Ancient? I'm about six months out of warranty and they won't even sell me me the repair part.Welcome to the current reality! :eek:

Most of the manufacturers these days have similar policies. A good friend runs a warranty depot for all the usual suspects. He tells me that it is very common to not be able to buy parts for everything from DVD players through 60" plasma TVs. There is very little, if any, "board-level" repair taking place - it's all module/board swap. He's got a shop full of abandoned $5000 plasma TV sets, just out of warranty and with no parts available.

InFocus may be no better but is certainly no worse than anyone else.

Either way, as a customer it sucks. A couple of dollar part is stopping me from enjoying something I paid for. The whole thing is stupid and it doesn't matter to me if other companies do that to. I will not say I will never buy an Infocus product again, but if I do I will only buy it knowing it's a throw-away product once it breaks, which means I am not going to spend big money on it.

I am just glad Ford doesn't do this with their parts. Hell, my girlfriend got B-26 cockpit parts(instruments/displays) for her dad for X-mas because his dad was a pilot of one in WWII. The parts were like brand new, never been opened boxes and still sealed... 65+ years old parts. This is just crazy talk... it's horrible customer service, hell, I was willing to pay for the dam part... it's not like I am even asking them to do something.... it's not like asked for a recall or something.

go over to ebay

(I had a URL with a search string for you, but guess it is not allowed)

and get a non-working 4805 for $15-20, and replace your light tunnel.

It is beyond logic to expect IF (or any manufacturer) to maintain stock on now-ancient PJs.
The reason we can even buy such high-tech gear at such low prices in the first place is that
the manufacturing relies on whole sub-assemblies with non-replaceable parts (light engine, lens, etc).

If you want user-replaceable parts, long-term availability (and let's have upgradeable components, too,
while we're at it), well there's the $20,000 and over forum. You can't have it both ways.
Also known as the "there's no free lunch" principle.

Can someone please refresh my memory?

Was it the X1/X1A lamp or the X2 lamp that easily crossed over into the 4805 with a simple connector change?

And if you recall, what were the spec differences between the lamps??

-W

With respect to whether the light tunnel issue should be covered by IF or not -- this is what extended warranties are for. Every time I buy a product from some place that offers an extended warranty, I roll the dice, one way or the other. If I buy the extended warranty, I'm paying for peace of mind that if something fails, it will be fixed for free (well, not free because I paid for the warranty, but you know what I mean). If I choose not to buy the extended warranty, then I EXPECT to be SOL if something breaks after the normal warranty is up. If that happens, then I throw up my hands and say that I lost the gamble.

Of course, I'd love it if the manufacturer fixes the problem for free, outside the warranty period. And they would certainly gain my loyalty if they did. But if they didn't, well, I gambled and lost. I might decide that since the company produced a defective product, I might not buy from them again because what's to keep something similar from happening? But I wouldn't complain if they didn't fix it.

Or then again, maybe I would complain, expecially here, because I know I'd get sympathy. :rolleyes: But I would not *expect* them to fix it for free.

FWIW, I almost never buy extended warranties. But I bought one for the 4805 because it included replacing the bulb if need (I was dubious of whether they'd actually do it, but I figured it was worth a shot because the extended warranty was so cheap compared to the cost of a bulb). I also bought one for my Wii because it was such new technology that I figured it was worth it.

I think I probably wasted my money in both cases. I ended up buying a spare bulb because I couldn't stand the thought of being without my PJ if the bulb burned out. And it looks like the Wii is pretty solidly designed. So in my case, I lost the gamble. Oh well.

-Dan

PS: I do, in fact, sympathize with the OP about this. It does suck for him, no question.

I don't know if this already was discussed here, so I'm sorry, but my 4805 just got the follow problem: the projection on the right side of the screen (it's ceiling mounted) appears to be burned, a big black area top to bottom. The rest of the image seems normal. Somebody know what's possibly caused this? It's a lamp issue?

Gawd!@#$%^&*()

Is it true that in cyberspace, no-one can hear you scream!?









Quatermain: :confused: If you had taken the effort to actually READ anything in this thread, you might have noticed that the entire last couple pages have been about your problem. Go back to #7230 and start there.

LOL! Cavu, you just make me spit out my lunch! :D

Thanks for the laugh.

Yep, most probably your light tunnel is coming unglued... see page 226 of this thread and my comments the last few pages. Either fix it yourself (good luck) or have Infocus fix it for $1000. Yep $1000. They won't sell you the part either.

I don't know if this already was discussed here, so I'm sorry, but my 4805 just got the follow problem: the projection on the right side of the screen (it's ceiling mounted) appears to be burned, a big black area top to bottom. The rest of the image seems normal. Somebody know what's possibly caused this? It's a lamp issue?

Did I say this whole thing is a *&$*&%@ FIASCO?! Infocus has to be THE WORST!!!

I don't know if this already was discussed here, so I'm sorry, but my 4805 just got the follow problem: the projection on the right side of the screen (it's ceiling mounted) appears to be burned, a big black area top to bottom. The rest of the image seems normal. Somebody know what's possibly caused this? It's a lamp issue?


Too freakin' funny. This thread needed some comic relief.

Anyway, getting back to my "ancient" projector,I bought my unit in December 2004 (2 years plus eight months ago), the infocus website lists it as a "current" projector http://www.infocus.com/Support/Products/AllProducts.aspx with a 2year warranty http://www.infocus.com/Support/Products/Projectors/SP4805.aspx as opposed to a "legacy" projector. It has a whopping 2600 hours on it. And as to being "raped" $900 was a good deal in December 2004.

Welcome to the current reality! :eek:

Most of the manufacturers these days have similar policies. A good friend runs a warranty depot for all the usual suspects. He tells me that it is very common to not be able to buy parts for everything from DVD players through 60" plasma TVs. There is very little, if any, "board-level" repair taking place - it's all module/board swap. He's got a shop full of abandoned $5000 plasma TV sets, just out of warranty and with no parts available.

InFocus may be no better but is certainly no worse than anyone else.
I'm one of the few component level repair shops left and the Manufacturers' policies have just about put me out of business. Major design changes took place around the year 2000. Design changes combined with sales and marketing misinformation have people buying new sets when all they will need is an external digital tuner. People are putting big screen sets on the curb when all they needed was a $100 repair.

The reason I knew about the Samsung parts was that I researched extensively trying to find any availability. I was hoping the light tunnel would be the same size as the InFocus so I could pass on the info here, but the construction seems quite a bit different.

I had an IN-Warranty set that had no parts available; eventually exchanged.

The last of the mandatory parts supply laws went out during the Reagan administration and Sony claimed there never were any that applied to TVs. The government tends to monitor and regulate "White Goods" but seems ignorant about "Brown Goods".

I bought my 4805 because I knew that I could buy another one for the cost of any repair on a Plasma or LCD flat panel set. (and that was at full price ~$1000). Even when boards are available, the repair costs on a Plasma run from $5-600 on the low side up to $4-5000 with no ability to stop in the middle -- all the boards are non-returnable special orders.

Infocus has to be THE WORST!!!Wake up!

There are many, many worse manufacturers when it comes to after warranty support!

Wake up!!! Charging MORE than the COST of the actual product, for a $5 part is a joke. WAKE UP!!! HELLO!!!!??

Wake up!

There are many, many worse manufacturers when it comes to after warranty support!

You all might get a kick out of this article. Especially note the cost of repairing a Vizio out of warranty, or the Polaroid situation.
http://hdguru.com/?p=107

Exactly !!

Dude, the fact that Infocus 'provides a replacement part' at $1000 cost, is pretty much like saying they do NOT provide parts. They might as well just be selling you a new 4805 ROTF. I give up with you!

Exactly !!

Agreed.
Whan a "replacement part" is provided at the average retail cost of the entire device. they don't reall ysell parts at all - or mean for it to be ever repaired.

-W

Dude, the fact that Infocus 'provides a replacement part' at $1000 cost, is pretty much like saying they do NOT provide parts. They might as well just be selling you a new 4805 ROTF. I give up with you!I think part of the point here is that "they" is not InFocus but Texas Instruments. Rage should be directed at the source of a problem, not an intermediary.

Almost all of the digital technology is owned by American companies but none of them manufacture products so there is a disconnect between supply and support. Americans are so protective of their tech that they don't release enough info to properly fix anything, a replace not repair mentality. ie Since T.I. only supplies it's digital chipsets in a BGA package (now), a circuit board with one upon it cannot be repaired - physically impossible. Sony built one D-8 camcorder without BGA chips but T.I. would not release the diagnostics to troubleshoot them, so they were still unrepairable.

If T.I. had to fix a product, then the parts would be availabe, but they don't sell a retail product, hence no pressure to properly support repair.

TI prolly sold those complete light engines to Infocus for <$300 if not less. Or else the PJ would be unbuildable at a profit.

-W

TI prolly sold those complete light engines to Infocus for <$300 if not less. Or else the PJ would be unbuildable at a profit.

-WExactly, they sold them and moved on with no thought (or need) for support.

The same thing applies to the lamp/ballast combination. Economy of scale allows a product to be built and sold affordably but not repaired.

That's why the 4805 was $1000 not $5000. It is a pretty amazing product for the price. I bought mine knowing that it was unrepairable technology. That's why I will not buy a Plasma or LCD panel. Those $5000 - $10,000 Plasmas are equally unrepairable.

i need help, my bulb seems to be overheating. the main fan died, and i have replaced it with a similar one but there is still way too much heat being generated.

with all the body panels off it seems to work, but if i put any of them back on i guess theres just not enough air flow and it shuts down.

is this something that bulbs do when theyre going bad?

the fans and the color wheel are all spinning normally, and up to the point where it shuts down the image is fine.

anyone have any ideas? please help.

the main fan died, and i have replaced it with a similar one but there is still way too much heat being generated...

How similar? Even a small decrease in flow would make a tremendous difference. What about your filters?

How similar? Even a small decrease in flow would make a tremendous difference. What about your filters?

filters were a bit dusty, but still had air flow. I've cleaned them out now.

the fan was as close as i could get it since i couldnt find some specs for the stock fan.

i ended up using this fan: http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=68K1211

which claims 34.6 CFM

Hello Gentlemen. I appeal to your experience with the 4805 and my ignorance, because I may have more than one problem and I'd like your heads. I searched the threads, but didn't see my complaint.

setup:
xbox 360
Denon 2805
Infocus 4805

Recently, while watching Matrix Revolutions, many of the black colors were coming across green. This happened near the end of the movie. Entire system was working well. I had recently tried changing xbox display output to 720 just to see if there was a difference. Changing it back to 480 did not seem to help.
I found an xbox reset method of holding Y & R trigger to reset the display settings, and this seemed to be a temporary fix, but the colors eventually degraded to green. Since this was such a dark movie, it was very troublesome.
That was a few days ago.
A day after this, playing Halo2 did not have the green problem, nor did xbox dashboard...making me think it was a PJ problem? or the way that movie was encoded? (first time watching on that machine)...however, today, the xbox dashboard was green, shooting holes in my theory. When I switched source to tv or wii, the PJ seemed to work as normal. Multiple attempts at resetting the xbox only led to me not getting ANY video signal from the xbox. (optical audio was normal).
I spent some time looking around the PJ menus to make sure nothing was wrong, and the PJ hung. The only other time a hang happened was when the green first appeared and I was doing some resets of the components trying to find the problem. I tried soft and hard powerdowns (soft didn't work). I thought I waited long enough for the bulb to cool before turning power back on, but I no longer can get the PJ to display light. I had just checked the lamp...it had around 900 hours. Does this sound like a dead bulb? When I power on PJ, the LED lights green, and it beeps as normal startup sound, but there is no light from the lens. Remote doesn't seem to be able to turn it off from this stage. (I usually do hard powerdown). How do I diagnose if the bulb is the PJ problem?


Back to the Xbox-- now I can't get ANY image off the 360. I took the console out of my media rack and plugged it into an older tv and no signal. I am now thinking that it is clearly the problem and I'm kicking myself in the pants for not trying that before messing with my PJ. Now I'm afraid that both pieces are cooked!

Thanks in advance for your advice!


rich

Exactly, they sold them and moved on with no thought (or need) for support.

The same thing applies to the lamp/ballast combination. Economy of scale allows a product to be built and sold affordably but not repaired.

That's why the 4805 was $1000 not $5000. It is a pretty amazing product for the price. I bought mine knowing that it was unrepairable technology. That's why I will not buy a Plasma or LCD panel. Those $5000 - $10,000 Plasmas are equally unrepairable.

Yes, but some of these problems seem fairly inexpensive (R&D, and mfr) to resolve and keep it's low price point. If I owned Infocus, I think it would've been a smart business move to acknowledge an obviously flawed design (specifically talking light tube here) and offered free repairs with a permanent solution. I am VERY surprised that I am once again experiencing light tube issues after having been sent in for repair. Sorry, but I will NEVER buy an Infocus product again, just knowing that they simply threw another flawed part into my PJ and called it a "repair". :mad:

I honestly don't think it would've taken much effort to come up with a one-piece light tube design.

Hello Gentlemen. I appeal to your experience with the 4805 and my ignorance, because I may have more than one problem and I'd like your heads. I searched the threads, but didn't see my complaint.

setup:
xbox 360
Denon 2805
Infocus 4805

Recently, while watching Matrix Revolutions, many of the black colors were coming across green. This happened near the end of the movie. Entire system was working well. I had recently tried changing xbox display output to 720 just to see if there was a difference. Changing it back to 480 did not seem to help.
I found an xbox reset method of holding Y & R trigger to reset the display settings, and this seemed to be a temporary fix, but the colors eventually degraded to green. Since this was such a dark movie, it was very troublesome.
That was a few days ago.
A day after this, playing Halo2 did not have the green problem, nor did xbox dashboard...making me think it was a PJ problem? or the way that movie was encoded? (first time watching on that machine)...however, today, the xbox dashboard was green, shooting holes in my theory. When I switched source to tv or wii, the PJ seemed to work as normal. Multiple attempts at resetting the xbox only led to me not getting ANY video signal from the xbox. (optical audio was normal).
I spent some time looking around the PJ menus to make sure nothing was wrong, and the PJ hung. The only other time a hang happened was when the green first appeared and I was doing some resets of the components trying to find the problem. I tried soft and hard powerdowns (soft didn't work). I thought I waited long enough for the bulb to cool before turning power back on, but I no longer can get the PJ to display light. I had just checked the lamp...it had around 900 hours. Does this sound like a dead bulb? When I power on PJ, the LED lights green, and it beeps as normal startup sound, but there is no light from the lens. Remote doesn't seem to be able to turn it off from this stage. (I usually do hard powerdown). How do I diagnose if the bulb is the PJ problem?


Back to the Xbox-- now I can't get ANY image off the 360. I took the console out of my media rack and plugged it into an older tv and no signal. I am now thinking that it is clearly the problem and I'm kicking myself in the pants for not trying that before messing with my PJ. Now I'm afraid that both pieces are cooked!

Thanks in advance for your advice!


rich

Sounds like a bad cable. Try replacing your 360 cable. If you have a regular dvd player, try hooking it to the 4805 via component and see if it looks fine to verify that the problem is somewhere in the chain with your 360.

Hi
Would anybody happen to know the part number for the 4805 colour wheel, I've had no luck so far in hunting one down but I still live in hope that I can resurrect the poor wee beastie and I think if I knew the part number I can enlist some help from people I know who travel.
Having the part number saves me and them having to explain the ins and outs of the ducks whatsie.
Regards .
Gary

Sounds like a bad cable. Try replacing your 360 cable. If you have a regular dvd player, try hooking it to the 4805 via component and see if it looks fine to verify that the problem is somewhere in the chain with your 360.
Ja Phule, thanks for the reply.

Perhaps I wasn't very clear in my problem set. I currently have no light output from the PJ. If I switch it on, no splash screen, nothing. There was a time, before that hang, that I could switch to another component source (wii) and the PJ image looked good. However the PJ hung...probably I was in a menu and switching sources which I learned from this website (maybe from your FAQ) that this was a bad idea. But, I learned that too late....In order to fix the hung projector, I switched it off, and then back on. I thought I waited long enough for the lamp to cool, but now when I turn on the infocus, there's no light whatsoever.

Meanwhile I plugged the xbox into an older tv using the composite cable (it came with an component/optical/composite/RCA stereo cable, and I get no signal output from the xbox360 at all.

I think I have two problems....
I am fearful that I damaged the projector while I was cycling the power?
I think that the 360 may indeed have a cable or possibly a hardware failure....does it make sense that cable would just go bad? It's the OEM cable.

Ja Phule, thanks for the reply.

Perhaps I wasn't very clear in my problem set. I currently have no light output from the PJ. If I switch it on, no splash screen, nothing. There was a time, before that hang, that I could switch to another component source (wii) and the PJ image looked good. However the PJ hung...probably I was in a menu and switching sources which I learned from this website (maybe from your FAQ) that this was a bad idea. But, I learned that too late....In order to fix the hung projector, I switched it off, and then back on. I thought I waited long enough for the lamp to cool, but now when I turn on the infocus, there's no light whatsoever.

Meanwhile I plugged the xbox into an older tv using the composite cable (it came with an component/optical/composite/RCA stereo cable, and I get no signal output from the xbox360 at all.

I think I have two problems....
I am fearful that I damaged the projector while I was cycling the power?
I think that the 360 may indeed have a cable or possibly a hardware failure....does it make sense that cable would just go bad? It's the OEM cable.

Try reseating the bulb on the 4805. Unplug it and take it out (and see if you notice any damage to the bulb while you are at it). and then put it back in again.

With the 360, if you are using composite, make sure you use the switch on the 360 cable and set it to regular SDTV and not HDTV.

Thanks, Ja Phule,

yep...already checked the 360 cable problem, that's not it. I talked with customer support and will mail it in for a repair. It's under warranty, thankfully.

I'll take down the PJ. It's mounted with a mod of the MonkeyMan mount and check out the lamp. I have not disassembled it previously. Can you see if the filament is broken like in a regular lightbulb if it's burned out? (I mean, is it easy to see if the bulb is damaged?)

I wasn't planning on upgrading to HD, yet...but if I need a new bulb....I wonder if it's worth it. Perhaps I should look for a new PJ.

The lamp is an 'arc' lamp ... there is no filament.

OK, I was able to do some more testing. Using the vga to M1 cable that came with the projector everything is fine. In fact while testing I had only a crt monitor connected I was able to get the latest nVidia drivers loaded while before I could only get 84.21 drivers loaded. I also updated the firmware on the 4805 to the latest.
Now for some reason I can't get the DVI to M1 cable to sync at all. It just acts like nothing is even connected.
Does this mean there is a problem with the cable? Perhaps a problem with the M1 port.
Any help you guys could offer would be really appreciated!

I finally sent this thing out to be fixed. I had an extended warranty from Circuit City. They sent me a box with a label, out for 10 days. Returned with a new M1 port. Problem resolved. Good customer service except they sent me someone else's remote. It looks like it might be from an X1 or an older model. I am sure that I can get it swapped but what a bummer. Otherwise, glad to have it back and working.

judsonp

Not to bum you out, but:

If you read through this mammoth thread and the first one, you will find that several people have had their M1 ports crap out.

And what sucks is that IF will not hook up a computer, they simply test the port with some meter or instrument. So they will send it back saying it's fine when it's really not.

I hope this is not the case.

so how much air should the fan be moving? is 34 cfm not enough? would 44 be enough or do i need to go higher?

I am looking to buy an Infocus 4805. Just want to have a spare PJ especially when I travel. PM me if you know of someone selling one at a reasonable price. Or I can possibly trade my IN72 for one. The 4805 has built in speakers if someone was wondering why I would trade. Plus I just purchased a Mits HD1000.

Do you still love your 4805? I do, and now that HD football is back again, I even love it more! Now, forget sidestepping to an IN72. Why, well the 4805 is better! :D

And most importantly, you can still BUY new ones from CC for Ah, well lets just say cheap. Almost dropped the price, but it is good.

Cheers, while I go watch Buddy_Z. :)

PS> An extended 4 year warranty for 65. That would be a good deal also.

I am looking to buy an Infocus 4805. Just want to have a spare PJ especially when I travel. PM me if you know of someone selling one at a reasonable price. Or I can possibly trade my IN72 for one. The 4805 has built in speakers if someone was wondering why I would trade. Plus I just purchased a Mits HD1000.

Did you check CC?

PS> An extended 4 year warranty for 65. That would be a good deal also.

Includes one bulb replacement as well. :cool:

Includes one bulb replacement as well. :cool:

Now, that has to be the deal of the decade! :cool:

And it appears to be sold out already...... <sigh>

-W

Well, as my luck has it, I set up my 4805 in newly built HT room, and as soon as I move the PJ (tilt) to center the picture on the screen (I am still calibrating and getting everything nice and square) the PJ resets itself! Is this a known issue of sorts?

I actually looked in the hour counter, and now it says '1' , when I know I have about 500 hours accumulated. I wonder if the bulb is not seated correctly, and causing a disconnect upon slight movements... I will check that once the bulb cools off.

If anyone has any other ideas please shoot. This one issue is going to drive me nuts I know it. WHAT TIMING!!!!

Now, that has to be the deal of the decade! :cool:

I would pick another 4805 immediately if I was guranteed that the light tube was re-designed, ESPECIALLY with this crazy deal... (No buy) :( This really sucks, because the 4805 has so many great things going for it.

Well, as my luck has it, I set up my 4805 in newly built HT room, and as soon as I move the PJ (tilt) to center the picture on the screen (I am still calibrating and getting everything nice and square) the PJ resets itself! Is this a known issue of sorts?

I actually looked in the hour counter, and now it says '1' , when I know I have about 500 hours accumulated. I wonder if the bulb is not seated correctly, and causing a disconnect upon slight movements... I will check that once the bulb cools off.

If anyone has any other ideas please shoot. This one issue is going to drive me nuts I know it. WHAT TIMING!!!!

Not sure about the resets, but my 4805 probably reset it's counter at least 3 times randomly.

Looks like my issue was a fulty power cable. I had purchased a nice 6 inch cable to connect to the ceiling socket.

Not sure about the resets, but my 4805 probably reset it's counter at least 3 times randomly.

Maybe that's what accounts for all the 4805 units on eBay with "only" 50 hours! ;)

Hi Everyone

I have the 4805 and I am getting ready to do the next upgrade of my system, HDTV. I have been all SD (via s-video) to this point for tv. I do have a HTPC with a DVI cable to the projector. I love the output from this.

Now I am getting an HD DVR from Directtv. It is the HR-20 and has HDMI outputs. My audio receiver is all analog video so I can not use it for a switch.

My question is this: How do I switch the two devices into the projector? As stated above, one is HDMI and the other DVI. I will also want to hook up a HDTV as a second output as well. So I need at least 2 inputs and 2 outputs. I nice bonus would be a composite output on the box to go to a small kitchen tv. I know I can get that output from the DVR but it would be nice to have the computer go to the kitchen tv as well.

To farther complicate things, at some point I would like to wire a new kitchen tv HDMI as well. That would be 3 outputs.

I am thinking that going full HDMI is the way to go then convert the cables from DVI to HDMI for the computer and projector. Any thoughts?

Any switch boxes that can do all this?

I hope this makes sense to you guys.

Thx

I think DVI switches are getting rarer and rarer as HDMI takes hold, and most of your components are already HDMI, so you're definitely looking at an HDMI switch.

As for the HTPC with DVI output and the 4805 with DVI input... That's a simple matter of a Male DVI->Male HDMI cable from the HTPC into the HDMI switcher, and then a Male HDMI->Female DVI adapter out of the HDMI switcher into the existing DVI cable to your 4805. The rest of your cables can all be HDMI at both ends.

Has anyone compared DVI and component using HD-DVDs?
I was trying DVE and in the resolution tests I can see the "noise" mentioned in the instruction when using DVI but when using the Component I dont get that noise.
On the other hand, it seems component resolutions is rolling off sooner as small lines tend to blend so that could be why it doesnt suffer from the noise issue. Kind of cheating I guess.
Also, I notice a more seamless color production with DVI with a bit more banding when switching to component.
Any opinions?

I think DVI switches are getting rarer and rarer as HDMI takes hold, and most of your components are already HDMI, so you're definitely looking at an HDMI switch.

As for the HTPC with DVI output and the 4805 with DVI input... That's a simple matter of a Male DVI->Male HDMI cable from the HTPC into the HDMI switcher, and then a Male HDMI->Female DVI adapter out of the HDMI switcher into the existing DVI cable to your 4805. The rest of your cables can all be HDMI at both ends.

Thx for the reply. That is what I was kind of thinking. Now what can I do to get 2 tv's hooked up to the output from the switch and does anyone make a box to take the digital video siginal and make it composet?

Thx again

Thx for the reply. That is what I was kind of thinking. Now what can I do to get 2 tv's hooked up to the output from the switch and does anyone make a box to take the digital video siginal and make it composet?

Thx againSeems to me this ought to do the job...

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=3728&seq=1&format=2

...does anyone make a box to take the digital video siginal and make it composet?

Composite? :eek: Good gawd, WHY? :confused:

... Now what can I do to get 2 tv's hooked up to the output from the switch and does anyone make a box to take the digital video siginal and make it composet?

Thx againYou're probably only going to accomplish this if the HR-20 can output analog (composite/S-Video) simultaneously with digital (HDMI).

They make VGA to Composite/S-Video transcoders but I have not seen one for DVI yet. You would need to convert the DVI video (HDMI -> DVI) and use L/R audio. The HDMI audio would have to be converted also otherwise. VGA, being analog, seems much easier to convert than DVI would be.

Most boxes will not offer simultaneous analog/digital outputs to prevent/limit copying or distribution.

Composite? :eek: Good gawd, WHY? :confused:

I know, I know, the only reason I want this is so that I can feed other TV's in the house with the output from my HTPC. Not the best but good enough for the small kitchen tv.

That is where the big problem is coming from. I feed 4 tv's and 1 projector from the enterainment area. only one thing can be displayed but any tv in the house can view the source. Right now the source is only my Direct TV DVR but I would like to include the HTPC at some point. everything outside of the living room is all composite cables coming out of an Rat Shack video amp. Works pretty good.

So as I buy new tv's with HD I need HDMI and it looks like sending all these from one source is going to be much harder.

Getting a new HD DVR and will be hooking it up to the 4805. I was assuming that I would set the output to 480P and be on my way. Now I was thinking of setting up a new HDTV in the bedroom and hooking that up by HDMI as well.

So then what do I set the resolution to for this set up? Would I just keep the output at 480P for both TV's?

Thx

Getting a new HD DVR and will be hooking it up to the 4805. I was assuming that I would set the output to 480P and be on my way.FWIW - The 4805 will handle anything up to 1080i. Personally I send it 720p.

FWIW - The 4805 will handle anything up to 1080i. Personally I send it 720p.



I was thinking that pixel mapping was the way to go so 480P would be the setting but as I think about it more something has to do the converting to the display resolution so I would guess it would depend on which device does a better job of the converstion?

I have tried higher resolutions with the HTPC and pixel mapping was by far much clearer on the 4805.

Thx for the reply

Getting a new HD DVR...thinking of setting up a new HDTV...

And apparently another TV and another, and yet another...all while trying to figure a way to send a signal all over the house again and again with only one source and (gasp! :eek:) composite cables.

For the HD box, absolutely send 720p...a million 4805 owners can't be wrong!

For the HTPC, send a 1:1 pixel-mapped image.

I thought the 4805 worked better with 1080i...must check again.

FWIW - The 4805 will handle anything up to 1080i. Personally I send it 720p.

The 4805 accepts a 1080P source as well.;)

scottwood2,

You can save yourself a lot of trouble by going with component for HD instead of HDMI/DVI. Component gives pretty much an identical picture to HDMI/DVI in most cases (better in some cases). Most HD boxes will output HD over component and SD over composite/svideo simultaneously. You can also find component switches and multi-output amplifiers at a price cheaper than dvi/hdmi ones.

I would also recommend setting the HD output to the 4805 to be 720p or 1080i. Remember that 480p = 720x480, while the native resolution of the 4805 is 854x480. You'll maximize the use of the 4805's resolution with 720p and 1080i.

Not too sure about this. As far as I know, all upvonceting devices (i.e., upconverting 480->1080 DVD players) will only perform upconversion over HDMI or DVI. No upconversion over component.
And although I have never tried it, I have read numerous posts confirming that the image of an upconverted DVD looks better than regular 480p.

scottwood2,

You can save yourself a lot of trouble by going with component for HD instead of HDMI/DVI. Component gives pretty much an identical picture to HDMI/DVI in most cases (better in some cases).

Wow. Questioning Ja Phule on the 4805 thread. Now that's funny! :D

I partially agree with Ja Phule on this one. The component input seems to give almost the same quality as the DVI except in two areas. The color is a bit better using DVI but DVI , at least using the HD-DVD players and Comcast HD box, have some annoying artifacts that normally make me use component instead.
Unfortunately as mentioned, the HD-DVD players for example, wont do upconversion over component but I am not that impress with the upconversion either...I use to do it with my HTPC but that involved LOTS of processing of noise, and sharpness to make it worth it....

I was thinking more on the lines of component for HD content. Upconversion really depends on on the scaling/processing of the device vs the scaling/processing of the display.

Ja Phule is absolutely right - I cannot tell any difference btw DVI and component for HD - and if you can, set the STB to native passthrough and let the 4805 do the scaling.

Btw, what's up Ja Phule? Good to see you still lurking around. Still using the 4805?

Ja Phule is absolutely right - I cannot tell any difference btw DVI and component for HD - and if you can, set the STB to native passthrough and let the 4805 do the scaling.

Btw, what's up Ja Phule? Good to see you still lurking around. Still using the 4805?

Unfortunately, I had to let go of the 4805 a month ago. I just moved and there was no room for the 4805. :(

But that hasn't stopped me from still checking this thread regularly. :)

Sup guys....good to see all timers around. :-)
There IS a difference between DVI and Component, easiest way to tell is try DVE. As I said, I prefer component most of the time because of the DVI artifacts I am getting. I will try to capture a video to show those weird artifacts.
Regards

this projector has got some serious staying power, i bought a z4 two years ago and was considering this one. Can you still buy them? I was thniking of getting one for my bedroom.

WOW! Old Home Day. I just decided to keep mine for a 2nd lamplife..... :)

-W

this projector has got some serious staying power, i bought a z4 two years ago and was considering this one. Can you still buy them? I was thniking of getting one for my bedroom.

You just missed the deal at CC. Probably only eBay now.

I haven't followed this thread for awhile, but put me in the "me too" camp with the light tube issue. Let's see, first it was the dust blobs, then the awful experience of dealing with Infocus support for the color wheel buzzsaw, and now this. It's not bad so far, but as I get more and more annoyed with the imperfection I'm thinking the unthinkable - trying another DIY repair.

I was digging around and I only found a couple of posts detailing repair success - one gluing the existing tube back together and another creating a new one from hard drive platters. Is that it, or are more DIY'ers fixing this themselves?

...Is that it, or are more DIY'ers fixing this themselves?

That's pretty much it for instructional posts on the light tunnel, as there aren't that many that have failed, and most people have long since moved on to the IN72 or another projector here on AVS. What with the plethora of phenomenal deals that have been around in the past year, it's been a buyers paradise, with most upgrading somewhere between making a profit or next to nothing.

You just missed the deal at CC. Probably only eBay now.I've got a year and a half to go on my CC warranty and worry that my free replacement bulb might not be available when my original bulb that WILL NOT DIE (4500+ hours) finally gives out. Don't you think that chasing deals on this wonderful classic is a dead end when good 720p projectors can be had under $1K?

Don't you think that chasing deals on this wonderful classic is a dead end when good 720p projectors can be had under $1K?

Yes..I just sold mine for a 720p

Could anone tell me about the X-1 bulb mod, where you can use a bulb from the X-1 in the 4805. I have a bulb from an X1 with only 70 (genuine!) hours on it, and was wondering if I could swap it out for the dimming bulb on my 4805. Using search functions, I could only find reference to someone who was going to do it, but no reference as to how to do it. Thanks.

Could anone tell me about the X-1 bulb mod, where you can use a bulb from the X-1 in the 4805. I have a bulb from an X1 with only 70 (genuine!) hours on it, and was wondering if I could swap it out for the dimming bulb on my 4805. Using search functions, I could only find reference to someone who was going to do it, but no reference as to how to do it. Thanks.

I asked the same thing a few weeks ago... maybe with 2 of us asking, someone will remember. I think it involved just changing the connector on the lamp housing where it plugs into the PJ.

-W

I've got a year and a half to go on my CC warranty and worry that my free replacement bulb might not be available when my original bulb that WILL NOT DIE (4500+ hours) finally gives out. Don't you think that chasing deals on this wonderful classic is a dead end when good 720p projectors can be had under $1K?

Ummm, no? You've got a warantee good for another bulb on your unit, and you'd abandon that?* For what??? The craptacular HD70 that can't ever be calibrated? The Acer that seemingly eats bulbs like candy and has HDMI handshake issues galore? No HDMI = deal killer. Besides, I'd never, ever trade color and contrast for a tiny bump in resolution at any price. :confused:

When we finally get to a decent unit, like a Mitsu, we've completely doubled the price of the CC deal I mentioned on the 4805 with no chasing involved, simply mentioned in my post. Granted, that deal was likely the very last of these units, at least from a retailer...so yes, I can concede that it may be a dead end to some degree. :( But to many, the term "budget projector" is for those on a strict budget or first-time buyers, and a mere $450 sounds a whole lot easier to swallow than $1000.

*FWIW, Sponge, maybe you could go back and read your warantee again. I seem to recall that the CC Advantage Plan states that if they cannot find the part for you, they must supply you with whatever is available at the current time. (Read: New projector for you! :)) Or, if you really, really want that spare bulb before they're all gone, simply use the pj as a night/day light, 24/7.

Lamp Doesn't Strike ?

Well, I finally had an opportunity today to take down my 4805 and open the lamp housing. I took it out and then re-seated it, and tried again, no apparent difference.

Here are my symptoms, maybe someone can help me with diagnosis:
When I power on the unit, the green led turns on, and I hear the familiar beep.
I do not hear the fan spinning, and I do no have any light output.
When I visualized the lamp, nothing looks broken, although there is some scorching/soot marking on the outer surface of the plastic guard of the lamp unit. There was a small amt of dust on the filter screen by the lamp.
I bought the unit refurbed almost 3 yrs ago off woot! for $800 and when I looked recently I saw the lamp life was around 900 hours, unless I had a random reset (I didn't check lamp life often).

Can anyone give me some ideas on how to proceed? I guess I missed the circuit city deal last week. Halo3 comes out in a couple of days, and I really am going to want an HD projector if I can't fix my 4805 soon.

Yes..I just sold mine for a 720p

Any suggestions for a good 720p replacement for my light-tubing 4805?

So sad...

Any suggestions for a good 720p replacement for my light-tubing 4805?

I really am going to want an HD projector if I can't fix my 4805 soon.

The Mitsubishi HD1500U (or even a HD1000U) would be a good replacement for both of you. The Optoma HD70 and the Acer PH530 are NOT suitable replacements for those that have previously owned the 4805/IN72.

Unfortunately, I had to let go of the 4805 a month ago. I just moved and there was no room for the 4805. :(

But that hasn't stopped me from still checking this thread regularly. :)

Huh? What? The world is coming to an end!
THe Sky is falling, we're doomed!!!!!!!!

OK, u must have went for a shroter throw PJ becasue of room size. I'm in shock. I can't believe u gave up a BIG screen. :(

What about XBMC?

PS. ur program works perfectly. Thanks

Interesting! Briefly, why not the Optoma?

The Mitsubishi HD1500U (or even a HD1000U) would be a good replacement for both of you. The Optoma HD70 and the Acer PH530 are NOT suitable replacements for those that have previously owned the 4805/IN72.

Huh? What? The world is coming to an end!
THe Sky is falling, we're doomed!!!!!!!!

OK, u must have went for a shroter throw PJ becasue of room size. I'm in shock. I can't believe u gave up a BIG screen. :(

What about XBMC?

PS. ur program works perfectly. Thanks

No projector for me for now... I'll look into another one once I get a bigger place.

I'm loving the xephyr (http://www.xboxmediacenter.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26995)skin for xbmc.

Interesting! Briefly, why not the Optoma?

Briefly? When you get hundreds of people on a twek thread and they all can't come up with a truly decent calibrated image, well...I'm going to leave it at that to stay brief. ;)

The Mitsubishi HD1500U (or even a HD1000U) would be a good replacement for both of you. The Optoma HD70 and the Acer PH530 are NOT suitable replacements for those that have previously owned the 4805/IN72.

Thanks Spyder. I can't find any of the HD1500Us, but I have come across the HC1500 and the HD100U...the search continues.

Thanks Spyder. I can't find any of the HD1500Us, but I have come across the HC1500 and the HD100U...the search continues.

HD or HC prefix units are essentially the same thing, if I remember correctly.

Hey Guys I've been reading through this thread and I hate to say my projector crapped out and I didn't buy an extended warranty :mad: From time to time its been making some strange sounds. I took the bulb out last night for normal cleaning of the dust filter while it was completely cool. Then the unit's fan didn't sound right from the get go- then the projector turned itself off with the 3 red blinks. I checked the door, it was shut fine. I opened the bulb door again pulled it out and tried again. Same thing. Then noticed the main fan didn't spin freely so I opened it up following the instructions here.

The main fan was hitting the housing like its warped, which looks like other members have experienced. The color wheel was replaced less then 6 months ago by Infocus, but now the unit's outta warranty.

I think its time to move to another projector, I've always wanted a true HD projector, one thats QUIETER.

Not to pollute this thread but I'm thinking about the Sharp DT-500.... in anycase, - anybody interested in a SP4805 for parts or a project-, with a fairly new color wheel and a bulb with about 1100 hours (estimate from memory). Its got the light tunnel issue on the right side (you don't see it if you use 4:3 material unstretched) and a broken main fan and turns itself off (which may or may not be related to the fan issue). :D

I have an sp4905 and I have been very pleased with its performance from the xbox 360, but not its reliability. This is my 3rd unit, I had the first two replaced by infocus, one for a faulty color wheel and the other for some sort of loud noise.

Now I am on my third SP4805 and having yet another problem, this time there is some sort of flickering during bright screens, im sure it flickers on dark screens as well, but it is barley noticable. The flicker is pretty intense at times and fades in and out roughly every 15-30 minutes and last for aprox 30 min. Now I have tried all the firmware versions to no avail, and have also tried to turn it on high power mode, but this just intesifies the issue.

I have come to the conclusion that I may have a faulty bulb, but I want to be certain before I blow another $350 on a replacement, only to find out that it was a faulty projector and not the bulb.

Would anyone be able to help on this one, the bulb only has 600 Hours on it, and I have no warranty left :(

Thank you in advance

K

Try running the PJ on High Power (or whatever it's called) for a few minutes, then changing it back to Low Power. That usually does the trick.

-Dan

Do you mean, take the checkmark off low paower mode, becasue I tried that and it just makes the image brighter and in turn the flicker is more noticable.

Do you mean, take the checkmark off low paower mode, becasue I tried that and it just makes the image brighter and in turn the flicker is more noticable.

Yes that's what I mean. It sounds like you may have a different issue, because when I switch to high power the flicker stops immediately. If I switch back to low power too quickly, sometimes the flicker is still there and I have to put it back on high power for a while longer. But I've never had it flicker in high power mode.

FWIW, the flicker I'm talking about is well known in this forum. So perhaps your situation is different. Anyone else care to comment?

-Dan

QUESTION:

Does anyone know if this projector accept RGB input from it's component.

I want to buy an VGA to component adapter to connect my computer to the projector. However i know that compnent expect Ypbpr not RGB, but BENQ projector support also this.


thanks

Well I'll be leaving this club soon. :(

I just ordered a Marantz VP4001 last night.

My 4805 developed the light tunnel issue a while ago, and I haven't had the time to open it up and attempt a fix. I'll probably do it later and maybe use the 4805 to make an outside drive-in theater on the garage wall for the nieces and nephews to enjoy.

The 4805 was my first, and you never forget your first. :)

Best of luck to the rest of you!

QUESTION:

Does anyone know if this projector accept RGB input from it's component.

I want to buy an VGA to component adapter to connect my computer to the projector. However i know that compnent expect Ypbpr not RGB, but BENQ projector support also this.I'm pretty sure the 4805 supports RGB over Component, because the setup menus have a "color space" option.

I'm removing the following links (spare bulb retailers) from My Favorites, since I just bought another projector. Let me post them here before I let them go.
http://www.provantage.com/infocus-sp-lamp-021~7INFB05R.htm
http://www.onsale.com/shop/detail.aspx?dpno=513405&store=onsale&source=bwbfroogle&adcampaign=email,bwbfroogle&wt.mc_id=bwbfroogle
http://store.raindroptechnology.com/-strse-1181/InFocus-SP-dsh-4805-Replacement-Lamp/Detail.bok
And a link for a whole bunch of ND filters.
http://www.camerafilters.com/pages/nd.aspx

Ok.. I'm about to try the impossible. I got a hold of a new 4805 lamp, sans housing etc. I have to transfer it over. <sigh>

As an extra class ham from WAY back, I'm good with small parts, electronics, and a hot slobbering iron. :D

What am I in for? Anyhing special about not touching the lamp? What to clean it with when done? Etc???

I'll take any clues offered here... I've never tried anyhting quite like this one.

-W

Ok.. I'm about to try the impossible. I got a hold of a new 4805 lamp, sans housing etc. I have to transfer it over. <sigh>



-W

Where did you find a 4805 lamp without the housing?

Ok.. I'm about to try the impossible. I got a hold of a new 4805 lamp, sans housing etc. I have to transfer it over. <sigh>

As an extra class ham from WAY back, I'm good with small parts, electronics, and a hot slobbering iron. :D

What am I in for? Anyhing special about not touching the lamp? What to clean it with when done? Etc???

I'll take any clues offered here... I've never tried anyhting quite like this one.

-W

I remember reading somewhere that you don't want fingerprints on the bulb. Something about the oil from your fingers can cause issues. Have no idea whether it's true or not, but I thought I'd mention it. Good luck!

-Dan

If you do get fingerprints on the bulb somehow, ethanol (4% mix) cleans best.*

*Obviously, you want to wait until it's dry before striking the lamp! :D

Try running the PJ on High Power (or whatever it's called) for a few minutes, then changing it back to Low Power. That usually does the trick.

-Dan

You have to do it for a few hours. Watch a couple of movies with it on high power and it should eliminate the flicker.

I have tried that, but unfortunately it has not helped in my case. I have had it on high power for around 80 Hours. and it still flickers.

I am going to try and get video of the flicker.

arghhh... I am thinking a faulty bulb

So I am sort of thinking of changing to a different projector - I have no problems with my 4805, I just want maybe a HD or a different unit. From what I am reading here, people are saying there is still a market for 4805s - especially one that has no problems and has low (less than 500 hours) on the lamp. True? Where would be a good place to sell it? A fair price range?

sneaky turtle! I see where you are going with this. Against forum rules! :)

So I am sort of thinking of changing to a different projector - I have no problems with my 4805, I just want maybe a HD or a different unit. From what I am reading here, people are saying there is still a market for 4805s - especially one that has no problems and has low (less than 500 hours) on the lamp. True? Where would be a good place to sell it? A fair price range?

the way prices are coming down (720's and 1080's)$300 to $350 ( fleabay )would be a fare price,I to will be selling a IN72 300hrs with a new extra bulb inc .( I have 4 of them but only replacing one right now )
I will probably due better selling them separately then in a package deal.
good luck .


Murphy:)

I actually didn't mean to imply that it was for sale at all. I was just wondering if there was good outlet. I actually am a tech consultant and I bet if I advertise it to my many clients one of them would like it - it's nice to have my own little outlet for selling stuff. However if something ever goes wrong then I have to support it...

I will probably try fleabay if I decide to upgrade. On the fence about the marantz 4001.

I actually didn't mean to imply that it was for sale at all. I was just wondering if there was good outlet. I actually am a tech consultant and I bet if I advertise it to my many clients one of them would like it - it's nice to have my own little outlet for selling stuff. However if something ever goes wrong then I have to support it...

I will probably try fleabay if I decide to upgrade. On the fence about the marantz 4001.

You, Me, and half this board are hoding that VP4001 gun to our heads.It a great pj from the spec's and new owners reviews.


cheers and good luck on your new pj.


Murphy:)

You, Me, and half this board are hoding that VP4001 gun to our heads.It a great pj from the spec's and new owners reviews.


cheers and good luck on your new pj.


Murphy:)

Yeah - I just went down to my theater though and turned on the 4805 and I honestly can't convince myself that there's anything wrong with the picture though.

Yeah - I just went down to my theater though and turned on the 4805 and I honestly can't convince myself that there's anything wrong with the picture though.

If you like the 4805 and do mostly Standard DVD's( little hd) in a decent light controlled room then you should be very happy.( the 4805 is one great 480 pj).
But if you thinking of upgrading to Hd DVD's( I hope the new hd players are $200 or less come Xmass) and your Picky regarding perfect HD TV viewing or like to watch The games during the day with a bit more lumens The 720 HD vp4001 advertises then I would say Fleabay the 4805.

Basically it all comes down to money availability to feed the need.

What have I become.
I can remember staying up late just me and the 4805 while staring at the screen in disbelieve when I first turned her on and witnessed her beautiful performance.
Lately I fell as if I am cheating as I sneak around peaking into different forum rooms while surfing the net talking to strangers regarding the spec's and performance of the new uptown Vp4001. making sure my old girl isn't replace by the first cheap knock of 720.Yet I refuse to spend the money on this new fling but demand better performance and reliability if I start using words like divorce.

I need to go buy my wife some flowers.:eek:

Murphy:)

Actually I rarely watch DVD's - we are 100% HTPC, outputting 1080p to the lcd upstairs and then a macro press flips it to 480x854 to the 4805 downstairs. It would be nice to do 1080p to both but I am not going to spend the bucks right now. About 50% of our watching is HD tv (OTA) and about 40% is avi's (various resolutions) and about 10% DVD. Obviously with the HTPC I can scale it to anything needed, I just go with native on both displays.

I would have to pull out my DVI->M1 cable that goes to the projector and replace with an HDMI. That m1 was such a pain in the ass to get between floors - that's one hesitancy - since they apparently don't make m1 female to hdmi converters.

since they apparently don't make m1 female to hdmi converters.

Try monoprice.com, currently out of stock but they can notify you when available.

Yeah I've been watching them for 16 months for that part...they've never stocked it.

Try http://www.riteav.com ?

Try http://www.riteav.com ?

thanks - that's a good link, but they don't have it.



This is what monoprice says (and has said for a long time) if you ask about the item:

Hello,
PID# 2690 is a new product that we did not have in stock. Unfortunately, there is no current ETA for this item at this moment. I apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused you.



Should you have any question, please feel free to email us.
Thank you for doing business with us.

Regards,

Vince
Monoprice, Inc.
---------------------------------------------------------
Visit our online store at
www.monoprice.com
---------------------------------------------------------

Well, I have spent months building my HT and just finished hooking everything up. Plugged everything in, turned it on and nothing. Only a little gray box in the lower left corner that says "Computer" :mad:. After going through a few hours of trouble shooting and even pulling out another DVD Player and another cable, I gave up and hooked it up with the component video cables. Works fine that way. I even bought a Bravo D1 that had the cap mod already done. I have heard that the M1 input of the 4805 can go out. Does it sound like that is what happened? If so how do I get it fixed? Should I just buy another projector? Thanks for any help!

Sauwill,

What did you originally hook up to the M1 port? Did you try synch threshold adjustment? Was the Bravo on DVI out?

I bought an m1 to DVI adapter that went on first then dvi to hdmi cable to receiver hdmi monitor output. Yes, made sure that DVI was on and even played with the different DVI settings trying to get things to happen. Didn't try the synch threshold adjustment. How do you do that? Thanks for the help.

I would have to pull out my DVI->M1 cable that goes to the projector and replace with an HDMI. That m1 was such a pain in the ass to get between floors - that's one hesitancy - since they apparently don't make m1 female to hdmi converters.I've got a 30ft DVI cable into a DVI->M1 adapter into my 4805. When I went HDMI with my source, I just got a male DVI to male HDMI adapter for the source end of the existing DVI cable. Works great.

I bought an m1 to DVI adapter that went on first then dvi to hdmi cable to receiver hdmi monitor output. Yes, made sure that DVI was on and even played with the different DVI settings trying to get things to happen. Didn't try the synch threshold adjustment. How do you do that? Thanks for the help.

The sync adjustment is made through the settings menu. With all the conversions (M1 to DVI, DVI to HDMI, HDMI from receiver, converting DVI from Bravo) I'm not shocked there's an issue here. Would it be possible to simply hook the M1 to DVI directly from the pj into the Bravo?

I've got a 30ft DVI cable into a DVI->M1 adapter into my 4805. When I went HDMI with my source, I just got a male DVI to male HDMI adapter for the source end of the existing DVI cable. Works great.


That's the opposite of what I'm trying to do. Source isn't changing.

The settings menu on the Bravo or the 4805? Just FYI, I used one of my other DVD players that has an HDMI out and hooked it up directly to the 4805. There was still the conversions HDMI to DVI to M1 but still did the same thing. Thanks again for the help.

The settings menu on the Bravo or the 4805? Just FYI, I used one of my other DVD players that has an HDMI out and hooked it up directly to the 4805. There was still the conversions HDMI to DVI to M1 but still did the same thing. Thanks again for the help.

Settings menu on 4805. You can adjust from 0-100. Zero usually works best for most. I'm thinking the 3 conversions are the issue here. Any way to go DVI (or even HDMI) to M1 directly without the third step?

Direct TV HD reciever hooked to 4805(component cables) w/104" Wilsonart Screen

Could someone give me some baseline settings to improve my direct tv digital display on my 4805?

The HD channels kick ass, but the "local" digital channels suck. I mean really bad. I've tried just about everything that I have read in this forum, but no success. It seems to only effect the "local" channels not the other digital channels offered by DTV.

I live in a "small" market area where the local channels are only offered in digital. I am wondering if small market means crappy digital signals or maybe my installer did not get the local satelite set up properly. My college football season has sucked so far.

aan, I have been keeping notes from the thread about settings and have been using these (also found in this enormous thread);

SP4805 defaults all the way except:

RGB Gains (3) = 58
RGB Offsets (3) = 28.5
White Peaking = 0
Aspect Ratio = Native

Brightness and contrast are both set at 50, not zero.

Another one to add, sych threshold should be set to 0 (zero).

Hope this helps:)

thanks for the info. still no luck.
the problem is the display is blurred and specifically the players are really blurred when there is a wide angle shot of field i.e. like right before the snap of the football

Ive tried the following:

-moving the pj closer to screen,zoomed in completely
-used the bedroom DTV digital receiver (not HD) on the 4805
-minor adjustments to multiple areas like the ones you mentioned
-tried s video
-various ideas posted in this forum

I feel it could be any of the following:

-expectations too high
-sports like football don't display well/ screen too big
-"local" satellite improperly installed
-my limitations both in expertise and visual acuity
-the HD receiver may have a sweet spot? for local channels I have yet to find


I thought I knew enough to get a respectable picture. I picked the 4805 to maximize the viewing with the thought that I could match digital cable in picture quality. The HD has been great with -out of the box- settings. I'm sure everything will improve as I get better at the settings, however, it seems to me that DTV hooked to my 4805 should be better for abc,cbs,nbc,fox than my local mom and pop cable system. I'll keep trying to find the answer.

Sauwill, thanks for your reply.

If HD looks good and SD doesn't, it's likely just a problem with your tv feed. How does it look on your regular sdtv? Do you have another HDTV? If so, how does it look on that? People complain all the time about their non-HD content looking like crap on their digital displays.

I have a 27" sdtv and the picture is sharper using the non HD receiver. I am going to move the pj closer to the screen and try a much smaller screen size maybe 60". However, that defeats the pj's true purpose. Can't afford the LCD I want until after Christmas, so I thought this would be a great alternative for the time being.
I have noticed that when I play around w/the DTV HD receiver's settings the small screen (19" approx. this sort of looks like PIP) that appears in the upper right hand corner appears sharper. This leads me to believe that smaller might be sharper for my situation. If alot of people are disappointed with their tv display I would be part of that crowd. Maybe, I am expecting too much. DVD's look fine and HD looks fine. Digital channels are not bad and local digital channels stinks. I am watching the Florida Auburn game right now. The Espn HD rocks, but the digital ESPN isn't that great at least in my amatuer eye.

aan,

I can't tell from your posts if you are watching your local channels in HD or SD? It's possible you may not be getting the HD signals for your local channels b/c either your antenna isn't good enough or not pointing in the right direction. You can check http://www.antennaweb.org/aw/welcome.aspx to guide you about your antenna set up.

Guys, I'm noticing an issue with my 4805... when watching DVDs, I see several horizontal 'rows' of pixels at the top that are shifted left/right by a few pixels. These rows seems to 'dance' around a little bit too. I played with some of the advanced settings, like Sync Threshold etc, which seem to only change the intensity of the issue, but cannot remove it altogether.

Any idea what this is?

Not sure about Dtv, but dish was great on my 4805. I am now using Comcast cable and although HD content is much better (Sports, movies, etc), SD looks great also. I have my STB set to output 1080i only and I am using the M1 port (hdmi (STB) to DVI/M1). I have it set to strecth SD content also so it fills my 16:9 screen.

Check your DTV STB settings.

...Can't afford the LCD I want until after Christmas, so I thought this would be a great alternative for the time being....

That shiny, new LCD you're pining for is going to show the same terrible picture on those channels (and maybe even look much, much worse) if HD looks good on the 4805.

I have the following setup(s):
-27" sdtv(coax only no AV inputs)and a new 4805(LCD coming after Christmas)
-2 DTV receivers -one is just a digital receiver and the other is a HD receiver
-the local channels are in digital only not HD, the rest of the channels are digital with the exception of about a dozen that are broadcast in HD(espn hd discovery hd, hd movies, are examples, up to 150 HD channels are suppose to come online by the end of the year.)
-i have all cables except the HDMI to DVI(M1)conversion, I got to believe component inputs for digital broadcast should produce a sharp display, but not as good as HDMI/DVI cable
-i also have the satellite HD to coax conversion box from Radio Shack, but I haven't tried that yet, b/c I working with the 4805 right now

I can mix and match the receivers and the display devices by simply unhooking the cables moving them around. B/c I live in a realitively small home now none of my equipment is static except the Wilsonart screen. When I get my LCD it will be on a rolling cart as well so I can move that from room to room as needed.

I was expecting a digital satellite, delivering a digital feed via component cables to my 4805 would throw a sharp 104" digital image. That has not materialized yet. In the past, I had digital cable on a digital TV and that picture was superior to my current setup. (the old digital TV finally gave out so I went with the 4805 until I get the LCD)

I going to try and search the old 4805 thread for info, but my search of the new thread did not really address the sharpness issue using DTV. If JaPhule is correct that alot of people are not happy with the DTV/4805(non HD) broadcast then this must be the limits of the 4805 and/or DTV's abilities. Today I will try other remedies. It may be that my inexperience with PJ's is holding me up or making my expectations too high. I was hoping my problem was simple and I could get help from the experienced individuals who use this forum.

Japhule, if alot of people are disappointed with the DTV/4805 non HD display has anyone given you feedback on how to improve it?

Regardless of my situation, I still feel I am way ahead of the game b/c the people of this forum have done a great job of helping me get my PJ/Screen up and running. Thanks to everyone.

Aan,

The main issue here is your satellite source. I'm assuming your local channels should be available in HD. Your satellite service comes with a digital receiver, but it seems to me that your local channels are still analog. I believe DirecTV doesn't always provide local channels in HD for all markets (which may include your area). I believe DirecTV may provide network channels from other cities for those customers, so that may be an option for you.

Most people have complained about SDTV on their tvs (including lcd and other dlp owners, not just 4805 owners). But nowadays most people can get their local channels in HD and don't bother with local channels in SD.

The 4805 has a faroudja dcdi deinterlacer/scaler, one of the best processing chips out at the time. Try watching your SD channels at 480i so that the 4805 will use the chip to deinterlace and scale the picture. In 480i mode, you will also have options to play around with the picture settings on the 4805.

I think it may be the satellite feed like you suggested. I was told by the installer my transponders were all at 90% are above and would deliver the image I needed for anything I wanted use. The local channels in my small market area are non HD and probably won't be HD by the time I have to move back to civilization. I called DTV and ask them if I could pay extra to have another market's HD sent to me and I was told they couldn't do that due to contract obligations. I will try some more things to fix/tweak my picture and if I discover any improvement I'll post it. I'll break down and cry if a widescreen LCD produces a similiar picture. We'll have to wait and see. I might rent a plasma/LCD for a day and try running my satellite feed through it. This might save me some serious short term scratch if the same problem exists.

Thanks for the help.

SP4805 defaults all the way except:

RGB Gains (3) = 58
RGB Offsets (3) = 28.5
White Peaking = 0
Aspect Ratio = Native


These settings should only be used for the M1 input.

...I'll break down and cry if a widescreen LCD produces a similiar picture...

[Spyder grabs a towel to give to aan.]

Sounds like you need an OTA HD antenna and tuner.

I have Never had a Bad image with my 4805 (Well except for some really crappy source material, garbage in = garbage out). I love it! Now, I have had Dish and Comcast but not Dtv with the 4805. I have only used DVI or hdmi outputs from the various STB's. Like digital in to Digital out. I also had to setup the STB's to output 1080i which the 4805 loves by goinig into the setup menu's. I do not know the limitations of taking a Digital signal (DTV) converting it to Analogue (Component) and then back to Digital (4805). The 4805 would do a great job but not to sure of the STB. I do not think they use quality D to A converters in their inexpensive boxes. Hence, I speak from an all digital experience with the 4805 and it has been wonderful.

These settings should only be used for the M1 input.

Smithfarmer,

These settings were quoted for Barvo D1. Can these be used with any other source (HDTV receiver or cable STB) while using the M1 input?

If yes, it's really nice as one does not have to tinker around too much without a proper (calibration) reference.

I'm sitting here utterly depressed. Its been a graet 500 hours so far and now this. There's been a tiny white square (1 pixel) showing up pretty much in the middle of the screen for some time now. It used to go away after 5 mins or so but now its permanent. I'm out of the warranty period already and am fearing that this is not an easy fix. Like the most of you, I'm not really happy with such an imperfection. What options do I have here? Should I buy a used parts projector and swap something? Should I get it repaired? Should I buy something different? My old X-1 broke during a firmware update, I bought this 4805 Refurbed and now this after only 500hrs. Any help?
Cheers

Smithfarmer,

These settings were quoted for Barvo D1. Can these be used with any other source (HDTV receiver or cable STB) while using the M1 input?

If yes, it's really nice as one does not have to tinker around too much without a proper (calibration) reference.

Those setting should be used for digital inputs (hdmi/dvi) from the m1.

Those setting should be used for digital inputs (hdmi/dvi) from the m1.They do not apply to DVI outputs from a PC, only 'video' sources.

I'm sitting here utterly depressed. Its been a graet 500 hours so far and now this. There's been a tiny white square (1 pixel) showing up pretty much in the middle of the screen for some time now. It used to go away after 5 mins or so but now its permanent. I'm out of the warranty period already and am fearing that this is not an easy fix. Like the most of you, I'm not really happy with such an imperfection. What options do I have here? Should I buy a used parts projector and swap something? Should I get it repaired? Should I buy something different? My old X-1 broke during a firmware update, I bought this 4805 Refurbed and now this after only 500hrs. Any help?
Cheers

There are a number of people on here from time to time who are looking dump their broken machines as well. You can combine PJ's to get things "right" again.

I'm sitting here utterly depressed. Its been a graet 500 hours so far and now this. There's been a tiny white square (1 pixel) showing up pretty much in the middle of the screen for some time now. It used to go away after 5 mins or so but now its permanent. I'm out of the warranty period already and am fearing that this is not an easy fix. Like the most of you, I'm not really happy with such an imperfection. What options do I have here? Should I buy a used parts projector and swap something? Should I get it repaired? Should I buy something different? My old X-1 broke during a firmware update, I bought this 4805 Refurbed and now this after only 500hrs. Any help?
CheersSorry to be the bearer of bad news, but a dead pixel can only result from a bad micro-mirror on the DLP integrated circuit (IC). That's not a part you'll be able to service yourself.

DLP intergrated circuit (IC)? Can this part be removed and replaced? Is it attached to another unit or part? Can I swap it with another one from a functioning projector?
Thanks.

You might have to swap all or most of the light engine, but it's doable.

-W

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but a dead pixel can only result from a bad micro-mirror on the DLP integrated circuit (IC). That's not a part you'll be able to service yourself.Come to think of it, I now recall reading in this thread that the manufacturer of the DLP technology, TI, has a separate lifetime guarantee of no dead pixel on their DLP ICs, above and beyond the warranty of the end-product. It just might be worth a call to InFocus after all.

OK,
So lets say that I had one sp4805 with a great image but a squeeling color wheel, and another sp4805 with a quiet color wheel but a dead pixel. Can I take apart the light engines and combine the good parts from both to make one good light engine? I would like to do this myself ofcourse. Infocus quoted me $1000 to repair the pixel issue. I'd rather eat the bulb than pay that. I'd also rather buy another projector instead if I can't fix it, and sell mine online. Thanks for all the replies by the way.
Cheers

I've had my 4805 for a year now, bought used with it saying about 30 hours on the bulb. I now have 250. Last night when I turned it on only the fan came on, no bulb. I checked for any flashing lights and found none. I turned it off, waited a minute and turned it on again, this time the lamp lit, although it seemed to brighten more slowly.

I was going to check the filter and reseat the bulb tonight. That's the simple solutions I'v found. Is this the way bulbs begin to go? I checked Infocus's site last night and saw they were selling refurb 4805 (backorder or sold out now) cheaper than new bulbs! I've got enough saved for a new bulb, and was wondering if now is the time to sell and buy something else because of this.

Oh, and many thanks to Ja Phule, Spyder, and all the regular posters on the 4805. My family has had lots of fun on friday night movie nights thanks to you guys.

OK,
So lets say that I had one sp4805 with a great image but a squeeling color wheel, and another sp4805 with a quiet color wheel but a dead pixel. Can I take apart the light engines and combine the good parts from both to make one good light engine? I would like to do this myself ofcourse. Infocus quoted me $1000 to repair the pixel issue. I'd rather eat the bulb than pay that. I'd also rather buy another projector instead if I can't fix it, and sell mine online. Thanks for all the replies by the way.
Cheers

Yes, you could do that. The color wheel is it's own part.

Same things has been happening to me. Turn the projector on and the lamp is not striking. It takes anywhere between 5-20 tries to finally get the lamp on. I've got ~1350 hrs on mine and when it finally comes on, it is as bright as ever and looks great so I'm confident the problem is not the bulb itself. It all started about 100 hours after my last filter clean so I don't think it could be that the lamp is not seated.

Coincidently (or perhaps not) it also started about 15 hours after activating a new HDMI source for the first time.

I called IF they told me the IF4805 isn't eligible for any upgrade program and only wanted to sell me a new bulb.


I've had my 4805 for a year now, bought used with it saying about 30 hours on the bulb. I now have 250. Last night when I turned it on only the fan came on, no bulb. I checked for any flashing lights and found none. I turned it off, waited a minute and turned it on again, this time the lamp lit, although it seemed to brighten more slowly.

I was going to check the filter and reseat the bulb tonight. That's the simple solutions I'v found. Is this the way bulbs begin to go? I checked Infocus's site last night and saw they were selling refurb 4805 (backorder or sold out now) cheaper than new bulbs! I've got enough saved for a new bulb, and was wondering if now is the time to sell and buy something else because of this.

Oh, and many thanks to Ja Phule, Spyder, and all the regular posters on the 4805. My family has had lots of fun on friday night movie nights thanks to you guys.

I just wanted to post here to tell about my HD picture with the 4805. I have had HD from DTV for about a week now and the picture is better than I tought it would be. the pic is just awesome to me.

I am very very happy:D:D:D

I've had my 4805 for a year now, bought used with it saying about 30 hours on the bulb. I now have 250. Last night when I turned it on only the fan came on, no bulb. I checked for any flashing lights and found none. I turned it off, waited a minute and turned it on again, this time the lamp lit, although it seemed to brighten more slowly.

I was going to check the filter and reseat the bulb tonight. That's the simple solutions I'v found. Is this the way bulbs begin to go? I checked Infocus's site last night and saw they were selling refurb 4805 (backorder or sold out now) cheaper than new bulbs! I've got enough saved for a new bulb, and was wondering if now is the time to sell and buy something else because of this.

Oh, and many thanks to Ja Phule, Spyder, and all the regular posters on the 4805. My family has had lots of fun on friday night movie nights thanks to you guys.

I'd recommend that if and/or when you (and Redbird) do get the lamp to strike correctly that you let the bulb run on high power mode for at least 6 hours straight.

I'd recommend that if and/or when you (and Redbird) do get the lamp to strike correctly that you let the bulb run on high power mode for at least 6 hours straight.

Tried that a few weeks back. Maybe 4 hours not 6. It didn't make a difference.

When the lamp doesn't strike, the fan starts up in what sounds like high power mode. I can always tell when it going to work because of the sound of the fan when I first hit the switch.

spyder696969, I pulled the lamp and the filter on the fan side was over 1/3 covered in dust. The last I checked was about 100hrs ago and it was still clean. I will run it in high for 6 hrs one evening between now and the weekend.

I'll keep you informed, Redbird, on what happens to mine.

Tried that a few weeks back. Maybe 4 hours not 6. It didn't make a difference.

When the lamp doesn't strike, the fan starts up in what sounds like high power mode. I can always tell when it going to work because of the sound of the fan when I first hit the switch.

Sounds as though the 4805 thinks it's already hot, what with the fans ramping up that fast. Might be time for a thorough cleaning. By this, I mean pulling the unit apart and doing a full clean.

spyder696969, I pulled the lamp and the filter on the fan side was over 1/3 covered in dust. The last I checked was about 100hrs ago and it was still clean. I will run it in high for 6 hrs one evening between now and the weekend.

I'll keep you informed, Redbird, on what happens to mine.

You shouldn't have that much dust in a normal application in only 100 hours. Full clean recommended, as above.

I have recently upgraded to a Toshiba HD-A2 from a Denon 1600 (that died sadly). I have been having a problem with some DVD's not filling my screen properly. I have a 16:9 screen and the image is not filling it horizontally or vertically regardless of the aspect setting I use in my projector (4805). This is not a problem with the aspect ratio of the source material (I know how a 4:3 vs. 16:9 vs. 2.35:1 source should look). I am using the HDMI output of the HD-A2. I previously used component output of the Denon 1600 and also the component output of the HD-A2 with no problems. This has occured on my DVD of "The Mask" and "The Basketball Diaries"; I haven't noticed it on any thing else yet. How can this problem be resolved? Any imput would be appreciated.

I have recently upgraded to a Toshiba HD-A2 from a Denon 1600 (that died sadly). I have been having a problem with some DVD's not filling my screen properly. I have a 16:9 screen and the image is not filling it horizontally or vertically regardless of the aspect setting I use in my projector (4805). This is not a problem with the aspect ratio of the source material (I know how a 4:3 vs. 16:9 vs. 2.35:1 source should look). I am using the HDMI output of the HD-A2. I previously used component output of the Denon 1600 and also the component output of the HD-A2 with no problems. This has occured on my DVD of "The Mask" and "The Basketball Diaries"; I haven't noticed it on any thing else yet. How can this problem be resolved? Any imput would be appreciated.Typically, you have to configure your DVD player and tell it whether your display has a 4:3 or 16:9 aspect ratio. I suspect it defaults to the former and you haven't changed it.

If that's not it, then maybe it assumes displays with 480 lines of resolution (like the 4805) are always 4:3. WSVGA (854x480) is pretty rare.

They do not apply to DVI outputs from a PC, only 'video' sources.


As I recall.... they DO apply to a PC unless you're using overlay.
Can someone clarify???

-W

As I recall.... they DO apply to a PC unless you're using overlay.
Can someone clarify???I repeat:"They do not apply to DVI outputs from a PC, only 'video' sources."A PC uses the range 0-255. A video source is 16-235.

I repeat:"They do not apply to DVI outputs from a PC, only 'video' sources."A PC uses the range 0-255. A video source is 16-235.

I know... but I recall a long discussion about XXX (forgot term) vs Overlay having bearing on this. (I use PowerDVD in overlay so I'm immune)

I'm sure someone will recall this.... I hate to have to go hunting it down.

-W

Clams Canino

What's up dude? Your memory serves you well. It's vmr9 and overlay that you are thinking of.

If overlay, then RGB gains/offsets stay at 50.
If vmr9, then you will want to adjust your RGB gains/offsets to 58/28.5.

**As a side note, there have been some NVidia drivers (not sure about ATI) that have mucked this all up - so you have to actually check with DVE to see exactly what the drivers are doing with the video levels.

Heh.... I'm still loving my 4805. Good to see you're still around.
I knew I remembered something about vmr9 vs overlay..... thanks for the follow up! Glad to see you still read this forum. :D

-W

So my wife decided that she wanted to watch the baseball playoffs this year. Cool I said but why don't you order a HD digital cable box and we'll watch it through the 4805. So she ordered it.

We don't watch TV much at all...hardly ever. I've had the 4805 for over three years now and I'll bet I haven't watched an hour of TV through it. We just use it for DVD's.

The guy from Time Warner installs the box and I hook the 4805 to the cable box via component and set the aspect ratio to native on the 4805. I couldn't believe what a fabulous picture that thing was throwing. I had to go next door to get my neighbor to see this. He just stood there staring at the screen and said nothing. Then my buddy stopped over and all he could say was, "I'm sold." I loved it.

I'm thinking about getting a HD DVD player. Will I see a dramatic difference in picture quality going to a HD DVD player?

TIA

I have recently upgraded to a Toshiba HD-A2 from a Denon 1600 (that died sadly). I have been having a problem with some DVD's not filling my screen properly. I have a 16:9 screen and the image is not filling it horizontally or vertically regardless of the aspect setting I use in my projector (4805). This is not a problem with the aspect ratio of the source material (I know how a 4:3 vs. 16:9 vs. 2.35:1 source should look). I am using the HDMI output of the HD-A2. I previously used component output of the Denon 1600 and also the component output of the HD-A2 with no problems. This has occured on my DVD of "The Mask" and "The Basketball Diaries"; I haven't noticed it on any thing else yet. How can this problem be resolved? Any imput would be appreciated.

Sounds like an issue with the Toshiba A2 and non-anamorphic widescreen movies. I believe that player will pillarbox 4:3 (and non-anamorphic) dvds without giving you the option to zoom in from the player unfortunately.

So my wife decided that she wanted to watch the baseball playoffs this year. Cool I said but why don't you order a HD digital cable box and we'll watch it through the 4805. So she ordered it.

We don't watch TV much at all...hardly ever. I've had the 4805 for over three years now and I'll bet I haven't watched an hour of TV through it. We just use it for DVD's.

The guy from Time Warner installs the box and I hook the 4805 to the cable box via component and set the aspect ratio to native on the 4805. I couldn't believe what a fabulous picture that thing was throwing. I had to go next door to get my neighbor to see this. He just stood there staring at the screen and said nothing. Then my buddy stopped over and all he could say was, "I'm sold." I loved it.

I'm thinking about getting a HD DVD player. Will I see a dramatic difference in picture quality going to a HD DVD player?

TIA

It will depend on what you are watching. HD DVD and Blu-Ray movies are mostly shot on film. With the better video encoding in these formats, they can preserve film and for some, it may be a disappoint b/c you see grain in the picture (because it belongs there). Watching sporting events is different because you are watching content that is recorded from HD cameras where film grain is not present.

It will depend on what you are watching. HD DVD and Blu-Ray movies are mostly shot on film. With the better video encoding in these formats, they can preserve film and for some, it may be a disappoint b/c you see grain in the picture (because it belongs there). Watching sporting events is different because you are watching content that is recorded from HD cameras where film grain is not present.

Good point.

So if I understand you right, I should notice a difference but it won't be dramatic. Is this correct?

Thanks for the response.

Good point.

So if I understand you right, I should notice a difference but it won't be dramatic. Is this correct?

Thanks for the response.

That is correct. There will be better, it may not be as dramatic. However, something that is different with HD DVD and Blu-Ray in general is the interactivity that is found on these discs (such as dynamic PiP and internet features found mostly on HD DVD), which is something you will definitely notice, whether you're using an HDTV or not.

That is correct. There will be better, it may not be as dramatic. However, something that is different with HD DVD and Blu-Ray in general is the interactivity that is found on these discs (such as dynamic PiP and internet features found mostly on HD DVD), which is something you will definitely notice, whether you're using an HDTV or not.


Thanks again.

Hey guys , well Ive had the 4805 every since it came out(not sure how long ago that was/)


anyways,

I have never had my projector mounted on the celing because I lived with my folks, but now that I am in an apartment , I need the Projector mount or otherwise its going to be impossible to have a projector in my bedroom


can any of you guys reccommend a link or a website to a specific kind ,

or could you guys give me pointers on looking for them

I have been looking at ebay , they have some that are around $30 - $40 for shipping and handling , but I dont know whats good and whats not good ,




any help would be greatly appreciated

also , how dfo you mount a projector


i mean is it ok too just mount it on one celing joist ?


cause this is the only way I will be able to do it in this apartment , its not like I have my own house where I can blcok the celing in where I want the projector to be

Check out 'Mighty Mounts' on fleaBay sold by Kurt 'Kokkoman' (if memory serves).

A single joist should be fine ... use a couple decent size/length bolts ... the whole works only weighs a few pounds.

http://www.gray.mb.ca/ceilingmount.jpg

yeah I have looked at a few of his

I heard the one you have pictured wasnt good , thats why it has a safety chain lol ,

Im not sure

anyone care to say what they have and if they like it ?

well i take that back , now im looking at it and thinking about it , cause it is all metal and not plastic


im just wanting to get soemting and not have to continuously worry that it may fall or something

im just wanting to get soemting and not have to continuously worry that it may fall or something:confused: Huh!?

I have used over 50 of Kurt's mounts. They are extremely well made, very solid/reliable and excellent value. I use Kurt's mount on my $13,000 Yamaha projector!

The chain is there so that, when YOU are adjusting the thing, you don't release it altogether and drop the projector.

If the chain makes you nervous, leave it off! ;)

haha yeah, lol


im looking at another one that is plastic, im not sure of it though , i would post the link but i cant here

woiuld you mind if i pmed you the link for you to have a look see

also guys


where can I get a cable(needs to be at least 25 feet) or 30) where I can hook up my computer to my screenplay 4805 I have this described cable , but its only 6 feet , and Im using my computer as my dvd player lol , in this apartment so I need a long cable to reach the pj which is mounted above my bed on the other side of the room

where can I get a cable (needs to be at least 25 feet) or 30)monoprice.com (http://monoprice.com)

I got this one (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082803&p_id=3009&seq=1&format=2) from Monoprice. It works perfectly with the 4805 and is only $17 + ship.

Make sure you turn the allen bolts on the rod COUNTERclockwise to TIGHTEN. Trust me, that's the way it is supposed to be. You'll know what I mean when you get it. Don't forget that tip!!!



can any of you guys reccommend a link or a website to a specific kind ,

I just posted this elsewhere where the Kworld and 4805 was mentioned in the Costco DVD thread but perhaps this is the better place.

After not getting a picture while trying to connect the TV Box with the 4805, I got sidetracked and came across the "source enable" (p38) in the manual and decided I did not need anything selected so I deselected "component" I had selected (for my DVD player) long ago and the lamp immediately turned off and the keyboard and remote no longer work!!!! The fan still runs.

I have never upgraded the firmware because I was satisfied with my pic and did not want to mess with anything. When I went to the Infocus website I saw 2 updates from my current 1.13 and noticed that if I upgrade I could deselect source enable. Well, what if I have deselected source enable without having that upgraded software? I assume that is why the projector is non-responsive (except that I can turn it on and off with the toggle switch...fan only no light).

Of course I still have the problem with getting the 4805 and the KWORLD to work.

Any suggestions/confirmations as to above? Help!

I have my 4805 connected to my Toshiba Satellite laptop. I don't see movies I am trying to run in media player. I see the media player and controls panel, but not the movie - strange. Is there a fix for this. Tnx

I just posted this elsewhere where the Kworld and 4805 was mentioned in the Costco DVD thread but perhaps this is the better place.

After not getting a picture while trying to connect the TV Box with the 4805, I got sidetracked and came across the "source enable" (p38) in the manual and decided I did not need anything selected so I deselected "component" I had selected (for my DVD player) long ago and the lamp immediately turned off and the keyboard and remote no longer work!!!! The fan still runs.

I have never upgraded the firmware because I was satisfied with my pic and did not want to mess with anything. When I went to the Infocus website I saw 2 updates from my current 1.13 and noticed that if I upgrade I could deselect source enable. Well, what if I have deselected source enable without having that upgraded software? I assume that is why the projector is non-responsive (except that I can turn it on and off with the toggle switch...fan only no light).

Of course I still have the problem with getting the 4805 and the KWORLD to work.

Any suggestions/confirmations as to above? Help!

I'm not sure why deselecting component would cause your lamp to go out. I'd recommend reseating the lamp by taking out the lamp, check to see if there's anything unusual about it and put it back in. And start up your projector again and see if it works.

I have my 4805 connected to my Toshiba Satellite laptop. I don't see movies I am trying to run in media player. I see the media player and controls panel, but not the movie - strange. Is there a fix for this. Tnx

Make sure the 4805 is the primary and only display. I've seen this happen on laptops where the secondary monitor needs to be the only enabled monitor in order for video to play correctly.

Thanks for the reply. I do not know why the lamp would go out since I did not jar the PJ in any way. I'll try re-seating it. (That should be interesting.) It's just odd that the remote, keypad and lamp all shut down at the same time. Thanks again. (GO COWBOYS.)

Thanks for the reply. I do not know why the lamp would go out since I did not jar the PJ in any way. I'll try re-seating it. (That should be interesting.) It's just odd that the remote, keypad and lamp all shut down at the same time. Thanks again. (GO COWBOYS.)

When you say, "(That should be interesting.)" in the above post, are you saying that you've NEVER taken the bulb out for cleaning? :eek: It certainly seems like that is what is implied with that remark.

Exactly....no dust balls...clear pic, so why tamper with what's working well? I do not have many hours on it.

Anyone got a good solution for showing Picture-in-Picture (PiP) on a projector? A while back I bought an ADS Upconverter that does PiP, but it's kind of a piece of crap and I quit using it. Anyone got any other solutions?

-Dan

Anyone got a good solution for showing Picture-in-Picture (PiP) on a projector? A while back I bought an ADS Upconverter that does PiP, but it's kind of a piece of crap and I quit using it. Anyone got any other solutions?

-DanWell, my HD DVR from E* (model is "ViP622") has a PiP feature built-in that lets me PiP a different channel than the one I'm watching. It can't PiP a video source like a DVD player, though. I suspect other satellite and CATV settop boxes have similar capabilities.

That KWORLD TVBOX 1440 is supposed to do PIP.

I have my 4805 connected to my Toshiba Satellite laptop. I don't see movies I am trying to run in media player. I see the media player and controls panel, but not the movie - strange. Is there a fix for this. Tnx

You can do what Ja Phule suggested or try cloning the displays (have them both display the same thing) instead of extending the desktop across the second display.

Exactly....no dust balls...clear pic, so why tamper with what's working well? I do not have many hours on it.

Three questions: How many hours, exactly, is not many? How long have you had it? Do you do a hard shut down every time?

Okay, upon reading the manual it says to look at it every 250 hours. I have less than 150 on mine. Bought in Dec. 05. As others have argued favorably here, I do a hard shutdown.

Anyone got a good solution for showing Picture-in-Picture (PiP) on a projector? A while back I bought an ADS Upconverter that does PiP, but it's kind of a piece of crap and I quit using it. Anyone got any other solutions?

-Dan

Yeah, that ADS was kinda flaky, I just got rid of mine on fleabay. That TVBox that hawaii263 mentioned seems to support HD over component inputs but it doesn't seem to support 16:9 resolutions (only 4:3 and 16:10).

Ja Phule
I just re-read the Kworld box I have right here and it supports 4:3 and 16:9...which is why I bought it. Now if I can get my PJ working again and figure out how to use it.....

It will also turn a monitor into a full-fledged HDTV! For much less! I have used it on an old monitor and it works well...though I haven't tried anything (like PIP) but viewing cable TV through it.

When viewing cable my 4805 will go dark and the compatability message displays in the lower left corner. I've seen it do this when the image goes totally white regardless whether it is from cable or DVD viewing. But this just seemed to have started recently and it will do it for no obvious reason.

Try setting sync threshhold to zero.

Well, my HD DVR from E* (model is "ViP622") has a PiP feature built-in that lets me PiP a different channel than the one I'm watching. It can't PiP a video source like a DVD player, though. I suspect other satellite and CATV settop boxes have similar capabilities.

Unfortunately not mine. Otherwise I wouldn't be asking! :p Thanks anyway.

-Dan

Ja Phule
I just re-read the Kworld box I have right here and it supports 4:3 and 16:9...which is why I bought it. Now if I can get my PJ working again and figure out how to use it.....

It will also turn a monitor into a full-fledged HDTV! For much less! I have used it on an old monitor and it works well...though I haven't tried anything (like PIP) but viewing cable TV through it.

I'm confused about this product, since it seems designed for computer monitors. I don't need another tuner -- all I want to do is take two of my existing sources and view them with PiP. It doesn't seem that this product was designed for that, right? It seems that it's designed to do PiP with its tuner and some other source, right?

-Dan

Yeah, that ADS was kinda flaky, I just got rid of mine on fleabay.

Perhaps you can answer a question and save me some time, before I go to the trouble of hooking it back up again. I haven't had it hooked up in a while, so I don't remember all the details. I remember that it messed with colors. Do you know if this was only with non-HD sources, or if it messed with HD sources also?

My thinking (with admittedly poor memory) is that everything I didn't like about it had to do with either the internal tuner, or non-HD sources. All I'd like to do with it now is play online poker with my PS3 and watch the baseball playoffs at the same time. Do you think it's worth the effort to hook it back up and try it?

-Dan

i know this sounds stupid, but does anyone know of a place that sells high-mileage (hour) bulbs? I figure theres gotta be someplace that sells them because of all the color wheel and other problems besides the bulb. i just need one to prove my pj works to someone who is interested in buying it.

dagware

I believe you are right. I should be able to view 2 different channels (PIP though I haven't tried yet) from the one source. However in response to a different question, the company seemed to indicate I could use 2 sources with this. I am sorting that out right now. In your case though, as you said, you don't need another tuner and this is a tuner. Sorry if I misled you.

Ja Phule
I just re-read the Kworld box I have right here and it supports 4:3 and 16:9...which is why I bought it. Now if I can get my PJ working again and figure out how to use it.....

It will also turn a monitor into a full-fledged HDTV! For much less! I have used it on an old monitor and it works well...though I haven't tried anything (like PIP) but viewing cable TV through it.

I haven't tested the kworld tuner but I did read up a little on it. It supports 16:9 and 4:3 as in receiving those inputs. However, output resolutions are limited to a few 4:3 resolutions and 1440x900 (16:10) and it seems it's ideal for many of the 19" and 20" widescreen 16:10 monitors out there. I also read that PIP functions only work at 4:3 resolutions. It also stretches 16:9 sources to 16:10 from what I've read. Interesting device but some of the reviews for it (like vga passthrough being pretty bad) has turned me off.

Perhaps you can answer a question and save me some time, before I go to the trouble of hooking it back up again. I haven't had it hooked up in a while, so I don't remember all the details. I remember that it messed with colors. Do you know if this was only with non-HD sources, or if it messed with HD sources also?

My thinking (with admittedly poor memory) is that everything I didn't like about it had to do with either the internal tuner, or non-HD sources. All I'd like to do with it now is play online poker with my PS3 and watch the baseball playoffs at the same time. Do you think it's worth the effort to hook it back up and try it?

-Dan

I remember mostly it being buggy. I think it faired pretty decently with HD sources.

What's the known turnaround time?
From the time InFocus receives a defective lamp, until you receive the replacement??

-W

dagware

I believe you are right. I should be able to view 2 different channels (PIP though I haven't tried yet) from the one source. However in response to a different question, the company seemed to indicate I could use 2 sources with this. I am sorting that out right now. In your case though, as you said, you don't need another tuner and this is a tuner. Sorry if I misled you.

No worries, mate. We're all learning here!

-Dan

I remember mostly it being buggy. I think it faired pretty decently with HD sources.

Thanks. I guess I'll give it another try. At least then I can be reminded of what I hated about it <g>.

-Dan

Ja Phule

Thanks for the info. If I get the PJ working.... and working with it, I'll let you know what I think of it.

I bought it for $15 after rebate so it is worth the chance...plus I can always use it on 1 of my monitors.

Im just gonna say, I watched Transformers today on the trusty ol' 4805. Wow, there is nothing wrong with this projector LOL! Looked absolutely insane.

This movie has the most action I have ever seen, period!!!

Ya..... I just finished it.... insane action coutesy of ILM.

-W

Ja Phule,

I examined the lamp and did not notice anything wrong and it seemed to be seated correctly. Lamp still does not shine. Any other suggestions? (Infocus hasn't responded except for giving me a confirmation # in their auto response.)

While in there I cleaned a little and I mean little bit of dust from a mesh screen.

I recently purchased a PS3 and have it connected to my 4804 via m1 to HDMI. The issue that I am having is the overall contrast/brightness of the set-up is off. Games and Blu-Ray are very very dark compared to HD content via component. I adjusted the RGB gains and Offset but still can't get a picture that pops. Does anyone else have a PS3 hooked up to a 4805 via HDMI that would care to share their setup?

I recently purchased a PS3 and have it connected to my 4804 via m1 to HDMI. The issue that I am having is the overall contrast/brightness of the set-up is off. Games and Blu-Ray are very very dark compared to HD content via component. I adjusted the RGB gains and Offset but still can't get a picture that pops. Does anyone else have a PS3 hooked up to a 4805 via HDMI that would care to share their setup?

I have my PS3 hooked up to my 4805 using an HDMI->M1 cable, and it looks fine. I don't remember having adjusted anything, but I can check when I get home.

One word of warning: Don't change the 4805's input to something else while the PS3 is on. Chances are good that the PS3 will quit working over HDMI if you do that. If this happens, turn off the 4805, and turn the PS3 off using the power switch on the back. Turn the 4805 back on (after waiting at least 60 seconds), then turn on the PS3 while holding down the power button on the front for 5 seconds.

-Dan

My Son uses the 360 and the PS3 on the SP4805. Both look and work fantastic. We were able to get our screen size (painted wall) to 120 inches. Awesome.

hey guys , im looking at this electric screen for my 4805, it seems to offer the best bang for the buck for as big of a screen as im wanting , since im on a budge



http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10829&cs_id=1082901&p_id=3018&seq=1&format=3


any of you others out there have this screen ?


or care to chime in on it

OK.. my 4805 has a new lease on life. :D
At 2800 hours my bulb was getting a bit too dim for my 102" diagonal shot onto white blackout cloth. The ND2 filter had come off back at 1900 or so.

I got a hold of a new lamp with less than 200 hours, and it had a defective reflector. The owners 4805 died shortly after installing this lamp unit and he pulled it to sell it - and later discovered it was also bad. (all the silver plating peeled of inside, made a mess too!)

After toying with the idea of trying to move the bulb into my reflector... I came upon "Plan B". I had a clearly defective lamp... under 6m old... and clearly very, very, low hours. A couple phone call to the right people to get it a good "pedigree" and off it went to InFocus. New lamp came yesterday, and I installed it and re-calibrated the PJ (I blasphemer - had thrown it off a couple clicks to compensate for dim bulb - for "watchability")

Tonight it premiered with Revenge Of The Sith. About 10 minutes in I remembered exactly WHY I bought an ND2 filter. I was glad I kept it. :D

So I have a "new" PJ again.... Let's hope I get another 2.8 years outta this lamp!

-W (delaying the upgrade to hi-def a bit)

Direct TV HD receiver to the 4805, HDMI to M1 connection.

Has anyone had trouble w/the display of the the above components?

I hooked up this cable, part #2696, (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10238&cs_id=1023802&p_id=2696&seq=1&format=2 ) and turned on my receiver/4805 and only got audio, NO video. In the bottom of my screen it says

"This program includes content protection that restricts viewing by the television attached to your Direct TV receiver's HDMI connector"

Can someone help me out? This is the appropriate cable, right? Is this something new?
(sorry if the link didn't take)

Direct TV HD receiver to the 4805, HDMI to M1 connection.

Has anyone had trouble w/the display of the the above components?

I hooked up this cable, part #2696, (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10238&cs_id=1023802&p_id=2696&seq=1&format=2 ) and turned on my receiver/4805 and only got audio, NO video. In the bottom of my screen it says

"This program includes content protection that restricts viewing by the television attached to your Direct TV receiver's HDMI connector"

Can someone help me out? This is the appropriate cable, right? Is this something new?
(sorry if the link didn't take)

Try turning on the 4805 first, then the receiver or vice verse. If that doesn't work, just use component cables instead.

I don't have DTV HD but had a similar experience with my ATT UVerse receiver this weekend. No message like the one you've seen, just a padlock on the screen. I got sound and menu so the display was fine but there was a big padlock on the display for any channel. I plugged in component cables for a quick test and the display was fine.

The problem with ATT receiver via component to the 4805 is that it does not allow me to send anything other than the 480p signal that looks like crap on the big screen. 1080i via HDMI looks great but for some reason it locked me out of this weekend. When I tried it again the next day, HDMI output worked fine again.

Hopefully you'll have a similar experience but it sounds like the DTV box is "smarter" somehow. It must think it is connecting to a computer and they're not allowing video? Have you seen anything in the manual that specifies connections that are not allowed? You might have to call DTV tech support for help. Good luck with that.



Direct TV HD receiver to the 4805, HDMI to M1 connection.

Has anyone had trouble w/the display of the the above components?

I hooked up this cable, part #2696, (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10238&cs_id=1023802&p_id=2696&seq=1&format=2 ) and turned on my receiver/4805 and only got audio, NO video. In the bottom of my screen it says

"This program includes content protection that restricts viewing by the television attached to your Direct TV receiver's HDMI connector"

Can someone help me out? This is the appropriate cable, right? Is this something new?
(sorry if the link didn't take)

Hello,

I'm wondering if my infocus (wich i so proud of it!!) can handle blu-ray or hd with a hdmi-dvi cable and if there is a difference between a regular dvd, is it worth the money?

Thx

barbo17:

It will handle all signals up to 1080p. It will convert them down to 480 of course. The image quality will be better than regular DVD (mostly you will see better colors, and less compression artifacts). I personally don't think it's worth it unless you upgrade to 720p pj or better....

hey guys , im looking at this electric screen for my 4805...

Any particular reason you would want an electric drop-down screen over a fixed?

Ok thx gnovilos. Sorry, What do you mean by upgrading to 720pj, another projector? Don't think so, I'm in love with it! I've got also a plasma 42' panasonic, but i love the soft images and colors of the 4805. I'm new in this forum, so I hope to learn a lot of you guys...

Grtz from Belgium
Peter

barbo17:

I personally don't think it's worth it unless you upgrade to 720p pj or better....

I think it's worth it, for sure! They look incredible on my 4805. I don't doubt that a higher-res projector would look better, but there is a noticeable difference.

Just my opinion.

-Dan

Oh, and you need an HDMI->M1 cable, not HDMI->DVI cable. However I'm not convinced it looks any better than component cables.

-Dan

Correct.

The real problem is that you can no longer easily find an upconverting DVD player that will upconvert via component... all of them do upconv over HDMI only nowadays... if you did get your hands on one of the old players, component would work just fine (if note better!!! HDMI is still goofy)

Oh, and you need an HDMI->M1 cable, not HDMI->DVI cable. However I'm not convinced it looks any better than component cables.

-Dan

No luck Japhule, thanks for the response though.

Redbird - I will probably call DTV and ask for help.

According to my DTV manual for the HD receiver, it says that

"The HDMI jack uses HDCP content protection to allow you to view HD programming that has been encoded using the HDCP protection system. For the best access to HD programming at the highest available resolution, connect this to an HDTV that supports HDCP technology."

Does my 4805 support the HDCP technology? It says "for the best access", but it seems to me that I would at least get a picture. I guess since the 4805 manual doesn't mention HDCP the answer is no. I am not familiar with HDCP technology. If that is a relatively new innovation (in the last few years), it would render alot of HD displays useless when using the DTV's HDMI jack. It appears that I will need an HD display that supports HDCP to get a picture.

Thanks for your input.

Does my 4805 support the HDCP technology?YES! It says "for the best access", but it seems to me that I would at least get a picture.You should get a 480p image if the HDCP is not being recognized.

Make sure you are connected directly from your satellite/cable receiver to the projector (with no switches, adapters or AV receivers in the circuit)!

Make sure your 4805 is powered on FIRST!

Make sure you have the right cable ... as dagware says, it should be an HDMI to M1-D.

Check monoprice.com for cheap/good HDMI to M1-D cables!

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10238&cs_id=1023802&p_id=2696&seq=1&format=2

is this the right cable? this is what i am using. if you look under the description tab it says that my projector must be HDCP compliant. however, a quick flip through the 4805 manual doesn't mention HDCP. also, the cable description says "new HDMI source devices" I did not know that there was OLD HDMI source devices. maybe my PJ is an OLD HDMI source device. i tried everything else you mentioned Cavu without luck.

What about firmware? Can that make a difference? I never did update mine, and I had the same issue with my Comcast DVR. Since I was already using the M1 for the Bravo, it didn't matter, but when I did do a test, I also got the same thing.

When you say:
and turned on my receiver/4805 and only got audio, NO video.Does that mean you're going HDMI into the reciever, which is extracting the digital audio, and then taking HDMI out of the receiver into the 4805? Or are you taking the HDMI from the STB straight into the 4805, and using a separate audio connection into the receiver (e.g. TOS-link or L/R stereo). If the former, have you tried the latter?

Thanks to vttom's ideas, I was able to figure this out. I assumed that when I used my cable it would autosource itself. I've unplugged the component and audio inputs, plugged my HDMI to M1 in, and set it up for autosource. It switch itself to computer and now I have a picture. However, I thought my cable was suppose to carry audio as well and it didn't. So the cable plus audio inputs equals picture and sound. Another rookie mistake I guess. Thanks to everyone who helped me figure this out.

it appears that my solution worked temporarily, b/c now i have the same problem again. somebody pass me the aspirin bottle and a six pack.

it appears that my solution worked temporarily, b/c now i have the same problem again. somebody pass me the aspirin bottle and a six pack.It's beginning to sound to me like you've got a flaky cable or connector somewhere.

that may be an issue. i was able to get the picture/audio back by unplugging the HDMI/M1 cable and then plugging it back in. I going to turn the receiver/4805 for an extended period of time and see if it acts up again. i did notice that by using the cable(as opposed to using component) i was able to set my HD receiver to 1080 and the picture was sharper and did not give me a headache. originally i found that 720 gave me the best overall picture. it is important to remember that i am an rookie PJ owner, so i may not be able to properly discern what the sharpest image would be b/c of my limited experience. maybe spyder can replicate some of my experiements w/his setup and he may be able to render a more experienced opinion.

I'll try, but I won't have time until Wednesday. I will say that 720p is typically best for sports, while everything else seems like a wash to me.

I think a lot of headaches can be avoided by just using component for HD content (esp on a 480p projector). HDMI is overrated.

I'm trying to use my 4805 to do a slideshow at my wedding (tomorrow lol) and am trying to figure out what cord I need. It looks like the easiest would be s-video as both the PC and the PJ accept it.

I have a DVI to M1 cord for my Oppo but the computer only has VGA and S-video.

I'm not very handy with computers so I'm looking for a little guidance.

Thanks,
jmac

I'm trying to use my 4805 to do a slideshow at my weddingDo you not have the VGA/USB to M1 cable that came with your projector??

VGA would be far superior to S-Video !

I have asked this question before, not gotten much response so I'll ask again. There are a few less than $100 HDMI DVD players for sale right now at Best Buy. Samsung, LG, Toshiba, Phillips are some of the brands.

Does anyone have one of these low cost DVD players hooked up via HDMI/M1 to the 4805 projector? I would like a specific model number that we all can trust.

My Verizon fios takes up my component connection.

The last time I tried one of these brands (I tried 3 of them), all I got was a blue screen due to HDCP on the players kicking in cause it thought it was being copied--I guess because of the hdmi-m1 connection.

I have a Bravo D2 hooked up via DVI that I would like to punt.

Thanks guys!

I have a Bravo D2 hooked up via DVI that I would like to punt.You will never get a better PQ from SD-DVDs than you will from the Bravo! Assuming you have it set up properly, that is.

You will never get a better PQ from SD-DVDs than you will from the Bravo! Assuming you have it set up properly, that is.


I can appreciate that. The Bravo is great when it works and remembers the settings That is not the question though.

I cannot believe there are no responses to this simple question! What happend to all the chatter here?

I think it would be a great survey question--

What DVD player (make-model#) are you using on your 4805; and what type of connection (component or HDMI/DVI)?

Could one of the moderators set this up? I would be glad to help.

Thanks.

What DVD player (make-model#) are you using on your 4805; and what type of connection (component or HDMI/DVI)?

Could one of the moderators set this up? I would be glad to help.


I think nearly everyone that has a 4805 is likely using a Bravo, hence the complete lack of responses to your multiple inquiries over the past few months. Some others may have moved on to an HD-DVD or Blu-Ray unit of some sort. There's no need to have a moderator set up a survey. Simply start a new thread asking the question you posted above.

I just dropped in a new lamp from buy.com in my 4805. Turned in on and am getting the same two red blinks that the old bulb gave me. Did a lamp reset many times. Re-seated the new lamp many times. Nothing but 3 seconds of green, fan, strike noise or beep(right before the color wheel used to spin up), then nothing. Infocus tech support just wants we to by a referb 7210 for $1500. They where very little help. this is my third bulb but never had to do a lamp reset before. Is there a way to tell if the lamp I got new is defective?
It looks new and was sealed.
Can I pop on an ohmmeter?
Can I hok this up via USB and do some diagnostics on it?
Is there another way to do a lamp reset? Pressing the up and down for 10 sec doesn't seen to get any reaction from it.

Yes I searched to no avail. Any help is great!

Ok I feel stupid. Tech support said press the plus and minus together for 10sec. I was pressing the up and down, not what I posted as vol up and vol down. Working great!
Now, since I never did a reset via this method (I did it via the menu) does the projector automaticayy shut itself down and give red blinks after a certain amount of hours? Could my old bulb be good?

casiodave:

Infocus charging you $1,500 for a refurbed 7210 is absolutely insane! I dislike infocus.... they made it sound like they were trying to 'help' you, in your unfortunate situation, but see what they did instead?

Anyhow, so glad your new lamp works. !

My 4805 has been working fine. Happened to open up and take a look at the filters. Finally starting to show a hint of dust build up, after 3 years. But I was more concerned about the metallic slivers stuck in the filter screens. Looks like there's some flaking going on with the bulb surface. Is this normal with projector bulbs? It's 3 years old, but only about 800 hours or so. On the lower half (the pointed end), about three hours arc if you consider looking into the bulb like looking at a clock.

Is this where you replace it before it cries help in an undesirable fashion, or is it normal wearing and eventually it just doesn't work and I replace it then?

Sp4805 experts. I am afraid that I am at the end of the road with my Sp4805. I have the original bulb, cleaned the filters regularally and enjoyed nearly 3,00 hours of fun. On a few occassions I have heard color wheel whine, but it disappeared after a few minutes.

Tonight, I went to turn the unit on and was shocked to see half a picture on the left and darkness on the right. The bulb strikes Ok and I get light out of the lens.

Is this the dreaded "Light Tube issue" where the glue comes undone and the mirrors collapse?

Is there anything else which could have caused this?

Anything I can do besides my three choices?

1) upgrade to a 720. The Sanyo Z5 is priced right and about the only unit in it's price bracket to fit my room.

2) tear apart the unit, try to glue mirros back and end up destroying it.

3) Take it back to Costco for refund as I am not happy. But, I did buy it 2 1/2 years ago, before they changed their refund policy.

Any ideas are appreciated

PKinSFLA

Sp4805 experts. I am afraid that I am at the end of the road with my Sp4805. I have the original bulb, cleaned the filters regularally and enjoyed nearly 3,00 hours of fun. On a few occassions I have heard color wheel whine, but it disappeared after a few minutes.

Tonight, I went to turn the unit on and was shocked to see half a picture on the left and darkness on the right. The bulb strikes Ok and I get light out of the lens.

Is this the dreaded "Light Tube issue" where the glue comes undone and the mirrors collapse?

Is there anything else which could have caused this?

Anything I can do besides my three choices?

1) upgrade to a 720. The Sanyo Z5 is priced right and about the only unit in it's price bracket to fit my room.

2) tear apart the unit, try to glue mirros back and end up destroying it.

3) Take it back to Costco for refund as I am not happy. But, I did buy it 2 1/2 years ago, before they changed their refund policy.

Any ideas are appreciated

PKinSFLA

Definitely light tunnel. Personally I would get the refund from Costco and upgrade, especially if you're viewing any HD. There are a lot of great 720p choices out there now at great prices.

Same happened to me, but I didn't have the refund option. I upgraded to a Marantz VP4001 and will attempt to repair the light tunnel and sell the 4805.

Scooterboy, I am going to Costco this morning to see what happens. I have everything which came it, incuding an unopened free screen as part of the deal. I would have rather had the bulb blow out then this.

The filters were cleaned every 250 hours and it never overheated. From what I read it appears that the problem is in the glue used to hold the mirrors together. For a unit which at one time cost 2K to have it end over cheap glue reminds me of buying cars where a glued piece of trim just drops off one day. That is not part of what you paid for and is unacceptable.

The mount I built based on your Home Depot brackets is still going strong and shows no sign of wear and tear issues . A home made mount for 20 bucks lasts longer than a thousand bucks of electronics (now 325$ I think) where two bucks of mirrors and 5 cents of glue are the achilles heal.

How do you make something where the cheapest component causes catastrophic failure?

PKinSFLA