So, I should stick with 720p, even if a game supports true 1080i? I'm basically wondering if the extra detail simply won't be apparent due to the conversion.

I'd rather have a smooth picture than have to worry about scaling and interlacing.

If a source can support both 720p and 1080i, which will look better when scaled on the 4805?

I could be wrong - but it is my understanding that 1080i on XBOX is supported by scaling and interlacing. Interlace is a foreign technology to computers - you will lose resolution. Maybe you should ask in the HT gaming forum next door - DaGamePimp will for sure know - he was the first one in line for the XBOX360 around these parts!

I bought a 25ft vga cable that I had connected from my pc to the 4805's bundled m1 to vga adapter and had no issues with that. I don't remember where I bought it but just make sure it is good quality with shielding. Only cost $20. Maybe try monoprice.com


Wow monoprice has great prices. 25ft VGA cable is only $5. The M1-VGA is only $13 but not in stock till 1/27

Ill grab the M1 to VGA. If i buy a long VGA and use the m1-VGA wire that comes with the 4805 then I will be linking 3 cables together for my xbox which Im not sure if it would affect quality or no?

I thought that may have been the case. The older Infocus 4800 (aka Infocus X1) did not have component inputs and needed the svideo to component or vga to component adapter. I'm hoping you got the 4805 and not the 4800. :)

Now there is a market opportunity - a stack of long dead SP4800's - and a paint stencil to change the 0 to a 5 to mark them up!

Now there is a market opportunity - a stack of long dead SP4800's - and a paint stencil to change the 0 to a 5 to mark them up!


Beautiful !! :D

-W

For those that have their 4805 hooked up to a computer and like gaming, I recommend Need For Speed: Most Wanted. Kick ass on my 78" screen. :) I assume there is a version of this game for game systems as well.

For those that have their 4805 hooked up to a computer and like gaming, I recommend Need For Speed: Most Wanted. Kick ass on my 78" screen. :) I assume there is a version of this game for game systems as well.

yes, its avail for all consoles. I have it for xbox 360, pretty good game

Any ideas about the lens? Plastic? Good cleaner?

gprro1,

The lens is glass, go to your local walmart that has an Optical store in it and by some Zeiss lens cleaning patches for glasses. they do a nice job and they are cheap! they do not leave any residue.

Hope that helps,

Homer :)

So what signal is best to feed a 4805, a 1:1 pixel mapped image or 480i image?

Pixel mapped............... but 480i isn't at all shabby.

-W

OK guys, I’m confused. I have a new 4805 that replaced my X1. For the X1, I had a composite cable, an S-Video cable, and a VGA cable run in the ceiling. I bought a component and a hdmi cable to use for my HDTivo and DVB318 DVD player. I thought I would just use my VGA cable as a pull and pull the new cables through. Tried it, and no go, wouldn’t budge. I knew I might have a problem, they were a pain to run originally.

So, I am thinking of buying component to VGA adapters for both ends of my VGA cable. Will this work? The main problem with this is that I can’t find any male component to female VGA adapter/cables. For the projector end, can I use the M1 connection with the supplied VGA to M1 adapter, or is that just for computer source inputs? Thanks for your help.

I hooked my new 4805 last night - I bought it at BB with a 2 year manufacturers warranty (18 months 0%).

I am shooting it onto my blank front white wall...with all white walls and a white ceiling.

1 word: SPECTACULAR.

I am completely clueless, and thru this Forum I was able to hack it out, and actually get it to work on my first try. :)
If that doesn't speak to the ease of set-up for this PJ, then nothing will! :D



Quick question:

Would it be beneficial to have a small fan turned on and blowing on the PJ while it is running?

Thanks guys!!!

Quick question:

Would it be beneficial to have a small fan turned on and blowing on the PJ while it is running?

Thanks guys!!!

As long as it is not it a hushbox and has plenty of air circulation around it, don't bother.

I'm glad you like it. I would recommend you buy a copy of Avia or DVE to calibrate your PJ. Makes a world of difference.

you can get your DVI connection back by flipping back over to your DVI on your 4805 and then powering up the 6412.



I just gave that a shot. No go, unfortunately. I can't even pull up the user menu (the one before power-up.)
Incidently, mine is a 6200! I was mistaken!
Anyone have any 4805 DVI issues that are specific to the Moto 6200??

I hooked my new 4805 last night - I bought it at BB with a 2 year manufacturers warranty (18 months 0%).

I am shooting it onto my blank front white wall...with all white walls and a white ceiling.

1 word: SPECTACULAR.

I am completely clueless, and thru this Forum I was able to hack it out, and actually get it to work on my first try. :)
If that doesn't speak to the ease of set-up for this PJ, then nothing will! :D



Quick question:

Would it be beneficial to have a small fan turned on and blowing on the PJ while it is running?

Thanks guys!!!

I agree with geno. If there is plenty of space around the pj, there is no need for the fan. Plus blowing more air into the pj might increase your chances of getting a dust blob!!

Sean

So I have my HTPC running through DVI and want to do a dreamcast through VGA, am I stuck swapping cables or is there some spliiter or something that can handle both being sent to the M1?

Any ideas about the lens? Plastic? Good cleaner?

gprro1,

The lens is glass, go to your local walmart that has an Optical store in it and by some Zeiss lens cleaning patches for glasses. they do a nice job and they are cheap! they do not leave any residue.

Hope that helps,

Homer :)

I must need better cleaning solution. I used lens cleaner for cameras, and it looked perfect until I turned it on later and it was murky/cloudy. I thought it may have been plastic and discolored from the alcohal in the cleaner? I'll try some of the Zeiss, I actualy almost bought some a couple days ago.

Thanks guys, the area is wide open around the PJ, so I'll avoid the fan :)

Quick question regarding the factory settings.
Is the default mode economy mode or bright mode?
How do you check/change?

I hate asking such a dumb question, but I can't seem to find the answer?

Thanks again guys...this bad boy is PERFECT for the Bowl Season!!! :)

Edit: Look below.

Go into the About menu, then settings. "High" power should NOT be checked.Close. therealgeno has apparently already started his new Year celebrations ... ;)

It's under Main Menu >> Settings >> System and the "Low Power" box should be checked.

Anyone run into this yet?

If the picture has excessive brightness or a bright flash in the scene, the 4805 looses the signal and re-synchs.

This only happens if I'm using the interlaced signal from the DVD player.

The progressive signal does not causes this issue.

Any thoughts......thanks?!

Anyone run into this yet?

If the picture has excessive brightness or a bright flash in the scene, the 4805 looses the signal and re-synchs.

This only happens if I'm using the interlaced signal from the DVD player.

The progressive signal does not causes this issue.

Any thoughts......thanks?!


Try adjusting the "sync threshold" under advanced picture settings. See if moving it up or down would help.

I'm putting together my first HTPC for the 4805. Will all Geforce 6600 GPU's work to display HDTV, or is it necessary that they are capable of HDTV for TV OUT?

example under ports:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16814108143

Is this option only necessary if you are using s-video?
Obviously, I would like to use DVI out and will I need DVI-I, or a DVI-D cable( to M1)?

I'm putting together my first HTPC for the 4805. Will all Geforce 6600 GPU's work to display HDTV, or is it necessary that they are capable of HDTV for TV OUT?

example under ports:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16814108143

Is this option only necessary if you are using s-video?
Obviously, I would like to use DVI out and will I need DVI-I, or a DVI-D cable( to M1)?

There are many HTPC users using the 6600 so go for it. Svideo is only limited to 480i so you should not use it. You need component/vga/dvi for HDTV resolutions. We recommend using DVI in order to pixel map to the 4805. You will need the m1 to dvi-d adapter.

I'm putting together my first HTPC for the 4805. Will all Geforce 6600 GPU's work to display HDTV, or is it necessary that they are capable of HDTV for TV OUT?

example under ports:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16814108143

Is this option only necessary if you are using s-video?
Obviously, I would like to use DVI out and will I need DVI-I, or a DVI-D cable( to M1)?

Looking at setting up a HTPC as well. I was also looking at the 6600. I think that is a good lower/mid end card for HDTV. Decided to go with one of the 6150 motherboards. The performance of this is about on par with the 6800 card series, has no fan and can be purchased for less than $100.

Purchased the DVI to M1 cable from MonoPrice. It just came the other day and it looks like a great cable.

BTW I thought I saw a 6600 card without a fan if noise is an issue for your setup. I think eVGA makes one but I could not find it.

what is the best way to shut this projector down as when i use the remote it takes about 1 min to shut down which i know is normal to cool the lamp down but the thing is the projector fan still run in very very low power is this normal.

is it ok to power it of with the switch at this point ?????

also i read about the 5x colour wheel in the infocus 5700 i demod a 4805 and 5700
the 4805 6col x4 speed
the 5700 6col 5x speed

strange i saw alot more rainbow on the 5700 than the 4805 wounder why that is i thought faster wheels produce less rainbow ???? the only thing i could think of is that the projector was brighter than the 4805 and that the extra brightness casues the rainbow to ?????

if this is the case a 7 colour wheel might work better i dont know i know the 7210 has a 7col 5x wheel but i have not seen one wounder how the rainbow looks on thta on

what is the best way to shut this projector down as when i use the remote it takes about 1 min to shut down which i know is normal to cool the lamp down but the thing is the projector fan still run in very very low power is this normal.

is it ok to power it of with the switch at this point ?????


I like to shut it off after the fan slows down but they say you can just shut the power switch off and that is OK.

The main thing is not to try to restart the projector until the bulb is cool.

Close. therealgeno has apparently already started his new Year celebrations ... ;)

It's under Main Menu >> Settings >> System and the "Low Power" box should be checked.

Ok, so that was embarrassing - I didn't start drinking till later on last night. Perhaps I should not try to do things by memory - it's been several months since I have even gone into that menu. I'm at the in-laws for the holidays and away from the HT.

Anyway, thanks cavu - sorry for the misinformation. ;)

I like to shut it off after the fan slows down but they say you can just shut the power switch off and that is OK.

The main thing is not to try to restart the projector until the bulb is cool.

It's better for the bulb to cool down slowly. Infocus says you can just hard power it down with the switch. I let the fan run for about 2 seconds after a soft power down, then flip the switch.

It's important not to leave the fan running 24/7 using the PJ as a room air-cleaner.

-W

I hate to ask the question that's been asked a million times, but it seems every situation/setup is different, and I've read about 15 pages of this thread today and haven't found my answer yet - and my eyes hurt.

I'm trying to decide whether the 4805, 5000, or neither, is right for me. I'm looking at taking advantage of either the 4805 refurb/screen deal or 5000 refurb or new+ rebate deal.

I've never had an HDTV (or projector).

The projector would be in my living room, which is just 12x15'. There are 3 windows on the southern wall, but there are honeycomb blinds. They darken the room a lot, but I also wouldn't be watching it much during the day. Which PJ would be best in an environment where total darkness isn't possible?

In the room, the couch is on the back wall, so putting the PJ behind it isn't a possibility. I would prefer to put it on a small table (which isn't there now) in front of the couch. This would leave the PJ a max of about 9' from the screen though. Is that OK? The prime seating would be a max of about 12' from the screen, which from what I've heard would be fine on a 76" screen?

I watch a lot more TV than movies (though having a PJ may turn me onto movies more)...how would either of these handle SD from a DirecTivo? I've heard the "crap in, crap out" saying time and again - would the SD signal from an HD-DirecTivo (using the best connection possible - isn't it HDMI for that?) be good?

Anything else I should factor into my decision? Thanks a lot for any help.

EDIT: I should have mentioned that I will be keeping my current 32" non-HD TV in the room for daytime viewing and whenever I'm too lazy to get the PJ going. I'm going to be building a new home within a few years, and will have a dedicated HT at that time. I (actually the wife) don't want the PJ permanently mounted to the ceiling for now. But the I think it might also be easier to have the screen go right in front of our current entertainment center, so it'd be sitting lower than a projector screen normally would (I think?).

Would that work OK? I thought I could just coil up the cables when not in use and stick them behind or in the entertainment center?

And would it look OK projecting smaller than a 76" image onto a 76" screen (the free one)? I suppose that would be an option if the PJ was too close?

Thanks again for any advice.

4805 over the 5000, hands down for your needs.
Mount the PJ on the ceiling above the couch, not on the table.
At 9', you won't get 76". You'll need about 11.4 ' and full zoom on.
Everything looks good on the 4805 when it's calibrated well and the room is light controlled. HDTV is phenomenal.

I just posted this elsewhere but this is the official 4805 link...so here goes:

I just watched my first DVD on my new 4805 with a DVD player and component inputs and two thirds of the way through the lamp stopped. I don't mean it burned out but that it started searching for source. I fiddled with it and then it worked for another half hour and then it started searching for source again. Any ideas??

By the way I am very happy with the pic....thanks for everyone's help

I just posted this elsewhere but this is the official 4805 link...so here goes:

I just watched my first DVD on my new 4805 with a DVD player and component inputs and two thirds of the way through the lamp stopped. I don't mean it burned out but that it started searching for source. I fiddled with it and then it worked for another half hour and then it started searching for source again. Any ideas??

By the way I am very happy with the pic....thanks for everyone's help

I've had the same issue before with the projector loosing it's sync to the video signal.

As was suggested to me by another member of this forum - go into the "advanced" section of the menu and change the sync settings. Mine was on "0" and kept loosing the image in bright scenes with flashes. I just changed it to "50" and it seems to be fine now.

Good Luck.

So, I should stick with 720p, even if a game supports true 1080i? I'm basically wondering if the extra detail simply won't be apparent due to the conversion.

I'd rather have a smooth picture than have to worry about scaling and interlacing.

If a source can support both 720p and 1080i, which will look better when scaled on the 4805?


If you are speaking about the Xbox 360 then by all means use 720p to the 4805 ;) .

--------- Jason

HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!

I hate to ask the question that's been asked a million times, but it seems every situation/setup is different, and I've read about 15 pages of this thread today and haven't found my answer yet - and my eyes hurt.


Yes I agree, having all this info in one post makes it hard to find what you want. I wish we could do subdirectories instead.


The projector would be in my living room, which is just 12x15'. There are 3 windows on the southern wall, but there are honeycomb blinds. They darken the room a lot, but I also wouldn't be watching it much during the day. Which PJ would be best in an environment where total darkness isn't possible?


My room is about the same as yours and I have 3 large windows on my east wall. There are pics in my member area. My projector is built into the wall. The 4805 works great even with the windows open, of course it is better in darkness. I had the X1 before this one and there is a world of difference between these 2 models when it comes to room darkness. The X1 really needed a dark room.


I watch a lot more TV than movies (though having a PJ may turn me onto movies more)...how would either of these handle SD from a DirecTivo? I've heard the "crap in, crap out" saying time and again - would the SD signal from an HD-DirecTivo (using the best connection possible - isn't it HDMI for that?) be good?

Anything else I should factor into my decision? Thanks a lot for any help.


We are about the same here as well. We have DTV and a SD Tivo. That is mainly what we watch as well. Yes watching a DVD is very good with the projector but watching TV is also good. You will see big differences in the picture but it is very watchable. It will vary by program/channel. premium channels have a very good pic. We also have 41" rear projection TV in the living room. No one has ever said they would rather watch the Tivo on the TV vs the projector.

I am going to set up my 1st HTPC. I will capture the S Video from the Tivo, scale the output to pixel map direct to the projector using DVI. Right now I have S Video going to the projector. I am told that this will improve the pic quite a bit. I know that some of the programs from DTV will still be just OK because of their compression but it still should help. I am guessing 2 to 4 weeks before I get this set up.

JEFatCLT,

Thank-you. I saw that posting by Ja Phule re: sync although I did not have a flash prior to the occurrence. I will try setting mine at 50 and see whether it works....frustrating when you have others watching with you and you don't know how to fix it! Puts a damper on the evening....

what is the best way to shut this projector down as when i use the remote it takes about 1 min to shut down which i know is normal to cool the lamp down but the thing is the projector fan still run in very very low power is this normal.

is it ok to power it of with the switch at this point ?????

also i read about the 5x colour wheel in the infocus 5700 i demod a 4805 and 5700
the 4805 6col x4 speed
the 5700 6col 5x speed

strange i saw alot more rainbow on the 5700 than the 4805 wounder why that is i thought faster wheels produce less rainbow ???? the only thing i could think of is that the projector was brighter than the 4805 and that the extra brightness casues the rainbow to ?????

if this is the case a 7 colour wheel might work better i dont know i know the 7210 has a 7col 5x wheel but i have not seen one wounder how the rainbow looks on thta on

Or better yet use a larger screen. Rainbows are correlated with brightness. The 5700/72xx series are 50% brighter - which means you can have 50% more area for a screen.

JEFatCLT,

I just looked at the sync and my PJ is set to 50, so I raised it to 75??!!

What do you have your sources set to? Because I'm only using a DVD player, should I set them all to component (I know that doesn't make much sense but when I had the trouble the PJ was "searching for source" and could not find it.) So I changed all to component and then just one source to component and the autosearch couldn't find it either way.

hawaii23,

Also make sure your projector is flashed with the latest firmware. I had some sync problems with mine initially because of this. Looks like 1.2.1 is the latest.

http://www.infocus.com/service/sp4805/software.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&

Dave G.

How much of a difference does using a screen make of projecting the image on a smooth white wall?

My projector hasn't arrived yet, but it is coming with the 76" screen. I have the space in my living room to go quite a bit bigger than that.

dave_f

I suppose it depends on what type and quality of screen you will use. You also want to make sure you have enough seating distance to accomodate a larger screen - typically twice the screen width back.

It also depends on what color your walls are, ambient light, and seating arrangements. So depending on these variables, a screen can add immense gain.

SO, tell us a little more about your setup - wall color, seating distance and viewing angles, light control, and of course, the $$$ you are willing to spend.

Oh, welcome to the forum - you're going to love your PJ.

Ok, I'm making this post just so it'll get me above 5 posts and thus be allowed to add images.

dave_f

I suppose it depends on what type and quality of screen you will use. You also want to make sure you have enough seating distance to accomodate a larger screen - typically twice the screen width back.

It also depends on what color your walls are, ambient light, and seating arrangements. So depending on these variables, a screen can add immense gain.

SO, tell us a little more about your setup - wall color, seating distance and viewing angles, light control, and of course, the $$$ you are willing to spend.

Oh, welcome to the forum - you're going to love your PJ.


Thanks for the reply and welcome.

Here's the setup I have in mind:

http://img355.imageshack.us/img355/5664/pjsetup0ua.jpg

I want to spend as little as possible to get an acceptable picture out of the thing ... I'm not too picky. I've been using a 20" computer monitor for all of my movie watching for several years, so I'm sure just blasting the picture right onto the walls will look amazing compared to that.

If I can get decent results using the wall, I'll probably put the 76" screen up on ebay or craigslist and get some money back out of it.

Here's the setup I have in mindYou're going to have to position your projector a great deal closer; at the distance you suggest, your pix will be between 180" and 218" diagonal!!

Half that distance would be more normal. And your seating distance might reduced as well - remember, optimum viewing distance is about twice the screen width. The SP4805 is spec'd for a max 9' width, using a unity gain screen. That's a 16-19' throw.

Use the Infocus Screen Calculator (http://www.infocus.com/service/software/projcalc.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&) to calculate your screen size versus distance.

I just wanted to say hello and say thanks for all the information.

I finally made my Home Theater purchase and I already see the upgrades coming in the future.

The Infocus 4800 is awesome. - I considered a 720P PJ, but since I watch 95% DVD and allow some PS2 gaming I knew that anything over 480P would be a waste (for now... 2 years down the line I'll be ready to upgrade and HDTV should be much more prevailent.

I know the 4805 is showing it's age but it still looks awesome and I was able to pick it up new at BestBuy for $999. Of note BB has changed/revised thier policy for bulb replacement for LCD and DLP TV/PJs. Previously they were not covered by the BB extended warrentee's. If you buy a PJ from the "Computer section they are still NOT covered. However, the 4805 is sold in the TV section and is sold as an EDTV projector just like the rear projection sets. They specificaly have wriiten in the warrentee that they will replace the bulbs for the LCD and DLP components. I decided to go with the warrentee specifically for that reason alone as it will cover any number of bulbs for 4 years. BTW I did make sure to check with both customer service and the Tech repair guys before I bought it.

It may sound like a too good to be true story but I intend to validate it as soon as I burn through my bulb.

Anyway, once again Thank you all for your valuable info. Keep it comin!

What are some of your guys' settings on the 4805. I know every persons eyes are differance so one persons settings may not work for th enext, but I can not seem to get my picture to look right. It just seems like the colors aren't as vibrant as my TV, and to top it off the signal for the projector is HD, the TV I am comparing it to is SDTV.

I will admit I am shooting on a wall, so I am sure that is causing part of it, but it seems like it is a lot worse then just what the wall is causing. So any help would be great, thanks

What are some of your guys' settings on the 4805. I know every persons eyes are differance so one persons settings may not work for th enext, but I can not seem to get my picture to look right. It just seems like the colors aren't as vibrant as my TV, and to top it off the signal for the projector is HD, the TV I am comparing it to is SDTV.

I will admit I am shooting on a wall, so I am sure that is causing part of it, but it seems like it is a lot worse then just what the wall is causing. So any help would be great, thanks

You need to get a copy of DVE or Avia. They both come with a blue filter and color/tint test patterns to set them correctly (as well as test patterns for contrast, brightness, and sharpness).

Also, make sure all the RGB gains and offsets are set to 50 and that color temp is set to 6500K. Do NOT use PC gamma.

I know every persons eyes are differance so one persons settings may not work for the nextThis is not true. Professional standards exist to ensure that the signal path from source to display are accurate. Calibration standards exist to enable the user (or his service provider) to adjust the display to the industry standards and bring a given display as accurate as possible, within the limitation of the display itself.

A multitude of people can look at a sunset or listen to a symphony and they are all exposed to exactly the same source. It's not necessary to adjust the sunset or the symphony to each person's vision or hearing. Individuals may, in fact see, hear or perceive differently, but they all start with the same source.

This is not to say that individual viewers or listeners don't have "personal taste" or preferences, but that, again, has nothing to do with delivering a standard image or sound.

And, as a separate issue, some manufacturers will use smoke, mirrors, psycho-visual and psycho-acoustic "tricks" to fool an end-user into believing they are getting more than they really are.

To the point: television displays in retail environments are a great example of "tricks" to make a potential customer believe that one or another unit is superior by comparison to make a sale. Unfortunately, these tricks (such as oversaturated colours, clipped white levels, extreme contrast, enhanced sharpness, etc.) do not wear well on the consumer once they are home. Do you ever wonder why most retail AV displays show Nemo or other animation?? It's because they can exagerate almost all elements of the image and no-one realizes it because they have no comparison in reality.

The true home theatre experience is an attempt to reproduce a "Hollywood" standard, actually the Society of Motion Picture and Television Engineers ("SMPTE") standards, combined with television broadcast and digital standards (NAB, NTSC, ATSC, MPEG, Dolby, AC-3, etc.) Standard SMPTE theatre image brightness standards dictate that the brightness level be calibrated to 16fL (foot-Lamberts). The proportion of blacker than black to whiter than white, gray scale tracking, gamma correction, etc., are all known and predetermined.

Relative to the SP4805, the contrast, brightness, RGB Gains, RGB Offsets, White Peaking, etc. are not random selections. They can all be set with repeatable precision to produce the same accurate, repeatable image in your living room or mine.

Now my ambient lighting may be different than yours. You may have a bigger or smaller screen than me. But ultimately, the settings for your equipment and for mine will be exactly the same to generate a standard image. The same digital value from your DVD disk will produce the same result as mine, within the limitations of the hardware itself.

Some projector produce more accurate colours. The SP4805 has truer reds than the Optoma H31. But the H31 has truer greens than the SP4805. A DLP unit may have RBE but an LCD unit could exhibit VB. Etc.

But this is a very long-winded way of saying that even if "every persons eyes are differance [sic]" the correct calibrated settings don't change.

Now, if we ignore the concept of "standards", every viewer probably has different personal "expectations". It sounds to me like you are trying to reproduce the excessively bright, over-saturated colours produced by a direct view TV. You are also probably comparing the perceived sharper resolution of a small TV screen compared to a large projected image.

If you are trying to compare these two devices, the proper way to do it is to calibrate them both using the DVE or Avia tools available, and setup the screens so that formats are the same (ie 4:3 or 16:9) and both the projected image and the direct TV are the same size from the viewer's position. This might require moving your projector to 5-feet from the screen to create a 32" image (or whatever). When and if you go through that exercise, however you do it, you will find the images remarkably similar.

So, in answer to your question: there are only one set of correct settings and those are determined by standard calibration DVDs hooked up to your gear. Set it correctly and live with the results till you become sensitive to the benefits of proper calibration. It's worth the effort!

But if you prefer extreme contrast, over-saturated colours, extreme white peaks, etc., don't ask anyone else for their opinion. Just set yours till you like it. And don't waste your time or money on calibration - it will be meaningless to you.

Answer fueled by a half bottle of champagne ;)

What are some of your guys' settings on the 4805.After calibration, factory default values for everything except for the DVI input only the RGB Gains are set to 58 and the RGB Offsets are set to 28.5; these last settings are irrelevant for anything but a DVI source with 'studio standard' digital levels.

I am ready to join the club and get my 4805 and i only have the last item to sort which is I am going to connect it via component to my receiver but I would like to know what are the best possible cables that I should use possibly the brands and which types. (Belden excluded).

I am planning close to 25 foot runs per cable x 3.

Appreciate your replies with thanks.

hi all back again ,lol i have just placed a nd2 filter on the lens a hoya nd2 filter it looks great but i do think it dims the picture abit is there any way of putting more punch into the picture i am projecting on a 5 ft screen.

my settings are
brightnes 52
contrast 75
col 50
gama pc setting 1

also when is it best to remove the fillter, what hours on the bulb so it looks the same all the way till the bulbs life ??????????

Hello !

I have a little problem with my 4805, when i turn on the unit after the initial green light the led turns red and blink 3 times, i have to turn off and on again and everything is ok, the bulb works find..... Is anyboby heard about some problem like that ?

tanks !

I decided to go with the warrentee specifically for that reason alone as it will cover any number of bulbs for 4 years. BTW I did make sure to check with both customer service and the Tech repair guys before I bought it.

It may sound like a too good to be true story but I intend to validate it as soon as I burn through my bulb.


Get someone (preferably a manager) to write specificaly that it covers bulb replacement on your PSP form. BB is known for saying one thing and doing another, check out www.bestbuysux.org and see what I am talking about.

Pixel mapping question:

So I was looking at some movies the other day and started wondering about the pixel mapping thing. When you pixel map the whole screen (including black borders) is 480 lines tall... but a DVD video only contains information in the area that has an actual picture (black borders are not part of the video).

So since DVDs come in many formats of varying height how does pixel mapping work out?

It would seem to me a 16:9 DVD would really pixel map each pixel on the DVD to each pixel on screen if it was 480 lines. However a 2.35 DVD uses only about half the lines of resolution, so is the picture on a 2.35 dvd actually only half as many lines of resollution or is it still the full 480 lines? Because if it's still 480 lines and being shown using only 240 lines on the pj then it's not really pixel mapped anymore is it?

Similar for the 1.85 or whatever it is format....

Question regarding the 16:9 display with laptop.

For time being i connected the laptop to the 4805 to watch some divx and dvd's.The connection is with the infocus provided vga m1 connector since the laptop only has the
nvidia Geforce fx go 5200 card.The movies look good with 4805 computer settings but 4805 sets the image to 640x480.When watching dvd i cannot get the true 16:9 (it is streached).
The software player used are dell media exp,core media.I havent tried Theatertek.

So can i assume that with vga m1 and with the current graphics card i cannot get true 16:9 picture.

By the way there is no prob in getting 16:9 with a dvd player.It is awesome.

Thanks in advance.

Maybe you can try to setup a second screen with widescreen resolution on your vga port instead of just outputting the 640x480 form your lappy?

Maybe you can try to setup a second screen with widescreen resolution on your vga port instead of just outputting the 640x480 form your lappy?

Right now i just play the dvd in laptop and when the movie starts i just hit F8 to output it t0
4805 which sizes it ti 640x480.

How do i setup with widescreen resolution.Thanks.

Still trying to decide between the 4805 and 5000, leaning towards the 4805 based on price and rec's from you folks...I'm curious about the lamp life. So the 'average' for the 4805 is 3000 hrs, 5000 is 2000 hrs.? And on average, will the lamp in the 4805 last 50% longer than that in the 5000? How long has YOURS lasted?

Using it 3 hrs a day/night (which would probably be more than I'd actually use it, I think) would be around 1000 hrs a year. Does this seem realistic, and would it realistically last 3 years?

What factors will determine lamp life?

Thanks again for any advice.

I don't think many people have had a real opportunity to put 2000 hours on a 5000 yet....

Right now i just play the dvd in laptop and when the movie starts i just hit F8 to output it t0
4805 which sizes it ti 640x480.

How do i setup with widescreen resolution.Thanks.

Try under display properties to see if somewhere it will let you setup a second screen. If not you may be out of luck on that...

You can try setting your laptop screen res to something widescree (480x848 or so) but that would result in no picture on your laptop screen.

I don't think many people have had a real opportunity to put 2000 hours on a 5000 yet....
Oops, didn't realize they were that new :o.

Try under display properties to see if somewhere it will let you setup a second screen. If not you may be out of luck on that...

You can try setting your laptop screen res to something widescree (480x848 or so) but that would result in no picture on your laptop screen.


Thank you.will try that.I have the option of setting multiple monitors and the monitor setting that goes to 4805 is set at 640x480.I will try to change that ..Thx

You need to get a copy of DVE or Avia. They both come with a blue filter and color/tint test patterns to set them correctly (as well as test patterns for contrast, brightness, and sharpness).

Also, make sure all the RGB gains and offsets are set to 50 and that color temp is set to 6500K. Do NOT use PC gamma.


Doh and I thought PC gamma looked the best. I am using a PC connected via the DVI input. I also have an xbox connected using component cables. What gamma should I use?


Also what cavu makes sense now that i think about it, with me trying to compare the image with my CRT TV. Its just with the way the projector looked compared to the TV, I might as well just use the TV since it looked better, albeit smaller. But I bought the projector for that big screen feel. I would just prefer it looked as good as my TV if not better since it was showing HDTV as opposed to SDTV on the TV. I know the SP4805 isn't true HDTV, but its still better then my SDTV.

After calibration, factory default values for everything except for the DVI input only the RGB Gains are set to 58 and the RGB Offsets are set to 28.5; these last settings are irrelevant for anything but a DVI source with 'studio standard' digital levels.


So those are the settings for everything except the DVI input? I am using the DVI for my PC, which is where the TV signal is coming from. I also have my xbox hooke dup using components. Nevermind, i reread your post, so factory defaults for everything except the DVI source, for that use the numbers you listed.

I set it to those(well 28 for the offsets since I didn't see a 28.5 option. That does seem a lot better. And actually after seeing it like that, I am starting to think my TV may not be that well calibrated.

Ok, I finally got around to hooking up my laptop to my 4805 with DVI at 848x480 pixel mapped. I tried some DVD's with TheaterTek and some WMV-HD clips. My impression is as follows using the different sources (Setup: all calibrated with DVE, ND2 filter, 92" Dalite 1.1 grey):

- 480i DVD player through component with the 4805 doing the deinterlacing: picture is pretty soft, but very smooth and definately lacks high frequency detail as shown in DVE. Color seems to be somewhat muted as well.

- 480p over DVI from Denon 1910 (my current setup) - Slightly sharper picture, color definately stronger, but not over saturated. DVE B/W and color frequency test pattern is much improved. Deinterlacing not quite as smooth.

- Laptop Pixel Mapped DVD w/TheaterTek - Color almost identical to Denon, however slight improvement in sharpness with no ringing or other artifacts. The best DVD picture I've ever seen. Title text is razor sharp. Slight increase in noticing SDE.

- Laptop Pixel Mapped WMV-HD - Eye poping. Color was bright and natural with fantastic detail. Some scenes on the IMAX clips felt like you could fall into the screen. Just a tiny bit of color banding in some scenes.

Overall I would say going from 480i component to 480p DVI was an increase from a 6 to 8 on a 1-10 image quality scale, and pixel mapped DVD HTPC is a 8 to a 9 and WMV-HD was a 10. I think this bodes well for BluRay/HD-DVD use on our "low res" 4805's when and if it comes out.

I set it to those(well 28 for the offsets since I didn't see a 28.5 option. That does seem a lot better. And actually after seeing it like that, I am starting to think my TV may not be that well calibrated.

Go to 28, and then press once more to increase, there are 2 steps in between each number.

If you haven't calibrated your tv at all, it's probably pretty nasty compared to the 4805 right out of the box. Once you see a properly calibrated image, it will take a little bit to appreciate it. Once you're used to a properly image, everything else will look horrible.

It's a little like having a good bottle of wine- there's a little bit of a learning curve, but once you're enjoying how good it is, you're ruined for the future- you know what a good bottle of wine tastes like. . .

Wes

If I turn up the Brightness to more than 90, does this hurt to the lamp or shorter the life of the lamp?
Thanks

If I turn up the Brightness to more than 90, does this hurt to the lamp or shorter the life of the lamp?
Thanks

Holy Brightness, Batman!!! At that setting, I'm surprized you haven't scorched the screen. Are you using the PJ to heat your house or as a lighthouse lamp for lost ships? :eek:

Ok, I finally got around to hooking up my laptop to my 4805 with DVI at 848x480 pixel mapped. I tried some DVD's with TheaterTek and some WMV-HD clips. My impression is as follows using the different sources (Setup: all calibrated with DVE, ND2 filter, 92" Dalite 1.1 grey):

- 480i DVD player through component with the 4805 doing the deinterlacing: picture is pretty soft, but very smooth and definately lacks high frequency detail as shown in DVE. Color seems to be somewhat muted as well.

- 480p over DVI from Denon 1910 (my current setup) - Slightly sharper picture, color definately stronger, but not over saturated. DVE B/W and color frequency test pattern is much improved. Deinterlacing not quite as smooth.

- Laptop Pixel Mapped DVD w/TheaterTek - Color almost identical to Denon, however slight improvement in sharpness with no ringing or other artifacts. The best DVD picture I've ever seen. Title text is razor sharp. Slight increase in noticing SDE.

- Laptop Pixel Mapped WMV-HD - Eye poping. Color was bright and natural with fantastic detail. Some scenes on the IMAX clips felt like you could fall into the screen. Just a tiny bit of color banding in some scenes.

Overall I would say going from 480i component to 480p DVI was an increase from a 6 to 8 on a 1-10 image quality scale, and pixel mapped DVD HTPC is a 8 to a 9 and WMV-HD was a 10. I think this bodes well for BluRay/HD-DVD use on our "low res" 4805's when and if it comes out.


Your Lappy has DVI out?

Holy Brightness, Batman!!! At that setting, I'm surprized you haven't scorched the screen. Are you using the PJ to heat your house or as a lighthouse lamp for lost ships? :eek:

I def had to trun my brighness up that high (using a 92" Dalite Video Spectra screen right now) in order to watch CSI hi-def via component outs on my Sa8300 HD pvr.

Funny, watching CSI DVD season 4 yesretrday in widescreen using my components from a Sony NS775 DVD player, 48-50 brightness was just fine.

Have not calibrated with Avia yet as my mounting (and screen choice) is not pem yet.

Sa8300 @ 1080i is MUCH darker then my DVD player.

Anyone else notice this?

I def had to trun my brighness up that high (using a 92" Dalite Video Spectra screen right now) in order to watch CSI hi-def via component outs on my Sa8300 HD pvr.

Funny, watching CSI DVD season 4 yesretrday in widescreen using my components from a Sony NS775 DVD player, 48-50 brightness was just fine.

Have not calibrated with Avia yet as my mounting (and screen choice) is not pem yet.

Sa8300 @ 1080i is MUCH darker then my DVD player.

Anyone else notice this?

You probably need to hit the "auto image" button. I remember this happening on my Zenith 318 dvd player over component sometimes- I would get a picture, but it was really dim, if I pegged the brightness it looked close to normal. Needed to hit the auto image button for some reason.

Depending on your firmware, the 4805 will lose sync over component when switching between a 480i and a progressive (especially 1080i) signal, and you need to use the auto image button.

Try that and see if you can put your brightness back to normal.

Wes

If I turn up the Brightness to more than 90, does this hurt to the lamp or shorter the life of the lamp?
Thanks

wow thats way to high i have mine at 50 b and 59 c and thats plenty bright even with some ambient light in the room..... :)

wow thats way to high i have mine at 50 b and 59 c and thats plenty bright even with some ambient light in the room..... :)


somehow I paint my screen with too much grey, I have to repaint it again. does the Brightness have something to do with the lamp light output or its just use the software to adj the Brightness?

Your Lappy has DVI out?

On the docking station, yes. Dell Inspiron 8500 w/heat sink mod ATI 9600 Pro Turbo.

Thanks Wes. Will give it a shot.

talon95,

I fixed the problem...one of my cables into the DVD was not pushed in all the way (they go in very hard). I guess it wasn't pushed in all the way and worked itself out while watching the movie...at least I hope that was the only problem...

Now as far as firmware is concerned, I just saw I have 1.13. At this time I won't update unless I have an additional problem that it would solve. Thanks to your IF link, it looks like it doesn't provide much benefit anyways.

hi all back again ,lol i have just placed a nd2 filter on the lens a hoya nd2 filter it looks great but i do think it dims the picture abit is there any way of putting more punch into the picture i am projecting on a 5 ft screen.

my settings are
brightnes 52
contrast 75
col 50
gama pc setting 1

also when is it best to remove the fillter, what hours on the bulb so it looks the same all the way till the bulbs life ??????????

Give the filter some time to get used to. PC gamma gives a brighter look, but most people here use film, CRT, or video gamma. Don't go after the bright TV image that you may be used to with FP. You should use AVIA or DVE to properly set up.

Ok, I finally got around to hooking up my laptop to my 4805 with DVI at 848x480 pixel mapped. I tried some DVD's with TheaterTek and some WMV-HD clips. My impression is as follows using the different sources (Setup: all calibrated with DVE, ND2 filter, 92" Dalite 1.1 grey):

- 480i DVD player through component with the 4805 doing the deinterlacing: picture is pretty soft, but very smooth and definately lacks high frequency detail as shown in DVE. Color seems to be somewhat muted as well.

- 480p over DVI from Denon 1910 (my current setup) - Slightly sharper picture, color definately stronger, but not over saturated. DVE B/W and color frequency test pattern is much improved. Deinterlacing not quite as smooth.

- Laptop Pixel Mapped DVD w/TheaterTek - Color almost identical to Denon, however slight improvement in sharpness with no ringing or other artifacts. The best DVD picture I've ever seen. Title text is razor sharp. Slight increase in noticing SDE.

- Laptop Pixel Mapped WMV-HD - Eye poping. Color was bright and natural with fantastic detail. Some scenes on the IMAX clips felt like you could fall into the screen. Just a tiny bit of color banding in some scenes.

Overall I would say going from 480i component to 480p DVI was an increase from a 6 to 8 on a 1-10 image quality scale, and pixel mapped DVD HTPC is a 8 to a 9 and WMV-HD was a 10. I think this bodes well for BluRay/HD-DVD use on our "low res" 4805's when and if it comes out.

Nice review, looking at making my first HTPC. Can't wait to get it going. Lots to learn though. :cool:

I def had to trun my brighness up that high (using a 92" Dalite Video Spectra screen right now) in order to watch CSI hi-def via component outs on my SA8300 HD pvr.

Funny, watching CSI DVD season 4 yesretrday in widescreen using my components from a Sony NS775 DVD player, 48-50 brightness was just fine.

Have not calibrated with Avia yet as my mounting (and screen choice) is not pem yet.

Sa8300 @ 1080i is MUCH darker then my DVD player.

Anyone else notice this?

I use a DVE calibrated setting of 50 for both contrast and brightness on the 4805 for my Toshiba 3960 dvd player outputting 480i and have the 4805 set at 40 for both contrast and brightness for a 720P/1080i HD signal coming from my SA 8300HD DVR.

You really cannot easily calibrate the signal coming from 8300. You can record some test patterns from HD Net but they are somewhat limited, so what I did was record a movie (The Professional) that was showing a while back onto the 8300's DVR. It's a movie that I also own on DVD.

I got the 8300 and the dvd player both running simultaneously and was able to switch between the two signals using my receiver. This allowed me to calibrate the 4805 to the 8300 by doing A/B comparisons from quite a few different scenes and adjusting the 4805 until the 8300's 1080i version matched up with the dvd players 480i contrast and brightness levels as best I could.

I'm using the 4805's original firmware version of 1.02 and it was very time consuming and a bit of a pain but the picture looks outstanding and I'm quite happy with the results.

Nice review, looking at making my first HTPC. Can't wait to get it going. Lots to learn though. :cool:

Thanks, I wanted to give it a try with the laptop before making the plunge to see if it was worth the $$. I would say once you add in the DVD and music hard drive storage and gaming potential to the improved picture quality it's probably worth it over a DVI DVD player. Just for better DVD picture quality ... maybe not. I have to say though a 1280x720 projector would be a big improvement for PC gaming and web browsing, which was pretty lacking at 848x480.

OK, I've decided on the 4805, I'll order tomorrow or sometime this week, but have a few more questions :o.

It's not going in a dedicated HT...there is a 32" non-HDTV w/entertainment center (comes out ~2' from the front wall), then 10' from that is the couch which is on the back wall. Since it's not a dedicated room, but I will be having a dedicated room within a couple years, I originally planned on putting the PJ on a table in front of the couch and putting the screen (plan on using the 76" Infocus screen at first - though I'm not sure how it'll work w/o being hung from the wall/ceiling - then maybe making my own. It won't be permanent, I will store it elsewhere when not in use) in front or on top of the TV, but that would put the PJ a max of 9' from the screen.

So doing some measuring today, if I could put it on the back wall, it would be about 11.5' from the screen, which with a 76" screen seems to be just right according to various calcs?

So my questions...would putting it on a table, only a couple ft. off the floor, 9' from the screen, work? Or would it be a lot better higher up (back wall) and further from the screen?

If I need to put it on the back wall, is there a mount or stand I could make or buy that would also be removable when not in use? The wife might not like the looks of it sitting back there. There is a picture on the back wall which is 17" from the ceiling - is this 17" enough space from the ceiling to put it?

Mounting it on the ceiling isn't really an option, since I'll probably be taking the cables down when it's not in use (if not the entire PJ). And I live in an older farmhouse, so running things in the ceiling or through walls isn't an option.

So where would you recommend I put it, and if it should be mounted, how?

As far as a screen goes, I'll venture over to that forum and ask, but I thought I'd ask here too. The room can be made pitch black at night, and I don't plan on using it during the day or in the summer much at all. What would you recommend? Would the 76" Infocus screen (which comes free with the PJ) suffice for now? I don't want to spend much, so I'd do a DIY screen if I was advised to use something other than the Infocus. What would you recommend for a DIY?

Thanks a lot for any help.

aktick,
Get that PJ put wherever you want and when it's calibrated properly, your wife will love it.
If not, convince her that marriage is all about compromises...she puts up with the PJ, and you put up with the little ducks/cows/swans/figurines/whatever. ;)
Who says that women are the only ones that get a say in what goes where in the house?
Sorry, but I'll never understand that thinking...and neither does my gf.

Give the filter some time to get used to. PC gamma gives a brighter look, but most people here use film, CRT, or video gamma. Don't go after the bright TV image that you may be used to with FP. You should use AVIA or DVE to properly set up.

PC Gamma destroys your greyscale.

So my questions...would putting it on a table, only a couple ft. off the floor, 9' from the screen, work?
This is probably where you'll need it. The PJ has a fixed offset. This means the lowest part of the projected image is above the center of the lens. The exact amount can be calculated from the info on the InFocus website.

What would you recommend for a DIY?

Most people recommend using what you've got before spending any money. You'll have a better idea of your needs and desires after you've had time to play with your new toy and see what works and what doesn't. I tested an X2 with a sheet, started with blackout cloth on my SP4805, and went with a painted wall after a couple of weeks. My seating is so far back from the wall that any irregularities became invisible. With closer viewing distances you will have to be more critical of the screen than I need to be.

the PJ a max of 9' from the screen.You won't be able to throw a 76" image from 9'. It requires a minimum of 10' and optimally 11'.

Sorry, but I'll never understand that thinking...and neither does my gf.

Can I have your gf?

Maybe we could work out a trade? I have one, slightly used, good condition. Would pay ground shipping and maybe throw in a nice Harmony remote control to sweeten the deal?

This is probably where you'll need it. The PJ has a fixed offset. This means the lowest part of the projected image is above the center of the lens. The exact amount can be calculated from the info on the InFocus website.
Thanks...I read up on the fixed offset thing, and think I kind of understand it. So when they are ceiling/back wall mounted, they need to be aimed down some?

You won't be able to throw a 76" image from 9'. It requires a minimum of 10' and optimally 11'.
Thanks, I saw that on the InFocus calculator (and actually figured how to calculate it on my own with the throw ratios, which is nothing short of amazing! :p).

So what would my options be? Can you project a smaller image? From 9' it says 58-70".

Or should I make all efforts possible to get it on that rear wall to make it at least 11' from the screen?

I thought I was completely sold on the 4805, but I read that the 5000 is better in rooms with more ambient light and also can project a larger image from closer to the screen? The lamp life is actually what has me most scared away from it.

Damn options...why can't everything just be black and white, yes or no? :( ;)

I thought I was completely sold on the 4805, but I read that the 5000 is better in rooms with more ambient light and also can project a larger image from closer to the screen? The lamp life is actually what has me most scared away from it.

Damn options...why can't everything just be black and white, yes or no? :( ;)

Where did you read that the 5000 is better in a room with more ambient light? The 4805 is brighter and has better contrast than the 5000, so I think that recommendation is backwards.

5000 is a higher res pj, so that is why you can get away with being closer to the screen.

By most accounts that I've read (from people who's opinions I trust) the 4805 throws a superior dvd image for less money. For HD the extra resolution might be important to you, but you trade off in brightness/contrast.

Wes

Thanks...I read up on the fixed offset thing, and think I kind of understand it. So when they are ceiling/back wall mounted, they need to be aimed down some?
No need to aim it down. You can just flip the projector over and set it to Ceiling mode.

I thought I was completely sold on the 4805, but I read that the 5000 is better in rooms with more ambient light and also can project a larger image from closer to the screen? The lamp life is actually what has me most scared away from it.

The 5000 is also bright and it is also an LCD with lower contrast ratio.

How good is the thermal protection on these guys? Has anyone turned off their pj and then right back on again? I am still fighting the UPS/Isolator/Power strip issue and trying to figure out how much I risk going to an isolator over a UPS. I got a new IS500HG and it seems like a pretty heave duty deal but it has no battery abiltliy.

The 4805 should not start up if the lamp is still hot. I asked infocus a similar question and got this reply:

"If the lamp is restarted while it is still hot it should be prevented from restarting by the controller board on the projector. The error pattern for restarting the projector while hot will present itself as a the red led on the projector blinking 3 times and then pausing."

So when they are ceiling/back wall mounted, they need to be aimed down some?As others have said, no! But to make the point: the projector should be at a precise right angle to the screen; otherwise the image will not be square.

My PJ is not able to maintain a picture with the 4805 connect to Motorala DCT-6208 HD Cablebox. The pictures stays on for 2 minutes and then black out. I still hear sound but no pic. Any suggestion?

As others have said, no! But to make the point: the projector should be at a precise right angle to the screen; otherwise the image will not be square.
:) Thanks...that's what common sense told me, then I started thinking too much...

My PJ is not able to maintain a picture with the 4805 connect to Motorala DCT-6208 HD Cablebox. The pictures stays on for 2 minutes and then black out. I still hear sound but no pic. Any suggestion?

Try it with other sources and with other inputs to try and rule out where the issue is comming from.

:) Thanks...that's what common sense told me, then I started thinking too much...

Well, If you use a home made screen you can tilt the top out 1-2 inches from the wall to allow a slight upwardward tilt from a ceiling mount type mount.

Kind of a manual keystone correction.

-W

Can I have your gf?

Maybe we could work out a trade? I have one, slightly used, good condition. Would pay ground shipping and maybe throw in a nice Harmony remote control to sweeten the deal?

NEVER!!! Mine's got too low of mileage and great headlights. ;)

Seriously, SHE'S the one that set up the PJ, did the calibration, ran all the cables, and even did 60% of building the screen and installation of the mount. :D

Most of all, there were no ducks/stuffed animals/figurines/cows/florals or any other "cutesy" things that came in the package when I got her. :cool:

NEVER!!! Mine's got too low of mileage and great headlights. ;)

Seriously, SHE'S the one that set up the PJ, did the calibration, ran all the cables, and even did 60% of building the screen and installation of the mount. :D

Most of all, there were no ducks/stuffed animals/figurines/cows/florals or any other "cutesy" things that came in the package when I got her. :cool:

Harmony remote and replacement bulb.... come on... work with me here.... :o

Rolling bars... oh man...

So I noticed the horizontal rolling bars (horizontal bars of brightness I guess? that look like theya re rolling up the screen) a while back and kind of put it out of my mind. So I reorganized all my stuff recently and put the projector, my xbox, ps2 and cable box all on a hospital grade isolation transformer.

Tonight I loaded up my PS2 for the first time in quite a while and got... massive rolling bars.

Now this is on a grey screen (ps2 exploit loader screen to be precise) which is pretty much a solid grey so it stands out a lot.

That of course got me to looking for it in other sources, and yes in every source I get rolling bars, though in most sources it's hard to detect during normal picture. But when there is a large even colored area I can see it (mainly because I know to look for it, but still it IS there).

I recall many solutions such as cutting out the ground on the pj etc but I would think an ioslation transformer would do the trick for sure wouldn't it?

During a blank screen there is no rolling bars and they don't seem to roll over the menus (though that's hard to call).

Is this a common issue or something? I thought I had it licked with the isolation transformer and all lined up but it still plagues me! Bearing in mind it's a royal pain to get in behind my stuff (tight spaces mean I had to really pack it in) any advice?

Thanks!

Quick question from a projector noob. I plan on using the projector for the rose bowl. Will the projector stay on for 4-5 hours of game without a problem or should I expect it to shut off at some point due to overheating?

Thanks in advance.

Will the projector stay on for 4-5 hours of game without a problemYou can leave the projector on 24hrs a day if you wish.

It shouldnt overheat unless you are blocking the intake or exhaust. I have seen 3 movies in a row without turning it off and it was perfect.

Hey Luis, which version of ffdshow are you using?

Version Aug 2 2004....thats what is says in the about tab.
Sorry for the delay Ive been quite busy moving from Texas to Utah and trying to get my internet back not to mention studying Python programming and getting ready for my A+ test and repairing computers to earn extra cash. My spare time is for movies :-)

Just wondering if there are any nice hush box designs out there for the 4805, I thought it would be a common thing being that the 4805 is kind of noisy but I'm having a hard time finding anything.

Version Aug 2 2004....thats what is says in the about tab.
Sorry for the delay Ive been quite busy moving from Texas to Utah and trying to get my internet back not to mention studying Python programming and getting ready for my A+ test and repairing computers to earn extra cash. My spare time is for movies :-)



Welcome to Utah!!!

Thanks, its a really nice place and my overclock improved a lot :-)
Anyone knows of a decent and CHEAP 100ft dvi cable?

I was just wondering for those with Constnat Height setups, what options do you have set in your projector? also what lenses are you using with your PJ, and screen size?

Or is anyone else doing constant height, other than the one or two that have posted in the CH thread?

Here's a question:
How many of you would trade your 4805 for a plama or LCD TV?
If so, what size would it have to be to satisfy you?
I have absolutely no intention of doing this myself, just curious.

848x480 HTPC mapped via DVI, native mode.

I'm getting a strange verticle row of pixels about 3 rows in from the right, sometimes a little lighter or darker than rest of the frame. Almost imperceptable unless you look for it in most cases. Only present during DVD playback, not desktop.

-W

Here's a question:
How many of you would trade your 4805 for a plama or LCD TV?
If so, what size would it have to be to satisfy you?
I have absolutely no intention of doing this myself, just curious.

Intending on getting a 42" plasma to replace a five year old 36" TV. It is only to save space. I'm not sure why anyone would want to trade the 4805 for a plasma or LCD unless they have light control issues.

I'm not sure why anyone would want to trade the 4805 for a plasma or LCD unless they have light control issues.Even if they had "light control issues", they should try setting the SP4805 about 5ft from a white wall and set a 42" image. It beats any 42" plasma that I have ever seen!!

I did just that and mounted my second SP4805 into the kitchen ceiling; it throws an extremely bright (115fL) 37" image. Waaaayyyy better than a plasma for $500 (BF)!!

Even if they had "light control issues", they should try setting the SP4805 about 5ft from a white wall and set a 42" image. It beats any 42" plasma that I have ever seen!!

I did just that and mounted my second SP4805 into the kitchen ceiling; it throws an extremely bright (115fL) 37" image. Waaaayyyy better than a plasma for $500 (BF)!!

I'd like to see a pic of that. :)

Just wanted to add my thumbs up to using HTPC and pixel map!! After some work and guidance from TheRealGeno (many thanks) I am now a member of the HTPC family. For me the biggest appreciation was the picture did not only look amazingly sharp but the color reproduction / brightness / contrast were a lot more accurate then my Sony DVD player.

Of course a HTPC cost a lot more then a DVD player so one will have to weigh the cost. But seeing I am a huge gamer I saw fit to build another PC.


My 2 cents…

Cheers!


GO Sens

After a few days with the 4805 (My first PJ ever) I am still blown away by the quality of the image.

I was originally shooting the image from an end table 20 feet back to a blank front white wall.
The entire room was white, and I have since repainted the room to a flat dark khaki/dark brown combo.
I haven't painted the front wall yet - I will be taping out the screen an using a DIY formula - but the image is still incredible, especially HD.

The image size is 11 feet wide, and the noise has not been a factor at all from the machine.
Also, I still haven't even calibrated the machine yet and play my 57" Hitachi HD side by side, and they are very similar in quality/brightness/contrast.

I figured I'd post this for any noobs who are sitting on the fence, and are unsure about making the jump. I knew ZERO about PJ's 2 weeks ago, and even I was able to make it succesful right out of the box. It is idiot proof. :D

Just wanted to add my thumbs up to using HTPC and pixel map!! After some work and guidance from TheRealGeno (many thanks) I am now a member of the HTPC family. For me the biggest appreciation was the picture did not only look amazingly sharp but the color reproduction / brightness / contrast were a lot more accurate then my Sony DVD player.

Of course a HTPC cost a lot more then a DVD player so one will have to weigh the cost. But seeing I am a huge gamer I saw fit to build another PC.


My 2 cents…

Cheers!


GO Sens

Congrats! What was your total build cost? I'm still on the fence about building one, and/or waiting to see what happens with HD-DVD/BluRay.

Just wanted to add my thumbs up to using HTPC and pixel map!! As an HTPC user for 5 years I was impressed with the projector's image via VGA. But last night I connected them via DVI and pixel-mapped the resolution and was surprised at how good the image really could look.

As I did with VGA, I still see some rainbows when I move my eyes sideways, no matter what refresh rate I use. 48Hz is the worst, I'm not sure whether there's much difference between 60 or 72Hz. I see none when using a standalone DVD player via a component connection.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks to everyone for helping me make my decision. I love my pj but my receiver doesn't have component switching. I am getting tired of switching my component cables from the hdtv sat receiver to my dvd player. Should I buy a component switcher ? I found one at walmart for $40.00 not sure of the quality of it or run a dvi cable from the satalitte box to the pj ( 25 feet ) who would have the best price on the cable and adapter
Thanks Wayne

Thanks to everyone for helping me make my decision. I love my pj but my receiver doesn't have component switching. I am getting tired of switching my component cables from the hdtv sat receiver to my dvd player. Should I buy a component switcher ? I found one at walmart for $40.00 not sure of the quality of it or run a dvi cable from the satalitte box to the pj ( 25 feet ) who would have the best price on the cable and adapter
Thanks Wayne

I think it was EBGames or gamestop that I got mine, it's really a composite/svideo switcher but with plenty of RCA pluges for each device it works fine. $20.

Radio Shack has a really good Component Switcher and it is on sale this week. It allows 4 Componet Inputs, 4 SPDIF inputs and can be operated with a Universal Learning remote.

I'm getting a strange verticle row of pixels about 3 rows in from the right, sometimes a little lighter or darker than rest of the frame. Almost imperceptable unless you look for it in most cases. Only present during DVD playback, not desktop.


I have that issue if I go to 854 x 480, but have never seen it at 848. Did you have a driver change or anything recently?

I love my pj but my receiver doesn't have component switching. I am getting tired of switching my component cables from the hdtv sat receiver to my dvd player.Use the "switcher" builtin to the SP4805. If your sat box has DVI/HDMI, just run a DVI>M1DA cable (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10238&cs_id=1023801&p_id=2502&seq=1&format=2) to the PJ, along with your existing component cables. Or run a second set of component cables from the sat box to an M1DA adapter (http://www.jdmi.net.order-it.net/go.aspx?http://ecom.order-it.net/ssproduct.asp?pf_id=10225718). The digital cable would be the preferred option.

Anyone have any recommendations for a carrying case for the 4805?

Thanks!

Anyone have any recommendations for a carrying case for the 4805?

Thanks!InFocus specifies the CA-BRIEFCASE-02 (http://www.provantage.com/infocus-ca-briefcase-02~7INFB05W.htm) for the SP4805.

Of course a HTPC cost a lot more then a DVD player so one will have to weigh the cost.



Really? Look back for my post on a low-end HTPC. Just grab an old machine and add a card or two.

-W

OK, I'm getting frustrated - actually p*ssed off.

I just finished building a new HTPC and installed a BFG 6600 GT. The good news is that I can get my desktop to 848x480 @ either 48, 60, or 72 Hz. I can even get 854x480 at any of these refresh rates - no problem. It was a little confusing at first, but once I selected "monitor scaling" in the NVidia panel, BOOM, pixel-mapped heaven.

My extremely frustrating problem is that I can ONLY get TT to play in one mode: 848x480-60Hz. If I set the desktop to 854 and/or change refresh rates, then just before the movie starts playing, the 4805 freakin' resyncs to 848x480-60 Hz.

I've searched all over the computer for the stupid little red button that will make everything work perfectly.

I suppose I could go back to powerstrip - it wasn't bad. Well, I'll stand by. Thanks.

Why not make a custom resolution in TT to be whatever you want? Then it will surely be that resolution...

I think on my TT it's called Uber Res... because I liked how it sounde :)

I am not a fan of PowerStrip... don't know why... it just feels wrong...

Why not make a custom resolution in TT to be whatever you want? Then it will surely be that resolution...

I think on my TT it's called Uber Res... because I liked how it sounde :)

I am not a fan of PowerStrip... don't know why... it just feels wrong...

I thought of that. I know the AR.dat file only contains 848x480, and I was thinking of adding 854x480. Only problem is, you have to uncheck "Lock Aspect Ratio," which I believe Kras says mucks up your scanline mapping.

My main concern is getting TT to play in 48Hz or 72Hz using only Nvidia drivers. I had no problem with powerstrip doing this - I can't figure why in hell TT and NVidia cannot mesh with 854 and 72Hz.

Hey, thanks for the reply ;) .

I have that issue if I go to 854 x 480, but have never seen it at 848. Did you have a driver change or anything recently?
Neither have I...it only happend to me once while adding a strange resolution and changing it to 854x480...cant recall which one.
RealGeno what TT are you using? I heard so many horror stories that I never upgraded to the latest.

Curtis,

I looked all over Radio Shack's site and couldn't find a component switcher. Do you have the part #? I may stop there during lunch and see what they have.

Appreciate any help you can throw this way...


Griff

Curtis,

I looked all over Radio Shack's site and couldn't find a component switcher. Do you have the part #? I may stop there during lunch and see what they have.

Appreciate any help you can throw this way...


Griff

Try here:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103918&cp=2032057&f=Taxonomy%2FRSK%2F2032057&categoryId=2032057&kwCatId=2032057&kw=component+switch&parentPage=search

Really? Look back for my post on a low-end HTPC. Just grab an old machine and add a card or two.

-W

The issue I ran into is the fact most plugins are very CPU intensive and my old AMD 1700XP just didn’t cut it. Or course when you start going down the path of upgrading, you need new RAM, MB, CPU…

A half decent DVD player may run you $200…

Did anyone else enjoy the Rose Bowl on their 4805? I know I did. :)

GO LONGHORNS!

Hi all !
Happy new year !

Any news on new firmware ??? Without pulsing issue ? I am kinda tired of 1.0.2

Cheers

The issue I ran into is the fact most plugins are very CPU intensive and my old AMD 1700XP just didn’t cut it. Or course when you start going down the path of upgrading, you need new RAM, MB, CPU…

A half decent DVD player may run you $200…

What plugins are killing a 1700XP? My main computer is only an 1800XP and it blazes through tons of stuff...

My HTPC is an old Athlon 1Ghz or so model with 256 of RAM running XP and it chugs along just fine. All I have on it is TT, AV, FFDShow and a few small applications but it shows no signs of slowing down...

What ffddshow settings are you using? 1GHZ is not enough for most filters unless you are not doing to much resizing.
Regards

Dust blobs like whoa...

So I hit 250 hours and pulled the lamp assembly for cleaning. It was pretty dirty with half the grill completely covered in dust. It was pretty dirty all around in there too and I was suprised I could see the color wheel directly and into the mirror area... it looks like dust should just shoot right in there...

Well after putting it all back together I was watching it power up by looking into the lense (from a very sharp angle) and I noticed while the bulb was very dim still I could see magnified lots of dust particles... I mean it was like looking at a planetarium... this wasn't just on the outside of the lense (which is dusty) because as I shifted my viewing angle the dust dots moved very quickly so were obviously on teh other side of the lense...

I viewed a black screen (ps2 hung up on black screen) and noticed literally dozens of dust blobs... very faint all over including off the sides of the viewing area. When a picture is showing these are pretty much invisible.

I am wondering is this normal? It seems everyone else has no dust blobs at all or a few and they clean them out. I am not ready to void my warranty cleaning it myself but I wonder if this is something worth sending to IF for cleaning. I don't want to clean it if they are just always going to be a little dusty but I don't like the blobs even if I can't really see them during movies and such.

What ffddshow settings are you using? 1GHZ is not enough for most filters unless you are not doing to much resizing.
Regards

I am not filtering much... so maybe that's it... I don't know my exact settings but I am not doing 4x upscaling or anything...

I think it was EBGames or gamestop that I got mine, it's really a composite/svideo switcher but with plenty of RCA pluges for each device it works fine. $20.


So you are using the Red and White plugs that are meant for Audio, but I guess it does not know the difference if you just plug in a video signal and all it does is transfer it?

Is that right? If it is, That is a good trick, In fact I have one lying around that I used for S-video switching, that should come in handy when I have more than 2 components that need component inputs. (current receiver only has 2 component inputs)

What is the best way to calibrate a signal from Dish DVR? I have it connected using S-video to the receiver and then to the PJ.

I have DVE but since there is no way to display the test patterns from the DVR, how does one go about calibrating it?

Currently I have the contrast at 57 and brightness at 52 and it is just okay looking, also the fact that it is S-video and the data is already heavily compressed. Overall, TV watching with my setup is not as much fun, may be I need an HD-DVR.

Dave, I have the EXACT same problem and have been pulling my hair out trying to track down the source. I get the rolling bars on any component video source when in 720P or 1080I (2 HD sat receivers and xbox). Never see it at 480I/P and never see it at any resolution with the DVI connection. I have been able to find several posts from others with the same problem but never a solution beyond blaming a ground loop. I went so far as to disconnect everything except the sat receiver but the bars remained.

All of my video sources share the same ground as the projector, so I thought it might be a ground loop resulting from the incoming coax for the sat being grounded elsewhere. Disconnected the sat and was still getting rolling bars from the xbox at 1080I.

Rolling bars... oh man...

So I noticed the horizontal rolling bars (horizontal bars of brightness I guess? that look like theya re rolling up the screen) a while back and kind of put it out of my mind. So I reorganized all my stuff recently and put the projector, my xbox, ps2 and cable box all on a hospital grade isolation transformer.

Tonight I loaded up my PS2 for the first time in quite a while and got... massive rolling bars.

Now this is on a grey screen (ps2 exploit loader screen to be precise) which is pretty much a solid grey so it stands out a lot.

That of course got me to looking for it in other sources, and yes in every source I get rolling bars, though in most sources it's hard to detect during normal picture. But when there is a large even colored area I can see it (mainly because I know to look for it, but still it IS there).

I recall many solutions such as cutting out the ground on the pj etc but I would think an ioslation transformer would do the trick for sure wouldn't it?

During a blank screen there is no rolling bars and they don't seem to roll over the menus (though that's hard to call).

Is this a common issue or something? I thought I had it licked with the isolation transformer and all lined up but it still plagues me! Bearing in mind it's a royal pain to get in behind my stuff (tight spaces mean I had to really pack it in) any advice?

Thanks!

Dave, I have the EXACT same problem and have been pulling my hair out trying to track down the source. I get the rolling bars on any component video source when in 720P or 1080I (2 HD sat receivers and xbox). Never see it at 480I/P and never see it at any resolution with the DVI connection. I have been able to find several posts from others with the same problem but never a solution beyond blaming a ground loop. I went so far as to disconnect everything except the sat receiver but the bars remained.

All of my video sources share the same ground as the projector, so I thought it might be a ground loop resulting from the incoming coax for the sat being grounded elsewhere. Disconnected the sat and was still getting rolling bars from the xbox at 1080I.

I hadn't thought to check the DVI... would be nice to narrow it down even though I don't want to find out any component input is going to suffer from it.

Maybe it's a defect in a portion of projectors because the first one I had (got exchanged because of horrible dust blobs) I don't recall this on. I only had it for 2 days though...

So you are using the Red and White plugs that are meant for Audio, but I guess it does not know the difference if you just plug in a video signal and all it does is transfer it?

Is that right? If it is, That is a good trick, In fact I have one lying around that I used for S-video switching, that should come in handy when I have more than 2 components that need component inputs. (current receiver only has 2 component inputs)

As long as it's a passive switch (mechanical) it should have no problem, after all it's just big metal switches inside closing different pathways. I just use red green and blue component cables, but plug them into the RWY plugs for composite. Works a charm!

Dave, I have the EXACT same problem and have been pulling my hair out trying to track down the source. I get the rolling bars on any component video source when in 720P or 1080I (2 HD sat receivers and xbox). Never see it at 480I/P and never see it at any resolution with the DVI connection. I have been able to find several posts from others with the same problem but never a solution beyond blaming a ground loop. I went so far as to disconnect everything except the sat receiver but the bars remained.

All of my video sources share the same ground as the projector, so I thought it might be a ground loop resulting from the incoming coax for the sat being grounded elsewhere. Disconnected the sat and was still getting rolling bars from the xbox at 1080I.
Forgive me if this has already been suggested, but it's hard to keep up with all the posts in this thread. The simple way to determine if it's a groud loop or not is to use one of those 3-to-2 prong electrical adapters. If the bars go away, then it is a ground loop. Once you determine that, then you know what to work on.

I had a ground loop problem and have eliminated it, so rest assured that if that's what you have, you *can* fix it.

-Dan

My main concern is getting TT to play in 48Hz or 72Hz using only Nvidia drivers. I had no problem with powerstrip doing this - I can't figure why in hell TT and NVidia cannot mesh with 854 and 72Hz.

Geno, the Nvidia drivers seem to wander aimlessly to and fro from 72hz once you try it. I have to say this, the ONLY thing I see with 72hz is that is messes up my video based stuff...I can see NO improvement of any type over 60hz and believe me I WANTED to and messed with it for ages.

After you get your OCD of 48 and 72hz out of your system, Uninstall then reinstall your Nvidia drivers, set them to to the standard 848x480 at 60 and go back to fiddling with ffdshow....

By the way do you get avisyth to run fine on the new system? I'm afraid to try it again as I never could solve the issue with it messing up TT for me.

I also had the rolling horizontal line problem and solved it by purchasing a Monster power center. Quick, easy and relatively cheap.

What is the best way to calibrate a signal from Dish DVR? I have it connected using S-video to the receiver and then to the PJ.

I have DVE but since there is no way to display the test patterns from the DVR, how does one go about calibrating it?

Currently I have the contrast at 57 and brightness at 52 and it is just okay looking, also the fact that it is S-video and the data is already heavily compressed. Overall, TV watching with my setup is not as much fun, may be I need an HD-DVR.

Go back a couple of pages and read my post on how I calibrated my DVR.

Before you do that though, get rid of that stinking S-video cable and grab some component cables. Otherwise, your just spinning your wheels and getting no closer in your journey to a better picture. You've been hanging around here long enough to know better.

If you DVR doesn't have component output then you need to get a new one that does and it doesn't necessarily have to be an HD DVR, but since that is the way of the future it won't hurt and the HD channels are even better eye candy.

Geno, the Nvidia drivers seem to wander aimlessly to and fro from 72hz once you try it. I have to say this, the ONLY thing I see with 72hz is that is messes up my video based stuff...I can see NO improvement of any type over 60hz and believe me I WANTED to and messed with it for ages.

After you get your OCD of 48 and 72hz out of your system, Uninstall then reinstall your Nvidia drivers, set them to to the standard 848x480 at 60 and go back to fiddling with ffdshow....

By the way do you get avisyth to run fine on the new system? I'm afraid to try it again as I never could solve the issue with it messing up TT for me.

I was hoping you'd chime in. So 60Hz is OK? I was under the impression avoiding 3:2 pulldown was beneficial. I'm contemplating powerstrip again.

I am also thinking of adding a resolution to TT (we can do that, right?) of 854x480 and then adding the same to the NVidia driver and seeing if the two can sync together with that. Could be fun. Could be a mess.

BTW, NVidia gave me a very nice improvement. I had to recalibrate sat/hue in TT (not much from default, but some - can't recall my settings from memory). Only bad thing is that this is making me revisit ffdshow and rehash all my old settings :rolleyes: .

I have not re-installed avisynth on the new machine; however, just before I built this one, I had it running flawlessly. I'm sure you found not only the thread but also the site with all the crap we need. Only thing I did that made it work was switch from the 0709 sse2 version of ffdshow to Andy's preview version 0801 sse2. It gave a slight boost in performance so I could run it without an occasional stutter.

I ran the beta version of avisynth 2.55, the latest versions of limitedsharpen and masktools.

Hey, are you an AMD man?

Dave, I have the EXACT same problem and have been pulling my hair out trying to track down the source. I get the rolling bars on any component video source when in 720P or 1080I (2 HD sat receivers and xbox). Never see it at 480I/P and never see it at any resolution with the DVI connection. I have been able to find several posts from others with the same problem but never a solution beyond blaming a ground loop. I went so far as to disconnect everything except the sat receiver but the bars remained.

All of my video sources share the same ground as the projector, so I thought it might be a ground loop resulting from the incoming coax for the sat being grounded elsewhere. Disconnected the sat and was still getting rolling bars from the xbox at 1080I.

Same here, only on the component input. I have a little work to do to clean up my power, (I'm having dedicated circuits run to the HT room to get everything on the same isolated circuit) but one other possibility from a standard ground loop is interference from the component cables crossing a power cable. I know some people have cleared up the bars by separating the cables from crossing. I plan to eventually run my power cable out the other side of the projector so it is never in contact with my component cables. The only problem is that there is an electrical conduit that crosses the bay that my component cables are fished through, so they would still cross a power cable, but at more of a right angle, which is supposed to be better.

If you get it figured out/fixed, let us (me!) know-

Thanks,

Wes

I am also thinking of adding a resolution to TT (we can do that, right?) of 854x480 and then adding the same to the NVidia driver and seeing if the two can sync together with that. Could be fun. Could be a mess.

Please try that. Thats what I did, in combo with the 72hz, and it looked just great, super sharp even without ffdshow in the mix...BUT...BUTTTTTTT...BUTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT....I got a several pixel wide strip o crap down the right side in TT. I could get rid of it with overscan, but then the scan lines and test patterns were shadowed and looked like crap. If you can get it to work, I will build a NEW AMD machine just to see it in action. I have a P4 running at home now but I personally think its a wash in video realm. AMD is a better value maybe. Will build a duel core AMD next. We have duel core, sli rig with two 6800's running at work...quite the little rig.

Please try that. Thats what I did, in combo with the 72hz, and it looked just great, super sharp even without ffdshow in the mix...BUT...BUTTTTTTT...BUTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT....I got a several pixel wide strip o crap down the right side in TT. I could get rid of it with overscan, but then the scan lines and test patterns were shadowed and looked like crap. If you can get it to work, I will build a NEW AMD machine just to see it in action. I have a P4 running at home now but I personally think its a wash in video realm. AMD is a better value maybe. Will build a duel core AMD next. We have duel core, sli rig with two 6800's running at work...quite the little rig.

The new MOBO the WAF got me is capable of dual core - so in the future........

OK, a little help with the AR editor. If I want to add 854x480, do I go into the AR.dat file and change all the 848s to 854

OR

do I go into the AR editor, uncheck "Lock Aspect Ratio," and stretch it to 854, then click "Save?" I'm assuming this replaces rather than adds another resolution. Oh well. Perhaps I can do both - maybe that will "fix" the line of crap.

I suppose I should change everything and see how bad I can mess up my new setup. I'll send you a PM once I try.

I am not filtering much... so maybe that's it... I don't know my exact settings but I am not doing 4x upscaling or anything...


That's the key to a low-budget HTPC, no post processing. Just pixel map the player through DVI and enjoy the huge improvement over all but 3 DVD players.

Most anything over 500 meg with a 5200 Nvidia card will do it. I used an old PIII at 1gig and a 5700 and love it.

-W

Wow...

So we are watching my cousins kid and I set him up on the xbox with the 4805 to play some lego star wars. I go in the other room for a minute to start some downloads and I hear "hey what happened? The games still going!!!!"

I come back out and for whatever reason the GF decided she wanted to plug in some xmas lights... and she pulled the plug on the isolator for the PJ... then plugged it right back in again... and it came back on...

I am about to have a fit. I have made it clear to her that the only thing that I REALLY don't want happening is to strike the hot bulb. I explained to her that if she is using the PJ she should always call me for anything with it... even if I am at work call my cell... I am so steaming!!!

Wow...

So we are watching my cousins kid and I set him up on the xbox with the 4805 to play some lego star wars. I go in the other room for a minute to start some downloads and I hear "hey what happened? The games still going!!!!"

I come back out and for whatever reason the GF decided she wanted to plug in some xmas lights... and she pulled the plug on the isolator for the PJ... then plugged it right back in again... and it came back on...

I am about to have a fit. I have made it clear to her that the only thing that I REALLY don't want happening is to strike the hot bulb. I explained to her that if she is using the PJ she should always call me for anything with it... even if I am at work call my cell... I am so steaming!!!

Sounds like my buddy who had a GF that "forgot" to add oil to gas for his outboard = endgame failure. I swear she was a "10" and he dumped her a$$ in a New York minute. :D

Wow...

So we are watching my cousins kid and I set him up on the xbox with the 4805 to play some lego star wars. I go in the other room for a minute to start some downloads and I hear "hey what happened? The games still going!!!!"

I come back out and for whatever reason the GF decided she wanted to plug in some xmas lights... and she pulled the plug on the isolator for the PJ... then plugged it right back in again... and it came back on...

I am about to have a fit. I have made it clear to her that the only thing that I REALLY don't want happening is to strike the hot bulb. I explained to her that if she is using the PJ she should always call me for anything with it... even if I am at work call my cell... I am so steaming!!!

I wouldn't worry TOO much (ok, maybe just a little)... what would kill the life of the bulb more was if the bulb failed to restrike. Failure to strike the bulb is what you don't want.

I wouldn't worry TOO much (ok, maybe just a little)... what would kill the life of the bulb more was if the bulb failed to restrike. Failure to strike the bulb is what you don't want.

I know failure to strike is the absolute worst but I am still steaming at the whole situation... especially because I am not sure it didn't fail at least once... she was fiddling with it at the actual switch on the unit but she said she unplugged it was what made it go off... makes me think she plugged it back in, turned it off at the switch, turned it back on again at least once. I am too steamed to ask.

Something good did come out of it all though...

I decided since I may have just knocked numerous hours off my bulb life I might as well use the pj for a while and tried to clear up my rolling bars issue.

Well it turns out there are 2 kinds of rolling bars I suffer from. One is apparently 2 bars, spaced about 1/3 screen apart of slightly different widths that move slowly up the screen.

The other is what appears looks kind of like ripples quickly rolling down the screen and dozens of them. Well I found if I let the PJ syn in on a source and it has the ripples, then turn off my reciever and turn it back on... ripples are gone.

It's a step for me because the 2 bars are significantly easier to live with than the ripples. Makes me unhappy I have to turn off my reciever but it's a step...

Gotta find some silver lining right?

And as if to ruin any silver lining she came out of the bedroom to see if the pj was ok and I had to ask...

she unplugged it...

plugged it back in...

no picture came out so she turned off the switch...

turned it right back on...

STEAMING!!!

First off, having read these forums for months now, I have learnt so much about my beloved 4805. I just wanted to quickly say for anyone doing a search about the ND2 filter. Get one, I always felt that the picture was overly bright, but stupidly thought that getting a ND2 filter would make the picture look dim.. boy was I wrong, it`s a hell of an improvement pictur details and colours way better.

Now secondly, I got an AVIA disc for Xmas, I know realise why so many posts about the settings, (I have tried a search) The Colour and Hue saturation, I can not for the life of me get them any way near, what Avia advises to aim for. I have a 92" screen in a light controlled room, the scren is a 1.1 gain. I realize that everyone settings would be different, but would appreciate any numbers where I should be looking towards to narrow it down. Many Thanks....


Oh, by the way ND2 filter, get one..... I would never have known about it without your guys knowledge, thankyou.

Thanks, its a really nice place and my overclock improved a lot :-)
Anyone knows of a decent and CHEAP 100ft dvi cable?


Think you might need a booster beyond 50 ' but try MONO PRICE. You can see there link at the top of any page.

Thanks Dag, what I did was take a 3 prong cord from a computer and pulled out the ground pin - I assumed this did the same as a 2 to 3 adapter, am I mistaken?

Rolling bars were still there in this case :(

Forgive me if this has already been suggested, but it's hard to keep up with all the posts in this thread. The simple way to determine if it's a groud loop or not is to use one of those 3-to-2 prong electrical adapters. If the bars go away, then it is a ground loop. Once you determine that, then you know what to work on.

I had a ground loop problem and have eliminated it, so rest assured that if that's what you have, you *can* fix it.

-Dan

Go back a couple of pages and read my post on how I calibrated my DVR.

Before you do that though, get rid of that stinking S-video cable and grab some component cables. Otherwise, your just spinning your wheels and getting no closer in your journey to a better picture. You've been hanging around here long enough to know better.

If you DVR doesn't have component output then you need to get a new one that does and it doesn't necessarily have to be an HD DVR, but since that is the way of the future it won't hurt and the HD channels are even better eye candy.

The problem is that the DVR does not have Component Out - the best it can do is S-video and I know that sucks, actually none of the Standard Dish DVR's have Component Out. I think it is only when you get a HD-DVR or an HD receiver that you have a choice of Component or HDMI outputs.

So I guess the only solution is to upgrade to an HD receiver, that would give me a component out, although I don't know if it will be easy as I only connect 1 tv and the only HD-DVR receiver they have is for connecting 2 rooms.

I know the HD channels would look great, however, does the receiver imporve performance on the SD channels as well? I would hope that the data would be less compressed for those channels just because of the HD receiver.

Btw, I read your post on how you calibarated by recording a movie on the DVR. Hmmm....that could be tried once I have the signal switched to component for both sources.

The problem is that the DVR does not have Component Out - the best it can do is S-video and I know that sucks, actually none of the Standard Dish DVR's have Component Out. I think it is only when you get a HD-DVR or an HD receiver that you have a choice of Component or HDMI outputs.

So I guess the only solution is to upgrade to an HD receiver, that would give me a component out, although I don't know if it will be easy as I only connect 1 tv and the only HD-DVR receiver they have is for connecting 2 rooms.

I know the HD channels would look great, however, does the receiver imporve performance on the SD channels as well? I would hope that the data would be less compressed for those channels just because of the HD receiver.

Btw, I read your post on how you calibarated by recording a movie on the DVR. Hmmm....that could be tried once I have the signal switched to component for both sources.

I have the Dish 811 with Component and DVI-D. I also have (I was testing but have decided to keep the AVR) a Yammy HTR 5990 with2 HDMI in 1 out and 3 components in and 1 out. THe Yamaha does upconversion and scaling and I have the PJ connected with the HDMI out from the AVR (Just kinda fell in love with this receiver). HD content looks great including the football games, discovery, HBOHD, SHOHD, HDNET, local OTA channels as well. The SD content is OK, but I prefer to watch that on my Toshiba 61" 7 YR OLD rptv. For some reason I can not connect the DVI-D to HDMI input on the AVR from the 811, I get a blank screen. (Actually it shows a 1920 X 540 source on the bottom left of the screen then goes blank)

So I connect the 811 to the component in and ran a 50' component out cable to my 61" toshiba's DTV input so I can watch HD content (Football :) ) with 5.1 audio content in the PJ room (Through the HDMI out to PJ)and SD (as well as HD) in the family room. Gotta love those UHF remotes from Dish.

I am still in the testing phase and I have a few noticable problems with the HD content. THe PJ shows as the input from the component to HDMI through the AVR as a 1080i signal when using the Dish 811 and Although the PQ looks great, when watching football I lose the upper and lower video. I mean the scores, down info and any info display at the bottom of the screen is lost. I think that by passing 1080i from the HDMI to the DVI-D of the PJ that there is no scaling or de-interlacing going on. I am going to try it with the component out of the AVR to component in on the PJ to see if that fixes the problem as long as the PQ doesn't suffer.

I am also going to activate my 508 DVR and try to use the s-video connection on the AVR to up-convert it to 480P which might give me better SD PQ. Like I said, I'm still testing but I LOVE my 4805 with yammy setup. I love the WOW factor with all my friends and relatives with the oohs and Awwwwe's. :D

I am still in the testing phase and I have a few noticable problems with the HD content. THe PJ shows as the input from the component to HDMI through the AVR as a 1080i signal when using the Dish 811 and Although the PQ looks great, when watching football I lose the upper and lower video. I mean the scores, down info and any info display at the bottom of the screen is lost. I think that by passing 1080i from the HDMI to the DVI-D of the PJ that there is no scaling or de-interlacing going on. I am going to try it with the component out of the AVR to component in on the PJ to see if that fixes the problem as long as the PQ doesn't suffer.

Sounds like you either have the 4805 in Letterbox mode or you are using a zoom mode on your STB that you are unaware of (or even possibly the yammy).

and I have to say it is amazing. I plugged it in right away in a DVD player I had using S video and it looked good.

The thing is, I plan on connecting it to the PC using a DVI out. Is this the right cable? http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10238&cs_id=1023801&p_id=2501&seq=1&format=2&style=

Also, can anyone recommend another site to get an HDMI to M1 adapter? Monoprice seems to be out at the moment. Thanks.

Speed, have you tried the the overscan setting?

and I have to say it is amazing. I plugged it in right away in a DVD player I had using S video and it looked good.

The thing is, I plan on connecting it to the PC using a DVI out. Is this the right cable? http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10238&cs_id=1023801&p_id=2501&seq=1&format=2&style=

Also, can anyone recommend another site to get an HDMI to M1 adapter? Monoprice seems to be out at the moment. Thanks.

That cable will definately work. Try tigerdirect.com for a cheap HDMI to DVI (you won't need HDMI to M1 as the M1 connection is just on the projector)

I
I mean the scores, down info and any info display at the bottom of the screen is lost. I think that by passing 1080i from the HDMI to the DVI-D of the PJ that there is no scaling or de-interlacing going on. I am going to try it with the component out of the AVR to component in on the PJ to see if that fixes the problem as long as the PQ doesn't suffer.



DishNet 811 user also. Have two of them. 1 on my 57 inch Hitachi HD RPTV, the other on the 4805. Try pushing the page up button on the 811's remote, it'll toggle the strecth modes.

Also, make sure the 811 is set to pass 1080i. Unfortunately the 811 doesn't have an option to pass native. So for me I just leave it set at 1080i. When watching HD content the little box in the lower left of the info screen will say "NORMAL" then when watching SD content It'll say "STRETCH". It'll remember the modes you select for HD & SD.

The next gen rcvr to replace the 811 is the 411 w/ HDMI out and will fortunately pass native. But, getting one will be whole nother story!

.

That cable will definately work. Try tigerdirect.com for a cheap HDMI to DVI (you won't need HDMI to M1 as the M1 connection is just on the projector)

but I'm looking at the DVI slot on my video card and it has an input for pins all throughout. The cable on monoprice seems to have the middle part empty. Will this make a difference?

BTW, I'm sorry, I didn't make it clear why I needed the HDMI to M1. I was thinking of getting an HD receiver or upconverting DVD player and connecting the HDMI out to the projector's M1 part.

I'm wondering how I can do that with the HDMI to DVI.

Thank you.

There are different kinds of DVI (I believe one kind can carry analogue) cables, but this one looks like it should do the trick

The DVI port on the back of your computer is a DVI-I, which means it is capable of both analog and digital. The cable from monoprice has a DVI-D end, which means it will only carry the digital signals (not a bad thing) and works fine with your DVI-I port on the computer. Its the same thing I use :)

As for the HDMI to DVI - I figured you'd just get that and stick it onto the end of the cable from monoprice!

but I'm looking at the DVI slot on my video card and it has an input for pins all throughout. The cable on monoprice seems to have the middle part empty. Will this make a difference?

BTW, I'm sorry, I didn't make it clear why I needed the HDMI to M1. I was thinking of getting an HD receiver or upconverting DVD player and connecting the HDMI out to the projector's M1 part.

I'm wondering how I can do that with the HDMI to DVI.

Thank you.

The DVI port on the back of your computer is a DVI-I, which means it is capable of both analog and digital. The cable from monoprice has a DVI-D end, which means it will only carry the digital signals (not a bad thing) and works fine with your DVI-I port on the computer. Its the same thing I use :)

As for the HDMI to DVI - I figured you'd just get that and stick it onto the end of the cable from monoprice!

Ah, got ya. I realized I can just get a female DVI on one end and the HDMI on the other. Is that correct? I guess I'm kinda slow today! :)

Ah, got ya. I realized I can just get a female DVI on one end and the HDMI on the other. Is that correct? I guess I'm kinda slow today! :)

Exactly! :)

Rolling bars were still there in this case :(Make sure your cable is properly grounded where it enters your premises.

upconverting DVD player and connecting the HDMI out to the projector's M1 part.There's no point to upconverting when connecting to the SP4805. What would you 'upconvert to'??? The projector is 480p. Don't waste your money.

Is anyone gonna give one of these suckers a try? I think they'll be shipping in March.

Click here for specs (http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/hddvd/pdf/HD-A1.pdf)

I have the 4805, when I play an HD source at 1080i, my Projector will say 1920 x 520 or soemthing like that (not sure the exact number?) or it will say 1080i

does this mean that My resolution is now 1920 x 5xx, becasuse I thought the projector was a 854 x 480 resolution?

My friend has the same setup and he swears that the pixels get smaller when he upconverts.

I'm not so sure...I think they look the same.....can anyone help out on this?

Thanks!

I have the 4805, when I play an HD source at 1080i, my Projector will say 1920 x 520 or soemthing like that (not sure the exact number?) or it will say 1080i

does this mean that My resolution is now 1920 x 5xx, becasuse I thought the projector was a 854 x 480 resolution?

My friend has the same setup and he swears that the pixels get smaller when he upconverts.

I'm not so sure...I think they look the same.....can anyone help out on this?

Thanks!

The 4805 is showing you the input it is receiving. Everything it is outputing is output at the 4805's native resolution of 854x480.

does this mean that My resolution is now 1920 x 5xx, becasuse I thought the projector was a 854 x 480 resolution?The SP4805 only has one resolution and that is 854x480. The projector will indicate what kind of signal it is receiving but everything is displayed in the native resolution of 854x480 !!

My friend has the same setup and he swears that the pixels get smaller when he upconverts.I have a bridge I'd like to sell your friend!! :cool:

It's amazing what people can convince themselves is true.

For instance, I can actually dance when I drink and the remaining women get better looking just before the bar closes.

I purchased a refurbished 4805 from Black Friday for my new apartment, and now need to purchase everything else. So I want to make sure I have everything covered since this will be a new HT room (13'x16') for me.

Screen: 49” x 87” Durotherm, either Beh Silverscreen or RS-MMMaxx paint
Mount: DIY Ceiling Monkeyman Mount
DVD Player: Oppo 971
Game Consoles: Xbox w/ HD Pack
Surround System: Athena Micra 6 Black
Receiver: Onkyo TX-SR503B Refurbished
Cables: Not sure what I need, but guessing from Monoprice.com
Misc: Black Velvet Curtains, and BO Cloth for light control

Any suggestions? Anything I'm forgetting?
The only thing I'm debating is the Receiver. Should I spend the extra money for the Panasonic XR55 or HK Receiver? Also, I'm TRYING to find the Athena Point 5's instead of the Micra's.

My friend has the same setup and he swears that the pixels get smaller when he upconverts.

Thanks!

Get a ruler or measuring tape. Go up to the screen and measure the distance between the black (screen door) lines. Each is one pixel. They do not change size.

He may be noticing some softening due to upconverting and scaling back down but you can do that more or less by defocusing the lense a little or rubbing some vaseline on your glasses (if you wear them).

this will be a new HT room (13'x16') for me. Screen: 49” x 87” Durotherm, either Beh Silverscreen or RS-MMMaxx paintYou will need a 62mm Hoya ND2 filter (http://www.acephotodigital.com/sc/review-product-information.asp?id=469345292&rf=froogle&dfdate=12_19_2005) to tame the brightness.

So I want to make sure I have everything covered since this will be a new HT room (13'x16') for me.

Screen: 49” x 87” Durotherm, either Beh Silverscreen or RS-MMMaxx paint

Everything else looks great but... If I were you and depending on where you live consider a Do-able Screen. See the thread in the DIY screen section. It is amazing, measures 49X96 and does not need painting. just have Home Depot Cut 10" off it for you. You can have a nice 100" dia screen for around $40 (includes frame, flat black paint (for frame) and mounting).

Just a suggestion,

Homer

Has anyone had an ND2 filter fall out? I am looking to get one but my PJ is right over my couch... woudln't want it on my head one day...

And does it have to be a hoya to fit right?

Has anyone had an ND2 filter fall out? And does it have to be a hoya to fit right?Any 62mm filter will fit. No, they will not fall out. As there is no threading inside the 4805 focus ring, it is a friction fit. But I actually have to pull pretty hard with my finger nails in the gap to get the filter off. IAC, it doesn't weigh much more than a quarter.

Any 62mm filter will fit. No, they will not fall out. As there is no threading inside the 4805 focus ring, it is a friction fit. But I actually have to pull pretty hard with my finger nails in the gap to get the filter off. IAC, it doesn't weigh much more than a quarter.

I was using a Kenko 62mm ND2 that I picked up at a local camera store. I'd go with a Hoya though.

Is anyone gonna give one of these suckers a try? I think they'll be shipping in March.

Click here for specs (http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/hddvd/pdf/HD-A1.pdf)

It'll likely cost a grand and you would be better off hooking it up to this:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/pdf/projector_spec_3157.pdf

I have that issue if I go to 854 x 480, but have never seen it at 848. Did you have a driver change or anything recently?


A few weeks back I was playing around with the 854x480 game a bit. I prolly screwed up the drivers. I'll dump and re-load them new. Do you tend to re-install DirectX when you do this?... back in the old days it was advisable.

-W

It'll likely cost a grand and you would be better off hooking it up to this:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/pdf/projector_spec_3157.pdf

Nope. Pre-orders are being taken now for $499. I do like the specs on the IN76 though.

I purchased a refurbished 4805 from Black Friday for my new apartment, and now need to purchase everything else. So I want to make sure I have everything covered since this will be a new HT room (13'x16') for me.

Screen: 49” x 87” Durotherm, either Beh Silverscreen or RS-MMMaxx paint
Mount: DIY Ceiling Monkeyman Mount
DVD Player: Oppo 971
Game Consoles: Xbox w/ HD Pack
Surround System: Athena Micra 6 Black
Receiver: Onkyo TX-SR503B Refurbished
Cables: Not sure what I need, but guessing from Monoprice.com
Misc: Black Velvet Curtains, and BO Cloth for light control

Any suggestions? Anything I'm forgetting?
The only thing I'm debating is the Receiver. Should I spend the extra money for the Panasonic XR55 or HK Receiver? Also, I'm TRYING to find the Athena Point 5's instead of the Micra's.

I don't know about others, but I have mine running through a UPS to protect the bulb from a power outage where the lights flicker a couple of times.

I have what many here would call a good dilemma on my hands. I have a separate bedroom set up for my 4805 with all the bells and whistles. Recently my wife and I have started to redo our family room with limited space. One of the first items to go was the old 36" Toshiba TV we did most of our normal TV watching on.

The dilemma is part of our budget to redo the family room is to possibly replace that 36" TV with something that takes up less space (at least away from a wall). So my options are a 42" HD Plasma (720P), a 50" DLP (720P), or my other option is just to turn the 4805 into our everyday TV and use the money to replace bulbs down the line from the extra use. I guess my biggest worry is dropping lets say around $1500 for either one of those TV's and then realizing I would have been more pleased just watching my 4805 more. Has anyone here had this dilemma, or have a plasma or dlp set that you can let me know if you feel they were worth the money? I should mention that I have the 4805 in a room with just about total light control so day time watching is not an issue. Thanks in advance.

Quick question about "storage" of the 4805.

I currently have it set-up on an end table for projectiong purposes.
The room is a multi-use room, and I'll be using the PJ for painting murals so I didn't want to mount it - yet.

Anyways, when I am done watching the PJ should I unplug it and put it a closet, and cover it....or simply leave it plugged in where it sits.

I have 2 dogs that shed, so I want to ensure that it's not collecting a bunch of unneccesary crap...good idea or bad idea?

Thanks!
RC4

Dustman52, I had a similar dilema. At one time I was going to buy a flat screen of some type to use in the room with my 4805. I found it was cheaper and easier to just buy some small 19" TV's for 78 bucks on sale and use them in the bedroom sfor simple news viewing.

The only thing I would do now in my media room is to find a cheap LCD flat panel and hook that up so you can catch the news or just program the DVR. I find that I watch my 4805 when I want to sit down and relax for a bit on the weeknights. On the weekends I had it running for hours for football, movies and to catch up with what the DVR recorded over the week. At one point I had 20 Three Stooges episodes on the DVR and had a marathon one weekend with the 4805 and the kids.

In one year I will hit the 1,000 hour mark. What happens to you is that since you know the bulb costs money, you become very selective in what you watch and no longer just put the set on for the backround.

I figure that the cost of a few bulbs is cheaper than a 50 inch plasma. I also figure that with new PJ's every year, I may upgrade sooner than I think. When you have a dedicated set up, your viewing becomes special and you become acustomed to seeing everything on a 100 inch screen. 36 " does not cut it.

Most of the set ups I see in the photo section have smaller tube TV's so the kids can play video games and grandma can watch her lame shows. Reality is another story though. The kids rather have the games in their rooms. My inlaws, grandma and grandpa were with us for two weeks during Xma break. They could not stop watching HD Law and Order, CSI and other programs on the 4805. They liked to stay up late and could not believe how HD Leno and Letterman looked.

If you have a sitting area in your bedroom, consider a cheap 30 " LCD with another HD box or a cablecard equipped set. It will look classy and your neighbors will consider you media savvy and trend setters. I bought a 20" GO VIdeo LCD TV for less than 3 bills with tax that astounds me with the picture for a non HD set.

PKinSFLA

Quick question about "storage" of the 4805.

I currently have it set-up on an end table for projectiong purposes.
The room is a multi-use room, and I'll be using the PJ for painting murals so I didn't want to mount it - yet.

Anyways, when I am done watching the PJ should I unplug it and put it a closet, and cover it....or simply leave it plugged in where it sits.

I have 2 dogs that shed, so I want to ensure that it's not collecting a bunch of unneccesary crap...good idea or bad idea?

Thanks!
RC4

Unplugged, covered in a closet sounds perfect. Just make sur eyou give it a good half hour after turning off to cool down before you cover it.

I have what many here would call a good dilemma on my hands. I have a separate bedroom set up for my 4805 with all the bells and whistles. Recently my wife and I have started to redo our family room with limited space. One of the first items to go was the old 36" Toshiba TV we did most of our normal TV watching on.

The dilemma is part of our budget to redo the family room is to possibly replace that 36" TV with something that takes up less space (at least away from a wall). So my options are a 42" HD Plasma (720P), a 50" DLP (720P), or my other option is just to turn the 4805 into our everyday TV and use the money to replace bulbs down the line from the extra use. I guess my biggest worry is dropping lets say around $1500 for either one of those TV's and then realizing I would have been more pleased just watching my 4805 more. Has anyone here had this dilemma, or have a plasma or dlp set that you can let me know if you feel they were worth the money? I should mention that I have the 4805 in a room with just about total light control so day time watching is not an issue. Thanks in advance.

Just get another 4805 or even an X1A or X2 or X3 for everyday TV - cheaper and you'll like it better.

-W

Has anyone here had this dilemma, or have a plasma or dlp set that you can let me know if you feel they were worth the money? I should mention that I have the 4805 in a room with just about total light control so day time watching is not an issue. Thanks in advance.

When I first got the PJ my thought was to use other TVs for regular watching and the PJ only for dedicated movies or stretches of time.

Then I figured that for me a bulb should last 3 years, I don't see myself keeping this PJ for more than 6 years tops what with better ones abound. So it was better for me to keep my cash for a bulb and I stashed a 20 inch LCD in the bedroom, put a 26 inch widescreen LCD TV on my computer in the computer room (has TV tuner) and use one of the inputs on the 19inch LCD on the HTPC for quick shows and tivo setting.

Got it all done for under a grand and have TV in every room vs just the living room. A plasma was gonna cost me around $1500 and would have still left me with no TV in the other rooms (I like to multitask). So by those figures by the time I buy a new bulb and then dump this PJ in 6 years I will still be slightly ahead of the game and have had versatility the whole time.

If you don't mind sitting in a dark room for normal tv watching then I say keep the pj only and put the money elsewhere or save for new bulbs.

42-60 inch sets just aren't going to have a wow factor after a PJ sized image, they will just feel small. So I say keep the small Tvs small (under 27 inches) and make the PJ the big one.

Has anyone here had this dilemma, or have a plasma or dlp set that you can let me know if you feel they were worth the money?We tossed our Hitachi Ultravision 52" RPTV altogether and use the SP4805 for everything. ... 2,379 hrs since last June.

My buddy just got a 60" Pioneer plasma (~CD$7000) and was showing it off on Christmas eve. Yuch! He's coming over this weekend to see my 92" 4805 setup. He's gonna sh*t.

We are in the midst of a major renovation, including the kitchen. I planned on replacing our wall-mounted kitchen CRT TV with a 16:9 LCD or somesuch. After looking at all the options, including Sharp Aquos, etc., I decided to forget that idea altogether.

Instead, I took my "spare bulb" (a BF refurb 4805) and am ceiling mounting it in the kitchen with a 5' throw blowing a 150fL 37" display. WOW. (I think I'm gonna put an HD2 on it, if you know what I mean! ;) )

I sure as heck couldn't find an LCD or plasma anywhere as nice as that and it only cost me $500!!

BTW, everyone complains about lamp prices. It's $0.10/hr.!! Quit whining.

Btw, I read your post on how you calibarated by recording a movie on the DVR. Hmmm....that could be tried once I have the signal switched to component for both sources.

If you have a DVR from Dish or D* then the recorders are pure digital recorders setup to record the direct signal from them only. There is no way to record anything that is not broadcasted from them.

I have the same issue with my DTivo unit.

Hi,

I know cavu bought the lamp warranty for $90. Has anyone else bought the warranty. I'm thinking of getting it and am wondering what all the opinions are. I've been using the projector everyday about 2-3 hours, and more on the weekends. I'm thinking if I was to start using it more, maybe I should get the warranty.

What's you suggestion?
Thanks!

God question hubbabubba. My viewing habits are becoming VERy similar to yours.

If you have a DVR from Dish or D* then the recorders are pure digital recorders setup to record the direct signal from them only. There is no way to record anything that is not broadcasted from them.

I have the same issue with my DTivo unit.

Scott, maybe you missed the point.

The idea is to record a movie on your DVR that you already own on DVD.

Make sure that the DVD you use for this is well regarded as having been a good transfer.

Assuming that you have calibrated the 4805 with Avia or DVE and saved the settings to one of the 4805's user presets, you can then use you receiver to switch between the DVR and dvd player. You then adjust the image from the DVR until it matches the image from the dvd player as best you can and save that to a different 4805 user preset.

I currently use all three user presets that the 4805 allows. My dvd player, DVR and Xbox 360 all have their own presets and I switch between them depending on which device I'm using.

While this may not be the perfect way to calibrate the contrast and brightness levels from your Sat/Cable box, it's the best thing I've been able to come up with.

Now what would really be cool is if the Sat/Cable companies would provide a channel dedicated to test patterns for calibrating your display. But I'm afraid that is most definitely a pipe dream.

We tossed our Hitachi Ultravision 52" RPTV altogether and use the SP4805 for everything. ... 2,379 hrs since last June.

Instead, I took my "spare bulb" (a BF refurb 4805) and am ceiling mounting it in the kitchen with a 5' throw blowing a 150fL 37" display. WOW. (I think I'm gonna put an HD2 on it, if you know what I mean! ;) )

I sure as heck couldn't find an LCD or plasma anywhere as nice as that and it only cost me $500!!

BTW, everyone complains about lamp prices. It's $0.10/hr.!! Quit whining.

Wow! That's a lot of hours- very impressive! We only watch our 4805 as well. I have a Sony Wega 27" set in there for the kids, etc., but my wife and I never watched a single thing on the tv after the 4805 went in. Not one. . .

You have got to post some pics of that kitchen setup when you're done- I would *love* to see that. . .

423 hours in 30 days for me! :eek: :eek: :eek:
I better get the lamp warantee.
I want to see a pic of that kitchen setup too.

wow thats intense you guys must never shut it down, i,ve put 83 hrs on mine in two months(just movies) and the missus is busting my chops for spending to much time watching the big picture...

p.s. i to would like to see the kitchen setup

Thanks Dag, what I did was take a 3 prong cord from a computer and pulled out the ground pin - I assumed this did the same as a 2 to 3 adapter, am I mistaken?

Rolling bars were still there in this case :(
I'm not sure, to tell you the truth, but I would think that's the same. Another poster mentioned unplugging your cable. The biggest contributor to my ground loop was my cable. I believe you said you have satellite or something like that, so perhaps that won't help.

But if it *is* a ground loop, you can isolate it. Start with nothing connected to the PJ. You should not see any ground loop. Then, very deliberately, connect one thing at a time. *Only* one thing at a time. For instance:

1) Hook up your component cables to the PJ but don't plug the other ends into anything. Is it still OK? If not, probably bad cables or they're routed next to something causing interference.

2) Plug the component cables into your receiver. Plug the receiver's power in and turn it on, but do not connect anything else to the receiver. Any problem yet? If so, you know it's a ground loop and what's causing it.

Continue on this way one step at a time. Be aware that it might start happening after connecting something you wouldn't dream would cause the problem. For instance, in my case, just connecting the cable TV cable to one of my devices caused the problem. I didn't have to be watching the cable -- just having it connected caused the problem.

If you're patient enough, you can find the problem.

BTW, my experience was similar to another poster's -- adding a Monster power bar and plugging *all* components into the power bar (including the PJ, and the Cable TV cable) eliminated the ground loop for me.

Good luck! I was pulling my hair out for weeks until I found the problem. Now everything is fine and it's just a bad memory.

-Dan

I am a first time PJ buyer. I was going to get a 720p model, but with all the problems I have read about the Pana 900, I think I will wait a year to see what happens with the Epson 550. And prices for the Epson 800. I have a 14.5' x 21' dark basement room. I will be using the Behr flat white wall. 106-110" diag. It will be the 14.5' wall. My main seating will be about 13-15' from the screen. The screen will be 5" from the ceiling, and 22" from the floor. What kind of placement can I use with the Infocus 4805. Can I put it on a 20" table, where the lens will be even with the bottom of the screen? Can I ceiling mount it on a shelf sitting up-right on the shelf, with the lens even with the top of the screen? Whats the minimum and maximun distance from the screen in which to mount it, of put on the 20" high table. I can buy it in person at Circuit City for $999. And get a 4 year extended warranty for only $179. If it breaks, they send you another one, they don't fix the one you send back, or take back.

What kind of placement can I use with the Infocus 4805?See the Infocus Installation Guidelines (http://www.infocus.com/service/howto/install.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&) and the ScreenPlay 4805 Product Support (http://www.infocus.com/service/sp4805/resources.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&) web-pages. In particular, look at the Excel Screen Calculator on the second page.

Thank you Dagware for these tips, they will definately be my next steps if what I just discovered hasn't worked! I decided to look elsewhere in the house for the potential problem and there they were: two X10 compatable remote light switch/dimmers. I replaced them with standard light switches and my rolling bars are currently GONE. I've been fooled before since the bars tend to be intermittent. I'll follow up after an evening of viewing to say whether they are really gone :)

I'm not sure, to tell you the truth, but I would think that's the same. Another poster mentioned unplugging your cable. The biggest contributor to my ground loop was my cable. I believe you said you have satellite or something like that, so perhaps that won't help.

But if it *is* a ground loop, you can isolate it. Start with nothing connected to the PJ. You should not see any ground loop. Then, very deliberately, connect one thing at a time. *Only* one thing at a time. For instance:

1) Hook up your component cables to the PJ but don't plug the other ends into anything. Is it still OK? If not, probably bad cables or they're routed next to something causing interference.

2) Plug the component cables into your receiver. Plug the receiver's power in and turn it on, but do not connect anything else to the receiver. Any problem yet? If so, you know it's a ground loop and what's causing it.

Continue on this way one step at a time. Be aware that it might start happening after connecting something you wouldn't dream would cause the problem. For instance, in my case, just connecting the cable TV cable to one of my devices caused the problem. I didn't have to be watching the cable -- just having it connected caused the problem.

If you're patient enough, you can find the problem.

BTW, my experience was similar to another poster's -- adding a Monster power bar and plugging *all* components into the power bar (including the PJ, and the Cable TV cable) eliminated the ground loop for me.

Good luck! I was pulling my hair out for weeks until I found the problem. Now everything is fine and it's just a bad memory.

-Dan

whens the best time to remove the nd2 filtter on this projector what hours do you thhink

whens the best time to remove the nd2 filtter on this projector what hours do you thhink

When you decide that it's too dim with the filter on. Really, there's no hard and fast rule, as each bulb will dim at it's own rate.

I've got 750 hours, and my ND2 is still on (82" screen)

Wes

I've got 750 hours, and my ND2 is still on (82" screen)I've got 2400 hrs on my 92" and my ND2 is still on. I've taken it off from time to time but have always put it back on.

cavu,
Where's the pic of that kitchen setup???
Would you post one if I sent you a nice fruitcake? It's only been re-gifted 12 times in 8 years. ;)

I hate to say it,m ive had my 4805 since a week after bf and iu have 8 hours on. I just dont have time to watch it. I will say that those 8 hours were amazing !

I've got 750 hours, and my ND2 is still on (82" screen)

Wes

I've got 700 - just took mine off about two weeks ago (92" screen). HD is now almost too bright, but for DVDs, I began to notice the image getting a little dim. Then Boom, back to where I started. Pretty cool.

I think I got rid of the rolling bars!

So I have tried unplugging my cable before as suggested and it never cleared up the bars...

But today while going over my cables I noticed my coax cable (for tv) had a broken part in the shiedling.

I replaced the cable and still had the rolling bars... removed the cable from the wall and the bars either dissapeared or were significantly reduced to where I am having troulbe seeing them!

I will have to play around more tomorrow but I think this might have been it!

Thanks to those who suggested!

Can someone help me with the 4805 when i play pal dvds the projector is fine but when i put a ntsc dvd in the piture is all messed up and i have to use the remote button to select re-adjust and its then ok then if i go back and put a pal dvd in i have to do the same thing on the remote button.

i thought it would re-adjust automatic what dvd format i put in my last 2 projectors did ??? i have it hooked up with component is there an option or somthing ???

i thought it would re-adjust automatic what dvd format i put in What firmware version do you have?

Scott, maybe you missed the point.

The idea is to record a movie on your DVR that you already own on DVD.

Make sure that the DVD you use for this is well regarded as having been a good transfer.

Assuming that you have calibrated the 4805 with Avia or DVE and saved the settings to one of the 4805's user presets, you can then use you receiver to switch between the DVR and dvd player. You then adjust the image from the DVR until it matches the image from the dvd player as best you can and save that to a different 4805 user preset.

I currently use all three user presets that the 4805 allows. My dvd player, DVR and Xbox 360 all have their own presets and I switch between them depending on which device I'm using.

While this may not be the perfect way to calibrate the contrast and brightness levels from your Sat/Cable box, it's the best thing I've been able to come up with.

Now what would really be cool is if the Sat/Cable companies would provide a channel dedicated to test patterns for calibrating your display. But I'm afraid that is most definitely a pipe dream.

Thanks for the clarification. Yes I did miss that. That is a good idea.

Try here:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103918&cp=2032057&f=Taxonomy%2FRSK%2F2032057&categoryId=2032057&kwCatId=2032057&kw=component+switch&parentPage=search



Thanx!

I'll swing by Rat Shack and see if this is gonna work!

Griff

Ja Phule and Deerhunter. I had the STB in Stretch mode and the PJ set to Widescreen instead of Native. When I first received the PJ I found by setting it to Widescreen everything I viewed filled the 92" screen. So I set the PJ to Native aspect and watched the screen shrink to almost a 4:3 size. I had the STB set to 480p to match the PJ so set it to 1080i, also found out that my be-loved Yammy 5990 had 480i to 480p de-interlacing turned on the HDMI ports which stated in the manual that if you turn this option on that 720p and 1080i content may suffer in the PQ area. So I reset the Yammy back to its defaults and started over, also got the DIV-D to HDMI on the Dish 811 working so all is well (Or they sent newer firm ware to the 811 recently). Everything is up and running and now I can watch the football games and see all the information I was missing before. I did this just in time to see my Jags (HD OTA) lose big time last night. :(

I need to setup the Yammy remote to control the PJ so I can program some macros and select the widescreen aspect option when I am playing a DVD that has the dreaded improper aspect ratio for a full display. I hate those upper and lower black bars on a 16:9 widescreen DVD being displayed on my 92" screen.

PS. The Texas/USC game was outstanding in both HD and excitement. This PJ is the best Video investment I ever made, right up there with the 61" Toshiba which is still outstanding for a 7 yr old RPTV. Also the Discovery HD channel since Jan 5th showing all the space tech stuff is also outstanding.

I need to setup the Yammy remote to control the PJ so I can program some macros and select the widescreen aspect option when I am playing a DVD that has the dreaded improper aspect ratio for a full display. I hate those upper and lower black bars on a 16:9 widescreen DVD being displayed on my 92" screen.




Unfortunately you're never going to be able to get rid of those black bars unless you stretch the image in some way, shape or form. Or, are using a constant height setup. It really depends on the aspect ratio of the dvd. If a disc says widescreen, it can be anywhere from 1.78 AR on up. While a 1.78 or even 1.85 AR dvd will fill a 16:9 screen, a 2.35 AR dvd will have the black bars on top & bottom.

That's why I have a dual screen setup. A 16:9 & a 2.35 AR DIY. Click My Home Theater link below to see.

I turned on my pj and there is no picture not even a start up screen light is solid green any suggestions
Thanks Wayne

Thanx!

I'll swing by Rat Shack and see if this is gonna work!

Griff


It works!

I picked one up after this post.
My ratshack had it on sale for 49.99

WOrks like a champ.

Audio is digital coax tho, no toslink if you are thinking of using it to switch digital audio (I wasn't, but wound up having to as it goes to my receiver's component input).

can't wait

Perhaps the bulb simply did not strike. Turn off your pj, wait 30 mins, and start it up again. I have had this happen before - no big deal.

FWIW, the Optoma H30s have this happen a lot.

It works!

I picked one up after this post.
My ratshack had it on sale for 49.99

WOrks like a champ.

Audio is digital coax tho, no toslink if you are thinking of using it to switch digital audio (I wasn't, but wound up having to as it goes to my receiver's component input).

Now wait until RadShack changes the colors on the jacks and calls it an HDTV switcher - throw the Monster THX label on their like they did with their cables. Now you have a $150 value on sale!

It works!

I picked one up after this post.
My ratshack had it on sale for 49.99

WOrks like a champ.

Audio is digital coax tho, no toslink if you are thinking of using it to switch digital audio (I wasn't, but wound up having to as it goes to my receiver's component input).

Well I guess the remote control feature is nice but I was hoping it was going to haveTOSLInK switching as other than the remote feature it sounds just like my $20 ebgames switcher :(

It is a component video switcher. Not a composite.
Only device I have that uses toslink only instead of toslink and Coax digital is my XBOX, so no big deal to me. I just use a toslink nput on my Pio 1014 for my Xbox and change it jst for hat.Otheriwse, just fine for my HD cable and DVD.

Can someone help me with the 4805 when i play pal dvds the projector is fine but when i put a ntsc dvd in the piture is all messed up and i have to use the remote button to select re-adjust and its then ok then if i go back and put a pal dvd in i have to do the same thing on the remote button.


Umm, I think nothing is wrong and something is right. A device that is able to easily switch between different formats designed on different continents with the push of a button would be a good thing...not bad. You don't expect to be able to plug a UK device into a USA wall socket or put diesel fuel in your gasoline powered auto to do you? When we get to a stage where folks are complaining about having to push a button a on remote, we may need to reevaluate our lives a bit.....

I'm gonna go off on a tangent here...

I just pulled apart my 4805 because the fan noise was driving me nuts. I have the entire unit disassembled, and it only took about 15 minutes.

There are two fans, one cooling the lamp, the other cooling the color wheel.

Lamp fan:
Nidec Beta SL 80mm x 80mm x 20mm fan
model: DO8G-12TS4 01
possible product sheet link: http://www.nidec.co.jp/english/product/fm/pdf/p37.pdf
According to this site (http://www.pcpowerandcooling.com/products/reviews/pcstats/) the fan can push 44CFM @ 34 dB. The product sheet converts to about 31 CFM @ 31 dB. Plugging the fan into a molex at 12V reveals that this thing moves a ton of air for it's size, but has a very annoying whine at ANY speed, and it's definitely not air noise, it's motor noise. Finding a quieter fan that moves a similar amount of air shouldn't be too difficult

Color Wheel Fan:
NMB 60mm x 60mm x 15mm fan
Model: MMEZL 12NM002
This fan has the same whine as the Nidec, but it is much quieter. It also moves quite a bit of air, and a larger version of this fan would move more air with MUCH less noise than the Nidec. Maybe that's why Dell uses NMB fans for their single-case-fan design...

Anyways, I also took a ton of pics of the 4805 components, including the entire lens/color wheel unit out of the case. The entire thing is constructed suprisingly well - there were about 30 screws total.

[EDITED AFTER REASSEMBLY]

It's back together and working fine, and the fan is just as loud as it was before, but the fan isn't even running at full speed when the projector is up. I might try to measure the voltage that the fan is getting at various noise levels, see if it ever DOES ramp up to full speed...in any case, this was a fun way to spend an hour and I learned a few things. I didn't attach the pics - I'm too lazy to resize everything so that the forum will take them as uploads. If you really want them PM me and maybe I'll throw them up on my site or something.

W

I turned on my pj and there is no picture not even a start up screen light is solid green any suggestions
Thanks Wayne

Startup brainfart. Happens once in a blue moon. If you're positive that the lamp hasn't struck, turn the unit off, wait a couple of minutes, try firing it up again.

Startup brainfart. Happens once in a blue moon. If you positive that the lamp hasn't struck, turn the unit off, wait a couple of minutes, try firing it up again.\

:D When I read that quickly, I thought you were isulting him, calling him a "startup brainfart".

I thought, "wow, he must be having a hard day, he's usually pretty helpful!"

\

:D When I read that quickly, I thought you were isulting him, calling him a "startup brainfart".

I thought, "wow, he must be having a hard day, he's usually pretty helpful!"

Wes,

You kill me!!! :p ;) :D

Kras,

You've got connections. Could you get one of them new TOSHIBA HD-A1 HD DVD players, hook it up to the 4805 and tell us what it looks like? :D

The WAF is holding me back on the pre-order of one of these bad boys.

I'm gonna go off on a tangent here...

I just pulled apart my 4805 because the fan noise was driving me nuts. I have the entire unit disassembled, and it only took about 15 minutes.

There are two fans, one cooling the lamp, the other cooling the color wheel.


Now that you've done this, are you going to replace the fans ?

If so, I'm sure there are quite a few owners here who are interested in the results.

Now that you've done this, are you going to replace the fans ?

If so, I'm sure there are quite a few owners here who are interested in the results.


This has been dicussed in the past, but if I'm not mistaken no has actually done it. Seems easy enuff as long as you get the right size fans, voltage, cfm's and such, but I don't think that the trouble is worth it. (That's what the remotes volume is for.)

He may be able to find some compatible replacement fans, but the problem is still going to exist, because inmo... it's the pitch of the fan blades that are moving the specified cfm's that are creating the noise (not the motor) that all us 4805 owners are well aware of.

This would be a great experiment for a decommissioned 4805. "Pull out the fans, hook the fans up to their maximum alotted voltages, with and without the fanblades attached." I'd be willing to bet the actual motors themselves are alot quieter than one would expect.

Startup brainfart. Happens once in a blue moon. If you're positive that the lamp hasn't struck, turn the unit off, wait a couple of minutes, try firing it up again.

Thanks for the help. I have tried doing this several times but nothing happens. I had to shut off the unit with the switch on the pj because the system froze while changing user settings none of the buttons on the remote or pj would do anything??? The green light is still on when turned on just no pic

Thanks for the help. I have tried doing this several times but nothing happens. I had to shut off the unit with the switch on the pj because the system froze while changing user settings none of the buttons on the remote or pj would do anything??? The green light is still on when turned on just no pic

Give this a shot. Disconnect all source inputs to the unit as well as the actaul power supply cable itself, and make sure the power switch on the unit is in the OFF position, wait a half hour before going any further.

After that, put the power supply cable back in and try firing it up with the toggle switch. If it does manage to fire up (good news!!!) the only thing you should see is the INFOCUS splash screen.

Let us know what happens from there.

Panaflow makes quiet fans that could easily be swaped out for the one in the 4805.
PC overclockers have been doing that sort of thing for years.

Panaflow makes quiet fans that could easily be swaped out for the one in the 4805.
PC overclockers have been doing that sort of thing for years.
True. Still nobody seems to have done it to their 4805. If they have, they're not AVS Forums posters.

Give this a shot. Disconnect all source inputs to the unit as well as the actaul power supply cable itself, and make sure the power switch on the unit is in the OFF position, wait a half hour before going any further.

After that, put the power supply cable back in and try firing it up with the toggle switch. If it does manage to fire up (good news!!!) the only thing you should see is the INFOCUS splash screen.

Let us know what happens from there.

45 Minutes later turned on and nothing fan comes on, beep, but no light. pj does not respond to remote any other suggestions

45 Minutes later turned on and nothing fan comes on, beep, but no light. pj does not respond to remote any other suggestions

Are you getting any blinking on the 4805 led? Consult the manual as to what the blinking means. If it's just green and no blinking, then I would contact infocus.

Are you getting any blinking on the 4805 led? Consult the manual as to what the blinking means. If it's just green and no blinking, then I would contact infocus.

Solid green

Solid green

It's gonna have to go back for service.

-W

Thank you Dagware for these tips, they will definately be my next steps if what I just discovered hasn't worked! I decided to look elsewhere in the house for the potential problem and there they were: two X10 compatable remote light switch/dimmers. I replaced them with standard light switches and my rolling bars are currently GONE.
Hooray! When you finally solve something like this, it's better than winning a video game!

I've been fooled before since the bars tend to be intermittent. I'll follow up after an evening of viewing to say whether they are really gone :)
I hear you -- A couple of times I thought I had solved my problem only to discover I was wrong.

I'll keep my fingers crossed...

-Dan

He may be able to find some compatible replacement fans, but the problem is still going to exist, because inmo... it's the pitch of the fan blades that are moving the specified cfm's that are creating the noise (not the motor) that all us 4805 owners are well aware of.

trust me, it's the motor, not the blades. how do i know? i also ran the fan at 5V and 7V off the molex - the main source of noise was still there, just slightly lower in volume. slowing the fan down with my finger (on the blade hub) reduced the airflow to practially nothing, but there was still the same audible hum.

i'm not saying the blades don't put out any noise at all, just that the motor is much noisier than the fan blades.

that said, a panaflo high speed with the new blade config they have (see SPCR forums) might do the trick, if it's 25mm thick. the only tricky part would be getting the right plug on the end, as infocus doesn't use a standard fan header plug, it's closer to the battery plug on cordless phones.

once mine is out of warranty, replacing the fan will be the first thing i do. hell, i might even do it before then...

45 Minutes later turned on and nothing fan comes on, beep, but no light. pj does not respond to remote any other suggestions

Sorry to hear it, but it sounds like a call to INFOCUS is in order for an RMA.

It sure is! Well I watched HDTV all night and the bars did not return. ALSO the picture via component video looks so much better now! I've had the projector since they were first released and my jaw literally dropped a few times. I'm very happy now :)

Hooray! When you finally solve something like this, it's better than winning a video game!


I hear you -- A couple of times I thought I had solved my problem only to discover I was wrong.

I'll keep my fingers crossed...

-Dan

trust me, it's the motor, not the blades. how do i know? i also ran the fan at 5V and 7V off the molex - the main source of noise was still there, just slightly lower in volume. slowing the fan down with my finger (on the blade hub) reduced the airflow to practially nothing, but there was still the same audible hum.

i'm not saying the blades don't put out any noise at all, just that the motor is much noisier than the fan blades.

that said, a panaflo high speed with the new blade config they have (see SPCR forums) might do the trick, if it's 25mm thick. the only tricky part would be getting the right plug on the end, as infocus doesn't use a standard fan header plug, it's closer to the battery plug on cordless phones.

once mine is out of warranty, replacing the fan will be the first thing i do. hell, i might even do it before then...

Well then, Good Luck to you! Let us know when and if you do decide to make the coversion & report back. I'm sure every owner here would like to hear what the outcome is.

It sure is! Well I watched HDTV all night and the bars did not return. ALSO the picture via component video looks so much better now! I've had the projector since they were first released and my jaw literally dropped a few times. I'm very happy now :)

Marc,

Congrats to you buddy! Where exactly in Halifax, Canada are you? Might have to come up to do some Caribou hunting!!! ;) :D

Marc,

Congrats to you buddy! Where exactly in Halifax, Canada are you? Might have to come up to do some Caribou hunting!!! ;) :D

Thanks Deerhunter!

I'm right in the city of Halifax itself. Not many caribou around here, plenty of deer and bear though if thats your thing. I do all my hunting with a digital camera though :)

There are only three DVD players that can "1:1 pixel-map" at the moment - the Bravo D1/D2, the Momitsu V880 and the SnaZio. "[/i].

Of these 3, any recommendations? Pros/cons?

Thanks,

TC

I have my 4805 ceiling mounted about 15ft away from a Dalite 106" screen. Because of my proj to screen height, I have a slight keystone issue. I have to set my keystone correction on the 4805 to about 61 to square it up with no light spill on the black screen boarder but i'd rather not use the keystone if I dont have to. Since the Dalite screen boarder has a flat matte black finish, I figured I could velcro 2 inch black velvet to the boarder so i could zoom the picture without seeing the light spill on the boarder. I've been going crazy looking for fabric dense enough to block the overspill at local fabric stores. Why don't they make these screens with boarders that block any light spill? Any suggestions other than having to reposition my proj or screen?