does the buzzing sound mean something is about to break or what?

My 4805 made the Buzz sound for the first time today.

I'm at 196 hours on the bulb.

Has anyone figured out what actually causes the buzzing sound, I've been reading a bunch of threads and I'm seeing people say all sorts of things cause it (color wheel, temperature....etc.).

I bought the thing off Ebay with 2 hours on the bulb (customer return/open box reseller store), so I don't think Infocus will honor any sort of warranty for me..... :(

Does the buzzing sound mean something is about to break or what?


thats not true ,

call up infocus and give them our serial number .

Warranty is tranferable . Wow 190 hours on bulb and the color wheel scweel is heard, You sure no one reset the units hours on the bulb ,

Warranty is tranferableNot so.

My 4805 made the Buzz sound for the first time today.

I'm at 196 hours on the bulb.

Has anyone figured out what actually causes the buzzing sound, I've been reading a bunch of threads and I'm seeing people say all sorts of things cause it (color wheel, temperature....etc.).

I bought the thing off Ebay with 2 hours on the bulb (customer return/open box reseller store), so I don't think Infocus will honor any sort of warranty for me..... :(

Does the buzzing sound mean something is about to break or what?

I read once after having the same problem that it had to do with the power source. It apparently fixes the issue if you plug the projector into the same outlet that all the other equipment is plugged into. I did that and it quit, you need a power strip thing obviously for everything coming out of the same wall outlet.

Does the buzzing sound mean something is about to break or what?
My theory is that the buzzing is dust/dirt getting into the bearings of the color wheel. I get it occasionally, and after I clean the bulb screens and use the vacuum's "needlenose" attachment on the color wheel hub, the noise goes away for another few months.

Been doing this for over two years and nothing has shattered yet!

I echo Scooterboy's comments, I use shop vac and a can of compressed air (blow from inside, vacuum it out the back. I read an article on color wheels a while back and evidently they are susceptible to slight out of balance situations causing excessive noise, so I guessing that's part of the story. I've been keeping mine clean and I've had no further issues with buzzing.

Just switched to IN72, which is much quieter but I'm still tweaking the image.

So does anyone know if I can take a computer's VGA output, use one of those VGA-RGB RCA connector cables, and send that to the component in on the projector?

http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/4935/4805vgacv0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

thats not true ,

call up infocus and give them our serial number .

Warranty is tranferable . Wow 190 hours on bulb and the color wheel scweel is heard, You sure no one reset the units hours on the bulb ,

The PJ looked brand new and the bulb was going through the flickering phase for the first 100 hours, so I think the bulb is at least new.

I'm gonna clean it out tomorrow and see how that goes.

So does anyone know if I can take a computer's VGA output, use one of those VGA-RGB RCA connector cables, and send that to the component in on the projector?It depends on whether your video card provides that ability with the appropriate dongle. You can't just take VGA out and mix the signals to be component.

So does anyone know if I can take a computer's VGA output, use one of those VGA-RGB RCA connector cables, and send that to the component in on the projector?The 4805 normally comes with a VGA to M1 cable. Unless the M1 connection is in use by something else, you could use that method for connection. If you don't have it, you might need to get that cable. It is also needed for firmware upgrades.

Will it still take it though, because although the signal is RGB, wouldn't it take it anyway? I don't want component, but I suppose I could buy a graphics card with that ability.

Oh well. I'll buy the cable and see what happens.

i run component over a 35' vga cable to my infocus. works great.

Just two questions. If you do not have any blobs is it worth still blowing the projector mirrors with CO2? Will this improve picture quality in any way?Secondly, I have my projector connected to my laptop via DVI, it is recommended to have 56/28.5 for DVI connection. However, I will use DVE to calibrate the projector, should i keep the recommended 56/28.5 or change it according to DVE? Thanks.

Didn't search all 200+ pages, but maybe someone can help. My bro' called this morning to let me know the bulb in the 4805 (old one...one of the first batch of 20 sold in the US) I installed in his basement blew this morning (literally...glass all over the screens). He installed the new bulb, but nothing's happening...any ideas?

Jg

...If you do not have any blobs is it worth still blowing the projector mirrors with CO2?....
Carbon dioxide gets onto all your pj's parts just from you breathing. I doubt it would help to blow more on. :confused:

A can of gas duster typically contains difluoroethane, trifluoroethane, or tetrafluoroethane. These should be used with extreme caution, as the gas turns quite cold upon release. Rapid cooling of glass parts = many more glass parts. :eek:

No dust blobs...If it aint broke, don't fix it. ;)

Didn't search all 200+ pages, but maybe someone can help. My bro' called this morning to let me know the bulb in the 4805 (old one...one of the first batch of 20 sold in the US) I installed in his basement blew this morning (literally...glass all over the screens). He installed the new bulb, but nothing's happening...any ideas?

Jg

It would help if I realized I actually had to RTLDBTTB*. I probably should have mentioned that...

Your Working Boy,
Daryl

* replace the Lamp Door before testing the bulb

Does anyone have any advice on how to expedite my warranty repair or even better have any contacts at Infocus I can call? On Monday Infocus will have had my projector for 5 weeks. At one point I talked to a customer service rep and asked that it be replaced because they were taking so long and it was supposedly waiting for parts. She initially said no but finally conceded that she would change it from warranty repair to warranty replacement. After not hearing anything I called again and apparently they have no such record. Nice to be lied to. What can I do here? Who can I call? All I can succeed in doing is talking to people in India.

All I can succeed in doing is talking to people in India.Ask for Apu Nahasapeemapetilon from the Kwik-E-Mart :D :D :D

This is a lesson on how to handle customer service reps. ALWAYS get a full name. ALWAYS. If the company does not allow for full name disclosure, get a first name and employee number. Write down the date and time that you called. Ask for that person's supervisor's name as well. This makes that particular rep responsible for personally seeing the issue through. If you do have problems later on, be it; time, attitude, or just plain ineffectiveness, you've already got the supervisor's name. Lastly, if the rep does a fine job, do not hesitate to call the supervisor and let them know of the employee's success, as some people get bonuses or raises based on things like that.

Carbon dioxide gets onto all your pj's parts just from you breathing. I doubt it would help to blow more on. :confused:

A can of gas duster typically contains difluoroethane, trifluoroethane, or tetrafluoroethane. These should be used with extreme caution, as the gas turns quite cold upon release. Rapid cooling of glass parts = many more glass parts. :eek:

No dust blobs...If it aint broke, don't fix it. ;)

Thanks for your reply but I dont think you quite understood the question. Even though I dont have any visible blobs would it still be worth cleaning the inside of the projector glass using the "dust blob" removal technique? Thought maybe my doing so it would benefit picture quality as there might be a very very thin layer of dust on it or a bit of dust that is not visible on the projected screen....hmmm not quite sure if this is making any sense but I hope you got my point. Thanks.

QUOTE: "if you are using DVI or HDMI sources (other than a PC), set the RGB Gains to 58 and the RGB Offsets to 28.5"

Is this true? I have my projector hooked up via DVI to the M1-DVI port of the projector (VRM9 enabled in WM11), should I have not changed my projector to those settings? Do these settings (58/28.5) only apply if you have connected your projector to digital source which only upscale the video? Somebody clarify why those settings are not needed for a PC (my case Laptop) to projector connection.

...Even though I dont have any visible blobs would it still be worth cleaning the inside of the projector glass using the "dust blob" removal technique? Thought maybe my doing so it would benefit picture quality as there might be a very very thin layer of dust on it or a bit of dust that is not visible on the projected screen...
You'd be better off just cleaning the lamp filter and the color wheel. Do a search for SuperGoop's cw cleaning method if it's your first time. Even then, unless your cw is filthy, you won't see much difference. Now if your cw was making a buzz-saw noise, well...

You'd be better off just cleaning the lamp filter and the color wheel. Do a search for SuperGoop's cw cleaning method if it's your first time. Even then, unless your cw is filthy, you won't see much difference. Now if your cw was making a buzz-saw noise, well...

Well what?????? Mine made that sound the other day :(

Well what?????? Mine made that sound the other day :(
Well...then a cw cleaning might make a big difference. nobi, try running the unit in high power mode for 5-15 minutes the next time it happens. I've had the cw buzz before, but at very intermittant times, and never for more than a few seconds before it went away.

is it ok to blow air in the air vents using the CO2 air spray to clean them out?

Well...then a cw cleaning might make a big difference. nobi, try running the unit in high power mode for 5-15 minutes the next time it happens. I've had the cw buzz before, but at very intermittant times, and never for more than a few seconds before it went away.

It happened once right when I turned it on a few days ago but hasn't happened since.

I'm going to be cleaning the air filter since I'm at the 200 hour mark.

I'll take a look at the color wheel while I'm in there.

This is a lesson on how to handle customer service reps. ALWAYS get a full name. ALWAYS. If the company does not allow for full name disclosure, get a first name and employee number. Write down the date and time that you called. Ask for that person's supervisor's name as well. This makes that particular rep responsible for personally seeing the issue through. If you do have problems later on, be it; time, attitude, or just plain ineffectiveness, you've already got the supervisor's name. Lastly, if the rep does a fine job, do not hesitate to call the supervisor and let them know of the employee's success, as some people get bonuses or raises based on things like that.
In this case I did get the rep's first name. Turns out she's the only Patricia there. I have a supervisor looking into this but I'm not holding my breath, hence my reason for asking for additional contacts.

is it ok to blow air in the air vents using the CO2 air spray to clean them out?

No. Dust will spread around the housing. Including the lens. If you do result = Dust Blob.

QUOTE: "if you are using DVI or HDMI sources (other than a PC), set the RGB Gains to 58 and the RGB Offsets to 28.5"

Is this true? I have my projector hooked up via DVI to the M1-DVI port of the projector (VRM9 enabled in WM11), should I have not changed my projector to those settings? Do these settings (58/28.5) only apply if you have connected your projector to digital source which only upscale the video? Somebody clarify why those settings are not needed for a PC (my case Laptop) to projector connection.


Those settings apply for a digital source, your DVI or HDMI output, regardless of the scaling being done. I'm asuming your laptop connection is being done by VGA cable, which is not digital, thus no need for those settings. Just save your offsets on one of your favorite settings, and use another favorite to set up your laptops settings.

I started the upgrade to firmware v1.3.2 as found on the infocus website and it connected to the projector with no probs and got maybe 1/6th of the way through and then appears to have hung. Its been sitting there for maybe half an hour now with no progress. =( It is only a USB1.1 connection on the computer but I thought it'd be quicker than that.

I'm not optimistic but you would make me very happy by telling me that this is normal and to leave it for another while and it'll be fine. Since (a) that's not likely and (b) the upgrade has progressed far enough to erase the old firmware, can someone think of a way out of this that doesn't result in me having to send the projector back to infocus to have the firmware upgraded? The only option I have on the "FlashUSB II v1.3" program is 'Stop' which I am reluctant to press.

Did you download the update or try to do it from their websight ?
I downloaded it, and it updated in a matter of a few seconds if I remember correctly.
Don't really know what to tell ya except try again.
Maybe someone that ran into that problem will chime in.

Did you download the update or try to do it from their websight ?
I downloaded it, and it updated in a matter of a few seconds if I remember correctly.
Don't really know what to tell ya except try again.
Maybe someone that ran into that problem will chime in.


I downloaded it. If it updated inside a few seconds then I am in trouble. Its still sitting in the same position over an hour later. Don't think I've any choice but to press stop and see what happens. :(

can someone think of a way out of this that doesn't result in me having to send the projector back to infocus to have the firmware upgraded? The only option I have on the "FlashUSB II v1.3" program is 'Stop' which I am reluctant to press.

I got fed up and pressed stop at which point it went back to "waiting for connection". Turned off projector, turned it on again holding keystone buttons and it reconnected. Download this time took all of about 5 seconds! Appears to be working now. Thanks for the help guys.

Those setting apply for a digital source, your DVI or HDMI output, regardless of the scaling being done. Im asuming your laptop connection is being done by VGA cable, which is not digital, thus no need for those settings. Just save your offsets on one of your favorite settings, and use another favorite to set up your laptops settings.

no, I am connecting the laptop from the DVI port to the DVI port of the projector, so it is correct for me to use the 58/28.5 settings?

No. Dust will spread around the housing. Including the lens. If you do result = Dust Blob.


can I hoover the air vents?

Regarding the buzz-saw sound: I get it every now and then, but only for very short periods (a second or two) and then it goes away. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I suspect this is fairly normal, and is NOT something that requires fixing unless it becomes much more common. Right?

The only reason I'm asking is to clarify this for other people who might be reading along. Personally, I'm not touching nothin' unless I have to. :p (Except of course for periodic cleaning of the filter.)

-Dan

can I hoover the air vents?
I'm pretty sure the manual shows how to clean the filter.

-Dan

Hi all, first time posting though I digested the first official thread when I was researching this projector over a year ago. So let me first say thanks to all the pros (and some of the amateurs) that helped me make this most excellent choice. I've really enjoyed the 4805.

So here's why I'm posting: the colors recently have been very off. The picture in general has a reddish hue, and there are other weird color swapping effects, like what should look blue is green. My suspicion is that one of the colors isn't coming through from the color wheel.

As an interesting twist, my fiance surprised me by telling me that she fixed the problem. Then she shocked me to tears by telling me that she did so by giving the box a well-placed moderately hard tap. I was amazed and relieved to find that the box was still working and that the color had indeed returned to normal. This lasted for a few hours, but then the problem returned.

Painful as it was I allowed one more moderate tap and it again returned to normal, with no other apparent impact to the system. Again after a few hours the problem returned. I refuse to tap this box anymore, so I wonder if anyone here knows what this problem is so I can try to fix it for good the right way.

My lamp is at about 2446 hrs, and I long ago started hearing that buzzing sound periodically, but this is the first time I've had any problems with the picture.

Thanks for any info/advice.

open that little fella up and see what it looks like in there.
It might be something you could tighten up.
Otherwise if it's still under warranty send it in.
I haven't seen any other complaints of that nature.

simiya,

Not sure how you've hooked up the PJ but I'd first check the cables and connections. Boxes can be finicky, sometimes a hard tap works wonders other times a more subtle approach is required but as you've found out neither is a long-term resolution.

Hugh2, thanks a bunch, you've solved my problem.

I'm a bit of a Monk fan, so please indulge me. "Here's what happend:"

I was enjoying my Comcast HD on my 4805 with no problems, but then... I bought an XBox 360. The 360 showed up great on the 4805, but there was only one problem: the 4805 could only take one set of component cables at a time. I needed a way to keep both devices connected, and easily switch between the two. So I bought a cheap $20 component switcher.

Since then, I noticed the periodic color problem. The taps to the projector fixed the issue, but the problem wasn't with the projector, it was with the switcher. You see, the switcher rested on the same media cart as the projector, and benefitted from the vibrations from the taps. The cables on the switcher were loose.

A quick unplug and replug solved the problem. Mystery solved.

Thanks again Hugh2.

no, I am connecting the laptop from the DVI port to the DVI port of the projector, so it is correct for me to use the 58/28.5 settings?

It depends on what your video settings are in your media player. If you are using VMR9 then you will use the 58/28.5 setting. If you are using the windows overlay, then you would not use the setting and keep it default.

Regarding the buzz-saw sound: I get it every now and then, but only for very short periods (a second or two) and then it goes away. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I suspect this is fairly normal, and is NOT something that requires fixing unless it becomes much more common. Right?

The only reason I'm asking is to clarify this for other people who might be reading along. Personally, I'm not touching nothin' unless I have to. :p (Except of course for periodic cleaning of the filter.)

-Dan

This question seems to vary from user to user. I know some members said this has gotten worse for them as time goes by to a point they sent it in to Infocus for repair.

Mine's buzzes every now and then for over a year and it goes away and has not got any worse.

Hi guys, I've upgraded my projector to v1.3.2 and have played with the sync threshold (and every other option on the advanced menu) and my SNES image is still "quivering" all the time and jumping around the screen every so often. Anyone got any other suggestions? Pretty please?

*crosses fingers*

Hi guys, I've upgraded my projector to v1.3.2 and have played with the sync threshold (and every other option on the advanced menu) and my SNES image is still "quivering" all the time and jumping around the screen every so often. Anyone got any other suggestions? Pretty please?

*crosses fingers*

I'd look into emulation or a scaler that can upconvert the snes signal.

I took my lamp out to clean the filter and when I put it back in and fired it up the lamp hour counter was reset.

That's really stupid.

Is there any way to set it back where it was?

Hi guys, I've upgraded my projector to v1.3.2 and have played with the sync threshold (and every other option on the advanced menu) and my SNES image is still "quivering" all the time and jumping around the screen every so often. Anyone got any other suggestions? Pretty please?

*crosses fingers*It's beginning to sound to me like you've got a flaky cable coming out of the SNES. I'd look for a "new" one on eBay.

Alternatively, if you're feeling adventurous, you might be able to make your own cable. In that case, you'd find the following useful...

http://www.gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=av:nintendomultiav

It's beginning to sound to me like you've got a flaky cable coming out of the SNES. I'd look for a "new" one on eBay.


Good suggestion vttom, but the gamecube composite cable is identical to the SNES one so I swapped them but saw the same thing. :(
Now that you say it though the cables are all hanging down the back of my unit higgledy piggledy so maybe there's some interference between the power supply and the cable.......? Will drag the snes out into the middle of the floor away from everything else and connect it up and see what happens.



I'd look into emulation or a scaler that can upconvert the snes signal.
Another good suggestion. I have one of those cheap-ass composite-to-VGA converters that I bought as part of a DIY projector project (I know, I know) so might try firing that in the VGA input and seeing how it looks. My guess is "crap" but worth a shot, right? :)

I took my lamp out to clean the filter and when I put it back in and fired it up the lamp hour counter was reset.

That's really stupid.

Is there any way to set it back where it was?

Hummmm... That is strange (at least for me). I clean my lamp filters every 100 hours and never had that reset issue.
My guess is that there's no way to reset it back (but maybe I'm wrong...)

I took my lamp out to clean the filter and when I put it back in and fired it up the lamp hour counter was reset.

That's really stupid.

Is there any way to set it back where it was?
If you inadvertently pressed and held the volume buttons for 10 seconds it will reset the lamp hours. I don't think there is a way to set it back.

Another good suggestion. I have one of those cheap-ass composite-to-VGA converters that I bought as part of a DIY projector project (I know, I know) so might try firing that in the VGA input and seeing how it looks. My guess is "crap" but worth a shot, right? :)
Another sort-of solution might be to get a Wii. They're offering some SNES games for download for around $10. I completely understand that this is not the perfect solution. However, if you needed just a little push to get the Wii, consider yourself pushed. :p

-Dan

no, I am connecting the laptop from the DVI port to the DVI port of the projector, so it is correct for me to use the 58/28.5 settings?

Damn, laptops with DVI out...what will they think of next! My bad, I almost asked that before I posted...to clarify what JaPhule said, the VRM mode gives full control of the video stream over to the video card and in effect your PJ, and those settings produce the correct levels for that. With overlay, your PC is still controlling the video streams so the same controls that effect your desktop...colors...contrast...etc...are in play and gains settings will be of no value.

Clear as MUDDDDDD right :eek:

Another sort-of solution might be to get a Wii. They're offering some SNES games for download for around $10. I completely understand that this is not the perfect solution. However, if you needed just a little push to get the Wii, consider yourself pushed. :p

-Dan


Dan, you have amazing timing. Would you believe my wife bought me a Wii for Valentine's day (seriously, what a top girl) so I do have that option to look forward to. I had considered that option before but the IGN review of MarioKart 64 (http://uk.wii.ign.com/articles/759/759659p1.html) put me off since they said the emulation wasn't perfect. Am afraid it'll be the same story with the SNES games. If Secret of Mana and Super MarioKart are released and are decent I might well abandon my SNES but there's something nice about getting mugged down memory lane - blowing dust out of the cartridges etc. etc.

Getting back to projector-related discussion a few people suggested that I pass the signal through a video player or DVD player and see if that helps. Of course none of my old DVD players have that feature but I'll borrow one over the weekend and see if it works. Not sure why it would but worth a try.

Damn, laptops with DVI out...what will they think of next! My bad, I almost asked that before I posted...to clarify what JaPhule said, the VRM mode gives full control of the video stream over to the video card and in effect your PJ, and those settings produce the correct levels for that. With overlay, your PC is still controlling the video streams so the same controls that effect your desktop...colors...contrast...etc...are in play and gains settings will be of no value.

Clear as MUDDDDDD right :eek:

got it thank you. I have setup the projector connected to DVI port of Laptop with the 58/28.5 settings, with 1:1 Pixel Mapping. Now, to test it.

Dan, you have amazing timing. Would you believe my wife bought me a Wii for Valentine's day (seriously, what a top girl) so I do have that option to look forward to. I had considered that option before but the IGN review of MarioKart 64 (http://uk.wii.ign.com/articles/759/759659p1.html) put me off since they said the emulation wasn't perfect. Am afraid it'll be the same story with the SNES games. If Secret of Mana and Super MarioKart are released and are decent I might well abandon my SNES but there's something nice about getting mugged down memory lane - blowing dust out of the cartridges etc. etc.
That's one great wife! When the Wii first came out, my wife called a list of 10 stores every few hours until we found one, after 3 days. Maybe your wife and mine are related? :p

I hadn't heard of any issues with MarioKart, but then, I've never played it. I can tell you that Legend of Zelda: A Link To The Past (SNES) is spot-on. Go over to the Nintendo forum here on AVS Forum and post your questions about emulation issues.

Sorry for the off-topic post. I'll quit now. :D

-Dan

Having a color problem with my 4805. Just noticed this tonight. The pics are bad but you should get the idea. The bottom right verticle edge of the picture has a yellow tint. It's about 1.5 inches thick and goes up about 1/3rd of the screen. I cleaned the bulb, but it didn't work. Any suggestions before I call InFocus?

Matt
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze1sc6n/screenDiscolor0001.JPG
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze1sc6n/screenDiscolor0002.JPG

...The bottom right verticle edge of the picture has a yellow tint....Any suggestions before I call InFocus?
That's the beginning of the dreaded light-tunnel problem. :eek: RUN, do not walk, to the phone and get it repaired/replaced by IF immediately. If you are out of warantee, it's an absurd and astronomical $900 for the repair, so you're better off just getting the IN72 at half that price.

Do you have a link describing this problem? I've never heard of it. Anything you can tell me would be helpful. How do I describe this problem to InFocus?
Matt

Do you have a link describing this problem? I've never heard of it. Anything you can tell me would be helpful. How do I describe this problem to InFocus?
Matt


If you do a image tube search in the 4805 thread you will find a bit more info .

To save you some time .
The problem inside the 4805 ( and other models ) there are four mirrors glued together making a square mirrored tube .
This tube is used to tunnel the light thru the projector .
The yellowish image ( glue ) your seeing is evidence the glued mirrors construction is failing .
This will only get worst ( and fast ) .
There have been reports a small adjustment with two Allen screws has works in some cases.
If the unit is under warrantee DO NOT ATTEMPT TO FIX YOURSELF .

Good luck


Murphy

Do you have a link describing this problem? I've never heard of it. Anything you can tell me would be helpful. How do I describe this problem to InFocus?
Matt

I just got mine back from Infocus.They replaced the light tunnel.
Mine covered the whole side, about 2". It started just like yours.
If it's under warranty get it in.

Matt,

Just a quick question. How many hours do you have on your SP 4805? I have close to 1600 hrs on mine right now. I have been fortunate not to have this problem and I don't see any signs, still throws a beautiful image. I understand that this can happen at any time. As soon as my 4805 show any signs I will have it sent in right away. I still have close to a year left on my warranty. Get your unit in for warranty repair as soon as you can.

Yeah, I have about 1600 as well.
Matt

Hello guys, Just a few quick question. Due to a small room and very few places to put my projector, I have had to tilt the projector downwards and set the Keyston to 19 in order to get the image beaming at the correct area which I want it to. My question is, does keystoning reduce image quality in any way when I do this? Secondly, why is it that when I focus the project that the entire image does not focus? It seem like when I focus it the right corner is clearer than the left or vice versa depending on which way I turn the focus wheel? Why cant the entire image be evenly focused?

Hello guys, Just a few quick question. Due to a small room and very few places to put my projector, I have had to tilt the projector downwards and set the Keyston to 19 in order to get the image beaming at the correct area which I want it to. My question is, does keystoning reduce image quality in any way when I do this? Secondly, why is it that when I focus the project that the entire image does not focus? It seem like when I focus it the right corner is clearer than the left or vice versa depending on which way I turn the focus wheel? Why cant the entire image be evenly focused?
Use of Keystoning affects the image quality a lot - especially if you need to use extreme keystoning (more than 10-15 "clicks") to get a rectangular image.

It is always best to use no keystoning or as little as possible for overall Picture Quality. If there is no other way around your situation due to room constraints, then you would have two choices - learn to live with and accept the image you have or find a different projector with vertical lens shift to help your situation....

I just got mine back from Infocus.They replaced the light tunnel.
Mine covered the whole side, about 2". It started just like yours.
If it's under warranty get it in.

I just had the same problem with my 4805, I have about 3000 hours on mine. Sent it in for repair under warranty and it came back beautiful. Had the color whee whine fixed at the same time. Almost seems better than new now :)

Just a quick question. How many hours do you have on your SP 4805?
Even though this was an inquiry to a specific member, I thought I'd share. 4,600+ hours on original bulb/pj and no issues yet. I think luck has more to do with it than most of us would care to admit.

Even though this was an inquiry to a specific member, I thought I'd share. 4,600+ hours on original bulb/pj and no issues yet.
I'm surprised you said this out loud. Don't you know Murphy reads this forum? :rolleyes:

-Dan

Murphy can kiss my...I AM the law. Besides, I bitch about my Comcast DVR all the time, and it just seems to get worse and worse. If you'll excuse me, I'm going to go give my 4805 a kiss and some more praise. ;)

I got a refurbed 4805 in that black friday deal 2 years ago. 2100 and going strong on the original bulb. Clean the filters and don't turn it on and off all the time. Strike the bulb once and leave it ON. No harm, no foul.

For every light tube or color wheel problem I still have to think that the vast majority of the 4805's are still going strong.

why is it that I cant get my 4805 to focus evenly. It seems to me that when I get the left side sharply focused the right side seems more blurry (visible by looking at text) and vise versa. It seems like I have to find a mid point when focusing, which basically means the entire image is not as sharp as it could be but the picture is evenly focused, whereas I can focus it on one side and it looks sharp but the other half of the image looks more blurry. Any ideas, suggestions, reasons?

Murphy can kiss my...I AM the law. Besides, I bitch about my Comcast DVR all the time, and it just seems to get worse and worse. If you'll excuse me, I'm going to go give my 4805 a kiss and some more praise.

for a minute there i thought i realy pissed spyder off :D


spyder you better go make a garlic leckless and find some wood to knock on.

thats alot of hours

Cheers

Murphy

why is it that I cant get my 4805 to focus evenly. It seems to me that when I get the left side sharply focused the right side seems more blurry (visible by looking at text) and vise versa. It seems like I have to find a mid point when focusing, which basically means the entire image is not as sharp as it could be but the picture is evenly focused, whereas I can focus it on one side and it looks sharp but the other half of the image looks more blurry. Any ideas, suggestions, reasons?Are you sure it's firing straight at the screen and not at a slight angle? If not, then that's your problem. If it is, then maybe there's a mis-alignment of the optics, in which case you can try deliberately angling the projector to compensate.

Are you sure it's firing straight at the screen and not at a slight angle? If not, then that's your problem. If it is, then maybe there's a mis-alignment of the optics, in which case you can try deliberately angling the projector to compensate.

yes its facing straight at the wall at no angle at all. Ok, thanks for the tip. Hmmm, maybe my wall is not a perfect straight either (this is England after all).

Can anyone point me to a thread on 4805 power supply issues?

Can anyone point me to a thread on 4805 power supply issues?
/\
You are here.

Murphy can kiss my...I AM the law.
Note to Murphy: I didn't say this, Spyder did. So please don't take it out on me! :D

-Dan

Can anyone point me to a thread on 4805 power supply issues?
Wow.. Power supply?? That's a new one.. What's up?

i have a very odd problem here:

latest 1.3 firmware
windows xp sp2
nvidia 97.72

my 8800 gts was outputing fine via s video dongle, then i got dvi to hdmi cablee connected via infocus m1 to hdmi adapter, i get picture but colors are all messed only green and blue and red or black are in reddish mesh, any ideas? i did have odd crash before it happened, should i just re install windows. i tried dongle again an still colors are out ?

Can any one tell me why 1080i look better than 1080p using the XBOX 360? I'm using component cables. Also when I set my PS3 to 1080p everything looks fine, also using component for it. I didn't know this projecter can do 1080p, but it can and I was also wondering when hook up my laptop using the dvi to vga cable. Why do I have to set my Laptops Display resolution to 1024 x 768 but not 1280 x 800? The lowest my laptop does is 800 x 600 if that means anything to you.

So how does this model hold up on year 3? I used 1600 hours so far on mine.

Hi! I can't set neither 848x480, not 854x480 resolution on my Infocus 4805, connected via 10 meters Infocus Sp-m1-da cable to DVI port of Nvidia GeForce 6600, Forceware 93.71.
I've search this forum and FAQ but i can't understand how to do it!
I'v got a picture only if i set second monitor in Nvidia display driver as HDTV TV and set 480p mode :(

The FAQ says:
"PowerStrip timing parameters: 848x480=848,24,88,96,480,1,3,13,25167,2304
Generic timing details for 848x480: HFP=24 HSW=88 HBP=96 kHz=24 VFP=1 VSW=3 VBP=13 Hz=48"
How can i insert this parameters in PowerStrip? At "Custom resolutions" page? What is last two numbers (25167,2304) mean?