I agree, the tunnel glue issue is a real shame. Very hard to get to, as I understand it. SO repair is not exactly straight forward.

I am waiting till mine dies, and then I will upgrade to a 720 or possible 1080 pj.

Things went smoothly at Costco this morning. I explained what the defect was and they agreed that no one expects something like glue to cause half a picture to disapear. We have bought projectors from Costco for business and run them non stop for years with out abnything like this happening. Bulbs are what always get replaced and no one complains about that unless it is extremely short lived.

My choices because of my throw range needs is down to Sanyo Z5, Panny 200 and Epson 810. I am leaning towards the Epson since I can get it locally for a fair price. The 800 I saw was very quiet and ran far cooler than the 4805. The Epson 810 is supposed to have higher contrast and has come down in half from it's opening price of 3K when Projector Central reviewed it.

I can say one thing safely about Costco this year. I and my friends and co workers will be spending a lot of money this Xmas Season there. I know their return policy has changed, but they make you want to spend your money there again and again. I would have bought another PJ from them if they had one that fit my room. I do need a 42 inch LCD .

PJinSFLA

Things went smoothly at Costco this morning. I explained what the defect was and they agreed that no one expects something like glue to cause half a picture to disapear. We have bought projectors from Costco for business and run them non stop for years with out abnything like this happening. Bulbs are what always get replaced and no one complains about that unless it is extremely short lived.



PJinSFLA


Are you saying that after 2.5 years, Costco took back the 4805?

Yes they did. I bought it before they changed their return policy. I still had the original packing, unopened cables and the 76 inch screen that came with it. I explained the failure of the light tunnel which cut the picture in half and that this was happening to other 4805 PJs. I never had this happen with any of the business PJs we bought from them and it is absurd to have a problem with glue be the cause of failure.

I was ready to accept anything from them and was quite surprised at how they handled this. I by no means went in to fight and argue with them and just explained that I think InFocus has a defect in this product's assembly as I have read of the same problem by many others around the country . I maintained the PJ impeccably and it came in looking spotless, repacked in the original box.

PKinSFLA

Costco has a "100% Satisfaction Guaranteed" policy. You can return anything you buy there for any reason no matter what condition it's in or how long you've owned it if you claim it did not live up to your expectations.

The exception is electronics. The policy used to apply to electronics until they changed the policy this first of this year (1/1/2007). With the new policy you only have 90 days to return products. Cosco does, however, extend all manuacturer's warranties to 2 years at no cost.

This was a reaction to the fact that too many people were abusing the policy and using it as "obsolesence protection".

Too bad, because this light-tunnel problem is exactly the kind of thing that the original return policy was created for.

Fortunately, electronics purchased before the new policy went into effect are "grandfathered" and still covered by the original terms (no time limit).

When I looked at the Costco policy yesterday at the store, it was not that broad. I think it specifically mentioned the exceptions as:

"Exceptions: Televisions, projectors, computers, cameras, camcorders, iPOD / MP3 players and cellular phones must be returned within 90 days of purchase for a refund."

It wasn't broad, just mentioniung 'Electronics'. I for one returned my DVD player, and that was not on the list. I specfiically looked.

"Exceptions: Televisions, projectors, computers, cameras, camcorders, iPOD / MP3 players and cellular phones must be returned within 90 days of purchase for a refund."

There should be another exception stating XBox 360 units must be returned within 24 hours.

Yeah they are great! Problem with electronics was everytime they came out with a new LCD/Plasma (Bigger/cheaper) ppl starting taking back their old (6 months) units. They screwed up a good policy just becasue they wanted bigger and newer for less $$$. I bought my 4805 with 92" Luma screen from them and I still love it (On second bulb) with no problems, but I had additional cooling (air vent and ceiliing fan) right around the ceiling mounted 4805.

It was a policy that was going to be abused by the a-holes of the world wanting a 45" lcd instead of the 42" they already had for the same amount of $$$ six months later. Just think about buying a PJ and returning it after 3 years due to a malfuntion. What a great deal or was a great deal for us PJ owners.

Hell, I've returned a pressure washer that was 3 years old that had a known manf. defect and bought the next size up for $20. As well as some other stuff that broke due to problems with the item. Can't beat them anywhere. Sams is suppose to have a similar return policy.

I should have thought of that - cleaning the gutters and the pressure washers hose sprung a leak - talk about your violent hose whipping around! Bought it at costco should have remembered to return it even though I had it a couple years and no box anymore. The replacement hose and a gutter attachment cost as much as the original washer - spendy parts replacements.

I can appreciate that. The Bravo is great when it works and remembers the settings That is not the question though.

I cannot believe there are no responses to this simple question! What happend to all the chatter here?

I think it would be a great survey question--

What DVD player (make-model#) are you using on your 4805; and what type of connection (component or HDMI/DVI)?

Could one of the moderators set this up? I would be glad to help.

Thanks.

I play DVDs on my computer and connect it to the 4805 via VGA cable from my ATI 9600 video card. I don't have a stand-alone DVD player, I sometimes wonder if it would be a better picture with component cables. Then every few months, when I visit this thread to catch up, I keep hearing about this Bravo DVD player. I wonder if it would be worth it to buy either a cheap stand-alone DVD player with component cables or maybe a Bravo DVD player with that M1 cable (I bought that cable about 2 years ago but never used it). The only complaint I have right now is that I get frequently get the "tearing" effect, like the screen is being torn in half horizontally.

I sometimes wonder if it would be a better picture with component cables.The PQ from VGA (aka RGB) is theoretically the same as component video. However, you might see some improvement if you use a high-quality component cable instead of the VGA cable that shipped with the projector. Personally, I think your best bet would be to upgrade the graphics card and cabling to DVI/HDMI.

Then every few months, when I visit this thread to catch up, I keep hearing about this Bravo DVD player. I wonder if it would be worth it to buy either a cheap stand-alone DVD player with component cables or maybe a Bravo DVD player with that M1 cable (I bought that cable about 2 years ago but never used it).Depending on your PC's and video card's capabilities, a stand-alone DVD player may do a better job of de-interlacing the DVD content. If I were you, I'd forget about component video and look for an upconverting model with DVI or HDMI output (don't worrry about looking for 1080p capabilities, that would be wasted on the 4805).

The only complaint I have right now is that I get frequently get the "tearing" effect, like the screen is being torn in half horizontally.Sounds like you need to tweak the sync. threshold in the 4805's setup menu.

agent8698

Go into your graphics card and enable v-sync.

Second, upgrade your graphics card to a DVI-enabled card, and then pixel-map to your 4805. Otherwise, you are wasting your computer's ability. This, IMHO, is just as good, if not better than a Bravo.

agent8698

Go into your graphics card and enable v-sync.

Second, upgrade your graphics card to a DVI-enabled card, and then pixel-map to your 4805. Otherwise, you are wasting your computer's ability. This, IMHO, is just as good, if not better than a Bravo.

Okay, thank you therealgeno and vttom; I like the idea of upgrading my video card, but I don't have a lot of money to spend. I see that there are many video cards with DVI output. I am not a gamer, and I don't watch TV on my computer, only DVDs and other video media. I do have a nice 20-inch LCD monitor, if I could watch some HDTV content in some form that added resolution would be worth it to me to spend more if needed. Otherwise, would something cheap like this be adequate for DVD watching:

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1776106&Sku=P450-8568&SRCCODE=SHOPPINGDF&CMP=OTC-SHOPPING

I don't know much about HDTV, I understand that there are new ways of getting HDTV resolution besides blu-ray or HD-DVD, such as certain media files that can be downloaded with the higher HDTV resolution, such as movie trailers in HD on Apple's website somewhere. I do want to be able to play such things in HD resolution, at least on my LCD monitor (I realize that it won't be HD on the 4805).

About the pixel-mapping, I remember reading about that on this forum a year or two ago, and I think I downloaded Powerstrip, but I never could get it to produce anything better-looking than what I had already, perhaps it was a limitation of the possible resolutions of my ATI 9600 AIW card. Maybe I'll try again with a new video card.

As far as v-sync, I did a search in the ATI catalyst control center for that term and it does not appear at all, but there is a vertical synchronization (and horizontal synchronization) somewhere in the control center, is that what is meant by "v-sync"?

I am writing this for 3 reasons....the first is to acknowledge the fast turnaround time by Infocus in fixing my PJ (less than a week after I shipped it priority mail).

The second is to have someone explain what they did (this is their reply in caps):

PROJECTOR PROBLEM: NO LIGHT

REPAIRS DONE: PROBLEM DUPLICATED, UPGRADED FLASH, FIXED NO LIGHT ISSUE, TOOK APART CLEANED AND TESTED.

The third reason for writing is to report that I finally have a picture using my KWORLD tuner from its MMI output into the PJs RCA input. The pic is just okay. I should also be able to use the MMI output on the KWORLD to the S-Video and component inputs on the PJ which should improve the pic immensely. However, since I never seem to get the auto-source to find my conection, I have to tell the PJ that I am using the RCA and that seems to work. But I haven't been able to get the S-Video or component conections to work. Could someone just write the step by steps I need to take to get the PJ to show video through its component (or S-Video) inputs?

Thanks.

I just bought a HD A2 and will be hooking it up to replace my D1. Should I use the HDMI on the A2 and the component for the HD cable box? I am wondering how the two players will compare with this projector.

Craig

AVS to the Rescue,
I figured I'd ask here. A couple months ago, I finished my Home Theater, upped to a Samsung 710AE, and handed the 4805 down to my little brother (and D1).

Problem,
the DVI input on the 4805 went dead !
The 4805 does project an an image through yellow composite, he hasn't tried component.

Is there a fix out there, or is this a dead input ?
Infocus tech seems to think it's the cable (monoprice 35')...I highly doubt that.
I suppose he could use component, I had to for the Directv HDNFL games and the 4805 looked great !...but we have the cables, and we like the digital.

Thanks guys

AVS to the Rescue,
I figured I'd ask here. A couple months ago, I finished my Home Theater, upped to a Samsung 710AE, and handed the 4805 down to my little brother (and D1).

Problem,
the DVI input on the 4805 went dead !
The 4805 does project an an image through yellow composite, he hasn't tried component.

Is there a fix out there, or is this a dead input ?
Infocus tech seems to think it's the cable (monoprice 35')...I highly doubt that.
I suppose he could use component, I had to for the Directv HDNFL games and the 4805 looked great !...but we have the cables, and we like the digital.

Thanks guys

Why would you doubt it's the cable? Cables really do go bad. Get another cable and try it out. You can get something shorter just for the experiment -- you could even buy it and return it when you're done (but of course I would never do anything like that, which you'd know is the truth if you ever saw my boxes (plural) of extra cables and stuff!)

I know it's never easy to hook up stuff through a short cable, but it *can* be done, and will either confirm or eliminate the cable as the culprit.

-Dan

I just bought a HD A2 and will be hooking it up to replace my D1. Should I use the HDMI on the A2 and the component for the HD cable box? I am wondering how the two players will compare with this projector.

Craig

Yes. There will be virtually no difference with the cable box over component, as well as virtually no difference with both DVD players with SD material. (The D1 produces slightly better colors, imo.)

Virtually = you've got to be a complete AV geek to tell. (Not that that's a bad thing in any way.) :)

Had a bad pixel on my PJ, bought another one without a bulb as a replacement. Switched bulbs but the new one lights up and shuts down after a few seconds. Sometimes the red LED flashes 3x, and sometimes it stays green. I then swapped the light engines from one to the other and now they both shut down. The lamp is good because it lights up in both Pj's. My original one doesn't flash red at all. It just keeps running but the lamp goes out. Any help would be great.

Yes. There will be virtually no difference with the cable box over component, as well as virtually no difference with both DVD players with SD material. (The D1 produces slightly better colors, imo.)

Virtually = you've got to be a complete AV geek to tell. (Not that that's a bad thing in any way.) :)However, you should know that some gear won't put out resolutions higher than 480p over component while they'll go all the way to 1080i or p over HDMI. You may need to experiment to make sure you're getting the maximum resolution out of each source. I'm a DVI/HDMI biggot, so I bought an HDMI switcher in order to support multiple DVI/HDMI sources with my 4805.

Yes. There will be virtually no difference with the cable box over component, as well as virtually no difference with both DVD players with SD material. (The D1 produces slightly better colors, imo.)

Virtually = you've got to be a complete AV geek to tell. (Not that that's a bad thing in any way.) :)

Thanks, thats what i thought. If the HD DVD looks as good as the HD cable I will be happy. Does anyone know what setting I should have on the A2?

Thanks Craig

Had a bad pixel on my PJ, bought another one without a bulb as a replacement. Switched bulbs but the new one lights up and shuts down after a few seconds. Sometimes the red LED flashes 3x, and sometimes it stays green. I then swapped the light engines from one to the other and now they both shut down. The lamp is good because it lights up in both Pj's. My original one doesn't flash red at all. It just keeps running but the lamp goes out. Any help would be great

The 4805 has 2 fans in it. I assumed that you cleaned the screen on the light fixtures so that it is getting good air flow. If so, turn on the projector and look through the back of it (I think one of the composite input gives just the right angle). After some warm up time (I think) you should see the fan spinning that is right behind the bulb. If you see the fan's fins, it is not spinning. The 2 fans are driven by a controller card that controls the fans as the projector heats up. If the fan does not go on before it shuts itself off, assuming it is shutting itself off due to heat (usually that takes around a minute or 2 and comes with a "smell"), then either the fan and/or controller card has a problem. Mine was both and I ended up installed a new 'direct wired' fan and it has been going since. If it does power up for a bit you could also check and reset the hours, I can't recall if the 4805 has an autoshut down after x lamp hours or not. I think the manual tells you how to re-set the hours without even getting to the display. That might also be worth a try.

tubesnhorns,

If the control card is malfunctioning did you replace it or bypass it? Would I need a new card or just a new fan?
Cheers

Ok,
When do I press the 2 volume buttons for ten seconds?

Like I said, it lights with the usual beep, stays on for 10 seconds, and then the color wheel stops and the bulb goes out instantly. The 2 fans are still running in sleep mode (you know...........the way they do after you powerdown without the switch). If the bulb was bad in anyway would it light at all?

Update: I have been able to get a better quality picture out of my 4805!

I use my desktop computer as a HTPC (Pentium 4, 3GHz, 1.5 GB Ram, XP SP2), and my video card is an older ATI All-In-Wonder 9600 series (from early 2003, it's not even the pro model (http://www.tweaknews.net/reviews/aiw9600/)). Unfortunately this video card does not support DVI, so I'm stuck with the VGA connector. However, I have been able to achieve a very good picture: my normal desktop resolution is 1024 x 768. I have the ATI Catalyst Control Center set so that the 4805 is in every way a clone of the desktop. When I watch DVD movies, I change the resolution to 800 x 600 (important), then I set the 4805 to "native". As far as the 'screen tearing' problem, I looked around in the Catalyst Control Center and found the hidden v-sync control located here:

Catalyst Control Center / Advanced view / Graphics settings / Monitor properties 0 / Adjustments / Synchronization / Vertical.

After the slightest tweaking of that control, the tearing problem was gone.

As far as the resolution of the picture on the screen, it is now as detailed as it gets, I believe, because when I examine text on my Da-lite screen from several inches away, I can see how each letter is composed of black, square boxes, and how the spaces between letters are empty white boxes, and all of this is quite sharp and I believe I have reached the limits of the resolution of the 4805. So now I can't imagine what an all-digital connection could add to this (except maybe for subtle improvements in the color?). Anyway thanks to several posters for their suggestions. Max

P.S. for playing DVD movies I use Zoomplayer WMV Professional v4.51 with the following FFDShow settings:

Zoomplayer Pro / options & setup / DVD / DVD Setup / Customized / Video Decoder: Cyberlink PowerDVD 6+ / Audio Decoder: Cyberlink PowerDVD 6+ / Audio Renderer (Audio Device): Default DirectSound Device / Additional Filters: FFDShow Video Processor / Video Renderer: VMR9 Windowless.

The only changes I made to the default FFDShow settings are these: Codecs: Raw video: all supported, and: Sharpen: unsharp mask, strength: 60. And: color controls, saturation: 1.16. On the 4805 I think I have the default picture settings like contrast 50, brightness 50. I learned how and why to use FFDShow for playing DVDs here: http://www.htpcnews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=132&Itemid=29

...When I watch DVD movies, I change the resolution to 800 x 600 (important), then I set the 4805 to "native"...

:confused: ??? :confused:

agent8698,

I'm not too sure about using 800x600....If I had to do VGA, I'd probably set the resolution to a 16:9 resolution like 1280x720.

Hi everyone

I have added HD Directtv to the 4805. I love the picture and have been using the projector more now. I have about 600 hours on it and was thinking about upgrading. there seems to be a lot of deals now on a 720p projector.

Looking for opinions on
-Should I upgrade before I start having problems/need a bulb on the 4805?
-What should i purchase that would be an improvement over the 4805 (looking mostly at machines about $600 to $900).

Thx

...Looking for opinions on
-Should I upgrade before I start having problems/need a bulb on the 4805?
-What should i purchase that would be an improvement over the 4805 (looking mostly at machines about $600 to $900)...

Yes.

Mitsubishi HD1000U is in your price range.

Avoid Acer PH530 and Optoma HD70 at all costs.

Scottwood,

I just went from the SP4805 to a Panasonic ax200 and have no regrets. For my room I needed a long throw lens and the Panny had more lumens than the Sanyo and was cheaper than an Epson 810.

No matter how much better the picture is on the Panny, the SP4805 truly is an amazing machine. Since it is almost 3 years old now, upgrading now is to your advantage as my light tube went out at the 2,500 hour mark.

A few differences between my old SP4805 and the Ax 200

- Ax200 is a bigger machine and seems heftier. The SP4805 is more plastic.

-My 4805 was assembled in China vs an AX Japan build.

-To my eyes, contrast on the AX 200 is very good. Much better than older LCD PJs I have seen.

-The AX200 is brighter and allows me to have more light in the room where I sit. I do not need to have the room look like a cave.

-The iris and light adjustment on the AX200 really work. If my wife puts on a light to read, the PJ bumps up the lumens and the picture is not washed out.

-I really loved the SP4805 PJ in HD. However, no matter what any one tells me, there is a difference when you double the pixels and view HDTV.

-The AX 200 is very quiet, much quieter than my SP4805.

-The AX 200 remote grows on me every day and I can see how the logic worked in setting up the commands. I like being able to choose different inputs like video, component and HDMI with the same picture and seeing an almost instant switch.

-The AX200 is far cooler than the SP4805. My machine could heat up the room with the exhaust. That was great when it got cold in SOuth Florida. Rest of the year I had to turn up the AC to counteract.

-The SP4805 I think is better on SDTV than the AX200. Forget using HDMI for SDTV. The Farujda processor made the SP4805 a real favorite in picture quality.

In all, I can not regret ever buying the SP4805 and enjoyed every minute of it. If you can get a good price for it now, almost any of the 720P machines can be a step up. Your room and requirements are going to whittle your selections. A machine like the Sanyo Z5 for many people is fantastic for the price. A real cheap machine like the Acer may not be a good choice for SP4805 owners.

If my machine did not fall apart, I would still be watching it and would upgrade when the bulb finally blew out.

Watch the SP4805 for a few more weeks to save up more money and skip the cheapest choice. When you have more money, the choices grow better for you and once you go above the 1000 dollar mark a bit, you have real improvements awaiting you. Some people are buying closeout IF7210s for a little above your budget.

PKinSFLA

Thx PKinSFLA for the great reply.

Maybe I do have a lot of life left in the 4805. I do really like it. We still watch a bunch of SD. Like HD better but until there is more content. Getting there with DTV.

Maybe I will just keep my eyes open and see what comes along. The 7210 would be a good upgrade but it does seem a little pricey still.

thx again

Scottwood,

I just went from the SP4805 to a Panasonic ax200 and have no regrets. For my room I needed a long throw lens and the Panny had more lumens than the Sanyo and was cheaper than an Epson 810.

No matter how much better the picture is on the Panny, the SP4805 truly is an amazing machine. Since it is almost 3 years old now, upgrading now is to your advantage as my light tube went out at the 2,500 hour mark.

A few differences between my old SP4805 and the Ax 200

- Ax200 is a bigger machine and seems heftier. The SP4805 is more plastic.

-My 4805 was assembled in China vs an AX Japan build.

-To my eyes, contrast on the AX 200 is very good. Much better than older LCD PJs I have seen.

-The AX200 is brighter and allows me to have more light in the room where I sit. I do not need to have the room look like a cave.

-The iris and light adjustment on the AX200 really work. If my wife puts on a light to read, the PJ bumps up the lumens and the picture is not washed out.

-I really loved the SP4805 PJ in HD. However, no matter what any one tells me, there is a difference when you double the pixels and view HDTV.

-The AX 200 is very quiet, much quieter than my SP4805.

-The AX 200 remote grows on me every day and I can see how the logic worked in setting up the commands. I like being able to choose different inputs like video, component and HDMI with the same picture and seeing an almost instant switch.

-The AX200 is far cooler than the SP4805. My machine could heat up the room with the exhaust. That was great when it got cold in SOuth Florida. Rest of the year I had to turn up the AC to counteract.

-The SP4805 I think is better on SDTV than the AX200. Forget using HDMI for SDTV. The Farujda processor made the SP4805 a real favorite in picture quality.

In all, I can not regret ever buying the SP4805 and enjoyed every minute of it. If you can get a good price for it now, almost any of the 720P machines can be a step up. Your room and requirements are going to whittle your selections. A machine like the Sanyo Z5 for many people is fantastic for the price. A real cheap machine like the Acer may not be a good choice for SP4805 owners.

If my machine did not fall apart, I would still be watching it and would upgrade when the bulb finally blew out.

Watch the SP4805 for a few more weeks to save up more money and skip the cheapest choice. When you have more money, the choices grow better for you and once you go above the 1000 dollar mark a bit, you have real improvements awaiting you. Some people are buying closeout IF7210s for a little above your budget.

PKinSFLA

I´m planning on upgrading my 4805 too. I´ve targeted the Ax200U and the In 76. One part of me says..."go for the DLP, you love your 4805". The other saw HD clips on a AE 900 and liked the contrast and sharpness. The Pana is brand new and $300 less...I guess the IN 76 do not worth the difference...¿Where is the closeout of the 7210? price?

The 4805 has 2 fans in it. I assumed that you cleaned the screen on the light fixtures so that it is getting good air flow. If so, turn on the projector and look through the back of it (I think one of the composite input gives just the right angle). After some warm up time (I think) you should see the fan spinning that is right behind the bulb. If you see the fan's fins, it is not spinning. The 2 fans are driven by a controller card that controls the fans as the projector heats up. If the fan does not go on before it shuts itself off, assuming it is shutting itself off due to heat (usually that takes around a minute or 2 and comes with a "smell"), then either the fan and/or controller card has a problem. Mine was both and I ended up installed a new 'direct wired' fan and it has been going since. If it does power up for a bit you could also check and reset the hours, I can't recall if the 4805 has an autoshut down after x lamp hours or not. I think the manual tells you how to re-set the hours without even getting to the display. That might also be worth a try.


Anyone that can give me a clue as to how to direct wire the fan? I think that's the issue with mine because I changed out the fan but it still won't start. Any help would be appreciated.

Anyone that can give me a clue as to how to direct wire the fan? I think that's the issue with mine because I changed out the fan but it still won't start. Any help would be appreciated.

OK - This is what I did:

I had the light tunnel issue so I took out the light tunnel and krazy glued it back. I had the controller board issue with the bulb fan but the color wheel fan was still working. I spliced both fans onto the line the color wheel fan is on. The fan is a new fan as I didn't know it was the board.

The picture is LIKE NEW again, no yellow lines and it's quieter than before :)

If anyone sees any reason I shouldn't have done this please chime in.

Anyone know where I can buy a color wheel? Mine broke after 3 yrs of use.

Do the fans have a speed sensor on them or just run off of 12 volts, or 5 volts?

The colorwheel broke? You mean the glass itself broke? Neat, but bad. For that you need to go to ebay because you now need some major repairs. As far as I know Infocus never made available a color wheel. If they did repairs would be pretty cheap. I replace them all the time on DLP sets I work on, unless they're under warranty in which case the manufacturer wants the light engine replaced.

Good luck, I think you might need it.

Do the fans have a speed sensor on them or just run off of 12 volts, or 5 volts?


I put in a ULTRA ULT-30245 Thermo-Control Fan rated at 12 volts, spliced it into the line with the smaller fan and it's working. The PJ is not overheating..

I wouldn't mind just replacing that board, if I see one on ebay that looks like it might be OK for cheap, I just might get it.

Anyone know where I can buy a color wheel? Mine broke after 3 yrs of use.

Broke or just came apart? If it's the latter and the pieces are in good shape you could try to use some super glue to put it back together.. It really blows that you can't just get the parts you need anywhere but Infocus just won't sell them.

I put in a ULTRA ULT-30245 Thermo-Control Fan rated at 12 volts, spliced it into the line with the smaller fan and it's working. The PJ is not overheating..

I wouldn't mind just replacing that board, if I see one on ebay that looks like it might be OK for cheap, I just might get it.
Do you have any instructions or diagrams on how to direct wire the bulb fan? Was your bulb working without the fan? Thanks

Any tips on using the Circuit City Extended Warranty? My 4805 just died, and I'm going to take it to CC to get them to fix it. The color wheel died (it's in pieces inside the projector). So before I go in, I thought I'd check here to see if I need to know anything.

I've searched this thread and it looks like most people have had good luck getting CC to honor the warranty. Still, if any of you have tips, I'd like to hear them. Thanks.

Dan

Any tips on using the Circuit City Extended Warranty? My 4805 just died, and I'm going to take it to CC to get them to fix it. The color wheel died (it's in pieces inside the projector). So before I go in, I thought I'd check here to see if I need to know anything.

I've searched this thread and it looks like most people have had good luck getting CC to honor the warranty. Still, if any of you have tips, I'd like to hear them. Thanks.

Dan

Can't help you with that but I was wondering how many hours you have on your unit?

Thx

Can't help you with that but I was wondering how many hours you have on your unit?

Thx

I honestly don't know. But I bought it in August of 2005, and have been running it A LOT. It's my primary TV and gaming device.

Dan

If anyone's interested, I've decided to buy a new projector. I'll still get the 4805 fixed under the extended warranty, and keep it as a spare. I think I'm leaning towards the Mitsubishi HC1500. Best Buy has them for less than a grand, and I think it will be a good fit for me. Still doing research, but I can't live without a TV, so whatever I get, I'm getting it today.

Dan

I think I'm leaning towards the Mitsubishi HC1500...

Probably the best you can do at a B&M and under such time constraints.

If anyone's interested, I've decided to buy a new projector. I'll still get the 4805 fixed under the extended warranty, and keep it as a spare. I think I'm leaning towards the Mitsubishi HC1500. Best Buy has them for less than a grand, and I think it will be a good fit for me. Still doing research, but I can't live without a TV, so whatever I get, I'm getting it today.

Dan



another 4805 has been replaced .

congratulation .

Hope the Mit 1500 works out for you.


murph:)

If anyone's interested, I've decided to buy a new projector. I'll still get the 4805 fixed under the extended warranty, and keep it as a spare. I think I'm leaning towards the Mitsubishi HC1500. Best Buy has them for less than a grand, and I think it will be a good fit for me. Still doing research, but I can't live without a TV, so whatever I get, I'm getting it today.

Dan

You might want to check some threads here at AVS for a comparison between it and the HC3000 which is $100 less at BB.

You might want to check some threads here at AVS for a comparison between it and the HC3000 which is $100 less at BB.

Not at my Best Buy. Since I'm addicted to TV and games, I can't be without my TV for very long, so I pulled the trigger and bought the HC1500. I just finished mounting it and watched about 30 minutes, and so far it looks good. I'll do some calibration and fiddling later.

I used the same ball-joint mount I have been using with the 4805. I cut a piece of wood and attached the mount to the wood, and drilled some holes in the wood and attached it to the new PJ. Works fine for now.

As for the 4805 and the Circuit City warranty, I took my 4805 back to the store and they told me I have to call an 800 number. I called the number and they only have M-F service, so I'll have to wait until Monday to see how they handle this.

Dan

...As for the 4805 and the Circuit City warranty, I took my 4805 back to the store and they told me I have to call an 800 number. I called the number and they only have M-F service, so I'll have to wait until Monday to see how they handle this.

Dan

Warrantech maybe?

Hello,

I want to buy a Samsung BDP-1000 Bluray for my infocus 4805, wich cable do i need to connect to the beamer plzz? And will the quality be better with blu-ray? I heard or read, it will be even better with a normal dvd movie (upscaling?). Is it worth the money for this beamer? Thx already.... Grtz Peter

Hello,

I want to buy a Samsung BDP-1000 Bluray for my infocus 4805, wich cable do i need to connect to the beamer plzz? And will the quality be better with blu-ray? I heard or read, it will be even better with a normal dvd movie (upscaling?). Is it worth the money for this beamer? Thx already.... Grtz Peter

You probably want an HDMI->M1 cable. Go to monoprice.com.

I should point out that it will work fine with component cables. I never noticed any difference (YMMV). Yes, BD looks better. Is it worth the money? There's no way to answer that -- you have to answer it for yourself.

Dan

Upconversion will only work over HDMI/M1, not over component. ;)

Upconversion will only work over HDMI/M1, not over component. ;)

I guess I don't understand what you're saying. SD and DVDs can be upconverted to up to 1080i over component. I'm doing it now. So help me understand what you're trying to say, please? Or are you saying that this particular DVD player won't upconvert over component? If so, that sux.

Dan

HD DVD/Blu Ray will not upconvert SD DVD's over an analog connection. They will only upconvert over a digital connection.

Hello all,

On page 4 of this thread their was a posting for the service manual for the 4805. That link is no longer vaild (sorry I can't post links since I am a new member.

That link is no longer available and I have been unable to get the manual anywhere on-line.

The reason I need the service manual is that I found a company that will order the fan for me without sending in the unit, if I can get them the part number. The unit is out of warranty and I am not willing to pay the money on this unit to have it 'professionally' installed.

Thanks.

HD DVD/Blu Ray will not upconvert SD DVD's over an analog connection. They will only upconvert over a digital connection.

How come? That doesn't make any sense to me. I have lots of devices that can upconvert various sources over component. Why wouldn't a BD player be able to do this?

Dan

Hdcp?

How come? That doesn't make any sense to me. I have lots of devices that can upconvert various sources over component. Why wouldn't a BD player be able to do this?

Dan

Most players will limit component connections to 480p and will only upconvert to 720p/1080i/1080p via hdmi when you are watching copy protected DVDs. Backups and non-copyprotected DVDs on the other hand....

In any case, there isn't much reason to have DVD upconverted on the 4805 because it's no an HD projector and anything upconverted will be downconverted again to the 4805's native resolution of 854x480.

Hi,

I was wondering if it's just time to replace the lamp or something else with my 4805.

1) There was a yellowish streak on the far left of the display from the projetor image.

2) A week later, half the screen is quite dark and the yellowish streak is in the middle of the image.

Is this a normal sign to replace the lamp? Thanks.

Hi,

I was wondering if it's just time to replace the lamp or something else with my 4805.

1) There was a yellowish streak on the far left of the display from the projetor image.

2) A week later, half the screen is quite dark and the yellowish streak is in the middle of the image.

Is this a normal sign to replace the lamp? Thanks.

It sounds like your light tunnel is coming unglued. Do a search for light tunnel in this thread. Some people have been able to fix it themselves. I hope you are still under warranty. Good luck!

Hey guys, my 4805 is blinking red 3x, i check with the manual and it states its the bulb. Is it a way to "jump" a bulb to make sure it is out?

Hi,

I called Infocs about the problem when half the screen is dark, the guy kept on insisting the port is loose for video and I pay $270 for basic repairs and more if there are more problems. Either way, I pay $270.

Since the lamp is almost down to a few more hours and considering the cost of spending $300 or more. I am thinking about getting a Mitsubishi projector. Hopefully they are better. Any advice?

Thanks.

Hi,

I called Infocs about the problem when half the screen is dark, the guy kept on insisting the port is loose for video and I pay $270 for basic repairs and more if there are more problems. Either way, I pay $270.

Since the lamp is almost down to a few more hours and considering the cost of spending $300 or more. I am thinking about getting a Mitsubishi projector. Hopefully they are better. Any advice?

Thanks.

You absolutely, definitely, positively have a light tunnel issue. IF will charge you far more than the $270 for the repair. There is lots of info on this thread on how to fix it yourself...not for the squeamish. The Mitsu is fine, but check around for the IF 7210 before you buy.

You absolutely, definitely, positively have a light tunnel issue. IF will charge you far more than the $270 for the repair. There is lots of info on this thread on how to fix it yourself...not for the squeamish. The Mitsu is fine, but check around for the IF 7210 before you buy.

I recently purchased the 7210 and am very happy with it so far. I would definitely suggest you check out the 7210 as one of your options.

I recently purchased the 7210 and am very happy with it so far. I would definitely suggest you check out the 7210 as one of your options.

I have to Agree ,The Sp-7210 is well worth the $999:D

You can get into the show for " $635 " with a 720p but why sit in nose bleeds when you can Have tenth row center or better for $999 .

It could be a long show you never know i would hate to see you settle for less.

cheers

Murph:)

Most players will limit component connections to 480p and will only upconvert to 720p/1080i/1080p via hdmi when you are watching copy protected DVDs. Backups and non-copyprotected DVDs on the other hand....

Thanks for explaining it in a way that was able to get through my thick skull! :o

Dan

Since the lamp is almost down to a few more hours and considering the cost of spending $300 or more. I am thinking about getting a Mitsubishi projector. Hopefully they are better. Any advice?

I recently got the Mit HC1500 and have been quite happy with it.

Dan

As for the 4805 and the Circuit City warranty, I took my 4805 back to the store and they told me I have to call an 800 number. I called the number and they only have M-F service, so I'll have to wait until Monday to see how they handle this.

Called yesterday about this. At first the guy told me they wouldn't cover a broken color wheel. I'm not even sure he knew what it was. He pointed me to some online verbiage about what is covered and not covered, and none of it applied to me.

I asked to speak to a manager, but the guy told me the manager would tell me the same thing. I said that's OK, I want to talk to him anyway. A little while later he came back on and gave me a tracking number and said the service provider would be sending me a shipping box soon. He said they decided to let the service provider decide if they would fix it or not.

So, the wait continues. I am *so* glad I bought another projector. If I hadn't, when this guy started giving me the run-around, I think I might have blown a fuse or something! :eek:

I'll report back as things progress.

Dan

At first the guy told me they wouldn't cover a broken color wheel. I'm not even sure he knew what it was. He pointed me to some online verbiage about what is covered and not covered, and none of it applied to me.Please name this company.

Please name this company.

Agreed. I once knew who carried CC's repairs, but I've since forgotten.

Please name this company.

I'll let you know when I find out. No packages as of this morning.

Dan

I thought I had posted something like this already but I guess not.

For what it's worth, Infocus fixed the projector.
I sent it on 10/23; they received it on 10/25 and I received it back on the 31st. Pretty good turnaround I'd say. Still under warranty...no cost.

At first they told me to do the following which I did:

Thank you for contacting InFocus Technical Support. In response to your query,
I would appreciate if you could check and perform the steps mentioned below.
1. Clean the filters or lamp screen.
2. Make sure that there is nothing obstructing the ventilation.
3. Remove the lamp module, shake it gently and replace it.
4. Replace the lamp and please reset the lamp timer which would resolve the issue.

If the issue still persists after performing the above steps, then your projector needs to be serviced.

The above did not work so I sent it back.

Infocus' "after fix" response:
PROJECTOR PROBLEM: NO LIGHT

REPAIRS DONE: PROBLEM DUPLICATED, UPGRADED FLASH, FIXED NO LIGHT ISSUE, TOOK APART CLEANED AND TESTED.

I asked what upgraded flash meant and they responded:

Upgraded flash means the firmware upgrade has been upgraded on the projector.

If there is one small thing to complain about, it is that I sent them the original box and did not get it back...no big deal.

Has anyone bothered purchasing their extended warranty?

Thanks for everyone's advice in helping me with the problem. :-)

I'll let you know when I find out. No packages as of this morning.

The package just arrived. The company is called "Cyber Test, Inc." in Florida.

Dan

Hi-

I've loved this and the proir threads. Here is a thread for you guys to say goodbye to you old 4805 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948662).

thank you for your detailed description and images of your repair job. I have the same problem. You saved me. Does the fan you recommend only have 2 wires coming out of it like the original one?

Hey guys, my 4805 is blinking red 3x, i check with the manual and it states its the bulb. Is it a way to "jump" a bulb to make sure it is out?
with a volt meter. I have a brand new bulb I bought. Unfortunately my problem was not the bulb. If you are interested in buying the new bulb I will make you a deal. Email me at tjriha75@msn.com

with a volt meter.Actually, you mean an "ohm-meter" but you are wrong in both cases.

These lamps are "arc" lamps and have no filament so their continuity cannot be checked with an ohm-meter!

Yet another "thumbs-down" from cavu! :D

Sorry, used a generic term for a multitester. But on your second point, the old bad bulb does not read continuity, but the new good one does. Either way the new bulb is for sale if someone needs a bulb because I have some other sort of problem. When I power the unit on it immediately blows the soldered in fuse on the board. If anyone has any ideas what the issue could be I am open to suggestions on how to fix. In the mean time I already went and bought a new Epson.

I just installed my sons new PlayStation 3 and started playing games and watching blu-ray movies, all set in 720p. Great picture! Great everything!

Untill the bulb went! OK, after 2.000 hours that wasn't so bad, but just before it went a yellow stripe occured to the right in the picture. The stripe grew in size, taking approx. 2-3% of the picture.

Now I have changed the bulb - but the stripe is still there!

I tried cleaning the color wheel and removing all the dust I could spot, but it is still there.

Anyone experienced the same?

Now I have changed the bulb - but the stripe is still there!

I tried cleaning the color wheel and removing all the dust I could spot, but it is still there.Use the "Search This Thread" link above and search for "light tunnel".

I just installed my sons new PlayStation 3 and started playing games and watching blu-ray movies, all set in 720p. Great picture! Great everything!

Untill the bulb went! OK, after 2.000 hours that wasn't so bad, but just before it went a yellow stripe occured to the right in the picture. The stripe grew in size, taking approx. 2-3% of the picture.

Now I have changed the bulb - but the stripe is still there!

I tried cleaning the color wheel and removing all the dust I could spot, but it is still there.

Anyone experienced the same?

Sounds like the light tunnel is coming unglued. Search this thread for light tunnel. Several people have been able to repair it. I hope you are still under warranty.

I have two Bravo D1's going on ebay tomorrow if anyone wants to jump in early send me a PM. $75 for both, I'll try to keep the shipping as low as possible based on location.

One works fine with the mod performed by myself. The other needs the mod to be corrected, I suspect the replacement cap. is bad. and Im throwing in two spare caps.

Both Loaders work well, the one with the good cap. misreads about one in 30 loads and corrects on the second or third try.

I just installed my sons new PlayStation 3 and started playing games and watching blu-ray movies, all set in 720p. Great picture! Great everything!

Untill the bulb went! OK, after 2.000 hours that wasn't so bad, but just before it went a yellow stripe occured to the right in the picture. The stripe grew in size, taking approx. 2-3% of the picture.

Now I have changed the bulb - but the stripe is still there!

I tried cleaning the color wheel and removing all the dust I could spot, but it is still there.

Anyone experienced the same?

Here is my detailed tutorial for fixing the problem you have:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10792432#post10792432

Post #20. It's mistakenly in the X-1 forum, but my projector was a 4805. Good luck! It's not really hard, especially if you don't have to hunt for where the light tunnel actually is (like I did).

My problem is that i can not get video to play on my 4805 from my DVD sources. It plays great from the cable box to Receiver to Projector.

I tried 2 different DVD players through the Receiver, i can get audio, but no video. At one point i did get video for about 10 secs, but than it went white and got the projector message "Out of Range" and started "Searching..."

i have tried both hdmi and component connection to the Receiver, and i connected via Component from the Receiver to the Projector.

I tried 2 different inputs (DVD and HDP) on the Receiver.

here is my set up:

HDTV Cable (1080i)
IF SP 4805
Denon 2808ci AV Receiver
Toshiba Progressive DVD/VCR Combo

any help? or point me to the right direction?

My problem is that i can not get video to play on my 4805 from my DVD sources. It plays great from the cable box to Receiver to Projector.

I tried 2 different DVD players through the Receiver, i can get audio, but no video. At one point i did get video for about 10 secs, but than it went white and got the projector message "Out of Range" and started "Searching..."

i have tried both hdmi and component connection to the Receiver, and i connected via Component from the Receiver to the Projector.

I tried 2 different inputs (DVD and HDP) on the Receiver.

here is my set up:

HDTV Cable (1080i)
IF SP 4805
Denon 2808ci AV Receiver
Toshiba Progressive DVD/VCR Combo

any help? or point me to the right direction?

Go into settings and set the Synch to "0" (Zero). If that doesn't fix the issue, try connecting straight to the PJ without going through the receiver. If that does work, then your receiver has a problem, not the projector.

i tried directly from DVD player to 4805 via component, and no image. the 4805 continues to "Search..."

i adjusted the Synch Threshold to 0 / 50 / 100 and difference.

does this indicate something wrong w/ the 4805? even though i get an image from the cable box?

i tried directly from DVD player to 4805 via component, and no image. the 4805 continues to "Search..."

i adjusted the Synch Threshold to 0 / 50 / 100 and difference.

does this indicate something wrong w/ the 4805? even though i get an image from the cable box?

Put your sync threshold back to where it was. Sound like it's your dvd player.

If you are getting a signal straight from the cable box to the 4805 but not from the dvd player straight to the 4805 when using the same component cables, it's definitely the dvd player.

i tried 2 different DVD players, 1 is 2-3 yrs old, 1 is 3-4 yrs old.

i did not try cable box direct, but since it works through the Receiver, i didnt see the need too.

i have been using the component cables to the 4805, as i dont have a M1 cable or adapter for the HDMI cable. Its ~25ft run to the projector, and i don't want to buy another cable for a projector that i may replace.

Originally Posted by section8tx
i tried 2 different DVD players, 1 is 2-3 yrs old, 1 is 3-4 yrs old.

With no receiver in the loop and using component straight to the 4805?

If you're getting a picture from the cable box using component then there is nothing wrong with the 4805. What's wrong is how you're setting up either the receiver or the DVD player or both.

With no receiver in the loop and using component straight to the 4805?


yes, i tried both with and without Reciever in the loop.

i thought i tried every setting on the receiver. i even used the same inputs that the cable box is using successfully. which is even more confusing when it doesn't work.

Your DVD players are the issue from what you described.

I have gone through several problems with my 4805 in the last few weeks.

First, I had the periodic whine from the 4805. This problem was fixed by taking the whole unit apart, replacing the fan, and then hooking up the new fan to the 12V screen trigger output of the 4805.

After I put the unit back together, I am no longer able to get any video from my component input. (Composite works fine.) I've tried two different video sources (comcast digital tv receiver and a wii) and two different sets of component cables. I've also set the sync threshold to 0 with no luck. The box in the lower right hand corner of the screen just says "searching..."

I'm running firmware version 1.3.2. I hope I didn't fry something while I had the unit taken apart.

After I put the unit back together, I am no longer able to get any video from my component input. (Composite works fine.) I've tried two different video sources (comcast digital tv receiver and a wii) and two different sets of component cables. I've also set the sync threshold to 0 with no luck. The box in the lower right hand corner of the screen just says "searching..."There's a setting somewhere that tells it which inputs are searched. Take a look at that screen and make sure Component Video is checked.

Hey guys, I was just wondering how the 4805 is standing up to the test of time and evolution. Mine has about 3500 hrs on the bulb, and im sure a new bulb is in my future. Also I get the fan whine sometimes as the projector warms up.

Should I replace the bulb and continue to run it, or should I pick up a newer projector. I love the 4805 and I dont have many complaints. I run 116" and have it on power save and I run it pretty dark. I was looking at what is out there in my price range (under 1000$). Is it worth it to spend the extra money (vs a new bulb) and get a different projector? I dont mind used stuff either.

thanks

Hey guys, I was just wondering how the 4805 is standing up to the test of time and evolution.
thanks

I've posted before about my 4805. I picked it up one of the first projectors from a local dealer so I got in on it very early. We mostly use our projector for weekend movies and sporting events and have about 1500 hrs on the lamp. I removed the ND2 filter a couple of months back then ran through a THX calibration and had to put it back on to get it dark enough to get past the black settings!!

The picture is still great!!

But the old girl (are projectors female...like boats) is not without her wrinkles. Often, the lamp doesn't want to strike. I flip on the power and the fan immediately spins up into high speed mode and the lamp doesn't come on. Over the last 6 months, I would say it takes an average of 7 or 8 tries before the lamp strikes. Once in a great while it will strike the first time but there have been several other nights when it took more than 20 tries and I was about to give up.

I called IF about it knowing it would be ridiculously expensive to send it in for a checkup and all they did was offer to sell me a new bulb. No thanks. My guess is that is a projector issue and not a bulb issue. Just a guess though. The IF rep said if a new bulb acted in the same manner, then I could return it for a full refund but I opted to ride it out for now. Rather than trying out a new bulb, I hope to jumped up to the 720p/1080p boat in the future but, in the meantime, I intend to ride the 4805 until it gives up the ghost while I wait for the prices to come down on the upgrades.

-Redbird

My 4805 is dead.

However I believe there are some links to how to fix them. Basically I have all the problems that 4805 owners talk about. Dust blobs, the tunnel is going so there is a big yellow band on the right side and what really took it out was now it makes a screeching sound and only shows black and white (something is very wrong with the color wheel). I have a sharp dt-500 on it's way but I think I'm going to take a go at fixing it. I have nothing to lose and if I can get it fixed up I'll have a back up projector. Is anyone aware of a "fix" for the color wheel issue? There are articles on cleaning the color wheel and getting rid of dust blobs but basically I think when I blew out part of the projector with an air gun I got too much dust everywhere and killed it (I even knew I wasn't supposed to do this and did it anyway...I'm an idiot) not sure it's terminal or if I can clean it out and get the gum out of the works so to speak. If not how expensive is a replacement color wheel has anyone replaced it? Also does anyone have any links to the different 4805 fixes available on these boards..if not I will look them up I just don't know what all people have put up on these boards. Infocus was will to do all of this for 250 bucks but since I don't HAVE to have this now I thought I would give all these repairs a shot. Plus I'm having a hard time parting with it :-D

it makes a screeching sound and only shows black and whiteThe colour wheel is broken. I mean BROKEN. The colour segments no longer exist. If you are handy, buy a broken 4805 for parts (<$200) and swap the entire colour wheel out. Or upgrade to the IN72 (<$500) if you are happy with 480p.

Is anyone aware of a "fix" for the color wheel issue?

Best thing I've seen yet:

https://home.comcast.net/~elderjex/ebay/colorwheel/colorwheel.htm

The colour wheel is broken. I mean BROKEN. The colour segments no longer exist. If you are handy, buy a broken 4805 for parts (<$200) and swap the entire colour wheel out. Or upgrade to the IN72 (<$500) if you are happy with 480p.

I already have a sharp DT-500 coming this isn't so that I'll have a projector I just thought it might be fun to fix my existing one to have an extra and to get it back to good running shape if that's possible. Cool thanks though you are telling me pretty much what I knew I didn't know if there was a repair. Like I said infocus will repair everything and clean it for 250 I guess that's always possibility and maybe I'll do if I have some extra money.

Best thing I've seen yet:

https://home.comcast.net/~elderjex/ebay/colorwheel/colorwheel.htm

Thanks man that's awesome. I'm going to tear it apart and take a look at it and see what can be done.

can these be swapped using the same exact locations?

Thanks,
Russ

can these be swapped using the same exact locations?

Thanks,
Russ

You mean for mounting?

I'm not sure if this is against the rules but there is someone local to me that just listed a 4805 on craiglist. Claims it was bought new a year ago and is barely used. It's priced at $400. If anyone wants me to I could check it out.

All, I'd like to feed my 4805 with ATSC and QAM HD signals from a DVD player/recorder that has such a tuner built in. My lite-on w/SD tuner is toast. Would anyone have suggestions? I know I could search in that sepecific forum, but many of these things spit out 16:9 not 4:3. Any help would be much appreciated.

If you don't mind a HTPC solution, check out the MyHD MDP 130 card with DVI daughter card.

Thanks for the suggestion but I do mind. Been there tried that. It's too much hassle and never worked correctly. I'd to to keep it simple for the wife. I'm thinking a Panasonic DMR-EZ17K.

After 3+ years (and 1000+ hrs) of enjoyment with 4805, I was thinking may be if it is time for upgrade.
Especially looking at the rebate offerings on Sanyo z2000, the temptation increased. BTW 4805 is running very well.
Just wanted to know if any 4805er has upgraded to z2000 and how do you like it. Especially when we are pampered with the blacks on DLP, how are they on z2000 (with 15000:1 CR)?

can these be swapped using the same exact locations?

Thanks,
Russ

I actually just replaced my 4805 with the 7210. Distance was the same so I didn't have to use the zoom, no light loss. The placement was pretty much the same, I just had to move the mount a few inches to the left if you're facing the screen. This thing is beautiful!

All, I'd like to feed my 4805 with ATSC and QAM HD signals from a DVD player/recorder that has such a tuner built in. My lite-on w/SD tuner is toast. Would anyone have suggestions? I know I could search in that sepecific forum, but many of these things spit out 16:9 not 4:3. Any help would be much appreciated.

That DVD/Tuner/Recorder looks really nice. With RW disk you have you a litlle DVR there too. I guess OTA HD transmission in 16:9 or 4:3 is left up to the local markets. I am not sure of this, but down here in North Florida all stations transmit HD in 4:3 format. (ABC/CBS/NBC/FOX)

Has anyone else seen this glitch?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=101143&stc=1&d=1202053264

I connected my SP4805 up via dvi for the first time yesterday. Initially the picture is fine, but if the projector has to resync at any point then I get a bar down the left hand side of the screen, "cloned" from an area on the right side of the picture. See attached images.

Deactivating and reactivating the video signal clears the problem.

It's particularly annoying as the projector resyncs between every video clip in a media player playlist as the signal is momentarily interrupted whilst the directdraw video overlay resets. This makes watching a video playlist in most media players impossible without this glitch appearing. The only media player I've found which doesn't trigger the problem is vlc as it doesn't reset the directdraw video overlay between clips.

I'm using an ati radeon 9600 with the latest (v8.1) catalyst drivers. I'm pretty sure it's the projector and not the video card but if someone has reason to think otherwise please say so.

The projector is on firmware v1.13. I've a vauge feeling that this issue has been described in the past but I couldn't find the reference despite several searches on Google and these boards. Any advice much appreciated.

Have you tried setting the sync threshhold to zero on the projector?

Have you tried setting the sync threshhold to zero on the projector?

Yep, no change but thanks for the suggestion. When the overlay resets then the glitch appears maybe 9 times out of 10, and I get the grey box in the bottom left the screen telling me the resolution and refresh rate indicating a resync of the display.

Does anyone know what the 4805 power supply DC output voltage is supposed to be with the power supply disconnected from the ballast? I am troubleshooting my dead 4805 which is blowing the fuse on the ballast. I'm interpreting this as a ballast problem, but I want to verify correct voltage on the power supply while I'm in there. Thanks.

Arrg. I watched exactly one movie via the new dvi connection before the main lamp fan failed! The themal cutout now trips within about 10 minutes of the pj being switched on. Has anyone had success replacing the fan on a 4805? It looks like a standard 12volt 80mm unit.

I'm going to have a go replacing it using the x1 service guide (the 4805 seems very similar internally to the x1) I'll post some photos once I've completed the repair.

Output voltage of power supply is 125V DC on my now working 4805. Ballast was bad. Replaced ballast. Symptom was projector would not turn on at all when switched on. No fans, no LEDs, nothing. Removing and replacing ballast is a relatively simple task once you find a working ballast. Hardest part is removing case without breaking plastic. Use screw driver to carefully release tabs. Disassembly instructions can be found on the internet. Beware of high voltage capacitors. Factory charges circa $300 w/shipping for basic repairs. I fixed my unit for about $75 with shipping for the part. I hope this information helps someone with similar problem.

I currently have the 4805 and the 106 inch draper screen and we were required to relocate from nc to in a year ago and now dont have the room to set it back up. I dont know what the current prices are for these right now bit I paid 1300 for it and it only has under 50 hrs on it if any on is interested let me know.

I currently have the 4805 and the 106 inch draper screen and we were required to relocate from nc to in a year ago and now dont have the room to set it back up. I dont know what the current prices are for these right now bit I paid 1300 for it and it only has under 50 hrs on it if any on is interested let me know.

Wow, $1300. So, you've had your 4805 for 6 years and only put 50 hours on it? That's amazing! :eek:

only had for a little over a year now its packed in the box in our closet I have had no place to use it due to being in a much smaller home and since then ive bought the sony kds a3000 projection tv so I dont and wont use it anymore.I actually forgot I had it until I came across the thread here.so it is what it is and in the closet it remains.

only had for a little over a year now its packed in the box in our closet I have had no place to use it due to being in a much smaller home and since then ive bought the sony kds a3000 projection tv so I dont and wont use it anymore.I actually forgot I had it until I came across the thread here.so it is what it is and in the closet it remains.

You paid $1300 for a 4805 a year ago? Wow.

If that's true, please say "Hello" to "The Sisters" at Shawshank Prison for me. You got raped.

that may be true but it came with the draper screen and all the cables audio and video. the picture quality wasnt what I expected either so I had two choices throw it away or pack it away and I saved it and when my son moves out he can take it with him.

Probably your best bet is to keep it for your son, as you'd easily take a whopping $1000 or more hit over what you paid just 12 months ago. Good luck.

Hi,

I'd really appreciate anyone's help on this (I've searched the forums for a fix but it is related to 2 issues)...

My 4805 projector will no longer light up and I'm basically trying to figure out if it's totally dead at this point or still salvageable (no warranty). PLEASE NOTE: Before it went dead it had the yellow/brown strip stain on the left side of the picture a.k.a. light tunnel problem. The yellow strip began about 1 year ago but I continued to use the projector (wish I knew about the tunnel light fix before this happened).

A few days ago I began having a hard time turning it on and had to cycle the power off & on to successfully watch it after doing this once. The first power up always powered down automatically after about 1 minute after being on and went to blinking red light. So I'd turn off the toggle switch, wait 1 minute, power back on and I was back in business for hours no problems. After doing this a few nights in a row it eventually went dead and here I am.

Current symptoms...

-Turn it on, fans all work, bulb doesn't light up (bulb was replaced by me and only has 700 hours on it, I removed it and looked inside and appears to be completely new still).
-Buzz saw whine noises begin in increments with 30 seconds of space between each spooling whine sound.
-After about 7 whine increments the blinking green light turns to a blinking red light that blinks consistently in 2 second increments per blink, one after the other, no sequence of any kind.

What I need to know is if I can still fix it myself or if it's time to retire it. I really want to fix it if I can. Fixing the light tunnel wouldn't solve all my problems would it? I posted this because I didn't want to spend all the time fixing the light tunnel just to find out that because I didn't fix the light tunnel early on enough it broke something else so I want to fix everything if I do take it apart the 1st time.

Thanks for listening! weston@boucherphotography.com

Weston

Current symptoms...

-Turn it on, fans all work, bulb doesn't light up (bulb was replaced by me and only has 700 hours on it, I removed it and looked inside and appears to be completely new still).
-Buzz saw whine noises begin in increments with 30 seconds of space between each spooling whine sound.
-After about 7 whine increments the blinking green light turns to a blinking red light that blinks consistently in 2 second increments per blink, one after the other, no sequence of any kind.I don't have any personal experience in this regard (my SP4805 is stilll going strong), but I have been reading this forum for a long time. I beleive the "buzz saw" sound is associated with a seized color wheel. If I were you, I'd start looking on eBay for a working but bulbless SP4805. Or maybe a non-working unit that you can scavange for parts (assuming it has a good color wheel and light tunnel, which might not be a very good assumption).

Current symptoms...

-Turn it on, fans all work, bulb doesn't light up (bulb was replaced by me and only has 700 hours on it, I removed it and looked inside and appears to be completely new still).
-Buzz saw whine noises begin in increments with 30 seconds of space between each spooling whine sound.
-After about 7 whine increments the blinking green light turns to a blinking red light that blinks consistently in 2 second increments per blink, one after the other, no sequence of any kind.

It almost sounds like it's not striking the lamp. Have you tried your old lamp? (assuming it wasn't broken) You might want to examine the lamp power socket closely. I just saw a SP5000 that the socket dislodged when the lamp was inserted so that it wasn't electrically connected. A simple pull reseated the molex connector and everything worked again. (aftermarket, as opposed to OEM lamps, also fail prematurely)

Thanks for the tips guys. My old lamp was thrown away because it was totally blown/popped so I can't check with a different lamp. Though I did take out the current lamp, looked great, dusted everything, and reinserted the power cable nice and snug. I suppose the connector could be bad but may be a remote possibility considering I had the light tunnel problem and then this suddenly happened without anything being moved or touched.

So color wheels must be hard to come by I take it? That is, by themselves? I'll check ebay to see what I can find.

If anyone else is reading this and has more troubleshooting for color wheel failure I'd really appreciate it. I don't want to go to the trouble of replacing the color wheel if it's beyond that or not related for some reason. Thanks.

So color wheels must be hard to come by I take it? That is, by themselves? I'll check ebay to see what I can find.If you read through this forum, you'll find that's one of the biggest complaints. You can't buy any of the DLP "light engine" components by themselves (that includes the color wheel and the light tunnel). So you have 2 options: A DIY repair using parts scavanged from another projector, or sending it to InFocus for an out-of-warranty repair for which they charge more than the cost of a comparatble new projector.

dudes is there a way to connect both my laptop and my DVD player to the projector at the same time. I am getting tired of changing cables all the time.:confused:

dudes is there a way to connect both my laptop and my DVD player to the projector at the same time. I am getting tired of changing cables all the time.:confused:

I have mine connected into a KVM switch so I can easily switch between 4 inputs. I made cables to go from the VGA on the KVM to component video on my STB, DVD, game systems...

-J

I have mine connected into a KVM switch so I can easily switch between 4 inputs. I made cables to go from the VGA on the KVM to component video on my STB, DVD, game systems...

-JWhat's wrong with using the component video input with the DVD player and the M1-DA (the DVI-ish connector) input with the computer, and letting the projector auto-select the source?

What's wrong with using the component video input with the DVD player and the M1-DA (the DVI-ish connector) input with the computer, and letting the projector auto-select the source?


Yes, the only way to get the sharpest picture from the 4805 from a HTPC is digtally. You can run the HTPC at 848x480 for 1:1 pixel mapping. The 4805 looks way better when fed digital than compared to a VGA connection.

Get yourself a M1-DA cable.


peace

I was not aware that the 4805 Had individual component video connections as well as M1-DVI. I am actually an X2 guy, and as far as I know, there isn't an M1 cable that will allow one to use component, vga, and DVI at the same time. (I could make one easily though)

Sorry if I confused anyone.
-J

I need to rerun my connection if digital is that much better, I'm pretty happy with the VGA....

I was not aware that the 4805 Had individual component video connections as well as M1-DVI. I am actually an X2 guy, and as far as I know, there isn't an M1 cable that will allow one to use component, vga, and DVI at the same time. (I could make one easily though)

Sorry if I confused anyone.
-J

You're not using them at the same time, you're simply allowing the PJ to detect which individual source is being used at any one given particular time.

You're not using them at the same time, you're simply allowing the PJ to detect which individual source is being used at any one given particular time.

Well yea, of course. But I'm saying the X2 doesn't have the option for RGB component video at all. Your only options for the X2 are composite/svideo on the back of the projector and the M1DA cable of which there is a DVI version or a VGA version. Never both.

-J

YES, there IS an M1DA to DVI/component/USB breakout cable available but you'll have to Google for it!

I need to rerun my connection if digital is that much better, I'm pretty happy with the VGA....

Digital is that much better. With the analog VGA connection you cannot run the 4805 native. You can only run standard resolutions with it like 640x480, 800x600 and 1024x768 causing it to scale, degrading the picture.

640x480 will give you a taste of what native looks like. It will light up all 480 vertical pixels while lighting up only 640 horizontal ones, so it will not scale it untill you change the aspect ratio.


peace

Digital is that much better. With the analog VGA connection you cannot run the 4805 native. You can only run standard resolutions with it like 640x480, 800x600 and 1024x768 causing it to scale, degrading the picture.Are you sure? I couple of times now I've used 800x600 over the stock DB15->M1/DA cable, set the 4805 to "native" mode, and it looks like it puts out a 1:1 pix-mapped picture by cropping the top and bottom off the desktop. Works just fine w/ WinDVD, because in full-screen mode, the movie is letter-boxed anyway.

When I first got my 4805 I used a s-video cable. It didn’t look that great. When I switched to component that was a big improvement. I now feed the PJ an 854 X 480 1:1 mapped DVI/M1 from my iScan HD+ video processor. I have to say the biggest improvement was from s-video to component. After 3 ½ years I am still wowed by the image:D

I'm getting that bulb flicker thing with my 4805. Noticed over the last weekend while playing Wii. I run on "low" to keep fan noise down but I've of course read that running it on high will help fix this issue. Will it work out on it's own or is running on high the only option...and how long did you typically run it on high. The PJ is directly above me and is obnoxiously loud on high.

how long did you typically run it on high.Usually a few hours.

dudes is there a way to connect both my laptop and my DVD player to the projector at the same time. I am getting tired of changing cables all the time.
I guess I should clarify. I am using an M1-DVI cable between my PJ and DVD player, and a M1-VGA to my laptop. I have to switch cables at the PJ when I switch the source, which is rather inconvenient since my PJ is ceiling mounted (Ladder). An M1-M1 extension cable would solve the problem (somewhat), but I don't think they make those. Does anyone make a switch or cable that has 1 M1-male and 2 M1-female plugs? Any suggestions.

Thanks

I guess I should clarify. I am using an M1-DVI cable between my PJ and DVD player, and a M1-VGA to my laptop. I have to switch cables at the PJ when I switch the source, which is rather inconvenient since my PJ is ceiling mounted (Ladder). An M1-M1 extension cable would solve the problem (somewhat), but I don't think they make those. Does anyone make a switch or cable that has 1 M1-male and 2 M1-female plugs? Any suggestions.

ThanksAh. Now I understand. It's a little known fact that the component video inputs on the 4805 will accept RGB as well. You need to get your hands on a 15-pin D-sub VGA to 3-RCA RGB adapter. Then you can use the M1 input exclusively with your DVD player, and the component/RGB input exclusively with the computer.

BTW - Infocus offers just such an adapter: http://www.infocus.com/Accessories/Cable/SP_VESA_ADPT_R.aspx
But if you look hard enough, you can probably find something similar for a lot less.

BTW - Infocus offers just such an adapter: http://www.infocus.com/Accessories/C...SA_ADPT_R.aspx

Thanks dude, this is exactly the kind of info I was looking for - 2 questions though:
This adapter has female RCA plugs, shouldn't they be male RCA plugs?
Is there much diference in video quality between M1 and component connection?

Taz123,
Look at this cable from monoprice (they have different lengths): http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10235&cs_id=1023503&p_id=2173&seq=1&format=2

Thanks dude, this is exactly the kind of info I was looking for - 2 questions though:
This adapter has female RCA plugs, shouldn't they be male RCA plugs?
Is there much diference in video quality between M1 and component connection?The assumption here is that you combine this dongle with a M-to-M component video cable. The Monoprice cable in the above post will go from the computer to the projector all by itself. For a lot less money. I have a few Monoprice cables myself, and they are of excellent quality.

There should be no difference in PQ using the VGA->M1-DA cable vs. the VGA->RCA cable.

Sorry if this has been addressed already, but I've spent several hours searching and haven't run across it yet.

My 4805 was fine...until I upgraded the firmware. It just wasn't as sharp as before. So, I went back to the original, but it's still somewhat fuzzy looking. I wish I could control-z life like computers. :-)

I haven't watched many dvds yet, but primarily it's tv that's off. I'm using only composite cables (older DirectTV box - upgrading next month). My receiver is an Onkyo TX-SR505. Everything is the same, except the PQ.

Any help greatly appreciated!
Nora

Sorry if this has been addressed already, but I've spent several hours searching and haven't run across it yet.

My 4805 was fine...until I upgraded the firmware. It just wasn't as sharp as before. So, I went back to the original, but it's still somewhat fuzzy looking. I wish I could control-z life like computers. :-)

I haven't watched many dvds yet, but primarily it's tv that's off. I'm using only composite cables (older DirectTV box - upgrading next month). My receiver is an Onkyo TX-SR505. Everything is the same, except the PQ.

Any help greatly appreciated!
NoraIf I had to guess (which I am), then I'd say installing the firmware reset your customizations. You'll need to re-calibrate the projector to your viewing preferences.

Agreed. Recalibrate the machine. Then definitely recalibrate again when you get the component/HDMI cable box. The difference should be tremendous once you do the upgrade.

Thanks you guys, that's what I thought. The only problem is that I either lucked upon the settings that made it more clear, or when Best Buy did their finishing with the wiring, they knew what settings worked best and set them. However, I doubt that's what happened as they left wires just sticking out of the wall and ceiling...whole other story...I'm waiting to cool down to call once again to complain (it's a very sore subject for me). I've played around with settings, but I think I'm going in circles. Is there a service menu that would be faster? I'm just not sure of "which" settings could be off. Again, any help appreciated!
Nora

I've been successful in the past in getting color wheels and light tunnels for the 4805 from my supplier. (Sorry, a tech-only resource). I'll be checking later this week to see if they are still available.

I've been trying to fix the light tunnel on my 4805. The glue did indeed give way. The problem I'm having is lining up the tunnel with the opening in the clip which holds it in place.

Looking at the clip from the color wheel side, and looking through the rectangular box cut into it, what should I be seeing? Meaning, should I see no edges of the light tunnel? This is difficult to try and explain.

Bascially, I glued the tunnel back together but I'm still getting a shadow (albeit now a straighter one). Should the tunnel be glued together loosely enough (meaning the pieces not square to one another) to create a tunnel opening rectangle that is larger than the rectangular opening of the clip?

I've been trying to fix the light tunnel on my 4805. The glue did indeed give way. The problem I'm having is lining up the tunnel with the opening in the clip which holds it in place.

Looking at the clip from the color wheel side, and looking through the rectangular box cut into it, what should I be seeing? Meaning, should I see no edges of the light tunnel? This is difficult to try and explain.

Bascially, I glued the tunnel back together but I'm still getting a shadow (albeit now a straighter one). Should the tunnel be glued together loosely enough (meaning the pieces not square to one another) to create a tunnel opening rectangle that is larger than the rectangular opening of the clip?

I had the same issue and I believe it's from gluing the tunnel back together in a slightly smaller dimension. It would only take fractions of a mm for it to be a problem. I took my tunnel back out, flipped it so light passed through the opposite direction, and that seemed to cure my problem.

-J

Since it's been 4-5 years item on 4805, can anyone share how many hours is your record for the bulb life before it died ?

And what is your habits that extend or shorten the bulb life ?

Thanks before...

how many hours is your record for the bulb life before it died ?4500+And what is your habits that extend or shorten the bulb life ?Minimize the number of lamp strikes! Don't turn it off if you are returning to watch it again within 2 hours - every lamp strike is equivalent to 2 hours wear on the lamp.

4500+Minimize the number of lamp strikes! Don't turn it off if you are returning to watch it again within 2 hours - every lamp strike is equivalent to 2 hours wear on the lamp.

Interesting about the lamp strike. I never knew that. Is this documented somewhere?
-J

Interesting about the lamp strike. I never knew that. Is this documented somewhere?
-J

Yes. Many places.

4500+Minimize the number of lamp strikes! Don't turn it off if you are returning to watch it again within 2 hours - every lamp strike is equivalent to 2 hours wear on the lamp.

Actually when I think about it, it's really makes sense.
My bathroom bulb always died first compared to my bedroom bulb eventhough the later has much more hours usage.

(I only use the light when using the bathroom, while bedroom light always on during the night)

Just knew about it also, from IN72 thread, thanks to Spyder info.
It turns out our effort to save a few minutes of bulb life actually a bad decision

Or anyone has different experience ?
I mean, use the PJ bulb as neccesarry (with lots of strikes), but still manage to get 3000+ hours ?

Pls share ...

Since it's been 4-5 years item on 4805, can anyone share how many hours is your record for the bulb life before it died ?

And what is your habits that extend or shorten the bulb life ?

Thanks before...I've had my 4805 since the fall of 2004 (bought it for the Red Sox World Series). I'm still on the original bulb. I have no idea how many hours. A few notes about my viewing habits...

- I watch the PJ very infrequently. Maybe 5 times per month, and only a few hours at a time.
- I always have the low-power mode selected.
- I always do a soft power-off and leave the rocker-switch on. If I know I'm going to be out of the house for more than a few hours, then I will turn off the rocker switch (I do this because once or twice I have come home after a power-outage to find that the projector has turned itself back on after a power cycle).

At this point, I plan to replace the projector with something HD once the bulb finally does go.

Hi all from Italy! :D :D
I hope not be OT 'cause I really need your help and your experience with this VP.

I got on ebay a 4805 with crashed lamp.... but I can't find an original lamp kit for less then 300€ (more or less 470$) = to much for me. :eek:

I want to replace the lamp with another alogen lamp that can fit... I mean the real little lamp, glued inside the mirror reflector of the lamp cartridge.

Can you give me the specifics of the original lamp (i.e. type, Volteage, Watts an so on) and in case a picture?

Thanx any can help in advance
Ciao all, degas74 :) :)


In case you would an aircraft of ours just bid: Alitalia is on ebay.it :(

I want to replace the lamp with another alogen lamp that can fit... I mean the real little lamp, glued inside the mirror reflector of the lamp cartridge.

Can you give me the specifics of the original lamp (i.e. type, Volteage, Watts an so on) and in case a picture?The lamp (bulb) is not a traditional filament-type bulb, it is an arc lamp, which has no filament. I think your best bet is to look for a bulb kit for a similar InFocus-brand projector, and swap out the whole bulb+reflector assembly.

The only model with the same lamp is the X2.

And you can't use any other type of lamp, the ballast fires the lamp with a very high voltage and settles down to the running voltage. And there are other factors in the lamp besides voltage and watts.

Hi Folks,

I bought the VGA to RCA monoprice cable that was recommended, but I am unable to get a picture from my laptop. I tried every freakin combination and no picture - help.:confused:

Hi Folks,

I bought the VGA to RCA monoprice cable that was recommended, but I am unable to get a picture from my laptop. I tried every freakin combination and no picture - help.:confused:What resolution and refresh rate are you using? Try starting out with 640x480@60Hz. If that works, then try upping the resolution a little at a time until you get where you want to be. I think the key here may be to keep the refresh rate @ 60Hz. There's no point going higher because the native refresh of the projector's DLP technology is 60Hz.

Also, are you manually selecting the component video input, or are you relying on the projector to auto-detect it? Try selecting it manually.

Come to think of it, you might also need to poke around in the settings for your graphics adapter and enable "sync on green". The VGA standard is actually 5 wires: 3 that carry the color picture information and 2 that carry the rastor synchronization information. Graphics card have the ability to superimpose the 2 synchronization signals on top of the green video signal for 3-wire applications like this.

Hope this helps.

You might want to poke around at some of the HTPC forums, too. Probably lots of useful, applicable advice there.

I've had my 4805 since November 2005, about 2.5 years now. Original lamp still works great, but for some reason my lamp hours counter reset by itself at some point, with no input from me. Currently my counter says 270 hours, but it only had a few hundred hours on it before it reset itself. I'd say I have less than 1000 hours on it.

The only issues I've had is seeing a slight flicker on the letterbox bars of 2.35:1 films (isn't there a firmware fix for this or something?) and awhile back I had a squeeling noise which I think was from the color wheel, but this only happened a couple of times and then went away. It's been probably 2-3 months since the color wheel made any noise.

Mine is also only used 4-5 times a month, sometimes less. I only have a DVD player attached to it, no DirecTV box or anything like that, so it's for movies only.

Glad to see there are still users for the 4805. I have one with about 230 hours on it. I have not used it for 1.5 years. I want to set it up again, it is just that I have not had time since starting grad school (bad excuse, I know). Anyways, How many of you are still using yours and loving it still? From what I remember, the resolution was fantastic and I always felt liek I was at the movies when watching it. Since I don't have time to really read the threads anylonger, what new projectors are the best to purchase? Are there any new ones on the market that use really cheap bulbs now, eleminating the disposability of the projectors once the lamps burn out?
Thanks,
HEO

I have [an SP4805] with about 230 hours on it. I have not used it for 1.5 years. I want to set it up againGo for it!!

There really aren't any better projectors in that class (with the possible exception of the InFocus IN72).

Sounds like you have lots of life left in it!

If you insist on replacing it, PM me. I'll take it. ;)

If I end up getting something else, I will definetly email you. What are you currently using?

What are you currently using?I have a Yamaha DPX-1300 and an Infocus IN72 on a 92" Stewart Grayhawk screen.

I have a Yamaha DPX-1300...

:eek: Somebody got a nice bonus this year! :eek:

Somebody got a nice bonus this year!Actually I've had coming up on two years.

I got it after InFocus f****d up the IN76 AVS special I helped organize. :mad:

I returned my IN76 and got the Yamaha. Very nice projector.

But I still use my IN72 1:1 mapped with my Bravo player for DVDs !! :cool:

Ciao all again! :)
I'm enjoying the forum and I'd like to apply your advices about the projector fixing and the lamp life test but... I STILL CAN'T USE IT! :mad:
I'm still looking for a lamp (any lamp I could use, with external power in case) just to test the functioning of the SP. I used 2-3 lamps (12V with the same position as the original bulb into the reflector shield) but I can't see anything getting out from the projector... I doubt the lamp is the only problem. :(

I'm accepting the idea of risk spending money to replace the bulb, hoping the Sp will work... :-( nobody will refund me anyway! :(:(

So, please guys, could you help me showing me the best links of lamp sellers?
If you know sellers in Italy they'll be my favorite for delivery time and costs but I'm looking for the best price at all even I have to wait some more days.
Where the Sp4805 bulbs/lamps are cheapest?? :confused::rolleyes:

Thanx all can help me and I'm looking forward to actively join your discussions.:D

Saluti, Mattia

I've had mine for about 2 years now and I have about 2400 hours on the bulb. I use my pj just like a regular tv so it comes on about 7pm and goes off about 10pm m-f. Weekend it can be on for 10 hours each day. Not that I am sitting there watching it like that cuz my office is next to my HT so many times I may have a sporting event on but I'm in my office on the computer. My 4805 has been a real workhorse. When I feed it a blue ray disc from my ps3 the pic is just outstanding. My thought was to get a new 1080p pj once the bulb goes but the way this thing runs it could take another year or two. Big thumbs up to Infocus for such a great product, and they put it on the market at the right time to boot.

Whew! I'm glad some of the old-timers are still here in this thread!!

My 4805 is now about 250 hours into its second bulb and I have seen the dreaded yellow indicator of light tunnel disease. It started in the lower right corner and slowly crept up the right side. It's still negligable - but now would be a good time to gather the info to fix it.

Can someone please re-post for me the proper links to all the info I'll need to do this dreaded task??? I'm on a dial-up and searching is long and difficult.

-Wayne

(my 1st bulb is alive at 3000 - it was just getting too dim)

256 pages of great info here !!!!

I almost went blind reading the last 32 pages of the thread.

Any way I am a newbie here looking for some elder guru to tell me which projector to buy as a replacement for the 4805 that has a bad bulb AND a broken color wheel. I don't think it's wise to spend $600+ USD on a used piece of equipment.

We liked the 4805 and were happy with the picture quality.

So what we need to know is "What brand or model will give similar quality, better service life and cost less than $600 USD? " We could stretch the price a bit if it's really needed but I don't have a problem using a "cheap" unit as long as it gives good results.

Also, all we use it for is to watch TV 2-3 hours a night

Thanks, john and Sue in Odessa

I think your main choice at $600 for the same IQ or even better... will be the IN72...thats only my opinion of course. At $600 you may find some 720 but to be honest you will sacrifice the 4805 IQ for more pixels...not a trade I was willing to do.

We liked the 4805 and were happy with the picture quality.

So what we need to know is "What brand or model will give similar quality, better service life and cost less than $600 USD?Look for the InFocus IN72 which is the replacement for the SP4805!! $700 at Circuit City .. less elsewhere if you look hard (Froogle.com).

I dunno if i'm allowed to mention or ask this here, if not im sorry, i'll happily delete the post if so...

I live in china, and after contacting 10 supposed infocus companies, I finally found a company that works with the infocus warehouse in singapore. My colorwheel has been buzzing for 2+ years and finally shattered a mess inside my 4805. I contacted the company and got a new colorwheel for less than $150. I don't know if thats cheap or not, but it seemed worth it since I just replaced the bulb a couple months ago and didnt want to spend another $600+ on a new pj.

Before I found where I can get the colorwheel here in China, i searched for weeks, ebay, infocus in the USA (where i come from), etc, and basically i was all out unable to find the colorwheel. So basically I'm just asking, do you think what I paid is ok, and if so, would it be ok to help out other people who would want one? Maybe if anyone finds it worth it, I can arrange contact information with the company here, or help them order it. It took about 2 weeks to get here. Just wanna see if I can help, since it seems like a super hard (and expensive if found on ebay) part to find.

[QUOTE=Spixe;13761549]
I contacted the company and got a new colorwheel for less than $150.



I would LOVE to buy a new color wheel for $150 USD. And I thank you for taking the time to share the info with everyone. Please PM me here or send the info to jnsnwt@hotmail.com

Thanks again !

Great find but why not just post the part -number, price and contact info here?

Well it's a chinese company, they don't speak english, so unless you speak chinese (mandarin) or know someone who does, and then can arrange transfering money to a chinese bank account, etc, then it seems like it'd be a bit difficult, so I'm offering to be the middle man if anyone needs help. But i'll post the info none the less. +86-13901622836. Color wheel is 色轮, and InFocus is 富可视. Name of the guy is 周志宏. Part # I have no idea, sorry. Goodluck guys.

I'm offering to be the middle man if anyone needs help.That's very generous of you. Thank you!

I hope you do not regret making the offer! ;)

Guys,

Probably what i´m requesting shall be arround here, but finding it in 257 thread pages its nearly impossible...

So if anyone can help me out, i need to calibrate the SP4805 parameters so i can get the best from this projector.
My source is a denon DVD-3910 connected via Component cable , i will need the best from the component parameters, colour, and temperature.

I use this PJ in a dark room , projecting to a wall of about 100" image.

thanks for your time
Paulo

Guys,

Probably what i´m requesting shall be arround here, but finding it in 257 thread pages its nearly impossible...

So if anyone can help me out, i need to calibrate the SP4805 parameters so i can get the best from this projector.
My source is a denon DVD-3910 connected via Component cable , i will need the best from the component parameters, colour, and temperature.

I use this PJ in a dark room , projecting to a wall of about 100" image.

thanks for your time
Paulo

Leave everything alone...assuming you haven't messed with the settings. The 4805 over component is pretty much good to go right out of the box.

If you HAVE played around, grab an Avia disc, or at least use the THX Optimzer on one of the Pixar DVDs or some other disc that has it.

I rearranged my home theater recently, and last night was very proud of myself for devising what may be the cheapest (yet still very effective) ceiling-mount for my 4805....

Since my basement is finished with a suspended ceiling, I simply removed a tile and replaced it with a pine board to which I'd attached my 4805 using the 3 mounting holes and bolts of the appropriate size and thread.

Total cost < $5.

I rearranged my home theater recently, and last night was very proud of myself for devising what may be the cheapest (yet still very effective) ceiling-mount for my 4805....

Since my basement is finished with a suspended ceiling, I simply removed a tile and replaced it with a pine board to which I'd attached my 4805 using the 3 mounting holes and bolts of the appropriate size and thread.

Total cost < $5.

I did the same thing in the conference room where I work with a piece of plywood except I added two things:

1) Screw-in eyelets on the top of the plywood and wire cable running from them to the beams above in case the ceiling grid ever gives out.

2) I cut and adhered a melamine sheet to visible side of the plywood so it matches the other ceiling tiles (more or less).

Hi Everyone,

My 4805 is still going strong (1100 Hrs on first bulb). The ND2 filter is still on.
Running with original firmware as I did not had any issues those warrant firmware update.
I am tempted to upgrade to 1080p especially looking at the effective price of Sanyo z2000.
Has anyone upgraded to an LCD from 4805, how is the experience? I wanted to get a feel from fellow 4805 owners.

Thanks in advance for your response.

...Has anyone upgraded to an LCD from 4805, how is the experience? I wanted to get a feel from fellow 4805 owners...

LCD has come a long way in the past few years, but I still can't stand the look of it on anything larger than my 32" computer monitor. DLP is still, imo, the way to go on projectors until some more imrovements are made.

Have you considered taking a leap to 720p until things equal out a bit more?

LCD has come a long way in the past few years, but I still can't stand the look of it on anything larger than my 32" computer monitor. DLP is still, imo, the way to go on projectors until some more imrovements are made.

Have you considered taking a leap to 720p until things equal out a bit more?

Thanks spyder...

Have you seen z2000 or is it the general opinion about LCD PJs? Z2000 seem to have rave reviews everywhere and was surprised with your response.

As I mentioned 4805 is going strong and the only things appealed me for replacement were the native 1080p and almost the same price of 4805 when I bought it 3+ years ago.

Thanks again..

I recently upgraded from the 4805 and after lots of research my list was like this:
Infocus 7210
IN76
HC3100
HC3000
I got lucky and found the Infocus 7210 and couldnt be happier. I got a complete upgrade over my 4805 and not just more pixels. All my choices were DLP as I am in the same boat as spyder....I still feel DLP offers the best IQ pound for pound.
Right now the best deal, IMHO is to find older 720p DLPs that were top of the line 1 couple of years ago, most of them featuring DC3.

the best deal, IMHO is to find older 720p DLPs that were top of the lineI completely agree ... I didn't get a particularly good "deal" at the time but couldn't be happier with my Yamaha DPX1300 !!

But for SD-DVD, I still use my IN72 with my D1!! The SP4805 would be virtually as good. The old combo still can't be beat!

http://gray.mb.ca/AVS/theater-hookup.jpg

I completely agree ... I didn't get a particularly good "deal" at the time but couldn't be happier with my Yamaha DPX1300 !!

But for SD-DVD, I still use my IN72 with my D1!! The SP4805 would be virtually as good. The old combo still can't be beat!

http://gray.mb.ca/AVS/theater-hookup.jpg

So do you have 2 rooms, swap out the projector in 1 room or have both mounted, how does that work for you?

I am still pre-HD, love my movies and built a theater room. Started with a 4805 which just started getting the light tunnel issue so I ordered an IN72 as a direct replacement. When I upgrade (thinking about the IN8x) will my standard def DVD still look as good. I am still not sure what all the pro's and con's are, do I simply use a DVD player to 'up-scale' to 720 or 1080 for that type of projector? Most of my collect is standard DVD so I dont want to go HD for a handful of movies and have most of my viewing at a less quaility, if that makes sense?

Thanks for any advice!

Thats a hard one to answer. In my personal experience I dont watch DVDs anymore...I just cant sit down without been distracted by the lack of detail...HD is that good. With my 7210 I can say that DVDs do look a bit worst than with my 4805...is the old garbage in garbage out...the 7210 is not forgiving with bad material as its very revealing.
While I havent tweaked my DVDs they way I did some time ago with my 4805, I really dont feel compelled to so...I just wait for HD versions of the movies I want to see.
Of course its all a matter of preferences...

I recently upgraded from the 4805 and after lots of research my list was like this:
Infocus 7210
IN76
HC3100
HC3000
I got lucky and found the Infocus 7210 and couldnt be happier. I got a complete upgrade over my 4805 and not just more pixels. All my choices were DLP as I am in the same boat as spyder....I still feel DLP offers the best IQ pound for pound.
Right now the best deal, IMHO is to find older 720p DLPs that were top of the line 1 couple of years ago, most of them featuring DC3.

Luis - can you give some examples of the older 720p DLPs that were top of the line a couple years ago? My 4805 is starting to not look so good to me after converting all my TV's over to HD. I almost jumped on the woot 7210 deal in Jan, but didn't. Now I am feeling regret.

Thanks spyder...

Have you seen z2000 or is it the general opinion about LCD PJs? Z2000 seem to have rave reviews everywhere and was surprised with your response.

As I mentioned 4805 is going strong and the only things appealed me for replacement were the native 1080p and almost the same price of 4805 when I bought it 3+ years ago.

Thanks again..

Sorry, no first-hand experince with the Z2000, however, I have seen quite a few LCDs and am, so far, unimpressed. Keep in mind that the "rave reviews" are often from those that already prefer LCD for some reason or those that don't mind making sacrifices at the altar of resolution, no matter the cost.

As others have stated, the 7210 is a fine choice that comes in at 1/4 of what it was intended to be priced at just a short time ago.

http://www.nikkoamerica.com/nhe/page_graphics/projector.jpg ABOUT NIKKO (http://www.nikkoamerica.com/about.html)

WATCH VIDEO (http://www.nikkoamerica.com/nhe/dvd_projector_video.html)

OMG thats just TOO COOL!

buzz, try looking for InFocus 7210 , Sharp 12K mkII , BenQ 8720...etc.

do you have 2 rooms, swap out the projector in 1 room or have both mounted, how does that work for you?I have both projectors ceiling mounted (Infocus above/Yamaha below) sharing my 92" Grayhawk screen in my dedicated theatre.

Everything is seamlessly controlled by my Harmony 880 and works great!

I have both projectors ceiling mounted (Infocus above/Yamaha below) sharing my 92" Grayhawk screen in my dedicated theatre.

Everything is seamlessly controlled by my Harmony 880 and works great!

That sounds really cool, I am tempted to try the same, I guess you have a custom bracket/mount for the Yamaha to hang under the infoucs?

Also not sure if this would be better posted in the IN72 thread but has anyone else gone from a 4805 to the IN72 and used the M1-USB cable from the SP4805 to do a firmware upgrade on the IN72 or should it be compatible.....just opened my IN72 and it doesn't come with that cable like the 4805 did and I am on firmware 2.6 rather than the latest 3.0. Thanks!

BTW that R2D2 unit is way cool, might be a little too much at nearly $3k but would be a cool party gimick, love to have one rolling around in my bar area projecting a light show LOL!

OMG thats just TOO COOL!




Good find Cavu... This is freakin crazy

Since it's been 4-5 years item on 4805, can anyone share how many hours is your record for the bulb life before it died ?

And what is your habits that extend or shorten the bulb life ?

Thanks before...I've owned my 4805 for just over three years and have >5100 hours on my first bulb.

I turn it on just once a day -- NO EXCEPTIONS -- even if it runs for up to 16 hours straight from Saturday until the wee hours of Sunday morning. I turn it off with the rocker switch on the projector body (often referred to as a hard power down on this forum). I run it at low power, unless it needs to run at high power for a while to cure any flickering (also discussed on this forum). I clean the bulb filter as recommended, although there's hardly any dust at all when I do. The lack of dust, which is hard to explain in a house with forced hot air, might play a significant role in the extended life of my bulb. If you find a lot of dust when you do clean it, you should clean it more often.

I recently thought that my bulb was dying a slow death, since it was so dim. Turns out that I inadvertently switched to User 3, a darker setting I use for hockey games (too much white!!!), on my universal remote. Everything now is back to normal.

When it dies, I'll get a replacement bulb under my Circuit City warranty, which covers the bulb and cost less than half as much as a new one. I'll be happy if the new one lasts at least half as long.

And one more thing. Do everything that cavu recommends . . . without question :D

When I finished my basement, I had run DVI and components cables through the ceiling. 4805 is using M1-DA adapter at its end on DVI cable and the other end was connected to D1.

My question is, if I can use the same DVI cable as an interconnect when I use HDMI devices using adapters at both ends as below.

HDMIOUT->HDMI_DVI_ADAPTETR-----DVICABLE----DVI_HDMI_ADAPTER->HDMIIN

HDMI-DVI adapter mentioned is one from monoprice.

Will this cause in any loss like can not transmit actual HDMi 1.3 or such?

When I finished my basement, I had run DVI and components cables through the ceiling. 4805 is using M1-DA adapter at its end on DVI cable and the other end was connected to D1.

My question is, if I can use the same DVI cable as an interconnect when I use HDMI devices using adapters at both ends as below.

HDMIOUT->HDMI_DVI_ADAPTETR-----DVICABLE----DVI_HDMI_ADAPTER->HDMIIN

HDMI-DVI adapter mentioned is one from monoprice.

Will this cause in any loss like can not transmit actual HDMi 1.3 or such?

By the time you pay for two adapters at the ends, you could almost pay for a new HDMI 1.3 cable. Would it be possible to attach a new cable to the old one, remove the old cable, and thus, the new one would be installed while the old one is pulled through and removed in one step?

I could be wrong but I thought DVI and HDMI was basically the same thing but packaged differently (electrically speaking as far as the digital video signals). That’s how you can use such an adaptor in the first place so I would not expect you would lose any quality in the picture signal. You are not converting anything other than the socket connection type, also as you are not going to be using the full features of HDMI 1.3/a (HD sound and picture) bandwidth on the DVI cable you have shouldn’t be a problem as it will just be carrying the video data but someone with more expertise needs to cut in here....as spyder stated you may want to concider pulling new cable if possible.


When I finished my basement, I had run DVI and components cables through the ceiling. 4805 is using M1-DA adapter at its end on DVI cable and the other end was connected to D1.

My question is, if I can use the same DVI cable as an interconnect when I use HDMI devices using adapters at both ends as below.

HDMIOUT->HDMI_DVI_ADAPTETR-----DVICABLE----DVI_HDMI_ADAPTER->HDMIIN

HDMI-DVI adapter mentioned is one from monoprice.

Will this cause in any loss like can not transmit actual HDMi 1.3 or such?

By the time you pay for two adapters at the ends, you could almost pay for a new HDMI 1.3 cable. Would it be possible to attach a new cable to the old one, remove the old cable, and thus, the new one would be installed while the old one is pulled through and removed in one step?

Spyder,

One, I already have the two adapters (one is in use with Philips DVD player connecting to DVI cable and then to M1-DA to 4805), and second I can not pull the cable out. Dumb decision, I never put the cable in such a way that it can be pulled out or anything can be added in future. Unless I do something creative (or more like destructive), that's not going to happen.

Hence I want to use the existing DVI cable as is. I feel there should not be a problme, but just wanted to get a confirmation.

I could be wrong but I thought DVI and HDMI was basically the same thing but packaged differently (electrically speaking as far as the digital video signals). That’s how you can use such an adaptor in the first place so I would not expect you would lose any quality in the picture signal. You are not converting anything other than the socket connection type, also as you are not going to be using the full features of HDMI 1.3/a (HD sound and picture) bandwidth on the DVI cable you have shouldn’t be a problem as it will just be carrying the video data but someone with more expertise needs to cut in here....as spyder stated you may want to concider pulling new cable if possible.

Thanks,

I too think the same way. It's just the interconnect and there no change of interface.

Spyder,

One, I already have the two adapters...I feel there should not be a problme, but just wanted to get a confirmation.

You should be fine, but you won't get 1.3 with the current setup without replacing the cable.



Question: What''''s the difference between different versions of HDMI? Would a 1.3 be better than 1.2? Would 1.2b be better than 1.2a?

Answer:

Like any advanced technology, HDMI is a continually progressing and improving system. While HDMI was designed from the start to support advanced features like Full HD 1080p resolution, uncompressed digital audio, and high resolution multi-channel digital formats like Dolby Digital, as the technology improves, enhancements are added to the specifications to ensure proper interoperability between devices.

Most of the enhancements to HDMI until 1.3 were fairly minor and had no effect on the bandwidth. At 1.3 they doubled the throughput in order to support new upcoming features like higher resolutions, deep color, new multi-channel audio formats, etc. So 1.3 cables are required for transmitting this additional data. However, since HDMI versions remain backward and forward compatible, you can still use HDMI devices and cables of differing versions with each other.

Sub revisions denoted by a, b, and c, tend to be minor enhancements or clarifications of the primary changes made in the full revision. They do not effect the bandwidth of the specs so they tend to have little, if any, impact on how cables are made. 1.3b cables are generally ones that were certified later than 1.3a since 1.3b was the most current standard at the time of certification. However, there is no difference between the in terms of capability and compatibility of a 1.3a and a 1.3b cable. The sub revision are more pertainent to hardware and firmware implementation.

You should be fine, but you won't get 1.3 with the current setup without replacing the cable.

I can understand that for the uncompress audio. But will it matter for video?

Thanks for the inputs..

Monoprice says above:

"At 1.3 they doubled the throughput in order to support new upcoming features like higher resolutions, deep color..."

Monoprice says above:

"At 1.3 they doubled the throughput in order to support new upcoming features like higher resolutions, deep color..."

Thanks Spyder.

Just googled and found something interesting and wanted to share. From this it appears that DVI is even forward compatible with resolutions higher than 1080p (by accepting HDMI type B 29 Pin connector).

http://pinouts.ru/VideoCables/hdmi_dvi_cable_pinout.shtml

Thanks Spyder.

Just googled and found something interesting and wanted to share. From this it appears that DVI is even forward compatible with resolutions higher than 1080p (by accepting HDMI type B 29 Pin connector).

http://pinouts.ru/VideoCables/hdmi_dvi_cable_pinout.shtmlNote that that is a dual-channel DVI-D cable. Not all DVI-D cables are dual-channel.

Note that that is a dual-channel DVI-D cable. Not all DVI-D cables are dual-channel.

Yuhoo.. Just checked my (ancient) order and that (http://http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2097&seq=1&format=2) cable is dual link cable from monoprice

Am I good now;)

I thought I knew all their was to know about the 4805.. but whats this I am hearing about updating the firmware? Is that possible or am I scrolling to fast?

Perhaps I should just post this here, doesn't look wise to start a new thread about the 4805

"I've surfed the forums many a times in awe of peoples setups, and have never needed to post.. but today my friends.. is a new day. I need help, my trusty InFocus Sp 4805 that i've had for a few years now was just around passing the 2000 hour mark on the bulb. No problems with it thus far.

A few days ago, I started up my XBox 360, and it went online to run an update, at which point it restarted itself, and upon restart the fan on the 4805 got loud as though the projector had been put into "high power lamp" mode. Furthermore, the bulb went black, and their are no indicator LED's , nor do I get the normal boot up "Beep". This is what I have done so far.

- I've taken the bulb out and confirmed that it was not cracked or destroyed as my brothers went out in a blaze of glory (literally exploded in his projector)

- confirmed that the color wheel is still in place.

My brother has the same model projector. He brought his over today, and I tested his bulb (less than 100 hours on it) yet still

- no boot up "beep"
- no indicator lights
- fan really loud (no matter how long I leave it on

He tried my bulb in his 4805 and determined that my bulb still functioned. So to sum it up

- Bulb went out when xbox rebooted
- fans got louder
- no indicator lights
- no indicator beep
- Bulb has been tested and confirmed functional in a functioning 4805
- im left twidling my thumbs refusing to watch movies on a 32 inch Tv (you seriously get spoiled having a screen the size of a wall. )

(It should be noted that the bulb was cold as the projector had been on for approximately 5 minutes before all of this happened.

Can anyone offer any suggestions? Does anyone know if this http://online.projectordoctor.com/ is a credible repair center ? Brothers and Sisters, I humbly await any response. "

Can anyone offer any suggestions?Have you unplugged the projector and let it sit for a long time before plugging it back in and powering-up? Also, what connection where you using when it "freaked out"? Just a video connection or did you plug in the USB connector, too? You can try re-flashing the firmware. Here's InFocus' support page for the 8405: http://www.infocus.com/support/Products/Projectors/SP4805.aspx. There's a FIRMWARE tab.

Hey goku,

That sounds like the same symptoms I've suffered from for about a year now. Flip the wall switch connected to the projector, fan starts up in high speed mode, no start-up beep and no lamp. I've read that the lamp may not strike if the "door" for the lamp housing is not closed properly so I've checked that but it looked fine.

The good news is that I've never been kept from watching the projector. I've been keeping a log of the number of times I need to turn the projector on and off. Last night, the bulb struck on the first try but that was a rarity. I've had other evenings where I had to turn the projector on and off as many as 57 times before the bulb finally came on. I've just about given up after 20 or 30 times thinking the 4805 had finally given up the ghost but, in the end, it eventually comes on and looks as bright as ever.

I have about 1600 hrs on my bulb. I've used an ND2 filter since day 1. I took it off awhile back but ended up putting it back on after doing a calibration. Once the bulb strikes, the picture is as sweet as ever!

-Redbird

Have you unplugged the projector and let it sit for a long time before plugging it back in and powering-up? Also, what connection where you using when it "freaked out"? Just a video connection or did you plug in the USB connector, too? You can try re-flashing the firmware. Here's InFocus' support page for the 8405: http://www.infocus.com/support/Products/Projectors/SP4805.aspx. There's a FIRMWARE tab.

I had it connected via the components , no USB connected, it just restarted freaked and never came back. I've had it unplugged for a a day or so, and it didn't want to play nice when I tried it again this morning. I am going to try the firmware flash, i'd never known that it could be flashed. Any other suggestions before I give up the ghost ?

Hey goku,

That sounds like the same symptoms I've suffered from for about a year now. Flip the wall switch connected to the projector, fan starts up in high speed mode, no start-up beep and no lamp. I've read that the lamp may not strike if the "door" for the lamp housing is not closed properly so I've checked that but it looked fine.

The good news is that I've never been kept from watching the projector. I've been keeping a log of the number of times I need to turn the projector on and off. Last night, the bulb struck on the first try but that was a rarity. I've had other evenings where I had to turn the projector on and off as many as 57 times before the bulb finally came on. I've just about given up after 20 or 30 times thinking the 4805 had finally given up the ghost but, in the end, it eventually comes on and looks as bright as ever.

I have about 1600 hrs on my bulb. I've used an ND2 filter since day 1. I took it off awhile back but ended up putting it back on after doing a calibration. Once the bulb strikes, the picture is as sweet as ever!

-Redbird


I am going to try that too, the door to the projector thing.. that sounds credible. I'd cry having to restart it 57 times before it lit, as it acted properly when I first got it up until recently.

Well.. no dice .. I can't get it to upgrade if I cant get the lamp lit. I tried it but nothing. Is their any type of "reset function" of this projector? How is Infocus support. are they any good ?


..... help... any suggestions ?

Well.. no dice .. I can't get it to upgrade if I cant get the lamp lit. I tried it but nothing. Is their any type of "reset function" of this projector? How is Infocus support. are they any good ?


..... help... any suggestions ?


When I called about this issue, they only offered to sell me a new lamp. Can't remember the price, I think it was $350 or $380. When I told them that I'm not sure the problem is with the lamp because once it strikes, the picture is great, he told me I could get a full refund (minus return shipping) if the new lamp didn't solve the problem. It wasn't worth it for the price so I decided to keep going as-is until it dies completely then upgrade to a 720p. That was at least 9-10 months ago and the 4805 is still mounted and used two or three evenings a week.

Good luck!

regrettably I know its not my lamp. Im stuck at this point. Do I send it to www.projector-doctor.com ? Anyone ever used this guy ?

regrettably I know its not my lamp. Im stuck at this point. Do I send it to www.projector-doctor.com ? Anyone ever used this guy ?Out of curiosity, are you doing a hard power-up (with the rocker-switch) or a soft power-up (with the remote)? Do they behave any differently?

I have 11612 hours on my original bulb , only do hard shut down , never turn on when hot or at least wait a 1/2 hr. Color wheel replaced under warr. at about 6000 hrs. Was going to get one of the vp12s4's recently available but missed it . probably get hd65 instead .
bravo d1,pioneer vps1015,jbl 4311b frt and center,epi 110 surround and rear surround, 2 jbl subs,wilsonart dw 110"diag, dedicated room

I have 11612 hours on my original bulb:eek:

I thought my 4600+ hrs was good. Sheesh!

Yes amazing isn't it cavu, nice cost per hour of enjoyment.Only reason i'm looking for a new proj is that the color wheel noise has returned.
Any thought's on the hd65 as replacement. i'll put a nd2 filter on it and set it up. one reason for the choice is the offset at 23 works well for me . room is 14x26 with a 7'2" ceiling on a 110 dw screen. Any other suggestions in dlp under a grand?
Thank you for all your great info over the years cavu it has been put to good use.
russ

...Any other suggestions in dlp under a grand?...

Mitsu HC1500u
Mitsu HD1000U
InFocus 7210
InFocus IN76

(If you can find them)

Out of curiosity, are you doing a hard power-up (with the rocker-switch) or a soft power-up (with the remote)? Do they behave any differently?

Im using the rocker switch, I never thought to try the remote. I will try that tonight and post.

Any thought's on the hd65 as replacement.I saw the Costco version with a 92" screen for about $949 and thought it looked very interesting. It sure is a tiny projector!

Yes amazing isn't it cavu, nice cost per hour of enjoyment. Only reason i'm looking for a new proj is that the color wheel noise has returned.


Count me as someone who also finds it amazing that you were able to get so many hours on a 4805 that has had problems with it's colorwheel.

This exact situation happened to me tonight, and I mean exactly, let me know if you find anything out.

Infocus's service was great with replacing the colorwheel, i thought i was just out of warr. when it started screaming though it didnt break up. i called they checked and told me i had two months left ,gave me the return info, sent it to kentucky, had it back in two weeks all repaired. on the work ticket they called it a [tsunami]. the bulb is still working now but with the return of the noise Don't use it much. maybe I'll just leave it on and see how far it goe's!!!!

I fixed my light tunnel. When I opened it up, sure enough the mirrors had collapsed and I glued them back together and no more black shadow on my screen. Now my picture is smaller than it should be. Can anyone tell me what I might have done wrong please? I don't know what to do now. The picture looks beautiful just too small. It won't adjust with the remote or repositioning the projector. Please help! If anyone knows what I did wrong, please e-mail me at shellyc46@aol.com Thanks :eek:

I fixed my light tunnel. When I opened it up, sure enough the mirrors had collapsed and I glued them back together and no more black shadow on my screen. Now my picture is smaller than it should be. Can anyone tell me what I might have done wrong please? I don't know what to do now. The picture looks beautiful just too small. It won't adjust with the remote or repositioning the projector. Please help! If anyone knows what I did wrong, please e-mail me at shellyc46@aol.com Thanks :eek:Are you aware that there are manual focus and zoom adjustments on the collar of the lens? Did you not get things snapped fully into place when you re-assembled the projector?

I tried turning the outside rings that focus and it won't enlarge the picture but just a tiny bit. My picture is about half the size it should be if not less

Alright new question, but regarding the same problem. I have read somewhere that the 4805 wont start if the lamp door is open. My question is "What sensor or switch is their that tells the projector that the door is closed ? Im considering that as a possibility here. Any help ?

nevermind, scratch that.. .I found the switch, and played with it, and it did stop the fan from running, but did not resolve the problem when I pressed the switch. Im yankin at straws here guys... Im trying to consider all possibilities before giving it up to projectordoctor.com or even infocus. I don't want to pay them for something stupid. Whats the deal with the faulty power supply that I've read about. Is that a consistent problem with these ?

Just out of curiosity, what fee is this "projector doctor" quoting you?

It would be a $65 diagnosis fee, at which point they would let me know how much the repair would cost and apply the $65 to the repair should I opt for it.

Ouch! $65 + shipping + a completely unknown additional cost is far too much risk for a minimal and questionably possible reward, imo. Who knows? You could end up with a $500 repair bill on a unit that simply isn't worth that much anymore! :(

At this point, I'd highly recommend you start looking at an upgrade unit such as some of the ones I mentioned just a few posts earlier. They are all capable and highly regarded projectors with reasonable prices. As an alternative, you could look for a replacement 4805 unit...but only if ALL of these apply; you're absolutely certain without a doubt that it's not your lamp, and only if that bulb has fairly low hours and the 4805 replacement unit doesn't cost you much, like somewhere in the neighborhood of $50.

If ALL of the above fits, and you're intent upon keeping your 4805, and you (or anyone else that's reading this, I suppose) is up to a technical challenge, then I have a 4805 sitting around with a blown color wheel that apparently works fine otherwise. You'd have to swap the CW from your unit to mine, which is certainly doable, as shown below. You can click on the follwing link and see if you think either yourself or someone you know is capable of this procedure: https://home.comcast.net/~elderjex/ebay/colorwheel/colorwheel.htm

If you, or anyone else, is interested, send me a PM.

There is a NIB 4805 on eBay (#220242789644) closing in 1 hour currently at $350.

UPDATE: sold for $407 !

Is their a way to speak to someone real at infocus ? I am on the phone with Shadash (this is honestly the best I could interpret his name) and he is of foreign descent and is obviously reading from a technical manual of some sort.

He quietly listened, or acted too and told me to "

hold the power button for 15 seconds -
In which I said " their is no power button"

Then he told me to reseat the lamp...

Damn.. I want the NIB

Anyway... how do I contact someone who knows ?

Is their a way to speak to someone real at infocus ? I am on the phone with Shadash (this is honestly the best I could interpret his name) and he is of foreign descent and is obviously reading from a technical manual of some sort.

He quietly listened, or acted too and told me to "

hold the power button for 15 seconds -
In which I said " their is no power button"

Then he told me to reseat the lamp...

Damn.. I want the NIB

Anyway... how do I contact someone who knows ?

I would ask for a supervisor. They should bump you up to level 2 support or at least put someone with a brain on the phone. Good luck.

I said " their is no power button"There is on the remote.

For the sake of giving everyone their due consideration, I will definitely try the remote today. I dont want it to be something stupid. Thank you for the suggestion.

Well my color wheel finally broke after over 3 years with the 4805. I had the light tunnel replaced under warranty and went through a few bulbs but overall it was a great experience.

I know everyone here asks for replacement suggestions and I have started to look at some of the recommendations on the thread already. Does anyone have a good under $1000 list of new Home Theater projectors that still have DVI and component video input. I am running my HTPC through the DVI on the 4805 now (or I was anyway).

The Optoma EP1690 seems to be a good candidate though it appears to be focused on the business projector side. Does anyone have any home theater experience with it?

Does anyone have a good under $1000 list of new Home Theater projectors that still have DVI and component video input?

Just one page ago, I said:

Mitsu HC1500u
Mitsu HD1000U
InFocus 7210
InFocus IN76

HDMI to DVI adapter costs $8 at monoprice.com.

Just one page ago, I said:

Mitsu HC1500u
Mitsu HD1000U
InFocus 7210
InFocus IN76

HDMI to DVI adapter costs $8 at monoprice.com.

Thanks. I did see your post. Does that adapter work with any HDMI connection or just certain types/brands? I haven't had any equipemnt with HDMI so I am unclear on the compatibility.

I haven't had any equipemnt with HDMI so I am unclear on the compatibility.Same signal - different plugs.

Thanks. I did see your post. Does that adapter work with any HDMI connection or just certain types/brands? I haven't had any equipemnt with HDMI so I am unclear on the compatibility.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041902&p_id=2029&seq=1&format=2

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041902&p_id=2080&seq=1&format=2

Looks like I overshot the cost estimate by almost double, as the adapters are only a measly $4! :) I was thinking of the M1 cables when I gave the $8 price quote. Sorry about that. :o