The 2nd Official Infocus 4805 Thread. [Text View] - Page 28

utopia1956

03-01-07, 11:50 AM

InFocus wants $259 + shipping to fix my light tube. Not gonna do it. I'll live with it until I can't take it anymore and buy something new. I figure that if I fix it I'm gonna need to get a new bulb soon too (its 2.5 years old, don't know exactly how many hours because that ticker got reset) With a ne bulb at $350 I'm spending $700 within the next year on that. I can get the IN72 for less than that.

Now, new problem. All of a sudden, I keep losing the sync on the 4805. The screen goes blank for about 2 seconds, the resolution and component video overlays pop up, and then it resyncs and picture is back. Happens about 3 times an hour. So I just updated the firmware to 1.3.2. Didn't help, but the stupid flicker problem is gone.
Did you try setting the sync threshold to zero? Since you plan on replacing the pj you may want to try fixing the light tunnel yourself. Several people have had success gluing the mirror pieces back together.

jonesedw

03-01-07, 01:32 PM

Here's a laptop to pj question.

My 4805 is ceiling mounted. Cabling is in the wall and above the drop ceiling. I was thinking of using the M1 connection by adding a VESA wall mount socket and running the necessary cable (30+ feet) and use the included DVI to M1 cable. I looked briefly but am pretty sure that the price will be prohibitive.

I have one of those Philips switchboxes that allows me to connect up to four devices. I already use that for the DVD, Cable box and my son's PS2. I have found M1 to Component and VESA to Component adapters. Here's my plan.

laptop -> VESA to Component adapter -> 16' component cable -> Philips switchbox -> already existing component cable to pj

Will that work? If so I would just connect the laptop and flip the switchbox and go. Or must I use the M1 connection in which case I would run a separate component cable like this.

laptop -> VESA to Component adapter -> 16' component cable -> Philips switchbox -> new component cable -> M1 to Component -> pj

Please help!

mattbrown

03-01-07, 03:28 PM

Did you try setting the sync threshold to zero? Since you plan on replacing the pj you may want to try fixing the light tunnel yourself. Several people have had success gluing the mirror pieces back together.

I just noticed that setting (is it new in the latest firmware?) and I didn't know what it did exactly. It was defaulted to 48. I moved it up to 78ish for a while (lost all picture when I went too high) and I think I have it set now to 20 something. I'll try zero.

Not going to tackle light tunnel untill its really bothering me. It's not to the point where I can see it during normal viewing. I usually only see it at the solid white background.

rdva

03-02-07, 03:56 AM

Maybe this info will usfull for someone - how to set 854x480 resolution on Nvidia GeForce 6600 (DVI out) .
My setup: WinXP SP2, Gigabyte GeForce 6600 with two outputs - one D-SUB (analog VGA, connected to CRT monitor) and one DVI. DVI connected via 10 meters infocus SP-M1-DA cable to Screenplay 4805.
I have a picture on PJ only if i set (in NVIDIA control panel) second monitor (4805) as HDTV display and set it to 480p mode. The result is wrong aspect ratio.

Solution:
1. Install 93.71_forceware_winxp2k_english_whql driver from NVIDIA.
2. Go to "NVIDIA Control Panel" and set it to Classic view. I don't know why, but this method do not work in "New NVIDIA Control Panel" view.
3. Go to "Screen Resolution and Refresh Rates", set the checkbox "Show standart hdtv formats".
4. Press "Add" button, enter 848x480, 32 bit, 60 hz
5. Try to move Screen Resolution slider, you shoud find 848x480 mode and the button "Advanced timing" shoud be available. Press this button.
6. Try to set Horizontal pixels front-end active:856, back-end active:854; Vertical pixels front-end active 480, back end active 480, refresh rate 48 Hz.
Set this mode and you shoud see 854x480 on your infocus.

If notfing is work and the screen is black, try to set pj back in HDTV 480 p mode, repeat step 1-3 and find the position of "Screen resolution" slider wich made available button "Advanced timing". Go to Advanced timing and try to experiment - set 848x480, 854x480, 856x480, 48 hz (do not forget press "Apply" button) after that you shoud see this modes in Screen Resolution section.

Right now in NVIDIA "Screen Resolution and Refresh Rates" i can see 848x480x60Hz. But at the same time if i press "Advanced timing" button i'll see 856x480x48Hz. And the projector reports 854x480x48Hz

Pretty strange behavior, isn't it ? :) I think there are some bugs in NVIDIA driver, but this method works.

The HT Rookie

03-02-07, 08:08 AM

vttom

03-02-07, 09:41 AM

laptop -> VESA to Component adapter -> 16' component cable -> Philips switchbox -> already existing component cable to pjThis should work provided the VESA to Component adapter does the proper transcoding from the 5-wire RGBHV format to the 3-wire YPbPr format.

Also, you don't say how long the cable is from the switcher to the PJ. If this is as long as I think it is (~30ft), and then you add another 16ft from the computer to the switcher, then the total cable length is 46ft, which is bound to degrade the signal.

Edit: To minimize the degradation, use the 4805's native resolution (854x480) at at 60Hz refresh.

choproxy

03-02-07, 10:30 AM

utopia1956

03-02-07, 11:01 AM

MurphyAgain

03-02-07, 11:09 AM

My 4805 has developed the yellow band on the lh side of the screen. This is apparantly caused by failing glue in the light tube. I have serach in vain for information on the procedure to do a DIY fix. I have been inside these projectors many times and know how to get to the mirrors. I'mlooking for information on the actual repair

I was on the same boat as you.

I search high and low with very little help.
Some say they were successful in repairs by re gluing the four mirrors but I only seen pictures of the mirrors apart but I never seen any REAL Proof or any instruction for a successful repair.

I'm sure someone has done the repair with success and it would be great to get some picks and detailed results.

I jumped ship and sold all the 4805 And bought IN72'S ( better picture and brighter BEST bang per buck 480 Pj out there ) now I'm off to the HD1000 for a bit . If you are under warrantee I would send it in .

But if your not and you decide to tackle the project could you please Take picture RIGHT FROM THE START, maybe it could Help other with this same problem .
it seems allot of the 4805's ( 2 plus years old now ) are starting to develop this problem.

cheers. :)

Ja Phule

03-06-07, 12:43 AM

This should work provided the VESA to Component adapter does the proper transcoding from the 5-wire RGBHV format to the 3-wire YPbPr format.

Also, you don't say how long the cable is from the switcher to the PJ. If this is as long as I think it is (~30ft), and then you add another 16ft from the computer to the switcher, then the total cable length is 46ft, which is bound to degrade the signal.

Edit: To minimize the degradation, use the 4805's native resolution (854x480) at at 60Hz refresh.

Actually, since vga is being used, I'd recommend using 720p (1280x720) since 854x480 via vga isn't supported by the 4805.

llars

03-08-07, 06:48 PM

I'm in a bit of a cabling pickle. I an running my 4805 off of an HTPC through DVI which works great. Problem is due to the layout of my new place I am going to have to run the cabling through the walls to get everything hooked up. This is going to require about a 40 foot run.

A 40 foot DVI cable is going to give me bad picture quality right? My other option would be to use an HDMI to M1 cable, but that would require replacing half of the components in my HTPC to get PCI Express. I want to use the Component inputs for my 360 which leaves the VGA connection and I'd rather not use that.

cavu

03-08-07, 07:33 PM

I an running my 4805 off of an HTPC through DVI which works great.Are you using DVI-D or DVI-A?A 40 foot DVI cable is going to give me bad picture quality right?Assuming you are using DVI-D the answer is NO. Why do you say that? My other option would be to use an HDMI to M1 cableWhy would an HDMI-M1 cable be any better than a DVI-M1 cable??!! :confused: The video signal and the wiring inside the cable is IDENTICAL! The only difference would be that one has a DVI-D plug and the other has an HDMI plug.

Get THIS CABLE (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10238&cs_id=1023801&p_id=3043&seq=1&format=2&style=)!

tat2boy

03-08-07, 08:04 PM

A 40 foot DVI cable is going to give me bad picture quality right?
I actually have a Monoprice.com 35' DVI run from my Oppo dvd player to my Infocus 4805 and the picture quality is fine. I'm sure 40' is no problem either.

juser

03-08-07, 08:37 PM

yes its facing straight at the wall at no angle at all. Ok, thanks for the tip. Hmmm, maybe my wall is not a perfect straight either (this is England after all).

I am using a painted tile board. Last winter, it was fine, over the summer the humidity caused it to bow a little in the middle. :eek: Took me a while to figure out why the middle and the edges couldn't all be in focus at the same time.l :o

juser

03-08-07, 08:45 PM

My yellow band started right after I took it apart to clean a dust blob. Its not that bad, I am the only person who notices, but I DO notice.

Now I am having a problem where it doesn't start on the 1st try. Sometime the fan just kicks in on high and I have to power down and restart.

I am so on the fence on buying a IN72 for $500. Sooner or later I will need a new bulb for the 4805, but I really want to hold out for a true HD projector. *sigh*

llars

03-08-07, 09:49 PM

Are you using DVI-D or DVI-A?Assuming you are using DVI-D the answer is NO. Why do you say that?Why would an HDMI-M1 cable be any better than a DVI-M1 cable??!! :confused: The video signal and the wiring inside the cable is IDENTICAL! The only difference would be that one has a DVI-D plug and the other has an HDMI plug.

That's what I was looking at getting except without the USB. I am using DVI-D. I read somewhere that DVI is sketchy after 15 feet because of a lack of power from the source, but HDMI can go much farther depending on the cable quality.

smithfarmer

03-08-07, 10:06 PM

That's what I was looking at getting except without the USB. I am using DVI-D. I read somewhere that DVI is sketchy after 15 feet because of a lack of power from the source, but HDMI can go much farther depending on the cable quality.
I'm using a 50' DVI-M1 cable from monoprice with no problems at all.

cavu

03-09-07, 12:20 AM

That's what I was looking at getting except without the USB.You might as well get it with the USB connection. It will make it a LOT easier to upgrade the firmware without taking the PJ off the ceiling mount.

ale

03-09-07, 07:14 PM

After enjoying my 4805 for the past couple of years I finally pulled the plug and decided to upgrade to the Panny Ptax100u. Although the Panny is a noticiible step up, its not a huge step by any means. Comparing the two side by side reiterered how great the 4805 stacks up to even HD projectors. It still is a fantasitc projector. I have a 35' M1/DVI-D cable I no longer need, if anyone is interested. Really enjoyed lurcking on this forum..

dagware

03-11-07, 09:04 AM

mwagner9

03-11-07, 09:12 AM

My 4805 has developed the yellow band on the lh side of the screen. This is apparantly caused by failing glue in the light tube. I have serach in vain for information on the procedure to do a DIY fix. I have been inside these projectors many times and know how to get to the mirrors. I'mlooking for information on the actual repair

I think my projector may have also developed this problem. I took a picture of it. I have to admit that I had been lax on my maintenance on my projector, and hadn't cleaned the dust filter out like I should have. Now I have a yellowish-brown band of color on the right side of my image. I thought it might have gotten hot enough to melt something.... maybe the glue on the mirrors? IS there a way to fix this? Mine is definitely out of warranty. Am I out of luck for a fix for this? Is it time to buy a new projector?

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/mwagner9/IMG_3866.jpg

mwagner9

03-11-07, 09:18 AM

Does anyone here have a Wii and either a PS3 or Xbox 360? I'm curious if the PS3 or 360 look significantly better on a 4805 than a Wii? Obviously you should compare to a Wii game that supports 480p and 16x9.

Since the Wii only supports 480p, while the PS3 and Xbox 360 support true HD resolutions, on true HD displays this would obviously make a difference. But I wonder about the 4805, which of course is 480p.

Anyone? If not, I'll go post on the Wii forum, but I thought I'd try here first.

-Dan

I have both, but I was not able to use my Wii in my home theatre room. There were a couple of problems. One, the picture from the Wii would not fill up my whole screen, which I probably could have tweaked a little. The BIG, BIG problem was that the screen was too big. I have a 102" diagonal screen, and with the sensor bar on top of it and me at my regular seating distance, the pointer from the Wii-mote would skip all over the place at the edge of the screen. Then, when I would pop in a game, I would get a message telling me to move closer to the screen. I actually had to sit about 8 feet away, which is 6 feet closer than my front row of seats, and actually be in the path of the projection to get it to recognize my remote. I moved it back to my living room and smaller 27" TV. \

The Xbox 360 on the other hand looks AWESOME. I did find that it looks better if the Xbox outputs 720P and the projector downscales it rather than output true 480P. I tested this with a couple of games, and some text would be blurry at 480P and crystal clear at 720P. So, apparently the projector can scale better than the xbox... ?

mwagner9

03-11-07, 01:59 PM

Well,
In regards to my post above withe the burned image on the right side of my picture, I read the threads and figured that it seemed like the light tunnel problem. Well, I hesitated at first, since I have never cracked the case on my projector before, but I took the entire thing apart. Since I had no idea what I was doing I pulled everything out of the case :) my light tunnel was in fact unglued, it came out in two pieces, and when i fumbled one of them, I had three. Whoops. However, I was able to glue it back together using some calipers to hold the pieces and some super glue. Put it back together and the problem is not totally gone, however, it is only a thin brown line at the top of the picture now instead of a very thick (8") burned line on the side. Since many movies are 2.35 aspect ratio I don't think I will ever notice it, except watching HD or playing Xbox 360. I did manage to take a couple of pictures of the procedure, but I doubt they would be of any help to anyone.

I have to say that the construction of that little tunnel was not what I would call "robust" the edges were barely touching and it only had a little glue to hold it together. They definitely could have splurged a bit, and made the pieces a few thousands of an inch larger, thereby allowing more surface area to be glued.

That being said, although I think I fixed it well enough that I can live with it, I am sure that I need a new light tunnel to make it 100%. The little mirror pieces themselves had a little discoloration on them, probably from being too hot, and that is the most likely source for my continued brown line even after re-assembly.

If anyone wants I can post the picture of how I did it with a description, but I don't know how much it will help. I needed three hands to actually do the gluing so I took only a couple of picture of how I set up to do it.

Thanks,
Mike

dagware

03-11-07, 02:21 PM

I have both, but I was not able to use my Wii in my home theatre room.
Thanks for your post. If you're interested, you can solve your problem with the big screen and the jumpy cursor. It's really not related to the screen size so much as it is the Wiimote not being able to pick up the signals from the sensor bar. You can either get one of the third-party sensor bars that have just come out -- they reportedly produce a stronger signal, or you can roll your own. Hop over into the Nintendo forum here and look at some of the threads on this issue. And FWIW, I play on a 108" screen and sit 10-12 feet away with no problems, so it *is* possible.

As for the image not filling up the screen, for me it depends on what game I'm playing. The Wii menu, Wii Sports, and Zelda fill up the entire screen. Others vary. But even if it doesn't fill the entire screen, it's still cool.

Back to my original question: When you*did* have the Wii hooked up to the 4805, did you think the image was close to the 360, or did the 360 still look a lot better? I realize on a higher-def PJ it would be no contest, but how about our beloved 4805? Do you remember, or was it just to frustrating and you put it out of your memory? :cool:

-Dan

MurphyAgain

03-11-07, 02:36 PM

smithfarmer

03-11-07, 04:34 PM

Back to my original question: When you*did* have the Wii hooked up to the 4805, did you think the image was close to the 360, or did the 360 still look a lot better?

In the same way that HD cable/sat signals look better than 480i/P on the 4805, so will HD signals from an Xbox 360/PS3.

mwagner9

03-11-07, 09:06 PM

Here are a couple of picture of my ghetto repair. I didn't use any special tools, so it might turn out better if you have something.. though I couldn't even think of a tool that would make this easier :)

Here are the parts on my table. I had two mirrors that were still attached, forming an "L" and two single pieces. I am certain I would not have been able to put it back together had the "L" fallen apart. It certainly would have been easier had I not busted up two of the pieces that were together, but the glue was not very strong.

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/mwagner9/IMG_3870.jpg

Here is my "clamp" I managed to align the pieces standing up on my table, then grabbed them with my calipers, which was the best clamp I could think of. Definitely helped that the jaws are perfectly perpendicular. After grabbing it, I brushed super glue on the back sides on the mirrors to make them grip. I used a little too much on this first set, a little goes a long way. Don't put too much on the flat surfaces as it will make it hard to line back up in the light tunnel holder in the projector.

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/mwagner9/IMG_3871.jpg

Here is the piece glued on.

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/mwagner9/IMG_3879.jpg

For the last piece, I again gripped it in the calipers, then brought the other small piece in from the open side of the jaws. Once lined up, I then used a small flat file from my gunsmiths toolbox to fold the mirror in place, while I glued it on with my free hand. I wasn't able to take a picture of it, and I forgot to take a picture of the completed assembly too. But, you should be able to use your imagination for that part.

Now that I have done it, I know I didn't have to take all the circuit boards and other stuff out of the projector to actually get at the light tunnel. But it certainly was a learning experience.

Though, I can't say that a part of me was sad that I fixed it, as I was kinda hoping to "upgrade" if the projector went south :)

Hope this proves interesting :)

Mike

mwagner9

03-11-07, 09:11 PM

Back to my original question: When you*did* have the Wii hooked up to the 4805, did you think the image was close to the 360, or did the 360 still look a lot better? I realize on a higher-def PJ it would be no contest, but how about our beloved 4805? Do you remember, or was it just to frustrating and you put it out of your memory? :cool:

-Dan

Dan,
Thanks for the tip on the sensor bars, I will go check it out. Surprisingly enough I never even thought to look on the forums here, wish I had left all the cables and things in place, as they are a pain to snake through my cabinet. I've seen some DIY sensor bars before, never really thought that one would work better than the real deal :)

To answer your real question (I know I got off topic a bit) the Xbox looks much better. Though, it does have 4x antialiasing, and a lot more graphical horsepower. The Wii looked good too, I don't think it is totally fair to compare them as they are not quite the same kind of thing. I would love to play the Wii on the big screen, the bowling and other games would be a blast in my HT room. just move the recliners out of the way and have some fun :)

spyder696969

03-11-07, 11:13 PM

Here are a couple of picture of my ghetto repair...Though, I can't say that a part of me was sad that I fixed it, as I was kinda hoping to "upgrade" if the projector went south :)

Hope this proves interesting :)

Mike
Nice job, Mike! and it appears you managed to do the whole thing in your pajamas. :D

mwagner9

03-11-07, 11:16 PM

Nice job, Mike! and it appears you managed to do the whole thing in your pajamas. :D

Didn't get out of my pajamas all day. Sunday's are great like that sometimes :) Got to spend the afternoon plopped in front of the big screen, catching up on the DVR programs and playing xbox.. Rough life. :)

dagware

03-12-07, 01:07 PM

Dan,
Thanks for the tip on the sensor bars, I will go check it out. Surprisingly enough I never even thought to look on the forums here, wish I had left all the cables and things in place, as they are a pain to snake through my cabinet. I've seen some DIY sensor bars before, never really thought that one would work better than the real deal :)
Glad I pointed it out then. :)

To answer your real question (I know I got off topic a bit) the Xbox looks much better. Though, it does have 4x antialiasing, and a lot more graphical horsepower. The Wii looked good too, I don't think it is totally fair to compare them as they are not quite the same kind of thing.
I know the 360 has better horsepower -- what I didn't know was how evident this would be at 480p. Thanks for the info.

I would love to play the Wii on the big screen, the bowling and other games would be a blast in my HT room. just move the recliners out of the way and have some fun :)
I love Excite Truck and SSX at 108". Very immersive.

Thanks for replying!

-Dan

dagware

03-12-07, 01:10 PM

In the same way that HD cable/sat signals look better than 480i/P on the 4805, so will HD signals from an Xbox 360/PS3.
Well, that's what I was trying to find out -- if that was true. I assumed it was true, but then I thought I'd check out my assumption. For once, it turns out my assumption was right! That doesn't happen very often. :p

-Dan

qfloyd25

03-19-07, 11:00 AM

Quaid

03-19-07, 11:55 AM

[edit] I didn't read your post correctly.

Try pressing auto-source. If that does not work, make sure the secondary output from your computer is working (turned on) in the display controls.

vttom

03-19-07, 12:02 PM

Hello all I need some help. I am trying to figure out how to connect my computer to the projector.

I have the following connections now:

1. Directv HDDvr via M1-HD
2. DVD player via component

I bought a vga cable and a vga to s-video cable from Monoprice. I haven't been able to get it to display a picture.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

QFloyd25The VGA to S-Video route isn't going to cut it. There's a world of different between a VGA signal and an S-Video signal - It would take a whole lot more than just a cable to convert from the first type of signal to the other.

The only way to get native VGA into the 4805 is through the M1-DA port (using either the cable they included with the projector, or an M1-DA to VGA adapter plus a regular VGA cable).

Problem is, you're already using the M1-DA port, and you're probably using it from the HDMI output of your DirecTV receiver. I don't know of a switcher that lets you mix-and-match HDMI and VGA.

Your options are:

1) Manually plug/unplug the DirecTV receiver/Computer using the M1-DA port when you want to switch from one to the other.

2) Use the DirecTV receiver's Component Video output, then get a Component Video switch to share the Component Video input on the 4805 between the DirecTV reciever and the DVD player. This would free up the M1-DA port for exclusive use by the PC.

Taz123

03-19-07, 10:31 PM

Hi,

I have a 4805 that I bought new about 2 years ago, it has around 400 hours on it. The bulb doesn't come on when I turn it on. The green light comes on, and the fans come on but no light from the bulb. I've had this problem before. I turned it off and back on again and it worked. But this time it's not working. Any suggestions? I am pretty sure my bulb is still good, this is some kind of circuit problem.

Thanks

Ja Phule

03-19-07, 10:42 PM

Taz123

03-20-07, 12:43 AM

Thanks that fixed it. I didn't even remove the bulb, just unscrewed and then rescrewed the housing. Weird problem.

junaid5888

03-20-07, 05:44 AM

I have an Infocus 4805 for about a year now. Its just done about 450 hours on the lamp. I am a videoholic so i assume the picture very critically. Recently i have noticed that the picture is not as sharp as it was before. So i thought it must be a focussing issue which i tried to resolve by adjusting the focus. But it does not help. I have a 5'x 8' screen. The weird thing is that not everything is out of focus. For eg. when i throw a picture & carefully assume it, its on some 6 to 7 spots or sections of the screen where its coming up. I've read about the dustblob cleaning pictorial here but no blobs are prominent on the screen like the guy displays on his sample picture in the pictorial. Just out of curiosity i threw a blank screen ( black ) & kept a piece of plain paper about 6 inches away from the pj & to my surprise i find multiple dots, which is of course dust, appearing on the paper. I tried to clean the lens from outside but of no use. The spots are still there. So as far as i think, like a small 2 inch by 4 inch image displayed on the paper could get as big as 5 feet by 8 feet on the screen, so can the small dots of dust magnify to be portions of blur, which im referring to. Do i need to really open the projector & do the cleaning? Im used to diy but the only thing im scared of is removing the rings by a lasso. Please advice. Thanks

vttom

03-20-07, 09:28 AM

jvos

03-20-07, 09:41 AM

I apologize in advance as I'm sure this has probably been asked and answered before. However, the searches I did were not able to provide the answers I need.

My situation is this - I have a Comcast Moto HD box hooked up to the 4805 via DVI and a DVD player connected via Component. This setup has been working just fine for the past couple of years. If you wish to watch TV, turn on the STB and the pj displays it. If you want to watch a DVD, turn on the DVD player and the 4805 would display it.

Then, the other night, I went to watch a movie and could not get the 4805 to recognize the DVD signal (component). I double checked the connections, tryed the auto-sync button and nothing. I finally disconnected and reconnected the component cables from the DVD player and the 4805 found it! We watched a couple of movies that even.

Last night, my daughter and a couple of friends wanted to use the theater. Again, the 4805 wouldn't recognize the component input again. I could turn off the DVD player and turn on the STB and TV would be displayed, but no matter what I did, I couldn't get the pj to display the DVD feed. Again, I double checked all connections on source and pj. No joy!

Thoughts?

spyder696969

03-20-07, 10:08 AM

jvos, try adjusting your synch threshold to "0".

vttom

03-20-07, 11:51 AM

FWIW, my DishNetwork ViP622 receiver never actually turns "off". Maybe it powers down some internal circuitry when it's "off", but it's always putting out a valid video signal (over all outputs - HDMI, Component Video, etc.)

Perhaps your cable box used to turn off the video output, but a recent software update pushed out by your cable provider altered that behavior so now the video output is always on?

You can test this by powering up the DVD player, unplugging the cable box, and then observing if the 4805 switches over to the DVD player automatically.

jvos

03-20-07, 01:44 PM

spyder696969 and vttom - thanks for the ideas. I'll give them a try.

BTW, I should have probably mentioned that the component outputs go thru an Onkyo AV receiver. Again, its been hooked up this way for quite some time, so don't believe its the setup.

thunderfire

03-20-07, 02:53 PM

utopia1956

03-20-07, 05:32 PM

speed32219

03-20-07, 08:51 PM

Hi Everyone.

I have a 4805 (shocking huh!)

Have had it for 2 years with 5000+ hours
(on 2nd Bulb plus I have another new spare one)

It has devolped a yellow streak on the far right hand side.

I remember reading some posts about this a while back about something inside coming unglued?

I looked in this and the first thread but with thousands of posts I couldnt find the info I was looking for.
I also looked in japhules FAQ and I didnt see it in there either.

Can anyone point me to the right info

Ditto to what utopia1956 posted.

Shocking, NO! I love my 4805, in fact I'm rarely here, moved on to content storage, Digital media centers, linux video servers, etc. (Thx to Ja Phule's sig, My DVD Server, word of caution do not make a mistake and click on it)). Although I do get the urge every once and a while to add another PJ, I am just skerwd. I love the CR, brightness and detail that this puppy puts out using a 1.0 gain screen. With viewing of 95% SD material and HDTV broadcasts (In a very well light controlled room with seating 2.3x screen) I just don't see any PJ worth upgrading to (I do not need to tweak, I just use the RGB offsets/gains/contrast/brightness of the DVI-D/M1 setup posted here and never changed a thing and I am extremely happy) I have looked at 720P models and really do not see any significant difference if any. And I still get the WOW factor, so I too am a lowly sp4805 user.

5000+ and on your second bulb and still have another spare, heck you should post that out in a separate thread. I'm sure the Sanyo/Panasonic/Optoma owners would appreciate it. :D

Well off to fire her up and watch Blood Diamond and The Holiday.

thunderfire

03-20-07, 08:53 PM

It's the light tunnel mirrors coming unglued. Look back a couple weeks to mwagner9's posts for pictures of the repair

Doh, how did i miss that. I feel very silly.

Thanks for the advice.

The yellow strip isnt too bad at the moment but by the sounds of it, it will only get worse.
Im kind of scared to take the machine apart. Its out of warranty.

I also have another brand new bulb which makes me think I should either try and repair it or try and buy a cheap used 4805 without a bulb.

If anyone else has tried this repair and could give me some advice/pointers I would be most grateful.

junaid5888

03-21-07, 04:14 AM

I'm familiar with the procedure you're talking about. I've done it myself. I, personally, did not use the "lasso" method to remove the focus and zoom rings. I tried, but couldn't seem to get it to work. I got them off by carefully prying with a flat-bladed screw-driver.

Other than that, I followed the instructions to the letter, and it worked out very well for me. I was done, start to finish, well inside an hour.

But do u think its advisable in my case to go ahead & clean the dust inside? Also the left side of my screen goes out of focus when i focus the right side & vice versa. What do u think is wrong?????

vttom

03-21-07, 09:08 AM

But do u think its advisable in my case to go ahead & clean the dust inside? Also the left side of my screen goes out of focus when i focus the right side & vice versa. What do u think is wrong?????From your OP, it sounds like you did the blob test (held a piece of paper in the light path very close to the lens) and saw blobs. IT's up to you whether you think it's bad enough to take the projector apart to fix it.

As for the uneven focus. Double-check that:

1) The projector is aligned at a right-angle relative to the screen.
2) The screen is perfectly flat.

If both (1) and (2) check out, then maybe there's a mis-alignment in the projector itself. If that's that case, then you might need to intentionally skew the angle of the projector relative to the screen to compensate.

eightbit

03-22-07, 10:03 AM

The Infocus 4805 is on woot right now for $385 shipped. Is that a good deal on this projector refurbished? What other projectors fall into this price range that would be better?

mbennum

03-22-07, 10:31 AM

you can get an IN72 for a little bit more than that but you'd have to deal with rebates and stuff. I'd say it seems like a decent deal.

MurphyAgain

03-22-07, 12:01 PM

How are refurbed 4805's in terms of reliability?

i would pass on the 4805.Just due a search in the 4805 thread for image and light tube .

The 4805 was great but real dim not to mention loud.
I would pass on a refurb and grab a NEW IN72 its worth the little extra and the rebate wait.

These units are descontinued and refurbs can be real nasty.

cheers

eightbit

03-22-07, 01:47 PM

i would pass on the 4805.Just due a search in the 4805 thread for image and light tube .

The 4805 was great but real dim not to mention loud.
I would pass on a refurb and grab a NEW IN72 its worth the little extra and the rebate wait.

These units are descontinued and refurbs can be real nasty.

THanks! I passed on the deal, I guess I'll keep waiting for someone to give me a projector.

speed32219

03-22-07, 03:00 PM

i would pass on the 4805.Just due a search in the 4805 thread for image and light tube .

The 4805 was great but real dim not to mention loud.
I would pass on a refurb and grab a NEW IN72 its worth the little extra and the rebate wait.

These units are descontinued and refurbs can be real nasty.

cheers

Murph, real dim? U know u r in the 4805 forums? :D

I'll see if I can get a pic of my saved (not viewed yet) American Ido shot like yours. But it will be in SD.

To dim, just becuase u jumped ship and got a new bulb. :D

dagware

03-22-07, 03:59 PM

I guess I'll keep waiting for someone to give me a projector.
Yeah, let us know how that goes. :rolleyes: :D

-Dan

spyder696969

03-22-07, 05:39 PM

The 4805 was great but real dim not to mention loud.
I would pass on a refurb and grab a NEW IN72 its worth the little extra and the rebate wait.

These units are descontinued and refurbs can be real nasty.
While I'd agree with most points, I would never call the 4805 "dim". If such is the case, then the IN72 should absolutely be considered "dim" as well, being a mere 200 lumens brighter.*

*Now, if you've got a 4805 with 4000+ hours on it like mine and move to a new IN72, then...

MurphyAgain

03-22-07, 07:04 PM

While I'd agree with most points, I would never call the 4805 "dim". If such is the case, then the IN72 should absolutely be considered "dim" as well, being a mere 200 lumens brighter.*

*Now, if you've got a 4805 with 4000+ hours on it like mine and move to a new IN72, then...

we did a shot out with a 4805 ( with new bulb and a brand new IN72 ) we could see a big difference in brightness. i guess it only takes 200 lumens to makes a diffrence.

this is one of the biggest reasons 4 out 4 of my buddies sold their 4805s on eBay and grabbed the $400 IN72'S on woot.( just about an even exchange ) now they ( and myself ) can watch with out being in total darkness.

then again spyder we dont have 4000 hours on the unit yet i'm sure there going to dim i just hope i can make do untill HD material is the norm so i can then upgrade.

cheers

twisted_oak

03-24-07, 03:40 PM

Need a little help here folks....

Setup...

Abit NF-M2
65w 3800+ x2
2 gigs 667 DDR2
400GB SATA WD
ATI HDTV Wonder
MCE 2005 Rollup 2
Sp4805

I can use the VGA M1 cable that was included with the Infocus successfully. However, I cannot us the DVI cable I purchased from Monoprice. DVI will not display anything, nor look like it ever tries to synch up. For giggles I added a x800GTO2 from my regular computer and it would not do anything on DVI to the projector either.

The history of the cable....

I have used it successfully with an HDMI adapter to an HDMI RCA 8060N. It would pass TV channels across to projector. It would display the usual DVD player menu. However, about 80% of my commercial DVDs would give blue screen, with audio in the background. I always thought this was some sort of HDCP synch issue because of the blue screen on the DVD side as I would never fault my projector. As an experiment I ripped a commerical DVD to a DVD5 (removing the protection) and it played fine via HDMI/DVI connection to the projector.

I used to have HD digital cable and this passed to the projector via DVI. I used a DVI>VGA converter on the computer DVI port and can pass signal to a 17" Sony monitor.

I have replaced the M1>DVI with another cable from Monoprice (12'). This also exhibits the same behavior. I tested this cable with the PC to monitor. It was ok. I tested it to the 8060N via HDMI adapter(480p is displayed on projector.)

It is looking like an issue with my projector then? Help a brother out.

Mods...I know this is a double post, but I was getting no love in the HTPC area. ;)

adude

03-24-07, 04:19 PM

twisted_oak

03-24-07, 04:41 PM

twisted_Oak,

You can try it this way. Shutdown the computer. Connect only 4805 through the DVI cable/display card. Then start the computer. If you can get the initial boot screen on the 4805, then it means the video signal is reaching the 4805 and cable is fine. If you loose the screen at windows GUI, then it means something wrong with the display driver. Also, make sure the display card is outputting DVI-D and not DVI-A.

HDCP comes into effect only for video. And that too if the video player software enforces it. I never had any issues with HDCP (zoomplayer + nvidia purevideo + nvidia 6600GT) So you should at least get windows desktop on the screen.

A Dude

Thanks for the quick reply. I just tried that again, as instructed, and no post screen, no windows splash, no desktop. I have verified it is outputing 640x480 on bios and windows splash when booting from vga cable.

Remember also peeps, I have successfully used the M1>VGA cable with DVI>VGA converter on the video cards DVI port. I have no video, at any time, when using either monoprice M1>DVI-D cable. No attempt by the projector to synch, nada.

Master_Shake

03-24-07, 04:45 PM

I've posted in several different forums, including the HTPC sections of this one and nobody has been able to help me, so here's my question. I recently built a new system with a 8800 GTS that has dual dvi outputs. I am using my Dell LCD and the 4805 gets detected and it even shows 848X480 as a resolution I can choose.

However, the card will only send 1024X768 to the 4805 no matter what settings I choose. Also, even if I have clone mode chosen it still only shows that 1024 as a portion of the desktop and not a clone. I have tried everything I could in the Nvida control panel and even tried setting this up through the XP display options and still have the same results. I am using the latest official Nividia drivers.

This is quite frustrating as the dual dvi outputs was a main reason I chose this card.

vttom

03-24-07, 04:56 PM

Is the DVI cable DVI-A (analog only), DVI-D (digital only) or DVI-I (both analog and digital)?

The 4805 supports all three. Does the ATI HDTV Wonder?

I'm going out on a limb here, but I'm thinking that if the cable is DVI-I, maybe the 4805 is expecting a digital signal from the card but the card is sending analog, or vice-versa. Can you try a DVI-D cable?

Also, what operating system are you using? I know how to specify a debug flag to X windows that will dump a log of the negotions between the video card and the display device. I don't know how to do this in Windows.

vttom

03-24-07, 04:59 PM

Ja Phule

03-24-07, 05:20 PM

twisted oak,

Some 4805 users have had an issue with it's digital input via the m1 port no longer works, even though analog via m1 works fine. They had to get Infocus to fix it.

twisted_oak

03-24-07, 05:44 PM

twisted oak,

Some 4805 users have had an issue with it's digital input via the m1 port no longer works, even though analog via m1 works fine. They had to get Infocus to fix it.

Thanks for the heads up. This statement definitely makes me feel better and makes sense considering my findings. The VGA cable being used to the DVI port of the HTPC would be sending an analog signal since, well, it's is a VGA cable.

mwagner9

03-25-07, 10:13 AM

Doh, how did i miss that. I feel very silly.

Thanks for the advice.

The yellow strip isnt too bad at the moment but by the sounds of it, it will only get worse.
Im kind of scared to take the machine apart. Its out of warranty.

I also have another brand new bulb which makes me think I should either try and repair it or try and buy a cheap used 4805 without a bulb.

If anyone else has tried this repair and could give me some advice/pointers I would be most grateful.

Thunder, did you try and fix this? Have any luck?

Make sure you have cleaned out your dust filter BTW, as I believe that is what caused my unit to get hot enough to melt the glue - too much dust obstructed the airflow. Learn from my laziness - I sure did!

Mike

PatrickGSR94

03-25-07, 04:37 PM

I suddenly noticed an issue on my 4805 with a slight flicker on dark scenes. Funny thing is I did not notice it last night when watching a movie. I tried 2 different DVD's today and got the same flicker on dark/black scenes.

I've had the 4805 since November 2005. My lamp hours counter somehow reset itself sometime last year, but I would estimate only about 400 hours on the lamp, definitely not more than 500 hours.

I've never cleaned out the inside of the projector, would that help anything? I also read about a firmware update, could that help? Mine is currently running 1.1.3.

Also, a few times I have forgotten to turn off the main power switch after shutting down, on two occasions for over a week at a time, with the color wheel spinning that whole time. Could that cause any problems?

spyder696969

03-25-07, 05:33 PM

I've never cleaned out the inside of the projector, would that help anything?
Couldn't hurt, but I doubt it would fix this problem.

Also, a few times I have forgotten to turn off the main power switch after shutting down, on two occasions for over a week at a time, with the color wheel spinning that whole time. Could that cause any problems?
That's not the CW spinning, it's the fan...makes for a great air filter if you don't have one. ;) I dont' see how leaving it on for that short time could have damaged anything though, unless your air has large shunks of debris in it.

PatrickGSR94

03-25-07, 06:32 PM

so if the main switch is on but the projector is off, the fan always spins 24/7? I wonder why they made it do that....

Ja Phule

03-25-07, 07:37 PM

spyder696969

03-25-07, 08:21 PM

so if the main switch is on but the projector is off, the fan always spins 24/7? I wonder why they made it do that....
That's "Standby Mode". To me, that was about the only flaw with the 4805. It would have been nice if IF could have put in a timer that shut the unit down completely after 10 minutes. If I needed an air filter, I'd buy something other than a projector. :confused:

Personally, I use a remote-controlled power switch that shuts off the PJ at the outlet without ever using the unit's remote for a soft power-down at all. This lets the bulb cool down in a slow, gradual, natural way to the ambient temperature, rather than forcing it to cool rapidly via the fan. :cool:

4,000+ hours on the original bulb now, so I must be doing something right. :)

hawaii23

03-25-07, 10:39 PM

thunderfire

03-26-07, 12:02 AM

Hi Everyone.

I have a 4805 (shocking huh!)

Have had it for 2 years with 5000+ hours
(on 2nd Bulb plus I have another new spare one)

It has devolped a yellow streak on the far right hand side.

I remember reading some posts about this a while back about something inside coming unglued?

I looked in this and the first thread but with thousands of posts I couldnt find the info I was looking for.
I also looked in japhules FAQ and I didnt see it in there either.

Can anyone point me to the right info

Ok, here is an update from my post of 3/20 above.

And its not a good one!

As correctly predicted by fellow members the tiny yellow stripe tuned into half the screen going dark LOL as presumably the light tunnel mirror glue crapped out!

As I said the current unit has 5000+ hours, current bulb has just under 2000 hours

I do have a spare brand new bulb.

I love everything about the machine.

Assuming I cant glue the mirrors..................

Here is where I need some expert advice.

Do I..............

(A) try and get a used 4805 off EB (with no bulb) and hope it doesnt have the same problem in the future

(B) Go for the IN72 and sell my spare bulb

(C) Also thinking about the MIT HD1000u also selling the bulb.

I should add we mainly use the projector for SD satellite TV and some DVD
Nothing HD yet, although we may upgrade toa HD sat reciever?

Thanks in advance for any tips.

PatrickGSR94

03-26-07, 12:09 AM

Personally, I use a remote-controlled power switch that shuts off the PJ at the outlet without ever using the unit's remote for a soft power-down at all. This lets the bulb cool down in a slow, gradual, natural way to the ambient temperature, rather than forcing it to cool rapidly via the fan. :cool:

4,000+ hours on the original bulb now, so I must be doing something right. :)

whoa hold up, I ALWAYS thought it was extremely bad to just turn the unit off suddenly. I thought that was the reason why the fan ran at higher speed when doing a soft power down. I know other projectors like film and overhead projectors are like that, too. You're never supposed to just shut off the fan and bulb immediately, the fan is always supposed to run for awhile to get the heat AWAY from the bulb before completely cutting off the power.

Ja Phule

03-26-07, 12:26 AM

I always shut mine off entirely with the toggle switch so the fan is not running (hopefully the toggle switch holds out)....I probably should just turn it off at my power strip since I also turn that off. Spyder696969, if you have gotten 4000 hours shutting it down immediately like you do, then I have many more hours of enjoyment!

Ja Phule,
What else does the latest firmware update(s) do besides eliminate the dark flicker? I have not upgraded mine at all since I bought it in Dec, 2005. Am I missing much? Thank-you.

Infocus gives a list of what is updated on their web page here:
http://www.infocus.com/service/sp4805/software.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&

IMHO, the most important updates since the original firmware are the automatic re-sync of the picture after switching resolutions (1.13) and getting rid of the flicker (1.3.2).

spyder696969

03-26-07, 02:31 AM

whoa hold up, I ALWAYS thought it was extremely bad to just turn the unit off suddenly. I thought that was the reason why the fan ran at higher speed when doing a soft power down. I know other projectors like film and overhead projectors are like that, too. You're never supposed to just shut off the fan and bulb immediately, the fan is always supposed to run for awhile to get the heat AWAY from the bulb before completely cutting off the power.
This just always seemed to be more of a common sense thing to me. What is more stressful on metal (or all solid objects, for that matter)? Cooling down gradually or a sudden forced drop in temperature? This not only applies to the lamp, but to all the other parts of the PJ as well.*

*The exception to this seeming to be the least stressful tactic would be the obvious case where one intended to move the hot object immediately, particularly into a cooler environment. Fortunately, my PJ never moves, save for the lamp door during cleaning. ;)

Here is something sort of similar to what I use, though mine has a SP: http://www.outletpc.com/c5937.html

It's also a convenience thing to us. No waiting around for fan cooling, no $500 air filter 24/7, no fumbling with a power strip. Simply hit the keychain remote for the PJ and the Harmony "OFF" button right before passing out at the end of the day. :) (Our 4805 is a bedroom HT setup)

PatrickGSR94

03-26-07, 12:54 PM

thunderfire

03-26-07, 12:59 PM

Ok, here is an update from my post of 3/20 above.

And its not a good one!

As correctly predicted by fellow members the tiny yellow stripe tuned into half the screen going dark LOL as presumably the light tunnel mirror glue crapped out!

As I said the current unit has 5000+ hours, current bulb has just under 2000 hours

I do have a spare brand new bulb.

I love everything about the machine.

Assuming I cant glue the mirrors..................

Here is where I need some expert advice.

Do I..............

(A) try and get a used 4805 off EB (with no bulb) and hope it doesnt have the same problem in the future

(B) Go for the IN72 and sell my spare bulb

(C) Also thinking about the MIT HD1000u also selling the bulb.

I should add we mainly use the projector for SD satellite TV and some DVD
Nothing HD yet, although we may upgrade toa HD sat reciever?

Thanks in advance for any tips.

Ok, this story (novel?!) took a turn for the better...........

I discovered that when I bought the machine from CC I bought the extended warrenty which goes to 2009!
So obviously I am not going to attempt to open up the machine arepair the light tunnel.
Spoke to support and they are sending me an RMA via email within 24 hours.

Now this changes everything.

Lets assume that it is the light tunnel issue.

(1) Will they repair the machine?

(2) Will they send me a refurb?

Also anyone have any idea how long it will take to get it back once sent?

Im still think of buying a in72 or Mit 1000 and selling my 4805 when I get it back?

DenM3

03-26-07, 04:49 PM

cavu

03-26-07, 04:55 PM

In 2005 I went through three players before I could get one (the bravo) that did a handshake with the projector. The first three had HDCP issues.The Bravo doesn't have HDCP so it can't have "HDCP issues". :rolleyes:

No other DVD player at ANY price will match the PQ of the Bravo units setup in 1:1 pixel-mapped, 48/72Hz mode.

Period.

hawaii23

03-26-07, 05:06 PM

Infocus gives a list of what is updated on their web page here:
http://www.infocus.com/service/sp4805/software.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&

IMHO, the most important updates since the original firmware are the automatic re-sync of the picture after switching resolutions (1.13) and getting rid of the flicker (1.3.2).

Ja Phule, Thanks for the info AND the link. Unless my PJ was manufactured before 9/05 I should be OK except for the 1.3.2 update. I have not noticed any flicker so I'll update when something bad happens to the picture. :) or should it be :( Anyways, after going to the page from the link, I now wonder whether I registered the PJ or not. Thanks, again.

mrpergo

03-26-07, 08:00 PM

Ok, this story (novel?!) took a turn for the better...........

I discovered that when I bought the machine from CC I bought the extended warrenty which goes to 2009!
So obviously I am not going to attempt to open up the machine arepair the light tunnel.
Spoke to support and they are sending me an RMA via email within 24 hours.

Now this changes everything.

Lets assume that it is the light tunnel issue.

(1) Will they repair the machine?

(2) Will they send me a refurb?

Also anyone have any idea how long it will take to get it back once sent?

Im still think of buying a in72 or Mit 1000 and selling my 4805 when I get it back?

I sent mine in for the light tunnel repair under warranty in Jan.
The replaced the light tunnel and did a cleaning with a 2 week turnaround, door to door.
I'm very happy with the results.

spyder696969

03-26-07, 08:01 PM

I would have thought that if you don't let the fan run for awhile after shutting the lamp off, the heat coming off the lamp would linger inside the projector housing, which can't be good. Letting the fan run for a minute after shutting off the lamp gets the heat out of the housing. I think if you just shut it off, the lamp is going to stay hot longer, whereas if the fan runs for a bit it will gradually decrease temp. The fan is always running when the lamp is on anyway, so simply turning the lamp off while the fan still runs isn't going to cause any sudden drops in temperature, I don't think.
Again, what do you think is more stressful:

Gradual cooling (ala all of nature) or manually forcing a scorching hot and thus somewhat pliable solid* down to room temperature and its contracted, "natural" solid state?

As we all know, heat rises, and the only thing above the lamp is the unit's casing, which can certainly withstand whatever heat is harmlessly and slowly dissipated after the unit is shut down entirely.

*The term "solids" is specifically used in reference to not only the bulb, but so as to also include the capacitors, boards, lens, and other parts of the unit as well.

Disclaimer/Stipulation: If one intends upon reusing the unit in the near future (under 90 minutes) then a shut down with the fan left on via the PJ's remote only would be preferable to a hard shut down via the toggle switch or other means. Repeated powering up/down of the unit is the #1 reason for premature lamp failure, however, and is not recommended, as 1 lamp strike = 2 hours.

twisted_oak

03-26-07, 09:41 PM

I have just gotten through with three support calls with Infocus regarding my no video from DVI issue.

I spoke with Justin, Jeremy, and Alex. Those are the most interesting names I have ever heard from people from the Middle East. All assisted me for over an hour each. Each one having me repeat the same steps over and over again. Each one given me one last thing that I would have to get off the phone to perform.

I am a computer technician. I work on commercial mainframes for a living. I am a network engineer. This is not braggery. Just my resume of sorts.

Keep in mind that as the call began I gave all the steps I had performed prior to calling in and those steps I had repeated for the sake of technical checklists..

These steps include:

Using another DVI video card in same PC.
Bringing a completely different computer to try the projector.
Fooling with all the supported resolution allowed by the video card in Windows.
Purchasing a new M1>DVI cable.
Purchasing a DVI>VGA adapter to test if analog information is being passed from the DVI port of the computer.
Updating firmware to 1.3.2
Messing with that Synch setting thingamabobber in projector.

The most hilarious parts of these conversations follow.....

1> I was referred to my manual to verify my connections to the projector.

2> How does the DVI connection look on your computer? Huh?

3> Are you using a desktop computer or laptop? okay....

4> Sir, I will need you to change the video card resolution to 1024X768. He gives me all the steps as I politely listen. After he is finished I state what does this have to do with BIOS or post screens which are of a lower (supported) resolution. Long pause....pages heard flipping. Sir, please perform a factory reset, I am SURE that will fix it, when you get home and call back.

5> After repeating all the steps I had performed on my own and the factory reset the other technician had suggested, the person said I should update the firmware and call back. I said I already have 1.3.2 on the system and it is most current available. He then gave me the web address to find the firmware?

Keeping in mind I had supplied all my information over and over again including case #....

6> Sir, I am showing your warranty has expired (Okay, if this is true....Why has every technician assisted me for many minutes?) I respond the warranty (2 years) has not expired I purchased this in late 05 and registered sometime in early 06. I am sorry sir, that is what our records show. ( Keep in mind this guy kept talking about RMA-ing my unit the whole conversation. Sir, one more troubleshooting step further and I can get your unit replaced...) So, I respond, I have the receipt (Which I do, and show a purchased date of late/middle 05.) A long, long, pause is heard. You can fax it to (503) 685-7239 with Case#blahblah and I will personally update it in our records for you.

For Sh*ts and giggles I call back and do not supply any identifying information except my SN: The call takes around 10 minutes. Uh, it is showing '04...ummm er '04. Another long pause. Sir our system is down and I cannot give you the proper date. He takes my email and promises a response via email. Still waiting 4 hours later.

I have worked in a contracted call center before for Gateway ( I know, I know...) I was a supervisor over people who were actually encouraged to keep people on the phone for a certain amount of time ( to get paid ) and to make it difficult for replacement/onsite service. I had various call center managers actually ask me to disconnect people and lie to them.

This behavior I have observed in Infocus is indicative of what I was surrounded with at that call center. Following a troubleshooting flow chart. Burying the customer/client more and more steps until they became frustrated and gave up or a supervisor was asked for.

To be fair to Infocus, since I have had a love affair with my projector, is that they made a solid product. Maybe they have moved support to India or something to cut costs. If every one remembers how big Gateway became (ala Dell for this generation), cutting and trimming costs. Outsourcing support to unmanaged, unmonitored facilities to cut some sort of bottom line or squeeze more profits out of a product that has better name recognition. Hmmm, what is happening to Dell now? Same thing. I am not saying Infocus is a huge, globally recognized name by either of these standards, but they will never make it there if support is this robotic, patronizing, etc etc etc.

Sorry for the rant. I have heard of other people dealing with outsourced support from other companies. I consider myself to be lucky I can usually solve most of my problems on my own. This is obviously one I cannot fix on my own and I am needing a better response from the manufacturer.

spyder696969

03-27-07, 12:20 AM

I spoke with Justin, Jeremy, and Alex. Those are the most interesting names I have ever heard from people from the Middle East....This is obviously one I cannot fix on my own and I am needing a better response from the manufacturer.
twisted_oak,
There are a few names and numbers of people to contact directly in the US in this thread. If I remember correctly, it seems like it's not more than 20 or so pages back. Good luck.

Ja Phule

03-27-07, 02:12 PM

twisted_oak,
Unfortunately, Infocus hasn't been doin well and has moved their support to India within the past year. They're also going away from the mass market and are concentrating more on the high end market from what I understand.

twisted_oak

03-27-07, 02:51 PM

twisted_oak,
There are a few names and numbers of people to contact directly in the US in this thread. If I remember correctly, it seems like it's not more than 20 or so pages back. Good luck.

I looked over the past 25-30 pages. I might have missed the numbers for those people. Is there anyone here who knows the exact page in the thread where those numbers are located?

Thanks.

twisted_oak

03-28-07, 04:26 PM

Ok, I almost purchased an IN72 on the cheap yesterday just so I wouldn't have to deal with the problem with my 4805. I realized I have an extended warranty through CityAdvantage and will wait until the manufacturer warranty runs out. I called them three times and I actually got people based in America.

I definitely will not purchase another Infocus product again. I know this is moot considering they are moving out of the low-mid market. ;)

DenM3

03-29-07, 09:56 AM

I have an SP4805 that is directly connected DVI to a Bravo D2 DVD player. I want to get a new DVD player. Anyone have any reccomendations that are tried and true?

In 2005 I went through three player brands before I could get one (the bravo) that did a handshake with the projector. (The Bravo is now having hiccups) The first three had HDCP issues.

What DVD are y'all using via DVI to your 4805?

Thanks for any tips

I can't believe that in this group of extremely creative people there is not another person using a DVD player connected via HDMI or DVI that is not a Bravo.
Can anyone help a brother out?

Please put aside picture quality for right now, and tell us what you are using via DVI or HDMI. Inquiring minds would like to know.

Thanks gang.

spyder696969

03-29-07, 11:52 AM

I can't believe that in this group of extremely creative people there is not another person using a DVD player connected via HDMI or DVI that is not a Bravo.
Why mess with perfection, and once achieved, accept anything less? :confused:

Try a Momitsu, Snazio, or another Bravo. Nothing else.

Oppo or HTPC are distant seconds, but typically cost far more or are much more of a hassle.

olp79

03-29-07, 02:01 PM

I'm having a slight problem with my 4805 and hope someone can help me out with this.
I have an xbox 360 as well as a pioneer dvr-310 hooked up to the 4805. When i put a dvd in the 360 and have it set to HDTV, it displays the movie in 480p, but there are black bars on the top and bottom of the screen, and this is cutting off the top and bottom of the picture. I can't even see the options on the main menu page such as play movie, or special features, set-up, etc. If i switch the 360 to TV and it displays in 480i, then the whole picture shows up. I also have the HD-DVD add-on for the 360, and everything works fine in 720p and 1080i, but it does the same thing when in 480p.
The pioneer dvr-310 has the same bars and cuts off the picture, when I switch it to progressive (480p), and when I switch it back to interlaced, I can once again see the whole picture.
I also have this setup running to a 50 inch plasma, and there are no bars when either player is playing 480p.
Anyone know why the full movie doesn't show on the 4805 when watching 480p?
Thanks
Mike

Notti

03-30-07, 11:47 AM

I reached the 3000 hour mark the night before. I'm glad I got this many hours. Yesterday, I tried to turn it on and got 2 red blinks. According to the manual, I need to change the bulb. I took the bulb out and put it back in, and it still gave me 2 red blinks. It didn't turn on, so I couldn't reset the bulb counter.

This morning I saw in the manual that I can reset the bulb counter by pressing the volume buttons for 10 seconds. Is this how you overrode the bulb hour limit, those of you who are using the 4805 beyond the limit?

Spongeworthy

03-30-07, 12:05 PM

This morning I saw in the manual that I can reset the bulb counter by pressing the volume buttons for 10 seconds. Is this how you overrode the bulb hour limit, those of you who are using the 4805 beyond the limit?That should work. I used the remote to go to the Settings>Service menu and selected Lamp Reset

Ja Phule

03-30-07, 06:49 PM

Ja Phule

03-30-07, 06:53 PM

rajeshramhit

04-01-07, 11:25 AM

Today I was running the my SP4805 projector with a laptop and DVI connection.It was running fine then i toggled off the switch and removed off the power cable and went out.After I came in after 5-10 mins and put the power cord again and toggled the power switch to ON position there was a spark near the power input and the projector is not turning on now.What do you think has happened and what is the resolution now to get this repaired?
Would really appreciate your quick response, as i am afraid that whether the projector is severly damaged? I don't see any reasons why this should have created spark.

tried to switch on again and found that mains was tripped at the power inlet into my house after which i have kept the projector in safe place now…:-(

Regards,

spyder696969

04-01-07, 12:54 PM

...After I came in after 5-10 mins and put the power cord again and toggled the power switch to ON...
Why are you turning the PJ on and off at 5-10 minutes? :eek:

vttom

04-01-07, 01:01 PM

tried to switch on again and found that mains was tripped at the power inlet into my house after which i have kept the projector in safe place now…:-(Have you reset the breaker and tried to turn it on again? I've found that a lot of consumer electronics can arc when unplugged and re-plugged due to capacitance in the power-supply. Also, are you sure you got it plugged in correctly? Are you using a 3-pronged cord and a properly grounded 3-pronged outlet?

dogmanky

04-01-07, 01:04 PM

You guys probably all know of this, but I'm too lazy to search the 4805 threads to find out.

I assume the 4805 is the same as my X1 in regards to the color wheel so you guys should all check out your color wheel for nastyness..

I did on my 3.5 yr old X1 and it's a nice way to bring your Projector back to life!

Color Wheel cleaning thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=380491)

:D

adude

04-01-07, 03:04 PM

I can't believe that in this group of extremely creative people there is not another person using a DVD player connected via HDMI or DVI that is not a Bravo.
Can anyone help a brother out?

Please put aside picture quality for right now, and tell us what you are using via DVI or HDMI. Inquiring minds would like to know.

Thanks gang.

Lot of users (including me) on this forum like Bravo D1. It's a good player for the price once it's quirks are sorted out. I have not used Oppo, but from what I have read, it offeres very good PQ. You can even try a used HD-DVD player too. It's SD-DVD playback is considered great and it can play the HD-DVD's as well.

I come from HTPC land. A properly configured HTPC with ffdshow + limitedsharpen + lanczos resize will blow any other DVD player away. Bravo D1 cannot even come close. Look at Luis's old pictures of his setup at Link (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6652552&&#post6652552) to see what can be achieved. If you already have a PC with DVI output, you can give it a shot.
Beware, once you are in, you will be spending lot of time tweaking and it never ends. That's the only reason I got rid of HTPC and went with Bravo. I can do away with PQ and go with convenience. Also, Bravo D1 couldn't be beat for $50 price when it was available.

bvo

04-03-07, 04:36 PM

My Infocus 4805 projector, which I love by the way, is experiencing the ole light tunnel syndrome where there is a discoloration on the left side of the projected screen. It's out of warranty. I'm pretty good at fixing stuff so I thought I'd give it a try.

Has anyone actually tried to make a light tunnel and duplicate the pieces of mirrors for the infocus 4805 (others call it a light pipe) ?

I have searched on this forum and found where guys have re-glued the 4 pieces of mirror back together and had success. How critical are the dimensions of these parts?

Thank you for your responses.

bvo

04-03-07, 04:42 PM

lne937s

04-03-07, 09:20 PM

vttom

04-03-07, 09:43 PM

I have another question for someone. I currently have satalite HD feed into the M1 connector on the back of the infocus 4805 projector. I would like to also feed my computer to this same connector. What is the best way to easily switch between these 2 devices. Is there a simple (cost effective) switch out there that would serve as an A-B switch?

Thank you for all of your responses.By M1 I presume you mean you have some kind of DVI->M1 cable or HDMI->DVI->M1 cable.

At any rate, I'm using something similar to the following with my 4805, an HD satellite reciever, and an up-converting DVD player:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=3047&seq=1&format=2&style=

Ja Phule

04-03-07, 11:22 PM

Ja Phule

04-03-07, 11:30 PM

I just want to check to make sure.

My 4805 stopped working the other day. Just stopped and there was a blinking light (red, I think). When I try to restart it with the on/off switchon the side, the green light keeps blinking, the fan turns on, then it turns off. Wait a little bit and it turns on and then off again. No light from the bulb at all. After a while, it blinks red 1 time with two seconds in between.

This is the bulb burned out, right? I've been using it on a daily basis for ~2 years. Just want to check one last time...

Page 44 of the manual describes the blinking behaviours.

1 blink with 2 second pauses - Check lamp and lamp door for loose connections (I'd recommend taking out the lamp and putting it back in)

2 blinks - lamp hours exceeded. If your lamp is still good, just reset the counter by holding the volume up and volume down keys on the actual projector for 10 seconds

3 blinks - projector has shut down. Check if lamp door is open loose. Turn off the projetor for a few minutes and turn it back on. Replace lamp if nothing happens.

4 blinks - the fan has failed, contact tech support for repair/replacement

5 blinks - projector is overheating. Check that air vent is not blocked and clear it if needed

KezFlyer

04-03-07, 11:54 PM

I'm very new to projectors having just bought a second hand Infocus 4805, can anyone help?

I have an Infocus DLP projector, its a few years old but the lamp has only done 200hrs, I have a problem with a vertical dark bar down the right hand side, approx 30cm wide when screen is at full resolution, its not a solid block of colour, more a dark blur on the right hand side.

Do you have any advice as to what this could be and is it fixable?

bvo

04-04-07, 09:42 AM

Thanks vttom! Yep...that's what I am looking for. I have a DVI cable coming from my satalite receiver which then connects to a DVI to DVI-M1 adaptor cable (short cable I bought from Infocus). This adaptor cable connects to the DVI-M1 connector on the back of my 4805 projector. So now if I purchased this switchbox I can use this to switch back and forth for my TV and computer. Thanks vttom for your research and providing me with a link.

Thank You.

Quaid

04-04-07, 11:03 AM

Wendell C

04-04-07, 12:47 PM

My 4805 went dead today, the pic went out and the light on the projector flashed red. I shut it down for a few minutes turned it back on and light still flashing red. I'm assuming it needs a new bulb, it probably had about 2000hrs and going? Where can I get a replacement for cheap or buy a new projector?

Martin Butler

04-04-07, 01:26 PM

Hi guys, I'm listing a bunch a cables later today at Audiogon/Videogon, but these are too low priced to be worth paying for a listing. Please PM me if you're interested. 6" M1 to DVI-D and an Audioquest F-DVI to M HDMI adapter. Both are as new.

dagware

04-04-07, 04:42 PM

Hey guys, if I replaced my 4805 with something that did 720p or higher, would I be likely to notice a difference? I realize some of it will depend on my own eyes, but here's some information which may help: I'm currently projecting on a painted white wall in a room with virtually no ambient light, and I think it looks great. (That should tell you something about me right there -- sometimes ignorance is bliss.) I use an image size of around 80" for standard TV and such, and about 108" for watching movies and HD events -- I can slide my PJ forward and backward on the ceiling -- see my sig for details. I sit about 12' from the wall.

My thinking is that since I sit as far away as I do, it's possible that I wouldn't be able to tell the difference. What do you guys think? BTW, I don't have any particular new PJ in mind -- just wondering.

-Dan

spyder696969

04-04-07, 05:17 PM

Hey guys, if I replaced my 4805 with something that did 720p or higher, would I be likely to notice a difference?
Barely, if any, given your seating distance and viewing patterns. Better for you to get the IN72 if you have upgrade-itis and spend your remaining money and time on inventing more cool things like your mount. :)

Martin Butler

04-04-07, 06:41 PM

dagware

04-05-07, 10:07 AM

Barely, if any, given your seating distance and viewing patterns.
Thanks for confirming what I already thought.

Better for you to get the IN72 if you have upgrade-itis and spend your remaining money and time on inventing more cool things like your mount. :)
Why would I want to go to the IN72 if it's going to look basically the same? I don't mean this to sound glib -- I really want to know. I value your opinion (as well as the other regulars here).

As for the mount, it was purely an answer to a problem I was having. The PJ is my main TV. Since we don't go out to the movies any more, we wanted it to feel "special" when we watched movies (or the occaisional HD special event, like this week's Masters). When everything is viewed at the same size, nothing seems special. So I cooked up the mount as a solution, and it serves its purpose well. I still need to paint it... :rolleyes:

-Dan

dagware

04-05-07, 10:17 AM

I agree with spyder, bump to the IN72, sit as far back as you can. 14' is even better if you have room. Do get yourself a screen though. It's a huge improvement. I used a wall for a few days while waiting for my screen to arrive and thought it looked great also... until my screen was up.
Two suggestions, if you want to save money, get a frame at an art store for $15 or less, buy just the screen fabric and staple or velcro it on. Forget time wasted painting goo on a board, this is a fast as could be. Try calling AVS to get DaLite's HCCV screen material, it's as good as you can get without going up to the pricey Stewart screens. Second, try painting the one wall where the screen is a darker color like grey, burgundy. It helps tremendously, even if you have white walls and ceiling. Good luck.
I'm reluctant to go the screen route, because when I change image sizes, I'm afraid it will call attention to the size difference. Same thing for painting the rest of the wall (although we've always intended on painting the rest of the room a darker color). As it is now, whether I watch a 4:3 image, or a small or large 16:9 image, it all looks like that's what it's supposed to be. So for instance I don't mind watching a 4:3 movie as much, if that's all that's available (unless it's true pan-and-scan, in which case I can't watch it no matter what). I'm afraid a screen will take away from that. And right now I think it looks good, so I still believe ignorance is bliss. What I don't know won't hurt me. :o

-Dan

Martin Butler

04-05-07, 10:32 AM

Dagware, I don't watch that much 4X3 content. Most tv programs I watch are in widescreen in high def. The few 4X3 shows I do watch are often news and non pq intensive material. The occasional true 4X3 material looks fine, even if there's dark areas on the sides, it's certainly not important enough for me to sacrifice the benefits of a real 16 X 9 screen. Almost every recent movie and most high def programs are widescreen. It's great that you enjoy what you have, but if you knew what you're missing and realized you could have it for less than $100 and an hours labor, I doubt you'd be happy about it. I'll make a prediction, few people who care enough about having a home theater experience enough to bother buying a projector, and then spend time in an A/V chatroom are going to remain "ignorant" of the benefits of having a real screen for too long. ;)

spyder696969

04-05-07, 10:36 AM

Why would I want to go to the IN72 if it's going to look basically the same?
Remember, I did say: "if you have upgrade-itis". Since you asked about replacing the 4805 but did not mention the bulb hours/price as a motivator, I made an assumption about your inquiry. If you don't have any real need to go to an IN72, such as a dying bulb, necessity of HDMI port, or a black, ufo-type shell to look at, then just keep the 4805. It's a phenomenal machine and you're not risking experiencing any of the fuse or other problems of the IN72. OTOH, the IN72 remains at a fantastic price right now (at least until 6/30/07) so it's a great time for a "sidegrade" that won't cost you much.

As a side note, and with no disrespect to Martin, as long as your wall is not textured and is painted with a correct paint, the need for a screen (for you) is not that great, given your viewing habits and setup. FWIW, since I have textured walls, I do have a DIY BO screen myself that cost me about $35 and 30 minutes total to build.

Upland

04-05-07, 12:36 PM

dagware

04-05-07, 12:46 PM

I'll make a prediction, few people who care enough about having a home theater experience enough to bother buying a projector, and then spend time in an A/V chatroom are going to remain "ignorant" of the benefits of having a real screen for too long. ;)
Bastard. :p All right, I can't ignore that argument. I'll see what I can do about ordering some screen material. But when my wife asks me about it, I'm going to blame it on you! :D

-Dan

dagware

04-05-07, 12:50 PM

Remember, I did say: "if you have upgrade-itis". Since you asked about replacing the 4805 but did not mention the bulb hours/price as a motivator, I made an assumption about your inquiry. If you don't have any real need to go to an IN72, such as a dying bulb, necessity of HDMI port, or a black, ufo-type shell to look at, then just keep the 4805. It's a phenomenal machine and you're not risking experiencing any of the fuse or other problems of the IN72. OTOH, the IN72 remains at a fantastic price right now (at least until 6/30/07) so it's a great time for a "sidegrade" that won't cost you much.
Thanks, that explains it. I'm not going to comment on the state of my current PJ because I refuse to utter "famous last words". :p

As a side note, and with no disrespect to Martin, as long as your wall is not textured and is painted with a correct paint, the need for a screen (for you) is not that great, given your viewing habits and setup. FWIW, since I have textured walls, I do have a DIY BO screen myself that cost me about $35 and 30 minutes total to build.
He talked me into it. I'll look into ordering the material and see what I can come up with.

-Dan

Martin Butler

04-05-07, 01:33 PM

Dag, try Jason here at AVS. In your situation I believe the best possible choice is the DaLite HCCV ( High Contrast Cinema Vision). It helps with ambient light reflections from a not totally blacked out room. The IN72 is plenty bright and blacks are helped along a bit. It's the closest thing to an $1800 Stewart Firehawk/ Greyhawk screen I could find.

dagware

04-05-07, 02:12 PM

scooterboy

04-05-07, 04:29 PM

Hey guys, if I replaced my 4805 with something that did 720p or higher, would I be likely to notice a difference?

Barely, if any, given your seating distance and viewing patterns.
Interesting - I'm in the same boat - considering upgrading from the 4805 to a 720p machine.

But the only difference is since I also sit 12 feet away, I limited my screen size to 6 feet wide (infamous 2X rule). I want to have a bigger image, but didn't want SDE. So I thought a 720p machine would enable me to increase my screen size without increasing SDE, still sitting at 12 feet.

Is that a false assumption?

(Uses are HDTV, DVD, and SDTV in that order - I'm waiting for the dust to settle before getting into either flavor of hi def DVD)

spyder696969

04-05-07, 05:12 PM

...I also sit 12 feet away, I limited my screen size to 6 feet wide (infamous 2X rule). I want to have a bigger image, but didn't want SDE...
How much bigger do you want to go?

How close can you get now without SDE being a real issue for you?

thunderfire

04-05-07, 05:16 PM

Martin Butler

04-05-07, 05:56 PM

Anyone here need the 6" (10" total) DVI to M1 adapter? I'm selling mine . PM me if interested. I know that at times they can be difficult to find, and I don't need one anymore. Almost forgot, I have an Audioquest Female DVI to Male HDMI adapter I no longer need.

Notti

04-05-07, 08:33 PM

Anyone running a a HD-DVD or Blue Ray DVD player through their 4805? I'm curious to know if it would be worth it to upgrade my DVD player.

Would DVD's look that much better? I'm currently using an older Pioneer DV-525 player.

TIA

Some HD DVD player seems to out-perform SD DVD players in SD DVD playback. But the difference is not that significant. I don't know if I want to get a HD DVD player just for SD DVDs. On the other hand, if you can rent or purchase HD-DVDs or Blu-ray DVDs, yes they "look that much better."

zaphod7501

04-05-07, 10:08 PM

As a side note, and with no disrespect to Martin, as long as your wall is not textured and is painted with a correct paint, the need for a screen (for you) is not that great, given your viewing habits and setup. FWIW, since I have textured walls, I do have a DIY BO screen myself that cost me about $35 and 30 minutes total to build.As long as your texture is minimal, and you have no light coming in from the sides, and your seating distance is sufficient, then even texture may be invisible (and it could help breakup some of the sde).

I found through experimentation using bright light sources that my texture completely disappeared at 10 - 12 feet. With a 10 foot wide image and 15 - 25 foot seating, the picture was identical to a BOC screen (after painting with Kilz2 Latex Primer). The room is fully light controlled, especially from the sides and the Cathedral ceiling helps minimize the upward light reflection.

spyder696969

04-05-07, 10:24 PM

As long as your texture is minimal, and you have no light coming in from the sides, and your seating distance is sufficient, then even texture may be invisible (and it could help breakup some of the sde)...
Interesting info, zaphod. Thanks for the input. I'd love to see (own) a 4805 thrown out to 150" diagonal like yours. Unfortunately, my bedroom isn't 25 feet long.* :o

When I do get one that big, I'll get my harem and doubt I'll ever leave the room. :D

Luis Gabriel Gerena

04-06-07, 12:30 AM

Anyone running a a HD-DVD or Blue Ray DVD player through their 4805? I'm curious to know if it would be worth it to upgrade my DVD player.

Would DVD's look that much better? I'm currently using an older Pioneer DV-525 player.

TIA

I have the Toshiba HD-a1 and I feel the difference is worth the money indeed. It is not real HD but still color resolution alone is enough to deliver a much cleaner image than regular DVDs. Samething with some good Comcast HD broadcast...cant get enough NHL, Boxing and NBA! :)

dagware

04-06-07, 04:19 PM

As long as your texture is minimal, and you have no light coming in from the sides, and your seating distance is sufficient, then even texture may be invisible (and it could help breakup some of the sde).

I found through experimentation using bright light sources that my texture completely disappeared at 10 - 12 feet. With a 10 foot wide image and 15 - 25 foot seating, the picture was identical to a BOC screen (after painting with Kilz2 Latex Primer). The room is fully light controlled, especially from the sides and the Cathedral ceiling helps minimize the upward light reflection.
FWIW, my walls are not textured, and I can get the room pitch black.

I'll make a prediction, few people who care enough about having a home theater experience enough to bother buying a projector, and then spend time in an A/V chatroom are going to remain "ignorant" of the benefits of having a real screen for too long. ;)
I mentioned this quote to my wife, and her response was exactly the same as mine, as in "<sigh> I can't argue with that. I guess we should look into it, huh?" Don't I have a great wife? :D

-Dan

scooterboy

04-06-07, 04:43 PM

How much bigger do you want to go?

How close can you get now without SDE being a real issue for you?

I was hoping I could increase the screen width to 8 feet or so. Is there an analagous rule of thumb for 720p, e.g. a "1.5X rule"?

My eyes are pretty good. If I get any closer than the 12 feet I sit from the screen, I can see SDE.

So would a 720p unit let me increase to 8' wide without SDE?

spyder696969

04-06-07, 05:37 PM

I was hoping I could increase the screen width to 8 feet or so. Is there an analagous rule of thumb for 720p, e.g. a "1.5X rule"?

My eyes are pretty good. If I get any closer than the 12 feet I sit from the screen, I can see SDE.

So would a 720p unit let me increase to 8' wide without SDE?

You'll always have SDE, even with a 1080p unit. The difference is how much you notice it. I fiigure you likely knew already that, but I couldn't resist...sorry. ;)

8' wide should come out to about 110-120" diagonal, making the seating distance nearly 1:1. With one of the budget 720p units right now, you have to ask yourself, "Though the SDE will be reduced, can I live with shoddy color and poor black levels? Is a slight increase in screen size worth humans that look like aliens or sunburn victims?"

If you're going to go with a quality 720p or better unit, this won't be an issue, though you're looking at what typically would be a 6X increase in cost over the IN72.

I'd try a slight de-focus of the lens before plunking down $3000+ if SDE is your only issue.

scooterboy

04-06-07, 10:21 PM

Wow - I must not have made myself very clear - sorry.

You'll always have SDE, even with a 1080p unit. The difference is how much you notice it. I fiigure you likely knew already that, but I couldn't resist...sorry. ;)
Yes, I know there'll always be SDE, but different resolution PJs allow you to sit at different distances in order not to see it, yes?

8' wide should come out to about 110-120" diagonal, making the seating distance nearly 1:1.

The 2X rule of thumb I'm remembering for the 4805 was for screen width, not diagonal measurement. That's why I limited my screen width to 6 feet because I was sitting 12 feet away. And it turned out to be very accurate - from where I sit, I'm hard-pressed to see the SDE with the 4805. If I move any closer though, it becomes visible. I don't currently have a problem with SDE at 6 feet, but if I enlarged the 4805's image to 8 feet, it would be much more noticable.

I was hoping that with a 720p model, the SDE factor might be reduced to say 1.5X and I could increase to 8-9 feet wide and still not notice SDE sitting at 12 feet away.

With one of the budget 720p units right now, you have to ask yourself, "Though the SDE will be reduced, can I live with shoddy color and poor black levels? Is a slight increase in screen size worth humans that look like aliens or sunburn victims?"

If you're going to go with a quality 720p or better unit, this won't be an issue, though you're looking at what typically would be a 6X increase in cost over the IN72.

I'd try a slight de-focus of the lens before plunking down $3000+ if SDE is your only issue.

So you're saying there's no reasonably priced 720p unit out there that has the same "bang for the buck" factor and nice picture that the 4805 has? If that's true, then I guess I'll be waiting until one shows up. I thought with the new models that people are talking about in recent threads here, that there was at least one or two that could produce as good a picture as the 4805, but at 720p.

Not true?

spyder696969

04-06-07, 11:48 PM

So you're saying there's no reasonably priced 720p unit out there that has the same "bang for the buck" factor and nice picture that the 4805 has?
Well, there's "reasonably priced" and then there's "budget" projectors. If you're thinking <$1000, then there's absolutely nothing. I followed more than a few of the first 720s that came out this year, and though it was nearly unanimous that less SDE was seen, there were far too many other issues to overcome for me. For something that's going to perform well, I'd say you're looking at a minimum of $1400, and that's probably with a rebate.

Maybe by BF (likely wishful thinking on my part) or first quarter of next year, the budget 720p units will have bumped down the price of a really good unit or two of that resolution to below a grand. Again, I'd try putting the pj slightly out of focus and see what happens...either that, or put back and few drinks right before the movie. ;)

foxtail

04-07-07, 09:25 PM

My friend has my old 4805 he turned it on but nothing happened except the (red?) light was blinking, does this mean it needs a new lamp?.

If so, best internet place to buy one?.

scooterboy

04-08-07, 12:20 AM

Well, there's "reasonably priced" and then there's "budget" projectors. If you're thinking <$1000, then there's absolutely nothing. I followed more than a few of the first 720s that came out this year, and though it was nearly unanimous that less SDE was seen, there were far too many other issues to overcome for me. For something that's going to perform well, I'd say you're looking at a minimum of $1400, and that's probably with a rebate.

Maybe by BF (likely wishful thinking on my part) or first quarter of next year, the budget 720p units will have bumped down the price of a really good unit or two of that resolution to below a grand.
Thanks - that's good info. I'm happy to wait it out with the 4805 then.

Again, I'd try putting the pj slightly out of focus and see what happens...either that, or put back and few drinks right before the movie. ;)
And again, I don't have a problem with SDE now. I don't know why you keep assuming that I do. I don't need to put the picture out of focus - I like my current picture perfectly fine. I would only have a problem with SDE if I made the picture larger with my 4805, which is why I was asking about a 720p unit.

spyder696969

04-08-07, 01:06 AM

And again, I don't have a problem with SDE now. I don't know why you keep assuming that I do. I don't need to put the picture out of focus - I like my current picture perfectly fine. I would only have a problem with SDE if I made the picture larger with my 4805, which is why I was asking about a 720p unit.
I should have stated that you could first move your current PJ back to simulate the new screen size and then de-focus the lens just to see if that would work for you. It's a minimal effort with maximum potential. Sorry, maybe I should have been more clear.

DBryant

04-08-07, 06:21 AM

Just bought one from Amazon for $400. New not a refurb...

scooterboy

04-08-07, 08:18 AM

I should have stated that you could first move your current PJ back to simulate the new screen size and then de-focus the lens just to see if that would work for you. It's a minimal effort with maximum potential. Sorry, maybe I should have been more clear.
Ohhhhh - now I get it. :)

Well I can't do that because the PJ is currently mounted against my back wall - can't go back any further, unless I cut a hole in the wall (which I actually considered doing when I first got the PJ). I do have some room on my zoom adjustment, but not enough to increase the image by a foot or two.

Plus, I really like a sharp picture. It would bug me to watch something knowing that it's not as sharp as it could be.

Thanks for all the info - like I said I think I'll wait it out.

JeffBankston

04-08-07, 08:56 PM

Hey everyone ... I think I'm going to rename the color wheel squeal to the "Squeal of Death", or SOD for short! LOL

I've been hearing the squeal for the last year and a half or so, but after consulting with you guys here on the forum, I decided to not worry about sending it in for service. It was probably just dust or something in the bearings, and besides, the sound always went away within a minute or two of starting. I just always tried to keep the filters clean to minimize the problem.

Well, yesterday, while my wife was watching TV we heard a loud shatter, and the projector shut down. I just assumed that the bulb had burst, unlikely as that might be, so imagine my horror when I pulled the bulb out and didn't see a color wheel anymore! There was one lonely shard dangling from the hub of the wheel, which finally fell when I wiggled the projector a little bit.

My assumption is that the squeal indicated that the bearings were going out, and they finally did, and when they heated up it shattered the wheel. Has anyone else seen this problem? I've had the projector for close to 3 years, I believe, so I'm well out of warranty, I think. I can either send it in to Infocus, or I can try to fix it myself. I'm an electrical engineer so I know my way around electronic gizmos. Anybody know where I can buy a new color wheel? Not sure if that kind of talk is forbidden here, but you guys may be my only place for help!

Thanks!
Jeff

vttom

04-08-07, 09:05 PM

I'm no expert on the subject, but if I were you, I'd start looking for people dumping their old SP4805s on eBay. You can either harvest parts from it, or if it's in good working order, move your lamp over and chuck your old unit (or keep it for parts).

spyder696969

04-08-07, 09:12 PM

Agreed. A bulbless unit can be had for about $100, which is cheaper than the CW itself, and 9X cheaper than the repair (at the last time I recall someone posting the cost of the fix).*

*Yes, you read that right. IF wanted $900 to fix it! :eek:

JeffBankston

04-08-07, 09:26 PM

Interesting approach ... I think I'll look into getting a used 4805. The only thing that worries me about that is that the color wheel might have already developed SOD ;) and I'd be looking at the potentially the same problem someday. Still, that's better than 900 bucks! My lamp's at about 3000 hours, so I'm probably due for a new bulb too, so maybe a new projector is the way to go.

spyder696969

04-08-07, 10:27 PM

My lamp's at about 3000 hours, so I'm probably due for a new bulb too, so maybe a new projector is the way to go.
Uh oh. Never mind. Just get the IN72 instead. The price is phenomenal right now. I sent you a pm.

Mako PJ

04-09-07, 03:34 PM

tempduke

04-09-07, 03:43 PM

Hi, I looked through the forum to see if anyone has the setup I am looking at, but didn't find any. I am looking to get a receiver that has two HDMI inputs and one HDMI output.

I intend to use one 35 ft HDMI to HDMI cable (monoprice) to connect the reveiver to the projector. To connect the HDMI cable to the projector, I intend to use M1-D Male to HDMI female adapter (Prodid 2689; monoprice).

To connect my Bravo to the receiver, I intend to use the DVI-D male to HDMI femal adapter(prodid 2029: monoprice), along with a HDMI to HDMI cable.

To connect my HD receiver to the receiver, I intend to use a HDMI to HDMI cable.

Comments and feedback on the above setup?? Any problems etc??

Thanks
Suds

speed32219

04-09-07, 04:17 PM

speed32219

04-09-07, 04:25 PM

I have been a rewarded 4805 user for 2 1/2 years, love my 4805. However, recently started to notice a semi-dark brown/green haze, that is the best way I can describe it on the left side of the edge of the picture. Basically, it goes over about an 1 to 1 1/2 inches from the edge almost all the way down. It's not a huge problem but if I can fix it or stop it from getting worse that would be great.

I cleaned the lense and inside lamp area, just put a bulb in during the summer have like 500 hours on it.

Any suggestions on what this could be? or what to do?

It is your light tube/tunnel, glue is giving out due to heat.

Go to page 226 , middle post for pic of what yours looks like. Then go to bottom of page 226 for pics on how it was fixed. You can fix it. Good luck, let us know how to works out.

PS. I still love my 4805 too!

Mako PJ

04-09-07, 04:52 PM

damn, didn't want to crack this thing open. Right now it's only like an inch, since that is what it is... i might wait till it's more of a problem.

thank you very much for the response.

It is your light tube/tunnel, glue is giving out due to heat.

Go to page 226 , middle post for pic of what yours looks like. Then go to bottom of page 226 for pics on how it was fixed. You can fix it. Good luck, let us know how to works out.

PS. I still love my 4805 too!

tempduke

04-10-07, 01:12 PM

I have the same setup using a older Yammy HTR5990 AVR. No Problems and love the flexibility (although I had a dvi-d to hdmi 3 ft cable for the Bravo). Just remember to set the gains and offsets to 58.5 and 28.5 per the Bravo D1_4805 thread. Enjoy!

Mad_Dog,

THANKS! Looking at Yammy myself...the RX-V1700.

speed32219

04-10-07, 11:44 PM

Mad_Dog,

THANKS! Looking at Yammy myself...the RX-V1700.

Good Choice, you will like it.

nk1124

04-11-07, 04:22 PM

The 35' cables I bought from monoprice that were M1->HDMI died after about 2 months of use each, but I have no experience on the HDMI ->HDMI cables.

Hi, I looked through the forum to see if anyone has the setup I am looking at, but didn't find any. I am looking to get a receiver that has two HDMI inputs and one HDMI output.

I intend to use one 35 ft HDMI to HDMI cable (monoprice) to connect the reveiver to the projector. To connect the HDMI cable to the projector, I intend to use M1-D Male to HDMI female adapter (Prodid 2689; monoprice).

To connect my Bravo to the receiver, I intend to use the DVI-D male to HDMI femal adapter(prodid 2029: monoprice), along with a HDMI to HDMI cable.

To connect my HD receiver to the receiver, I intend to use a HDMI to HDMI cable.

Comments and feedback on the above setup?? Any problems etc??

Thanks
Suds

compumanus

04-12-07, 01:13 AM

Wheres a good cheap source of replacement bulbs? Cheapest I can find is around $320. Id like to use my 4805 outdoors when we have guests over... but yeah Im currently bulbless :(

DenM3

04-12-07, 10:24 AM

Just wondering what all the HD and Home Cinema buffs here thinks about using movie downloads for watching movies...like the iMovie. Is the quality very good? I can't imagine that it is DVD quality since there is so much less data than what is on a typical DVD.

I know that as a video consuming society, we'll probably move much more into the realm of Video on Demand, but I question the quality aspect of this method. Many of the sales models have expirations built in.

Myself, I like to own the "favorite" movie, and pop it in once in a while.

Comments?

Thanks

mym6

04-12-07, 01:38 PM

I got a refurb 4805 which claimed 0 hours on the bulb but the casing and M1 connector show lots of use. Is there any real way to help verify this?

For what it's worth, here are some images of the PJ in action. I haven't full finished my setup so right now I'm projecting onto BOC at 54" in width. PJ is set to low power mode.

http://gallery.dustinrue.com/d/8439-2/IMG_2876.jpg - Lights off
http://gallery.dustinrue.com/d/8442-2/IMG_2877.jpg - with flash

spyder696969

04-12-07, 01:53 PM

I got a refurb 4805 which claimed 0 hours on the bulb but the casing and M1 connector show lots of use...
Take the bulb out of the lamp door and inspect it. Assuming you have not used the PJ more than a few hours, it should NOT show any sign of use, including, but not limited to; dust (or evidence of previous dust cleanings) on the filters, black marks/streaks/smudges, yellowing, or heat/stress-induced marks on the bulb housing. Refurbished 4805 units were often supplied with a new bulb when shipped out. Refurbished does mean used, btw. The other indicators are of no relevance to the bulb hours.

mym6

04-12-07, 02:03 PM

Ok, I have maybe 20 hours on the bulb now. I was aware of what refurb meant, but I didn't know if I could trust the hours meter. I'll have a look at the bulb tonight.

UnknownShadow

04-12-07, 02:23 PM

Wow, I haven't posted here in ages. Been enjoying my 4805 for 3 years now!

I'm not really interested in the 720p units, I'm holding out until 1080p hits this forum. Any chance of that happening this year or should I just go away and watch my 4805 for another 2 years and then check back ;-)

cnickersonjr

04-12-07, 07:12 PM

dmcdayton

04-12-07, 08:31 PM

The big change will be to LED, bulbless, colorwheeless 1080P...hopefully 2 years.

Ja Phule

04-12-07, 09:16 PM

Luis Gabriel Gerena

04-12-07, 09:21 PM

Ja Phule, I would have normally agree with you and in this case your are more than likely right but it seems file size is not everything. The reason I say this is because I recently compared a Blu-Ray rip of Casino Royale to the retail DVD version and the Blu-Ray rip blew the DVD out of the water in detail and color.

It wasnt like a side by side close up inspection was needed to find differences....a quick switch back and forth showed a remarkable difference.

The catch is that the file format was WMV 4.5GB compared to a dual layer DVD!
I was totally shocked by this to be honest. :-)

Ja Phule

04-12-07, 11:31 PM

Luis Gabriel Gerena

04-12-07, 11:35 PM

Who ever said size was everything? :)
:D

angel_jim

04-13-07, 08:59 PM

Clams Canino

04-14-07, 01:40 AM

Pretty hard for the PJ internals to do that. Sure you didn't bump the PJ turning it off? I've done that before.

-W

spyder696969

04-14-07, 02:27 AM

Sure you didn't bump the PJ turning it off? I've done that before.
Three words: remote controlled switchbox. :)

It will never happen again. I only touch my units for filter/lens cleans.

DenM3

04-14-07, 12:02 PM

I need help!!!!!

My projector was working fine last night, I turned it on tonight and the image has dropped over a foot and crooked!

The projector is a ceiling mounted and nothing has changed there. It looks to me like the mirror has dropped

Picture quality looks fine color and image is sharp

I think there was a minor tremor in your area yesterday.

Seriously, there are many things that can cause shifts in your mechanical mounts. The Spring weather has all your timber framing creaking back into place, heat build up near ceilings, hardware that you thought was tight really wasn't--and finally moved after sitting on the verge for two months, The cleaning lady hit it with a duster, etc. etc. Just reposition it and move on.

twisted_oak

04-17-07, 11:54 AM

Just wanted to post a note to commend Infocus for their excellent service.
(I had the CC extended warranty)

I had the light tunnel problem and sent it back on the morning of the the 28th March.
Recieved it back this morning.
Works perfectly, even upgraded the software.

In these days where poor service is commonplace its very refreshing.

Very impressed. Well done Infocus

You must have reached an "American" support person. My results are the opposite. Infocus support did everything to jettison me off the phone. I am still in warranty with Infocus until July. I will wait until that expires and go with the CC extended warranty. Seven calls to Infocus support yielded Seven obviously "non-Americans", thick accents, and names like Mike, Scott, Jeremy, etc. LOL
Calls to the CC extended were very helpful Americans. ;)

ravenus

04-19-07, 06:09 PM

Ive got an awesome problem....

my warranty is now up - and a week ago, my power jsut gave out completely - no flashing red or anything of the sort - took the thing apart to take a gander, and the fuse right beside the power cord socket was burnt - had a 250V 5amp fuse kicking around and threw it in - powered up... boom, fried it - anyone ever heard of such things? thanks in advance for any insight.

ps. I love this fricken projector!

Don

cavu

04-19-07, 06:12 PM

had a 250V 5amp fuse kicking around and threw it in - powered up... boom, fried itFried the new fuse or the projector?! :confused:

What was the value of the original fuse?

ravenus

04-19-07, 06:31 PM

Fried the new fuse or the projector?! :confused:

What was the value of the original fuse?

sorry, it fried the fuse - the value of the fuse I took out of the sexiest paperweight Ive ever owned was also 250V 5AMP...

ravenus

04-19-07, 11:18 PM

sorry all, but I must bump this for educational purposes.......

thanks!

Don

twisted_oak

04-20-07, 06:00 PM

Ravenus,

You have replaced the power cord and moved it to a different wall socket completely? I am sure you have, but I must ask. ;)

ravenus

04-21-07, 05:16 PM

Ravenus,

You have replaced the power cord and moved it to a different wall socket completely? I am sure you have, but I must ask. ;)

yes sir I sure did

ksmut

04-24-07, 02:21 PM

Just want to say thanks to everyone that's contributed to the color wheel cleaning topic. At first, I didn't think my color wheel was even dirty. But as I went along, I could see the grime coming off! I calibrated using THX optimizer before the cleaning. After the cleaning, and without recalibrating, the colors appear more saturated now with more contrast. Thanks again!

mym6

04-25-07, 12:00 PM

Lets review this CW squeal real quick. When I turn off my PJ the first thing I hear when it turns off the lamp is something stop. Is the CW stopped immediately after the lamp is turned off or is there another fan in the 4805 that might also be stopped right away. I can hear a whine from my PJ that goes away right after the lamp is turned off. It's no buzzsaw, but you can hear it. Is it normal on the 4805 to hear the CW at all? How quiet does this sound start out as?

I only have 90 days on this refurbed PJ so if there is a hint that the CW is going to give me trouble I want to get it fixed right away.

twisted_oak

04-25-07, 08:31 PM

Well, my baby just died. :(

Items leading up to it's demise....

1> Color wheel "buzz saw"
2> Strange fan noises
3> A few times the images was shifted to the right and required a reboot of computer.
4> It shut off randomly during video sequences with no red lights.
5> It shut off to blinking red light every 3 seconds.
6> Extreme heat in lamp area.
7> After leaving room at flashing red light to talk to support I came back in the room to a burning smell

Luckily, after bitching about a month back on the forum, I faxed a copy of my proof of purchase to get my warranty squared away. Looks like it is RMA time after 1 3/4 years of enjoyment.

Ja Phule

04-25-07, 09:00 PM

mym6

04-25-07, 09:12 PM

Are you sure it's the color wheel that you hear? The 4805 still has it's fan running if you shut if off with the remote. In order to have it completely shut off, you need to have it in the off switch manually on the projector or unplug it.

Yes, I'm positive it's not that fan. There is something that spins down right away when the lamp turns off, and a fan continues to run for a while, then stops leaving the power supply fan running. The noise I hear is a whine but isn't overly loud but is noticeable, particularly when you hear it stop but the main fan continues to run.

twisted_oak

04-26-07, 10:23 AM

I am no pro, but with my recent troubleshooting of my projector, the color wheel seems to be the first thing to come on when I power on my projector.

mym6

04-26-07, 10:28 AM

Great, what's the first thing to spin down when you turn it off with the remote?

bobbydazzler

04-26-07, 12:25 PM

Hi

I am not getting any sound out of my receiver after I switch on the projector although the video is fine.

Based on what I have read this seems to be a HDCP issue.

Can you tell me whether the HDMI > M1-DA adaptor is the cause of this problem or does the receiver think the projector is non-HDCP compliant?

Sorry if this has been asked before but I need to make a quick decission on whether to send back the receiver.

Thanks in Advance.

Setup:
DVD - Oppo DV-981HD
Receiver - Sony STR-DG710
Projector - SP4805
Connection - DVD <HDMI> Reciever <HDMI/M1-DA adaptor> Projector

Rob

vttom

04-26-07, 01:12 PM

Setup:
DVD - Oppo DV-981HD
Receiver - Sony STR-DG710
Projector - SP4805
Connection - DVD <HDMI> Reciever <HDMI/M1-DA adaptor> ProjectorSince the projector is natively DVI, which doesn't support audio over the data link, I think you're going to have to use the digital audio (either coax or optical) out of the DVD player into the reciever, like this:

DVD HMDI Out -> HDMI/M1-DA adapter -> Projector
DVD Digital Audio Out -> Receiver Digital Audio In

bobbydazzler

04-26-07, 01:49 PM

mym6

04-26-07, 01:52 PM

Thanks vttom

This is the same setup I have managed to get working. Just goes a bit against the grain not to used the HDMI switching on the receiver.

On a similar thread, does anyone think it is worth replacing the M1-DA adaptor with a HDMI/M1-DA cable from monoprice and go directly to the projector?

Rob.

It'd be fewer connections but seeing as how it's all digital anyway, a rather moot point. For what it's worth, I'm using a straight 50' VGA to M1 cable from monoprice and the quality is top notch for the price.

twisted_oak

04-26-07, 02:42 PM

Great, what's the first thing to spin down when you turn it off with the remote?

At this point I cannot say since my projector has failed completely. Sorry.

Sauwill

04-26-07, 06:21 PM

I know this has to have been covered in this HUGE thread but I have read nearly 100 pages and have not found a recent answer. I was given a 4805 that was only used for about 3 hours by a good friend. He purchased it new. I am now setting up my dedicated theater and will have a screen 48x85" and sitting about 14' from the screen. What would be a good choice of DVD player for this machine? I obviously am not concerned with HD DVD or Blu-Ray content at this time. Waiting for the format war to end and prices to come down. Thanks for the help!

Star56

04-26-07, 08:38 PM

?? How did you miss the hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of posts regarding the 4805 and the Bravo D1? Search....

spyder696969

04-26-07, 08:49 PM

What would be a good choice of DVD player for this machine?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=660701

Read this first, then send me a PM.*

*OK, you don't have to read ALL 122 pages of it, but skim it at least.

vttom

04-27-07, 10:31 AM

What would be a good choice of DVD player for this machine?I've got the Oppo OPDV971H. This DVD player and the SP4805 are a perfect match, IMHO.

Spongeworthy

04-30-07, 04:30 PM

I just went over 4,000 hours on the bulb. I must be on borrowed time, no?

mym6

04-30-07, 04:31 PM

I hope to see hours like that. What is your usage like? Short bursts of time or hours at a time?

spyder696969

04-30-07, 05:21 PM

4,600+ hours now here. Still looks great. Long hours per day. Short bursts = dead bulb.

mym6

04-30-07, 05:46 PM

Yea I'm going to chew through this bulb. Typical usage for me is playing games, so 1-2 hours at a time tops. In the last 2 months I've logged just 30 hours on the thing.

spyder696969

04-30-07, 05:53 PM

30 hours. We get that in 3 days. :)

twisted_oak

04-30-07, 07:48 PM

I think I was around 1300 hours when mine smoked.

Spongeworthy

04-30-07, 08:20 PM

I hope to see hours like that. What is your usage like? Short bursts of time or hours at a time?It's on about 6+ hours every night I'm home, but maybe 12+ hours on Saturday and/or Sunday if a game starts at 1:00. (The plus accounts for me falling asleep and turning it off in the wee hours when I wake up, not an infrequent occurrence.) No short bursts (< 2 hours) EVER. For much of the 1st year, I soft-powered down with the remote. Since then, I hard-power down with the main power switch. I clean the filters when I'm supposed to, but there's hardly any detectable dust anyway.

spyder696969

04-30-07, 09:10 PM

...Since then, I hard-power down with the main power switch...there's hardly any detectable dust anyway.
Good idea, as those two things go hand in hand, imo.

mym6

05-02-07, 11:24 AM

Explain why not allowing the fan to cool the bulb is better. This seems counterintuitive.

dagware

05-02-07, 02:49 PM

Explain why not allowing the fan to cool the bulb is better. This seems counterintuitive.
This has been discussed a bunch of times, and you could do a search to see those discussions.

The short answer is that when the fan cools down the bulb, it cools it abnormally quickly. It's kind of like taking something hot and plunging it into cold water, though obviously not as dramatic as that.

I haven't seen any studies on the subject, so I'm not sure how you decide what's correct. However, if memory serves me correctly, one of the proponents of letting it cool off without the fan works for (or used to work for) InFocus. Someone else can chime in here if you know to whom I'm referring. My memory sucks.

-Dan

mym6

05-02-07, 02:52 PM

I know I could search but I'm apparently search disabled. I can never search for two key words and get what I want. There is also a ton of discussion to wade through to find the info. If it's better to just turn the machine off then that's fine with me because I can then use an X10 appliance module to turn it off which will make the wife happier.

I guess the manual doesn't specifically state one way is worse than the other.

Martin Butler

05-02-07, 03:29 PM

Slow cooling is better, rapid cooling will stress glass.

spyder696969

05-02-07, 05:08 PM

I went to great lengths to explain this about a month back. I don't have the patience to go through it again, sorry.

mym6

05-02-07, 05:11 PM

Sorry spyder696969 I'll go looking for it then. I've always disliked forums for trying to get info on something. If you keep up it's fine, but when you're new...a wiki where the real bits of info were pulled out would be more ideal. Meh, I'll go back in this thread and see if I can find it.

mym6

05-02-07, 05:35 PM

Found the post, X10 module it is then.

spyder696969

05-02-07, 05:53 PM

...If you keep up it's fine...I'll go back in this thread and see if I can find it.
I hear you on the necessity to keep up. I got up the gumption to find it for you. Keep in mind that this was the second time I'd debated this issue at length, so it comes off as perhaps a bit snarky. Anyway, it starts back on post #6826 and goes on from there.

twisted_oak

05-02-07, 08:29 PM

Any chance of getting one of those X10 power things to respond to a harmony remote (659)?

mym6

05-02-07, 09:20 PM

Any chance of getting one of those X10 power things to respond to a harmony remote (659)?

You could try the following

http://www.wikihow.com/Use-X-10-Lamp-or-Appliance-Control-Module-with-an-IR-Remote

twisted_oak

05-02-07, 09:38 PM

Gee, thanks. That just might work. ;)

nobi125

05-03-07, 06:35 AM

This has been discussed a bunch of times, and you could do a search to see those discussions.

The short answer is that when the fan cools down the bulb, it cools it abnormally quickly. It's kind of like taking something hot and plunging it into cold water, though obviously not as dramatic as that.

I haven't seen any studies on the subject, so I'm not sure how you decide what's correct. However, if memory serves me correctly, one of the proponents of letting it cool off without the fan works for (or used to work for) InFocus. Someone else can chime in here if you know to whom I'm referring. My memory sucks.

-Dan

Why haven't they changed how it shuts down with a firmware update?

spyder696969

05-03-07, 10:02 AM

Why haven't they changed how it shuts down with a firmware update?
IF is done with the 4805 for the most part, and has been for some time. Besides, why bother with the update when the solution costs $10-$15?

gamemaster000

05-03-07, 03:47 PM

I know nothing about bulbs, but it seems that glass stress isn't what burns out bulbs prematurely; it would be the filament usage. When my bulb went, the glass didn't shatter, it just wouldn't start one day. The whole cooling thing seems like a non-issue to me.

But then again, their newer models don’t have a hard power switch (at least I haven’t noticed one on mine?), so maybe IF designed them to burn out bulbs faster! :eek: It’d be more money in their pocket, I guess. That’s just a conspiracy theory, of course!

spyder696969

05-03-07, 04:44 PM

I know nothing about bulbs, but it seems that glass stress isn't what burns out bulbs prematurely; it would be the filament usage...maybe IF designed them to burn out bulbs faster! :eek:
Correct on the glass part, however, apply the stress logic to the razor-thin srtip of metal that is the filament and you've got it. You couldn't be more correct on the second theory of design with no hard power switch.

WillyGib

05-03-07, 04:46 PM

I don't think it makes a difference how you shut down the 4805. I have over 2200 hrs and I always use the remote. Many 4805 users with over 2K hrs use the switch. Go figure.

spyder696969

05-03-07, 05:02 PM

2,000??? :eek:

I wish I still had that paltry sum. ;)

cavu

05-03-07, 05:09 PM

glass stress isn't what burns out bulbs prematurely; it would be the filament usage.There is no filament! :eek:

These are 'arc' lamps.

mym6

05-04-07, 09:11 AM

I'm already sending my PJ in for service with InFocus. Took out the lamp to inspect things and the fans were filthy dirty, to the point where there is dust hanging off of them. It's refurbished, but this is a little ridiculous.

twisted_oak

05-05-07, 02:01 PM

Already getting my unit back from Infocus. That was a week turn-around time. Hope they fixed everything.

kteague

05-06-07, 10:05 AM

Hello. I have owned an InfoFocus 4805 since December 2004, and yesterday, a diagonal obstruction suddenly appeared in the light path (on the left side of the projected image), obscuring about 10% of the image. Initially, I thought it might be the bulb, and I re-installed an older, still-working bulb that I had retired, only to discover that the obstruction was now covering about 70% of the image.

A quick Google search pointed to this forum and made mention of some sort of "wave guide" in the light path, which one user had experienced becoming dislodged after the glue holding it in place melted. Indeed, the obstruction appeared for me after powering the unit back up, and did not appear while using the projector, so this suggests that some sort of movement occurred during cooldown.

Any advice on the above? Thank you!

speed32219

05-06-07, 10:21 AM

kteague

05-06-07, 10:47 AM

dmcdayton

05-06-07, 10:50 AM

kteague

I moved to IN72 and am happy, very inexpensive upgrade and good lay over until the 1080 machines become affordable.

speed32219

05-06-07, 04:41 PM

Thanks speed32219,

Yes, this is absolutely what I am seeing. My 4805, despite considerable care, regular filter cleaning, and proper cooldown before shutoff, has experienced "light tube meltdown."

I am not up for attempting the repair myself, and I guess I will take this up with InFocus and determine how quickly they can repair the unit.

Maybe I will use this as an opportunity to upgrade, but I may also have the 4805 repaired and keep it as a backup.

What is the most popular upgrade path (new model) for someone like myself who has been very pleased with the 4805? Thanks.

Sorry for your misfortune. I am still in Love with my 4805 and really do not want to upgrade/sidegrade at this time. But that being said, if you can not repair the light tube yourself, then the charge from IF to repair it will far exceed the cost of a new IN72 which is the SP-4805 replacement. Best of luck to you, if mine ever starts to fail I will buy the necessary clamps, tools, etc. to try the repair. I just love the pic including the HD stuff. I don't think I could get a better picture (lumens, Black level, sharpness, CR and the built in fantatstic scaler) without some serious $$$. Long live the (mine especially) the 4805! :D