So can more then 1 device be using the ethernet connecting at once? Such as downloading with your Xbox 360 but also playing online with your PS3? If so that would be awesome

Yes you can do this.......The device has a switch in it, so instead of being hard wired for each port (Old models), it is much easier and a better solution to just put a switch in it, so you can be using all the ports if you want at the same time........Also, Walmart shipped mine today...........

Yes you can do this.......The device has a switch in it, so instead of being hard wired for each port (Old models), it is much easier and a better solution to just put a switch in it, so you can be using all the ports if you want at the same time........Also, Walmart shipped mine today...........
So it functions like a router or hub. Then it is a fairly good deal. I would get this right away if I didn't already have the pelican system selector 2.0 for my ps2, xbox and xbox 360.

After reading this post, I purchased a Psyclone PSC01 because my Toshiba 52HM95 52" DLP HDTV only has two component connections. I have an Xbox 360, a Motorolla DVR through my cable company and--now that I've finally received the component cables--a Nintendo Wii that all use component connections. My PS3 is connected via an HDMI cable. Okay, here's the really weird part, the Xbox 360 games and HDDVD player look fantastic, but the Wii is having jumping issues. The screen only jumps on the initial menu and the Wii store where you download games. Games look fine as do the settings menus, which are very different from the initial menu. When I hook up the Wii directly to the TV, everything looks fine. I've tried all the different inputs with the same results. Any clue what might be causing this strange behavior? Would exchanging it for another PSC01 by chance fix the problem?

I'm having the same issue with a European 245c and Wii via component. Wii set to 480i or P and menu's jump but game is fine. Set to 576i(Pal) and menus are fine but screen goes blank in-game.

Did you ever get this issue fixed Vanders??

Hi,

I have had a problem with scan lines on my Psyclone PSC01 unit so I went and got another one to see if I had a bum unit. I was getting a Vertical bar followed by a horizontal line with rectangles (you would have to see it) on both my Wii and ReplayTV units. The 'new' unit also displays these lines AND I get tearing on a load screen for Wii sports on the Wii.


Strangely no lines appeared with my 400 Disk Sony DVD (component 480p) player or the PS2 (also component) , but I could not get the PS2 optical to be switched via the Psyclone???

The short story is I have a bunch of issues with the Psyclone unit.

I contacted their tech support via their site website

psyclonegamer
com (cant post urls due to "spam restriction")

and got back this response:

"We have been seeing a small percentage of defective
units as we have sold quite a few of them in the past couple weeks. We
would like to see this unit if possible. Let me know if you would be
willing to send it in to us. We would get you a new unit as well as a
Gift Card to Best Buy to make up for the shipping costs. Let me know if
you would be willing to do this."

What is kinda odd is that they say they have a "small percentage of defective units" but have also "sold quite a few (defective units)". I have the same problem with both my Psyclone units but the units differ about a year in purchase date.

Also, this issue only manifests itself when switching 480p signals, before when I used it for my 1080i signals it had no scan lines.


I thought my story may help some other individuals in their quest, BTW I have a Mitsubishi WT-46805 rear projection HDTV.

So I would like to switch to the Joytech 245C unit but I haven't found any real world info about it.

Any thoughts about the 245C?

Got my Joytech 540C today and it is great......Picture Quality looks great.....I am running it into a Sony 50A10. At first the 360 port is set to run S-V which is S-Video out instead of YUV which is for Component, This made the image Black and White, so I had to change that in the setting, No big deal, but YUV is the default, mine just wasn't......I like the system over all. The switch is great for downloading stuff on the 360 while watching TV or something and the device looks good.......I did have one thing that is wrong though, the LCD screen looks like there is a small hair line crack or something in it. You can't see it unless you are really close. I am going to just live with it, since the system has a 2 year warranty. I might E-mail them and see what they say though.....But other then that my DVR, PS2, Xbox and 360 all looks great and for the cheap price, I think it is worth it..........

Got the Joytech 240c off ebay the other day, hooked it up with Composite and it works flawlessly. Cables should be here tomorrow so I'll test out the S-Video and Optical and post results.

So far so good though.

I'm having the same issue with a European 245c and Wii via component. Wii set to 480i or P and menu's jump but game is fine. Set to 576i(Pal) and menus are fine but screen goes blank in-game.

Did you ever get this issue fixed Vanders??

Update:

Still the same problem with 480i and 480p but strangely 576i has been working flawlessly for the last few days without any changes to my setup. Suits me, as all I wanted from the 245c with regard to the Wii was that it switched component even if it is 'Just' Pal interlaced. DSecent Pal de-interlacer in the Panny AE900 PJ so I am not losing out on PQ being 'stuck' with 576i.

As for the 245c itself. Other than the aforementioned little problem it has worked flawlessly and to my eyes has no negative impact on PQ.

Got the Joytech 240c off ebay the other day, hooked it up with Composite and it works flawlessly. Cables should be here tomorrow so I'll test out the S-Video and Optical and post results.

So far so good though.

Icedtea - do you have HD to check out the component video? I like the 240c but it has gotten flaky - ghosting at rez over 480p and intermittent jumping/rolling screen problem over s-video (caused by white flashes or sometimes channel changing).

I'd probably even buy a replacement if I was sure it would work properly.

I sure love this forum, but sometimes I have difficulty processing all the information that everyone is kind enough to provide.

The Joytech 240C seems great, but it sounds like 480 over component is problematic. True? Do we know if the 540C alleviates that problem? 480i/p over component is pretty important for me, since my DVD player, PS2, Xbox and Wii will all use that.

Hmm... On the other hand, that's just 4 devices with component output, and I guess I could get one of those higher quality component cable switches. Leave the S-video sources for another box to switch. Would you recommend that route?

Icedtea - do you have HD to check out the component video? I like the 240c but it has gotten flaky - ghosting at rez over 480p and intermittent jumping/rolling screen problem over s-video (caused by white flashes or sometimes channel changing).

I'd probably even buy a replacement if I was sure it would work properly.

I can check it at my brother in law's house this weekend (he's got a sony 720p lcd hdtv) and get back to you.

I ended up getting the Psyclone and it's working out for me so far. I have a DirecTivo->DVDO Iscan @ 480p, an HTPC @ 720p, and an XBox 360 @ 720p connected to it. There seems to be no noticeable picture degradation. I did have a problem with the HTPC syncing up with my TV at first - the image didn't fill the whole screen. I fixed it by running the NVidia Control Panel and configuring it to output 720p again. Not sure why it didn't sync initially but it's all good now. If I had a complaint, it would be the flimsy remote but that can be fixed by using a universal remote.

I've noticed problems with my Joytech AV Control Center 245C :(
As well as with dvd's and with videogames at certain times I'll get scrambled horizontal lines and sometimes even the screen drops out and turns to 'the' blue screen.
Anyone know what's going on?

Why would Joytec put a network HUB in their 540C A/V switch instead of a network SWITCH? The price difference could not be that much! Don't get me wrong, I think putting a networking piece in the A/V switch is a great idea, but why not go with a switch? They made it halfway to a good idea at least...

I also really need a switch like this. I need at least 7 (8 would be even better) inputs, at least four with component video and three with optical audio, and remote control input. The only two options I've found that even come close are the Pelican System Selector Pro 2.0 -- which doesn't have enough inputs -- and the Joytech 245C, which doesn't seem to be sold ANYWHERE in the US.

Anyone know of another option, or where I could find the 245C? Or alternately, anyone who could potentially help fix the problem that's arisen with my 240C?

I need a setup so that I can in addition to switching between multiple input, should also be able to select whether I output to TV or Projector.

Edit: Found info on this on page 5 of this thread. Thanks...

Hey guys...

After a long while of searching and reading this forum, I got the Psyclone PSC01. Everything on it works great, and I even have the 2nd version (with the input buttons!) but one thing I can't seem to get working is the Ethernet.

I have a regular Ethernet cable going to the selector and from the selector to the Xbox 360 and it can't get an signal. Do I need to use a crossover cable when connecting to the selector?

Boy that Joytech Xbox 360 Control Center is impossible to find! At the moment only Walmart has it in stock but its 100 buckaroos. Buy com has it for cheaper but its out of stock at the moment. I was pretty close to getting a Joytech 240c or Psyclone used on ebay but most of them disappeared and I'm a bit wary of used stuff that doesn't say is fully tested.

I noticed the Joytech AV Control Center v2 at Walmart. Thats pretty much the same as the 240c right?? I think this was mentioned earlier in this thread. Not sure if I should wait until the Xbox Control Center is back in stock at buy com or just buy the Joytech (whether used at ebay or that v2 model).

Well I am happy with my 360 Control Center (Joytech 540C). I would either wait for it or just get it at Walmart....................

Boy that Joytech Xbox 360 Control Center is impossible to find! At the moment only Walmart has it in stock but its 100 buckaroos. Buy com has it for cheaper but its out of stock at the moment. I was pretty close to getting a Joytech 240c or Psyclone used on ebay but most of them disappeared and I'm a bit wary of used stuff that doesn't say is fully tested.

I noticed the Joytech AV Control Center v2 at Walmart. Thats pretty much the same as the 240c right?? I think this was mentioned earlier in this thread. Not sure if I should wait until the Xbox Control Center is back in stock at buy com or just buy the Joytech (whether used at ebay or that v2 model).

Well according to Joytech's website, the v2 doesn't have component video. But according to Walmart's website, it does. So next time you're around there, if you'd check the box and see what the truth is, I'd appreciate it!

Well according to Joytech's website, the v2 doesn't have component video. But according to Walmart's website, it does. So next time you're around there, if you'd check the box and see what the truth is, I'd appreciate it!

The AV Control Center 2 doesn't have component inputs, they are composite. Just go to the Joytech site and take a look at the rear input images or even the PDF manual, no component.

I have the Psyclone PSC01 and have to return it, any bright video source eg. explosions, lots of sunlight etc... will cause the unit to drop the video signal, happens on my Wii, PS3, 360 and DVD player, hooked up straight to TV is fine.

i have been thru two joytech 240c units. one was from ebay, and one was brand new from best buy.

both had a problem with the nintendo wii at 480p. same as everyone says, bright pictures or white casued bad tearing at the top of the screen.

check out this thread for pictures:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=778380

i tried every possible port/cable combination... including only having one cable connected to the projector, and then the wii cable... no audio, no network etc...

these units are crap. :(

Guess the one I got off ebay was too good to be true. I am only trying to use it as an optical audio switch, but that has been problematic. It does not like the optical audio my TiVo Series 3 puts out for whatever reason. That input always goes down. I moved it to input 4 (from input 2), and it started working fine for a while before this happened again. I then noticed that all of the inputs work fine if my Xbox 360 (which is on input 1) is on. Turn it off, and all hell breaks loose. This is just weird. I am going to email the seller tomorrow morning.

I have no significant problems with the Joytech 240c at 480p. At 720p and less so at 1080i, it ghosts quite a bit :(

The screen also rolls quite a bit when the screen flashes bright white...this at 480i over s-video.

It didn't used to do this. It has degraded since I bought it. I'm still waiting to hear more reports on the Pscylone units.

The AV Control Center 2 doesn't have component inputs, they are composite. Just go to the Joytech site and take a look at the rear input images or even the PDF manual, no component.

I have the Psyclone PSC01 and have to return it, any bright video source eg. explosions, lots of sunlight etc... will cause the unit to drop the video signal, happens on my Wii, PS3, 360 and DVD player, hooked up straight to TV is fine.

Yeah, I knew that it showed the composite-only connections on the Joytech site. It's Wal-mart that threw it into doubt by listing component video inputs for the unit on their website.

Ah well, I just bought a replacement 240C off eBay...hopefully this one doesn't have the same problem. If it does, I really won't know what to do. I require at least 7 inputs, and the options for this are so limited it's not even funny. I'm dumbfounded by the fact that there are almost no alternatives on the market for such a product.

i also noticed that the joytech 240c i bought from best buy had a sticker on the bottom that said v2.0, and the one from ebay did not.

so we can rule out that they fixed the 480p problem in a new version...

Does anyone here have the Joytech Xbox360 (540C) switcher and a PS3? I've been experiencing the signal dropout during very bright images on my PS3 with this unit. I know a very easy way to get it to happen everytime and I'm checking if other people have this same problem.

It's very easy to duplicate. All you gotta do is go to the PS3 date/time settings and change the time to anywhere around 1pm. For those of you not familiar with the PS3, the background color changes depending on what time of day it is... at night, it's dark... during the day, it's bright. Just so happens that around 1pm the background is bright enough to cause the unit to drop the signal. I hooked my PS3 directly to my tv and no problem at all. You must be in 720p or 1080i to get this to happen. In 480p mode, it doesn't happen.

It sucks that this unit has this problem. I like the fact that is provides a free optical out for my xbox360.

At first the 360 port is set to run S-V which is S-Video out instead of YUV which is for Component, This made the image Black and White, so I had to change that in the setting, No big deal, but YUV is the default, mine just wasn't.
Actually, despite saying YUV is the default in the manual, mine was also selected to S-V which displays in black and white and causes the 360 to refuse to choose any hi-definition modes.

I apologize for taking so long to finish up this mini review, my XBox 360 arrived late and then died after only a few hours of play. After hassling with warranty/returns it took awhile to get another working one and by that time I was on vacation. To top it off I had the same problem above but didn't check the setting because the manual stated YUV was default and indicated that if it was set wrong I wouldn't get a picture at all. The manual was wrong.

I wanted to wait for more than an automatic response from Joytech tech support before writing. I did get a very rote response with a series of questions asking for particulars, but most of them seemed inappropriate given the detailled email I originally sent them. However, after reading Klunkdm's post above I checked the settings and it fixed the problem. (Thank you, Klunkdm!) In the meantime I had my XBOX 360 plugged into another input, using the microsoft supplied HD component cables which worked fine, including the bright white opening screen (which may be pertinent to the question above about the PS3). Unfortunately, that spot I was hoping to save for a Wii when they are more commonly available. Fortunately, now it is open again!

All in all, no picture corruption issues, no audio issues from any input. I'm very happy with the way it works, but I am definitely a little frustrated waiting for their tech support. Given the apparent error in the manual or frequency of units being selected to the wrong setting, I'm beginning to think they must be innundated with tech support calls. Perhaps they are trying to duplicate the issue?

Anyhow, 8/10 on the selector, 5/10 on the tech support (going down daily, but an accurate response in the next week will boost it back to the 6-7 range). What are your thoughts, it would be nice to let them know there is a solution, but it would also be informative to see if and how long it takes them to respond back with an answer... Eh, I'm a nice guy, guess I'll write that email tomorrow.

I picked up a Psyclone cheap on ebay as I'm not willing to chance a Joytech unit again. Will report back with results.

steller2k,
which joytech email address did you send your email to? I sent one to "joytech@europesupport" which is the email specified on their website. i havent received a response yet... not even an automated one.

I received my Joytech 540c (xbox 360 style) today from Walmart. It was backordered for a week.

So far all seems good. At first I ran into two problems, one the setting was wrong on the 1st video port - it was putting out s-video. And then 2nd after fixing that I still felt the included special xbox 360 cable made my xbox output look a little darker than normal. So for now I have gone back to using the normal xbox 360 component cable hooked into input 4.

Other than that all seems to look as good as it did before, and the ethernet hub has been tested and works.

After sitting 1 ft away from my tv to really check it out, I want to edit my review to say that I am seeing a very small amount of picture interference. In dark scenes on my cable dvrs and also xbox if I pause it I can usually find a very slightly horizontal bar and also a vertical bar moving across the screen.

Now I have to admit behind my tv set is a rats nest of all kinds of power supplies, some on a ups, some not, and also a mix of component cables, some unshielded, so this could be a problem of my setup. At any rate, from my normal viewing distance I've checked and these flaws are so slight that I can't see them at all, so I'm keep this device. Probably in the future I'll want an HDMI switcher instead, especially if the xbox gets an HDMI port in the future.

Ryguy.

Yup, I have a PS3 and have the same problem, on bright scenes my Joytech 540C drops the signal, damn these video selectors, this is exactly the same reason I just returned my Psyclone PSC01, it kept dropping the signal too.
I also have the Wii and the Xbox360, I haven't tested the 360 much but the Wii is unplayable because the main menu is all white and very bright, as soon as you turn the Wii on the video selector drops the signal, just great, don't companies test these damn units before mass producing them? Straight to TV works fine.
I e-mailed Psyclone about this issue before sending the unit back and never got a response, I'll try e-mailing Joytech and see what they say, I guess this unit will end up going back as well, sigh.... and I just spent $200 on component and optical cables as well.

Ryguy.

Yup, I have a PS3 and have the same problem, on bright scenes my Joytech 540C drops the signal, damn these video selectors, this is exactly the same reason I just returned my Psyclone PSC01, it kept dropping the signal too.
I also have the Wii and the Xbox360, I haven't tested the 360 much but the Wii is unplayable because the main menu is all white and very bright, as soon as you turn the Wii on the video selector drops the signal, just great, don't companies test these damn units before mass producing them? Straight to TV works fine.
I e-mailed Psyclone about this issue before sending the unit back and never got a response, I'll try e-mailing Joytech and see what they say, I guess this unit will end up going back as well, sigh.... and I just spent $200 on component and optical cables as well.

i only got the problem on my ps3 when i set the resolution to 720p or 1080i. when it was set to 480p, it worked fine. and so far my wii appears to be working fine as well... i'm guessing because the max resolution it can do is 480p. that's weird that your wii isnt working at all. i have my xbox360 hooked in directly via input1 and so far i haven't experienced any dropped signals.

i've decided for now to keep the box. it's a convenient switcher for my 3 systems. it also has the network ports for my 3 systems and it provides an optical out for the xbox360. to solve the ps3 dropped signal problem, i just have the video hooked directly to my tv and use the joytech for sound. this box will have to do for now until i upgrade my receiver later this year.

So far i've went through 2 psyclone PS01s and a joytech 245. No luck inputting a Dish 622 DVR and xbox 360. Neither will handle the 622 DVR in HD, keeps dropping the signal. The problem is at commericals or white / bright backgrounds. I have got a manual push button passive switcher that i was told could handel the HD 1080i signal, haven't got it hooked up yet. Has anyone had any experience with this one?
http://www.impactacoustics.com/product.asp?cat%5Fid=1002&sku=40324&engine=celebros&keyword=

I got the Psychlone switcher yesterday, hooked it up an hour ago and holy cripes what a piece of shiat this hunk of junk is. Immediately i noticed several purpleish lines creeping up my screen on all inputs...xbox360, ps2, and cable box. Avoid this piece of trash like the plague. Im going to try that joytech 240c next and if that doesnt work, ill just have to fork over some $$ for a reciever. Meh.

UPDATE: just got back from the store, returned Psychlone and picked up the Joytech 240C to try that one. ITS EVEN WORSE THAN THE PSYCHLONE. On all of my inputs, it looked like I was watching the screen through a wet paper towel. I guess I should have expected this. You pay a cheap sh*t price, you get a cheap piece of sh*t. Avoid both of these jokes of a switch like the freakin' plague.

This post was made awhile ago, but it pretty much describes my situation. It does not seem to be the switch's fault. I have isolated this problem to my hd dvr (TW) cable box SA8300, the interference goes away when it is disconnected from any device that the switch is connected to (tv, receiver) or when the cable signal is lost. It does not neccessarily need to be connected to the switch for this to happen, nor does it matter which output (component, hdmi, coax audio - not optical audio though). Research is showing me that it could be power differences (AC vs DC) between the SA 8300 and the Psyclone PSC01 and could possibly be remedied with a DC Blocker like the Audio Authority 1182 DC Blocker (google it for the store website). If anyone knows anything about this, please reply, I would like to be sure that this item might fix my situation. If someone knows if this is not the problem, please let me know. Thanks.

I picked up the Psyclone at Best Buy this weekend when I bought my Xbox 360. I too was seeing the horizontal scrolling line and distortion on all components I had plugged into the unit. I was about to take it back to Best Buy for a refund. But I took a look at the manual and realized I had messed up on my component video connections. I wrongly assumed the bottom three inputs for each device on the Psyclone were the component video Y, B and R inputs. The first two inputs on the bottom row are component R and B. The rightmost bottom input is one of the analog audio inputs. Component Y is the leftmost input on the top row. When I first hooked up my dvd recorder, xbox 360 and Roku HD1000 to the Psyclone I had the component Y for each plugged into the analog audio jacks. No wonder I was seeing interference! Once I had everything correctly hooked up the horizontal scrolling lines and distortion went away.


This indivdual seems to have corrected his scrolling lines problem as stated above... hope this helps!

This indivdual seems to have corrected his scrolling lines problem as stated above... hope this helps!

I wish a simple mistake like that was the problem, but it appears all of my cables are plugged in properly. Also, the problem goes away when the cablebox (SA 8300) is disconnected so it appears that it's just a strange conflict between it and the switch.

Does anyone have any problems to report getting a 720p or 480p signal from the Joytech AV Control Center?

Does anyone here have the Joytech Xbox360 (540C) switcher and a PS3? I've been experiencing the signal dropout during very bright images on my PS3 with this unit. I know a very easy way to get it to happen everytime and I'm checking if other people have this same problem.

It's very easy to duplicate. All you gotta do is go to the PS3 date/time settings and change the time to anywhere around 1pm. For those of you not familiar with the PS3, the background color changes depending on what time of day it is... at night, it's dark... during the day, it's bright. Just so happens that around 1pm the background is bright enough to cause the unit to drop the signal. I hooked my PS3 directly to my tv and no problem at all. You must be in 720p or 1080i to get this to happen. In 480p mode, it doesn't happen.

It sucks that this unit has this problem. I like the fact that is provides a free optical out for my xbox360.

Yes, I also had this problem. Sucks. I used it as an excuse to rewire my system, and run the PS3 into my Sony Plasma using the HDMI connector instead of my cable box, which I switched to the joytech via component. Fixed my problem, and the cable box signal never drops out.

Furious

After trying different a/v switches with my VIP622 and xbox 360, I finally went to a manual push button switch. It works just fine. I wanted a remote controlled box so I could put the input switch in the remote macro. Since that was not going so well, I figured I have to be at the xbox to put in and take out games so I might as well hit the switch while I was there.

I picked this box up at a Gamestop store for under $20 and works fine: http://www.gamestop.com/product.asp?product%5Fid=801888

It also has ethernet connections, that I have not yet tried.

I purchased 2 units from Walmart, The 1st one the screen was broken, the 2nd I could not get it to change the to the y/u (component) output, so B/W is what I was getting, so I gave up and went back to the gamestop unit I had for 3-4 years except mine is under the pelican name, and it works fine in 1080i, and do not let anyone tell you it will not work, if you were to open it (the gamestop unit I don't advise, it is very hard to get it back together) there are NO electronic parts, just a circuit board.

Ratings
Box / 10
Manual / 10 (really nice Manual)
540c / 1 (Looks nice)

Well, so far my Pscylone from ebay has eliminated the ghosting problem the Joytech 240c had at 720p/1080i. I did a little quick temporary re-wiring and it seemed to clear it up.

I put everything back to the way it was as changing from the 7-port Joytech to the 4-port Psyclone is likely a job of at least an hour or two - Onkyo Receiver, Dish DVR, Zenith DVB-318 DVD xbox, Wii, ps2, SNES, NES, etc takes a while to wire up/reroute cables - and I can't tackle it with my 1 yr old running around the house.

Maybe this weekend. Looks good so far, though.

Well, I just picked up a Joytech 240c from ebay for 28 bucks, so we'll see how it goes. I don't have any gaming systems, so hopefully I won't run into the problems that have been reported here.

After further consideration, I decided I can't stomach the very minor moving line, even though it's impossible to see from my viewing spot in 95% of video. The problem is 5% of the time I can notice it.

So I'm returning the joytech 540c to walmart. I looked around and found I can get a 5 port HDMI switch from Monoprice for a similar amount of money, and I have an old 4 port ethernet switch around here somewhere that can handle the networking needs of my 360 & PS3. I feel better about using HDMI switchers since it's a digital system - either it will work perfect, or I will get obvious sparklies in the output, but there will definitely not be any of these analog artifacts and other issues with component switchers.

steller2k,
which joytech email address did you send your email to? I sent one to "joytech@europesupport" which is the email specified on their website. i havent received a response yet... not even an automated one.

That is the one I emailed, and the only one I know of. The original reply took quite awhile and unfortunately, I have yet to receive another reply from them. Additionally, now that I finally have everything hooked up the way I want, I am experiencing the drop out on a bright white screen from the PS2... (seen on FFXII when teleporting and during initial screen). I'm debating if is just one too many cables/connections between the console and the tv. Currently it goes from the PS2 -> JoyTech -> Amp -> TV. I'll try to skip the amp and go straight from the Switch to the TV for the video signal. I wanted to use the amp's ability to upscale composite and s-video inputs to the component cables. However, that was for my SNES which is finally going to be relegated to another room. I also wanted to use the amp's onscreen menu to adjust my sound levels on a new set of speakers I picked up which is now done.

Hmmm... I also picked up a new TV, so maybe that is causing the drop out? My old Sony CRT (1080i) didn't seem to be dropping out on bright screens, but my new Samsung DLP is. The rest of you experiencing this problem: what kind of displays are you using? Could there be a common problem there?

Ive had the Joytech 240c unit for about 20 days now.
At first I had no problems, then I started to notice the problem on HDTV.
The problem in my case is the Y signal, the sync would cause my Sony tv to reset (i beleive due to the sync signal), but only on very white scenes, or flashes.
Checked this by connecting the Y directly to tv, and leaving Pb/Pr thru the switcher - No problem exhibited (and Pb/Pr dont have a sync, so you dont see a problem in the video)

If I changed the way the cables where wired, instead of Y to Y and Pr to Pr and PB to PB...I connected the Y signal thru the Pr jacks.
This reduced the problem significantly, but i still found occurances of the problem.

After investigating, I found this switcher uses a HEF4051 to switch the signals, a cheap 30 cent IC. (Circuit used in the switcher is available on the net)
The sync signal is most likely the cause of all the weird video problems exhibited by users here.

Well I went about replacing the IC that switches Y to a better, proper, IC. A max 4315 (I used a 4314 while the 4315 arrives - same thing, just 4 ports instead of 8)
After some more work, and research, it was installed.

Results: No more problems on Y, that is no problem at all. :)

Note: This fix also works for any other switcher based on the 4051 ic's.

If others want to give this a try, let me know and Ill post some sort of guide or instructions.
(Mind you installation is pretty straight forward - match the pins, install a proper v reg and remove some parts from the switcher pcb)

I'd love to see the directions, just in case I experience a problem with my unit.

That is the one I emailed, and the only one I know of. The original reply took quite awhile and unfortunately, I have yet to receive another reply from them. Additionally, now that I finally have everything hooked up the way I want, I am experiencing the drop out on a bright white screen from the PS2... (seen on FFXII when teleporting and during initial screen). I'm debating if is just one too many cables/connections between the console and the tv. Currently it goes from the PS2 -> JoyTech -> Amp -> TV. I'll try to skip the amp and go straight from the Switch to the TV for the video signal. I wanted to use the amp's ability to upscale composite and s-video inputs to the component cables. However, that was for my SNES which is finally going to be relegated to another room. I also wanted to use the amp's onscreen menu to adjust my sound levels on a new set of speakers I picked up which is now done.

Hmmm... I also picked up a new TV, so maybe that is causing the drop out? My old Sony CRT (1080i) didn't seem to be dropping out on bright screens, but my new Samsung DLP is. The rest of you experiencing this problem: what kind of displays are you using? Could there be a common problem there?

i'm using a 3-year-old Sony wega lcd-rp (dont remember the model #). At first I thought the signal drop was tv related and maybe my tv is old and cant handle the "bandwidth" (problem only happened when i set the ps3 to 720p or 1080i). Then I hooked the playstation directly to the tv and everything works fine... definitely cant be the tv in that case.

But so far I haven't had any problems with my Wii or xbox360. Even with the xbox set to 720p, I haven't been able to get the signal to drop. Could be I haven't found anything "bright enough" yet but I'm willing to tolerate this switcher for now as long as I dont have any problems with these 2 systems.

I am disappointed that after 2 weeks joytech still hasn't responded to my email.

A quick way to determine if the problem is inded the Y signal do this.

Connect your source to any of the inputs, connect the output to the TV. (As you normally would).

A problem should be visible.

Now, disconnect ONLY the 'Y' signal from the input and disconnect the output 'Y' cable as well, then using a RCA joiner connect the two directly.
(That is, Y is connected directly from source to TV, and Pb/Pr are connected thru the switch)

If the problem has now dissapeared, then replacing the IC used to switch 'Y' will fix your problem.

If others want to give this a try, let me know and Ill post some sort of guide or instructions.
(Mind you installation is pretty straight forward - match the pins, install a proper v reg and remove some parts from the switcher pcb)

I had the joytech 240 for over a year, always on s-video (had a crap TV) upgraded to a Sony KF42E200A, so I tried the component hookup. Started to gt dropouts, and also noticed it happening when a bright image came on the screen.

I tried with the Y connected directly to the TV and wow, is appears to be fine, no drop outs. (only did this late last night so didn't watch too much TV).

I have emailed JoyTech many times with no answer to see if the 245 fixed the problem, but I am going to give your idea a go.

So a simple guide would be great, when you have the time.
Thx a lot.

edit: where did you get the IC 4315 from?

Joytech doesnt reply to any emails. Im sure they are aware of the problem (specially since this problem has been widely known in the original circuit long before Joytech's 240c came around)
Im surprised that after several years, companies have not bothered to do such a simple improvement on their design, spend an extra $2 for a better IC and all the problems would be solved. And that nobody else has stepped up to the plate to figure out what was wrong.

The fix, is not as simple as it seems if you arent capable soldering person.

So as to not to 'hijack' this thread, ill start a new one.
Under the AV/Control and Automation's 'Tweaks and Do-it-yourself forum'
Here-> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9576433

The fix, is not as simple as it seems if you arent capable soldering person.

Wow, you have me sold. Maybe Joytech should hire you to do their circuit board design. Unfortunately, soldering has never been my forte. I'm not feeling brave enough to venture into the wild and wacky world of warranty invalidation just yet... I'd rather return the blinking thing. But it sure would have been nice if they had just "spend an extra $2."

Thanks for your input, I'll have to mull over my decision now... is there any other location that would have a high enough quality IC to do the switching - say the analog audio ports? (not likely but I'll cross my fingers.)

Edit: closer review of your other topic reveals the answer to my question to be, "No."

Thanks for your input, I'll have to mull over my decision now... is there any other location that would have a high enough quality IC to do the switching - say the analog audio ports? (not likely but I'll cross my fingers.)


No they dont. They use the same IC for video and audio.
(I found on my unit, that the RED/Pr input/output was less suceptible to the problem. It may be the case in others.)

The soldering isnt as simple, especially removing the existing IC.

NicholasG,

Thanks for your input, provided I can locate my invoice for the Joytech I'll take it back to WalMart - I can return in store despite buying online.

I found the PS2 just doesn't look very good on the big screen, so I'll move it into my room with my "old" TV. I've also found that the XBOX 360 does a better job of upsampling DVDs than the DVD Player, so that opens up another input that I needed. Which leaves me with an extra component input on the Big Screen for the Wii* (if I ever find one in stock). Anything I buy in the future is likely to have HDMI, be it an upconverting DVD player, HD DVD, or PS3/Blu-Ray Player. So with the hassle of dealing with soldering the Joytech 540C just made itself unworthwhile.

* Note - Yes, I understand the Wii will look similar to the PS2, BUT I want it for group activities where as the PS2 is just my personal (FF XII) system anymore. :D

Well, I rewired my entire A/v cabinet today with the Psyclone. It worked great, without the ghosting of the Joytec 240c - BUT...

I get the out of sync/signal drops problem on bright white screens with our new Olevia 337h 37" LCD. ARGH!!! The Wii was so bad at times on the VGA-component input that it dropped every few seconds - it was a bit better on the dedicated component input.

I had to re-wire the Joytech back in. It may ghost but at least it's not causing screen dropouts.

I'm so frustrated with this. I swear I'd even buy a new $500+ receiver to take care of the problem if they made one with enough component inputs.

There's a few options like the audio authority switcher, zektor, videostorm, etc but none of them have label-able outputs which are very useful for our setup. It's hard enough to keep track of which input has the Saturn &Xbox and which one has the NES &PS2, etc. "Which input is it on the receiver, and which one on the switch?" is getting a bit complicated.

I wish there was a way to tame the output of the Psyclone so it wouldn't go OOS. I figure it's going beyond tolerance boundries on white. Infocus X1s had a problem with this - out of tolerance brightness cauing dropouts - which Infocus was nice enough to fix with a firmware update.

I guess for now I'm just going to do do a couple of HDMI/DVI runs to the projector and try to bypass the Joytec for hi-def sources, leave it running the PS2/Wii/etc. But I'll be adding an xbox360 eventually and more devices...

If it doesnt break your warranty, mind taking a peek inside that Psyclone ?
See what chips theyr using, be interested if it was 4051's.

I found it almost impossible to find anything with at least 4 component inputs that didnt cost $400+ and in a weird homemade box (oh and that was available in canada).

A cheap way of lowering the brightness is to fake a higher/lower impedence wire, by using a resistor between the soruce and destination, Y (green) in this case. You can only bring it up in resistance (darker).

If it doesnt break your warranty, mind taking a peek inside that Psyclone ?
See what chips theyr using, be interested if it was 4051's.

I found it almost impossible to find anything with at least 4 component inputs that didnt cost $400+ and in a weird homemade box (oh and that was available in canada).

A cheap way of lowering the brightness is to fake a higher/lower impedence wire, by using a resistor between the soruce and destination, Y (green) in this case. You can only bring it up in resistance (darker).

No problem, I got it cheap on ebay anyway. Working fulltime/half time school & wife in grad school makes for not a lot of time though. If I get a chance I'll take a screwdriver to it and take some pics.

I have the 540C and I must say it is not that great at all.

DVDs (480p) distort like hell. It seems the xbox (xbmc works fine)
and HDTV @ 720p appears to be ok. I have yet to try the wii as I do not have component for it yet.

I am this clost to buying this when it comes out. Audio Authority 1154B

Its expensive I know but I need something that will work. If anyone has any ideas I would appreciate your advice.

I have been offered to swap it for a Joytech 245C but im not sure if its the same chips etc.

Joe.

Well I've had some luck atm. I was going to do the mod on my 240 to see if that fixed my problem. I then got a email from a Joytech distributer and I have sent my unit in for a straight swap for a 245c.
I guess I will find out if that fixes the problem.
I hope it does.

Just stumbled upon something very interesting, further proves my findings.
(Was looking for the differences between the 240c and 245c)

http://www.joytech.net/download/pdf/AV_Control_Centre_1_2_240C_Tech_Spec.pdf

If you read, you will notice it only supports 12mhz bandwith on the video signals, specifically they states 'composite'.

HDTV at 720p and 1080i require 37mhz. So as you can see the 240c simply was not designed properly for HDTV signals.
(480p is 13.2mhz - so it barely even supports this)

I was advised the 245c was designed to handle 1080i and 1080p (I don't think so but I guess I will find out)
but I hope for me it can handle 720. I don't think they have updated their tech specs for the 245c.
If it doesn't work I guess I will have a look inside :)

Hey Glo8al

Let me know how you go with the 245C, I am probably going to swap my 540C for that.

Regards
Joe

Wow, so I guess I will keep with my current plan and only run DVDs through the changer. I am basically using it as a switcher for my megachangers, and since they are only 480p I guess that should work fine.

Whats the best manual switch out there? I dont have enough money for a self powered one, and I'm close to my TV anyway. I just need one that wont lose too much HD quality. Any suggestions or will the $20 gamestop one be sufficient?

Edit: Dup post DAMN CACHE!!
:P

Thanks to slampt, I have an idea of what chips are being used in the 540c.

They still use the HEF4051 chips, but only 2 and they are probably for analog audio.

Theyr using an array of 6 TS5V330 which are 2 Quad SPDT video switches (300mhz bandwith).
I dont know if these are being used to switch video, but most likely they are, in some chain (since theres 6 inputs, but these switches can only do 2x1).

From the specs, these shouldnt exhibit the problems of the 4051 for video, but it all depends on how theyr being used and if theyr properly being shielded.

Let you know more as I investigate.

TS5V330 is a 10 ohm passive switch. They would need to follow it with a high bandwidth amp in the box if they use that device.

TS5V330 is a 10 ohm passive switch. They would need to follow it with a high bandwidth amp in the box if they use that device.

From the looks of it, theyr not using much else to do switching (dont have a unit handy to trace out - going by pictures submitted)
Theyr cascading the TS5V330's in order to switch the video.
I would guess theyr not using an amp (as i cant find any other ic's related to video

They also have 1 UTC 4053 (equiv to 74HC4053) but Im unsure what this is used for.

Well, I guess you CAN use it without an amp. They will have a decent amount of DC loss and they aren't going to get the rated bandwidth.

Yeah the 540Cs aren't that good. I'm thinking about actually forking out for a Zekto HDS4.1

But they are so expensive (hopefully someone will figure out a mod for the 540c) *grin*

Joe

I cant come up with a simple fix for the 540 since theyr cascading the IC's used forswitching.

That is, its not a matter of replacing just 1 chip, but several, and possibly trace cutting and wires everywhere.

Thanks for the feedback videostorm, some insight into the TS5V330's, and why they still fail in this new setup.

Ohhh well no biggy, time to save for a more expensive unit (that will hopefully do the job)

Thanks alot for your help NicolasG.

Joe

The Zektor is a good box. They use a high quality relay. It is a passive box, but a well designed one.

My company also makes several models of switchers. Most of them use the max4028 ic for the people who are interested. They run from $160 to >$1000 depending on what you get. Definately not as cheap as Joytech, but we didn't cut corners on the internal electronics.

i just went through this hell myself.
used the joytech 540 and then the Psyclone unit from Best Buy.

Both units failed, the Joytech failed constantly when the HD resolution changed from either channel to channel changes or commercial to recording changes. It was completely useless.

The Psyclone failure is predictable. The Apple Computer commercial where they make fun of the MS PC is on a white background and the box will go nuts and never lock in on a resolution before the commercial is over. So any video with a white background will cause the unit to completely drop the picture. Annoying as hell.

Back to searching for something else.....

ANy suggestions - in the same $ range?

Well I tried the 245c last night and its going back for another 245c just in case the problem below was a problem with the unit I got.

I had no video dropouts like I was having with the 240c, BUT the colour was crap.
It had a horizontal band of translucent green moving through the image (like a sync problem). So a strip of about 3 or so inches had a green tint to it. You could see the green tint easily in blacks, greys and yellows images (was watching Coach carter on foxtel, and even the wife noticed the green). I tried 3 input ports and 3 different devices (MediaGate, DVD and Foxtel digital). During each test I plugged each device directly into my TV for 10+minutes (which looked fine, no colour problems) then into the Joytech. Each device had the same green tint horizontal band through the Joytech. I didn’t try s-video, only component.
So if the replacement still has the same problems, I'm not sure if someone can work out a "fix" for it or if I should just get my 240c back and do the chip replacement?

What do you think?

The Zektor is a good box. They use a high quality relay. It is a passive box, but a well designed one.

My company also makes several models of switchers. Most of them use the max4028 ic for the people who are interested. They run from $160 to >$1000 depending on what you get. Definately not as cheap as Joytech, but we didn't cut corners on the internal electronics.

I was looking at the CSM42, but don't understand why the optical inputs are at the front?
So then I looked at the CSW62 and using the Joytech just as the audio switcher, but that does make a mess and more room needed. Or the CRM62 but but the time it get downunder $$$

IF anyone with a 245c is willing to take a few snaps of the insides id be grateful.
(I suspect its the same as the 240c)

Ok Just a little update,

the 245C is made up with the same components as the 540C so I doubt this will fix my problem.
They have offered to swap the 540C for a 245C so I might give this a shot anyway.

Cheers
Joe

IF anyone with a 245c is willing to take a few snaps of the insides id be grateful.
(I suspect its the same as the 240c)

After looking at your photos, I couldn't match it up with the 245c. So might be the same chips with a different layout?
I will take some shots this weekend of the one I'm sending back.

I have the audio authority 1154A component switch, and i like it, but im having a big problem with it now:

I have 3 devices connected: xbox360 on ch.1, PS2 (slim) on ch.2, xbox on ch.3. They are all connected with Component video and both analog and optical audio.

The problem: It randomly switches to ch.2 for about a second, then back to whatever source is actually turned on. It even ignores the priority, and will switch from ch.1 in the middle of a game.

I thought it was something with the PS2, but its still doing it even after disconnecting all the ch.2 connections.

I checked the connections, and "reset" the box, but it is still doing it.

Is it a bum box, or is there something i can do to stop this? Its VERY annoying.
Thanks!

I am having a problem with the Joytech 240c and was wondering if this was common on all these boxes?

I have 2 dvd players hooked up to it, and neither of them up convert, but I am getting a very slow scan line on input number 2. Is this something to do with the box, or could it just be a cable problem?

Hey Guys,

OK this is the response from Joytech in regards to the 540C

"The issue sounds like he is having the same problem with his DVD playback as some users are having with the Wii, that is that at times the "Y" channel signal is quite strong. We are currently working on an adapter that will add a resistor to this channel's input and will be available to give out to any customers that are having this problem. I know this does not solve the immediate issue, but as soon as we are near completion on the adapter I will let you know and you can then inform any customer's that require this adapter."

They have offered to swap the 540C for a 245C what do you guys think I should do?

Regards
Joe

Wait for the adapter, if that doesn't fix it then try the swap. I love the 540c so far, but I haven't taken the time to really check out the picture to see if it degrades at all.

If their fix will be just a resistor, get ready to see much darker video video. Higher resistance on the cable will yield a darker image (not to mention it will then not match the impedence of the cable)

Ok then, well I decided to send it back to them. I emailed Take2 (distributor in AUS) for Joytech, they gave me an address and will swap it for the 245C, the guy I spoke to can't believe it only cost me $60 for the unit (I sent him my reciept) So if the 245C doesn't work I will have to save for a zektor.

Cheers
Joe

I have the audio authority 1154A component switch, and i like it, but im having a big problem with it now:

I think you posted this somewhere else too, and I responded, but here it is again, in case you missed it -

Sounds like you do have a problem with that switch. Give tech support a call at 1-800/322-8346, and we'll help you out.

Trent

Ok then, well I decided to send it back to them. I emailed Take2 (distributor in AUS) for Joytech, they gave me an address and will swap it for the 245C, the guy I spoke to can't believe it only cost me $60 for the unit (I sent him my reciept) So if the 245C doesn't work I will have to save for a zektor.

Cheers
Joe

I bout my 240c for $80cdn including tax.
The item was listed as 'PS2 AV Switch' in their computer so they sold it to me for that price at FutureShop (best buy still has them at $130)

I bought my 240c for 25+ shipping on ebay, and I will definetely be upgrading when funds are available. The scan lines are enough to drive me crazy.

Just stumbled upon something very interesting, further proves my findings.
(Was looking for the differences between the 240c and 245c)

http://www.joytech.net/download/pdf/AV_Control_Centre_1_2_240C_Tech_Spec.pdf

If you read, you will notice it only supports 12mhz bandwith on the video signals, specifically they states 'composite'.

HDTV at 720p and 1080i require 37mhz. So as you can see the 240c simply was not designed properly for HDTV signals.
(480p is 13.2mhz - so it barely even supports this)


Nicolas (or anyone for that matter) have you heard of or looked at Impact Acoustics 3-Play switch?
http://www.impactacoustics.com/product.asp?cat_id=1002&sku=40324

On this review here
http://www.bigpicturebigsound.com/impact-acoustics-component-switcher.shtml
it states that it has 50MHz of bandwidth. So theoretically this switch should cover all the bases, right?

I was considering purchasing a Zektor HDS4 from someone, it received great reviews from IGN when it came out, but then came upon this box.

Your thoughts, and everyone else's, will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Hi,

I got response from Joytech Australia and its crap, no help whatsoever, only marketing bs, like we are testing wide range of devices etc.., until we release there is new ones, so we can't guarantee anything. Seriously, wtf - 540c was designed for xbox 360, why picture quality is worse when using 540c? From what I can tell, they haven't tested this unit with 360 at all, you have to be blind not to see a difference between direct connection and Shitbox.

Other funny thing, I mentioned to him 2 issues - washed out colors and ghosting. As you see he didn't say anything at all about colors.

This is the response:

Thanks for your email and I am sorry to hear that you have not had a
reply from our technical support in Europe. As you have already read on
some of the forums there has been the odd case of ghosting/fuzzing with
other home AV configurations. Whilst we test as many set-ups as possible
before going to manufacture, as soon as we enter the market technology
has moved on and new AV products have entered the market that we have
been unable to test.

We are constantly reviewing our range to try and ensure the
compatibility of our products remains positive, at this moment in time I
have no real information, as well as what this may entail, but will
gladly keep you posted.

IF anyone with a 245c is willing to take a few snaps of the insides id be grateful.
(I suspect its the same as the 240c)

Sorry for the delay, I just got the second unit yesterday (didn't have time to take shots of the first unit.)
This unit was a little different, they put a black foam cover over the chips (see pic on left side were I pulled it off)
I still have no luck with the Joytech :(

Here is the main pic, if you need close ups of a section, just tell me and I'll do it.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s65/Glo8al/245c.jpg

Also here are the pics of the problem I'm having with this unit and the green band.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s65/Glo8al/DSCF1598.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s65/Glo8al/DSCF1596.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s65/Glo8al/DSCF1595.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s65/Glo8al/DSCF1594.jpg

I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND A JOYTECH for any component watching, unless you want to fix the 240 as previous post from NicolasG, or if he work out the 245c problem maybe a 245c fix.

Going to see if I can get a Zektor or similar.
this one looked good
http://www.zektor.com/hds41/index.html

Ok then, well I decided to send it back to them. I emailed Take2 (distributor in AUS) for Joytech, they gave me an address and will swap it for the 245C, the guy I spoke to can't believe it only cost me $60 for the unit (I sent him my reciept) So if the 245C doesn't work I will have to save for a zektor.

Cheers
Joe

I'm in the same boat slampt :( I guess you have been talking to the same person as me at Take2) I wounder how many 240s he has swapped?

I only got my second replacement yesterday, so I couldn't tell if it would work or not, but I'm guessing you will still have the same problem.

Hey Glo8al,

Yup talking to a dude at Take2,
They have shipped the 245C to me now. Should get it in a couple of days.
I will also take some high quality snaps for NicolasG. If the 245C doesn't give me any joy then I will definately look at getting a zektor HDS4.1 however they try and sting you $30USD for another PSU and shipping is a little expensive too...

Anyone stock these locally in AUS?

Cheers
Joe

Hey Glo8al,

If the 245C doesn't give me any joy then I will definately look at getting a zektor HDS4.1 however they try and sting you $30USD for another PSU and shipping is a little expensive too...

Anyone stock these locally in AUS?

Cheers
Joe
I know $30US just to have a 240Volt power instead of 110V :(
I haven't found any in OZ yet but have been looking.

Edit: I guess you don't need to get the power pack as you could get one here. Its only 9V and I think a 1amp would do. I wonder if they take off the $??US if you go no power pack?

I've sent a email to Zektor to see if there is a dealer in Australia.

There is another option which might be worth a try.
http://www.video-storm.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CSM42 (but optical inputs are at the front.)
or a http://www.video-storm.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CSW62 and use the 245C just as a sound switcher.
CSM42 is $249.99 US
CSW62 is $159.99 US
Don't know how much delivery is to Australia.

Sorry for the delay, I just got the second unit yesterday (didn't have time to take shots of the first unit.)
This unit was a little different, they put a black foam cover over the chips (see pic on left side were I pulled it off)
I still have no luck with the Joytech :(

Here is the main pic, if you need close ups of a section, just tell me and I'll do it.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s65/Glo8al/245c.jpg



Thanks for the picture. The 245C is NOT the same as the 240c.
I can quickly see they knew the problems of the 240 and thus resolved to fix them, but they failed.
The circuit used in the 245 is similar to that of the 540 (360 switcher) which again has the same problems. My guess would be they rushed the 245/540 at about the same time.

The problem with the 245 is the same as stated with the 540. They did use better ic's, the TE330, but they did not use a proper amp on the output, thus limitting the bandwith. (You can even see the location between the HEF4051's for the use of TE330's instead of the HEF4051's. They where expecting problems and had placed the pads for the different chips just in case - but the sound doesnt have problems so the chips didnt need switching)

The 245 wont be fixable in the way the 240 is, as the TE330's are daisy chained. (It may be fixable, but would be a much more complex fix)

A quick snaps of the reverse of the board would be handy.
And of the board on the bottom (the optical one).

A quick snaps of the reverse of the board would be handy.
And of the board on the bottom (the optical one).

I have given the unit to a friend to see if it works for him (I don't think it will). When I get it back I'll take a few more photos.

What would be causing the green band? not enough bandwidth?

Im not technically what would cause the green band, except that there is a synchronization problem. This is due to the synch signals passed on the 'Y' or Green signal not being passed properly.

The green band is likely caused by distortion or clipping of the sync tip. This will disrupt the clamp circuit in the display and generate a signal dependant level error (colored band).

Insufficient bandwidth looks like blurring or a very "soft" image. You lose the fine details and sharp edges are less defined.

Anybody have a comment or suggestion? I'd greatly appreciate any pointers.


Nicolas (or anyone for that matter) have you heard of or looked at Impact Acoustics 3-Play switch?
http://www.impactacoustics.com/product.asp?cat_id=1002&sku=40324

On this review here
http://www.bigpicturebigsound.com/impact-acoustics-component-switcher.shtml
it states that it has 50MHz of bandwidth. So theoretically this switch should cover all the bases, right?

I was considering purchasing a Zektor HDS4 from someone, it received great reviews from IGN when it came out, but then came upon this box.

Your thoughts, and everyone else's, will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Well depending on Take5 Australia and JotTech support, I might get a CSW62.
Depends if I can find a audio switcher with more than 4 optical in (have 5 devices that use optical).
Any one got any recommendations?
I with then look at the price of the component switch and optical switch and go from there.
Thx

If there are no 5+ optical switches I'll just use the joytech for optical only (has 4 in)

Glo8al,

We have the CRM62 which has 6 optical inputs. It is a more expensive rack mount unit though....
If it's in your budget it is a great product :)

mmm $750AU + del might be stretching the budget a little :)
Might go with the CSW62 next month (that should be heaps of time for Joytech support to get back to me, which I don't think they will)

Edit: Well after having a problem trying to buy the CSW62 (have sent email to support)
I had a look at http://www.hdtvsupply.com/vistcrcovima1.html
only $549.00US + $100 of gear (might not be able to get this for OS orders but will ask) looks better, can you get the DVI/HDMI switching addon at a later date and install it yourself?

Time to think about it, might get some money for the 245c off ebay.

Ok
I received the 245c this morning. PLugged it in and surprise surprise... Same problems as the 540C, ohh and one more thing, my normal xbox doesn't work through it, if I pull the blue from the component it works but as soon as i plug the blue back in it all stuffs up, cabling is correct...

Very strange, looks like I will be saving for zektor.

Regards
Joe

I just bought the CSW62 for now, using the 245c as the audio switch (only thing it looks like it can do).
What kind of TV do you have? a 720 or better?
I found my friend didn't seem to have a problem, but he is using a old CRT rearpro, with component.
So far it looks like (only tested 4 sets so far) the HD TVs have problems while non HD seem to be fine using the component.

I use a old crt atm haven't bothered with the projector,
my crt is an LG does 720p and 1080i (though i don't use 1080i)

I would rather have a unit that does it all. Ohhh well.

Joe

So is there really a reasonably priced 4x1 Component Switch with Audio?

Looking through here it looks like everyone's having issues with whatever they are using.

I'm looking to hook up a PS2/Xbox360/Wii/Cable box to my TV that only has 1 Component in :( (Samsung LNS3251D)

I don't know if it will help but I found this: AVS 4.1 - Component Video / Audio Switch from AVLinx (sorry I can't post links yet, just search Google for AVLinx, it will be the first result). It has four inputs, all with optical coax and analog, a remote (it can be used with universal remotes as well), an RS232 control port and a few other things (you can look them up on the site). Its MSRP is $239.

I stumbled upon this stuff because I ran out of AV inputs on my old TV. I was going to get a nice HD switch like the ones in this thread, but now reading that they all have issues (even if they can be fixed by changing ICs inside), I don't think I'll get one as I'm not that good at sodering and I don't need the HD inputs yet (I was thinking for when I finaly upgrade my TV, only the one in the living room is HD right now). I guess I'll get a regular composite/s-video switch. I wanted one with a remote, and all I've found is the AVS-41i from RF-Link. I can't find anything on it though and I've never heard of the brand so I don't know how good it is. If anyone happens to know anything about that would you mind telling me. I'm sorry if I went a bit off topic, I won't mention this again, so if anyone does know anything about this just PM me, I don't want to upset those active in this thread by getting off topic with my minor delima.

For $79, you could go with one of these:

Component Switch with Audio (http://www.showmecables.com/viewItem.asp?idProduct=4371)

Nevermind, I found some others. Thanks though. Found another component switch as well (again this one lacks standard composite and s-video inputs). Model is SW104HD from Cable Electronics. Hope the switches I told you about help.

Update: Found another: Audio Authority Model 1154A

"Insufficient bandwidth looks like blurring or a very "soft" image. You lose the fine details and sharp edges are less defined."

This would describe exactly what I noticed when watching The Departed HD DVD. That and some diagonal lines every once in awhile during bright scenes. Sucks the 540c doesn't work as I hoped it to.

For $79, you could go with one of these:

Component Switch with Audio (http://www.showmecables.com/viewItem.asp?idProduct=4371)


Hello incstlouis, I was wondering if you have actually used this switcher. I have asked a couple of times on here if anyone has, or at least heard of it, and what their opinions are but have had no luck with responses. If you have used it, how well does it work?

For $79, you could go with one of these:

Component Switch with Audio (http://www.showmecables.com/viewItem.asp?idProduct=4371)

This one looks really interesting. Amazon has 21 user reviews, all positive and you can get it for $54,- US! Problem is that shipping cost to Australia is whooping 119,- for no apparent reason.

Also, most other places are on backorder and can't find it on ebay either :(

Can someone from US can buy me one and ship to Australia ? :)

I use this one. It works ok, and has discreet codes but the only limitation for me is the 3-inputs.

I use this one. It works ok, and has discreet codes but the only limitation for me is the 3-inputs.

This is what I'm after - "it works ok". Joytech has more inputs, but PQ is terrible.

For me 3 inputs is enough as my tv has 2 component as well.

Now the only problem is where to buy this Impact Acoustic switch from :(

found impact acoustics unit on amazon for 39.99! Got all excited, processed to shipping page and bah! Item cannot be shipped to destination country..

Anyone have any idea why would they not ship it to Australia?

Sorry to hear. I bought mine from Amazon too. Send me your mailing info and I'll see how much DHL charges me to send to Australia (man I feel Hussey's pain).

Sorry to hear. I bought mine from Amazon too. Send me your mailing info and I'll see how much DHL charges me to send to Australia (man I feel Hussey's pain).

Thanks mate for your help! I just found that this unit is sold in Australia under different brand, so all is good!

Thanks again!

I am this clost to buying this when it comes out. Audio Authority 1154B
Joe.
It's out now :)

Trent

I went ahead and purchased the Impact Acoustics 3-Play from Buy.com and am happy to report that I see no distortion of any sort while playing my Wii, Gamecube or PS2. I don't have a 360 or any other hd source to check how it handles higher resolutions, but it is working with 480p just fine.

I know it only offers three inputs, but considering the problems others were reporting with other switchers handling 480p alone, I think its a good compromise. The 3-Play plus 12ft premium component cables from monoprice set me back a grand total of $67.

Neither the manual nor the box state any technical specs, but this review was helpful in making my decision. http://www.bigpicturebigsound.com/i...-switcher.shtml

Here is the link to the product's website, although you might want to get it from Buy.com for less. http://www.impactacoustics.com/prod...=1002&sku=40324

Hope this helps someone.

I originally purchased the Psyclone PSC01, and at first it seemed great. However, when I was watching my Sony HDR-HC3 camcorder, when there was a bright picture it made a horizontal line... and in extreme cases, even blanked out the picture entirely.

I then realized that I actually did have enough digital inputs in my receiver, so I didn't HAVE to have the switch do audio too. So I ordered the Video Storm CSW62. I didn't need two outputs, but it was just as cheap as the Audio Authority, plus it is an amplifier.

I just hooked it up today, and it's perfect. Even though I wasn't complaining about the picture on other component inputs, it has cleaned them up as well. Most noticeably on the Wii. So I do recommend this switch if you don't HAVE to mix audio and video.

Well I finally got the CSW62 installed and setup (been away).
I works without any problems at all. I use the 245c as a audio switch, and programed the CSW62 with the same remote as the 245c so input1=input1 etc.
I wish I had the spare cash for the bigger unit, but am happy with what I have now.
I will get the time to do more shots of the 245c (I hope).
I'm now trying to find IR extenders in Australia (hate being the ass end of the world).

I know you guys are all going to think I'm nuts but I bought this unit with very low expectations:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10112&cs_id=1011201&p_id=3027&seq=1&format=2&style=
I mean, hey, at $34 it was worth a try.

Amazingly enough, it works pretty well for ATSC OTA. It passes 720p surprisingly well. I do notice a very slight degradation but no one else did.

Also, the IR learning is nice. I had it learn the corresponding on commands for the input devices and it happily switches to that input when I turn on the devices. Pretty cool.

The only problem I found was that our ancient XBox (480p, I believe) loses some color but I think that might be the cable.

I just bought a 240C and hooked up my 360, Wii and PS2 to it. When playing my 360 in 1080i, I have no problems, I do however get a vertical green line on the left side of the screen about 2 1/2 to 3 inches. I've been reading through this thread and saw that others were having the same problem, but I didn't see if a solution was been found.

Is there any fix to this or do I have to suck it up? I was considering getting better quality component cables for the connection between the TV and the 240C would change anything, but unfortunately, it doesn't seem it will.

If you can soder this will help I found something that might help:

Sorry need to send this so I can finaly post urls.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=794201 There.

Here is a Multiswitch from Markertek (http://www.markertek.com/Product.asp?cat=ROUTERS&subcat=&prodClass=HDMISWITCH&search=0&off=0&baseItem=HDMI%2DSW1):

A low cost multiple input / multiple output switcher for every home theater. This switcher features HDMI (with Repeater), Component Video, VGA, Composite with Audio and a remote control. It has the highest quality circuitry for no signal loss at any point. Inputs include 3 HDMI, 3 Component Video (RCA), 3 VGA (HD15-F) and 3 Composite with Stereo Audio. Outputs include 1 HDMI, 1 Component Video, 1 VGA, 1 A/V outputs, for HDTV source switching using a single high definition display.


Sounds great but I wonder how is the PQ.

Here is a Multiswitch from Markertek (http://www.markertek.com/Product.asp?cat=ROUTERS&subcat=&prodClass=HDMISWITCH&search=0&off=0&baseItem=HDMI%2DSW1):

A low cost multiple input / multiple output switcher for every home theater. This switcher features HDMI (with Repeater), Component Video, VGA, Composite with Audio and a remote control. It has the highest quality circuitry for no signal loss at any point. Inputs include 3 HDMI, 3 Component Video (RCA), 3 VGA (HD15-F) and 3 Composite with Stereo Audio. Outputs include 1 HDMI, 1 Component Video, 1 VGA, 1 A/V outputs, for HDTV source switching using a single high definition display.


Sounds great but I wonder how is the PQ.

No optical though :( Nice selection of inputs otherwise, though.

Thanks mate for your help! I just found that this unit is sold in Australia under different brand, so all is good!

Thanks again!

what's the name in Aust and where can I get it? Thanks!

I ordered the Impact Acoustics 3-play from buy. My Joytech 240c died a few weeks ago.

The Psyclone PSC01 lost sync on white scenes with my Olevia LCD but worked with the projector. The Joytech worked but caused ghosting (visible on the projector, not so much on the 37")...until it died.

I'll report back how the 3-play works since I've had such bad luck with these things.

Report: the 3-play works great! Unlike the Joytech and the Pscylone, no visible PQ issues.

I found out though that my Joytech 240c just had a dead AC adapter. I subbed in an old NES AC adapter (1.3amps vs 900ma) and now it works great.

So I'm sticking with the Joytech. I need component for too many devices - I would have to have daisy chained 2 3-plays, not to mention run my SNES/NES/Saturn though receiver inputs.

If you just need a few more component inputs I recommend the Impact Acoustics 3-play. Best component switch for PQ so far.

I need component for too many devices - I would have to have daisy chained 2 3-plays

This is interesting. Has anyone tried it and has it worked daisy chained with no visible signal lost?

Wow... just spent a couple hours reading through this entire thread. I was close to ordering a Joytech or Pyclone at the start, I'm glad I kept reading!

I really only need another couple component inputs as long as I can continue to use the component selector in my amp?

I was thinking of using these (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10422&cs_id=1042205&p_id=2899&seq=1&format=2&style=) splitters. Would I have PQ issues if I did that? Could I just buy two of these and effectively double the component inputs in my setup? I'd put them before the switcher in my audio amp (it has two component inputs it switches to one output).

If not I'll probably go with either the Impact acoustics 3-play (http://www.showmecables.com/viewItem.asp?idProduct=4371) or Lenexpo (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10112&cs_id=1011201&p_id=3027&seq=1&format=2&style=). These seem like good options from what I've seen. Any advice on which of the two to pick? I don't think I need the audio switching really. My amp does that for me.

Thanks in advance!

Wow... just spent a couple hours reading through this entire thread. I was close to ordering a Joytech or Pyclone at the start, I'm glad I kept reading!

I really only need another couple component inputs as long as I can continue to use the component selector in my amp?

I was thinking of using these (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10422&cs_id=1042205&p_id=2899&seq=1&format=2&style=) splitters. Would I have PQ issues if I did that? Could I just buy two of these and effectively double the component inputs in my setup? I'd put them before the switcher in my audio amp (it has two component inputs it switches to one output).

If not I'll probably go with either the Impact acoustics 3-play (http://www.showmecables.com/viewItem.asp?idProduct=4371) or Lenexpo (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10112&cs_id=1011201&p_id=3027&seq=1&format=2&style=). These seem like good options from what I've seen. Any advice on which of the two to pick? I don't think I need the audio switching really. My amp does that for me.

Thanks in advance!


I have the 3-play and am happy with it. :D

I just saw those splitters say they are designed to split out from a device to two displays. I'd be wanting to use them the other way (two devices to one display). As long as I have them hooked up to my amp though wouldn't it help increase the PQ (amplify the signal) and clean up the PQ? I wouldn't plan on having any of the two device on at the same time. Maybe I'd run into cross talk or termination issues? (sorry I'm a little bit of a newbie when it comes to this type of thing). My amp is a Sony STR-DG510.

Oh one other things I've found sort of funny... this thread is pretty huge and a couple times some guy piped in about his Radio Shack component selector switch. No one every commented on it one way or the another on the quality or any issues. So I guess I'm curious about that one as well now.

Thanks again! :)

Oh one other things I've found sort of funny... this thread is pretty huge and a couple times some guy piped in about his Radio Shack component selector switch. No one every commented on it one way or the another on the quality or any issues. So I guess I'm curious about that one as well now.

Thanks again! :)

I have the now discontinued Component Switch from Radio Shack. It has 4 inputs and 2 outputs for component. For Audio it has Stereo and SPDIF 4 input and 2 output. It works great for me. No discernible loss in PQ. You can still find them in selected Radio Shack. I just purchased a 2nd one while I was in Greensboro, NC. I believe the price was $30.00.

I ran a cheap composite video switch from somewhere, it might have been radioshack. It worked perfectly since it was purely a mechanical switch (no remote, no digital anything).

IMO the 3-play worked perfectly. Go with that. Great switch for ~$30-$40 for purely component video switching.

If you need to split component video to 2 different devices I recommend the Inday HDDA-2. That's what I use - I found it recommended here.

http://www.inday.com/hdda2/hdda2.htm

I only need to switch component video, not audio, and I came across this...

http://www.hdtvsolutions.com/video_switch_box.htm

Think this guy is smoking crack, or would it be fairly safe since its purely mechanical?

I only need to switch component video, not audio, and I came across this...

http://www.hdtvsolutions.com/video_switch_box.htm

Think this guy is smoking crack, or would it be fairly safe since its purely mechanical?

Just a mechanical switcher. All it is doing is basically switching cables for you. Like I said, I used something similiar to that for quite some time. Should work perfectly. Good if you don't need any audio switching, remote control, etc.

Just a mechanical switcher. All it is doing is basically switching cables for you. Like I said, I used something similiar to that for quite some time. Should work perfectly. Good if you don't need any audio switching, remote control, etc.

Yea, my only concern was that the connections may be such low quality that they introduce noise or ghosting into the image. But I already have one, so no money lost to at least try it.

I know this has been asked many times on this thread before but I would like to know what you guys think of the pelican component selector 2.0. I live in Canada and I can't seem to find any (literally) component switches at stores so I had to resort to online retailers. I found the pelican selector 2.0 for $100 (with shipping and everything) at shop4tech (since they are one of those rare websites that ship to Canada) but I'm not too sure if its such a good idea. I need one badly but I don't want a nonfunctional device (since I read many bad and many good reviews) so what do you guys suggest. Is it a good choice or do you guys suggest something else for a similar price which is available in Canada. Thanks a lot, I appreciate it.

Are there any av switchers out there with VGA IN/OUT? I'm desperately looking for one with this configuration.

I only need to switch component video, not audio, and I came across this...

http://www.hdtvsolutions.com/video_switch_box.htm

Think this guy is smoking crack, or would it be fairly safe since its purely mechanical?

I use a similar switch for a 25ft component run with zero problems.

Are there any av switchers out there with VGA IN/OUT? I'm desperately looking for one with this configuration.

JUST VGA switching, or do you mean VGA and component? If the latter, that's going to be pretty hard to find/expensive. VGA switchers, though, are cheap.

Just a mechanical switcher. All it is doing is basically switching cables for you. Like I said, I used something similiar to that for quite some time. Should work perfectly. Good if you don't need any audio switching, remote control, etc.
Haha, awesome I never thought of something like that. On the cheap it would work out I suppose.

I'm pretty sure the component splitters would work for my needs since the amp should hopefully help clear up the signal if the splitter made it a little weak. I'd prefer the remote... why? Because what's the point of my Harmony remote if I have to get off my lazy arse evertime I want to switch devices! Hehe. ;)

Haha, awesome I never thought of something like that. On the cheap it would work out I suppose.

I'm pretty sure the component splitters would work for my needs since the amp should hopefully help clear up the signal if the splitter made it a little weak. I'd prefer the remote... why? Because what's the point of my Harmony remote if I have to get off my lazy arse evertime I want to switch devices! Hehe. ;)

Ditto

For me it is more a matter of my wife, stepmom (aka the babysitter), etc knowing how the hell to turn stuff on.

I saw the Psyclone PSC01 selector at Best Buy and grabbed it. But it seems to be an unmarked open-box item. The plasticwrap on the remote is obviously torn and retaped, and there's no user manual. Was the only one there so if it works I'd rather keep it, but is there stuff in the user manual that would be nice to know? Anyone have a pdf or something? I can't seem to find a company web site for support or downloads of such things on google. Any hints? Thanks.

Anyone know of a place that still has/sells the Joytech 240c?
Now that I can fix em, I want to get one for my other room, but its impossible to find. Best Buy still has the SKU on file, but no stock (and none to be ordered)

Nicolas, how do you fix them? PM me. I may have an extra one I can sell.

Yes. I posted about the fix earlier, a couple months back now. Its on AVS as well.

But Im looking for brand new, and local if possible. Not used, unless i cant find it new anywqwhere.

Do you mind providing a link to it? I am looking back but I have not found a step-by-step instructions. Was it step by step?

UPDATE: I think I found it --> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9576433

I take it, this one on buy.com is not the 240C

http://www.buy.com/prod/joytech-universal-av-control-center-2-black/q/loc/108/201975194.html

nor is this one from wallymart
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=4244418

The one on buy.com is not the 240c/245c, it is the european version (which came before the 240c). The 240c has 6 component inputs and 4 optical inputs. Normally, the AV control center 2 is not the 240c, but the one on the wallmart page IS the 240c (even though its labeled as av control center2).

To bad im in canada, walmart canada doesnt seem to carry it :-(

Rear of the 240: http://www.joytech.net/images/products/79-2-UEE_AV_Control_240V.jpg

seems quite confusing. The wallymart one says 7 inputs. Is the description there correct?

i think the wallmart one is correct. as i have yet to see a av control center 2 thats silver.

Have there been any updates in the Joytech AV Control Center 245C?
I wonder if I should try it again, or that I will remain having the problems like before (screen scrambling/falling out).

updates in what way?

Updates that fix the problems with component video.

well joytech never updated the procduct itself, they did comee out with a new model (for the xbox 360) and supposedly they mentioned something about an addon external piece to fix the issues, but i never heard any more of it.

the only real fix is to replace the 'y' mux chip for a better one.

I wonder what it would take to build a high quality switch box? I think I have the basics down, the only thing would be how do I incorporate the TOSLINK connectors and where would I get them? I've got a little free time so I think that this is something I might like to try out...

Yeah Ive had that idea for many months, even years. Just never really saw a means of distributing it. Otherwise Id have all the skills nessesary, and fabrication means.

When its modularized it makes things very easy.

If you are truly interested in such a project, even just as a hobby DIY. Start another thread and Ill add some comments and ideas. Might be fun.

Hi everyone. I just spent the last couple hours reading this entire thread after experiencing the well-known screen-distorting/dropping issue with bright images and the Psyclone switcher.

I bought the Psyclone months ago and only had the problem occasionally with my Wii (and strangely not at all with my 360), but once I bought my PS3 last week and ran it through the Psyclone, the problem became unbearable; the Psyclone would distort or drop the image entirely at the slightest hint of a bright image running in 1080i (it would not happen running in 480p, of course). None of these problems exist when I wire my PS3 directly into my TV, which unfortunately only has one set of component outs.

Anyway, after searching high and low for a solution, it seems that the most positive experiences seem to be with the Impact Acoustics 3-play switcher. I'm very, very close to ordering one (the Psyclone obviously will not work with my PS3), but I was curious whether or not anyone here can speak for the 3-play, having used it with all three current-gen consoles.

Basically I will be using the 3-play to wire my Wii, 360, and PS3 via component cables to my TV (a 61" 4:3 Mistubishi HD 1080). I'll be outputting my Wii in 480p and my 360 and PS3 in 1080i.

Can anyone speak for the 3-play having used it under these (or similar) conditions? I'm desperately looking for a solution to the bright-screen image-dropping issue with the Psyclone, and this is the closest I've found.

Thanks!

I mentioned the 3-play a few pages back. The Psyclone PSC01 worked fine for my projector but I got the image dropping on white problem on my LCD. The 3-play worked perfectly.

I got tired of messing around with component switchers and picked up an Onkyo TX-SR605 for that plus several other reasons - 2 HDMI and 3 component provided me with just enough inputs to work with. I kept the 3-play in the closet in case I decide to get a PS3 in a few years - I'll need it again, then as I'll be out of inputs.

did anybody confirm if you can stack daisy chain these 3-plays?

I've read through this entire thread and am now completely confused! After initially thinking I should go for either an Psyclone or a Joytech pages later they seem problematic.

However much of this thread is several years old - what do people recommend now? Are there new products or updates worthy of consideration?

I am looking for a relatively affordable component switch to connect several HD inputs (including digital media player & DVD player - no game boxes) to an Arcam AVR300 & then a Sony Wega LCD projection HD TV. Any recommendations?

Does anyone know whether the Psyclone or the Joytech work in this system without creating PQ problems?

I bought the Pysclone PSC01BK component source selector from Best Buy to be able to toggle from my Motorola HD DVR (Verizon Fios) and Sony HD DVR (over the air HD). Both components work well when plugged directly into the TV, but the Sony has no picture when both components are plugged in the Psyclone. I bought new cables, checked all connections, etc.

Apparently Psyclone is having a problem with interference with certain devices. I have pasted the email I received today -- the advice from the company is plug the device directly into the TV and don't use the switcher!

From: psyclonegamer [mailto:customerservice@psyclonegamer.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2008 10:20 AM
To:
Subject: RE: PsycloneGamer.com: Tech Support - Model #Psyclone PSC01 Source Selector (2/6/2008 9:38:03 AM)

Hello,

Thanks for choosing our great gaming products. We have noticed that certain devices plugged into the switcher may cause some channel interference across the entire device. Our engineers are working hard to try and solve this compatibility issue and we apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused. The only solution offered currently is to unplug any cable or satellite box from the switcher and plug it directly into the TV. Please let us know if this solution does not help or you have any more questions.

Thank you!

Psyclone Gaming Customer Service

I am going to try the Impact - 40324 - 3-Play Component Video Digital Audio Selector available through Cables To Go for $48.24 from Amazon.com.

Of 81 posts on Amazon, it had an average customer review of 4.5 out of 5.

Customer Reviews
81 Reviews
5 star: (55)
4 star: (18)
3 star: (5)
2 star: (0)
1 star: (3)

Seems like from other forums that AVS members have had good experience with this as well. For example, the following comment was under the title: Component Video Switcher recommendations wanted

GreenMonkey
06-13-07, 10:11 AM
Just thought I would give an update, the 3 way Impact Acoustics switcher arrived today, hooked up the HD DVD player and my Samsung tuner (since both require optical connection) and its working great, thanks for everyone's input, I love how you can get valuable feedback here on AVS, should have asked here before I bought in the first place :)

If you do a search of Impact 3-Play Selector, other positive comments are made as well.

Anyone have a bad experience with the Impact 40324 3-way selector?


Thanks and sorry for the long post.

I use Audio Authority equipment. A little pricier, but auto switching 1080p is a must.

I own their HDMi switcher, and their component video/optical/digital audio switcher.

-ELmO

For the cost conscious, I Just picked the Pelican 2.0 mentioned in this thread from Amazon for around $54 (silver plate or +$20 more dollars for black!). At least for NTSC stuff, it is great. 6 inputs (5 in back 1 in front). Haven't tried the component yet. But hands down better than the $39 4X1s you see around.
Comes with a decent remote, also handles a few optical audios, and .. curiously a switched Ethernet... perhaps useable if you really want to secure your connection. You certainly wouldn't want to accidentally switch the ethernet inputs of the panel during a firmware update!!

A nice problem solver, well priced. (Shipped extremely fast too)

Thanks to all on this thread for the many tips.