I believe the XB360 can upsample to 720p or 1080i, with 4X antialiasing.

The Xbox 360 has a native resolution of 720P, but it can scale up to 1080i or down to 480P for your display device. This is for gaming only.

It will only output 480P for regular DVD viewing and is not considered a good player for movie DVD's. Games on the other hand look amazing.

It is also very loud. Much louder than the 4805. It is easier to overlook the fan noise when gaming, but IMO, it is not a good choice for DVD viewing.

Xbox + XBMC = Upscaled goodness

Thank you that's exactly what I needed to know. Too bad the XB360 has a fan at all, I guess a liquid-cooled HTPC with Powerstrip is the only way to even try what I'm thinking of.

Looks like my Yamaha 5750 will be sticking around for a while; great picture and audio, which I'm sure future reviews will confirm.

Again, thank you. :)

Mark

The Xbox 360 has a native resolution of 720P, but it can scale up to 1080i or down to 480P for your display device. This is for gaming only.

It will only output 480P for regular DVD viewing and is not considered a good player for movie DVD's. Games on the other hand look amazing.

It is also very loud. Much louder than the 4805. It is easier to overlook the fan noise when gaming, but IMO, it is not a good choice for DVD viewing.

Samsung hires video consultants who make sure it has all the controls to be perfectly dialed back in - but like every other TV it has to look "realer" than real on the showroom floor - if anyone put a calibrated TV on the floor nobody would buy it.

Krasmuzik,

thanks a lot for all the explanations..

Do our neighborhood multiplex pictures match ISF calibrated PJs? Or are they also altered to make them "realer". I haven't been to many movies after I got a good home theater setup. Of course, the A/V experience in a theater has always been outstanding as far as I remember. I'm sure all the unwashed and untrained people who end up falling for the super vivid look on their TVs feel the same way about their movie experience.. Is there some inconsistency here??

From what I understand most multiplex theater movies are underlit - perhaps just to save a buck on bulbs and electricity, but who knows. Frequently you cannot even count on a multiplex to check the focus, much less calibrate anything else - the only exceptions being a few conscientious smaller chains, the major NYC (and other big-city multiplexes), and of course IMAX presentations. You can however count on them to turn the volume up until the subwoofers distort. Besides usually someone has tossed a super-sized coke or whatever onto the screen creating a nice shiny splash-shaped reflection... worse than any dust blob. Oh how I love to go to the movies LOL.

A couple of years ago I saw Alien - the remastered verison - digitally projected in a theater in Florida. My wife and I were the only two people in the auditorium... pure heaven, once in a lifetime experience.

Mark


Krasmuzik,

thanks a lot for all the explanations..

Do our neighborhood multiplex pictures match ISF calibrated PJs? Or are they also altered to make them "realer". I haven't been to many movies after I got a good home theater setup. Of course, the A/V experience in a theater has always been outstanding as far as I remember. I'm sure all the unwashed and untrained people who end up falling for the super vivid look on their TVs feel the same way about their movie experience.. Is there some inconsistency here??

New component cables have been in for a couple days now. Definite improvement . Had to adjust brightness and contrast compared to S video.

Is there as much improvement in upgrading to DVI as from S to component? If I could get the same gain in clarity and sharpness that going to component gained, by going to DVI, I'd be super happy. Pixel mapped D1 or D2?

I watched a $3000 Dreamvision Matterhorn for a while the other day. The 4805 looks better in most ways.

Also watched Alien dvd (recent THX version) last night. Looked really good.

A couple of years ago I saw Alien - the remastered verison - digitally projected in a theater in Florida. My wife and I were the only two people in the auditorium... pure heaven, once in a lifetime experience.

Mark

I went to see Ep III "A Steaming Pile Of Sith" in DLP - specificly in order to be able to get a few mental snapshots of the ways the big boys calibrated DLP.

Problem is...... as soon as the opening crawl started, I got sucked right into the movie somewhere between the words "WAR!" and "there are heroes on both sides" , and I'm afraid I never again thought of screen calibration until the closing credits were rolling. :)

-W

Is there as much improvement in upgrading to DVI as from S to component? If I could get the same gain in clarity and sharpness that going to component gained, by going to DVI, I'd be super happy. Pixel mapped D1 or D2?Absolutely!

The D1 or D2 will provide the HTPC 1:1 pixel map experience without the HTPC!! ;)

There's another D1 on eBay right now ... shhhh!!

Yeah, i was looking at the ebay Bravo's. I told myself no buying any AV stuff for a while, but a nice little side job may have popped up. I've heard the Oppo's are nice too. Decisions decisions,
hopefully.

I've heard the Oppo's are nice too.Oppos may be ok but don't pixel-map! Don't forget the SnaZio either.

great stuff.. thanks so much...will chk it out

Hi,

I finally watched my first full movie (for some reason we wanted to watch The Mummy Returns!) with the 4805, and it was great!!

I got my component video cables today and it was much better than s-video.

Here are some questions:

1. Do you put the lens cap back on when the 4805 is not in use? I do notice that when I put it back on it changes the focus a little bit.

2. Do you use the manual switch to turn the projector off after it goes through its powering down stage?

3. Is your screen image completely accurate? I'm thinking it's probably because of my $7 mount that I put together, but my image is maybe a couple of mm's higher on the right side. If most setups are like that, then I will just leave it. If not I can definitely fix it, but I'm just wondering if it is necessary. Would a better mount (for example the infocus ceiling mount) give a more dead on picture?

The lens of the projector is about 11.5 feet away from the wall, and with that I get about a 90" viewing area with the zoom maximized (or minimized?) Is that about right? And is it better to have it with the smallest screen at that distance? is it better clarity or better for the projector, etc?

I think that's it for now. For everyone that recommended this projector to me, a BIG THANK YOU!

Now I'll play around with it for a few more days, and hopefully if all goes well, fill out the rebate form and buy the year warranty for the lamp.

Let me know of any other suggestions,
Thanks so much!

Do you put the lens cap back on when the 4805 is not in use?No.

Do you use the manual switch to turn the projector off after it goes through its powering down stage?No.

Would a better mount give a more dead on picture?No. Squaring the projector to the screen (http://www.infocus.com/service/howto/guides/install/keystone_How_To.pdf) is the only way.

And is it better to have it with the smallest screen at that distance? is it better clarity or better for the projector, etc?Doesn't matter.

The only thing separating me from pixel mapped glory is 15 feet of cheap DVI to M1 cable which is currently lounging in some postal bin between here and CA. If only I could somehow bridge that 15 foot gap now and see... if only for a moment...

I have Theater Tek set-up -- a very elegant program with great flexibility -- DVDs look wonderful on my PC monitor. The nvidia 6800 card seems capable of anything at this point (I cranked a few 3D game demos up to maximum quality and she did not stutter). I also have the new X-Mystique 7.1 DD Live Sound Card installed as of yesterday and it's working brilliantly -- the Far Cry demo sounds very intense through my 5.1 HT surround system and it's nice to have to use only 1 cable to hook up DD 5.1 audio. MP3s sound pretty good through the same system (converted into DD 5.1) but it's true strength is in how it converts PC game surround into DD 5.1.. There's also a fraction of a microsecond delay before sound kicks in when launching your first MP3 (as the stereo to digital stream to DD conversion fires up) which is a bit annoying -- but it's a non-factor in games.

Okay, now the newbie-ish question (an answer will save me precious futzing around time when the cable arrives). I see two places to change resolution settings on my new set-up: 1) in Theater Tek which allows you to specify custom ARs and 2) in the nVidia controls which, after I overwrote the OEM nVidia driver with the real deal, now show 848 x 480 (you can imagine the moment of panic when this was not listed as a supported res on the OEM driver). I imagine I only need to change the resolution setting in the nVidia controls and keep TT set at 16:9 -- correct? Then it's just a question of setting the 4805 to native and crossing my fingers. Right?

Thanks,

Dan

4805 & OPPO connected with M1 to DVI cable.

OPPO owners what are the best settings in the video setup page of the OPPO????

Yes on everything but the TT ratio. Double check, by going into aspect ratio editor, that it is showing 848x480. If so, your good to go. If not, unlock the aspect ratio and try and set it. (you can then save it under 16:9 or Dans Super Ratio or anything you like. If not, check some earlier posts by Geno on a fix. Will require going into a Dat file in the Theater Tec Folder.

My 4805 has a strange problem:

If I use the component input for any lenght over 10 min or so when I switch back to computer input the screen is blank. Ive turned off all source components and the 4805 goes into "searching" looking for an input, I can turn on the computer input and it finds it immediately but there is no picture. The only cure for this seems to be switching off the 4805 via the main power switch then re starting it.

I have tried disconnecting the DVI from the Comcast box and reconnecting it and the picture comes in momentarily but then it goes away...again I have to completely switch the unit off then back on again and then its seems fine.

I know I have not explained it very well but has anyone experienced anything like this ?

Do you have a new pj or referb? I do not think the bulbs on the referbs are new so that could be it, but to answer the question, it does not darken the picture.Refurb...Thanks will give it a few weeks. :)

Yes on everything but the TT ratio. Double check, by going into aspect ratio editor, that it is showing 848x480. If so, your good to go. If not, unlock the aspect ratio and try and set it. (you can then save it under 16:9 or Dans Super Ratio or anything you like. If not, check some earlier posts by Geno on a fix. Will require going into a Dat file in the Theater Tec Folder.
Brian I Am -- I was hoping you would be around this morning to answer this. "Dans Super Ratio" has a nice ring to it - I'll go with that :) .

Thanks,

Dan

I am planning on getting the 4805 soon.

I live in an apt and the projector will be in my living room.

It will be mounted on shelf a foot or 2 behind my sectional.

Planning on mounting a screen (manual pulldown) to the top of of wall unit which will be about 14-15' away (which is about 9' in height) 9 ft or so across..

Thinking of 92" screen. Will only use for DVD and HDTV viewing and mainly @ night when fairly dark.

Not sure what type of screen to get.

Been looking at the infocuse 92" for $111 on their site, or some dalite model Pulldowns.

Do I want white? Gray? Glass bead? Not sure what to get.

Budget for screen only around $150 or so, so looking for best in that range.

I know I should only be getting one with a gain of 1.0 or so, but that's all I know.

Any help for PJ noob would be greatly appreciated!

I have a question about pixel mapping:

When I'm viewing my desktop, I have the res set to 848x480.
The 4805 reports this as "848x480@60HZ"

When I launch Call of Duty 2 on the PC, I set the res to 848x480 as well.
The 4805 reports this as "480p".

I guess the real question is, what does the 4805 have to report for it to be "pixel mapped". Is just the fact that it reports "848x480" enough to say that it is "pixel mapped", or does it have to say "480p" to be pixel mapped ?

My setup is as follows just for reference:

PC with ATI Radeon 9800 Pro
Powerstrip to set resolution
Using DVI out to 4805 over DVI-D -> M1 Cable from Monoprice
4805 set to native mode

Is just the fact that it reports "848x480" enough to say that it is "pixel mapped"Yes.

I am planning on getting the 4805 soon.

I live in an apt and the projector will be in my living room.

It will be mounted on shelf a foot or 2 behind my sectional.

Planning on mounting a screen (manual pulldown) to the top of of wall unit which will be about 14-15' away (which is about 9' in height) 9 ft or so across..

Thinking of 92" screen. Will only use for DVD and HDTV viewing and mainly @ night when fairly dark.

Not sure what type of screen to get.

Been looking at the infocuse 92" for $111 on their site, or some dalite model Pulldowns.

Do I want white? Gray? Glass bead? Not sure what to get.

Budget for screen only around $150 or so, so looking for best in that range.

I know I should only be getting one with a gain of 1.0 or so, but that's all I know.

Any help for PJ noob would be greatly appreciated!

A Gray screen would help reject ambient light along with helping with deeper blacks. What color walls and ceilings do you have? I'd recommend getting some large screen samples from Da-Lite. I use the Da-Lite High Contrast Matte White and also hear good things about the Optoma GrayWolf.

Thanks cavu. Just weird that it reports the same resolution differently, got an explanation for that ? Both cases the PC is sending out 848x480...

A Gray screen would help reject ambient light along with helping with deeper blacks. What color walls and ceilings do you have? I'd recommend getting some large screen samples from Da-Lite. I use the Da-Lite High Contrast Matte White and also hear good things about the Optoma GrayWolf.

Walls and ceilings whitish in color (light colored anyway).

I will also look into the Optoma.

Damn, decisions, decisions.

Just weird that it reports the same resolution differently, got an explanation for that ? Both cases the PC is sending out 848x480...If the projector is reporting 480p, that's what it's getting. Something is changing at your source.

BretLuke82,

If the game is showing 480p then it's probably outputing 720x480. When I set 848x480 in X-Men Legends II, the 4805 shows that it is receiving 848x480.

Thanks again cavu, and thanks Ja Phule. I'll check it out.

On a side note, anyone hooked up a Dreamcast to the 4805 ? I hooked mine up last night with the VGA box through the M1 port, and it looked great !! The lowly old Dreamcast actually supports 480p for close to half of it's games, and I was blown away at how Soul Calibur looked at 100" !! F355 Challenge really felt like the old Arcade machine as well, and I thought I was at the tennis match in Tennis 2K2 ! My Dreamcast has never looked better !

When the bulb dies...

does it tend to just dim out and then one day not strike or does it tend to go up in smoke and glass? Someone told me that proj bulbs have a special housing to keep flying glass contained so it won't damage anything (or anyone) is this correct for the 4805? I am way early in my bulbs life but I just want to know for later.

Hello everyone,

I just want to quickly share my 4805 experiences with everyone. After putting 150 hours on the unit using the component input only I finally broke down and purchased a 33ft HDMI to DVI cable from monoprice.com along with a M1/DVI adapter for the 4805 and a DVI/HDMI adapter for my Momitsu V880. I hooked it up last night and went into the custom resolutions menu in the V880 and got it to send an 856*480 DVI signal to the 4805. I then changed the color gains to 58 and the offsets to 28.5 as advised by Ja Phule in the Unofficial 4805 FAQ. Set the 4805 to native...

All I can say is WOW! The picture is ultra sharp, nicely saturated colors and excellent black levels. If you are on the fence as to component vs. DVI just do it. This was a nice upgrade I should have done from day one.

Just FYI I am using the free Infocus 76 inch pulldown screen that came with the 4805. It is a little on the small side but my seating distance is only 11 feet. And this is in a gameroom that is not completly light controlled most of the time.

So I've had my new 4805 for about a week. First impressions are great. I had the use of my friend's $5000+ projector in my bedroom for the last year, which looked spectacular, and despite being used to this quality I'm am very happy with the 4805.

Here's my situation: I have the InFocus 76" screen, though at the moment I'm just projecting onto a white wall. The room is about 13' by 20', with two white walls, one huge window, and a wall of cabinets. Viewing distance is 12'. The painted wall seems to be reflecting light throughout the room, so much so that the room is quite lit up just by pj light. The image seems a bit flat as well.

I'm thinking of using the screen, should this be less reflective than the wall? Regardless I'm thinking of buying a good amount of black felt to make a border around the wall or screen, or just blacking out the whole wall around the area. Is this a good idea? I just want a more dimensional picture and a darker room to view in. All of the above posts, of which I've read most, have been really helpful, you all are a good lot. Thanks!

I was just wondering what people out here have there Oppo settings at for the following...

Sharpness
Brightness
Contrast
Saturation
CCS
Truelife
Noise Reduction

I have done a search but between both of the 4805 threads it would take me a day to find anything...

Thanks much.

So I've had my new 4805 for about a week. First impressions are great. I had the use of my friend's $5000+ projector in my bedroom for the last year, which looked spectacular, and despite being used to this quality I'm am very happy with the 4805.

Here's my situation: I have the InFocus 76" screen, though at the moment I'm just projecting onto a white wall. The room is about 13' by 20', with two white walls, one huge window, and a wall of cabinets. Viewing distance is 12'. The painted wall seems to be reflecting light throughout the room, so much so that the room is quite lit up just by pj light. The image seems a bit flat as well.

I'm thinking of using the screen, should this be less reflective than the wall? Regardless I'm thinking of buying a good amount of black felt to make a border around the wall or screen, or just blacking out the whole wall around the area. Is this a good idea? I just want a more dimensional picture and a darker room to view in. All of the above posts, of which I've read most, have been really helpful, you all are a good lot. Thanks!


Hmmm... your "Friends" $5000 pj in your bedroom huh? Sounds like a special friend :)

Don't use felt. Use black velvet. It's more expensive, but will blackout 99% of the light that overspills on to it. This will give you a very square picture, even if everything isn't squared up perfectly in terms of the projector and the screen. simply get it as square as you can, and then zoom it out a bit to spill over the velvet a bit. Works great!

Hmmm... your "Friends" $5000 pj in your bedroom huh? Sounds like a special friend :)

My generous friend had a bedroom about 5' by 8' square, and so my bedroom became the movie theater. Waking up to a wall-sized screen wasn't bad at all..

I was just wondering what people out here have there Oppo settings at for the following...

Sharpness
Brightness
Contrast
Saturation
CCS
Truelife
Noise Reduction

I have done a search but between both of the 4805 threads it would take me a day to find anything...

Thanks much.My OPPO has the newest firmware OP971-D-1111B and these are my settings...not fully sure I have them right...but PQ is excellent...also using the ND2 filter if it matters.

Sharpness off
Brightness 0
Contrast 0
Saturation +1
CCS off
Truelife on
Noise Reduction off

I have had the 4805 for over two weeks now, having had the good fortune of getting one on Black Friday.

It is a Christmas present for my family. As such, I've had the, um, pleasure of looking at the large brown box that it came in (and in which it still resides) every day opposite my desk at work.

Eleven more days of this. Eleven more days of hearing all your experiences, and wishing that my first chance at PJ owenership could be consummated properly.

(Don't go there, guys. . . .)

I have taken the unit out in my office and attached my ThinkPad to it -- a relatively useless exercise, but at least affording a little confirmation that the 4805 actually works, didn't come pre-trashed, etc. For some reason, though Windows displays properly, when I pop a DVD into the tray and run WinDVD, the contents of the DVD does not display. This has happened with other display devices as well, so I'm sure it's either a WinDVD issue or ThinkPad issue, not a projector issue. No biggie.

I was wondering, however, if there is anything else I should do before unveiling this on Christmas morning (eg, registering with Infocus, deciding on extended warranties, etc)?

Many thanks for all who make a point of hepling others on this board.

My OPPO has the newest firmware OP971-D-1111B and these are my settings...not fully sure I have them right...but PQ is excellent...also using the ND2 filter if it matters.

Forgot to mention that I am also using the ND2 filter. How do I go about check the firmware version? This unit was just sent from Oppo last week so my guess is that it has the latest firmware.

Forgot to mention that I am also using the ND2 filter. How do I go about check the firmware version? This unit was just sent from Oppo last week so my guess is that it has the latest firmware.Straight from the OPPO site. :)

Q : How do I find out the firmware version of the OPDV971H DVD player?
A : Do the following to find out the firmware version:
• Eject the tray
• Press the "OSD" button on the remote control
• A menu will pop up to show the firmware version of the OPPO player. If you don't see the firmware version, this means that you have an older firmware version installed.

I have had the 4805 for over two weeks now, having had the good fortune of getting one on Black Friday.

It is a Christmas present for my family. As such, I've had the, um, pleasure of looking at the large brown box that it came in (and in which it still resides) every day opposite my desk at work.

Eleven more days of this. Eleven more days of hearing all your experiences, and wishing that my first chance at PJ owenership could be consummated properly.

(Don't go there, guys. . . .)

I have taken the unit out in my office and attached my ThinkPad to it -- a relatively useless exercise, but at least affording a little confirmation that the 4805 actually works, didn't come pre-trashed, etc. For some reason, though Windows displays properly, when I pop a DVD into the tray and run WinDVD, the contents of the DVD does not display. This has happened with other display devices as well, so I'm sure it's either a WinDVD issue or ThinkPad issue, not a projector issue. No biggie.

I was wondering, however, if there is anything else I should do before unveiling this on Christmas morning (eg, registering with Infocus, deciding on extended warranties, etc)?

Many thanks for all who make a point of hepling others on this board.


same thing happens on my dell L400 laptop (its like 5 years old) . I think it has something to do with the vid card on the motherboard of the laptop. It probably doesnt have enough juice (its just not powerful enough) to drive both the laptop LCD and the 4805, but thats just a thought

When the bulb dies...

does it tend to just dim out and then one day not strike or does it tend to go up in smoke and glass? Someone told me that proj bulbs have a special housing to keep flying glass contained so it won't damage anything (or anyone) is this correct for the 4805? I am way early in my bulbs life but I just want to know for later.

My experience is that it just dies one day. You don't see it getting dimmed any more than usual. No part of the bulb comes out of the PJ even if it explodes. Bulbs have mercury in them, so it is designed to be contained inside the PJ.

The only thing separating me from pixel mapped glory is 15 feet of cheap DVI to M1 cable which is currently lounging in some postal bin between here and CA. If only I could somehow bridge that 15 foot gap now and see... if only for a moment...

I have Theater Tek set-up -- a very elegant program with great flexibility -- DVDs look wonderful on my PC monitor. The nvidia 6800 card seems capable of anything at this point (I cranked a few 3D game demos up to maximum quality and she did not stutter). I also have the new X-Mystique 7.1 DD Live Sound Card installed as of yesterday and it's working brilliantly -- the Far Cry demo sounds very intense through my 5.1 HT surround system and it's nice to have to use only 1 cable to hook up DD 5.1 audio. MP3s sound pretty good through the same system (converted into DD 5.1) but it's true strength is in how it converts PC game surround into DD 5.1.. There's also a fraction of a microsecond delay before sound kicks in when launching your first MP3 (as the stereo to digital stream to DD conversion fires up) which is a bit annoying -- but it's a non-factor in games.

Okay, now the newbie-ish question (an answer will save me precious futzing around time when the cable arrives). I see two places to change resolution settings on my new set-up: 1) in Theater Tek which allows you to specify custom ARs and 2) in the nVidia controls which, after I overwrote the OEM nVidia driver with the real deal, now show 848 x 480 (you can imagine the moment of panic when this was not listed as a supported res on the OEM driver). I imagine I only need to change the resolution setting in the nVidia controls and keep TT set at 16:9 -- correct? Then it's just a question of setting the 4805 to native and crossing my fingers. Right?

Thanks,

Dan

Hey Dan,

Just wanted to let you know that HT turned ON doesn't hurt, but it is better to turn it off. Apparently, turning HT off is a pain because it has to be done in the BIOS. I can tell you that I have NOT turned mine off, and TT 2.2.1 runs perfectly fine, even @ 3x resize in ffdshow. For more info, visit the FFDshow FAQ thread. Mastiff discussed it a bit today.

I also wanted to give you a few tips for TT. First, in the video tab of the configuration menu, make sure you have vmr9 selected and not overlay. Second, go into the Advanced Video, and make sure fullscreen mode and YUV mixing are selected. Also select DXVA if you are not going to use ffdshow.

When you play your first movie, hit control e, and as Brian said, make sure it says 848x480 and not 477. PM me if it says 477. Brian and I figured out how to fix it. Also make sure "Lock Aspect Ratio" is selected so you have scan-line mapping.

And of course you know the 58, 28.5 settings. TT needs no adjustments except for saturation, which should be set to -42 (negative 42).

Dude, you are going to be happy you did this ;) .

Bugless,
If you really want to have a grand unveiling on X-Mas morning, build or buy a screen and get all the cables ready, then set the whole thing up after everyone else has gone to bed on X-Mas eve. Imagine the look on all their faces that morning when it's totally ready to go!
If you plan on logging lots of hours on the unit, you need to look into the lamp optional replacement warantee asap though.

That should be added to the FAQ. I know TT is not techinically linked to the 4805 but with a pj that does DVD pixel mapping it really does go hand in hand. I personally think that info all in one place is a huge plus!

My OPPO has the newest firmware OP971-D-1111B and these are my settings...not fully sure I have them right...but PQ is excellent...also using the ND2 filter if it matters.

Sharpness off
Brightness 0
Contrast 0
Saturation +1
CCS off
Truelife on
Noise Reduction off

Anyone else with info on what they are using for the Oppo settings?

Hey Dan,

Just wanted to let you know that HT turned ON doesn't hurt, but it is better to turn it off. Apparently, turning HT off is a pain because it has to be done in the BIOS. I can tell you that I have NOT turned mine off, and TT 2.2.1 runs perfectly fine, even @ 3x resize in ffdshow. For more info, visit the FFDshow FAQ thread. Mastiff discussed it a bit today.

I also wanted to give you a few tips for TT. First, in the video tab of the configuration menu, make sure you have vmr9 selected and not overlay. Second, go into the Advanced Video, and make sure fullscreen mode and YUV mixing are selected. Also select DXVA if you are not going to use ffdshow.

When you play your first movie, hit control e, and as Brian said, make sure it says 848x480 and not 477. PM me if it says 477. Brian and I figured out how to fix it. Also make sure "Lock Aspect Ratio" is selected so you have scan-line mapping.

And of course you know the 58, 28.5 settings. TT needs no adjustments except for saturation, which should be set to -42 (negative 42).

Dude, you are going to be happy you did this ;) .

That saturation was on Radeon - on Nvidea everything was zeroed. Of course your driver may vary.

In the bay area, what would be some good stores that would have good "reference quality" projector setups? Doesn't have to be 4805 at all.. Obviously, Bestbuy and CircuitCity aren't the places to go.

I called up Magnolia Hifi A/V stores (their "high end" store in Palo Alto), and sure enough they've got PJ setups, but no calibration..

Thanks.

I have white ceiling tile (suspended ceiling) above my screen & the whole basement for that matter.It lights up the room somewhat from the picture on the screen.Would the picture improve any if I could buy black or dark colored tile or maybe even paint the ones in the screen area a flat black?Any other suggestions would also be greatly appreciated.Mike

Yes, by leaps and bounds. Probably will make a bigger difference than any other modification you can make. A cheap fix is to cover them with a fabric as they are pretty hard to paint. Check out the the DYI theater builders forums for other ideas.....

I got my 4805 from the Black Friday deal as well. This was an upgrade from my X1 and I can say it was worth it. A few issues I have with mine are. I have just basic cable. I run the cable to my VCR in and then a composite out to the my Pioneer 1014 receiver. The receiver then upscales it to either Component or S vid. When watching TV programs there is a line on the very top of the image going all the way across. It wasnt there with my X1 and nothing else has changed. Also when changing channels the PJ will "search" for a signal between channels which gets quite annoying. My X1 didnt do this either.

I am also running my 360 @ 720p with this and it looks awsome! Defientely better then the X1 did. Here are some pics

All in all the 4805 BF deal was definetely worth it!

http://www.drobnak.com/dave_car/TVpics/kameo2.JPG

http://www.drobnak.com/dave_car/TVpics/kameo3.JPG

http://www.drobnak.com/dave_car/TVpics/PGR3.JPG

X1
http://www.drobnak.com/dave_car/TVpics/X360PGR.JPG

Juiced46,
Try messing with the sync threshold in the advanced picture menu and see if that solves the changing channels issue. That line you see is normal and is not normally seen on displays due to overscan. Turning overscan on should get rid of it.

http://japhule.collinsreport.com/4805FAQ/html/index.html#Q13

Hey Kras, in the spirit of the holiday season, will you at least PM me your fav 720 PJ of the moment. Plleeeesseeeeee. I may have to replace the faithful 4805 any day now and I have been researching endlessly as usual. You don't want my whole family crowded around my 17" LCD watching "Its a Wonderful Life" on Christmas Eve do you?

What if no one valued your opinion? What if ever time you posted something someone said..."oh, don't listen to him, he is not stable...."

Try and take my request as the positive endorsement of your expertise and a complement and share your thoughts, privately. I promise I wont tell anyone. Ever.

Someday you may have a shoe question. ( I have sold several million pair over the last several decades...I know shoes...) You would not want to find your self in a life or death shoe situation and need my help and have me turn my back would you?

And that concludes my quilt trip attempt of the evening. Carry on and Merry Christmas. :)

I have just basic cable. I run the cable to my VCR in and then a composite out to the my Pioneer 1014 receiver.

Good Lord, it's time to upgrade that VCR to at least S-VHS, or better yet, to a DVD recorder. ;)

Juiced46,
Try messing with the sync threshold in the advanced picture menu and see if that solves the changing channels issue. That line you see is normal and is not normally seen on displays due to overscan. Turning overscan on should get rid of it.

http://japhule.collinsreport.com/4805FAQ/html/index.html#Q13

The overscan worked for the line across the top. As far as it losing signal, i tried messing with the sync threshold but it is still doing it. I thought I read somewhere about a firmware upgrade that fixes this? I searched but cannot find it

Good Lord, it's time to upgrade that VCR to at least S-VHS, or better yet, to a DVD recorder. ;)

Tell me about it. What would I benefit going to S-VHS or a DVD recorder? Better outputs?

Yes, by leaps and bounds. Probably will make a bigger difference than any other modification you can make. A cheap fix is to cover them with a fabric as they are pretty hard to paint. Check out the the DYI theater builders forums for other ideas.....

Thanks Brian I Am.Why would ceiling tiles be hard to paint?What kind of fabric & how do you install it?Mike

I have white ceiling tile (suspended ceiling) above my screen & the whole basement for that matter.It lights up the room somewhat from the picture on the screen.Would the picture improve any if I could buy black or dark colored tile or maybe even paint the ones in the screen area a flat black?Any other suggestions would also be greatly appreciated.Mike

Flip the tiles over and paint the reverse side a flat black. Then you could, if need be, go back to the origional white! I was lazy and came up with another solution. It helped a great deal, but probably not as much as it would have had I taken the time to do like I previously mentioned. Click on the MY HOME THEATER PICS link below to take a peek.

Deerhunter

Where in the hell have you been?

That saturation was on Radeon - on Nvidea everything was zeroed. Of course your driver may vary.

I knew we kept Kras around for a reason ;) . I have an x700 pro - didn't think about your Nvidia.

Thanks Kras.

The overscan worked for the line across the top. As far as it losing signal, i tried messing with the sync threshold but it is still doing it. I thought I read somewhere about a firmware upgrade that fixes this? I searched but cannot find it

Some tuners work differently than others. I remember helping out one user in the old thread, changing vcrs did the trick for him. Maybe enabling blue screen on the vcr may help. The firmware fix does an auto-image when switching resolutions like 480i to 720p. It seems your 4805 is resyncing to 480i every time you change the channel.

Quick question, I have the 4805 hooked up via hdmi: I know about setting the RGB to 58 and the offset to 28.5, but those only affect color values, right? I should still use Avia to calibrate sharpness, contrast, etc, right? Couldn't find the answer to this in the FAQs or anywhere else, thanks!

I know about setting the RGB to 58 and the offset to 28.5, but those only affect color values, right?No, they change the BTB and WTW levels from 0 and 255 to 16 and 235 respectively. By adjusting all three settings (R, G & B) to the same values, the colour balance is not changed.
I should still use Avia to calibrate sharpness, contrast, etc, right? Yes, but you will likely find that at the end of the day you will have adjusted those settings up and down and wind up at the factory default values. The SP4805 is extremely well calibrated out-of-the-box.

Tell me about it. What would I benefit going to S-VHS or a DVD recorder? Better outputs?

Better outputs, a plethora more features, and insanely better picture.

for Temple & jwv651
Oppo -> DVI -> 4805

Oppo settings
Sharpness = Low
Brightness = 0
Contrast = 0
Saturation = -3 (minus 3)
TrueLife = on
CCS = off
Noise Reduction = off/Low (older movies)
Video mode = 2
TV display = Wide

SP4805
Brightness = 50
Contrast = 50
Gains RBG = 58 (per Bob Williams)
Offsets RBG = 28.5 (per Bob Williams)
Gamma = Film/Bright 1 (Afternoon Sunlight)
White Peak = 10
Aspect Ratio = 16:9

SP4805 just went over 400 hours
using a DaLite HCCV 80x45 permwall screen
medium color walls - light colored carpet

I downloaded the trial version of TT today and was VERY underwhelmed.

The only thing I liked about it was it's ability to expand a non-anamorphic title out to the whole screen.

Unless I'm missing something, this critter is only 1 step above using the Interactual player that comes on a bunch of DVD's??

Trying to THX it was a chore as it locks up on loops and menus... and I was surprised that I had to set the settings very far off baseline to get it in the ballpark.

It's almost like you need to use the Bob Williams DVD player settings to start with?? Even though it has the Nvidai decoders and I'm using an Nvidia card with the 77.77 drivers (at default) it was a challenge to get straight.

Aside from dealing well with non-anamorphic titles, I see nothing of redeeming value in what in IMHO a real cheap POS software. I think the player that comes free with Nero or PowerDVD (that came free with Sony drives) is overall more compliant to a user daring to interface with his software.

It also had no help files or "hover over tooltips" involved - ie the user interface sucked twinkies. Is the "trial version" just cut down to the point of silliness - or do the producers of TT have a picture of the AVS owners with a sheep? I don't see the value of this critter compared to the attention it's gotten here. Someone tell me where I'm wrong... PLEASE?

-W ( I wanted to like it - but really don't)

I think the big seller for 4805 owners is the ability to verify pixel mapping.

Overall thought I think the quality of processing it does to render the picture offers the most control and often best output.

Saying that those other programs are easier becaues of things like hover over tips and such is kind of like saying a HTIB is a better choice than a bunch of components because it was so much easier to put together, everything was color coded and you didn't have to setup a bunch of complicated speaker distance/size/whatever settings.

Speaking of verifying pixel mapping..... I've been trying to do 1:1 mapping for some time. So I'm using powerstrip... because I couldn't do it through windows or nvidia drivers. Anyways I got powerstrip to do it, but when I hit autosync on the projector remote it says 1025x768 what gives? Some help would be great!

I downloaded the trial version of TT today and was VERY underwhelmed.

The only thing I liked about it was it's ability to expand a non-anamorphic title out to the whole screen.

Unless I'm missing something, this critter is only 1 step above using the Interactual player that comes on a bunch of DVD's??

Trying to THX it was a chore as it locks up on loops and menus... and I was surprised that I had to set the settings very far off baseline to get it in the ballpark.

It's almost like you need to use the Bob Williams DVD player settings to start with?? Even though it has the Nvidai decoders and I'm using an Nvidia card with the 77.77 drivers (at default) it was a challenge to get straight.

Aside from dealing well with non-anamorphic titles, I see nothing of redeeming value in what in IMHO a real cheap POS software. I think the player that comes free with Nero or PowerDVD (that came free with Sony drives) is overall more compliant to a user daring to interface with his software.

It also had no help files or "hover over tooltips" involved - ie the user interface sucked twinkies. Is the "trial version" just cut down to the point of silliness - or do the producers of TT have a picture of the AVS owners with a sheep? I don't see the value of this critter compared to the attention it's gotten here. Someone tell me where I'm wrong... PLEASE?

-W ( I wanted to like it - but really don't)

I'm not really sure what it is that you are looking for, and I'm not really sure what it is, SPECIFICALLY, that you don't like about it. The user interface is extremely easy to use - especially the configuration menus and the simple ability to add ffdshow and NVPP in a simple drop-down menu.

What's better is the ability to make real time adjustments to video controls, ffdshow, dscaler sharpness plug-ins. Hell, you can even change renderless exclusive to non-renderless, vmr9 to overlay, and from ffdshow to DXVA while the movie is playing with just a few buttons.

You can manually change the AR (lately I have been using 854 instead of 848)

We like it because it is easy to use - but you wanted to be overwhelmed. Get Zoomplayer then.

You should not have to THX anything, except the color and tint - Bob's numbers are all you need for WTW/BTB calibration. Pop in DVE or Avia and use the blue filter - takes 2 min. Refrence settings for Radeon are 0 contrast, brightness, and tint. -42 for saturation (renderless vmr9 of course). Kras reference settings for Nvidia were all 0s (driver dependent of course).

All you need is renderless vmr9, and simple verification of AR.

Do you have any SPECIFIC questions about it? Man, I can understand if you have paid for it, but the trial is free.

Kras even likes it - that should tell you at least something.

MOUW, try turning that white peak down to zero for a few days and see if you get used to it, the plus 10 is just blowing out the whites

I also wanted to give you a few tips for TT. First, in the video tab of the configuration menu, make sure you have vmr9 selected and not overlay. Second, go into the Advanced Video, and make sure fullscreen mode and YUV mixing are selected. Also select DXVA if you are not going to use ffdshow.

When you play your first movie, hit control e, and as Brian said, make sure it says 848x480 and not 477. PM me if it says 477. Brian and I figured out how to fix it. Also make sure "Lock Aspect Ratio" is selected so you have scan-line mapping.

And of course you know the 58, 28.5 settings. TT needs no adjustments except for saturation, which should be set to -42 (negative 42).

Dude, you are going to be happy you did this ;) .
Geno - you are the man. Thanks very much for this very helpful post -- I followed your advice to the T and spent many hours last night working on the pixel map project. I now know what it's like to be part of the OCD HT crowd. My wife kept popping in, looking at my PC monitor, the 4805 image, and then me and growling "you are such a geek". WAF does not get HT...

Anyway, it went well for the most part, I managed to get Star Wars: ROTS up and running pixel mapped (confirmed by the 4805 and TT) with all the right settings and yes, it looked amazing. The opening sequence was crystal clear -- especially the back and forth tight shots of the interiors of Obi Wan and Anakins' fighters (it looked almost HD). The only problem (and it's driving me nuts) is getting the correct resolution to stick both on my monitor and on the 4805 AND having TT appear on the 4805. I tried every option and mode I could and it never seemed to work quite right. I ended up digging a deep hole with an active window appearing on one monitor, and the cursor on the other. I even got the dreaded XP BSOD a few times. When I did get the resolutions right on both monitors, the 4805 would only show my Windows background image. The nVidia display wizard seems very straight forward but it doesn't seem to work :-) (or I'm missing something). I've got it set-up in dual mode -- what am I missing... HELP!

My setting: Oppo -> DVI -> 4805 (1111B firmware)

Oppo settings:
Sharpness = OFF
Brightness = 0
Contrast = 0
Saturation = +1
TrueLife = OFF
CCS =OFF
Noise Reduction = OFF
Video mode = 1
TV display = Wide/Squeeze

SP4805
Brightness = 50
Contrast = 50
Gains RBG = 58 (per Bob Williams)
Offsets RBG = 28.5 (per Bob Williams)
Gamma = Film
White Peak = 0
Aspect Ratio = 16:9

Geno - you are the man. Thanks very much for this very helpful post -- I followed your advice to the T and spent many hours last night working on the pixel map project. I now know what it's like to be part of the OCD HT crowd. My wife kept popping in, looking at my PC monitor, the 4805 image, and then me and growling "you are such a geek". WAF does not get HT...

Anyway, it went well for the most part, I managed to get Star Wars: ROTS up and running pixel mapped (confirmed by the 4805 and TT) with all the right settings and yes, it looked amazing. The opening sequence was crystal clear -- especially the back and forth tight shots of the interiors of Obi Wan and Anakins' fighters (it looked almost HD). The only problem (and it's driving me nuts) is getting the correct resolution to stick both on my monitor and on the 4805 AND having TT appear on the 4805. I tried every option and mode I could and it never seemed to work quite right. I ended up digging a deep hole with an active window appearing on one monitor, and the cursor on the other. I even got the dreaded XP BSOD a few times. When I did get the resolutions right on both monitors, the 4805 would only show my Windows background image. The nVidia display wizard seems very straight forward but it doesn't seem to work :-) (or I'm missing something). I've got it set-up in dual mode -- what am I missing... HELP!

Unfortunately, I can't help you with NViidia - I use ATI and do not use dual monitors. Brian is the man for NVidia. I will be joining you shortly after Christmas as my new HTPC will have a BFG 6600 GT OC in it. Can't wait!

BTW, just in case you didn't see Kras' post - that -42 is for ATI. NVidia is 0s all the way. Doulble check with Avia or DVE blue filters to make sure your driver is correct for sat/hue.

HTPCs can give headaches - but once you figure it out, the reward is great.

Unfortunately, I can't help you with NViidia - I use ATI and do not use dual monitors. Brian is the man for NVidia. I will be joining you shortly after Christmas as my new HTPC will have a BFG 6600 GT OC in it. Can't wait!

BTW, just in case you didn't see Kras' post - that -42 is for ATI. NVidia is 0s all the way. Doulble check with Avia or DVE blue filters to make sure your driver is correct for sat/hue.

HTPCs can give headaches - but once you figure it out, the reward is great.I'll check in with Brian about any nVidia advice he can give (I did see Kras' post -- thanks). Something tells me that it's a problem specific to my set-up (i.e. bug) and not an incorrect settings issue (maybe it was the appearance of the BSOD). I'm pretty sure though that with enough tinkering I can find a way to have the 4805 set correctly with TT appearing where it should appear. My PC monitor will just have a weird res while I watch DVDs. I can live with that -- I'll think through some strategies today to try when I get home tonight. Heck, with the NYC transit strike looming I might stay home and tinker tomorrow too :-).

Dan

So,, is pixel maping only for PC based video output or can any DVD player using a DVI or HDMI output do the pixel mapping?

If it is based on DVI/HDMI, how about pixel mapping on DVI/HDMI capable HD cable box?

So,, is pixel maping only for PC based video output or can any DVD player using a DVI or HDMI output do the pixel mapping?

If it is based on DVI/HDMI, how about pixel mapping on DVI/HDMI capable HD cable box?

Besides an HTPC, the only DVD players I know that can pixel-map are the Bravo and Momitsu. I believe Oppo is going to try in the future.

You can always get an IScan.

I imagine I can just use my laptop with powerstrip to do the pixel mapping then right?

Or one of the other software programs to map?

Can it be done using WINDVD 7?

I imagine I can just use my laptop with powerstrip to do the pixel mapping then right?

Or one of the other software programs to map?

Can it be done using WINDVD 7?

You can do it as long as you are using dvi. You cannot pixel map with vga.

When you play your first movie, hit control e, and as Brian said, make sure it says 848x480 and not 477. PM me if it says 477. Brian and I figured out how to fix it. Also make sure "Lock Aspect Ratio" is selected so you have scan-line mapping.

And of course you know the 58, 28.5 settings. TT needs no adjustments except for saturation, which should be set to -42 (negative 42).

Dude, you are going to be happy you did this ;) .

Hi, I was under the impression the 58, 28.5 settings were for adjustments using DVI on stand alone DVD players as the 4805 is set for PC DVI and if using the software DVD players on a PC they should be left at 50. Please let me know if I've interpreted the FAQ and some posts incorrectly.

Thanks,
Gregg

Hi, I was under the impression the 58, 28.5 settings were for adjustments using DVI on stand alone DVD players as the 4805 is set for PC DVI and if using the software DVD players on a PC they should be left at 50. Please let me know if I've interpreted the FAQ and some posts incorrectly.

Thanks,
Gregg

Yes! That was my take on everything too. Which is why I might have been so badly dissapointed with TT yesterday. I thought those settings were for stand alone players not an HTPC. ???

-W

Hi, I was under the impression the 58, 28.5 settings were for adjustments using DVI on stand alone DVD players as the 4805 is set for PC DVI and if using the software DVD players on a PC they should be left at 50. Please let me know if I've interpreted the FAQ and some posts incorrectly.

Thanks,
Gregg

The gains/offsets settings depends on the dvi signal being sent out by the source. It's possible for a standalone dvd player to be sending out pc dvi levels, and for a computer to send out studio dvi levels. If you are using VMR9 rendering from your pc then it will be sending out studio dvi levels, and you should use the 58/28.5 gains/offsets in this case. If you are using Overlay, then you should be using the 50.

I'm not really sure what it is that you are looking for, and I'm not really sure what it is, SPECIFICALLY, that you don't like about it. The user interface is extremely easy to use - especially the configuration menus and the simple ability to add ffdshow and NVPP in a simple drop-down menu.

I think what annoyed me 1st is that it did not seem to come with a help file or a help button in the drop down menues.

And now I'm confused about the Williams vs HTPC vs stand alone player stuff.

I'll get back with specific questions.... I do want to see this thing work. :)

-W

If I have the resolution pixel mapped, and I run the dvd player software full screen, is the dvd also pixel mapped? For instance, if I was to pixel map a media center pc, and run the built in dvd player in windows media center, will the also be mapped?

Thanks Brian I Am.Why would ceiling tiles be hard to paint?What kind of fabric & how do you install it?Mike

If you are going to use fabric, the cheapest black fabric in the store will do. I cover the wall behind the screen with it.

What is being pixel mapped is your pc's output to the 4805. From there, everything is done by your pc's processing. Your software is now scaling and deinterlacing your dvd. Running your software full screen will make it fit (by scaling) in whatever resolution you have set, so yes, it is pixel mapped. So what is happening is the software is taking dvd (which is 720x480i) and is being deinterlaced and scaled to whatever resolution you're set at (848x480 for example).

The gains/offsets settings depends on the dvi signal being sent out by the source. It's possible for a standalone dvd player to be sending out pc dvi levels, and for a computer to send out studio dvi levels. If you are using VMR9 rendering from your pc then it will be sending out studio dvi levels, and you should use the 58/28.5 gains/offsets in this case. If you are using Overlay, then you should be using the 50.

If this is the case, then won't the levels be wrong when you do anything else in Windows that isn't using VMR9? Meaning, playing back a DVD with VMR9 will look great, but just looking at the desktop, running an application or browsing the web or something won't look so good because the gains and offsets aren't what they should be (because those things aren't using VMR9). It seems when I set my 4805 to the Bob Williams settings the colors on the desktop start to get "hot" for the lack of a better term. Is this to be expected? Do people just compromise the look of everything else on their HTPC to get their video/DVD playback to look the best?

Yes! That was my take on everything too. Which is why I might have been so badly dissapointed with TT yesterday. I thought those settings were for stand alone players not an HTPC. ???

-W

Read Ja Phule's #830 post - he hit it on the money. What video card are you using? If ATI, then I can give you some more settings for the 3d panel, and the right drivers for motion-adaptive de-interlacing.

I think it is safe to say Ja Phule knows his stuff. :D

What I am waiting for is the Oppo to either release a new firmware or a new model that can pixel-map - that will really give HTPCs a run for their money.

I still like ffdshow, mainly for its denoise options. It can really filter out annoying crap like sparklies and grainy film. I suppose DVD players have denoise built-in.

TakeFlight,
Either take the compromise or have a user preset for desktop work. It seems most people here only use their htpc for viewing videos anyway.

Read Ja Phule's #830 post - he hit it on the money. What video card are you using? If ATI, then I can give you some more settings for the 3d panel, and the right drivers for motion-adaptive de-interlacing.

I think it is safe to say Ja Phule knows his stuff. :D

What I am waiting for is the Oppo to either release a new firmware or a new model that can pixel-map - that will really give HTPCs a run for their money.

I still like ffdshow, mainly for its denoise options. It can really filter out annoying crap like sparklies and grainy film. I suppose DVD players have denoise built-in.

I believe Oppo stated that the Faroudja chip has something to the effect of 500+ functions that they can go through to enable certain settings. Only problem is, they don't have good communication with Genesis on working with the chip to do certain things (unlike Panasonic and other manufacturers).

We know Faroudja can scale content to 854x480 (the 4805 is using the faroudja to scale is it not? :)). I have doubts if it will ever be done with the current Oppo but I can still wish.

TakeFlight,
Either take the compromise or have a user preset for desktop work. It seems most people here only use their htpc for viewing videos anyway.

OK, that's what I thought. Unfortunately, I've run out of presets. I have presets for my HTPC, Motorola DCT-6200 STB and a Pioneer 300 disc mega DVD changer (for when I don't care about the absolute best quality DVD playback -- that's where I keep all my DVDs). So, having two presets for the HTPC will be a problem. I guess I could just sacrifice the preset for the mega changer to be used as a second HTPC preset and just hope one of my 3 presets works fairly well with the changer. :) I guess this will work because any "serious" movie watching is always done with the HTPC. I can live with a less than perfect picture from the changer.

I have doubts if it will ever be done with the current Oppo but I can still wish.

I suppose what would be really interesting is to compare Oppo images - one without pixel-mapping and one with it (if it is ever available).

Wonder if it would be that noticeable? Scoring a 98 on the bechmark would be tough to beat. Maybe a pixel-mapping Oppo would net a perfect 100.

Pixel mapping that much of an imporvement over, say, Compenet video suing the 4805's Faroudja to scale to 480p?

Pixel mapping that much of an imporvement over, say, Compenet video suing the 4805's Faroudja to scale to 480p?

It's up for debate, of course. IMHO, it was night and day. I really think it is the way to go for DVD viewing.

Haven't seen the Oppo or a Denon, though.

We do not do a 1:1 mapping outside of the HD standards. We are looking into supporting custom resolutions, but have yet to impliment them in software.

One can only hope. :D

We do not do a 1:1 mapping outside of the HD standards. We are looking into supporting custom resolutions, but have yet to impliment them in software.

One can only hope. :D
The Oppo has spoken... Cool.

[QUOTE= Scoring a 98 on the bechmark would be tough to beat. [/QUOTE]

Thats what has me debating the issue between pixel mapped D1 or D2, or the OPPO.
Does one of them sound any better? Maybe that could help make a decision.

Then there is the Snazio?

The benchmark doesn't take into account pixel mapping, it's only a guideline. Pixel-mapping seems to help with details/clarity. Pixel mapping players on the benchmark only get around 60 or less score due to their poor processing. Clarity and detail on the other hand is very good it seems.

So the pixel mapped players will show more proccesing erors like jaggies and other not so smooth anomilies?

So the pixel mapped players will show more proccesing erors like jaggies and other not so smooth anomilies?

No, you can't assume that all pixel mapped players will, it's dependent on the processing chip they are using. The Bravo and Momitsu both use the Sigma 8550 chip, which is a flag reading deinterlacer. The newer snazio and coming soon, zensonic, use a newer sigma designs chip, 8620, which is motion adaptive (like faroudja).

Theatertek PC software is good because it is also motion adaptive. The versions of windvd and powerdvd that i've seen are flag based (though new versions may be better).

Flag reading and motion adaptive is just one example, see the Secrets benchmark (and HQV Benchmark dvd) for other things.

So in real world viewing, what kind of differences in picture quality show up between a pixel mapped Bravo and the Oppo?

Has anyone compared back to back?

Do you have any SPECIFIC questions about it? Man, I can understand if you have paid for it, but the trial is free.

The trial may be free... but unless you know something I don't ;) , the player is fairly pricy - when compared to a standalone player or even a box-software player.

My biggest frustration came from not finding the drop-down menu by right clicking. All I had to work with was the top bar menus!!

I'm liking it better now.....

In reference ot the last question at hand..... why compromise desktop vs video with VMR-9 as opposed to leaving the PJ at it's defaults and using overlay???

-W

Read Ja Phule's #830 post - he hit it on the money. What video card are you using? If ATI, then I can give you some more settings for the 3d panel, and the right drivers for motion-adaptive de-interlacing.

I think it is safe to say Ja Phule knows his stuff. :D

What I am waiting for is the Oppo to either release a new firmware or a new model that can pixel-map - that will really give HTPCs a run for their money.

I still like ffdshow, mainly for its denoise options. It can really filter out annoying crap like sparklies and grainy film. I suppose DVD players have denoise built-in.


OK... now we're getting somewhere. Also - I had not FOUND the right-click menus - just the stuff on top. :D

-W

Where can I find the M1-DA adapter locally...(Dallas area?)

Hi, I was under the impression the 58, 28.5 settings were for adjustments using DVI on stand alone DVD players as the 4805 is set for PC DVI and if using the software DVD players on a PC they should be left at 50. Please let me know if I've interpreted the FAQ and some posts incorrectly.

Thanks,
Gregg

Clams as well,

If you use TheaterTek VMR9 rather than Video Overlay - then you are setup for Video DVI rather than PC DVI pretty much by default on NVidia. However if you want to use your desktop you will want both presets.

So in real world viewing, what kind of differences in picture quality show up between a pixel mapped Bravo and the Oppo?

Has anyone compared back to back?

From the OPPO thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5828102&highlight=bravo#post5828102

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5714409&highlight=bravo#post5714409

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5646322&highlight=bravo#post5646322

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5639615&highlight=bravo#post5639615

Keep in mind that a lot of these were early comparisons with old firmware, and the OPPO's image has improved dramatically since then.

Most people liked the image of their D1 or D2, but they were hugely unreliable, many people replacing loaders, etc. Even in the early days of the OPPO thread some people considered the image quality between the 2 a tossup. Now the OPPO has gotten a lot better.

Also realize that OPPO's customer service is first rate. If you have a question and email them, you will get a response, even on Sunday, usually in less than an hour. They continue to improve the firmware, etc.

If I was looking to get a pixel map dvd player, I would look at something newer in design then the Momitsu or Bravo. I'm not totally sure what's out there.

By the way, you can access all of this information by heading over to the dvd players forum and searching one of the 2 huge OPPO threads with "Bravo"

What I like about the OPPO is that it looks great, has DVD audio, and has been totally and completely reliable. Plus the menus, navigation and layer change are incredibly fast.

Wes

Clams as well,

If you use TheaterTek VMR9 rather than Video Overlay - then you are setup for Video DVI rather than PC DVI pretty much by default on NVidia. However if you want to use your desktop you will want both presets.

Ok, I get it now Kras, thanks to all of you. And finding the right click menu made a world of difference in my opinion of TT. Not sure if a week is long enough to A-B it to other stuff, so it might not get to live... but...

TheaterTek defaults to VMR9. But can anyone tell me why to not just switch TT to overlay? Is there an advantage to VMR9? (past the fun of going into the PJ and plugging in Bobs presets and having the desktop get funny as a result?)

Also what is VMR7? - I see that as a choice too.... LOL :)

-W

Ok, I get it now Kras, thanks to all of you. And finding the right click menu made a world of difference in my opinion of TT. Not sure if a week is long enough to A-B it to other stuff, so it might not get to live... but...

TheaterTek defaults to VMR9. But can anyone tell me why to not just switch TT to overlay? Is there an advantage to VMR9? (past the fun of going into the PJ and plugging in Bobs presets and having the desktop get funny as a result?)

Also what is VMR7? - I see that as a choice too.... LOL :)

-W

What I really need to know is what video card you are using, unless I passed it up earlier.

First, you should not be able to right-click to access the menu if you are using renderless exclusive mode. Instead, simply press control-c while the movie is playing and the configuration menu pops up. If you are going to use vmr9, go to the video tab and select advanced video and select fullscreen and YUV mixing. DXVA also if no ffdshow. If you are in renderless exclusive, then the right click will no longer work as everything is pretty much controlled by your card now.

As for overlay vs vmr9, overlay is a 2D application while vmr9 is a 3D application. vmr9 adds much more flexibilty and image enhancement. The video is "rendered" on a per-pixel basis using the 3D capabilities of the card. vmr7 is old school. BTW, make sure you have SP2 installed on your HTPC.

Flip back and forth btw the two and you will start to notice the difference. Just remember that for overlay, rgb gains/offsets remain at defaults. vmr9, since it is now 0-255, much be restricted to 16-235, so 58/28.5. Easiest thing is to save two presets, one for overlay and one for vmr9. Control-c to access the video tab to select btw the two renderers.

I WILL convert you. And what IS your video card?

Wes,

Thanks for the links. I just started researching some player options. Unfortunately, a nice little lucrative side job I was counting on has just been canceled. No new player for me for a while. My hd841 will have to do for now. It's doing ok from component out, $42 can't complain to much.

So in real world viewing, what kind of differences in picture quality show up between a pixel mapped Bravo and the Oppo?A pixel-mapped Bravo has the better image.

Virtually all complaints with the Bravo have to do with non-PQ issues such as hangups, failure to read some disks, etc. Never with the PQ.

While I understand that some people get frustrated with a non-responsive unit, I do not believe in "throwing the baby out with the bathwater"!!

I have been buying and fixing Bravo players with excellent results and installing them for family and friends.

Changing one capacitor in the power supply solves 99% of the issues and keeping the unit cool the other 1%. New firmware allows it to be region-free and use custom output resolutions beyond the standard pixel-map of 852x480.

So ... it's no skin off my nose if people forgo PQ for convenience. If you have a Bravo you are unhappy with, PM me and I'll find it a home.

OTOH, if you want the simplest, cheapest and best PQ available then pick up a Bravo D1 or D2. Do not use a Bravo is you are not using digital connections with a fixed-pixel display! If you are using component connections, I whole-heartedly recommend the Oppo.

If you have the cash, the Momitsu and, particularily the SnaZio units seem nice.

If you have the cash, the time and OCD then build yourself an HTPC but remember to watch the thing occasionally! ;)

If you have the cash, the time and OCD then build yourself an HTPC but remember to watch the thing occasionally! ;)

What's the fun in watching movies :p ?

A pixel-mapped Bravo has the better image.

Virtually all complaints with the Bravo have to do with non-PQ issues such as hangups, failure to read some disks, etc. Never with the PQ.

While I understand that some people get frustrated with a non-responsive unit, I do not believe in "throwing the baby out with the bathwater"!!

I have been buying and fixing Bravo players with excellent results and installing them for family and friends.

Changing one capacitor in the power supply solves 99% of the issues and keeping the unit cool the other 1%. New firmware allows it to be region-free and use custom output resolutions beyond the standard pixel-map of 852x480.

So ... it's no skin off my nose if people forgo PQ for convenience. If you have a Bravo you are unhappy with, PM me and I'll find it a home.

OTOH, if you want the simplest, cheapest and best PQ available then pick up a Bravo D1 or D2. Do not use a Bravo is you are not using digital connections with a fixed-pixel display!

If you have the cash, the Momitsu and SnaZio units seem nice.

If you have the cash, the time and OCD then build yourself an HTPC but remember to watch the thing occasionally! ;)

Cavu,

Not to be dificult, but have you seen the OPPO in action to compare it to your Bravo? If not, then please at least somewhat temper your "this is the gospel" style responses.

Also, most folks (myself included) aren't really looking to start replacing capacitors in our hardware after it blows up.

If you are going to continue to recommend the Bravo every time someone asks, I think it would be helpful if you could give them access to your information on repairing them, and at least give them a heads up. If I was buying a Bravo off Ebay with the understanding that I would be doing a little custom work on it, and then it would look great and be reliable, that would be totally different than buying one off of Ebay and expecting it to be reliable and stable and then have it break.

I have an OPPO, I'll be very clear about that. I don't have a Bravo. So I won't say that the OPPO's picture trounces the Bravo, or even that I know it to be better or worse. But there are people that have owned both, *some* preferred the OPPO, some didn't (based on picture quality). All preferred the OPPO for build quality and reliability. And clearly for a dvd player, it is a good product, based on Kris Deering's recommendation.

Wes

Not to be dificult, but have you seen the OPPO in action to compare it to your Bravo? If not, then please at least somewhat temper your "this is the gospel" style responses.I had a Oppo before I got my SP4805. When I got the Bravo to complement the 4805, I gave the Oppo and my Hitachi Ultravision RPTV to my son for his new apartment.

If you are going to continue to recommend the Bravo every time someone asks, I think it would be helpful if you could give them access to your information on repairing them, and at least give them a heads up.If you were to review my past posts, you will find that I always caution the reader that the Bravo is not all peaches and cream.

My 'repair info' isn't secret - it's the same info that VInc. tech support provide to any user or repair shop. [Replace 1000uF C1022 on PS board]I have an OPPOYes, we all know that. And you seem equally prepared to recommend it over the Bravo (or anything else for that matter) when anyone inquires.

If the Oppo could provide the same pixel-map output as the Bravo, it would become my newest best friend! ;)

Aside from dealing well with non-anamorphic titles, I see nothing of redeeming value in what in IMHO a real cheap POS software.

I will be co authoring Clams new book "How to make Friends at AV Science". Watch for it on the best sellers list. :)

It sounds like the good folks have helped you work through most of your issues so I won't pile on...well OK I will pile on just a bit.... Having used ALL the other players mentioned and many others, TT is simply the best OVERALL package available. You can do all the same things by getting Nvidias new drivers, Zoomplayer, FFdshow etc etc, if your so inclinded. You can also do most of the things Windows does by using Linux or DOS for that matter, but do you REALLY want to?

Some facts you can argue but it won't do you much good....
VRM 9 is superior to overlay. VRM9 is 2 more better than VRM7
Nvidia is superior to ATI
Beer is superior to Tea.
Dont question Kras and dont ask him what projector to buy.

ATTEN DANNNNNNNNNNNN

I will try and help later tonight or in the AM. Its just an Nvidia settings issue. When TT is playing on the 4805 you should have NOTHING on your other monitor or a non functioning desktop.....

Actually you are wrong - ATI has a perfect color decoder - NVidia does not. I could not get the blue only colorbars perfect with NVidia. Maybe there is something in FFDShow to tweak that....

Ok, I just ordered a 4805.

Now, the screen.

Will be sitting roughly 11.5-13' ft from screen, room will be fairly dark @ night.

Thinking of 92".

Do I get Da-Lite HIgh Contrast Mat white or OPtoma Greywolf 92"?

I can get the Optoma Grey 92" model: DS-9092PM for about $100 shipped.

Whatcha think?


Help, have to order so I have in time for my 4805 :)
Thanks.

Ja Phule and Kras,

Thank you both for taking the time in explaining the gains/offsets in more detail. Looks like I'll have to demo TT as well.

Take care....
Gregg

Do I get Da-Lite HIgh Contrast Mat white or OPtoma Greywolf 92"?

I can get the Optoma Grey 92" model: DS-9092PM for about $100 shipped.

Whatcha think?



My .02 cents. I just returned the Optoma Grey 92" for most of the reasons posted already such as:
The distinct difference in the top qtr of the screen seemingly caused by the plastic film used in the mfg process.
The limited viewing cone.
Loss of brightness when ceiling mounting the projector.

I'm presently waiting on my Da-Lite HCMW to ship from the factory.

Gregg

VRM9 is 2 more better than VRM7

ROFL :p

Do not use a Bravo is you are not using digital connections with a fixed-pixel display! If you are using component connections, I whole-heartedly recommend the Oppo

I'd have to disagree. Do not use the Oppo over component, it is only good over DVI. Any Oppo owner would tell you that. :)

I had a Oppo before I got my SP4805. When I got the Bravo to complement the 4805, I gave the Oppo and my Hitachi Ultravision RPTV to my son for his new apartment.

If you were to review my past posts, you will find that I always caution the reader that the Bravo is not all peaches and cream.If the Oppo could provide the same pixel-map output as the Bravo, it would become my newest best friend! ;)

Hey, that's enough for me, sorry, I didn't see anywhere that you'd used the OPPO. Your opinion as stated, then, works for me. I apologize, and retract my first statement, especially.

I would be interested, actually, to see a Bravo on my setup, so I could compare myself, and see how it looks.

I will chill out here in OPPO land. Someday, maybe, I"ll try an HTPC.

Over and out. . .

Wes

Actually you are wrong - ATI has a perfect color decoder - NVidia does not. I could not get the blue only colorbars perfect with NVidia. Maybe there is something in FFDShow to tweak that

Misguided, delusional and annoying yes...wrong in this case, questionable.

A PERFECT color decoder? Thats kind of like a PERFECT woman isn't it? Would your really recommend someone purchase an ATI card of any type over Nvidia at the moment for video reproduction?

You've hurt my feelings so I'm going to stop posting and start watching movies for the rest of the holiday season. Here is just a snippet of supporting evidence for my statement. My jaggy image has PERFECT color however... (http://www.anandtech.com/printarticle.aspx?i=2551) While it deals mainly with decoding, I have not read anything, anywhere, by any publication, that ATI is currently superior to Nvidia when it comes to overall video quality. I'll break my own rule and question you and wait for some empirical data to support your claim..... :(

Merry Christmas

Well just for fun I hooked up my 6412 from comcast via the DVI to the 4805. Although the picture was very nice on the HD feeds, the SD was detected at something like 1440x240 (yuck).

If I changed the setting on the 6412 to 480p for 4:3 then it was a bit better. Curious to see what others have for the settings on the comcast 6412 if your using the DVI connection.

Also, if I use the DVI - should I change the color settings to 58 and 28.5 as suggested for some DVD players via digital connections?

Sorry if these are dumb questions - still a little green but learning fast...

What I really need to know is what video card you are using, unless I passed it up earlier.

First, you should not be able to right-click to access the menu if you are using renderless exclusive mode. Instead, simply press control-c while the movie is playing and the configuration menu pops up. If you are going to use vmr9, go to the video tab and select advanced video and select fullscreen and YUV mixing. DXVA also if no ffdshow. If you are in renderless exclusive, then the right click will no longer work as everything is pretty much controlled by your card now.

As for overlay vs vmr9, overlay is a 2D application while vmr9 is a 3D application. vmr9 adds much more flexibilty and image enhancement. The video is "rendered" on a per-pixel basis using the 3D capabilities of the card. vmr7 is old school. BTW, make sure you have SP2 installed on your HTPC.

Flip back and forth btw the two and you will start to notice the difference. Just remember that for overlay, rgb gains/offsets remain at defaults. vmr9, since it is now 0-255, much be restricted to 16-235, so 58/28.5. Easiest thing is to save two presets, one for overlay and one for vmr9. Control-c to access the video tab to select btw the two renderers.

I WILL convert you. And what IS your video card?

Card is Nvidia 5700, with the 77.77 driver set. My Windows XP is SP1, it's a non internet machine so I thought SP2 uneeded. Why is it needed?

I played with it a little more tonight.... and liked it more yet. :) How do you feel about the NV post=processor built in?

I will be co authoring Clams new book "How to make Friends at AV Science". Watch for it on the best sellers list. :)


Heh......... let's remember that I had only top menu to work with and the thing comes with no help-file built in. So to me it looked like a clam.

After downloading the PDF and finding the rest of the menus, it's a different piece of software for sure :)


-W

Although the picture was very nice on the HD feeds, the SD was detected at something like 1440x240 (yuck).The Faroudja deinterlacer of the SP4805 does not operate on the M1 connections; you cannot feed the projector a 480i/576i signal via DVI.

If I changed the setting on the 6412 to 480p for 4:3 then it was a bit better. Curious to see what others have for the settings on the comcast 6412 if your using the DVI connection.Set 4:3 Override to OFF.

Also, if I use the DVI - should I change the color settings to 58 and 28.5 as suggested for some DVD players via digital connections?Yes.

Check this POST (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6698172&&#post6698172) from about 250 messages back in this thread.

I will be co authoring Clams new book "How to make Friends at AV Science". Watch for it on the best sellers list. :)

****

ATTEN DANNNNNNNNNNNN

I will try and help later tonight or in the AM. Its just an Nvidia settings issue. When TT is playing on the 4805 you should have NOTHING on your other monitor or a non functioning desktop.....
:) :) :) <-- my highest rating

Thanks Brian. Spend your AM tweaking TT or mixing tea and beer. I found a happy way to make everything work just fine. The key was giving up completely on nVidia's touchy and, IMO, schizophrenic dual mode feature and setting the two monitors up as a straight clone. When it's time to watch a DVD I simply change the nvidia resolution to 848 x 480 and quickly power down my PC monitor as it starts to go into convulsions. I look to my desktop on the 4805, click on TT and I'm in pixel mapped heaven.

BTW I think I'm seeing definite signs that Kras is about to breakdown and give you his 720p PJ recommendation (it's the least he could do for hurting your feelings).

Thanks for your help (Geno too).

Dan

:) :) :) <-- my highest rating

Thanks Brian. Spend your AM tweaking TT or mixing tea and beer. I found a happy way to make everything work just fine. The key was giving up completely on nVidia's touchy and, IMO, schizophrenic dual mode feature and setting the two monitors up as a straight clone. When it's time to watch a DVD I simply change the nvidia resolution to 848 x 480 and quickly power down my PC monitor as it starts to go into convulsions. I look to my desktop on the 4805, click on TT and I'm in pixel mapped heaven.


Dan

I just use the "single display" mode and switch to the 4805 when it's movie time. Then the PC monitor can have it's own settings and the card and drivers never ever bitch, and everything works like a glove.

-W

I just use the "single display" mode and switch to the 4805 when it's movie time. Then the PC monitor can have it's own settings and the card and drivers never ever bitch, and everything works like a glove.

-W
Hmmmm... That sounds very sensible. I'll give it a shot. Thanks Clams.

With all the talk about pixel-mapping, OPPO vs. Bravo (vs. HTPC), etc., etc. I really don't know what I am missing in PQ. To be honest, I have an Onkyo HTIB (LS-V955 Envision Home Theater) and using the DVD player in it via component to the 4805 and I must say that the PQ is already stunning with exceptional clarity. I really have no idea what I would get going to one of the above choices that would trump this PQ, I guess I will have to someday see what I may be missing.

Does anybody here tried to add a wide lens for 4805?

CKL and Lion tried and they said 4805 can't do that.....

Will Optoma H27 can add third parties wide lens? The one from Optoma cost $999, but Olympus WCON-08B cost only $120....

Deerhunter

Where in the hell have you been?

Geno, my Man!!!

Just hangin' out. Watchin' movies on the good 'ol 4805! I haven't been able to lend much here since the FAQ's link went up. The newbs can basically get all the info they're looking for there or by doing a simple search. ;)

Oh... and this is for EVERYONE who's aim is to take the Christmas out of Christmas........

"MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!" :p

Ok, I just ordered a 4805.

Now, the screen.

Will be sitting roughly 11.5-13' ft from screen, room will be fairly dark @ night.

Thinking of 92".

Do I get Da-Lite HIgh Contrast Mat white or OPtoma Greywolf 92"?

I can get the Optoma Grey 92" model: DS-9092PM for about $100 shipped.

Whatcha think?


Help, have to order so I have in time for my 4805 :)
Thanks.

I always tell people not to buy a screen right away! Get the projector, try it out on the wall or a home made screen for a while, and get a feel for what works best for you and what size is perfect.

Ok, 4805 on way as well as Da-Lite HCMW 92".

WIll be using Laptop with DVI to watch DVD (will pixel map) ATI MObility X300, so will have to figure out settings for that.
HD cable via 35' compenent video cable.

XBOX (original) question.

Should I set the Xbox to 480i, connnect via HD pack and let 4805 upconvert or should I send it 480p from the XBOX.
XBOX will be games only, not DVD viewing.

Can't wait. Have my ND2 filter, cables and everything on the way!

Ok, 4805 on way as well as Da-Lite HCMW 92".

WIll be using Laptop with DVI to watch DVD (will pixel map) ATI MObility X300, so will have to figure out settings for that.
HD cable via 35' compenent video cable.

XBOX (original) question.

Should I set the Xbox to 480i, connnect via HD pack and let 4805 upconvert or should I send it 480p from the XBOX.
XBOX will be games only, not DVD viewing.

Can't wait. Have my ND2 filter, cables and everything on the way!

Let the xbox output 480p, 720p, 1080i if the game supports it. Games are rendered at those resolutions show there is no need for the 4805 to deinterlace those games with Faroudja. Faroudja is good for DVDs and SDTV because they are all 480i.

Thanks.

Now for DVD's with my Laptop, will be connecting with DVI.

If I use MP classic and use VMR9, do I need to get powerstrip or something to do the pixel mapping? Ialso have WinDVD 7.

Will a laptop be decent to use for this (none of my 5 pc's will be near the PJ, but my laptop is a new Compaq, 7200rpm drive, 1gb ram, 1.8ghz PM chip, Radeon mobility X300 card.

Have to use Xternal USB soundcard tho fo Optical out, but otherwise, I should be ok.

Thanks for everyone's help. Super excited to get set as you can imagine :)

Any info on settings for ATI mobility X300, Powerstrip, vmr9 and how to set up would be much appreciated.
BTW, is the projector being 2' behind my seating position a rpoblem? Projector 14 ft from screen, seating 11-12 ft.
Thanks.

Eight days before the 4805 Arrival!

Hi,

Now that I have my 4805 properly setup (I got it from BF deal), I seem to notice a problem with projector. Not sure if it has been discussed here before or not but here is what I notice:

Whenever I view dvd/hdtv programming, I notice that the projector will go blank and display "setting up image". It happens more often with hdtv signal than dvd, but it occurs on both. The projector will go blank for about 2-5 seconds before regaining back the signal. It happens interminnently and I cant really say what's causing it.

I've heard that there is issue with flickering on firmware 1.13 and thats what I have now, but I dont think this is flicker issue? My setup is currently using component cables from dvd and hdtv receiver to my onkyo receiver then the onkyo uses component to go to 4805. Is it firmware/hardware issue?

Hi,

Now that I have my 4805 properly setup (I got it from BF deal), I seem to notice a problem with projector. Not sure if it has been discussed here before or not but here is what I notice:

Whenever I view dvd/hdtv programming, I notice that the projector will go blank and display "setting up image". It happens more often with hdtv signal than dvd, but it occurs on both. The projector will go blank for about 2-5 seconds before regaining back the signal. It happens interminnently and I cant really say what's causing it.

I've heard that there is issue with flickering on firmware 1.13 and thats what I have now, but I dont think this is flicker issue? My setup is currently using component cables from dvd and hdtv receiver to my onkyo receiver then the onkyo uses component to go to 4805. Is it firmware/hardware issue?

Are you doing anything in particular that may cause the 4805 to resync? Some HD boxes will change resolutions when changing channels, the 4805 will resync when this happens. You may also be losing signal because of your cables.

Could also be the Onkyo momentarily not sending a signal. You may want to by-pass the Onkyo and go component straight to the 4805 and see if there are any issues. I have HDTV tuner to 4805 M1 and DVD player (which is also my receiver) to the 4805 via component and I do not have this issue.

In fact, I chose to have the 4805 do the switching and not my receiver because of fear of something like this and/or signal degredation.

Thanks for the feedback. Here is more details on the problem. I was watching Discovery HD and the signal would come and go interminnently (quite often actually). This is during the actual show, not when the commercial came up. You guys may be right when you say cable/receiver might be an issue.

For dvd, I'm running Radioshack component gold cable (9 ft) to onkyo receiver, then use python component 25ft to 4805. This setup is quite stable, but I still see "setting up image" sometimes with dvd signal. HDTV might be a cable issue, as I run a "temporary" original xbox hdtv/component cable from samsung hdtv receiver to onkyo. This is the first time I use receiver to do the component switching. Hopefully the cable is the culprit, otherwise I would have a hardtime switching signals back and forth.

I will try to switch the cable and see if things improve tonight.

Thanks again.

Hi,

Now that I have my 4805 properly setup (I got it from BF deal), I seem to notice a problem with projector. Not sure if it has been discussed here before or not but here is what I notice:

Whenever I view dvd/hdtv programming, I notice that the projector will go blank and display "setting up image". It happens more often with hdtv signal than dvd, but it occurs on both. The projector will go blank for about 2-5 seconds before regaining back the signal. It happens interminnently and I cant really say what's causing it.

I've heard that there is issue with flickering on firmware 1.13 and thats what I have now, but I dont think this is flicker issue? My setup is currently using component cables from dvd and hdtv receiver to my onkyo receiver then the onkyo uses component to go to 4805. Is it firmware/hardware issue?


So does this only happen when you change to a DVD source or HDTV channel from a SD channel or are you saying that in the middle of watching a HDTV program for example, it just resync's itself?

Autosource -

I know it's pretty lazy to ask but my setup makes it hard for me to test this...

Does the autosource work on all inputs? For instance if I had something plugged into composite, component and svideo and turned one on would the pj just switch to that and work?

Also what if I turn another on, does the pj then go to the newer one?

I was under the impression analogue sources can't be auto sourced.

--------

avsnewb360 as for your switching thing I don't think a show should switch res mid show. Mine certainly does this setting up image thing during channel changes if they are different res (ie going from 1080i to 720p) but even between programming and commercial a channel should not switch res.

If it happens with your DVD player and your Cable then it sounds like a cble or the pj, if it's only the cable then cross your fingers and hope it's the cable box, have it replaced.

I always tell people not to buy a screen right away! Get the projector, try it out on the wall or a home made screen for a while, and get a feel for what works best for you and what size is perfect.


This is some of the best advice I have seen on this thread. Listen to this man. If you don't you will end up with two screens or not what you really want.

A white queen size top sheet (bedding) works great till you get what you want.

I don't think most new and pre users really understand how TV and movies will be TOTALLLY DIFFERENT when shot on the wall.

I don't think most new and pre users really understand how TV and movies will be TOTALLLY DIFFERENT when shot on the wall.

I think it's kind of like having a baby, no matter how much people tell you, what it's like you don't know until you do.

I have a Dish 942 (HD PVR)

it's has a component and HDMI

on my 4805 .. component is use by DVD

Should I plug the HD PVR with a Component to M1 or HDMI to M1 ?

By the way .. I have 50' run

thanks.

I believe HDMI to M1 will keep it all digital and would prevent loss on that length run.

I have a Dish 942 (HD PVR)

it's has a component and HDMI

on my 4805 .. component is use by DVD

Should I plug the HD PVR with a Component to M1 or HDMI to M1 ?

By the way .. I have 50' run

thanks.

If you plan to keep the component DVD player with no plans to upgrade to an Oppo, Bravo, or HTPC (DVI players), then I say go with the HDMI and use the video dvi settings.

If a player change is in the future, then use component to M1, or get a component switcher.

Just finished first color wheel cleaning. Only at 50 hours, and was pretty murky looking. Not surprising considering the plastic charing on the bulb window, and general heat. I bought a nice little kit at my local Wolf camera for $4.99. Small bottle of coated lens safe cleaner fluid, some lens wipes, and a small brush attached to "air blowing bubble" for removing lens dust. Used the fluid and Q-tips, worked good. Anyone considering should check the Japhule's FAQ link for color wheel cleaning. I'll find out if there is a difference tonight.

I've seen lots on the Oppo here. What about the Sony DVP-NS70H or the Samsung DVD-HD941? Is there advantages with the Oppo that can't be used with either of these or even the Bravo2? Thanks in advance.

Misguided, delusional and annoying yes...wrong in this case, questionable.

A PERFECT color decoder? Thats kind of like a PERFECT woman isn't it? Would your really recommend someone purchase an ATI card of any type over Nvidia at the moment for video reproduction?

You've hurt my feelings so I'm going to stop posting and start watching movies for the rest of the holiday season. Here is just a snippet of supporting evidence for my statement. My jaggy image has PERFECT color however... (http://www.anandtech.com/printarticle.aspx?i=2551) While it deals mainly with decoding, I have not read anything, anywhere, by any publication, that ATI is currently superior to Nvidia when it comes to overall video quality. I'll break my own rule and question you and wait for some empirical data to support your claim..... :(

Merry Christmas

Like you said - the perfect woman always has some other flaw! Fact is I was unable to get perfect color decoding in blue only mode on the color bar test with the NVidia - not enough control fine tune. But the ATI at -42 was perfect.

More observations that have me questioning my eyes or my equipment.

After more playing around tonight, I found something that , to my eyes and a couple others, is making my image better. I know nobody recomends this, but gamma set to bright room 1 or even 2 unanimously looks better, as long as brightness is dropped down a couple notches from darker gamma settings.

I'm not into super plasma like brightness either. Everytime I adjust or semi calibrate a friends tv they always think its too dark.

One of my problems which I was having a hard time putting a finger on, is whites and bright blues have always been very bright(enough to want ND some times), but the rest of the picture, most noticeably everything in intermediate colors like grays and browns, even the sand in Phantom Menace, appeared dark/dingy, little shadow detail/ hard to see into dark scenes.( making me think twice about nd2). High gamma setting seems to have cured this. Eveything looks more realistic with more shades of gray and with more pop. BTB and contrast can still be set corectly in THX opti. Brightness is just a click or two lower, but grays are still brighter.

I know I should trust my eyes, and I will, but my inquiring mind wants to know whats going on when everyone else is probably using film setting. DVD player? Screen? Funky 4805?

Viewing conditions are :

No lights, white 12 ft. vaulted ceiling, some white walls( rear wall is at least 26 ft back and is 1/2 wood cabinets in kitchen. right wall is 12-16 feet from right of screen so it's not like I'm viewing in a small white box. I did try blocking the white ceiling to help perceived contrast, but it didn't help like switching gamma.

Screen is diy medium light gray. Definately gray, but not dark. Think of it like the Pixar opening screen which looks kinda white until the desk lamp jumps across and you realize it's not white. Between 65 and 80 in. wide. Watching Sopranos at 80" width with gamma in film looked dark and murky( too much).

White peeking 0 or 10.

Anyone got any ideas? Some kind of gray scale issue? Should I trust my and others eyes and stay with high gamma?

Thanks to everyone who has sugested some helpful tips so far.Hopefully my ramblings can help anyone with some similar problems, or at least help me figure out mine :) . For now, bright room 1 :eek: . Makes me want more for ambient viewing though. I can't imagine trying bigger than 80" wide in film gamma, or on top of that adding nd2. Bright whites are still hot though?

BTB and contrast can still be set corectly in THX opti. Brightness is just a click or two lowerPerhaps we are not on the same page semantics-wise. The "Brightness" control sets the BTB and the "Contrast " control sets the WTW.

Turning the "Brightness" down "a click or two" will collapse the blacks and greys together, eliminating detail in dark areas of the pix.

Anyone got any ideas? Some kind of gray scale issue? Should I trust my and others eyes and stay with high gamma?

Thanks to everyone who has sugested some helpful tips so far.Hopefully my ramblings can help anyone with some similar problems, or at least help me figure out mine :) . For now, bright room 1 :eek: . Makes me want more for ambient viewing though. I can't imagine trying bigger than 80" wide in film gamma, or on top of that adding nd2. Bright whites are still hot though?

You outta be able to leave it on FILM mode and use the THX Optimizer and get it within 99.9% of "totally" correct. If you can't - it may have a problem.

-W

A pixel-mapped Bravo has the better image.

Virtually all complaints with the Bravo have to do with non-PQ issues such as hangups, failure to read some disks, etc. Never with the PQ.

While I understand that some people get frustrated with a non-responsive unit, I do not believe in "throwing the baby out with the bathwater"!!

I have been buying and fixing Bravo players with excellent results and installing them for family and friends.

Changing one capacitor in the power supply solves 99% of the issues and keeping the unit cool the other 1%. New firmware allows it to be region-free and use custom output resolutions beyond the standard pixel-map of 852x480.

So ... it's no skin off my nose if people forgo PQ for convenience. If you have a Bravo you are unhappy with, PM me and I'll find it a home.

OTOH, if you want the simplest, cheapest and best PQ available then pick up a Bravo D1 or D2. Do not use a Bravo is you are not using digital connections with a fixed-pixel display! If you are using component connections, I whole-heartedly recommend the Oppo.

If you have the cash, the Momitsu and, particularily the SnaZio units seem nice.

If you have the cash, the time and OCD then build yourself an HTPC but remember to watch the thing occasionally! ;)


Cavu, what sort of gain might I expect if I am feeding my 4805 a quality interlaced signal over components with a decent player?

Is the differences/gains roughly the same as going from HDTV component to DVI ?

I think it's kind of like having a baby, no matter how much people tell you, what it's like you don't know until you do.
Except with a PJ you can always make the whining stop by simply shutting it off...

:p

Or getting the color wheel bearings fixed. :D

-W

Is the differences/gains roughly the same as going from HDTV component to DVI ?More akin to going from S-video to component.

Gamma will be dependent on your environment and your preferences and your sources. Leave brightness and contrast alone after proper calibration (THX/AVIA/DVE/S&V etc), make sure your sources have no gamma of their own. Generally if you have a dark walled dedicated theater you may prefer CRT - while a bright walled family room with a nitelight on may prefer a brighter gamma. That is what it is there for - the standard film of 2.2 gamma is assuming an environment. Of course if you use bright room gamma in a dark dedicated room - you are seeing more black detail than the director intended, and if you use CRT in a bright room - you are not seeing any black detail due to washout.

Well I finally got my 4805!!!! HD through satellite looks amazing sd not so good any suggestions to get a better picture my sat receiver is set to output 1080i. I am using component cables (rg6) 25 feet would dvi improve sd quality? I also need a new dvd player as my sony is 5 years old. I know this is a 480p pj but would a upscaling dvd player give me a better picture than a regular progressive player. I know this seems like a stupid question but hdtv looks so good I thought I would ask
Thanks for everyones help Wayne

Perhaps we are not on the same page semantics-wise. The "Brightness" control sets the BTB and the "Contrast " control sets the WTW.

Turning the "Brightness" down "a click or two" will collapse the blacks and greys together, eliminating detail in dark areas of the pix.


I should have said BTB and WTW can be set correctly in higher gamma settings. Brightness is a couple clicks lower than the film gamma setting to acheive proper BTB, but with a brighter THX gray logo.

I should try to find someone in the Triange area in NC that has a 4805 set up, and is willing to compare.
Anyone?
I could bring pizza and drinks. My girlfriend can bring a cute friend?
Yeah right :) The last thing any girlfriend wants to do is watch some tweaking of brightness, contast and gamma.

More akin to going from S-video to component.
So that is quite a leap....though I am not sure I believe it.

Got a cheap Bravo for sale? :)

I should have said BTB and WTW can be set correctly in higher gamma settings. Brightness is a couple clicks lower than the film gamma setting to acheive proper BTB, but with a brighter THX gray logo.


Gamma should have no effect on BTB/WTW calibration.

Gamma should have no effect on BTB/WTW calibration.

Interesing, I noticed that with the 3 middle settings. Between crt and bright 2 I think there were a couple clicks on the THX logo. With movies, I definately preferred a couple clicks lower brightness with brightroom 2 setting.

Well I finally got my 4805!!!! HD through satellite looks amazing sd not so good any suggestions to get a better picture my sat receiver is set to output 1080i. I am using component cables (rg6) 25 feet would dvi improve sd quality? I also need a new dvd player as my sony is 5 years old. I know this is a 480p pj but would a upscaling dvd player give me a better picture than a regular progressive player. I know this seems like a stupid question but hdtv looks so good I thought I would ask
Thanks for everyones help Wayne

Yes, indeed. I have a OTA HDTV tuner and it looks amazing including NFL games. On the other hand, I am not sure there is anyway to improve SD. I ofter hear garbage in, garbage out when exploring for answers. There may be a way to improve SD quality via adding some expensive HW to boost incoming signal, but I have not looked into it.

One thing though, I find that SD looks much better on the 4805 vs. a big screen LCD RP.

so, i'm watching a dvd and the image only fills half the screen (i.e. very wide and not high). is this anamorphic widescreen? should i just watch it like that? do i need some sort of a lense to use all the pixels?

also, when i hit "native" rez, the image is small (both width and height). what's the deal with that? i was watching "the island" on my sony ns50. other than this slight confusion, this thing is really amazing, and i don't even have it calibrated or have a screen for it yet.

intend to get a doable board from home depot and paint black borders and rs-mmmaxx (LL) on the board to fit a 16:9 92" image.

thanks

so, i'm watching a dvd and the image only fills half the screen (i.e. very wide and not high). is this anamorphic widescreen? should i just watch it like that? do i need some sort of a lense to use all the pixels?

also, when i hit "native" rez, the image is small (both width and height). what's the deal with that? i was watching "the island" on my sony ns50. other than this slight confusion, this thing is really amazing, and i don't even have it calibrated or have a screen for it yet.

intend to get a doable board from home depot and paint black borders and rs-mmmaxx (LL) on the board to fit a 16:9 92" image.

thanks

FAQ Section 7, questions 2 and 3.

If you are feeding the 4805 480i or 480p, native will show it in a 4:3 window as 480i is 720x480i (720x480p for 480p). For 480i/480p, leave the 4805 at 16:9 for widescreen movies.

thanks! your faq is very helpful; i've just been reading it, but you cleared things up for me that 480 is not widescreen. thanks. i'm feeding 480i via component and it looks lovely.

Have the various refurb deals lately been shipping with remotes for the 4805?

Have the various refurb deals lately been shipping with remotes for the 4805?

Yes, and new bulbs too. I still suspect that they were really new units with 90 day rather than 1 year warantees. I just don't see 6,000+ of these reliable and excellent units being refurbed.

I should try to find someone in the Triange area in NC that has a 4805 set up, and is willing to compare.
Anyone?


My daughter is in the triangle area. But my 4805 is in SC near Anderson... hehe

-W

Ja Phule

FAQ Section 3. General. ((Could not find info I need))

I want to make sure I'm doing my settings correctly:

OPPO DVD to 4805 via DVI: Native (Works great)

Here's what I'm wondering about.

TWC- Scientific Atlantic 3250HD Via Component to 4805.

TWC box has 4 choices: 480i,480p,720p & 1081i.

I use 720p & 1080i because when I change channels from SD to HD it works, If I select all four outputs on TWC box, when I change from HD-SD or SD-HD the picture is all a bunch of squiggly lines.

On 4805 I have set Aspect to '16:9' instead of 'Native' because Picture is bigger.

This seems to work for me....But I'm curious....Am I using the proper settings?

HH

Husker,
Section 3, yeah...havne't got to that part yet. :)

Oppo, use native if you have it on 720p or 1080i. 480p won't fill the screen at native.

I too am using the 3250 box. Personally I enable all settings. I'm guessing you are getting the squiggly lines because you are using the old firmware. The 4805 should automatically sync when going from SD to HD with the latest firmwares, or you can just press the auto image button. You can have either 16:9 or native for stations that are 720p/1080i. SDTV channels you should use 4:3 (unless you like the distorted image).

Husker,
Section 3, yeah...havne't got to that part yet. :)

Oppo, use native if you have it on 720p or 1080i. 480p won't fill the screen at native.

I too am using the 3250 box. Personally I enable all settings. I'm guessing you are getting the squiggly lines because you are using the old firmware. The 4805 should automatically sync when going from SD to HD with the latest firmwares, or you can just press the auto image button. You can have either 16:9 or native for stations that are 720p/1080i. SDTV channels you should use 4:3 (unless you like the distorted image).

Auto image doesn't work for me when faced with that problem..??

SDTV looks undistorted using my settings,,,But it does have the GREY bars on the side.

Do I need to update?

Software Version 1.0.2
Boot Version 1.3
OE 1.0

I know it's Propably in the FAQ but I need to add to my post count.... :rolleyes:

HH

Can anyone tell me the real-world differences between the Sony DVP-NS70H, Samsung DVD-HD941, Panasonic S97, Bravo 1 or 2? Are there advantages, features, or anythig else with the Oppo that aren't available or can't be achieved with any or all of these?
I have narrowed it down to these choices, but the decision is rather daunting without input from actual users or owners of the units. Thanks in advance for someone that can impress me with thier knowledge and expertise.
I would post this in the DVD section, but I will be using this with my 4805, so I would like an idea of which of these would work best in conjunction with the PJ, and it seems members here have a wide knowledge of the Oppo in particular.

Auto image doesn't work for me when faced with that problem..??

SDTV looks undistorted using my settings,,,But it does have the GREY bars on the side.

Do I need to update?

Software Version 1.0.2
Boot Version 1.3
OE 1.0

I know it's Propably in the FAQ but I need to add to my post count.... :rolleyes:

HH

:eek: I DO NEED TO UPDATE :eek:

HH

You can do it as long as you are using dvi. You cannot pixel map with vga.


So this means only a videocard with DVI out?

Not going Vga to DVI?

So this means only a videocard with DVI out?

Not going Vga to DVI?

DVI/HDMI only.

SO what would happen if I use a VGA to DVI cable and set it to output 854x480?

Well I finally got my 4805!!!! HD through satellite looks amazing sd not so good any suggestions to get a better picture my sat receiver is set to output 1080i. I am using component cables (rg6) 25 feet would dvi improve sd quality? I also need a new dvd player as my sony is 5 years old. I know this is a 480p pj but would a upscaling dvd player give me a better picture than a regular progressive player. I know this seems like a stupid question but hdtv looks so good I thought I would ask
Thanks for everyones help Wayne

Please help I want to buy a new dvd soon thanks

Can anyone tell me the real-world differences between the Sony DVP-NS70H, Samsung DVD-HD941, Panasonic S27, Bravo 1 or 2? Are there advantages, features, or anything else with the Oppo that aren't available or can't be achieved with any or all of these?I'll speak only to the two Bravo units. Others will speak for the rest.
The Bravos are the only ones mentioned which can 1:1 pixel map. << (That's a PERIOD at the end of the sentence!) They do 852x480 pixel map out-of-the-box with Infocus' standard DVI/M1-DA cable. No adapters.

Bob Williams (Infocus SP4805 design engineer) uses the D1 as his reference source. With Bob's RGB Gain and Offset numbers (which he determined using a D1 as the source), you do not have to touch any of the other adjustments on the 4805.

The D2 has some improvements over the D1, but the 852x480 DVI PQ is identical. The D2 has an improved loader, Brightness, Contrast and Saturation controls, improved Component video and a new remote ... it's a better machine but the DVI PQ is the same. The component output is "less crappy".

If you are not intending to 1:1 pixel map, choose a different player!! The Bravo D1 works fine if not allowed to overheat (keep ventilated) but can have some issues and has a less than spectacular remote control. The D1 power supply has a capacitor which may go leaky and cause hangups, slow loading, etc. The $2 part can be replaced by any technically competent person if and when necessary. Replace 1000uf C1022.

Plus, the DVD section is listed as standard def, and it seems members here have a wide knowledge of the Oppo in particular.All the DVD players you are discussing are standard def.

would dvi improve sd quality?Probably not.

would a upscaling dvd player give me a better picture than a regular progressive player.No. And unless you are getting a DVD player with a Faroudja deinterlacer (or better, whatever that might be) you should feed the SP4805 with a 480i source signal, not progressive. (Unless you want to 1:1 pixel map for the best PQ in which case you should review the previous message (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6741834&&#post6741834)!! ;) )

Please help I want to buy a new dvd soon thanks

You might want to check out this thread.

SD DirecTV to HTPC? (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=611601)


I don't have the HDTV Directv setup but I have questioned the same thing about my DTivo with Directv. I think I am going to try to setup a HTPC.

Geno I have another version of that case and I think you will be happy with it. Only pain is the cover mounting screws are on the bottom, and not the back like most cases. It's so so on the quite scale because of the two small fans, but if you go with a quite cpu cooler you will be good.


I couldn't find any cases on your website (I assume that is what you meant.) Perhaps you could send me a link or something. TigerDirect sold out of the case I wanted. Any suggestions you may have would be awesome.

Hello, I am trying some PC games on my new 4805. The problem I'm running into is with the resolution at the PC set to 848x480 and games that you can set the resolution in the games options, there is no 848x480 setting. The game does not use the resolution I set for the desktop. Any ideas how to fix this?

Thanks

Can anyone tell me the real-world differences between the Sony DVP-NS70H, Samsung DVD-HD941, Panasonic S27, Bravo 1 or 2? Are there advantages, features, or anythig else with the Oppo that aren't available or can't be achieved with any or all of these?
I have narrowed it down to these choices, but the decision is rather daunting without input from actual users or owners of the units. Thanks in advance for someone that can impress me with thier knowledge and expertise.
I would post this in the DVD section, but I will be using this with my 4805, so I would like an idea of which of these would work best in conjunction with the PJ. Plus, the DVD section is listed as standard def, and it seems members here have a wide knowledge of the Oppo in particular.

Not sure about the Samsung HD 941, but I could not get a Samsung DVD HD945 to work with my 4805. All I got was a blue screen. I think it was an HDCP issue. The player thought it was bing copied... and shuts off the video signal. I ended up returning it. I really gave it a shot.

My new Bravo D2 works great. The D2 drive motor is a bit loud though.

Good luck

DenM3

My new Bravo D2 works great. Congrats on the new player! Did you find it on eBay? Combien $$ ?

Are you using 852x480 on DVI w/Bob William's numbers?

Does the PQ live up to my hype? ;)

The problem I'm running into is with the resolution at the PC set to 848x480 and games that you can set the resolution in the games options, there is no 848x480 setting.Are you using DVI or VGA?

Looking to get the DVI-D to M1 cable from Monoprice.com for connection of Motorola DCT6412 to the 4805. Is this the one I want?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10238&cs_id=1023801&p_id=2502&seq=1&format=2&style=

I only ask because there was a DVD-I cable as well. Thanks in advance.

Looking to get the DVI-D to M1 cable from Monoprice.com for connection of Motorola DCT6412 to the 4805. Is this the one I want?That'll do just fine. Great price!! Don't forget to set the RGB Gains and Offsets to 58 and 28.5 respectively!

Making any progress on the DVD player front?

the screen will roll down in a walkway so i need it to roll up when not in use, and not become wavy after many ups and downs

my ceiling is about 7.5ft, and i will ceiling mount (have the mount). my max distance is 13.5ft which infocus tells me i could manage a 106" image with zoom.

i've been running my 4805 in a different config, with a 92" screen and it is nice, but i wouldn't turn down an extra 14". but.....if y'all think i should avoid the zoom (or at least avoid using all of it), and go with a 92" screen, i'd consider it.

also, i'd like to avoid keystone and i like where the image sits without any tiling; but that is about a foot under my lense (which is about 4" from the ceiling) so the image is at about 16" lower than my cieling. thus, i'm not sure if i have to hang a roll-down screen from some cord to get it low enough?

anyway, i was looking at optoma graywolf and others. i REALLY don't want to spend much, so i'm looking for a budget deal on this.

buy.com has the 106" graywolf at $165 or so, but it's out of stock.

suggestions????? please help me it with exactly what to get and where to get it

also, the room will be completely light controlled most of the time, and i'll definitely run the 4805 in low-power mode (how could anyone EVER stand the noise of highpower mode????)

my only two sources are my sony ns50 dvdplayer (component 480i) and my xbox360 (vga>m1). i'll probably be using the xbox al little more than the dvdplayer, but they'll be pretty even in usage

Not sure how you would avoid the screen from getting wavy. Most pull-down/pull-up would suffer from that to some extent. The 92" is considered the best diag. length. Going bigger may cause lost of detail or wash out colors (not sure, went with the 92" from the get go).

so a few pages back I was asking if anyone knew whether it was possible to project thru glass, and what the effect on the image would be, well I finally got around to trying it this weekend.

I had a thin, clear piece from a door in an armoir I was dismantling. Right of the bat, there is no discernable change in image quality. In fact, you can run the glass in and out of the beam and you would'nt even know it was there if it weren't for the shadows from the edge. Then, after a few minutes, I swear the image improved with the glass in place. It seemed to lessen the screen door effect ever so slightly, and soften the image slightly as well. you never know untill you try.

That'll do just fine. Great price!! Don't forget to set the RGB Gains and Offsets to 58 and 28.5 respectively!

Making any progress on the DVD player front?
I just got the 15 foot version of that same cable from Monoprice. If you haven't shopped there yet, I highly recommend checking them out. They have unbeatable prices on cables and related items.

so a few pages back I was asking if anyone knew whether it was possible to project thru glass, and what the effect on the image would be, well I finally got around to trying it this weekend.

I had a thin, clear piece from a door in an armoir I was dismantling. Right of the bat, there is no discernable change in image quality. In fact, you can run the glass in and out of the beam and you would'nt even know it was there if it weren't for the shadows from the edge. Then, after a few minutes, I swear the image improved with the glass in place. It seemed to lessen the screen door effect ever so slightly, and soften the image slightly as well. you never know untill you try.

that would make sense due to some diffraction of the light. I think the same actually happens (plus more) with an ND2 filter thus SDE is reduced.

MCES,
If you have the horsepower to run the game at 1280x720 then run it at that resoultion. The 4805 will recognize it as 720p.

Man, I am nearly abusing my 4805 like I did my old X1 ....I got it on Black Friday and have about 200 hours on it already.

Hi Def is just killer....I am not sure why anyone would want a ND2 filter though..I shoot just a 6' wide screen and use Da-Lite High Power fabric to boot...granted my angles are no where near the 2.8 gain mark though.

I love basking my eyes in the brightness. :D

I am not sure why anyone would want a ND2 filter though..I shoot just a 6' wide screen and use Da-Lite High Power fabric to boot...granted my angles are no where near the 2.8 gain mark though.

I love basking my eyes in the brightness. :D

That's because you're using it as one big assed plasma TV. :)
No problem, but the trained theater types will tell you that it's WAY too much light.

-W

I bought the nd2 filter and have my 4805 on way with a 92" Da Lite spectra 1.5 screen coming as well.

I will be projecting from about 14-15' back and sitting around 13.

Should I def be using the ND2 in low power mode?

That's because you're using it as one big assed plasma TV. :)
No problem, but the trained theater types will tell you that it's WAY too much light.

-W

lol, yep its just like a plasma...a damn good one to boot. :D

What N2D part number are you guys buying? I'll buy one just to try out.

Hoya HMC Filter Multi-coated 62mm (HOND2MC62)

Are you using DVI or VGA?

Yes I am using DVI to M-1.

MCES,
If you have the horsepower to run the game at 1280x720 then run it at that resoultion. The 4805 will recognize it as 720p.

The game is running at 1280x720 on the 4805. But is'nt this defeating the whole idea of pixel mapping for the best picture quality.

By the way it looks very good at the 1280x720.

Anyone had a look at the pq of the new InFocus 720p model yet?

Yeah but pixel mapping a pc game to the 4805 makes it look bad. I tried running hl2 at that the native resolution and it was SOOOOOOOO jagged even with antialising cranked up. I don't quite understand how 720p to the 4805 reduces aliasing since it is scaled but it does.

Uziah,

Any chance you want to do a diy screen? There are a couple guys doing diy roll ups in the diy screen section. They're using BOC or even painted vinyl. I think the boc and maybe thin flexible vinyl would lay fairly flat with some weight at the bottom. Cheap, but it will take some design effort. Both are available at Jo Ann fabrics or similar fabric stores.

The game is running at 1280x720 on the 4805. But is'nt this defeating the whole idea of pixel mapping for the best picture quality.

By the way it looks very good at the 1280x720.

Pixel mapping is the best quality picture only if the source cannot provide more actual data.

For instance a DVD can never provide more actual information than the 854x480, so showing a higher resolution simply means somewhere along the line something has to guess what the extra dots should be made up of.

With a PC game you can actually provide more real data, thus nothing is guessing what should be there, but rather doing it's best to represent it with fewer dots.

So if you have 4 pixels of info and you show it using 16 pixels it doesn't matter. But if could somehow get 16 pixels of info, even if you only have 4 to show it all the better because you are essentially doing anti aliasing: rendering at a higher resolution and then showing at a lower one.

Yeah but pixel mapping a pc game to the 4805 makes it look bad. I tried running hl2 at that the native resolution and it was SOOOOOOOO jagged even with antialising cranked up. I don't quite understand how 720p to the 4805 reduces aliasing since it is scaled but it does.

It's not pixel mapping that makes it look bad, its just running it at such a low resolution that does it.

If you pixel mapped at 1024x768 it would look pretty good.

Anti aliasing can help get rid of jaggies but at a very low resolution it just doesn't have much to work with. And remember anti aliasing creates info that can't really be displayed, so instead of getting jaggy stair steps, you get fuzzier averages of what the jaggy stair steps would have been.

Pixel mapping is the best quality picture only if the source cannot provide more actual data.

Thankyou for the detailed explanation, you explained it perfectly.

Hello, I was wondering if any Canadians have purchased a refurbished 4805 online. I assume you lose your warranty, but the big electronic stores have them for twice as much, so I would think it would still be a better deal even if you had to replace the bulb. Also, would anyone know how much duty would be for such a purchase?

Thanks.

Not sure about the Samsung HD 941, but I could not get a Samsung DVD HD945 to work with my 4805. All I got was a blue screen. I think it was an HDCP issue. The player thought it was bing copied... and shuts off the video signal. I ended up returning it. I really gave it a shot.

My new Bravo D2 works great. The D2 drive motor is a bit loud though.

Good luck

DenM3

i had no problems with my samsund hd 841 with my 4805. removed the hdcp though.

Congrats on the new player! Did you find it on eBay? Combien $$ ?

Are you using 852x480 on DVI w/Bob William's numbers?

Does the PQ live up to my hype? ;)


got it from www.asiachi.com. It was a floor model that had two hours time on it. They lived up to their promise!

Only you all would apprecite this..

I called the guy in L.A and asked him if he had any left. He says "I have one floor model"... and then says "you know, I had over 200 of these a while back and I could not even sell one. Then somebody says they have the best picture quality...and I literally shipeed all of them out in two days"

Have not really had time to fool with the player. Will report back.

DenM3

Not sure about the Samsung HD 941, but I could not get a Samsung DVD HD945 to work with my 4805. All I got was a blue screen. I think it was an HDCP issue. The player thought it was bing copied... and shuts off the video signal. I ended up returning it. I really gave it a shot.

My new Bravo D2 works great. The D2 drive motor is a bit loud though.

Good luck

DenM3




Just wanted to add that my connection was HDMI/DVI/M1

How often is everyone using thier projectors? Daily, couple times a week? Does striking the bulb really equal around 2 hours of bulb life?

I use mine daily, I got it this past summer and have over 900 hours on the bulb. I use it for everything. SD is not the greatest on the big screen, but I can live with it. But, DVD and HD are outstanding. Can not still comprehend how wonderful it is. I have friends coming out of the woodwork. I am to the point where I tell people at times that the game is not in HD so that I do not have to play host.

Oh, I love my PS2 on it. I have even played xbox on it and it is sweet too.

Go Bengals, playoffs are back in the Queen City...

Hello, I was wondering if any Canadians have purchased a refurbished 4805 online. I assume you lose your warrantyWhy earth would you lose the warranty??!!

I have bought ten units from the States (new & refurb) ... so far ... for friends and family. (I bought an extra bulb for my 4805 and it had a projector attached for only $160 more!! ;) I bought the added 1-year warranty on the new bulb for $89 - I have put 2,200 hrs on mine since June.)

We have had no problems with Infocus or warranty support! The sole problem we have encountered so far was a sometimes noisy colour wheel which they have offered to replace. They have warranty service depots (http://www.duocom.ca/duocom.cfm) in both Montreal and Vancouver.

We have had no problems with Infocus or warranty support! The sole problem we have encountered so far was a sometimes noisy colour wheel which they have offered to replace. They have warranty service depots in both Montreal and Vancouver.

I just read somewhere that you lose the warranty if you purchase it through the U.S. Thanks for the help, I would have bought one without the warranty so this is great news.

I just read somewhere that you lose the warranty if you purchase it through the U.S. Thanks for the help, I would have bought one without the warranty so this is great news.Sorry .. I missed your question on duty.

There is none.

You only pay GST and PST (or HST).

No brokerage charge if you ship by the USPS (10 days <$30) or FEDEX one or two day express (~$170-240).

You pay a flat CD$22 for brokerage if you ship by FEDEX ground (1 week ~$30).

DO NOT - DO NOT - DO NOT ship by UPS!! They are crooks. They will lose or damage the shipment and charge you CD$35-65 to clear it.

WARNING! THIS APPLIES TO EVERYBODY!! You will not get warranty unless an Infocus projector is purchased from an Infocus authorized reseller!!! Be very careful about eBay. Phone Infocus to check the reseller and the serial number before you buy. My very first unit was stolen from the Infocus warehouse and I had to use Paypal claim to get money back!

I bought the nd2 filter and have my 4805 on way with a 92" Da Lite spectra 1.5 screen ... Should I def be using the ND2 in low power mode?
Absolutely!! With a 1.5 gain screen the image brightness is going to be 36fL in low power (45 in high power)!! It's going to be bright even with an ND2 filter.

Received my ND2 today, now just need PJ, Screen cables, mount.

I do not have total light control until night time and the 4805 will be 15' back, so figuring the extar brightness won't hurt.

the 4805 will be 15' back, so figuring the extar brightness won't hurt.The throw distance of the projector makes no difference - only the area of the thrown image.

Question. How do I determine the warranty of my projector? I thought registering it would tell me but it didn't. I'm just a little curious as the projector I received from the BF deal does not have a remanufactured serial # or rather that the serial # does not have RE at the end of it that is to determine it has been refurbished..... acording to Infocus website.

So this begs the ?, if the projector does not have a serial# indicating that it is refurbished, and is indeed not( as some have suggested and I would tend to agree) then would that mean that I'm intitled to the full warranty of the projector.

Or perhaps its just wishful thinking on my part. Anybody else notice there serials?

Question. How do I determine the warranty of my projector?It's really simple. After you have registered your projector with them, phone Infocus Tech Support and ask them "What date does my warranty expire?" They will ask for your serial number.

WRITE DOWN THE ANSWER AND TAPE IT TO THE BOTTOM OF YOUR PROJECTOR.

Don't ask "How long is the warranty?"; don't ask "Is this new or refurb?". The answer to the first question above will tell you everything.

Has anyone noticed any deinterlacing problems using the Faroudja on the 4805? I started to watch Cold Mountain on my interlaced dvd player via component tonight but noticed serious artifacts. I then played the disc on my computer with cyberlink software via vga to the 4805 and it looked fine. It seems like the 4805 deinterlacer has serious trouble with this disc. This is a first; so far everything else has looked great. Slightly off topic but it's really amazing how much more you see with a larger picture. Has anyone compiled any lists of good and bad dvd transfers?

For me so far:

Crappy:
March of the penguins
star wars ep. I
2010

Good:
batman begins
incredibles
2001: digitally restored version

Does the picture from the 4805 change after a few hours (like a break-in period? ). I t seems like the picture and colors have changed (for the better). Am I just imagining things, or is this a known phenomenon? My PJ/lamp is now at 50 hrs.

It seems like the picture and colors have changed (for the better).I think its probably more that you have adjusted to it. It sometimes takes a bit of time for one's expectations to adjust and you begin to appreciate accurate colours, great colour temperature and tracking and the solid blacks. IMHO.

Has anyone noticed any deinterlacing problems using the Faroudja on the 4805? I started to watch Cold Mountain on my interlaced dvd player via component tonight but noticed serious artifacts. I then played the disc on my computer with cyberlink software via vga to the 4805 and it looked fine. It seems like the 4805 deinterlacer has serious trouble with this disc. This is a first; so far everything else has looked great. Slightly off topic but it's really amazing how much more you see with a larger picture. Has anyone compiled any lists of good and bad dvd transfers?

For me so far:

Crappy:
March of the penguins
star wars ep. I
2010

Good:
batman begins
incredibles
2001: digitally restored version

Are you sure it's the Faroudja deinterlacing that's causing the problems or is it your dvd player (or even dvd) that's bad. If anything, I would first make sure you done proper picture calibrations using a calibration dvd such as AVIA, Digital Video Essentials, or even THX Optimode. If you haven't done any calibration, it's possible you may have your brightness/contrast off which can crush blacks or makes dithering more noticeable.

Are you sure it's the Faroudja deinterlacing that's causing the problems or is it your dvd player (or even dvd) that's bad. If anything, I would first make sure you done proper picture calibrations using a calibration dvd such as AVIA, Digital Video Essentials, or even THX Optimode. If you haven't done any calibration, it's possible you may have your brightness/contrast off which can crush blacks or makes dithering more noticeable.

PJ is calibrated with DVE and looks fantastic with everything else. No noise reduction, no chroma, no luma, sharpening @ standard. It looks similar to the ghosting you would see on a slow lcd monitor. Any time there is motion, you see streaking around the moving object.

Thanks

PJ is calibrated with DVE and looks fantastic with everything else. No noise reduction, no chroma, no luma, sharpening @ standard. It looks similar to the ghosting you would see on a slow lcd monitor. Any time there is motion, you see streaking around the moving object.

Thanks

If some movies look good and other movies not as good, then it sounds like a problem with the source dvd. I haven't seen march of the penguins but I just looked up a review from dvdtalk.com and it talks about noise and murkiness (along with some other issues) in some scenes. Episode 1 isn't perfect either (ie Tatooine scenes are grainy).

If some movies look good and other movies not as good, then it sounds like a problem with the source dvd. I haven't seen march of the penguins but I just looked up a review from dvdtalk.com and it talks about noise and murkiness (along with some other issues) in some scenes. Episode 1 isn't perfect either (ie Tatooine scenes are grainy).
March of the Penguins was a subpar transfer (great movie though -- if you ever feel like you have it hard, rent this).

Question. How do I determine the warranty of my projector? I thought registering it would tell me but it didn't. I'm just a little curious as the projector I received from the BF deal does not have a remanufactured serial # or rather that the serial # does not have RE at the end of it that is to determine it has been refurbished..... acording to Infocus website.

So this begs the ?, if the projector does not have a serial# indicating that it is refurbished, and is indeed not( as some have suggested and I would tend to agree) then would that mean that I'm intitled to the full warranty of the projector.

Or perhaps its just wishful thinking on my part. Anybody else notice there serials?

I have a BF model also. No RE at the end of serial #, but when I called infocus it shows up as a refurb. Mine was a send back from a distributor or something like that.
Most likely wishfull thinking on the full waranty, nice thought though.

If you want to be on hold for 10 minutes or so, you could call them and maybe get lucky. The guy I talked to was a little surprised that mine didn't have the RE designation, and kind of chastised me for not writing it down on the serial # registration. When I said mine didn't have the RE he was a little surprised.

Has anyone noticed any deinterlacing problems using the Faroudja on the 4805?

For me so far:

Crappy:
March of the penguins
star wars ep. I
2010

Good:
batman begins
incredibles
2001: digitally restored version



I'm not quite sure yet. I'm running interlaced component also. I have noticed some movies that I thought would look good don't. Episode 1 and even 2 are downright disapointing sometimes. They look dull and soft, almost out of focus a little, and dark?

On the other hand, some older movies like Alien (aniversary ed.) look spectacular.
Saving Private Ryan and Episode 4 ( aka original Star Wars) look like high def in comparison.

I'm also thinking, alot of the movies that look good are older film based movies. Maybe something in my chain is haveing trouble with flags, or recognizing, or deinterlacing? In 480i that would be the Faroudja, or is the dvd player still responsible for sorting some things out? Maybe I should just get used to 50% of movies looking crappy.

If you haven't done any calibration, it's possible you may have your brightness/contrast off which can crush blacks or makes dithering more noticeable.

Even with proper THX contrast and brightness, I'm still seeing dithering in the gray THX logo on the btb settup screen. Looks like crawling bugs. I'm at 2x width also.
My stong eye is 20/15 or better though.

I'm not quite sure yet. I'm running interlaced component also. I have noticed some movies that I thought would look good don't. Episode 1 and even 2 are downright disapointing sometimes. They look dull and soft, almost out of focus a little, and dark?

On the other hand, some older movies like Alien (aniversary ed.) look spectacular.
Saving Private Ryan and Episode 4 ( aka original Star Wars) look like high def in comparison.

There will always be dithering in DLP. You should set BTB where it stops dithering, the shades of gray above BTB will dither still and its normal to see them. When watching movies, you usually don't notice the dithering depending on the scene.

I'm also thinking, alot of the movies that look good are older film based movies. Maybe something in my chain is haveing trouble with flags, or recognizing, or deinterlacing? In 480i that would be the Faroudja, or is the dvd player still responsible for sorting some things out? Maybe I should just get used to 50% of movies looking crappy.

The Faroudja in the 4805 does the deinterlacing and scaling, the mpeg decoder in your dvd player also plays an important role in decoding the dvd to be outputted and processed by the 4805.

Dithering will always be there on DLP, when calibrating, you want to adjust brightness until BTB is not dithering and is the same as the background. The shades of gray will still be dithering and that is normal, only most people (who don't have 20/15 vision) don't notice it when watching non grayscale scenes.

I've mentioned this before and I'll go ahead and mention it again... I've seen many people come on avs thinking there is something wrong with their set up because Pirates of the Carribean looks like crap, and that's because the dvd looks like crap. :)

Ja,

Thanks for chiming in. Would you agree that Ep. 1 looks bad compared to Ep. 4? If so, Ep. 1 goes from only 50% crap due to content, to 99% crap. The 1% is because the pod race scene sounds cool :)

I have noticed some issues with the farudja deinterlacing some sceens, often those of high contrast. If you watch expisode VI when C3P0 is walking around in the tunnels of Jabas lair lots of times I can see the interlacing issues in the highlights on him... it has happened other times as well and I was surprised.

I have been busy lately but hopefuly some time I will be able to compile a list of when those happen. Fotunately I can either use my HTPC or just turn on XBMC in my Xbox and watch in 480p there (XBMC can upscale to 1080i and 720p so I am playing around with those options).

Are there discrete codes for Preset 1 / 2 / 3 ?

My Comcast 8300HD DVR and the Oppo require different presets on the Infocus. It would be nice to create a macro (I use a JP1 friendly remote) that would switch to the correct preset when switching my receiver from one input to the other.

Thanks.

Max

Ja,

Thanks for chiming in. Would you agree that Ep. 1 looks bad compared to Ep. 4? If so, Ep. 1 goes from only 50% crap due to content, to 99% crap. The 1% is because the pod race scene sounds cool :)

Haven't watched those movies in awhile, but I don't tend to look for these issues as I'm usually engulfed into the movies.

Has anyone noticed any deinterlacing problems using the Faroudja on the 4805? I started to watch Cold Mountain on my interlaced dvd player via component tonight but noticed serious artifacts. I then played the disc on my computer with cyberlink software via vga to the 4805 and it looked fine. It seems like the 4805 deinterlacer has serious trouble with this disc. This is a first; so far everything else has looked great. Slightly off topic but it's really amazing how much more you see with a larger picture. Has anyone compiled any lists of good and bad dvd transfers?

For me so far:

Crappy:
March of the penguins
star wars ep. I
2010

Good:
batman begins
incredibles
2001: digitally restored version


I think I need to clarify this a bit. The short list above was regarding transfer quality and not necessarily related to deinterlacing. I didn't notice any deinterlacing issues with the above dvds. The dvds above are categorized (in my opinion) purely in terms of how accurately the film was transfered to dvd. 2010 was almost vhs quality.

Cold Mountain is a bad transfer too, but even worse was how the 4805 handled the deinterlacing. As I said earlier, I played the dvd back on my pc using the Cyberlink Powerdvd deinterlacer and the deinterlacing issue was gone, all that was left was the bad transfer :rolleyes:

So if anyone has a copy of Cold Mountain to test it would be interesting if the same problem crops up :)

Well, while we are on DVD topics, I rented War of the Worlds, and I thought the DVD transfer sucked. It's almost as if they wanted it to have that 80s look (if you know what I mean).

Sisyphus, why in the hell were you watching Cold Mountain anyway?

Ep. 1 does indeed look like crap. The Bourne Supremacy looked like crap as well.

Irritating isn't it?

Well, while we are on DVD topics, I rented War of the Worlds, and I thought the DVD transfer sucked. It's almost as if they wanted it to have that 80s look (if you know what I mean).

Yeah, I watched this recently too, and I thought something may have been wrong at first, but I guess it was intended that way. The sound effects was great though.

Are there discrete codes for Preset 1 / 2 / 3 ?

My Comcast 8300HD DVR and the Oppo require different presets on the Infocus. It would be nice to create a macro (I use a JP1 friendly remote) that would switch to the correct preset when switching my receiver from one input to the other.

Thanks.

Max


There is a 4805 rmdu file that should have this.

EFC - 084
OBC - 44
Hex - cb

Since the above is a toggle, you may need to learn the discrete codes, however I am not sure how you would do that.

If you only have two sources, then what would be good is if one of the user presets can be removed and your macro could just toggle between two presets automatically after an initial sync.

The Bourne Supremacy looked like crap as well.The 1080i HDTV version is very dark and grainy as well. I assumed this was by design.

hello all can anyone tell me if you should set RGB Gains and Offsets to 58 and 28.5
with a componate cable [red, green ,blue] or is it a differant setting for this cable

Hey guys , i have the screenplay 4805 projector and I have been told by a friend on the internet that if you use dvi , its better for even dvd watching than component is ?

Is this true ?

Ive read that if your not planing on using a computer with it then dvi doenst relaly matter

I was also telling this person how i noticed a significant change going from composite video to component cables on the 4805 and He said that I would probably experience that same feeling when I see the change of dvi

He also referred this dvd player
http://www.oppodigital.com/?partner=711

i have read that there is a big difference using a 720 p projector but have not read or heard about the 4805

No for component, Those numbers are for DVI output by a dvd player. The gains and offsets should all be at 50 for component input.

Those numbers are for DVI output by a dvd player.Also HDMI output players. And DVI/HDMI output on most, if not all, cable boxes! The Motorola units for sure.

im wanting to order that dvd player this week and hurry to get it in , if the picture will be more worth it


can you guys pleas give your input on it

Also HDMI output players. And DVI/HDMI output on most, if not all, cable boxes! The Motorola units for sure.

What about HDTV (ATSC) tuners?

Are there discrete codes for Preset 1 / 2 / 3 ?

My Comcast 8300HD DVR and the Oppo require different presets on the Infocus. It would be nice to create a macro (I use a JP1 friendly remote) that would switch to the correct preset when switching my receiver from one input to the other.

Thanks.

Max
I was not able to find any discrete codes for the presets (the JP1 rmdu was likely the one I did) although I did find some additional commands like "freeze", "keystone" and "volume".

zaphod7501, what remote are you using?

We got the standard Infocus "Director" remote with all of our units, but the last one has the Infocus "Navigator" included instead.

Infocus lists the Director at $24 but the Navigator at $59 !! But I don't think I much like it.

Which remote have y'all received??