door closed but thanks. Any other suggestions. I appreciate all the help

I tried turning the outside rings that focus and it won't enlarge the picture but just a tiny bit. My picture is about half the size it should be if not less When I put the light tunnel mirrors back in after glueing them back together, I pushed the light tunnel into the adjacent little black circle. Is it possible that I either pushed it in too far or is it possible that I glued the mirrors too close together and the image is now smaller? I am lost at what the problem is. Please help!:eek:

When I put the light tunnel mirrors back in after glueing them back together, I pushed the light tunnel into the adjacent little black circle. Is it possible that I either pushed it in too far or is it possible that I glued the mirrors too close together and the image is now smaller? I am lost at what the problem is. Please help!:eek:I can't imagine the light tunnel itself would have anything to do with the size of the image. The only thing I can think of is that you did not get the lens assembly put back in quite right, resulting in the wrong focal length relative to the DLP mirror and a smaller picture.

Can you explain that to me please. I am getting ready to take it back apart and I could use some pretty specific instructions on what this problem couild be and how I'd fix it. Do I need to reglue the mirrors apart and glue them back together to make sure I have a perfect rectangle with the mirrors? Please help! Thanks

If I snap the focus lens back off and make sure everything is lined up and it still doesn't help, where do I go then?

Are you certain you don't have the lens in backwards? Just shooting in the dark here.

Hi
If you're unlucky and you need to reglue the tunnel, one option is to use a stick to form up the right size, 3mm X 4.2mm.
Here's a link to an old post
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=10693272&postcount=7036
Hope you get a result.

PS
Anyone found a source of colorwheels by any chance?
Regards Gary

Perhaps I should just post this here, doesn't look wise to start a new thread about the 4805

"I've surfed the forums many a times in awe of peoples setups, and have never needed to post.. but today my friends.. is a new day. I need help, my trusty InFocus Sp 4805 that i've had for a few years now was just around passing the 2000 hour mark on the bulb. No problems with it thus far.

A few days ago, I started up my XBox 360, and it went online to run an update, at which point it restarted itself, and upon restart the fan on the 4805 got loud as though the projector had been put into "high power lamp" mode. Furthermore, the bulb went black, and their are no indicator LED's , nor do I get the normal boot up "Beep". This is what I have done so far.

- I've taken the bulb out and confirmed that it was not cracked or destroyed as my brothers went out in a blaze of glory (literally exploded in his projector)

- confirmed that the color wheel is still in place.

My brother has the same model projector. He brought his over today, and I tested his bulb (less than 100 hours on it) yet still

- no boot up "beep"
- no indicator lights
- fan really loud (no matter how long I leave it on

He tried my bulb in his 4805 and determined that my bulb still functioned. So to sum it up

- Bulb went out when xbox rebooted
- fans got louder
- no indicator lights
- no indicator beep
- Bulb has been tested and confirmed functional in a functioning 4805
- im left twidling my thumbs refusing to watch movies on a 32 inch Tv (you seriously get spoiled having a screen the size of a wall. )

(It should be noted that the bulb was cold as the projector had been on for approximately 5 minutes before all of this happened.

Can anyone offer any suggestions? Does anyone know if this http://online.projectordoctor.com/ is a credible repair center ? Brothers and Sisters, I humbly await any response. "


So im still knee deep in resolution for this issue. A friend stumbled upon a copy of the service manual which is pointing all my problems at the power supply. I basically notes that I should replace the power supply. So I've a few questions if anyone is game.

- How much does a new power supply for this infocus cost?
- Can it be acquired through anyone other than infocus ?
- Is their a 2 stage, or are their multiple power supplies (because the fans turn on, just not the lamp or LED's) ?
- Is this fuse on the power supply replaceable and what type of fuse is it?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

So im still knee deep in resolution for this issue. A friend stumbled upon a copy of the service manual which is pointing all my problems at the power supply. I basically notes that I should replace the power supply. So I've a few questions if anyone is game.
m
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Logged in after many days to see the solution to a similar problem. When I hit the power switch, the fan makes a loud noise. Indicator light does not come on and neither does the bulb. If I switch it off and on it works fine. Have to do this cycling either once or twice. Problem cropped up about 2 months back and happens once out of every three times I switch the pj on.
If you can live with the power off-on cycle may be you don't need to spend money on fixing it.
Does anybody else have a solution to the problem as opposed to a work-around ?

When I hit the power switch, the fan makes a loud noise. Indicator light does not come on and neither does the bulb. If I switch it off and on it works fine.Are you using the manual switch on the side of the projector?? I never, ever use this switch as the my projectors are ceiling mounted. I even forget it has a manual switch.

What happens if you use the remote to turn it on/off instead??!! This leaves the projector "alive", in a standby mode, instead of killing it altogether.

Are you using the manual switch on the side of the projector?? I never, ever use this switch as the my projectors are ceiling mounted. I even forget it has a manual switch.

What happens if you use the remote to turn it on/off instead??!! This leaves the projector "alive", in a standby mode, instead of killing it altogether.


No dice unfortunately, the remote does not get a response out of the projector. I've put it back together, and I am going to take it to a friends father who owns a repair shop and see if he has any luck with it. Im sure its just the power supply. What does that cost, does any one know ?

Will I be shot if I open a 4805 question outside this thread? I want to ask about the power supply, and feel that the question may be missed in the depth of this thread.

After reading Avs For 5 years this is my first post. My 4805 has 2500+ hrs. Never had a problem until the light tube problem reared its ugly head. I was able to repair it. When I turned on the pj I could see that I was successful but heard loud buzzing sounds. After about 3 or 4 min the lamp turned off. I got the 3 red flashing signals. Let the pj cool down and restarted and it ran again for about 5 min. Opened the pj up again to take a look around and could find nothing wrong. I have since started the pj up again several times and each time it shuts off anywhere between 4 & 10 mins. Any suggestions would be welcomed. The noises are no longer there.

Im sure its just the power supply. What does that cost, does any one know ?

Probably > $100, if retail. Buy a "broken" 4805 off eBay that has a good power supply. Since nobody seemed to have use for it here, I sold mine (with bad color wheel, but otherwise fine) for a measly $40.

Will I be shot if I open a 4805 question outside this thread? I want to ask about the power supply, and feel that the question may be missed in the depth of this thread.

This is THE best place to get an answer, but go ahead and post elsewhere if you think it will help. Good luck.

...each time it shuts off anywhere between 4 & 10 mins...

Sounds as though the fan isn't running.

There are 2 fans. A big one that sets behind the lamp and a smaller one setting behind the color wheel. The smaller one is running but not the big one. Are they both supposed to run all the time the pj is on?

This is THE best place to get an answer, but go ahead and post elsewhere if you think it will help. Good luck.

Spidy, do you know of the people who have replaced their power supply with a third party alternative ?

Is their a for sale/WTB thread ? I am looking for a parts 4805..

I am all questions galore today it seems.

http://www.fixya.com/support/t407099-no_power

check fuse, check to see if fan is clean, check to insure lamp and houseing is completely seated


I see what looks to be a fuse on my power supply. Does anyone know what that fuse is, where I can get another, and also if this is the fuse he is referring too ?

There are 2 fans. A big one that sets behind the lamp and a smaller one setting behind the color wheel. The smaller one is running but not the big one. Are they both supposed to run all the time the pj is on?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/archive/index.php/t-862111.html

Are you using the manual switch on the side of the projector?? I never, ever use this switch as the my projectors are ceiling mounted. I even forget it has a manual switch.

What happens if you use the remote to turn it on/off instead??!! This leaves the projector "alive", in a standby mode, instead of killing it altogether.

When I am done using the pj, I hit the power button on the remote, let the fan stop and then use the manual switch on the side of the unit. My pj is also ceiling mounted but as it is a basement, the ceiling is only about 8 feet high. I just feel weird leaving it in standby mode when i use it 3-4 times/week. Also, how do I wake it up again when in standby mode ?

Just press the power button or choose an input on the remote, it'll come back to life that way.

I wish there was a setting that would allow you to flip the switch but have the PJ go to standby mode rather than power on. This would be useful for those power outages.

Well to post an update, i've taken it to a repair shop of someone I know to be reputable. He wouldn't BS me so hopefully it will be something simple.

I'm finding some places that list a SP-lamp-009 as a replacement lamp for a SP4805. I thought it's supposed to be a SP-lamp-021. One place has a sale on the 009. Is the SP-Lamp-009 is a proper replacement for the SP-lamp-021?

I cannot honestly say I know for sure, but I would say that it is to expensive to risk going with anything other than the correct part. You should see what infocus has it listed as, and run with that.

I'm finding some places that list a SP-lamp-009 as a replacement lamp for a SP4805. I thought it's supposed to be a SP-lamp-021. One place has a sale on the 009. Is the SP-Lamp-009 is a proper replacement for the SP-lamp-021?

SP-009 is originally for the X1. Supposedly, they are similar in design, though I have not tried the 009.

Does anyone know the cheapest place you can get a replacement bulb for the sp4805 in Canada?

My error, Sorry if I caused any confusion. I called and was told the SP-Lamp-009 fits a 4800, not a 4805. I looked again at the web page where I 1'st saw it and says fits 4800.

My x2 just started making the buzz saw noise on startup. Has anyone had luck lubricating the colorwheel?

Thanks,
-J

Follow-up:

In December of last year, my color wheel fell apart. I had bought my 4805 at Circuit City and got their extended warranty. I sent the projector in to be repaired, at the end of December. I also bought a new PJ (but that's another story).

Anyway, after not hearing back for a long time, I called up and eventually got to someone who told me the unit couldn't be repaired, and they'd send me a refund.

I just got it today, and it's a CC gift card for almost $1100. :eek: Yes, that's one thousand one hundred dollars. I got a couple of years of using the projector, for basically the cost of the warranty. Not bad.

So, on the one hand I'm not thrilled that it's a gift card, although I can certainly spend the money there. On the other hand, I'm actually shocked that they refunded the entire purchase price.

Dan

PS: I love my Mitsubishi HC1500.

PPS: I have a bulb for my sp4805 that I don't need any more. I honestly don't know if it's relatively new, or it's old. If anyone wants it, PM me. I can probably give it to you for the shipping cost.

PPS: I have a bulb for my sp4805 that I don't need any more. I honestly don't know if it's relatively new, or it's old. If anyone wants it, PM me. I can probably give it to you for the shipping cost.

Just PM'ed you for the bulb

Thanks!

<insert 14 day gap of lost posts here>

Ok, so I had the 2 blinking red lights at startup and was kindly advised the other day about holding down - and + volume buttons for 10 sec to reset lamp timer. This fixed the problem, BUT....

In the meantime I had already opened the projector to take a look (not the first time as I already had to do the DIY light tunnel repair last year), after putting it back together again I am getting this weird meow type sound that repeats.

I partially opened the projector to see what was making the sound and it turns out to be the fan behind the lamp module. It's trying to rotate but can't get enough inertia?

So, I have another 4805 with EXTREME buzz saw colour wheel, otherwise good. And I have my main 4805 with 1 fan not working.

The question is what is my best or easiest option, swap colour wheels or swap fans? Or is there a better option. Why would the fan have failed from just opening the projector anyway?

Thanks all.

If I had a guess, I'd say swapping color wheels is going to be much easier.

Also, is there any chance that a firmware upgrade could address a non working fan following a lamp timer overflow?

is there any chance that a firmware upgrade could address a non working fanNo.

Cavu, what's your take on replacing fan vs colour wheel?

The color wheel is gonna go in all these projectors eventually so stsrting with a new wheel makes sense.

True - but both projectors are old. One has non working fan, the other has colour wheel problem. Question is, which one should I fix?

i.e. take the fan out of the bad colour wheel one, or take the colour wheel out of the bad fan one. Which is the less risky operation and/or easier to do? Or is it much the same.

True - but both projectors are old. One has non working fan, the other has colour wheel problem. Question is, which one should I fix?

i.e. take the fan out of the bad colour wheel one, or take the colour wheel out of the bad fan one. Which is the less risky operation and/or easier to do? Or is it much the same.
I've been inside my brothers, first the light tunnel, now a broken color wheel.

I unscrewed the color wheel bracket, but I couldn't remove the color wheel from the PJ 100%. It's connected by a ribbon that runs under the tray ??? Anybody know what's involved with 100% removing the color wheel so a new one can be reconnected ?

We're searching the globe for a 4805 with an intact colorwheel, so I'll have to do this swap.
Thanks

Has anyone got a link bookmarked for the fan replacement or color wheel procedures - preferrably pictorial... I've tried searching the threads to no avail :(

I've got the light tunnel fic pictorial guide, but getting to the lamp fan and/or color wheel takes more steps....

thanks

This link might be of some help.

http://www.willswebdesign.com/sp4805/sp4805.htm

did you find where to get it from

Don't worry found it bookmarked in my other PC

https://home.comcast.net/~elderjex/ebay/colorwheel/colorwheel.htm

Don't worry found it bookmarked in my other PC

https://home.comcast.net/~elderjex/ebay/colorwheel/colorwheel.htm

Hooray. I posted that quite some time ago and really, really didn't want to go digging around for it. Good to see it put to use.

So, the light tunnel (p/n 306-0095-01, according to the all-knowing Internet;) ) in my 4805 fell apart. Infocus won't sell me a new one. How did those of you who had this problem get the part to fix it?

750 hours on the projector. I'm not terribly happy about it.

So, the light tunnel (p/n 306-0095-01, according to the all-knowing Internet;) ) in my 4805 fell apart. Infocus won't sell me a new one. How did those of you who had this problem get the part to fix it?

750 hours on the projector. I'm not terribly happy about it.

Buy an otherwise dead one off eBay or craigslist. That's about your only options. Shouldn't cost you more than $50 tops.

A second the idea of looking for a dead one somewhere for $50. I sold a dead one I had laying around for $50 shipped to another forum member not more than a month ago. They are out there for the finding.

So, the light tunnel (p/n 306-0095-01, according to the all-knowing Internet;) ) in my 4805 fell apart. Infocus won't sell me a new one. How did those of you who had this problem get the part to fix it?

750 hours on the projector. I'm not terribly happy about it.


Was your projector ceiling mounted? I'm just curious if it makes a difference.

Whoever had a light tunnel failure, how your projector was mounted.

Also, those who've fixed their tunnels by gluing them back together, do you thing there is a preventative step to avoiding this failure by reinforcing the joints somehow before failure? Maybe adding some epoxy or high-temp silicone to the joints would help strengthen them?

Thanks

So, the light tunnel (p/n 306-0095-01, according to the all-knowing Internet;) ) in my 4805 fell apart. Infocus won't sell me a new one. How did those of you who had this problem get the part to fix it?

750 hours on the projector. I'm not terribly happy about it.

You could do what this guy did and make your own. He used the disc from a 3.5" hard drive.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10693272&&#post10693272

I just wanted to say my SP4805 just passed the 3000 hour mark on the original bulb. Still seems to be working fine. Getting some good mileage out of it. The wheel has made the "saw noise" a couple of times but not constant and not long in duration.

Probably will just upgrade to a newer model when this one goes out.

Colour wheel swap successfully complete, yeehaa l)

Hi guys,

This is my 1st projector bought used (about 150 hours) and am happy with it so far.

I noticed that the projector gets hot to the touch at the front of the unit. Is this considered normal ? The PJ is sitting on a coffee table when used so maybe the hot air is not being dissipated properly?

Thanks for your help,

Steph

the projector gets hot to the touch at the front of the unit.Normal. Don't touch it. Keep little kids away. ;)

Yes, that is very normal. There is a reason why it has a pair of fans, one dedicated to the lamp itself. The lamp is arc based so it get much hotter than your typical light bulb. Then consider that it is in a confined space like that. What you can do to cut down on the heat as well as the noise from the fans is set it in lower power mode.

You'll want to make sure you pull the lamp out once in a while to clean the filters on it. This will help keep the bulb cool as well.

Appreciate the quick feedback guys.

Thanks !

Hello everyone! Long time no post here at the 4805 thread. Just received a Venturer SHD-7000 (HD-A3 clone) and I can't get it to play over the M1 input (component works fine). Already had a HDMI cable (I'm not sure if it's v1.3 or does that matter?) and I picked up a HDMI->M1 adapter from Monoprice http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041906&p_id=2689&seq=1&format=2. Went through all Sync settings and nothing works. Do you think it's the adapter, cable, or player settings? Does anyone here have a Venturer or HD-A3/D3 running via M1?

...Just received a Venturer SHD-7000 (HD-A3 clone) and I can't get it to play over the M1 input (component works fine). Do you think it's the adapter, cable, or player settings?...

Do you have any other devices with HDMI in the house? If so, does the Venturer unit work on those devices without the M1 adapter?

Do you have any other devices with HDMI in the house? If so, does the Venturer unit work on those devices without the M1 adapter?

Ya, I bought an HD70 on clearance at BB a while back and was holding onto it as a Christmas gift. Guess I can "borrow" it to see if it's an issue with the player, right? :)

Ya, I bought an HD70 on clearance at BB a while back and was holding onto it as a Christmas gift. Guess I can "borrow" it to see if it's an issue with the player, right? :)

You could certainly do a quick test with the HD70 without showing even a hour on the bulb...though if you bought it for someone else, you could do them a huge favor and give them your 4805 instead. If you bought it for yourself, expect to be beyond underwhelmed.

Before I go open the HD70, I'm wondering 1) do I have the correct adapter; and 2) does the version of HDMI cable matter? And one more thought, 3) does the power-up sequence matter (projector vs player first)?

Before I go open the HD70, I'm wondering 1) do I have the correct adapter; and 2) does the version of HDMI cable matter? And one more thought, 3) does the power-up sequence matter (projector vs player first)?

Your adapter looks exactly like the one I used to use with my 4805. I never had any issues with cable versions. HDMI 1.3 is backwards compatable, so I can't see what would be wrong, regardless of what you're using. I never had any issues in power sequences with the 4805 with any of the following; HD-A2, PS3, HD cable box, DVR, 3 DVD recorders, PS2, Xbox 360, Xbox, Wii, or any of 4 different DVD players.

At this point, I'm guessing it's the player itself. Using the HD70 as an alternative display device will give you another set of parameters to use in eliminating at least one of the variables in the equation.

Your adapter looks exactly like the one I used to use with my 4805.

Oh good, I was worried that I picked the wrong one.

I never had any issues with cable versions. HDMI 1.3 is backwards compatable, so I can't see what would be wrong, regardless of what you're using.

Don't think I'm using 1.3 cable. Does HD-DVD require v1.3?

I never had any issues in power sequences with the 4805 with any of the following; HD-A2, PS3, HD cable box, DVR, 3 DVD recorders, PS2, Xbox 360, Xbox, Wii, or any of 4 different DVD players.

I think I did a while back when running 1:1 from my Snazzio and Momitsu players so that's why I asked.

At this point, I'm guessing it's the player itself. Using the HD70 as an alternative display device will give you another set of parameters to use in eliminating at least one of the variables in the equation.

Of course, I was just trying to delay breaking the seal on the box.

Don't think I'm using 1.3 cable. Does HD-DVD require v1.3?

No.

This sucks...looks like it's the HD player. Just hooked up my LG DN798 using the same HDMI cable and adapter and it played perfectly on my 4805. I'll do a firmware update to v4.0 but I don't think it's going to help. Well, off to the Venturer owner's thread!

Hi,

My Infocus 4805 had a yellowish strip on the left side of the display, then a few months later 1/2 of the display was dark. All this happened after the 2 yr warrenty.

I heard it was a light tunneling problem. Is this a common problem? How can this happen? I purposely bought the Infocus because it was the best name for projectors and DLP was to be better than LCD. I am very dissapointed.

Is Optoma or Sanyo better names for projectors? Thanks.

Hi,

My Infocus 4805 had a yellowish strip on the left side of the display, then a few months later 1/2 of the display was dark. All this happened after the 2 yr warrenty.

I heard it was a light tunneling problem. Is this a common problem? How can this happen? I purposely bought the Infocus because it was the best name for projectors and DLP was to be better than LCD. I am very dissapointed.

It's most definitely the light tunnel. "Easily" fixed with the directions right here on this very thread.

Is Optoma or Sanyo better names for projectors? Thanks.

No.

OK, I'm back. I updated the Venturer's firmware, did a factory reset, and unplugged it. After letting it sit for a few hours, I plugged it back in and connected only the composite and HDMI cables to the 4805. I used the composite input first to check player settings and then hit 'Computer'. It kept searching and eventually went back to composite (Auto source). While everything was still powerd on and running, I disconnected and re-connected the HDMI cable at the player. I hit the computer button again on the 4805 and it found the signal but there was no picture! Any ideas?

Follow-up 08-Oct-08: Tried my HD70 with the Venturer and it worked. Must be a handshake issue(?) with the 4805 and Venturer since the same adapter and cable works perfectly with another player.

2 bulbs for $250?

http://cgi.ebay.com/InFocus-4805-SP-LAMP-021-Brand-New_W0QQitemZ250306531166QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20081012?IMSfp =TL081012004008r35127

anybody want to split the cost with me? I'll take the one with 1000 hours on it for $85, and you take the one with 0 on it for 165.

Or i'll do vice versa.

2 bulbs for $250?

http://cgi.ebay.com/InFocus-4805-SP-LAMP-021-Brand-New_W0QQitemZ250306531166QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20081012?IMSfp =TL081012004008r35127

anybody want to split the cost with me? I'll take the one with 1000 hours on it for $85, and you take the one with 0 on it for 165.

Or i'll do vice versa.

Used bulbs from a seller with a zero rating. Scary! :eek:

When i'm running my 2-3 y/o 4805 with 480p or 720p outputted from my xbox 360 through component cables, the screen gets cropped slightly on the top and bottom as if it is in letterbox mode. Overscan is turned off and i've tried many adjustments but i'm not thinking it's a display setting issue. When i switch the 360 to 480i output, the issue goes away. I'd gladly appreciate any input or suggestions because 480i just doesn't do the xbox justice.

I've read through hundreds of pages all over the internet and most on this forum but i can't seem to find a solution to my problem.

Hi Guys,
I hope I'm not posting this message in the wrong area, sorry! if so.

I have a Problem that i think most of us have. my projector SP4805 As a Brown/Yellow
Line down the left side of the screen. It seems to be a burn Mark but its not that,
When i pull Focus or Ajust the distance. the line remains the same.
i am been Searching the Forums About this Subject. But no one seems to know
how to fix this problem. I don't want to pay the cost to repair as i know it will be high,
I will do it myself if need too. I've heard the problem may be the Light Tube.?
and I've heard it may be color wheel?s. Has anyone uncounted and fixed this problem
and if so. i would very much like to know how to repair it.

Thanks.

i would very much like to know how to repair it."Search this Thread" for 'light tunnel'.

Hopefully this is the right thread for this post.

I have an Infocus 4805 pj with the updated FW connected to a Samsung DVD-HD870 player via HDMI cable using a M1 to HDMI cable/adapter.
I set the player at 720p and the pj seemed to work fine at that resolution for a few days - I even briefly connected it to a PS3 with no problems. I played various original DVDs. Then, it now gives me an "out of range" message during initial handshake every time I insert an original DVD. If, on the other hand, I make a copy of it (therefore removing protections), the disc plays fine at 720p.
I repeat - this problem happens only with original DVDs.

I tried a different player - Samsung HD860 - with no success. I tried a shorter HDMI cable - no change.
Infocus claims that their 4805 is HDCP compliant.

Is this a HDCP issue or is it something else?
Please could anybody help me to shed some light on this issue.

I connected my laptop to the projector using a VGA to 3 RCA cable. My toshiba laptop supports component output but I am not getting anything out of the projector. Any suggestions? Does running windows vista 64 have anything to do with it?

Tnx

Does running windows vista 64 have anything to do with it?

No, the fact that your laptop doesn't support component output has something to do with it. An RGB connection is not the same as a component (YPrPb) connection

Hey All,

Just pgt into the world of projectors with a used sp4805 from a friend...1000 hours on the bulb , works great.....

here are my specs:
sp4805
bell xpressvu 9262 HD PVR (running 1080i)
connected via hdmi / M1 cable (through an HDMI passthrough on Sony reciever)

Im just starting to play with the settings....and am wondering which of the following is better:

1. Should i leave the hdmi / M! cable attached...(no Farjouda (sp) DCDi or image sharpness adjustments) running 1080i

2. use component so i have access to all the above settings

I already adjusted my rgb offsets to 28.5 and gain to 58 as per this forum....

any input would be most appreciated.

My "other" TV is a toshiba widescreen HD 51" running HD so im just curious so i can get the best sharpest possible picture.

Thanks

Paul

I already adjusted my rgb offsets to 28.5 and gain to 58 ... im just curious so i can get the best sharpest possible picture.Use the M1/HDMI input! Other than the 28.5/58 settings, for the best possible image, set the unit to factory default settings and the color temperature to 6500; don't mess with anything else!

Use the M1/HDMI input! Other than the 28.5/58 settings, for the best possible image, set the unit to factory default settings and the color temperature to 6500; don't mess with anything else!

Hey...Thanks.....so what difference does the farjouda decoder actually make

i havent seen the true potential of this 4805 yet as im just projecting on a wall...screen is coming soon

oh, and what are the ideal brightness contrast settings, just the defaults? with film as the gamma setting?

Thanks for the quick reply

Cheers

Paul

what difference does the farjouda decoder actually makeIt is a deinterlacer .... if you are feeding the projector a 480i/576i signal, it converts it to 480p/476p.what are the ideal brightness contrast settings, just the defaults? with film as the gamma setting?With an HDMI/M1 input (with the "28.5/58" settings) the defaults are the correct settings! And "Film" is the correct gamma.

My light cooling fan failed the other night, so I pulled it out, got the specs and ordered a new replacement fan. The new fan was a lil' deeper (25.4mm vs. 20mm),other than that, it was basically the same. After testing the new fan on the bench with 12vdc and seeing it worked great, I installed it in the SP4805. It didn't power up at all when I operated the projector. After searching through this thread, I came across a post from a year and a half ago where someone said the fan control circuit fails and that they had powered their replacement light cooling fan with an external 12vdc source. I'm going to do this myself. Just thought I'd post and see if anyone else had tried it (maybe more recently) and see how it has worked out. I'll probably install some sort of switch to power on and off the 12vdc power supply instead of having to unplug it all the time.

My SP4805 is 2-3 years old and I'm on my second bulb. My first bulb failed prematurely due to me not cleaning the filter screens routinely. My environment is not very good. It's on the ceiling in my basement. It gets pretty dusty down there and pretty warm in the winter time because I run a woodburner a lot. I'm thinking about mounting another external muffin fan near the projector for more cooling air.

I came across a post from a year and a half ago where someone said the fan control circuit fails and that they had powered their replacement light cooling fan with an external 12vdc source. I'm going to do this myself. Just thought I'd post and see if anyone else had tried it (maybe more recently) and see how it has worked out. I'll probably install some sort of switch to power on and off the 12vdc power supply instead of having to unplug it all the time.I haven't done this myself, but I'm wondering if you can power it off the output that's meant to trigger a motorized screen.

I thought about that myself, but didn't get around to powering up my unit and measuring the 12vdc output on the trigger. I'm not sure if it's a constant 12vdc output or just a digital output that you "trigger" with a push button on the remote or console.

On the other matter ... I looked around and found a 12vdc wall wart at home last night and was going to stop by Radio Shack tonight and look for a nice 2 position switch that I can mount on or in close proximation to the SP4805. I'm also going to look for another small fan to mount to my ceiling and externally cool the SP4805 while I'm there.

Hi all,

The component input on my 4805 seems to have died. It worked fine last night...but it seems that attempting to route the component video signal through my receiver (Panny XR57) was what killed all sign of life on the projector. Composite still works, and I'm not sure about any of the others, but component is dead from both an Oppo 981 and a PS2. Even after restoring things to be just the same as they were before (Oppo direct to the PJ), there is still no picture.

Is this a common problem? Any solutions?

Thanks in advance.

Scott

Hi all,

The component input on my 4805 seems to have died. It worked fine last night...but it seems that attempting to route the component video signal through my receiver (Panny XR57) was what killed all sign of life on the projector. Composite still works, and I'm not sure about any of the others, but component is dead from both an Oppo 981 and a PS2. Even after restoring things to be just the same as they were before (Oppo direct to the PJ), there is still no picture.

Is this a common problem? Any solutions?

Thanks in advance.

Scott

Double and triple check your green signal.

-J

Hi guys,

Haven't posted in this thread in years, not since the huge run on discounted Bravo D1's (I bought 2), etc., and have been unbelievable happy with my 4805 experience.

My light tube has failed, and I'm going to take the pj down this week to attempt the superglue repair, but I'm wondering if it's days are numbered.

So, my question- is there a current pj on the market that's the 4805 of today's models- ie throws a great accurate picture when calibrated properly, and hits a sweet spot in the price point?

Thanks for the help-

Wes
Rochester, NY

Wes, I just replaced my 4805 with a Panasonic AX200u. It arrived last Friday and I've put 28 hours on it already.

I'd already performed the superglue repair on my 4805, but it failed again...due to heat maybe. I used a couple online discounts to get the ax200 for about $700 and I think I got a great value.

This thing simply blows away the 4805 head to head in every way.

Jonathan,

Would you pm me the details of your purchase? Were you able to mount it in the same location?

Thanks,

Wes

I replaced my failed 4805 with Infocus SP7210. I have been very happy with it too. Great picture and I mounted it in the same location as my 4805. Couldn't be happier. Matter of fact, I have two of them.. I bought an extra one because I liked the first one I bought so much :) Saving it for the future, not sure I would want to part with it.

I found my 4805 to be pretty difficult to position in my room due to its short zoom, large vertical offset and lack of lens shift. I had it sitting on a shelf, upside down, with the front resting on a 1x2 board to get the proper angle. Also, the shelf wasn't exactly centered left-to-right due to some windows on the back wall, so one side of my image was shorter (height) than the other. I 'fixed' this by zooming the image a little larger than the black felt border.

The ax200u that replaced it was a freaking breeze in comparison.

In short, any location you had the 4805 mounted will DEFINITELY work for a new projector with lens shift.

At the risk of wandering even further off-topic...

Now that Mitsubishi has finally released its first Laservue rear-projection TV, what are the chances they'll be following it with a front-projection projector?

I've got my fingers crossed that my SP4805 will last me until such a projector becomes a reality at a price I can afford (another 2yrs?).

Jonathan,

Hey, using your info for the live.com cashback, etc., I found in the other thread, I pulled the trigger on a Mitsu 5500 1080p unit, and am really looking forward to the upgrade. I initally was going to get your Panasonic, but there were none available where you purchased them for the discounted price, so I ended up with the Mitsu for around $1350 after tax (darn NY state!), which is a killer deal for this PJ.

Thanks for the help,

Wes

Is there a market for used 4805s? I've had several years of enjoyment from it but I'm looking to upgrade to a higher res.

Yeah, its not circular at all though. But I follow those instructions anyway and took a look at that mirror, can't see anything on it.

Its more of a defined shape, looks man-made (straight lined).

I have the same exact problem with my 4805. Translucent image, (shadow) in the lower right hand corner. It moves around a bit if I turn the pj sideways. Happened after I replaced the lamp. Any resolution? Thanks

I have the same exact problem with my 4805. Translucent image, (shadow) in the lower right hand corner. It moves around a bit if I turn the pj sideways. Happened after I replaced the lamp. Any resolution? ThanksSounds like the "light tunnel" problem.

Hi all,

The component input on my 4805 seems to have died. It worked fine last night...but it seems that attempting to route the component video signal through my receiver (Panny XR57) was what killed all sign of life on the projector. Composite still works, and I'm not sure about any of the others, but component is dead from both an Oppo 981 and a PS2. Even after restoring things to be just the same as they were before (Oppo direct to the PJ), there is still no picture.

Is this a common problem? Any solutions?

Thanks in advance.

Scott

get the m1 to hdmi adapter.

Jonathan,

Hey, using your info for the live.com cashback, etc., I found in the other thread, I pulled the trigger on a Mitsu 5500 1080p unit, and am really looking forward to the upgrade. I initally was going to get your Panasonic, but there were none available where you purchased them for the discounted price, so I ended up with the Mitsu for around $1350 after tax (darn NY state!), which is a killer deal for this PJ.

Thanks for the help,

WesGood choice and price...Your going to love the HC5500. My 4805 still runs like a champ...but I felt the need to upgrade and ending up getting the HC6500. Enjoy!

I have the same exact problem with my 4805. Translucent image, (shadow) in the lower right hand corner. It moves around a bit if I turn the pj sideways. Happened after I replaced the lamp. Any resolution? Thanks

I'm thinking you have what's known here as a "dust blob."

My 4805 is projecting a yellow vertical line (2-3 inch) on the right edge of the screen.

Anyone know what causes this and is there a DIY repair?

HH

My 4805 is projecting a yellow vertical line (2-3 inch) on the right edge of the screen."Search This Thread" for 'light tunnel' !!

"Search This Thread" for 'light tunnel' !!

I'll give that a try.

I searched 'Yellow-yellowish line" and found only one reply that didn't help.

HH

HH,

It's a well known problem (more long term) of the 4805. There is a mirror tunnel made up of 4 long pieces glued into a rectangular tunnel that reflects light from the lamp onto the DMD. Unfortunately, the glue holding these pieces together can fail after long use, and the tunnel collapses. It is DIY repairable, but you have to tear the pj all the way down to the light engine.

Mine did this and I've yet to take it down to try the fix. I ended up upgrading to a new 1080p pj for Christmas, but will still try to fix my 4805 for use elsewhere.

Here's a link:

http://http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10792432

Hoping someone can help. I went to update my firmware for my sp4805 and it did not work. Now when I turn on the projector the green light just flashes non stop. When I tried to redownload firmware 1.32 I get to the download part and then an error message comes on that says that it cannot download a temporary file. I tried to reload the original firmware 1.02 but it just says "scanning" when I download it. It looks as though I do not have ANY files / drives on the projector now. What do I do?
Please help.

Hi Guys

This is my first post. I have been reading this thread for a while now since I got my SP4805. It is my first projector and I am having an issue. I seached and couldn't find an answer so any help or direction to an answer would be great.

The issue is getting a good picture. Most of the time my picture doesn't seem much better than a VHS tape. I especially have trouble with bright areas and skin tones. They look like a very bright light is being pointed at them. I am constantly changing the contrast and brightness to account for these issues.

My set up is as follows: I am using component cables in to a video switching Onyko reciever. My input devices consist of an Xbox 360 and an HD cable receiver. My screen is just a grey tinged white painted wall with black borders.

Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Craig

I especially have trouble with bright areas and skin tones. They look like a very bright light is being pointed at them. I am constantly changing the contrast and brightness to account for these issues.Use the "THX Optimizer" found on every THX DVD and calibrate your contrast and brightness. Virtually every other setting on your 4805 should be default ... in fact - find the RESET option on the projector menu and reset the projector completely before you do the THX Optimizer calibration.

Once you have completed that calibration, leave the settings alone!!!

However, if you have blotchy metalic-bright spots on your image after you calibrate it, you may have a service issue ... I had a projector replaced for the same issue.

Is anybody using the 4805 with newer nVidia drivers?

I just replaced my old HTPC with a new one using a card that the old 93.71 driver doesn't support. I just can't seem to get the correct advanced timing parameters entered correctly to get 1:1 mapping. Has anyone got the parameters for the newer cards figured out?

Is there a market for used 4805s? I've had several years of enjoyment from it but I'm looking to upgrade to a higher res.

I sold mine to a friend along with my old 106" pull down screen for 375.00. It his first projector and he did not want to spend a lot without knowing if he wanted to go that route. It's been 3 weeks and him and there family absolutely love it!

I sold it with 3600 hours on the bulb and he had no problem knowing he would need a bulb at anytime besides the picture still looked good for his first venture. He told me he has his BR hooked up and watched The Dark Knight and it looked great. Had I not had the screen I probably put it on ebay.

He is happy and I am happy

I bought one of these pj from HSN about 3 years ago and the color wheel went out about 7 months ago. I was ready to move on anyways, but now I miss my 4805. I want to use it on special occasions, movie night, big game...etc. Is it worth getting the color wheel fixed? Somebody told me it can be fixed for $200. Has anybody else had their color wheel fixed?

My 4805 just started making the high pitched whine and I only have about 760 hours on the lamp. Should I ignore it and hope it goes away or should I attemp to fix it before it gets worse? How do you fix it?

Tnx

Maybe someone can help me identify the issue here (see attached pic). I just recently repaired the light tunnel and everything was just dandy until this happened. There is still an image behind the dark spot but it's just...well...darkened.

Also, the picture quality on this projector seems to be degrading. Lots of noise everywhere (I'm using and HDMI connection, OPPO 980) and pretty poor sharpness. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Scott

Looks like your repair didn't hold and the light tube is failing again.

Hello everyone

I have had my trusty 4805 for 4 years now. The only thing I have had happen is the buzz saw sound about 4 times in the last year. Last night after playing my 360 for about 10 minutes something inside became very LOUD and the whole chassis is vibrating. The sound is a lot deeper than the buzz saw sound and will not go away.

Have any of you had this happen. This sounds very bad.

something inside became very LOUD and the whole chassis is vibrating. The sound is a lot deeper than the buzz saw sound and will not go away.Sounds like a fan "bearing" is seizing due to dust or drying out; if so, a replacement fan should not be prohibitive.

Thanks cavu.

I guess I'll start looking for a replacement fan.
The picture still loos great but I don't want to power it on again until I get this fixed. I don't want to burn a bulb out.

Is there a 4805 expert that knows how to have the projector turn on and stay on without the bulb? I want to play around with LEDs since my bulb blew.

May 3rd lamp went after 4 years with my trusty 4805. I also have the light tunnel issue wich I know it's fixable. Looking at a replacement projector I purchased a Mitsibishi HD1600. It has a 2x color wheel and I found out my wife is in that 5% that sees them. I'ts on it's way back. I the short time it was on I was not seeing as good of a picture as the legendary 4805 dispite the good reviews. Skin was gray and motion artifacts seemed to be apparent. I've seen the recommendations in this thread but none that might be a good replacement for those that see rainbows. Any help would be much appreciated.

BTW: It's fed by a DVDR3575H/37 & a MyHD MDP-130 (if I ever get it to work)

if ur interested, im trying to sell my 4805 with less than 600 hours on the original bulb.

Please help me on diagnosing this SP4805 problem.

After powering up, 4805 led stays green, does not fire up the bulb after
the beep sound. I hear the fan sound. No difference even after testing with another lamp.

Have you tried to turn it off and back on with the power switch ?
I think that happened to me once and that's what I did and it worked.
It seems it should have fired up trying a new bulb but give it a shot,
whats it gonna hurt.

I unplugged the projector power supply as well as turned on/off the power switch multiple times. I dont see the bulb firing up.

Is it possible that both bulbs are bad ?
Bulb not seating properly ?
Just drawing straws here.

If the bulbs are bad, the LED indicator should blink red always? I replaced the lamp assembly couple of times. Did not work :(

If the bulbs are bad, the LED indicator should blink red always? I replaced the lamp assembly couple of times. Did not work :(

logiclion, I've been through this myself. Turn the power on, hear the fan start up, but after the beep, the bulb doesn't strike. One thing I noticed is that when the bulb would not strike, the fan would stay in high-power mode, not sure what that means.

I was always able to get the bulb to strike eventually. Sometimes it would take 5 or 6 attempts. Other times, it took 35 or 40 tries, but it always came on so I knew it wasn't a problem with the bulb itself. I reseated the bulb and made sure the door was closed properly but nothing seemed to help. InFocus offered to sell me a brand new bulb and said I could return it it didn't help but I never took them up on it.

Due to a recent move, we sold our house in July and my 4805 has been boxed up since then so I don't have any updates on the problem. Probably won't be in a position to hook it back up for another year and a half or so and by that time I figure I'll be ready for a new one.

Good luck!
-redbird

I'm sorry if this answer is somewhere in this thread but I can't seem to find it.

My 4805 seemed to have a burnt out bulb (it was really old so I assumed it was that), but right now it's something else. I ordered a new bulb and got it yesterday, but the lamp still will not strike. It attempts to 5 times then gives the single red blinking light. I've tried reseating it multiple times, and even replaced the 80mm fan (it stopped spinning unless I gave it a nudge) but it still will not strike.

Even though the single red blinking light is supposed to suggest a burnt out lamp, or lamp door could it be something else? Does it have to something to do with the fan? Also I have tried to reset the lamp counter manually with the volume buttons, but that doesn't seem to do anything for me.

Oh and one last thing, it did let me update the firmware. I never bothered trying to do that until yesterday as well. I don't know if that helps with any potential answers though. Thanks for any suggestions on this as I prefer killing people in COD4/W@W on this than my little 22inch LCD. :)

Alex

I upgraded the firmware to the latest version. After the firmware upgrade completes, the projector does auto restart. To my surprise, the bulb struck this time. Hopefully it will continue to work in future. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. Thanks for all your inputs.

BTW the last time when the bulb was working, I had connected my laptop to the projector. Probably that caused some problem.

Great news !
Hopefully it will stay working for a long time :)

I purchased an infocus 4805 that didn't come with a remote. Is it bad to power down with the switch on the side? Does anyone have the remote codes I could punch into my harmony remote, or my sony av3000, or could I possibly borrow a remote from someone so I could learn the codes? HELP!!!

Anyone have the remote codes or a remote I could borrow long enough to teach my learning remote the codes for the 4805? I just need to be able to power on and off with the remote so I don't burn out the bulb by powering down with the switch on the side of the projector.

Thank you in advance.

Is it bad to power down with the switch on the side?No. In fact, the lamp may last longer due to the fact that it cools naturally instead of being force-cooled. But not a big issue either way.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=134698&stc=1&d=1235593350

If Cavu's table doesn't work for you, I have a 4805 remote I saved when I junked my failed projector last year. Anyone who wants it can have it. I also saved my lamp, which had about 1800 hours on it, but I don't know if it still works.

A couple weeks ago I got a Blu Ray player and hooked it up to my 4805 via RGB. It displayed in 480i/p with no problems and 720p with no problems but on 1080i, the picture looked really dim. Because my Xbox 360 (also attached via RGB) has absolutely no problem displaying beautifully in 1080i, I figured the problem was with the player so I took it back and exchanged it for another one. The new one had the same effect so I was certain the issue lay with the projector.

After nearly tearing my hair out ended up doing a factory reset as a last-ditch effort and now all of the settings from 480 - 1080 are beautiful.

But...

The S-Video which carries my TV signal is now displaying dim, just the same as the Blu Ray had been.

Has anyone else run into this? I didn't see it mentioned earlier in the thread and could use some help figuring out wtf is going on.

Thanks!

there will be a 3-6 wire plug of very small wire coming from the ballast to the mainboard of the projector. you have to short the 5v to the ground. do some searchs on dyiaudio or lumenlab.

The S-Video which carries my TV signal is now displaying dim, just the same as the Blu Ray had been.Your S-video and RGB inputs on the PJ are calibrated separately. Contrast, brightness, color, etc. are all independent. Use a THX-Optimizer (or other calibration disk) to adjust your Bluray image and use a broadcast test pattern to adjust your TV.

So last night we're up late watching a random movie on TV when...

Pop!

Darkness.

I knew immediately the bulb had gone. Here's to 4 years and countless hours (5000+ is my guess) with this sucker. Now comes the hard part - deciding whether to replace the bulb or spend the money on an upgrade. I was watching an ebay auction this morning of a used 4805 with brand new bulb and it only went for about $250, which tells me that the projector isn't worth much if anything.

So last night we're up late watching a random movie on TV when...

Pop!

Darkness.

I knew immediately the bulb had gone. Here's to 4 years and countless hours (5000+ is my guess) with this sucker. Now comes the hard part - deciding whether to replace the bulb or spend the money on an upgrade. I was watching an ebay auction this morning of a used 4805 with brand new bulb and it only went for about $250, which tells me that the projector isn't worth much if anything.


Depends what you want to do- that auction would tell me that you could get your 4805 up and running for little $$.

That said, when my 4805 developed the light tube problem I decided to bite the bullet and upgrade. I went with a Mitsubishi HC5500 1080p pj and a PS3, which is a great combo, but certainly a lot more $$ than $250. I'm going to try to fix my 4805 light tube and use it in the summer for outdoor movies in the back yard. . .

Wes

I just listed a 4805 on ebay that is in need of a bulb. In a seperate auction I listed 2 Bravo D1's one working, one is not, includes extra resistors. PJ starts at $25 D1's start at $25 for both. If interested my ebay handle is loungeracer

There are a few on CL in my area for $50 with burn out bulbs, anyone know have an old bulb to sell on the cheap, would be good for backyard movie duties.

So last night we're up late watching a random movie on TV when...

Pop!

Darkness.

I knew immediately the bulb had gone. Here's to 4 years and countless hours (5000+ is my guess) with this sucker. Now comes the hard part - deciding whether to replace the bulb or spend the money on an upgrade. I was watching an ebay auction this morning of a used 4805 with brand new bulb and it only went for about $250, which tells me that the projector isn't worth much if anything.

Well I bought a new bulb and replaced it. Hopefully this will tie us over until 1080p DLP projectors are at a good price point.

I really noticed a difference in brightness. First thing I did was find a channel with good eye candy and found one on Travel HD about best beaches, and the picture had that vibrant "pop" I remembered when first buying the 4805 years ago. Surprisingly, the light tube brownness on the the far sides is all but gone now, so the increased brightness (or lack thereof) definitely contributes to how the light tube issue shows itself.

Well my 4805 light tunnel collapsed so I pulled it apart and fixed it but while it was apart I was running it to test it and noticed the the 80mm fan not working.
So I pulled it completely apart to get the fan and lamp housing out I tried numerous resources excluding ebay to get another OEM Nidec SL.
So I went the other route and bought some dust proof quiet fans.
I had planned on replacing both but didn't have long enough screws for the small one to accommodate a full sized 60m
Got it all back together and realized that the large fan was in backwards when it wouldn't stay running
Well the fan is quiet unfortunately it seams that its just barely adequate on cfm
also the fan wouldn't run with it plugged into the proper receptacle on the main board so I spliced it into the 60mm circuit,
So the original fan might have been OK but I had to cannibalize the connector on it.
I may end up duct taping the other new 60m to the back of the case for aide in cooling as it seems to run really warm.
internal air flow is pretty poor on this unit.
Kind of disappointing in that a 3 year old projector is already having issue while my old Sharpvision 35U (96) still fires up other than cleaning the filters once in a while has been trouble free

my old Sharpvision 35U (96) still fires up other than cleaning the filters once in a while has been trouble freeYour good old Sharpvision never gave you the superb image that your Infocus has provided you with over the last three years. Nothing is free. ;)

anyone have a busted 4805 but a decent used bulb? I bought my unit used with no bulb, and I don't want to spend 300 bucks on a new bulb to find out the projector doesnt work right. PM me, i'll pay for a used bulb at a decent price.

maybe a dumb question the 2 fans do they both flow air out the front or does the little one pull air in and the big one push air out I'm wondering if I don't have them in right?

Has anyone hooked up the 4805 to a reciver via M1/DVI/HDMI adapter?

I tried hooking up my DVI cord to a HDMI adapter, then pluged that into a new Sony AV receiver that has an HDMI input for each device and one HDMI out to the projector.

As soon as I switch over to the HDMI output on the receiver, the screen goes blank. I think HDCP is just shutting off the signal as soon as I swtich over to HDMI on the receiver.

Do I need an HDCP compliant HDMI adapter?

On a related note--Is anyone using an HDMI adapter sucessfully --one that is plugged into other things like a STB or a DVD player?

I would switch over to a new run of HDMI from the projector to the devices, but my DVI cable is in the wall.

DenM3 - I've been using the 10 meter M1-to-DVI cable with a cheap Walmart HDMI adapter to my PS3 without a problem for awhile. I have watched Bluray using this.

I've heard that one of the common issues is that the DVI port fails.

Speaking of common issues, a few days back I wrote about buying a new bulb but now I have a new issue. I have the problem where the bulb doesn't strike the first time. I have to toggle the on/off switch a few times before it will finally strike. Has anyone successfully resolved this issue?

Let's see...
dust blobs... check
color wheel buzzsaw... check
light tube issue... check
bulb doesn't strike... check
hdmi port failure...
fan failure...

Are we really not supposed to expect these things to last as long as a normal TV (or Sharpvision as gundyrat1 says)?

Has anyone hooked up the 4805 to a reciver via M1/DVI/HDMI adapter?Yes, with just an ordinary monoprice.com HDMI-M1DA cable.Do I need an HDCP compliant HDMI adapter?No. No such thing.On a related note--Is anyone using an HDMI adapter sucessfully --one that is plugged into other things like a STB or a DVD player?Yes, as above.

Since my older rec doesn't have HDMi I have run the Sat box and
Ps3 to a Auto sensing HDMI switch 2 to 1 then fed that to a 1 to 2 splitter and feed the projector and the TV I have the HDMI to M1 adapter along with a right angle then running optical for audio out of both sources

On a related note--Is anyone using an HDMI adapter sucessfully --one that is plugged into other things like a STB or a DVD player?

I would switch over to a new run of HDMI from the projector to the devices, but my DVI cable is in the wall.FWIW, I've got 2 sources: 1 DVI (an Oppo DVD player) and 1 HDMI (DishNetwork HD-DVR). The first goes into 1 port of a 2:1 HDMI switch via a DVI->HDMI cable. The second goes into the other port of the 2:1 HDMI switch via an HDMI->HDMI cable. The output of the HDMI switch goes [HDMI->DVI adapter]->[30 ft. of DVI cable]->[DVI->M1DA adapter]->SP4805. It all works just fine.

Pretty sure I solved the problem like others the voltage for the large fan seems to start at 8v but some where it drops off.
I took the Nidec Beta SL and plugged it into a 12v source and it ran like a champ it was pretty loud at full speed.

I then tried the same for a Antec tri power that I had just bought same result internal versus external power.
So I took it all apart and put the Acoustifan back in and fed it just the 12v external
I also took apart the front bezel and removed the restricter it's a wonder air flowed out at all.
Reassembled everything but the back cover and benched it plugged into one of the laptops loaded up the Matrix
so far results are a cool running case and a very quiet Lamp fan.

Group,

Does anyone know what Universal remotes work with the screenplay 4805. I was looking a a Harmony 520 from Logitech. However it is proving difficult to locate information on the topic. So I pose the question to you all. If you can help, that would be great.

Lordepic

Group,

Does anyone know what Universal remotes work with the screenplay 4805. I was looking a a Harmony 520 from Logitech. However it is proving difficult to locate information on the topic. So I pose the question to you all. If you can help, that would be great.

LordepicI've got a Logitech Harmony something-or-other and it supports the SP4805 just fine. I'd image all the Logitech remotes will support it equally well.

An update--Instead of converting my DVI cable to HDMI with an adapter that was plugged directly into the DVD player, I converted the DVI with a DVI female to HDMI female adapter, then took a regular HDMI (male to male) cable and ran that from the adapter to the player.

For some reason using the adapter directly on the new Samsung was kicking in HDCP. I would see a start screen, then nothing. Same thing when I switched the DVI over to the fios STB HDMI output. start up--then blank.

The other benefit of using a cable on the back of the machine is the small plug size. The width of the adapter was a PITA, and the cable plugs in nice and secure, not a giant sagging DVI adapter combo. On the DVD player, the HDMI was right next to the optical audio out, which made plugging both in nearly impossible.

Group,

Does anyone know what Universal remotes work with the screenplay 4805. I was looking a a Harmony 520 from Logitech. However it is proving difficult to locate information on the topic. So I pose the question to you all. If you can help, that would be great.

Lordepic


I'm using a 520 with a SP4805 and it works great. The codes Logitech has for the 4805 include some commands that don't apply to the 4805 though. It would be nice to be able to use the discrete codes for power and aspect settings, but the 4805 doesn't support those codes, only the toggle commands.:(

It's been a few years since I've been on this thread. I haunted these posts for a good long while and set up my 4805 with a Bravo D1. I've really enjoyed this projector and pixel-mapping DVD player combo.

However, everything went dark today while playing SuperMario Bros 3 on the Wii. Blinking red lights and failure to re-strike the lamp after being unplugged for a half hour...I guess the bulb is done. I heard stories about explosive bulbs and the loud crack people heard when their projector died, but mine had no such noise...just a quick transition to darkness.

I'm between jobs and I can't afford to replace the lamp right now. I've had no light tube issues and the colour wheel only makes noise once in a while, and never for very long. Does anyone want the husk of a 4805 or a functioning Bravo D1? Send me a PM if you do.

This is a sad day :(

Is there a cheap lamp replacement option? I wanted to try a retrofit. I got my infocus to stay on with no bulb and put a flashlight up to it to see if it worked and it does. Just not bright. Should I try a retrofit or can I find a bulb for cheap?

It's been a long time since I've posted here but I'm looking to do an upgrade to my DVD player and want some opinions. We've had the 4805 since November 2005 and have been very happy with it. I have it hooked up to an Oppo player via component and the picture is very good.

I'm considering getting a BluRay player but am wondering if it is worth it as far as improved picture quality goes. Is it worth it or should I just save my money? If it is worth it, what's a good player without a ton of bells & whistles (except for maybe Netflix streaming)?

Thanks in advance for the help!

It's been a long time since I've posted here but I'm looking to do an upgrade to my DVD player and want some opinions. We've had the 4805 since November 2005 and have been very happy with it. I have it hooked up to an Oppo player via component and the picture is very good.

I'm considering getting a BluRay player but am wondering if it is worth it as far as improved picture quality goes. Is it worth it or should I just save my money? If it is worth it, what's a good player without a ton of bells & whistles (except for maybe Netflix streaming)?

Thanks in advance for the help!Which Oppo player is it? If it's the 971, then you might notice a big improvement switching from component to DVI. The fancy upscaling hardware in that machine only does its magic on the DVI output.

I have a Bravo D2 that I replaced with a new Samsung Blue Ray. I got the pandora/netflix version that has wireless (but needs a dongle). 249 at a local big blue store. I am thrilled. It has been a great addition, and my wife likes a DVD player that actually works (unlike the Bravo that had a mind of its own). The only downside is that i had to switch to component, but with the 4805 resolution I really don't see a difference.

to test the picture, I ran the same movie Austim Powers Goldmember (6.1 DTS Discrete) in both the D2 and the new samsung and compared side by side, switching sources from BRD to D2. I had four adults in the room. They ALL (me too) agreed the samsung was the best (I did not tell them which was which)

Was wondering if anyone could sell me a light tunnel?

Or know where i could buy one?

I tried re-gluing for the 3rd time but it still gives me a shading on the left of the screen.

Anyone else not get re-gluing to work?

The first time I re-glued it work fine for a while but gradually the yellow shading came back again.

Was wondering if anyone could sell me a light tunnel?

Or know where i could buy one?

I tried re-gluing for the 3rd time but it still gives me a shading on the left of the screen.

Anyone else not get re-gluing to work?

The first time I re-glued it work fine for a while but gradually the yellow shading came back again.IIRC, awhile back someone posted how they crafted a replacement light tunnel by cutting pieces out of an old harddrive platter.

IIRC, awhile back someone posted how they crafted a replacement light tunnel by cutting pieces out of an old harddrive platter.

Hmm sounds interesting. Do you have a link to the post?

The frustrating thing is I really thought I had it cracked the last time

I cleaned all the mirrors with acetone (nail remover) to remove all the glue so they would fit together perfectly.
They were perfect but i still get a slightly dark shading over the right hand side over about 20% of the picture.
The picture also looks darker and less sharp overall for some reason.

I might give it one more go.

Maybe the superglue I am using isnt right?

OK, update.

Took it apart again.

The tube was deformed but still glued together.

I may have to wait longer till the glue has really hardened before I put it back in.

Also noticed that the glue had turned brown, probably due to the excessive heat.

I am just using standard super glue.

This time I am going to use lots of glue on the outside and really let it dry.

Anyone else have these problems?

OK, another update.

I glued the light tube very carefully and let it dry for several hours.

Switched it on and worked great for about 20 minutes then the yellow line crept onto the screen.

I am pretty convinced its the glue...........

I just dont think it can take the heat along with the pressure of the metal clip is distorting the mirrors.........

I guess I will have to look into something else that can take the heat.

Hopefully a final update with some comments/thoughts.

For those having this problem or having to reglue at least once a year or less I might have some suggestions.

Not every "super glue" is the same!

My most recent attempt I used a cyanoacrylate based super glue and that seems to be holding better.
I also added some of the permatex gasket maker for good meassure!

Also I had noticed that the mirrors had been "moving" yet were still stuck together.

It became obvious after a few tests that the metal clip holding the light tunnel in place was putting way too much pressure on the tube.
As it became hot and the glue soft, the mirrors would move.

If you are having LT problems, the clip might be too tight.
It only needs enough pressure when screwed down to hold the light tunnel in the correct position to stop it moving.
Also worth assuming that as the metal clip gets hot it expands at a faster rate than the glass! therefore making it even tighter!

The more I think about it, I am convinced that a lot of the light tunnel problems are probably due to the metal clip putting too much pressure on the glass causing it to shift.

Hi all, I haven't posted in this thread in years. My DVD player is dying. What is the best DVD player to get that works well with the 4805? Should I bother with Blu-ray?

I would get BluRay. There are some cheap players and while not HD, the 4805 will look better for sure displaying Bluray movies.
I have done it before. :-)

see my comment above #7908

Sent my 4805 in for extra coverage warranty repair. Based on the info on the thread - I would have thought it was the light tunnel (growing browness from the right side of the screen). I complained about the occasional buzz saw noise too. Can't get much details from them - but they said they ordered color wheel kit and replacing a control board. No mention of the light tunnel. Can't recall how many hours on the unit/bulb. Just hoping the bulb has much more life when I get it back. At least getting some new parts. Sure miss it. :(

I have this same projector but its known as the Knoll HD102. I know this projector has a max resolution of 480p but when i put my ps3 settings to 720p the colour is green and distorted. I thought this projector could accept the 720p signal but just scale it o 480p. I am running this through the dvi-m1 port with an hdmi adapter. ANy help would be appreciated.

I have used the 480p option and it works on the projector.

Boy has this board dried up!

My 4805 has lasted 5 years and 3,500 hours (that is .22 cents per hour) and has worked like a champ. I am getting the right side brown creep and looking to replace my SP 4805. It still works fine if you can put up with the right side fade.

Do you all have any reccomendations? Any brands to avoid? Would like to stay in the $1200 range.

thanks for any advice

I have this same projector but its known as the Knoll HD102. I know this projector has a max resolution of 480p but when i put my ps3 settings to 720p the colour is green and distorted. I thought this projector could accept the 720p signal but just scale it o 480p. I am running this through the dvi-m1 port with an hdmi adapter. ANy help would be appreciated.

I have used the 480p option and it works on the projector.
Try changing the colorspace on PS3 to RGB for 720p.

I have a Panasonic AX200u that I bought in December for a good price from Projector People, and it was for less than you have stated. Couldn't be happier.

quick question-looking at buying a used 4805 for $150 for a 2ndary pj & wanted to know if you can reset the lamp hours...?
thnx!
/j

yes! in the menu :-}

+1 very easily unfortunately.

ok-thnx for all the input!

Possible for make the DVI port not work after cleaning the projector?

This is really confusing. I've done just about all the testing I can think of, and the only possible explanation is that somehow while cleaning my projector, the DVI port stopped working on my InFocus 4805.

I used the 4805 fine with old comp. I built a new rig though and cleaned my projector at the same time. Took the 4805 outside, used a can of duster to clean out the filters, and sprayed the ventilation slots on the side of the projector to remove the dust. Took it back inside, and reinstalled.

The I connected it to the 4805 and turned it on. The computer detected a 2nd display device, let me go through all the dual view (nvidia properties) setup, etc, yet the projector displays nothing. The computer is acting as if it's there though, letting me change resolution (which is all native to the projector), etc. The projector however is continually "searching" for a device. I have a desktop and a laptop, 2 video cards, 2 different types of cables, and multiple video drivers, tried all combination's of the set, and still the projector does not detect the computer. These are what I used and tried in different combination's:

Projector settings:
Computer is set as only signal
Auto-source on at times, off at others, for testing.

Computers:
1) Desktop using video cards that support DVI.
2) Laptop using VGA video out.

Cables:
1) DVI Cable + DVI-2-M1 adapter (Computer detect it as "SP4805" in display properties)
2) M1 2 VGA cable + VGA-2-DVI adapter (Old rig worked fine with this. Current desktop detects it as "Analog Device". Laptop doesn't use VGA2DVI adapter, but used to work on laptop, doesn't now.)

Video cards:
1) EVGA GeForce GTX 260, 2 DVI slots.
2) EVGA GeForce 7600 GT, 2 DVI slots (old rig worked fine with this)

Display driver versions (all 32 bit whql):
1) Nvidia 169.21
2) Nvidia 180.48 (old rig worked fine with this)
3) Nvidia 190.62

Dozens upon dozens of reboots all throughout. Also tried turning projector on first, then starting up computer, plugging in while computer was on, plugging in while computer was off, and other combination's of such. I did not cut any corners as far as I can tell.

Lastly, to test the projector itself, I hooked up my PS2 to it via composite cables, and it detected and displayed it just fine. Good to know video games still work I suppose, but this is more for movie viewing. This is why I think it can only be the DVI port on the projector, as both ports work on my video cards (tested with a monitor), and at least 1 (out of several) cable, video display driver, and video card worked only a week ago before building the new computer. The ONLY thing done different to the projector was cleaning it. Can dust blower knock something loose that could cause this problem? If not, what the heck else is left???

I am sure i am the 1,000 person to ask this but can anyone give me a line on where to buy a color wheel for the 4805. I have been shot down by most repair places and distributors, most of them want me to send them my projector for repair. Please help i miss my BIG SCREEN.

Is it possible to knock out the DVI/M1 function on the 2805 by merely cleaning it with a can of duster? Cleaning the filters and blowing it in the vents and what not?

Is it possible to knock out the DVI/M1 function on the 2805 by merely cleaning it with a can of duster? Cleaning the filters and blowing it in the vents and what not?

I don't think the cleaning would be responsible. Have you tried with a different DVI source or your old PC to ensure it's not a computer setting/issue? Are you feeding it a supported data resoution (only 480p (854x480), VGA (640x480), SVGA (800x600), XGA (1024x768))

i do know that a can of compressed air can cause more damage than good sometimes. you could blow dust into parts of the machine would could adversly affect the image. A light vacuuming would be better if possible.

I am sure i am the 1,000 person to ask this but can anyone give me a line on where to buy a color wheel for the 4805. I have been shot down by most repair places and distributors, most of them want me to send them my projector for repair. Please help i miss my BIG SCREEN.

InFocus nor its SVC centers will sell it (1st hand experience). You'de have to get it through another SP-4805 owner.

I don't think the cleaning would be responsible. Have you tried with a different DVI source or your old PC to ensure it's not a computer setting/issue? Are you feeding it a supported data resoution (only 480p (854x480), VGA (640x480), SVGA (800x600), XGA (1024x768))

i do know that a can of compressed air can cause more damage than good sometimes. you could blow dust into parts of the machine would could adversly affect the image. A light vacuuming would be better if possible.

Yep, tried it ALL Poagman, check out the post a couple above the one you replied to, you'll see I've done just about everything you can think of. But something happened happened sometime between cleaning it with a can of duster and hooking it up that makes just the DVI not work. I'm clueless on this one.

I don't think the cleaning would be responsible. Have you tried with a different DVI source or your old PC to ensure it's not a computer setting/issue? Are you feeding it a supported data resoution (only 480p (854x480), VGA (640x480), SVGA (800x600), XGA (1024x768))

i do know that a can of compressed air can cause more damage than good sometimes. you could blow dust into parts of the machine would could adversly affect the image. A light vacuuming would be better if possible.

InFocus nor its SVC centers will sell it (1st hand experience). You'de have to get it through another SP-4805 owner.

There's a couple service centers in China that will let you buy the colorwheel. Though you gotta call them directly, and be able to speak Chinese. If you can meet those requirements, you can look for one of my posts a from a year or two back to find the contact name and phone number of a person/company who sells the colorwheel. I bought it for about $100 I think, but don't quote me on that, it's been awhile and it was in RMB (Chinese currency) at the time.

I just picked up a used 4805 and am very happy with it :) it replaced my Optoma dv-10 (broken color wheel). I'd say the 4805 is as bright if not brighter and image quality is definitely better. In fact, I'd venture to say the image quality is far superior to my dv-10. The contrast and color reproduction is striking in comparison.

My only complaint thus far is the noise! Man, the fan(s) in this thing are much louder and noticeable than the dv10. I'll have to scour the forums to see about upgrading the fans to something quieter.

I have a 4805 that a bought brand new several years ago when they first came out. Under warranty, I had to have the light tube replaced. I only have approximately 130 hours on the original bulb. I just ordered the new Optoma HD20 so I plan on selling the 4805. I must say the 4805 has the best 480p picture I have ever seen. The question is, what would be a fair price? I guess I could throw in the 76" screen since the HD20 is coming with a 106" screen.

I paid $325 total that's with tax/shipping etc. The unit is used, says 0 hours... but I highly doubt it's 0 hours. If that gives you any idea on the price.

I enjoyed my 4805 untill my color wheel broke on me after I bought a new lamp. It super good for SDTV/PS3. I am looking for a used 4805 so I can set it back up in the kids room so they can stay away from my HD20.

With that i'm willing to buy decent working unit, no bulb needed. Just looking for one without the buzz/light tube issue.

It's a sad day. My screenplay 4805 of three years died tonight. I turned it on and all I get are horizontal bars in black and white and gray, with a tiny amount of color mixed in. The unit accepts at least the shut down command from the remote but I can't tell about any other commands because of no image. Absolutely no image at all.
Anyone hazzard a guess as to what's happened? I do have a donor 4805 with no color wheel or lamp but I have no idea if the electronics are still good.
Okay, assuming it's a gonner, what's been the popular replacement? I don't necessarily need HD res. But I liked the contrast and brightness, it could have been a little quieter though.
Thaks,
-Mac

Started it up the other day, got the left sided blurr...got on here. found the problem, took it apart and fixed it.....well sorta..still a small blur on left side, but i just oversized the image and its off the screen. now, if anyone is buying a broken 4805 for other parts...PLEASE sell me the mirror/light tunnel....please. Because i know my repair isnt going to last forever, and i cant afford a new pj right now. Gosh, wouldny it be great if infocus had half ass customer service and offered to sell us that $2 part!!!! they did offer a $300 repair :(. Buck up and offer us the part..you know it breaks, and you know it is an easy repair. Thanks

ramw5p,
It may be that you have some glue on the outside of the tunnel, keeping it from sitting in it's carrier correctly. It took me twice to get it right too. Did you get all the sides flush and straight? If it's a glue glob on the outside of the tunnel, simply sand it down, clean it in 90%+ alcohol, and replace it. No need to think about a new projector yet.
Good luck.

My trusty SP4805 seems to have given up the ghost. The PJ starts up OK with beep/flashing green led and fans all kicking in but the bulb is failing to strike. After 5 times get what I think is a single flashing red error code, but following the manual's instructions I've checked the bulb, door etc for a loose connection and the bulb itself looks mint. It's very odd because it's wall mounted and so rarely touched, so I can't see that anything has come loose. Tried a manual reset of lamp hours just in case was cause, even though bulb has less than 1000 hours on it.

I'm relaxed about taking it apart having already carried out a light tunnel repair, but I'm not sure where to start looking if there is a power supply problem to the bulb. I'm also without a voltmeter for more advanced testing. Anyone else had the same issue? Could it be a blown internal fuse? I've been searching everywhere for a service manual - any ideas?

More than likely it's a dead bulb. That would be the first thing I'd check before tearing into anything.

Okay, assuming it's a gonner, what's been the popular replacement? I don't necessarily need HD res. But I liked the contrast and brightness, it could have been a little quieter though.
Thaks,
-Mac

before hd projectors were affordable to the masses i think a lot of people (myself included) replaced an sp4805 with the IN72. when infocus stopped making the 4805 that was their replacement model. i got mine about three years ago and its still going strong with around 1000 hours on the bulb (hopefully i'm not jinxing myself by saying that). sounds like it'd be a good fit for what you're looking for. it's got every bit as much contrast if not more, distinctly better brightness, equally stunning color and is definitely quieter. it will sync to a 48hz and 72hz signal just like the 4805, has an hdmi input in addition to the m1-da, and sealed optics so you don't have to worry about cleaning filters. it's since been discontinued also, but you can still find it pretty readily available on a certain popular auction site that begins with e and ends with bay.

I've been looking at the IN72, it sounds perfect. Does anyone know if it has suffered the usual maladies such as the collapsing light tube, dust blobs, and chainsaw color wheel?
Actually, I unplugged the ol' 4805 overnight and it was right as rain the next morning and has been ever since. Still, I may grab an IN72 before they disappear altogether.
absolootbs, does it happen to have the same ceiling mount bolt pattern? I made a custom mount for my 4805 out of cherry.
Thanks dude

I've been looking at the IN72, it sounds perfect. Does anyone know if it has suffered the usual maladies such as the collapsing light tube, dust blobs, and chainsaw color wheel?
Actually, I unplugged the ol' 4805 overnight and it was right as rain the next morning and has been ever since. Still, I may grab an IN72 before they disappear altogether.
absolootbs, does it happen to have the same ceiling mount bolt pattern? I made a custom mount for my 4805 out of cherry.
Thanks dude

i can tell you it definitely does not have the dust blob issues, thanks to the sealed optics (no way for dust blobs to get in the light path, unless they're already in there). as far as the light tunnel and the color wheel, i never heard anyone mentioning those issues back when i got mine, but i haven't followed that thread for a year or two now.

no, the ceiling mount pattern is different and far dumber. iirc the 4805 had a very logical 4 bolt, front-back-left-right configuration. the in72 has a 3 bolt non symmetrical triangle (front-ish mid right, back right, back left). if you're a diy mount enthusiast (read: cheap a$$) like me you like the ability to make fine pitch and yaw adjustments using the mount bolts. the in72 makes this darn near impossible with it's configuration. and even if that doesn't make any difference to you, you will still have to redrill or redo your nice custom mount :(

So there is an IN72 owners thread? I'll have to look that up.
The 4805 does have a three bolt pattern and it's two evenly spaced in back and one in front. Very easy pitch n' yaw and up n' down (for switching from 2.35:1 to 1.85:1).
Maybe if one made a two-plate system with the three bolts between the two plates (one on top of projector stays static).
Anyway, thanks.

So there is an IN72 owners thread?Look HERE (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=620726&highlight=in72).

I've just replaced the bulb in my 3.5-year-old 4805 PJ, and I'm worried that the new bulb might explode (the original bulb just exploded on me this week while playing xbox for about 1 hour). Any feedback? Not sure if bulbs explode at the end of their life cycle or if it's indicative of a fan problem (but then if it overheated, isn't it supposed to shut down automatically?).

I can feel airflow with my hand in front of the PJ when it's on, so does that mean that the fans are working okay? I've seen old posts about fan replacement procedures, but all the links to helpful pictures in those old posts are no longer working. :-(

So any advice (for a beginner) on how to check the fans' functioning capacity and/or procedure on how to replace the fans would be greatly appreciated. And on the plus side, the new bulb seems noticeably brighter.

I've just replaced the bulb in my 3.5-year-old 4805 PJ, and I'm worried that the new bulb might explodeRelax!

You are quite right ... the system will shutdown if it overheats.

Lamp failure modes include exploding but there is nothing special about that - you lucked out.

Get a glass of wine/beer and enjoy a movie with your "new" bright projector. :D

I've been looking at the IN72, it sounds perfect. Does anyone know if it has suffered the usual maladies such as the collapsing light tube, dust blobs, and chainsaw color wheel?
Actually, I unplugged the ol' 4805 overnight and it was right as rain the next morning and has been ever since. Still, I may grab an IN72 before they disappear altogether.
absolootbs, does it happen to have the same ceiling mount bolt pattern? I made a custom mount for my 4805 out of cherry.
Thanks dude

grab IN72 from where?
you can only buy used IN72!

I have a dark/shadow area on the right side of screen when pj is on whether with source playing through or not. The bulb has a 1000 or so hrs on it and seems bright as ever. I removed bulb assembly...dusted the filters...replaced. Same issue still. Could the wheel that has colors on it be slightly melted on edges or something like that...? It started out as a narrow strip and now is wider. I really enjoy the pj for movies, concerts, x360, etc but this shadow about 8 inches wide for the entire height of picture is disturbing. Any ideas...similar problems? Thanks.

I have a dark/shadow area on the right side of screen when pj is on whether with source playing through or not.Congratulations! Search this thread for 'light tunnel'.

Sure...gee, thanks. Did not know I was so lucky. Think I'll use the 4805 as a door stop or something. Well, maybe I'll take it apart some and investigate. Otherwise door stop it is.

Sure...gee, thanks. Did not know I was so lucky. Think I'll use the 4805 as a door stop or something. Well, maybe I'll take it apart some and investigate. Otherwise door stop it is.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=618877

I was lucky enough to have my light tunnel fail under warranty--though when they sent it back, something else didn't work, and it had to go back--I got a lot more use out of it after that. But I retired it recently, knowing that I would soon have to drop $300 on a bulb, and instead put the money to a new Panasonic AX-200U--got it for $949, and couldn't be happier, much nicer image than the 4805, overall.
Still have my 4805--might consider selling it if you want to cannibalize it for parts...

I was lucky enough to have my light tunnel fail under warranty--though when they sent it back, something else didn't work, and it had to go back--I got a lot more use out of it after that. But I retired it recently, knowing that I would soon have to drop $300 on a bulb, and instead put the money to a new Panasonic AX-200U--got it for $949, and couldn't be happier, much nicer image than the 4805, overall.
Still have my 4805--might consider selling it if you want to cannibalize it for parts...

I'll actually end up selling mine for parts as well if I can't fix it myself. Only has about a 1000 hrs or so on it over the last 3 yrs.:(

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=618877

That's exactly what my rig is looking like...shadow on right side...darn!!! Guess I'll take it apart sometime soon when there is nothing better to do.

I was lucky enough to have my light tunnel fail under warranty--though when they sent it back, something else didn't work, and it had to go back--I got a lot more use out of it after that. But I retired it recently, knowing that I would soon have to drop $300 on a bulb, and instead put the money to a new Panasonic AX-200U--got it for $949, and couldn't be happier, much nicer image than the 4805, overall.
Still have my 4805--might consider selling it if you want to cannibalize it for parts...

Not to get off subject/brand...I would love to get a ax200 or better yet a hd20...but, I don't have a grand to spend...or even close to that at this time. I'm going to investigate it myself and just save for upgrade in the meantime. I just watched a couple hrs worth of stuff and it's not that big of a problem. I mean, it does still project. Oh well...I 'll post after surgery w/ results or there lack of:eek: Cross yer' fingers.

Thanks a bunch to you all!

Since you are going to operate on your 4805, I must share my scariest moment. At one point I tried to VERY carefully get some dust out of the color wheel area--and wound up with the inevitable dust blobs. So I took it apart (which I had done before after my first incredibly stupid use of Dust-Off on the thing) and cleaned the light path. When I got to the condenser lens, it had a bit of a film on it, so I decided to make my 4805 brand-spanin'-new clean, and took lens cleaner to it. Now, who would think that a cleaner made for high-quality camera lenses would be bad in this situation? As you can guess, it attacked the plastic like crazy! I tried to polish it up as best I could, but it was covered with millions of scratches, to the point it almost looked frosted. I began desperately searching on line to see if I could get a new one--I think I did find a source, and it wasn't even outrageous in price--but I finally just put the thing back together (especially not wanting to tell my wife what an idiot I had been) and rehung it and fired it up. It looked better than ever...

I have been very happy with my 4805, right now , im just waiting for the bulb to go out on it , Its getting close to the end of its life lol , seems like my picure isnt near as bright as it used to be,

Im having a hard time debating whether to put money towards a new 1080 projector , around the $1000 dollar range, or if I rather buy a 46 in samsung lcd

i like the big picture and all , but this 120 hz lcd that mom and dad got is really smooth and nice

Well as promised I am posting results of fixing light tunnel. I was almost at it and the color wheel hit the edge of light housing...yep...broke. I'm over it...moving on. I am going to dump it for parts. Bulb has about 1000-1100 on it. Pm me for info.

I have been very happy with my 4805, right now , im just waiting for the bulb to go out on it , Its getting close to the end of its life lol , seems like my picure isnt near as bright as it used to be,

Im having a hard time debating whether to put money towards a new 1080 projector , around the $1000 dollar range, or if I rather buy a 46 in samsung lcd

i like the big picture and all , but this 120 hz lcd that mom and dad got is really smooth and nice

May not be worth the time/risk, but my 4805 would always look much better after cleaning the color wheel. It develops a grey film on it over time that can really limit light transmission. I would clean it with a q-tip and camera lens cleaner, very gently of course. On a few occasions I took the projector apart and cleaned the whole light path, i.e., the mirror and the condenser lens, and blew dust off anything else. But then you can also clean the back side of the color wheel, which, though not as bad as the other side facing the bulb, also builds up a film.
But if you try it, and it goes wrong--don't say I didn't warn you! And, of course, never use dust-off, or blow air in the thing in any way.
Craig

bulb for 4805 gone...sorry you missed out...I tried.

I'm having an issue with the projector. I just got it back from being service (they fixed the issue with the large brown/yellow line on the side of the screen). However, now the picture is extremely slanted - one side is tall and then the top gradually slopes down so that the other side is much shorter. On an image projected at about 95", one side is about 5" taller than the other. The keystone setting doesn't seem to be doing anything. Is this something I can change using settings or did they just perhaps mess something up internally?

did they just perhaps mess something up internally?Yes. :mad:

I'm having an issue with the projector. I just got it back from being service (they fixed the issue with the large brown/yellow line on the side of the screen). However, now the picture is extremely slanted - one side is tall and then the top gradually slopes down so that the other side is much shorter. On an image projected at about 95", one side is about 5" taller than the other. The keystone setting doesn't seem to be doing anything. Is this something I can change using settings or did they just perhaps mess something up internally?

It might just be that the pj is not square with the screen. Can you move the pj side to side and see if that evens it out?

It's definitely not a problem with it being square to the screen - I moved it all around. Plus, I specifically measured the difference with measuring tape on the left and right side of the image - one side is DEFINITELY quite a bit shorter than the other side. It is certainly sloping down from left to right, making it such that the left side is much higher than the right. I just don't know if this is correctable using the settings on the machine.

What exactly is keystone supposed to do? I can set it at 1 or 99 and I notice no difference whatsoever on screen - it just looks still as if nothing happened. This is not common, is it?

That sounds really bad. Is the focus different from side to side also? My guess is that something in the optical path is out of whack--based on what I know about it, I would think either the chip got knocked out of place, or an element of the lens has move. Is the lens itself still straight and square compared to the chassis? It is held to the chassis by three screws, as I recall, and if it wasn't square that could also cause the problem. I think if you shine a light through the lens (with the projector off) you should be able to see the chip back there--does it look even and square?

That sounds really bad. Is the focus different from side to side also? My guess is that something in the optical path is out of whack--based on what I know about it, I would think either the chip got knocked out of place, or an element of the lens has move. Is the lens itself still straight and square compared to the chassis? It is held to the chassis by three screws, as I recall, and if it wasn't square that could also cause the problem. I think if you shine a light through the lens (with the projector off) you should be able to see the chip back there--does it look even and square?

I think you hit the nail on the head.

I looked through the lens with a flashlight and saw a small piece of SOMETHING (not sure what it is exactly, but it's gray) slanting downward in the top corner of the light path (where the image is slanting down). Apparently they did not do a very efficient job of lining this up - and I'm not sure how they could have tested it without seeing this problem. Could it have been knocked out of place during shipping or something?

Do search for "light tunnel". It's a little square tube made of 4 tiny mirrors. The glue fails and the tube collapses. It can be glued back together. Somewhere on here there is instructions with pictures.

I think you hit the nail on the head.

I looked through the lens with a flashlight and saw a small piece of SOMETHING (not sure what it is exactly, but it's gray) slanting downward in the top corner of the light path (where the image is slanting down). Apparently they did not do a very efficient job of lining this up - and I'm not sure how they could have tested it without seeing this problem. Could it have been knocked out of place during shipping or something?

Believe it or not, that thing is normal--that is, if you mean the thing that runs at about a 45 deg angle across the upper left portion of the lens as you look into it. Based on my memory of the layout in there, I think that may be the edge of the condenser lens. It must be close enough to the nodal point of the lens that it doesn't effect anything. What I was wondering is if the DLP chip itself looked non-rectangular, but it is probably hard to tell, based on my staring into mine. Tell me this--do the different sides of the image focus differently?

Apparently they did not do a very efficient job of lining this up - and I'm not sure how they could have tested it without seeing this problem.Why are you still talking about this and not sending the PJ back to the service shop??!! :rolleyes:

Damn...Well I'm not sure what the problem is then - I thought that was it for sure.

At any rate, I brought it back today and they are going to send it out for repair again. Hopefully the problem is fixed...And not 2 months from now.

I changed the DVI port to my dvd and I saw a blank screen.
Then I switched it back to my cable set top box and the DVI port went dead, I am not able to restore it after 6 years of use. Only the component ports work on the infocus.
Any clues, how I can have this repaired.

My 4805 seems to have died after 5 years. I just get a flashing green light for a few minutes, then it turns to red. Due to it's age and my desire to upgrade to 1080p I've already ordered a replacement but I'm curious if the parts/lamp (1000hrs) would be worth anything? I'd rather give it to someone who might salvage it than throw it away. Thoughts?

My 4805 seems to have died after 5 years. I just get a flashing green light for a few minutes, then it turns to red. Due to it's age and my desire to upgrade to 1080p I've already ordered a replacement but I'm curious if the parts/lamp (1000hrs) would be worth anything? I'd rather give it to someone who might salvage it than throw it away. Thoughts?

Give your bulb to cavu. He's certainly earned it through his dedication to this thread.

I'd bet that there is a taker out there for your color wheel as well.

Even though X-Mas is over, it's good to see that you're in the giving spirit. :)

Does anybody here run a WDTV with their 4805?

If so what resolution mode were you able to get it to work with the DVI cable. I can only get 480p to work with the DVI in Auto output mode on the WDTV.

When I used component input, I was able to get to to work at 1080i and that looks better than the 480p DVI.

Any suggestions on how to get the DVI input on the 4805 to work with 1080i?

Other suggestions?

Thanks!!

I figured out my above problem...I just turned off autosource on the 4805 and now it takes in any output from the WDTV Live.

Anyone have a used bulb for cheap? I bought a second hand 4805, repaired the light tunnel, and basically tore the whole thing down, I dont want to spend 300 bucks on a bulb to find out it doesnt work right lol. If anyone needs any pics of the inside or components let me know ill snap some while I have it apart, its easy to work on, just be realllllly careful around the color wheel.

I have a used bulb sitting around. It probably has 1500 hours on it. I don't know it's status, as it hasn't been lit for 2 years. You can have it. If it works, you can send me a couple of bucks for postage.

I remember somebody used to sell light tunnel for this projector. Now I can not find that name :-(

- Vikas

PM sent

Anyone have a used bulb for cheap? I bought a second hand 4805, repaired the light tunnel, and basically tore the whole thing down, I dont want to spend 300 bucks on a bulb to find out it doesnt work right lol. If anyone needs any pics of the inside or components let me know ill snap some while I have it apart, its easy to work on, just be realllllly careful around the color wheel.

I'll second the call for a cheap bulb. Mine blew on Christmas day, right in the middle of the kids' Wii Sports Resort marathon....

Please pm me if you have one you can unload. Thanks!

Doug

I hear you on bulbs. Ive had mine with a burnt bulb for 2 years. Theres no way I was going to pay a couple hundred for a bulb. I actually modded it so it will stay on without a bulb. Was going to try a bulb mod on it, but the project got pushed to the back burner as I got married and have moved a few times. So if anyone know of a cheap bulb let me know also. Id like to just fire it up again.

My SP4805 is starting to show "light tunnel collapse disease" and the lamp is probably on borrow time (the PJ is 5.5yrs old w/ the original bulb).

I've narrowed down my search for a replacement to the following 4:

Optoma HD20
Vivitek H1080FD
Mitsubishi HC3800
Epson Home Cinema 8100

After reading a bunch of reviews on projectorcentral.com and projectorreviews.com, I'm leaning towards the HC3800.

I have a basement home theater, with almost 0 ambient light (even in the day time).

Anyone here have any experience with any of these projectors?

What are your upgrade plans?

So after months I'm putting my 4805 back together and dumb me didn't mark the focus and zoom ring locations before I pulled them off, is there anything I need to know about this, I wouldn't figure it goes on but one way but maybe someone who has done this can confirm for me?

Thanks! Also a special thanks to SteveCS for helping me get this project back on its feet!

I am officially off to the Optoma HD20 forum. It has been a great 5 years! Thanks everyone. My 4805 has been a champ the whole time. One reccomendation: Infocus should replace the "replace lamp" message with this text: "Replace Projector"

I am now at 1080 for $100 more than I paid for the 4805 back in 2004.

I am using the same screen and ceiling mount throwing at about 13 feet for about +-104 inches diagonal.

so far so good. see you all.

Well everyone I feel like I may have met my match...my color wheel is clean and perfect, my light tunnel appears to be intact and square, I reassemble, got a used but supposed to be good bulb..I fire it up, color wheel spins, green LED flashes, no light...15 seconds later, spin, flash, no light....after 5 attempts, slow flashing red LED..so my guess is the bulb is no good from what the manual states, or i'm not getting voltage to the bulb carrier plug, is there anyway to test that? I may have to let go of this project :(

It was painful to see/have my 4805 start to have problems. The way I figure it is I used it for about 5 yrs at a cost of $700 which included a screen/84in. I sold the bulb and pj for parts...applied the $300 towards a new 1080p pj...priceless. No regrets even though as I mentioned...it was hard to say goodbye:)

My 4805 seems to have died after 5 years. I just get a flashing green light for a few minutes, then it turns to red. Due to it's age and my desire to upgrade to 1080p I've already ordered a replacement but I'm curious if the parts/lamp (1000hrs) would be worth anything? I'd rather give it to someone who might salvage it than throw it away. Thoughts?

I've had good luck with my 4805 for 5 years now. I've got about 200hrs on the new bulb, so I'd like to continue using it for a while. I just heard a pop, and subsequently no longer have any color in the image. All other image qualities appear to be in tact. Would this be indicative of a failed color wheel? If so, I'd be interested purchasing a used color wheel.

I've had good luck with my 4805 for 5 years now. I've got about 200hrs on the new bulb, so I'd like to continue using it for a while. I just heard a pop, and subsequently no longer have any color in the image. All other image qualities appear to be in tact. Would this be indicative of a failed color wheel? If so, I'd be interested purchasing a used color wheel.

Good luck on the color wheel. A sure way to tell is remove the lamp housing and look...it's right there. Several 4805 owners have searched high and low for the cw...hen's teeth rare and if you find one it cost about as much as you could find a whole unit off the bay for. I loved my 4805 but upgrade to something newer/better has been absolutely wonderful so far especially w/ bluray movies/concerts...wow! I say out with the old...in with the new.

if anyone is interested I will sell my 4805 for $100, it powers on, color wheel is working/all pieces intact, its clean inside, light tunnel appears to be intact and without damage as of last time I used the projector, it has a bulb in it that the projector won't light, assuming bad bulb as everything else powers up. Let me know, can take pics if needed. Would be a good project for your broken 4805, or get a new bulb and enjoy it as is.

mnnc,
Mind if I ask what ou upgraded to. I'm definitely in the market to upgrade to something much better. I do freelance photography on the side, so my plan is to get the 4805 back in working order and use it for DVD slideshow wedding presentations.

if anyone is interested I will sell my 4805 for $100, it powers on, color wheel is working/all pieces intact, its clean inside, light tunnel appears to be intact and without damage as of last time I used the projector, it has a bulb in it that the projector won't light, assuming bad bulb as everything else powers up. Let me know, can take pics if needed. Would be a good project for your broken 4805, or get a new bulb and enjoy it as is.

I'm definitely interested. I need to doublecheck that the color wheel is in fact the problem b4 I pull the trigger. Any experience with replacing the colorwheel on the 4805?

mnnc,
Mind if I ask what ou upgraded to. I'm definitely in the market to upgrade to something much better. I do freelance photography on the side, so my plan is to get the 4805 back in working order and use it for DVD slideshow wedding presentations.

I purchased a new Epson 8100 when BB had the 'crazy' price back around thanxgving...the 4805 would work quite well for your work though it suffers w/ ambient lighting as you probably know.

There are a few posts somewhere in this thread that link to cleaning it and disassembly, having taken mine apart I can tell you that the majority of the projector needs to come apart as the wheel is easy to get to, the ribbon and its connection point however, are not. Let me know, send me a PM

I'm definitely interested. I need to doublecheck that the color wheel is in fact the problem b4 I pull the trigger. Any experience with replacing the colorwheel on the 4805?

I took my 4805 apart...not really difficult as it is tedious. Very small screws and the color wheel is a color wheel/motor assembly that fits in a tight spot without much room for moving around. You don't just reach in there and grab it if you know what I mean. I made a sudden jerk and the wheel hit the lamp assembly...crack, smash, boom...it was destroyed. I bit the bullet and upgraded to 1080p...new Epson...could not be happier though memories of 4805 are fond ones indeed. I had a great pic for it's time but is a bit dated now. Type "4805 light tunnel" in search bar on this site...it will direct you to a couple good posts w/ pics as well.

I'm definitely interested. I need to doublecheck that the color wheel is in fact the problem b4 I pull the trigger. Any experience with replacing the colorwheel on the 4805?

Search" 4805 light tunnel" problem in search bar here...Remove lamp assembly/housing and look inside...you will see colorwheel. It will bi intact or missing a particular shade/part as the wheel is made of several individ color pieces to make up the whole thing...it will be obvious as to whether or not it's broke. Caution...very thin glass that color wheel...snap, crackle, pop if u know what I mean.

Yeah viewing it thru the lamp housing is an easy way to check it, and true story I felt like if I looked at it to hard it might break lol. I really wish these bulbs weren't so expensive I hate having to let my 4805 go, but hopefully one of you guys will pick it up and bring yours back to life.

I just recently replaced my lamp (probably the last time), but the projector now will not strike consistently. If I work at it and do a hard start after the first red LED I can usually get it to start. I am not sure if this is a problem with the lamp door switch or the lamp itself. If it is the lamp, I would like to know quickly so I can send it back!