Re: Blurry lenses

Same exact thing happens to me. Looks clean then hazes over. Lately I've been leaving the ND filter alone, though it still has some haze, as I actualy think I have the PJ lense mostly clean. My camera lense cleaner and tissues make it worse.

The best thing I used on the PJ lense, and this is a little scary as I don't know the long term effects, was Klasse auto cleaner/polish. I've used it on glass plenty(windsheilds) and it's suposed to be glass safe, and always buffs off realy clean. I'm NOT recomending it though.

At first I thought the lense was, or maybe it is, plastic and I somehow blurred it permanently. Let us know if you find something that works really good. Pure alcohal and some super fine microfiber maybe.

I have the set up you are talking about (4805, 106" Graywolf, ND2 filter) and there seems to be less SDE with the ND2 filter. Japhule and others said this would be the case, though I was skeptical on why it would be so. But they're right.

I don't know if it's psychological, if I'm just getting used to the image, or if it's solely the ND2 filter, but in the two weeks since I got the ND2, I've barely ever noticed SDE. It used to bother me on almost all wide shots.

Oh, and I should mention I have my 4805 ceiling mounted about 42" above my head. If yours is ceiling mounted, you won't be getting the full 1.8 gain of the graywolf, so your brightness may decrease. I posted awhile back and asked what the gain would be in this position and most people estimated 1.1 to 1.3.

Give it a try!

-Bud

Thanks Bud, I may do that. It would be great to be able to try it out before spending the $$ for the screen and the filter though.

If we say it's a 1.2 gain (given that we both use ceiling mounts), using the FtL formula I'm still coming up with 11 FtL after the ND2 filter is applied. That's not too bad. Much better than the 7-8 that I was probably getting with my X1, and close enough to 12 that it's probably as bright or brighter than most theaters (I doubt most of them actually keep their FtL at 12, but who knows). It may be worth it.

Thanks for posting about your experience with the setup!

That's exactly what's happening to my 4805. See my post just a few days ago here

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6963232&&#post6963232

Hope we can get some definitive help on this...

Best,
Samplehead


Crap ! Same here ! Just began ! Not so bad tho.
Left top corner, same \burned out haze\. Very slight yet.
Checked and triple checked lamp assembly - all ok no blobs etc.

As i am in Russia, there is only 1 service and i frankly don't trust it a bit.

If anyone willing to help i am willing to get to root of this problem even if it requires opening pj.

Thanx
Paul

Thanks Bud, I may do that. It would be great to be able to try it out before spending the $$ for the screen and the filter though.

If we say it's a 1.2 gain (given that we both use ceiling mounts), using the FtL formula I'm still coming up with 11 FtL after the ND2 filter is applied. That's not too bad. Much better than the 7-8 that I was probably getting with my X1, and close enough to 12 that it's probably as bright or brighter than most theaters (I doubt most of them actually keep their FtL at 12, but who knows). It may be worth it.

Thanks for posting about your experience with the setup!

I started out with the graywolf and a ceiling mount, but the mount dropped down much closer to where I sit. I needed to raise it because my wife hated how it looked (not a dedicated room). This was about the same time I ordered the ND2 filter.

Anyway, I was worried it would not be bright enough. Raising the mount, you can tell the brightness drops, but it's minor. I wanted it to look like as much like film (at a theater) as possible, not like a giant plasma. When I added the ND2 filter, it looked fantastic. Combining a graywolf and an ND2, don't think of it as making it darker, think of it as making it not so overly bright.

If your decision is more about the graywolf than the filter, check out the graywolf thread in the screen section. I got it more for the price and the contrast than the gain. (Plus, I bought it locally so it was returnable if I didn't like it.) It has its negatives, but I guess most pulldowns do.

-Bud

OK so here are my attempts at taking pictures of the lense... unforutunately as dark as it was and having to hold the camera over my head it made the pictures a bit fuzzy...

You can see how brightly it shows up on the lense...

Re: Blurry lenses

Same exact thing happens to me. Looks clean then hazes over. Lately I've been leaving the ND filter alone, though it still has some haze, as I actualy think I have the PJ lense mostly clean. My camera lense cleaner and tissues make it worse.

The best thing I used on the PJ lense, and this is a little scary as I don't know the long term effects, was Klasse auto cleaner/polish. I've used it on glass plenty(windsheilds) and it's suposed to be glass safe, and always buffs off realy clean. I'm NOT recomending it though.

At first I thought the lense was, or maybe it is, plastic and I somehow blurred it permanently. Let us know if you find something that works really good. Pure alcohal and some super fine microfiber maybe.

Wow... I am not sure I want to do any kind of polish as polish usually involves scraping off the top layer of something... I think I will keep trying "lense safe" methods for now even though so far has gotten me pretty much nowhere.

Thanks for the idea though!

That looks just like my nd filter, can't keep it clean. The klasse is more of a cleaner than a polish, as it contains no abrasives. I still wouldn't use it again. I just got tired of the haze and figured a super small amount should not hurt. It seems like some of the haze is on the inside lens also. Maybe fumes from the bulb cause it. At 50 hours my color wheel was really bad. I used the lens cleaner on it , so it probably has the haze also. Still looks way better than it did. I wonder if it hurts performance any?

Another variant....
Upon my recommendation, a friend purchased 4805 and hooked up to the comcast 6200 hd box (set to 1080i) using component. Anytime, there is a bright scene or screen flashes (UFO scenes, swords flashing etc), the projector looses sync. This happens with all HD channels. Changing the box output to 720 the issue remains.

Called comcast and the tech mentioned that they bumped the signal strength. Same behavior. Called infocus, they asked to adjust the sync threshold until the symptom is no longer seen. Sync threshold seems to increment/decrement in multiples of 6 with the default out of the box @50. Infocus says that they cannot advise whether to increase or decrease the sync threshold. How is the enduser to know? Trial & Error?

Anyone notice this. What could be the issue. It appears that we are at the beigining of a blame game comcast>><< infocus. This issue does not occur if the motorola box outputs 480 or when watching dvd.

The issue is driving us nuts. Watching NFL last sunday on CBS/FOX, the projector lost sync atleast 100+ times (each time taking upto 3-5 secs before the image comes back("setting image")).

Would appreciate any input.

I have the same PJ hooked to a HTPC using DVI & OTA and never saw this issue.

Is he switching at all with his setup, or is the cable box going straight to the pj. Many users have had that sync problem when going through some receivers, or some switch boxes, even recently on this thread. Give us a little more information, so we can eliminate some known causes of the problem.

Thanks,

Wes

Is he switching at all with his setup, or is the cable box going straight to the pj. Many users have had that sync problem when going through some receivers, or some switch boxes, even recently on this thread. Give us a little more information, so we can eliminate some known causes of the problem.

Thanks,

Wes
Appreciate your help. yes, the receiver (onkyo) is switching between comcast and dvd (2in-1out to pj). Is there a known issue? Haven't tried the straight hookup to the PJ from cable box. Will try and report back.

Thanks again

Can somebody help me find an adaptor or splitter and explain to me how to connect two DVD players, one with DVI and one with HDMI output to Infocus 4805 using preferably the DVI input only on the PJ?

OK so here are my attempts at taking pictures of the lense... unforutunately as dark as it was and having to hold the camera over my head it made the pictures a bit fuzzy...

You can see how brightly it shows up on the lense...


I'd had the same problem, lens paper and lens cleaner still left a a hazy (oil) residue, my microfiber cloth left the residue as well. No matter what I did the residue would not pick up until I purchased a new Optex microfiber cloth and with a puff of "breath" pulled it up quickly without a cleaning solution leaving a crystal clear lens.

Lens paper doesn't appear to be the best for picking up residue and I would surmize microfiber cloths easily become contaminated with oil from lenses and hands which renders them useless far sooner than you'd expect which makes sense. We are very carefull not to touch the lens with a finger and leave an oily print but don't think twice about man handling the cloth with bare hands before using it on the lens. Perhaps latex gloves should be used when handling the cloth.

I'd had the same problem, lens paper and lens cleaner still left a a hazy (oil) residue, my microfiber cloth left the residue as well. No matter what I did the residue would not pick up until I purchased a new Optex microfiber cloth and with a puff of "breath" pulled it up quickly without a cleaning solution leaving a crystal clear lens.

Lens paper doesn't appear to be the best for picking up residue and I would surmize microfiber cloths easily become contaminated with oil from lenses and hands which renders them useless far sooner than you'd expect which makes sense. We are very carefull not to touch the lens with a finger and leave an oily print but don't think twice about man handling the cloth with bare hands before using it on the lens. Perhaps latex gloves should be used when handling the cloth.

Also, I would encourage everybody to take a look in their lense with the pj running before they decide to clean the lense, just so they know what it looks like. I could see many people panicking after reading these posts after cleaning their lense, when a regular lense shows the rectangular "hazy" print of the image going through the center of the lense.

Wes

That looks just like my nd filter, can't keep it clean. The klasse is more of a cleaner than a polish, as it contains no abrasives. I still wouldn't use it again. I just got tired of the haze and figured a super small amount should not hurt. It seems like some of the haze is on the inside lens also. Maybe fumes from the bulb cause it. At 50 hours my color wheel was really bad. I used the lens cleaner on it , so it probably has the haze also. Still looks way better than it did. I wonder if it hurts performance any?

Yes my ND filter looks the same as my lense...

I cleaned the filter with the same stuff I cleaned the lense with...

I realize the whole microfiber cloth getting oily as well and had though of that as it seems the first time I used it, it did do some good in cleaning the haze a little, but seemed to do very little on consecutive cleanings.

I am pretty sure this haze is beyond the normal effect of the lense having light pass through it and it's getting rediculous trying to clean it off :mad:

If anybody is looking for a good movie to see if you can detect the rainbow effect (RBE) on the 4805 I recommend Sin City. It's more like Rainbow City when I watch it. :) I don't really find that I can see the RBE much at all watching other movies as well as HD/SD TV. I can't say I've never seen it, but it's not common. But I was constantly seeing it while watching that movie. I don't know if it's just the fact that it's mostly B&W (I haven't watched any other B&W movies yet on my 4805) or because of the high contrast levels in this movie or some other quality of the movie that enhances the RBE. I assume being B&W has a lot to do with it since you are seeing the colors of the RBE over top of a B&W image which would tend to make them stand out more.

Another variant....
Upon my recommendation, a friend purchased 4805 and hooked up to the comcast 6200 hd box (set to 1080i) using component. Anytime, there is a bright scene or screen flashes (UFO scenes, swords flashing etc), the projector looses sync. This happens with all HD channels. Changing the box output to 720 the issue remains.

Called comcast and the tech mentioned that they bumped the signal strength. Same behavior. Called infocus, they asked to adjust the sync threshold until the symptom is no longer seen. Sync threshold seems to increment/decrement in multiples of 6 with the default out of the box @50. Infocus says that they cannot advise whether to increase or decrease the sync threshold. How is the enduser to know? Trial & Error?

Anyone notice this. What could be the issue. It appears that we are at the beigining of a blame game comcast>><< infocus. This issue does not occur if the motorola box outputs 480 or when watching dvd.

The issue is driving us nuts. Watching NFL last sunday on CBS/FOX, the projector lost sync atleast 100+ times (each time taking upto 3-5 secs before the image comes back("setting image")).

Would appreciate any input.

I have the same PJ hooked to a HTPC using DVI & OTA and never saw this issue.


I was having the same problem with my PJ, yet it seemed that it only happened when I was viewing HDTV through my OTA box. I didn't have the issues with the cable box or DVD player. I initially thought it was the signal dropping out, but decided to adjust the synch threshold anyway. I cranked up to like 92 and have had no problems ever since.

Give that a try and let us know if it works.

I have a Dish HD DVR with an HDMI out and the 4805 with the M1 input. I am currently using component cables and am wondering if the improvement I'd get from the HDMI to M1 input is worth the expense.

I need about a 23 ft cable and monoprice.com is out of stock on the HDMI to M1 cable and some other vendors seem to either not carry that combination or have a big price jump from 15 to 25ft. I coul go with an HDMI cable with and HDMI to M1 connector. However my DISH DVR came with an 8ft HDMI male to DVI-D female cable. So I think of using that cable with a 15ft DVI-D Male to M1 male cable. Any problems with converting from HDMI to DVI-D to M1?

Also when I eventually get my upconverting DVD player will I be better off using the M1 connection with the DVR and component with the DVD or vice versa.

Can somebody help me find an adaptor or splitter and explain to me how to connect two DVD players, one with DVI and one with HDMI output to Infocus 4805 using preferably the DVI input only on the PJ?

Bump!

Can somebody help me find an adaptor or splitter and explain to me how to connect two DVD players, one with DVI and one with HDMI output to Infocus 4805 using preferably the DVI input only on the PJ?

First, input on PJ is M1, not DVI.
Second, Why do you want to connect 2 DVD players? You can only watch 1 at a time. I'm not bashing you, it just seems like a lot of hassle for no apparent reason.
I don't think you'll find a "Y" adapter with M1 -> DVI/HDMI, but you could find a "Y" adapter for one of them, maybe even a M1-> DVI/DVI, then get the appropriate adapter (in this case HDMI->DVI), but that's a lot of connections, and I'd say your chances of problems are...high.
OR, you could get DVI switcher, then a DVI-> M1 cable (to PJ) and a DVI-> hdmi adapter. An expensive option, and, like above, too many connections.

Why not hook one up via component? Still excellent PQ, and if you have other component connections, you can get an inexpensive passive component switcher (like the Pelican from WallyWorld).

TC

Bump!

It would have to be pretty specialty... probably easier to convert both DVD players to the same output (ie make them both DVI or both HDMI with an adapter) then run that through a switch box and out to the M1 on the PJ...

Alex,
This was making the rounds a few months ago.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=569022

First, input on PJ is M1, not DVI.
Second, Why do you want to connect 2 DVD players? You can only watch 1 at a time. I'm not bashing you, it just seems like a lot of hassle for no apparent reason.
I don't think you'll find a "Y" adapter with M1 -> DVI/HDMI, but you could find a "Y" adapter for one of them, maybe even a M1-> DVI/DVI, then get the appropriate adapter (in this case HDMI->DVI), but that's a lot of connections, and I'd say your chances of problems are...high.
OR, you could get DVI switcher, then a DVI-> M1 cable (to PJ) and a DVI-> hdmi adapter. An expensive option, and, like above, too many connections.

Why not hook one up via component? Still excellent PQ, and if you have other component connections, you can get an inexpensive passive component switcher (like the Pelican from WallyWorld).

TC

I am currently using the infocus MI to DVI cable to my Oppo and a 35ft Blue Jeans component cable from my comcast box to PJ. As you may know HD-DVD will be available in March & I am thinking of getting the Toshiba HD-DVD player and wanted to know how I can connect both DVD Players to the PJ so I don't have to switch cables when I want to watch either standard DVD or HD-DVD. Besides, the Oppo is only good through DVI and most likely have to use HDMI for HD-DVD

It would have to be pretty specialty... probably easier to convert both DVD players to the same output (ie make them both DVI or both HDMI with an adapter) then run that through a switch box and out to the M1 on the PJ...

I will look into that.

Alex,
This was making the rounds a few months ago.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=569022

Thanks Ja Phule. I am checking this thread next.

Very helpful link. Thanks again.

I am currently using the infocus MI to DVI cable to my Oppo and a 35ft Blue Jeans component cable from my comcast box to PJ. As you may know HD-DVD will be available in March & I am thinking of getting the Toshiba HD-DVD player and wanted to know how I can connect both DVD Players to the PJ so I don't have to switch cables when I want to watch either standard DVD or HD-DVD. Besides, the Oppo is only good through DVI and most likely have to use HDMI for HD-DVD

Any particular reason you are jumping on the HD DVD player so soon?

The selection of HD DVDs is bound to be small and expensive, the player is going to be first gen and you will be showing it on a pj with a native resolution of standard DVDs....

Any particular reason you are jumping on the HD DVD player so soon?

The selection of HD DVDs is bound to be small and expensive, the player is going to be first gen and you will be showing it on a pj with a native resolution of standard DVDs....

I completely forgot about the resolution of the PJ. Point well taken. Thanks.

Don't give up so fast Alex. HD-DVD will be stellar compared to any other source you could put on 4805. Everyone who sees HD on my 4805 vastly prefers the increased color saturation and contrast. This has been said many times here, its not about the resolution. I hardly watch DVDs anymore because HD-DVR is so much better (over component no less).

I don't think $500 is out of line for the first players out considering a really good DVD player that costs $350 now won't hold a candle to HD DVD of any quality. If you've got the cash, why not be the first on your block...probabably better than buying a new Std DVD player and wishing you'd waited and got HD.

Yes technology will be changing, probably will be several years before HDMI settles down...so ...why not? Yes they'll be in target it 2010 for $50 but I could be dead then:)


Me? I am waiting on 1080P projector at $3000

I was thinking of getting an HD-DVD player or Blu-Ray for the 4805. Nothing wrong with that. HD looks better than DVD on the 4805 and HD-DVD/Blu-Ray will even look better.

One note of caution on HD DVD and 4805. I asked Bob Williams about HDCP compatibility in another thread on the new IF units. There have been some issues with early implementations of HDCP (which is why I can't use DVI cable to my 8300). The new IF line has a new chip that has certifications for HDMI/HDCP.

From what I read, if your display can't handshake with HDCP HDMI on the player, you're locked down to 480P even over component, period. I would hope the player Mfgs have it figured out by go live...but not worth it if it doesn't work.

So, might be better to let the initial reviews come in and find reviewers who have them working on 4805. IMHO.

dmcdayton, I haven't given up at all. I am not just as hyped as I was before. Not only becuase of the resolution but I just saw a list of the HD_DVD titles and I am in no rush to watch/own any of the tiltes not to mention the HDCP issue you just mentioned. I will wait and see...

I am told:

Get 10% off any purchase at the infocus store using coupon code THANKS at checkout. Offer expires 6/30/06

Unclear as to if you can combine this with rebate/free screen/etc.

FYI

I am told:

Get 10% off any purchase at the infocus store using coupon code THANKS at checkout. Offer expires 6/30/06

Unclear as to if you can combine this with rebate/free screen/etc.

FYI
Have you guys checked out the new Infocus website?

"Anytime, there is a bright scene or screen flashes (UFO scenes, swords flashing etc), the projector looses sync....Called comcast and the tech mentioned that they bumped the signal strength."

Interesting...I had briefly tried out the Pelican System Selector 2.0 and the same kinds of scenes had the same effect on my 4805 and I had no idea why. When I used the Freeze function to freeze a random dvd scene, then took the Selector out of the path and plugged the dvd player directly into the 4805 and un-froze the image, it was immediately obvious that the Selector drastically upped the contrast level of the image, which I guess is what was causing the sync issue.

If Comcast upped the signal strength, try putting a splitter (NOT the amplified kind) between the cable box and the projector; this will cut the signal strength and possibly correct the problem. Crap, now that I think of it, maybe it would have solved my problems with the Pelican as well (I already returned it) -- it might just have been over-amplifying the signals it was fed, causing the extreme contrast, ghosting, and sync glitches.

Ok so I think maybe I am getting somewhere with this milky fog on my lense...

I checked around and everyone says Pancro Lense cleaner (the expensive one I got) is the best so I decided to give it another chance...

This time I took a q tip, wrapped a lense paper around it so as not to get any finger oil involved and sprayed a liberal amount of pancro on it (liberal being about 1 drop). Went at the lense until the pancro evaporated, switched to a new paper and went over the lense some more.

Oddly each time I take some of the film away but some is still left, each time I have to power off the pj before more cleaning which I don't want to do too much so it will be a while before i can get the 2-3 more cleanings I am hoping it will take to clean the haze all off. Already a marked improvement on the lense itself.

The ND2 filter however is another story all together... I can't seem to remove the haze very well from it no matter what :(

For those with problems cleaning filters and lenses you can try these products from this place where a lot of us have bought their ND2 filters from :

http://www.2filter.com/prices/products/formulamc.html

How many people here are using a HTPC and purchased an Upcoverting DVD player like OPPO or Bravo? I considered purchasing one but I wondered what would be the point if I can get the same results from my HTPC. What are the basic components needed in a HTPC to receive the same PQ?

No reason to use both.
I have the Bravo D1.
Cost me $70 including a new DVD loader to swap in it. Fixed all problems.

I have no need for an HTPC since all my HD comes in via Cable.
$70 to 1:1 pixel map sure beats $400 or so for small form factor HTPC that I would have to build (and I have built MANY pcs from scratch).
Just not worth it when I get same thing from a $70 unit.

How many people here are using a HTPC and purchased an Upcoverting DVD player like OPPO or Bravo? I considered purchasing one but I wondered what would be the point if I can get the same results from my HTPC. What are the basic components needed in a HTPC to receive the same PQ?

I was using a HTPC with my rear projection HDTV before I got the 4805 and since it can do the 1:1 over DVI and DVDs look great I don't see the need to get a separate 1:1 or up converting DVD player. Of course I don't just use the HTPC for DVDs, so if you don't need/want the other features that come with a HTPC the standalone DVD player is the way to go. Plus with a DVD player it's a plug and watch proposition (much easier then the HTPC can be at times).

50 ft. component too long?

Hi there - I've read the entire 4805 Mark II thread, and haven't seen my question answered yet, so, here it goes:

We've got a Black Friday 4805 and until now have been using my girlfriend's Powerbook via VGA to provide the signal. It's worked fantastically - in fact we just had a great Wrath of Khan viewing/drinking party. (Kirks vs. Khans, Kirks had to drink approx. twice as much as the Khans - fyi.)

In thinking of a more semi-permanent setup, we are going to use our plays-everything Philips DVD player instead of the Powerbook. Before I buy the 50 foot component cables from monoprice, I'm wondering:

Is 50 ft. too long? Will the signal degrade?

Thanks in advance!

- Keith in NYC, Go Steelers!

Is 50 ft. too long? Will the signal degrade?

Thanks in advance!

- Keith in NYC, Go Steelers![/QUOTE]

Good Quality cables such as the ones from Monoprice should work fine . I have a 25ft cable from them and it looks just as good as the 6' Monster cable that I paid more for than the 25' cable. I can't say for 100% sure but with my experience so far go for the 50' cable and enjoy.

Just not worth it when I get same thing from a $70 unit.

I would argue that you are NOT getting the same thing. A fine-tuned HTPC, IMHO, would be a step above a pixel-mapped DVD player mainly for its post-processing abilities.

But I don't want to start a war over this. ;)

50 ft. component too long?

It's worked fantastically - in fact we just had a great Wrath of Khan viewing/drinking party. (Kirks vs. Khans, Kirks had to drink approx. twice as much as the Khans - fyi.)

In thinking of a more semi-permanent setup, we are going to use our plays-everything Philips DVD player instead of the Powerbook.
Is 50 ft. too long? Will the signal degrade?

Thanks in advance!

- Keith in NYC, Go Steelers!

Welcome to the Forum!

Wrath of Khan looked surprisingly good on the 4805 for being an older DVD - nothing better than Khan vs Kirk on 92".

You wouldn't happen to be using a Philips DVP-642? I use that player when not using the HTPC and it's great.

More importantly, I use 50' component cables for the Philips, Xbox, and HD STB - works perfectly fine so you're good to go! ;)

But I don't want to start a war over this.Yeah. Right.

i was testing some new DVD+R DL (Memorex--purple media--Nero7) discs i burned last night...
Two for the Money has some nice close-up shots of McConaughey playing Football...especially in the huddle
I put it in my 2 new players Oppo/Momitsu (played OK) and fired up the old HTPC and tried it too (played also)
But to my surprise the Momitsu 880DX w/NEW LiteON loader is just 3D like in PQ....
Neither the Oppo or HTPC comes CLOSE with 854x480@47.95hz 1:1 pixel matching abilities of SIGMA8500 chip in Bravo/Momitsu players
Granted my HTPC is not as exotic as theRealGeno's rig

i also don't want to start a WAR
but we all know what Bob Williams (engineer Infocus) uses in his LAB

Hey Guys -

Thanks for the advice - I'm going to place my 50-ft. cable order tonight!

The DVD player is a Phillips DVP642.

"Wrath of Khan" looked great on the 4805 - we espeically appreciated the pre-cgi special effects as well as the proto-cgi effects. Going into the movie, I was thinking that this movie hasn't aged well, but it actually holds up very nicely.

With the drinking game, I made everyone, Kirks and Khans, drink for every Star Trek cliche violation: When Bones says "Dammit, Jim," when Spock mentions logic, when Scotty complains about getting things done on time, and when anyone mentions that they're "getting too old for this." Needless to say, after this movie everyone was either sufficiently schcnockered, sufficiently caffinated, or sufficiently hydrated, depending on their drink.

After the cable purchase, it's time to paint the wall...

Thanks again,

- Keith

Whatever "slight" benefit the HTPC would give me (which would not be super noticeable a 480P Pj anyway, is certainly no where being worth 6-7xs the price I paid for the D1.

If you want to taLK ABOUT a 720,1080p PJ, then that would be worth it to me.

I was thinking that this movie hasn't aged well, but it actually holds up very nicely.

I think you may have had a few too many and your judgement was impaired :p

Whatever "slight" benefit the HTPC would give me (which would not be super noticeable a 480P Pj anyway, is certainly no where being worth 6-7xs the price I paid for the D1.


I feel the need to argue that but I'm to tired to really get into details so....lets just go with...."oh yea...well, yea well...oh yea right yea...well...you...oh yea..well...duh...oh you did'nt...no you did not...yea oh well yea right buddy sure yea oh right yea...no way...yea welll...oh no way...oh...man just forget it oh...yea right."

There, hope that clears that up and ends the HTPC vs DVI out player discussion. Please get us back on track with the lens cleansing debate.

Carry on. ;)

Thanks for all the response on the HTPC vs. DVD player. I was not trying to start a war. I have a HTPC and use it for multiple things other than watching movies. I was just trying to understand why people on this forum would buy an upconverting DVD player if they have an HTPC. But I know how we can get caught up on upgrading and always searching for the best PQ.

Whatever "slight" benefit the HTPC would give me (which would not be super noticeable a 480P Pj anyway, is certainly no where being worth 6-7xs the price I paid for the D1.

If you want to taLK ABOUT a 720,1080p PJ, then that would be worth it to me.


But with an HTPC you can use it like a great rental system too. Rent them all on "99 cent cheap night", rip 'em to the drive, and then watch them all the next week, ditto some of the bonus crap. Of course you have to delete them to make room for the next weeks crop, but you aren't trying to pirate them, just watch them when best able. Your average older PC can be cheaply dedicated for HTPC use. I've found anything faster than a PII-400 will do it without hiccups.

-W (king of the el-cheapo HTPC's)

Welcome to the Forum!

Wrath of Khan looked surprisingly good on the 4805 for being an older DVD


Was it anamorphic? My (older) copy of Generations was not, I was bummed.

-W

But with an HTPC you can use it like a great rental system too. Rent them all on "99 cent cheap night", rip 'em to the drive, and then watch them all the next week, ditto some of the bonus crap. Of course you have to delete them to make room for the next weeks crop, but you aren't trying to pirate them, just watch them when best able. Your average older PC can be cheaply dedicated for HTPC use. I've found anything faster than a PII-400 will do it without hiccups.

-W (king of the el-cheapo HTPC's)

What is this 99 cent night you are talking about?

Thx

I'm new to displaying video on a projector and setting up a home theater. For my home system I'm comparing a Dell 2300 from work with an Infocus 4805. The image quality (to my untrained eye) seems very similar between these two systems. However, I'm unhappy because both show the exact same image artifacts. I occasionally see horiziontal bands of different intensity, especially on backgrounds of fairly uniform color. I see this both with DVD and tv projection. I don't see it on the setup screens when I'm not displaying an external video signal.

Is there something wrong with my setup, or is this a common problem with low-end video projectors? I'm using a 15' long s-video connection to both displays.

Thanks for any help and advice you can offer.

Dave

Is there something wrong with my setup, or is this a common problem with low-end video projectors? I'm using a 15' long s-video connection to both displays.

Thanks for any help and advice you can offer.

Dave

If these bands are moving up or down the screen it sounds as though you may have a ground loop problem. Use the thread search function with ground loop as the search phrase. You can also read back about 5 pages or so and you will see some advice on how to get rid of them.

You should not see any banding in your image. Stay away from using the s-video and composite connections as they are not that great. Use component cables to make the connection from your dvd player to the 4805. You should then see a marked improvement in the quality of your image.

However, I'm unhappy because both show the exact same image artifacts. I occasionally see horiziontal bands of different intensity, especially on backgrounds of fairly uniform color. I see this both with DVD and tv projection. I don't see it on the setup screens when I'm not displaying an external video signal.

Is there something wrong with my setup, or is this a common problem with low-end video projectors? I'm using a 15' long s-video connection to both displays. S-video isn't going to give you a very good image in the first place and you may have video card/low color resolution problems on the computer.

A dvd player may be better then a htpc if you have crap hardware and decoders on your htpc.

A 6600gt with dvi out running theatertek or ZP and purevideo drivers will blast that dvd player you're talking about.

You can tweak a htpc 5000 ways from sunday; dvd players cannot be tweaked in such a manner.

A dvd player may be better then a htpc if you have crap hardware and decoders on your htpc.

A 6600gt with dvi out running theatertek or ZP and purevideo drivers will blast that dvd player you're talking about.

You can tweak a htpc 5000 ways from sunday; dvd players cannot be tweaked in such a manner.

Yeah and as I said, 10xs the cost.

6600gt cost me more then the DVD player.

Of course the HTPC is better, more configurable.
Is it worth 10xs the cost (including software) etc over a 1:1 pixel map DVD player for a 480p projector?
No way in my book.

What is this 99 cent night you are talking about?

Thx

My local video store has all rentals for 99 cents on Monday nights, even the new stuff. So I load up my hard drive for the weeks worth on Monday.

-W

Yeah and as I said, 10xs the cost.

Only if you need brand new gold plated hardware. :D

The older Nvidia cards that are under $50 new on Ebay work just fine, I use a 5700. And there's plenty of 5.1 sound cards out there cheap too. Theater-Tek isn't cheap, but if you get a Sony burner for $99 at best buy it comes with a free Nero suite that includes a 1/2 decent player to get one started (not to mention the burning potential).

If you have an old PC laying around with a 40g drive and 512 memory, you can get out of it for under $200 to start (that's 2X) - and still be better off than with a stand-alone player.

-W

You aren't doing a HTPC with DVI for $200, so you will be @ least 4xs the cost of my $70 player and as I said, it is not worth 4xs the price with a 480p player.
That is the bottom line.
As I said, of course an HTPC will be better, but not worth 4xs the price of a $70 used player.

It is not 4xs better and not even 2xs better.

Was it anamorphic? My (older) copy of Generations was not, I was bummed.

-W

Yes, I bummed it for a couple hours from my brother-in-law and burned it to the hard drive - looked so good I burned it to a DVD (fit on one).

It is not 4xs better and not even 2xs better.

Is too.

You aren't doing a HTPC with DVI for $200,

You're right, at my original min config. I was at $140.00 into my old PC. :p

Before I added a burner, I was into about $70 for a new 5700 with DVI out, $75 for a sound blaster Audigy (overkill). Ebay rocks!!

When I added a burner, I was at $239 and it came with free Nero suite. Anyone with a burner can tell you it pays for itself and then some.

-W (PS: CC on ST Geno - thanks)

Theaterek and fdshow are free right?

I am sure your old pc fits nicely in your HT equiipment rack.

BTW, you can do a lot better then $99 on a DVD dual layer/dual format drive and and OEM copy of Nero.

I don't think you can say something has to give twice as good performance to be worth twice as much money. There is a rule about diminishing returns and just a little better performance can cost significantly more. In some areas it's worth it to some people. Like me.

Ask people who buy very expensive cables if their sound is 4x as good. Their cables can easily cost 50x what ours did, just to squeeze out a little better performance (maybe).

Theaterek and fdshow are free right?

I am sure your old pc fits nicely in your HT equiipment rack.

BTW, you can do a lot better then $99 on a DVD dual layer/dual format drive and and OEM copy of Nero.

Dude, what the hell is your deal with HTPCs? Did you build one and spend $$$ and not get it to work or something?

Yes, ffdshow is freeware.

How about this: I wanted to have the absolute best PQ humanly possible with my 4805. I think that with a pixel-mapped 3.0 P4, 3D vmr9 renderer, video dvi, TheaterTek with the latest Nvidia decoders, a 6600 GT, and fine-tuned ffdshow running simple denoise3d, Bicubic resize, and the ability to limitedsharpen any movie, and to adjust the refresh rate to either 48 or 72 Hz, thus avoiding 3:2 pulldown, that I have achieved my goal. I think it was worth the $$$ :eek: .

If you think you have achieved that same thing with your setup for way less $$$, then you are way smarter than any of us here. More power to ya.

Theaterek and fdshow are free right?

I am sure your old pc fits nicely in your HT equiipment rack.

BTW, you can do a lot better then $99 on a DVD dual layer/dual format drive and and OEM copy of Nero.

The old PC and sound amp are set up in the closet of the theater room, we call it "the projection booth". Last time I owned a 19" rack full of equipment was when I built a short-wave pirate radio transmitter in the 80's that weighed about 600 pounds, but could pull 4kv at 1 amp. I just don't miss rack mounted stuff.

ffdshow is free, and I have yet to buy Theatertek because I think it's pricy. But any decent overlay player will still calibrate and perform as good as a DVD player.
And I'm aware I could do better than $99, I scarfed mine up the week between Christmas and New Years last year, because I had a gift certificate and "wanted it now". This year I got the same exact package for one of the kids for Christmas (at Best Buy :p ) and it was $39 after the rebates, so my average is now $69, at least that's a more palatible number.

To me the HTPC is as much about being able to store and manipulate movies easier, as it is about PQ.

-W

Dude, what the hell is your deal with HTPCs? Did you build one and spend $$$ and not get it to work or something?

No, he really (way deep down) wants to build an HTPC, and he's desperately trying to talk *himself* out of it. Don't take it personally Geno, as he could argue his point with a cabbage as easily as any of us, and still get the job done. For this purpose a cabbage would be way smarter than us too, it won't argue. :D

-W

Yup, you figured me out!

Some of us use our htpc's as gaming rigs as well as for watching movies with. Since I already had a pretty good computer I only needed to get some dvd playback software (theatertek) to make my gaming rig/internet surfer into a "htpc". And of course having 750gb's of drives networked is a nice addition as I can watch movies in any room of the house that has a tv and a pc or a modded xbox.

For each thier own; personally I chose to put the money that I would have spent on a decent stand alone dvd player back into my computer.

BTW its not 4x better, its more like 10x better. ;)

Dang...I was just SURE my original post would settle the HTPC vs DVD player debate but apparently it did not help one bit. Let me try one last time...here goes...


My set up is 10.5 times more expensive than yours and it looks 12.4 better than yours.

No it does not.

Yes it does.

Is your room as dark as mine?

No.

Then this entire argument is pointless.

It is?

Yes.

Oh. Sorry. But I must be right because I say I am right...right?

What if I spend 5.6 times less than you but then get my room 2x darker than yours then I will win right?

Maybe.

What is your screen gain and seating distance and viewing angle?

Whats that?

Never mind.



I hope that ends this debate for awhile...if not....unless you have SEEN every possible combination of player/screen/set up/calibration/enviroment you really should stop acting like you have.

over and out

A dvd player may be better then a htpc if you have crap hardware and decoders on your htpc.

A 6600gt with dvi out running theatertek or ZP and purevideo drivers will blast that dvd player you're talking about.

You can tweak a htpc 5000 ways from sunday; dvd players cannot be tweaked in such a manner.


I am looking at getting one of the new 6150 motherboards. I was told that any of the nVidea 6000 series would do a good job of home theater. Now for gaming I could see that the 6600GT would be much better but for DVD playback?

Has anyone tested various 6000 series cards to see if it really does make a difference?

I'm new to displaying video on a projector and setting up a home theater. For my home system I'm comparing a Dell 2300 from work with an Infocus 4805. The image quality (to my untrained eye) seems very similar between these two systems. However, I'm unhappy because both show the exact same image artifacts. I occasionally see horiziontal bands of different intensity, especially on backgrounds of fairly uniform color. I see this both with DVD and tv projection. I don't see it on the setup screens when I'm not displaying an external video signal.

Is there something wrong with my setup, or is this a common problem with low-end video projectors? I'm using a 15' long s-video connection to both displays.

Thanks for any help and advice you can offer.

Dave


Sounds like a ground issue to me as well. My setup for the past 2 years has used 50 ft of s-video cable going from my audio receiver to the 4805. My Directv box and DVD player connect to the receiver.

This is my second projector with the X1 being my first. I am happy with the picture quality and have had a lot of compliments on my system. Yes S-video is kind of on the bottom of prefered video standards today but it does work without the problems you are talking about.

My local video store has all rentals for 99 cents on Monday nights, even the new stuff. So I load up my hard drive for the weeks worth on Monday.

-W

Thx, I don't think we have any local video stores left in my area. I miss the competition from these. Everything here seems to be $4 or more :(

I am looking at getting one of the new 6150 motherboards. I was told that any of the nVidea 6000 series would do a good job of home theater. Now for gaming I could see that the 6600GT would be much better but for DVD playback?

Has anyone tested various 6000 series cards to see if it really does make a difference?

Funny you should ask this. I am looking at the same situation. All research so far has lead me to belive that for video playback they are the same.

I think I will be looking at getting the 6600 (NON GT).

Whatever "slight" benefit the HTPC would give me (which would not be super noticeable a 480P Pj anyway, is certainly no where being worth 6-7xs the price I paid for the D1.

If you want to taLK ABOUT a 720,1080p PJ, then that would be worth it to me.


Wrong.

Funny you should ask this. I am looking at the same situation. All research so far has lead me to belive that for video playback they are the same.

I think I will be looking at getting the 6600 (NON GT).


I'm of the sworn opinion that any of the Nvidia 5000 or 6000 series cards, with on-board MPEG decoding and DVI out, will perform about the same in an HTPC only application. I mean, particularly with the 4805, you're not asking it to push too many pixels around at all. I tried my 5700 first at 1024x768 and figured that if it could handle playback to that monitor (and it did) then the 4805 would not stress it out at all.

-W

I'm of the sworn opinion that any of the Nvidia 5000 or 6000 series cards, with on-board MPEG decoding and DVI out, will perform about the same in an HTPC only application. I mean, particularly with the 4805, you're not asking it to push too many pixels around at all. I tried my 5700 first at 1024x768 and figured that if it could handle playback to that monitor (and it did) then the 4805 would not stress it out at all.

-W

Clams and other HTPC Gurus,

If one decides to go by HTPC route,

is it must that you first use DVD Shrink to rip the DVD on disk, then use some software (ffdshow?) to massage it and then play it from the disk using a player like power dvd?
or
can you just play the DVD from your PC (as you normally do from a DVD player), and set the configuration on powerdvd to 854x480 to enable 1;1 pixel map?

I am little confused here by the role played by the DVD Shrink/ffdshow and like.

I am planning to revive my old PC lying around and hence wanted to get an idea...

Thanks,

I'm of the sworn opinion that any of the Nvidia 5000 or 6000 series cards, with on-board MPEG decoding and DVI out, will perform about the same in an HTPC only application. I mean, particularly with the 4805, you're not asking it to push too many pixels around at all. I tried my 5700 first at 1024x768 and figured that if it could handle playback to that monitor (and it did) then the 4805 would not stress it out at all.

-W


I have read however the GeForce 6x00 series cards have a new video processing engine. Which allows for multi-format decoding and is optimized for VMR9. In other words all GF 6 cards have "PureVideo" engine.

Good write up here... NVIDIA Enables PureVideo on GeForce 6 GPUs (http://www.anandtech.com/video/showdoc.aspx?i=2305)

Scottwood,

Currently the 6600gt is going to give you the best bang for the buck. It kind of reminds me of the old ti4200; nothing could beat it in that price range.

The 6800gt has some issue with it not being able to do hardware rendering with the pure video decoders thus taxing the cpu more intensively then the 6600gt. I'm sure there are a lot of pissed off 6800 owners when this came to light.

For the 4805 i'm sure that any of the 6xxx series cards would do fine since 1:1 pixel mapping is ONLY 848x480 (854 if you can get powerstrip to work correctly with it) That being said I would still spend the extra 30 bucks and get the 6600gt because nothing in its price range can even touch it.

You can find these cards EASILY for well under $150.

Clams and other HTPC Gurus,

If one decides to go by HTPC route,

is it must that you first use DVD Shrink to rip the DVD on disk, then use some software (ffdshow?) to massage it and then play it from the disk using a player like power dvd?
or
can you just play the DVD from your PC (as you normally do from a DVD player), and set the configuration on powerdvd to 854x480 to enable 1;1 pixel map?

I am little confused here by the role played by the DVD Shrink/ffdshow and like.
I am planning to revive my old PC lying around and hence wanted to get an idea...
Thanks,

I am far from an expert but with the help from others here I have my HTPC up and running and love it. Note however, that I am running a 1.8 GHz and ffdshow pushes my CPU to 100%!! All indications lead me to believe if you do not have at least 3ghz CPU forget ffsshow.

The short answer all you need in software is a DVD players and PowerStrip.

DVD Player: Obvious to play DVDs. (I took the plunge and bought TeatreTek. It is quite easy to configure and use.)

PowerStrip: Is what will allow you change the resolution of your video out. Others are now using nVidia's software to change the resolution.

ffdshow: is a codec (plugin if you will) that you can install to even make the image look better. As stated above I found it to be very CPU demanding so I have stopped using it until I can get a better MB & CPU.

Sound Card: If you want to output the sound to your receiver make sure your sound card can pass digital. I use a cheap Sound Blaster 5.1 and it works great.



If you have the parts lying around its cheap. I have since started to look at local news groups and EBay and have found I will be able to pick up a good MB/CPU for cheap. At which time I will venture back into using ffdshow.

I have a pretty good Sony DVD player and never complained about the picture quality. Now that I have seen pix mapping I will never go back to a stand alone DVD player.

My 2¢...

Clams and other HTPC Gurus,

If one decides to go by HTPC route,

is it must that you first use DVD Shrink to rip the DVD on disk, then use some software (ffdshow?) to massage it and then play it from the disk using a player like power dvd?
or
can you just play the DVD from your PC (as you normally do from a DVD player), and set the configuration on powerdvd to 854x480 to enable 1;1 pixel map?

I am little confused here by the role played by the DVD Shrink/ffdshow and like.

I am planning to revive my old PC lying around and hence wanted to get an idea...

Thanks,

TheSensFan pretty much answered this but I would like to add a few things:

DVD Shrink is a program one uses to burn a DVD onto a single disk. Most DVDs are too large for a normal DVD-R or DVD+R. So Shrink will compress it in order to fit on a single disc. I also have DVD Decrytper for some newer DVDs. DVD Shrink will also let you burn certain scenes for different DVDs if you want a demo disc to show your setup and 4805. Don't think a D1 can do that. ;)

For 1:1 pixel-mapping, you have two options. Powerstrip or Nvidia drivers. I did not like the Nvidia drivers - they are funky. Powerstrip is easy, especially when you just have to plug in DaGamePimp's numbers. Also, Powerstrip is very easy for refresh rate changing (48 or 72) to avoid 3:2 pulldown for stutter free playback.

For DVD viewing, it is just like a normal DVD player. Pop it in and TT launches automatically. Of course, it needs to be configured for 3D vmr9, and any post-processors like ffdshow, Dscaler sharpness filters, or Nvidia PureVideo (which the 6xxx series already have). And you also have the option for renderless vmr9 in TT in which the 3D machine of the card essentially takes over, and TT has built-in scaling algorithms for top-notch DVD playback. Here is a sample screenshot. In the upper left-hand corner are green numbers which is the OSD for ffdshow. Of course you can turn it off, but I had it on while I was playing around with it. This is TT version 2.0.6 with no renderless vmr9 (now it is 2.2.1 which is way better) with simple ffdshow:

http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphoto.php/photo/12592/size/big/cat//ppuser/7480014.

PM me if you have any questions, or hell keep posting here. What else are we going to talk about besides rolling bars and lens cleaners? :D

Im getting no picture out of my 4805.

i checked the led light on the projector ...

It appears to be functioning normally..
1. green for a few seconds
2. blinking green for a few seconds .. as its starting up
3. solid green after that.

So according to the manual there is no problem.

HOWEVER...

1. obviously Something is wrong.
2. i pulled out the lamp enclosure. I noticed towards the centre area of the reflective part of the lamp there were some spirally marks in the surface. and a bit of roughing up. is this normal? ive never seen a bulb before. I also noticed a few little bits of silver tinsel stuck in the air filter.

If the lamp has failed why wont my 4805 flash red like its supposed to? What does a failed lamp look like?

Thanks
Luke

is there anyone that could take a second to reply to my problem please? or at least let me know if it doesnt make sense and ill reword it.

Does anyone have this Receiver and a 4805 using upconverting through your Component output of the Receiver? I have not been able to get it to work yet. Getting an Out of Signal Error(something like that). This is one of the reasons why I purchased the A/V receiver and have not used it yet. Its not a big deal just wondering if it works. I don't have a great need to use it. Its funny how you purchase something because one of its feature that you never or rarely use.

is there anyone that could take a second to reply to my problem please? or at least let me know if it doesnt make sense and ill reword it.

It's not unheard of, on occasion, the lamp fails to strike during the startup sequence but usually will after a few attempts. Whenever this occurs with me and others the no lamp strike is accompanied with the fans going on high as well. For what it's worth this startup sequence of no lamp strike with fans going on high is exactly what happens during upgrading firmware on the PJ.

The spiralling you note on the bulbs reflector is called crazing and has no direct relationship to the no lamp strike you are experiencing unless the damage has been caused by the bulb exploding in which case the source of your problem would, I think, be fairly obvious.

Generally, a good lamp will not strike if the lamp housing electrical connector is not seated properly or if the lamp door is either off or not completely closed. Therefore if those areas appear OK then odds are good your lamp is fried or your pj is suffering larger problem which Infocus would need to diagnose and repair.

For additional info specific to the 4805 you may wish to try the HTPC forums. :D

TheSensFan pretty much answered this but I would like to add a few things:

DVD Shrink is a program one uses to burn a DVD onto a single disk. Most DVDs are too large for a normal DVD-R or DVD+R. So Shrink will compress it in order to fit on a single disc. I also have DVD Decrytper for some newer DVDs. DVD Shrink will also let you burn certain scenes for different DVDs if you want a demo disc to show your setup and 4805. Don't think a D1 can do that. ;)

For 1:1 pixel-mapping, you have two options. Powerstrip or Nvidia drivers. I did not like the Nvidia drivers - they are funky. Powerstrip is easy, especially when you just have to plug in DaGamePimp's numbers. Also, Powerstrip is very easy for refresh rate changing (48 or 72) to avoid 3:2 pulldown for stutter free playback.

For DVD viewing, it is just like a normal DVD player. Pop it in and TT launches automatically. Of course, it needs to be configured for 3D vmr9, and any post-processors like ffdshow, Dscaler sharpness filters, or Nvidia PureVideo (which the 6xxx series already have). And you also have the option for renderless vmr9 in TT in which the 3D machine of the card essentially takes over, and TT has built-in scaling algorithms for top-notch DVD playback. Here is a sample screenshot. In the upper left-hand corner are green numbers which is the OSD for ffdshow. Of course you can turn it off, but I had it on while I was playing around with it. This is TT version 2.0.6 with no renderless vmr9 (now it is 2.2.1 which is way better) with simple ffdshow:

http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphoto.php/photo/12592/size/big/cat//ppuser/7480014.

PM me if you have any questions, or hell keep posting here. What else are we going to talk about besides rolling bars and lens cleaners? :D

Thank you both Geno and SensFan for your response...

What I derived from both of your responses is

1. Powerstrip will enable 1:1 pix map
2. A s/w player like T.T. is must to have. (Will a Powerdvd do to begin with?)
3. DVDShrink has no role to play unless you are ripping or buring DVDs.
4. ffdshow should be taken may be as a last step (once CPU/PC is upgraded)

Now here's the setup (the old PC lying around)

1. HP kayak P-III 500 MHz w/ 51m RAM (PC133)
2. DVD ROM Drive
3. Currently have ATI Radeon 7000 card (32MB) with DVI out.
4. No 5.1 sound card available yet, but will grab one soon.

Will this setup (with added sound card) and the assumtions mentioned above are good enough to begin the HTPC journey?

Your help is well appreciated.

Thanks again.....

Does anyone have this Receiver and a 4805 using upconverting through your Component output of the Receiver? I have not been able to get it to work yet. Getting an Out of Signal Error(something like that). This is one of the reasons why I purchased the A/V receiver and have not used it yet. Its not a big deal just wondering if it works. I don't have a great need to use it. Its funny how you purchase something because one of its feature that you never or rarely use.

Altho I have the 1014, I do not have my signal pass thru it to the 4805 only my sony HD crt.

The 1014 does not upconvert, it only transcodes svideo or composite the component video cables to allow you to view them on component. It does not upconvert the signal.

Does anyone have this Receiver and a 4805 using upconverting through your Component output of the Receiver? I have not been able to get it to work yet. Getting an Out of Signal Error(something like that). This is one of the reasons why I purchased the A/V receiver and have not used it yet. Its not a big deal just wondering if it works. I don't have a great need to use it. Its funny how you purchase something because one of its feature that you never or rarely use.

It does work for me i.e. "transcode" but it is somewhat "balky". I have Akai DVD/VCR combo which is hooked up both via composite (for VCR) and component (for DVR) to my Pioneer 1014. I only hooked up component from 1014 to InFocus 4805. When I go forth between DVD to VCR (very rarely!), sometimes I have to toggle the DVD/VCR switch on the combo unit *AND* also on on the Pioneer to select the correct source before the picture will show up but it does.

I am using TWO distinct incoming sources on my Pioneer to hookup the DVD/VCR combo. Composite video input to the pioneer gets "transcoded" to component video out. I presume this is what you were asking.

- Vikas

PM me if you have any questions, or hell keep posting here. What else are we going to talk about besides rolling bars and lens cleaners?

ROFL. lets argue about seating distance and SDE again for awhile...Im setting up a 2:35 set up and cant decide whether to go totally over the top on screen size and pretend Im in the front row at the theater or stick to the proper seating distance rules...

Thanks for the replies about the Pioneer 1014-TX

ROFL. lets argue about seating distance and SDE again for awhile...Im setting up a 2:35 set up and cant decide whether to go totally over the top on screen size and pretend Im in the front row at the theater or stick to the proper seating distance rules...

Go for a 12' wide CH setup. Screw the proper distances. :)

OK, am I missing out on some of the benifits of an HTPC. I have an ATI 9600se with DVI, I am able to pixel map with a resolution of 848x480 with the ATI drivers. I use Power DVD software (came free with dvd player)....,don't use power strip, ffdshow, or theatretek. I'm happy with my picture quality, is there much to be gained by using these additional programs?

Thanks

OK, am I missing out on some of the benifits of an HTPC. I have an ATI 9600se with DVI, I am able to pixel map with a resolution of 848x480 with the ATI drivers. I use Power DVD software (came free with dvd player)....,don't use power strip, ffdshow, or theatretek. I'm happy with my picture quality, is there much to be gained by using these additional programs?

Thanks

Ummmm, which ATI drivers let you pixel-map? I was using CAT 5.13 before I switched NVidia.

I am a firm believer in powerstrip and DaGamePimp's settings - and the simple ability to change refresh rates.

How fast are you? And are you using the video DVI RGB numbers? And does PowerDVD allow vmr9 or renderless vmr9 or is it overlay only?

Go for a 12' wide CH setup. Screw the proper distances.

Thank you SF, that is exactly what I'm going to do.....just needed a push.

Thats a great idea. Now I will have to buy the Xbox 360 VGA cable, but then I need a 25ft long Male VGA to M1 cable. Any thoughts where I can find this? Checked Ebay and nothing of that length. Cheapest I found so far for 25' was like $63 @ cablestogo


Thanks
Dave

monoprice is supposed to get them in in a couple weeks. $15 is a bit better eh? :)

is there an xbox360 vga VS component conclusion? does vga looked "washed out" on the 4805, or have the majority of folks preffered it?

Ummmm, which ATI drivers let you pixel-map? I was using CAT 5.13 before I switched NVidia.

I am a firm believer in powerstrip and DaGamePimp's settings - and the simple ability to change refresh rates.

How fast are you? And are you using the video DVI RGB numbers? And does PowerDVD allow vmr9 or renderless vmr9 or is it overlay only?Well, I thought I was pixel mapping but maybe not. If I go to the display tab in the ATI control panel and uncheck the DDC box, I am able to select a max. resolution. Here I can select 848x480, is this not setting the display resolution to the same? I think maybe I have alot to learn.

Wow monoprice has great prices. 25ft VGA cable is only $5. The M1-VGA is only $13 but not in stock till 1/27

Ill grab the M1 to VGA. If i buy a long VGA and use the m1-VGA wire that comes with the 4805 then I will be linking 3 cables together for my xbox which Im not sure if it would affect quality or no?

i have the same question. the microsoft vga cable to the infocus m1-vga is not quite long enough so i'd be linking them with 6ft of monoprice svga (ferrite core cable). is this a bad idea? should i wait for the monoprice vga/mi cable so i only have two links in the chain? (+ a male-female adapter)??

Hello, all..

Just thought I'd share a less-than-pleasant experience I just had with my projector.

Earlier today I got back from a week away from the projector, and turned on the projector, but didn't get a reasonable picture. Instead of the standard Infocus logo, I just got black and white horizontal bands with random color variations on some pixels. As is usually the case, a picture truly is worth a thousand words. Take a look here:

http://pics.omnux.com/Misc-4805BlackWhiteBanding

I've put up three pictures. The first picture is of the entire screen. The last two pictures are from a couple of feet away from the screen.

What I observed:

The projector is about 5 months old (a refurb, though) and the bulb has less than 100 hours on it; the firmware is 1.13.

The only button that responded on the remote was essentially the power button. Pressing the other buttons did nothing to the display. The display just contained the same black and white bands all the time. I tried changing sources, etc etc. Nothing seemed to matter.

I didn't see the normal Infocus logo at power on time. The bulb intensity changed after a few seconds of being powered on, just as it always has.. I just couldn't see anything other than the banding.

I tried powering it off via the remote. I tried changing sources with different signals. Nothing worked. At that point, I took the pictures above, turned the projector off at the power switch, and unplugged the unit for half an hour or so.

Then, upon plugging the projector back in, everything started working again. So, the moral of the story.. If you have similiar pictures attempting to give you a heart attack at some point in the future, try a physical power reset. It might just fix your problem like it did mine.

Thank you both Geno and SensFan for your response...

What I derived from both of your responses is

1. Powerstrip will enable 1:1 pix map
2. A s/w player like T.T. is must to have. (Will a Powerdvd do to begin with?)
3. DVDShrink has no role to play unless you are ripping or buring DVDs.
4. ffdshow should be taken may be as a last step (once CPU/PC is upgraded)

Now here's the setup (the old PC lying around)

1. HP kayak P-III 500 MHz w/ 51m RAM (PC133)
2. DVD ROM Drive
3. Currently have ATI Radeon 7000 card (32MB) with DVI out.
4. No 5.1 sound card available yet, but will grab one soon.

Will this setup (with added sound card) and the assumtions mentioned above are good enough to begin the HTPC journey?

Your help is well appreciated.

Thanks again.....

Geno, SensFan, Clams,

Please help...

Clams and other HTPC Gurus,

If one decides to go by HTPC route,

is it must that you first use DVD Shrink to rip the DVD on disk, then use some software (ffdshow?) to massage it and then play it from the disk using a player like power dvd?
or
can you just play the DVD from your PC (as you normally do from a DVD player), and set the configuration on powerdvd to 854x480 to enable 1;1 pixel map?

I am little confused here by the role played by the DVD Shrink/ffdshow and like.

I am planning to revive my old PC lying around and hence wanted to get an idea...

Thanks,

OK... we're mixing apples and hammers here. :)

AnyDVD is the commercial ripper that will rip any DVD to the drive regardless of protection. DVDShrink is a free ripper/shrinker that can hook to the Nero burner tool. It'll rip DVD's that aren't rip-protected, and shrink a DVD9 onto a DVD 4.5 You don't need to rip a DVD to PLAY a DVD right off the DVD drive though.

Theater Tek is a ($99) commercial player software that allows post processing to further refine an image. FFDShow is a post-prosessor.

Power DVD is also a commercial Player but older versions are almost free. I have a "free" Version that will install on any PC so long as it has a Sony brand DVD drive on board. The version I have is overlay. the Nero burning suite that comes free with all the Sony DRU series DVD burners also has a decent overlay player included.

What you need depends on what you want to get, prosessor speed, and what you wanna spend. And remember that given the PJ resolution, the theory of diminishing returns kicks in pretty hard and fast too. My machine is at the "Way budget" end.

To "get started" started all you need is a DVD drive, an overlay software player, and a Video card that'll do 848x480 to DVI. (as well as a 5.1 sound card). With at setup, you'll meet or exceed 99% of the stand alone DVD players.

If you have a higher HP PC than 1g, and $100 you can buy Theater-Tek and use the freeware FFDShow to post-process. If your weak and cheap and can rip you CAN "misuse" DVDshrink (set it to shrink a movie to 98%) as a poor mans "pre-proscessor" that allows 4 different settings From Max-smooth to Max-sharp.

Powerstrip (freeware) only provides an easy way to manipulate the video card settings.

If I was gonna go from scratch (for CHEAP) I'd take an old PC and add a new Sony DVD drive/burner ($79) and use the included Nero suite player, get the free DVDShrink 3.2 as well as pay for the AnyDVD ripper online. And you have all you need to initially rip/burn and play any movie. Claibrate the thing with the free THX tool from Revenge of the Sith. This will work even on a P2-400 with an Nvidia 5200 and an SB Live 5.1 and beat most any stand-alone player. MINIMUM config!!

As money permits, add TheaterTek and if CPU power permits add FFDshow.

This all make sence? An HTPC is as good as you put into it, but the difference from MIN to MAX config in PQ on a 480p PJ is IMHO about a 5% difference. That said many here will go those extra 10 miles to GET that difference. I don't.

-W

If I was gonna go from scratch (for CHEAP) I'd take an old PC and add a new Sony DVD drive/burner ($79) Yikes! I'd never add a Sony drive/burner, especially if it cost $79! Get an NEC 3550 for half the price and you'll have twice as good a burner.

Thank you both Geno and SensFan for your response...

What I derived from both of your responses is

1. Powerstrip will enable 1:1 pix map
2. A s/w player like T.T. is must to have. (Will a Powerdvd do to begin with?)
3. DVDShrink has no role to play unless you are ripping or buring DVDs.
4. ffdshow should be taken may be as a last step (once CPU/PC is upgraded)

..

1. Powerstrip makes it easier to set up the video driver settings for a 1:1 map. Some of us just use the drivers.

2. Yes, a software player is a must. T.T. is the best, but anything will get you started. Whatever you use, THX it in the DARK.

3. True - unless you wanna misuse it to do a little "pre-processing" IMHO that's not really needed, but I've done it to see if it works, and it does.

4. That PC will never handle FFDshow - but TT has a bundled Nvidia post-prosessor with it, that lot of older PC's CAN handle OK.

-W

Yikes! I'd never add a Sony drive/burner, especially if it cost $79! Get an NEC 3550 for half the price and you'll have twice as good a burner.

I picked the Sony because I'm SURE comes with the ENTIRE Nero suite bundled. And Nero is the ONLY burning software that hooks directly into DVDShrink. You can get it cheaper than $79, but a burner and the Nero suite is worth that easily. That's all. I have no brand preference for Sony - but the package works out well for HTPC types with DVDShrink. ( As well as the fact that there's a "free" PowerDVD out there that's "Sony drive only" )

-W

I picked the Sony because I'm SURE comes with the Nero suite bundled. And Nero is the ONLY burning software that hooks directly into DVDShrink. You can get it cheaper than $79, but a burner and the Nero suite is worth that easily.Take a look at this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16827152055

Take a look at this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16827152055

It won't burn DVD-9's AND

From your very link:

"Included Software will NOT play DVD Movies without paying a lot more money.

Pros: Fast Order. Packaged well. Installation was easy....

Cons: As noted in title: DVDs will not play using the OEM Nero software. I would have bought a bare drive had I known this.... More »

Other Thoughts: I am seriously upset about being misled by product description."


Defence rests :D

-W

It won't burn DVD-9's AND

From your very link:

"Included Software will NOT play DVD Movies without paying a lot more money.

Pros: Fast Order. Packaged well. Installation was easy....

Cons: As noted in title: DVDs will not play using the OEM Nero software. I would have bought a bare drive had I known this.... More »

Other Thoughts: I am seriously upset about being misled by product description."


Defence rests :D

-WAs this drive and the capabilities of its included software are evidently new to you I'll just let my recommendation stand for those who want look into a superior, less-expensive alternative to the Sony drive.

My preference would be buying the OEM version of the drive for about $5 less and putting the difference toward a better software player.

Nothing against the drive...... I just don't know it, it does not claim to burn DVD-9's, and it APPEARS to come with a crippled Nero suite - solely based on the user feedback on the link.

Past that I love it.

-W (who also hate Sony for all it's proprietary DVD protection crapola)

I think one would be hard-pressed to find a modern DVD burner that didn't handle dual layer. I assume that is what you mean by "DVD-9's"? I'm curious as to what recent drives you've seen that would make you wonder about that.

Here are the specs from the manufacturer's site: 3550A DVD±R DL (http://support.necsam.com/optical/ND3550A_specs.asp). The DL indicates dual layer.

I paid $70 somthing for a Memorex DVD-RL burner and it also came with the full version of Nero suite.

I paid $70 somthing for a Memorex DVD+/-R DL burner and it also came with the full version of Nero suite.

Dear All, I searched the whole forum for the answer but stil have some doubts.

I do own an INFOCUS X1 connected to a HTPC. Which Preset should I choose for viewing? Presentation mode or Film/Video mode? Does Film and Video mode differs from User Presets? Presentation mode seems to boost brightness and causes some artificial pictures. Is it the preset to calibrate gamma and contrast/brightness? It seems like I loose the details on blacks, the image seems dark. I can not understand why? I use the latest NVIDIA drivers for my FX5200 video card. Can this make any negative effect? Should I switch back to my old driver? I heard that new NVIDIA drivers have an undesirable effect on monitor contrasts.

Looking forward to your reply,

I think one would be hard-pressed to find a modern DVD burner that didn't handle dual layer. I assume that is what you mean by "DVD-9's"? I'm curious as to what recent drives you've seen that would make you wonder about that.

Here are the specs from the manufacturer's site: 3550A DVD±R DL (http://support.necsam.com/optical/ND3550A_specs.asp). The DL indicates dual layer.


This was the drive I was thinking of when I said you can do better then $99 the other day.
GREAT drive, DEF does dual layer (dual format) and was on sale for $39 last week.

Bundled Nero is fine.
Gotta luv those reviews of people who have NO clue what they are doing with a PC.
That is a solid Drive.

BTW, sony doesn't make drives, they rebadge someone else's (like Lite-on) for example.
Paid $60 for the name $5 for nero and $35 for the actual drive).

I think one would be hard-pressed to find a modern DVD burner that didn't handle dual layer. I assume that is what you mean by "DVD-9's"? I'm curious as to what recent drives you've seen that would make you wonder about that.

Here are the specs from the manufacturer's site: 3550A DVD±R DL (http://support.necsam.com/optical/ND3550A_specs.asp). The DL indicates dual layer.

Ok I stand corrected, It does burn DL in the -R format. And roger on the the other guy that also posted a good drive. I've had no problems with the Sony drive with one at $99 and the other at $39. Yanno, as opposed to attacking the intent of the post with Sony bashing, it would have been nicer to just tack on a few more drives that met the same goals + Nero. The intent of my post wasn't brand snobbery.

-W

are the PQ all the same.

Looking at a new DVD player. Since OPPO does not have the 1:1 and the Bravo loader seems flimzy, I am thinking about the Momitsu. Just wanted to know of the 3 models available if they all give the same PQ on the 4805.

V880
V880-DX
V880N

The intent of my post wasn't brand snobbery.No problem. I didn't want to derail the discussion even this far, but I wanted to provide a far better and less expensive alternative to the Sony drive, particularly since we've been talking about how inexpensive an HTPC can be.

I bought DVE and was working with it last night and I have a question, I am having trouble with the color adjustment where Green is concerned. Reds and Blues are perfect with the provided filters but I can t really get green to do much It appears that maybe this unit favors red ( I think I read that somewhere in here a while back). So for all you veterans out there is there a way to get Green fully calibrated or do I just have to "live with it" being close.

L

I strongly suggest Lite On drives, been buying them for CDR and DVDR for years and always very happy. Often cheap, last one I bought was a DL 8x drive for about $40 with Nero included, still use it today.

I emailed Infocus to get a noise level rating for their new lineup of projectors. I stated that I have a 4805 and the only disappointing thing was the noise level, and was hoping the new projectors would be quieter.

Here is their response...

>>Hi Sean,

Thank you for contacting InFocus. In response to your request, InFocus
does not publish the noise level of these units but as a general rule,
the new IN72, IN74EX and IN76 will be quieter than the SP4805. They
have worked on the fan noise and color wheel noise to decrease it as
much as possible in these new models. Please let us know if you have
any further questions. Thank you!



Amber LaCombe

Direct Sales Rep<<


Draw your own conclusions!


Sean

MaximAVS,
I believe Bob Williams stated in the other thread that the new models noise level in high power mode is quieter than the 4805 in low power. So take that as you will. :)

I guess I was looking for a number!

I remember that the 4805 was rated at like 39db. And with quite a few people talking about fan noise AND color wheel noise, a noise level would have been nice.

Sean

homer1963, this is a qoute from Bob Williams in the new Infocus projector thread, perhaps it applies to the 4805 also:

"There are numerous practical reasons to choose the color point that we did. It allows for a brighter, higher contrast image without changing the perceived colors dramatically. Green is the least objectionable color point to shift in this way. Both blue and red (as well as the 3 secondary colors) are pretty much right on the REC709 color points. "

MaximAVS

Infocus has never published noise ratings - this is a number more abused by marketers than anything else - and Infocus refuses to play that game. Even when they make a new projector quieter in high power than the old one in low power. Much of the reason for the new case design is about noise and light control.

Go for a 12' wide CH setup. Screw the proper distances. :)

Actually the distance rules even though given for screen width are based on screen height scan line resolution. So figure your CH setup using the same 16:9 screen height screen width rules - so you CAN get a wider viewing angle with CinemaScope.

Scottwood,

Currently the 6600gt is going to give you the best bang for the buck. It kind of reminds me of the old ti4200; nothing could beat it in that price range.

The 6800gt has some issue with it not being able to do hardware rendering with the pure video decoders thus taxing the cpu more intensively then the 6600gt. I'm sure there are a lot of pissed off 6800 owners when this came to light.

For the 4805 i'm sure that any of the 6xxx series cards would do fine since 1:1 pixel mapping is ONLY 848x480 (854 if you can get powerstrip to work correctly with it) That being said I would still spend the extra 30 bucks and get the 6600gt because nothing in its price range can even touch it.

You can find these cards EASILY for well under $150.


Thx for the reply but that is exactly my point. I am going to build a HTPC. the 6150 mother boards sell for let than $100 and they are geared to the HTPC market. Don't get me wrong here, the 6600gt is way better than what is included with these MB but for home theater do I need it?

Scottwood,

For htpc use the 6150 chipset would be adequate i'm sure as it can output resolutions up to 1080i and also take advantage of nvidia purevideo. Those mobo's are pretty fat. I'm sure that by the time 1080p pj's come down in price to where they are in this forum we will have all upgraded our htpc's.

Now that i'm looking at the asus with the 6150 I want to retire my gaming rig from htpc duties and build a REAL htpc.

Let me know how it works!

I bought DVE and was working with it last night and I have a question, I am having trouble with the color adjustment where Green is concerned. Reds and Blues are perfect with the provided filters but I can t really get green to do much It appears that maybe this unit favors red ( I think I read that somewhere in here a while back). So for all you veterans out there is there a way to get Green fully calibrated or do I just have to "live with it" being close.

L

This is a different question than gamut - which is what Bob was referring to. Gamut is the color of color and has to do with the color wheel, color decoding is the brightness (or value) of a color.

This test pattern is to verify the accuracy of your color decoder - but is for your info only - there are no color decoder controls on any of the ScreenPlay projectors. Do not mistake the controls labeled RGB as color decoder controls - those are greyscale controls - which if you adjusted you likely screwed up the factories D65 setting.

I have also heard this complaint about green filter/pattern in regards to DVE - don't use it and never investigated it. Here is a trick though to eliminate the use of filters - using the greyscale RGB controls pull Blue and Red gain all the way down (Just write down where it was to begin with!) Now you have green only mode! Ditto for Blue and Red only modes - pull the other two colors down.

1. Powerstrip makes it easier to set up the video driver settings for a 1:1 map. Some of us just use the drivers.

2. Yes, a software player is a must. T.T. is the best, but anything will get you started. Whatever you use, THX it in the DARK.

3. True - unless you wanna misuse it to do a little "pre-processing" IMHO that's not really needed, but I've done it to see if it works, and it does.

4. That PC will never handle FFDshow - but TT has a bundled Nvidia post-prosessor with it, that lot of older PC's CAN handle OK.

-W

Thank you very much Clams for this and the earlier detailed response.

I have downloaded powerstrip and installed on my PC and was trying to play with it. Some how I am not able to change the resolution to 854 x 480. Can this happen only when I connect the PC to SP4805?

Also I read at many places about DaGamePimp's timings. Are these timings to be set in advance timing section option in the display profiles configuration?

I could figure out the following
HFP=24 HSW=88 HBP=96 kHz=24 VFP=1 VSW=3 VBP=13 Hz=48

but not sure where to set those below
848x480=848,24,88,96,480,1,3,13,25167,2304

Thank you very much for being patient in answering my (dumb?) questions..

Scott Wood,
$4 a movie! Have you tried online DVD rental? I pay less than $2 a movie, and you can use this type of service from anywhere in the US.

I could figure out the following
HFP=24 HSW=88 HBP=96 kHz=24 VFP=1 VSW=3 VBP=13 Hz=48

but not sure where to set those below
848x480=848,24,88,96,480,1,3,13,25167,2304

Don't worry about the second set of numbers...its just another way of stating the 1st set. The 1st set allows you to copy and paste them directly into powerstrip. DGPs numbers were optimized for ATI cards and though many use them then Nvidia, your results may vary.....

Scottwood,

For htpc use the 6150 chipset would be adequate i'm sure as it can output resolutions up to 1080i and also take advantage of nvidia purevideo. Those mobo's are pretty fat. I'm sure that by the time 1080p pj's come down in price to where they are in this forum we will have all upgraded our htpc's.

Now that i'm looking at the asus with the 6150 I want to retire my gaming rig from htpc duties and build a REAL htpc.

Let me know how it works!

How many PCI slots have you found on the 6150 boards? I have yet to find anything with more then 2.

Don't worry about the second set of numbers...its just another way of stating the 1st set. The 1st set allows you to copy and paste them directly into powerstrip. DGPs numbers were optimized for ATI cards and though many use them then Nvidia, your results may vary.....

Thanks Brian...

Yup.. I finally could get hold of how to enter these setting by going through the HTPC forum.

The only issue was, after pasting these numbers, my monitor though accepted the resolution, it could not display anything. So I am assuming that this will not happen with actual 4805, am I right?

I am waiting on my M1-D adapter from monoprice, which should be here on Wed. Hence I can not test directly with the PJ.

Any other valuable suggestions welcome...

Thanks again...

Nope: The cards will only do 848x480 not 854. Close enough, you'll never miss 3 pixels.

-W

Ok you bastiches?? Who waved a rubber chicken at my Sony DRU810A ??

The sucker developed a thermal intermittent is seems. After burning 2 disks in a row, it burns only coasters until it get a couple hours rest.

Looks like it's headed back to Best Buy in the morning.... <sigh>

But I know one of you clowns did this!!!!!! :D

-W

"Defence rests :D"?

I was trying to be kind, but the Sony drives have an atrocious reliability record. That's my main problem with them. (Other than their sad price/performance ratio.)

Too many people report premature deaths of them.

over a year ago looking for a Reliable DVD burner
Tom's Hardware -- tested DVD burners (http://www.tomshardware.com/2005/12/30/the_latest_dvd_writers_true_speeds/)
and the CLEAR winner then was the NEC 3520A (only writer then to successfully burn a DL)
and NOW as you can read in the latest Test CONCLUSION:
"Of all the units we tested for this article, two models had the best overall performance: the NEC ND-3540A and the Toshiba SDR-5472"

i have burned about 250 DVD+R discs (i like maxell) to date and only maybe 2-3 coasters.

lately iam burning DL (Maxtor purple media) discs.....
but only after i UPdated the FirmWare on my NEC3520A -> v3.06
so recommend any1 trying to burn DL upDate their Burner's FirmWare

----DVDshrink 3.2 will pass the burn off to NERO or DVDdecrypter
yes----DVDdecrypter also BURNS the .iso file to your disc (and ShutDown Computer when it's finished)
also like DVDshrink -- Decrypter is ShareWare

but for burning DL discs iam using NERO7 ReCode (set DVD-9 8.5GB)

i was using a HTPC w/ATI7500 card -> DVI -> 4805
setting PowerStrip for 848x480 @ 47.952hz vertical refresh does MAKE a Difference i could see with FILM over just using the 848x480@60hz overlay resolution from the ATI drivers

tradewinds
are the PQ all the same.

Looking at a new DVD player. Since OPPO does not have the 1:1 and the Bravo loader seems flimzy, I am thinking about the Momitsu. Just wanted to know of the 3 models available if they all give the same PQ on the 4805.

V880
V880-DX
V880N

yes Bravo & Momitsu both use Sigma-8500 chip which allows for CUSTOM Resolution Setup similar to PowerStrip....
and there are NO 8bit boundaries so you can enter 854x480

but be advised--- i bot the V880-DX thinking it would have all the BUGS worked out
and still had to replace the new EPO-Loader before it was Reliable

The Ultimate Momitsu 880 Modifications (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=619493)

Any compelling resons to get the V880N over the V880-DX?

Also, about the loader, which one would you go with today that is readily available? If the loader is not replaced, how un-reliable will it be?

Thanks.

ok, I got my Bravo D1 2 weeks ago and it's now hooked up to my 4805, The picture is just spectacular!!! :)

How do I set the D1 to display 854x480 and custom refresh rate? Also whats the best setting you all have?


If you could refer me to a post that would be great!

Knowing how great the pic is, I am thinking of putting together a HTPC with the spare parts I will have since I'm thinking of putting a new PC together.


Thanks

Any compelling resons to get the V880N over the V880-DX?

Also, about the loader, which one would you go with today that is readily available? If the loader is not replaced, how un-reliable will it be?

Thanks.

I believe the N version allows you to connect the player to your network and stream media off of it. Not worth the $380 IMO.

ok, I got my Bravo D1 2 weeks ago and it's now hooked up to my 4805, The picture is just spectacular!!!



Now I wonder how the D1 PQ compares to the V880-DX


I believe the N version allows you to connect the player to your network and stream media off of it. Not worth the $380 IMO.

Yep, I agree. Not worth it and I probably won't use that feature much anyway.

Thanks Brian...

The only issue was, after pasting these numbers, my monitor though accepted the resolution, it could not display anything. So I am assuming that this will not happen with actual 4805, am I right?




This is normal. The 4805 will be able to accept the resolution. My PC monitor also shows a blank screen whenever I enter the setting.

The 6150 Gigabyte or MSI have 3 PCI slots.

How do I set the D1 to display 854x480 and custom refresh rate?BRAVO D1 854x480@48Hz DVI Custom Settings:

Horizontal Freq 23688 Vertical Freq 4795
Video Width 0854 Video Height 0480
HSyncTotal 1030 PreHSync 0008
HsyncActive 0080 PostHSync 0088
VSyncTotal 0494 PreVSync 0001
VSyncActive 0003 PostVSync 0010
HSyncPolarity 0000 VSyncPolarity 0000

DVI Out = Custom
TV Type = 16:9

SP4805 defaults all the way except:

RGB Gains (3) = 58
RGB Offsets (3) = 28.5
White Peaking = 0
Aspect Ratio = Native

anyone with a 1:1 pixel mapped HTPC care to comment on what text looks like? I have a friend who is interested in a 4805 to do computer programming. He codes for days, not hours at a time, and thinks a PJ would be easier on his eyes. I suggested that he looks into something thats 4:3 with a high native res, but Im interested in seeing comments.

Thanks!

It's worth trying but I don't know how much I would want to stare at the screen doing text stuff. It's sharp and all but I think that color wheel thing might cause headaches after a long time... might be a good time to look at an lcd projector made for presentations instead....

Thanks for the quick replys!


How to access the custom DVI menu on D1?

Press SETUP on the remote. Scroll to the Video Setting section and enter that area and highlight HD DVI OUT.
Key in 9713 on the remote.
In the Custom Settings menu input the custom settings.
Press ENTER to accept.
Press SETUP to exit the setup menu.

Nope: The cards will only do 848x480 not 854. Close enough, you'll never miss 3 pixels.

-W

Clams,

Yes, I meant 848x480.

Though the custom resolution is created with all numbers in place, it shows pixel clock as 25.167. Is this because I am currently connected to my flat panel monitor and not actually to PJ. Will it show 47.xxx once I connect to PJ?

I too have a NEC dl burner that has been working great... from Newegg. About $40 OEM.

I use DvD Shrink and only once have had to use DvD Decrypter. A friend gave me DvD Xcopy but I haven't felt the need to use it... it might be better but I'm not sure.
Here's some links...
http://www.dvdshrink.org/what.html
http://www.afterdawn.com/software/video_software/dvd_rippers/dvd_decrypter.cfm

To Burn disks I've been using
http://www.imgburn.com/

It's been working Great and is Free as well.

I also Have a Lite-On CD-R and Nero (from Newegg) on another PC that I only use for Audio. I've wanted to try and put that Nero on my PC w/ The NEC DvD-RW but I think it only works w/ the burner it came w/ (lite-on). Anyone know if those Nero OEM suite programs will work on other drives?

How about a Program for backing up files on DvD... Anyone know of a good Freeware one?

RD

I've been reading through the threads and still not real clear...

Is it worth it to get Digital HD cable for the 4805? Or is plain Digital just fine? What more does the HD do for you if it's going to be scaled down?

I really don't watch much TV but I'd like to get On Demand... right now I just have Limited analog cable. Comcast has a deal... Digital cable and HBO for $35 for 6 months. They're going to hook me up this week and for $5 more I get HDTV. So I said yes.

My friend told me since the 4805 is going to downscale everything it won't do much for me. But I've read on AVS that people still like it & Japhule's FAQ says it works but it's scaled down. http://japhule.collinsreport.com/4805FAQ/html/index.html#Q45

Isn't the only way to get 16:9 TV on the 4805 to have HD? OR does plain Digital Cable still have widescreen and HD just mean 720P or 1080i?

Believe me I've been reading and haven't come across the answer... maybe this is just to simple of a question.

I also remember reading that it would be best to run the HD cablebox at 480P w/ Componet cables rather than DVI. I was hoping the Cable Guy would hook me up w/ a DVI cable but now I'm not sure if I want one. (the Phone rep said the Cable Guy would have everything I need to be hooked up to HD after I asked her If I should get a DVI cable... she wasn't sure what DVI was... no surprise)

Could someone help straighten me out on this HDTV situation? My other TV is just a plain 32" 4:3... does it make sense for me to get HDTV for my limited viewing on the 4805? & if so... what's the best hook up?

Thanks,
RD

My friend told me since the 4805 is going to downscale everything it won't do much for me. But I've read on AVS that

Yes, get the HD. It will be worth it to see your friends expression when he sees the image quality of the that crappy 4805 downscaling the HD. :eek:

I've posted on this a lot over the 18months I've had this projector. HD is drastically superior over SDTV on 4805, everything else being equal. Color, contrast are dramatic improvements, as well as filling 16:9 screen.

As has been said many many times, resolution is not the end all and be all. Sit 2x screen width and its just not a factor.

I am over 12' back on a 92" screen (80" W)and resolution is not an issue. Frankly, if I sit much closer I have to move my head which I hate. I don't know how anyone can sit 1.25, it would be like watching a tennis match.

I don't rent/buy DVDs much anymore since I got HDDVR. I am enjoying HD movies now while its going to be years before the dust settles in the HD DVD, Blue Ray wars.

Thanks Brian I am... & dmcdayton

Yes, I think HD is going to be good and I did figure out my lame question about Widescreen... Only w/ HD will widescreen be.

A question for those w/ a TV in the same room as the 4805... The gal I just talked to @ Comcast told me I'd need 2 ST Boxes in the same room to run both units... Is this true? Couldn't I run Componet to the 4805 and S-vid to my TV from just one box?

Componet Switching on a Denon:
I have a 2 In 1 Out on my Denon that I've never used. What do you think about sending Componet from my DvD and HDcable Box through my Denon 1804 out to the 4805. ... will it degrade the signal ?

I'm thinking it would be easiest to run DVI from the cable Box and Componet from my DvD but I've read DVI is not so good when downscaling to 480P... er something?

Thanks,
RD

I use a denon to switch component and I don't see any degradation in signal. Also, if your cable box outputs signals on multiple connections simultaneously, then you will not need another cable box.

[QUOTE=Russ D]
A question for those w/ a TV in the same room as the 4805... The gal I just talked to @ Comcast told me I'd need 2 ST Boxes in the same room to run both units... Is this true? Couldn't I run Componet to the 4805 and S-vid to my TV from just one box?

The only reason that you would need 2 STB's is if you wanted to watch both the tv and projector at the same time. And that is only if your STB does not output the signal on both the DVI and component simultaneously.

Componet Switching on a Denon:
I have a 2 In 1 Out on my Denon that I've never used. What do you think about sending Componet from my DvD and HDcable Box through my Denon 1804 out to the 4805. ... will it degrade the signal ?

That's your best bet and easiest way to do it. Run the STB and DVD player into the Denon. Then you can run a single component cable from the Denon into a cheap $15 Radio Shack switcher and send the signal to either the tv or the 4805.

Or if you prefer, you can just use the cheap switcher for the video signal and leave the Denon out of the loop entirely.

anyone with a 1:1 pixel mapped HTPC care to comment on what text looks like? I have a friend who is interested in a 4805 to do computer programming. He codes for days, not hours at a time, and thinks a PJ would be easier on his eyes. I suggested that he looks into something thats 4:3 with a high native res, but Im interested in seeing comments.

Thanks!

Text is razor sharp under this scenario, but I totally recommend against using this setup for programming. 848x480 is way too little screen real estate for programmers!

Thanks Brian...

Yup.. I finally could get hold of how to enter these setting by going through the HTPC forum.

The only issue was, after pasting these numbers, my monitor though accepted the resolution, it could not display anything. So I am assuming that this will not happen with actual 4805, am I right?

I am waiting on my M1-D adapter from monoprice, which should be here on Wed. Hence I can not test directly with the PJ.

Any other valuable suggestions welcome...

Thanks again...

Most PC monitors cannot handle a 48Hz refresh rate ;) .

------- Jason

Nope: The cards will only do 848x480 not 854. Close enough, you'll never miss 3 pixels.

-W

Actually 854x480 can be done with the newer nvidia cards and more recent driver sets , I am using 854 right now from my HTPC (Luis made this discovery quite a while back) . It certainly is not an issue to use 848x480 however since it is still mapped , just not 1:1 for the panel .

------------- Jason

Thanks Brian I am... & dmcdayton

Yes, I think HD is going to be good and I did figure out my lame question about Widescreen... Only w/ HD will widescreen be.

A question for those w/ a TV in the same room as the 4805... The gal I just talked to @ Comcast told me I'd need 2 ST Boxes in the same room to run both units... Is this true? Couldn't I run Componet to the 4805 and S-vid to my TV from just one box?

Componet Switching on a Denon:
I have a 2 In 1 Out on my Denon that I've never used. What do you think about sending Componet from my DvD and HDcable Box through my Denon 1804 out to the 4805. ... will it degrade the signal ?

I'm thinking it would be easiest to run DVI from the cable Box and Componet from my DvD but I've read DVI is not so good when downscaling to 480P... er something?

Thanks,
RD

Just Don't let the Cable guy leave until everthing works!!! After they have your money they are hard to get back.

Actually 854x480 can be done with the newer nvidia cards and more recent driver sets , I am using 854 right now from my HTPC (Luis made this discovery quite a while back) . It certainly is not an issue to use 848x480 however since it is still mapped , just not 1:1 for the panel .

------------- Jason


Define "newer" for me please Jason?? I spent half a day farting around with my 5700 and the 7777 drivers and got nowhere - so I reverted back.

-W

Thanks Brian I am... & dmcdayton

Yes, I think HD is going to be good and I did figure out my lame question about Widescreen... Only w/ HD will widescreen be.

A question for those w/ a TV in the same room as the 4805... The gal I just talked to @ Comcast told me I'd need 2 ST Boxes in the same room to run both units... Is this true? Couldn't I run Componet to the 4805 and S-vid to my TV from just one box?

Thanks,
RD


I am not sure what connections Comcast ST box have but my sat box I do this. I actually run component to the 4805, composite to my 36 inch TV and S-Video to my HTPC.

I think the Comcast (Motorola) HD cable box broadcasts through all of its outputs simultaneously (coax, S-Video, component, composite, DVI). I know for sure it does composite, coax and component simultaneously (those are the only ones I've been able to test). You would certainly not need two cable boxes in one room unless you needed to use the same kind of connection for both devices.

I just got my SA3250HD box from Time Warner last night and I am currently running the component to the 4805 and the coax to my 32" SDTV simultaneously. No issues with that, and I was surprised to see that the box even downscales the HD channels so that they display on the SDTV ! So far I'm happy with my HD box.

The Comcast rep was probably assuming that you wanted to watch different tv sources on each display, in this case, you would need 2 cable boxes (unless you're doing basic analog for one of them into a tuner).

Is it ME or the FIRMWARE?

Had my 4805 back for repair and it now has 1.2.1 firmware.

I am trying to set the gains to 58 and 28.5 as recomended.

The directions from Ja Phules FAQ say to:
Picture/advanced/ then set red, blue and green .

The problem is that the Advanced page has all setting greyed out except for Video standard and Sync threshold.

Using Oppo 971H, DVI-M1 cable and when connected I get picture OK and Menu says "Computer 480p".

Any advice appreciated.

Is it ME or the FIRMWARE?

Had my 4805 back for repair and it now has 1.2.1 firmware.

I am trying to set the gains to 58 and 28.5 as recomended.

The directions from Ja Phules FAQ say to:
Picture/advanced/ then set red, blue and green .

The problem is that the Advanced page has all setting greyed out except for Video standard and Sync threshold.

Using Oppo 971H, DVI-M1 cable and when connected I get picture OK and Menu says "Computer 480p".

Any advice appreciated.

That is odd. I'm using the 1.13 firmware and the options are not greyed out for me. I don't remember sync threshold being available for DVI either. have you tried 720p to see if the options is available as a test?

By the way, you don't HAVE to change the gains/offsets to 58/28.5. You could just do the contrast/brightness instead, which I believe would work the same, but I have not tried it yet.

Is it ME or the FIRMWARE?

Had my 4805 back for repair and it now has 1.2.1 firmware.

I am trying to set the gains to 58 and 28.5 as recomended.

The directions from Ja Phules FAQ say to:
Picture/advanced/ then set red, blue and green .

The problem is that the Advanced page has all setting greyed out except for Video standard and Sync threshold.

Only time those and other picture adjustment menu items should be greyed out is when there is no input signal.

Using Oppo 971H, DVI-M1 cable and when connected I get picture OK and Menu says "Computer 480p".

Any advice appreciated.

And if you go back to the menu while you're getting the picture through DVI, are those items still greyed out? (Sorry, it wasn't clear to me from the post.) If so, it's not you, it's the 4805. One thing to try before taking it up with the tech support is to restore the factory setting.

joe

By the way, you don't HAVE to change the gains/offsets to 58/28.5. You could just do the contrast/brightness instead, which I believe would work the same, but I have not tried it yet.

Well, my observation is mostly subjective since I've not developed the obsessive tweaking urge :) , but... While my M1-DVI was functioning, the DVD playback from my computer looked washed-out with just the brightness/contrast adjustment (I simply use the THX Optimizer from one of my DVDs for those settings). After putting brightness and contrast to default, plugging in the magic RGB gain/offset numbers, then readjusting the brightness/contrast, the picture quality was much better - subjectively much better than my bottom-of-the-line Sony DVD player in both 480i and 480p via component. "Cleaner" and "crisper" would be two other very subjective words I'd use to describe the perceived improvement.

The same settings worked great as is with the HDMI output of HD programs through SA8300HD, SD signals via HDMI wasn't so good.

joe (what are the odds my M1-DVI input would magically start functioning again?)

Define "newer" for me please Jason?? I spent half a day farting around with my 5700 and the 7777 drivers and got nowhere - so I reverted back.

-W

Ooops sorry for leaving that out , by newer I mean the 6xxx and 7xxx series (nvidia video cards) ;) .

--------- Jason

jkim5453 ,

It is highly doubtful that the DVI will start functioning again all on its own :( . It seems that once it fails it stays that way . This is a somewhat common issue with many displays , I have heard of it happening on just about every PJ , RPTV , LCD Flat Panel , Plasma , etc.

---------- Jason

My ceiling is 92". If I can get the 4805 mounted within 6" of the ceiling, will it hurt if the projecter is slightly tilted front to rear. I would be doing this to bring the image closer to the ceiling. Will this effect the image quality or anything else negative?

Also,my screen is going to be 57"x102" projected from 18' according to projector central specs. Seating is 18' to 19' from screen. I don't know if this presents any negatives since I am projecting from a lower ceiling. I would go slightly smaller if need be.

Bill Blakeman ,

--- As long as the tilt is very slight and then you can slightly tilt the screen to match then there would be minimal image quality loss . Do not use the keystone adjustment to correct as this will degrade the image quality .

---------- Jason

It was ME and not the Firmware

After a restart I found the gain settings and PQ is just fine.

Thanks

jkim5453 ,

It is highly doubtful that the DVI will start functioning again all on its own :( . It seems that once it fails it stays that way . This is a somewhat common issue with many displays , I have heard of it happening on just about every PJ , RPTV , LCD Flat Panel , Plasma , etc.

---------- Jason

Yeah - I'm not holding my breath. It was frustrating - back when it just stopped working, and I let it get to me a bit for a couple of hours - because my computer thought the connection was fine, and my STB thought the connection was fine. Just no picture. I permanently loaned by M1-DVI cable to my coworker, and it's been working fine for his 4805.

joe

Ooops sorry for leaving that out , by newer I mean the 6xxx and 7xxx series (nvidia video cards) ;) .

--------- Jason

You didn't cause the headache..... I think I tried it back when Louis reported some success. Eventually I'll prolly hand the 5700 down to this PC and put a 6xxx in the HTPC, but those 3 little pixels per side won't cause me any sleep loss. The display still looks DaBallz. :D

While you're here Jason? What do YOU make of the quality difference with your discerning eye? How much is the extra pixels worth?

-W

Good news for all of you firmware junkies, this was posted yesterday by Bob Williams (official Infocus engineer) in the IN76 thread :

Originally Posted by APranger
By the way, do you think that the firmware update for the 4805 will ever see the light of day?

Yes I do. It's in validation right now and I expect it to be available soon. It's frustrating for everyone but I think the end of this is near.

Wow...

I was thinking how much more better it can be with 1:1 pix map than 480i.

You have to see it to believe it. I did it today and let me confess, no going back. Ofcourse I have to wait for a little while till I get the dedicated theater room.

Thank you all those who helped me understand (the now simple) HTPC pleasure..

The hunt now begins for a nice sound card....

Ahhhhh, another true believer! Dare I say, a new desciple! Congratulations.
Welcome to small but (semi) elite flock of truely enlightened theater operators. The sky is now the limit as to what you can do with your home theater. Somehow Shark Tale got by me, until tonight. I got the "wow factor" again, it never quite stops.

I used an SB Audigy in my final setup - but there's good cards out there with digital out for cheaper than the SB. I'm sure the gallery will soon point them all out. :p

-W

aaranddeeman , post your HTPC specs

You didn't cause the headache..... I think I tried it back when Louis reported some success. Eventually I'll prolly hand the 5700 down to this PC and put a 6xxx in the HTPC, but those 3 little pixels per side won't cause me any sleep loss. The display still looks DaBallz. :D

While you're here Jason? What do YOU make of the quality difference with your discerning eye? How much is the extra pixels worth?

-W


It's like the difference between watching HD(854) and SD(848) !






--- j/k , had to toss that one out there for members of the Geno OCD club :D .

---- Actually there is no real difference other than the extra pixels ;) .

--------------- Jason

but those 3 little pixels per side -- How much is the extra pixels worth?
another answer would be...about 25 square inches on a 80x45 screen

another answer would be...about 25 square inches on a 80x45 screen

Bear in mind that's 25 inches out of 3600.

Do your inner lenses have dust on them?

While going through my recent fiasco of cleaning the lense I noticed a significant amount of dust (about 50 pieces visible to the naked eye) on each surface of the lenses... do I just have an abnormally dirty environment or is this normal?

Has anyone had experience asking infocus to do a cleaning under warranty simply because its' dirty or does it have to actually not function?

I know this has been discussed earlier in this forum but I would like to touch on it again. I have a 4805 that started displaying a yellow line down the right side of the screen. Recently this grew to a yellow line followed by a darkened right edge. I did all the recommended cleaning discussed earlier to no avail (although the picture looks nicer now).

The unit is no longer under warranty so I’ll be diving into it to try to figure out the problem (I purchased it refurbished from InFocus). I read the post about the “light tube?” that can collapse and cause this issue and will be digging for that particular piece to see what I can figure out. This brings me to my question… how the heck do I get the whole case apart??? I removed the screws but I can’t get it open and I really am trying to avoid forcing it to much. :(

Joe

I can see dust from the inner lense. Some of this dust is either on the lens or the DMD itself. I wouldn't worry about them unless you can see them on your screen.

The hunt now begins for a nice sound card....

The hunt now begins for a nice sound card....[/QUOTE]

A simple SB 5.1 should do just fine. Sure to be had for $20. At least that is what I use and have had no issues.

My hunt is on now for a CPU. I have ran some tests and I am finding the Intel P4 setup is performing better then the AMD 64 setup. ffdshow can now be used with some aggressive settings.

This is only in the HTPC aspect! The AMD64 still kicks when it comes to gaming.

HI

I have these spots of light dotted around the screen image on my 4805. I see them on my white wall which I use as a screen. Theres one long line of light over the top but he rest are these random blobs.
What is this and how do i get rid of this?

Also where can I take my 4805 to get cleaned for any dust blobs or color wheel dirt? I'm too scared and accident-prone to attempt the cleaning myself.

Thirdly, theres a lot of white dust that settles on my lens. It makes the lens look foggy and I wonder if thats not hazing the picture a bit both in clarity and color scheme. The color looks hazy greeny, yellow, orangey lately. The colors seem very thin and not like "real" color. Theyre bright and punchy but not deep and rich; kind of like "technicolor" effect.

I have high carpet and even when I wipe the lens with lens cleaner and cloth, the white dust covers it up again within minutes of use. Any solution to this?

Fourthly, when I look at the screen door, what should I be looking for to get the sharpest high resolution-ish image? The screen door gets thicker and darker or thinner and lighter when I twist it the focus ring evers so slightly in opposite directions. I assumed the thicker darker screen door meant lack of fine focus so Ive been going for as thin as I could go with the screen door lines. Also at times the screen door is shaking, stirring. Whats causing this?

WRT the upcoming firmware update, would it benefit me to download this? I have had my 4805 for almost 18 months with no real issues with the original firmware, running SD cable/DVD through component, planning on tonight moving up to digital cable w/HD, also through component.
I am of the mindset, if it ain't broke, don't fix it...but didn't know if moving to HD content would "expose" some of the fixes done with the updates.
Thanks.

I know this has been discussed earlier in this forum but I would like to touch on it again. I have a 4805 that started displaying a yellow line down the right side of the screen. Recently this grew to a yellow line followed by a darkened right edge. I did all the recommended cleaning discussed earlier to no avail (although the picture looks nicer now).

The unit is no longer under warranty so I’ll be diving into it to try to figure out the problem (I purchased it refurbished from InFocus). I read the post about the “light tube?” that can collapse and cause this issue and will be digging for that particular piece to see what I can figure out. This brings me to my question… how the heck do I get the whole case apart??? I removed the screws but I can’t get it open and I really am trying to avoid forcing it to much. :(

Joe

I'm the other person, or at least one of them, with this phenomenon. Mine is in under warranty service, so I'll post back here whatever I can find out about it...

Cheers,
Samplehead

WRT the upcoming firmware update, would it benefit me to download this? I have had my 4805 for almost 18 months with no real issues with the original firmware, running SD cable/DVD through component, planning on tonight moving up to digital cable w/HD, also through component.
I am of the mindset, if it ain't broke, don't fix it...but didn't know if moving to HD content would "expose" some of the fixes done with the updates.
Thanks.

The problem with the original firmware was that going from HD resolutions and 480i (and vice verse) caused the picture to be distorted, you would have to press the "auto-image" button in order to fix this. Depending on how you have your cable box set up, if you have it automatically switch between 480i and HD res then you will get the image distortion. Of course, you can set your cable box to always upconvert regular tv to HD res so that the switching would never occur, but this would mean the box is upconverting sdtv instead of the 4805's faroudja. Of course, you will find out soon enough if it bothers you or how you will want to deal with it.

SUPERBOWL

WHo here is having a superbowl party using thier 4805 as a display? I'm trying to cram about 15 people into my smallish apartment. Word got out that I had a 106 inch HD screen and everyone started inviting themselves. It should be GREAT

GO HAWKS

HTPC peeps,

Hows the sound compare to a regular setup? I'm really picky about audio. More so than video if thats possible :D

HTPC peeps,

Hows the sound compare to a regular setup? I'm really picky about audio. More so than video if thats possible :DSince you generally use a digital connection to a receiver the sound is just the same as a regular setup.

The sound is the same if you are sending an undecoded signal out to your reciever via spdif.

It's like the difference between watching HD(854) and SD(848) !
--- j/k , had to toss that one out there for members of the Geno OCD club :D .

---- Actually there is no real difference other than the extra pixels ;) .

--------------- Jason

Heh... thanks. Seems I won't run right out and snarf up a new card then.

As for the Geno OCD club, they have a value. It's people like that, that tweak to the Nth degree, that provide a baseline for the rest of us to decide how far we wanna go to get what results. the knowledge base is worth listening to them blather on about the 1/10 of 1% improvement if you just do this.....

-W

Ahhhhh, another true believer! Dare I say, a new desciple! Congratulations.
Welcome to small but (semi) elite flock of truely enlightened theater operators. The sky is now the limit as to what you can do with your home theater. Somehow Shark Tale got by me, until tonight. I got the "wow factor" again, it never quite stops.

I used an SB Audigy in my final setup - but there's good cards out there with digital out for cheaper than the SB. I'm sure the gallery will soon point them all out. :p

-W

Clams,

I agree (as I mentioned). It's hard for me to wait till I complete(?) my obsession.

BTW, there are some chepo sound cards I see those have optical SPDIF. Like Turtle beach (or something like that). Two questions on those
1. Are these of good quality?
2. Can optical SPDIF from the card be directly connected to Receiver's optical IN, and it will pass thru all DTS/DD formats?

Thanks,

aaranddeeman , post your HTPC specs

mprover,

Here's it..

Hardware :
HP KAYAK XA (Till yesterday it was lying at one corner ;dejected)
CPU Pentium-III 500 MHz
RAM 512 MB (PC100/133)
Video Card ATI Radeon 7000 32 MB
DVD-ROM (Yet to be purchased)
Sound Card (Looking for one)

Software :Powerstrip 3.63 for custom resolution
Power strip timimgs :
848x480=848,24,88,96,480,1,3,13,25167,2304

Power DVD (Player)

Clams,

I agree (as I mentioned). It's hard for me to wait till I complete(?) my obsession.

BTW, there are some chepo sound cards I see those have optical SPDIF. Like Turtle beach (or something like that). Two questions on those
1. Are these of good quality?
2. Can optical SPDIF from the card be directly connected to Receiver's optical IN, and it will pass thru all DTS/DD formats?

Thanks,

A few peeps here have recommended the Turtle Beach units before. I personally use Creative, but I know it's overkill. As for number 2 - I think yes, but let someone else answer this.

I saw your HTPC specs - I thought mine was old. :D That said, if it has 512 in it you could eventually upgrade to TT and use the bundled post processor OK. Glad to see the project is going OK. I'd reccomend getting a DVD ROM and a burner. In time they pay for themselves.

-W

A few peeps here have recommended the Turtle Beach units before. I personally use Creative, but I know it's overkill. As for number 2 - I think yes, but let someone else answer this.

I saw your HTPC specs - I thought mine was old. :D That said, if it has 512 in it you could eventually upgrade to TT and use the bundled post processor OK. Glad to see the project is going OK. I'd reccomend getting a DVD ROM and a burner. In time they pay for themselves.

-W

The memory of 512MB is I plan to install in the box finally. While I did the test last night, it only had 128MB. As I said, the box was almost out of the door for a recycle or donation, hence all the bells and whistels (??) were removed. I installed them back and it gets a new life.

You don't know how I appreciate your hint of using the old box.

I had one another question, why is that using 848x480 is better over 856 x480?

Any one used following sound card for HTPC. What' the experience?

C-Media CMI8768 PCI 8-Channel Sound Card

I am sending my unit back to infocus for warranty work. I have the original box. Can I just send it in the original box or would they require extra packing? I don't want them to accuse me of inadequately packing the unit and voiding the warranty.

It's going back for a misaligned fold mirror which is causing a yellowish shadow in the upper left hand corner. It sure seems like a lot of units are being sent back.

SUPERBOWL

WHo here is having a superbowl party using thier 4805 as a display? I'm trying to cram about 15 people into my smallish apartment. Word got out that I had a 106 inch HD screen and everyone started inviting themselves. It should be GREAT

GO HAWKS

I'll bite. I'm hosting a party.

GO STEELERS!

Clams,

I agree (as I mentioned). It's hard for me to wait till I complete(?) my obsession.

BTW, there are some chepo sound cards I see those have optical SPDIF. Like Turtle beach (or something like that). Two questions on those
1. Are these of good quality?
2. Can optical SPDIF from the card be directly connected to Receiver's optical IN, and it will pass thru all DTS/DD formats?

Thanks,

I connect my optical SPDIF directly to my receiver. You need a small mono 1/8 to RCA adapter. Works great so far. DTS and DD are all detected. I have read that some receivers do not like this kind of connectivity because the sound card outputs something in the range of 5V which is a tad high.

I connect my optical SPDIF directly to my receiver. You need a small mono 1/8 to RCA adapter. Works great so far. DTS and DD are all detected. I have read that some receivers do not like this kind of connectivity because the sound card outputs something in the range of 5V which is a tad high.

So just to clarify what I understood.

1. Optical SPDIF can be directly connected to Optical IN of Receiver.
2. LineOut should be connected to co-axial digital IN of receiver via the 1/8 mono to RCA adapter.

Just for my information, what receiver do you have (to which you have connected the SPDIF optical directly)?

Heh... thanks. Seems I won't run right out and snarf up a new card then.

As for the Geno OCD club, they have a value. It's people like that, that tweak to the Nth degree, that provide a baseline for the rest of us to decide how far we wanna go to get what results. the knowledge base is worth listening to them blather on about the 1/10 of 1% improvement if you just do this.....

-W

While playing with powerstrip, I tried to get 854x480, which I could succeed to lock on my card (ATI 7000). Not sure though if it will work with actual PJ or not.

For everyones benefit, here are the timimgs.

PowerStrip timing parameters:
854x480=854,7,83,90,480,1,3,10,24518,7

Generic timing details for 854x480:
HFP=7 HSW=83 HBP=90 kHz=24 VFP=1 VSW=3 VBP=10 Hz=48

VESA detailed timing details:
PClk=24518.00 H.Active=854 H.Blank=180 H.Offset=-9 HSW=83 V.Active=480 V.Blank=14 V.Offset=1 VSW=3

Linux modeline parameters:
"854x480" 24.518 854 861 944 1034 480 481 484 494 -hsync -vsync

A couple quick questions for all you Oppo users out there:

I did some searching and I saw some older posts that said the Oppo does not fill the entire 16:9 panel on the 4805 (via DVI), even though it's not supposed to pixel crop. On some other PJs that doesn't seem to be a problem. With the last Oppo firmware release, is that still the current situation? I could find nothing to indicate otherwise while searching.

Also, if you guys are using the newer 4805 firmware, are you seeing the flashing bug with the Oppo? This bug seems to be source dependant, and if I get the Oppo I need to upgrade my firmware from v1.02 so I can use the letterbox functionality over DVI for my anamorphic lens. Last time I did that the bug drove me nuts and I had to revert. It sounds like the new 4805 firmware to fix this is almost set for release however, so I guess I could always just wait a little.

Thanks in advance. :)

The underscan on the Oppo is still there. I'm using 1.13 firmware and I never see the flicker over DVI. In fact, it's been a long time since I've noticed the flicker over component.

The memory of 512MB is I plan to install in the box finally. While I did the test last night, it only had 128MB. As I said, the box was almost out of the door for a recycle or donation, hence all the bells and whistels (??) were removed. I installed them back and it gets a new life.

You don't know how I appreciate your hint of using the old box.

I had one another question, why is that using 848x480 is better over 856 x480?

Ya, the old box option is good if cash is tight or better used elsewhere in the project. The only downside to using an old box is no TT into FFDShow, but to be honest the picture is already the balls without post-processing anything at all.

Another good use for an old box is to use it as a network WIFI MP-3 streaming server with digital jukebox software, I've got one with about 20 gig of music on it. Another good use for an old box is to use it to run a "smart-house" or at least a security system using web-cams etc. Last time I tried to donate an old box to a school, it was almost refused for being too out of date! It's easier to reformat them, lay on a fresh copy of Windows and give them a little job to do to keep them busy. Having a home WIFI makes it easy to make sure all the old boxes stay in line and do what they are supposed to be doing. The downside is that there are days I feel like I'm running an IT department insead of an outboard shop.

I'm not sure exactly why no 856x480 - but I'd bet that it's got something to do with the fact that the PJ can deal with *less* than 848x480 over DVI (ie not show them), but it doesn't know what to do with any *extra* pixlels - it can't 1-1 map more than it can display. I know all the experts here went with 848x480 and it's that's good enough for me.

-W

Thanks Ja Phule. I'm going thru one of my periodic "Gee-I'm-bored-with-my-perfectly-fine-setup-and-I-NEED-to-change-something" phases and I'm seriously considering the Oppo.

I was little bummed about the pixel cropping/underscan issue however. My current player does that and it's always bugged me a little. Oh well, I guess it's no biggie since I'm used to it already. I really want to switch to DVI (actually HDMI) and an upscaling DVD player before I upgrade from the 4805.

Yeah, I just want to note, the Oppo isn't cropping any of the actual DVD picture, just not filling the screen completely. It is annoying though, I either use the zoom or even overscan. We should probably be watching the picture, not the black borders anyway. :)

Yeah, I just want to note, the Oppo isn't cropping any of the actual DVD picture, just not filling the screen completely.
Are you just seeing borders on the sides, or top/bottom as well? If top/bottom, that would be a cause for concern IMO, since there should be no vertical scaling with DVD (assuming Oppo outputting 480p). If you're getting the full DVD height but w/ less than 480 pixels, than it must be getting scaled, which makes no sense.

Just the sides. I'm guessing the oppo isn't stretching the picture horizontally all the way. Comparing the Oppo to the blank screen, I would say there's about 6 pixels on the left and 10 pixels on the right that's not filled.

Thanks - that makes me feel a little better.

Heh... thanks. Seems I won't run right out and snarf up a new card then.

As for the Geno OCD club, they have a value. It's people like that, that tweak to the Nth degree, that provide a baseline for the rest of us to decide how far we wanna go to get what results. the knowledge base is worth listening to them blather on about the 1/10 of 1% improvement if you just do this.....

-W

Hehe , yeah I just tease Geno/Brian even though I have no right ( because I am the biggest tweak freak that the 4805 has ever encountered , and even worse , I am anal about it too ) :D .

--- That being said ... I am moving on (or back , as it were) to CRT projection this weekend ( 1440x960p here I come ;) ) . I might keep the 4805 around for a while or I might not , still undecided and I have yet to set-up the CRT unit that I will be picking up on Saturday . I guess it could be fun to have a 4805 on the ceiling and big ole' CRT on the floor , could save some hours on the CRT tubes at least (for less critical viewing/gaming) .

--- I hope I do not get kicked out of the official 4805 club , this group has been about the most fun that I have had on AVS over the past 5 years :) .

- Best Wishes All ,
------ Jason

DGP,
Hey, man, you're always welcome here. We'll just be a little more jealous, that's all!

The problem with the original firmware was that going from HD resolutions and 480i (and vice verse) caused the picture to be distorted, you would have to press the "auto-image" button in order to fix this. Depending on how you have your cable box set up, if you have it automatically switch between 480i and HD res then you will get the image distortion. Of course, you can set your cable box to always upconvert regular tv to HD res so that the switching would never occur, but this would mean the box is upconverting sdtv instead of the 4805's faroudja. Of course, you will find out soon enough if it bothers you or how you will want to deal with it.

Thanks JP, that helps clarify it for me. I'll be setting up the Moto 6412 tonight and see how it goes.

--- I hope I do not get kicked out of the official 4805 club , this group has been about the most fun that I have had on AVS over the past 5 years :) .

- Best Wishes All ,
------ Jason
Congrats Jason! We'll want to see some pictures of course when you're all set-up. :) Dan

Do you have a computer that can output DVI? I would highly recommend using that as your DVD player.

A pixel matched picture is much sharper than an Oppo (I have one two, playing at 480p - which is the sharpest the Oppo can get on the 4805).

I have my Oppo stored for a future HD TV/Projector, because that is where the Oppo excels - upconversion. There is really no use in upconverting to 720p/1080i, only to have the 4805 scale it back to 480p.

Just my experience.

I am sorry for disturbing this classy conversation, but is there any new info on 'burnmarks on edges of screen' issue ? Mine is leftmost top corner, brownish burnmark-alike edge stripe.

Can it be fixed by opening/cleaning ???

HELP !
I dont want to risk my 4805 giving it away to Russian srvice centre.

Thanx

Do you have a computer that can output DVI? I would highly recommend using that as your DVD player.

A pixel matched picture is much sharper than an Oppo (I have one two, playing at 480p - which is the sharpest the Oppo can get on the 4805).

I have my Oppo stored for a future HD TV/Projector, because that is where the Oppo excels - upconversion. There is really no use in upconverting to 720p/1080i, only to have the 4805 scale it back to 480p.

Just my experience.
Hi A-Newbie, unfortunately I don't have a PC that can output DVI. I could get a card, but unless I'm just doing a temporary setup, trying to get a cable from where my PC is to where the projector is would be a nightmare.

Although I would love to see what a 1:1 480p pixel mapped image looks like just for curiousity, it wouldn't be a permanent option for most of my viewing anyway since I use a Panamorph and need the 4805 to scale 2.35:1 content to the full height of the 16:9 panel. I would think that would destroy the benefits of the pixel mapping. It would be interesting to compare the image of the Panamorph (using the full 480 pixels for 2.35:1 content) with a 1:1 pixel mapped 2.35:1 image (no lens, 363 vert pixels used) from 2x width back.

I do plan on upgrading to 720p this summer, so I'm looking at the Oppo with that in mind. :)

Ive got this shimmering/buzzing noise coming from my 4805 lately. Sometimes it sound like a revving engine or a mini chainsaw is inside there and then goes away. ANyone know what this is?

I've got about 560 hours in. Do I need a new lamp?

Also heres a dumb question but, I tabletop my projector instead of ceiling mounting and have the habit of turning the unit off using the power switch on the side of it(after powering down of course). Should I just be leaving this switch on all the time? Im assuming thats what you ceiling mounters do since you cant reach up there to your projectors easily. Does this do anything to lamp life or the fan or heating or dust or anything? Moreover, is it ideal for the projector to have the power switch on continually or to shut it off after each use?

any input would be appreciated, thanks.

I am sorry for disturbing this classy conversation, but is there any new info on 'burnmarks on edges of screen' issue ? Mine is leftmost top corner, brownish burnmark-alike edge stripe.

Can it be fixed by opening/cleaning ???

HELP !
I dont want to risk my 4805 giving it away to Russian srvice centre.

Thanx


There is a “light tube” that is so poorly built that it collapses on its own accord and causes the edges of your picture to become distorted, yellowed and shaded. The “tube” is 4 slivers of plastic mirror glued together to form a square oblong channel for light to pass through. This terribly manufactured part is right behind the color wheel. It’s a pain to get to and even if you do get to it there’s no guarantee you can correct it. In my case I removed the collapsed pieces and tried gluing them back together (which was tough with my big fingers) and reassembled everything only to find I still had the shadow but now it was slightly worse.

The bottom line is that this plastic tube is a piece of crap and looks like it was originally glued by kindergarteners and when I got done with it it looked like it was assembled by chimpanzees. This is obviously a defective design and should have been made known to us and should be something the manufacturer would fix free of charge (like when there’s a recall in the auto industry).

I’m not a rich guy but I believe for my money I deserved the same pleasures as anyone else who buys such a product. I shouldn’t be expected to throw more money into what should have been a finely designed device. If a bulb blew, fine, that’s wear and tear, but a mirror falling about??? C’mon, that’s ridiculous.

I'll send you some pictures of the mirror if you like.

Ive got this shimmering/buzzing noise coming from my 4805 lately. Sometimes it sound like a revving engine or a mini chainsaw is inside there and then goes away. ANyone know what this is?

I've got about 560 hours in. Do I need a new lamp?

Also heres a dumb question but, I tabletop my projector instead of ceiling mounting and have the habit of turning the unit off using the power switch on the side of it(after powering down of course). Should I just be leaving this switch on all the time? Im assuming thats what you ceiling mounters do since you cant reach up there to your projectors easily. Does this do anything to lamp life or the fan or heating or dust or anything? Moreover, is it ideal for the projector to have the power switch on continually or to shut it off after each use?

any input would be appreciated, thanks.

The grind is coming from the color wheel. I get it too but it usually goes away after a minute. If you want to get rid of it, you'll probably need to send it to Infocus for repair.

I'd recommend powering off the switch as you were already doing. Leaving it on will have the fan running still, pulling in more dust, meaning you'd have to clean the filter more often. If the power in your house should go off and back on, it would turn the 4805 back on also.

Ive got this shimmering/buzzing noise coming from my 4805 lately. Sometimes it sound like a revving engine or a mini chainsaw is inside there and then goes away. ANyone know what this is?

I've got about 560 hours in. Do I need a new lamp?

Also heres a dumb question but, I tabletop my projector instead of ceiling mounting and have the habit of turning the unit off using the power switch on the side of it(after powering down of course). Should I just be leaving this switch on all the time? Im assuming thats what you ceiling mounters do since you cant reach up there to your projectors easily. Does this do anything to lamp life or the fan or heating or dust or anything? Moreover, is it ideal for the projector to have the power switch on continually or to shut it off after each use?

any input would be appreciated, thanks.


BLAH!.. the buzz sound. mine has 2 issues. the buzz is more than likely coming from the color wheel. i had/have that same problem. mine is still under warenty and it was sent into infocus. unfortunatly, they fixed 1 issue (im assuming) and not the other. mine turns on for about 30 mins and shuts off showing 3 blinking lights.. sometimes 4 indicating fan failure.

the unit isnt on long enough to see if the buzz sound still happens which usually doesnt start till about 1 hour later.

im not happy with my unit/infocus now.. started looking into getting a different dlp unit by somebody else since the big game is tomorrow :mad:

If you can so i at least will have something to think about....

This is real pity...
Can i get this part separately ?

i dont believe so.
but i could be wrong

thanks Japhule
I'll keep the shutdowns manual.
I certainly dont want more dust coming in than already is. I see alot of white dust on the lens. Should I be concerned about this hazing or foggying the picture or dulling colors? Everytime I wipe it off it just accumulates again after a few minutes while its in use. I use air cleaners in my room but I have high carpet. Wondering if you have white dust on there too and its simply a non issue as far as viewing is concerned.

Ive also read the posts on color wheel cleaning and dust blob removing. I would never risk doing it myself being the klutz I am. Is there any reliable place I can go to have this cleaning done if I need it in the future?

One other thing I notice more are these blobs of light scattered around the 16:9 viewing area (I project unto a white wall). There more or less ovular shaped blobs one of them a horizontal streak above the screen, and are most visible when the picture is a dark or completely blackout scene. They dont bother me that much but Im just curious as to what they are. I dont think they are dust blobs.

Hehe , yeah I just tease Geno/Brian even though I have no right ( because I am the biggest tweak freak that the 4805 has ever encountered , and even worse , I am anal about it too ) :D .

--- That being said ... I am moving on (or back , as it were) to CRT projection this weekend ( 1440x960p here I come ;) ) . I might keep the 4805 around for a while or I might not , still undecided and I have yet to set-up the CRT unit that I will be picking up on Saturday . I guess it could be fun to have a 4805 on the ceiling and big ole' CRT on the floor , could save some hours on the CRT tubes at least (for less critical viewing/gaming) .

--- I hope I do not get kicked out of the official 4805 club , this group has been about the most fun that I have had on AVS over the past 5 years :) .

- Best Wishes All ,
------ Jason

Naw set the little guy on top of the big guy to use since it takes a whole movie to warm up! :D I sure hope you have a mount better than that speaker hanger for this one!

Hope everybody watches the SeaHawks bowl over that other team. Just got a notice from Infocus they will be pimping Big Play in more general mags and not just the geek mags anymore. THey are going for the big game crowd in a big way.

The ad says "My Projector is my Skybox" and has people up on the roof in camp chairs with coolers of cold ones watching Hawks mangle some poor sap - on a huge outdoor PVC screen!

"Bone-crunching tackles in the secondary.
Head-rattling sacks in the backfield. With largerthan-
life images, InFocus projectors put all the
smash-mouth action right in your face. Bright,
rich colors. Big, bold images. Who needs a replay
booth when you see the game like this? It’s a
gridiron smackdown like no other. And you’ve got
the hottest seat in town."

I am sorry for disturbing this classy conversation, but is there any new info on 'burnmarks on edges of screen' issue ? Mine is leftmost top corner, brownish burnmark-alike edge stripe.

Can it be fixed by opening/cleaning ???

HELP !
I dont want to risk my 4805 giving it away to Russian srvice centre.

Thanx

Actually that would be a Kentucky service center.....

You run greater risk by violating your warranty yourself.

You paid for the warranty - use it. Infocus has great service.

Why Kentucky mate ?

We have authorized Infocus service in Moscow, it's just everything in Russia is done...i think you can imagine.

So they will ship it to Kentucky ? Or what ? If it involves waiting more than 2 days it aint worth it for me... It'll be just easier to get a loan at the bank and buy some another Darkchip2T/faroudja Pj unit....
I can't imagine now watching something on usual tv - call me crazy but it's like that.

Anyway i already emailed Moscow service asking to preorder this 'light transition tube', no reply yet.

Thanx all

Hey,

So I sent in my X1 that was failing and got a refurb 4805. They sent only the projector and nothing else. Projector seems to be working fine, but I am unable to control it with the X1 remote or my universal remote. I emailed tech support and they're going to send out a 4805 remote, but said that the X1 remote should work. Now I'm thinking that that perhaps this refurb projector has issues. Anybody able to use their X1 remote with success on their 4805?

Although I would love to see what a 1:1 480p pixel mapped image looks like just for curiousity, it wouldn't be a permanent option for most of my viewing anyway since I use a Panamorph and need the 4805 to scale 2.35:1 content to the full height of the 16:9 panel. I would think that would destroy the benefits of the pixel mapping. It would be interesting to compare the image of the Panamorph (using the full 480 pixels for 2.35:1 content) with a 1:1 pixel mapped 2.35:1 image (no lens, 363 vert pixels used) from 2x width back.

I do plan on upgrading to 720p this summer, so I'm looking at the Oppo with that in mind. :)

My new Momitsu 880DX player has x-y scaling and 1:1 pixel mapping. image is stretched before output is set (as far as I can tell). I'm then using a Panamorph UH-50 for Constant Height, and PQ is great. Makes the Momitsu a perfect match for 4805 and Constant Height, IMO.
...I did replace the loader in the Momitsu, tho (pretty easy).

TC

TC

Naw set the little guy on top of the big guy to use since it takes a whole movie to warm up! :D I sure hope you have a mount better than that speaker hanger for this one!


Oh no way I am mounting the CRT on the ceiling in my apartment , even if I could I would not do it . Actually this level of CRT does not require any more warm up time than that of the 4805 for optimal image ;) (about 20-30 minutes) . My DIY 4805 mount is actually designed for larger security cameras so it holds the weight of the 4805 without issue , the problem is the metal plate that I used along with it is too thin and has a spring effect if somebody upstairs stomps around directly above it - lol .


--------- Jason

Why Kentucky mate ?

We have authorized Infocus service in Moscow, it's just everything in Russia is done...i think you can imagine.

So they will ship it to Kentucky ? Or what ? If it involves waiting more than 2 days it aint worth it for me... It'll be just easier to get a loan at the bank and buy some another Darkchip2T/faroudja Pj unit....
I can't imagine now watching something on usual tv - call me crazy but it's like that.

Anyway i already emailed Moscow service asking to preorder this 'light transition tube', no reply yet.

Thanx all


Sorry that was for USA only - your profile does not say your location. You cannot buy service parts unless you are an authorized service center. I know nothing about Moscow service - but I was born in Moscow (Idaho!)

My point was you paid for the warranty so use it - otherwise you will pay for it with a broken projector. Either way you have to wait for something that works.

My new Momitsu 880DX player has x-y scaling and 1:1 pixel mapping. image is stretched before output is set (as far as I can tell). I'm then using a Panamorph UH-50 for Constant Height, and PQ is great. Makes the Momitsu a perfect match for 4805 and Constant Height, IMO.
...I did replace the loader in the Momitsu, tho (pretty easy).

tcreech - interesting setup. Having a player that can do custom scaling is definitely cool and it would allow me to use my Panamorph (p752) with non-anamorphic content (not that I watch a lot of that). I was just a casual observer of the DVD player threads before, but I'm starting to dig in a little. That player was on my list of ones to check out.

After you replaced the loader have you had any issues with the Momitsu such as lockups? That's just one thing I can't deal with. I had an old Panny that would lock up incessantly and it just drove me nuts.

Jason - congrats on the new rig!

Just curious - what did you get for a CRT? And more importantly, how did you get your wife to go along with the idea of a 200 pound box in the middle of your apartment!? I know she's into HT and all, but that's GOT to be a WAF record! :D

Jason - congrats on the new rig!

Just curious - what did you get for a CRT? And more importantly, how did you get your wife to go along with the idea of a 200 pound box in the middle of your apartment!? I know she's into HT and all, but that's GOT to be a WAF record! :D


Thanks Jeff ;) ,

--- Actually we have owned 2 CRT projectors before this one and even though the last one was small for a CRT (only 70 lbs.) she is more excited about this new one than I am (she loves the image from CRT projectors) . The new one is about 150 lbs. and has a sweet spot of 1440x960p , it can do 1080p as well even though it cannot fully resolve it . This is a complicated CRT projector and will require hours of set-up/calibration time (nothing like the ease of a digital) but in the end it will be worth it (at least after I tame the noise with some fan mods - hehe) . I will not have to run my heaters anymore either (lol) , lucky for me too since this CRT pulls over 700 watts of juice . I still like the 4805 and it will be difficult to see it go (if I do) but I am certain that I will get a 720p/1080p digital down the road eventually .

---- Best Wishes ,
-------- Jason

Thanks Jeff ;) ,

--- Actually we have owned 2 CRT projectors before this one and even though the last one was small for a CRT (only 70 lbs.) she is more excited about this new one than I am (she loves the image from CRT projectors) . The new one is about 150 lbs. and has a sweet spot of 1440x960p , it can do 1080p as well even though it cannot fully resolve it . This is a complicated CRT projector and will require hours of set-up/calibration time (nothing like the ease of a digital) but in the end it will be worth it (at least after I tame the noise with some fan mods - hehe) . I will not have to run my heaters anymore either (lol) , lucky for me too since this CRT pulls over 700 watts of juice . I still like the 4805 and it will be difficult to see it go (if I do) but I am certain that I will get a 720p/1080p digital down the road eventually .

---- Best Wishes ,
-------- Jason

I'll give you less than 2 years time. :)

okay Ive been trying to solve once and for all the question of custom DVI settings for Bravo D2 for the 4805.

I know this has been cycled through many times but I cant seem to find the definitive answer.

Heres what a post by Wendell said:

[Code:
BRAVO D1 854x480@48Hz DVI Custom Settings:

Horizontal Freq 23688 Vertical Freq 4795
Video Width 0854 Video Height 0480
HSyncTotal 1030 PreHSync 0008
HsyncActive 0080 PostHSync 0088
VSyncTotal 0494 PreVSync 0001
VSyncActive 0003 PostVSync 0010
HSyncPolarity 0000 VSyncPolarity 0000

DVI Out = Custom
TV Type = 16:9

SP4805 defaults all the way except:

RGB Gains (3) = 58
RGB Offsets (3) = 28.5
White Peaking = 0
Aspect Ratio = Native]


But then I read a post by Cavu that reads:

[Quote:
Originally Posted by DenM3
What is the optimum resolution output setting for my Bravo D2?

Set the D2 for DVI 852x480 (might be called "DVI Gateway") and 16:9.

Set the SP4805 to "Native" Aspect Ratio and the RGB Gains (3) to 58 and the RGB Offsets (3) to 28.5 - leave all other SP4805 settings at factory default.]


So my question is which is better?
Cavu, why did you suggest the DVI Gateway settting in the Bravo rather than custom DVI? Does the gateway setting give better resolution than the 1:1 mapped custom settings?

Also the RGB gain/offsets I see are 58/28.5 and derived from Bob Williams I assume. But are these settings for film or video setting on the 4805? I could have sworn the BOb settings I read sometime ago was 66/39 or something.

thanks Japhule
I'll keep the shutdowns manual.
I certainly dont want more dust coming in than already is. I see alot of white dust on the lens. Should I be concerned about this hazing or foggying the picture or dulling colors? Everytime I wipe it off it just accumulates again after a few minutes while its in use. I use air cleaners in my room but I have high carpet. Wondering if you have white dust on there too and its simply a non issue as far as viewing is concerned.

Ive also read the posts on color wheel cleaning and dust blob removing. I would never risk doing it myself being the klutz I am. Is there any reliable place I can go to have this cleaning done if I need it in the future?

One other thing I notice more are these blobs of light scattered around the 16:9 viewing area (I project unto a white wall). There more or less ovular shaped blobs one of them a horizontal streak above the screen, and are most visible when the picture is a dark or completely blackout scene. They dont bother me that much but Im just curious as to what they are. I dont think they are dust blobs.

The dust blobs are just those, dust blobs, see the 4805 faq for instructions how to clean it.

What are you using to clean your lense? I had the same issue after using some cheap lense cleaner, all the camera shops around tell me once you get that haze on there it is very hard to get off, and indeed it is.

I finally bought some epensive lense cleaning solution and some kodak lense paper and went at it, took a lot of tries and even now only half the lense is really clean, but it's the half the picture goes through and I am done messing with it lest I should scratch the lense and then be really mad.

Heres what a post by Wendell said:
BRAVO D1 854x480@48Hz DVI Custom Settings:

Horizontal Freq 23688 Vertical Freq 4795
Video Width 0854 Video Height 0480
HSyncTotal 1030 PreHSync 0008
HsyncActive 0080 PostHSync 0088
VSyncTotal 0494 PreVSync 0001
VSyncActive 0003 PostVSync 0010
HSyncPolarity 0000 VSyncPolarity 0000

DVI Out = Custom
TV Type = 16:9

SP4805 defaults all the way except:

RGB Gains (3) = 58
RGB Offsets (3) = 28.5
White Peaking = 0
Aspect Ratio = NativeThat was actually my post but was consolidated from earlier information posted by CAVU.

The 854x480x48Hz Custom DVI setting is best for film-based DVDs and uses all the pixels on the projector. (It eliminates 3:2 pulldown.)

The 852x480 "Gateway" setting you refer to is a 60Hz preset on the Bravo. It is excellent for video-based DVDs.

Bravos with early firmware did not provide a "Custom" option so this 852 pixel map was the best option, even though it left the outermost pixels black.

I switch between the preset and the custom setting on my D2 depending on the DVD I am playing.

Also the RGB gain/offsets I see are 58/28.5 and derived from Bob Williams I assume. But are these settings for film or video setting on the 4805? I could have sworn the BOb settings I read sometime ago was 66/39 or something.I believe the 66/39 numbers are for a 7205. The 58/28.5 numbers are for the 4805.

tcreech - interesting setup. Having a player that can do custom scaling is definitely cool and it would allow me to use my Panamorph (p752) with non-anamorphic content (not that I watch a lot of that). I was just a casual observer of the DVD player threads before, but I'm starting to dig in a little. That player was on my list of ones to check out.

After you replaced the loader have you had any issues with the Momitsu such as lockups? That's just one thing I can't deal with. I had an old Panny that would lock up incessantly and it just drove me nuts.

No problems yet, but I just replaced the loader last night :)
The Liteon loaders are pretty reliable, I'm told.

TC

I just got Digital HD cable and have a couple questions...

Is there a standard that the 4805 owners use... 720P or 1080i for HDTV?

Since some channels broadcast in different formats do you change your Box for each Channell?

Thanks,
RD

For anyone who ever experiences the yellow line on any of the four sides of your screen, this is the definitive answer to what the problem is. It is, without a doubt, the light tube.

I tried gluing my light tube back together and reinstalling it but since I did not re-glue the tube perfectly I still had the shadow/yellow line on my screen. I decided to take a 2nd crack at re-gluing the tube but couldn’t pull the pieces apart (superglue). Next I decided I needed to make 100% sure I was barking up the right tree so I reassembled the unit WITHOUT the light tube to see what would happen; here’s the results.

My picture was PERFECT, but dimmer. It is a sharp edged 16X9; no yellow or shadows, nothing, just a clean picture. Apparently the only function for the tube is to channel the light from the bulb to the lens AND by doing so it seems to maintain the brightness. Since it served no function insofar as creating a clean, square, tight picture (which I thought it did) and since it is proven that without it the picture is fine, albeit dimmer, it stands to reason that I could make my own tube and it wouldn’t have to necessarily be square or perfect (provided it isn’t interfering with the light path). So I need ideas.

The tube is 3 centimeters in length and 1 centimeter square. I need ideas for what I can use; presently I’m thinking aluminum foil but I’m afraid it might melt.

I hope this helps anyone who has this problem and those unfortunate ones who encounter this problem down the road.

RUSS D,

Some of the ESPN HD content is 4:3 because that is what it was filmed in. For example, ESPN HD Sportscenter is HD but sometimes when they show highlights from the games they are in 4:3 because the game was filmed in standard def.

As far as outputting a resoultion to the 4805 from the cable box goes here is what I do. I find out what resolution the source is filmed in and then output that to my 4805; most shows are filmed in 720p, i think discovery hd may be the exception. Run a google search and you can find all this info quickly.

My reason for doing this is that if you have a source filmed in 720p, upscaled to 1080i , and fed to the 4805 you end up scaling it twice; once at the cable box and again at the 4805. Whereas if you output 720p, and the source was filmed in 720p then only the 4805 is doing the scaling.

While playing with powerstrip, I tried to get 854x480, which I could succeed to lock on my card (ATI 7000). Not sure though if it will work with actual PJ or not.

For everyones benefit, here are the timimgs.

PowerStrip timing parameters:
854x480=854,7,83,90,480,1,3,10,24518,7

Generic timing details for 854x480:
HFP=7 HSW=83 HBP=90 kHz=24 VFP=1 VSW=3 VBP=10 Hz=48

VESA detailed timing details:
PClk=24518.00 H.Active=854 H.Blank=180 H.Offset=-9 HSW=83 V.Active=480 V.Blank=14 V.Offset=1 VSW=3

Linux modeline parameters:
"854x480" 24.518 854 861 944 1034 480 481 484 494 -hsync -vsync

HTPC Gurus,

Are these powerstrip numbers for 854x480 look correct. Or is just a goof...

SensFan,

Please read my PM

Thanks Gushy

My picture was PERFECT, but dimmer. It is a sharp edged 16X9; no yellow or shadows, nothing, just a clean picture. Apparently the only function for the tube is to channel the light from the bulb to the lens AND by doing so it seems to maintain the brightness. Since it served no function insofar as creating a clean, square, tight picture (which I thought it did) and since it is proven that without it the picture is fine, albeit dimmer, it stands to reason that I could make my own tube and it wouldn’t have to necessarily be square or perfect (provided it isn’t interfering with the light path). So I need ideas.

The tube is 3 centimeters in length and 1 centimeter square. I need ideas for what I can use; presently I’m thinking aluminum foil but I’m afraid it might melt.

I hope this helps anyone who has this problem and those unfortunate ones who encounter this problem down the road.


The “tube” is 4 slivers of plastic mirror glued together to form a square oblong channel for light to pass through.

I'm pretty sure that this plastic is manufactured to a certain standard to hold up under high temperatures. You could get your self a glass cutter and a file and use actual pieces of a glass mirror. Does the tube have to be 1 square centimeter or is there enough room so for it to be a little larger ? Larger pieces would probably be easier to work with.

Or you could go down to your local mirror/glass shop and tell them what you're trying to do and they might be able to help "shed some light" on your problem. :)

Or you could order yourself one of them "disco balls" that reflects light around a room and pry some of those mirrors off and use them. You would have plenty left over and could start a side business selling them to other 4805 owners with the same problem. :D