Just bought a new xbox 360 slim with kinect on Friday. Today when I was gone the wife was going to play Dance Central and she dropped the game box on the open tray and now it will no longer close. I've tried wiggling the tray, but can't get it to go back in. It looks like the piece that comes up to keep the disc in place gets in the way. Anyone had any success with something like this. I'm not sure if Best Buy would exchange or not, and really don't want to go a month without it by sending to Microsoft.

I suggest you return it to BB. Just tell them the drive doesn't work, they don't need to know what caused it. Why fiddle around with trying to fix it when returning it and exchanging it for a new one is so much easier.

I know this is probably a stupid question, but I can't find the answer in the manual and 3 of us couldn't figure it out. How do you choose to play 2-player mode or multi player mode? Every time we choose the mode we want, it asks us to sign out player 1 or create avatar, etc. We've tried all the options and nothing works! Can you please tell me what we need to do to play together?

Thank you!

When you say 2-player mode, I assume you mean two people on the same console and that's what you're trying to do, right? Multi-player usually refers to playing online against other players. First off, not all games let you play with two on the same console. So make sure that is available with whatever game you're trying to play. Secondly, once the owner of the console signs in(I'm pretty sure it had to be a Gold account, not Silver), there should be an option to sign in as a Guest for the other player once the other controller is turned on. Once the second player is signed in, his account will be under the owners name plus the number1.

I'm venting!!! My 120GB elite is no longer reading game discs. Damn this is the third 360 to develop a bad DVD-ROM drive.....I do not use my 360 that often 2-4 hrs per week at most, and I install the games that I play frequently on the hard drive. Well, I always buy my 360's at Costco, so it looks like I will get one of the new ones, and swap this sucker out. I think this one only lasted a 1-1.5 yrs. I've had 4 360's since launch, my first died 2.5 years in, from RROD, but the rest were bad DVD-ROM drives, I must be unlucky.

Yesterday I turned on the xbox, and it said open tray even though I had black ops in there.
I tried everything listed on xbox.com but no fix

So I went to the internet and a video showed how the laser is stuck and wasn't moving to read the disc.

Options were to take the xbox apart and clean the harness that lazer moves on, so the lazer will read the disc, but I will never attempt to open my xbox.

other option was to give a few taps on the bottom of the xbox to knock the harness back into place. So I turned it vertical while it was on and gave it a tap, this worked but unfortunately my black ops disc was knocked out of place and was scratched up.

All games work now except black ops, guess I have to buy a new game.
my question is will this be a permanent fix for the open tray error, or should I expect my xbox to get this error again?

Yesterday I turned on the xbox, and it said open tray even though I had black ops in there.
I tried everything listed on xbox.com but no fix

So I went to the internet and a video showed how the laser is stuck and wasn't moving to read the disc.

Options were to take the xbox apart and clean the harness that lazer moves on, so the lazer will read the disc, but I will never attempt to open my xbox.

other option was to give a few taps on the bottom of the xbox to knock the harness back into place. So I turned it vertical while it was on and gave it a tap, this worked but unfortunately my black ops disc was knocked out of place and was scratched up.

All games work now except black ops, guess I have to buy a new game.
my question is will this be a permanent fix for the open tray error, or should I expect my xbox to get this error again?

When you state, "I will never attempt to open my xbox," I don't see many options for you other than to continue smacking the console around, ruining disc after disc. As for your Black Ops, there are places that can resurface discs out there. Most charge between $1 and $3 for the service. Hopefully, the disc wasn't scratched too badly and can be fixed. If the bashing of the console didn't cause the disc to have the deep, circular groove cut into it, resurfacing should work.

When you state, "I will never attempt to open my xbox," I don't see many options for you other than to continue smacking the console around, ruining disc after disc. As for your Black Ops, there are places that can resurface discs out there. Most charge between $1 and $3 for the service. Hopefully, the disc wasn't scratched too badly and can be fixed. If the bashing of the console didn't cause the disc to have the deep, circular groove cut into it, resurfacing should work.

Next time I would take the disc out before smacking it, but you do think its going to be a continuous problem?

My xbox is only 2 years old, unfortunately there is a nice fill circle groove close to the center of the disc, so I don't think its repair-able

Next time I would take the disc out before smacking it, but you do think its going to be a continuous problem?

My xbox is only 2 years old, unfortunately there is a nice fill circle groove close to the center of the disc, so I don't think its repair-able

Could continue, might not. Without actually opening up the console and seeing what the issue really is, it's incredibly difficult to say. It could be the laser rails are filthy and/or jammed, could be the drive magnet has detached, could be the laser guides are broken, could be laser itself going out.

I've seen all these things hundreds of times each. None of them are either difficult or expensive for you to repair yourself. I suppose that given your refusal to open up the console, the only thing you can do is wait and see. At least you learned to take the disc out next time. Good luck!

Could continue, might not. Without actually opening up the console and seeing what the issue really is, it's incredibly difficult to say. It could be the laser rails are filthy and/or jammed, could be the drive magnet has detached, could be the laser guides are broken, could be laser itself going out.

I've seen all these things hundreds of times each. None of them are either difficult or expensive for you to repair yourself. I suppose that given your refusal to open up the console, the only thing you can do is wait and see. At least you learned to take the disc out next time. Good luck!

haha thanks, I am nervous to mess with the inside, because I recently did this with a camera, and now the camera is in the garbage.

I am also considering installing the game to my hard drive, since I only play one game

Update: I returned mine to Costco, got my money back and turned around and bought a new 256Gb model ( had an elite 120Gb ). Boy, the new ones are pretty nice! Extremely quiet!

Update: I returned mine to Costco, got my money back and turned around and bought a new 256Gb model ( had an elite 120Gb ). Boy, the new ones are pretty nice! Extremely quiet!

How old was your xbox that you were able to return it to costco?

How old was your xbox that you were able to return it to xbox?

Costco, doesn't have a time limit for returns on the Xbox ( customer satisfaction is gauranteed ). In this case, my elite was approx. 13 month old. I returned my launch system, at Costco, after two and half years due to RROD.

Costco, doesn't have a time limit for returns on the Xbox ( customer satisfaction is gauranteed ). In this case, my elite was approx. 13 month old. I returned my launch system, at Costco, after two and half years due to RROD.

I wish I kept my receipt for my original black ops disc, I just purchased another disc, so I may try to return my scratched one in the new case I purchased today.

I was surprised that my Xbox arcade lasted over 1 yr, but it finally got the RROD and of course the warranty is OVER! Ordering a new one now.

I disconnected a Samsung 32" HDTV, and connected a 40" Samsung HDTV. XBOX had been working fine until I did this. Now it the screen has a green tint and the sound is only working on the left side. What happened?

I disconnected a Samsung 32" HDTV, and connected a 40" Samsung HDTV. XBOX had been working fine until I did this. Now it the screen has a green tint and the sound is only working on the left side. What happened?

HDMI connection or component? Sound through the TV speakers or a receiver?
If it's HDMI carrying both audio and video I would try another cable and see if that fixes your problem.

I found the problem. My ignorant self had plugged the red audio into the red componant, and vice versa. Problem fixed.

I previously had the Xbox360 acting as a media extender. I just switched to a DLink DIR-655 router and when I try to set up the extender I now get a "Cannot Setup Extender", with the suggested help page pointing to a write up of Firewall issues. (I've read all those, and I think I am complying.) Here is the setup now, and some of the symptoms:

* The Xbox360 is on a wired connection to a Dlink DIR-655 router
* I have 2 computers (one XP the other Windows 7 64 bit) on a wired connection to the router.
* The Xbox360 happily talks to Xbox Live.
* My Windows 7 computer can see the xbox on the network when it is running.
* I am running Windows Firewall on the computers. It is set to *not* block connections on my private network, which my home network is. I have explicitly allowed Windows Media Center to pass through, and Media Extenders to pass through however the Windows Firewall is acting a bit weird when I attempt an Extender Setup. I go to the Windows Firewall setup, and I explicitly set it to allow Media Extenders to pass through. I exit, I open up the Firewall settings again, and I see the settings I just made still there. So far, so good. I exit the Firewall setup without making any changes, I go to Windows Media Center, go to Tasks, go to Set Up Extender (after having gotten the 8-digit code from the Xbox), and then it fails with "Cannot Setup Extender". I then go back to the Firewall settings to find that the previous set permissions for Media Extenders being allowed on the Private network have now been wiped out. (The Windows Media Center permissions remain untouched.) So, somehow in the process of attempting to set up the Extender, Windows Media Center seems to be altering my permissions on the Firewall to disallow Media Extenders.

I have tried to set up the extender on both computers to no avail. Any ideas? My knowledge in network speak is very limited. Any help is appreciated.

360 Elite connected via HDMI to Denon AVR 2807, 2807 via HDMI to Samsung PN63C8000. Everything worked fine for 40+ days. A few days ago while playing Black Ops color goes strange - backgrounds look "painted" and resolution is awful. Screen flickers and horizontal lines "flicker" through the picture. I turned the 360 off and back on, and now there is no picture and the audio display on my Denon is flashing like mad. After a few power cycles, the picture returns, but color is still messed up. This continues if I go to the dashboard, watch a Netflix movie, saved video, etc.

Over the next few days, color continues to go strange, but only after the 360 has been on for a few minutes (i.e., it looks fine for 5-10 minutes). Tonight, it happened again and I tried to trouble shoot. I've tried hooking the 360 directly to the TV, a new HDMI cable, routing through an HDMI switcher, different inputs on the TV, tried resetting the 360, and now get no picture at all (TV says "No Signal" and Denon audio display is flashing.

My PS3 and cable box picture are fine, so I know it is not the TV.

Is my 360 just dead? Am I better off trying to repair it or just getting a new console?

Thanks for any input you may have.

360 Elite connected via HDMI to Denon AVR 2807, 2807 via HDMI to Samsung PN63C8000. Everything worked fine for 40+ days. A few days ago while playing Black Ops color goes strange - backgrounds look "painted" and resolution is awful. Screen flickers and horizontal lines "flicker" through the picture. I turned the 360 off and back on, and now there is no picture and the audio display on my Denon is flashing like mad. After a few power cycles, the picture returns, but color is still messed up. This continues if I go to the dashboard, watch a Netflix movie, saved video, etc.

Over the next few days, color continues to go strange, but only after the 360 has been on for a few minutes (i.e., it looks fine for 5-10 minutes). Tonight, it happened again and I tried to trouble shoot. I've tried hooking the 360 directly to the TV, a new HDMI cable, routing through an HDMI switcher, different inputs on the TV, tried resetting the 360, and now get no picture at all (TV says "No Signal" and Denon audio display is flashing.

My PS3 and cable box picture are fine, so I know it is not the TV.

Is my 360 just dead? Am I better off trying to repair it or just getting a new console?

Thanks for any input you may have.

Sounds like the beginning of the end for your Xbox. However, all is not lost...in fact, not even close. There is absolutely no need whatsoever to buy a new Xbox. Simply do Lawdawg's original repair (no shims, etc.) in which you remove the POS X-Clamps. A PDF (see post #1494) was linked in this very thread not but a few posts ago. It's a simple process that takes < 30 minutes and costs < $10. (Just make sure to follow all instuctions completely and you'll be fine.)

Sounds like the beginning of the end for your Xbox. However, all is not lost...in fact, not even close. There is absolutely no need whatsoever to buy a new Xbox. Simply do Lawdawg's original repair (no shims, etc.) in which you remove the POS X-Clamps. A PDF (see post #1494) was linked in this very thread not but a few posts ago. It's a simple process that takes < 30 minutes and costs < $10. (Just make sure to follow all instuctions completely and you'll be fine.)

I'd like to jump in here. I don't know if it's the same as Lawdog's method but I used the rrod fix from eHow this weekend. Had my 360 since 2005 and it rrod'd every year like clockwork. I was sent a different unit each time. Last time it rrod'd 3 months out of warranty and I had just gotten a PS3, so I just put it in the closet. For some reason this week I just pulled it out and hooked it up and still no good. I decided to research if I could fix it. Found a tutorial on eHow and bought the parts. $6 worth of screws and washers from Lowes and $10 for silver thermal paste from Radio Shack. Followed the tutorial and it took about an hour altogether. Fired it up and it's working. Kids played it for about 4 hours on Sunday with no problems at all. We'll see how much of a long term fix it is but so far so good!

360 Elite connected via HDMI to Denon AVR 2807, 2807 via HDMI to Samsung PN63C8000. Everything worked fine for 40+ days. A few days ago while playing Black Ops color goes strange - backgrounds look "painted" and resolution is awful. Screen flickers and horizontal lines "flicker" through the picture. I turned the 360 off and back on, and now there is no picture and the audio display on my Denon is flashing like mad. After a few power cycles, the picture returns, but color is still messed up. This continues if I go to the dashboard, watch a Netflix movie, saved video, etc.

Over the next few days, color continues to go strange, but only after the 360 has been on for a few minutes (i.e., it looks fine for 5-10 minutes). Tonight, it happened again and I tried to trouble shoot. I've tried hooking the 360 directly to the TV, a new HDMI cable, routing through an HDMI switcher, different inputs on the TV, tried resetting the 360, and now get no picture at all (TV says "No Signal" and Denon audio display is flashing.

My PS3 and cable box picture are fine, so I know it is not the TV.

Is my 360 just dead? Am I better off trying to repair it or just getting a new console?

Thanks for any input you may have.

Before you go tinkering around with opening up your Xbox and voiding any warranty repairs I suggest you call MS and find out if they'll repair it for free or replace it.

Before you go tinkering around with opening up your Xbox and voiding any warranty repairs I suggest you call MS and find out if they'll repair it for free or replace it.

Agreed! :) I assume that if people are posting on here that they already know about the 3 year warranty with MS on all consoles...other than the ridiculously short 1 year warranty on Slims. I further assume that if the console is out of warranty that AVS users would rather do ANYTHING other than pay MS' absurd fee of $100+ to "repair" their unit.

As a rule, one should always pursue a free "repair" and then fix themselves, if necessary.

I am trying to get my Turtle Beach Headphones plugged into my Pioneer VSX-01txh Receiver, but I do not hear anything from them while playing game on my Xbox360. If I don't use the receiver I simply plug my Headphones into the USB port on the xbox, and the audio out plugs into the TV, and all is good. However when using the receiver I'm not getting any sound. I cannot find an AUDIO output that works. Someone please help me with this. I tried looking for a owners thread on this receiver, and cant find one. I looked did a search in a similar receivers thread but nothing with Turtle Beach came up in the search.

I am trying to get my Turtle Beach Headphones plugged into my Pioneer VSX-01txh Receiver, but I do not hear anything from them while playing game on my Xbox360. If I don't use the receiver I simply plug my Headphones into the USB port on the xbox, and the audio out plugs into the TV, and all is good. However when using the receiver I'm not getting any sound. I cannot find an AUDIO output that works. Someone please help me with this. I tried looking for a owners thread on this receiver, and cant find one. I looked did a search in a similar receivers thread but nothing with Turtle Beach came up in the search.

Google is your friend: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Home/VSX-01TXH_OperatingInstructions0523.pdf

I started a thread on this, but also wanted to post it here:

How long does the warranty last for Xbox 360s?
My nephew got a new Xbox Elite back in 2008 (not sure of the exact date yet) and now it is getting the 2 red rings (overheated?)
His dad called Xbox and was told the warranty only lasts for a year and that an extended warrant costs $15x.
I thought I remember seeing that the warranty lasts for 3 years, during which time you can send your 360 back to Microsoft an unlimited number of times (he has already sent it back once, I believe).

How long does the warranty last for Xbox 360s?

"Old" models (pre-slim) are 3 years for the 3 red rings, 1 year (I believe) for everything else. "New" (slim) models are 1 year.

I suggest he or his dad go to https://myservice.xbox.com/en-US/Pages/Welcome.aspx, register the console, and it'll verify the warranty length, as well as suggest appropriate steps to take.

"Old" models (pre-slim) are 3 years for the 3 red rings, 1 year (I believe) for everything else. "New" (slim) models are 1 year.

I suggest he or his dad go to https://myservice.xbox.com/en-US/Pages/Welcome.aspx, register the console, and it'll verify the warranty length, as well as suggest appropriate steps to take.

His dad called Microsoft and they were told they had to pay over $100 to have it fixed. I think because his only has 2 rings.
Is there anyway to get the 360 to 3 rings, so he can send it in?

His dad called Microsoft and they were told they had to pay over $100 to have it fixed. I think because his only has 2 rings.
Is there anyway to get the 360 to 3 rings, so he can send it in?

Just claim that it gives a 3 red light error, but also gives 2 lights sometimes as well. 2 red lights is a typical precursor to 3, so it shouldn't be difficult for MS to buy the story. If they shoot you down for whatever reason, ask for a supervisor. DO NOT pay MS one cent to repair if still under 3 year warranty!!!

His dad called Microsoft and they were told they had to pay over $100 to have it fixed. I think because his only has 2 rings.
Is there anyway to get the 360 to 3 rings, so he can send it in?

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/907533
The two red rings indicate overheating. Is the console getting enough ventilation? You could try buying a laptop cooler and placing it under the console or just have a fan blowing on it. Laptop coolers can be found for under $10. If you want to try to make it get the three red rings, just leave it on, wrap it in a towel, and see if that will force it to have the issue. Or like spyder said just tell MS you're getting the 3RR. The only thing about doing it that way is once they get the console and only get the 2RR, they're probably going to want to charge you to fix it.

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/907533
The two red rings indicate overheating. Is the console getting enough ventilation? You could try buying a laptop cooler and placing it under the console or just have a fan blowing on it. Laptop coolers can be found for under $10. If you want to try to make it get the three red rings, just leave it on, wrap it in a towel, and see if that will force it to have the issue. Or like spyder said just tell MS you're getting the 3RR. The only thing about doing it that way is once they get the console and only get the 2RR, they're probably going to want to charge you to fix it.

In theory, "causing" 3 lights sounds like a good idea, however, it's best to just claim it gets 3 rather than 2 for no other reason than you don't know what console you'll get back. It could be your own (though unlikely) in which case, you're VERY suspect to have an E74 or other error occur in the near future arise, since you've now overheated ALL of the components within. :(

As I said, I think it wise to just claim it gets 3 lights, but sometimes shows 2. MS shouldn't charge you if you're even remotely convincing, given the two errors are both indicative of the same issue(s). I doubt they will even check.

Ok so my gamertag was reported for inappropriate name and had to change it upon log in. Now I did this about 10 times since I kept making the gamertag similar to the original one that was reported.

Now I tried to log on and banned indefinitely and cant even connect to live. Is there any I can petition to get the account unbanned? I had like 6 freaking months left on my gold sub :(

Ok so my gamertag was reported for inappropriate name and had to change it upon log in. Now I did this about 10 times since I kept making the gamertag similar to the original one that was reported.

Now I tried to log on and banned indefinitely and cant even connect to live. Is there any I can petition to get the account unbanned? I had like 6 freaking months left on my gold sub :(

It's been gone over in some detail in the past, but there's a whole forum on xbox.com for account suspensions. One of the catches is that if you don't fix the problem that was reported at first, each additional change you make is counting as a violation against you.
So if you've only slightly changed your tag and haven't removed the core of the violation you keep on getting flagged for additional offenses with each attempt.

Maybe the problem is that you're not actually making a less offensive tag, just slightly modifying it?

Maybe the problem is that you're not actually making a less offensive tag, just slightly modifying it?

Yeah I made about 10 different variations of PalinsLeakyVag

Didn't see an indefinite ban coming though.

Got an E71 error after Dead Space 2 locked up on me tonight. Unplugged everything and plugged it all back and it was a no go starting up. Tried the wireless button on the controller trick too and still got the E71 error. Since I know I am no longer covered on the warranty and this like the 4th console I decided to open it up and look. I was surprised with how sparse the system looks inside. I did blow it out earlier before I opened it up, but even then I was still surprised there was not a lot of dust in it especially around the heat sinks and between the grooves. Not sure if the DVD is the problem, but it was making some awful sounding noises on the startup if there was no DVD in it for awhile.

Got an E71 error after Dead Space 2 locked up on me tonight. Unplugged everything and plugged it all back and it was a no go starting up. Tried the wireless button on the controller trick too and still got the E71 error. Since I know I am no longer covered on the warranty and this like the 4th console I decided to open it up and look. I was surprised with how sparse the system looks inside. I did blow it out earlier before I opened it up, but even then I was still surprised there was not a lot of dust in it especially around the heat sinks and between the grooves. Not sure if the DVD is the problem, but it was making some awful sounding noises on the startup if there was no DVD in it for awhile.

Here's an article I found on some things you can do to fix the E71 error:
http://ezinearticles.com/?Xbox-360-E71-Error-Repair-Tips&id=2248599
Your fourth console? Were all the others bad too?

Got an E71 error after Dead Space 2 locked up on me tonight. Unplugged everything and plugged it all back and it was a no go starting up. Tried the wireless button on the controller trick too and still got the E71 error. Since I know I am no longer covered on the warranty and this like the 4th console I decided to open it up and look. I was surprised with how sparse the system looks inside. I did blow it out earlier before I opened it up, but even then I was still surprised there was not a lot of dust in it especially around the heat sinks and between the grooves. Not sure if the DVD is the problem, but it was making some awful sounding noises on the startup if there was no DVD in it for awhile.

E71 = Cold solder joint on Southbridge. Reflow or clamp. Pray.

Here's an article I found on some things you can do to fix the E71 error:
http://ezinearticles.com/?Xbox-360-E71-Error-Repair-Tips&id=2248599
Your fourth console? Were all the others bad too?

All my others all had the RROD and MS replaced them. The last one they replaced was the one that died and it actually last a lot longer. I knew it was out of warranty so I opened it up and the board looks amazingly well. Have not pried up the CPU and GPU heatsinks since I do not have a T8 screwdriver, but I still might try and find another bad xbox and swap out the drive and see if that works. I did go buy a 250GB unit tonight so at least I am back up and gaming again, though I am drooling over my Sager laptop I ordered, but not going to get for another month or two. Elder Scrolls V SkyRim should play pretty damn good and hopefully look great on that and not my 360 :D

...Have not pried up the CPU and GPU heatsinks since I do not have a T8 screwdriver, but I still might try and find another bad xbox and swap out the drive and see if that works...

Hope you know that you can't simply swap out drives between consoles without extracting the key(s).

Hope you know that you can't simply swap out drives between consoles without extracting the key(s).

Well crap, I did not know that. Figures.. that would have been to easy.:D
I am now a proud owner of a 250GB Xbox so at least I am up and gaming again. Still need to transfer over the DRM for my Xbox arcade titles onto my new system. I had no problem transferring everything on my 60GB HDD over to the new one with the USB transfer cable.

Ok, new problem but this time on my 250S system. It seems that I have two games so far that make weird noises from the CD tray when are being played. One is Kinect Adventures and from what I can tell it plays fine, but I just hear a weired noise coming from the cd tray. I ended up installing that game to the Hard Drive and that is fine since it only needs the game in on the start up and loads from the hard drive. I checked the disc itself and see nothing wrong with it except for some faint scratches but nothing bad.

The other game was Dead Space which gives me the same noise like Kinect Adventures too. This time I played the game until I got my Peng achievement and once I got that I went back to the dashboard and once again when the disc quit spinning the noise went away. When I checked the game this time I noticed to little chips missing from the edge of the DVD and I figured that was making it not spin right. Yet Kinect Adventures has no such chips and still makes the noise.

What truly sucks is all other games I have tried work just fine and the system is quiet as can be! I'll be pissed if I have to send this one in since I Just got it a few weeks ago and I had to have Customer Support do a manual transfer of my Xbox Arcade games for the DRM issues. Had no problems moving it all via the harddrive cable transfer, but all subaccounts were locked out until the DRM transfer to the new system ID.

Any suggestions on what I can do or try?

I just bought the Yamaha RX-V467. It has HDMI out w/arc which is connected to my HDMI input on my Plasma. I have the 3D blu ray player going into HDMI 1 on my avr. The blu ray player works fine. I connected my Xbox 360 slim using HDMI to HDMI 2 on the avr. I get no picture only sound. I can plug the Xbox into my plasma and i get picture and sound. I don't understand why im not getting a picture when going through my Yamaha.

Ok, new problem but this time on my 250S system. It seems that I have two games so far that make weird noises from the CD tray when are being played. One is Kinect Adventures and from what I can tell it plays fine, but I just hear a weired noise coming from the cd tray. I ended up installing that game to the Hard Drive and that is fine since it only needs the game in on the start up and loads from the hard drive. I checked the disc itself and see nothing wrong with it except for some faint scratches but nothing bad.

The other game was Dead Space which gives me the same noise like Kinect Adventures too. This time I played the game until I got my Peng achievement and once I got that I went back to the dashboard and once again when the disc quit spinning the noise went away. When I checked the game this time I noticed to little chips missing from the edge of the DVD and I figured that was making it not spin right. Yet Kinect Adventures has no such chips and still makes the noise.

What truly sucks is all other games I have tried work just fine and the system is quiet as can be! I'll be pissed if I have to send this one in since I Just got it a few weeks ago and I had to have Customer Support do a manual transfer of my Xbox Arcade games for the DRM issues. Had no problems moving it all via the harddrive cable transfer, but all subaccounts were locked out until the DRM transfer to the new system ID.

Any suggestions on what I can do or try?

Since you just got the console a few weeks ago, I would take it back and exchange it for a new one. I wouldn't bother trying to figure out what's wrong with it. And let the store know that it ruined one of your discs and see if they'll exchange that too. If not, contact Xbox support and see if they can do something for you.

I just bought the Yamaha RX-V467. It has HDMI out w/arc which is connected to my HDMI input on my Plasma. I have the 3D blu ray player going into HDMI 1 on my avr. The blu ray player works fine. I connected my Xbox 360 slim using HDMI to HDMI 2 on the avr. I get no picture only sound. I can plug the Xbox into my plasma and i get picture and sound. I don't understand why im not getting a picture when going through my Yamaha.

Have you tried switching the Xbox with the blu-ray player and see if it works? If it does then you know it's not the xbox but maybe a setting on the Yamaha or the TV. I've found out that sometimes you have to label the different connections in order for them to work. You might need to go into the avr settings and set HDMI2 for dvd player or game system. Hope that helps.

My brother in law is having a weird issue. Whenever he goes to play an arcade title it says it cannot save. If he goes back to the dashboard his profile is logged off (no avatar shown, and zero gamerscore). However, if he goes to play a normal disc based game he does not have this issue.

I tried to do a Google search but came up with nothing, has anyone heard of this before?

I figure I would share my experience with RROD and x-clamp fix. I bought an xbox elite on launch day, and it sat horizontal on the floor of a fairly cool room by itself for it's entire life. I play probably 5-10 hours a week on average.

My unit got the RROD a few weeks ago and I took it to a local shop to fix. It worked fine for a few weeks with maybe 20 hours on it. Well, it got RROD again a few days ago. I went on YouTube and watched a few videos on the xclamp fix, bought the bolts, a heat gun, artic silver, etc...did the fix this weekend. It was really easy and I discovered this is all the company did that charged me $40 as the xclamp was replaced with bolts.

The unit turned on right away and I played for about 2 hours with no problems. But, the fans are much louder then before so I have a feeling I'll get another RROD again. This seems to be a common feedback from most people so I seriously doubt a RROD self-fix is long term.

Just thought I would share--You can fix RROD yourself for about $20-40 bucks and an hour of your time but I doubt it will ever be truly 100%. It will probably give you a few more weeks of gaming, but you should probably save up for a new xbox during that time.

I figure I would share my experience with RROD and x-clamp fix. I bought an xbox elite on launch day, and it sat horizontal on the floor of a fairly cool room by itself for it's entire life. I play probably 5-10 hours a week on average.

My unit got the RROD a few weeks ago and I took it to a local shop to fix. It worked fine for a few weeks with maybe 20 hours on it. Well, it got RROD again a few days ago. I went on YouTube and watched a few videos on the xclamp fix, bought the bolts, a heat gun, artic silver, etc...did the fix this weekend. It was really easy and I discovered this is all the company did that charged me $40 as the xclamp was replaced with bolts.

The unit turned on right away and I played for about 2 hours with no problems. But, the fans are much louder then before so I have a feeling I'll get another RROD again. This seems to be a common feedback from most people so I seriously doubt a RROD self-fix is long term.

Just thought I would share--You can fix RROD yourself for about $20-40 bucks and an hour of your time but I doubt it will ever be truly 100%. It will probably give you a few more weeks of gaming, but you should probably save up for a new xbox during that time.

Yeah, my fix lasted a couple of weeks. Got sick of it so I sold all my XBOX accessories and the unit it self on eBay. Already had a PS3 anyway. It was worth a shot I guess...

how do i back up my profile and saved game data like from where I left off and all the work ive done onto an external hard drive ?

I have the slim now and I transferred everything from my 20gb hard drive to the slim console. the data transfer cable doesnt exactly copy everything over, it transfers it.

Im just a little worried about something happening to the SLim and with the hard drive being internal. I just want to back everything up on to something external and still keep the data on the internal hard drive as well.

any ideas ?

250gb xbox360 slim issue. When I start up the system, I got a really loud noise that came from the DVD drive. But it went away. This was last night. Then recently, its making a louder than norman "hum" noise. I play BC2 only and it's loaded on to my HD. I don't use it for anything else but gaming. I also have an exhaust fan on top of the xbox. To draw more heat from the unit. The unit is horizontial. This xbox was the first run production units. I don't know what to expect. I guess we will see what will happen.

I've had a wireless connection on my Xbox for years now, but I've started running into problems in the last week or so. I'm using a Netgear wireless-N router, but I'm using the older non-wireless-N adapter on the 360. It has always performed relatively flawlessly for a wireless connection, but recently seems to be slowing down intermittently. When I start the 360, it is taking a LONG time to connect to Xbox Live and it has the same issue with downloads. I tried to download the Black Ops demo last night (roughly 1 gig) and it seriously took 9 hours. But it seems to be hit or miss: this afternoon I downloaded a trailer at the usual quick speed until it hit 97%, then it slowed to a crawl for another couple minutes. The next thing I downloaded got to 2% before I gave up and cancelled it. I have the latest firmware for the router, and it seems to be working well on all other wireless peripherals like my iPod touch, PC, and PS3--which used to give me fits trying to do anything online with my old Linksys router. The channel on the router is set to "Auto," which it always has been (perhaps I need to change it?). When I run a speed test for the modem, everything comes back fine. The only thing that has recently changed was that I got a new TV and TV stand. The new TV stand is wood and a little more enclosed around the Xbox, but I swear I tested it when I first got the stand and it worked fine. The PS3 is also in the same stand, and doesn't have any connection issues. The new TV is a Samsung UN55D8000, which has a wireless connection, but I can't imagine it should slow everything down, especially when not using the Smart TV features.

Any thoughts or suggestions? Any help is greatly appreciated!

Is there anyway to get the annoying flashing circle green light on the controller off (for the rechargeable battery) its such a pain and starts flashing way to early!!!

250gb xbox360 slim issue. When I start up the system, I got a really loud noise that came from the DVD drive. But it went away. This was last night. Then recently, its making a louder than norman "hum" noise. I play BC2 only and it's loaded on to my HD. I don't use it for anything else but gaming. I also have an exhaust fan on top of the xbox. To draw more heat from the unit. The unit is horizontial. This xbox was the first run production units. I don't know what to expect. I guess we will see what will happen.

I just bought a slim and wow it is quite a bit louder than I expected it to be... It is just as loud to me as my old Arcade Xbox.

Is there anyway to get the annoying flashing circle green light on the controller off (for the rechargeable battery) its such a pain and starts flashing way to early!!!

I have no idea, but it would be great if that was the case. OMG I swear I have several hours of play time before I need to recharge it and it starts flashing...

I just got a slim a couple of weeks ago and I was surprised by how loud it is too. It is definitely louder than the first gen 360 it replaced. I realized that the console itself is very quiet but the power supply sounds like a desk fan.

I haven't gotten around to calling MS to see about getting a quieter replacement power supply.

I figure I would share my experience with RROD and x-clamp fix. I bought an xbox elite on launch day, and it sat horizontal on the floor of a fairly cool room by itself for it's entire life. I play probably 5-10 hours a week on average.
............
Just thought I would share--You can fix RROD yourself for about $20-40 bucks and an hour of your time but I doubt it will ever be truly 100%. It will probably give you a few more weeks of gaming, but you should probably save up for a new xbox during that time.

I did the RROD fix on several ancient xboxes and, yes, all except one has failed after a few weeks. But one that I fixed last July is still running. I didn't sit it on the floor where it can pick up tons of dust and I left the cover off so that I blow air on it with a fan. Probably doing this kept the motherboard cool and prevented it from warping.

I figure I would share my experience with RROD and x-clamp fix. I bought an xbox elite on launch day, and it sat horizontal on the floor of a fairly cool room by itself for it's entire life. I play probably 5-10 hours a week on average.

My unit got the RROD a few weeks ago and I took it to a local shop to fix. It worked fine for a few weeks with maybe 20 hours on it. Well, it got RROD again a few days ago. I went on YouTube and watched a few videos on the xclamp fix, bought the bolts, a heat gun, artic silver, etc...did the fix this weekend. It was really easy and I discovered this is all the company did that charged me $40 as the xclamp was replaced with bolts.

The unit turned on right away and I played for about 2 hours with no problems. But, the fans are much louder then before so I have a feeling I'll get another RROD again. This seems to be a common feedback from most people so I seriously doubt a RROD self-fix is long term.

Just thought I would share--You can fix RROD yourself for about $20-40 bucks and an hour of your time but I doubt it will ever be truly 100%. It will probably give you a few more weeks of gaming, but you should probably save up for a new xbox during that time.

There's 2 different RROD fixes. The most common one is referred to as the Xecutor X-Clamp replacement, and is just 8 10mm bolts, 8 nylon washers and 8 metal washers. The second is the Hybrid Xclamp fix. (http://xbox-experts.com/tutorial/team-hybrids-ultimate-xclamp-fix-released/)

The first kit with just the bolts may work for a short time, but it puts pressure on top of the CPU and GPU, so eventually it will cause the board to warp. Also, the nylon washers shrink from the heat making the pressure uneven.

The hybrid kit replaces the X-clamp with what's called the Uniclamp. You put foam shims around the GPU and the CPU to spread out the pressure on the chips. And the pads on the uniclamp are the same exact size as the shims, so you have equal pressure on both sides. The screws go through the metal case, just like the x-clamps, and this further holds everything in place and keeps it from warping.

Read the tutorial and proof of concept on this page:
http://xbox-experts.com/tutorial/team-hybrids-ultimate-xclamp-fix-released/
It's very interesting. You can also order the X-clamp from the same site. Or PM me, I am working on becoming a reseller.

Of course an option is to get the Xbox reflowed. You can usually get this done for between $30 and $60. But you need to make sure the person doing the repair actually does reflows or reballing and not just the x-clamp replacement. I'm hoping I can do both eventually.

Hey guys,

I have had 0 issues with my Xbox until now. It was manufactured in Oct 2007.

The other day, it started to get video artifacts (vertical black lines, red tint) when playing COD: BO but when in the game lobby or at the dashboard, it was fine. I rebooted and got the E74 error. Of course I am out of the 3 year warranty and I'm trying to figure out the best way to fix it.

Is the extreme hybrid xclamp fix worth trying or is E74 pretty much a death sentence?

Thanks

Please don't confuse me with a shill, but I can't but wonder why you don't use this perfectly good reason to upgrade to the newest slim model? The new model is SUPER quiet and I have not seen one report of any problems as of date. You might consider cutting your losses and not bother fixing it.

Unless you want to enter the mod world with it of course.. ;)

Hey guys,

I have had 0 issues with my Xbox until now. It was manufactured in Oct 2007.

The other day, it started to get video artifacts (vertical black lines, red tint) when playing COD: BO but when in the game lobby or at the dashboard, it was fine. I rebooted and got the E74 error. Of course I am out of the 3 year warranty and I'm trying to figure out the best way to fix it.

Is the extreme hybrid xclamp fix worth trying or is E74 pretty much a death sentence?

Thanks

Hold off on plunking down $200 for a fugly new Slim for now. What you have could be a cold solder joint in the GPU, but it's most likely the (H)ANA chip. I wouldn't go the full "exteme" fix, just do the old, simple and cheap LawDawg method. At worst, you'll be out $9, a trip to Lowe's, and 20 minutes of your time.

If that doesn't fix it, then it's the (H)ANA...not for mortal men without the proper equipment. :(

Hey guys,

I have had 0 issues with my Xbox until now. It was manufactured in Oct 2007.

The other day, it started to get video artifacts (vertical black lines, red tint) when playing COD: BO but when in the game lobby or at the dashboard, it was fine. I rebooted and got the E74 error. Of course I am out of the 3 year warranty and I'm trying to figure out the best way to fix it.

Is the extreme hybrid xclamp fix worth trying or is E74 pretty much a death sentence?

Thanks

I suggest you at least give Xbox support a call and see what they offer you. Even though you're past the 3 years, I've heard of them offering free replacements. IMO it doesn't hurt to try, all they can say is NO.

My "Jasper" Xbox (one if the first ones with the latest revision chipset; made late October 2008) just gave me the three red lights yesterday.

Supposedly, Microsoft claims they will fix the e74 error for free if the console is out of the 3-year warranty window.

Has anyone successfully received this offer?

They are telling a friend of mine that he has to pay for the repair.

Supposedly, Microsoft claims they will fix the e74 error for free if the console is out of the 3-year warranty window.

Has anyone successfully received this offer?

They are telling a friend of mine that he has to pay for the repair.

Here's what your friend should do:

Go to www.bbb.org and file a complaint against Microsoft. In a couple of days he should receive a call from MS wanting to know what they can do to resolve the issue. I'm fairly sure they will offer to fix his console for free. I've used this procedure a couple of times on past issues with MS. I even got a free game out of it one time. So, it's worth a shot to give it a try.

I am curious what you got if you opted for MS to send you a console, and you just put your broken one in the box the replacement came in.

I opted for repair, as my console is a "Jasper" (whoop-dee-doo apparently) - but I didn't want to get one of the older models that break even more often.

If you've opted for the "advanced replacement" option instead of repair recently, I want to know what chipset Xbox you got sent to you. Thanks

Hello all I'm not sure if this is the right forum section but I have an issue and looking to get some direction. I have a 61" Samsung DLP, rear projection, about 4 years old. I have it connected to an Xbox 360 - the new version, slim black. Anyways I've had Xbox's for years and am fully aware of all of their problems but this is new. When my son plays through Xbox Live the entire screen on the TV flashes red. It doesn't flood out the image but it hues everything red. The flashing will occur randomly and can begin as soon as he connects to Xbox Live or after a few minutes of play. I'm blaming the Xbox because none of the other devices; HD box or blue ray player will cause the same problem. Any suggestions?

Hello all I'm not sure if this is the right forum section but I have an issue and looking to get some direction. I have a 61" Samsung DLP, rear projection, about 4 years old. I have it connected to an Xbox 360 - the new version, slim black. Anyways I've had Xbox's for years and am fully aware of all of their problems but this is new. When my son plays through Xbox Live the entire screen on the TV flashes red. It doesn't flood out the image but it hues everything red. The flashing will occur randomly and can begin as soon as he connects to Xbox Live or after a few minutes of play. I'm blaming the Xbox because none of the other devices; HD box or blue ray player will cause the same problem. Any suggestions?

Aside from the obvious; switching HDMI cables or inputs, nothing. Beyond that, considering you've had previous consoles, one could only deduce that you got a defective unit.

Aside from the obvious; switching HDMI cables or inputs, nothing. Beyond that, considering you've had previous consoles, one could only deduce that you got a defective unit.

The odd thing it only happens when he plays on Xbox Live. He can play the campaigns and the issue doesn't come up. I should have mentioned it is connected via components and not HDMI. Maybe a firmware issue with the TV?

The odd thing it only happens when he plays on Xbox Live. He can play the campaigns and the issue doesn't come up. I should have mentioned it is connected via components and not HDMI. Maybe a firmware issue with the TV?

Is the Xbox connected via a router, wirelessly, or other? I'm thinking more along the lines of the internet connection than the TV, given the circumstances surrounding the issue.

Yes, its connected via a wireless router. Thanks for the feedback. Either way I'm going to do a firm ware update - if available for the TV. I'll post if anything changes.

Can anyone recommend a power inverter for the car to power an Xbox 360? I've tried up to a 700 watt converter and no joy. Anyone know of one particular inverter (make and model #) that works and tested? Please advise if you know one to recommend!!!

Thanks,
Tom:)

Hello, I have a problem.

I have connected an hdmi cable from my xbox to my projector and the image worlds great. I also connected an hdmi AV cable and optical adaptor so that I could connect the xbox sound to my home theatre sound system using digital optical cable. The problem is: the sound comes out of the projector speaker, through the hdmi cable, instead of the optical cable into my sound system.

Any advice would be great!

Thanks

Hello, I have a problem.

I have connected an hdmi cable from my xbox to my projector and the image worlds great. I also connected an hdmi AV cable and optical adaptor so that I could connect the xbox sound to my home theatre sound system using digital optical cable. The problem is: the sound comes out of the projector speaker, through the hdmi cable, instead of the optical cable into my sound system.

Any advice would be great!

Thanks

I had a similar issue when I purchased the Xbox. The solution I came up with was the cord that will allow you to plug the xbox into a computer monitor. The cord has a seperate optical output and a vga connector. Then of your projector is dvi, just by an adapter, should work well for you!

Hello, I have a problem.

I have connected an hdmi cable from my xbox to my projector and the image worlds great. I also connected an hdmi AV cable and optical adaptor so that I could connect the xbox sound to my home theatre sound system using digital optical cable. The problem is: the sound comes out of the projector speaker, through the hdmi cable, instead of the optical cable into my sound system.

Any advice would be great!

Thanks

The second HDMI cable and the optical cable are they going from the projector into your home theater system? I think you need to disconnect the optical cable or the HDMI. The HDMI cable does both audio and video so the optical cable shouldn't be necessary.

Hey guys, Problem:

I have an Xbox Elite system with a Mitsubishi DLP, about 4 years old. I just picked up the new Denon AVR-2112 receiver. Watching Blu Rays and TV, everything is fine. However when playing Xbox, The picture and sound go out on it for a split second randomly. There are times when I can play for an hour and all is good til it acts up. Then there are times when it acts up right away. I have it hooked up via HDMI to the Denon.

Before the Denon, when I was using my old Yamaha, this problem didn't exist. It's only happening with the Denon and I can't figure it out. I've ordered brand new HDMI cables on Amazon thinking that *might* be the problem being these HDMI cables might be 1.1 or 1.2?

I'm grasping at straws for a fix. Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks in advanced...

Hey guys, Problem:

I have an Xbox Elite system with a Mitsubishi DLP, about 4 years old. I just picked up the new Denon AVR-2112 receiver. Watching Blu Rays and TV, everything is fine. However when playing Xbox, The picture and sound go out on it for a split second randomly. There are times when I can play for an hour and all is good til it acts up. Then there are times when it acts up right away. I have it hooked up via HDMI to the Denon.

Before the Denon, when I was using my old Yamaha, this problem didn't exist. It's only happening with the Denon and I can't figure it out. I've ordered brand new HDMI cables on Amazon thinking that *might* be the problem being these HDMI cables might be 1.1 or 1.2?

I'm grasping at straws for a fix. Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks in advanced...

Time to start troubleshooting:

1.) Try a different HDMI cable (you are well on your way to that....). This will tell you if the HDMI cable is the problem.
2.) Try a different HDMI input. This will tell you if that particular input is the problem.
3.) Try component cables. This will tell you if the HDMI in/out is a problem. If it is, then connect another HDMI piece of equipment to the receiver to see if it is the receiver or the Xbox causing the HDMI problem.
4.) Check the settings on your 2112. Start here if you need help: http://batpigworld.com/
5.) Re-check your Xbox's display settings. Try other options to see if the issue goes away.

FYI: monoprice.com is the go-to place for lots o' people on this forum for HDMI cables if you are looking for a place to buy quality HDMI cables for cheap.

I have a question.

There are three different settings for the black level. Which one should be used when connecting via component?

For gaming what curve do you use...just curious..."audyssey" or Audyssey flat"....For HT I use "audyssey but I believe for gaming Audyssey flat may be better...can't decide LOL!!

Anyone ever have a bad power brick? I think the one that came with my Gears console is bad. Haven't even powered up the console yet, and the light on the brick is RED. It goes red even when not plugged into the console. (Starts orange but goes red after a few minutes.) That can't be right, can it? Just making sure before mailing it for an exchange.

Anyone ever have a bad power brick? I think the one that came with my Gears console is bad. Haven't even powered up the console yet, and the light on the brick is RED. It goes red even when not plugged into the console. (Starts orange but goes red after a few minutes.) That can't be right, can it? Just making sure before mailing it for an exchange.

I remember a few years ago when MS sent out replacement bricks for older Xbox's. But I've never had a problem with the power brick. Just to clarify, did you try to start up the console to see if it works? How long have you had the console? Maybe you can just take it back and exchange it. Did you call Xbox and what did they tell you?

I went through the troubleshooting steps on xbox site, and it ends up pointing to a bad power brick. I'm sending it in for a replacement.

I tend to set up my new consoles and run out of time before I even power them up. So it'll be days later that I actually sit down and power it up and run through the initial setup. This one caught me cuz I can see easily the light on the brick and noticed that it was red, whereas the others stayed orange. I didn't want to risk anything with the console, since I suspect the brick is bad. But I did learn that it won't power up with the brick showing a red light. :)

I sent my XBOX 4Gb Slim on Tuesday 11/22 and got a notification on 11/26 that a replacement is shipping on 11/28. Should have it back by 12/1. Yeah for the quick turnaround, i'm presuming its a ready to go refurb.

I sent my XBOX 4Gb Slim on Tuesday 11/22 and got a notification on 11/26 that a replacement is shipping on 11/28. Should have it back by 12/1. Yeah for the quick turnaround, i'm presuming its a ready to go refurb.

10 days is pretty quick. MS is getting good at this, having shipped out hundreds of thousands of replacements. I'm certain they have an entire warehouse full of refurbs. (Yes, even Slims do fail.) Hope your refurb turns out OK! Good luck.

I sent my XBOX 4Gb Slim on Tuesday 11/22 and got a notification on 11/26 that a replacement is shipping on 11/28. Should have it back by 12/1. Yeah for the quick turnaround, i'm presuming its a ready to go refurb.

On the UPS truck and will be delivered today. I'll fire it up tomorrow and test it out over the weekend.

Need to find good instructions to transfer my data from the Arcade i'm using. The slim was my nephews he got in May. I traded to him another 360 I had, so this one is now mine, all mine. Hope I can do it nice and easy.

Update: XBOX received, manufacture July 2011 (previous was April 2011). Fired it up, connected to XBL, recovered Gamertag and its working like a CHAMP. Thumbs up to MS for the quick and hassle free repair & return!

hi i was wondering if anyone could help me in a few days i have to change my wireless modem so i was wondering after i put the modem in will i have to change anyting in my Xbox Live setup or on my laptop and if i do could you explain how i would do that 'because im not very good with problems like this

thanks for the help

hi i was wondering if anyone could help me in a few days i have to change my wireless modem so i was wondering after i put the modem in will i have to change anyting in my Xbox Live setup or on my laptop and if i do could you explain how i would do that 'because im not very good with problems like this

thanks for the help

I think the only thing you need to do is make sure your Xbox and laptop are turned off before turning on the new modem. You might even consider disconnecting the ethernet wire. Once you turn the modem on and all the lights are green or blinking green like they are supposed too, then turn on the Xbox and check to see if it has an internet connection. If you have a problem call your cable/dsl company's tech support.

Is anyone else having Netflix problems on their 360? I get an error message when I try to play most shows that there are problems with my network connection, error code R8211 or some BS. I saw a thread about this on Xbox forums with other users complaining as well, and just wondered if anyone on AVS has had the problem. Needless to say, nothing is wrong with my network as everything except Netflix works.

EDIT: Streaming through my macbook doesn't work either, it hangs up as its loading the shows. Pretty sure they are having server problems or something. My patience is wearing thin with Netflix.

Hi, I have a problem trying to get my xbox 360 to work on my projector (panasonic ae700). The xbox worked great on my plasma tv (720p) but when I connect it to the projector via HDMI, I get no signal at all. When I routed through a receiver, I can actually hear the sound but no image. I thought it's the receiver's problem at first, so I tried to connect the xbox directly to the projector. Still no image. Does the length of the HDMI cable make any difference? I apologize if this has been answered before. I couldn't go through all the pages in the thread. Thanks for your help.

Does the length of the HDMI cable make any difference?

It certainly can..what length cable are you using? What output resolution do you have the Xbox set at, and does the projector support it?

Hi, I have a problem trying to get my xbox 360 to work on my projector (panasonic ae700). The xbox worked great on my plasma tv (720p) but when I connect it to the projector via HDMI, I get no signal at all. When I routed through a receiver, I can actually hear the sound but no image. I thought it's the receiver's problem at first, so I tried to connect the xbox directly to the projector. Still no image. Does the length of the HDMI cable make any difference? I apologize if this has been answered before. I couldn't go through all the pages in the thread. Thanks for your help.

Although no maximum length for an HDMI cable is specified, signal attenuation (dependent on the cable's construction quality and conducting materials) limits usable lengths in practice.[65] HDMI 1.3 defines two cable categories: Category 1-certified cables, which have been tested at 74.5 MHz (which would include resolutions such as 720p60 and 1080i60), and Category 2-certified cables, which have been tested at 340 MHz (which would include resolutions such as 1080p60 and 2160p30).[62][66][67] Category 1 HDMI cables are marketed as "Standard" and Category 2 HDMI cables as "High Speed".[1] This labeling guideline for HDMI cables went into effect on October 17, 2008.[68][69] Category 1 and 2 cables can either meet the required parameter specifications for interpair skew, far-end crosstalk, attenuation and differential impedance, or they can meet the required nonequalized/equalized eye diagram requirements.[66] A cable of about 5 meters (16 ft) can be manufactured to Category 1 specifications easily and inexpensively by using 28 AWG (0.081 mm²) conductors.[65] With better quality construction and materials, including 24 AWG (0.205 mm²) conductors, an HDMI cable can reach lengths of up to 15 meters (49 ft).[65] Many HDMI cables under 5 meters of length that were made before the HDMI 1.3 specification can work as Category 2 cables, but only Category 2-tested cables are guaranteed to work.[70]
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI

In practical terms, today, for distances 50 feet and shorter, even economical HDMI cables are usually reliable at 720p, 1080i and (though this is less consistently so) 1080p. For very short runs--all those 3 and 6 foot cables out there in the world, at least when not being used as part of a much longer signal chain--it's best not to worry about it at all. But for those long runs, the future is still very unclear. Low-cost 50-foot cables which are near their performance limit at 1080p today may not work with 16-bit color 1080p tomorrow.

If you're in the longer-than-50-foot category, it gets dicier. We have had good consistent results with the Series-1 cable out to 100 feet, with reports of no trouble in the great majority of installations. Cable quality starts to be a real concern at these distances, and performance always is hard to predict, especially because the cable that works on one source/display pair may not work on another. There is, unfortunately, no really good way to know what will work without plugging it in.
http://www.bluejeanscable.com/articles/how-long-can-hdmi-run.htm

aztony- i also get the same problem with connecting my xbox elite to my epson 705hd projector. could my problem also be that i would need a category 2 hdmi cable. i have multiple cables and i can not get a signal to save my life! would the v/h sync range for the projector have anything to do with this? or could it be the xbox or cables i am using? ive searched everywhere for a conclusion to this dilemma and i cant seem to find any type of resolution. any help would be great! thanks

aztony- i also get the same problem with connecting my xbox elite to my epson 705hd projector. could my problem also be that i would need a category 2 hdmi cable. i have multiple cables and i can not get a signal to save my life! would the v/h sync range for the projector have anything to do with this? or could it be the xbox or cables i am using? ive searched everywhere for a conclusion to this dilemma and i cant seem to find any type of resolution. any help would be great! thanks

Sorry, I've never owned a projector and don't know much about them when it comes to connectivity. If you think it might be that you need a category 2 HDMI cable, I suggest you give it a try. If that's not the problem you can always return the cable. I assume you have already contacted Epson and/or Xbox support to find out what the problem could be.

I tried researching your problem online but the only thing I found was from 3 years ago dealing with projectors and the xbox :http://uk.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20090112104723AAmVBoD

Found this on the Epson website but it deals with the PS3 and the Epson 705HD:
Q:
I connected my Sony PS3 to the projector's HDMI port and I can't see the video displayed. I only hear the audio. What should I do?
A:
Check the following:
Make sure the projector is ON, and the source is set to the HDMI port you are using.

Make sure the PS3 is connected to the HDMI port.

Turn on the PS3 using the power button and hold it for 5 seconds (release the power button after the second beep). Your PS3 should automatically set the projector's native resolution.