im wanting to order that dvd player this week and hurry to get it in , if the picture will be more worth it


can you guys pleas give your input on it

I guess it depends on what you are using now. My vote would be for well-tuned, pixel-mapped HTPC.

But, if you are looking for something nice for Christmas, I don't think you could go wrong at all with an M1/DVI cable and brand new Oppo. ;)

zaphod7501, what remote are you using?
I have about 10 URC6131's for regular use (JP1 modified - I'm a TV & Camcorder servicer; 5 in use 5 for spares). I have a URC8910 for learning and diagnostics plus a couple of other modified remotes (RCA & URC6012)

Since I get various items in for repair, I can sometimes build JP1 upgrades for odd devices by learning and uploading. Since most of my system lacked built-in codes, I had to go the JP1 route to eliminate stacks of remotes. Even the built-in codes that worked were missing functions or had mis-mapped keys. I have 18 devices set up in the remote and about 10 startup macros. (on a $20 remote)

zaphod7501,
I have the URC 9911. I too, am interested in having the setup code for the 4805, but I don't use the JP1, I just usually call OneForAll and they do the upgrade over the phone though a modem. When I get the main basic code, I then teach the thing to do whatever I need it to with the learning function. If I find the main code, I'll PM it to you.

Well after much reading here and looking at what seems to be endless info on the 4805, I just recieved mine last night and I must say WOW!

I was this . close to purchasing a SP5000 until I ran across this site.

A few days ago I picked up a 92" GreyWolf screen and had it installed that night with no projector. Yesturday my projector arrived but the mount is suppose to be here today. I could not stand it anylonger so I fired that baby up by setting it on a table.

Wow! This thing is amazing for the price! I have a finished basement with dimmers on the lights. I am able to raise the lights to about 1/3 without any picture loss. My seating works out great for the Greywolf.

I am coming from a 31" CRT that is 8 years old.

This combo totally blows away the equipment displayed in the instore demo rooms that we have at the local BB store. Their systems are three times the price of this one and about 1/4 the quality of picture.

WOW thanks everyone for the info!

Brian Chesteen

Congrats Brantel!

Mine is suppose dto arrive next week along with my Da-Lite Spectra 92" tripod screen (no wall to mount on).
I am getting pretty excited, sit 13' back from a 32"4:3 TV now and is just too far away for a small screen being that I am soo near sighted.

Took the wife and son to a B like store this weekend and my wife (who 2 weeks ago HATED Front Porhections setups) really liked the ones in the store (with MUCH ambient light). I told her ours was going to look much better, so now she is excited too :-)

Let us know how the tweaking goes.

I finally got my 4805 back from Infocus Repair yesterday, that I purchased on the BF and was DOA. It looks great! I had the X1 setup and I swapped it with the 4805. Instant noticeable difference even with the lights on. I report back after some tweaking. I will be in NYC tomorrow with the Girlfriend doing Broadway. So I will not probably be able to play with it until I get back. Plus I need to pick up a DVI cable.

I am using the Radio Shack Component Switcher. I like this one mainly for the Dual Output. It has 4 Component Input, 4 Stereo Inputs, and 4 Optical Inputs. What are you guys using?

I need some suggestions for a video card. I will use it mainly for my HTPC, MCE 2005, Movie watching mainly, and some gaming(not hardcore, I save that for the consoles). I was thinking of a midlevel card like Nvidia 6600GT. Before all the flames, I know this is not the HTPC. But I like to know what the 4805 guys are using.

I feel like I am in the game now I got my 4805 instead of sitting on the sideline watching from the stands.

I just received a 4805 that will soon be installed in a client's theater room.

I have set up many low cost LCD's in the past and I was suprised at what this little DLP unit put out.

The fan noise is very low and the black levels are nice, not great but very nice in low power mode.

I don't like the throw distance on the unit, but you can't expect much from a low cost unit, to begin with. Overall I am very inpressed in this unit. This projector was bought direct from InFocus as a refurbished unit for well under a grand and was worth every penny.

It's going into a client's house who has never had a screen bigger than 40", so I take it that he will be very impressed also.

Good to see another Philadelphian here!!

What specifically was the issue with throw distance?

I'm a CRT guy.

You have to put the fixed lense LCD's and CRT's far back in the room to get a picture larger than the recommended 80 or so inches.

The higher priced units can set up in a smaller room, at least the ones that I have set up already.

Ok, taht actuall yworks to my advantage as my 4805 will be a good 14' back from my 92" screen.

How often is everyone using thier projectors? Daily, couple times a week? Does striking the bulb really equal around 2 hours of bulb life?

Is this true about striking the bulb being equal to 2 hours of bulb life?

I believe Bob Williams, Infocus Engineer, mentioned awhile back each strike of the lamp takes away .1% of the bulb life. A 2000hr avg would yield 2 hours. The 4805 is 3000 hours avg, so it's probably closer to 3 hours for the 4805.

How much of a difference does a good versus a not so good DVD player make? I have about 20 hours on my 4805 running from a $30 progressive scan DVD player through component cables. I am going to upgrade to a better DVD player after Christmas, though I can't afford one with DVI let alone the DVI cables.

I am noticing a few things as far as image quality goes and wonder whether it is the player or the projector. First the picture doesn't appear still; there is movement onscreen, even when paused, in large areas of solid color. It doesn't look like heat waves from the PJ however. Second, I can't seem to get the image completely focused. The PJ is 13 feet back projecting on the 76" InFocus screen that came with it. I am sitting about 12.5 feet back, and just not finding the focus I want. Any thoughts?

Infocus denied my $100 Circuit City rebate yesterday:

"Postmark date does not fall within program dates."

I purchased my 4805 at Circuit City on 10-1-05, and the deadline for submitting the rebate materials was 11-30-05. I know I mailed it in several days before that. So I went to the current Circuit City rebate offer, and I noticed it has something that I didn't notice before, a second deadline, which says that you must submit your rebate no later than 30 days after purchase.

So there's two separate deadlines to meet, and I focused only on the second deadline, but by doing that, I ended up submitting it more than 30 days after the purchase date. I just thought I mention this as a warning to others. Max

I believe Bob Williams, Infocus Engineer, mentioned awhile back each strike of the lamp takes away .1% of the bulb life. A 2000hr avg would yield 2 hours. The 4805 is 3000 hours avg, so it's probably closer to 3 hours for the 4805.

So does this mean that if I am going to do something else for under 2-3 hours and be away from the PJ, it's better to just leave it on with no one watching than to turn it off and then back on when I'm finished with whatever I was doing?
That's what I've been doing so far with the 4805 and with my last PJ too.

So does this mean that if I am going to do something else for under 2-3 hours and be away from the PJ, it's better to just leave it onThat's exactly what I do, although my "window" for doing so is about 1-1/2 hours.

well about my post above , about getting the oppo and using the dvi , my dvd player right now is a sony dvp ns50p player

im tninking about buying the oppo and trying the dvi even though i didnt get all that many comments on it

im tninking about buying the oppo and trying the dvi even though i didnt get all that many comments on itIt's really odd. You normally can't shut these guys up about their Oppos!! ;) I guess they're all out Christmas shopping.

I am certain you are making a good choice. At least you will be in good, if quiet, company.

I wish I had such a great setup when I was 19. (I just had a great big stereo system and a waterbed. :cool: )

It's really odd. You normally can't shut these guys up about their Oppos!! ;) I guess they're all out Christmas shopping.

I am certain you are making a good choice. At least you will be in good, if quiet, company.

I wish I had such a great setup when I was 19. (I just had a great big stereo system and a waterbed. :cool: )

Oh, sorry Cavu, I missed my cue. . .

You need to buy an OPPO as soon as possible, blah, blah, blah.

Bravo bad, OPPO good! ;)

OK, there you go-

Wes (who, because of Cavu is watching Bravos go on Ebay and wondering what they would look like pixel mapped on my 4805. . . :D )

Cavu, Merry Christmas- how are you doing? (You're recovering from something, aren't you?)

Oppo has a new player coming out, maybe they'll add custom resolutions. :)

yes, hopefully. I am also looking forward to their DVD recorder.

Cavu, Merry Christmas- how are you doing? (You're recovering from something, aren't you?)Thank you and same to all here!

I do a little better each day but is is incredibly frustrating (I had a stroke 22 months ago).

Oppo has a new player coming out, maybe they'll add custom resolutions. :)

Hey Ja,

ya got a link for that.

Thank you and same to all here!

I do a little better each day but is is incredibly frustrating (I had a stroke 22 months ago).

Sorry to hear that, cavu. I had discs removed from my back and spent the last two years teaching my body how to walk again. It IS frustrating, but it could have been worse. I just missed being paralyzed for life, so I'm thankful for at least the chance to get back to 70% of "normal". It's amazing how we take these things for granted. If it wasn't for the small, but great things in life like family, friends, and this forum, I don't know what I'd do. Merry Christmas, Happy Hannuka, or Joyful Kwanza to you all. :)

should i wait for the new player


what was the difference for you guys switching from component to dvi

I have had my projector for about 13 months. I have about 1400 hours on it. Today while my son was watching a movie the projector stopped projecting. I took the bulb housing out and cleaned the filters. I am not getting any picture. About 3 minutes after turning the projector on the led blinks red single pulses. Is my lamp dead at it's half life? if so what are they charging for new lamps?

I searched and really did not find much on this subject.

I bought one of the refurbed 4805s on BF. This was an upgrade from my X1. Since day one of the 4805 it will not focus the complete image.

What is happening is. If I focus it to the text on the menu option of the 4805 in the top left corner. The bottom left box where it says "searching" or when it displays the Video input you are running. That box is out of focus. If I focus it so that the bottom "searching" box is in focus then the top menu screen isnt.

I focused my X1 the same way and never had a problem. I am also waiting about 10-15min before I try to focus it.

What are your guys thoughts?

Thanks
Dave

your lamp could have quit , is this the first time you have cleaned your screens on your lamp housing ?

http://www.provantage.com/buy-7INFB05R-sp-4805-replacement-lamp-infocus-accessories-consumables-021-shopping.htm


try these guys 297 US and they have 26 in stock :)

Hey Ja,

ya got a link for that.

No real news yet other than a few comments in the video processing forum and dvd player forum. The model is 970 and it's main feature is it's ability to output 480i over hdmi for people wanting to feed it to a high end scaler. It only uses the mediatek chip and will upconvert over hdmi. No faroudja here. Now if there are custom resolutions, we may finally have a good quality inexpensive motion adaptive player that can pixel map. No word on custom resolutions, just my wishlist.

what are they charging for new lamps?Infocus MSRP is $339 but you can find it for less. Wherever you buy it (so long as it's an Infocus authorized reseller) you can purchase a warranty extension to one-year from Infocus for $89. You must purchase the extension before the new lamp's 90-day/500hr warranty expires. The extension warranty has no hour limits and would probably make sense if you are burning as many hours as you are. It certainly does for me - I've gone through 2,200 hrs in just over six months. ;)

I have a brand new 4805 and am looking for wire. My current HT setup will be a 20' hardwire. I understand wire increases in quality from composite to s-video to componet to dvi and there will probably be a 25% increase or more in cost inbetween Wa-lmart's Belkin wire, Radioshack's brand and Monster Cable. I am curious what quality wire you need before it doesn't matter anymore.

CURTIS104,

I'm using a 6600gt with dvi out to my 4805 running 848x480. The PQ is much improved over component. It should also be noted that i'm running theatertek and nvidia pure video.

My htpc/gaming rig/internet browsing/school document typing/anything else you can use a pc for is an athlon xp2200 1gb ram, 6600gt agp 8x, dvd drive, and about 800gb's drive space.

The 6600gt is a great card to go with the 4805. I hear there are some problems when using it to do 1080i temporal deinterlacing but its MORE then adequate for deinterlacing any 480i content.

It was 150 bucks very well spent IMHO

I have a brand new 4805 and am looking for wire. My current HT setup will be a 20' hardwire. I understand wire increases in quality from composite to s-video to componet to dvi and there will probably be a 25% increase or more in cost inbetween Wa-lmart's Belkin wire, Radioshack's brand and Monster Cable. I am curious what quality wire you need before it doesn't matter anymore.
Try monoprice.com They have gotten good reviews for their cables here and their prices can't be beat.

I have a newB question that am a bit confused about - it seems connecting using DVI on the PJ would give the best picture, however because my DVD player & HD cable box only have component outputs, is it possible to get an adapter to connect component to DVI? If so, wouldn't that bypass the faroudja processing which makes this PJ so special? I read through this thread as well as 'The Unofficial Infocus ScreenPlay 4805 FAQ and still am confused.

is it possible to get an adapter to connect component to DVI?I don't know whether such a device exists or not but there's no point to the exercise.

The whole idea of DVI/HDMI is to maintain a purely digital signal path from the source media to the display. Eliminating the digital to analog and subsequent digital back to analog conversion process, the generation of artifacts and data loss are avoided.

A component signal has already been converted to analog (with whatever errors that created) within the source box and and will be converted back to digital within the projector itself.

wouldn't that bypass the faroudja processingYes, the Faroudja processor only operates on the analog inputs of the SP4805. DVI/HDMI digital signals are generally progressive or pixel-mapped and do not require further deinterlacing.

I have a newB question that am a bit confused about - it seems connecting using DVI on the PJ would give the best picture, however because my DVD player & HD cable box only have component outputs, is it possible to get an adapter to connect component to DVI? If so, wouldn't that bypass the faroudja processing which makes this PJ so special? I read through this thread as well as 'The Unofficial Infocus ScreenPlay 4805 FAQ and still am confused.

The main benefit of Faroudja is it's ability to deinterlace standard definition content, which includes DVD and SDTV (which is 480i, interlaced). Digital displays, such as DLP and LCDs, are fixed panel progressive displays. In order for interlaced content to be displayed on these displays they need to be deinterlaced and made progressive.

Most new dvds in the past few years contain "progressive flags" in the video stream, so that progressive scan dvd players can read these streams and properly deinterlace the dvd to make it progressive. These dvd players are known as flag reading progressive players. Unfortunately, there's no set requirement to properly flag DVD (if at all) and many dvds are not flagged correctly. Badly flagged dvds do not get deinterlaced properly resulting interlaced lines in the picture.

The better dvd players out there use "motion adaptive" deinterlacers that do not rely on these flags to properly deinterlace dvd. Faroudja is one of the top motion-adaptive deinterlacers out there. With an LCD or DLP display, you can send it 480i content, but it will need to be deinterlaced/scaled to be made progressive. Unfortunately, not all lcd/dlp displays use a deinterlacer/scaler like faroudja, this is why you see people investing in good quality external video processors or good progressive dvd players.

HDTV is 720p and 1080i. Faroudja deinterlacing is not needed for these as 720p is progressive and 1080i, although is interlaced, is seen as 540p progressive. The 4805 uses Faroudja as a scaler to scale the image down to the 4805's native resolution.

CURTIS104,

I'm using a 6600gt with dvi out to my 4805 running 848x480. The PQ is much improved over component. It should also be noted that i'm running theatertek and nvidia pure video. ...


Are you using powerstrip? Also what screen rate (eg. 48 Hz or 60 Hz)?

If you are using powerstrip, can you post your settings?

I would like to run a PC with theatertek at 48 Hz for DVDs. My only video is the built in Intel graphics on my motherboard, so I expect to need a graphics card.

I've seen another post looking for setup on the 4805 at native rates using DVI
see 4805 and 854x480 on HTPC...going out of my mind :( (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=618680)

who I'm sure would also be interested.

Thanks

Sorry to bother you once more with my VB-problemThe Infocus SP4805 does not have VB - buy it instead.

You are posting to the wrong thread! Take your post to the Panny AE900 Official Thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=586260).

Anyone hear an update on the new firmware? I have version 1.13 and the flickering is started to drive me nuts. I was gonna wait for the new firmware but I might have to downgrade what I have now.

Infocus MSRP is $339 but you can find it for less. Wherever you buy it (so long as it's an Infocus authorized reseller) you can purchase a warranty extension to one-year from Infocus for $89. You must purchase the extension before the new lamp's 90-day/500hr warranty expires. The extension warranty has no hour limits and would probably make sense if you are burning as many hours as you are. It certainly does for me - I've gone through 2,200 hrs in just over six months. ;)

We use ours a lot with my wife and I. Add on my kids and a xbox and I probably will burn up the bulb in less than a year. I think I will go with the extended warranty. For $60 you can't beat it.

I believe Bob Williams, Infocus Engineer, mentioned awhile back each strike of the lamp takes away .1% of the bulb life. A 2000hr avg would yield 2 hours. The 4805 is 3000 hours avg, so it's probably closer to 3 hours for the 4805.

I know this subject has been brought up so many times it's not funny. Still I seem to have a question on this...

Is the lamp strike issue only when you actually turn the power switch on the unit itself after it has been turned off via the power switch?

So the real question is if I just press the power button on the remote and it powers off (this is only a soft power off as the fan still runs all the time) and power it back on is this also the same lamp strike issue (2 - 3 hour bulb life lost)?

Thanks
Tony

I am still not over the shock of how good the 4805 is! To let you know how much I like watching this amazing device's output, last night I endured the widescreen version of Fried Green Tomatoes with my wife. Even she is amazed because she was very sceptical about the whole projection thing.

Our 31" crt is right behind the screen and after the movie was over, I rolled up the screen and she said: "Wow that sure looks small now that we have that projector".

The only thing I do not like about this device is the fact that the fan stays on continuously after a soft power off even after the unit is cool. This is the dumbest thing I have ever seen. Hopefully a future firmware will eliminate that. Why on earth would they do that?

Brantel

I know this subject has been brought up so many times it's not funny. Still I seem to have a question on this...

Is the lamp strike issue only when you actually turn the power switch on the unit itself after it has been turned off via the power switch?

So the real question is if I just press the power button on the remote and it powers off (this is only a soft power off as the fan still runs all the time) and power it back on is this also the same lamp strike issue (2 - 3 hour bulb life lost)?

Thanks
Tony

The lamp turns off whether you use the hard switch or soft off. The lamp will restrike when turning the projector on from either state.

I believe the lamp life projector manufacturers use take into account striking of the lamp. For Infocus testing, they use the projector for 2 hours, hard switch off for 15 minutes, then power it back on, and repeat.

What is most important is to not strike a hot lamp. Failure to strike a lamp due to the lamp being hot (which won't strike up the lamp) will take away from it bulb life the most. Bob Williams has stated that we only need to wait around 3-5 minutes from a hard off in order for the lamp to be cool enough to allow for a successful lamp strike.

........ last night I endured the widescreen version of Fried Green Tomatoes with my wife. .......Brantel


There were no smart a$$ comments after that post???

To let you know how much I like watching this amazing device's output, last night I endured the widescreen version of Fried Green Tomatoes
Brantel

:eek: :eek: :eek:

If that's the price I had to pay for having this projector, I think I might have to send it back..... :)

Does anybody here tried to add a wide lens for 4805?

CKL and Lion tried and they said 4805 can't do that.....

Will Optoma H27 can add third parties wide lens? The one from Optoma cost $999, but Olympus WCON-08B cost only $120....



Are you talking for something like a Fixed height setup... i know one guy has one,

Im hopeing to set one up at some point, but so much for the lens, would be nice to have the constant ratio thing going on1

Infocus denied my $100 Circuit City rebate yesterday:

"Postmark date does not fall within program dates."

I purchased my 4805 at Circuit City on 10-1-05, and the deadline for submitting the rebate materials was 11-30-05. I know I mailed it in several days before that. So I went to the current Circuit City rebate offer, and I noticed it has something that I didn't notice before, a second deadline, which says that you must submit your rebate no later than 30 days after purchase.

So there's two separate deadlines to meet, and I focused only on the second deadline, but by doing that, I ended up submitting it more than 30 days after the purchase date. I just thought I mention this as a warning to others. Max

I also ran into a snag with the rebate, but I arm-wrestled mine through until I got it. Infocus first denied me on the same basis as yours (30 days after purchase), but they based that from the time I ordered it at my local Hi-Fi shop. I didn't recieve the projector or subsequent rebate necessities until almost 1 month later. I sent them a copy of the final receipt that indicated the day I picked it up and payed for it...and had a little quible with them over the phone and a month or two later the cheque arrived in the mail. Point being, if you think you've been wrongly denied....argue with them. Mail-in-rebate schemes work because most people don't mail them in, and most people that do mail them in won't fight for it.

Are you talking for something like a Fixed height setup... i know one guy has one,

Im hopeing to set one up at some point, but so much for the lens, would be nice to have the constant ratio thing going on1

Actually the Optoma lense is used to convert the H27 to short throw which is as of this writing $599, that Olympus lense seems to be for just wide angle use if I'm not mistaken. ;)

Hi all,

I have been reading all the great comments about the 4805, and am ready to take the plunge, but I am concerned whether it will work given my room layout.

I will be able to place the 4805 about 11' back from the wall where I want to mount the screen. I will be sitting on the sofa, basically under the projector.

Problem #1: the wall where the screen will go is the entrance to a large closet. I plan to use a pull down screen to cover the closet doors but the ceiling height is only 7.75 feet with a mere 12.5 inches of mounting space above the doors

Problem #2: I have a ceiling fan which extends down 10" from the ceiling

As I understand it, I should mount the projector (upside-down) 10" from the ceiling to account for the ceiling fan. The Screenplay 4805 calculator suggests a screen offset of 11" for a diagonal picture of 80". Total distance from the top of the screen to ceiling in my setup: 21"

Since I have to mount the screen above the closet doors, are there screens available that will give me a 10" spacer between the screen housing and display area or should I simply order a larger screen? Perhaps a different projector would work better given the room's constraints?

Thanks for your feedback!

Infocus MSRP is $339 but you can find it for less. Wherever you buy it (so long as it's an Infocus authorized reseller) you can purchase a warranty extension to one-year from Infocus for $89. You must purchase the extension before the new lamp's 90-day/500hr warranty expires. The extension warranty has no hour limits and would probably make sense if you are burning as many hours as you are. It certainly does for me - I've gone through 2,200 hrs in just over six months. ;)

I am curious about this warranty, I think I recall someone mentioning it doesn't cover normal wear and tear (something along those lines) and so is kind of a "if we made it wrong we will fix it, but if it just burns out, well it was made to eventually burn out so tough".

Is this right? I still think $89 a year is a bit steep but if you can keep adding them on again and again and they cover normal use wearing out the bulb then after 4 years that's still only $360 which is about the cost of a bulb.

I think its probably more that you have adjusted to it. It sometimes takes a bit of time for one's expectations to adjust and you begin to appreciate accurate colours, great colour temperature and tracking and the solid blacks. IMHO.


speaking of color temp, what do you all have yours set on?

Infocus MSRP is $339 but you can find it for less. Wherever you buy it (so long as it's an Infocus authorized reseller) you can purchase a warranty extension to one-year from Infocus for $89. You must purchase the extension before the new lamp's 90-day/500hr warranty expires. The extension warranty has no hour limits and would probably make sense if you are burning as many hours as you are. It certainly does for me - I've gone through 2,200 hrs in just over six months. ;)

I am curious about this warranty, I think I recall someone mentioning it doesn't cover normal wear and tear (something along those lines) and so is kind of a "if we made it wrong we will fix it, but if it just burns out, well it was made to eventually burn out so tough".

Is this right? I still think $89 a year is a bit steep but if you can keep adding them on again and again and they cover normal use wearing out the bulb then after 4 years that's still only $360 which is about the cost of a bulb.

Well I couldn't wait for the new firmware and downgraded to the 1.02. Flashing is gone, but I can no longer use 72hz from my htpc. It worked fine with the 1.13 software. Anything besides 60hz results in a real dark picture with alot of overscan. What refresh rate are you guys using from your htpc?

Hi all,

I have been reading all the great comments about the 4805, and am ready to take the plunge, but I am concerned whether it will work given my room layout.

I will be able to place the 4805 about 11" back from the wall where I want to mount the screen. I will be sitting on the sofa, basically under the projector.

Problem #1: the wall where the screen will go is the entrance to a large closet. I plan to use a pull down screen to cover the closet doors but the ceiling height is only 7.75 feet with a mere 12.5 inches of mounting space above the doors

Problem #2: I have a ceiling fan which extends down 10" from the ceiling

As I understand it, I should mount the projector (upside-down) 10" from the ceiling to account for the ceiling fan. The Screenplay 4805 calculator suggests a screen offset of 11" for a diagonal picture of 80". Total distance from the top of the screen to ceiling in my setup: 21"

Since I have to mount the screen above the closet doors, are there screens available that will give me a 10" spacer between the screen housing and display area or should I simply order a larger screen? Perhaps a different projector would work better given the room's constraints?

Thanks for your feedback!I used the Optoma 92" Greywolf screen mounted as close the top of my drop ceiling as possible. I think it was at about 7.75 feet. The Greywolf comes with a black leader at the top just for the purpose you mention. Others may as well, I know all of them can be special ordered with whatever leader you want at the top.

Mine PJ is mounted at 14.5 feet for the 92" screen on a 6" drop mount. The PJ is basically parallel with the floor and I use no keystone correction. I also sit right under the PJ.

I am curious about this warranty, I think I recall someone mentioning it doesn't cover normal wear and tear (something along those lines) and so is kind of a "if we made it wrong we will fix it, but if it just burns out, well it was made to eventually burn out so tough".

Is this right? I still think $89 a year is a bit steep but if you can keep adding them on again and again and they cover normal use wearing out the bulb then after 4 years that's still only $360 which is about the cost of a bulb.

The eternal skeptic that posted about the wear and tear was me. If you read the 1-year lamp warantee, it says, among other things: "This extended warranty is subject to all limitations and exclusions set forth in the limited warranty statement for the associated product." I found this here:

http://www.infocus.com/service/service_offerings/americas.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&prog=lamp

If you then read the warantee in your manual, it alludes to normal wear and tear not being covered, which then would apply to the bulb, as indicated above. You can also read the original product warantee here:

http://www.infocus.com/service/service_offerings/warranty.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&

HOWEVER, if you go about 20 pages back in this thread, someone (cavu, I think) posted a link to the IF site that is the actual extended lamp warantee. It states that you don't have to worry about how many hours you are putting on the bulb, since they'll replace it anyway.

Blech! :confused: Legalese double-speak. I'm not a patient enough person to deal with reading and re-reading the "party of the first part, in conjuction with the party of the second part, except in conditions of reference to the rule, addendum paragraph 12.a, whenceforth excluding the secondary limitations of predetermined offsets listed in line 426d of the attatched notification."

All this aside, I doubt that IF will let you just keep purchasing the warantee over and over again on the same bulb. It seems I read somewhere that the 1-year warantee only applied or was available to new bulbs that were purchased, but it was an implied statement, not cut-and-dry.

where is a good place to buy a m1 to dvi adapter so i can watch dvi on my screenplay 4805

I don't know whether such a device exists or not but there's no point to the exercise.

The whole idea of DVI/HDMI is to maintain a purely digital signal path from the source media to the display. Eliminating the digital to analog and subsequent digital back to analog conversion process, the generation of artifacts and data loss are avoided.

A component signal has already been converted to analog (with whatever errors that created) within the source box and and will be converted back to digital within the projector itself.

Yes, the Faroudja processor only operates on the analog inputs of the SP4805. DVI/HDMI digital signals are generally progressive or pixel-mapped and do not require further deinterlacing.


It is possible to do this since DVI-I/DVI-A have analog pins intended for VGA - but you can choose your color decoder and submit YPbPr with suitable VGA adapters. Only SD/HD - no 480i. Only do it if you need the extra YPbPr port - better off using a switching receiver with component ports.

The eternal skeptic that posted about the wear and tear was me. If you read the 1-year lamp warantee, it says, among other things: "This extended warranty is subject to all limitations and exclusions set forth in the limited warranty statement for the associated product." I found this here:

http://www.infocus.com/service/service_offerings/americas.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&prog=lamp

If you then read the warantee in your manual, it alludes to normal wear and tear not being covered, which then would apply to the bulb, as indicated above. You can also read the original product warantee here:

http://www.infocus.com/service/service_offerings/warranty.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&

HOWEVER, if you go about 20 pages back in this thread, someone (cavu, I think) posted a link to the IF site that is the actual extended lamp warantee. It states that you don't have to worry about how many hours you are putting on the bulb, since they'll replace it anyway.

Blech! :confused: Legalese double-speak. I'm not a patient enough person to deal with reading and re-reading the "party of the first part, in conjuction with the party of the second part, except in conditions of reference to the rule, addendum paragraph 12.a, whenceforth excluding the secondary limitations of predetermined offsets listed in line 426d of the attatched notification."

All this aside, I doubt that IF will let you just keep purchasing the warantee over and over again on the same bulb. It seems I read somewhere that the 1-year warantee only applied or was available to new bulbs that were purchased, but it was an implied statement, not cut-and-dry.

lamp warranty is only available with the purchase of a new lamp or projector. The replacement lamp is covered under the original warranty - not a new one. So the freebie lamps are only valid for one year - then no more - unless you buy another lamp.

I am curious about this warranty, I think I recall someone mentioning it doesn't cover normal wear and tear (something along those lines) and so is kind of a "if we made it wrong we will fix it, but if it just burns out, well it was made to eventually burn out so tough".

Is this right? I still think $89 a year is a bit steep but if you can keep adding them on again and again and they cover normal use wearing out the bulb then after 4 years that's still only $360 which is about the cost of a bulb.

You can only get the extended warranty on a new unit or a new bulb. You can't get another after the first one runs out. :( It would be nice though if you could.

The extended bulb warranty can be had for less than the $89 on infocus website. I got it for a little over $60 shipped.

If you can't keep stacking them then it seems hardly worth it to me. If the bulb doesn't suck right off and break in the first 90 days/500 hours I find it hard to believe it would break in under 1 year (or probably about 1000-1500 hours) even though I see somenoe just posted theirs did.

Especially because if you buy this warranty and use the bulb hard for the first year knowing the warranty covers you, unless you are in the unlikely group in which the bulb does blow during the warranty time you now have a much higher risk of bulb failure (since you power used it that first year), no warranty option and are out $80.

I think I would rather keep that 25% of the bulb cost and put it towards a new bulb later....

Hi Brantel - thanks for the feedback. I will ask around at a couple shops and see how long the leader is on the stock screens - getting a custom made one sounds expensive! Still, I'd really like to try a pj rather than another tv.

How do you find the fan noise of the 4805 only a few feet over your head (presumably in econo mode)? A number of people have commented that it can be distracting and I have yet to demo the unit.

can one of ypu please post a link to a good adapter so i can hook up dvi to my projector

Kirtis, I used Monoprice.com for all of my adapters/cables. Great prices, great cables and fast shipping. I would definitely recommend to anyone.

thanks bretluke82 , can you provide a link , just to make sure im getting the right thing.

I have a ceiling fan which extends down 10" from the ceilingHow far from the projector is the fan? I would mount the projector as close to the ceiling as possible; the beam from the projector drops between the projector and the screen and will probably clear the fan just fine, depending on the distance.

thanks bretluke82 , can you provide a link , just to make sure im getting the right thing.

Go to the top of this page and you will see that they are a alliance member. Click on their add.

well i ordered the oppo , im just waiting on a reccomendation from someoen who has a m1 to dvi adapter and Like theirs so i can get one like it ,

ive looked them up and there is male and female ends, and other things , and im not keen on cables, Im really needing some help getting the right adapter , my player is going to be here tommorow, and i want to get the dvi setup as quickly as i can

http://riteav.com/product_info.php?products_id=104 what about this

Hi Brantel - thanks for the feedback. I will ask around at a couple shops and see how long the leader is on the stock screens - getting a custom made one sounds expensive! Still, I'd really like to try a pj rather than another tv.

How do you find the fan noise of the 4805 only a few feet over your head (presumably in econo mode)? A number of people have commented that it can be distracting and I have yet to demo the unit.

It is not much more expensive to get the leader. I purchased a large Dalite screen for our church that was special with a 48" drop and it was the same price as the one with no drop. You might want to check this out.

As far as the noise goes, I can hardly hear it in low power mode. It sounds like a hair dryer in high power but the increase in brightness is only slight so to me it makes only sense to run in low power mode. On low power mode, anything but total silence from the sound system completely masks the sound of the fan.

No problem for me!

Brantel

http://riteav.com/product_info.php?products_id=104 what about this

Kirtis,

Look here (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041905&p_id=2675&seq=1&format=2&style=)

Gregg

How far from the projector is the fan? I would mount the projector as close to the ceiling as possible; the beam from the projector drops between the projector and the screen and will probably clear the fan just fine, depending on the distance.

Sadly the length of the room is only 11' and with a screen offset of 11" over that distance, it's about 1" per foot. I might be able to move the 4805 up 2-3" and still miss the end of the fan blades - that would reduce the necessary screen leader somewhat. I suppose the trick will be to size the screen with a margin of error so I play around with the placement before I drill the holes :)

All in all, it's sounding like the 4805 may yet find a place in my apartment - merry Christmas to me :)

InFocus to launch three new home projectors in 1Q 2006

Emily Chuang, DigiTimes.com (http://www.digitimes.com/news/a20051222PR206.html), Taipei [Thursday 22 December 2005]

Front projector industry pioneer InFocus will release three front video projectors for the consumer segment from its Play Big projector series in the first quarter of 2006. Included will be enhanced and high definition models using the latest DLP technology.

The Play Big IN72 will target mainstream consumers. Prices at US$1,299, the projector will feature 480p enhanced definition. The Play Big IN74 is for custom dealers looking to magnify customers’ large-screen viewing experiences including gaming, entertaining and movie nights. The IN74 will provide native 16:9 [576p] resolution in the United States as well as in Wide PAL countries. The projector will be priced at US$1,699. For the higher-end of the market, the Big IN76 is priced at US$2,499 and provides native 720p high-definition resolution.

According to Pacific Media Associates, the worldwide market for front projectors is expected to steadily grow from US$6.5 billion in 2004 to US$9.0 billion in 2007, representing a compound annual growth rate of 11%.

In the third quarter of this year, InFocus had revenues of US$130.3 million and negative gross margins. Although InFocus’ shipments were up 6.6% on year through the first nine months of this year, its revenues were down 14.2%.

According to a filing with the SEC, the company is currently transitioning its OEM projector business to China-based South Mountain Technologies (SMT), a 50-50 owned joint venture between InFocus and TCL.

Approximately 70% of InFocus’ revenues currently come from the US market.

http://www.digitimes.com/NewsShow/20051222PR206_files/image002.jpg
InFocus Play Big projector

Sources: company

can one of ypu please post a link to a good adapterKirtis!

Why don't you just get the right cable to start with and skip the adapter?! You want a DVI-M1 cable. It doesn't matter if its DVI-I or DVI-D - get the cheaper one. Don't worry about the male/female element - all the standard cables have the right plugs. The other guys have directed you to some good suppliers.

Kras,

In any of your installations, have you had a chance to compare the Graywolf to say the Da-Lite HCMW or HCCV or the Hi-Power with the 4805?

Average living room conditions (not perfectly light controlled) and 92" is what I have in mind, but any of your impressions about the comparison would be useful..

I'm thinking of replacing my Graywolf with either a HCMW or Hi-power.

It would probably be best to get samples and try it out for your particular area.

It would probably be best to get samples and try it out for your particular area.

I've requested them. The way the eyes adapt to a screen just can't be captured with 1 foot samples. I'm looking for comparisons from people who've compared the real full screens, esp. someone like Kras.

Thanks Doc G and Kirtis,
I have had my screenplay for a month and my oppo showed up today. I didn't realize I needed a different cable, that link is useful. I am running it on component right now and it looks, well, terrible (dark and colors muted) in comparison to the dvi output from my powerbook (1024x768). Hopefully the right cable and proper tweaking will set it right.
Also, to weigh in on the screen talk, I used goo systems digital grey light paint and base coat on a sheet of 1/4" birch plywood on a frame to keep it flat and rigid. It makes for a killer screen, very bright. Good systems was highly rated on projector central and is a good choice if your buget is tight and you can deal with a rigid frame/ permenant set-up or if you can paint directly on the wall.

Does anyone know what, if any, effect having a fajoudja processor running in both my player and my projector will have?

I've requested them. The way the eyes adapt to a screen just can't be captured with 1 foot samples. I'm looking for comparisons from people who've compared the real full screens, esp. someone like Kras.

Well then, for my set-up and having compared a few, the HCCV was the way I went but I also liked Carada, but for each I would say it "depends". All of them have some good and bad points. Not sure you will get a clear cut answer.

Does anyone know what, if any, effect having a fajoudja processor running in both my player and my projector will have?

They cannot work at the same time. If you run @ 480i, the 4805's faroudja will kick in. If the Oppo is run @ 480p, then the player's DCDi kicks in.

Yeah, run the Oppo over DVI and set your RGB gains to 58, RGB offsets to 28.5. Then you will be amazed.

speaking of color temp, what do you all have yours set on?

You need to set it to 6500K. The 4805 is pre-tuned to this Hollywood standard.

Are you using powerstrip? Also what screen rate (eg. 48 Hz or 60 Hz)?

If you are using powerstrip, can you post your settings?

I would like to run a PC with theatertek at 48 Hz for DVDs. My only video is the built in Intel graphics on my motherboard, so I expect to need a graphics card.

I've seen another post looking for setup on the 4805 at native rates using DVI
see 4805 and 854x480 on HTPC...going out of my mind :( (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=618680)

who I'm sure would also be interested.

Thanks

Yes you will need a card. Most around here have switched to NVidia, including me by the end of this weekend. If you buy NVidia, then you need the correct drivers to do custom resolutions and refresh rates.

For ATI or if you still want to use powerstrip, then here are the timings for 848x480-47.952 Hz, courtesy of DaGamePimp, who seemingly has dissappeared:

PowerStrip timing parameters:
848x480=848,24,88,96,480,1,3,13,25167,2304

Generic timing details for 848x480:
HFP=24 HSW=88 HBP=96 kHz=24 VFP=1 VSW=3 VBP=13 Hz=48

Linux modeline parameters:
"848x480" 25.167 848 872 960 1056 480 481 484 497 +hsync +vsync

I have since switched to 72Hz, which you can manually type into Powerstrip as 71.928 Hz.

The only thing I do not like about this device is the fact that the fan stays on continuously after a soft power off even after the unit is cool. This is the dumbest thing I have ever seen. Hopefully a future firmware will eliminate that. Why on earth would they do that?

Brantel

Yeah, oh well. I just wanted to recommend, if you don't already, to hard power off after the soft power down (once the fan goes inaudible). Otherwise, your 4805 will become a second air filter for your home. ;)

Speaking about this, is there anything anyone is using to automatically soft power down, then probably hard power down the PJ. I have this bad habbit of falling asleep for hours before I realize the PJ is still on. This works OK with my 10 year old CRT, but since these bulbs are so damn expensive I need something to help with powering it down. Any ideas?

tradewinds

powersave - Ja Phule has recommended this several times.

therealgeno,
ok, I have the powersave checked on my 4805. What is it supposed to do? It will only kick in if there is no source signal....correct? My issue is that there will always be a source signal so I need something like a SLEEP function add-on.

therealgeno,
ok, I have the powersave checked on my 4805. What is it supposed to do? I will only kick in if there is no source signal....correct? My issue is that there will always be a source signal so I need something like a SLEEP function add-on.

This won't help in your case. What you need is a sleep timer so you lose the source and the PJ turns off via powersave. A lot of Receivers have sleep times and I imagine you could buy a timer for the plug.

Also, you could buy a remote with a sleep timer function as well.

good, I'll check my receiver and remote

Hi guys,

Just got my 4805 refurb, and it's my first projector. Works great so far! The only problem is there was no remote in the box :( - hopefully Infocus will send me one without much trouble. Got a few questions of course :p

1) The display looks spotless, but the lens looks very "dusty", if you will, when turned on. Is this par for the course for refurbs? Should I leave it alone or attempt to clean it?

2) I'm currently using the S-video out. My DVD player has no DVI/HDMI but I'll try the component outs. Do you need a "special" cable for the component outs or would the std composite video cables work just fine and what's a reasonable max limit for the length?

3) I saw the FAQ recommends hard power down without going through the soft power down first when you are done for the night. Is that more or less the consensus? Should I even care?

Thanks!

1) The display looks spotless, but the lens looks very "dusty", if you will, when turned on. Is this par for the course for refurbs? Should I leave it alone or attempt to clean it?

2) I'm currently using the S-video out. My DVD player has no DVI/HDMI but I'll try the component outs. Do you need a "special" cable for the component outs or would the std composite video cables work just fine and what's a reasonable max limit for the length?

3) I saw the FAQ recommends hard power down without going through the soft power down first when you are done for the night. Is that more or less the consensus? Should I even care?

Thanks!

1. Unless you are seeing dust blobs (faint greyish spots during dark scenes), don't worry about it.

2. Some use standard coax cables (I'm assuming you mean the red, white, and yellow) - just make sure you match them up at the other end. I went ahead and ordered 50ft component cables - nice and thick. No problems.

3. Probably the most asked, debated, rehashed, wornout question. Should you care? The only thing you should care about is not striking the lamp while it is hot. Soft power then hard power vs hard power only - :rolleyes: . No offense hudson, but if you were to search this in the old thread, you could read on it for months.

therealgeno,
ok, I have the powersave checked on my 4805. What is it supposed to do? It will only kick in if there is no source signal....correct? My issue is that there will always be a source signal so I need something like a SLEEP function add-on.

Duh - my bad. Wasn't thinking. I'm sure you could find a Sleep timer for cheap.

Speaking about this, is there anything anyone is using to automatically soft power down, then probably hard power down the PJ. I have this bad habbit of falling asleep for hours before I realize the PJ is still on. This works OK with my 10 year old CRT, but since these bulbs are so damn expensive I need something to help with powering it down. Any ideas?

If you are running component through a receiver, maybe set a sleep timer on your receiver (if it supports it, I know my pioneer 1014 has this function) so that it will cut out the component signal, then the 4805 will shut down after receiving no signal in 20 mins.

I finally bought a cable to run from my Sony VAIO desktop PC (model PCV-RZ22G) to my 4805. The cable is a DVI to M1 cable from monoprice.com, running from the DVI output on the VAIO to the M1 input on the projector.

Has anyone been able to successfully get this to work?

I know the cable is OK, as are the connections to the computer and projector, because I have seen the computer's start-up screens via the projector.

And if anyone thinks they can help troubleshoot, here are some necessary details:

This VAIO desktop model uses an NVIDIA GeForce4 mx 440 graphics card. It has both VGA and DVI output, but it appears I'm only able to use one at a time (bummer). I have the Sony LCD monitor hooked up to the VGA output, and my 4805 hooked up to the DVI output. Running Windows XP Home at 1024x768 resolution, I bring up the control panel for the display, and click Advanced. There's a tab specific to the NVIDIA card, and it has a device selection section, with two radio buttons: Analog Display, or Digital Display. Both can't be selected at the same time. I change from Analog to Digital, and click Apply. The LCD monitor's picture goes away, but the projector still says "Searching..." I wait and wait.

The projector is set to display the Computer input, which is the M1 input.

At this point, I can't tweak further, because I have no display! I have to hold down the computer's power button for 10 seconds to shut it down. A minute later, I press it to power it back on, and that's when I see the computer's start-up screens via both the projector and the LCD monitor! So I know the connections are OK. About the time the XP login screen would appear, both displays go dark, and the 4805 goes back to "Searching...".

I then disconnect the cable from the computer's DVI output, shut down the computer, wait a minute, and power it back on. Now my LCD monitor works again, and I'm back to where I started.

I could try again, using a resolution different than 1024x768. Or am I barking up the wrong tree?

Thanks in advance for any help...
ND

I finally bought a cable to run from my Sony VAIO desktop PC (model PCV-RZ22G) to my 4805. The cable is a DVI to M1 cable from monoprice.com, running from the DVI output on the VAIO to the M1 input on the projector.

Has anyone been able to successfully get this to work?

I know the cable is OK, as are the connections to the computer and projector, because I have seen the computer's start-up screens via the projector.

And if anyone thinks they can help troubleshoot, here are some necessary details:

This VAIO desktop model uses an NVIDIA GeForce4 mx 440 graphics card. It has both VGA and DVI output, but it appears I'm only able to use one at a time (bummer). I have the Sony LCD monitor hooked up to the VGA output, and my 4805 hooked up to the DVI output. Running Windows XP Home at 1024x768 resolution, I bring up the control panel for the display, and click Advanced. There's a tab specific to the NVIDIA card, and it has a device selection section, with two radio buttons: Analog Display, or Digital Display. Both can't be selected at the same time. I change from Analog to Digital, and click Apply. The LCD monitor's picture goes away, but the projector still says "Searching..." I wait and wait.

The projector is set to display the Computer input, which is the M1 input.

At this point, I can't tweak further, because I have no display! I have to hold down the computer's power button for 10 seconds to shut it down. A minute later, I press it to power it back on, and that's when I see the computer's start-up screens via both the projector and the LCD monitor! So I know the connections are OK. About the time the XP login screen would appear, both displays go dark, and the 4805 goes back to "Searching...".

I then disconnect the cable from the computer's DVI output, shut down the computer, wait a minute, and power it back on. Now my LCD monitor works again, and I'm back to where I started.

I could try again, using a resolution different than 1024x768. Or am I barking up the wrong tree?

Thanks in advance for any help...
ND

Wihtout installing my MX440 again and looking at the settings I would

Make sure you have the newest driver from nvidia (get the full setup not just the barebones driver)

On your laptop there should be one of the top row of buttons that says LCD or OUTPUT (sometimes it's a picture of a square with two vertical lines on each side of it representing a monitor) or something that allows you to choose the laptop screen or the external or both (you might have to hold the function key to access this feature) try toggling that a few times to see if it spits the output to your DVI instead.

Try running 848x480 to the PJ over DVI.

I know that over vga you can only run PC resolutions so maybe there is something about that but only with dvi?

gushy your sig kicks @ss. Gave me a chuckle.

Definatley Monoprice.com. Great prices & very fast shipping.

This is easy. I have both an X1 and a 4805 set up well. The X1 is so magical, that in side by side comparisons, the improvement is far less than others have claimed. So if you want a real change, go for the 5000, and get a Panny S77 DVD palyer for $210 (net), which does a great job of upconverting and all your DVDs will look almost HD. Go for it.

OK you calibration gurus.

I have just installed a LimitedSharpen function in the Avisynth folder in ffdshow - a freaking awesome little plug-in. It adds an extremely clean sharpen function without adding hardly any noise, halos, or ringing. Of coure there is a strength setting, which I have set pretty low. There is a bad side, however; it is extremely CPU intensive. I know there are a lot of HTPCers here, so throw me a PM and I'll give you the thread and the website for a tutorial.

So, I searched through the calibration threads and found one where ChrisWiggles posted some info from Guy Kuoy of Avia. I read through the sharpness pattern test.

My questions:
1. It says to adjust sharpness so the white lines almost dissappear around the black lines. If you make them dissappear completely, then you end up with a blurry image. So, I did this. BUT, if I leave a little of the white around the lines, I can see ringing on my DVDs. If I eliminate it completely, ringing is gone, but I guess the picture could be sharper. I suppose there is a tradeoff. Advice?

2. Are there any other test patterns for sharpness? I hate the sharpness test pattern for DVE, and I don't care much for the one on Avia, although it is better to use. There has to be something else that could give a more accurate test.

I ask because this seems pretty important to get as much detail without adding to it - and I would really like to utilize this plug-in as much as possible. I hope after Christmas, once my new HTPC is built (MOBO arrived today - now I have all the parts), to post some new screenshots.

I hope everyone here has a great, RESTFUL, Merry Christmas!

This is easy. I have both an X1 and a 4805 set up well. The X1 is so magical, that in side by side comparisons, the improvement is far less than others have claimed. So if you want a real change, go for the 5000, and get a Panny S77 DVD palyer for $210 (net), which does a great job of upconverting and all your DVDs will look almost HD. Go for it.

Flame on! :D
I believe the gauntlet has been thrown down.

The X1 close to the 4805?..well yeah I suppose if you just plugged them in
and started shooting..but dont be fooled they are very different if you have them set-up correctly.

Hey guys,

After 2 weeks of an addiction to this Forum and PJ's, I have decided to get the 4805.

Now I have a few questions on when is a good time to buy the PJ to save the most $.
With the new models debuting this Spring, will the 4805 drop in price?
Would it be worth waiting until then to buy this unit?
Are there post Christmas sales that may happen?

Also,
I am not opposed to the refurbished model at all...
I know we can't post prices, so I won't go there, but is it safe to assume that a refurb is a safe route to go as well?
Will the refurbs fall in price with the new models debuting?

Thanks in advance from the noob. :D

RC4

FishPoker

Not sure what your budget is, but if it is around $1200, why not wait and get a new IN72? That is what I would do.

If you want to spend less, then get a 4805. I would stay away from the refurbs (JMHO) and buy it brand new with full warranty, and for a little more $$, get an extended bulb warranty.

well, i'm very suprised folks haven't seem to have tried this much. i'm thinking i'll open her up and see if i can replace the fan or fans. i live in an apt and it would be complicated to build a hushbox or the like.

does anyone know

1. how many fans it has?
2. size?
3. cfm?

if i can replace with a pc fan of the same or higher cfm, that would be ideal; though i imagine it might be tricky as my first choices (nexus, yate-loon, papst), might not push enough air. if i do mod it i'll make sure to push as much or more air, but i see no reason why a much quieter fan couldn't be used.

The main benefit of Faroudja is it's ability to deinterlace standard definition content, which includes DVD and SDTV (which is 480i, interlaced). Digital displays, such as DLP and LCDs, are fixed panel progressive displays. In order for interlaced content to be displayed on these displays they need to be deinterlaced and made progressive.

Most new dvds in the past few years contain "progressive flags" in the video stream, so that progressive scan dvd players can read these streams and properly deinterlace the dvd to make it progressive. These dvd players are known as flag reading progressive players. Unfortunately, there's no set requirement to properly flag DVD (if at all) and many dvds are not flagged correctly. Badly flagged dvds do not get deinterlaced properly resulting interlaced lines in the picture.

The better dvd players out there use "motion adaptive" deinterlacers that do not rely on these flags to properly deinterlace dvd. Faroudja is one of the top motion-adaptive deinterlacers out there. With an LCD or DLP display, you can send it 480i content, but it will need to be deinterlaced/scaled to be made progressive. Unfortunately, not all lcd/dlp displays use a deinterlacer/scaler like faroudja, this is why you see people investing in good quality external video processors or good progressive dvd players.

HDTV is 720p and 1080i. Faroudja deinterlacing is not needed for these as 720p is progressive and 1080i, although is interlaced, is seen as 540p progressive. The 4805 uses Faroudja as a scaler to scale the image down to the 4805's native resolution.


Nice post Japhule...so what are you using for a DVD player?

Ok, I am looking to try another DVD player out but dont want to have to shuffle around a half dozen players to get the best one for the 4805 so id love to get a list of which players look the best on the 4805.

Check out item 5845355986 on a popular auction site.

well, i'm very suprised folks haven't seem to have tried this much. i'm thinking i'll open her up and see if i can replace the fan or fans. i live in an apt and it would be complicated to build a hushbox or the like.

does anyone know

1. how many fans it has?
2. size?
3. cfm?

if i can replace with a pc fan of the same or higher cfm, that would be ideal; though i imagine it might be tricky as my first choices (nexus, yate-loon, papst), might not push enough air. if i do mod it i'll make sure to push as much or more air, but i see no reason why a much quieter fan couldn't be used.

I looked all over the IF website, and they had no info on the size of the fan. It looks to me as of there is only one - at least I have only seen one. Not sure if you have had to clean your filters yet, but once you pop out the lamp housing, the fan is sitting just inside on the right. I am not sure if there is a fan on the other side of the color wheel. It would make complete sense if there were two - one for intake and one for exhaust.

JeffKB, or others who have removed dust blobs and have removed the front grill probably have a better idea if there is more than one fan or not.

Dude, I would love for you to give this a whirl. I have been so tempted to do so. I imagine if it worked, then every 4805 owner would do it. Then computer stores would wonder what the hell is up when they can't keep whatever size fan the 4805 needs on the shelf.

Nice post Japhule...so what are you using for a DVD player?

Ok, I am looking to try another DVD player out but dont want to have to shuffle around a half dozen players to get the best one for the 4805 so id love to get a list of which players look the best on the 4805.

Check out item 5845355986 on a popular auction site.

I use the popular Oppo dvd player. It too uses Faroudja for deinterlacing and it is only good over DVI (not component).

well, i'm very suprised folks haven't seem to have tried this much. i'm thinking i'll open her up and see if i can replace the fan or fans. i live in an apt and it would be complicated to build a hushbox or the like.

does anyone know

1. how many fans it has?
2. size?
3. cfm?

if i can replace with a pc fan of the same or higher cfm, that would be ideal; though i imagine it might be tricky as my first choices (nexus, yate-loon, papst), might not push enough air. if i do mod it i'll make sure to push as much or more air, but i see no reason why a much quieter fan couldn't be used.


The SP4805 has two fans. Two months ago I repaired my SP4805 for a strange noise in one of the fans, the noise produced it a wire that made contact with one of the fans. To open it I used the service manual of the X1, and I can guarantee you that the SP4805 is exactly similar to the X1 inside.


Enrico Castagnetti

well, i'm very suprised folks haven't seem to have tried this much. i'm thinking i'll open her up and see if i can replace the fan or fans. i live in an apt and it would be complicated to build a hushbox or the like.

does anyone know

1. how many fans it has?
2. size?
3. cfm?

if i can replace with a pc fan of the same or higher cfm, that would be ideal; though i imagine it might be tricky as my first choices (nexus, yate-loon, papst), might not push enough air. if i do mod it i'll make sure to push as much or more air, but i see no reason why a much quieter fan couldn't be used.

Sorry, I forget to mention that to obtain a copy of the X1 service manual you can go to the following address:

http://www.eserviceinfo.com/download.php?fileid=8087

Enrico Castagnetti

Hi,

I finally setup my cable box with the projector using a 50 foot s-video cable that I bought from monoprice.com. The picture seems fine except that at the very top edge there is what seems to be some kind of fuzziness or static. Again, its only on the top most edge. I also noticed that when I used that cable with my dvd-player there seems to be missing the topmost edge of the image (when compared to using monoprice 50 foot component cables).

is this normal? is there a way to fix it? Or is there something wrong with the projector or the cable?

Thanks for your help!

Hi,

I finally setup my cable box with the projector using a 50 foot s-video cable that I bought from monoprice.com. The picture seems fine except that at the very top edge there is what seems to be some kind of fuzziness or static. Again, its only on the top most edge. I also noticed that when I used that cable with my dvd-player there seems to be missing the topmost edge of the image (when compared to using monoprice 50 foot component cables).

is this normal? is there a way to fix it? Or is there something wrong with the projector or the cable?

Thanks for your help!

Is this on HD channels and DVD only? What aspect ratio do you have the PJ set at? Why are you going with S-vid cables when you have component?

at the very top edge there is what seems to be some kind of fuzziness or static.This is the closed caption and other data which is normally cropped off the top of a traditional display. It's normal. The overscan feature on the projector will get rid of most but probably not all of it.

my dvd-player ... seems to be missing the topmost edge of the image It's not an issue of cables. The DVD is outputting a different image over the component versus the S-video connection.

Not sure why you would chose the S-video cables over the component; S-video is not a very high quality image. Although, if you are using the S-video only for SD channels off your cable box, you're not losing much, if anything.

Hi,

Thanks for your help, as always.

The s-video is for the cable box. It's either that or composite, so I figure s-video is better. I'm definitely using component video with the dvd player.

What's strange to me is that when I use my rear projection tv with the same cable box, I don't get that fuzziness. That's what made me worried. The aspect ratio that I am using is 16:9 with the tv, and that's when I get that 1 line of fuzziness. When I change to the other aspect ratios, then I am fine.

So can I say that what is going on is not a major issue? Will that 1 line of fuzziness be a problem for the projector.

Just to clarify, that one line of fuzziness/static is the border of the screen image and the wall (right now my wall is the screen).

Thanks!

What's strange to me is that when I use my rear projection tv with the same cable box, I don't get that fuzziness.If you look very carefully, you will discover that on your RPTV, the entire outside edge (all four sides) are missing compared to your SP4805 image. It is setup to "overscan" the image to ensure that it fills the entire physical RPTV screen. There is image lost on all four sides.

There is no such constraint on the SP4805 - you see every last bit of the picture including those bits lost around the edges of the RPTV image.

Relax. There is nothing wrong. In fact, turn it off and go to a Christmas party.

I am going to be purchasing a 4805 very soon and have some questions.

Can a wall be used for a screen? Like if I coat the wall with a special white glossy paint or something? Just curious because I am adding a basement and am wondering if a screen is necessary.

What is the biggest possible picture I can pull with a 4805 without loosing a lot of quality?

I'm going to use component for my DVD player which is probably the best choice for that, but I have a DishNetwork PVR that is currently hooked up to my Samsung DLP via S-Video. If I hook the PVR up to the 4805 with S-Video will the picture still be good?

Thank you,

I am going to be purchasing a 4805 very soon and have some questions.

Can a wall be used for a screen? Like if I coat the wall with a special white glossy paint or something? Just curious because I am adding a basement and am wondering if a screen is necessary.

What is the biggest possible picture I can pull with a 4805 without loosing a lot of quality?

I'm going to use component for my DVD player which is probably the best choice for that, but I have a DishNetwork PVR that is currently hooked up to my Samsung DLP via S-Video. If I hook the PVR up to the 4805 with S-Video will the picture still be good?

Thank you,

Yes, you can use a white wall and get a great picture (people have been happy with a purple wall :)). I wouldn't paint it a glossy white or you will get some hotspotting from that surface.

Yes, you can use a white wall and get a great picture (people have been happy with a purple wall :)). I wouldn't paint it a glossy white or you will get some hotspotting from that surface.

That's awesome to hear,

Any idea how big of picture I can get with quality with a 4805?

You can get your picture as big as you want as long as you have room in your room. However, many people prefer to have the size of their screen according to their seating distance.

We recommend sitting twice the width of your screen. Sitting any closer means you will see more "screen door effect." Some people are bothered by it but some aren't (including myself). I can sit 1.3x from my screen and love the image.

Thanks cavu for reassuring that there isn't anything wrong with the projector or cable. Its cool being around experts here, because I'm just learning as much as I can!!

Somebody help me out here...what is the set-up of say the Oppo DVD player vs the
Bravo D1?

Just because the Bravo actually pixel maps 1:1 does that necessarily mean it has the better picture?

current set-up: Decent DVD player>Component >4805 Onboard DCDi

Oppo?.. Outboard DCDi> digital > 4805 digital scaler?

Bravo D1/D2? digital > direct pixel map

I am currently using an onkyp SP-502 Universal players component outs to the 4805 and it rivals the picture of my Denon DVD-2900 and that is saying alot.

I am just trying to gauge what sort of differences I might expect from an Oppo or Bravo.

99% of my viewing is mainstream DVDs.

If I hook the PVR up to the 4805 with S-Video will the picture still be good?If the PVR is SD (stanard definition analog), then the S-video will probably be "ok", but if the PVR is HDTV digital, you would be best served to use a better connection, ie. component or DVI/HDMI.

Merry xmas everyone :)

Hey all,

Long time lurker here, I will soon be diving head first into my first PJ and will be getting the 4805. I am in the process of painting the room, it is 11 wide by 18 long. Main seating will be as far back as 13-14ft. with a seat here or there a tad closer when freinds are over. My questions are:

1.The 4805 will be 18 ft back, sitting on a shelf...is that too far back or will it affect PQ any?
2.This is more asking for opinion: for screen size, which would be better at my seating distance(13-14ft) i am leaning towards a 106" diag. (will be DIY screen)


Thx, as you all have already provided a wealth of knowledge.

Merry Christmas,

Z

The 4805 will be 18 ft back [ ... ] screen size, which would be better at my seating distance(13-14ft) i am leaning towards a 106" diag.From 18' back, the smallest image you can throw is 117" diagonal. For a screen that size, your nearest seating should be 17' back (twice the screen width)

For seating at 13', the optimum screen size would be 92" and the projector should be mounted between 11.8' and 14.2' back.

PQ is strictly based on seating distance versus screen size. Your projector is more than bright enough for the image sizes you are contemplating.

I suggest you get the projector and experiment with images size and seating distance before you commit to a given setup.

If I hook the PVR up to the 4805 with S-Video will the picture still be good?


I have a Directv SD PVR and have it hooked up to the 4805. One thing I notice more with the setup is the variance in the picture. You can tell more when they compress the video more. Some times the picture will look good and other times it is OK. We watch a lot of programs from the PVR, well worth doing, I enjoy it a lot.

Hi everyone!

Does anyone know how to run an old nintendo nes (8-bits) on the 4805. When I am trying to connect the nes I only get a unsteady picture. Like the picture is shaking up and down. This is very disturbing and nonplayable. :( I really like that old machine and it would be so nice to play the old games on the big screen. :)

Hope anyone has a solution for this. :)

Ninjaman

Hi,

I will be starting to build a screen for my 4805. Just curious if any of you have made your own, and what you would suggest. I've been checking out the DIY screen forum, and they have great suggestions, but it would be nice to hear specifics m 4805 owners.

I'm battling between just painting a section of my wall or getting something like parkland plastics to lay on the wall, and then maybe paint that. The one thing I know for sure is that I would like to have velvet borders.

Please help on this one: When I use the projector, I see the image, but as I get closer to the wall, I notice a uniform (maybe .5 inch) dark border that goes around the image. Does everyone have that? If I was to build the velvet borders around my projected image, should I build it around the actual image itself or build it around the uniform dark borders that surround the image?

Thanks so much!

I notice a uniform (maybe .5 inch) dark border that goes around the image. Does everyone have that?



Yes, it's normal.

Thanks spyder as usual!

So should I be building the velvet borders on top of the projected image borders, or build the velvet frame at the end edge of those borders? In other words, should the projected borders be part of the actual screen area?

Thanks!

Hi,

I will be starting to build a screen for my 4805. Just curious if any of you have made your own, and what you would suggest. I've been checking out the DIY screen forum, and they have great suggestions, but it would be nice to hear specifics m 4805 owners.

I'm battling between just painting a section of my wall or getting something like parkland plastics to lay on the wall, and then maybe paint that. The one thing I know for sure is that I would like to have velvet borders.

Please help on this one: When I use the projector, I see the image, but as I get closer to the wall, I notice a uniform (maybe .5 inch) dark border that goes around the image. Does everyone have that? If I was to build the velvet borders around my projected image, should I build it around the actual image itself or build it around the uniform dark borders that surround the image?

Thanks so much!I used the RS-MMMaxx-LL formula for my screen on a painted wall and have had many compliments from other FP owners...We love it!

Hi,

I will be starting to build a screen for my 4805. Just curious if any of you have made your own, and what you would suggest. I've been checking out the DIY screen forum, and they have great suggestions, but it would be nice to hear specifics m 4805 owners.

If I was to build the velvet borders around my projected image, should I build it around the actual image itself or build it around the uniform dark borders that surround the image?

Thanks so much!

I'm doing the same thing right now. If your not worried about watching in ambient light, the "correct" do-able board works nice, as does BOC. You'll have to check the diy section for the correct do able product numbers, because it isn't available everywhere.

I have been using a foam board with a grey paint mix similar to ME and Silver Screen, It's good with some things, but it's a little to dark in skin tones and bright outdoor scenes. I'm trying to decide between Maxmudd LL or BFLF lite mixes. I'm leaning towards Maxxmudd LL painted on a bright glossy white tileboard. The tileboard saves having to paint a gloss white basecoat. It should be good with light controll and a little ambient light, or the light resulting from a white walled room. The BF mix is cool, but i would go with a realy light version of it because of how gray it is.

Between a plain white or painted single stage light gray, I prefer plain white with a ND filter. I'm going to paint a screen in about a week and post some impressions.

I'd say build the border around image, blocking out the dark border.

It seems I am getting Terrible Overscan line going constantly down the screen. What could possoble be the problem. I am using the 4805 with the AIW 2006 video card with the resolution of 856x480. I even tried to put the Grey 2 prong adapter in the socket.

Thanks spyder as usual!

So should I be building the velvet borders on top of the projected image borders, or build the velvet frame at the end edge of those borders? In other words, should the projected borders be part of the actual screen area?

Thanks!

I built my BOC frame right to the edge of the image. If your velvet resists light well, you won't even notice the .5" border, sine it's so faint. Just don't use felt, and you should be golden.

It seems I am getting Terrible Overscan line going constantly down the screen. What could possoble be the problem. I am using the 4805 with the AIW 2006 video card with the resolution of 856x480. I even tried to put the Grey 2 prong adapter in the socket.
search the forums for ground loop. It's been discussed about 1 million times. Ja's FAQ has info too.

Hi everyone!

Does anyone know how to run an old nintendo nes (8-bits) on the 4805. When I am trying to connect the nes I only get a unsteady picture. Like the picture is shaking up and down. This is very disturbing and nonplayable. :( I really like that old machine and it would be so nice to play the old games on the big screen. :)

Hope anyone has a solution for this. :)

Ninjaman
I'm not sure how to fix this. My old Genesis does the same thing. Could be an odd refresh rate that the PJ has trouble with, or something. Could also be something making the deinterlacer freak out, since the picture jumps up and down constantly.

My 4805's screen is flashing a tiny bit of white like a flash on a camera just more slight for a blink of an eye randomly throughout anything being shown on the screen. I didn't adjust any settings and for a week before this it was fine. I turned white peaking all the way to 0 and it seems to have quit. But right now I am within the 30 day return and I am scared that it is hardware related. What do you guys think?


i have the same problem. did you find a solution? running 1.13 softare.

i have the same problem. did you find a solution? running 1.13 softare.
run the projector in high power for a few hours. If that doesn't fix it, downgrade the firmware to 1.02. Check Ja's faq as this is addressed about 18 times a week.

I had some bulb flicker and had to run mine in high power for 6 hours before it finally quit. Plus I had the pulse flicker firmware problem and downgrading to 1.02 solved that.

Just a quick note to anyone looking for a DVD player to mate with the 4805 ... I am thoroughly pleased with the OPPO player. I use it in 1080i mode via the DVI out. Very very happy.

I am re-discovering my DVD collection. They never looked this good on my 92-inch screen.

Thats all !

Max

Hi,

Still working on ideas for a screen and the borders. One thing that I totally forgot to consider is that we have 5 cats, which is ridiculous, but they all have their claws and everything. So I'm thinking of just using the wall which gives a nice image right now. But I do want to get some borders no matter what.

Okay, so I measured the image, and it looks fine to our eyes, but it is not exact. My top and bottom lengths are different by 1/16 inch. The sides have a bigger difference with the right side being 1/4 inch longer.

What is causing this and how can I fix it? or do you think that the difference is minute enough not to worry about it?

How would you go about building a frame for it? I think if I was to use a mitre box to cut angles on the ends of the wood, it may not fit right as the image is not perfectly rectangular.

Please help with any ideas.

Thanks!

I notice a uniform (maybe .5 inch) dark border that goes around the imageThe active image area of the SP4805 is that area that lights up when you press the 'BLANK' screen button (assuming you have the blank screen set to White or Blue and not Black ;) )

Some analog sources may give you a smaller image, with a border around it, but you should frame to the full image size.

My top and bottom lengths are different by 1/16 inch. The sides have a bigger difference with the right side being 1/4 inch longer. What is causing this and how can I fix it?Your projector is not lined up exactly to the screen. Check out this Infocus publication (http://www.infocus.com/service/howto/guides/install/keystone_How_To.pdf) for hints on fixing it.

Your frame should be square - the black border will absorb any slight malalignment.

HI all just bought a infocus 4805 and love it also fited a nd2 filter which made the absolute blacks levels even better.

it`s just that i have a screen problem, i have got a pull down all white screen it cost about £50 just a plain white pull down screen nothing special.

I have read on here that the Da-Lite High Contrast Matte White 1.1 gain is the perfect screen for this projector as i am projecting around about 92"

what will this screen do for me,

1 will it increase the brightness abit more, give it more punch without making the absolute blacks levels less black

2 will this screen improve absolute blacks levels.

3 I do not have a light controlled room i watch thii at night with no light in the room at all but my walls are white and so is my ceiling just thought i waould let you know

Q4 what aout the The Gray Screen: High Contrast Cinema Vision (HCCV) this sounds good ???? will it produce better absolute blacks levels but will it also kill the puch level

Q5 can i view the picture from any angle with these screens as i can with my screen now without it changing

thanks

i hope i get some help on this

alos what are your settings for this projector in the menus was just woundering

thanks

I've had a 4805 for about 1 year now. I've got about 1200 hours on the bulb. In the last week or so I'm seeing a yellow and red band going down the right side of the screen. It's noticible on all sources including HDTV and on DVDs. Am I going to have to send it in for service?

i have mine at the back of the room on the ceiling. there's only about 4 inches in the back between wall and pj. the fan seems noisy. is it not getting enough ventilation? i'd hate to push it forward as i can just eek out a 92" image with full zoom

I have read on here that the Da-Lite High Contrast Matte White 1.1 gain is the perfect screen for this projector as i am projecting around about 92"

1. will it increase the brightness abit more, give it more punch without making the absolute blacks levels less black

2. will this screen improve absolute blacks levels.

3. I do not have a light controlled room i watch thii at night with no light in the room at all but my walls are white and so is my ceiling just thought i waould let you know

4. what aout the The Gray Screen: High Contrast Cinema Vision (HCCV) this sounds good ???? will it produce better absolute blacks levels but will it also kill the puch level

5. can i view the picture from any angle with these screens as i can with my screen now without it changing

6. what are your settings for this projector in the menus was just woundering

thanks

1. Since this particular screen has a slight gain to it (and I'm assuming your screen now has no gain), then yes, you see a slight increase in brightness.
Old screen = 24 ft/L New screen = 26.4 ft/L

2. This particular screen is a "grey" screen, so yes, especially considering that you have white walls, then yes it will help your black levels.

4. The HCCV is just the fixed screen version of the HCMW. So, they are supposedly the same screen, one for fixed, one for pulldown. I believe that some here on the forum say that the HCCV has a sheen to it that causes "sparklies" while watching movies. YMMV. I use a 92" HCMW that I am more than happy with. My advice: order samples and see for yourself.

5. Very good viewing angles - no "sweet spot."

6. If running component, then keep RGB gains/offsets at 50, and then order Avia or DVE calibration discs and calibrate your 4805. There are too many variables for us to post our numbers - they are cheap and very easy to use.
If you are running DVI/HDMI, then leave contrast/brightness at 50, and set RGB gains to 58, RGB offsets to 28.5. You still want to calibrate color and tint.
Gamma - choose crt, film, video. I use film. Color temp = 6500K. It is pre-tuned to this setting.

where can you get samples from in the uk for the screen tests

so this screen will give me a brighter picture and a darker black is that what your saying ???? i would of thought a gray screen would darken the whites and dim it to ????

and also the screen name says Matte White 1.1 gain how do you say its gray when the name of the screen says Matte White ???? hows it gray

where can you get samples from in the uk for the screen tests

so this screen will give me a brighter picture and a darker black is that what your saying ???? i would of thought a gray screen would darken the whites and dim it to ????

and also the screen name says Matte White 1.1 gain how do you say its gray when the name of the screen says Matte White ???? hows it gray

No it won't "dim" the whites because your eyes will see the brightest white as pure white against a darker black. This is why we suggest that you do not view the samples side-by-side, but rather against a black backround.

I say it is a grey screen because it is a grey screen. It is not a bright white screen. Why they call it Matte White? Ask them. Don't believe me? Go to Dalite.com and read for yourself. If you are going to second guess the information given to you on the 4805 forum (believe me, these topics have been talked about ad nauseum), then I suggest you do not ask questions.

you might try running it thorough a vcr or receiver? Not sure if that would work, but maybe..

this would be in reference to the nintendo, and genesis question

Can someone tell me the quick answer? What is the optimum resolution output setting for my Bravo D2? I have a hard time seeing the difference between the four choices.

Connection is DVI.

Thanks for any advice gang.

Happy New Year!

DenM3

This weekend I ditched my Infocus pull down for a DIY framed screen. A 91 x 50.5 rectangle. Material cost was about $50. The most expensive part was the remnant of Black Velvet. About three hours of labor. Used black out cloth for the screen portion, and I used the rubbery side. It was ever so slightly gray compared to the cloth side. I figure it will wash up easier too. It looks awesome.

Thanks for all the inspiration guys.

What is the optimum resolution output setting for my Bravo D2? Set the D2 for DVI 852x480 (might be called "DVI Gateway") and 16:9.

Set the SP4805 to "Native" Aspect Ratio and the RGB Gains (3) to 58 and the RGB Offsets (3) to 28.5 - leave all other SP4805 settings at factory default.

Hey guys I am going to go in another direction with this question...
I am basically sold on the 4805 for my "Theater room", but I now had a question about it's functionality for projecting designs for murals.
I create some designs that get close to 25' x25'...The quality obviously doesn't have to be great at this size, but does this PJ have the ability to project loosely to this size?
I imagine it does but I just want to verify! :)

Also,
In my theater I have about 21' from the back wall...and I can set the projector up from anywhere from 21' to 14'.
What is the best distance to set the PJ up for the best combination of size (I can go up to 15 feet wide easily) and quality.

Thanks in advance!

does this PJ have the ability to project loosely to this size?The SP4805 is spec'd to do a 9' wide screen (124" diagonal) and still achieve SMPTE standard brightness on a unity gain screen.

The maximum size you can throw from 21ft is about 12' wide (160" diagnonal). If the screen material was 1.2 gain and you ran the projector in high-power mode, you would maintain a minimum SMPTE brightness of about 12fL. To do the same in low-power mode, the screen gain would have to be 1.5.

SDE will be an issue - normally you want to set the viewing distance at twice the screen width.

Just received my refurb 4805 off ebay.
I have not received my screen yet, so I just placed a VERY wrinkly king size sheet over my wall unit to project on.
Even tho it is not even and very wrinkly, this thing is AWESOME. I can only imagine how good it will look when properly set up and calibrated.
I have it on my coffee table right now, but will be mounting it upside down in a 20" high box frame I made sitting on top of my 72" book case, firing 14-15' @ a 92" dalite spectra Vision tripod screen.
Will be doing the mounting and setup on Friday.
Just feeding it with my Cable HDTV box @ 1080i and looks GREAT.
Fan noise a non issue btw for those that are wondering.

Altho I did not think it would, it DID come with a remote, but their were some small visible signs that it had been used before and was no doubt a refurb.

Mine came with the M1-vga cable. Is that what they usually come with?

VERy happy with this purchase so far!

I thinks it's pretty well established that the SP4805 is a worthy interim projector. I just want to add my $.02 in case this helps a fence-sitter, newbie, or someone worried they're suffering from upgraditus (Like me.) After countless hours of reading page after page of thread after thread, (and yes, extensive searches) I went for the 4805 & handed down my 2-year old SP4800. Like some others have commented, DVDs will not provide the "WOW" effect like the first projector experience. (But still great- much better than 4800/X1) But "WOW" did come to mind when I hooked the 4805 up to my SA8300HD (Adelphia.) This alone justified my purchase. In addition to a stellar ~HD PQ, I no longer have the motion delay? motion blur? issue when watching sports that was becoming intolerable to me. Another BIG plus: my groung loop went away after disconnecting the component cables going from the HD box to my Onkyo AVR & hooking up to the PJ via:
From MonoPrice -
Certified HDMI Cable (24AWG) w/ferrites and net jacket-15ft (Gold Plated)
A monster cable w/o a monster price (Thanks to all the forum contributors for promoting them - quick turnaround - great product) As everyone here probably already knows, RShack no longer carries any HDMI except Monster. I nearly bit.

Then I became consumed by the OPPO to the point of paralysis. Finally pulled the trigger & it's in Fedex system as I write this. I think I have reasonable expectations for the OPPO but I am hoping for a similar PQ boost as I saw from HD cable.

Last comment - I project onto a DIY blackout cloth/black velvet border screen & couldn't be happier. I'm sure I'm giving up something, but it's hard to imagine. maybe someday. (did all the mud, goo, misty blue stuff too - it's BO cloth for me.)

(BTW, I got the M1-HDMI adapter from buy_com after Infocus told me they are back-ordered with mid-Jan eta.)

This weekend I ditched my Infocus pull down for a DIY framed screen. A 91 x 50.5 rectangle. Material cost was about $50. The most expensive part was the remnant of Black Velvet. About three hours of labor. Used black out cloth for the screen portion, and I used the rubbery side. It was ever so slightly gray compared to the cloth side. I figure it will wash up easier too. It looks awesome.

Thanks for all the inspiration guys.

I made the same mistake with my first screen (way back in the day) of using the rubberized side of the BOC. It acutally gets dirtier faster than the cloth side. Don't plan on getting too much out of it either way if you do get dirt, dust, smoke or whatever on it. It's ususally just easier to strip off your velvet and reuse it on a whole new screen, but by then it's typically time to build a new one anyway. That's one great thing about DYI, it's so cheap, it doesn't matter if you have to toss it and build anew.
I will say that those Magic Eraser sponge pads that they sell at any store do the greatest job of cleaning possible. Just don't press too hard, and make sure it's got enough (but not too much) water in it.

Ive had my infocus 4805 for a year or so and I just added an xbox 360 to my system. Although it looks nice, I KNOW that I havent maximized the combo's potential... could it be the brightness settings? contrast? color temp? I know I have different settings for my DVD player and DVI cable box that really made the picture come to life, I would like to do the same for my xbox 360.
SO FOR THOSE READING THIS: what settings have you found to bring this thing to life? Maybe it cant look as good as it does on smaller LCD panels, but Id like to get as close as possible.... please post some advice, or point me in the right direction.
THANKS
mogurf21

Has anyone taken apart the PJ to clean/vacuum the fan and fan area? I purchased my refurb 4805 on Black Friday and had to send it into Infocus as the picture was really dim. Before I shipped it out, checked out the lamp area, which was full of caked-on dust (type that would be on it if it was used for a while), including on the fan and the lamp filters.

Just received it back from Infocus & found they replaced the lamp but didn't do any cleaning. Is it important I clean this area which would be alot of work as I would have to take apart the whole PJ, but I also don't want to leave it like this if its going to shorten the life of the new lamp. Thanks.

Sychan, if you are comfortable with it then take it apart and blow it out.

I got mine on BF too, I took it down to the inside of the lightbox ...well worth the effort.

The trick is , afterwards don't go blowing on the projector until you are ready to go back inside again....should not be for thousands of hours.

You'll just need to clean the lamp every 250 hrs or so.

Really difficult question, but I'm sure this is the place for it.

My Xbox 360. It can output in 1080i and 720p.

Which resolution should I send to the InFocus SP4805? I know it downscales to 854x480, but it definitely looks better, I just can't exactly determine which is better, since comparisons need to be made about 5 minutes apart.

Can anyone help me with this?

Try 1080i for a few days, then go to 720p for a few days and se which you like better.

Since they both downcovert to 480p, their probably is little to no difference as you mention.
If you really can't tell which you like better, then I guess it doesn't matter which you leave it on.

Since the ND2 filter ppears to be threaded, does it screw onto the 4805 lense or is it just kind of placed on it?

kind of placed on it, put I think since there is a ridge, it kind of acts like a single thread.

Thanks.

Fishpoker

Once you decide on your size screen, if you are going above 120", then I highly recommend you check out a Vutec Silverstar Screen. Will net you 3.0 gain. You also need to check out the viewing cones on any high gain screen to make sure it will work out with your seating arrangements.

Atta boy GENO! Me...still Kickin' monitoring this thread! ;) Belated Merry X-Mas.

For ATI or if you still want to use powerstrip, then here are the timings for 848x480-47.952 Hz, courtesy of DaGamePimp, who seemingly has dissappeared:

PowerStrip timing parameters:
848x480=848,24,88,96,480,1,3,13,25167,2304

Generic timing details for 848x480:
HFP=24 HSW=88 HBP=96 kHz=24 VFP=1 VSW=3 VBP=13 Hz=48

I have since switched to 72Hz, which you can manually type into Powerstrip as 71.928 Hz.Has anyone else tried the bolded timing parameters with Powerstrip? I tried it on my 9600 and it looked like crap.

When I first got the 4805 I first tried it with a junky DVD player via component and it looked great. I had a really hard time seeing any rainbows.

Recently I hooked it up to my HTPC via VGA (Powerstrip CRT RPTV timings, 1440x960i) and saw rainbows all over the place, every time I moved my eyes across the screen. Going back to the DVD player, the rainbows are gone.

I'm sure it has to do with the refresh rate. Is there a preferred one such as the 72Hz stated above?

X

First, you can only pixel-map via DVI. And you can only use 848x480 via DVI. Also, you must put the 4805 in Native AR.

As for the refresh rate, you can just manually type in 71.928 Hz into Powerstrip if you wish to try it.

Thanks. I should have added that it wasn't in DVI, got a converter on its way so I'll be able to use DVI.

I didn't think there would be such a difference between VGA and DVI though. I thought DVI would just be sharper due to pixel-mapping, but this was really bad. Much worse than any other semi-standard resolution I've tried via VGA.

I will try 71.926Hz. And the above-mentioned Powerstrip timing was 47.952Hz. How do we know which ones to try? And are rainbows largely a function of refresh rates? I suppose I'll know for sure after I try some different ones tonight.

Thanks. I should have added that it wasn't in DVI, got a converter on its way so I'll be able to use DVI.

I didn't think there would be such a difference between VGA and DVI though. I thought DVI would just be sharper due to pixel-mapping, but this was really bad. Much worse than any other semi-standard resolution I've tried via VGA.

I will try 71.926Hz. And the above-mentioned Powerstrip timing was 47.952Hz. How do we know which ones to try? And are rainbows largely a function of refresh rates? I suppose I'll know for sure after I try some different ones tonight.

I must mention that many dvi/vga converters only convert vga to dvi-a (analog). The real converters that convert vga to dvi-d (digital) can get a little pricey.

If you haven't done any calibration with a calibration dvd like AVIA, DVE, or THX then I would suggest doing so. If you are going to do VGA, I'd suggest doing 1280x720 (this will show up as 720p).

I believe at 72hz, the color wheel slows to 3x.

I use 1280x720 using vga at 60hz with a AIW 9600xt. Any other resolution wouldn't fit properly or looked really really dark. I did have it at 72hz but I downgraded the software and now 72hz does the really dark problem. But I did find a post that at 60hz the color wheel spins the fastest and you should see less rainbows which is what happened for me. I see rainbows pretty easily and at 60hz I rarely see them.

I'm having a strange problem with my 4805 (or maybe my cable box-motorola 6412). I thought I would ask some experts . I have it hooked up with a DVI-D cable to my Infocus 4805. It works fine until I watch a DVD (by switching inputs to the component selection) which I have hooked up with the component cables. If I watch the movie for a long time (we'll say about an hour) when I switch back over to the 6412 and the DVI connection the picture comes up for only about a second them goes blank. This only happens if I don't use the DVI connection for a considerable amount of time. If I just switch back and forth within a couple of minutes I do not have the problem. I've tried powering off the 6412, but that doesn't work. If I switch to component (the DVD player) I still have a picture. The only way to resolve this issue I have found is powering down the 4805 and powering it back up (which uses up extra bulb life). Any ideas on how I can resolve this situation? It sucks watching a DVD and not being able to watch TV again without burning up bulb hours. Thanks in advance.

Try 1080i for a few days, then go to 720p for a few days and se which you like better.

Since they both downcovert to 480p, their probably is little to no difference as you mention.
If you really can't tell which you like better, then I guess it doesn't matter which you leave it on.

Yeah, I'm simply trying to find an answer that eases my mind.

Really difficult question, but I'm sure this is the place for it.

My Xbox 360. It can output in 1080i and 720p.

Which resolution should I send to the InFocus SP4805? I know it downscales to 854x480, but it definitely looks better, I just can't exactly determine which is better, since comparisons need to be made about 5 minutes apart.

Can anyone help me with this?

Go with 720P since the XBOX is a true progressive source. You will compromise your vertical source resolution with 1080i whenever there is high contrast motion - which is what video games are! 720P downsamples better to 480P being an even ratio anyways.

I must mention that many dvi/vga converters only convert vga to dvi-a (analog). The real converters that convert vga to dvi-d (digital) can get a little pricey.

If you haven't done any calibration with a calibration dvd like AVIA, DVE, or THX then I would suggest doing so. If you are going to do VGA, I'd suggest doing 1280x720 (this will show up as 720p).

I believe at 72hz, the color wheel slows to 3x.I didn't mean a converter, I meant an adapter. I have a DVI cable, just not the M1 part. I wouldn't bother to convert VGA to DVI.

I know all about calibration and have done some of that, but I'm waiting for DVI before doing the colors. The 4805 was pretty much fine with contrast/brightness, just needed the brightness down a couple of notches. You do that on the projector rather than the HTPC, don't you?

That's interesting about the color wheel slowing at a faster refresh rate. Does it do that physically, or just apparently in relation to the frequency?

So a lower refresh rate seems the way to go. Is there any guidance about what it should be? Is 48Hz as low as it should go?

Go with 720P since the XBOX is a true progressive source. You will compromise your vertical source resolution with 1080i whenever there is high contrast motion - which is what video games are! 720P downsamples better to 480P being an even ratio anyways.

So should I leave my Hi def cable box in 1080i or send a 720p signal to my 4805 when watching HD?

But I did find a post that at 60hz the color wheel spins the fastest and you should see less rainbows which is what happened for me. I see rainbows pretty easily and at 60hz I rarely see them.Interesting. Since I was using interlaced I *think* my refresh rate was at 30Hz (I'm not sure about that). Maybe I should try a lower res like 720p at 60Hz.

I have the 4805. When I connect to a HD source, I can play 1080i via HDMI with no problem.

I just bought the Sony DVP-NS90V that upconverts to 1080i via HDMI. When I set the DVD player to play at 1080i my projector still says it is playing at 480p.

Does anyone know why this is? Like I said through my HD box at 1080i I have no problem, but through the DVD player, I can't get it to display 1080i even though the DVD player says it is pushing the 1080i signal.

I have a friend who has the same set up except he has the Samsung HD-850 and when he upconverts his to 1080i, his projector says it is displaying 1080i, so I know it is possible.

any ideas?

Thanks!

So should I leave my Hi def cable box in 180i or send a 720p signal to my 4805 when watching HD?Most HDTV is in 1080i already so leave it there and minimize the number of conversion steps. 1080i on the Moto 6412 is REALLY nice.

through the DVD player, I can't get it to display 1080i even though the DVD player says it is pushing the 1080i signal.Why bother??!! Please explain the benefit of converting 480i to 1080i just for the projector to convert it back to 480p.

I have the 4805. When I connect to a HD source, I can play 1080i via HDMI with no problem.

I just bought the Sony DVP-NS90V that upconverts to 1080i via HDMI. When I set the DVD player to play at 1080i my projector still says it is playing at 480p.

Does anyone know why this is? Like I said through my HD box at 1080i I have no problem, but through the DVD player, I can't get it to display 1080i even though the DVD player says it is pushing the 1080i signal.

I have a friend who has the same set up except he has the Samsung HD-850 and when he upconverts his to 1080i, his projector says it is displaying 1080i, so I know it is possible.

any ideas?

Thanks!

I believe this is an issue with the Sony dvd player. The player will detect the type of display it is connected to and see that the 4805 is an edtv projector and will only output 480p.

Why bother??!! Please explain the benefit of converting 480i to 1080i just for the projector to convert it back to 480p.


I know some think that there is no benefit, but I have it so I might as well use it.

It's nice to have options.

I believe this is an issue with the Sony dvd player. The player will detect the type of display it is connected to and see that the 4805 is an edtv projector and will only output 480p.

Well that stinks!

Does anyone know if the Panny s77 does this as well?

because I think I might go to that DVD player instead.

I know some think that there is no benefit, but I have it so I might as well use it.

It's nice to have options.

In this case it may actually degrade your picture. Upscaling and downscaling both require... scaling... and every step of scaling can reduce PQ. So doing it twice when you cant gain anything is only introducing risk with no benefit.

It would be like recording a tape to CD and then back to tape again... it can't get better and it most likely will get worse.

In this case it may actually degrade your picture. Upscaling and downscaling both require... scaling... and every step of scaling can reduce PQ. So doing it twice when you cant gain anything is only introducing risk with no benefit.

It would be like recording a tape to CD and then back to tape again... it can't get better and it most likely will get worse.


I see your point....but then why do companies offer it, if it is worse than the original?

I see your point....but then why do companies offer it, if it is worse than the original?

It sells. People like options.

Also if you have a fixed pixel 1080 display it may not do upscaling well so if your DVD player offers upscaling and has a better chip than does your TV you can benefit from it if your TV must display 1080 pixels, much like the faroudja in the 4805 while most dvd players already do progressive.

Well that stinks!

Does anyone know if the Panny s77 does this as well?

because I think I might go to that DVD player instead.

It seems to be mainly an issue with the new sony players.

It sells. People like options.

Also if you have a fixed pixel 1080 display it may not do upscaling well so if your DVD player offers upscaling and has a better chip than does your TV you can benefit from it if your TV must display 1080 pixels, much like the faroudja in the 4805 while most dvd players already do progressive.


Thanks for the info!

I didn't mean a converter, I meant an adapter. I have a DVI cable, just not the M1 part. I wouldn't bother to convert VGA to DVI.

I know all about calibration and have done some of that, but I'm waiting for DVI before doing the colors. The 4805 was pretty much fine with contrast/brightness, just needed the brightness down a couple of notches. You do that on the projector rather than the HTPC, don't you?

That's interesting about the color wheel slowing at a faster refresh rate. Does it do that physically, or just apparently in relation to the frequency?

So a lower refresh rate seems the way to go. Is there any guidance about what it should be? Is 48Hz as low as it should go?

If you are using DVI/M1, then leave contrast/brightness at 50 (default) and put your RGB gains to 58 and your RGB offsets to 28.5. Then your test patterns for contrast/brightness should be perfect. Do any minor adjusting on your HTPC.

I used 48Hz but found that 72Hz gave me smoother playback. Rainbows have always been a non-issue for me. YMMV.

What software DVD player are you using? What video card are using?

put your RGB gains to 58 and your RGB offsets to 28.5This advice only applies to those devices such as STBs and DVD players that output 'studio' video levels (16-235), not computers which output 'PC' levels (0-255).

This advice only applies to those devices such as STBs and DVD players that output 'studio' video levels (16-235), not computers which output 'PC' levels (0-255).

However, if your pc is sending out studio levels (when using VMR9) then you want to use the 58/28.5 gains/offsets. Using video overlay will be using pc levels.

This advice only applies to those devices such as STBs and DVD players that output 'studio' video levels (16-235), not computers which output 'PC' levels (0-255).

Wait... I thought these WERE for PCs and NOT for STB...

your pc is sending out studio levels when using VMR9Good to know. I wasn't aware that VMR9 altered the PC output levels.

This is all assuming that the STB/dvd player is sending the correct Studio levels. If I wanted, I could change the settings in my Oppo dvd player to output pc dvi levels if I wanted to.

If you are using DVI/M1, then leave contrast/brightness at 50 (default) and put your RGB gains to 58 and your RGB offsets to 28.5. Then your test patterns for contrast/brightness should be perfect. Do any minor adjusting on your HTPC.

I used 48Hz but found that 72Hz gave me smoother playback. Rainbows have always been a non-issue for me. YMMV.

What software DVD player are you using? What video card are using?I'm using an ATI 9600 with PowerDVD. Not using VMR9 so I won't need those RGB changes.

I should upgrade my software player soon although my CPU's a little anemic for FFDShow. I'm trying to only make one change at a time right now.

Shouldn't the refresh rate idealy be a multiple of the source's fps? So 48 or 72Hz seems ideal if they don't affect the color wheel speed. (I'd still like to know if ithe color wheel physically slows down at different refresh rates.)

I thought these WERE for PCs and NOT for STBNegative. Bob Williams arrived at the RGB Gain & Offset numbers using a Bravo D1 DVD player. The Moto 6412 STB also uses these levels.

Should the 4805 make any noise at all when it turned off (hard power switch is flipped off)? Mine is making a very faint electrical buzz noise. You almost can't hear it from a couple feet away. Up close it is loudest near where the plug comes into the projector.

What are our lenses made of also? Plastic? I cleaned mine with some camera lens cleaner fluid, and thought it was clean, but a couple hours later I noticed a cloudy film on it while watching a movie.

I'm having a strange problem with my 4805 (or maybe my cable box-motorola 6412). I thought I would ask some experts . I have it hooked up with a DVI-D cable to my Infocus 4805. It works fine until I watch a DVD (by switching inputs to the component selection) which I have hooked up with the component cables. If I watch the movie for a long time (we'll say about an hour) when I switch back over to the 6412 and the DVI connection the picture comes up for only about a second them goes blank. This only happens if I don't use the DVI connection for a considerable amount of time. If I just switch back and forth within a couple of minutes I do not have the problem. I've tried powering off the 6412, but that doesn't work. If I switch to component (the DVD player) I still have a picture. The only way to resolve this issue I have found is powering down the 4805 and powering it back up (which uses up extra bulb life). Any ideas on how I can resolve this situation? It sucks watching a DVD and not being able to watch TV again without burning up bulb hours. Thanks in advance.


I have seen that happen to me too. I also have a Moto 6412 DVR box. It doesn't want to let me use the DVI from the 6412 after watching a DVD unless I turn the 4805 off and back on first.

Anyone?

Some words on the refresh rate issue from Bob Williams, ( I think we can agree the definitive authority on the subject)

Well, as with all features there are some tradeoffs. To preserve colorwheel life, for refresh rates of 62 Hz and higher the color wheel speed drops to 3x, so for instance at 72 Hz the color wheel is spinning at 3x or 6480 rpm. This is in between the speeds for 48 and 60 Hz. At 60 Hz it is spinning at 4x or 7200 rpm and at 48 Hz it spins at 4x or 5760 rpm.

Since the rainbow effect is related to total color refresh rate which is proportional to the color wheel rpm, then you should have the most at 48 Hz, less at 72 Hz, and the least at 60 Hz.

I recommend you use the mode that you like the best.

So should I leave my Hi def cable box in 1080i or send a 720p signal to my 4805 when watching HD?

That is different since the source is interlaced if 1080i - it is best to leave it native - if the source was 1080i let the projector scale it to 480p. If it was 720p ditto. But sometimes you do not have the choice. I prefer 720P because vertical resolution scales better - you may like 1080i because it has more horizontal color resolution.

But stick to 480i for SD channels - the SP4805 is much better than your cable box at deinterlacing - and you do not want to upconvert with a bad scaler only to downconvert. This does mean you need the latest firmware to autosync as you channel surf.

Some words on the refresh rate issue from Bob Williams, ( I think we can agree the definitive authority on the subject)Thanks for that info.

I'm having a little trouble understanding what an "x" and the "total color refresh rate" means though.

At 72Hz, 3x is 6480rpm so 1x = 2160rpm.
At 60Hz, 4x is 7200rpm so 1x = 3600rpm.

???

I'm having a little trouble understanding what an "x" and the "total color refresh rate" means though.1x = 30 per frame.
At 72Hz: 6480/72 = 90 per frame = 3x
At 60Hz: 7200/60 = 120 per frame = 4x

Ok, I think I'm getting it.

At 48Hz it's 5760/48 = 120 per frame = 4x. However I thought the 4805 had a 6x color wheel. Am I wrong about that or is it that speed at some very low refresh rate?

Is the faster the RPM the better for reducing rainbows?

I'm having a strange problem with my 4805 (or maybe my cable box-motorola 6412). I thought I would ask some experts . I have it hooked up with a DVI-D cable to my Infocus 4805. It works fine until I watch a DVD (by switching inputs to the component selection) which I have hooked up with the component cables. If I watch the movie for a long time (we'll say about an hour) when I switch back over to the 6412 and the DVI connection the picture comes up for only about a second them goes blank. This only happens if I don't use the DVI connection for a considerable amount of time. If I just switch back and forth within a couple of minutes I do not have the problem. I've tried powering off the 6412, but that doesn't work. If I switch to component (the DVD player) I still have a picture. The only way to resolve this issue I have found is powering down the 4805 and powering it back up (which uses up extra bulb life). Any ideas on how I can resolve this situation? It sucks watching a DVD and not being able to watch TV again without burning up bulb hours. Thanks in advance.

I am in the same boat, Dust. :confused: Except I can't restore my DVI connection at all. I have tired unplugging the Motorola STB, then the 4805, then powering them up in any order and I still have the same problem. I was curious if you bought the DVI to M1 adaptor that InFocus sells as an accessory, or if you are using an aftermarket cable with a built-in adaptor like me.
When I enter the Moto Menu before powering it up, it doesn't even recognize the DVI input any longer :(

Suggestions anyone, please?

I thought the 4805 had a 6x color wheel....Is the faster the RPM the better for reducing rainbows?The SP4805 is spec'd as 4x. Yes, the faster speeds reduce RBE.

Thanks.

I'll try out 1280x720p @ 60Hz tonight. Then if motion isn't smooth I'll give 72Hz a try.

Anyone using a IR repeater with the 4805? If so, which one and were did you get it. I got a Harmony 880 remote for Christmas and would like to control the PJ with it, but the PJ is to my back when facing the equipment rack.

However, if your pc is sending out studio levels (when using VMR9) then you want to use the 58/28.5 gains/offsets. Using video overlay will be using pc levels.

Which begs the question: why would anyone want to use overlay? Or better yet, who still uses overlay?

Which begs the question: why would anyone want to use overlay? Or better yet, who still uses overlay?

Anyone using HTPC with the free Nero player, WMP-10, PowerDVD, or someone that thinks almost $100 for Theater Tek is just bit much? :D

-W

Yes indeed! My pc is my HTPC, my gaming pc, my music creation pc...you name it.
On the 854x480 topic....as Jason said, dont worry too much about it...it is more of a "YES I DID IT!" thing than a "WOW LOOK AT THE DIFFERENCE!". Yes you get a few extra pixels but clarity is still the same I think even though I think it looks a bit sharper at 854 but that is more than likely, the power of placebo working on me.

For ffdshow users, here are my settings:

Here are my FFDSHOW settings in the order they are setup:

Crop : TOP 56 Borrom 56 (depends on the dvd ratio)
Avysinth : ColorMatrix() this is complex as it involves other stuff installation.
Sharpen : asharp, High Quality checked, unsharp masking threshold .52 and the other two parameters at 0.
Warpsharp : chroma mode NONE, blur mode high quality 3 pass, DEPTH= 64 , Threshold= .99, Blur = 0
RESIZE : Mutiply by 4, No aspect correction checked, Lanczos = 2, luma sharpen = .91, chroma sharpen = 0

As you can see I dont use noise reducers because they ALWAYS, no matter how little, make you lose some detail and thats something I cant afford at 9' wide.

Resize by 4 is pretty demanding on CPU so depending on your system you may have to change that and then compensate by lowering sharpness too.

Here are my PCs specs:
thlon64 3400 Newcastle LBAZC 0451 @ 2778MHZ | Scythe Ninja w Delta 120mm FFB1212VHE 152CFM! | DFI LP NF3 250GB Bios Tmod 6/23 | 2x512MB OCZ PC4000 Gold VX 252 FSB @ 2-2-2-7 | X-Navigator Case | OCZ Powerstream 520W | X-Fi Fatal1ty | BFG 6800GT 415/1100 | 200GB Seagate 7200 | 40 GB Western Digital 7200 | 80GB Samsung 7200 | 3D Glasses | BenQ 1625 Lightscribe |Super Talent Active Ram Cooler |Logitech MX518| Ratzpad GS|Sennheiser HD 212 Pro

Hope that helps you. Some of the settings are probable not doing much but since it was looking so good I decided not to mess with it anymore.
Regards

Hey Luis, which version of ffdshow are you using?




I just got my 4805 from BB, and I'm building a screen, Monkey_Man's PJ mount, etc... The first night I got it, I took it over to my friend's house. He has an AE700, and I was interested in seeing how this little PJ stacked up against his HD PJ. We had some initial difficulty finding a way to get it projecting on his screen correctly, but once we did, I was quite impressed. We played a bit of PGR3 on my 4805 and then switched over to his AE700. We then put some movies in.

Both looked good, but I thought it was a pretty close PQ-wise with the usual advantages of both apparent. It basically came down to rez vs. black level and contrast. I chose to keep the 4805 because I simply didn't see enough difference in PQ between the two to justify paying a restocking fee and then paying $200-$300 more for the AE700. Besides, he was impressed as well. We BOTH lamented losing out on the Black Friday deal though. :(

In fairness, his bulb has almost a 1000 hrs on it so that may have hurt the comparision a bit. I did calibrate his PJ with DVE recently though, so who knows. :)

BTW, I put the PJ in it's approximate final mounting spot and then measured the projected image for my screen dimensions.

No zoom.

I'm measuring ~48 x 84.5". The Infocus calculator says 48 x 85.333". What gives?

Could it be the curvature, or irregularity of my plaster walls skewing my measurements slightly?

I'm measuring ~48 x 84.5". The Infocus calculator says 48 x 85.333"What are you measuring? A displayed image from a computer/STB/DVD or the white/blue 'blank' screen obtained when pressing the "BLANK" button on the remote?

The 'blank' screen is the full active display area. Depending on your source and connection, a projected image may be smaller, ie. have unused columns of pixels on the sides.

A DVI digital source can use the entire display area, dependent on your choice of resolution, ie. an 848x480 HTPC source has 3 columns of dark pixels on each side. A 1080i DVI connection from a Moto STB uses the entire screen.

Is your display area square?? Measure both diagonals - they must be the same. If the projector is not properly aligned to the screen, the display will not be square.

What are you measuring? A displayed image from a computer/STB/DVD or the white/blue 'blank' screen obtained when pressing the "BLANK" button on the remote?

The 'blank' screen is the full active display area. Depending on your source and connection, a projected image may be smaller, ie. have unused columns of pixels on the sides.

A DVI digital source can use the entire display area, dependent on your choice of resolution, ie. an 848x480 HTPC source has 3 columns of dark pixels on each side. A 1080i DVI connection from a Moto STB uses the entire screen.

Is your display area square?? Measure both diagonals - they must be the same. If the projector is not properly aligned to the screen, the display will not be square.


I'm measuring the white blank screen. I don't have any sources hooked up yet. As for the squareness, yeah, it's not square. The bottom of the image is more narrow than the top. I just jake-legged the PJ setup so I could get a feel for my mounting options.

I guess the best advice would be to go with Infocus' screen calculator then huh?
Maybe if I'd started on permanently mounting the PJ first I wouldn't be having these questions. :)

And for the record zoom isn't "bad", in fact you need to use a little zoom to leave room for adjustments later.

Should the 4805 make any noise at all when it turned off (hard power switch is flipped off)? Mine is making a very faint electrical buzz noise. You almost can't hear it from a couple feet away. Up close it is loudest near where the plug comes into the projector.

What are our lenses made of also? Plastic? I cleaned mine with some camera lens cleaner fluid, and thought it was clean, but a couple hours later I noticed a cloudy film on it while watching a movie.

Do you have the 4805 connected to a UPS by any chance? If so, then take it off the UPS. Otherwise, I'd try plugging it into a different outlet and see if the noise continues.

I am in the same boat, Dust. :confused: Except I can't restore my DVI connection at all. I have tired unplugging the Motorola STB, then the 4805, then powering them up in any order and I still have the same problem. I was curious if you bought the DVI to M1 adaptor that InFocus sells as an accessory, or if you are using an aftermarket cable with a built-in adaptor like me.
When I enter the Moto Menu before powering it up, it doesn't even recognize the DVI input any longer :(

Suggestions anyone, please?

I bought my adapter from monoprice.com. One guy on the HDTV Recorders & Players forum said this:

I have a similar issue with DVI out of my computer to HDMI into my Sony HDTV. It's an issue with the video display card in the computer.

Until I change the card, un-plugging it from the TV and re-plugging it brings back the picture.

If I remember correctly I tried unplugging it from the 4805 and it didn't fix the problem. I have such a better picture with the DVI I would hate to have to go back to a component connection. One of the experts here has to have the solution :)

I just ordered a refurb projector from infocus, and now they sent me an email saying the M1 to component video adapter is backordered. I can't use the thing with my dvd player (a philips dvp642)until I get one of these.

Can anyone point me towards an alternate source for the adapter?


Thanks!

I just ordered a refurb projector from infocus, and now they sent me an email saying the M1 to component video adapter is backordered. I can't use the thing with my dvd player (a philips dvp642)until I get one of these.

Can anyone point me towards an alternate source for the adapter?


Thanks!

Why not just use the component input that is already on the 4805? If you have more than one component devices, use a component switch. You can get them as cheap as $25.

Besides, you do not want to use the m1 to component with the philips, the philips deinterlacer is pretty crappy compared to the faroudja used by the 4805. Send 480i from the philips using the 4805's component input. Using the m1 to component adapter means you must use 480p from your dvd player as the 4805 does not correctly process 480i via the m1 input.

I am in the same boat, Dust. :confused: Except I can't restore my DVI connection at all. I have tired unplugging the Motorola STB, then the 4805, then powering them up in any order and I still have the same problem. I was curious if you bought the DVI to M1 adaptor that InFocus sells as an accessory, or if you are using an aftermarket cable with a built-in adaptor like me.
When I enter the Moto Menu before powering it up, it doesn't even recognize the DVI input any longer :(

Suggestions anyone, please?


I had similar problems, But I was hooking up a DVD player with HDMI/DVI cable to M1 adapter.

I have my cable TV coming in via component.

I went throught three DVD players that did the same blank screen thing (and length of time in between like DUST mentions.) I figured it was the HDCP of the players, and that was shutting down the signal as soon as a DVD started. My other theory was that any "p" (progressive scan) modes of the DVD player caused the handshake to misfire.

I called Infocus about this too, and they were not really any help. They thought it was my DVI run length (which is 25ft), but that is incorrect, since it works fine with my Bravo. Upgrade to latests firmware did not help either.

I ended up getting a Bravo D2 that has a real DVI output. I have had no problems since.

Do the cable/dish set top boxes have HDCP?


Good luck!

Why not just use the component input that is already on the 4805? If you have more than one component devices, use a component switch. You can get them as cheap as $25.

Besides, you do not want to use the m1 to component with the philips, the philips deinterlacer is pretty crappy compared to the faroudja used by the 4805. Send 480i from the philips using the 4805's component input. Using the m1 to component adapter means you must use 480p from your dvd player as the 4805 does not correctly process 480i via the m1 input.

I agree. I picked up a DVP642 (awesome recommendation by you AVS guys!!!) last month and use the component inputs (sending 480i). It works great! I still need to calibrate with DVE/Avia but I am definitely impressed with the component connection. I expected much worse since I was previously using the DVI connection from my PC when watching DVDs.

On a different note, I also recently added a Comcast (Motorola) HD converter to my arsenal (connected via component too) and I couldn't believe how great the scaling quality (1080i source) was. I didn't think it was going to look as good as it did. I mainly watch ESPN HD / sporting events. The 55" Sony LCD HDTV I was planning on getting is slowly working it's way down the list now. I can't believe how much value I got for $850 ($700 for projector + $150 for DA Lite HCMW screen). The projector was initially slated to be a weekend warrior. It has since become a daily.

Anyone using HTPC with the free Nero player, WMP-10, PowerDVD, or someone that thinks almost $100 for Theater Tek is just bit much? :D

-W

So I didn't convert you, heh? ;) How about Zoomplayer with the dscaler codecs, or maybe ZP with the NVidia codecs?

Go with 720P since the XBOX is a true progressive source. You will compromise your vertical source resolution with 1080i whenever there is high contrast motion - which is what video games are! 720P downsamples better to 480P being an even ratio anyways.

So, I should stick with 720p, even if a game supports true 1080i? I'm basically wondering if the extra detail simply won't be apparent due to the conversion.

I'd rather have a smooth picture than have to worry about scaling and interlacing.

If a source can support both 720p and 1080i, which will look better when scaled on the 4805?

So far I am batting .1000 on my questions thru the Forum! :D

My newest question is regarding painting my "screen" on the front wall for the 4805.
All of the walls in my HT room are white, so I will be painting all of the walls and cieling a darker color.
Do I have to go to a black, or does paiting it a darker color work just as well (say a dark blue)?
Also, should the walls be painted with flat or glossy paint?
That may be the dumbest ? of all time, but I'd rather not ass-u-me. :p

Final question regarding painting the screen.
I've looked thru the DIY Screen section a bunch, and haven't found the concrete information I am looking for!
What is the best color/formula to paint the screen section.
I'd rather not go with the good, and go the DIY route! :D

Thanks in advance again from the super-noob.

Do the cable/dish set top boxes have HDCP?




Yes, they do. Indeed, that's how the whole thing started.
I was doing fine with my DVI from cable box to 4805 with a DVI cable that I bought on eBay that has the m1 connection at the other end. But then that dang "The HD Content Protection of your Display Device Has Been Compromised" message began appearing on the menu screen of the set top box. Since then I've received NO signal thru the DVI cable, presumably because the box "got suspicious" and disabled it.
...Maybe its my frustration talking or Motorola's set top boxes aren't ready for it, but it seems to me that the whole HDCP scheme still is not ready for prime time yet. At least from a user-friendly connectivity standpoint.
Has anyone had any luck leaving the STB and PJ unplugged, say overnight, before trying to re-establish their DVI handshake?

Yes, they do. Indeed, that's how the whole thing started.
I was doing fine with my DVI from cable box to 4805 with a DVI cable that I bought on eBay that has the m1 connection at the other end. But then that dang "The HD Content Protection of your Display Device Has Been Compromised" message began appearing on the menu screen of the set top box. Since then I've received NO signal thru the DVI cable, presumably because the box "got suspicious" and disabled it.
...Maybe its my frustration talking or Motorola's set top boxes aren't ready for it, but it seems to me that the whole HDCP scheme still is not ready for prime time yet. At least from a user-friendly connectivity standpoint.
Has anyone had any luck leaving the STB and PJ unplugged, say overnight, before trying to re-establish their DVI handshake?


I'd get on the phone with Motorolla.....the bastards!

add Toshiba and Samsung HDMI players to the "might work on Tuesday night" list too!

Good luck

DenM3

So far I am batting .1000 on my questions thru the Forum! :D


Do I have to go to a black, or does paiting it a darker color work just as well (say a dark blue)?
Also, should the walls be painted with flat or glossy paint?
.

I just did my room in a deep red, sort of a burgundy. (Behr "Roasted Pepper" to be exact! :o ) I used a step above flat, ...flat enamel. Ceiling is light, light yellow, sort of an egg nog color with a wall mounted screen. I don't think you need to go too far to the Dark Side! :eek:
I think there's a thread for screen construction that can help with your other issue. Screen-Goo is one product.
Good Luck!

hmmm, I guess I didn't do enough research. I wasn't aware that there was already component video inputs on the projector. I thought it just had the M1 port and everything had to go through that hence the different converters they suggested when I ordered it. So I should be fine with just the projector, three rca cables, and my dvd player.

What is the best color/formula to paint the screen section.
I'd rather not go with the good, and go the DIY route! :D

Thanks in advance again from the super-noob.

I used the Behr Silver Screen paint on a piece of primed sheet rock and it came out fine. The picture looked very close to the PQ I'm getting from my 106" graywolf

hmmm, I guess I didn't do enough research. I wasn't aware that there was already component video inputs on the projector. I thought it just had the M1 port and everything had to go through that hence the different converters they suggested when I ordered it. So I should be fine with just the projector, three rca cables, and my dvd player.

I thought that may have been the case. The older Infocus 4800 (aka Infocus X1) did not have component inputs and needed the svideo to component or vga to component adapter. I'm hoping you got the 4805 and not the 4800. :)

aw hold up, what is this about no 480i through the M1 input :(

so this means that there would be no way to 1:1 pixel map from a DVD player thru 480i and keep it 100% digital? :(

this means that there would be no way to 1:1 pixel map from a DVD player thru 480i and keep it 100% digital?You're talking about several things at once here:

There are only three DVD players that can "1:1 pixel-map" at the moment - the Bravo D1/D2, the Momitsu V880 and the SnaZio. They do that by providing an explicit pixel-map over DVI/HDMI, ie. 852x480 pixels. You can also do it with an HTPC with a DVI connector and the right software.

480i is not pixel-mapping, by any definition. Neither is 480p, 720p or 1080i. Neither are VGA, or component, or S-video or composite connections.

The SP4805 does not accept 480i/576i via the M1-DA port. The builtin Faroudja processor is not active on the M1 port, only the discrete analog ports. The M1-DA digital port will accept 480p, 576p, 720P and 1080i as well as various VGA resolutions but none of those are "1:1 pixel-maps".

You cannot successfully feed 480i/576i to the SP4805 in a digital format. Infocus specifies that the M1 port is "progressive only".

That's odd, when I had my LG LDA-511 connected via HDMI to my 4805, I set the player to 480i, and when I went into the projector's menu, it confirmed that it was receiving a 480i signal.

But aside from that, would it be better to send a 1:1 pixel-mapped signal to the 4805, or a 480i signal?

I can also send 480i, 1080i, 720p or 480p from my ATSC HD tuner to the M1 port, but they all look the same.

How in the world are you guys sending a 480i signal through the M1 port. I had tried using the Xbox via component to M1 - but the start-up menu was scrambled because it was 480i - it would only clear up once the game started. So I got a switcher.

I cannot send a 480i signal from my SA3250 to my 4805 via the M1.

Are you guys SURE it is 480i, in that the source does not automatically switch somehow to progressive?

I just ordered my Comcast HD digital cable and I have a 4805. One problem I have is. I use my Pioneer 1014 receiver to switch my component sources. I only have 2 inputs on the receiver which are being used by my DVD player and Xbox360. If i use the M1 port on the 4805 for HD television, what do I do about standard def channels if the 4805 does not accept 480i through the M1? Will I just need to add a switcher to my system and run it with component?

I am in the same boat, Dust. :confused: Except I can't restore my DVI connection at all. I have tired unplugging the Motorola STB, then the 4805, then powering them up in any order and I still have the same problem. I was curious if you bought the DVI to M1 adaptor that InFocus sells as an accessory, or if you are using an aftermarket cable with a built-in adaptor like me.
When I enter the Moto Menu before powering it up, it doesn't even recognize the DVI input any longer :(

Suggestions anyone, please?

I got home tonight after considering the problem and worked around a possible solution. If you turn off the 6412 prior to switching over to your component video connection you can get your DVI connection back by flipping back over to your DVI on your 4805 and then powering up the 6412.

Example I did tonight. Left 6412 off (actually by accident). Watched Die Harder on DVD. Then realized 6412 wasn't turn on. Thought to myself this might be a work around. So I flipped my 4805 to DVI and powered up the 6412. Now I'm watching the Heat Vs. Piston in TNT in HD. Sweet, again this is only a work around. At least it is something to work with though. I think a better work around might be able to be devised, but not by me tonight. I'll gotta get up at 4am tomorrow. I'm going to enjoy the game a little longer. I hope this helps everyone at least a little.

If i use the M1 port on the 4805 for HD television, what do I do about standard def channels if the 4805 does not accept 480i through the M1?Set the Comcast DCT6412 DVI output to 1080i and the 4:3 Override to "OFF" (or 480p but it doesn't look as good, IMHO).

I just ordered my Comcast HD digital cable and I have a 4805. One problem I have is. I use my Pioneer 1014 receiver to switch my component sources. I only have 2 inputs on the receiver which are being used by my DVD player and Xbox360. If i use the M1 port on the 4805 for HD television, what do I do about standard def channels if the 4805 does not accept 480i through the M1? Will I just need to add a switcher to my system and run it with component?

As cavu said, set the box to output 1080i and the override to off. I prefer it set up this way. If you set the override to something else, the projector will have to resync when you change to non HD channels. With override set to off, the box always outputs 1080i (or 720p if you choose to use that instead but most people seem to use 1080i to the 4805 from their cable boxes).

Do you have the 4805 connected to a UPS by any chance? If so, then take it off the UPS. Otherwise, I'd try plugging it into a different outlet and see if the noise continues.


Nope, no ups. Tried a couple different outlets, still hear the buzz near the power switch area. I wonder, if it's leaking a little power through (sounds like it might be), and if it's bad for the machine :confused: ? I'm just starting to get a good picture too with a new screen.

Any ideas about the lens? Plastic? Good cleaner?

most people seem to use 1080i to the 4805 from their cable boxes.The reason is: most HDTV is native 1080i.

It is better that the SP4805 downconvert once to 480p from 1080i than having the STB downconvert 1080i to 720p and then downconverting the 720p again in the SP4805 to 480p.

If anyone wants a followup, I tried many different resolutions/refresh rates on my HTPC yesterday. Using the Avia resolution patterns I found 1440x960i @ 72Hz to be the best setting with PowerStrip and ATI 9600 VGA.

Rainbows were minimal at that refresh rate and motion was smooth. I'm going to do some more testing at 60Hz to see if I can get smooth motion because, if you tried hard to see it, there was still a bit of rainbow visible at 72Hz.

Nope, no ups. Tried a couple different outlets, still hear the buzz near the power switch area. I wonder, if it's leaking a little power through (sounds like it might be), and if it's bad for the machine :confused: ? I'm just starting to get a good picture too with a new screen.

Any ideas about the lens? Plastic? Good cleaner?

What about connecting it to a good surge protector that is feeding it clean power? I'd get a wierd buzz when my UPS is using it's battery with the 4805 off, I'm guessing that the power isn't clean. If that's not the case, I'd recommend contacting infocus with your issue.

I got home tonight after considering the problem and worked around a possible solution. If you turn off the 6412 prior to switching over to your component video connection you can get your DVI connection back by flipping back over to your DVI on your 4805 and then powering up the 6412.

Example I did tonight. Left 6412 off (actually by accident). Watched Die Harder on DVD. Then realized 6412 wasn't turn on. Thought to myself this might be a work around. So I flipped my 4805 to DVI and powered up the 6412. Now I'm watching the Heat Vs. Piston in TNT in HD. Sweet, again this is only a work around. At least it is something to work with though. I think a better work around might be able to be devised, but not by me tonight. I'll gotta get up at 4am tomorrow. I'm going to enjoy the game a little longer. I hope this helps everyone at least a little.

This exact issue (at least very similar) with my SA8300 HD DVR from Time Warner over DVI is what led me initially to find a dvi dvd player (OPPO) and now I run my 8300 over component and everything works fine.

I had huge HDCP issues between my cable box and the 4805. If I forgot to turn off my cable box when I switched the 4805 over to the component input, it would lock the HDCP up and lock out the pj. Only a reboot of the box would fix it.

Time Warner and SA had no input or help- my Time Warner tech had only seen one other pj install in the whole area, so just didn't get what I was trying to tell him. Since component on the hd box looks great, I switched inputs to use the DVI on the OPPO, and have never looked back. . .

Wes

I just ordered my Comcast HD digital cable and I have a 4805. One problem I have is. I use my Pioneer 1014 receiver to switch my component sources. I only have 2 inputs on the receiver which are being used by my DVD player and Xbox360. If i use the M1 port on the 4805 for HD television, what do I do about standard def channels if the 4805 does not accept 480i through the M1? Will I just need to add a switcher to my system and run it with component?

Get the xbox360 vga adapter, people are saying it looks better than component and use the m1 to vga adapter to the 4805. You'll only be playing games at 480p, 720p, 1080i anyway, so you can use the component input for your hd cable that uses 480i, 720p/1080i.

There seems to be a lot of issues with dvi/hdmi and hdcp for many people outside the 4805 also. There seems to be a problem with both the digital source and digital input about the handshaking going on. I'm guessing these problems won't be fixed until hdmi 1.3 is out where they will probably use a new hdmi connector (but this is just my guess).

The reason is: most HDTV is native 1080i.

It is better that the SP4805 downconvert once to 480p from 1080i than having the STB downconvert 1080i to 720p and then downconverting the 720p again in the SP4805 to 480p.


Here in Orlando (http://www.orlandodigital.tv/index.htm), two of the 4 big locals use 1080i and the other two use 720p whereas most others use 480i. I really don't know what the best option would be since my ATSC tuner has a hard switch at the back.

So I didn't convert you, heh? ;) How about Zoomplayer with the dscaler codecs, or maybe ZP with the NVidia codecs?

Yes Geno, I came away from it totally believing in Theater-Tek - but not $100 worth of belief. At least not until I have a totally spare $100 floating around that I would not prefer to spend on a couple of 8 pound lobsters and 6 ears of corn. :)

IMHO any HTPC software player that can be properly BtB,WtW, and color calibrated is "close enough" for 99.5% of the people to not be able to tell the difference. I say this in light of the fact that IMHO the theory of diminishing returns kicks in - and the transfer quality becomes more of an issue than the finer nuances of the player software.

I also feel the same way about DVE or AVIA. 99.5% of the people using overlay can also use the THX Optimizer and get the thing 99.5% of dead nuts on. Again I've seen "light or dark transfer issues" superceed any trouble caused by one click on a setting.

That said......... were it not for those here striving for "perfect" the rest of us would have no clues to start with.

-W

Get the xbox360 vga adapter, people are saying it looks better than component and use the m1 to vga adapter to the 4805. You'll only be playing games at 480p, 720p, 1080i anyway, so you can use the component input for your hd cable that uses 480i, 720p/1080i.


Thats a great idea. Now I will have to buy the Xbox 360 VGA cable, but then I need a 25ft long Male VGA to M1 cable. Any thoughts where I can find this? Checked Ebay and nothing of that length. Cheapest I found so far for 25' was like $63 @ cablestogo


Thanks
Dave

Thats a great idea. Now I will have to buy the Xbox 360 VGA cable, but then I need a 25ft long Male VGA to M1 cable. Any thoughts where I can find this? Checked Ebay and nothing of that length. Cheapest I found so far for 25' was like $63 @ cablestogo


Thanks
Dave

I bought a 25ft vga cable that I had connected from my pc to the 4805's bundled m1 to vga adapter and had no issues with that. I don't remember where I bought it but just make sure it is good quality with shielding. Only cost $20. Maybe try monoprice.com