I just recently replaced my lamp (probably the last time), but the projector now will not strike consistently. If I work at it and do a hard start after the first red LED I can usually get it to start. I am not sure if this is a problem with the lamp door switch or the lamp itself. If it is the lamp, I would like to know quickly so I can send it back!

I had a similar problem. Lamp would strike on power up, then a minute later, lamp would go out with a blinking red led (3 blinks). I replaced it with a new lamp but the problem persisted.

Finally, I reloaded the Firmware and the 4805 works perfectly. I put the old lamp back in and it's still working.

I remember somebody used to sell light tunnel for this projector. Now I can not find that name :-(

- Vikas

My Light Tunnel collapsed a couple of years ago. I tried re-gluing it together but the result was not good and the glue gave way after a few hours of usage.

Finally, I bought some Square Brass Tubing from a Hobby shop and cut it to length and polished the inside. It works fine but you need to increase the brightness to 60 as the inside is not mirror finished. The PQ is fine and you can hardly tell the difference. It may be possible to have the Brass tube mirror/chrome plated by a plating company and I would say that this fix would then be better than the original glass light tunnel.

My 4805 is now over 5 yeas old with over 2000 hrs (half power) on the same lamp. The color wheel is fine and so are the fans. I always keep the filters and surrounds clean and free from dust. There are no dust blobs or strange noises. I have always run it on half power and use soft turn off followed by hard shud down about 30 seconds later. I use full power mode for a few hours every 500 hrs or so or if I see some flicker in the Lamp.

The Light Tunnel was replaced with a home made unit and the Firmware was reloaded to fix a fault as mentioned above.

Overall, the 4805 has been fantastic to own.

Thanks.
Sam

My Light Tunnel collapsed a couple of years ago. I tried re-gluing it together but the result was not good and the glue gave way after a few hours of usage.

Finally, I bought some Square Brass Tubing from a Hobby shop and cut it to length and polished the inside. It works fine but you need to increase the brightness to 60 as the inside is not mirror finished. The PQ is fine and you can hardly tell the difference. It may be possible to have the Brass tube mirror/chrome plated by a plating company and I would say that this fix would then be better than the original glass light tunnel.

That is a clever idea to use brass tubing for the light tunnel. I just had an idea that you could take the brass tube and dip it in molten silver solder. I don't know if it would work but may be worth a try. I remember reading about a guy who used the platter from a hard drive that he machined into a light tunnel. Good luck if you continue to experiment.

I wonder if a custom glass & mirror shop could fabricate a light tunnel.

I still have my 4805 up for grabs for parts, powers on, color wheel good, tunnel appears to be good as well, dead bulb. PM me some realistic offers would love to see someone keep using their 4805 its to good of a projector to junk.

Hi folks,

does anyone know where i can get a new infocus 4805 fan to replace the failed one? It is the bigger one , .38 A and 12V.

Thanks in advance

vgg313, where 'bouts are you? I've got an old 4805 with a functional fan but dead lamp. I'm in Ontario, Canada. Yours for a song (freeee).

Quaid,

That would be great. I am at northern California. please email me at vgg313@yahoo.com so that we can discuss further...

How do you know if the color wheel is bad? Everything works on mine but it makes a whining noise while running now.

How do you know if the color wheel is bad? Everything works on mine but it makes a whining noise while running now.

easiest way is to look through the lamp housing without the lamp in at the color wheel. If everything is working and the colors arent off I dont suspect that to be your issue.

I am officially off to the Optoma HD20 forum. It has been a great 5 years! Thanks everyone. My 4805 has been a champ the whole time. One reccomendation: Infocus should replace the "replace lamp" message with this text: "Replace Projector"

I am now at 1080 for $100 more than I paid for the 4805 back in 2004.

I am using the same screen and ceiling mount throwing at about 13 feet for about +-104 inches diagonal.

so far so good. see you all.

I'm not too far behind you. My 4805 is still running after all these years, but I get some random strange bootup effects sometimes. It has been (and still is) a good PJ.

How do you know if the color wheel is bad? Everything works on mine but it makes a whining noise while running now.

The color wheel is on a little motor/bearing...it has turned so much by now it's wearing out. You could attemp ,if you are comfortable with doing so, to take the case apart and put a drop...one tiny drop of sewing machine oil or 3 in 1 oil on the motor shaft. Another culprit could be the fan motor...either way it's a motor/bearing issue. I loved my 4805 but since upgrade...no regrets...don't miss it at all.

I am trying to connect my 4805 to a BD player using HDMI cable. I understand that I need an M1-DA adapter that has a female HDMI port on the other side where I can plug in a Male HDMI cable that would be coming from my HDMI switch.

I searched Monoprice and am confused as to which one is the right adapter for me for this purpose as using pics I tried to compare the connectors on the back of the 4805 vs. M1 adapter pics on Monoprice and they don't seem to line up.

I cannot find anything with the 2 vertical prongs on the side next to the 30 pins but rather a single pin only. See this link.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041906&p_id=2690&seq=1&format=1#largeimage

Can someone please point me to the right adapter for this purpose? Am I missing something when comparing these pictures?

Thanks

I am trying to connect my 4805 to a BD player using HDMI cable. I understand that I need an M1-DA adapter that has a female HDMI port on the other side where I can plug in a Male HDMI cable that would be coming from my HDMI switch. The adapter you want is the exact opposite of the one in your link!!

You need THIS (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041906&p_id=2689&seq=1&format=2) one:

http://images.monoprice.com/productlargeimages/26891.jpg

But I don't understand why you would use an "adapter" when you could simply get the correct HDMI-M1 cable (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10238&cs_id=1023802&p_id=2815&seq=1&format=2) in the first place:

http://images.monoprice.com/productlargeimages/28151.jpg

Using an "adapter" is going to put considerable strain on the "HDMI" junction at the adapter because of the stiffness of long cables.

The adapter you want is the exact opposite of the one in your link!!

You need THIS (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041906&p_id=2689&seq=1&format=2) one:

http://images.monoprice.com/productlargeimages/26891.jpg

But I don't understand why you would use an "adapter" when you could simply get the correct HDMI-M1 cable (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10238&cs_id=1023802&p_id=2815&seq=1&format=2) in the first place:

http://images.monoprice.com/productlargeimages/28151.jpg

Using an "adapter" is going to put considerable strain on the "HDMI" junction at the adapter because of the stiffness of long cables.

Thanks Cavu.

I realized that I posted the wrong link. The one that you have posted is the one I was thinking about but was getting confused as I tried to match the side prongs thinking that they would not fit in the M1-DA port.

But I digress. Will take your advice and get this one.

The reason I want to get HDMI cable is because my 4805 is on its last legs and I will upgrade probably in the next 6 months. And it is very likely that the new projector will have HDMI input, thus at that time I can simply get rid of the M1 adapter and use the same HDMI cable that I am going to run to the ceiling to plug it directly in to the PJ from the source.

Hope that makes sense.

Thanks Cavu.

I realized that I posted the wrong link. The one that you have posted is the one I was thinking about but was getting confused as I tried to match the side prongs thinking that they would not fit in the M1-DA port.

But I digress. Will take your advice and get this one.

The reason I want to get HDMI cable is because my 4805 is on its last legs and I will upgrade probably in the next 6 months. And it is very likely that the new projector will have HDMI input, thus at that time I can simply get rid of the M1 adapter and use the same HDMI cable that I am going to run to the ceiling to plug it directly in to the PJ from the source.

Hope that makes sense.

I would reconsider getting the cable that is terminated with m1. Reason being is that you will eventually upgrade and have to purchase an adaptor to use with hdmi input. Put your money in hdmi to hdmi and use a m1 adaptor. The stress on connections is not an issue unless you have it in a bind or something...you can have the adaptor I used and have...just pm me.

I would reconsider getting the cable that is terminated with m1. Reason being is that you will eventually upgrade and have to purchase an adaptor to use with hdmi input. Put your money in hdmi to hdmi and use a m1 adaptor. The stress on connections is not an issue unless you have it in a bind or something...you can have the adaptor I used and have...just pm me.

That is exactly what I plan to do. When I said i will get "that one" I was referring to the M1 adapter's pic that Cavu posted. As you mentioned it makes sense to plan ahead as most PJ's will have an HDMI input and all sources now output in HDMI.


Another related question to this is that in reality I need a 27 foot HDMI cable to go from HDMI switch to PJ. However, Monoprice only has a 25 foot cable that is HDMI 1.3a spec. I could get their 30 feet cable but it is 1.2b spec, and given that all my HDMI cables that will be going from the source to the HDMI switch would be 1.3a spec, it does not make sense for me to get the output cable to the PJ to be 1.2b spec. So now I could get a 2 foot extension cable that is 1.3a spec, would that be a good solution?

Does all this HDMI spec 1.3a and 1.2b even matter with cables?


Thanks

FWIW: I came across this listing of SP4805 part numbers/prices. Apparently it came from "Projector Doctor (http://online.projectordoctor.com/)".

- 526-0193-00 FAN,60, MMEZL12NM002, 2406KL-04W-B50-T13 $19.00
- 526-0192-00 FAN,80, MMEZL12NH003, D08G-12TS401(MA) $19.00
- 525-0146-00 S/A, COLOR WHEEL KIT, SP-4805 SERVICE $100.00
- 306-0095-01 TUNNEL, SP,TSUNAMI-PLUS HOME $29.00

FWIW: I came across this listing of SP4805 part numbers/prices. Apparently it came from "Projector Doctor (http://online.projectordoctor.com/)".

- 526-0193-00 FAN,60, MMEZL12NM002, 2406KL-04W-B50-T13 $19.00
- 526-0192-00 FAN,80, MMEZL12NH003, D08G-12TS401(MA) $19.00
- 525-0146-00 S/A, COLOR WHEEL KIT, SP-4805 SERVICE $100.00
- 306-0095-01 TUNNEL, SP,TSUNAMI-PLUS HOME $29.00

Wow, I saw this and thought YES, I can get a new light tunnel for my SP4805 and get a bit more life out of it but going to that website, I can't find that part number via search and they didn't have it under parts for this projector?

http://online.projectordoctor.com/InFocus-ScreenPlay-4805

Wow, I saw this and thought YES, I can get a new light tunnel for my SP4805 and get a bit more life out of it but going to that website, I can't find that part number via search and they didn't have it under parts for this projector?

http://online.projectordoctor.com/InFocus-ScreenPlay-4805

I too requested a light tunnel from Projector Doctor but got no reply. Those prices are old and the parts have been discontinued. I did however find a tech that could order the part for me from his supplier. Try contacting Sheridan1952, he may be able to get you a light tunnel.

Hi all,

I Picked up a 4805 from my brother for dirt cheap (free + a $70 light tunnel :)) Just got through literally half of my first movie on it, and "POP" picture is gone. Haven't checked yet, but I'm assuming the bulb is done. I'll buy a new projector before I pay $200 for a new bulb. Does anyone have a source for cheap bulbs, or have one used with low hours that you'd like to sell?

Hi all,

I Picked up a 4805 from my brother for dirt cheap (free + a $70 light tunnel :)) Just got through literally half of my first movie on it, and "POP" picture is gone. Haven't checked yet, but I'm assuming the bulb is done. I'll buy a new projector before I pay $200 for a new bulb. Does anyone have a source for cheap bulbs, or have one used with low hours that you'd like to sell?

You might try relampit.com to see if they can put a new lamp in your current lamp housing. I'm curious what they would charge for it so please let us know if you contact them. Good luck.

You might try relampit.com to see if they can put a new lamp in your current lamp housing. I'm curious what they would charge for it so please let us know if you contact them. Good luck.
Thanks for the suggestion, but I wound up grabbing a brand new Optoma HD65 from best buy for $399 yesterday.

So... I have a 4805 with recently replaced light tunnel and good color wheel sitting here if anyone wants it. It'll most likely go up on ebay soon.

buying from a seller on Amazon,the item is new and has never been registered you guys think the manufacture warranty will cover any damage?http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/images/icons/icon13.gif No.

Infocus warranties are only honoured if purchased from an authorized dealer.

Try a Square Trade, Warrantech or SageMax aftermarket warranty. Caveat Emptor!

i dont understand what you trying to said this guy is selling me a hc3800 for 1130 on amazon:confused: I don't understand why you are asking a question about a Mitsubishi on an InFocus thread!@#$% I assumed you were asking about an InFocus product and the answer I gave is the correct one. if the projector is new mitsubishi it suppose to cover because never been register and i think it will go by the year they make itI do not know Mitsubishi's policies but I suspect they are the same as InFocus: If you can't provide a sales receipt from a Mitsubishi-authorized reseller, you will have no warranty!!

Ask your question on a Mitsubishi owner's thread, not here!!

As an example, here is the wording from the LIMITED WARRANTY FOR MULTIMEDIA PROJECTORS
This limited warranty is offered by MITSUBISHI ELECTRIC SALES CANADA INC. (“MESCA”) and applies to Mitsubishi Multimedia Projectors (the “Projector”) which have been purchased in Canada in new, unused condition from an authorized dealer or reseller of MESCA.

Projectors that have been purchased outside of Canada or from sources within Canada that did not originate from MESCA via authorized dealers or resellers are specifically excluded from this warranty.

Phone Mitsubishi directly to confirm the warranty status of the unit you wish to purchase BEFORE you buy it!

My lamp finally went to sleep and not being in the market just yet for a new projector I put another lamp in it seeing how my dead lamp lasted 5 years I used http://www.apexlamps.com/
in 5 years we will have a better selection of sub 1k models cheaper LED units and know the the real cost of 3D upgradist
someone was inquiring about cables and adapters monoprice isnt the only game in town for cheap I went with firefold for my cables adapters and switch/splitters

Since Monoprice has been having issues, I went with Tartan Cables. Got me a 40ft HDMI and got a M1 adapter from another site and they work perfectly. Figured I might as well get the adapter detached in case my 4805 craps out, not running cable in the attic again if I can help it.

I don't know how many still read this thread, but can I just say that on a high-gain screen for 480 resolution content, the picture quality of this projector is still very outstanding! We have a (very) large standard def DVD library, so in the HT room, I have a 4805 mounted with just 300 hours of total life (PJ in total, not just the lamp). After trying several different combinations, I find the component video input for DVD sending 480i gives the most "film-like" PQ that I prefer, and the color saturation and contrast are ridiculously good for technology this dated and a PJ that was this cheap.

I bought this as a "backup" and part-time PJ back in the day, but never had the chance to mount it up in a separate room until recently. I figured it would tide me over until I'm ready to buy a more up-to-date, 1080p PJ and I have built a bit of a blu-ray library.

But compared to some current version PJs I've seen, for SD content, the 4805 actually has a superior overall PQ. Very nice.

Besides the very loud fan noise, my only issue has been with using the digital vs. component inputs. I have the HD cable box connected via HDMI (with the M1 adapter), and my SD DVD player and Apple TV connected through an HT receiver, over component. If I switch to the component input for 480i movie viewing from the DVD player, and when finished, switch back to the digital input for cable, I get no signal. I can never re-sync. I need to do a hard power-off of the PJ and then back on, and I have the signal back.

I'm guessing this has something to do with the 480i, but when I set the DVD player to 480p output, I still get the failure to re-sync problem. Strangely, the Apple TV, also set to 480p over component, always allows me to switch back to the cable/digital input without any loss of signal.

If any old owners know the solution, I'd appreciate it, because I intend on keeping the PJ up and running until the 3D projector future becomes more clear. I hate diminishing the 4805's lamp life by doing the hard power-off/on to get the cable signal back, but considering the trivial investment in the PJ, I guess I can live with it. Just hoping someone knew the answer to this quirk in an otherwise nice "older" PJ!

And BTW, I tried solving my problem by simply connecting the cable box over component too, but then I got black crush on the HD channels. I'm guessing that has something to do with the 4805's video ADC chip on HD content. When it needs to scale from something other than 480 resolution, it is apparently doing the black crush. This only occurs with the component input, not digital/DVI input, and I confirmed that it is not the cable box by connecting it over component to another TV in the house (no black crush there).

I tried solving my problem by simply connecting the cable box over component too, but then I got black crush on the HD channels. I'm guessing that has something to do with the 4805's video ADC chip on HD content. When it needs to scale from something other than 480 resolution, it is apparently doing the black crush.The component input on the 4805 has to be calibrated separately from the DVI input. Each input has its own settings memory.

Nothing to do with the 4805 internals.

Besides the very loud fan noise, my only issue has been with using the digital vs. component inputs. I have the HD cable box connected via HDMI (with the M1 adapter), and my SD DVD player and Apple TV connected through an HT receiver, over component. If I switch to the component input for 480i movie viewing from the DVD player, and when finished, switch back to the digital input for cable, I get no signal. I can never re-sync. I need to do a hard power-off of the PJ and then back on, and I have the signal back.This is a classic HDCP handshake problem. Cable boxes are notorious for not handling the handshake very well. You'll probably find power-cycling the cable box to be as effective as power-cycling the projector (and not so hard on the bulb).

is there any resale value for these? mine has about 600hrs on it but i am looking at moving up to 1080p or 3D.

This is a classic HDCP handshake problem. Cable boxes are notorious for not handling the handshake very well. You'll probably find power-cycling the cable box to be as effective as power-cycling the projector (and not so hard on the bulb).
I figured as much re:handshaking, dumb me didn't think about cycling the cable box as an alternative, I'll give that a try next time.

Cavu: I have the separate inputs calibrated separately, using the Bob Williams recs for the DVI input (with PC gamma) and (very) slight tweaks to factory defaults (with film gamma) for the component input. Excellent color and contrast is the result on both inputs, other than the component input black crush on HD material.

Can any of you guys recall ever getting a resolution of 1920X540 @59Hz after connecting your M1 to HDMI? I've tried searching and only come up with something pertaining to splitting the 1080 resolution. The image is actually better than I was getting before from component, but just wondering if this is even remotely normal for anybody here.

I have a SP4805 which the bulb had blown after almost 4000 hours.
I replaced it with a new bulb and the bulb will not always strike. It could come on after 1 strike or after 7 strikes.
I spoke to a tech at the company I bought the lamp from and he suggested it may be a ballast issue, but would exchange the lamp anyway.

I have browsed the boards and found similar problems, but no concrete answer.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

Is anyone here using a Yamaha HTR-6160 AVR with their Infocus SP4805 and a Bravo D1?

I cant believe this thread is till alive. I am trying to sell my sp4805 with around 600hrs. what is is a fair price?

is there any resale value for these? mine has about 600hrs on it but i am looking at moving up to 1080p or 3D.

Do not waste time on 3d yet...wait. Hear me now...believe me later. Buy a midline 1080p and be very happy. I have Eps 8100 but got it for less than 12 hundred. Even at it's current cost it's a fine machine. Best 1.5k you could probably spend right now. Consider by the time the lamp is up for replacement a newer better machine will be avail. Current formats will have to catch up with displays just as br did with current tv's/pj's.

I cant believe this thread is till alive. I am trying to sell my sp4805 with around 600hrs. what is is a fair price?

In good shape with those actual hours...probably 350-400 tops. It's a shame, I know. My 4805 looked wayyyyyyyyy better than several Sony 1080p's that I saw at hi-end boutiques. Clearly smoked them. However, once you see bluray or hidef tv on a newer hirez unit...you will not miss the 4805...fond memories...but no regrets for upgrading.

I have a SP4805 which the bulb had blown after almost 4000 hours.
I replaced it with a new bulb and the bulb will not always strike. It could come on after 1 strike or after 7 strikes.
I spoke to a tech at the company I bought the lamp from and he suggested it may be a ballast issue, but would exchange the lamp anyway.

I have browsed the boards and found similar problems, but no concrete answer.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

Are you buying Infocus part or some lamp that is compatible? Buy original or nothing...period. If you are buying original and having probs....find another seller.

My trusty old 4805 keeps cranking along on the original bulb after 4 years of use.

But, for the past few months the focus will 'glitch'. Simply touching the PJ will usually stabilize it. It is almost like it is vibration that when touched will stop. I have a homemade mount and the PJ is not super-stabilized...it just kinda hangs or floats loosely. Is this common or is it a symptom of another problem?

Also, I occasionally hear a loud whining, like a dremel tool on a piece of metal. This usually goes away after a few minutes.

I occasionally hear a loud whining, like a dremel tool on a piece of metal. This usually goes away after a few minutes.Color wheel bearings are going.

Search this thread for "whine".

I have a SP4805 which the bulb had blown after almost 4000 hours.
I replaced it with a new bulb and the bulb will not always strike. It could come on after 1 strike or after 7 strikes.
I spoke to a tech at the company I bought the lamp from and he suggested it may be a ballast issue, but would exchange the lamp anyway.

I have browsed the boards and found similar problems, but no concrete answer.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

I have a very old SP4805 as well Check out ************.com I use their relight service on my bulbs. I send in the housing and the relight them with all original components, never had a problem once with any of their bulbs.

Color wheel bearings are going.

Search this thread for "whine".

Thanks. Is the random fuzziness & instant lack of focus also related to the color wheel failing?

Is the random fuzziness & instant lack of focus also related to the color wheel failing?No.

No.

A man of very few words. I like that.

So does anyone have any ideas WHY my focus occasionally goes fuzzy. The fix is lightly touching the PJ. It is like something is loose or not stabilized properly.

A man of very few words. I like that.

So does anyone have any ideas WHY my focus occasionally goes fuzzy. The fix is lightly touching the PJ. It is like something is loose or not stabilized properly.FWIW, I've noticed that my SP4805 changes focus after it warms up. So, if I focus it when I first turn it on, after a while it'll drift out of focus. I've learned to focus it when it's hot, and live with a slightly out-of-focus picture for the first several minutes the next time I turn it on.

I'm new here. There's an ad right over top of the tools and search engine which I can't move, so I guess I'll just post here and hope for the best.

I've had a 4805 hanging upside down from my ceiling for six years, and it's never given me a bit trouble until last weekend.

I turned it on and on the splash screen were 6 or seven wide black interference lines. Between them would be a normal slice of screen then another black line, all the same width, so there were about 13 vertical bands. When the program info (a DVD) came in, it looked the same with the DVD showing in the normal stripes, like there were black fizzy bars in front of the picture. It made me think of how a monitor sometimes looks when the cable is loose.

Using the wonderful "Dust blob" disassembly guide, I took her apart. (Thanks! :-) I was hoping to find something obvious, a burnt component or a loose cable. No joy. It wouldn't run with the top and the bulb door off, so I couldn't really tap on things.

It's currently scattered all over my kitchen table. Please, if anyone has any ideas, please reply to this or write me.

I'm new here. There's an ad right over top of the tools and search engine which I can't move, so I guess I'll just post here and hope for the best.

I've had a 4805 hanging upside down from my ceiling for six years, and it's never given me a bit trouble until last weekend.

I turned it on and on the splash screen were 6 or seven wide black interference lines. Between them would be a normal slice of screen then another black line, all the same width, so there were about 13 vertical bands. When the program info (a DVD) came in, it looked the same with the DVD showing in the normal stripes, like there were black fizzy bars in front of the picture. It made me think of how a monitor sometimes looks when the cable is loose.

Using the wonderful "Dust blob" disassembly guide, I took her apart. (Thanks! :-) I was hoping to find something obvious, a burnt component or a loose cable. No joy. It wouldn't run with the top and the bulb door off, so I couldn't really tap on things.

It's currently scattered all over my kitchen table. Please, if anyone has any ideas, please reply to this or write me.Personally, I think this sounds like part of the the DLP electronics have conked out. If that's the case, you'll have to send it in for repairs, which is going to be pretty pricey considering that this projector is way out of warranty. Or, take this as a sign that it's time to upgrade to a new HD projector.

I'm itching for a new, HD projector myself. Frankly, I wish my 4805 would up and quit on me. Instead, what it appears to be doing is dying a slow death... One side of the screen is starting to show signs of light tunnel collapse, and I've also noticed that the colors are starting to look all washed out (dirty or faded color wheel?).

I'm itching for a new, HD projector myself. Frankly, I wish my 4805 would up and quit on me. Instead, what it appears to be doing is dying a slow death... One side of the screen is starting to show signs of light tunnel collapse, and I've also noticed that the colors are starting to look all washed out (dirty or faded color wheel?).

Haha its always the ones you want to die that wont, and the good ones you want to keep around never do.

I figured out how to run it with the top off.

I found out that the big fan that cools the lamp assembly was messed up. It would try to start, then whine like a hurt animal. I wondered if it could be making interference that could mess up the display.

I spent the next hour trying to get to the fan cable. It was on the very bottom of the case. Finally got it unplugged and put the boards back in. When I fired her up, the fan was off, but the interference bands were still there. *sigh* I've got her all buttoned up again.

I guess I'll have to go get a new HD projector... I'm thinking the HD20. Looks like I can get one for about $850.

Anyone want to make an offer on a 4805 for parts? The bulb's still got time on it. It's got a working color wheel, light tunnel, case, lens, remote. Shoot! That's a couple hundred $ worth of parts! :-)

Anyone want to make an offer on a 4805 for parts? The bulb's still got time on it. It's got a working color wheel, light tunnel, case, lens, remote. Shoot! That's a couple hundred $ worth of parts! :-)If you don't get any interest here, don't chuck it. List it on eBay. I'm sure you can get something for it.

I found out that the big fan that cools the lamp assembly was messed up. It would try to start, then whine like a hurt animal. I wondered if it could be making interference that could mess up the display.

Anyone want to make an offer on a 4805 for parts? The bulb's still got time on it. It's got a working color wheel, light tunnel, case, lens, remote. Shoot! That's a couple hundred $ worth of parts! :-)

I had the same issue a few months ago. This particular problem was discussed several hundred posts ago. The workaround was to power the big fan through an external power supply. After 5 good years of use, I decided to upgrade to the Mits HC3800 and love it so far.

My 4805 only had about 900 hours on it and I was able to sell the bulb locally but I have the rest of the projector to sell as well. I put it on Craigslist for a $100+shipping but haven't been motivated to put it on eBay yet.

How about linking the FAQ in the first thread? :)

http://www.my-hosts.info/img/68/1x1.jpgTHATS A GREAT IDEA

I'm ordering the Vivitek H1080FD when I get home today. It sounds like the best deal. With Bing money, I can get it for $792 right now at an "Authorized" dealer. (Optoma really freaked me out over the "Authorized" thing...) They've fixed the 24 FPS issue and apparently the rainbows have been lessened. Note the contrast is now listed as 4000:1. Originally, it was 5000:1.

Anyway, this will probably be my last post here. Catch me over at the Vivitek 1080 in a bit when I can say something of interest about it.

Thanks, everyone for reading and suggesting! :-)

So does anyone have any ideas WHY my focus occasionally goes fuzzy. The fix is lightly touching the PJ. It is like something is loose or not stabilized properly.

After about a month of banging, tapping, and jilting my 4805 back into focus, I finally discovered that it seemed to be a loose cable connection...argghh. I noticed by accident that the 4805 menus were crystal-clear, but the 360 signal was fuzzy.

After re-seating the component cable, it seems fine now. Hopefully I can get some more life out of it.

Any idea why Xbox-360 via HDMI keeps on "searching"? Swapping the cable to a DVD player works but not to Xbox. Unfortunately, I am trying to troubleshoot this remotely and my son is doing all the cable swaps and power on/off etc while I am on the phone giving him directions. The Xbox initially was connected to TV via HDMI; so I know it is set up to output on HDMI.

Thanks,
- Vikas

I have two infocus 4805's for sale if anyone is interested PM me. Both units need new lamps. Asking $100 each

Time to say farewell to my Infocus SP4805, which provided stellar service for 5 1/2 years. I've gone over to the dark side and bought a Panny plasma (get it? . . . dark side:D)

I ran my 4805 with a pixel-mapped V Inc Bravo D1 with the modded cap. I have an extra D1 in the box, which I ran for a few hours to make sure that it worked.

If you're not familiar with that setup (the BEST for the 4805), here's the thread:http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=660701&highlight=bravo

I have the cap that you can replace. If interested in taking the extra D1 off my hands, shoot me a PM. I'm not looking to make a profit, just wanna get rid of it at little or no loss to someone who will enjoy the setup as much as I have.

Time to say farewell to my Infocus SP4805, which provided stellar service for 5 1/2 years. I've gone over to the dark side and bought a Panny plasma (get it? . . . dark side:D)

I ran my 4805 with a pixel-mapped V Inc Bravo D1 with the modded cap. I have an extra D1 in the box, which I ran for a few hours to make sure that it worked.

If you're not familiar with that setup (the BEST for the 4805), here's the thread:http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=660701&highlight=bravo

I have the cap that you can replace. If interested in taking the extra D1 off my hands, shoot me a PM. I'm not looking to make a profit, just wanna get rid of it at little or no loss to someone who will enjoy the setup as much as I have.

ok, ive been reading,..what makes this bravo d1 dvd player better than my htpc running 1:1 pixel mapping with windows 7 ultimate media centre..to my trusty sp4805? ........i dont even have to burn the movies / tv to disc.... just find movie on hard drive press play on media centre remote and away i go...so im interested in what makes this better?

Read through some pages in the thread, didn't see my problem but after I post I'm gonna continue to search.

Anyway, I turned on my 4805 the other day and noticed a "dark" discolored area on the right side of my screen. It wasn't too bad, and was very tiny. The projector is about 5 years old so I expect some stuff like this. Then the following day it was way worse. Like a quarter of the screen is dark and fuzzy almost.

I took out the lamp housing, did a quick inspection. I noticed the color wheel had some marks or grooves on it but I don't think that would be it. Is there anything I can check? I was reading in the thread about "filters"? I never changed mine, nor do I even know where they are.

The bulb is relatively new, under a hundred hours on it I think. BUT I did buy the bulb from some knock off place, can't remember name but I'll look it up hopefully. Could it be the bulb? Any help or recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks Guys.

If no one posts here I'll move this to it's own thread.

Aw crap...looks like I have this light tunnel ******** going on. Damn Damn Damn. Broke as hell right now and can't replace my projector. This is just what I need. Thanks anyway guys.

Aw crap...looks like I have this light tunnel ******** going on. Damn Damn Damn. Broke as hell right now and can't replace my projector. This is just what I need. Thanks anyway guys.

Well, good news then... You don't need to replace the pj... All that's happened is the glue holding the 4 mirrors together has come apart... All you need to do is reglue the mirrors with super glue or something Like it ... Only takes a couple hours and you're back in business .... There's a tutorial on her somewhere on all the steps to do it.. Pm me if you cAnt find it... My 4805 has been fine for 2 years now after I fixed my
Light tunnel

Cheers

Paul

Well, good news then... You don't need to replace the pj... All that's happened is the glue holding the 4 mirrors together has come apart... All you need to do is reglue the mirrors with super glue or something Like it ... Only takes a couple hours and you're back in business .... There's a tutorial on her somewhere on all the steps to do it.. Pm me if you cAnt find it... My 4805 has been fine for 2 years now after I fixed my
Light tunnel

Cheers

Paul

Yeah I saw the tutorial...not sure if I'm up for it. That's kinda reassuring that yours at least has been good for 2 years. I might give it a shot then. You wouldn't happen to be in the SouthWest Michigan area would ya? Prolly not. Owell, I might have to man up and see if I can fix it.

Would somebody send me that tutorial?

Here is is the first part is for the x-1 skrool down and you will see it done for the 4805 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10792432#post10792432

I tried it but I used to much glue and got some on the inside of the light tunnel.

please help me decide!

My 4805 was slowly showing signs of light tunnel disease - but tonight the color wheel threw off a big hunk - it's all done. Toast.

Anyone got a used 4805 with a dead bulb for sale on the cheap?
I have a nearly new bulb to use up yet.
-W

My 4805 was slowly showing signs of light tunnel disease - but tonight the color wheel threw off a big hunk - it's all done. Toast.

Anyone got a used 4805 with a dead bulb for sale on the cheap?
I have a nearly new bulb to use up yet.
-W

i've got just that. had a few inches of light tunnel issue, so i replaced the failling tunnel with a good one, and about 2 hours later the bulb blew. $100 + shipping?

I like it. Sure. Paypal?

Can you call me at 864-287-2638 to set this up?

Do you have the factory shipping box?

-Wayne

sold mine for 250$ with hdmi adapter. 700ish hours.

immediately ordered a refurbed home cinema 1080UB for 874$ shipped from epson

sold mine for 250$ with hdmi adapter. 700ish hours.

immediately ordered a refurbed home cinema 1080UB for 874$ shipped from epson

I still got mine, about 1150 hrs on original bulb. It's been a great pj. I keep thinking of selling it but I always fear about selling pj and the bulb dies on the new owner instantly or gets damaged via shipping....just the way my luck works. I just do not know what to upgrade too. I want 1080p, and it has to shoot 110" from 17'

Hey guys, I have a 4805, bought a new bulb for a pretty penny, and the little square piece of glass cracked on the bulb housing after 100 hours, it almost looks like it cracked from too much heat..., the bulb will not fire up because of it (i think thats why)

does anybody have a non working bulb that I can possibly just get the glass piece from? It would be huge favor, thanks guys

I have enjoyed the 4805 for 5-6 years now and it just bit the dust. It had the color wheel whine for a few months and the bulb went out last week. I wanted to upgrade anyway but now that it finally went out I was a little sad. It was a great projector for me, anyway wanted to know what you guys would recommend upgrading to? I was thinking of trying the LCD projectors maybe the new Epson 8350 any thoughts?

I was very happy with my 4805 until it died as well. After, I went through a bunch of projectors and was not happy until I purchased a JVC RS-1x. This is another projector that I will keep until it dies. Before getting the JVC I tried the Samsung H700AE, Sony VPL-40 and the Sony VPL-60. They were all decent, but I didn't find the images as satisfying as the 4805 (relatively speaking). Once I viewed the RS-1x, I had the same satisfied feeling that I had upon firing up the 4805 for the first time.

Adam, just curious why you didn't go with another InFocus? That JVC is pretty pricey.

I had switched rooms and I needed more placement flexibility. I got the JVC for a good price; JVC was blowing out the rest of their A stock to make room for later models. I would still consider another Infocus in the future, but they would have to make some gains in black levels to get me to buy.

It sounds like a nursing home in here. My 4805 is over 5 years old. I had the light tube replaced and a color wheel replaced under extended warranty. I get the buzz saw sound for the first 2-3 minutes then all is reasonably quiet. I have over 3300 hours on the bulb and the darn thing wont die. I reset the counter at 3000 hours when the reminder popped up figuring we would be replacing it soon.
I'm currently campaigning for a new JVC DLA-HD 250 but my wife is having sticker shock. Now I'm concerned that if the bulb blows she will think it's sabbatoge... Anyway it's been a great projector but I'm ready for 1080p, placement flexibility, a quieter fan, better blacks, etc.

It sounds like a nursing home in here. My 4805 is over 5 years old. I had the light tube replaced and a color wheel replaced under extended warranty. I get the buzz saw sound for the first 2-3 minutes then all is reasonably quiet. I have over 3300 hours on the bulb and the darn thing wont die. I reset the counter at 3000 hours when the reminder popped up figuring we would be replacing it soon.
I'm currently campaigning for a new JVC DLA-HD 250 but my wife is having sticker shock. Now I'm concerned that if the bulb blows she will think it's sabbatoge... Anyway it's been a great projector but I'm ready for 1080p, placement flexibility, a quieter fan, better blacks, etc.

Mine just died and I'm thinking of upgrading to 1080p anyone thinking of changing over to LCD like maybe the new Epson 8350 that just came out. I'm thinking of trying one but I don't want to get LCD and regret it. any thoughts?

Mine just died and I'm thinking of upgrading to 1080p anyone thinking of changing over to LCD like maybe the new Epson 8350 that just came out. I'm thinking of trying one but I don't want to get LCD and regret it. any thoughts?

I'm seriously thinking about getting on the LCOS (D-ILA) bandwagon. I think that it will produce a picture that I'll be really happy with.

I posted a seperate thread in the "Digital PJ under $3k" subheading, but I figured I would repost here as well.

Thanks to this site I have been able to keep my 4805 working and a joy to own. So it is only right I should give back a little. I apologize for no pics, but I never really expected this to work :)
If an Admin wants to move this post, feel free. I wasn't sure where it would get the most visability.

About a year ago I had the light tunnel fail. Thanks to this site I not only found out how rare a replacement is, but also how to repair it. However....
Over the last year my picture became gradually darker and the contrast was waaay off. The problem was that the mirror finish on the tunnel pieces had worn over time and also due to the repair. Add to that the glue had darkened as well. I had little desire to reopen my PJ until I had a decent solution. One came to me accidentally....which turned out wrong....which finally led me to the easiest and cheapest one of all.

After accidentally stepping on one of my wifes cosmetic cases, I realized the mirror was just the right thickness to use for new tunnel parts. I got my courage up and decided to go for it....make a new tunnel. So I bought a glass cutter and managed to cut 2 of the larger mirror pieces (top and bottom) and glued them to the old narrow sides. After hours of cutting (actually breaking then swearing) and glueing, I tried it. After almost 3 hours and 3 different sessions of opening up the unit and re-adjusting and glueing the parts (not to mention handling the very breakable color wheel!!), I could not get the dimensions right. Now I found myself stuck with a PJ that is unuseable. Just fantastic.

Pissed, I go to my shed to put a few tools away and a piece of aluminum flashing falls at my feet. For those unfamiliar with flashing, its thin sheet metal easily found in any home improvement store. They even sell flat sheets.
I picked up the metal to put it back and I remembered a post somewhere that someone used a similar idea. Only problem was that the metal itself was not reflective enough. Just then I had an idea. I figured what the hell, the worse that could happen is my idea fails like the last one.

So for the repair....

I take the flashing and tin snips and I easily cut 2 pieces, each one the length of the tunnel. The width of each is slightly larger than the size of the top (or bottom piece) and both sides. I then bend each piece with needlenose pliers so that they form a C-Channel, essentially forming 3/4 of the tunnel. I also chose to form one Channel so that it would be ever so slightly larger than the other, so that I could fit them together, one inside the other.

NOTE: It is important to note that the metal is thinner than the original mirrors, so the size of the inside of the tunnel (Height and Width) should be slightly larger than the original part.

Once fit together, they roughly form a 16:9 Tunnel. Cool.

Great, but that doesn't help the reflectivity issue. I need something heat proof and reflective. So I say..."How bout Aluminum Foil!"

I carefully cut foil larger then each channel and gently line each channel with the most reflective side out. I pressed it in flush and folded the excess out (like flaps), which I figured would hold it in place. Finally I place both Channels together and they fit snuggly with no glue required.

So here goes nothin'....

I open up the PJ one more time and insert the new tunnel. Put it all back together and fire it up. OMG!!! It was as perfect as I could have ever hoped! The picture was bright and clear. The contrast was very very good and the colors were sharp. Wow!
It was simple (relatively speaking), cheap and quicker than glueing. It will also not suffer the same fate as the mirrors.

It took me about an hour to fabricate the tunnel. Between disassembling and reassembling the PJ about 2 hours.

I hope someone finds this useful. I figured there are still a few of us with 4805's that could use a little help.

I may not check back on this post, so I attempted to be as clear and precise as possible considering this was done off the cuff to begin with. Best of luck to anyone who gives this a try!

Mine light tunnel is starting to go too. My lamp hours reset at one point, but I doubt I have 1300 hrs on it, no joke. I have an electronics background but instead of fixing it, well it was a great excuse for the upgrade I just ordered. I might take the time to fix the 4805 or just sell as is.

Hello All,

New to the thread. Just digged out my 5 year old 4805 (less than 200 hours on it.) and try to set up the basement entertainment room. I bought a HDMI to M1-DA cable, as well as a DVI to M1-DA cable with an HDMI to DVI adapter from monoprice. Tried connecting two different HDMI sources (a DVD and a XBOX) to the projector, and neither is able to produce an image with two different cables. The projector is fine and work with both S-video and component cables. Don't know if this is a common problem with this projector, and would like to hear your thoughts/experience on what I need to do.

Thanks very much.

Hello All,

New to the thread. Just digged out my 5 year old 4805 (less than 200 hours on it.) and try to set up the basement entertainment room. I bought a HDMI to M1-DA cable, as well as a DVI to M1-DA cable with an HDMI to DVI adapter from monoprice. Tried connecting two different HDMI sources (a DVD and a XBOX) to the projector, and neither is able to produce an image with two different cables. The projector is fine and work with both S-video and component cables. Don't know if this is a common problem with this projector, and would like to hear your thoughts/experience on what I need to do.FWIW, I successfully sourced my SP4805 for years with this setup:

(Sat. Receiver/BD Player) HDMI Out -> Pioneer Receiver w/ HDMI switcher -> HDMI/DVI adapter -> 30ft DVI cable > DVI/M1DA adapter -> SP4805 M1DA input.

Just bought a new Optoma HD20, and I am trying to decide if I should keep my SP4805. I haven't had a projector set up in about 2 years, but I just unpacked my SP4805 and it still works/looks good. There are 1500 hours on the original bulb and the thing still looks damn good. Would anyone be interested in it, and if so what's a fair price?

just bought a new optoma hd20, and i am trying to decide if i should keep my sp4805. I haven't had a projector set up in about 2 years, but i just unpacked my sp4805 and it still works/looks good. There are 1500 hours on the original bulb and the thing still looks damn good. Would anyone be interested in it, and if so what's a fair price?

$100?

Not interested, but that seems fair to me, considering the projector's age and lamp hours used.

Hey guys, listed my infocus 4805 on ebay if any of ya'll interested. The bulb only has 87 hours on it. No reserve on the auction. Whatever it sells for it. Thanks for looking.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330519793174#ht_500wt_1156

Hey guys, listed my infocus 4805 on ebay if any of ya'll interested. The bulb only has 87 hours on it. No reserve on the auction. Whatever it sells for it. Thanks for looking.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330519793174#ht_500wt_1156

The listing shows the 4805 with a native res of 1024x768, the actual native res is 854x480. Just FYI I guess.

The listing shows the 4805 with a native res of 1024x768, the actual native res is 854x480. Just FYI I guess.

Thanks. It was the default that loaded from Ebay. I'll leave it I guess....

Got my sp4805 out to set up my theater downstairs. I used it a couple of days and yesterday it got heavy use. My kids were using it for a few hours and later in the day after it was shut off, I turned it back on to watch a movie. I immediately noticed an artifact across the screen. I've attached an image that shows where it occurred on the screen. I first noticed it on the right and it seemed to progressively get worse. By the end of the movie I saw it all the way across. Unfortunately I didn't take pictures. The line mostly yellow with some red and green and was about the same proportions as in the image.

There is some question as to whether one of the kids bumped the projector. Still trying to sort that out. This morning I fired it back up and the artifact was gone. Let it run a few minutes and shut it back off.

Anyone seen anything like this? Everything I have read about light tunnel issues involve a vertical band in on one side so I'm thinking that might not be it.

Hey guys, listed my infocus 4805 on ebay if any of ya'll interested. The bulb only has 87 hours on it. No reserve on the auction. Whatever it sells for it. Thanks for looking.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330519793174#ht_500wt_1156

Bumping the topic....yeah, the TOPIC...

Thanks. It was the default that loaded from Ebay. I'll leave it I guess....

Bumping the topic....yeah, the TOPIC...So why haven't you corrected your listing to indicate that the projector is not 1,024x768 but 854x480 !?!?!?!?!

It doesn't take a rocket scientist to edit your description to indicate the correct specs.

Pretty lame to leave the misleading information in place when you are fully aware that you are misrepresenting the product being sold!! Fraud by default.

Shame on you.

So why haven't you corrected your listing to indicate that the projector is not 1,024x768 but 854x480 !?!?!?!?!

It doesn't take a rocket scientist to edit your description to indicate the correct specs.

Pretty lame to leave the misleading information in place when you are fully aware that you are misrepresenting the product being sold!! Fraud by default.

Shame on you.

You can't edit ebay's default listing. I submitted a correction.

Plus I doubt people are searching by resolution, nor do I think they have that option. The only people who are looking at a BROKEN 4805 are OTHER 4805 OWNERS. So I'm sure the person who bought it will understand.

Shame on you for being a dumb dumb though.

You can't edit ebay's default listing. I submitted a correction.

Plus I doubt people are searching by resolution, nor do I think they have that option. The only people who are looking at a BROKEN 4805 are OTHER 4805 OWNERS. So I'm sure the person who bought it will understand.

Shame on you for being a dumb dumb though.

According to eBay, the seller is responsible for ALL information in the listing, including the generic product description from the eBay catalog. Technically, any buyer could return the item to you for being "not as described," and they would be fully entitled to a full refund under the current rules. Although it's doubtful that event will happen, one should be aware that it could.

While I'm certain that cavu can fight his own battles, I must state that you calling him "dumb" is THE most ludicrous and assinine thing I've ever heard on all of AVS. He's posted more useful information here (and on the Bravo D1 thread) than any other member by far. Plus, since we're handing out "shame," I'll give you the bag-on-the-head-worthy, double-dosage for bumping the thread for no other reason than to hawk your eBay wares. You stated you had one for those that were interested, fine. Bumping toward the end of the listing was painfully pathetic and unnecessarily irritating.

Congrats on your $96 sale.

What is going on when both fans run , but there is no lamp illumination and no start-up beep? Bought NEW lamp...still no beep or picture!

Does anyone remember a repair action for this problem??
Thank you.

Got my sp4805 out to set up my theater downstairs. I used it a couple of days and yesterday it got heavy use. My kids were using it for a few hours and later in the day after it was shut off, I turned it back on to watch a movie. I immediately noticed an artifact across the screen. I've attached an image that shows where it occurred on the screen. I first noticed it on the right and it seemed to progressively get worse. By the end of the movie I saw it all the way across. Unfortunately I didn't take pictures. The line mostly yellow with some red and green and was about the same proportions as in the image.

There is some question as to whether one of the kids bumped the projector. Still trying to sort that out. This morning I fired it back up and the artifact was gone. Let it run a few minutes and shut it back off.

Anyone seen anything like this? Everything I have read about light tunnel issues involve a vertical band in on one side so I'm thinking that might not be it.

Well this has completely gone away now and there doesn't seem to be a problem. Still, I'm curious as to what happened.

My sp4805 is hooked up through an HDMI cable with an M1 to HMDI adapter (from monoprice) to an NVIDIA 9800GT which is HDCP compliant. However the NVIDIA driver is showing there is an HDCP problem. When I output to my monitor there's no problem. Any ideas? Is the adapter the problem? I assumed using the adapter would be the same as an HDMI to M1 cable.

According to eBay, the seller is responsible for ALL information in the listing, including the generic product description from the eBay catalog. Technically, any buyer could return the item to you for being "not as described," and they would be fully entitled to a full refund under the current rules. Although it's doubtful that event will happen, one should be aware that it could.

While I'm certain that cavu can fight his own battles, I must state that you calling him "dumb" is THE most ludicrous and assinine thing I've ever heard on all of AVS. He's posted more useful information here (and on the Bravo D1 thread) than any other member by far. Plus, since we're handing out "shame," I'll give you the bag-on-the-head-worthy, double-dosage for bumping the thread for no other reason than to hawk your eBay wares. You stated you had one for those that were interested, fine. Bumping toward the end of the listing was painfully pathetic and unnecessarily irritating.

Congrats on your $96 sale.

I would have gladly given a refund if the person asked. I did everything in my power to edit the description. And for yer boyfriend to insult me about it is the most ludicrous and asinine (ps if yer gonna try to be a big boy and use big boy words try spelling it correctly, kthx) thing I've ever heard of on all of avs.

I was bumping it because people in this topic have broken 4805's. So yeah, one would think the people here would like to know about it. I could see how helping people could be irritating to someone like you. My bad.

For something I was going to throw away, I'll take the $96. But thanks for showing so much interest in me. I feel so special.

I did everything in my power to edit the description.BS.

You could have written in the editable text of your ad:

"The eBay provided specifications printed above are erroneous. This projector is 854x480 resolution, not 1024x768. Sorry for the confusion."

:rolleyes:

I would have gladly given a refund if the person asked. I did everything in my power to edit the description. And for yer boyfriend to insult me about it is the most ludicrous and asinine (ps if yer gonna try to be a big boy and use big boy words try spelling it correctly, kthx) thing I've ever heard of on all of avs.

I was bumping it because people in this topic have broken 4805's. So yeah, one would think the people here would like to know about it. I could see how helping people could be irritating to someone like you. My bad.

For something I was going to throw away, I'll take the $96. But thanks for showing so much interest in me. I feel so special.

Yeah, a typographical error certainly trumps blatant fraud. :rolleyes:

Maybe you can bump this thread when you sell the remaining 10% of your soul as well. :D

Can somebody tell me which adapter to by (and where from) so that I can use my existing M1DA cable in the ceiling when I upgrade my 4805 to any projector with HDMI input?

Thanks,
- Vikas

Can somebody tell me which adapter to by (and where from) so that I can use my existing M1DA cable in the ceiling when I upgrade my 4805 to any projector with HDMI input?See MONOPRICE (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041906&p_id=2690&seq=1&format=2). $4.75

http://images2.monoprice.com/productlargeimages/26901.jpg

Still having HDCP issues. Got a Xbox recently and went to watch Netflix and received a HDCP error. I'm using the M1 to HDMI adapter from monoprice with an HDCP compliant 9800GT and, of course, an sp4805.

Wow! Can't believe I'm posting in this thread for the first time in years...

Anyway, I'm wondering if anyone ever had any success putting a non-spec lamp into the 4805 lamp housing. If so, what did you go with? I know this has been asked many times, but any other ideas for cheap bulbs?

My bulb blew yesterday (and when they blow, man they blow!), and I'm looking to see if there's a cheap way to replace it. The 4805 is my back up projector that spends most of its time in a box, but I'd still like to have it available for outdoor showings if I can do it without spending much. (The Epson 8100 handles most of the workload these days.)

My color wheel just exploded. I've got two fresh bulbs and do not want to throw another 100+ at this thing. What would you guys do?

Sell your bulbs to Jack?

You can still gets bulbs for this PJ? I upgraded a while ago but can't bring myself to dispose of the 4805, thinking my son might get some use out of it or to have two games on at once.