I think these ripples are something I am experiencing too...

On my xbox I have certain screens (especially those with lots of thin horizontal lines) that it looks like water running down a corrugated surface (with corrugation running horizontally). very fast and almost pulsing.

I have found if I have the xbox on and turn off my reciever, then turn the reciever back on they go away...

However my HD Cable box does it also, and since when I turn off my reciver it just passes the component 1 through to componet it never resyncs that signal and so the bars persist.

I think these ripples are something I am experiencing too...

On my xbox I have certain screens (especially those with lots of thin horizontal lines) that it looks like water running down a corrugated surface (with corrugation running horizontally). very fast and almost pulsing.

I have found if I have the xbox on and turn off my reciever, then turn the reciever back on they go away...

However my HD Cable box does it also, and since when I turn off my reciver it just passes the component 1 through to componet it never resyncs that signal and so the bars persist.
Exactly, this is what i`m experience.. i did try disonecting the cable tv from all equipement and still there.. at first i was happy coz they werent`there.. switch from 720p to 1080i on my xbox over and over and nothing.. when i was almost to turn the projector of... they appear !!! :(

I can get rid of them if i switch from Resoltion to resolution... like i`m using 480P then i switch to 720p if the scrolls are there.. i switch back to 480p and then back to 720p again... sometimes they don`t show... and sometimes they do.. only on 720p and 1080i

I also notice that sometimes they show up even without switching resolutions... so i think is more a interference of any kind... the scrolling speed change as well... and the direction too... sometimes they are from top to bottom and others (rare but i saw them) they are from bottom to top.

However my HD Cable box does it also, and since when I turn off my reciver it just passes the component 1 through to componet it never resyncs that signal and so the bars persist.
Did you try hitting auto image on the remote ?

I asked her what happened to her thinking this was all "stupid?"

I got the finger.
:D :D :D Ironic, ain't it ?

Did you try hitting auto image on the remote ?

I can't speak for others, but I tried that - didn't help, though.

I'm using a 3x1 JVC passive component video switcher. I guess I can try direct connection between Xbox and 4805 this evening. I also have a crossover ethernet cable connected between my PowerBook and my, umm, perfectly factory original Xbox to feed media to the Xbox from external HDs connected via FireWire to the laptop. That can be a factor, too.

You know - I just realized how messy my whole system is... :D It's amazing I'm not seeing even more noise.

Joe

Exactly, this is what i`m experience.. i did try disonecting the cable tv from all equipement and still there.. at first i was happy coz they werent`there.. switch from 720p to 1080i on my xbox over and over and nothing.. when i was almost to turn the projector of... they appear !!! :(

I can get rid of them if i switch from Resoltion to resolution... like i`m using 480P then i switch to 720p if the scrolls are there.. i switch back to 480p and then back to 720p again... sometimes they don`t show... and sometimes they do.. only on 720p and 1080i

I also notice that sometimes they show up even without switching resolutions... so i think is more a interference of any kind... the scrolling speed change as well... and the direction too... sometimes they are from top to bottom and others (rare but i saw them) they are from bottom to top.

I am wondering if it has to do with syncing in the pj or possibly something with the downconverting as I don't recall it every happening at 480...

I have tried the auto image and I recall it did not solve this, however turning off the recieiver did, but I will look into it more...

I would like to get rid of this because it does bother me. No one else seems to notice but I find myself looking for it and finding it all too often. The stripey screens on xbox make it very evident but if there is a large bright patch on TV (such as sky) if I stare at it I can see a definite flicker and if I look to the side an duse my perifery I can see it happening as well. And no I can't just stop looking for it :)

I can't speak for others, but I tried that - didn't help, though.

I'm using a 3x1 JVC passive component video switcher. I guess I can try direct connection between Xbox and 4805 this evening. I also have a crossover ethernet cable connected between my PowerBook and my, umm, perfectly factory original Xbox to feed media to the Xbox from external HDs connected via FireWire to the laptop. That can be a factor, too.

You know - I just realized how messy my whole system is... :D It's amazing I'm not seeing even more noise.

Joe

You should see my system... due to space constraints:

Motorola HDTV cable box, Tivo DVD/DVR, Onkyo Reciever, HTPC, PS2 and Xbox are all squeezed into a 19 inch wide 30 inch tall rolling cart type deal... it's not particularly pretty but it gets the job done. I am not so happy with the rats nest of cables behind it but I can't figure out how to really do much about it...

BTW I am also using a passive switcher. It's an EBGAMEs component switcher that has 4 inputs, each with component, composite, audio and ethernet switching. I have not tried leaving it out of the loop but because I can remove the lines by powering on and off my reciever it wouldn't seem it's anything to do with it.

You should see my system... due to space constraints:

Motorola HDTV cable box, Tivo DVD/DVR, Onkyo Reciever, HTPC, PS2 and Xbox are all squeezed into a 19 inch wide 30 inch tall rolling cart type deal... it's not particularly pretty but it gets the job done. I am not so happy with the rats nest of cables behind it but I can't figure out how to really do much about it...

BTW I am also using a passive switcher. It's an EBGAMEs component switcher that has 4 inputs, each with component, composite, audio and ethernet switching. I have not tried leaving it out of the loop but because I can remove the lines by powering on and off my reciever it wouldn't seem it's anything to do with it.

Hehe. Man, my cables behind my system is quite a mess. I bought some tubing to help organize some of it but having to go back there, ain't going to be pretty. :)

I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM!... ops sorry for the caps, it`s good to see i`m not alone.

I had this on xbox already... on 720P and 1080 Scrolling lines... it`s not Ground Loop... i already test it that... so i don`t know what it can be.

What i did was connect my PC via VGA cable and set it to 720P and it looks good. But the xbox and xbox 360 does that.. on 480P works great but on 720P or 1080i does the scrolling.

Any more ideas?

PS, i was thinking, it could be a Projector fault?... some problem with HD on Component source? (since VGA worked fine via PC connection). Could this be posible?


For those that are having ground looping broblems the problems will most likely be the cable from your CATV. Like someone has already said, when the cable is install they do not install the copper ground wire going into your house. I suggest getting a surge protector made by Newpoint or any surge protector that has built-in EMI/RFI noise filtration to combat these problems. I use to have ground looping problems coming from my sub, it was making a constant hum. No more hum from the sub after I connected the Power Blocker 2. When I get the SP4805 this month I hope the problems don't show up and if it does I will be ready for it. Just plug your cable from the wall into the input into the Power Blocker and another cable from the output of the Power Blocker 2 into your cable box. I hope this was helpful for those having ground looping problems.

Fred

I am wondering if it has to do with syncing in the pj or possibly something with the downconverting as I don't recall it every happening at 480...

I have tried the auto image and I recall it did not solve this, however turning off the recieiver did, but I will look into it more...

I would like to get rid of this because it does bother me. No one else seems to notice but I find myself looking for it and finding it all too often. The stripey screens on xbox make it very evident but if there is a large bright patch on TV (such as sky) if I stare at it I can see a definite flicker and if I look to the side an duse my perifery I can see it happening as well. And no I can't just stop looking for it :)
i`m afraid it could be the projector... i hope not... but now, i`m thinking, i don`t think it have to do with syncing in the pj or possibly something with the downconverting since i tried VGA connection and it worked fine... 720P

I agree with you, i really need to fix this, i was hoping maybe the xbox360will not do this but now Z26 has the problem i`m 99% sure i`ll have it to.. and is anoying!!!!

If anything I think it might be an issue with the component inputs on the pj...

Got my Bravo D1 today. Set the custom 854 x480 @ 47.xx Hz.

Popped in FIfth Element superbit.

Def looked incredible. Then popped the DVD into my Sony ns755 @ 480i and while still looking good, you can tell ( I could, not sure if the wife could tell) it is def sharper.
Image is pretty amazing.
Def. have some quirks with the d1 tho.
Will be swapping the loader and replacing some caps.
2 of the caps have some gook underneath them.
The c1022 cap has black, thick gooky stuff (looks like cap is sitting in a puddle of it) and the 400v 47us one is sitting in a pool of brown muck.
Since I know very little about this (but have basic solder skills, I imagine the sticky gook is a sign of bad caps (which is leading to some of the quirky issues with the D1).
Anyway, plan to replace those, some cables and maybe a crystal when I look into it more.
Anyway, the image with the Bravo is noticeably better then a 480i or 480p signal from My Sony.
Pretty cool!

I imagine the sticky gook is a sign of bad caps
Leaking caps usually leaves a somewhat clear liquid that smell like dead fish if you heat it with a soldering iron. After time it may turm dark or greenish or "crusty". The black gook may be a glue used to stop harmonic vibrations at the high frequencies that power supplies run at. The tops usually bulge out on failure of these caps.

The glue, however has a tendancy to carbonize and cause leakage so changing the caps and cleaning won't hurt.

If anything I think it might be an issue with the component inputs on the pj...
You think i should sent it for Technical support?
i find odd that many peolpe are having this issue... but i find weird to be a projector fault.

I dont think it has anything to do with the power. I am going to e-mail Infocus but I am going to try a different projector for a test.
did you mailed to infocus? what did they say?

Let us know what happen when u tried on your buddys home.

Hehe. Man, my cables behind my system is quite a mess. I bought some tubing to help organize some of it but having to go back there, ain't going to be pretty. :)

I know this is Off Topic but it is wonderful hearing others with the Messy Wires problem. I like you Ja Phule, are going the route with tubing. I hope it will make it look somewhat more presentable. I have been trying to find a cheap A/V cabinet but all the ones that i see and like are rather expensive. So I went with 2 Black TV carts from Target that were on sale for $20.00 and stacked them. Now off to get some tubing that I seen at IKEA. This wiring thing is really ugly. I am using a 12 outlet 3ft. power strip I found at Fry's. I am looking to purchase all new A/V wires from MonoPrice to make it uniform looking. We shall see what happens.

Problem for me with tubing is that my main issue is too much wire, I have to coil it up to take up slack and you can't really tube that....

If anything I think it might be an issue with the component inputs on the pj...

I'm thinking the same.

It happened again last night about 10 minutes after powering up the gear. I was too lazy to try the direct Xbox to 4805 connection, so I just disconnected the cable and reconnected it. Ripples disappeared and the signal stayed noise free for the 90 min. or so I was using the Xbox. "Auto Image" never worked for me, but, at least for one evening, physically forcing the PJ to resync on that input seems to have done the trick.

Booker21: you mentioned you tried "switching resolutions" which I gather is changing signal types (480/720/1080) on the component video input but still have the problem? I would think that has the same effect as physically connecting/reconnecting the cable and force the PJ to resync, so last night's remedy is probably still just voodoo.

A bit off topic: RCA connector input assembly of 4805 seems way too flimsy if your cable's connectors are very tight-fitting like mine. I don't recommend frequent connect/disconnect at the 4805 end - looks like it's too easy to jiggle the assembly while trying to disconnect and risk loosening some pins off the PCB board solder points or something like that. One time, it seemed I was going to pull one of the plugs right off the chasis! Now I use baluns with shielded CAT6/RJ45, so it's easy for me to try frequently connect/disconnecting the cable without risking physical damage to the PJ.

Joe

did you mailed to infocus? what did they say?

Let us know what happen when u tried on your buddys home.


I cant do it tonight, I have lamaz class with my wife. I will try for this weekend.

I cant e-mail infocus because I dont have my serial number from my 4805 handy at work. If sombody is at home and has the same problem please contact infocus about this. Mabey we got a batch of bad imputs. What firmware are you guys using?

I cant e-mail infocus because I dont have my serial number from my 4805 handy at work. If sombody is at home and has the same problem please contact infocus about this. Mabey we got a batch of bad imputs. What firmware are you guys using?
Z26,
I emailed them today... i`ll post here their replay, but don`t hold your breath... i don`t think they will be able to give us a solution.

I think I saw this asked before but don't recall if there was an answer... does the 4805 have descrete remote codes for aspect ratio so I can jump back and forth between say native and 16:9 without cycling through all the others? Thanks!

Does the bottom of the image shift up and down when you zoom in and out?

Im going to try to wall mount my PJ today. I noticed that when I lift my PJ to the rough position of where it will sit above my couch, the image seems to need alot of keystoning. Is that possibly due to the angle Im holdling it? Should I mount the PJ on the bottom of the shelf to reduce screen offset? Can anyone who has wallmounted their PJ give me some advice?

thanks

I wall mounted mine this past week. I was going to mount it on the bottom of the shelf... but I ended up just putting some little rubber feet on the top of the unit and setting it on the shelf upside down. It's working great. & this way it's easier to adjust and I can move the unit if I want to.

I used three rubber pads... 2 in the back, 1 in the front (just like the bottom of the unit) and a small post-it note pad (about a inch square) under one of the back pads to level the unit.

Good Luck,
RD

Z26,
I emailed them today... i`ll post here their replay, but don`t hold your breath... i don`t think they will be able to give us a solution.

I will do the same when I get home.

ANYBODY ELSE WITH THE SAME PROBLEM, PLEASE TELL INFOCUS ABOUT IT!



LINKY, LINKY! (https://www.infocus.com/service/contact_support/request/details.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&)

BTW- if anyone has been considering getting a Pull down screen... Provantage just dropped their price yesterday on the Optoma GrayWolf 92" to (1/4 more of a hundred). I ordered one yesterday and it's already shipped w/ a tracking number. Should have it Friday.

I have Greywolf 92 I paid $112 shiped for a few weeks back. Very happy with it.
4805 is plenty bright ceiling mounted with it. I even use my ND2 filter.

Much better then the Dalite Spectra Vision I had before.

I will do the same when I get home.

ANYBODY ELSE WITH THE SAME PROBLEM, PLEASE TELL INFOCUS ABOUT IT!



LINKY, LINKY! (https://www.infocus.com/service/contact_support/request/details.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&)
yes please, let them know about this issue..

You guys still talking about the ground loop problem? I don't think there is much Infocus can do to fix your ground loop.

A Ground Loop Isolator may also do the trick. Infocus recommends Extron's GLI 250.
http://www.infocus.com/service/tech_library/techdocs/glossary.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&cat=g

Article about Ground Loops
http://www.cinemasource.com/articles/gnd_loop.pdf

[QUOTE=Ja Phule]You guys still talking about the ground loop problem? I don't think there is much Infocus can do to fix your ground loop.

A Ground Loop Isolator may also do the trick. Infocus recommends Extron's GLI 250.
http://www.infocus.com/service/tech_library/techdocs/glossary.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&cat=g


This cost $1279.00. I paid $799 for the 4805 new, not a refurb. I dont think this is an option.


The reason I dont think its a ground loop is that I have a high end Belkin power center that everything is pluged into. Even the rg6 cable coming from the outside.

I'm sure the power center can help stop a ground loop, but from the looks of it, it doesn't solve your ground loop.

As I linked above, there are a few ways to fix a ground loop. Another option is an isolation transformer such as the tripplite is250 mentioned in the pdf of my previous post (which is under $100).

I have a Tripplite Isobar 500 it's hospital grade, does not solve my problem. (note referring to fast waterfall type rolling bars problem)

Also the fact that turning my reciever off then on points to it being a signal issue as that doesn't change the ground situation.

I have a Tripplite Isobar 500 it's hospital grade, does not solve my problem. (note referring to fast waterfall type rolling bars problem)

Also the fact that turning my reciever off then on points to it being a signal issue as that doesn't change the ground situation.
Have you tried just plugging your DVD player and the 4805 into the Tripplite ?

It very well could be a problem in your receiver.

New 4805 owner here. Was looking at the Infocus 5000 deal at Costco, then decided on the 4805 instead after reading the 4805 FAQ, this monster thread and it's predeccessor and discussing with some 4800 and 4805 owners at work. Bought a refurb from Infocus just before the holidays (with the 76" screen deal). Arrived just before family showed up, after some issues with a cheap VCR/DVD player (solved by hitting a before-christmas sale at the local BB :) ) we had great fun playing movies on the screen (my kids and their friends thought it was cool but too small) and onto the wall (everyone was impressed). I switched to a ceiling mount a week or so ago. Much better.

Next steps are deciding on a better screen set-up (checking the DIY screen section) - thinking about just painting the wall, a DIY with blackout cloth, and maybe later upgrading to a fixed-mount factory screen. And better audio than 2 self-powered speakers from a PC! Location is a windowless basement, so light control is simple. Screen size is likely going to be something in the 90"-100" diag. range.

Infocus was great. Only problem was the refurb shipped without a remote - apparently they had a lot of those go out in mid-late December. The 1st one they shipped me was lost by UPS. 2nd arrived last week and it's made using the ceiling mount MUCH easier!

And we're still getting over the "WOW!" factor :D

Stuck it on yesterday and first impression was quite pleased. It significantly reduced the greyness of the black borders during anamorphic movies and did seem to help the contrast of the colors.

However it's not quite the improvement I was expecting. Along with the darker blacks come darker whites... Of course it was to be expected but I really do wish there was some kind of way to dim just dim colors while letting bright colors through unphased.

For regular TV watching I am not so hot on the lense. As long as it's semi dark it's not bad at all but it does hurt the picture during daytime viewing. For movies I find it does make everything look more like a movie theater and I understand what everyone was talking about with too bright now.

I think I will get used to it more over time and it certainly isn't all pluses but for $35 I think it will make my movie watching better (if for nothing else but to hide the black bars around non 16:9 content) but really wish there was a way to make the black blacker without hurting the whites...

I think I will get used to it more over time and it certainly isn't all pluses but for $35 I think it will make my movie watching better (if for nothing else but to hide the black bars around non 16:9 content) but really wish there was a way to make the black blacker without hurting the whites...
Get a SilverStar :D

Call infocus. They should ship you a remote if you did not get one.
remote is included in the refurb deal.
New 4805 owner here. Was looking at the Infocus 5000 deal at Costco, then decided on the 4805 instead after reading the 4805 FAQ, this monster thread and it's predeccessor and discussing with some 4800 and 4805 owners at work. Bought a refurb from Infocus just before the holidays (with the 76" screen deal). Arrived just before family showed up, after some issues with a cheap VCR/DVD player (solved by hitting a before-christmas sale at the local BB :) ) we had great fun playing movies on the screen (my kids and their friends thought it was cool but too small) and onto the wall (everyone was impressed). I switched to a ceiling mount a week or so ago. Much better.

Next steps are deciding on a better screen set-up (checking the DIY screen section) - thinking about just painting the wall, a DIY with blackout cloth, and maybe later upgrading to a fixed-mount factory screen. And better audio than 2 self-powered speakers from a PC! Location is a windowless basement, so light control is simple. Screen size is likely going to be something in the 90"-100" diag. range.

Infocus was great. Only problem was the refurb shipped without a remote - apparently they had a lot of those go out in mid-late December. The 1st one they shipped me was lost by UPS. 2nd arrived last week and it's made using the ceiling mount MUCH easier!

And we're still getting over the "WOW!" factor :D

So , I finally wall mounted my 4805. I used some metal triangle shelf brackets , mounted on drywall with 2 toggle bolts and 1 drywall screw w/ plastic anchor thing in each. I dont think the shelf is comming down anytime soon to say the least. I used carriage bolts to suspend my 4805 from the main shelf via a thin piece of plywood, the same wood I used on the main shelf. I realized I didnt have a tape measure, so the setup as a whole isnt as aesthetically pleasing as Id like, but I can always do V 2.0 . I also had comcast install cable today, and they gave me a DCT6412 box. Unfortunatley, I dont have a HDMI adapter , so Im using component. I have a DVI-HDMI adapter on order from monoprice. I watched LOST in HD tonight and it was great.

For the bad news, I cannot get my Geforce II Ultra to display anything over DVI . At some point in the future I will upgrade to a 6600GT.

For those of you with "ripples", here's how I solved mine. Maybe it will apply to you, maybe not. But even if not, it might give you a clue for what to look for.

Post from first 4805 thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5800973&&#post5800973)

Have you tried just plugging your DVD player and the 4805 into the Tripplite ?

It very well could be a problem in your receiver.

It's been a while since I messed with it but I think I did. Even if I didn't it would be odd if this exact same problem afflicted us unless the other guys are also using Onkyo LR552?

Here's some screenshots of ground-loop-induced (caused by cable TV cable) video humbars after removing my ground loop isolator. These are quick-and-dirty snapshots and absolutely do not do 4805's picture quality justice. These are all from HD channels from SA8300HD @ 720p or 1080i. To amplify the noise, I turned on the microwave oven. The slow-moving humbars are quite prominent in these shots.

http://homepage.mac.com/joe.kim/screenshots/gloop_humbars/IMGP0370.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/joe.kim/screenshots/gloop_humbars/IMGP0374.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/joe.kim/screenshots/gloop_humbars/IMGP0377.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/joe.kim/screenshots/gloop_humbars/IMGP0378.jpg

I'm sure most of you have seen similar illustrations. The point I'm trying to make is that these are NOT at all like my "ripple" or "waterfall" (as Devedander describe it) noise we're seeing (other than both noises being horizonal lines.)

Just for kicks, here's some shots after reinserting the ground loop isolator (again, I apologize for the picture quality - I'll try much harder next time, I swear! :D ) It's been very effective at suppressing the low frequency ground loop noise.

http://homepage.mac.com/joe.kim/screenshots/no_gloop_humbars/IMGP0395.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/joe.kim/screenshots/no_gloop_humbars/IMGP0396.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/joe.kim/screenshots/no_gloop_humbars/IMGP0400.jpg

I'm not seeing the "ripples" at the moment. When I do, I'll see if it's possible to capture them on camera. Then maybe someone can tell us for sure what kind of noise it is, ground-loop-induced or not.

Here's the link to Jensen Transformers for anyone who might be interested:

http://www.jensen-transformers.com/

VRD-1FF isolator is what I have. I have one connected to the STB, and another at the cable modem. I've not had any incidence of them interfering with any cable services, including digital cable and on-demand stuff. My coworker opted for a cheaper isolator which "filtered out" some of his favorite channels.

FWIW: I have all of my components, including the A/V receiver, 4805, and game consoles, connected to the same Monster HT850 strip (but I do not run cable TV coax through it.)

10q

Joe

You probably could have accomplished near as much running your RF coax thru the Monster - I had similar bad results in my last install and it worked and you could barely see residual noise. Jensen is the best though!

You can also get a more subtle ripple without color, or a RF diag hash. Trouble shooting this problem is a pain - read the HUMM FAQ in audio setup - you have to be methodological about your troubleshooting.

For those of you with "ripples", here's how I solved mine. Maybe it will apply to you, maybe not. But even if not, it might give you a clue for what to look for.

Post from first 4805 thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5800973&&#post5800973)

Thanks for the clue. Some of us did admit to being very sloppy "back there" :)

I would not at all be surprised if my problem was caused by EM or RFI due to virtual antennae created by all the sloppy cabling :D

Joe

hawaii23:

The below is got to be in this thread but as I said in my very first post in Dec., when I said that I could not search....well I can now "search" the site overall but NOT within the thread ("search thread").....my computer settings I suppose...therefore I'll ask what must have been asked before....please bear with me and thank-you in advance:

set-up: 4805, DVD with component, cheap white ($10) panel board from Home Depot as a screen....until I find what is best... the projector is on a shelf about 4' high behind the seating area so we don't interfere with the projection. The back end is propped up with a book so the image is completely on my screen (about 14' away) and not half on the ceiling??!!!

Issues:

1. Can I have the PJ tilted like that or does it have to be level (as I saw in a cavu posting somewhere)? I suppose having it level will avoid other issues...including #3 below?

2. The PJ projects a bright spot on the part of the screen closest to the projector (the part of the screen most directly in front of the projector). Do I use a filter for that or will a much less white screen virtually eliminate this?

3. people are short and stout....at least on one of the DVDs which was 1.85:1

4. In researching the bright spot problem in #1 above, I noticed people talking about lenses (for different aspect ratios???)....is that why my figures are short and squatty?

5. Even if the lens is not to resolve the short and stout question, will I still want to get one (eventually) for the best picture? Why are people needing them? To show different aspect ratios?

You probably could have accomplished near as much running your RF coax thru the Monster - I had similar bad results in my last install and it worked and you could barely see residual noise. Jensen is the best though!

You can also get a more subtle ripple without color, or a RF diag hash. Trouble shooting this problem is a pain - read the HUMM FAQ in audio setup - you have to be methodological about your troubleshooting.

Thanks for the info. Many of your tips helped me immensely while getting my feet wet with the PJ. This little impulse buy is slowly becoming a near-obsession. :)

The real problem now is that I'm actually beginning to look for it as opposed to just noticing it in passing when it happens to occur.

I bought the Monster strip to replace a 10-year old surge suppressor well after having installed the Jensen isolators which had been performing well, and, as Ja Phule said, it ain't fun "going back there." So I left well-enough alone.

Well - the analog gremlin showed up on the Xbox again, but it doesn't look like I can capture in on camera.

Joe

You guys still talking about the ground loop problem? I don't think there is much Infocus can do to fix your ground loop.

A Ground Loop Isolator may also do the trick. Infocus recommends Extron's GLI 250.
http://www.infocus.com/service/tech_library/techdocs/glossary.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&cat=g

Article about Ground Loops
http://www.cinemasource.com/articles/gnd_loop.pdf
I don`t think this ripples are Ground loop.. why? coz i don`t have ground on the place i have the projector installed and beside a ground loop should happen every time on every resolution.. and this only happen on HD signals and often, but not always... they go away and they comeback...
I`m certain there is no a ground loop problem. I already tried all the ground loop "solution" and didn`t fix it for me.

Here's some screenshots of ground-loop-induced (caused by cable TV cable) video humbars after removing my ground loop isolator. These are quick-and-dirty snapshots and absolutely do not do 4805's picture quality justice. These are all from HD channels from SA8300HD @ 720p or 1080i. To amplify the noise, I turned on the microwave oven. The slow-moving humbars are quite prominent in these shots.

http://homepage.mac.com/joe.kim/screenshots/gloop_humbars/IMGP0370.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/joe.kim/screenshots/gloop_humbars/IMGP0374.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/joe.kim/screenshots/gloop_humbars/IMGP0377.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/joe.kim/screenshots/gloop_humbars/IMGP0378.jpg

I'm sure most of you have seen similar illustrations. The point I'm trying to make is that these are NOT at all like my "ripple" or "waterfall" (as Devedander describe it) noise we're seeing (other than both noises being horizonal lines.)

Just for kicks, here's some shots after reinserting the ground loop isolator (again, I apologize for the picture quality - I'll try much harder next time, I swear! :D ) It's been very effective at suppressing the low frequency ground loop noise.

http://homepage.mac.com/joe.kim/screenshots/no_gloop_humbars/IMGP0395.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/joe.kim/screenshots/no_gloop_humbars/IMGP0396.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/joe.kim/screenshots/no_gloop_humbars/IMGP0400.jpg

I'm not seeing the "ripples" at the moment. When I do, I'll see if it's possible to capture them on camera. Then maybe someone can tell us for sure what kind of noise it is, ground-loop-induced or not.

Here's the link to Jensen Transformers for anyone who might be interested:

http://www.jensen-transformers.com/

VRD-1FF isolator is what I have. I have one connected to the STB, and another at the cable modem. I've not had any incidence of them interfering with any cable services, including digital cable and on-demand stuff. My coworker opted for a cheaper isolator which "filtered out" some of his favorite channels.

FWIW: I have all of my components, including the A/V receiver, 4805, and game consoles, connected to the same Monster HT850 strip (but I do not run cable TV coax through it.)

10q

Joe
Thanks for the pictures, now i can confirm what i`m getting it`s not a ground loop, my bars are much smaller i`m going to try to made a pic on photoshop to ilustrate the problem.

but.. it`s not groundloop, i``m 80% CERTAIN there is somekind of interference, coz sometimnes they are bad and sometimes they are worst and they come and go...

For those of you with "ripples", here's how I solved mine. Maybe it will apply to you, maybe not. But even if not, it might give you a clue for what to look for.

Post from first 4805 thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5800973&&#post5800973)
I think i have the exact thing, the problem is that i don`t have Satelital TV or HD broadcast.. my Cable tv is a normal one.. and i don`t even have the projector connected to any reciver with cable tv on.

I don`t see where i can get this interference on my case, but the description is very well the same.. i`m going to post a pic (custom, not a real picture) to show how it looks.

Here is the pic, remember this is not ACTUAL PROBLEM, it was made on Photoshop to give you an idea of what is going on.
the line ssometimes are most of the time on the entire screen, i just didn`t want to do all layers for it.

http://server2.uploadit.org/files/booker-Scrolling.jpg

Can I have the PJ tilted like that or does it have to be levelIt is designed to be level !! It is supposed to be placed upright on a coffee table or mounted upside down near the ceiling. There should be no need to use much if any keystone correction.The PJ projects a bright spot on the part of the screen closest to the projectorIt is called "hot-spotting". The bright spot will disappear when you get rid of your cheap white board and get a 'real' screen or proper 'goop' on the wall. It is a function of the reflectivity of the white board.people are short and stoutMake sure that both your projector and your DVD player are set for 16:9Why are people needing [lenses]?Some very experienced users have their systems setup to stretch their image to the projector and then squash it with a lens to the screen so that they use all the pixels on the screen for 2.35:1 movies. You are a very long way from worrying about that. ;)

cavu....Thanks...I guess I knew some of the answers....I just wanted confirmation....Thanks again.

Can I have the PJ tilted like that or does it have to be level
WRONG
http://www.picshelf.com/images/projector_pics/Offset-Diagram.jpg
RIGHT
http://www.picshelf.com/images/projector_pics/UpsideDown_mount.jpg

cavu....thanks for the pics....understood the first time! :)

Here is the pic, remember this is not ACTUAL PROBLEM, it was made on Photoshop to give you an idea of what is going on.
the line ssometimes are most of the time on the entire screen, i just didn`t want to do all layers for it.

http://server2.uploadit.org/files/booker-Scrolling.jpg

It's a good illustration of what I see - certainly gets the idea across. When I see it happen, they cover the entire screen. About 1" peak-to-peak (I'm assuming there's some fundamental frequency - it does look like some manifestation of a wave) with picture filling the 92" diagonal area.

Unlike the low frequency humbar (which showed up on my setup as bright red and blue when it's most intense such as when the microwave kicks in,) this doesn't distort color as far as I can tell. The higher frequency wave looks to be periodic fluctuations in brightness only.

I doubt it's anything that can be fixed at the 4805 end - more so an issue of debugging your whole system as Kras alluded to earlier if you're so motivated. However annoying, I think this is very much a mundane (at least in nature if not in solution) EM/RFI problem.

Like I said before, I'm actually surprised that I'm not seeing even more noise given the messy setup I have. Good luck! :)

Joe

It's a good illustration of what I see - certainly gets the idea across. When I see it happen, they cover the entire screen. About 1" peak-to-peak (I'm assuming there's some fundamental frequency - it does look like some manifestation of a wave) with picture filling the 92" diagonal area.

Unlike the low frequency humbar (which showed up on my setup as bright red and blue when it's most intense such as when the microwave kicks in,) this doesn't distort color as far as I can tell. The higher frequency wave looks to be periodic fluctuations in brightness only.

I doubt it's anything that can be fixed at the 4805 end - more so an issue of debugging your whole system as Kras alluded to earlier if you're so motivated. However annoying, I think this is very much a mundane (at least in nature if not in solution) EM/RFI problem.

Like I said before, I'm actually surprised that I'm not seeing even more noise given the messy setup I have. Good luck! :)

Joe
Yeap the lines cover the whole screen i just didn`t want to do all the lines manually ( i don`t know phoshop that well) :)

I have exactly the same problem as you described jkim5453 .

But yeah i`m almost certain there are some kind of interference, since the lines goes away once in a while, and come back... etc...

This is very obvious when u change resolution from 1080i to 720p back and forth.

This not happen on 480P though, never ever i saw this lines on 480p .

Btw, all of you who have this lines, do you have other HD display? it does the same thing or only on the 4805? I`m asking this coz i`m almost to get a CRT HD tv, and i want to prepare myself to fight against this lines or not

Thanks

For those who haven't seen the ripples: Just one more point additional to the description and photoshop picture - these ripples are VERY faint (not anywhere near as noticable as in the photoshop pic). So faint that you can usually only see them with a light background such as sky.

One more point in case it's a clue for any electronic noise experts. Most here who have described the ripples said that they were like a waterfall moving down the screen. Mine moved up the screen (PJ mounted upside down). Don't know if that helps or not.

For those who haven't seen the ripples: Just one more point additional to the description and photoshop picture - these ripples are VERY faint (not anywhere near as noticable as in the photoshop pic). So faint that you can usually only see them with a light background such as sky.

One more point in case it's a clue for any electronic noise experts. Most here who have described the ripples said that they were like a waterfall moving down the screen. Mine moved up the screen (PJ mounted upside down). Don't know if that helps or not.
Mine moves Down the screen 80% of the time but i saw it goes Up as well.... a 20%.
Hope this helps

@Scooterboy,
do you have other HD display? does you get those ripples on the other Display or only on the 4805?

Did you try hitting auto image on the remote ?Instead of Auto Image, try switching to another video from the remote (e.g. Video 3) and then back. That fixes the problem (scrolling lines) for me 100% of the time.

Instead of Auto Image, try switching to another video from the remote (e.g. Video 3) and then back. That fixes the problem (scrolling lines) for me 100% of the time.
yeah i know, that fix it for me too, but i can`t call that a "fix"..

there have to be something we can do to find why is doing those lines.

I also think it has to be something else, not a grong loop. But what? RFI, EMI???

Those of you that are using the oppo, how are you running it to the 4805? I have to run the cable up from the basement so I was thinking of using a dvi to hdmi cable because of the smaller hole I would need to cut and then get a hdmi to m1 adapter. Or should I just use a hdmi cable with adapters on both ends?

hmmm.... that photoshop of the ripples is KIND of like what I am expriencing... but mine are no where near that thick or that defined...

Mine look more like a moir effect but instead of being curved or anything they are just bars in the same general idea as that photoshop and they cannot be captured on anything but maybe a hi res video camera as they seem to be only a few pixels wide...

I do think it might have something to do with interference but that wouldn't explain why I can get rid of it sometimes by changing sources or restarting my reciever.

Oh and mine is mounted upsdie down and I am pretty sure the humbars went up and these only go down for me (my humbars were not colored, just bars or brightness).

I still think this is something to do with a sync issue though. Possibly the wheel and mirros not quite aligining properly say ever few lines or so... would fit more along the lines of what is solving this issue which is basically resyncing.

Maybe if that new firmware (where is that anyway) comes along it will help...

hmmm.... that photoshop of the ripples is KIND of like what I am expriencing... but mine are no where near that thick or that defined...

Mine look more like a moir effect but instead of being curved or anything they are just bars in the same general idea as that photoshop and they cannot be captured on anything but maybe a hi res video camera as they seem to be only a few pixels wide...

I do think it might have something to do with interference but that wouldn't explain why I can get rid of it sometimes by changing sources or restarting my reciever.

Oh and mine is mounted upsdie down and I am pretty sure the humbars went up and these only go down for me (my humbars were not colored, just bars or brightness).

I still think this is something to do with a sync issue though. Possibly the wheel and mirros not quite aligining properly say ever few lines or so... would fit more along the lines of what is solving this issue which is basically resyncing.

Maybe if that new firmware (where is that anyway) comes along it will help...
pls remember that photoshop was a ilustrator of how i remember, it`s not the same thing... i`m preatty sure we all get the same thing..

Ì don`t think it`s is the sync since sometimes i`m watching 720p and the lines appear... while sometimes they are there and they go away...

I`m almsot certain there is some kind of interference.. coz those are typical interference signals.

If a sync issue then we should sent the projectors to Infoucs... but if there is a interference, then we need to find what is causing coz i can`t enjoy HD material with those lines..

Quick question.

Does the bottom of the image shift up and down when you zoom in and out?

I don't remember it happening but after cleaning the mirrors it does. Is my memory just failing?


Thanks

pls remember that photoshop was a ilustrator of how i remember, it`s not the same thing... i`m preatty sure we all get the same thing..

Ì don`t think it`s is the sync since sometimes i`m watching 720p and the lines appear... while sometimes they are there and they go away...

I`m almsot certain there is some kind of interference.. coz those are typical interference signals.

If a sync issue then we should sent the projectors to Infoucs... but if there is a interference, then we need to find what is causing coz i can`t enjoy HD material with those lines..

Well there is a known sync issue with the latest firmware that causes flickering (dont know if you see it but sometimes I do and it's BAD, its on par with an onld style movie projector).

And if it is interferance how does changing inputs or powering on and off my reciever (which I think pretty much forces a resync) fix it?

Quick question.

Does the bottom of the image shift up and down when you zoom in and out?

I don't remember it happening but after cleaning the mirrors it does. Is my memory just failing?


Thanks

Yes the image moves around when you zoom becuase of the lense offset.

@dsl1

Mine seems to shift with zoom.

Same here.

Thanks guys.


Another question. What size screws do I need to go into the three holes at the bottom of the projector. I'll build a mount this weekend.

Cheers

[QUOTE=
If a sync issue then we should sent the projectors to Infoucs... but if there is a interference, then we need to find what is causing coz i can`t enjoy HD material with those lines..[/QUOTE]


I feel the same way. You buy this thing which is not cheap, and just want it to work correctly.

Thanks guys.


Another question. What size screws do I need to go into the three holes at the bottom of the projector. I'll build a mount this weekend.

Cheers

You will need 4mm screws and use a 3/8" to 1/2 " spacer depending on your mount so you do not bottom out and damage the Projector.

What size screws do I need to go into the three holes at the bottom of the projector.To quote a warning from Bob Williams of InFocus: The threaded inserts in the bottom of the projector are 8mm deep. Do not go beyond that depth or you risk damaging the electronics inside (there is a plastic plug at the end of the insert but if you tighten the screws enough they will go right through it). The InFocus mount uses a 9.5mm spacer between the mounting plate and the projector to allow for the longer 16mm screw.

I cannot say anything regarding your specific situation other than recommending using the InFocus mount. The projector is only U.L. certified for safety using that mount.

Makes me wonder how long the screws I used were... I remember wondering if they were tightening near the end due to the locking washer I was using or if they were bottoming out... my pj still works so...

What do you like better about the grey wolf? I was using my 4805 sitting on a table first and once I ceiling mounted it you can see a big difference in the picture. It looks very dingy after ceiling mounting the 4805 and I was very disapointed with the pq.

I was actually considering the video spectra from dalite. Either that or buying a projector with lense shift so I can put it on the table behind the couch.


I have Greywolf 92 I paid $112 shiped for a few weeks back. Very happy with it.
4805 is plenty bright ceiling mounted with it. I even use my ND2 filter.

Much better then the Dalite Spectra Vision I had before.

@Scooterboy,
do you have other HD display? does you get those ripples on the other Display or only on the 4805?

I get these lines on my 4805 as well. Only with my Comcast/Motorola DCT-6200 cable box hooked up via component. And they are not there all the time. I never see them with my HTPC/computer hooked up via DVI. I just assumed it was interference on the component cables (since they are analog) due to the fact that I have a 12ft run of component cables that runs side-by-side with the DVI cable, an s-video cable and the power cable (all in split loom). I record HD via firewire from the cable box to my HTPC and never see these lines on the HTPC hooked up via DVI. I only see them when driving the 4805 directly from the cable box over component.

I do have another HD display in another room (Samsung 32" LCD HDTV) and do NOT see these lines on that display. However, it is hooked up via HDMI to a Comcast/Motorola DCT-6412 DVR (so no analog cable runs).

No lines here using components with a 35' run from 4805 to a Radishack compenent switcher (that takes comp in from my sony dvd, SA 8300HD dvr and Xbox).

No lines here using components with a 35' run from 4805 to a Radishack compenent switcher (that takes comp in from my sony dvd, SA 8300HD dvr and Xbox).
i don`t think the lenght of the cable matter on this case, since i tried with 4 meters cable as well as 1meter cable and on both cases i got the interference. (if that is it).

We well know if is an interference or a Bad projector when Z26 tried it on his friend`s house. If is a sync issue, it shouldn`t work ok, if is a interference, it should work ok, since his friend has the same projector and ran perfectly.

We all looking forward to your test Z26 :)

No lines here using components with a 35' run from 4805 to a Radishack compenent switcher (that takes comp in from my sony dvd, SA 8300HD dvr and Xbox).

I am running a similar setup here at home and I don't get any lines. But when I am over my GF house I get lines on all inputs(Component, DVI, VGA). I believe it is from here Electric not being properly grounded. The outlets in her basement and kitchen are on one line. We've discussed having the house rewired in the very near future. Those lines are very noticeable and annoying.

From reading all of these posts of those with ground loop problems, at least 95% of the time the common denominator seems to be a problem with the cable company not properly grounding their cable feed into the posters homes or it is the wiring in your home not being properly grounded.

If you guys take your your Xbox or dvd player and the 4805 and plug them both into the same power strip and then connect a quality set of component cables from the 4805 to the Xbox/dvd player and you still have a problem, then I would give Infocus a call. Otherwise, it is a problem with either your homes wiring or the cable company's cabling or set top box and at least you can rule out the 4805 as being the problem.

From reading all of these posts of those with ground loop problems, at least 95% of the time the common denominator seems to be a problem with the cable company not properly grounding their cable feed into the posters homes or it is the wiring in your home not being properly grounded.

If you guys take your your Xbox or dvd player and the 4805 and plug them both into the same power strip and then connect a quality set of component cables from the 4805 to the Xbox/dvd player and you still have a problem, then I would give Infocus a call. Otherwise, it is a problem with either your homes wiring or the cable company's cabling or set top box and at least you can rule out the 4805 as being the problem.
i already tried all ground loop solution and mine it`s not a ground loop.

ground loop happen on every resoultion, and this happen only on HD resolutions and sometimes.. not always...

i already tried all ground loop solution and mine it`s not a ground loop.

ground loop happen on every resoultion, and this happen only on HD resolutions and sometimes.. not always...
What is your source of HD ?

What is your source of HD ?
xbox and xbox360... i don`t have HD tv

I have the rolling bars, also, it's the EMI/RFI that everyone is describing, I've had it on every source that is connected with component cables. I have high quality cables, but I wonder if there is anything that makes component cables more suseptible to interference.

They come and go, and don't bother me too much. I'd much rather have it on my HD feed for tv than my dvd feed for movies, although a totally clean line would be better.

I'm in the process of having new outlets that are properly grounded run for the theater room, so I've stopped trying to track things down until after that is done and I see if I still have a problem. I'm also going to route my pj power cable the opposite direction of my dvi and component cables, so they never cross and see if that helps as well.

Wes

yeap, i get them only on Component source, I tried M1 and it worked fine.

Let us know is that fix it, but i doubt it.. i`m almost certain it`s a EMI, since they come and go... yeah if u change INputs, they can go away but still can be EMI.

Groundloop should happen ALL the time and on ANY resolution.

beside you can`t have a ground loop problem if u don`t have ground.

I have the rolling bars, also, it's the EMI/RFI that everyone is describing, I've had it on every source that is connected with component cables. I have high quality cables, but I wonder if there is anything that makes component cables more suseptible to interference.

The difference (at least compared to the DVI connection) is that component is analog. Not that you can't get interference on a digital signal/cable. But this interference we are talking about is so clearly of an analog nature (rolling bars). Interference on a digital signal would likely manifest itself as sparklies, drop-outs and pixelation.

I guess an interesting test would be to hook my Comcast DVR up via component to my LCD TV and see if I also get the rolling bars there. But, I don't really feel like messing with the cables there since everything is working fine. :)

beside you can`t have a ground loop problem if u don`t have ground.Not true. You can develop a 'ground loop' through a difference in the potential between the electrical system neutral and the signal grounds of the equipment, particularly the CATV cable.

Even if y'all don't have a ground loop issue at the moment, take a minute and go and inspect the CATV ground where the cable enters your premises. Amongst other reasons, you want a solid, low impedance ground connection to protect you, your family, your house and your equipment from static electricity and lightning.

(From someone who has been hit by lightening more than once!)

BEHOLD
The crappiest wallmount ever. No tape measure , no straight edge, etc. It works VERY well though .

http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphoto.php?photo=18951

For any one interested in how the Xbox 360 scores on dvd playback :

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/cgi-bin/shootout.cgi?function=search&articles=125#MicrosoftXbox%20360%20(Component)

It's scores only 2 points below the Toshiba SD3960's performance that was recomended by DaGamePimp on the old 4805 thread.

Click here for a list of all players tested :

56k warning, it will take a while to load since there are around 100 reviews.

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/cgi-bin/shootout.cgi?function=search&articles=all&type=&manufacturer=0&maxprice=0&deInt=0&mpeg=0

For any one interested in how the Xbox 360 scores on dvd playback :

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/cgi-bin/shootout.cgi?function=search&articles=125#MicrosoftXbox%20360%20(Component)

It's scores only 2 points below the Toshiba SD3960's performance that was recomended by DaGamePimp on the old 4805 thread.

Click here for a list of all players tested :

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/cgi-bin/shootout.cgi?function=search&articles=all&type=&manufacturer=0&maxprice=0&deInt=0&mpeg=0
thanks,
nice info!

For any one interested in how the Xbox 360 scores on dvd playback :

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/cgi-bin/shootout.cgi?function=search&articles=125#MicrosoftXbox%20360%20(Component)

It's scores only 2 points below the Toshiba SD3960's performance that was recomended by DaGamePimp on the old 4805 thread.

Click here for a list of all players tested :

56k warning, it will take a while to load since there are around 100 reviews.

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/cgi-bin/shootout.cgi?function=search&articles=all&type=&manufacturer=0&maxprice=0&deInt=0&mpeg=0

Unfortunately, those scores relate mostly to their progressive capabilities. As a 480i player, we need to look at the last 4 columns, but that does not tell us much about picture quality and detail.

The other 4805 favorites scores:
Bravo D1 71
Momitsu 69
Oppo 98

I think it's interesting that all of us with this "waterfall" issue are experiencing it over component only... I may try running some svideo and composite to see if issues persists with other inputs as well. Maybe some 4805s have faulty component inputs?

Unfortunately, those scores relate mostly to their progressive capabilities. As a 480i player, we need to look at the last 4 columns, but that does not tell us much about picture quality and detail.

The other 4805 favorites scores:
Bravo D1 71
Momitsu 69
Oppo 98
Ja Phule,

These scores are broken down into core and deinterlacing performance. You actually want to look at the 11 columns on the right that deal with the core performance for 480i. Ignore the last column on the right as it only refers to the responsiveness of the remote and doesnt involve picture detail. The deinterlacing columns on the left concern the progressive output tests. Either way, it's still a pretty good guide. :)

Ja Phule,

These scores are broken down into core and deinterlacing performance. You actually want to look at the 11 columns on the right that deal with the core performance for 480i. Ignore the last column on the right as it only refers to the responsiveness of the remote and doesnt involve picture detail. The deinterlacing columns on the left concern the progressive output tests. Either way, it's still a pretty good guide. :)

Mybad, that's what I meant, the last side of the columns. Not sure why I stated 4. :)

I think it's interesting that all of us with this "waterfall" issue are experiencing it over component only... I may try running some svideo and composite to see if issues persists with other inputs as well. Maybe some 4805s have faulty component inputs?
that is what i though.
I did try M1 and it worked fine.

The problem with RCA and Svhcs is that you can`t output HD on those Inputs, so they will work fine.. i donpt have any issue with component input on 480i/p Only on HD resolution.

Call infocus. They should ship you a remote if you did not get one.
remote is included in the refurb deal.

Guess I wasn't clear - called Infocus and they shipped me a remote. Other than a long time on hold for customer support and UPS losing the 1st one, no worries. :) Their reps were very easy to deal with.

BEHOLD
The crappiest wallmount ever. No tape measure , no straight edge, etc. It works VERY well though .

http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphoto.php?photo=18951
I believe that earns a WAF of 1... maybe 2. ;-)

BEHOLD
The crappiest wallmount ever. No tape measure , no straight edge, etc. It works VERY well though .

http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphoto.php?photo=18951


It looks like you are using the same "long bolts let you easily adjust the height of each corner" idea that I implement in my ceiling mount idea that I have pictures of at:

http://pics.omnux.com/Misc-4805ProjectorMount

I painted mine, so that might increase the WAF factor a bit if I had a W.

@Scooterboy,
do you have other HD display? does you get those ripples on the other Display or only on the 4805?
4805 is my only HD capable display.

My setup:

Motorola 6412 HD cable box connected to component input of 4805
DVB318@1080i connected to component->M1 input of 4805
Tivo series 1 connected to s-video input of 4805
All cables 30' long.

Ripples were only on the HD box->component input. Remember - I got rid of my ripples at the amplifier as described in previous post.

It looks like you are using the same "long bolts let you easily adjust the height of each corner" idea that I implement in my ceiling mount idea that I have pictures of at:

http://pics.omnux.com/Misc-4805ProjectorMount

I painted mine, so that might increase the WAF factor a bit if I had a W.


Yeah , I think I looked at your mount a while ago. You definatley have a much better implementation than I do. Its actually a great design , I can get everything DEAD ON in terms of level/tilt/etc .

Yeah , I think I looked at your mount a while ago. You definatley have a much better implementation than I do. Its actually a great design , I can get everything DEAD ON in terms of level/tilt/etc .

Your's shows that the basic design can be used for back wall mounts, though. That's a valuable thing. I'd like to add a good quality pic of that setup to my page at some point ( like I did with another user-submitted one at http://pics.omnux.com/Misc-4805ProjectorMount/projectormount ) to show that it can also be applied to the wall mount situation.

I wanted to get an opinon on the dvi m1 cable that monoprice sells. Monoprice has their cables at 25ft and 50ft. I needed one that is at least 30ft. Do you think the 50ft cable would have any signal losses?

I have the 25 footer hooked to a HTPC and it works fantastic. Great build quality. I wouldn't expect there to be any issues with the 50 footer. Just my .02 cents

4805 is my only HD capable display.

My setup:

Motorola 6412 HD cable box connected to component input of 4805
DVB318@1080i connected to component->M1 input of 4805
Tivo series 1 connected to sivideo input of 4805
All cables 30' long.

Ripples were only on the HD box->component input. Remember - I got rid of my ripples at the amplifier as described in previous post.
well infoucs replyed my emial.. they basically told me the projecto is still under warranty so i should call Service Center from Argentina. :(

But i don`t want to send my projector if is not broken :( (wich i`m still thinking is not)

well infoucs replyed my emial.. they basically told me the projecto is still under warranty so i should call Service Center from Argentina. :(

But i don`t want to send my projector if is not broken :( (wich i`m still thinking is not)

I just bought these LINK (http://cgi. ebay dot com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5852272750&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1). They might work, Its worth a try. They were cheap and you never know. I will let you know.

I just bought these LINK (http://cgi.*********/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5852272750&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1). AVS filters links from eBay. To use the above link, right click on link and select "copy link location".

Paste the link location into your browser bar and replace the asterisks with "ebay dot com"


**OR** easier yet, go to www dot ebay dot com and search for item # 5852272750

AVS filters links from eBay. To use the above link, right click on link and select "copy link location".

Paste the link location into your browser bar and replace the asterisks with "ebay dot com"


It still wont work. O well, I will copy and past what I can.



I've used ferrite cores to eliminate EMI / RFI problems in the HF, VHF and UHF spectrum. Examples: Severe noise on shortwave radios, triggering of electronic light switches and false tripping of a home alarm system. These things really work!

INSTALLATION:
Installation is very simple. Just snap and lock over any coax, audio, AC or DC power cable up to 5/16" diameter. Smaller cables can be looped with multiple turns for exponential gains in EMI / RFI attenuation. Use a small tie-wrap to secure the device to any nearby anchor.



Works at either end of the noise path through the wiring.

At the SOURCE, ferrite cores attenuate EMI / RFI from transmitters or electrical noise from equipment (computers, motors, fluorescent lights) before it gets into the house wiring through the power cord. Once the noise makes it to the house wiring, it can travel through the wiring directly to your radio, TV, computer etc. BUT the wiring can also act as an antenna and 'broadcast' interference to nearby battery operated equipment too.

At the RECEIVER, ferrite cores attenuate electrical noise generated by all kinds of AC powered equipment traveling through the house wiring before it gets to your radio, TV, computer, etc. BUT, again, the wiring can act as an antenna and pickup RF interference from nearby sources such as mobile radios. So, placement close to the receiver, TV, etc., may be best in that situation.

Bi-Directional Protection: Amazingly, ferrite cores can provide bi-directional protection too. 'Touch lamps' are a good example. They are strong RFI generators when ON while at the same time, they are susceptible to being turned off or on by strong RF fields. Ferrite cores installed close to the lamp can fix the problems in both directions.

Attenuates EMI / RFI or electrical noise picked up by long microphone/audio cables. Multiple units spaced along long lines, can alter the resonant frequency of the cables as well as more evenly distribute the attenuation for better performance.
Generally, placement should be as close to the equipment as possible for maximum attenuation, but as experienced RF technicians know, sometimes, a better location can be determined experimentally.

Can anyone tell me what would be causing this? See the attached picture of a blank white screen. It started a week or so a go and is gradually getting bigger. I have cleaned the lamp module filters but no help. I've also used some air in a can on the color wheel, no avail.

Thanks,
Samplehead

Can anyone tell me what would be causing this? See the attached picture of a blank white screen. It started a week or so a go and is gradually getting bigger. I have cleaned the lamp module filters but no help. I've also used some air in a can on the color wheel, no avail.

Thanks,
Samplehead

Whatever it is, it doesnt look good. Are you under warranty?

Can anyone tell me what would be causing this? See the attached picture of a blank white screen. It started a week or so a go and is gradually getting bigger. I have cleaned the lamp module filters but no help. I've also used some air in a can on the color wheel, no avail.

Thanks,
Samplehead
Samplehead - that looks like an issue that was discussed a few times in the old thread. The post below should get you on the trail of the discussion..

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6216897&&#post6216897

Samplehead - that looks like an issue that was discussed a few times in the old thread. The post below should get you on the trail of the discussion..

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6216897&&#post6216897

Thanks, I didn't know what words to start searching the thread for this with!

The misaligned fold mirror is what does it.



07-12-05, 11:36 AM #14574 (Print)
Bob Williams
InFocus Engineer




Originally Posted by DeerHunter
Hugh,


...

If your still under warranty, contact INFOCUS, get a supervisor along with his email, and email him the pic of the anomoly. We've all heard the "We can't seem to reproduce the problem" line before whether it be from INFOCUS or our auto mechanic. If they see the it, the more likely they'll be able to diagnose/repair/relpace it.

Good luck!




This indeed looks like a misaligned fold mirror. The fold mirror, which is adjusted at the factory, steers the light from the lamp onto the DMD and the light is supposed to overfill the DMD on all sides, but in your case it looks like it is missing slightly on one side. Do as DeerHunter says and/or email www.techsupport@infocus.com with the picture and this response attached.

__________________
Bob Williams
www.infocus.com

Ok, I've read through the "left hand green line" issue in the other thread. However this sounds quite different to what I'm experiencing.

i.e. in my case:

* it's yellow, not green
* it's on the right hand side
* it's a "smudge" not a line
* it's MOST NOTICEABLE on WHITE
* it's just started, after having the 4805 since Sep 2004.

Any further input is most appreciated...

Best,
Samplehead

Ok, I've read through the "left hand green line" issue in the other thread. However this sounds quite different to what I'm experiencing.

i.e. in my case:

* it's yellow, not green
* it's on the right hand side
* it's a "smudge" not a line
* it's MOST NOTICEABLE on WHITE
* it's just started, after having the 4805 since Sep 2004.

Any further input is most appreciated...

Best,
Samplehead

If you read through about 30 or so posts before Bob Williams' post #14574 in the old thread, you will see that he discusses both green/amber colors. Where is your "smudge" located ?

If you read through about 30 or so posts before Bob Williams' post #14574 in the old thread, you will see that he discusses both green/amber colors. Where is your "smudge" located ?

Thanks, did you have a look at the picture I attached?

I am looking at putting a 4805 in the basement for kids to play games on and get out of my hair. Not being a projector guy (yet) I have a couple of newbie questions about the aspect ratio. I have a plasma TV upstairs, and when I get a 4x3 picture I can either have black bars, or stretch it, or use a "stadium" mode that just stretches the edges out to fill up the screen.

How does a 16x9 native projector handle the 4x3 pictures?

My other dumb question has to do with screen size and seating distance. I have heard that 2 x the screen size is the minimum, or maybe 1.5 x the screen size. In your opinion, having one - how big is your screen and how far away do you sit? I know that if you get up close to the plasma it looks like crap, but at 6 feet it looks fine.

I have heard that 2 x the screen size is the minimum ... I know that if you get up close to the plasma it looks like crap, but at 6 feet it looks fine.6ft is twice the screen width of a 42" diag plasma.

13ft is twice the screen width of a 92" diag projection screen.

Thanks, did you have a look at the picture I attached?
Sorry, I just now looked at it. This may sound funny, but a previous poster had the same problem and it turned out to be the thread from the lens cap hanging down. I know this isn't the same as your problem since you've been up to have a close look.

Ok, I've read through the "left hand green line" issue in the other thread. However this sounds quite different to what I'm experiencing.

i.e. in my case:

* it's yellow, not green
* it's on the right hand side
* it's a "smudge" not a line
* it's MOST NOTICEABLE on WHITE
* it's just started, after having the 4805 since Sep 2004.

Any further input is most appreciated...

Hi Samplehead - I don't know if any of the differences you referenced would necessarily eliminate fold mirror misalignment as your issue, but the fact that it just started happening out of nowhere and is getting worse seems to be inconsistent with a fixed mirror misalignment IMO.

Either way, it looks like your PJ has a trip to the InFocus service center in its future unfortunately. Good luck - I hope it's resolved painlessly.

Originally Posted by mprover
BEHOLD

The crappiest wallmount ever. No tape measure , no straight edge, etc. It works VERY well though .

mprover you are just $14.99 from perfection there. Old timers will quickly recognize the mount is BEGGING for a fake spider or fern plant ($9.99 from Wallyworld or Micheals) then a lovely fake creeping vine wound up the cords ($4.99 should do the trick) and your are GOLD buddy. You could really go nuts and place a fake Ficus tree back there but those are budget busters. PLEASE go out tomorrow and get that going and post pics. Jumangie would be the perfect film to debu the new look with and you should have the misses overwhelmed and in high heels and fishnets before the weekend is over. (Pics of that would be awfully nice of you also) :D

Carry on.....

mprover you are just $14.99 from perfection there. Old timers will quickly recognize the mount is BEGGING for a fake spider or fern plant ($9.99 from Wallyworld or Micheals) then a lovely fake creeping vine wound up the cords ($4.99 should do the trick) and your are GOLD buddy. You could really go nuts and place a fake Ficus tree back there but those are budget busters. PLEASE go out tomorrow and get that going and post pics. Jumangie would be the perfect film to debu the new look with and you should have the misses overwhelmed and in high heels and fishnets before the weekend is over. (Pics of that would be awfully nice of you also) :D

Carry on.....

That's a good one Brian, you're killing me. It's been a while since I laughed this hard.

Another newbie question....I just purchased an sp4805. I will hook it up to Yamaha htr5860 via component cable. I will run component from my dvd to the av receiver. I'm stumped with the audio. I plan to run 6 channel rca from dvd to av receiver for sacd but will this hookup be all I need for all audio transfer?

BEHOLD
The crappiest wallmount ever. No tape measure , no straight edge, etc. It works VERY well though .

http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphoto.php?photo=18951

Now I saw someone with a similar mount - but they had achieved very high WAF - it was covered with fake ivy and flowers. Who was that - care to own up to your gallery pic? :p

Brian I AM - do you remember who it was? Time to em-bare-ass them again :D

http://www.neodigits.com/new/body/products/X3620/specs.asp

Note the 852 x 480 optional output. I doubt it will topple the current batch of pixel mapping contenders, but at it's price point it had darn well better do something well!

"What is the chipset inside?
The chipset we used in the X3620 player is Sigma Designs 8620."

$50 got me a used Bravo D1 (shipped), with some quirkiness.
$20 got me a used Lite on 166s drive.
Swapped it in tonight and now I have a PERECTLY working D1 1:1 Pixel mapped @ 854x480 @ 49.xx hZ (as per Mouw) and the pq is second to none. REALLI impressive on 5th Element and SWIII. Space scenes looked crazy too the point where you can lamost tell it is fake.

1:1 Pixel mapped @ 854x480 @ 49.xx hZShould be 47.95 Hz ... call it 48Hz ;)

It still wont work. O well, I will copy and past what I can.



I've used ferrite cores to eliminate EMI / RFI problems in the HF, VHF and UHF spectrum. Examples: Severe noise on shortwave radios, triggering of electronic light switches and false tripping of a home alarm system. These things really work!

INSTALLATION:
Installation is very simple. Just snap and lock over any coax, audio, AC or DC power cable up to 5/16" diameter. Smaller cables can be looped with multiple turns for exponential gains in EMI / RFI attenuation. Use a small tie-wrap to secure the device to any nearby anchor.



Works at either end of the noise path through the wiring.

At the SOURCE, ferrite cores attenuate EMI / RFI from transmitters or electrical noise from equipment (computers, motors, fluorescent lights) before it gets into the house wiring through the power cord. Once the noise makes it to the house wiring, it can travel through the wiring directly to your radio, TV, computer etc. BUT the wiring can also act as an antenna and 'broadcast' interference to nearby battery operated equipment too.

At the RECEIVER, ferrite cores attenuate electrical noise generated by all kinds of AC powered equipment traveling through the house wiring before it gets to your radio, TV, computer, etc. BUT, again, the wiring can act as an antenna and pickup RF interference from nearby sources such as mobile radios. So, placement close to the receiver, TV, etc., may be best in that situation.

Bi-Directional Protection: Amazingly, ferrite cores can provide bi-directional protection too. 'Touch lamps' are a good example. They are strong RFI generators when ON while at the same time, they are susceptible to being turned off or on by strong RF fields. Ferrite cores installed close to the lamp can fix the problems in both directions.

Attenuates EMI / RFI or electrical noise picked up by long microphone/audio cables. Multiple units spaced along long lines, can alter the resonant frequency of the cables as well as more evenly distribute the attenuation for better performance.
Generally, placement should be as close to the equipment as possible for maximum attenuation, but as experienced RF technicians know, sometimes, a better location can be determined experimentally.
Z26,
PLS let me know if this work ok coz i really want to fix this and it will be great to find a solution like this !!

Thanks

Ps, when u can try to post a working link coz the one right now don`t work.

Another newbie question....I just purchased an sp4805. I will hook it up to Yamaha htr5860 via component cable. I will run component from my dvd to the av receiver. I'm stumped with the audio. I plan to run 6 channel rca from dvd to av receiver for sacd but will this hookup be all I need for all audio transfer?

This can be all you need for audio. By using your dvd player's 6 channel analog output, you are relying on your dvd player to decode DD5.1 and DTS5.1. Depending on your player, many players don't give you a good variety of options in speaker set up and crossover compared to what your receiver can. If you use digital optical or coax for DD5.1 and DTS audio, your receiver will do the decoding. You will need to use the 6ch outputs on your dvd player for sacd either way.

Should be 47.95 Hz ... call it 48Hz ;)


That is exactly what it is @.

This can be all you need for audio. By using your dvd player's 6 channel analog output, you are relying on your dvd player to decode DD5.1 and DTS5.1. Depending on your player, many players don't give you a good variety of options in speaker set up and crossover compared to what your receiver can. If you use digital optical or coax for DD5.1 and DTS audio, your receiver will do the decoding. You will need to use the 6ch outputs on your dvd player for sacd either way.

I would STRONGLY reco using optical toslink or Digital Coax cable to pass the digital audio from your DVD player for movies.
Most SACD players (using the analog 6ch outs) do not do bass management and you REALLY want that for DVD.

Now I saw someone with a similar mount - but they had achieved very high WAF - it was covered with fake ivy and flowers. Who was that - care to own up to your gallery pic? :p

Brian I AM - do you remember who it was? Time to em-bare-ass them again :D
Are you busting my balls again? :)

http://home.comcast.net/~sfconnell/images/pj/IMG_1749.JPG

I don't know if this has been addressed before but I am getting a faint pinkish line that goes vertically thru the picture. This happens from both the xbox and cable box using component cables. i am using a jvc av selector jx-66. So I don't know if anyone else has had this kind of problem.

B

Are you busting my balls again? :)



Not at all - why if I was doing that I would have asked to see the holiday decorations version of the install!!!! :eek: :eek:

That is exactly what it is @.

No actually it is 48Hz/1.001 Hz ~ 47.952048Hz

Go with the fraction - it is easier to recalc than remember!

:p

Ground loop issue, pull the coax off the back of the cable box and see if it still happens. If it stops then order yourself a ground isolater for the cable line.

You can also test for this with a 3 prong to 2 on adapter on the 4805 power wire.

I don't know if this has been addressed before but I am getting a faint pinkish line that goes vertically thru the picture. This happens from both the xbox and cable box using component cables. i am using a jvc av selector jx-66. So I don't know if anyone else has had this kind of problem.

B

Wait till the wife tries to water them and waters the 4805 in the process :)

Are you busting my balls again? :)

http://home.comcast.net/~sfconnell/images/pj/IMG_1749.JPG

Ground loop issue, pull the coax off the back of the cable box and see if it still happens. If it stops then order yourself a ground isolater for the cable line.

You can also test for this with a 3 prong to 2 on adapter on the 4805 power wire.


Sorry did at that. This is not a ground loop.

LOL thanks for posting Scooterboy...we're not bustin' on ya. I have applied your methods to many areas over the years....currently the corner of the couch hiding about 2 dozen wires with a lovely spiderplant/easter basket combo. Without your vision, we might all be using bricks or cardboard cutouts of little animals, or just big piles of used up Bud Light cans to hide our handwork. :eek:

Wait till the wife tries to water them and waters the 4805 in the process :)
we have a sprinkler system

Switcher review:

I bought the Pelican/Performance/Score System Selector Pro 2.0 (the one with the LCD screen) for $70 at Buy.com after some coupons. I think the same item is re-branded by various distributors.

Plugged in HD cable box, Xbox, 360, and PS2, all through both component and composite (obviously when switching to TV I'd need to switch cables on the game systems). Three of those used optical audio as well. Composite out to TV, component out to Infocus 4805 projector.

Watched a movie and whenever there was a sudden flash, like an explosion, the screen would get weird momentarily, like the projector lost sync for a split second. Did it on several movies. To make sure, I plugged the Xbox (which I was using as the dvd player) direct into the projector and played the same scenes, and they played back fine, so this was definitely an issue with the selector.

Also noticed some ghosting on Xbox dashboard and DVE calibration disc through Xbox. Also, the brightness was way screwed up -- my 4805 was calibrated before with DVE to contrast/brightness of 57/49; with the selector in the chain, it calibrated to 40/49 (had to turn contrast way down).

So, basically, this thing is useless for me, unfortunately. My only option, I guess, is to spend more than twice as much on something like the Audio Authority 1154a (almost 1/3 what I paid for the projector itself) and get a second switcher for composite, and then have to shell out again eventually when everything's got HDMI or DVI. It's too bad this thing sucks, because the convenience of having component, optical, and composite inputs and outputs all in one box, all remote-controllable, was very nice.

Thanks Ja Phule and MBOY! So I can use optical Toslink/digital coax AND still have the 6 channel audio run into the receiver. Will the DVD default to the toslink/coax for movies instead of the 6 channel?

My only option, I guess, is to spend more than twice as much on something like the Audio Authority 1154a (almost 1/3 what I paid for the projector itself) and get a second switcher for composite, and then have to shell out again eventually when everything's got HDMI or DVI. It's too bad this thing sucks, because the convenience of having component, optical, and composite inputs and outputs all in one box, all remote-controllable, was very nice.

Depending on how "deluxe" you want to get, I got my component switcher for $20 and it works perrectly fine; however, it is NOT remote controllable, nor does it have optical (I only use optical for the HTPC; all else is coax).

I think if you look hard enough, you will find a much better deal. ;)

Thanks Ja Phule and MBOY! So I can use optical Toslink/digital coax AND still have the 6 channel audio run into the receiver. Will the DVD default to the toslink/coax for movies instead of the 6 channel?

Yes, just make sure you have you have your DVD player set to send bitsream for audio.

Xylon,

I looked at this item and have a question. I have 3 component connections and want them to display thru the projector. If I read this right, this is bass-ackwards from what most of us are looking for? I'm wondering will this work as a switcher or amp only?

Thanx!

Griff

Switcher and amp. Yes.

Look my projector is about 30 feet away which means I need around 50 feet of cable. Those passive switchers is not going to cut it if you are using this long wires. They are fine for shorter runs.

This will amplify the signal so you get fewer degradation on your PQ.

Ooops disregard my earlier post I meant CSM42.

OK,

This looks more like what I'm looking for. In the pics of the back I don't see any of the optical connections listed in the specs. Am I missing something?

This is also a few bucks more than I was wanting to spend but if it works as advertised, I will consider it.

Anybody ever use this?

Griff

Switcher review:

I bought the Pelican/Performance/Score System Selector Pro 2.0 (the one with the LCD screen) for $70 at Buy.com after some coupons. I think the same item is re-branded by various distributors.

Plugged in HD cable box, Xbox, 360, and PS2, all through both component and composite (obviously when switching to TV I'd need to switch cables on the game systems). Three of those used optical audio as well. Composite out to TV, component out to Infocus 4805 projector.

Watched a movie and whenever there was a sudden flash, like an explosion, the screen would get weird momentarily, like the projector lost sync for a split second. Did it on several movies. To make sure, I plugged the Xbox (which I was using as the dvd player) direct into the projector and played the same scenes, and they played back fine, so this was definitely an issue with the selector.

Also noticed some ghosting on Xbox dashboard and DVE calibration disc through Xbox. Also, the brightness was way screwed up -- my 4805 was calibrated before with DVE to contrast/brightness of 57/49; with the selector in the chain, it calibrated to 40/49 (had to turn contrast way down).

So, basically, this thing is useless for me, unfortunately. My only option, I guess, is to spend more than twice as much on something like the Audio Authority 1154a (almost 1/3 what I paid for the projector itself) and get a second switcher for composite, and then have to shell out again eventually when everything's got HDMI or DVI. It's too bad this thing sucks, because the convenience of having component, optical, and composite inputs and outputs all in one box, all remote-controllable, was very nice.

Go to Radio Shack and pick up a Component Switcher. They have one there that has 4 Component inputs, 4 RCA audio inputs, 4 Digital audio via Coax(SPDIF that you can use for Composite video), and Dual outputs for everything you input. You can also use a learning remote with it. The PQ is excellent. And if you don't like Radio
Shack has a great return policy.

I posted the same thing 1 page back.

Look my projector is about 30 feet away which means I need around 50 feet of cable. Those passive switchers is not going to cut it if you are using this long wires. They are fine for shorter runs.

This will amplify the signal so you get fewer degradation on your PQ.

This is not true. Powered switchboxes are notorious for introducing unwanted artifacts into your video signal. I also use 50' lengths of component with a passive switchbox from Radio Shack and it works without any problems at all.

This is not true. Powered switchboxes are notorious for introducing unwanted artifacts into your video signal.
I used to think the same thing Smithfarmer, and I asked the designer of the amplified Videostorm switchers about it, and it turns out to be untrue. Amplified switchers are better for longer runs. Here was his response:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=4083940&&#post4083940

FWIW, I use an amplified switch (Inday) and it works great.

:)

EDIT: I should also mention that there was a discussion about amplified vs passive switchers in the original thread, and Kras made the point that for a 480p display, the performance degration of cheapo passive switches is not visible. So for the 4805 passive are just fine. With a 720p PJ showing HD material however, performance differences may become visible between the 2 types of switchers.

I'd provide a link to the discussion, but I'm on my way out the door. Just search for Inday in the original thread, look for my preachy posts about amplified switchers, and find the post where Kras shot me down! :D

Curtis and Geno -- I am probably going to check out Radio Shack to see what they've got. I think the problem is that the Pelican seems to be the only "cheap" solution with optical audio, which is the only option for all three consoles (after composite). The only standalone optical switcher I've found is $30 for three sources, which is a bit limited and complicates the setup even more (one more switcher).

Right now I'm back to my old Pelican passive video switch, which I never noticed any picture problems with, aside from occasional scrolling interference lines which go away when I jiggle the cords a bit. I guess I'll just resign myself to doing lots of manual switching and cable swapping until a better solution is available.

I used to think the same thing Smithfarmer, and I asked the designer of the amplified Videostorm switchers about it, and it turns out to be untrue. Amplified switchers are better for longer runs. Here was his response:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=4083940&&#post4083940

FWIW, I use an amplified switch (Inday) and it works great.

:)

EDIT: I should also mention that there was a discussion about amplified vs passive switchers in the original thread, and Kras made the point that for a 480p display, the performance degration of cheapo passive switches is not visible. So for the 4805 passive are just fine. With a 720p PJ showing HD material however, performance differences may become visible between the 2 types of switchers.

I'd provide a link to the discussion, but I'm on my way out the door. Just search for Inday in the original thread, look for my preachy posts about amplified switchers, and find the post where Kras shot me down! :D

Hey Jeff, thanks for the link. Unfortunately, I have a hard time accepting reasons on why I need their product from someone promoting their own brand of spendy switchers.

Very well designed amplified switchers that do not, as kras once said, "pass the signal through unmolested" in a previous discussion we had on the matter, seems to be the exception and not the rule. Way more often than not, the video signal suffers and finding a good one that is reasonably priced isn't easy.

I can totally understand the reasoning why some wants the amplified switcher and I'd imagine the main reason why over 95% of folks go with that option is because of the ability to switch the signal with a remote. That remote controlled switching ability is truly a beautiful thing. :)

Personally, I'd rather not take a chance and will continue to use my passive switcher until I upgrade my receiver for one with HDMI switching in the near future.

But that will be another animal entirely that has it's own set of problems if it isn't implemented correctly. :D

Right now I'm back to my old Pelican passive video switch, which I never noticed any picture problems with, aside from occasional scrolling interference lines which go away when I jiggle the cords a bit. I guess I'll just resign myself to doing lots of manual switching and cable swapping until a better solution is available.


You can try one of these switchers from JeffKB's link and it also is the one mentioned by Xlyon:

http://www.video-storm.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CSM42

It should do every thing you need, but it'll cost ya ;)

I use the radioshack passive one that I got on sale for $49.99 with a 35' component run and notice NO signall loss or PQ loss what-so-ever!

Yeah, the Videostorms look nice -- I was checking those out. But I'm hesitant to spend that much given the fact that I may be switching to HDMI/DVI in the relatively near future, and would still need another switcher for composite (I still do plenty of gaming on a regular TV, which does not have component ins).

Where's the cheap, perfect quality, remote controlled, millions of inputs and outputs of every type box that we consumers want? :) Honestly, this Pelican (which is basically the same as the non-"2.0" pro model they have, with the addition of an LCD screen) is the only one I've seen for under $600 with all the inputs and outputs I want (component AND composite ins and outs for each channel, along with optical audio). Too bad the quality is unacceptable.

Rebate!

Black Friday finaly in. A little warning. Mine showed up as a postcard, not in an envelope, almost looks like an ad flyer.

Yeah, the Videostorms look nice -- I was checking those out. But I'm hesitant to spend that much given the fact that I may be switching to HDMI/DVI in the relatively near future, and would still need another switcher for composite (I still do plenty of gaming on a regular TV, which does not have component ins).

Where's the cheap, perfect quality, remote controlled, millions of inputs and outputs of every type box that we consumers want? :) Honestly, this Pelican (which is basically the same as the non-"2.0" pro model they have, with the addition of an LCD screen) is the only one I've seen for under $600 with all the inputs and outputs I want (component AND composite ins and outs for each channel, along with optical audio). Too bad the quality is unacceptable.

I personally prefer to have this built into my reciever... the newer ones are adding quite a few inputs as well as upscaling and obviously switching...

For those of you who have sent in your 4805 for repair work, did you send it in the original package/box that it came in?

My 4805, sometimes when it first fires up (has been occuring more frequently as it gets older - about a year and half old with 800 hrs on it), has the dreaded color wheel buzz saw action going on. After warming up for 5 minutes, it simply goes away for the rest of the viewing time. My warranty is about up (although I did purchase an extended warranty from an authorized online dealer but I suspect that they just replace it with a refurb), and I suppose I should go ahead and get it fixed.

However, I do not have the original box it came in. I assume that they will honor the warranty even though the original packing is missing. What is the best way to package and ship it?

Rebate!

Black Friday finaly in. A little warning. Mine showed up as a postcard, not in an envelope, almost looks like an ad flyer.

I just got an email that mine is in the mail.

Hello all finally got my first projector 4805 3 weeks ago and just simply amazed with it already 130 hours on it and cant stop using it when i go to watch my 52 inch just isn't the same so i guess i need to start accepting the fact ill half to spend a lot less time on my 4805 or ill be buying a new bulb real soon.Been tyring to fool around with PC resolution to 856x480 just and 4805 keeps telling me its 640x480 im not doing something write.but theres so much information to read cant find the thread for this any help would be great .

Sorry did at that. This is not a ground loop.
Did you try on your friends`house? Or did you try the EMI filter you posted?

Let me know if u have any news about it.

THanks

Hello all finally got my first projector 4805 3 weeks ago and just simply amazed with it already 130 hours on it and cant stop using it when i go to watch my 52 inch just isn't the same so i guess i need to start accepting the fact ill half to spend a lot less time on my 4805 or ill be buying a new bulb real soon.Been tyring to fool around with PC resolution to 856x480 just and 4805 keeps telling me its 640x480 im not doing something write.but theres so much information to read cant find the thread for this any help would be great .

A good place to start is with Ja Phule's FAQ about the 4805. There is a section in it about pixel mapping that will get you started. Do a search on Ja Phule. The URL is in his signature.

Chuck

Do a search on Ja Phule. The URL is in his signature.It's also posted in the first message in this thread. ;)

freakman

Are you running DVI? If you are running VGA, then you will not be able to pixel-map. Try running 1280x720 over VGA. Also, set your 4805 to Native AR.

Wow quick response assume thanks everyone .therealgeno im using DVI that came with unit with the VGA to DVI adapter plunged in to ATi X700 card.

If using the cable that came with it, you are not going digital to digital.
You need a DVI to M1 cable.

thanks mboy well half to pick one up and go from there

Can anyone tell me what would be causing this? See the attached picture of a blank white screen. It started a week or so a go and is gradually getting bigger. I have cleaned the lamp module filters but no help. I've also used some air in a can on the color wheel, no avail.

Thanks,
Samplehead

Samplehead, I have the exact same thing, but my discolorization is in the upper left hane corner across the top. It is MUCH less noticable than yours. I have heard it has to do with the light path. Something about a tube with mirrors glued together. Over time the glue burns and the mirror panels start to collapse. This is a VERY poor quality design if true. I've just been too lazy to send it back yet for warranty work.

ARrrghh... so I got some lense cleaning wipes at walmart and someone earlier mentioned they had had good luck with them... well I had horrible film left on my lense after (when off it looked clean but when on you could see a massive haze with swirl marks...

I tried to go at it with a dry lense cleaning cloth that is made for eye glasses and it removed it somewhat but can't get it all off... it's like a very thin coat of oil or something that just won't come off!

Tomorrow I am off to a real camera store to buy whatever is best (I seem to recall zeiss cleaning kits?) but I am worried that in this process I have damaged or scratched the lense... I recall a lot of mention of residue from cleaning kits but I am having troulbe tracking down the best way to avoid or remove it... any suggestions?

When I start up my 4805, it makes a noise similar to a bandsaw but on a much smaller scale. Evereything still works fine and i only happens for about the first 20-30 seconds. Could it be a wobbly fan or is there a dust buildup spot I should look for? Thanks in advance.

When I start up my 4805, it makes a noise similar to a bandsaw but on a much smaller scale.The "buzz saw" you hear is a noisy colour-wheel. Get it replaced before your unit goes out of warranty or be prepared to spend big bucks.

Switcher review:

I bought the Pelican/Performance/Score System Selector Pro 2.0 (the one with the LCD screen) for $70 at Buy.com after some coupons. I think the same item is re-branded by various distributors.

Plugged in HD cable box, Xbox, 360, and PS2, all through both component and composite (obviously when switching to TV I'd need to switch cables on the game systems). Three of those used optical audio as well. Composite out to TV, component out to Infocus 4805 projector.

Watched a movie and whenever there was a sudden flash, like an explosion, the screen would get weird momentarily, like the projector lost sync for a split second. Did it on several movies. To make sure, I plugged the Xbox (which I was using as the dvd player) direct into the projector and played the same scenes, and they played back fine, so this was definitely an issue with the selector.

Also noticed some ghosting on Xbox dashboard and DVE calibration disc through Xbox. Also, the brightness was way screwed up -- my 4805 was calibrated before with DVE to contrast/brightness of 57/49; with the selector in the chain, it calibrated to 40/49 (had to turn contrast way down).

So, basically, this thing is useless for me, unfortunately. My only option, I guess, is to spend more than twice as much on something like the Audio Authority 1154a (almost 1/3 what I paid for the projector itself) and get a second switcher for composite, and then have to shell out again eventually when everything's got HDMI or DVI. It's too bad this thing sucks, because the convenience of having component, optical, and composite inputs and outputs all in one box, all remote-controllable, was very nice.

I have heard good things about the Joytech on another thread. No signal or PQ loss and it looks and have almost them same features as the one you noted above (Pelican/Performance/Score System Selector Pro 2.0 ).

Not at all - why if I was doing that I would have asked to see the holiday decorations version of the install!!!! :eek: :eek:
We don't do a holiday version - but it's not a bad idea!

And the very reason it's a silk plant is so the wife won't water it!

:p

Does anyone know of a surge protector that plugs directly to an outlet (No trailing cord) that has an on/off switch? It seems only the ones that reside on the floor have one. The reason is I am looking into alternatives for hitting the side switch on the 4805. I have it plugged into an outlet on the ceiling. I used a radio shack plug-n-power until after a power outage I came home to find the pj had been on for over 9 hours. Installing a switch before the outlet won't work(read earlier in forum that someone did this), I think, because the outlet is before the ones on the wall for a/v equipt. What other solutions have people tried? Short of yanking the plug, of course. I, like another poster, am learly of causing undo movement to the ceiling mount. Thanks.

Anyone using an aftermarket remote for their 4805?


Also, has anyone ever found an affordable remote that will transmit delayed commands? What I mean is since for some unseen reason InFocus did not include an auto-off timer on the 4805 (which seems like they could have virtually for free since it would be just a few lines of code) I need some way to automatically shut it down when I fall asleep in front of it.

I can hack together a kludge using a "real" 4805 remote and a scabbed on circuit, but would rather just find a remote that would allow me to press say: Delay, 60 minutes, Power

Then after an hour it would issue the Power command, shutting the PJ down.

Anyone using an aftermarket remote for their 4805?


Also, has anyone ever found an affordable remote that will transmit delayed commands? What I mean is since for some unseen reason InFocus did not include an auto-off timer on the 4805 (which seems like they could have virtually for free since it would be just a few lines of code) I need some way to automatically shut it down when I fall asleep in front of it.

I can hack together a kludge using a "real" 4805 remote and a scabbed on circuit, but would rather just find a remote that would allow me to press say: Delay, 60 minutes, Power

Then after an hour it would issue the Power command, shutting the PJ down.

I use a harmony 520 Not sure if it will do this however. The remote is affordable at $99.

Anyone using an aftermarket remote for their 4805?


Also, has anyone ever found an affordable remote that will transmit delayed commands? What I mean is since for some unseen reason InFocus did not include an auto-off timer on the 4805 (which seems like they could have virtually for free since it would be just a few lines of code) I need some way to automatically shut it down when I fall asleep in front of it.

I can hack together a kludge using a "real" 4805 remote and a scabbed on circuit, but would rather just find a remote that would allow me to press say: Delay, 60 minutes, Power

Then after an hour it would issue the Power command, shutting the PJ down.
From the manual (pdf on infocus site):
The projector automatically displays a black screen after no active source is
detected for 30 minutes. This black screen helps preserve the life of the projector.
The image returns when an active source is detected or a remote or
keypad button is pressed.
Screen Save
You can make the black screen appear after a preset number of minutes by
turning on the Screen Save feature in the Settings>System menu. See
page 38.
Power Save
The projector also has a Power Save feature that automatically turns the
lamp off after no active sources are detected and no user interaction with
the projector is performed for 20 minutes. By default, this feature is off.

I haven't used the feature myself as I want it completely powered off.

My 4805 is now showing dust blobs on the screen and beyond it is only 2 months old...do I need to send this to infocus...This is not a refurb unit, So I do have a 2 year warranty but not sure if this is covered...or should I attempt to remove the blobs myself?

My 4805 is now showing dust blobs on the screen and beyond it is only 2 months old...do I need to send this to infocus...This is not a refurb unit, So I do have a 2 year warranty but not sure if this is covered...or should I attempt to remove the blobs myself?
You can try this link for cleaning it(from the 4805 faq):
http://japhule.collinsreport.com/4805FAQ/html/index.html#Q22
Not sure on the warranty.

I believe dust blob cleaning will void your warranty...

In case anyone is hesitant...

I cleaned my unit for the second time, color wheel for the first time. (About 1500 hours on the unit) I had a lot more dust build up on one screen than last time, almost 50-75% blocked. Lots of dust inside. I decided to forgo caution and pulled out the can of compressed air and my shop vac (which probably makes many of you cringe). I put the shop vac at the back vent (which is normally intake for the unit) and thoroughly blasted the inside of the unti with compresses air. I worked the nozzle(tube) carefully into various cracks and crevices as well as the 2 internal fans. I also focused the air on and around the hub of the color wheel.

To clean the color wheel, I used long stemmed foam swabs from partsexpressdotcom which are actually a long tipped qtip. I used a few drops of the same Pearl Vision lens cleaner I use on my polycarbonate eyeglasses (doesn't smear). I used the eraser end of a pencil to spin the hub (touching only the brass hub itself). I cleaned perpendicularly to the direction of spin first, then for last pass I used the swab like a phonograph arm, lightly floating over the color wheel while spinning, slowly moving to the outer edge.

I then took a swab and broke it at an angle and gingerly cleaned the back of the color wheel as best I could (not really dirty). I cleaned the small glass aperature at the lamp as well as the front of the lens and ND2 Filter.

Results? How about:
-Dramatically increased color saturation (color wheel film must have been fogging the image up). Everything pops again
-No dust blobs, smears, shadows, nada
-Best of all, no color wheel micro buzz saw. I am firmly convinced mine was caused by dust working into the hub of the color wheel..or possibly heat buildup warping the color wheel slightly. It was doing it every startup prior to cleaning.

I hadn't told my wife I was cleaning it and she noticed the improvements immediately.

So, hats off to Infocus, not really a big deal, glad to be rid of the buzz saw sound. I will clean more frequently now that I know.

Tradewinds, thanks for the tip on the Joytech. The weird thing is all the Google hits for it are for PAL versions, almost entirely in New Zealand or Australia. Froogle turns up only two hits, and one, oddly enough, is Best Buy in the US -- the link takes me there and lets me add it to the cart, despite the fact that when I searched Best Buy's page for it earlier, it turned up no results. I might give this one a try, though I suspect it will be virtually identical to the Pelican in quality (in fact I wouldn't be surprised if it were the same unit rebranded).

curttard, yes, BB here in the USA have it but as you mentioned does not return in their Search. Please let us know if it is the same thing or how it works. I am planning on buying one based on the threads here that recommend it but will like to know if the 4805 have the issues with it you mentioned about the Pelican.

Actually it must not be the same thing -- the joytech has 4 optical inputs (nice!) and 3 ethernet, as opposed to the Pelican/Performance/Score which has 3 optical and 4 ethernet.

I did read in a thread on a gaming forum from a poster who bought both the Joytech and the Pelican 2.0, and ended up returning the Joytech and keeping the Pelican.

By the way, if you search for "240 control center" at bestbuy.com, it will show up. For some reason even though Joytech is in the item title, it does not return any search hits.

Thanks for the input guys.

Govschmo, I know about the shutdown on loss of signal feature but it doesn't do what I need. The source (DISH receiver) will continue to output a signal until I manually turn it off. All I really need on the 4805 is a sleep timer like every TV I have owned for the past 10 years has (even that $89 job we use in the kitchen)

I'll check the Harmony out homer1963, but my thought of affordable is like $30 or less. Not that I am a tightass, just not much $$ laying around.

I did read in a thread on a gaming forum from a poster who bought both the Joytech and the Pelican 2.0, and ended up returning the Joytech and keeping the Pelican.



I wonder if this was due to PQ or just asthetics and/or features.

I made the STUPID, BONEHEADED mistake of cleaning my 4805 with a spray air can, and now I have gray spots on my picture. It's not that bad, only visible on totally black scenes - but it is annoying to me. I KEEP LOOKING AT THAT SPOT!

I contacted Infocus and they said they could clean it for $120, but I have to ship it to them. I wonder what else are my options. Are there any local shops (in the North Texas area) that do this?

Yes, I know there is a way to do it myself - but I'm not too handy with tools and don't have the patience.

Anybody have suggestions?

why would a spray air can result in gray spots? Just don't want to make the same mistake.

Sounds like you dislodged dust during the cleaning and it found a new home that made it visible on the screen. Perhaps try cleaning again, and perhaps try cleaning again but with a different method?

If I recall, an improved method to have a strong suction from a vacuum or shop vacuum on one side of the air flow, and then use the compressed air on the other side.

I contacted Infocus and they said they could clean it for $120, but I have to ship it to them. I wonder what else are my options. Are there any local shops (in the North Texas area) that do this?

Yes, I know there is a way to do it myself - but I'm not too handy with tools and don't have the patience.

If you don't want to do it yourself, my advice would be to send it to InFocus. A local independant repair shop is probably going to charge just as much and have little or no familiarity with the projector. Plus, if they damage anything during the cleaning process it won't be covered under your warranty. My $.02. :)

Once you get dust on your DMD, my experience is that it stays put. The projector needs to be opened and cleaned out at that point.

If your warranty has expired you can take the unit apart and clean it that way. In order to get to the dmd chip to clean the dust blobs you have to take the lens off and blow it off with compressed air. The DMD itself is sealed so there is no issue with damaging by blowing on it.

I know it sounds "scary" but I helped my buddy take his x1 apart and it was EASY so long as you are careful and don't try to force anything in the process. Also, when you take the unit apart you can get to the other side of the color wheel and clean it as well. you would be surprised at how disgustingly dirty the back side of the color wheel is after a few thousand hours.

Thanks for the input guys.

Govschmo, I know about the shutdown on loss of signal feature but it doesn't do what I need. The source (DISH receiver) will continue to output a signal until I manually turn it off. All I really need on the 4805 is a sleep timer like every TV I have owned for the past 10 years has (even that $89 job we use in the kitchen)

I'll check the Harmony out homer1963, but my thought of affordable is like $30 or less. Not that I am a tightass, just not much $$ laying around.
The radio shack plug I used would do just that, It had a clock timer (the device even looks like an alarm clock) to set on/off times, With the primary benefit being to turn the pj off remotely and the price is less than < 30 you mentioned above. I don't know of any other feature than the off after no signal on the pj that even comes close to what you want though. If the dish reciever had a powersave mode that clicked off, would that allow the pj to recognise a loss of signal? Just a thought.

My sony all-in-one can store timers, but the price puts it out.

Thanks for the input guys.

Govschmo, I know about the shutdown on loss of signal feature but it doesn't do what I need. The source (DISH receiver) will continue to output a signal until I manually turn it off. All I really need on the 4805 is a sleep timer like every TV I have owned for the past 10 years has (even that $89 job we use in the kitchen)

I'll check the Harmony out homer1963, but my thought of affordable is like $30 or less. Not that I am a tightass, just not much $$ laying around.

Would your dish receiver happen to have a sleep timer of its own (edit: as govschmo mentioned)? My Pioneer receiver has a sleep timer also, so if I was feeding my video through it, the 4805 would lose the signal should the receiver be shut off. Just another suggestion...

The "buzz saw" you hear is a noisy colour-wheel. Get it replaced before your unit goes out of warranty or be prepared to spend big bucks.

I just opened the Lamp Bay and cleaned out the dust filters and I cleaned out the space where the lamp goes.

Thanks for the near heart attack though ;)

I just opened the Lamp Bay and cleaned out the dust filters and I cleaned out the space where the lamp goes.

Thanks for the near heart attack though ;)


How did you clean the filters, with a car vacuum, compressed air or something? Can you do this with the projector on the mount, or did you have to take it down?

I am approaching 250 hrs and am dreading the filter cleaning, I know people have gone way beyond that and have even cleaned the color wheel and the dust blobs but I am just too scared to open it up and worried about screwing up something in the process.

I guess noobies need a Pictorial guide for the filter cleaning as well.

How did you clean the filters, with a car vacuum, compressed air or something? Can you do this with the projector on the mount, or did you have to take it down?

I am approaching 250 hrs and am dreading the filter cleaning, I know people have gone way beyond that and have even cleaned the color wheel and the dust blobs but I am just too scared to open it up and worried about screwing up something in the process.

I guess noobies need a Pictorial guide for the filter cleaning as well.

Well, my way was not the safest but I was carefull. I would advise you to listen to what the more experienced members here suggest for cleaning for 4805.

I took my 4805 off the ceiling mount and let it sit for 30 minutes (to let the lamp cool). Then I took off the Lamp bay door. Go to the infocus website and look at the 4805 FAQ for instructions how to get it off if you don't know how to do this.

I took out the Lamp Bay and with my house vacuum that has a small hose I cleaned the dust filters on the side of the bulb. I DID NOT MAKE PHYSICAL CONTACT WITH THE BULB OR ITS VENTS. The vacuum was powerful enough to lift the dust from 1.5 - 2 inches away. Then I looked in where the bulb goes and i carefully got the loose dust out of the bay. This whole time I was holding on to the Lamp and I made sure to only make contact with the peices of plastic you are suppose to touch when you take it out.

Cataphract

I am not a very skilled man - I do stupid things. I too dreaded the filter cleaning.

BUT, it is the easiest thing in the world to do. I assure you, if I can do it, then you can do it. I have yet, however, garnered up the balls to clean the color wheel.

And I'll try asking again how many of you have shipped your 4805s. I do not have my original package/box it came in. What is the best way to ship and package it? I would appreciate any help on the matter.

And I'll try asking again how many of you have shipped your 4805s. I do not have my original package/box it came in. What is the best way to ship and package it? I would appreciate any help on the matter.

Infocus sends with the RMA a description of how the projector should be packaged for shipment. I still had the orig packaging so only read over it quickly, but essentially the PJ had to be completely surrounded with styrofoam peanuts but can't recall if it was three or six inches all around. I'd seal it in a bag as well just in case someone along the way decides to have a piss on the box.

You are not required to send anything but the projector but if you leave the lens cap on tape a note to the PJ note stating the lens cap is included.

BUT..... I don't believe Infocus will accept any deliveries for service which are not accompanied by an RMA# so you'll need to contact them for this in which case you will receive all the neccessary shipping/packing info and necessary "included items" form section to fill out.

You can contact them here.

Service Request Form (http://www.infocus.com/service/contact_support/request/request.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&)

Hugh2

Many thanks for the reply.

I just upgraded my X1 to a 4805 less than 2 weeks ago. The image looks great and all, but at the exact same screen size (about 8' wide) I'm seeing lots of SDE. It was never a problem with my X1.

I did some searching about the ND2 filter and it sounds like that will reduce the problem, but wouldn't cutting the light output in half to 300 lumens put me below the 350 lumen rating of the X1? It seems to me that this might negate one of the big advantages of the 4805 over the X1. Or is the lumen rating not important compared to the ft lambert rating?

I've been using a misty evening painted wall as my screen for over 2 years now and have never felt the desire to replace it with an actual screen. I'm not sure what the gain is so I'm unable to determine the ft lambert rating of my setup to see what the ND2 would give me. I don't feel that the image is overly bright so I don't really want to buy an ND2 unless I have to, but I don't really want to shrink my screen size either (I've become accustomed to it :) ). Anyone know how I can determine the gain of my wall so I can compare the ft lambert rating of my old x1 to the 4805?

I know this has probably come up many times before, but with all the info in these mega threads it's really difficult to find the exact info you're looking for, so thanks in advance for taking the time to reply yet again regarding this.

Hi joekun - after using an X1 for a while, when I switched to the 4805 I noticed more SDE also. For sure, the extra brightness of the 4805 is a major cause of this. The higher contrast of the new chip is also a contributor however - the differential between the dark grid lines and white is greater, and therefore SDE is increased.

Here's my take on your issue:

You were using a 110" diagonal grey screen on a relatively dim PJ (the X1), which means you were used to a dim image. As you mention, the X1 is around 300 - 350 lumens, and a misty mountain painted screen is sure to be negative gain, so you were probably getting Ft-L in the range of 7 - 8 with the X1, and that assumes a new(ish) bulb. This is well below the recommended 12 - 16 Ft-L. With an older bulb it's very possible you were getting Ft-L substantially lower than that. Images that dim hide a multitude of sins, SDE included. Because of the brightness and contrast of the 4805, SDE is now more emphasized than before.

How close do you sit to the screen? My guess is you're well short of the 2x recommended width. Since you're used to that size image, your only option may be to try out an ND2 filter (as you mentioned) and see if that helps. Your brightness will be about the same (likely better) as you're used to with the X1, but you'll still get the color saturation and contrast advantages of the 4805.

Thanks much Jeff, your post gave me a lot to think about. Now that I've seen the brighter image I will have a hard time going back. You're correct about my seating distance, it's about 1.5X screen width. I think I will try to reduce the screen size a little bit at a time and see what I can do rather than reducing the brightness by half (down to probably 7-8 Ft-L I would guess). If I reduce the screen size to 6' my seating will be at exactly 2x screen width, but hopefully I can find a happy medium.

Can you channel surf w/ a 4805? My set up loses sync...

I Primarily use my 4805 for DvD movies through Component. I've watched some cable TV by using a VCR. The Picture is good considering it's standard cable... but when I change channels the 4805 loses sync and the picture goes black for 5-10 seconds and then adjusts and comes on. This doesn't work for Channel surfing.

Is this normal?

If I get digital cable will this go away? (better signal?)

I disabled Autosource & I tried messing w/ the sync threshhold... no help.

I'm thinking of getting rid of my TV if I can get rid of this problem.

Thanks,
RD

I think I will try to reduce the screen size a little bit at a time and see what I can do rather than reducing the brightness by half ... If I reduce the screen size to 6' my seating will be at exactly 2x screen width.If, for sake of discussion, your painted wall had a gain of 0.8 (reasonable guess) then your 8ft wide image has a brightness of 13.3fL with the SP4805. This is pretty much dead on where you want it.

Reducing your screen size to 6ft wide, the brightness will almost double to 23.7fL; in this case you would definitely be a candidate for an ND2 filter !!

Reducing your screen size to 6ft wide, the brightness will almost double to 23.7fL; in this case you would definitely be a candidate for an ND2 filter !!

I'm hoping my compromise size will be more in the 7' to 7.5' range, but I'll just have to see.

I was watching TV a few hours ago, and my beloved 4805 turned off ... fan kept running, bulb out, red LED blinking in threes. I turned it off and let it sit for well over half an hour while I read the manual and this forum.

I have been working on getting it mounted on the ceiling, so I have been moving it around a fair amount lately, and I have been drilling into the ceiling, so it's possible the filters have accumulated a bunch of dust. Recently I saw that the lamp hours were around 800, so it shouldn't be at the end of its lifespan. Also after moving it around it was placed differently and may not have been ventilating well - it did seem quite hot, but I don't know whether it was hotter than usual.

After reading up I cleaned the filters with my vacuum - one side was pretty dusty, other side fairly clean.

Replaced bulb housing and replaced door. Turned on. Now I get the five attempts to strike the bulb (fan sounds normal) and then the red LED blinking in single blinks. The manual says to check for loose connections - I did, and I don't think there are any.

Is there anything else I should try before taking this back to Costco (thank god I bought it there)? Does Costco even still carry the 4805?

thanks,
-huge

Thanks much Jeff, your post gave me a lot to think about. Now that I've seen the brighter image I will have a hard time going back. You're correct about my seating distance, it's about 1.5X screen width. I think I will try to reduce the screen size a little bit at a time and see what I can do rather than reducing the brightness by half (down to probably 7-8 Ft-L I would guess). If I reduce the screen size to 6' my seating will be at exactly 2x screen width, but hopefully I can find a happy medium.


Try for a 100" dia picture and maybe consider a different diy screen. Read the Untreated Do-able thread in the diy screen section. I sit about the same distance as you from the screen around 13-14' and my image is fantastic. You can install a 49" X87" screen and frame for around $50.

joekun - if you don't mind spending $400, this (http://www.panamorph.com/cygnus/index.htm) guy will eliminate your SDE from 1.5 widths. :)

Try remounting the lamp again.

I think there was something to screwing the lamp in and it getting scued(sp).

Open the door, disconnect and remove the lamp.
Then replace the lamp and screw in each screw until you see the lamp housing move in, then move to the other screw. Repeat this until the lamp it full seated.

Make sure you make a full connection when plugging it back in, and replce the door fully.

Hope this helps

Sean

Well, my way was not the safest but I was carefull. I would advise you to listen to what the more experienced members here suggest for cleaning for 4805.

I took my 4805 off the ceiling mount and let it sit for 30 minutes (to let the lamp cool). Then I took off the Lamp bay door. Go to the infocus website and look at the 4805 FAQ for instructions how to get it off if you don't know how to do this.

I took out the Lamp Bay and with my house vacuum that has a small hose I cleaned the dust filters on the side of the bulb. I DID NOT MAKE PHYSICAL CONTACT WITH THE BULB OR ITS VENTS. The vacuum was powerful enough to lift the dust from 1.5 - 2 inches away. Then I looked in where the bulb goes and i carefully got the loose dust out of the bay. This whole time I was holding on to the Lamp and I made sure to only make contact with the peices of plastic you are suppose to touch when you take it out.


Thanks CFH - so I guess home Vacuum is safe to use for lamp cleaning. I was going to try first with the car vac, but I don't think it will have enough suction power.

I did look at the Infocus FAQ and it is 'Minimal' information to put it mildly.

These are the instructions they have for removing the lamp in the PDF file

"1) Remove the lamp housing."

Wow genius isn't it? I guess they think that is enough information for most customers since they were born with handyman skills.

The manual however does have instructions on replacing the lamp housing which is right before the maintenance page so it makes sense not to repeat the information. However, the pdf file alone that is in the FAQ is kind of useless if you ask me.

And btw, we have been spoiled by people posting detailed instructions and step by step pictures of the color wheel and the dust blob cleaning, now that was amazing - so I guess my expectations were too high.

I will try it and hopefully it should not be as painful.

Thanks Geno for the encouragement, my biggest accomplishment so far after buying a house has been replacing a garbage disposal on my own, so you can see where I am coming from.

Well...... I also made the Monkey man mount and installed the PJ so that ranks second.

Thanks CFH - so I guess home Vacuum is safe to use for lamp cleaning. I was going to try first with the car vac, but I don't think it will have enough suction power.

I did look at the Infocus FAQ and it is 'Minimal' information to put it mildly.

These are the instructions they have for removing the lamp in the PDF file

"1) Remove the lamp housing."

Wow genius isn't it? I guess they think that is enough information for most customers since they were born with handyman skills.

The manual however does have instructions on replacing the lamp housing which is right before the maintenance page so it makes sense not to repeat the information. However, the pdf file alone that is in the FAQ is kind of useless if you ask me.

And btw, we have been spoiled by people posting detailed instructions and step by step pictures of the color wheel and the dust blob cleaning, now that was amazing - so I guess my expectations were too high.

I will try it and hopefully it should not be as painful.

Thanks Geno for the encouragement, my biggest accomplishment so far after buying a house has been replacing a garbage disposal on my own, so you can see where I am coming from.

Well...... I also made the Monkey man mount and installed the PJ so that ranks second.


Sounds like your handyman skills are on par with mine :-)

Can build/fix PC in my sleep (hardware and OS), but that's the extent of it for the most part!

Thanks CFH - so I guess home Vacuum is safe to use for lamp cleaning. I was going to try first with the car vac, but I don't think it will have enough suction power.

I did look at the Infocus FAQ and it is 'Minimal' information to put it mildly.

These are the instructions they have for removing the lamp in the PDF file

"1) Remove the lamp housing."

Wow genius isn't it? I guess they think that is enough information for most customers since they were born with handyman skills.

The manual however does have instructions on replacing the lamp housing which is right before the maintenance page so it makes sense not to repeat the information. However, the pdf file alone that is in the FAQ is kind of useless if you ask me.

And btw, we have been spoiled by people posting detailed instructions and step by step pictures of the color wheel and the dust blob cleaning, now that was amazing - so I guess my expectations were too high.

I will try it and hopefully it should not be as painful.

Thanks Geno for the encouragement, my biggest accomplishment so far after buying a house has been replacing a garbage disposal on my own, so you can see where I am coming from.

Well...... I also made the Monkey man mount and installed the PJ so that ranks second.

You know to actually take the whole lamp assembly out of the pj for the filter cleaning, right? I just take mine out, bring it upstairs, vacuum it where I can see well, and then put it back.

I know that there was a pictoral guide to lamp filter cleaning in the original thread- I'll try to find it. . .

Wes

You know to actually take the whole lamp assembly out of the pj for the filter cleaning, right? I just take mine out, bring it upstairs, vacuum it where I can see well, and then put it back.

I know that there was a pictoral guide to lamp filter cleaning in the original thread- I'll try to find it. . .

Wes

Here you go, with pictures: (I think it was originally for the X1, but it looks identical)

4805 filter cleaning with pics (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=2952258)

Wes

ps Japhule, maybe this should be linked in the FAQ if it's not already. . .

You know to actually take the whole lamp assembly out of the pj for the filter cleaning, right?



I have not had the need to do that as of yet, however, I did go through the user manual page where they have some instructions on removing it, so hopefully that is all I need to know.


I know that there was a pictoral guide to lamp filter cleaning in the original thread- I'll try to find it. . .

Wes

Now that would be great. I tried searching but with no luck...if you find it, we can ask JaPhule to add that to his FAQ.

Here you go, with pictures: (I think it was originally for the X1, but it looks identical)

4805 filter cleaning with pics (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=2952258)

Wes

ps Japhule, maybe this should be linked in the FAQ if it's not already. . .


That is great Wes!

Thanks.

Once you get proficient at lamp cleaning, you don't even need to take the PJ down. Just pop out the lamp, clean it, and put it back. That way you don't have to realign with your screen or risk getting a dust blob from moving the projector.
:)

Once you get proficient at lamp cleaning, you don't even need to take the PJ down. Just pop out the lamp, clean it, and put it back. That way you don't have to realign with your screen or risk getting a dust blob from moving the projector.
:)

Why didn't I think of that? Thanks for the tip Jeff.

Once you get proficient at lamp cleaning, you don't even need to take the PJ down. Just pop out the lamp, clean it, and put it back. That way you don't have to realign with your screen or risk getting a dust blob from moving the projector.
:)

That's what I meant by my earlier post. I don't take the PJ down, way too much of a pain!

Here you go, with pictures: (I think it was originally for the X1, but it looks identical)

4805 filter cleaning with pics (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=2952258)

Wes

ps Japhule, maybe this should be linked in the FAQ if it's not already. . .


There is also different one in the faq, for the 4805 specifically, but it takes a while to load with all of the pics.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=556431

Edit: Sorry, that's the dust blob one.

joekun - if you don't mind spending $400, this guy will eliminate your SDE from 1.5 widths.

That's pretty cool, but price wise a bit impractical given the cost of my projector. Ultimately I just need a higher res PJ, but like many others I'm holding out until 1080p is available in the price range that this forum addresses.

Try for a 100" dia picture and maybe consider a different diy screen. Read the Untreated Do-able thread in the diy screen section. I sit about the same distance as you from the screen around 13-14' and my image is fantastic. You can install a 49" X87" screen and frame for around $50.

Thanks, I'll take a look.

Hi all, I have a 4805 that I've been projecting on the DYI black out cloth screen I used with my X1. My brother is now going to purchase a 4805 as well, but he wants a pull down screen in the 106" diagonal range. Since I just have my DYI screen, I really haven't done much research on screens for the 4805. Wondering what screens people are using and whether there is any concensus on best screens for the 4805. He was looking at a Graywolf screen that is 1.8 gain and I'm thinking that might be too much gain - 32 FL, but then again he will have some ambient light.

I know I should read the threads, do some searches and my own research, but he needs to make a decision fairly quickly, and I just don't have time right now to do the research.

Any input would be appreciated. Thanks

joekun - if you don't mind spending $400, this (http://www.panamorph.com/cygnus/index.htm) guy will eliminate your SDE from 1.5 widths. :)

Cheaper alternative:

Put your finger on focus ring

Rotate ring 1 inch

See if SD is gone

If not repeat.

Cheaper alternative:

Put your finger on focus ring

Push ring 1 inch

See if SD is gone

If not repeat.

Are you serious? Will this cause any damage? Will have to give it a try. I had no idea that the focus ring goes in by just pushing.

Hi all, I have a 4805 that I've been projecting on the DYI black out cloth screen I used with my X1. My brother is now going to purchase a 4805 as well, but he wants a pull down screen in the 106" diagonal range. Since I just have my DYI screen, I really haven't done much research on screens for the 4805. Wondering what screens people are using and whether there is any concensus on best screens for the 4805. He was looking at a Graywolf screen that is 1.8 gain and I'm thinking that might be too much gain - 32 FL, but then again he will have some ambient light.

I know I should read the threads, do some searches and my own research, but he needs to make a decision fairly quickly, and I just don't have time right now to do the research.

Any input would be appreciated. Thanks

What viewing angles does he need for his room. High gain reduces the viewing angle. I have a standard Dalite pull down screen and I am very happy with it. My room has a lot of light but I do have room darkening shades if I need them.

I know that quite a few started out with a standard screen like what I did and then upgraded at a later date. My screen was custiom made and was about $100. Have not wanted to upgrade it but that maybe because I have not seen other set ups. :p

Are you serious? Will this cause any damage? Will have to give it a try. I had no idea that the focus ring goes in by just pushing.

No not push in... should have said rotate...

Basically defocus your pj by a little bit gets rid of SDE.

Are you serious? Will this cause any damage? Will have to give it a try. I had no idea that the focus ring goes in by just pushing.

I'm just butting in because I don't want you to hurt your PJ...

I'm pretty sure he doesn't mean "Push In" the ring... BUT just move it slightly left or right. It takes it just slightly out of focus and the SDE goes away. It makes the picture look a little "Smoother" than sharp.

RD

When watching TV (cable), Does your 4805 lose connection for a few seconds and then sets up the image when changing channels?

Sometimes when I just move one number away (ch.4 to ch.5) it stays, but if I click through more channels it goes to a blank screen and then "sets up image".

Is this normal or most likely just my setup?

Thanks,
RD

If you don't know that this thread exist... here's a link. I'm pretty happy w/ my 92" Graywolf. I have my PJ ceiling mounted & the GW is definitely more vibrant when table mounted. If it's too bright get a ND2 filter (so I've read).

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=557382

Good Luck,
RD


Hi all, I have a 4805 that I've been projecting on the DYI black out cloth screen I used with my X1. My brother is now going to purchase a 4805 as well, but he wants a pull down screen in the 106" diagonal range. Since I just have my DYI screen, I really haven't done much research on screens for the 4805. Wondering what screens people are using and whether there is any concensus on best screens for the 4805. He was looking at a Graywolf screen that is 1.8 gain and I'm thinking that might be too much gain - 32 FL, but then again he will have some ambient light.

I know I should read the threads, do some searches and my own research, but he needs to make a decision fairly quickly, and I just don't have time right now to do the research.

Any input would be appreciated. Thanks

Try remounting the lamp again.

I think there was something to screwing the lamp in and it getting scued(sp).

Open the door, disconnect and remove the lamp.
Then replace the lamp and screw in each screw until you see the lamp housing move in, then move to the other screw. Repeat this until the lamp it full seated.

Make sure you make a full connection when plugging it back in, and replce the door fully.

Hope this helps

Sean

Maxim - thanks so much for the reply. Sadly, remounting the lamp didn't help. It seems like everything fits and conects very well and firmly. I didn't quite understand your directions about going back and forth from one screw to the other - on mine it seems like the lamp assembly is fully seated as soon as I place it back in the enclosure, and tightening in the screws just holds it there (so I didn't ever "see the lamp housing move in"). Anyway, after removing and replacing the lamp assembly, I still get the same result - 5 attempts to strike the bulb, followed by the red 3-blinking LED.

If anyone has any other suggestions before I return my 4805 to Costco, let me know. Is there a way to tell visually if the lamp has died?

thanks,
-huge

Maxim - thanks so much for the reply. Sadly, remounting the lamp didn't help. It seems like everything fits and conects very well and firmly. I didn't quite understand your directions about going back and forth from one screw to the other - on mine it seems like the lamp assembly is fully seated as soon as I place it back in the enclosure, and tightening in the screws just holds it there (so I didn't ever "see the lamp housing move in"). Anyway, after removing and replacing the lamp assembly, I still get the same result - 5 attempts to strike the bulb, followed by the red 3-blinking LED.

If anyone has any other suggestions before I return my 4805 to Costco, let me know. Is there a way to tell visually if the lamp has died?

thanks,
-huge

The manual lists what the blinking behavior means.

The manual lists what the blinking behavior means.

you're correct - the manual says I should check for loose connections, but I've done that and haven't found any. I'll keep looking, and maybe I'll try removing and replacing the lamp assembly a couple more times. But I'm still happy to put the question out there in case someone else has any other suggestions.

p.s. I mis-typed in my reply to MaximAvs - the *original* problem was that the lamp shut off and the projector's LED was blinking in groups of three. Now when I turn it on it attempts to strike the bulb 5 times and then blinks singly. The manual-suggested-response is to check the lamp door and lamp assembly for loose connections. I've done that to the best of my ability, but maybe someone knows of a specific connection that can come loose or that can be checked in a way I haven't thought of.

Thanks...

Im getting no picture out of my 4805.

i checked the led light on the projector ...

It appears to be functioning normally..
1. green for a few seconds
2. blinking green for a few seconds .. as its starting up
3. solid green after that.

So according to the manual there is no problem.

HOWEVER...

1. obviously Something is wrong.
2. i pulled out the lamp enclosure. I noticed towards the centre area of the reflective part of the lamp there were some spirally marks in the surface. and a bit of roughing up. is this normal? ive never seen a bulb before. I also noticed a few little bits of silver tinsel stuck in the air filter.

If the lamp has failed why wont my 4805 flash red like its supposed to? What does a failed lamp look like?

Thanks
Luke

need help if you look at the far left of my image and the bottom edge just right of the center you will see what looks like burn marks any idea what this is or how to fix/prevent it from getting worse?

When watching TV (cable), Does your 4805 lose connection for a few seconds and then sets up the image when changing channels?

Sometimes when I just move one number away (ch.4 to ch.5) it stays, but if I click through more channels it goes to a blank screen and then "sets up image".

Is this normal or most likely just my setup?

Thanks,
RD

Yes. I have my HD box set up to pass-through. So everytime there is a resolution change, the 4805 must re-sync. No big deal.

You will not be able to channel surf on the 4805 like you would a regular TV.

need help if you look at the far left of my image and the bottom edge just right of the center you will see what looks like burn marks any idea what this is or how to fix/prevent it from getting worse?

I thought you had to have at least 5 posts before you could attach anything?

need help if you look at the far left of my image and the bottom edge just right of the center you will see what looks like burn marks any idea what this is or how to fix/prevent it from getting worse?

That's exactly what's happening to my 4805. See my post just a few days ago here

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6963232&&#post6963232

Hope we can get some definitive help on this...

Best,
Samplehead

When watching TV (cable), Does your 4805 lose connection for a few seconds and then sets up the image when changing channels?

Sometimes when I just move one number away (ch.4 to ch.5) it stays, but if I click through more channels it goes to a blank screen and then "sets up image".

Is this normal or most likely just my setup?

Thanks,
RD

I watch cable tv on my 4805 through a motorola cable box and also through a tivo. I never get resyncs unless I am chaning resolutions (on hd channels etc).

Cheaper alternative: Put your finger on focus ring, Rotate ring 1 inch, See if SD is gone, If not repeat.

With my X1 there was definitely a sweet spot for getting rid of SDE. I had to move my focus ring very finely to find it, but it worked really well. I tried that with the 4805 but had less luck, probably too much SDE to compensate unless I want to watch out of focus (which I don't).

Unfortunately I've found that at my current mounting position 107" (diagonal) is the smallest I can go, and moving my ceiling mount isn't really an option in my apartment (mounting it was probably a no no to begin with). The SDE issue has improved quite a bit to where I only see it on the brightest of shots, and mostly wide shots at that. Closeups look fine. I may have to move my seating back a foot or two and try again.

If I were to go with a greywolf 106" screen with a gain of 1.8 and an ND2 filter, would my SDE situation improve, or since the overall brightness would be only slightly less would it just end up being the same?

Thanks everyone for all of your suggestions, they are very much appreciated!!

That's exactly what's happening to my 4805. See my post just a few days ago here

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6963232&&#post6963232

Hope we can get some definitive help on this...

I think the only definitive help you're going to get from the forum is the advice to call InFocus so you can return your PJ for repair. Pretty good advice if you ask me. :)

EDIT: Just noticed you're from Down Under. Hopefully you guys have the same 2 year warranty as us in the states.

When watching TV (cable), Does your 4805 lose connection for a few seconds and then sets up the image when changing channels?

Sometimes when I just move one number away (ch.4 to ch.5) it stays, but if I click through more channels it goes to a blank screen and then "sets up image".

Is this normal or most likely just my setup?

Thanks,
RD

I do not have any problem with watching TV either with a SD or HD signal (Dish 811 HD STB). It only re-sync's when I go from Cbl/Sat to DVD or another AVR input. I am using only the HDMI out to DVI-D M1 connection and only have the computer port on the PJ active. I turned off auto for port selection and only have the computer input port check marked.

Just bought this player for $179cndn. Bought it to replace my Samsung HD941 becasue I was generally unimpressed with the picture quality and sunc issues with the 4805. I have it connected via component and HDMI/M1 cables and am using firmware 1.13 with the 4805. I am very very impressed so far with the picture quality in 480i/480p/720p/1080i. I have watched several new copy protected movies (Star wars ep III/ Transported 2/ Vanilla sky/ Blade runner/ Star wars IV Empires strikes back). All movies upconvert to all resolutions via HDMI and component with absolutely NO problems. Compared to the HD941 wich claims all of the same features, tis player blows it out of the water. I was going to try the OPPO but this one was a bit cheaper and no shipping charges. Don't know if its available in the US. In conclusion its awesome with the 4805

PROS: (With the upgraded firmware, HDCP hack, and Macrovision Hack).

Upcoverts to 720p and 1080i over HDMI and Component.
Faroudja DCDi
Gorgeous colors and contrast.
Absolutely no compatibility issues with any movies so far
Plays Divx and most other formats.

CONS:
Upconverting button is on the unit itself and the resolution cannot be changed while movie is playing. Movie will pause when changing resoultions.
Using THX optimiser on star wars DVD's, the contrast test shows one large white rectangle vice 8 smaller white squares. Using other contrast test shows no problems and the contrast in the movies is great. :D

Hope this helps.

I've got the flickering problem with the newest firmware.. should I go back to 1.02 or is it worth trying 1.13? if it is.. anyone got an url?

i hope they're still working on a fix!

To you channel surfers getting resync's on 4805: If surfing is desired without resync, simply set and lock all your source inputs to the same resolution. I've locked my 8300 at 720P and it works fine. Now the picture quality isn't as good on native 480i sources since you're bypassing the 4805 processing with Faroudja but its certainly not bad.

You could do the same for your other sources to match if you have the right equipment.

To you channel surfers getting resync's on 4805: If surfing is desired without resync, simply set and lock all your source inputs to the same resolution. I've locked my 8300 at 720P and it works fine. Now the picture quality isn't as good on native 480i sources since you're bypassing the 4805 processing with Faroudja but its certainly not bad.

You could do the same for your other sources to match if you have the right equipment.


That is the answer. Right on the $$$!
Good advice for those who need it.

I just bought these LINK (http://cgi. ebay dot com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5852272750&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1). They might work, Its worth a try. They were cheap and you never know. I will let you know.
Z26,
Any news about this?

Thanks

Where's the best place currently (as of today) to get a replacement lamp for the 4805? It's looking like out of stock everywhere I look.

thanks...

Last weekend i receive my infocus 4805, long due. I was planning to downgrade my firmware so i will not suffer the lightining problem, but so far it work just fine.

I have a Daewoo DVD player, it's not the best (as far as i haven't see it here), but i really like it because it can play mpg / mp2 files from a CD-RW / DVD-RW (it's amazing to see the latest trailers, Superman, X3).

Anyway i throw it a lot of videos (DVD, VideoCD) and i'm very impressed. I saw Batman Begins and i'm looking forward to this weekend (It will be Star Wars, House of Flying Daggers).

Any suggestions?

Ok so after my bad experience with the walmart cheapo lense wipes I bought a $20 bottle of residue free lense cleaner and some kodak lense papers to try and clean it up...

No go... They leave far less residue but still a definite milkishness.

It's odd because the lense lookse clean after I wipe it with my microfiber cloth, but then a few seconds later (this is with the pj on) it milks up again...

When you look at the lense as well as my nd2 filter you can see a definite white patch like looking at a cloudy tiny tv... i don't notice it particularly on the screen but it's obviously doing quite a bit and I am pretty sure it wasn't nearly that milky before...

How have you guys gotten the film off your lenses? I hope I haven't baked the film on or anything...

Ok so after my bad experience with the walmart cheapo lense wipes I bought a $20 bottle of residue free lense cleaner and some kodak lense papers to try and clean it up...

No go... They leave far less residue but still a definite milkishness.

It's odd because the lense lookse clean after I wipe it with my microfiber cloth, but then a few seconds later (this is with the pj on) it milks up again...

When you look at the lense as well as my nd2 filter you can see a definite white patch like looking at a cloudy tiny tv... i don't notice it particularly on the screen but it's obviously doing quite a bit and I am pretty sure it wasn't nearly that milky before...

How have you guys gotten the film off your lenses? I hope I haven't baked the film on or anything...

Be careful with microfiber cloths on high quality optics. I've crazed my share of anti-reflective glasses lenses with them.

I'd say that unless you have fingerprints on your lenses, you should use a lense brush to get the dust off, or a lense pen. If you are going to use a spray lense cleaner, make sure you use lense cleaning tissue, not regular tissue, and that the lense is not hot.

That said, with an out of the box 4805 you get the little lit up rectangle haze in the center of the lense with the pj running. Are you sure it's any different than it was before?

Wes

I can't be absolutely sure because maybe I am just thinking it's bad... I think if I look closely enough at it I can make out streaks from the microfiber cloth in the haze and if I reclean with it the haze changes it's pattern so I think it's actual residue of some kind.

I only use liquid on the cool lense, however I have used the microfiber while it was on as I figured it couldn't hurt anything.

I took some rather poor pictures when I get home I will post them and see if that's what everyones lense looks like...

As I said I can't notice effect on the screen (it's not blurry) but if it's effecting the pq it is doing it accross the whole screen and the possiblity bothers me (I know OCD).

The thing that really confuses me is how it builds up... it's almost like it's condensing. I will wipe it clean, and the light goes straight through, almost no haze at all, then like breathing on a window it hazes over...

I thought microfiber and photo tissue was safe for lenses? I asked specifically and they said that while the dust might damage the lense the cloth and papers themselves will not.

I am thinking I may pull off the focus lense and see if the zoom lense displays a similar haze as I ahve never cleaned that...

With my X1 there was definitely a sweet spot for getting rid of SDE. I had to move my focus ring very finely to find it, but it worked really well. I tried that with the 4805 but had less luck, probably too much SDE to compensate unless I want to watch out of focus (which I don't).

Unfortunately I've found that at my current mounting position 107" (diagonal) is the smallest I can go, and moving my ceiling mount isn't really an option in my apartment (mounting it was probably a no no to begin with). The SDE issue has improved quite a bit to where I only see it on the brightest of shots, and mostly wide shots at that. Closeups look fine. I may have to move my seating back a foot or two and try again.

If I were to go with a greywolf 106" screen with a gain of 1.8 and an ND2 filter, would my SDE situation improve, or since the overall brightness would be only slightly less would it just end up being the same?

Thanks everyone for all of your suggestions, they are very much appreciated!!
Joekun

I have the set up you are talking about (4805, 106" Graywolf, ND2 filter) and there seems to be less SDE with the ND2 filter. Japhule and others said this would be the case, though I was skeptical on why it would be so. But they're right.

I don't know if it's psychological, if I'm just getting used to the image, or if it's solely the ND2 filter, but in the two weeks since I got the ND2, I've barely ever noticed SDE. It used to bother me on almost all wide shots.

Oh, and I should mention I have my 4805 ceiling mounted about 42" above my head. If yours is ceiling mounted, you won't be getting the full 1.8 gain of the graywolf, so your brightness may decrease. I posted awhile back and asked what the gain would be in this position and most people estimated 1.1 to 1.3.

Give it a try!

-Bud

I watch cable tv on my 4805 through a motorola cable box and also through a tivo. I never get resyncs unless I am chaning resolutions (on hd channels etc).

Another variant....
Upon my recommendation, a friend purchased 4805 and hooked up to the comcast 6200 hd box (set to 1080i) using component. Anytime, there is a bright scene or screen flashes (UFO scenes, swords flashing etc), the projector looses sync. This happens with all HD channels. Changing the box output to 720 the issue remains.

Called comcast and the tech mentioned that they bumped the signal strength. Same behavior. Called infocus, they asked to adjust the sync threshold until the symptom is no longer seen. Sync threshold seems to increment/decrement in multiples of 6 with the default out of the box @50. Infocus says that they cannot advise whether to increase or decrease the sync threshold. How is the enduser to know? Trial & Error?

Anyone notice this. What could be the issue. It appears that we are at the beigining of a blame game comcast>><< infocus. This issue does not occur if the motorola box outputs 480 or when watching dvd.

The issue is driving us nuts. Watching NFL last sunday on CBS/FOX, the projector lost sync atleast 100+ times (each time taking upto 3-5 secs before the image comes back("setting image")).

Would appreciate any input.

I have the same PJ hooked to a HTPC using DVI & OTA and never saw this issue.