The 2nd Official Infocus 4805 Thread. [Text View] - Page 29

blarson52

05-26-07, 05:17 PM

A while back I had to find a replacement cooling fan for an Infocus 4805. Thank you all for the very helpful advice. I found a suitable replacement, then found that the power supply to the fan was bad - only providing 5 volts instead of 12. This is the larger of the 2 fans right behind the bulb.

I have finally gotten around to working on this again. I connected the fan to a 12 volt AC adapter and taped off the original wires inside the projector. This seems like it is going to work but I have one big problem.

I can't for the life of me decide which way to mount the fan. My recollection is that the fan drew air in from the front of the projector (across the bulb) and blew toward the back with the hot air coming out of the back of the projector. The problem is, all of the little clues, like marks on the fan from the screws and the way the wires want to route, tend to make me think the fan should blow out the front.

If anyone can tell me if you have warm air coming out the back of your 4805 or if it only blows out the front? It would be a life saver if I could find out.
Thanks!

adude

05-26-07, 05:47 PM

4805 intakes the air from back and exhaust in the front.

photogbs

05-26-07, 09:02 PM

I tried searching the forum but can't seem to find an answer. I have started to have a slight discoloration of the picture, along the edge on the bottom right of the projection. Is this a sign that the bulb is about to go? I have 2356 hours on it so far. I am just wondering if it is the lamp or something else

cavu

05-26-07, 09:05 PM

I tried searching the forum but can't seem to find an answer.Search this thread for "light tunnel". I am sorry the news couldn't be better :(

dagware

05-30-07, 03:51 PM

Search this thread for "light tunnel". I am sorry the news couldn't be better :(
There ought to be some dire music that plays whenever you read "light tunnel". Either that, or Frank Barone saying "Holy crap!".

-Dan

mdwags

05-30-07, 05:51 PM

My 4805 is coming up on warranty expiration date. I have not yet experienced any light tunnel/tube issues. However, i would hate to go just beyond the warranty and experience a problem.

Are there any preventative measures one can take to reduce the risk of a future light tube problem?

It seems the biggest issue with the repair is getting all of the sides aligned exactly. Well, right now, with the tunnel intact, all pieces are aligned. Can i overlay the assembly with some heat resistant epoxy or something like that? Anyone try this? Or, does anyone have a recommendation for a glue or epoxy that would be good for this application?

Thanks.

RELENTLESS76

06-01-07, 10:04 AM

spyder696969

06-01-07, 11:24 AM

Hi, I have both the 4805 and xbox 360. I recently purchased the monster component cables in order to go from 480p to 720 or 1080i. Is this possible? I can't get anything better than 480p? How do I get to 720p or 1080? Please let me know.
First off, take those insanely overpriced and overrated Monster cables back and get some from monoprice.com for probably about 25% of what you paid. (You can use the extra cash to buy a new 360 game and thank me later. :) )

Second, I'm not certain what it is that you're asking here. I had two different 360s hooked up to the 4805 (and now the IN72) and had no issue sending either a 720p or 1080i signal to them. The projector, of course, displays the images at its native resolution, despite whatever resolution you choose to send via the 360's settings menu.

Duane T

06-01-07, 12:32 PM

Relentless, did you change the video settings on the XBox? You have to go into the System(?) blade and make the change there. Its been a while since I hooked it up, but there was also a switch on the MS cable for HD/SD I think.

cavu

06-01-07, 12:38 PM

I recently purchased the monster component cables in order to go from 480p to 720 or 1080i. Is this possible?You have been conned! :eek: Try to return them and get your money back!!I can't get anything better than 480p? How do I get to 720p or 1080?There are a few basic facts that you must learn. Read the link in my sig. for a start.

Super(man)

06-01-07, 05:33 PM

When I turn my projector on the red light just blinks... It sounds like it is trying to start up, but doesn't...

The lamp is under 1000 hours. I reseated the lamp, but it didn't work.

Any idea's?

dagware

06-01-07, 05:37 PM

When I turn my projector on the red light just blinks... It sounds like it is trying to start up, but doesn't...

The lamp is under 1000 hours. I reseated the lamp, but it didn't work.

Any idea's?
Do you have your manual? It explains what the blinking lights mean. (I can't remember right now.) Also, I'll bet a quick search of this thread for "blinking" or "flashing" will give you the answer. (Ain't I helpful?)

-Dan

Super(man)

06-01-07, 05:42 PM

Do you have your manual? It explains what the blinking lights mean. (I can't remember right now.) Also, I'll bet a quick search of this thread for "blinking" or "flashing" will give you the answer. (Ain't I helpful?)

-Dan

Yes I have my manual...

It is doing the one blink, explanation is

The lamp won't strike after five (5) attempts. Check the lamp and lamp door installations for loose connections.

What should I do? I have reseated the bulb, how do I check to see if the bulb is burnt out? It just went out like 30 minutes ago, it was working and then all of a sudden the picture went off.

Unit sounds like its operating fine when I turn it on.

dagware

06-01-07, 07:06 PM

What should I do? I have reseated the bulb, how do I check to see if the bulb is burnt out? It just went out like 30 minutes ago, it was working and then all of a sudden the picture went off.
I'm not sure -- hopefully someone else will chime in.

The reason I mentioned the manual in the first place is because something like this happened to me a while back, and I posted a message and someone told me to check the manual, which for some reason I hadn't thought of. In any case, my particular case of blinking lights (don't remember which one it was) went away after I left the PJ off for a while, and it's never happened again (knock on wood).

Good luck.

-Dan

mym6

06-02-07, 01:46 PM

You have been conned! :eek: Try to return them and get your money back!!There are a few basic facts that you must learn. Read the link in my sig. for a start.

This would be true if the Xbox 360 wasn't capable of 720p and 1080p.

Gushy

06-02-07, 01:58 PM

The 4805 can display 720p and 1080i, but not 1080p. YOu don't need MONSTER CABLES to get these resolutions though.

I would return the monster cables and go buy some python cables off ebay or go to monoprice.com and look there; you can find comporable cables for half the price.

I did a shoot out with monster component cables vs python. The end result is that myself and my friends could not tell a side by side difference. If it makes one feel better to spend more money than be my guest.

Ja Phule

06-02-07, 05:07 PM

I remember getting 1080p to work on the 4805 via component with the 360.

spyder696969

06-02-07, 05:10 PM

I've gotten 1080p to work on both the 4805 and the IN72.*

*I never tried the overpriced Monster cables though. Maybe I could get 5400p with those! :rolleyes: ;)

twisted_oak

06-02-07, 06:32 PM

Well, the latest in my Infocus fiasco....

After sending my projector back in a second time to have the M1-DVI issue (cannot establish digital video from M1 port) repairing, I received a call from a guy telling me all repairs had been completed. He went through a list and said the specific issue had been fixed. I asked if a M1-DVI cable had been used during the repair. He gave a slight pause and said "yes." He gave me the Infocus part number for the cable they had used. They shipped the projector back to me.

Guess what. No go. No DVI love to three different devices in my home. Mind you 3 different vendors were used for third party M1-DVI cables. So, I ordered the supplied PN from the guy. $90 later, no video.

I called support AGAIN and stated the repairs had obviously not been performed or the M1-VGA cable was being used by the bench. I was offered a replacement projector. I have to send mine in first. No way, I offered a credit card for an advanced replacement.

In a few days I received the replacement projector. Viola, it works on all my third party cables and (obviously) the (waste of money) $90 Infocus DVI cable. I experience a momentary sigh of relief I mounted it on the ceiling. Well..... I was sitting there surfing the internet and my girlfriend happened by. "What is that whining noise?" OMG, in my momentary bliss I had not noticed a high pitched whining noise coming from the projector. It doesn't sound like a color wheel buzz saw. It sounds like a cheap fan. So, I fired up my old projector and did a comparison. The old one is way more quieter than the "Advanced" replacement. (Mind you I paid $428 which will be credited back)

After I called support again, repeating my whole experience, the support person said he was suprised I was so calm, I was transferred to level 2 support.
After a few minutes on hold, I spoke with someone obviously from the US. He apologized for the issues I was experiencing. He asked me what I would like to do. I said I am unsure, I want the problem resolved without having to be out of TV for the family. He just offered the same thing the level one guy offered. For me to send both projectors in and have the advance one repaired. I said if I am going to do that I want them to pay for shipping on both. He emailed me labels. While he was typing the information in, I asked don't people get upgraded or something when they have this many problems? He said, well your problem is not an obvious one. Obvious one? How more obvious could it be? I gave explicit details to all the support personnel on every call. I even made sure on the last repair I called back up and spoke with another rep and had him repeat the previous guy's notes to make sure he asked the bench to check with a DVI cable.

This has been a nightmare. I just wanted to view the best possible picture quality from my projector. Now I am stuck in this repeating loop. When I see other people get offered upgrades or getting quick resolutions it is rather frustrating. So, now I will hold on to my old projector for a couple of weeks while the other is repaired. Then ship it back. My girlfriend is thinking I am OCD. I just keep telling her that they need to make it right. The annoying whine of the replacement was unbearable when used in a silent room. God, I wish there were an Infocus rep around here like there used to be. This sucks!

Rant over (For now)

cavu

06-02-07, 09:02 PM

This would be true if the Xbox 360 wasn't capable of 720p and 1080p. The part you were supposed to absorb from the link I provided is the fact that a digital 480 display can not produce anything but a 480 image!! It doesn't matter what you feed it ... 480i/p, 576i/p, 720p, 1080i/p or anything else for that matter, the display is limited to 480 and will down-sample the input to do so. The fact that the 'Xnox 360' will do 720p or 1080p is IRRELEVANT! The second thing that we are all generally trying to 'splain is that Monster Cables are a rip-off. They will do absolutely nothing for you that the least expensive Monoprice cable won't do!

Super(man)

06-02-07, 11:03 PM

Best place to purcahse a bulb for a 4805?

twisted_oak

06-02-07, 11:14 PM

Not true, Monster Cables upconverts standard cable to HD. LOL

BlackHawk77

06-03-07, 02:59 AM

Does anyone have a used bulb that I could purchase? I had about 3200 hours on my bulb and it went out today. It actually popped and the glass broke. I would like a cheap test bulb to put in it to test the projector before I buy a brand new bulb. Thanks for the help!

Dan

transdog

06-03-07, 03:30 AM

Hi,
I've had the 4805 for about 18 mths and it's got 2500hrs on the clock.
The light tunnel failing issue started about seven weeks ago.

Unfortunately I was told by the sellers of the projector that I only had a one year warranty not the two years that seems to be standard in Nth America

I was aware, through my use of the forum, that the failure of the light tunnel was a possibility and there does'nt seem to be many options for replacement other than handing it over to a service centre.

I've been researching about it ever since, I can't buy a light tunnel anywhere or the coated glass to make it myself. ( Found it online in Germany, but a bit expensive, for 50mm x 50mm x 1.1 it works out at close to $72,000Au per Sq metre, plus postage, although you might get a discount for bulk) , the coated glass and the light tunnels are made by a major European company called Oerlikon, based in Lichtenstein with facilities in China the US and UK. They also make the colour wheels.
(Lichtenstein is a real country usually associated with tax havens)

When I got it apart I was really surprised at what a POS it was, aside from the glue failing, the mirroring was burned off the glass.
I could'nt even find it when I first took the machine apart, I was looking for some thing of substance, something that would stand out as a part that was so inherently important to the function of the projector that I could not possibly miss it, that it would be encased in some thing that would protect it and make sure that it would maintain it's integrity

With so many of them failing in such a short space of time the light tunnel and the arrangement to hold it, (an Infocus patented device so there should be no excuse) could not possibly be considered " fit for purpose", Any other electrical appliance manufacturer would have been forced to do a recall.

I paid $1800Aus for the unit, I would have been happy to pay for a new bulb at any time since I've owned it, bulbs blow, thats life, but for such a great bit of gear thats given me so much fun and satisfaction to to have to be junked, for the sake of a bit that could not possibly be worth more than a $1, that was heartbreaking.
So here is my DIY solution.

http://s185.photobucket.com/albums/x312/transdog/DIY%20Light%20Tunnel/

It's the disc out of a 3.5" hard drive.
I replaced the fans while it was apart, one 80mm fan and one 60mm fan, straight out of a computer , a little bit of modification to get them to fit properly, the originals are a bit slimmer than standard computer fans and the power connections need to be changed.
I used a Makita docking saw with fine teeth to cut the sections and a lot of care and patience is needed to make sure that the bits are properly clamped and that fingers are kept well clear, two of the bits are only 3mm wide, so its a slow carefull cut. It helps to put wax on the blade of the saw .

It's been running for a week now, five seperate sessions of at least 10 hrs each.
I suppose I'm trying to test to destruction but it has'nt missed a beat.
It's much quieter than previously, even when new, thanks to the new fans
(actually old fans out of a computer).
The picture is no less bright than it was. and in fact it is back on the same brightness and contrast settings that I first put it on with the "Get Gray" calibration disc well over a year ago.
The light/image seems to be slightly polarised and I tried to adjust it out using the "DVE" disc to adjust the colour but once again I ended up back at the original settings, 58 and 28.5.

The surface coating of the disc would partially account for the light quality difference as the original mirrors would have been letting light escape as the mirroring burnt off.

I dont know how long it will last and of course it is time to upgrade, but as an inveterate do it yourselfer I could'nt let the chance go past to at least have a go.

Regards
Gary.

spyder696969

06-03-07, 10:52 AM

http://s185.photobucket.com/albums/x312/transdog/DIY%20Light%20Tunnel/
Excellent post and nice work with the pics, Gary. Are you also going to tell us what you did to the color wheel? When I saw all of those pieces in the first image, I thought you were totally screwed.

Super(man)

06-03-07, 12:17 PM

I am getting the one red blink which says the lamp isn't striking... Can I assume that it is the lamp that blew? How can I check if it blew?

Is there anything else that it could possibly be? I believe I only had around 1,000 hours on it.

transdog

06-03-07, 08:03 PM

Spyder
Believe it or not the colour wheel was the easiest bit to fix, so easy in fact that I got a bit heavyhanded with it when putting it back and I actually broke two of the sections into bits , which I was able two glue back in just as easilly.
it's now an eight section colour wheel.

The glue used to hold them is just as unsuitable as the stuff on the light tunnel, I'm surprised I had'nt dislodged them previously when cleaning the colour wheel.
Glad you liked the post, sorry if I was a bit longwinded.
Regards
Gary

iwantaht

06-04-07, 01:13 AM

Does a X1/4800 bulb work in a 4805? I know Infocus sells different bulbs for each unit but they look similar except for the connections. Can I splice the 4800 bulb with the 4805 wires and make it work in a 4805?

cavu

06-04-07, 01:51 AM

Does a X1/4800 bulb work in a 4805?No.

dmcdayton

06-04-07, 07:05 AM

transdog,

well done! Using hard drive disk was genius. Sometimes when there's nothing to lose it can be a lot of fun seeing what you can do. I know the fan question came up many times in the first year, big fear was voiding your warranty. Guess you're past that huh? :)

scooterboy

06-05-07, 04:48 PM

I could'nt even find it when I first took the machine apart, I was looking for some thing of substance, something that would stand out as a part that was so inherently important to the function of the projector that I could not possibly miss it, that it would be encased in some thing that would protect it and make sure that it would maintain it's integrity.
Any chance you could describe exactly where you finally did find the thing? I can't see it in your pictures.

I just got the "yellow fuzzy line" myself the other day, and I'm thinking of attempting the repair.

Edit to add: Never mind - I found some pictures:
http://www.willswebdesign.com/sp4805/sp4805.htm

4805Owner

06-10-07, 06:48 PM

Hi all, I have 876 hours on my 4805, its out of warranty also. Starting last night I got a darkened upper left corner of my projected image, now its in the lower right corner of my image. I can still "see" the image but it is darker and maybe slightly discoloured.

I am hoping its not this light tunnel issue that people refer too, but I imagine it is, the images on 226 don't match what I am seeing. Its not on the side and a long line, its more like something is blocking the light path.

Is there detailed instructions somewhere with images for a noob showing how to find this light tunnel and determine if its a problem ?

Can you post a link for me ?

EDIT I should add that as I reassemble after cleaning lamp filter, and test image its still there however as you rotate the PJ the floater object moves around and partiall obstructus the image, so whatever it is, it seems to have fallen off and is floating around somewhere.

mrpergo

06-10-07, 08:02 PM

sounds like dust blobs.
here is one fix;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=556431

4805Owner

06-11-07, 08:17 AM

Yeah, its not circular at all though. But I follow those instructions anyway and took a look at that mirror, can't see anything on it.

Its more of a defined shape, looks man-made (straight lined).

4805Owner

06-11-07, 10:14 PM

I took some pictures of this object, and followed dust blobd removal , that didn't help. Also you can hear a slight noise, as you rotate the projector and the object move where it is blocking the light path. I opened the beast up, the color wheel is intact an neither mirror has anything on them (blew some compressed air on them anyway).

Any thoughts on where to go next ? I don't even know where to search for this light tunnel thing.

In the attachements you can see it in the lower right hand corner and as I rotate the PJ it rotates inside, very quickly, almost liker a small metal flake would react to a magnet.

EDIt you see light spill I have the thing taken apart, no focus ring etc no grills, also the "Searching for signal appears" that isn't what I am referring to, its the larger more diffuse object.

mrpergo

06-12-07, 06:32 AM

Umph :(
Don't know what the heck that is.
Maybe as time passes it will settle out of the way.
Someone might chime in that has seen this before.

vttom

06-12-07, 12:02 PM

Any thoughts on where to go next ? I don't even know where to search for this light tunnel thing.Didn't you see this, just a few posts back in this thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10693272&&#post10693272)?

4805Owner

06-12-07, 05:22 PM

Didn't you see this, just a few posts back in this thread?

Hi, thanks for the reply. Yes I read this entire thread (took awhile!) including that post. The pictures are worth a thousand words, one problem. It goes from the picture of a thousand pieces, searching for the light tunnel location, to a picture of the light tunnel disassembled. I'm missing "something" in between.

I don't know where inside the PJ it resides. I have the case / grills/ lens apart, I don't see any mirrors fitting that description.

In addition to that, my symptoms differ from everyone else's, that the second reason I posted.

EDIT Moderator ---> can you correct the link on page 1 to the original thread ? I can't search for or link to anything regarding cleaning of the color wheel, which I hope will help me find the light tunnel. Someone asked to move those posts from original thread here but that was denied, and now the link to the original thread is broken.

Also the links from JaPhule's FAQ are broken, and following the instructions for archive don't work either

EDIT (third time!), I found the color wheel section. I'd post a link but forum won't let me. I'll try that and report back.

chindopedigree

06-12-07, 08:39 PM

Hi,

I have a problem with my 4805 and was hoping somebody could help me out. I don't really know much about projectors and stuff so I'm hoping I posted this in the right place. I tried looking up things like burn-in but it doesn't seem to describe the problem I have. I've also been into the shop I bought the projector from and described it to them but they didn't seem to know what it is and asked me to bring it in. I'm just hoping I can find out what it is before going about getting it repaired which could cost me a lot of money.

Basically, I have a big brown 'burn-like' mark down the right-hand side of my screen. It was ignorable until last week when I turned my projector on and the mark had 'grown' significantly. The following links show photos of the mark:

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n291/chindopedigree/DSC00859.jpg
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n291/chindopedigree/DSC00860.jpg
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n291/chindopedigree/DSC00862.jpg

If anybody knows what the problem is and if it can be repaired I would greatly appreciate any help. Once again, I'm sorry if this is in the wrong place but I thought this would be the best thread to ask in.

Thanks

cavu

06-12-07, 09:15 PM

If anybody knows what the problem is and if it can be repaired I would greatly appreciate any help.Search this thread for "light tunnel". There is lots on the last couple of pages. I am sorry the news couldn't be better :(

utopia1956

06-13-07, 08:22 AM

I don't know where inside the PJ it resides. I have the case / grills/ lens apart, I don't see any mirrors fitting that description.

Perhaps some pics I found of the light tunnel repair on the X1 will help you. See the following post and the ones following it.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6744737#post6744737

ohio69

06-13-07, 04:12 PM

rgdw

06-14-07, 02:03 AM

hello all. I just recently noticed ( and now its all i see :mad: ) horizontal slow scrolling lines ( usually very faint red/pink ) shortly after startup. Im assuming its after the bulb ( with approx 600 hrs on it ) heats up.It doesnt matter if the source is dvd or hd rcvr.
im using component for the dvd and rcvr..running everything through a Harmon Kardon AVR325 amp. I think it must be the projector because its the same for each source and is something that was not there before...any suggestions? ive downloaded the latest firmware already and no change there either...thx, R

cavu

06-14-07, 02:22 AM

any suggestions?Sounds like a 'ground loop' or bad power supply filter capacitor.

Plug the projector into the same power outlet as the source equipment and see if it goes away; if yes, then it is a ground loop. If no, disconnect all inputs to the projectors and see if the same symptom appears on a menu or blank screen. If yes, there is a problem in the power supply of the projector; if no, the projector is OK.

rgdw

06-14-07, 02:37 AM

thx for the speedy Cavu.. will give it a try...currently its hooked up to an extension cord which is running through my drop ceiling onto a completely different outlet but i'll give your idea a try and see what happens...

twisted_oak

06-14-07, 12:40 PM

ohio69

06-14-07, 01:48 PM

Fiasco update.....

I received my warranty exchange unit back from repair. Guess what, it still has a high pitched whining noise. I called support and immediately asked for Level 2 support. He said I have to understand it may not be perceptible in a factory environment. I said I understood from a tech perspective, but wondered why that is my problem. Nonetheless he offered RMA of either my original projector for DVI issue (since the original was obviously a mainboard replacement ( if it was obvious why wasn't it replaced months ago?)) or send the warranty exchange back in for a power supply replacement. Although the previous level 2 guy promised me an upgrade if the issue was not resolved, I had to ask for an upgrade for my hassle. I was placed on hold and then offered an upgrade to a IN72. I also asked for shipping labels to cover shipping, which I was provided.

What a nightmare. He said he has never seen a projector(s) come back almost 5 times. Hmmm....

I will update when I receive the IN72 and let you know what condition it is in....

So its not just me! I am in the middle of Infocus support hell. I'm trying to get a resolution on my noise and light tube problem and the communication between me and about 6 different people thus far just aint happening. I cant understand what they are saying and apparently they dont understand me either, because I keep having to re explain everything at least twice. I just got off the phone with a "supervisor" who was harder to understand than anyone! He promised me my problems would be repaired under warranty and when I got the RMA via email it said I would agree to pay?!?!? UH NO, thats why I called and talked to half of freakin India so I could be sure there was no confusion!

Maybe buying a Infocus product wasnt such a good idea afterall?

twisted_oak

06-15-07, 12:24 AM

When you call just demand to speak with level 2 support. I have had no issues understanding what they are saying, but I understand sometimes people might. If you speak with Level 2 they will understand what a light tunnel is. I had to explain what a DVI cable was to Level 1 support before.

Very frustrating I agree.

DaleR1

06-16-07, 11:50 PM

twisted_oak

06-17-07, 02:26 PM

I had a green color shift(no color except green) for about 30 seconds during ghost rider last night. I have never had a problem with my projector before. about 700 hours. Any help would be appreciated. I checked disc on plasma tv, it seemed ok

I have had that issue. It definitely had something to do with my Nvidia 7800GTX drivers. It didn't happen until I updated to the newest driver. I believe the issue only affected my component input.

jikkme

06-17-07, 04:18 PM

I posted a complete tutorial with pictures for people having the light tube issue. It is located HERE (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10809353#post10809353)

Post #20

I hope it is helpful for people who may not even know where the light tube mirror assembly is (like me- before I completely and needlessly tore my projector all the way down).

ohio69

06-20-07, 04:44 PM

twisted_oak

06-20-07, 05:54 PM

just an update on my warranty service. Infocus received the 4805 yesterday morning and I received an email this afternoon saying its shipping out today! I hope they fixed something :) If it comes back fixed I'll have to give them an A+ on service. If not, well stay tuned.

Good luck. In my experience, when they ship that fast after a repair, they did essentially nothing. Hopefully, your experience will be different.

I have received my IN72. I am very satisfied with it's performance vs the 4805. The fan noise is a 1/3 of the 4805. The image is a bit brighter (looking for a ND Filter solution), but I will benefit during the daytime hours. It actually mounted perfectly to my cheapo universal mount. The throw distance is essentially the same, give or take a 1/2". Also, via DVI it is giving me an available resolution of 1280X720, but no 848X480 like the 4805 was. I assume the IN72 native resolution is the same as the 4805? Probably something I should ask in the IN72 specific thread however. The menu system has a great variety of tweaks and now I have an HDMI port for my Xbox360/PS3 when I get one. That would have been an issue on the 4805 since I would have to choose which item would get the DVI/VGA port.

The final step in the solution will be resolved when they refund my money for the "advance replacement" I shipped back. I will also need some sort of documentation to submit to my CityAdvantage extended warranty company to pass it to the new model/unit.

twisted_oak

06-21-07, 06:31 AM

Made some custom timings and have the IN72 pixel-mapped. Simply, gorgeous. For some reason, my 4805, via DVI, was unable to do anything above 854x480. The IN72 offers resolutions all the way up to 1080i. 1280x720 seems to be the uppermost for regular internet surfing (anything else is quite soft.)

Infocus, should be receiving my old unit back today....

cavu

06-21-07, 09:57 AM

my 4805, via DVI, was unable to do anything above 854x480. The IN72 offers resolutions all the way up to 1080i. 1280x720 seems to be the uppermost for regular internet surfing (anything else is quite soft.):confused: If you are going to pixel map to the 4805 or the IN72, 854x480 is the correct resolution. Anything else is counter-productive!

ohio69

06-21-07, 01:54 PM

twisted_oak

06-22-07, 06:30 AM

:confused: If you are going to pixel map to the 4805 or the IN72, 854x480 is the correct resolution. Anything else is counter-productive!

I am beginning to think that the 4805 I had, that was working via DVI, was actually faulty. I could never get it to display anything above 854x480 via DVI. No matter what I did (custom timings, etc.) I agree, pixel-mapped 4805 or IN72 the image given is awesome and anything more or less is degraded.

That was a typo when I put 848x480 for the 4805 in the previous post. It was displaying 854x480 via DVI pixel-mapped.

twisted_oak

06-22-07, 06:32 AM

received my 4805 today. Hooked it up and the light tunnel issue looks fixed. To early to tell about the noise as it was interrmittent. Still give kudos to InFocus for the quick service!
Now if I can get another year or so before I upgrade...:)

Glad to hear it. Not sure if they told you, but you now have an extension of 90 days for the issue(s) you have sent it back for. In case you warranty is expired. You overall warranty is not extended, but all the issues reported are extended out by 90 days after the (attempted) repair. ;)

gnolivos

06-22-07, 03:55 PM

Anyone using a Wilsonart Laminate DIY screen with the SP4805? Im wondering in a total DARK room, whether to use the Designer White color, or the Fashion Grey color. I'm dumb, so I forget whether the grey or the white is better in a DARK room. I would assume the WHITE is better s I need no help with the blacks....

twisted_oak

06-22-07, 04:04 PM

I thought gray boosted contrast and white decreased it. I am not sure the color is the main concern, it is gain that would be the concern here. I am sure we have some experts here. I personally run a Greywolf in a light controlled room, but have no comparison for you. I thought that grey was favored no matter what because of the increase in contrast no matter what projector. The blacker the blacks the better.

doublertee

07-01-07, 02:37 PM

Recently, I noticed my 4805 began to shutdown after about 5-10 mins of activity. I found that the 80mm fan is no longer spinning. Called INFOCUS and they said that repairs would be around $300. Are there any owners out there experiencing the same issue? What would be the best fix for someone in my predicament?

spyder696969

07-01-07, 04:23 PM

doublertee

07-01-07, 05:37 PM

How many hours on your bulb?

1200 hours or so

spyder696969

07-01-07, 05:54 PM

If I were at 1200 hours, I'd fix the unit...BUT...I wouldn't pay IF the $300 to fix it. You've got a lot of life still left on that bulb, otherwise, I'd recommend dumping the unit on eBay. For that same $300 for IF to repair it, you could easily upgrade to the IN72 (when available).

Now, the question is, how do you fix the fans yourself? To start, I'd recommend testing with a different fan of the same ratings and see if the problem lies within the fan itself or in the power supply. If it's simply the fan, then you're looking at only a few bucks for the fix. If it's the PS, then I'd get a parts unit for <$100 and replace the PS.

Or...you could go the complete extra mile and mod the bejeezus out the unit with some new-fangled fan contraption and post your results (with pics and tutorial, of course) for all to enjoy!* ;)

*There's a fan mod on the IN72 posted with some great photos right here on this thread to get you started.

doublertee

07-03-07, 05:49 PM

[QUOTE=spyder696969]If I were at 1200 hours, I'd fix the unit...BUT...I wouldn't pay IF the $300 to fix it. You've got a lot of life still left on that bulb, otherwise, I'd recommend dumping the unit on eBay. For that same $300 for IF to repair it, you could easily upgrade to the IN72 (when available).

Now, the question is, how do you fix the fans yourself? To start, I'd recommend testing with a different fan of the same ratings and see if the problem lies within the fan itself or in the power supply. If it's simply the fan, then you're looking at only a few bucks for the fix. If it's the PS, then I'd get a parts unit for <$100 and replace the PS.

So I head down to my local RadioShack and finally find a 2-pin fan. I connect the wires to the motherboard and the new fan does not seem to spin either. Is this a PS issue I'm dealing with here? The new fan was rated at 12V and .16a versus a 12V and .38a for the original. Does that make a difference? Thanks in advance spyder!!

spyder696969

07-04-07, 12:21 AM

...So I head down to my local RadioShack and finally find a 2-pin fan. I connect the wires to the motherboard and the new fan does not seem to spin either. Is this a PS issue I'm dealing with here? The new fan was rated at 12V and .16a versus a 12V and .38a for the original. Does that make a difference? Thanks in advance spyder!!
I'm sending you a PM on this. Check your inbox.

zductive

07-04-07, 12:25 AM

This is the point where you wire an external power supply to the fan.
Another $12 and your done!

doublertee

07-09-07, 10:28 AM

This is the point where you wire an external power supply to the fan.
Another $12 and your done!

Just got an external PS along with a new fan and everything seems to be running okay for now. Haven't run it for a long period but it's definitely going longer now than it had before. Thanks Z!!

kirtis_mcleskey

07-10-07, 08:25 PM

Is anyone running the 4805 with either of the new Hd dvd or blue ray Players

is there a noticeable difference in picture quality

also , just how improved is the sound going from standard dvd to hd

spyder696969

07-10-07, 09:10 PM

Is anyone running the 4805 with either of the new Hd dvd or blue ray Players

is there a noticeable difference in picture quality

also , just how improved is the sound going from standard dvd to hd
Expect the same results as those with the IN72. Take a look at the IN72 thread for more details.

Sammy123

07-11-07, 03:10 AM

Is anyone using the Kingwell KW-HD6900i upconverting DVD player with the SP4805? If so what are your impressions through component and DVI?

Thanks,
Sam

cavu

07-11-07, 03:22 AM

Is anyone using the Kingwell KW-HD6900i upconverting DVD player with the SP4805? :confused: Why would you bother?!

What are you upconverting from and to? The source is 480 and the display is 480.

mym6

07-11-07, 10:34 AM

Can't vouch for any HD-DVD playback on the 4805 but I did watch the all star game in HD last night. The resulting picture is fantastic despite the device not being HD simply because the incoming picture is better....than standard def. If HD-DVD content looks better on the 4805 than the same content on DVD then it probably has more to do with the mastering of the disc than anything else.

miatawnt2b

07-14-07, 08:12 AM

Great read. I am having the yellow band issues now for the second time on my X2. First time under warranty, this time, not so lucky. So I will be taking things apart and attempting repair.

I do have a question though. I see a lot of busted colour wheels here and wonder what causes this? Is there a way I can protect mine, or is a replacement easy enough to come by should anything happen?

I wondered if it was caused by bulb shatter as there seems to be no protection at all between bulb and wheel. Thinking that a thin piece of low iron glass between the two may protect the wheel, but then again it may cause heat issues.

Thoughts?

-J

miatawnt2b

07-14-07, 06:22 PM

OK,
so I realize after taking this thing apart that some of my questions were... well... dumb.

So I attempted to rebuild the light tunnel, but as some others have found, the tunnel was fairly severely burned, and much of the mirror coating was trashed. I attempted a rebuild anyhow, and things are actually worse than before, now with a yellow band at the top of the picture. I probably decreased the size of the tube when I re-glued things together. anyhow, I am going to try some method of building a new tunnel, possibly like the hard drive platter DIY. From the pics, the tunnel seems to be 30mm long and 4mm square inside dimension. Can anyone confirm this?

I thought I may try to make my tunnel .5mm larger inside diameter hoping this will prevent any discoloration from things not being perfectly square. I need to think about it some. Thoughts/comments always appreciated.

-J

transdog

07-15-07, 03:03 AM

miatawnt2b

07-15-07, 09:20 AM

Miatawnt2b

As near as I can recall the internal dimensions were 3mm x 4.2mm.
I cant think of any reason why you could not make it bigger except for the housing that it sits in and the clip that holds it in place. The clip is pretty flimsy and can easily be adjusted any way you want.
When I was going through the alternatives for a new tunnel, materials etc, I thought that maybe even a round tunnel might be an option but I couldnt find anything that I could polish or convert so the hard disc platter got a run.
The projector is still running and dare I say it, I think it might be better than before. I upgraded the graphics card drivers and that took care of the slight polarisation I thought I was experiencing.
Best of luck.
Gary.

Thanks Gary,
did you use any special techniques to ensure that the light pipe you constructed was perfectly square? I was hoping that the local HomeDepot may have a small square dowel close to the correct size. It does look from your pictures that your new tunnel is a bit larger than the original, but it might be a function of how you put things together.
-J

transdog

07-16-07, 02:09 AM

Hi Miatawnt2b
I just sanded a small bit of timber down to the right dimension.
It ended up bigger externally because of the aluminium tape I wound round it .
I thought this would be better than glue as it allows for a bit of thermal expansion.
I honestly dont think it matters a great deal about it being perfectly square, I think even a round tunnel would work at that stage of the light's passage through the machine , although I would be happy to be corrected on that if there is a technical reason why that would'nt work.
You've got me itchin to take the bugger apart again just for a looksee at how it's holding up in there.
I really should'nt be allowed out without my carer.
My fingers are starting to twitch.
Regards
Gary

PS
Just found this ,worth a look at post# 2245

miatawnt2b

07-16-07, 04:40 AM

Good find on post 2245. That's the whole problem with these threads... they get so long that it's difficult to find information unless you've kept up for the thread's entire life.

Anyhow, I was at the hardware store yesterday and purchased some right angle aluminum stock for about $3. The aluminum is 1/16" thick (1.5875 mm) With this, I should be able to make the pipe from two pieces instead of four. My plan is to polish the inside of the aluminum stock to a mirror finish, trim to the proper dimensions, and glue it together.

Some thoughts about the HD platter idea... I have a few drives in my office that have been taken apart and sitting on my shelf to expose the platters. Granted they have been apart for several (fife or so) years, but I have noticed that the platters are starting to dull. I am guessing that this is because the coating is probably a ferrite material due to the fact that is has to be magnetic. This allows the exposed platter to essentially rust/tarnish. I am not sure if a newer drive platter would have this problem or not, but it was something that I had thought about.

-J

utopia1956

07-16-07, 09:58 AM

This allows the exposed platter to essentially rust/tarnish. I am not sure if a newer drive platter would have this problem or not, but it was something that I had thought about.

-J
Perhaps you could coat it with clear polyurethane or fingernail polish. It may even help magnify the light going through, more like a mirror. Just a thought. Good luck with the experiment.

miatawnt2b

07-16-07, 10:12 AM

Perhaps you could coat it with clear polyurethane or fingernail polish. It may even help magnify the light going through, more like a mirror. Just a thought. Good luck with the experiment.

I'm not sure about the clearcoat. The reason they are built from front surface mirror is because you tend to get light refraction (prizm effect) if the light passes through a clear coating before hitting the mirror. I did however think that a coat of good automotive wax like plain carnauba may be a thin enough surface layer that refraction would be minimal and allow the platter to be somewhat protected.

-J

TheRealEddie

07-17-07, 02:05 PM

This is the point where you wire an external power supply to the fan.
Another $12 and your done!

This is exactly what I did and so far so good.

About 2 months ago my bulb with 2+ years on it went and thought nothing of it. I bought a new bulb and while testing the unit I found that my 80mm fan no longer was working. I tested several different fans and found that the power supply to the fan coming off an internal board was not working...so a trip to radioshack for a wall wart plug, a couple snips here and there, and viola! I just use the external power to keep my fan spinning.

About 200 hours later on the new bulb and no problems so far...

miatawnt2b

07-17-07, 02:34 PM

This is exactly what I did and so far so good.

About 2 months ago my bulb with 2+ years on it went and thought nothing of it. I bought a new bulb and while testing the unit I found that my 80mm fan no longer was working. I tested several different fans and found that the power supply to the fan coming off an internal board was not working...so a trip to radioshack for a wall wart plug, a couple snips here and there, and viola! I just use the external power to keep my fan spinning.

About 200 hours later on the new bulb and no problems so far...

interesting... I will need to check mine.

I really hate testing when the bulb is installed. All of that on/off bulb restrike is no good for a $300 bulb. Is there a way to test the fans and such without the bulb?

-J

transdog

07-18-07, 06:41 AM

True to form I couldn't keep my hands off it,
the DIY LightTunnel is still in perfect condition no burn marks or distortion.
Unfortunately I decided to make a better job of routing the ribbon cable to the colour wheel and that meant stripping the three separate boards and fans out again and the little bugger started doing a two step when it was all back together.
It wouldn't go into a sustained spin just sat there wobbling backwards and forwards. I couldn't trace the fault , after about ten hours some sort of madness descended on me . I decided to investigate how little brushless motors work.
(It was late and I was tired).You know what comes next.
I ordered what I think maybe the last legitimately imported IN72 this morning, it was a return and has been sitting in the only Australian supplier's warehouse for quite awhile, they initially thought it was a stock code error.
The poor old 4805 will go into a box till I find another colour wheel and resurrect it for my kids.
I'll try to keep my hands to myself , at least till the 72's warranty gives out.
Gary

miatawnt2b

07-18-07, 08:00 AM

miatawnt2b

07-23-07, 01:44 PM

OK, well my first attempt was a dismal failure. I was able to get the angle aluminum polished to a nice mirror finish after about an hour of wet sanding and buffing with mother's aluminum polish. Then I needed to figure out how to make the cuts. I thought that I could run the piece through the router table, but the bit I had was not for cutting metal and ended up chattering the piece to death. I guess I should have cut it before I polished. I'll do that next time.

The problem is that I don't have the proper tools to make the cut. I am very picky when it comes to getting these things perfect.

I'll update when I get a chance for try #2.

-J

psennett

07-23-07, 02:43 PM

My original (refurb from Woot) 4805 started the loud buzzsaw noise at about 2,000 hours. Of course, long out of warranty, even the extended one I bought from Woot.

As I had already invested in a new spare bulb, I'm sort of stuck with the 4805. So I purchased one off eBay, from a reputable chap. It was AS-IS but came with a blown bulb. Since I had one with 2K hours and a brand new one, no problem, right?

Well, this PJ is very dim, even with the new bulb. I mean much dimmer than my old one. Low Power, High Power, moxnix. It literally can only be seen in total darkness, as even dim ambient light washes out the picture.

Not at all like my original 4805. I'd say bad (new) bulb is a possibility, but the 2K hour bulb shows the same. My only other comment is the replacement PJ came from a smoker's home. I can't imagine there's that much cigarette smoke on the lens, but I can clean it.

Any suggestions?

mym6

07-23-07, 02:52 PM

psennett, take the color wheel from the dim projector and put it in the noisy one. Be sure to clean it *carefully*

This site could be of use to you.

http://www.willswebdesign.com/sp4805/sp4805.htm

miatawnt2b

07-23-07, 02:55 PM

psennett

07-23-07, 02:58 PM

psennett

07-23-07, 03:00 PM

Thanks for the link. Now I'm really nervous!

mym6

07-23-07, 03:01 PM

I looked at the colorwheel, and it was not visibly dirty. I had cleaned the wheel in my old PJ, so I knew what I was looking at.

I guess I'll consider swapping the wheels out. Anybody got instructions or experience with that. I'm as big a tinkerer as the next guy/gal, but this one sounds FUN!

Click the link I provided, based on those pics, you should be able to swap the color wheel. It's a "part" so it's simply plugged into the main board. I'm sure a couple of screws hold it down getting to it will take much longer than anything else.

psennett

07-23-07, 03:11 PM

In the immortal words of Flounder, "this is going to be GRRREAT!"

psennett

07-24-07, 11:00 AM

OK, I've done some real daunting things in my time, but opening up a projector (actually two projectors) has to rank right up there.

I placed my original (complete with screaming banshee colorwheel) on a nice soft (but fuzz-free) blanket on the table, took a deep breath, and opened it up. After snapping one of the front grill tabs off (because I didn't follow the "cleaning the dust blob" opening directions), I had it open. OK, a whole colony of dust bunnies lived inside, but overall not too bad.

218 screws later (OK, I exaggerate - maybe 30), I've got it stripped down to just the carcass. Why, you ask? Because the ribbon cable for the colorwheel plugs in right below one of the subframe assemblies, so you (unless you have some nylon hemostats that curve 45* upward) can't easily see it. And even if you can see it, you can't plug it back in. Without removing the subframe. Which means removing the two boards that are above it. Which means basically stripping the beast down to the plastic.

The bad news. The first time I plugged in the colorwheel ribbon cable, I put it backwards. I knew that because, after I had reassembled everything, the color wheel ran backwards and only for 2 seconds at a time. About the only detail I had noticed before I disassembled is the direction the wheel ran.

The good news. After I put it all back together, it runs and actually lights up. It gave me a chance to carefully clean all dust bunnies out, including around the optics (finally using the "dust blob" directions).

And yes, I took some pictures, which I intend to put together in some sort of format should you be as half-baked as I and want to try this.

-----------------

While I have it all open, I'm thinking of replacing the fans with Vantec Stealth fans, which run much quieter. Any thoughts on this?

miatawnt2b

07-24-07, 11:16 AM

psennett

07-24-07, 11:20 AM

EXCELLENT!!!
I've noticed that it's easy to have the colorwheel cables hit the smaller fan. just make sure you run them clear of the fan. Just a little tip.

Now you can experiment with that old colorwheel... maybe a drop of bearing oil.
-J
You REALLY want my head to explode, don't you?

Oh, and is the EXCELLENT!!! in response to my fan swapping idea, or just the whole excellent adventure?

miatawnt2b

07-24-07, 11:28 AM

You REALLY want my head to explode, don't you?

Oh, and is the EXCELLENT!!! in response to my fan swapping idea, or just the whole excellent adventure?

The whole experience for sure!!!

spyder696969

07-24-07, 11:52 AM

While I have it all open, I'm thinking of replacing the fans with Vantec Stealth fans, which run much quieter. Any thoughts on this?
I say go for it. While you're at it, paint the casing jet-black as well. I saw a black one once and it looked fantastic. While it's gutted, might as well do everything all at once, so see if you can shore up the light tunnel too. Good luck.

miatawnt2b

07-24-07, 11:55 AM

I really wish there was a cheap source for these tunnels. I wonder if a glass shop can cut front surface mirror that small.

-J

psennett

07-24-07, 12:02 PM

I realize attachments are verboten, but describing this won't do. This piece fell off when I was disassembling my original PJ. Oh great, where did that come from. No bother, I'll just pay closer attention to the second PJ when I take it apart and remove the good color wheel.

Oops, the second PJ had no such part.

It was in the area of the colorwheel / optics shroud. Any ideas, is it important or essential? Dimensions are about 15mm long, and 10mm wide.

mym6

07-24-07, 04:22 PM

Is it used for the security cable attachment?

psennett

07-24-07, 07:35 PM

OK, my daylong adventure with tearing the guts out of a 4805 is over. I replaced the larger fan (60mm, for those keeping score) with a "stealth" low noise fan. I'm not sure about the CFM rating vs the stock fan, but it sure as heck is quieter. Lots of hot air still comes out the front.

The big difference is taking it out of the Low Power mode. The noise increases, but nowhere even close to the old fan noise. Yay, I can finally run it on hi mode and still be able to hear the movie!

And now I've got one whole carcass worth of spare parts for future problems (less a color wheel motor). Even the color wheel is good! All the optics look pretty good.

Parts, anyone?

dagware

07-25-07, 03:06 PM

Do you have a URL for the fan you used? (I don't need to know now, but surely someone will want to know.)

-Dan

TheRealEddie

07-26-07, 11:33 AM

adude

07-26-07, 12:13 PM

Hi everyone,

I know this must have been asked before but searching the forum I couldnt find a definitive answer. Will a HDMI to M1 cable be sufficient to connect my PS3 directly to my 4805? I see people using DVI links in between and I wasnt sure why. The cables I am looking at buying are HDMI to M1-D(P&D) at monoprice:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10238&cs_id=1023802&p_id=2699&seq=1&format=2&style=

thanks!
eddie
Yes, that cable will work.
But I would suggest to use a HDMI-HDMI cable and M1-D to HDMI adapter Link (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041906&p_id=2689&seq=1&format=2&style=) It will allow you to use the same HDMI cable when you upgrade to a new PJ.

psennett

07-26-07, 11:29 PM

Do you have a URL for the fan you used? (I don't need to know now, but surely someone will want to know.)

-Dan
Well, at this point it doesn't matter because the "stealth" replacements are apparently insufficient for the task. I used a Vantec Stealth SF8025L, rated at 27 CFM / 1800 RPM / 18.9 dBA caused a hi-temp shutdown, even without the front and rear housings installed (the front housing particularly causes a significant obstacle to airflow because of the light baffling). A generic 31.50 CFM / 2700 RPM / 33 dBA fan also caused a shutdown. And reinstalling the original Nidec D08G-12TS4 fan (unknown ratings except for 0.38 A) also causes a shutdown.

Disappointed. All this for a colorwheel. I even cleaned out all the funk, and I still get this.

I wonder if that butterfly thingie I posted a picture of was some sort of heat sink. If even the original fan causes an overtemp shutdown, I'll listen to any reasonable suggestion.

Otherwise, I figure I'll go for something like THIS hi-flow, temp-sensing (http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=586530&CatId=801) fan, which can run as high as 3400 RPM and 41.6 CFM. I think the Vantec Tornado is overkill, and it makes as much noise as my lawnmower.

spyder696969

07-27-07, 12:30 AM

I used a Vantec Stealth SF8025L, rated at 27 CFM / 1800 RPM / 18.9 dBA caused a hi-temp shutdown...
:eek: No wonder! :eek:

psennett

07-28-07, 10:38 AM

Well, three fans and about ten put-it-together-CR@P-take-it-apart cycles later, it finally works.

The fan I ended up with was this Ultra Thermo-Control (http://ultraproducts.com/product_details.php?cPath=14&pPath=74&productID=74). It has higher output than the original, and just about the same noise level. It has a temperature sensor built-in so it can throttle down automatically, which it does only during shutdown (when the lamp goes out, the fan goes into the low speed mode, and I can hear it slowing down incrementally as the ambient air cools.

My tips, for people contemplating disassembly and fan tinkering:

Take copious notes as you disassemble. There are about five different screw sizes, including two that are gold-colored and slightly different sizes. As I can't locate a schematic, I don't know of any other way.
It goes without saying - don't be in a hurry. There are really not a lot of shortcuts, and some of these components are very fragile and spare parts are difficult to obtain.
Make sure your "power save" is turned off. During one cycle, my PJ shut off while I was testing, but it wasn't a "red blinking" shutdown, it was a green-blinking shutdown. Then I realized it had shut itself off because it was bored waiting for some input.
The only real shortcut I found is to put in-line plugs in the fan power feed lines, if you are going to replace and experiement with fans. The fans plug in under a subframe assembly which, to remove, takes the removal of a dozen screws and two boards above it. After three or four times through that, I decided to put little plugs inline so I could take the fan frame/assembly out without removing all those boards to unplug them. I just used the little sensor-type plugs that come on some of the fan power cords, but you could use the regular size power plugs as long as you have both the M and F sides.

I will eventually get around to putting together some of these pictures in an organized fashion and posting them.

UPDATE: Here is the link to the pictures: Disembowelment (http://picasaweb.google.com/psennett/Infocus4805BeingDisemboweled)

juser

07-28-07, 10:28 PM

my 4805 was having trouble starting, the fan would kick in at high speed and the projector would have to be power cycled to get it to start normally.

Now the fan only kicks in on high and there is no image. The bulb has about 1500 hours, so it could be shot, but it physically looks fine.

Searching in this forum is frustrating, any help would be appreciated.

spyder696969

07-29-07, 01:43 AM

The fan I ended up with was this Ultra Thermo-Control (http://ultraproducts.com/product_details.php?cPath=14&pPath=74&productID=74).
Air Flow: 23.8 - 41.6 CFM

Speed: 1950 - 3400 RPM

MUCH better! :)

transdog

07-29-07, 08:08 PM

Well done Patrick.
The pictures on the link are terrific, and your advice on the fans, the procedure to fit and test new ones, is invaluable.
The most valuable piece of advice though ,well in my case, I learned through bitter experience, is the orientation of the colour wheel ribbon cable.
I made an assumption that it could not matter which way the ribbon went back in ,nearly ten hours of trying to faultfind why the wheel would only wobble a little bit, tired and frustrated, getting nowhere , I got careless. I ended up destroying the bloody thing.
It was only when I looked at your post I realised my mistaken assumption about the ribbon cable.
It was an expensive mistake as I can't source a new colour wheel anywhere.Even used 4805's are as rare as" Hens Teeth" here in Oz
I ended up buying an IN 72 and I don't believe that it is much better than my modified 4805.
The modded 4805 was quieter and certainly as bright as the new 72.
Thanks for the posts and the links, they are valuable contributions to the vast amount of knowledge her in this thread.

If only you had posted two weeks ago. LOL!

I'll resurrect the 4805 for the kids when I find a colour wheel, I've got a friend going to Singapore soon he says he'll have a look around for me as Infocus has a major centre there ,so I believe. ( Not so sure about my beliefs anymore )
Thanks again.

Gary

DenM3

07-30-07, 10:18 AM

dewdrop

07-30-07, 10:45 AM

I read that the Infocus SP4805 can support 720p over HDMI. How do I ensure that the Pioneer AV79i outputs to 720p mode?

dagware

07-30-07, 12:57 PM

I read that the Infocus SP4805 can support 720p over HDMI. How do I ensure that the Pioneer AV79i outputs to 720p mode?
If you're talking about standard DVD playback, then you probably want to have it *not* upscale if possible, because the 4805 does a great job of upscaling. But other than that, the 4805 supports all sorts of inputs -- 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i, so I'm sure the Pioneer will output *something* that the 4805 can handle.

Just to clear one thing up -- the 4805 uses DVI not HDMI. You can, of course, get an adapter to convert HDMI to DVI for the projector (I use one on my PS3). Just be aware that you might need one.

-Dan

juser

07-30-07, 10:51 PM

speed32219

07-30-07, 11:52 PM

I have a Bravo D2 connected via DVI to my 4805. The D2 acts a bit funky now and then and I have to reset my outputs. This drives my wife crazy (and me too).

With all the new hdmi players out there now, has anyone had any sucess with a DVI hookup to a mainstream DVD player?

The last two players I tried about two years ago (a Toshiba and a Samsung) had some HDCP issues and my screen would go blank.

Any reccomendations? My componnet connection is already being used by my Fios.

Thanks for any advice.

I've never had a problem using hdmi or dvi from an output source to the M1 port on the SP4805. (Except for Comcast HD-PVR 6412 that had a problem with an hdcp issue which was resolved by Motorolla and Comcast, it was there problem)

I currently have a yammy HTR 5990 that I run hdmi to DVI and then DVI to a M1 adapter. (You could also just buy an hdmi to M1 cable) I route all my source material (HDMI, Component, Svideo, etc) to my yammy AVR and then output hdmi to M1 at the SP4805. I have disabled all inputs but the digital on the 4805 and set the ouputs of All my sources to 1080i including the Conmcast HD-PVR STB. I also have DVI to hdmi into the AVR (Bravo D1 pixel mapped) with no problems and an exceptional image. It would bring tears of joy to the 720 boys. :D

I Luv my 4805, what an image for the $$.

dewdrop

07-31-07, 01:47 AM

If you're talking about standard DVD playback, then you probably want to have it *not* upscale if possible, because the 4805 does a great job of upscaling. But other than that, the 4805 supports all sorts of inputs -- 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i, so I'm sure the Pioneer will output *something* that the 4805 can handle.

Just to clear one thing up -- the 4805 uses DVI not HDMI. You can, of course, get an adapter to convert HDMI to DVI for the projector (I use one on my PS3). Just be aware that you might need one.

-Dan
Thanks! You are right: it is the DVI port for the 4805 and the HDMI for the Pioneer. :-) My bad.

How do I tell what is the current scaling mode that the 4805 is using, i.e. 480p, 720p etc?

Luis Gabriel Gerena

07-31-07, 03:00 AM

DenM3

08-02-07, 09:09 AM

I've never had a problem using hdmi or dvi from an output source to the M1 port on the SP4805. (Except for Comcast HD-PVR 6412 that had a problem with an hdcp issue which was resolved by Motorolla and Comcast, it was there problem)

I currently have a yammy HTR 5990 that I run hdmi to DVI and then DVI to a M1 adapter. (You could also just buy an hdmi to M1 cable) I route all my source material (HDMI, Component, Svideo, etc) to my yammy AVR and then output hdmi to M1 at the SP4805. I have disabled all inputs but the digital on the 4805 and set the ouputs of All my sources to 1080i including the Conmcast HD-PVR STB. I also have DVI to hdmi into the AVR (Bravo D1 pixel mapped) with no problems and an exceptional image. It would bring tears of joy to the 720 boys. :D

I Luv my 4805, what an image for the $$.

Where did everyone go on this board? We used to be a bunch of chatty Cathys!

No one else has a mainstream DVD player hooked up direct to 4805 via DVI?

Is that crickets I hear?........

Seriously, I would appreciate any feedback. Thanks guys.

vttom

08-02-07, 09:32 AM

With all the new hdmi players out there now, has anyone had any sucess with a DVI hookup to a mainstream DVD player?Do you consider the Oppo 971 mainstream? It used to connect directly to my 4805 through a 25ft. DVI-D cable and a DVI-D -> M1/DA adapter. However, about a year ago I introduced an 2:1 HDMI switcher, so now it goes through a short DVI->HDMI cable into the switcher, then out of the switcher into an HDMI -> DVI adapter, and then into the same DVI-D cable+adapter as before.

It's worked without a hitch with both connection types.

Incidentally, the other source into the HDMI switcher is the DishNetwork ViP622. That, too, works with the 4805 without a hitch.

The switcher is a Monoprice-brand 2:1 HDMI switcher with "equalization", although I think the exact model I have has been discontinued and superceded by something with more inputs.

Not sure how HDCP factors into the equation, if at all.

spyder696969

08-02-07, 10:51 AM

Where did everyone go on this board?

No one else has a mainstream DVD player hooked up direct to 4805 via DVI?
Many moved over to the IN72 thread, which isn't that active currently either, for some reason. :confused:

Once you go Bravo, you never go back. :)

DenM3

08-03-07, 11:08 AM

Do you consider the Oppo 971 mainstream? It used to connect directly to my 4805 through a 25ft. DVI-D cable and a DVI-D -> M1/DA adapter. However, about a year ago I introduced an 2:1 HDMI switcher, so now it goes through a short DVI->HDMI cable into the switcher, then out of the switcher into an HDMI -> DVI adapter, and then into the same DVI-D cable+adapter as before.

It's worked without a hitch with both connection types.

Incidentally, the other source into the HDMI switcher is the DishNetwork ViP622. That, too, works with the 4805 without a hitch.

The switcher is a Monoprice-brand 2:1 HDMI switcher with "equalization", although I think the exact model I have has been discontinued and superceded by something with more inputs.

Not sure how HDCP factors into the equation, if at all.

-------------------------------

No. No one knows oppo but the AVS crowd. I'm talking samsung or jvc style. I saw a new phillips at costco with hdmi for $69 and it has a hdmi cord.

My Bravo really sucks. it is so quirky, it just adds to the complexity of all the remotes, power switches etc. It has even been to vizio for service.

I went through three players before I got the D2. If you don't think there are HDCP issues, try hooking up a dvi direct connect to a 2 year old toshiba hdmi player. Here is what your get---dvd start screen.....loading........then Blue screen with audio! Pretend you are blind and it is great!

tecuthre

08-06-07, 01:59 AM

saw the DIY light tunnel fixes and currently have a 4805 with the same issues. I was wondering if a section of fiber optic cable would suffice as a makeshift light tunnel. I found a few websites that offer cable with varying diameters, but I am incredibly weary of removing the old tunnel and having it turn to dust in my hands. Just a thought.

silbi

08-06-07, 02:22 AM

got an old stock 4805 for cheap. I presume it's a new unit but the fan noise is unbearable to me...is this normal? Good video quality tough.

any good links on tips to reduce this noise?? i place it on a coffee table and sit behind it...can go further from it coz of the small room.

any links better for any cheap hush box building etc would be good. Try to do some search here but go lost in the pages...

thx guys!

MaximAvs

08-06-07, 04:37 PM

spyder696969

08-06-07, 04:47 PM

I found a few websites that offer cable with varying diameters....
Links for better reference?

spyder696969

08-06-07, 04:54 PM

got an old stock 4805 for cheap. I presume it's a new unit but the fan noise is unbearable to me...is this normal?!
Yes. Low-power mode was always nearly silent for me, though others complain as well. I suppose it's partially because we focus more on the viewing/audio materials than intently listening for the pj' fan.

Our 4805 used to sit directly 5' above our heads, btw.

spyder696969

08-06-07, 05:00 PM

I'd really like ot be able to shut my 4805 off and on with the remote only without having to worry about the fans running.

From post 4755:

This is pretty similar to what I use to shut off my 4805. Cost me $7 last year on sale. Love the remote.

http://images.lowes.com/product/078693/078693225550.jpg

MaximAvs

08-06-07, 05:18 PM

spyder...

Thanks for the info!! My only concern with that one is that my universal remote would have to be pointed at that box in order for it to shut it off.

vttom

08-06-07, 07:31 PM

From post 4755:How 'bout using the switched AC outlet on the back of your receiver? Does anyone use those for anything? I've been considering using it to switch on/off my powered sub-woofer, but I'm not sure if it's rated to handle that much current.

spyder696969

08-06-07, 08:18 PM

spyder...

Thanks for the info!! My only concern with that one is that my universal remote would have to be pointed at that box in order for it to shut it off.
The original remote does have to be pointed somewhere in the general direction of the switch, so...

spyder696969

08-06-07, 08:20 PM

How 'bout using the switched AC outlet on the back of your receiver? Does anyone use those for anything? I've been considering using it to switch on/off my powered sub-woofer, but I'm not sure if it's rated to handle that much current.
Hmmmm. Good idea! My pj is nowhere near my receiver, so that's not an option in that regard. I DO use it to power on/off my sub though, so you should be fine on that matter.

tecuthre

08-07-07, 12:06 AM

DeerHunter

08-07-07, 12:14 AM

Ok, I've been away awhile, and just enjoying my 4805. But I'm starting to wonder if they (Infocus) ever resolved the fan issue. When you shut of the PJ from the remote, it will cool down, and then you'll hear the fan speed way down, but continue to run. You have to physically shut the PJ off to stop the fans.
Did they ever resolve this isse with firmware, or have you dudes come up with a hack?! I'd really like ot be able to shut my 4805 off and on with the remote only without having to worry about the fans running.

Thanks guys!!

I don't believe there was ever a firmware fix for the issue...at least not that I'm aware of. Don't expect one either. The 4805 is a dinosaur that is being fazed away.

If you really need to turn the unit off via remote...check out X10.com they have some remote switches fairly cheap.

MaximAvs

08-07-07, 12:55 PM

Thanks DeerHunter!!

Redbird

08-07-07, 07:58 PM

After keeping up the 4805 threads from day 1, I *finally* have an HD source with HDMI out to feed the projector. My 4805 is currently an extremely difficult position to get at to answer this myself and I'm sure there are others who know the answer already.

I have an HDMI cable and I have an HDMI to DVI adapter. Is this all I need? I'm thinking no because I thought I actually need a M1-DA adapter. Looking at the manual, I'm still not sure. Can anyone answer this before I start taking things apart to plug in a new feed?

Thanks!

adude

08-07-07, 08:00 PM

you need M1DA adapter. 4805 has no other DVI/HDMI compatible input.

Redbird

08-07-07, 08:07 PM

you need M1DA adapter. 4805 has no other DVI/HDMI compatible input.

Thanks - that was quick enough that I didn't have time to delete my post when I found a HDMI-to-M1D cable for sale marketed as "an adapter cable for InFocus Projectors." Putting in an order now.

miatawnt2b

08-08-07, 07:50 AM

here is one of the optical fibers i have found. the core diameter ranges from 3mm to almost 19 mm. lumenyte is the website. can't post a url til i post 5 times

STA-FLEX® “SEL” END LIGHT OPTICAL FIBER

is the fiber i was looking at

This is a good idea, though the temperature stability of this fiber is only 194* F. I'm betting the light path gets quite a bit hotter than this. I'll bet though that a glass fiber pipe would indeed work.

-J

jjsaustin

08-08-07, 08:55 AM

I have Bravo D1 I am willing to sell with completed cap mod. As most of you may know, these players are impossible to get anymore. Most people are not educated on this player and it's capabilities, but people in this forum. There is a whole thread dedicated to this DVD player mated with the 4805 thanks to cavu.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=660701&page=1&pp=30&highlight=bravo+d1

If any one is interested or has a friend that is interested, PM me.

pgans

08-08-07, 11:27 AM

tecuthre

08-08-07, 02:32 PM

yeah, i was thinking that the temperature might be too hot. if i can find some glass fiber i am definitely going to try this out

tecuthre

08-08-07, 02:49 PM

i have found a few sites offering fiber that withstands heat up to 1300* F. I believe this should suffice. does anyone know what are the dimensions of the light tunnel in the 4805? Would a rod which is slightly larger in diameter than the original light tunnel cause any problems?

miatawnt2b

08-08-07, 02:59 PM

i think the light tunnel is just under 4mm x 3mm inside dimensions, though I would imagine it is a 4x3 ratio regardless as it is a native 4x3 projector. I think Pythagoras would probably determine that you would need at least a fiber with the diameter equal to the hypotenuse of the stock light pipe. You would also need to figure out exactly how to center and square the fiber in the stock location. This will probably require modifying/grinding where the light pipe sits.

-J

vttom

08-08-07, 03:15 PM

as it is a native 4x3 projectorCorrection. The SP4805 is a native 16:9 projector.

miatawnt2b

08-08-07, 03:17 PM

Correction. The SP4805 is a native 16:9 projector.

sorry about that... I was not aware of the 4805's specs. I have the X2 which is a 4x3. Oh well, there goes my theory... though it still might be a valid one. I can see infocus cheapening by reusing parts.

-J

bilkocrew

08-10-07, 11:37 AM

Any thoughts on whats wrong with my 4805?
When I switch on the power, There's a loud screetching sound, (As if something is catching on something)I think it may be the fan. I then change to high power mode and the noise stops. I watch for 15 minutes, then change back to low power, and everything seems to be back to normal.
Is it likely that the fan is on its way out? and/or could it be the colour wheel?
Your expert advise is appreciated.

spyder696969

08-10-07, 12:18 PM

/or could it be the colour wheel?
Color wheel, without a doubt. You can try a thorough cleaning and running the PJ in high power mode for (up to) 2 hours as simple, no-cost solutions.

Luis Gabriel Gerena

08-10-07, 12:54 PM

Mine did that for a couple of months and I was asked to send it back but I never did and somehow it doesnt do it anymore.....go figure :-)

bilkocrew

08-10-07, 01:48 PM

spyder696969

08-10-07, 04:54 PM

Thanks guys, I will try the Hi power mode, It seems fine at the mo.I do still have 6 months left on the warranty, so if it happens again I may send it back.I have done the filter cleaning(never seems to be much dust in there anyway).Ive been reluctant to do a colour wheel clean,because it seems to be so fragile, and I might damage it, and some posters have commented they havent seen much of a difference.For me,the picture quality is still great.

BTW spyder, what in your opinion is the best screen gain for the 4805.
The CW isn't as fragile as you might think, though you do have to use care. While you may not see a huge difference in the PQ, it did my mind good just to know it was done. I finished two in consecutive order in less than 30 minutes each...and I was VERY thorough. The running in high power mode has the potential to dislodge any microscopic bits, such as dust or whatever, and the cleaning has the potential to assist the dislodging, as small pressure is applied to the wheel in the process, while the manual turning of the wheel is conducted. In the end, it may or may not help with the CW buzzsaw whine.

As far as screen gain goes, there are countless variables the come into the equation, such as; viewing angles, ambient lighting conditions, viewer preferences, room environment, etc. If I were forced to recommend something though, I'd say 1.0 - 1.5 gain should suffice for most applications.

mwagner9

08-10-07, 05:57 PM

Anyone know where I can get a replacement fan for the sp4805? Thr big fan behind the bulb doesn't spin anymore - though it does make funny noises.

I tried a regular computer fan but it wouldn't spin up either. Any ideas?

Maybe it is time for a new projector.... I already fixed the light tunnel, now this...

spyder696969

08-10-07, 08:18 PM

Anyone know where I can get a replacement fan for the sp4805? Thr big fan behind the bulb doesn't spin anymore - though it does make funny noises...
Read 3-4 pages back.

mwagner9

08-10-07, 09:02 PM

Hi,

I replaced the fans while it was apart, one 80mm fan and one 60mm fan, straight out of a computer , a little bit of modification to get them to fit properly, the originals are a bit slimmer than standard computer fans and the power connections need to be changed.
Regards
Gary.

I'm assuming you were referencing this post when you said check back a few pages. Here's the deal with my fan problem.

I took the fan out of the project and noticed that it didn't spin freely. The fan was hitting on the housing. So, i "fixed it" (Don't ask) so the fan spun just fine. However, the fan wouldn't start spinning in the projector. Hooking it to an 12V power supply made it work just fine though. So then I wired in a spare computer fan. That fan also would not spin up. I am starting to suspect that there is some type of pulse width modulation or the voltage is lower to make the fan spin slower - it spins WAY faster on my 12v supply.

I'm not sure what to do, I right now have the fan in the projector with a small set of wires leading out through the bulb door, going to my small 12v supply. It will let me run the projector at least.

It works, but it is pretty ghetto :)

xotis

08-11-07, 02:07 PM

Well, three fans and about ten put-it-together-CR@P-take-it-apart cycles later, it finally works.

The fan I ended up with was this Ultra Thermo-Control (http://ultraproducts.com/product_details.php?cPath=14&pPath=74&productID=74).

Hi,

Fantastic write up! I am doing the "take the projector apart, and put it back together" dance, too. My lamp fan recently died, and I am trying to install a new fan. (it makes a horrible noise, and the projector runs for 5 min before shutdown due to overheating).

I originally purchased this fan: http://www.crazypc.com/products/5775.html

Unfortunately, there were 2 problems with it.

1.) It had 3 wires - red, yellow, & black. The original Nidec 4805 fan only has 2 wires - a red and black wire. I figured the yellow was a ground wire, and that it could be ignored.
2.) The fan was too wide to fit properly inside the mounting brackets at the bottom of where it sits in the 4805. I presume that I incorrectly measured my fan, and that it is actually 80mm x 20mm not 80mm x 25mm.

So I'm back at square 1, and prior to reading this thread, I purchased THIS (http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=AD0812HB-C70-LFvirtualkey66400000virtualkey664-D8020HB-12VLF) additional fan.

Unfortunately, after reading your writeup, and then looking at the specs of the fan I just purchased from Mouser, I fear that the CFM rating will be too low (28.8).

That brings me to my question I REALLY hope you can help me with.

Based on your results, I want to purchase the Ultra Thermo-Control (http://ultraproducts.com/product_details.php?cPath=14&pPath=74&productID=74) fan. However, this fan is listed as 80mm x 25mm in size.

Did you have ANY troubles with getting this fan to sit properly in your 4805, or did you have to modify the case in any way in order to mount the fan?

Thanks!

spyder696969

08-11-07, 05:00 PM

...So then I wired in a spare computer fan. That fan also would not spin up...it spins WAY faster on my 12v supply.

I'm confused. If the fan won't spin at all in the unit, how do you know it spins WAY faster with the external PS?

mwagner9

08-11-07, 09:01 PM

I'm confused. If the fan won't spin at all in the unit, how do you know it spins WAY faster with the external PS?

Problem with my wording I guess. It won't spin up in the projector at all. However, connected to an external PS it seems to spin just fine.

The "way faster" part comes from me remembering the noise level of the projector - the fan must be spinning a lot faster now, as it is way, way louder than before.

Hopefully that clears it up - that will teach me to write things in a hurry :)

Mike

spyder696969

08-11-07, 09:19 PM

The "way faster" part comes from me remembering the noise level of the projector - the fan must be spinning a lot faster now, as it is way, way louder than before...
Ahh, I get it now. Sort of what I thought you meant, but never good to assume. I would suspect that the reason it's louder is either; it's rated as a higher speed, it has a higher cfm rating, or that it's running at full speed by being hooked up to the external PS. Remember, the pj has a low and high power mode, where the fan ramps up considerably in the latter.

What is the cfm and speed rating of the new fan, as compared to the stock?

KillerLeprechaun

08-12-07, 12:34 AM

I hope someone can give me some advice on what is causing this:

My 4805 is causing many thin black lines to run down the picture and I can’t get it to stop. I can still see the shows thru the lines but they will not disappear. Can anyone help me on this one?

Thanks in advance!

spyder696969

08-12-07, 01:40 AM

My 4805 is causing many thin black lines to run down the picture and I can’t get it to stop.
Sounds like a ground loop issue. Do a search on "ground loop" in this thread for a plethora of info.

Ja Phule

08-12-07, 02:08 PM

I am setting up a theater room with the following components:
IF 4805
Panny XR55 (or XR57)
Playstation 3
Dish Network HD-DVR ViP622

Question: Is it worth using HDMI for picture quality on the PS3 and running the sound through a XR57? Is there any sound advantage using HDMI?

I'm contemplating buying a XR57 over the XR55 because it has 1 HDMI in/out and I could use that for the PS3. I'm currently running my PS2 and DVR through component.

Any suggestions?

There is a great sound advantage using HDMI as HDMI can send higher quality audio than your regular coax/optical output. The PS3 can send out lossless sound via PCM from the new advanced audio formats such as Dolby Digital Plus and Dolby TrueHD.

dewdrop

08-13-07, 02:26 AM

If we were to run the DVI cable between the SP4805 and PS3, what is the maximum upscale will we get? Can we play the 720p games as well?

xotis

08-13-07, 10:17 PM

So, in replacing my fan, I must have wired my fan incorrectly, or done something wrong, because I completely fried my controller board.

I hooked everything up, checked it multiple times, put everything back together. Turned on the projector and heard a loud POP.

The projector wouldn't turn back on. There's a scorch mark the size of a pea where the Lamp fan plugs in to the controller board.

Is EBay the best place to go for 4805 parts? I'm guessing I can get a 4805 on there for $100 or so and get a controller board that way, although there are no guarantees it will work.

My other options are $400 for a new 4805 from InFocus, or go all out and get a Mitsubishi HD1000U or something :(

There goes my money for a vacation...

mym6

08-13-07, 10:26 PM

Sounds like something was shorted out or sized wrong. If I could do it over again I'd get an IN72 for nearly the same price.

spyder696969

08-13-07, 10:31 PM

Sounds like something was shorted out or sized wrong. If I could do it over again I'd get an IN72 for nearly the same price.
If you can ever find one! ;)

xotis

08-13-07, 10:56 PM

Sounds like something was shorted out or sized wrong. If I could do it over again I'd get an IN72 for nearly the same price.

Well, I can either get a 4805 for around $400, or I'll upgrade to a Mitsubishi HD1000u.

I wonder if I could even get anything for my fried projector. Everything is in tip-top shape with the exception of the fan and the main board. The lamp has about 1000 hours left on it and I was religious about cleaning the filter every 2 months with compressed CO2. I also have a ceiling mount, and the HDMI adapter as well. :-/

Do any of you think there's a market for my projector for parts, or should I just toss it in the trash? :(

spyder696969

08-14-07, 12:29 AM

At least offer the bulb up on AVS for fellow owners.

Ja Phule

08-14-07, 01:05 AM

If we were to run the DVI cable between the SP4805 and PS3, what is the maximum upscale will we get? Can we play the 720p games as well?

Should play games at 720p and 1080i just fine. It may even be possible to play them at 1080p.

dagware

08-14-07, 10:02 PM

Should play games at 720p and 1080i just fine. It may even be possible to play them at 1080p.
I play them at 720p and 1080i. Never tried 1080p.

spyder696969

08-14-07, 10:42 PM

The Xbox dashboard will boot up at 1080p only on the 4805. If you try to play a game at that resolution, the screen goes blank and re-synchs to 1080i by default. (Assuming you don't have composite only hooked up).

dagware

08-15-07, 07:35 PM

I tried the PS3 at 1080p, and it wouldn't work with my 4805. Not that it matters. It still looks good.

-Dan

spyder696969

08-16-07, 12:50 AM

I tried the PS3 at 1080p, and it wouldn't work with my 4805. Not that it matters. It still looks good.

-Dan
What looks better, 1080i or 720p?

SteveCS

08-16-07, 10:45 AM

I have what is probably a simple-stupid question. I'm researching replacements for my 4805. I'm projecting at 12', and can't change it. I'd love to have a screen bigger than my current 76" for 2.35 films, so 1080P is my goal. When I use the 4805 projection calculator at Proj Central or at Infocus, they tell me that my 12' set-up gives me a range of 76" to 92". Well, that is backwards. My zoom is maxed out to give me the 76". Is there something limiting my projection size? Are the calculators wrong? Am I using the calculators incorrectly?
Any help would be appreciated.
-Steve

spyder696969

08-16-07, 12:24 PM

I have what is probably a simple-stupid question...
I don't think it's a stupid questoin, though I can't say why you're so far off. You should be able to get 76" at somewhere around 10 feet with max zoom, not at 12 feet. The only things I can think of is to double check the zoom to see if it's truly maxed out and/or to also see if you're really at 12' and not 10'. :confused:

dagware

08-16-07, 06:11 PM

What looks better, 1080i or 720p?
Uh, um, ah.... I don't know. :o The only game I have is TW Golf 07, and it's 720p. The XMB is in 1080i, and although it's a little hard to read because the text is so small, it's fine. I'll mess around a while and report back (if I remember -- it's been a busy week).

Surely someone else on this thread has a PS3 and has an opinion on which looks better, right?

-Dan

Ja Phule

08-17-07, 12:34 AM

SteveCS

08-17-07, 10:11 AM

Thanks for the responses. I double-checked the distance last night. 12ft from screen to lens. Screen is a 76" diagonal. Zoom is maxed.
The whole reason I asked the question was due to the discrepancy between the calculator and the reality in my basement. If no one has seen any issues with the calculators, that's cool. The calculators are the starting point for all of us, so we need to be able to trust them.
For instance, the new Optoma HD80 calculates as fitting into my set-up, if I can figure out how to deal with that extreme offset.

spyder696969

08-17-07, 10:27 AM

Thanks for the responses. I double-checked the distance last night. 12ft from screen to lens. Screen is a 76" diagonal. Zoom is maxed...
Hmmm. I guess if all else is good, then there's something wrong with your projector. :(

Clams Canino

08-19-07, 02:10 AM

At least offer the bulb up on AVS for fellow owners.

BOO!! I'm still here. Good to see things havn't changed much. My bulb is now at 2400 hours and dimming badly. What's my best options for a new lamp??

-W

spyder696969

08-19-07, 12:16 PM

What's my best options for a new lamp??
A PM to xotis might be the best option for a spare lamp to get by until 1080p upgrade.

Clams Canino

08-20-07, 10:03 AM

Done... thanks.

I'll upgrade eventually... but we still love our little 4805 at present.

-Wayne

klover

08-20-07, 10:58 AM

Anyone here know what is a reasonable price to pay for a new, sealed-in-box 4805?
Found one locally but they list it at $1000. I'm speaking with the manager of the place (retail) this morning and can't figure what a good price would be.

I'd love to say Place X is selling it for $X but nobody is...

Duane T

08-20-07, 01:16 PM

klover, look to see what price the IN72 is going for, it replaced the 4805. A 4805 should be cheaper than the current price of the IN72, if its still around.

For a little more than the price you are looking at, or even at that price, you could get a 720 machine. Don't get me wrong, I love my 4805 but if I was paying that much I'd look at a step up in resolution.

spyder696969

08-20-07, 01:59 PM

Anyone here know what is a reasonable price to pay for a new, sealed-in-box 4805?
Found one locally but they list it at $1000.
That's waaaaay too much, plus I'd be more than a little leery of any "new" 4805 units still left out there after such a very, very long time. I mean, even it's replacement has been virtually sold out already. It's doubtful that the manager is going to slash 70-80% of the price for you to make it reasonable as well. Good luck.

klover

08-20-07, 03:00 PM

Yeah, I'm not entirely optomistic myself.

I did, however, see the box and it's most certainly factory fresh...well... "factory" at least. They only received two machines the other is still on the ceiling with about 50 hours. This place doesn't specialize in home theater if you couldn't tell.

I got a lead on a demo IN72 and am just waiting to hear back on the # of hours on the bulb. The last demo I bought a few weeks ago (IN72) had about 40 hours on the bulb and cost me $450 CDN.

Needless to say the profit of its sale is going to cover the bulk of my next purchase :)

krasmuzik

08-20-07, 03:20 PM

IN72 is $600US after rebate (MSRP) - inform your dealer you can get the SP4805 replacement NIB manufacturer direct for less. The SP4805 no longer has an MSRP - it is ... obsolete..

klover

08-20-07, 04:39 PM

spyder696969

08-20-07, 06:24 PM

This time I'm not going to sell it and then miss it. This one stays.

Smart thinking.

Luis Gabriel Gerena

08-24-07, 04:07 PM

spyder696969

08-24-07, 04:49 PM

hi!
I just got a HD-DVD A2 after I sold my A1 two months ago and got a M1 to HDMI cable.
Do I have to set the 58/28.5 for HDMI for this HD-DVD player?

Also., I read a comment about some specifi RGB numbers by Bob. Here is the link to the comment #
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=9260324&postcount=6414
Any idea what he is talking about?

:eek: What, no HD-DVD drive for your beloved HTPC??? ;)

Luis, my fellow Utahn, you should know that you don't have to do anything. :D Throw those numbers in there and see what you think with your own eyes! As far as the other post is concerned, why not a PM to Mupi himself? He's still around, though doesn't post much anymore, save for about prisms. :)

Luis Gabriel Gerena

08-25-07, 02:03 AM

LOL Yep no HD-DVD for my PC until I change to water cooling. My PC is an OCed monster BUT its loud as hell and while before I was a headphone movie watcher now, sometime ago I started getting back into speakers (check my sig) and now I cant take my PC's vacumm cleaner noise (I am serious is that loud..think couple of Delta ultra fast and noisy fans).

So, I jumped to HD-DVD ....then again ,...they look so awesome that I dont need to tweak anything. :-)

krasmuzik

08-25-07, 03:48 PM

Good old SP4805 - now that was back in the day when real men had to set DVI Video levels themselves. None of this automagic handshake BS :D

krasmuzik

08-25-07, 03:50 PM

Buggers wouldn't budge on the 4805. I did mention that it's replacement could be had for $400 less and they said "so why don't you buy that". I suppose it's a good point...

Thankfully, right after they insisted on me spending $1000 CDN for the 4805 I got an IN72 with 7 hours on the bulb (store demo) for $450 CDN.
This time I'm not going to sell it and then miss it. This one stays.

Retailers - the state of the warehouse is the state of the art....someday they will figure out unsold inventory that they are making a loss on already - the longer they wait the more loss they make. Sounds like they are waiting for a sucker....either that or the sales is waiting for the boss to say keep the demo as your bonus - so he is making sure nobody buys it!

spyder696969

08-25-07, 04:28 PM

automagic

"Automagic" :D

If that's not intentional, it's a very fortuitous and felicitous typo. ;)

therealgeno

08-25-07, 04:42 PM

hi!
I just got a HD-DVD A2 after I sold my A1 two months ago and got a M1 to HDMI cable.
Do I have to set the 58/28.5 for HDMI for this HD-DVD player?

Also., I read a comment about some specifi RGB numbers by Bob. Here is the link to the comment #
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=9260324&postcount=6414
Any idea what he is talking about?

Luis

Since you are running DVI, then keeping the player at defaults, you do want to set RGB gains/offests to 58/28.5 respectfully for the full range and maximum contrast 16-235. Remember that this method has more bits to drive the panel without banding (which is really annoying). You should double-check with Avia/DVE to make sure your player is not doing anything wierd.

As for Bob's "special numbers," I do not remember anything of the sort - and I have been following both threads since the beginning.

Hope this helps.

skatewabbit

08-26-07, 11:49 AM

the main fan in my 4805 has warped and locked up, after much looking i think ive found a couple compatable ones at newark. i've got 3 choices in terms of cfm and noise, what do people think?

choice A: 27 cfm and 31 dba
choice B: 26 cfm and 26 dba
choice C: 35 cfm and 33 dba
choice D: 44 cfm and 42 dba

and by 3 choices i mean 4 choices, yeah.

Redbird

08-27-07, 09:56 AM

My fan is still working fine, but....

Lately, my lamp is not striking on the first try. First time this happened, it worked on the second try. The next time, it took about 8 or 9 restarts before the lamp struck. The LED light was solid green each time (I assume meaning no warnings) and the signature "beep" at startup was not heard when the lamp did not strike.

My first thought was the lamp was dead but obviously that is not the case because it eventually lit. Seems like everyone else with a similar problem at least had some indication of what was going on via the led on the top of the unit (flashing red, etc).

Is this bad sign? Can't be good.

vttom

08-28-07, 01:00 PM

Just a guess here, but do you mostly run it in low-power mode? If so, try running it in non-low-power mode for several hours. I was having funcky issues with my lamp flickering, and running it in non-low-power mode cleared things up. After that, I went back to my usual, low-power viewing habit and it's been fine ever since. The prevailing theory is that you need to go into high-power mode once in a while to burn off accumulated "stuff" on the lamp terminals in order to get a consistant arc in low-power mode.

Ja Phule

08-28-07, 10:12 PM

Redbird

08-29-07, 10:33 AM

Thanks for the suggestion vttom & Ja Phule. I'll give it a try. I not experiencing any "flicker" though. Once it is on, it is on. It just takes several tries to get it to light. I'll see what happens.

-Redbird

Mako PJ

08-30-07, 06:11 PM

Could someone be so kinds as to give me some instructions as to how to open up the case for the 4805? I have the problem with the tunnel becoming unglued and I need to crack it open. I have all the screws out and the lamp but I don't know what piece of the case to take off first. I really don't want to break the plastic. Basically, I need to get to the mirror tunnel only.

Also what is that security lock? I dont recall getting any additional information or a key for that.

Thanks in advance.

vttom

08-30-07, 07:10 PM

The "dust blob" cleaning instuction do a pretty good job describing (and showing) how to disassemble the 4805:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=556431

My personal experience, however, was that the "laso" method for removing the lense rings wasn't very effective. I wound up using a screwdriver to pop them off.

Mako PJ

08-30-07, 07:20 PM

do you have to take the lens off to open the case... seems like the front would come off without removing the lens and focus ring?? Also, in those pics I don't see the mirror tunnel? Does the top of the case need to come off to get to the light tunnel?

thanks in advance.

Redbird

08-31-07, 09:48 AM

Just a guess here, but do you mostly run it in low-power mode? If so, try running it in non-low-power mode for several hours......The prevailing theory is that you need to go into high-power mode once in a while to burn off accumulated "stuff" on the lamp terminals in order to get a consistant arc in low-power mode.

I gave it a try but it didn't help anything. It took about 15 tries to get the lamp to light. Once it came on, I burned in hi-power mode for 2.5 hours. About 5 hours later I tried starting it again and the lamp wouldn't light.

I called InFocus tech support and they told me this is normal behavior when a lamp it at the end of its life (I'm at 1200 hrs). I'm not sold on that theory though. Once it strikes, the light is nice and bright and when it doesn't strike, I don't hear the projector trying to start the lamp (beep) and do not see any error messages.

They offered to sell me a new lamp. If it doesn't solve the problem, I could return it within 30 days. Haven't decided how to proceed but buying a new lamp for about $100-150 less than the price of a brand new unit doesn't sound like such a great option.

vttom

08-31-07, 10:57 AM

do you have to take the lens off to open the case... seems like the front would come off without removing the lens and focus ring??Yes, you have to take the focus and zoom rings off in order to get the projector apart.

Mako PJ

08-31-07, 01:49 PM

I got the front and back and top off.... I don't see the light tunnel. I am looking at the picture of the guy who fixed his light tunnel, I just don't see it without taking this whole thing apart.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

mym6

08-31-07, 02:38 PM

I gave it a try but it didn't help anything. It took about 15 tries to get the lamp to light. Once it came on, I burned in hi-power mode for 2.5 hours. About 5 hours later I tried starting it again and the lamp wouldn't light.

I called InFocus tech support and they told me this is normal behavior when a lamp it at the end of its life (I'm at 1200 hrs). I'm not sold on that theory though. Once it strikes, the light is nice and bright and when it doesn't strike, I don't hear the projector trying to start the lamp (beep) and do not see any error messages.

They offered to sell me a new lamp. If it doesn't solve the problem, I could return it within 30 days. Haven't decided how to proceed but buying a new lamp for about $100-150 less than the price of a brand new unit doesn't sound like such a great option.

What was your usage pattern like? On/Off a lot or did you let it run for a number of hours each time?

Redbird

08-31-07, 04:30 PM

What was your usage pattern like? On/Off a lot or did you let it run for a number of hours each time?

Not a lot of ON/OFF. Turning the projector OFF then back ON in a single day was a rare event.

We typically used it for movies on the weekends. If I ever turned it off then back on, it was because we wouldn't be watching another movie for more than 2 hours but that was rare.

"Used"....that's past tense....I'm hoping to get more "use" out of it. Just gotta cross my fingers every time I flip the power switch and hope the lamp strikes.

Jeradin

08-31-07, 05:54 PM

Hi all,

I have owned my HD1000U for a while now, and need to finally let go of my 4805.

I am just curious what would be an ok sales price for a full package.

1. 4805 (705 hours)
2. 108" screen.
3. Ceiling Mount.
4. 25' DVI Cable.
5. M1-to-DVI-D converter.
6. Bravo D1 (with mod)

So ya, all that... $600 to much?

Thanks for the advice.

therealgeno

08-31-07, 06:24 PM

Jeradin

Keep in mind that the 4805 is now obsolete - though you do have all the accessories, screen, and DVD player.

Maybe a per item price and discount if more than one or all is bought?

Mako PJ

08-31-07, 07:12 PM

Ok, found the guide for the light tunnel, what a bitch. It was a mess. Well, got back together partially, but it does not power up all the way... it is getting power... the green light goes on the color wheel starts up... than it quits... green light blinks... shuts down for about 20 seconds than tries again... lamp never turns on.

Boy, lost respect for Infocus on this design, horrible just trying get the case open.

Any help on what might be happening?????

:(

spyder696969

08-31-07, 07:37 PM

I am just curious what would be an ok sales price for a full package.
(List of items)
So ya, all that... $600 to much?

Too much. $350 (for family/friend) - $450 (total stranger) feels fair to me.

cavu

08-31-07, 07:57 PM

Keep in mind that the 4805 is now obsoleteIt is not "obsolete". It is out-of-production. You can still purchase brand-new 4805 units from some outlets.

It will be "obsolete" when InFocus ceases to provide support for it or a new technology altogether eclipses the DMD used by the 4805.

Mako PJ

08-31-07, 09:56 PM

spyder696969

09-01-07, 02:14 AM

Boy, whoever designed the guts of this 4805 needs to be shot. Holy crap. Segments of my color wheel broke off when putting the light tunnel back in. Called Infocus they wouldn't send me a new light tunnel said they wanted $1000+ plus to fix it. I fixed the light tunnel... put it back in... color wheel dropped a little... 3 segments broke off.

Lost basically all respect for this company, can't get parts... want $1000+ to fix a machine that isn't worth $500.

Mako,

I understand you're frustrated/upset, but if you were tearing into nearly any PJ, you'd likely be experiencing the exact same thing, or at least something very similar to it. There are quite a few here that have opened up their 4805 many times and fixed or modded a plethora of things without the extent the problems you seem to be facing.*

*I will concede, however, that the light tunnel could have been better.

Mako PJ

09-01-07, 02:29 AM

Spyder,

Yeah I know, just kinda pissed right now. Actually, got the whole thing put back together... basically had to take the whole projector apart. Reglued the color wheel back into one piece... the color wheel makes so much noise now it's just not usable. I did get rid of the dark edge from the light tunnel but now there is like darkness on the lower part of the picture, I think there are like scratches on it(light tunnel) now.

I am not really mad something breaking, what I am really mad about is $1000+ to fix something I just need a part for and for something that is clearly worth only a few hundred bucks.

Oh well life goes on.

Mako,

I understand you're frustrated/upset, but if you were tearing into nearly any PJ, you'd likely be experiencing the exact same thing, or at least something very similar to it. There are quite a few here that have opened up their 4805 many times and fixed or modded a plethora of things without the extent the problems you seem to be facing.*

*I will concede, however, that the light tunnel could have been better.

gnolivos

09-01-07, 09:00 AM

Can someone explain what the light tunnel issue is all about? Seems like latley a lot of people are eperiencing this issue... was it like a time bomb? all of a sudden all 4805 start failing!

Mako PJ

09-01-07, 09:11 AM

Check page 226 of this thread.

There is a tunnel that the light travels down from the lamp to the lens. It's very small... like an inch long by 3mm by 4mm (I think), kind of like a square tube. It is constructive of 4 mirrors which is glued. Well, over time with the heat in their with the lamp the glue come off. You start to develop a dark yellowish color on your image where the light is escaping from the tunnel. The tunnel is becoming unglued. You have to understand how small this thing is to work with to reglue it. The placement of the tunnel requires you to remove the color wheel as well, with is very delicate as well, with a very short ribbon cable.

In my case I repaired it but than I was getting dark colors in other areas of the image as well. This really wouldn't be a problem if you could just call Infocus and get the parts. The tunnel probably cost less than a few dollars to make but they want $1000+ to fix it. Glad car makers don't do that.

Can someone explain what the light tunnel issue is all about? Seems like latley a lot of people are eperiencing this issue... was it like a time bomb? all of a sudden all 4805 start failing!

andy12

09-01-07, 01:44 PM

Ultiman

09-01-07, 01:51 PM

Well, as all good things come to an end, I'm starting to get the light tunnel issue too. After reading about the repair tactics, it is probably beyond my capabilities. I suppose I'll just live with it until it either becomes unusable or I can convince a certain someone to get something new. :(

It was fun while it lasted.

Luis Gabriel Gerena

09-01-07, 03:47 PM

The HTPC has the potential to be the ultimate dvd player for the 4805 BUT it takes work and the correct combination of programs. I always used TheaterTek and ffdshow in order to run avisynth scripts...the results were outstanding.

Ja Phule

09-01-07, 03:49 PM

Hi, i'm using 4805 and denon 2910 for 2 years, and I'm setting up a HTPC to watch my backed up sd-dvd. I feel that the Picture quality is not as good as my dvd player, is this normal for a htpc? or is it my video card? its a XFX 7600GT with 256DDR3.

thank you

It depends very much on your software and your calibration. Check the HTPC area about what software to use. TheaterTek software was popular last time I checked. Pixel mapping your pc to the 4805 at 848x480 resolution would also help.

kamezzle13

09-03-07, 03:11 PM

was watching some soccer this morning and in the middle of the match my projector went black. projector had been running for about 1 hour (est) before it quit. at first it didn't blink red, but i couldn't shut it off via remote. flipped off the switch, waited a couple mins, turn it back on and i get a single red blink. I've tried taking the lamp out a couple times to fix the prob (thanks to those who posted this tip), but to no success have i got the projector to turn back on. The lamp just wont strike, does this mean its time for a new bulb? i am still under the 2 yr warantee, but this prob would fall under the 90 day warantee correct?

if i do have to purchase a bulb, im debating buying a refurbed sp4805 or just going ahead and upgrading to 720p... i was perfectly happy with the picture quality on my pj, but why not take the oppurtunity to upgrade?

kamezzle13

09-03-07, 05:18 PM

also if i do decide to go with another 4805, what was the most likely cause of this? the lamp hadn't even reached its estimated life yet; I'm not sure what the actual hours were, but it never indicated a warning and was used in only economy mode so i'm sure i was well under the limit.

audiomagnate

09-04-07, 02:05 PM

I've been searching for about half an hour, and I can't believe you can't just call up inFocus and have them send you out a light tube to correct the "Old Yellow stain" problem. If they were a decent company, they'ld do it for free, but I'm willing to pay to correct an obvious manufacturing defect There is no way I'm going to make one myself, so is it time to dump the old girl?

Mako PJ

09-04-07, 02:15 PM

Infocus so called support is a joke. Some Indian guy got on the phone and quoted me a $1000 bill to fix the light tube problem. You have got to be kidding me.

I've been searching for about half an hour, and I can't believe you can't just call up inFocus and have them send you out a light tube to correct the "Old Yellow stain" problem. If they were a decent company, they'ld do it for free, but I'm willing to pay to correct an obvious manufacturing defect There is no way I'm going to make one myself, so is it time to dump the old girl?

audiomagnate

09-04-07, 02:29 PM

Infocus so called support is a joke. Some Indian guy got on the phone and quoted me a $1000 bill to fix the light tube problem. You have got to be kidding me.

I just this second got off the phone with Infocus, and some Indian guy acted like he'd never heard of this problem before (must have been a different Indian guy), but it would cost $1000 to fix because "it sounds like it might be an optical problem." A $2.00 part would get me going again, but I guess that's not an option.

Mako PJ

09-04-07, 02:44 PM

You got the same guy as me... that is what he told me... it's optical so it's $1000+. I said, so you have the parts... you won't send the part to anyone... you can go buy two IN72s for the same amount that you want to fix mine for? He was like yep, like it made sense.

I just this second got off the phone with Infocus, and some Indian guy acted like he'd never heard of this problem before (must have been a different Indian guy), but it would cost $1000 to fix because "it sounds like it might be an optical problem." A $2.00 part would get me going again, but I guess that's not an option.

gnolivos

09-04-07, 02:57 PM

This is outrageous!!!! Dumpt the Infocus, and buy another brand. That's what I'll be doing. INFOCUS, never again!!!!

audiomagnate

09-04-07, 03:16 PM

I used to work for Mitsubishi. Our two year old top of the line VCR at the time (late 80's) had a problem that caused it to go out of alignment and start damaging tapes. We issued warranty authorizations for units that were out of warranty until we realized that the problem tended to reoccur. We decided that if anybody took the time to call us (no 800 number and a 10 minute wait) to complain about that model we would exchange it for the current model, which retailed for half the price, but never broke. People LOVED US!!!

They were so shocked when they called in and started describing the problem and we stopped them in mid-sentence and said, "Why don't you just send us the unit and we'll send you a brand new current model?" they didn't know what to say. They were ready to fight for a free repair and instead they got a brand new perfectly functioning unit for the price of a phone call and one way shipping. If Infocus had any brains they'ld own up to the problem and make a similar offer for a current 720p model, instead of building ill will. I'm sure Mitsubishi created many lifetime customers with that exchange program.

kamezzle13

09-04-07, 03:44 PM

so now i have to ask, why would they charge so much for the fix when they have refurbs listed for less then they have the cost of a bulb listed? hopefully me saying that wasn't against the forum rules, but i just don't understand why...

spyder696969

09-04-07, 06:39 PM

audiomagnate

09-04-07, 07:44 PM

Huh. I guess people don't realize that the 4805 is an ancient (by projector standards) machine that IF doesn't want (nor need) to offer repairs on after 2-3 years of service. I'll grant that the light tunnel is a ridiculous design that should have been made better, but to think IF should entirely skip over the IN72 and give a 4X cost, 720p unit (IN76, retail $1300) away in exchange for a dated 4805 seems pretty strange to me. :confused:

If a 3 year-old Ford Taurus suffers from a design flaw, should I get a shiny new Lexus as a replacement? :rolleyes:

Also, while IF's customer support may be terrible, I think it's possible that there's more than one Indian guy out there. ;)

Ancient? I'm about six months out of warranty and they won't even sell me me the repair part, they wan't to charge me $1000+ to "repair" what is becoming a known manufacturing defect and you think that's OK? The bulb outlasted the machine for C***** sake!

And yeah, there are at least two Indian guys out there, but they both have the same script.

zaphod7501

09-04-07, 08:05 PM

they won't even sell me me the repair part
They probably don't have any because Texas Instrument generally doesn't sell individual parts for it's light engines. InFocus doesn't build the light engines, they purchase them as units. T.I. would be the company you need to attempt to purchase individual parts from.

The only color wheel or light tube that I have ever seen listed as a repair part was from Samsung on it's microdisplay RPTV. They were both over $100 and no specs or dimensions were listed. No other manufacturer of those TVs (microdisplay) sell any individual light engine parts (that I've found).

I suspect that InFocus relies on T.I. for rebuilding PJs. As protective of it's patents as most Americam companies are: I doubt that T.I authorizes any third party to actually work on the light engines. It sucks, but that has been the trend in TV design since about 2000/2001. (not unique to InFocus)

audiomagnate

09-04-07, 08:25 PM

They probably don't have any because Texas Instrument generally doesn't sell individual parts for it's light engines. InFocus doesn't build the light engines, they purchase them as units. T.I. would be the company you need to attempt to purchase individual parts from.

The only color wheel or light tube that I have ever seen listed as a repair part was from Samsung on it's microdisplay RPTV. They were both over $100 and no specs or dimensions were listed. No other manufacturer of those TVs (microdisplay) sell any individual light engine parts (that I've found).

I suspect that InFocus relies on T.I. for rebuilding PJs. As protective of it's patents as most Americam companies are: I doubt that T.I authorizes any third party to actually work on the light engines. It sucks, but that has been the trend in TV design since about 2000/2001. (not unique to InFocus)

You do understand we're talking about a cheezy little "light tunnel" made out of four little mirrors as shown in this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10809353#post10809353).

They have to have them in stock, how else could they offer the $1000 repair? I doubt they are using tweezers and super glue method described in the thread. I just think it's pathetic that a manufacturer would essentially abandon a $900 product less than a year out of warranty. There used to be a law that said a manufacturer had to stock repair parts for seven years after the last date of manufacture.

spyder696969

09-04-07, 09:45 PM

You do understand we're talking about a cheezy little "light tunnel" made out of four little mirrors...

Light tunnel does NOT equal light engine. Why not just make the "cheesy little thing" yourself for a pittance? It's not that difficult.

...I just think it's pathetic that a manufacturer would essentially abandon a $900 product less than a year out of warranty...

$900??? Call the police immediately and report a crime...because you got raped! :eek:

...There used to be a law that said a manufacturer had to stock repair parts for seven years after the last date of manufacture.

Maybe so, but there's also these laws: http://sneakykitchen.com/Humor/old_laws.htm

(Best website ever!) :D

spyder696969

09-04-07, 10:42 PM

OK, so I decided I might have been a bit harsh in the above /\ post. I understand there is some serious venting out of frustration going on here, so I'll try to be more sympathetic, tone it down, and explain.

IF has to sell the repair, since TI sells them the whole part, then IF is responsible for making certian that the repair is done correctly and that the PJ works so that they don't have to replace the unit with a newer one still in production. (Particularly one that costs 4X as much, which, sympathy aside, is still beyond unreasonable.) IF can't just whip a new light tunnel piece out of their ass and ship it out at $2, thus being left with the worthless remainder of the whole ($Who-knows-how-much) unit, and also hoping that Joe Consumer doesn't botch the job completely, only to turn around and blame them. TI likely won't sell parts to consumers, as they make far, far more $ selling IF the whole light engine. Plus, if Joe screws the pooch on the repair, TI doesn't want to ship another part for that error.

Either way, it sucks for Joe, but, in the end, Joe simply must evaluate, and, more often than not, head on over to eBay and get the parts or just build one himself, like a creative AVS member here did out of a hard drive.

adude

09-05-07, 12:38 AM

I have a different view on it. What's the fault of the average customer in this case? Just that they bought a badly designed product in the first place? The design is faulty so no matter what, the companies should pay for it. One year warranty does NOT mean the unit should fail under two years or so. Infocus should own this problem and fix it or provide the solution cheap. We don't care whether TI ultimately ships/builds the light tunnel. IF should take care of their customers and so TI theirs (in this case Infocus).

Ultimately, the company which gives good service will get my money. There is no point in defending the companies till the end. Even though I bought IN72 (simply for price point) after my 4805 failed, I will think a lot before spending more than $500 on any other Infocus product.