It is a component video switcher. Not a composite.
Only device I have that uses toslink only instead of toslink and Coax digital is my XBOX, so no big deal to me. I just use a toslink nput on my Pio 1014 for my Xbox and change it jst for hat.Otheriwse, just fine for my HD cable and DVD.

Yeah but composite uses same plugs so I just plug component cables in and it works... Other thing I like is it has ethernet switchin for each input.

I was really hoping for optycal switching as between my xboxn, ps2 and htpc I am all out...

Of these 3, any recommendations? Pros/cons?I will address the Bravo units. There are lots of online reviews (http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&q=bravo+d1+dvd++d2+&spell=1) but here is my summary (I am a happy D1 owner). (BTW, these three players all use the same Sigma chipset and ultimately have very similar performance.)

Pros: The D1 and D2 have identical digital (DVI) performance but the D2 has improved analog (component) performance. The units are preprogrammed with an 852x480 pixel map output option. The current firmware on both the D1 and D2 permits defeating the Macrovision copy protection, changing 'regions' as well as selecting 'region-free' and setting custom output resolutions. The units will upscale to 720p and 1080i over both component and DVI but I would not get a Bravo for anything but 1:1 DVI pixel-mapping.

Cons: The D1 left a sour taste with some owners because of slow loading and 'fussy' operation. Some owners have resorted to changing the DVD loader but the actual fault is a bad part in the power supply. This condition can be cured easily with a simply power-supply mod resulting in a reliable, solid performer. The remote control is only adequate - not great. The D2 fixed the issues with the D1 and has a slightly better remote.

At the moment, the Bravos are only available as pre-owned units; the D1 is out of production and the D2 is currently sold out. Check the V. Inc. website (http://www.vinc.com/site/products/product_bravod2.html) for D2 availability.

In the interest of of full disclosure, I have been buying and upgrading D1 players for family, friends and a few AVS people.

The Bravo is an awesome match for the SP4805!! Bob Williams, SP4805 designer, uses the Bravo D1 in his lab as his reference source. Bob says "I have never seen better looking film-based output from a DVD player than I have through the Bravo D1 via DVI."

It is a component video switcher. Not a composite.
Only device I have that uses toslink only instead of toslink and Coax digital is my XBOX, so no big deal to me. I just use a toslink nput on my Pio 1014 for my Xbox and change it jst for hat.Otheriwse, just fine for my HD cable and DVD.

Yeah but composite uses same plugs so I just plug component cables in and it works... Other thing I like is it has ethernet switchin for each input.

I was really hoping for optycal switching as between my xboxn, ps2 and htpc I am all out...

I will address the Bravo units. There are lots of online reviews (http://www.google.com/search?q=bravo+d1+dvd&start=0&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official) but here is my summary (I am a happy D1 owner). (BTW, these three players all use the same Sigma chipset and ultimately have very similar performance.)

Pros: The D1 and D2 have identical digital (DVI) performance but the D2 has improved analog (component) performance. The units are preprogrammed with an 852x480 pixel map output option. The current firmware on both the D1 and D2 permits defeating the Macrovision copy protection, changing 'regions' as well as selecting 'region-free' and setting custom output resolutions. The units will upscale to 720p and 1080i over both component and DVI but I would not get a Bravo for anyyhing but 1:1 DVI pixel-mapping.

Cons: The D1 left a sour taste with some owners because of slow loading and 'fussy' operation. Some owners have resorted to changing the DVD loader but the actual fault is a bad part in the power supply. This condition can be cured easily with a simply power-supply mod resulting is a reliable, solid performer. The remote control is only adequate - not great. The D2 fixed the issues with the D1 and has a slightly better remote.

At the moment, the Bravos are only available as pre-owned units; the D1 is out of production and the D2 is currently sold out. Check the V. Inc. website (http://www.vizio.com) for D2 availability.

For the purpose of full disclosure, I have been upgrading D1 players for family, friends and a few AVS people. The Bravo is an awesome match for the SP4805!!

Japhule,

That should be in the FAQ- very detailed information, but concise, about one of the few non-HTPC pixel mapping options. This post will get buried in less than a week, and the search function is still going to be problematic with bravo mentioned so frequently. . .

Thanks, Cavu

I have my 4805 ceiling mounted about 15ft away from a Dalite 106" screen. Because of my proj to screen height, I have a slight keystone issue. I have to set my keystone correction on the 4805 to about 61 to square it up with no light spill on the black screen boarder but i'd rather not use the keystone if I dont have to. Since the Dalite screen boarder has a flat matte black finish, I figured I could velcro 2 inch black velvet to the boarder so i could zoom the picture without seeing the light spill on the boarder. I've been going crazy looking for fabric dense enough to block the overspill at local fabric stores. Why don't they make these screens with boarders that block any light spill? Any suggestions other than having to reposition my proj or screen?

If you tilt the top of the screen closer to the PJ than the bottom, you might be able to fix the keystoning "manually" - I did with perfect results. I had to bring the top out about 1" for my height / distance.

Thanks, CavuYou are welcome. BTW, I corrected some spelling and added a reference at the bottom from Bob Wiliams.

Rolling bars - questions.

I've read and re-read this thread, and specifically the rolling bars issue.
My issue may be (it may not be) a little more unique, because of my set-up.
My room is a dual purpose room, so some of the set-up had to get a little creative to make it all work.

Here's the problem.
I get the rolling bars on everything - HDTV, TV, DVD, etc.
There is typically one larger bright bar, and a few smaller dark bars.

I have the cable source in the front of the room, and a monster center for power.
The cable is run directly to the HDCable Box.
The DVD player/Receiver/Component switcher/HDCable box are all at the front of the room and plugged into the monster multi-outlet power center.

The 4805 is set-up in the back of the room.
I am using a 50 foot component cord (via monoprice) to run the signal to the back of the room. I have the cord running the perimeter of the wall along the ground/wall.
The PJ is set-up on a chest in the back, and everything has worked great since day 1 except for the rolling bars.
The PJ is plugged in an extension cord (heavy duty outdoor), which is then plugged into a multi-outlet, which is then plugged into the wall.
Unfortunately the nearest outlet is 16 feet away - the room is a closed in garage, so I have to make due at this point in time.

That about sums up the set-up, and I can post more specs if needed.


Hopefully someone will see an easy solution or have a trouble shooting idea...I am all ears!!! :D

Thanks for all of your help.

Rolling bars - questions.

I've read and re-read this thread, and specifically the rolling bars issue.
My issue may be (it may not be) a little more unique, because of my set-up.
My room is a dual purpose room, so some of the set-up had to get a little creative to make it all work.

Here's the problem.
I get the rolling bars on everything - HDTV, TV, DVD, etc.
There is typically one larger bright bar, and a few smaller dark bars.

I have the cable source in the front of the room, and a monster center for power.
The cable is run directly to the HDCable Box.
The DVD player/Receiver/Component switcher/HDCable box are all at the front of the room and plugged into the monster multi-outlet power center.

The 4805 is set-up in the back of the room.
I am using a 50 foot component cord (via monoprice) to run the signal to the back of the room. I have the cord running the perimeter of the wall along the ground/wall.
The PJ is set-up on a chest in the back, and everything has worked great since day 1 except for the rolling bars.
The PJ is plugged in an extension cord (heavy duty outdoor), which is then plugged into a multi-outlet, which is then plugged into the wall.
Unfortunately the nearest outlet is 16 feet away - the room is a closed in garage, so I have to make due at this point in time.

That about sums up the set-up, and I can post more specs if needed.


Hopefully someone will see an easy solution or have a trouble shooting idea...I am all ears!!! :D

Thanks for all of your help.

I had pretty much the same bars, turns out it was a combo of a ground loop through the cable tv and a bad calbe.

Got a new cable tv cable and run it through a monster power center I found in the closed (i never buy monster but at the time I had employee discount from working at best buy) and it seems to work. Does your monster strip have input and output for cable tv? If so use that.

Try watching some source with rolling bars and unplug the cable tv cable from the wall to see if it clears them up.

If it does one thing you might try is run a wire (speaker wire or other small guage wire) from the shielding of the cable tv (maybe the metal part that you screw to screw it in) to a ground prong on a 3 prong plug (anything that is plugged in with 3 prongs should do). Carefully do that so you don't short any of the other prongs, then plug it back in.

That might do it withouth having to buy a strip that has the cable tv grounding built in.

Yeah but composite uses same plugs so I just plug component cables in and it works... Other thing I like is it has ethernet switchin for each input.

I was really hoping for optycal switching as between my xboxn, ps2 and htpc I am all out...


Some composdite switchers don't have the proper bandwidth to pass HD.

Some composdite switchers don't have the proper bandwidth to pass HD.


Yes but since the one I am dealing with is a passive/mechanical switcher I was under the impression there was no worry about bandwidth?

I guess since the RS one is remote controlled it falls into the bandwidth + category.

I was not trying to knock the RS one so much as note that I am sad it is indeed coax rather than optical switching.

How does the Infocus 4805 compare to the Panasonic AE900 in terms of brightness and standard-definition quality?

I like what I've read about both projectors and as much as I would like to get the 900, I would probably be better off with a brighter projector to combat light leaking in from the other room, and chances are I'll just end up spending most of my time watching the standard definition cable channels anyway. Still, it would be nice to have that extra resolution for the times when I do watch the HD channels.

So, for those that know, how does the 900 compare to the 4805 in terms of brightness and picture quality of standard-definition video (ie, svideo digital cable or component DVD).

Please try that. Thats what I did, in combo with the 72hz, and it looked just great, super sharp even without ffdshow in the mix...BUT...BUTTTTTTT...BUTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT....I got a several pixel wide strip o crap down the right side in TT.


That's exactly where I'm at right now. The picture looks absolutely stunning running 854x480 in both the nvidia drivers and TT at 72hz with ffdshow. But there are these insane flashing lights in a vertical line down the right! I have been messing with this for a couple of weeks now!

So it's back to 848x480 at 60hz now? :(

Brian what does your AR.dat file look like now? I had messed around with mine to get it to recognize 854x480 and not sure if I remember how to get it back! :)

Yeah but composite uses same plugs so I just plug component cables in and it works... Other thing I like is it has ethernet switchin for each input.

I was really hoping for optycal switching as between my xboxn, ps2 and htpc I am all out...
Does the radio shack near you have the manual switcher for optical ? It is a inexpensive clearance item that takes 4 toslink to 1 out and not shown on their site.
Not the best advice, but I have used 1 into a powered component/optical switch and got dts/DD51 without dropouts in audio.

http://www.radioshack.com/graphics/uc/rsk/Support/ProductManuals/1501586_PM_EN.pdf

The PJ is plugged in an extension cord (heavy duty outdoor), which is then plugged into a multi-outlet, which is then plugged into the wall.
Unfortunately the nearest outlet is 16 feet away - the room is a closed in garage, so I have to make due at this point in time.
The first thing I'd try to do, just for a test, is to get an extension chord long enough and plug the PJ into the same power strip everything else is plugged in to. The goal is to get *everything* that is wired together to use the same power strip. See if this eliminates the bars.

If it does eliminate the problem, then you've got a couple of choices. Run a long extension chord from the PJ to where the power strip is. That's what I did. It runs right along with my 35 foot component cables, and it doesn't seem to cause any problems (my component cables are very well insulated). Or you could use a 3-to-2-prong power adapter for the PJ. The problem with this is that your PJ won't be grounded. I don't know how much of a potential problem this really is. Some people claim it's the end of the world, others claim it will probably be safe. I'm not an electrician so I can't really comment. Personally, I'd go for the long extension chord.

If plugging the PJ's power into the same power strip doesn't solve the problem, try disconnecting the cable TV cable from the box and see if that makes any difference. If it does make a difference, try running the cable TV cable through the power strip also (assuming it has that feature). I had to do this.

By the way, try this when you have the PJ plugged into the power strip mentioned above, just in case you have two things causing the ground loop. I had this problem and that's why it was so hard for me to track down. Eliminating one of the problems wasn't good enough.

That's exactly where I'm at right now. The picture looks absolutely stunning running 854x480 in both the nvidia drivers and TT at 72hz with ffdshow. But there are these insane flashing lights in a vertical line down the right! I have been messing with this for a couple of weeks now!

So it's back to 848x480 at 60hz now? :(

Brian what does your AR.dat file look like now? I had messed around with mine to get it to recognize 854x480 and not sure if I remember how to get it back! :)

I got the same strip o' crap running down the right side of TT when I set the Nvidia driver to 854; and I could not get TT to run @ 72Hz. I'm going to try powerstrip tonight.

My AR.dat file has everything @ 840 0 0 480. To go back, it is 848 0 1 478. ;)

How does an ND2 effect the black bars of 2.35 and such movies?

I find it distracting to have those bars as they appear quite grey, does the ND2 cut those down noticeably or are they still relatively grey enough to stand out?

Does the radio shack near you have the manual switcher for optical ? It is a inexpensive clearance item that takes 4 toslink to 1 out and not shown on their site.
Not the best advice, but I have used 1 into a powered component/optical switch and got dts/DD51 without dropouts in audio.

http://www.radioshack.com/graphics/uc/rsk/Support/ProductManuals/1501586_PM_EN.pdf

They are out... besidese with a mechanical switch already I am really not hot on a second switch...

I guess my PS2 is relegated to dolby surround, which isn't so bad as most ps2 games don't have dts in game anyway.

Thanks for the thought though!

Guys & gals - Thanks to the info on AVS, I own both a 4800 and a 4805. I enjoyed the 4800 for about 2 years, and recently acquired a used 4805 from a friend at a great price...

Haven't found an answer to the following question during my searches of this thread - Question = why did my PQ seem pretty much identical beween 720p and 1080i w/ the 4800, whereas with the 4805, 720p is definitely better?

Setup:

Zenith DVB318, component to 4805, ceiling-mounted 4805 set for 16 x 9, no keystone correction, 14 ft viewing distance, 6 ft wide InFocus pull-down 16 x 9 screen.

Thank you for any and all input !

- Daniel

I have a question regarding my lamp. I am at 2982 hours and had a warning to replace the lamp. I don't have a spare yet so in the meantime, if I reset the lamp counter will that hurt anything? Does anyone have a good suggestion where to buy a replacement lamp?

I thought these bulbs were rated for 4000 hours so I thought I had time. Guess I was confused with my X1. Damn, I really didn't want to spend the money right now.

I never thought that I'd need another lamp before I upgraded again. I've only had this thing 11 months! Maybe I should take everyone's advice a get out more. :D

I have a question regarding my lamp. I am at 2982 hours and had a warning to replace the lamp. I don't have a spare yet so in the meantime, if I reset the lamp counter will that hurt anything? Does anyone have a good suggestion where to buy a replacement lamp?

I thought these bulbs were rated for 4000 hours so I thought I had time. Guess I was confused with my X1. Damn, I really didn't want to spend the money right now.

I never thought that I'd need another lamp before I upgraded again. I've only had this thing 11 months! Maybe I should take everyone's advice a get out more. :D

By all means reset the lamp counter - and then report to us how the bulb brightness is holding up after almost 3000 hours. None of us ever got that far, yet.

IMHO you outta run that bulb till it croaks, just to provide us all with a knowledge base of your opinions of it in later life.

-W

I have a question for those who say they have achieved 1:1 pixel mapping. How are you verifying that it is 1:1? I have a DVDO iScan HD+ and when viewing the checkerboard test pattern it looks good as long as I don't induce any keystone, that messes everything up (All kinds of strange patterns in the test screen). I look at the 4805 info and it is 854 X 480, I look at the HD+ info and that is 854 X 480. Am I 1:1 mapped?

My 4805 has about 525 hrs on it and all of a sudden anything in 720P looks, well blurred is the best way I can describe it! I have tried multiple sources with the same result, DVD OTA HD and Cable HD set to 720p Including the menus all appear now out of focus!

Has anyone else had this problem?

Thanks

How does an ND2 effect the black bars of 2.35 and such movies?

I find it distracting to have those bars as they appear quite grey, does the ND2 cut those down noticeably or are they still relatively grey enough to stand out?

Most deffinetly!! Using an ND2 filter will cut that "greyness" down quite a bit to where you can get it to almost disappear. You will have to recalibrate after adding the filter.

After adding the filter to my 4805, my black levels were much better.

A little taste!
4805 projecting against a BOC screen (top) and Do-Able Board (Bottom)
http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/9206/wall3lr.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Sean

Willy, its more of a art than a science. DaGampPimp used to describe it as "not seeing shadowing" on the pixels and Kras talks about not seeing the scan lines. It takes a test pattern, and over the years I have been able to indentifiy the "shadowy" look you get when not mapped. The horizontal lines will look super sharp and clear.

There is a pattern on the web you can use for the desktop, but you'll need your Avia (Pro preferred I believe but I'm sure you can find something on the regular that will show if your close) I use DVE chapter 13, title 2-4 I think. Once you see it NOT mapped on a test pattern, it will make much more sense as you can see the wavy or fuzzy scan lines and the the non-crisp edges of the pixels making grey instead of pure black or white.

Boy, I'm confused now . Bet that helped not one bit....more coffee...... :eek:

Rolling bars - questions.I had a similar problem and found an easy fix. I simply switch to "source 4" with 4805's remote, and back to "source 3" and let the 4805 re-setup image and the rolling bars disappear.

My problem may be different from yours, because I can fix the problem 100% of the time, simply by switching sources back-and-forth and letting the 4805 "setting up the image" to re-appear and re-calibrate.

Also, my "rolling bars" don't appear all the time. I think sometimes if I let my 4805 warm up for a few minutes before turning on the input source, the problem is not there.

My 4805 has about 525 hrs on it and all of a sudden anything in 720P looks, well blurred is the best way I can describe it! I have tried multiple sources with the same result, DVD OTA HD and Cable HD set to 720p Including the menus all appear now out of focus!

Has anyone else had this problem?

Thanks

Have you tried focusing your 4805?

Willy, its more of a art than a science. DaGampPimp used to describe it as "not seeing shadowing" on the pixels and Kras talks about not seeing the scan lines. It takes a test pattern, and over the years I have been able to indentifiy the "shadowy" look you get when not mapped. The horizontal lines will look super sharp and clear.

There is a pattern on the web you can use for the desktop, but you'll need your Avia (Pro preferred I believe but I'm sure you can find something on the regular that will show if your close) I use DVE chapter 13, title 2-4 I think. Once you see it NOT mapped on a test pattern, it will make much more sense as you can see the wavy or fuzzy scan lines and the the non-crisp edges of the pixels making grey instead of pure black or white.

Boy, I'm confused now . Bet that helped not one bit....more coffee...... :eek:

Thanks,
I'll have to play with it some to see if I can see a difference say at 720 X 480 or will the 4805 do the scaling back to 854 X 480? I'm running DVI to M1.

Have you tried focusing your 4805?

Yes it is focused properly, its only when I send anything to it in 720P the fuzzy image occurs.

Yes it is focused properly, its only when I send anything to it in 720P the fuzzy image occurs.

Is the 4805's menu also fuzzy in 720p or only your source? I imagine this may be an issue with the source. Is it noticeably fuzzier or just slightly?

I have a question for those who say they have achieved 1:1 pixel mapping. How are you verifying that it is 1:1? I have a DVDO iScan HD+ and when viewing the checkerboard test pattern it looks good as long as I don't induce any keystone, that messes everything up (All kinds of strange patterns in the test screen). I look at the 4805 info and it is 854 X 480, I look at the HD+ info and that is 854 X 480. Am I 1:1 mapped?Not a problem when using an HTPC. You immediately notice how much sharper the Windows desktop and characters are. No strangely shaded characters on menus. Periods take up only one "dot" and letters are groups of distinct dots with no shadowing or differences in darkness across them.

But when playing a movie it's much harder to notice a difference between 1:1 pixel-mapped and an analog signal. I'm not sure it looks all that much better being pixel mapped than it did with a 1440x960 VGA image. The Avia test patterns really don't look much different. There is perhaps a bit more detail with very fine lines in the resolution test patterns with pixel mapping.

But when playing a movie it's much harder to notice a difference between 1:1 pixel-mapped and an analog signal. I'm not sure it looks all that much better being pixel mapped than it did with a 1440x960 VGA image. The Avia test patterns really don't look much different. There is perhaps a bit more detail with very fine lines in the resolution test patterns with pixel mapping.

The biggest reason for this is that DVDs don't really have images that look anything like a Windows desktop. They're moving pictures, (with the exception of test disks, usually), and that alone usually gives enough blur not to make a difference. Once you factor in compression, and the fact that a DVD picture is more like a JPG than a GIF, and "pixel-perfect" doesn't have as much visible benefit.

Don't forget that DVDs don't have square pixels, so no matter what, you have to do some interpolation along the horizontal. They are actually 720x480 in resolution.

That doesn't mean you shouldn't try and feed the best possible image to your projector. That's why an HTPC or similar DVD player with 1:1 mapping & DVI connection is so great. A pure digital path, and all the scaling is done in one controlled place.

Most deffinetly!! Using an ND2 filter will cut that "greyness" down quite a bit to where you can get it to almost disappear. You will have to recalibrate after adding the filter.

After adding the filter to my 4805, my black levels were much better.

A little taste!
4805 projecting against a BOC screen (top) and Do-Able Board (Bottom)
http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/9206/wall3lr.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Sean

Ordered one... Friggin $35... bah!

Anyhow when you say recalibrate was it just a matter of setting brightness higher or something? Because I would think with a neutral density filter all setting would remain the same just darker.

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I would think with a neutral density filter all setting would remain the same just darker.You are correct. An ND2 filter does not effect the calibration.

I'm considering moving to a consant height setup, which leads me towards 1:1 pixel mapping for best possible picture, which leads me to the Momitsu or Bravo dvd players, which leads to some questions:

I've read that the de-interlacing on these players is inferior to the 4805's Faroudja. Is the tradeoff in de-interlacing worth the better pic provided by 1:1 pixel mapping?

Also, I know the 4805 won't accept 480i over DVI. Is this something that could be addressed in the firmware? If so, is there any realistic chance Infocus would do so?

Thanks!

TC

I have a question for those who say they have achieved 1:1 pixel mapping. How are you verifying that it is 1:1? I have a DVDO iScan HD+ and when viewing the checkerboard test pattern it looks good as long as I don't induce any keystone, that messes everything up (All kinds of strange patterns in the test screen). I look at the 4805 info and it is 854 X 480, I look at the HD+ info and that is 854 X 480. Am I 1:1 mapped?

From what I understand, you have your dvd player connected via analog to your iScan HD+ which is connected digitally to the 4805 at 854x480. I think it's safe to assume that you are 1:1 pixel mapped from your iScan to the 4805, but you are not achieving true 1:1 from the dvd player to the iScan which you will need a digital connection via dvi/hdmi. If you have your dvd player connected to the iscan digitally at 480i via dvi/hdmi or via an SDI mod then you will have a true 1:1 pixel mapped connection from dvd player to iscan to 4805.

By all means reset the lamp counter - and then report to us how the bulb brightness is holding up after almost 3000 hours. None of us ever got that far, yet.

IMHO you outta run that bulb till it croaks, just to provide us all with a knowledge base of your opinions of it in later life.

-W

So far the bulb brightness doesn't seem to have gone down a noticeable degree. Everything is still bright and colorful to me.

Question...What ceiling mount is everyone using?

I went to walmart to look for the Zeiss cleaning kit talked about here for my 4805 and there camera section had no cleaning kits. The jewlerty section (for glasses) has a foil package with 20 moistened cleaners in it. Are these ok to clean the lense with?

It does say for glasses and cameras on it...

I just don't want to damage my lense. Is there a way to test on a mirror or something to see how it holds up? Thanks!

Question...What ceiling mount is everyone using?

If you see those ceiling mounts on ebay that show the pic of the 4805 rotating and swinging back and forth, they are made from cheapo speaker wall mounts from walmart. $8 for 2.

Run by walmart and check the speaker section, pick those up, some screws and some metal plating to make your own base, should be around $15 for your own custom ceiling mount.

If you see those ceiling mounts on ebay that show the pic of the 4805 rotating and swinging back and forth, they are made from cheapo speaker wall mounts from walmart. $8 for 2.

Run by walmart and check the speaker section, pick those up, some screws and some metal plating to make your own base, should be around $15 for your own custom ceiling mount.

That's exactly what I did. A little difficult to adjust, but how often do you need to adust PJ?
FYI - screws for PJ are 4 mm. For screw length, be aware that screws will bottom out in PJ at about 3/16" . Do not overtighten.

TC

I was wondering what a\v receivers the 4805 owners were using? I'm assuming since it is a budget projector you are not using $5000 receivers. I know this might be considered off topic but I only want 4805 owners input. Should I get one with video upconversion? I want one that best compliments the projector. I don't want a piece of crap, but would like to stay around 500 or so. Thanks for any info.

Question...What ceiling mount is everyone using?I am very happy with one made by "Mighty Mounts" and sold on eBay by a vendor called kokkoman. AVS doesn't allow eBay links but check eBay item # 5852554013 to see one.

I went to walmart to look for the Zeiss cleaning kit talked about here for my 4805 and there camera section had no cleaning kits. The jewlerty section (for glasses) has a foil package with 20 moistened cleaners in it. Are these ok to clean the lense with?

It does say for glasses and cameras on it...

I just don't want to damage my lense. Is there a way to test on a mirror or something to see how it holds up? Thanks!

I have not had a problem with the foil pak wipes they do a good job and leave no residue. You really should not have to clean it all that often if you make sure the lens cap is always on when not in use. I am just careful and use a very light touch.

From what I understand, you have your dvd player connected via analog to your iScan HD+ which is connected digitally to the 4805 at 854x480. I think it's safe to assume that you are 1:1 pixel mapped from your iScan to the 4805, but you are not achieving true 1:1 from the dvd player to the iScan which you will need a digital connection via dvi/hdmi. If you have your dvd player connected to the iscan digitally at 480i via dvi/hdmi or via an SDI mod then you will have a true 1:1 pixel mapped connection from dvd player to iscan to 4805.


Using overscan test patterns will tell you if you have achieved this out of your DVD player - as JaPhule noted your ISCAN test patterns show its output is pixel mapped. The only mapping you can do in an analog player is scan line mapping. Generally most DVD players suffer by overscanning the picture. For horizontal pixels - they no longer exist in the analog signal. Rather you have an analog signal with a bandwidth - and that depends on your player. The resolution wedges will show you the bandwidth you achieve. It is impossible to show the full scan line on analog NTSC - this is illegal - but again the overscan patterns will show you how much you are losing. I suspect all this stuff is contained in Secrets DVD benchmarks.

Bottom line - an analog input thru a digital scaler - can never be pixel mapped.

I was wondering what a\v receivers the 4805 owners were using? I'm assuming since it is a budget projector you are not using $5000 receivers. I know this might be considered off topic but I only want 4805 owners input. Should I get one with video upconversion? I want one that best compliments the projector. I don't want a piece of crap, but would like to stay around 500 or so. Thanks for any info.

Yamaha makes some nice units starting at $400 with some nice features such as HDMI. As far as up scaling the image I send the 4805 a 480i signal and let it do the work through the on board processor (Only works on component input). It looks fantastic and I am using a mid priced Sony DVD Player I think my picture looks as good or better than many of the screen shots I have seen here. If you want to upgrade to a good player I wouuld suggest the OPPO or MOMITZU player discussed here. Both can be had for around $200.

Happy Viewing

Believe it or not, I have read both threads since joining this forum since last January. My 4805 went on the ceiling sometime after that and I am very happy with the 105" wide picture! Even the wife is thrilled with the setup. I have light controlled basement and the picture is projected on the white wall.

What are the tricks involved in getting the picture perfectly squared on the wall? I have set it up to the best of my ability and it looks good enough but I know it can be done better. I have used level to make sure the picture is horizontal. The vertical edges look vertical but if I put a level, I can see that they are little off. Given the distance and the offset, I can understand there will be little of keystoning with my setup and I can live with that.

What I want to make sure is that the picture is dead straight i.e. the projector beam is hitting the wall at perfect 90 degrees. Are there any tools that would make this alignment easy? Given the size of the image, measuring various distances on the wall becomes unwieldy. With 105" wide, I am at the maximum zoom. If I zoom out to minimum, the picture would be still large to align using tape measure. But that might be one way.

Somebody I am going to put black borders on the wall to frame the picture but before I do that I want to be sure that the picture is aligned correctly on the wall.

May be the right advice is "Leave the alignment alone if it looks straight enough to naked eye"!

Thanks,
- Vikas

Well I have some spare time and looking to play a little with my screen. At the moment I am simply using a black out cloth and have been pretty happy. However, I am curious if projecting their 4805 on a painted screen, such as Behr Silver Screen etc.

Cheers!

What I want to make sure is that the picture is dead straight i.e. the projector beam is hitting the wall at perfect 90 degrees. Are there any tools that would make this alignment easy?Infocus has some good Installation Guides (http://www.infocus.com/service/howto/install.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&) on their web site.

One simple check is to run a string from the top two corners of your screen to the centre of the projector lens - they should be the same length. Do the same from the bottom two corners; those two should also be the same length.

Also measure the two diagonals of the screen - they should be the same. Use a string if your tape measure isn't long enough. Just don't stretch the string! ;)


PS. Philosophical question: Is one's tape measure ever long enough??

Well I have some spare time and looking to play a little with my screen. At the moment I am simply using a black out cloth and have been pretty happy. However, I am curious if projecting their 4805 on a painted screen, such as Behr Silver Screen etc.

Cheers!
I'm using the original Mississippi Mud formula on a piece of foam insulation board.
Looks Great! I ordered damples from Da_Lite, and none looked any better than the MMud when held up to my screen.

TC

Using overscan test patterns will tell you if you have achieved this out of your DVD player - as JaPhule noted your ISCAN test patterns show its output is pixel mapped. The only mapping you can do in an analog player is scan line mapping. Generally most DVD players suffer by overscanning the picture. For horizontal pixels - they no longer exist in the analog signal. Rather you have an analog signal with a bandwidth - and that depends on your player. The resolution wedges will show you the bandwidth you achieve. It is impossible to show the full scan line on analog NTSC - this is illegal - but again the overscan patterns will show you how much you are losing. I suspect all this stuff is contained in Secrets DVD benchmarks.

Bottom line - an analog input thru a digital scaler - can never be pixel mapped.


Thanks JaPule & Kras,

I had got the iScan and a DVI/M1 cable at the same time. After hooking the iScan up and doing a config on it the picture looked so much better than using my component cables I couldn't tell if it was pixel mapped. I didn't get the iScan to improve the image, I got it for aspect ratio control. I have too many letterbox 2.35 DVD's and 2.20 DVD's, the image quality improvement was just a bonus. I'll look into this more when I upgrade the PJ and goto HD-DVD.

After a month w/ my 4805 on boxes behind my couch & head level PJing on Blackout cloth... I am now going to finalize my setup. I have a Cedar ceiling that I don't want to drill holes in, so my plan is to put up a shelf on the back wall. I was going to put it as high to the ceiling as possible and mount the 4805 to the bottom of the shelf. (I saw a picture here at AVS that someone posted doing just that.) But I'm wondering...

1. Has anyone just set the 4805 upside down on its top? Or see a reason not to do this? I can put the shelf about 4" from the ceiling so the 4805 will be as high as possible. Once in place I can put brackets on the sides so it won't move L/R. Would attaching little rubber feet to the top, to rest on, be needed? I wouldn't want to do that it if not needed.


Thanks,
RD

Would attaching little rubber feet to the top, to rest on, be needed? Yes. Otherwise, it will be sitting on the pushbuttons ... and it is not flat.

Radio Shack has some small "stick-on" rubber feet for about a buck. They can be peeled off anytime.

If you see those ceiling mounts on ebay that show the pic of the 4805 rotating and swinging back and forth, they are made from cheapo speaker wall mounts from walmart. $8 for 2.

Run by walmart and check the speaker section, pick those up, some screws and some metal plating to make your own base, should be around $15 for your own custom ceiling mount.I actually have that mount from ebay...it is to unstable, and too hard to adjust, my projector needs to mount 4.5" from the ceiling...We sit pretty much under the our projector. :)

One simple check is to run a string from the top two corners of your screen to the centre of the projector lens - they should be the same length. Do the same from the bottom two corners; those two should also be the same length.

That's actually what I did and it works perfect. ;) I taped 2 strings to the sides of my screen then I marked each string at 14' and when they each met with the lens I marked my ceiling and that is were it was installed. Perfecto!

1. Has anyone just set the 4805 upside down on its top? Or see a reason not to do this? I can put the shelf about 4" from the ceiling so the 4805 will be as high as possible. Once in place I can put brackets on the sides so it won't move L/R. Would attaching little rubber feet to the top, to rest on, be needed? I wouldn't want to do that it if not needed.

RD

I have mine upside down on a shelf and it works well. I install three feet on the top (now bottom). One in front and two on the back. These are about 1/2 inch tall. I just used small packs of post-it notes under the feet to adjust to the screen. You can't even see the post-it notes from the floor. My shelf goes through the wall like a movie theater (but no glass). With the front and back being open, it gives it a lot of room for air. Photos in my member area.

So does a 4805 with a bravo D1 pixel mapped REALLY look that much beter then a standard DVD player running 480i into the 4805 and letting it upscale to 480p?
REALLy that much better?

Struggling to decide to spend the $$$ on a Bravo when I have 2 perfectly good component based DVD players. (Sony ns775 being the one that is in use).

I have not had a problem with the foil pak wipes they do a good job and leave no residue. You really should not have to clean it all that often if you make sure the lens cap is always on when not in use. I am just careful and use a very light touch.

Thanks, are you using the same ones from walmart?

I don't usually put my lense cap on... maybe I should start making it a habbit. Hopefully my ND2 filter will help the dust on lense problem.

I'm using the original Mississippi Mud formula on a piece of foam insulation board.
Looks Great! I ordered damples from Da_Lite, and none looked any better than the MMud when held up to my screen.

TC

I did the same. Not saying the samples looked bad I just could not get a good feel for the color with such a small sample.

Do you find your colors get somewhat "dull" with this formula? As well would you mind PMing the mixtures for the MM?

So does a 4805 with a bravo D1 pixel mapped REALLY look that much beter then a standard DVD player running 480i into the 4805?Yes, if you watch movies!! Bob Williams, the Infocus engineer who designed the SP4805, says,"I can see no ringing in the Bravo D1 output. On the other hand, the Bravo deinterlacing for video based content is not the best in the world, and the low angle interpolation especially is rather poor, causing stairstepping on near horizontal lines. But, as I have said before, I have never seen better looking film-based output from a DVD player than I have through the Bravo D1 via DVI."

So far movies it is good, but say for CSI DVD's (video based) it is not as good?

Cavu & Scottwood2, Thanks! That's what I'll do.
Now to decide on my screen. I've been reading (search button) and need to do more when time allows.

My plan was to just do a DIY w/ Blackout cloth and make a frame to stretch it on. (it's just tacked on the wall right now)(& still looks good :D )

But now I'm thinking of getting a Dalite 83404 (45"x 80") pull down. & I've been reading lately about Silver screens. So if I can find a Paint Mix that simulates that, I might try & paint the DIY Blackout cloth screen. ??? (I see there is a Behr Silver screen paint, probably what I mean)

So far I'm thinking...
1. Blackout cloth stretched around a DIY Frame.

2. Same as #1 but painted Silver.

3. Buy a Drop down Screen (if I can stay under $150 or so). Such as the Dalite.

Any Suggestions would be great.
Thanks,
RD

Cavu & Scottwood2, Thanks! That's what I'll do.
Now to decide on my screen. I've been reading (search button) and need to do more when time allows.

My plan was to just do a DIY w/ Blackout cloth and make a frame to stretch it on. (it's just tacked on the wall right now)(& still looks good :D )

But now I'm thinking of getting a Dalite 83404 (45"x 80") pull down. & I've been reading lately about Silver screens. So if I can find a Paint Mix that simulates that, I might try & paint the DIY Blackout cloth screen. ???

So far I'm thinking...
1. Blackout cloth stretched around a DIY Frame.

2. Same as #1 but painted Silver.

3. Buy a Drop down Screen (if I can stay under $150 or so). Such as the Dalite.

Any Suggestions would be great.
Thanks,
Blake

If you go for a Da-lite pulldown, especially at 92" diag, then get the HCMW. It is a grey screen with a gain of 1.1, which will put you in the neighborhood of 26 ft/L (twice movie standard brightness). I own this and it is an excellent screen.

I have been thinking for a while about doing what Deerhunter did - which was hide a 2.35 screen under his pulldown. But WAF prevents another screen purchase. So I was going to do BOC stretched around a frame. AND I was thinking of painting it with Silverscreen or MM.

OR you could purchase the Da-Lite HCCV (same as HCMW or only fixed, not pulldown) right here at AVS Forum - apparently, as Kras has mentioned, it is lunch $$ per square foot. Just take the material and stretch it over a DIY frame. I bet it gets you under that $150 budget. I believe you contact Jason@avs.

Has anybody use a perfectmount ceiling mount...I think it is the 2000 model.

I am pretty happy with my $120 shipped Optoma Grey wolf screen.
Far better image then I had on a Da-Lite Picture King (tripod) Video Spectra screen.

Has anybody use a perfectmount ceiling mount...I think it is the 2000 model.Check out this thread. (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5955901#post5955901) I am using the Perfectmount with my 4805.

I was wondering what a\v receivers the 4805 owners were using? I'm assuming since it is a budget projector you are not using $5000 receivers. I know this might be considered off topic but I only want 4805 owners input. Should I get one with video upconversion? I want one that best compliments the projector. I don't want a piece of crap, but would like to stay around 500 or so. Thanks for any info.

Yamaha HTR 5990 here. I have not had a receiver since the early 1980's, I have seperates but I needed something for my HT room that would give me one remote and plenty of flexability. It does everything I could ask for and sounds great to boot, especially in a HT environment. This is what i have connected to it so far.

1. Incous SP4805 using an DVI-D to HDMI (5990) (only connection so far)
2. Dish 811 DVI-D to HDMI (5990) and Optical for Audio
3. Toshiba SD850 DVD HDMI to HDMI
4. Pioneer Laser Disk S-Video
5. No name DVD component and Optical for Audio
6. Teac Dual Cassette
7. Sharp VCR

Sound is incredible using energy take 5.1 speakers with 12" 150W powered sub. Phantom of the opera was on HBO HD the other day and the video and especially the audio was outstanding. It auto recognzies the source Audio, full Analog Video Up-Conversion including onto HDMI , hell it just does everything and I just touch a source button to jump from hdtv, DVD, VCR, another DVD, etc. It is loaded with inputs and outputs, has a great DSP coupled with plenty of power. Check Ebay for current pricing.

you've got there, it really is nice. I thought about adding another screen for a different aspect ratio. I just might do that, but I have a 59"H X 109" window behind my 92" screen. I am thinking of going to a 113" screen that would hide the window and I have an idea of how to mount another screen. I will post some pictures as soon as I get my camera working without the flash.

Might have to get the Sony digital video cam out and do some snap shots, heck should be fun since I never used that still pic option with that camera.

Check out this thread. (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5955901#post5955901) I am using the Perfectmount with my 4805.It looks like it would be pretty easy to adjust the position of the projector...once you tighten down is it solid...and the projector won't move unless you untighten the bolts. I need something that does not move when my kids turn off the 4805. Also do you know what the height is from the ceiling mount to the top of the projector...I need something around 4-5 inches clearance max. Sorry for all the questions...I need to retire my POS mount I bought on Ebay. Thanks :)

So far movies it is good, but say for CSI DVD's (video based) it is not as good?Perhaps not "not as good" but "not as great". ;)

I specifically brought that issue to your attention in response to your question about the internal Bravo deinterlacer. But virtually all my DVD watching is movies which are spectacular.

I do have a few video collections on DVD ("My So-called Life", "Curb Your Enthusiasm", etc.) but I cannot say that I have ever noticed any issue with video-based DVDs. I certainly don't think that video-based performance is any worse than any non Faroudja-equipped DVD player. I watch CSI, etc. from a 1080i HDTV source and honestly cannot comment on how that compares to a CSI DVD.

I got my Bravo specifically for watching movies and I personally don't believe there is a better combination than the 4805 and the D1. That's why I have recommended that combo for all my friends and family (nine systems).

I need something that does not move when my kids turn off the 4805.I wouldn't even go there. I shut my 4805 off with the remote. Period.

Regardless of how secure your ceiling mount for the PJ is, messing with the power switch on the PJ is just asking for problems of image shift. If you believe you must remove the power altogether (and with 2400hrs on my PJ, I don't) use a switched outlet or switched power-bar.

Having kids climbing on sofas or standing on chairs to play with the PJ is just a bad idea.

I wouldn't even go there. I shut my 4805 off with the remote. Period.

Regardless of how secure your ceiling mount for the PJ is, messing with the power switch on the PJ is just asking for problems of image shift. If you believe you must remove the power altogether (and with 2400hrs on my PJ, I don't) use a switched outlet or switched power-bar.

Having kids climbing on sofas or standing on chairs to play with the PJ is just a bad idea.My kids are in their twenties worst then the younger ones. So what you are saying is just power down the PJ with the remote and leave it in stand by mode is this correct...that would be nice...is that what most owners do?

once mine is out of warranty, replacing the fan will be the first thing i do. hell, i might even do it before then...
If and when you try it, please use a SPL meter before and after to get a true reading on any noise reduction.

We'd love to hear the results.

So what you are saying is just power down the PJ with the remote and leave it in stand by mode is this correctAccording to the manual, either is acceptable. Some people who live in very dusty environments suggest that leaving the projector running in standby just makes it an expensive air cleaner and they may have a point. I haven't routinely powered mine off in seven months and my filters have never been dirty enough to clean.

But my computer and my DVR also run 24-hours per day. I come from a broadcast background where we never shut equipment down - it's simply more reliable.

Is the 4805's menu also fuzzy in 720p or only your source? I imagine this may be an issue with the source. Is it noticeably fuzzier or just slightly?

No the infocus menu is not fuzzy, it is noticeably fuzzier, and I have used three different sources for 720p, also check the cables by bypassing them.

I use an Audio authority dist. amp for sending the signal to both my Direct view and the PJ, and the problem is not noticeable on the direct view, so I don't think its a source or cable issue.

I wouldn't even go there. I shut my 4805 off with the remote. Period.

Regardless of how secure your ceiling mount for the PJ is, messing with the power switch on the PJ is just asking for problems of image shift. If you believe you must remove the power altogether (and with 2400hrs on my PJ, I don't) use a switched outlet or switched power-bar.

Having kids climbing on sofas or standing on chairs to play with the PJ is just a bad idea.

My ceiling is low (6'4") and I have been reaching up and turning off my PJ from the main switch for a year and a half, nothing has ever moved, no problems.

Obviously if I had an 8 foot ceiling and I had to get up on a couch or something, I would never do it, but I just reach up and turn it off. . .

Wes

According to the manual, either is acceptable. Some people who live in very dusty environments suggest that leaving the projector running in standby just makes it an expensive air cleaner and they may have a point. I haven't routinely powered mine off in seven months and my filters have never been dirty enough to clean.

But my computer and my DVR also run 24-hours per day. I come from a broadcast background where we never shut equipment down - it's simply more reliable.


I have mine hooked up to a powerstrip that is in easy reach and I just fl;ip the switch to shut her down.

I'm contemplating getting an anamorphic lens, to be used with my IF 4805. I figured, while I'm at it, I'll get a Momitsu DVD player so that I can do 1:1 pixel-mapping, for best possible PQ. However, I've read that when 1:1 pixel mapping, you have to set the 4805 to "Native". But for constant height I'd need to set the 4805 to "Letterbox". Is there any way to get 1:1 pixel mapping from a Momitsu DVD to 4805 with 4805 in Letterbox mode?
Or am I missing something (not unlikely!) ?

Thanks,

TC

No the infocus menu is not fuzzy, it is noticeably fuzzier, and I have used three different sources for 720p, also check the cables by bypassing them.

I use an Audio authority dist. amp for sending the signal to both my Direct view and the PJ, and the problem is not noticeable on the direct view, so I don't think its a source or cable issue.

Was there any changes in your set up recently that you started to notice the fuzziness? You mention the distribution amp, did you just add this to your set up or was it there before? I know you said it's not the amps fault, but try bypassing the amp and see if it makes any difference by going directly to the 4805.

I'm contemplating getting an anamorphic lens, to be used with my IF 4805. I figured, while I'm at it, I'll get a Momitsu DVD player so that I can do 1:1 pixel-mapping, for best possible PQ. However, I've read that when 1:1 pixel mapping, you have to set the 4805 to "Native". But for constant height I'd need to set the 4805 to "Letterbox". Is there any way to get 1:1 pixel mapping from a Momitsu DVD to 4805 with 4805 in Letterbox mode?
Or am I missing something (not unlikely!) ?

I'm doing the same thing, only I will be using my HTPC to scale. I THINK, when be begin talking about anomorphic lenes, we will be giving up some of the pixel mapping advantages as we start scaling images and introducing lens distortion. If it were me, I would use my current DVD player 1st and see how I liked the images before I upped for the Momistsu....that said...the Momistsu may give you more scaling options to help set up the lens.

I'm doing the same thing, only I will be using my HTPC to scale. I THINK, when be begin talking about anomorphic lenes, we will be giving up some of the pixel mapping advantages as we start scaling images and introducing lens distortion. If it were me, I would use my current DVD player 1st and see how I liked the images before I upped for the Momistsu....that said...the Momistsu may give you more scaling options to help set up the lens.

That's why I wanted to go with pixel-mapping. Plus the image will be larger (with 2.35:1 anyway) so I wanted to send the best possible image to the PJ. But, if running it in "Letterbox" mode will be flushing the pixel-mapping gains down the crapper, then I won't bother.
Anyone here doing what I'm contemplating (Pixel-mapped to PJ [letterbox mode] to anamorphic lens ) ?

Thanks,

TC

I asked this a while back but never did get an answer...

Does pixel mapping a non 16:9 picture to the 4805 really get you 1:1 from the dvd?

If I have a 2.35:1 image on the dvd it doesn't include those black bars in the actual dvd, so the real picture is only as tall as it appears. Is that 480 lines? If so when it gets to the 4805 pixel mapped it can't be really 1:1 because it's using only a portion of the 4805's 480 lines...

Dont know if that made sense...

Does anybody know if there are any pictures posted anywhere on the forums of the Infocus 4805? And where? I might be purchasing the 4805. How does it compare to the Optoma H27? I have read on another forum that the H27 is better than the 4805. But never any explanation of why, and how much better. I can get the 4805 down the street at Circuit City for $999. And get an extended 4 year warranty for only $179. I like the Idea of buying it in person. Not doing the mail order thing.

I'm contemplating getting an anamorphic lens, to be used with my IF 4805. I figured, while I'm at it, I'll get a Momitsu DVD player so that I can do 1:1 pixel-mapping, for best possible PQ. However, I've read that when 1:1 pixel mapping, you have to set the 4805 to "Native". But for constant height I'd need to set the 4805 to "Letterbox". Is there any way to get 1:1 pixel mapping from a Momitsu DVD to 4805 with 4805 in Letterbox mode?
Or am I missing something (not unlikely!) ?

Thanks,

TC

If you do 1:1 pixel mapping with the player, and then setting the 4805 to Letterbox mode, the 4805 will be scaling the original 1:1 pixel mapped image. The advantage of 1:1 pixel mapping is having the source do all the deinterlacing and scaling so that the 4805 does not have to do any. I'm not familiar with the way the momitsu works, but if you can create a setting that will stretch the image in the player to emulate the similar scaling that the 4805 would do in Letterbox mode, then you may have better results. Therefore the 4805 will still be in native mode with a 1:1 pixel mapped image. But don't quote me on that.

I asked this a while back but never did get an answer...

Does pixel mapping a non 16:9 picture to the 4805 really get you 1:1 from the dvd?

If I have a 2.35:1 image on the dvd it doesn't include those black bars in the actual dvd, so the real picture is only as tall as it appears. Is that 480 lines? If so when it gets to the 4805 pixel mapped it can't be really 1:1 because it's using only a portion of the 4805's 480 lines...

Dont know if that made sense...

Only problem is...all 2.35:1 movies include the black bars in the image, anamorphic or not. Anamorphic 2.35 movies have smaller black bars than non-anamorphic ones.

Guys, I have what I think is a simple question. I already have a VGA cable running through the ceiling. Can I put a component to VGA adapter on the HDTivo end using the componenet out, and then a VGA to component adapter on the projector side and use the Component in for HDTV?

Only problem is...all 2.35:1 movies include the black bars in the image, anamorphic or not. Anamorphic 2.35 movies have smaller black bars than non-anamorphic ones.

Really? I could have sworn on some of those movies when I play them on my computer in media player the window resizes to the exact size of the actual picture which wouldn't be possible if the black bars were built in.

Really? I could have sworn on some of those movies when I play them on my computer in media player the window resizes to the exact size of the actual picture which wouldn't be possible if the black bars were built in.

Are you sure you were you watching a 2.35:1 aspect ratio movie on DVD? 1.85:1 anamorphic movies will have a very small (maybe unnoticeable) black bars. 1.78:1 movies should have no bars. It's also possible your media player wither resized it or cropped the bars off via software.

Guys, I have what I think is a simple question. I already have a VGA cable running through the ceiling. Can I put a component to VGA adapter on the HDTivo end using the componenet out, and then a VGA to component adapter on the projector side and use the Component in for HDTV?

Though I haven't tried it myself, I don't see why it wouldn't work. You could also just use the vga on the 4805 end to connect to the 4805's vga input using the vga to m1 adapter that comes with the 4805.

Though I haven't tried it myself, I don't see why it wouldn't work. You could also just use the vga on the 4805 end to connect to the 4805's vga input using the vga to m1 adapter that comes with the 4805.

Can I do that into the m1 adapter? I thought I read somewhere that the M1 would only support digital input, and not the output from Component.

M1 only supports progressive signals, it won't support 480i for example (but it will do 1080i). There is also an m1 to component adapter that works with the 4805, I don't think Infocus would have it available (along with m1 to vga) if they didn't work with m1 inputs.

Thank you very much for your help, I apreciate it. Off to order my component to VGA adapter, only 1!

Has anyone ever seen a component to VGA adapter with a FEMALE VGA end? Trying to take one adapter out of my mess. Otherwise it's going to be HDTivo- Componet to VGA adapter- VGA gender changer- VGA cable- VGA to M1 adapter- projector. Ughh.

Is there a 1000 page book I can get on the abbreviations you guys use on this forum. I have been into stereo since 1970. I am new to the Projector world. But have read 50-100 magazines and researched for 4 months on forums. It just seams that when I post a question, its skipped over, to answer a question posted earlier.

Jeff,
There used to be a glossary linked on the avs menu but I'm not sure if its still there. There are pics of 4805 in many people's photo galleries. You can get more info on the 4805 from Infocus website here and in the user guide:
http://www.infocus.com/service/sp4805/resources.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&

Discussions between the h27 and 4805 were done a few months ago, a search on avs might help but the search does indeed stink. One issue with the h27 is that it has a very big image offset from what I understand. The 4805 is louder than the h27 also.

Does anybody know if there are any pictures posted anywhere on the forums of the Infocus 4805? And where? I might be purchasing the 4805. How does it compare to the Optoma H27? I have read on another forum that the H27 is better than the 4805. But never any explanation of why, and how much better. I can get the 4805 down the street at Circuit City for $999. And get an extended 4 year warranty for only $179. I like the Idea of buying it in person. Not doing the mail order thing.

Jeff,

Here are the nicest one's I've seen in a while:

Luis's screenshots (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6652552#post6652552)

This is as good as it gets, with a pixel mapped HTPC running all the right stuff.

Wes

I wouldn't even go there. I shut my 4805 off with the remote. Period.


When I power mine down w/ just the remote, the fan (?) continues to run and never does stop... your saying this is OK and there is no need to worry about wear and tear (mileage) of what ever it is that continues to run inside (I assume it's just a fan)? It seems that is just excessive use of the motor and all... no? I'm not one to upgrade as soon as something better comes along... I hope to have this for many years and just replace the bulb when needed.

How many here only power down w/ the remote and let the fan continue to run 24/7?

One thing I'm trying to stop doing... hitting stop on my DvD, going into my office for something, and then returning after 3 hours to see a big DENON on my wall... now I know that's not good. :o

Thanks,
RD

Also- on my screen quest... it looks like it's going to be the Greywolf thanks to Mboys suggestion... but I'm still reading

Hello. Recently acquired the Infocus 10m DVI-M1 cable and decided to try the DVI connection from my LG LST-4200A ATSC tuner, which thus far has been connected via component video to the SP4805.

Frankly, it looked like crap. The SP4805 was reporting 1920x540x59Hz on the 1080i channels and 720p on the 720p channels. I am still running the 1.02 firmware.

It looked a lot like a laptop PC where you set Windows to a resolution one size down from the panel's native resoluton. Very blocking, very digitized. I was a bit surprised that it looked so bad.

So I guess my curiousity is whether the 4200A's DVI output is so bad or if the 4805's M1 input is so bad with non-pixel-mapped input. The cable's purpose was so I could experiment with a HTPC playing DVDs at 48Hz via a DVI connection, and that looked great. Even the 720p channels looked pretty bad, although not as bad as the 1080i ones.

Any input? Just don't use the M1 input if you can't resize ahead of time to 854/848x480? Unfortunately, that's not an output option for the LST-4200A.

M1 only supports progressive signals, it won't support 480i for example (but it will do 1080i). There is also an m1 to component adapter that works with the 4805, I don't think Infocus would have it available (along with m1 to vga) if they didn't work with m1 inputs.

Sort of related question...

What will happen when blue-ray comes around with 1080i (I don't believe the 4805 supports 1080p)? What happens when the HDMI/M1 port is sent 1080i? Does the faroudja only scale down to 480p and does no de-interlacing? Where/when does the de-interlace step take place? I thought the faroudja in the 4805 only de-interlaced and scaled analog 480i/576i signals.

Hi,

Now that I have my 4805 properly setup (I got it from BF deal), I seem to notice a problem with projector. Not sure if it has been discussed here before or not but here is what I notice:

Whenever I view dvd/hdtv programming, I notice that the projector will go blank and display "setting up image". It happens more often with hdtv signal than dvd, but it occurs on both. The projector will go blank for about 2-5 seconds before regaining back the signal. It happens interminnently and I cant really say what's causing it.

I've heard that there is issue with flickering on firmware 1.13 and thats what I have now, but I dont think this is flicker issue? My setup is currently using component cables from dvd and hdtv receiver to my onkyo receiver then the onkyo uses component to go to 4805. Is it firmware/hardware issue?

I suggest you go out and buy a Component Switcher. Radio Shack has a good sale on one for about $50.00. I tried running Component to my 4805 with a Monoprice Component cable through an Onkyo Receiver. The signal was bad. Try running the Component cable straight from the Cable box to the PJ and see what happens.

Sort of related question...

What will happen when blue-ray comes around with 1080i (I don't believe the 4805 supports 1080p)? What happens when the HDMI/M1 port is sent 1080i? Does the faroudja only scale down to 480p and does no de-interlacing? Where/when does the de-interlace step take place? I thought the faroudja in the 4805 only de-interlaced and scaled analog 480i/576i signals.

Heck, I'm sending 1080i from a HDMI source to the DVI-D M1 adapter of the 4805 and it has an awesome PQ. It is called HDTV, Dish 811 HD and sounds and looks great. How, I dunno, it just does. :)

there is no need to worry about wear and tearIt's only a fan running at very low speed! Just make sure your filters remain clean.returning after 3 hours to see a big DENON on my wallThere's nothing particularily wrong with that other than burning a few lamp hours. And it's better that you do that than continuously restarting the lamp - each "strike" of the lamp is roughly equivalent to 2 hours of lamp life. With DLP there is no issue with "burning in" a static image.

Question about focus.

On a regualr closeup shotor something nearfiled in a scene, the focus is very sharp and their is plenty of detail on my 92" screen from 12-13' away. Scenes that are a little "longer" where the subject(s) are distant appear no where near as sharp or almost a bit out of focus and a bit blurry.
Again, no such problems when their is a closeup.

Is this something I have just never noticed before on a 32" and smaller TV, or is this just the nature of the beast on a 480p non HD type of PJ.
I am talking about DVD's and 1080/720p HD cable as well.

Can't be my PJ focus becuase the closeups are perfect, just any scene where their is a lot of distance to a subject.
Looks almost fuzzy.

Hello. Recently acquired the Infocus 10m DVI-M1 cable and decided to try the DVI connection from my LG LST-4200A ATSC tuner, which thus far has been connected via component video to the SP4805.

Frankly, it looked like crap. The SP4805 was reporting 1920x540x59Hz on the 1080i channels and 720p on the 720p channels. I am still running the 1.02 firmware.

It looked a lot like a laptop PC where you set Windows to a resolution one size down from the panel's native resoluton. Very blocking, very digitized. I was a bit surprised that it looked so bad.

So I guess my curiousity is whether the 4200A's DVI output is so bad or if the 4805's M1 input is so bad with non-pixel-mapped input. The cable's purpose was so I could experiment with a HTPC playing DVDs at 48Hz via a DVI connection, and that looked great. Even the 720p channels looked pretty bad, although not as bad as the 1080i ones.

Any input? Just don't use the M1 input if you can't resize ahead of time to 854/848x480? Unfortunately, that's not an output option for the LST-4200A.

Sounds like a possible calibration issue. Go into the advanced picture menu and set your gains to 58 and offsets to 28.5, see if your picture looks any better.

Sort of related question...

What will happen when blue-ray comes around with 1080i (I don't believe the 4805 supports 1080p)? What happens when the HDMI/M1 port is sent 1080i? Does the faroudja only scale down to 480p and does no de-interlacing? Where/when does the de-interlace step take place? I thought the faroudja in the 4805 only de-interlaced and scaled analog 480i/576i signals.

1080i may be interlaced, but progressive displays sometime process them as 540p which is kind of an equivalent. So no deinterlacing is really needed.

IIRC, I believe the 4805 does accept 1080p. But don't quote me on that.

I'm hoping that "maybe" some of these new players may be able to scale down their image to 854x480.

Well I finnaly got my 106 greywolf and mocked up my newly purchased refurb 4805. I am quite impressed with the quality and I havent even begun to play with the settings. I have my normal light on in the room and the picture is still very watchable. I can't wait to get all my surround sound components in and get everything wired. The HT bug has bit me bad! I have a onkyo 602, athena point 5 system and a dayton sub on the way.

Question about focus.

On a regualr closeup shotor something nearfiled in a scene, the focus is very sharp and their is plenty of detail on my 92" screen from 12-13' away. Scenes that are a little "longer" where the subject(s) are distant appear no where near as sharp or almost a bit out of focus and a bit blurry.
Again, no such problems when their is a closeup.

Very true. Nothing looks better than a closeup on the 4805, and nothing reminds you more of the limitations of low resolution source material or projector than far shots with plenty of small details.

A higher resolution PJ will help. A higher resolution PJ displaying high resolution source material will help even more. :)

The SP4805 was reporting 1920x540x59Hz on the 1080i channels and 720p on the 720p channels.1920x540x59Hz is actually a correct description of 1080i which ought to properly be called 540/60i .

Check out this excellent discussion (http://www.atd.net/HDTV_faq.html) on this topic.

1920x540x59Hz is actually a correct description of 1080i which ought to properly be called 540/60i .

Check out this excellent discussion (http://www.atd.net/HDTV_faq.html) on this topic.

Thank you Cavu, that is an excellent article. That should be a sticky somewhere here or better yet added to Ja Phule FAQ which is excellent also.

Hello. Recently acquired the Infocus 10m DVI-M1 cable and decided to try the DVI connection from my LG LST-4200A ATSC tuner, which thus far has been connected via component video to the SP4805.

Frankly, it looked like crap. The SP4805 was reporting 1920x540x59Hz on the 1080i channels and 720p on the 720p channels. I am still running the 1.02 firmware.

It looked a lot like a laptop PC where you set Windows to a resolution one size down from the panel's native resoluton. Very blocking, very digitized. I was a bit surprised that it looked so bad.

So I guess my curiousity is whether the 4200A's DVI output is so bad or if the 4805's M1 input is so bad with non-pixel-mapped input. The cable's purpose was so I could experiment with a HTPC playing DVDs at 48Hz via a DVI connection, and that looked great. Even the 720p channels looked pretty bad, although not as bad as the 1080i ones.

Any input? Just don't use the M1 input if you can't resize ahead of time to 854/848x480? Unfortunately, that's not an output option for the LST-4200A.


I have an RCA ATSC HDTV tuner hooked up with M1-DVI cable from monoprice and the PQ is simply amazing.

1080i may be interlaced, but progressive displays sometime process them as 540p which is kind of an equivalent. So no deinterlacing is really needed.

IIRC, I believe the 4805 does accept 1080p. But don't quote me on that.

I'm hoping that "maybe" some of these new players may be able to scale down their image to 854x480.

So, I guess we would have to look at each new blue-ray player (if it provides scaling down to 854x480) that comes along to determine if its scaling looked better or if the 4805's scaling looked better. If scaling down to 480p via HDMI is not avaliable, and we had the option to choose 1080i (540p) output or 720p output from the blue-ray player, we should choose 720p output correct? Or is it another subjective vs objective decision?

I haven't heard that the 4805 would accept 1080p (at least it isn't in the 4805 documentation).

IIRC, I believe the 4805 does accept 1080p. But don't quote me on that.

Someone did report that the 4805 accepts 1080p (and even shows "1080p" in the little grey box) in the first 4805 thread. Sorry for quoting you ;)

So, I guess we would have to look at each new blue-ray player (if it provides scaling down to 854x480) that comes along to determine if its scaling looked better or if the 4805's scaling looked better. If scaling down to 480p via HDMI is not avaliable, and we had the option to choose 1080i (540p) output or 720p output from the blue-ray player, we should choose 720p output correct? Or is it another subjective vs objective decision?

I haven't heard that the 4805 would accept 1080p (at least it isn't in the 4805 documentation).

If the 4805 can accept 1080p as it was mentioned in the old thread, then I would let the 4805 scale it down at 1080p.

BR and HD-DVD movies can be in a variety of resolutions including 480p, 720p, 1080i, and 1080p. I would have the player output whatever resolution the actual movie is in if there was a setting to let it do that automatically. However, if the player can do 854x480 (which is speculation on my part) then I would have it do that instead also. I must note 480p (720x480p) is not the same as 854x480.

Speaking of 1080p and the 4805... I'm guessing someone could try setting their HTPC to 1080p (1920x1080) and see if the 4805 accepts it as 1080p.

I'd try it myself, but I'm having issues getting the 4805 to sync to 720p (1280x720) over DVI with the 1.13 firmware. I'm guessing 1080p wouldn't work either. Can anyone else do this on their video card? I've been able to get 720p over vga, but not DVI on my vid card unfortunately. I'm using a Geforce 5700. 720p and 1080i work fine over DVI with my Oppo though.

If the 4805 can accept 1080p as it was mentioned in the old thread, then I would let the 4805 scale it down at 1080p.


I know for a fact that the 4805 can accept 1080p - I can't remember exactly what I downloaded to watch, but it was in 1080p - I believe it was a demo for T2 Extreme, which is 1080p.

If the 4805 can accept 1080p as it was mentioned in the old thread, then I would let the 4805 scale it down at 1080p.

BR and HD-DVD movies can be in a variety of resolutions including 480p, 720p, 1080i, and 1080p. I would have the player output whatever resolution the actual movie is in if there was a setting to let it do that automatically. However, if the player can do 854x480 (which is speculation on my part) then I would have it do that instead also. I must note 480p (720x480p) is not the same as 854x480.

Actually, it was reported that both BD and HD-DVD are or should be encoded at 1080p/24. It would just depend on what the player was capable of outputting which some first-gen blue-ray players are capable of. I haven't heard of a first-gen HD-DVD player capable of that.

What's the advantage of having the player scale to 854x480, which is 1:1, versus having the 4805 scale from 1080p to 854x480?

Yup. Most big studio releases will be in 1080p, but a studio can release a movie in 720p if they wanted to, in case they wanted to save reduce movie size in order to fit a movie on an hd-dvd9 or bd-9 discs.

Letting the 4805 do the scaling may be better in the end, it just depends which chip does better scaling, the 4805 or the player itself.

Hi,

I'm sorry if this has been discussed before. I did a search and there were some similar posts, but I'm not sure this is the same thing.

I've had the 4805 since early december, bought brand new. Everything looks great but I am noticing something now. Whether I watch a dvd with component video cables or cable tv through s-video, I notice a slight "flash" about every 20 seconds on the projected image. It's not very bright (my wife doesn't even notice it) and doesn't last that long, but I definitely notice it. I'm not sure if this is the "flickering" that some others have described.

Is this a big problem? How can i fix it? Do I have to send it in?

It says software version: 1.2.1, Boot Version 1.3, OEM version 1.2. Do I have to change something, and how do i go about that?

Thanks for all your help!!

are you aware what the rainbow effect is? you could be seeing rainbows if it's not defective.

Yup. Most big studio releases will be in 1080p, but a studio can release a movie in 720p if they wanted to, in case they wanted to save reduce movie size in order to fit a movie on an hd-dvd9 or bd-9 discs.

Letting the 4805 do the scaling may be better in the end, it just depends which chip does better scaling, the 4805 or the player itself.

Hopefully, space shouldn't be an issue with 1080p BR movies since BR has 50GB to play around with (or even 100GB quad-layer) for H.264/VC1 compressed movies. Well, at least for the movie portion of the disc. I don't care if the supplemental material is encoded at a lower res/bitrate.

The faroudja chip in the 4805 is pretty well regarded, but hopefully even better quality scalers will be available in the new BR players.

BTW, good FAQ. I read through it and was wondering why your video DVI levels differ from the ones that Bob from Infocus posted way back when.

Hi,

I'm sorry if this has been discussed before. I did a search and there were some similar posts, but I'm not sure this is the same thing.

I've had the 4805 since early december, bought brand new. Everything looks great but I am noticing something now. Whether I watch a dvd with component video cables or cable tv through s-video, I notice a slight "flash" about every 20 seconds on the projected image. It's not very bright (my wife doesn't even notice it) and doesn't last that long, but I definitely notice it. I'm not sure if this is the "flickering" that some others have described.

Is this a big problem? How can i fix it? Do I have to send it in?

It says software version: 1.2.1, Boot Version 1.3, OEM version 1.2. Do I have to change something, and how do i go about that?

Thanks for all your help!!

It's a firmware issue. More info and how to resolve it in the FAQ in my signature.

I read through it and was wondering why your video DVI levels differ from the ones that Bob from Infocus posted way back when.I just checked the numbers in the FAQ and they are the correct numbers and the only ones that Bob Williams has ever suggested for the SP4805. What numbers are your referring to?

Hopefully, space shouldn't be an issue with 1080p BR movies since BR has 50GB to play around with (or even 100GB quad-layer) for H.264/VC1 compressed movies. Well, at least for the movie portion of the disc. I don't care if the supplemental material is encoded at a lower res/bitrate.

The faroudja chip in the 4805 is pretty well regarded, but hopefully even better quality scalers will be available in the new BR players.

BTW, good FAQ. I read through it and was wondering why your video DVI levels differ from the ones that Bob from Infocus posted way back when.

They should be the same as Bob's numbers.

They should be the same as Bob's numbers.
I think ctso is refereing to the 66/39 gains/offsets that Bob had posted in reference to the 72xx series PJ's and some here were trying to apply these settings to the 4805 without success.

It's a firmware issue. More info and how to resolve it in the FAQ in my signature.

Hi,

Great info with your FAQ. Thanks so much for that.

If it is a firmware issue, how do I go about changing it once I download the older firmware?

Also, does changing the firmware void the warranty in any way?

Thanks!

You can update the firmware by connecting the 4805 via the m1 to vga/usb adapter to your pc's usb. I think there's a link to the old firmware in the FAQ. I think there are instructions on how to update the firmware in the manual or on the infocus support site here:
http://www.infocus.com/service/sp4805/sp4805.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&

Hi,

So for me, I am actually downgrading to an earlier firmware, correct?

Thanks for your help!

There has been much talk about using DVE (which I own) and AVIA for calibrating your 4805. I thought these were the only 2 choices.
But while surfing the web I came across this....

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BF0DH4/ref=pd_ys_pym_all_12/103-7261587-8007046?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance&n=130

Has anyone used this?!

Sean

I am looking for a 30 foot dvi to mi cable to hook up my hdtv receiver to the 4805 monoprice only has 25 or 50 any suggestions other than infocus.
Thanks Wayne

I bought my 30' DVI from Blue Jeans cable and use adapter without issue. Now if my 8300DVR software would stop throwing HDCP errors I could use it. My SA3250 HD box was stunning over the DVI.

I know for a fact that the 4805 can accept 1080p - I can't remember exactly what I downloaded to watch, but it was in 1080p - I believe it was a demo for T2 Extreme, which is 1080p.And you had your video card set to output 1080p?

Ok, First-time poster here. I've been going all through the forums trying to figure this
out. When you've pixel-mapped (I.E. matched native resolution with vid card) you're letting the media player handle the DVD content (Which would be 4:3 squeezed 16:9 content) and scale it to the native resolution of the projector. Some other people take the content and feed it to the Projector as 4:3 squeezed 16:9 content and use an Anamorphic Lens to output the correct 2.35:1 aspect ratio (Of course this is not for all movies). My question is would it be better to have the video card output a 720x480 to the DVI connector on the SP4805 (Which it sould scale to the 852x480 resolution assumedly) and use an anamorphic lens or Use a component out signal and let the Faroujda Scaler handle it and also use an anamorphic lens? Or is it better to just let the Media Player handle the scaling to the SP4805's Native Resolution (Or however close you can get to that...) and mask the balck bars in some capacity (Via a 2.35:1 screen or cloth masking or whatever...)

Didn't know where else to post this since it's a combination of so many different details.

Thanks

There has been much talk about using DVE (which I own) and AVIA for calibrating your 4805. I thought these were the only 2 choices.
But while surfing the web I came across this....

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BF0DH4/ref=pd_ys_pym_all_12/103-7261587-8007046?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance&n=130

Has anyone used this?!

Sean

Get DVE or AVIA!!! I use DVE myself. Most would say it's a little harder to navigate thru, but not at least not for me. And, you get better filters with DVE.

DeerHunter...

Thanks for the input!! I use DVE myself as well. I just happen to come across this one and because it was created more resently (2005) I thought it might be worth a look.

Sean

Just for information sake:

The 4805 that I raved about three weeks ago just stopped working.
It was bought from Infocus direct as a refurbished unit so it realy doesn't reflect the quality of the new units.

I sent in the RMA request, so let's see how well they handle their customer service requests.

I still love the picture and the low fan noise and the client loves it too.

I think ctso is refereing to the 66/39 gains/offsets that Bob had posted in reference to the 72xx series PJ's and some here were trying to apply these settings to the 4805 without success.

Correct, it was such a long time ago that I forgot that Bob's original post was referring to the 720x's video dvi levels.

I bought my 30' DVI from Blue Jeans cable and use adapter without issue. Now if my 8300DVR software would stop throwing HDCP errors I could use it. My SA3250 HD box was stunning over the DVI.

I was hoping to get a cable that didn't need an adapter. Any other suggestions
Wayne

Ok, have a Bravo D1 on the way (cheapie of rme to swap loader and play around with).
Any settings in the d1 info for my 4805 would be MUCH appreciated.
Already have DVI to m1 cable.
Thanks.

Get DVE or AVIA!!! I use DVE myself. Most would say it's a little harder to navigate thru, but not at least not for me. And, you get better filters with DVE.

And I must add.... the "average Joe" user whose not a Tweakophobe or Videophile will be happy using the THX Optimizer found on most ILM type DVD's.

Just bouce back and forth between brightness and contast a few time to dial it in. Leave the colors at default hues, and just tweak the saturation.

-W

Any settings in the d1 info for my 4805 would be MUCH appreciated.
SP4805 defaults all the way except:RGB Gains (3) = 58
RGB Offsets (3) = 28.5
White Peaking = 0
Aspect Ratio = Native

D1 Settings:DVI Out = 852x480
TV Type = 16:9

And I must add.... the "average Joe" user whose not a Tweakophobe or Videophile will be happy using the THX Optimizer found on most ILM type DVD's.

Just bouce back and forth between brightness and contast a few time to dial it in. Leave the colors at default hues, and just tweak the saturation.

-W
I know that a lot of posters here are recommending the THX Optimizer for calibration. I remember a pretty lengthy discussion in the old 4805 thread about the THX Optimizer should not be used to calibrate your display, but should only be used for the movie you are currently watching.

For example, when watching Finding Nemo, you should use the Optimizer on that disc. When watching The Incredibles, you should use the Optimizer that disc. The Optimizer on each disc is to be used only for the movie on that disc.

Anyone else remember those posts ?

I know that a lot of posters here are recommending the THX Optimizer for calibration. I remember a pretty lengthy discussion in the old 4805 thread about the THX Optimizer should not be used to calibrate your display, but should only be used for the movie you are currently watching.

For example, when watching Finding Nemo, you should use the Optimizer on that disc. When watching The Incredibles, you should use the Optimizer that disc. The Optimizer on each disc is to be used only for the movie on that disc.

Anyone else remember those posts ?

--- That is correct , each disc is designed to calibrate for that particular movie . Some are very close to being a proper calibration like you would get with DVE/AVIA but not 100% there ;) .

---------- Jason

Momitsu 880 DX on it's way...anyone care to help me w/settings?

Thanks,

TC

Howdy folks,

I am tinkering with my old computer and my 4805. So I gave it a relatively decent decent video card (I think) PNY 6600 256MB connected through DVI.

I can map it to 848 * 480 (I know about the croppping 3 pixels on the side) on the desktop, so I am essentially getting a 1:1 mapping, and it looks great....BUT...when I start playing games, say Madden 2005, I can't get the option to go 848 * 480!!... It's ALWAYS the freakin 4:3 resolutions, 800* 600, 1024 * 768...what's the deal, am I doing something wrong?

Please help! Thanks in advance!!!!

--- That is correct , each disc is designed to calibrate for that particular movie . Some are very close to being a proper calibration like you would get with DVE/AVIA but not 100% there ;) .

---------- Jason

With that in mind I wanna say the ones on the cartoons are the worst then. I find the ones on the Star Wars series in general, revenge of the Sith in particular, to be close enough to earn an A.

-W

I bought my 30' DVI from Blue Jeans cable and use adapter without issue. Now if my 8300DVR software would stop throwing HDCP errors I could use it. My SA3250 HD box was stunning over the DVI.

I am getting the same error with my HD Cable box which is a Motorolla DCT-6208. And the Picture with DVI output is very dark. Does anyone know what the solution is or even having this problem?

SP4805 defaults all the way except:RGB Gains (3) = 58
RGB Offsets (3) = 28.5
White Peaking = 0
Aspect Ratio = Native

D1 Settings:DVI Out = 852x480
TV Type = 16:9

Thank you King of all D1's.

I am getting the same error with my HD Cable box which is a Motorolla DCT-6208. And the Picture with DVI output is very dark. Does anyone know what the solution is or even having this problem?


When I had a problem with dark image going from 480p DVD to 1080i or 720p HD cable, it was told me to in this thread to hit the reimage button.
Solved my problem!

Has anyone here ever found the need to use the audio lip sync with the 4805?

Just curious since my receiver does not have that feature.

I just got a 4805 and am extremely impressed. I am using it as my main TV, and like to often leave it on in the background and watch it for small stretches. My question is: Is it better to turn it off while I not watching it? The bulbs are expensive so if all the turning on/off of the lamp shortens the life, then I'm probably better off just running it.

DeerHunter...

Thanks for the input!! I use DVE myself as well. I just happen to come across this one and because it was created more resently (2005) I thought it might be worth a look.

SeanI am thinking the same thing. I have both DVE and AVIA, but I noticed this one from Amazon is much newer. DVE is not too bad, but AVIA seems to be a bit dated.

Momitsu 880 DX on it's way...anyone care to help me w/settings?Same as message #1640 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6918170&&#post6918170).

Is it better to turn it off while I not watching it?Each lamp strike is worth a couple hours of lamp life. I leave mine running for periods of up to ~2hrs when I know I am returning. I am approaching 2500hrs.

I just finished building a modified Monkey_Man mount for my PJ. It is a vanilla setup so I'm not including any pictures. The only major difference is that I used 3/8" acrylic. I found a couple of old 24x48" sheets at work that were going to be trashed. (We used to use the stuff as radiation shielding in the lab.)

I made the template using a piece of lamination sheet to trace the location of the mounting holes and projector feet. Pretty straight forward.

I remember seeing a request or two many messages back for a printable template, so I scanned mine and labeled it. Do not scale it when you print it and everything should line up properly. I had to zip it since it is larger than the allowable size limits.

(Just trying to contribute what I can to this great thread. All the information has been invaluable. Thanks everyone!)

Jeff

I was hoping to get a cable that didn't need an adapter. Any other suggestions
Wayne 30 foot dvi-m1

bump

30 foot dvi-m1Infocus SP-M1-10M (http://froogle.google.com/froogle?ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&q=SP-M1-10M&lmode=online&scoring=p).

So its been my understanding that the faroudja processor in the 4805 allows you to use a pretty poor DVD player as long as you output the 480p so that it does the processing.

I'm thinking about getting the yamaha yth-160 HTIB but it doesn't come with a DVD player. I have the Xbox 360 to use as a DVD player, which I believe is pretty poor for DVDs. The only alternative would be buying another similarly priced HTIB with a DVD player.

Should I not be worried at All what quality DVD player I'm using? Assuming it'll be at best average anyway, I'm not paying a lot for a really great one. If I am using the faroudja processor will these DVD players all look the same?

Thanks for the help

So its been my understanding that the faroudja processor in the 4805 allows you to use a pretty poor DVD player as long as you output the 480p so that it does the processing. That should be 480i!!!

Ahh ok right I should have said 480i there. That being the case, any advice on if I should be concerned about using the Xbox DVD player over one included in a HTIB (such as the entry level onkyo one, which would be my other option).

Basically if the DVD player is not an issue I've already decided on the Yamaha yht-160, so I'm not really looking for any advice on the specific HTIB models beyond if I should be worried about DVD player quality.

Actually looks like the Xbox360 will only output at 480p when using the dvd player with my current settings. Seems to answer my question, as this won't use the processor right?

Can I buy a really cheap (like 30-50) dollar dvd player or should I get a different HTIB with an integrated DVD player?

Ahh ok right I should have said 480i there. That being the case, any advice on if I should be concerned about using the Xbox DVD player over one included in a HTIBDon't have and know little about Xbox units but I strongly suspect that they are progressive output boxes and *probably* not particularily suitable for feeding movies to the SP4805. Hearing of noise and heat from these things, I would think you'd be better off with a basic 480i DVD player. Others hopefully will chime in with better qualified Xbox opinions.

Posted earlier in the week... no response. Just throwing this out there again in case someone has run into this or has a thought - or another source of information I can consult :

Guys & gals - Thanks to the info on AVS, I own both a 4800 and a 4805. I enjoyed the 4800 for about 2 years, and recently acquired a used 4805 from a friend at a great price...

Haven't found an answer to the following question during my searches of this thread - Question = why did my PQ seem pretty much identical beween 720p and 1080i w/ the 4800, whereas with the 4805, 720p is definitely better?

Setup:

Zenith DVB318, component to 4805, ceiling-mounted 4805 set for 16 x 9, no keystone correction, 14 ft viewing distance, 6 ft wide InFocus pull-down 16 x 9 screen.

Thank you for any and all input !

- Daniel

I am getting the same error with my HD Cable box which is a Motorolla DCT-6208. And the Picture with DVI output is very dark. Does anyone know what the solution is or even having this problem?

I couldn't get my SA8300 to work with the 4805 over DVI- always HDCP issues that would lock the 8300 up.

I ended up using component for the 8300, looks great. I couldn't tell a difference when the DVI connection would work for a while, between component or DVI with the 8300. . .

Wes

It seems hard to find a DVD player these days that is not progressive. Is it safe to assume that a cheapo progressive DVD player will have an option to output 480i?

Posted earlier in the week... no response. Just throwing this out there again in case someone has run into this or has a thought - or another source of information I can consult :

Guys & gals - Thanks to the info on AVS, I own both a 4800 and a 4805. I enjoyed the 4800 for about 2 years, and recently acquired a used 4805 from a friend at a great price...

Haven't found an answer to the following question during my searches of this thread - Question = why did my PQ seem pretty much identical beween 720p and 1080i w/ the 4800, whereas with the 4805, 720p is definitely better?

Setup:

Zenith DVB318, component to 4805, ceiling-mounted 4805 set for 16 x 9, no keystone correction, 14 ft viewing distance, 6 ft wide InFocus pull-down 16 x 9 screen.

Thank you for any and all input !

- Daniel

I would guess the 4800 is 800x600 and thus not an even multiple of 720 or 1080. The 4805 is a 480 projector which is a 1.5:1 ratio for 720 however not really a good ratio of any kind for 1080 thus not able to reproduce it as neatly.

That being said I honestly think 1080i pickture looks pretty good on my 4805...

It seems hard to find a DVD player these days that is not progressive. Is it safe to assume that a cheapo progressive DVD player will have an option to output 480i?

Yes. Pretty much every DVD player I have seen can switch between the two.

Big thanks for all the help! Gonna head out to pick up the HTIB and an el-cheapo dvd player.

I've had the 4805 for about 10 months now and I remember reading early on in the first 4805 thread about someones picture being offset in different inputs and don't remember what the out come was.
I have my pioneer 563a DVD player hooked up with component and my samsung 160 DTV box hooked with a DVI to M1.
If I watch something on DTV then watch a movie from the DVD player my picture is offset about 2-3 inches to the right. I have to swivel the projector to get it lined up again.The same thing happens if one day I watch a movie then the next day I want to watch a game on DTV. I have to turn the projector back. I have a universal UPM50 ceiling mount so just turning it hasn't been a problem, but now I've rearranged the furniture and have to stand on a recliner to move the projector.
Is this a firmware issue ? I have the original 1.02.
I have the projector set for 16:9 and the other two units set to the same.
Any help would be appreciated.

Big thanks for all the help! Gonna head out to pick up the HTIB and an el-cheapo dvd player.

Perfect el-cheapo DVD player can be found here. (http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Philips-DVD-Player-DVP642-/sem/rpsm/oid/100066/catOid/-12872/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do) It is the same one I use when not using the HTPC.

Found the answer thanks anyway :)
There is a raster adjustment for a pc monitor in the setup menu of the Samsung 160 if your hooked up with either RGB or DVI.
I've put up with this for 10 months for a setup adjustment.
Shame on me :rolleyes:

- Devedander,

Thanks. The ratio answer does make sense.

- Daniel

Same as message #1640 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6918170&&#post6918170).
Sorry, my post was a bit vague. I'm aware of the famous Bob Williams numbers, and obviously 854x480 for pixel mapping, but I get the impression that I'll have to set up a custom resolution with the Momitsu, something like this, which I found on the original thread (not specifically for a Momitsu, tho):


Hor Freq - 60000 Vert Freq - 7503
Vid Width- 0854 Video Height- 0480
Hsync Total-1312 Pre Hsync - 0016
Hsync Active 0096 Post Hsync - 0176
Vsync Total- 0800 Pre Vsync - 0001
Vsync Active - 0003 Post Vsync 0028
Hsync Polarity- 0001 Vsync Polarity- 0001


Aside from from the 854x480 line, I'm clueless. Will these #'s work? If not, how do I figure out correct #'s?

Thanks,

TC

Posted earlier in the week... no response.
Haven't found an answer to the following question during my searches of this thread - Question = why did my PQ seem pretty much identical beween 720p and 1080i w/ the 4800, whereas with the 4805, 720p is definitely better?
- Daniel
Off the top of my head Dan I'd say the two pj's have fairly different specs for aspect ratio, native resolution & scalar software to start with. I would try & figure out why you like the picture quality with the 4805 using your current settings & equipment. Once you figure that out you could optimise your current setup even more to your liking; or have a better understanding of what you want when it comes time to upgrade a component in your current system.

i hope you 4805' ers can help me with a rainbow question

i returned an optoma h31 becuase it was bundled with a screen i didn't like and also because i saw rainbows

toward the end of several weeks viewing they were getting less noticeable and in every other respect i really liked the h31

can anybody weigh in on the 4805 vs h31 rainbow issue?

they are the same wheel speed .... is the 4805 more prone, less prone to rbe

are there things that will mitigate it?

i am looking at a panny 900 and frankly since all i watch is dvd i wonder if i will be paying for something that i won't need

the h31 picture was excellent and i thought dvd's looked great

since i can get a refurbed 4805 for about a 1/3 the price of the 900 i am tempted

anybody....?

Has anyone here had any issues with DVI input? I have a 5 month old system and the DVI input stopped working. I checked it with two different inputs (cable box and DVD player). Changed all the cables out. Just sent it to Infocus for repair. They sent it back after just 3 days without any information. Needless to say, it still doesn't work.

I went to a local company here in Greensboro today and they offered to check all my cables and the 4805. We found that my cables work fine on their equipment as well as on a brand new Infocus projector they took out of the box in front of me to confirm. Plugged in my projector and nothing on the DVI side. All other inputs work fine however.

Anyone have any ideas? Is Infocus repair really this bad? I plan to call them Monday and see what they will do next?

Thanks for any advice....

Has anyone here had any issues with DVI input?

Yes. Do a thread search of my posts for a possible explanation...(sorry, to tired to type tonight.)

Question = why did my PQ seem pretty much identical beween 720p and 1080i w/ the 4800, whereas with the 4805, 720p is definitely better?

Setup:

Zenith DVB318, component to 4805, ceiling-mounted 4805 set for 16 x 9, no keystone correction, 14 ft viewing distance, 6 ft wide InFocus pull-down 16 x 9 screen.

Thank you for any and all input !

- Daniel
You already got an answer regarding the 4800, but the other part doesn't make sense because the DVB-318 is generally regarded as only putting out an excellent picture at 1080i (via component). At 720P or any other resolution, other artifacts are introduced make it inferior to most other decent players.

There's a couple of monster DVB-318 threads in the DVD Players subforum and you'll find this evaluation repeated in them many times.

Not sure why you're seeing the opposite.

i hope you 4805' ers can help me with a rainbow question

i returned an optoma h31 becuase it was bundled with a screen i didn't like and also because i saw rainbows

toward the end of several weeks viewing they were getting less noticeable and in every other respect i really liked the h31

can anybody weigh in on the 4805 vs h31 rainbow issue?

they are the same wheel speed .... is the 4805 more prone, less prone to rbe

are there things that will mitigate it?

i am looking at a panny 900 and frankly since all i watch is dvd i wonder if i will be paying for something that i won't need

the h31 picture was excellent and i thought dvd's looked great

since i can get a refurbed 4805 for about a 1/3 the price of the 900 i am tempted

anybody....?

Rainbow effect will be the same between both projectors, for the most part. I saw them at the beginning and now I don't even notice them anymore. If I do see them, it's because I'm trying to. If they really bother your, go with an LCD projector.

Some have said that the ND2 filter decreases rainbow effect. I would agree it helps a little. I would suggest picking up the 4805 from a place with a long return policy. Pick up an nd2 from an online store too. Try them out for about a month. If it still bothers you, return it.

Has anyone here had any issues with DVI input? I have a 5 month old system and the DVI input stopped working. I checked it with two different inputs (cable box and DVD player). Changed all the cables out. Just sent it to Infocus for repair. They sent it back after just 3 days without any information. Needless to say, it still doesn't work.


It just happened to me, today. It used to work great and worked just fine in the evening when we watched a DVD (playing from my PowerBook through M1->DVI which I've come to prefer over Sony DVD player via component video.)

Then I powered off the projector and turned it back on a couple of hours later and started to get no display from the M1/DVI input. Nothing from the PowerBook DVI output, nothing from the STB (Scientific Atlanta 8300HD DVR via HDMI.) I just wasted an hour plugging/unplugging cables to see what's happening. Plug the M1, STB stops outputting component; unplug the M1, component output comes back (8300HD, with the software TimeWarner Austin uses, doesn't output to component video when it thinks there's a *WORKING* HDMI connection.)

The STB clearly thinks HDMI connection is in place, HDCP handshake and all, because I don't get any signal from its component output while HDMI output is connected to 4805's M1. Furthermore, the STB isn't showing any HDCP error message (when viewed on regular tube TV through S-Video from STB) which it does when it can't establish HDCP handshake with the connected device. 4805's "About" menu shows no signal type with M1 input selected, and all I get is a lovely blank screen projected by 4805.

The M1-to-VGA connector that came with 4805 still works when connected to the PowerBook - of course, I only get true 640x480@60Hz output with it.

Being a software engineer, when I see flakey things like this happen, the first thing I suspect is firmware. Next thing I'll try is resetting to factory setting and/or downgrading/re-upgrading the firmware - but I doubt I'll spend all that much time messing with it further after that.

My 4805 is a factory refurb unit purchased 3.5 months ago. I used to have no interest in front projectors until a coworker brought in his 4805 to the office to give me a demo. I was hooked instantly, and the refurb price was low enough that I thought I'd give the whole home theater concept a try. Given that this was more or less a "starter" experiment, I probably won't bother to get it fixed (not worth the hassle since picture quality of all material I view through component video is still excellent.) I'll just use it until the bulb burns out and look into an upgrade to a newer/better projector. The price on that new IN76 just might be right towards Christmas. :D (I think the current MSRP is already excellent if the quality pans out - we'll see soon enough.)

My first post - lurking around this forum for the past 3 months or so has been extremely helpful :)

thanks for the input kjim5453. I tried all of that and discovered at the store yesterday that the DVI is just not working period. It looks like Brian's threads on this point to the real problem (thanks for the tip :D )... the DVI input fails and InFocus only tests with a signal generator when you RMA.

If they would just bother to actually test with a real-world signal they would find the problem. It seems their testing procedures are bad.

Anyway...I'll let you know what they say Monday after I call them. I did respond to the email they finally sent last night where they said they did not find anything wrong ( :mad: ) but did replace the colorwheel (???).

Ahh ok right I should have said 480i there. That being the case, any advice on if I should be concerned about using the Xbox DVD player over one included in a HTIB (such as the entry level onkyo one, which would be my other option).

Basically if the DVD player is not an issue I've already decided on the Yamaha yht-160, so I'm not really looking for any advice on the specific HTIB models beyond if I should be worried about DVD player quality.

Actually looks like the Xbox360 will only output at 480p when using the dvd player with my current settings. Seems to answer my question, as this won't use the processor right?

Can I buy a really cheap (like 30-50) dollar dvd player or should I get a different HTIB with an integrated DVD player?


I have my Onkyo HTIB outputting 480i to the 4805 and the picture is stunning.

HTPC - Oppo - Momitsu V880DX feeding the 4805
how do they compare? What do i see
right now i have 4 machines for playing back movies on the 4805 which projects onto a DaLite HCCV 80x45 PermWall

an older JVC XV-D723 using 480i Component looks good but is soft compared to DVI output from the other players

the HTPC is an Intel 1.6gig Pentium dedicated 4yr old unit i built originally for an Infocus LP350 i wanted to go DVI and back in Jan 2002 the only STB DVD players outputing DVI were $2000+
Win2000 -> WinDVD6 -> PowerStrip (848x480@47.952hz) -> ATI7500AIW -> DVI -> SP4805
in the beginning i used PowerStrip (848x480@60hz) then as the ATI drivers progressed i dropped PowerStrip and just used 848x480@60hz directly from ATI driver resolutions.. Later i went back with PowerStrip to try 48hz (47.952) and get rid of 3:2 pull-down, this change from 60->48hz vertical refresh yielded a sharper and cleaner image (movies are 24fps played back 48fps in theaters)

PQ wise the HTPC has always been a stellar preformer. I can only remember 1-Blue screen in 4yrs. But then that's all this machine does....play movies. There is NO other software (word processors, games, etc) on that box, it's sole purpose it for MOVIES/CONCERTS. NO internet connection...so NO antiVirus/AdWare/FireWall programs to foul things up....I use DaGamePimps settings in PowerStrip, AVIA shows iam at about Default settings 50/50 on everything, FILM gamma during NIGHT showings, VIDEO gamma because of AfterNoon Sun leakage, and Final adjustments for the MOVIE showing are done with WinDVDs excellent Picture controls....
YES not all movies are created equal....

OK...i been happy for quite awhile now, but i have always hankered for a simple STB DVD player that outputs DVI. Tried various machines as they came out....Samsung, Denon 1910, but their PQ couldn't touch the HTPC. Lately ive been reading about OPPO -- and someone said the OPPO was just as good as an HTPC -- without all the hassles of the BRAVO/MOMITSU loader problems.
soooo OK i'll bite

OPPO DV971H came early Dec05.... directly from mfg with latest FirmWare and older Remote. I eMailed TechSupport complaining about getting the older Remote....could i please have the NEWer 1 since i read it had lighted buttons, and 2 minutes later i got an eMail-Reply "New Remote is shipping to you today" (really 2 minutes----that is the fastest Support i ever got).

Now the OPPO is outputing 480p via DVI, and that's how the 4805 sees it. I have the OPPO in Wide, and the 4805 in 16:9-- this isn't 1:1 pixel matching like the HTPC. IF you put the 4805 on NATIVE the picture is cropped and appears to have a resolution of about 640x360 (got that from measurements and interpolation off my screen) which is a 16:9 aspect ratio. So you need to put the 4805 into 16:9 and it will Scale again almost filling up the SP4805 854x480 native resolution. This still leaves a couple lines of Pixels unUsed with the 4805, u could Check OVERSCAN w/4805 and it will fill out completely---But that means U are now SCALING 3 TIMES. a word about scaling. DVDs come 720x480 (DVD pixels are NOT square). Depending on how u set the output the DVD player scales for your intended Display. Then the Infocus scales (because of 16:9 setting), and if you check OVERSCAN it scales again. Everytime u scale the PQ gets SOFTER. For that reason iam not checking OVERSCAN, instead i just ZOOM the 4805 lens to fill out the screen. (on the HTPC i only had 848x480 anyway)

Well the OPPO is quite GOOD.....it's 1 notch under my HTPC, and if i had never seen a 1:1 pixel match from the HTPC i would be VERY happy with the OPPO. Also the OPPO is a marvolous bit of machinery, it opperates perfectly, LOOKS good, and SOUNDS better than the CMI8738 digital sound chip in my HTPC. All sound is being sent Digital Output through a 25ft coaxial cable to my Sony STR-DA777ES receiver which does the 5.1 DOLBY/DTS decoding. I really notice the SOUND differences while watching Concert DVDs-- Movies not so much. Infact i sometimes used to watch Concerts with the JVC DVD player because it also has a better sound.

I decided to order a MOMITSU V880DX (second generation) player because the BRAVO/MOMITSU/SNAZIO players will act like a HTPC and let you send a CUSTOM DVI signal similar to PowerStrip's abilities-- this means 1:1 pixel matching or back to scaling perfectly the FIRST TIME. Iam currently sending 854x480@47.95hz to the 4805 which while set NATIVE sees the DVI output exactly as sent.

the PQ -- Sharpness, Color, 3D like image is just OUTSTANDING....very much like watching HD (my experience anyway). Watching scenes from the SuperBit version of FIFTH ELEMENT and the characters just JUMP out at you. LeeLoo has never looked better. Up close facial features of the Technicians and Brion James in the room during RE-CONSTRUCTION just leap off my screen, the detail is pheonominal. The better the DVD the better it looks. Average DVDs look good, but the differences show up on NEWer releases (they are getting better). the ROCK has some good close-ups in Chapter-13 of Sean Connery-John Spencer-Michael Biehn faces. I go back and forth with the OPPO-MOMITSU players, PQ wise there is NO contest-- MOMITSU hands down (im hooked), even looks better than my HTPC (but other HTPCs using newer VIDEO cards like GeForce-6600GT chiptypes with different codecs and more eXotic add-ons probably out class my HTPC setup)

i set the 4805 to NATIVE and Bob Williams RBG #s for Video based DVI == 58/28.5
I set up the MOMITSU Custom-DVI by using several spec generators....my current favorite is:

CR4V880 (http://rennfast.dns2go.com/Public/Momitsu%20DVD/Custom%20settings/cr4v880.zip)

which if you give it the Horizonal and Vertical PIXELS along with Vertical Refresh== 854x480@47.952hz will generate the rest of the #s:


HorizFreq----23688-----VertFreq------4795
VideoWith-----0854-----VideoHeight---0480
HSyncTotal----1110-----PreHSync------0044
HSyncActive---0128-----PostHSync-----0084
VSyncTotal----0494-----PreVSync------0001
VSyncActive---0003-----PostVSync-----0010
HSyncPol------0000-----VSyncPol------0000

On the Negative side....my Loader Tray-Door sticks 1 out of 6 times, the Remote is thin with those Snap like buttons (cheap i hate it) Remote Control is much slower than the OPPO, and Movies HANG here and there (not always....but it should be PERFECT like the OPPO-- most distressing i am not used to any Movie interruptions other than Planned Intermissions). And when playing back Concerts (mostly VIDEO based) u need to Re-Enter CUSTOM-DVI #s for 854x480@59.940hz (a real drag since there is only 1-Custom DVI bank) or change the unit over -> 480p (much easier) but u don't get the 1:1 Pixel match. And the SOUND is not as good as the OPPO, maybe not even a match for my HTPC based CMI8738.

So there U have it-- either way it's kinda like getting only 1/2 your dessert.

i have already ordered a new Lite-On loader and iam considering Tweaking the GUTS of the MOMITSU......not what i barganed for--- but maybe a new adventure.

The Ultimate Momitsu 880 Modifications (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=619493)

Rainbow effect will be the same between both projectors, for the most part. I saw them at the beginning and now I don't even notice them anymore. If I do see them, it's because I'm trying to. If they really bother your, go with an LCD projector.


you touched on the problem, i was starting to see rbe somewhat less fairly regularly and i have read of others that said they really started to see it less and less also

since the 480 class machines are so much less than the 720 class i guess it comes down to the equation: how much do rainbows cost ? :p

thanks

Is it possible to have the project to the side of the desired image. In other words can the project be not straight in front of the screen but to left or right, or off center.

Ward216 & scooterboy -

I'll be updating my ratio knowledge here shortly, as well as the DVB-318 threads which I haven't checked in a long time. A while back, I guess I just got a little lazy and started enjoying movies instead of 'fiddling' (smile). The quality time with my wife has paid off nicely, though !

- Daniel

Is it possible to have the project to the side of the desired image. In other words can the project be not straight in front of the screen but to left or right, or off center.
this is called horizontal lens shift and i don't think the 4805 can do this

HTPC - Oppo - Momitsu V880DX feeding the 4805
how do they compare?Excellent post.

which if you give it the Horizonal and Vertical PIXELS along with Vertical Refresh== 854x480@47.952hz will generate the rest of the #s:


HorizFreq----23688-----VertFreq------4795
VideoWith-----0854-----VideoHeight---0480
HSyncTotal----1030-----PreHSync------0008
HSyncActive---0080-----PostHSync-----0088
VSyncTotal----0494-----PreVSync------0001
VSyncActive---0003-----PostVSync-----0010
HSyncPol------0000-----VSyncPol------0000



WOW! Thanks! This is exactly what I needed! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!

A couple questions:

I'm moving to a constant height setup, so I'll for 2.35 AR I'll need to run 4805 in Letterbox mode, meaning (I think) image will no longer be 1:1 pixel mapped. I assume picture will still be better, since the source is better/cleaner. Am I wrong?

Is there a way to have the player stretch the image first, then send it pixel mapped to the PJ (I doubt it, but I had to ask)

Is the manual supplied with player better than the online manual (I haven't recceived my 880 yet)? The online manual seems pretty "bare bones".

Anyway, THANK YOU for the custom res settings!

TC

Doesn't the D1 have custom resolutions that allow for 854x480 as well?

mboy

I believe the D1 and D2 can pixel-map to 852x480. Cavu is the Bravo expert around here, so you might want to wait till he confirms.

Says a whole lot that the man himself (ole Bob) uses this player!

Yes Cavu is the man. King of all D1's.

I know the true native is 854x480 and 852x480 is close, but if it can get to 854 for true native, why not try.

I really did not have much budget for 1, but I found a d1 shipped (porbasbly needsd loader swap and Cavu would say (rightfully-so) a power board fix, for $50 shipped, so I am going to give it a shot.

1 question on D1.
I know Film is supposed to be outstanding 1:1 thru it and video just so-so. What about DVD like the Inceredibles which looked already real good tonight on my Sony ns775 480i to 4805 via components.
Any increase of pq on that type of material?

Doesn't the D1 have custom resolutions that allow for 854x480 as well?Yes. The custom resolution options on the D1 and the Momitsu are exactly the same.

Bravo pre-programmed the default 852x480 1:1 pixel map DVI output on their units to match with the first Gateway plasma display which had a native resolution of 852x480.

The 854x480 parameters provided by Mouw should work fine on the Bravo D1/D2.

I wanted to get an opinon on the dvi m1 cable that monoprice sells. Monoprice has their cables at 25ft and 50ft. I needed one that is at least 30ft. Do you think the 50ft cable would have any signal losses?

Yes. The custom resolution options on the D1 and the Momitsu are exactly the same.

Bravo pre-programmed the default 852x480 1:1 pixel map DVI output on their units to match with the first Gateway plasma display which had a native resolution of 852x480.

The 854x480 parameters provided by Mouw should work fine on the Bravo D1/D2.


Is their a noticeable improvement with 854 vs 852 or is it negligible?

I wanted to get an opinon on the dvi m1 cable that monoprice sells. Monoprice has their cables at 25ft and 50ft. I needed one that is at least 30ft. Do you think the 50ft cable would have any signal losses?


I have their 50 ft cable and it worked great. The cable is very thick and quality looks good.

Thanks, are you using the same ones from walmart?

I don't usually put my lense cap on... maybe I should start making it a habbit. Hopefully my ND2 filter will help the dust on lense problem.

Yes, I bought them in the Optical shop at my local Walmart.

HTPC - Oppo - Momitsu V880DX feeding the 4805
how do they compare? What do i see

Excellent post Mouw. Would make a nice addition to the FAQ section on player selection.....

I got a 4805 as an early X-Max present back in late November. I noticed that when a huge explosion or such occurs in a movie and the screen would be nearly completely white, that the projector would reset saying it was "acquiring signal" or whatever. I figured it was a problem with the 480p out on my cheap DVD player...

However, I hooked up an XBox to it the other day and it is doing the same thing. The "Hoth" map on Star Wars Battlefront is nearly un-playable (because of all the snow... lots of white landscapes).

Is this a product defect? Should I exchange my 4805? (I believe I got about another week to do so @ CC).

Are you calibrated? Perhaps your whites are too hot. I don't recall any posts mentioning this problem.

Are you calibrated? Perhaps your whites are too hot. I don't recall any posts mentioning this problem.

It is completely default settings. The only thing I tried was updating the firmware to the latest (which didn't fix the issue).

I would adjsut the synch setting up and down to see if that helps.
May take some trial and error.

I started suspecting my cheap component cable from mono... So I got the XBox to a place on Hoth where the screen was wanky. THen I hooked it directy to the PJ, and the image was fine! But to make double sure I put in the Ghost In the Shell DVD into my DVD player and got to a scene where the screen goes white (and the PJ loses the image), but it worked fine with the cheap cable. All that leaves is my receiver (which I'm using to switch audio/video sources). Sure enough, if I put the receiver between the DVD player and the PJ, a pure white screen causes the PJ to lose sync, and same with the XBox.

So now I'm going to contact Onkyo and see if they are willing to work through this with me. Thanks for all the suggestions all!

Good luck Rick.

I'm moving to a constant height setup, so I'll for 2.35 AR I'll need to run 4805 in Letterbox mode, meaning (I think) image will no longer be 1:1 pixel mapped. I assume picture will still be better, since the source is better/cleaner. Am I wrong?

Is there a way to have the player stretch the image first, then send it pixel mapped to the PJ

Is the manual supplied with player better than the online manual (I haven't recceived my 880 yet)? The online manual seems pretty "bare bones".
1:1 pixel map== scaled 1-time for intended Display resolution (my interpretation)

your 2:35AR setup Momitsu will first Squeeze Anamorphic image to correct AR then Scale-> 854x480 (has black bars)
Now u set 4805 in LetterBox so it ReScales image back to FULL Height (no black bars)
Anamorphic Lens then Scales again either Squeezing Vertical/Stretching Horizontal (3rd Scale)

another solution would be HTPC w/TheaterTek DVD player software (supposed to do custom ARs)
or DVDO iScan HD scaler that will correctly AR image (WillyGib uses this)
the above would eliminate 2nd Scale----but either way Anamorphic Lens - reScales

Supplied manual cover says DVD-V880 DX (and shows correct remote)
Carton only says V880 but also says HD-DiVX
Unit model says V880 -- but f1nels states "serial number starts with MT93A*** it is a DX model"

PS----i toyed with the idea of 2.35 CH setup since iam moving.....
but realized i would lose 30% lumens / possible SDE / softer PQ / at a cost of $1800+
iam going larger screen (92x52) with Horizonal masking (600 movies 50%=2.35)
i think i would need a Higher Resolution PJ before trying 112x48 screen

I don't think the anamorphic lense counts as a scaler because it does it on a physical level and so doesn't really effect picture quality...

Is their a noticeable improvement with 854 vs 852 or is it negligible?Well ... it's two pixels wider - one on each side!! ;)

And, again, the 48Hz refresh rate setup in those parameters favours films. But it's very easy to switch between formats.

I thought you guys might get a kick out of this:

The WAF fought me every step of the way over the HT. She thought PJs were "stupid." She wanted to spend the money on other things like expensive paintings around the house. She thought surround sound was a "waste of money" and didn't want speakers "hanging around all over the place." I thought we would divorce over me painting all the walls hunter green, then calibrating the PJ with the cool blue filters.

BUT, tonight, all that changed. I wanted to play around with some different Nvidia drivers and powerstrip, but am not allowed to touch the PJ. She is watching The Bachelor in 92" of 4805 glory, with the damn sound blasting out of the surround speakers. Yup, wine in hand, dogs laid out on the couch, heating blanket spread out - and it is a two hour "special."

I asked her what happened to her thinking this was all "stupid?"

I got the finger.

I got the finger.

She was telling you that you're #1 right!!! ;) :D

Well ... it's two pixels wider - one on each side!! ;)

And, again, the 48Hz refresh rate setup in those parameters favours films. But it's very easy to switch between formats.


Was thinking of using the D1 for film and my Sony ns775 @ 480i for video.

Would a Movie like Monsters Inc or Incredibles be considered film or video for this purpose?
If the D1` looks as good as the Sony in Video using the 480p signal, then I wil use that.
Guess I will have some testing to do once I get it set up.

I thought you guys might get a kick out of this:

The WAF fought me every step of the way over the HT. She thought PJs were "stupid." She wanted to spend the money on other things like expensive paintings around the house. She thought surround sound was a "waste of money" and didn't want speakers "hanging around all over the place." I thought we would divorce over me painting all the walls hunter green, then calibrating the PJ with the cool blue filters.

BUT, tonight, all that changed. I wanted to play around with some different Nvidia drivers and powerstrip, but am not allowed to touch the PJ. She is watching The Bachelor in 92" of 4805 glory, with the damn sound blasting out of the surround speakers. Yup, wine in hand, dogs laid out on the couch, heating blanket spread out - and it is a two hour "special."

I asked her what happened to her thinking this was all "stupid?"

I got the finger.

Mine is more indifferent to it and was always like "whatever".

I heard her telling her friends about it tho ( well, she admitted to telling her friends about it) and how cool it was :-)

I was always into the Audio end and have a nice setup for that, but only had a 32" 4:3 HDTV.
Wife and son went to one of her friend's houses few months ago and I heard my son say, they had a BIG TV (55" RP in a tiny room).-

Me no like that!

Now he gets to say he was a big 92" TV :-)

Their really is nothing like watching CSI, 24 or a good DVD 12' back on a 92" Screen with 7 Surround speakers and a Sub capable of 13-14hz in room respsonse +/- 3db :-)
In an Apt no less ;)

I thought you guys might get a kick out of this:

The WAF fought me every step of the way over the HT. She thought PJs were "stupid." She wanted to spend the money on other things like expensive paintings around the house. She thought surround sound was a "waste of money" and didn't want speakers "hanging around all over the place." I thought we would divorce over me painting all the walls hunter green, then calibrating the PJ with the cool blue filters.

BUT, tonight, all that changed. I wanted to play around with some different Nvidia drivers and powerstrip, but am not allowed to touch the PJ. She is watching The Bachelor in 92" of 4805 glory, with the damn sound blasting out of the surround speakers. Yup, wine in hand, dogs laid out on the couch, heating blanket spread out - and it is a two hour "special."

I asked her what happened to her thinking this was all "stupid?"

I got the finger.

Unfortunately, most women like "chick flicks", which do not typically feature any breathtaking special effects or thundering sounds. I think many men would do well to find a film that their lady likes, find the best part of that show and present it to them on the new equipment to ease them into it. Maybe something with Brad Pitt. (Us men can watch Angelina Jolie on it later.) :cool:
I've never understood why a woman will hang a painting of the ugliest flowers/other peoples' kids/whatever on her walls, but not a plasma TV or a PJ screen. Hell, run a damn constant image of the putrid flowers through the DVD player and onto the screen when you're not watching and pretend it's the clearest painting you've ever seen. :D

Was thinking of using the D1 for film and my Sony ns775 @ 480i for video.

Would a Movie like Monsters Inc or Incredibles be considered film or video for this purpose?
If the D1` looks as good as the Sony in Video using the 480p signal, then I wil use that.
Guess I will have some testing to do once I get it set up.

Those would be film. Video is basically for TV shows on DVD, and I believe some Anime stuff is video.

Pixar is definitely film. Lost DVDs, or House on DVD, or Friends DVDs - those are all video.

If the D1 is inferior with video - you will know. Only 480i for me is good for video - neither my Toshiba (Zoran Vaddis V de-interlacer) nor my Phillips DVP 642 in 480p could do video - jaggies all over the place.

Anyone notice a bit of "de-focus" in the lower left of the screen? Not so much in the SDE but "runny pixels" ??? (only noticable when you walk up to it)

-W

Anyone notice a bit of "de-focus" in the lower left of the screen? Not so much in the SDE but "runny pixels" ??? (only noticable when you walk up to it)

-W

I get that along my entire right side, it's as if the left side and right side are a few inches different in focus. From normal seating distance it's not visible though so I am not worrying about it for now.

Anyone notice a bit of "de-focus" in the lower left of the screen? Not so much in the SDE but "runny pixels" ??? (only noticable when you walk up to it)

-W
The walls in a home are notorious for being not true. so if your screen is on a wall and say there is a 1/4 " difference in the distance to the center of the PJ from one side of the screen to the other, I would think that you might see a slight difference in focus. Like both of you said you can't see it from where you sit to watch so... enjoy.

Im going to try to wall mount my PJ today. I noticed that when I lift my PJ to the rough position of where it will sit above my couch, the image seems to need alot of keystoning. Is that possibly due to the angle Im holdling it? Should I mount the PJ on the bottom of the shelf to reduce screen offset? Can anyone who has wallmounted their PJ give me some advice?

thanks

Hey Everybody, I have a problem. I have rolling bars and cant seem to get rid of them.
I have tried everything. It only seems to come thru on HD programming and my Xbox360. I thought it was my cable so I disconnected it, still there. I bought one of that inline cable suppresser, still there. I thought my component cables were to close to a power cable. I have awesome Belden cables from Blue jeans and I disconnected them, still there! I hooked my 360 directly to the 4805 and on 720p and 1080i, still there. I tried the 3-prong adapter on the 4805, still there. I took my light dimmer out and put in a normal switch, STILL THERE! I am ready to pull my hair out.

Im going to try to wall mount my PJ today. I noticed that when I lift my PJ to the rough position of where it will sit above my couch, the image seems to need alot of keystoning. Is that possibly due to the angle Im holdling it? Should I mount the PJ on the bottom of the shelf to reduce screen offset? Can anyone who has wallmounted their PJ give me some advice?

thanks

How far up the wall are you looking to mount it? I would think if you are looking to place it between 7' and 8' that mounting it upside down on the bottom of the shelf would be the way to go. Mine is mounted on an old tv stand. I have a run of duct work that crosses the room and it is mounted to the side of it. that puts it about 7.5' of the floor and it is level this puts the image about 30" of the floor on the wall mounted screen. I donot keystone the image, my screen is 49"X87" 100"dia and the projector is 14.5' from the screen.

Projector mount (http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e294/ensign1963/KDFPictures002.jpg)
Screen (http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e294/ensign1963/KDFPictures001.jpg)

Hey Everybody, I have a problem. I have rolling bars and cant seem to get rid of them.
I have tried everything. It only seems to come thru on HD programming and my Xbox360. I thought it was my cable so I disconnected it, still there. I bought one of that inline cable suppresser, still there. I thought my component cables were to close to a power cable. I have awesome Belden cables from Blue jeans and I disconnected them, still there! I hooked my 360 directly to the 4805 and on 720p and 1080i, still there. I tried the 3-prong adapter on the 4805, still there. I took my light dimmer out and put in a normal switch, STILL THERE! I am ready to pull my hair out.

I had a vicious time with that too... mine turned out to be my cable though.

Are you seeing what looks like 2 or 3 bars of different widths slowly rolling up the screen or what looks like dozens of small bars quickly rolling down?

If it happens when only your xbox 360 is connected to the pj then that is really weird... try pluggin the 360 and the pj into the same strip and make sure your ground is good?

Make sure everything else is unplugged from the pj while testing.

I had a vicious time with that too... mine turned out to be my cable though.

Are you seeing what looks like 2 or 3 bars of different widths slowly rolling up the screen or what looks like dozens of small bars quickly rolling down?

If it happens when only your xbox 360 is connected to the pj then that is really weird... try pluggin the 360 and the pj into the same strip and make sure your ground is good?

Make sure everything else is unplugged from the pj while testing.


Its a bunch of small rolling bars. I had read that the 4805 needs warming up but I find this hard to belive that it has something to do with the bars.

looks like Ive got to go to home depot to get some more mounting material

If there is any question that the 4805 can except a 1080p signal I can confirm it can I am running 1080p to it from my Focus Enhancements CS-HD into the component connection.

If there is any question that the 4805 can except a 1080p signal I can confirm it can I am running 1080p to it from my Focus Enhancements CS-HD into the component connection.

Cool. How does it look? :)

Hey Everybody, I have a problem. I have rolling bars and cant seem to get rid of them.
I have tried everything. It only seems to come thru on HD programming and my Xbox360. I thought it was my cable so I disconnected it, still there. I bought one of that inline cable suppresser, still there. I thought my component cables were to close to a power cable. I have awesome Belden cables from Blue jeans and I disconnected them, still there! I hooked my 360 directly to the 4805 and on 720p and 1080i, still there. I tried the 3-prong adapter on the 4805, still there. I took my light dimmer out and put in a normal switch, STILL THERE! I am ready to pull my hair out.
I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM!... ops sorry for the caps, it`s good to see i`m not alone.

I had this on xbox already... on 720P and 1080 Scrolling lines... it`s not Ground Loop... i already test it that... so i don`t know what it can be.

What i did was connect my PC via VGA cable and set it to 720P and it looks good. But the xbox and xbox 360 does that.. on 480P works great but on 720P or 1080i does the scrolling.

Any more ideas?

PS, i was thinking, it could be a Projector fault?... some problem with HD on Component source? (since VGA worked fine via PC connection). Could this be posible?

Its a bunch of small rolling bars. I had read that the 4805 needs warming up but I find this hard to belive that it has something to do with the bars.
did you tried other than the xbox360 on the projector? other HD source i mean?

I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM!... ops sorry for the caps, it`s good to see i`m not alone.

I had this on xbox already... on 720P and 1080 Scrolling lines... it`s not Ground Loop... i already test it that... so i don`t know what it can be.

What i did was connect my PC via VGA cable and set it to 720P and it looks good. But the xbox and xbox 360 does that.. on 480P works great but on 720P or 1080i does the scrolling.

Any more ideas?

Could it be that the 4805 is a 480P projector and the unit does not know what to do with the extra resolution? Probably a stupid question but I had to throw it out there.

Newbie question...Does using the overscan button on the remote seem to make the picture not as sharp. How many people overscan their picture and why would you need to do it.

Ja Phule,


I haven't had enough time to give it a fair test. I hooked it up just to see if it would except the signal. I have basic satellite and a X-box hooked up through it now and I think it looks best at 720p but i want to get a solid dvd player like a RP-91 or RP-56 to try it hooked up to the interlaced component input and the progressive component input before I determine what I think.

Could it be that the 4805 is a 480P projector and the unit does not know what to do with the extra resolution? Probably a stupid question but I had to throw it out there.
lol, no i don`t think that is.... i`m certain it has to do with some kind of Interference.. or maybe the Projector is Faulty... i don`t know.. but that is why i have to check with some of the members if can be the COmponent input to be faulty for HD source and the VGA is working...

Could it be that the 4805 is a 480P projector and the unit does not know what to do with the extra resolution? Probably a stupid question but I had to throw it out there.

No rolling bars in my setup at various resolutions. So it's not because of the 480p resolution of the 4805.

I believe the steps for curing ground loops are something like this after the various discussions that I've read here on AVS:
Try different cable
Try 3prong to 2prong adapter
Try connecting equipment to same outlet
Try disconnecting cable tv

And if all else fails, it seems to be an issue with the outside ground at your house where you will need an electrician of some sort to come and fix.

Newbie question...Does using the overscan button on the remote seem to make the picture not as sharp. How many people overscan their picture and why would you need to do it.

Overscan does do a small bit of scaling, so it does make the picture not as sharp due to the extra scaling. Not too noticeable when watching video, but if you pixel map your pc, you can see the difference on text.

Sometimes when watching sdtv, there may be extra information above (or even below) the picture, most tvs have overscan that will cover this up. Some people find this annoying on a projector that has no overscan, so overscan option will get rid of this.

No rolling bars in my setup at various resolutions. So it's not because of the 480p resolution of the 4805.

I believe the steps for curing ground loops are something like this after the various discussions that I've read here on AVS:
Try different cable
Try 3prong to 2prong adapter
Try connecting equipment to same outlet
Try disconnecting cable tv

And if all else fails, it seems to be an issue with the outside ground at your house where you will need an electrician of some sort to come and fix.
ja phule,
How i can a Cable tv make a interference on the projector ? I`m asking this since i don`t have HDTV provider.... but i don`t see how the cable can affect the projector if is not connected to it. any idea?

From what i read Ground loop should happen on any Definition.. not only on HD source... i`m correct? at the same time i`dont have ground on the place i have the projector connected... so there is no way it can be a ground problem... i guess....

I`m leaving out of optinos :(

Overscan does do a small bit of scaling, so it does make the picture not as sharp due to the extra scaling. Not too noticeable when watching video, but if you pixel map your pc, you can see the difference on text.

Sometimes when watching sdtv, there may be extra information above (or even below) the picture, most tvs have overscan that will cover this up. Some people find this annoying on a projector that has no overscan, so overscan option will get rid of this.Thanks for the info.

ja phule,
How i can a Cable tv make a interference on the projector ? I`m asking this since i don`t have HDTV provider.... but i don`t see how the cable can affect the projector if is not connected to it. any idea?

From what i read Ground loop should happen on any Definition.. not only on HD source... i`m correct? at the same time i`dont have ground on the place i have the projector connected... so there is no way it can be a ground problem... i guess....

I`m leaving out of optinos :(

I'm not 100% sure about ground loops, since I myself haven't experienced one, but I've certainly read enough complaints and solutions. If cable tv is connected to any equipment that is somehow connected to the 4805, it could cause a ground loop (I think). If it's nowhere part of the 4805, then then that's not the cause.

I remember one user was getting rolling bars when he was using a cheap component switch for HD but not 480p. Removing the component switch fixed the problem. So it seems rolling bars will not always show up for all resolutions.

ja phule,
How i can a Cable tv make a interference on the projector ? I`m asking this since i don`t have HDTV provider.... but i don`t see how the cable can affect the projector if is not connected to it. any idea?

From what i read Ground loop should happen on any Definition.. not only on HD source... i`m correct? at the same time i`dont have ground on the place i have the projector connected... so there is no way it can be a ground problem... i guess....

I`m leaving out of optinos :(

I have no idea how it does it but it was my problem... I could have my cable box turned off, my stereo set to a different input and still get rolling bars. Unplug the cable from my wall and bars are gone.

I could sit there with something like a game menu screen up from my xbox, and touch the coax cable to the receptical on the wall and bars appear.

I do still suffer a different kind of rolling bars however these are more like a shimmering waterfall going downward and fast and I haven't isolated it so much yet.

So far when it happens from my xbox or something I can just turn off my reciever, turn it back on and the signal clears (signal is upscaled to component via my receiver). However with my cable box I can't do it because my reciever always puts through the signal from that regardless of whether it's on or off...

Is that possibly due to the angle Im holdling it?The projector has to be LEVEL, at 90 degrees to the screen.

I have no idea how it does it but it was my problem... I could have my cable box turned off, my stereo set to a different input and still get rolling bars. Unplug the cable from my wall and bars are gone.It has nothing to do with the cable "signal". It has everything to do with the fact that the ground side of the cable (the shield) is connected to your equipment. If lifting the cable connection solves your problem, the cable is not properly grounded where it enters your premises. There should the a copper strap (wire) connecting the cable ground (shield) to your building ground. This is likely done at a power panel or to a copper water pipe.

I have no idea how it does it but it was my problem... I could have my cable box turned off, my stereo set to a different input and still get rolling bars. Unplug the cable from my wall and bars are gone.

I could sit there with something like a game menu screen up from my xbox, and touch the coax cable to the receptical on the wall and bars appear.

I do still suffer a different kind of rolling bars however these are more like a shimmering waterfall going downward and fast and I haven't isolated it so much yet.

So far when it happens from my xbox or something I can just turn off my reciever, turn it back on and the signal clears (signal is upscaled to component via my receiver). However with my cable box I can't do it because my reciever always puts through the signal from that regardless of whether it's on or off...
Thanks for the reply,
on my case i rule the tv cable out, since i don`t have HD boradcast, my Cable tv is connected to my TV and this TV is connected to the power on the wall... it`s not sharing anything (only the electrical power on the house) with my projector so i guess it´s not it.

I don`t know what else to try :(

No rolling bars in my setup at various resolutions. So it's not because of the 480p resolution of the 4805.

I believe the steps for curing ground loops are something like this after the various discussions that I've read here on AVS:
Try different cable
Try 3prong to 2prong adapter
Try connecting equipment to same outlet
Try disconnecting cable tv

And if all else fails, it seems to be an issue with the outside ground at your house where you will need an electrician of some sort to come and fix.


various discussions that I've read here on AVS:
Try different cable - I have a high end belden 1505 with carne ends, I have disconnected them for the test. Lines still there.

Try 3prong to 2prong adapter - Done, Lines still there.

Try connecting equipment to same outlet - ran an extesion cord to my Belkin PureAV PF40 powercenter. Lines still there.

Try disconnecting cable tv - did this and unplugged the box, lines still there.

I have everything running thru my Onkyo 603x and then running to my 4805. I disconnected it all from the 4805 and hooked my 360 up directly to the 4805. Lines there on 720p and 1081i.


I have hooked a pioneer dvd player thru component 480i/480p and no lines.

It has nothing to do with the cable "signal". It has everything to do with the fact that the ground side of the cable (the shield) is connected to your equipment. If lifting the cable connection solves your problem, the cable is not properly grounded where it enters your premises. There should the a copper strap (wire) connecting the cable ground (shield) to your building ground. This is likely done at a power panel or to a copper water pipe.
Cavu.. could you explain it in more detial for me pls? since i`m from Argentina i don`t have the understanding of your explanation....

On my case, my Cable tv is a Sdtv, regular.. is connected outside my house, on the roof... and then it`s divided on 2.. one goes to my kitchen and the other to my room.

what i should to tro test if the cable tv is the problem? (how a cabletv looks when is grouned?). How i can grouned by myself to test this?

and if the TV is not connected to my projector could still creat a ground loop? even not having ground connected on my room?

various discussions that I've read here on AVS:
Try different cable - I have a high end belden 1505 with carne ends, I have disconnected them for the test. Lines still there.

Try 3prong to 2prong adapter - Done, Lines still there.

Try connecting equipment to same outlet - ran an extesion cord to my Belkin PureAV PF40 powercenter. Lines still there.

Try disconnecting cable tv - did this and unplugged the box, lines still there.

I have everything running thru my Onkyo 603x and then running to my 4805. I disconnected it all from the 4805 and hooked my 360 up directly to the 4805. Lines there on 720p and 1081i.


I have hooked a pioneer dvd player thru component 480i/480p and no lines.
Yeah, but did you try any other 720P or 1080I source on the projector?

coz on 480i or P the Projector never do this.. even with my Xbox... but on 720P and 1080i it does... what i want to see if the projector does this with all 720P 1080i signals or only with the xbox.

I did try my PC on 720P via VGA and it work fine... so i though this means the projector was ok... it was a interference problem.. but now i doubt again... since you have the same problem

it`s not sharing anything (only the electrical power on the house) with my projectorGround loops exist in the "electrical power of the house"!!

what i should to tro test if the cable tv is the problem?Disconnect the cable tv wire from all equipment and don't let the metal braid or the centre connector touch anything. If you still have rolling bars, it is not the cable ground. (how a cabletv looks when is grouned?). How i can grouned by myself to test this?The metal braid (shield) of the cable tv will be connected by a wire or a clamp to your metal electrical box or to a water pipe. This will be done near where the cable tv enters your house. Perhaps at the 2-way splitter. The easiest thing to do is ask your cable company to make sure your cable servoce is properly grounded. I don't want to offer advice which ends up with you getting electrocuted!! ;)if the TV is not connected to my projector could still creat a ground loop? even not having ground connected on my room?If it is connected to any piece of equipment that is connected to your video system it can introduce a ground loop.

Yeah, but did you try any other 720P or 1080I source on the projector?

coz on 480i or P the Projector never do this.. even with my Xbox... but on 720P and 1080i it does... what i want to see if the projector does this with all 720P 1080i signals or only with the xbox.

I did try my PC on 720P via VGA and it work fine... so i though this means the projector was ok... it was a interference problem.. but now i doubt again... since you have the same problem


I have hd cable and xbox360. I have tried them both and they both have lines.

various discussions that I've read here on AVS:
Try different cable - I have a high end belden 1505 with carne ends, I have disconnected them for the test. Lines still there.

Try 3prong to 2prong adapter - Done, Lines still there.

Try connecting equipment to same outlet - ran an extesion cord to my Belkin PureAV PF40 powercenter. Lines still there.

Try disconnecting cable tv - did this and unplugged the box, lines still there.

I have everything running thru my Onkyo 603x and then running to my 4805. I disconnected it all from the 4805 and hooked my 360 up directly to the 4805. Lines there on 720p and 1081i.


I have hooked a pioneer dvd player thru component 480i/480p and no lines.

Then I guess that leaves you with one other option. :)

And if all else fails, it seems to be an issue with the outside ground at your house where you will need an electrician of some sort to come and fix.

Then I guess that leaves you with one other option. :)


I dont think it has anything to do with the power. I am going to e-mail Infocus but I am going to try a different projector for a test.

Why not take it to a friends house and plug it in and shoot on the wall and see what you get.
That will save you shipping if its not the projector.
I'm sure someone would like to see how nice a picture the 4805 can produce :)

Why not take it to a friends house and plug it in and shoot on the wall and see what you get.
That will save you shipping if its not the projector.
I'm sure someone would like to see how nice a picture the 4805 can produce :)

Since my buddy has the same kinda setup as I do, I will try that.

I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM!... ops sorry for the caps, it`s good to see i`m not alone.

I had this on xbox already... on 720P and 1080 Scrolling lines... it`s not Ground Loop... i already test it that... so i don`t know what it can be.


You guys, too, eh? I don't have an Xbox 360, but I can confirm I also experience this with my Xbox sometimes at 720p (don't know about 1080i as I have it disabled on the Xbox.) Not all the time, but when it happens, it's definitely noticeable.

I also had a ground loop "humbars" problem caused by cable TV cable, which was solved with a Jensen Electronics isolator, and this is different from that issue. I've been calling it "ripples" because that's what they look like to me - much higher frequency noise than humbars.

At first I thought the pair of component video baluns (ETSLan product) I'm using with shielded CAT6 cable (50') might be the cause, but I also saw it using Monster THX-rated component video cables (ground loop humbar was also there with the Monster cable before switching to the baluns, but it was very slight.)

So far, I've not noticed it when viewing HD source from SA8300HD STB through component video.

You guys, too, eh? I don't have an Xbox 360, but I can confirm I also experience this with my Xbox sometimes at 720p (don't know about 1080i as I have it disabled on the Xbox.) Not all the time, but when it happens, it's definitely noticeable.

I also had a ground loop "humbars" problem caused by cable TV cable, which was solved with a Jensen Electronics isolator, and this is different from that issue. I've been calling it "ripples" because that's what they look like to me - much higher frequency noise than humbars.

At first I thought the pair of component video baluns (ETSLan product) I'm using with shielded CAT6 cable (50') might be the cause, but I also saw it using Monster THX-rated component video cables (ground loop humbar was also there with the Monster cable before switching to the baluns, but it was very slight.)

So far, I've not noticed it when viewing HD source from SA8300HD STB through component video.

Could these "ripples" be from the heat coming from the front vent of the 4805?

Could these "ripples" be from the heat coming from the front vent of the 4805?

I get that, too ;) And when I have the PJ ceiling mounted and the heater kicks in (vents are midway between PJ and the screen), you can put the PJ on white blank and watch the psychedelic heatwave show on the screen :)

No - these are essentially perfectly horizontal lines with must shorter period than the ground loop humbar (on my 92" screen, peak-to-peak seems to be about 1 inch or so.)

I'll see if I can notice it on HD channels now that my M1-DVI input's gone AWOL and the component video input is all I use.

Joe