I am putting a outlet into the ceiling for my projector and want to use some kind protection; surge, line conditioner, ups, etc How do you connet one of these if the outlet is in the ceiling and the equipemnt is in another location? Any advice would be helpful.

I planned on having a surge protector or a UPS in my equipment rack and wired the recepticle in the ceiling back to a power inlet in the equipment rack. So basically:

Power --> rack --> UPS --> inlet --> outlet --> projector

Here is a link to a sample of the inlet... http://www.telephonestuff.com/Catalog/Model_4937.htm

This avoids having a male to male extention cord in the mix which is against code or having to run an extention cord through a conduit to the projector in the above setup.

I used the Panamax In-Wall Kit to accomplish this. There's a regular outlet at the projector (with a pass-through for LV cables). This outlet is connected via romex to a twist-lock inlet near your equipment rack. A twist-lock cord connects the inlet to your power conditioner/surge suppressor. In effect, this creates a legal, code-compliant in-wall extension cord between your projector and your power conditioner. It's a bit pricey, but it does meet code, and it accomplishes exactly what you want to do.

You can see this by clicking here (http://www.panamax.com/products.cfm?group=22&sec=detail&id=221&ly=h)

I wish I had seen this prior to sheetrock, but doesn't help me now. Oh well, is there any recommendation for an existing outlet?

Bud

I had an outlet installed in my ceiling but wasn't thinking surge protection at the time.

I just got one of those small travel surge protectlors that have the folding plug and put that into the outlet and the plugged the projector into that.

Both Belkin and Monster make small(er) units for mounting behind plasmas and you may be able to fit one onto your projector.

Kal

Thanks guys. I'll try and google it tonight.

Bud

I wish I had seen this prior to sheetrock, but doesn't help me now. Oh well, is there any recommendation for an existing outlet?

Bud

Hi Bud,

Try this:

DUPLEX SURGE SUPRESSION RECEPTACLE (http://www.smarthome.com/865130.HTML)

I painted mine a dark blue to match the ceiling color.

Larry

Cool!
Thanks Larry.

Going once, going twice... Sold by Smarthome!

Thanks Larry, I have a few things to order from them anyway. Appreciate it.

Bud

I second larry, I put it in the celing and painted it black.

If you look a little further into JeffTHX solution, Panamax makes a 2 gang inwall surge protector that has a recessed clock outlet (better for hiding bulky projector power cords) and a low voltage interchangable side. Here is the entire family http://www.panamax.com/products.cfm?group=22&sec=group

I have used these many times and they work well and can easily be painted any color.

Good Hunting

Extending the circuit from the rackmounted surge/filtering component is definitely the top recommendation. Whether you choose the Panamax Max InWall or Richard Gray pre-packaged systems, or cobble togehter your own systrem from parts.
Use a clock hanger or regular outlet, and wire it back to a box in the equipment area that is terminated to an inlet. Any sturdy grounded extension cord (like a contractor's Coleman 12/3) will be fine to complete the circuit to the surge.line conditioner in the rack.

The Leviton indoor/outdoor unit in the link above is fine for an inlet, and any industrial electrical supply house will have 15A and 20A flanged inlets which are used in pro sound racks and some appliances. You can buy a box cover pre-punched and drilled for that flanged inlet, but they are industrial looking and come in metal finish only.

OR.. you can PM AVS member and all-around good guy Larry Fine, he is making inlets to sell from regular Leviton blanks in traditional switchplate colors.

If you have an outlet, and cannot easily re-route it to your equipment location, be sure it is on the in the very next spot in phase on the main panel as the branch for your equipment room. Then use a surge device at the location of the projector...

Furman makes a mini version of their series-protection units that is absolutely first rate.
http://www.furmansound.com/products/consumer/flat_screen_tv_projector/ac_215.php

Although it may seem a little bulky, there is usually room for something like this on most PJ brackets.

Max2 from Panamax would be my second choice, then the surge protected outlets as a last resort as I do not believe is as in the same league as either the Furman or the Panamax...

Having discovered this thread I almost thought I had found my answere. I did find a couple of great links to Furman, Panamax, etc. Thanks!

But I am still kind of stuck and hope someone can help. I am running a dedicated line to the projector but do not want to create multiple plug-ins at the mounting site. That is, the dedicated line comes in from one side of the projector, (more or less straight from the junction box), and the AC filtration and regulation gear is on the other side of the projector off in a corner of the room. I looked over the Furman AC-215 looks like it'll do the trick for surge protection and some filtration besides. But I do not think there is room to mount it on the top of the projector. So I thought of rather simply putting it in the attic, attach the dedicated line to the AC in, and run the projector cord through the ceiling directly to the AC-215 rather than create anohter plug in with a mounted recepticle. Can this be done to code?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

mark

I used a 20 amp NEMA-enclosure mounted Zero Surge box.

Running a power cord through a wall or ceiling is against code.

I used a 20 amp NEMA-enclosure mounted Zero Surge box.

Fascinating! I have looked at both Zero Surge products and many 20 amp NEMA enclosures but haven't quite got that one figured out yet, (unless I am looking at the wrong Zero Surge product). I also found something called a SurgeX http://www.systemsstore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=ss&Product_Code=SX20-NE&Category_Code=surgex, that can be hard wired at the panel. I suppose I could terminate the dedicated line at the projector site in an approved in wall receptacle. This would at least clean up the multiple plug-ins at the projector or in the ceiling above the projector.

Still looking but I appreciate your insights and application suggestion.

mark

I planned on having a surge protector or a UPS in my equipment rack and wired the recepticle in the ceiling back to a power inlet in the equipment rack. So basically:

Power --> rack --> UPS --> inlet --> outlet --> projector

Here is a link to a sample of the inlet... http://www.telephonestuff.com/Catalog/Model_4937.htm

This avoids having a male to male extention cord in the mix which is against code or having to run an extention cord through a conduit to the projector in the above setup.

I am planning on doing something similar...I am going to do

Power->UPS->Inlet->outlet->projector

I am going to run romex (14/2) from the inlet to outlet at a length of about 40feet. I'll connect the UPS to the inlet with a 6ft or less 14/2 extension cord. Is 40 feet too long of a run or should this be ok? The projector will be the only thing connected to the outlet and I believe it is rated around 200W max.

Thanks,
Brendin

Wish I saw this thread awhile back. Well, at least running an outlet to a plug that goes into a dedicated surge protector is more fun. :)

For surge protected in-wall outlets I found and am now using the PS Audio Soloist (http://www.psaudio.com/products/soloist.asp). Supposed to replace the older Powerport so it cleans up the power somewhat as well as provide protection. It's expensive at $200 but check out that great piece of billet aluminum!(being facetious) This solves my problem. Haven't considered the UPS issue for continued viewing since when our power goes out it usually goes for hours at a time. Have a monitor at the equipment rack though which can run off a rack mounted UPS to provide on screen help for safe system shutdown.

For surge protected in-wall outlets I found and am now using the PS Audio Soloist (http://www.psaudio.com/products/soloist.asp). Supposed to replace the older Powerport so it cleans up the power somewhat as well as provide protection. It's expensive at $200 but check out that great piece of billet aluminum!(being facetious) This solves my problem. Haven't considered the UPS issue for continued viewing since when our power goes out it usually goes for hours at a time. Have a monitor at the equipment rack though which can run off a rack mounted UPS to provide on screen help for safe system shutdown.


The reason I am putting the PJ on a ups isn't so I can continue watching movies when the power goes out but rather so I can turn off the projector and let the fan cool the bulb rather than shock cooling it with an abrupt power outage.

Brendin

The reason I am putting the PJ on a ups isn't so I can continue watching movies when the power goes out but rather so I can turn off the projector and let the fan cool the bulb rather than shock cooling it with an abrupt power outage.

Brendin

Same here. I need some sort of battery backup for my PJ so I dont ruin my bulbs when power goes out. Someone please tell us how to do it and it has to be Code.

Same here. I need some sort of battery backup for my PJ so I dont ruin my bulbs when power goes out. Someone please tell us how to do it and it has to be Code.

I third this motion!

I've installed an APC J10 (http://www.apc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=J10BLK&tab=models) which is a power conditioner/surge proector/battery backup. Like many concern was bulb lifetime and equipment protection. Retails at $499 but can be had much cheaper.

For wiring I've done following (to PJ & Subs)

APC --> 20A cord --> junction box with twist connections --> 20A Romex --> Outlet --> PJ

I don't see why this would not pass code - I guess I'll find out when I have final inspections. :eek:

Cheers,
Mark

The reason I am putting the PJ on a ups isn't so I can continue watching movies when the power goes out but rather so I can turn off the projector and let the fan cool the bulb rather than shock cooling it with an abrupt power outage.

Brendin


I have no idea what a system Like This (http://www.bannerbackup.com) would cost but I have e-mailed them with our concerns regarding sensitive I/C boards and projector bulbs. The focus of my email was that I needed time to effect a safe shutdown of all sensitive systems rather than with the intent to use my A/V equipment for an extended period of time. On the other hand, how long would a strictly battery backup system like this help keep the food fresh?

So, I will pass along the info regarding duration of protection vs cost as it becomes available.

(I especially liked the rated response time)

APC --> 20A cord --> junction box with twist connections --> 20A Romex --> Outlet --> PJ

I don't see why this would not pass code - I guess I'll find out when I have final inspections. :eek: I'd like to hear about your inspection. MOST likely since it LOOKS like a Romex circuit it won't be questioned. I'd like to say this is a good design... I have an identical design where I run specific runs of Romex to J-boxes, and extend them with SO cable to the SMART-UPS outlets. This way I get critical-systems surge protection and a limited run-time. I have 3 of these... 1 for each my PJ, Modem/router/switch, and Study computer. Oh, that's not to say I don't have my HTPC and Server on them too... they're co-located and plug in directly. I selected SMART-UPS due to the true sine wave output for my Sony PJ. BTW, I got 2500+ hours on my first bulb and am 1000+ on my second. I believe these hours are directly related to the fact that I'm providing clean, uninterrupted power.

I was thinking of this solution before I built the house so running dedicated Romex wasn't an issue. I also had my electrician install Surge-Breakers in the head-end of each of my panels. I can't say (for sure) whether they really DO work, but I feel better knowing they're there for the rest of my TVs, clocks... sensitive electronics.

Here are some pics of my inlet plug and the outlet plug I used by the projector mount. It is a single outlet clock mount.

I planned on having a surge protector or a UPS in my equipment rack and wired the recepticle in the ceiling back to a power inlet in the equipment rack. So basically:

Power --> rack --> UPS --> inlet --> outlet --> projector

Here is a link to a sample of the inlet... http://www.telephonestuff.com/Catalog/Model_4937.htm

This avoids having a male to male extention cord in the mix which is against code or having to run an extention cord through a conduit to the projector in the above setup.

I did this exact set up and ran a line for my sub as well. Works great and is nowhere near the cost for the $299 Panamax solution.

Brian

My electrical inspector did not allow for a receptacle outlet to be on the ceiling - at least not receded into on. I just ran the Romex cable and its sticking out of the wall. Does anyone know of any post-drywall wall mount electrical boxes I can put for the outlet?

Thanks,
George

Home Depot sells a low profile box and associated track/enclosure you could paint and mount from there to the projector. I wonder what was in his thinking... just use a standard outlet if recessed is his issue! Maybe he was concerned about stepping on it from above... seems a 2x6 brace, or a 12"x16" plywood block would aleviate that concern. HOW is a recepticle any different than a ceiling light box? Use THAT and change it to an outlet, post inspection ;-) I'm glad he didn't baulk at the other end!

Andrew,
They can be funky sometimes with the code. Otherwise the inspection went smooth. The problem is he comes in for the final check. It could have been concealed around the projector (after all, how often does the electrical inspector scan the ceiling for the light). I'll just grab an external box, mount in behind the projector tightly so its protruding.

Thanks,
George

I've installed an APC J10 (http://www.apc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=J10BLK&tab=models) which is a power conditioner/surge proector/battery backup. Like many concern was bulb lifetime and equipment protection. Retails at $499 but can be had much cheaper.

For wiring I've done following (to PJ & Subs)

APC --> 20A cord --> junction box with twist connections --> 20A Romex --> Outlet --> PJ

I don't see why this would not pass code - I guess I'll find out when I have final inspections. :eek:

Cheers,
Mark

Can you provide more detail on the parts that you used, including the "junction box with twist connections"? It seems that what you did is similar to what the Panamax Max In-Wall Powerkit-TL does. I like the Panamax, but it seems overpriced.

Thanks.

I used double gang blank plate and drilled two holes. I found some cable glands (similar to this (http://img.alibaba.com/photo/51185214/Cable_Connecting_System.jpg)) that attached to the plate. I got a couple heavy duty power cords and cut the socket end of and passed thru the cable glands, secured and then used wire nuts to attach to the romex.

Cheers,
Mark

Thanks!

Just for the record (no I'm not an electrician, but I'm 100% sure of this), what Mark is suggesting above (hard wiring into a junction box) is without a doubt, VERY against code and a fire hazard. Very Bad Idea.

Use an inlet receptacle instead (http://www.twacomm.com/catalog/model_4937.htm).

Tim,

The way Mark explained it is exactly how my electrician said he would do it. So I hope it would meet code, at least here in Madison. He said as long as the in-wall run is made with romex it would be OK. Being that simple I am going to do it that way myself instead of paying him to do it.

Terry

My electrical inspector did not allow for a receptacle outlet to be on the ceiling - at least not receded into on. I just ran the Romex cable and its sticking out of the wall. Does anyone know of any post-drywall wall mount electrical boxes I can put for the outlet?

Thanks,
George

Go to any hardware store and look for an "old work" box. They sell them in all different configurations. These would still mount behind the drywall.

Laters,
Jeff

Trying to take what Tim said and get the whole plan down in one go here.

Does the following sound like a workable plan to get a UPS next door to the Projector to provide power.

Projector in ceiling -> regular PJ power cord
into 20Amp power socket in ceiling -> 12/2 Romex cable
which terminates in a
Leviton 15A 125V 2-Pole, 3-Wire Weatherproof Inlet (http://www.twacomm.com/catalog/model_4937.htm)

And then use a power cable identical to the PJ power cable, between that male socket and the female socket on the UPS ?

Andy

Terry,

Wow, that's insane - one yank of the cord and the wirenuts are useless. I can't believe that's supposedly code-compliant in Madison. Of course, 15/32" plywood for roof sheathing is compliant and I've installed it when working a construction job in the past, but there's no way I would put that on my house when building it, either.

Andy,

That's exactly what I would do as well. I haven't found a short extension cord like you're describing, but making one might be more ideal since you can make it the exact length that you want.

Trying to take what Tim said and get the whole plan down in one go here.

Does the following sound like a workable plan to get a UPS next door to the Projector to provide power.

Projector in ceiling -> regular PJ power cord
into 20Amp power socket in ceiling -> 12/2 Romex cable
which terminates in a
Leviton 15A 125V 2-Pole, 3-Wire Weatherproof Inlet (http://www.twacomm.com/catalog/model_4937.htm)

And then use a power cable identical to the PJ power cable, between that male socket and the female socket on the UPS ?

Andy

Thats the exact setup I am doing, just use the shortest extention cord you can find at the hardware store between that male inlet socket and the female socket on the UPS. You probably only need a 15amp socket in the ceiling but the 20 wont hurt anything and be just as acceptable to the inspectors (assuming 20amp circuit since you put 12/2 cable).

I used one of these cords for my inlet. They are only 16in long.

http://www.carolwrightgifts.com/cwg_v2/cwg_layout_base2.cfm?mid_sec_page=cwg_prod_detail&seq_no=5&min_seq_no=503&SingleItem=30514


David

Oh that's perfect David, excellent link.

That completes my design nicely.

Andy

I plan on doing what xnaron did with a 5-20 clock outlet romexed to a 5-15 Flanged Inlet. Then, plug into a protected power unit.

OR.. you can PM AVS member and all-around good guy Larry Fine, he is making inlets to sell from regular Leviton blanks in traditional switchplate colors...

I would love to see what Larry came up with.... Any one have a way to contact Larry? I tried PM'ing LarryFine but no go.

I plan on doing what xnaron did with a 5-20 clock outlet romexed to a 5-15 Flanged Inlet. Then, plug into a protected power unit.

I've seen that same inlet. What are you planning to mount that in? I'm hoping to use a single gang box...have you found a good cover plate to mount this in?

Is it allowed to run the projector cord in the ceiling to reach a closet if you run the cord in electrical conduit? If not, what does everyone else do with the extra long length of projector cord if they are pluging in directly above the projector? It sounds like the inlet/outlet solution is perfect for me as my A/V rack is only about 12 feet away in an unfinished part of the basement, but what do I do with the long left over power cord short of tying it up above the projector?

No, you can't have the power cord in conduit.

For the long power cord, you could always cut the cord shorter and add a new plug end. Or maybe find a shorter computer power cord somewhere.

For the life of me I can not understand why a UL rated heavy duty power cord can not be run through electrical conduit in the ceiling if both ends (terminations) are outside of the ceiling.

Is the power recepticle outlet allowed to be mounted in the ceiling directly above the projector? If so has anybody sourced a short (8"-12")computer cable for connecting the projector to the outlet?

Ok, I found the power cord here http://www.cablestogo.com/product.asp?cat%5Fid=914&sku=24240 And thanks to you guys I have a source for the Leviton 4937 inlet. Now all I need to find is the recessed clock outlets, will they fit in a standard gang box?

Does the romex run in the ceiling need to be stapled or attached to the joists? Or can I just pull it through and leave it lying on the top surface of the ceiling sheetrock?

Regarding vertical run, I need to get the romex down from the ceiling and then go down through the floor. The wall there is sheetrock on lathe strip on concrete block so no room to snake in the wall. Can I install a 2" pvc pipe or channel from ceiling to floor and run the romex (and AV cables) through that?

:confused:

Jim,

Disclaimer: Consult your local codes, yadda, yadda.

Typically you need to staple/secure the romex at a maximum of every 4 ft, and within 8" of a junction box. A drilled hole counts as a staple.

Use a metal electrical conduit sized for the cable you're using, typically 3/4" or so, instead of PVC. Where the conduit ends (and begins), you need a clamp on the end, whether the cable continues or it's terminated at a junction box. If you run conduit all the way to the junction box, use a metal J-box (and clamp).

Never run your A/V cables with electrical - way too much interference. In fact, try and keep them at least 3 ft apart, and if they must come close to each other, run them perpendicular to each other.

Jim,

Disclaimer: Consult your local codes, yadda, yadda.

Never run your A/V cables with electrical - way too much interference. In fact, try and keep them at least 3 ft apart, and if they must come close to each other, run them perpendicular to each other.

Great advice Miltimj, couldn't agree more about the separation of signal and power cables. If this separation is not maintained, the video and audio will suffer perceptible and unnacceptable degradation during playback.

Cherokee180c, take a look at this link PS Audio Soloist (http://enjoythemusic.com/magazine/equipment/1206/ps_audio_jps_labs.htm). I have installed one of these in the ceiling, (according to code), directly above the projector, and of course have run a dedicated line to it.

mark

Ok, I found the power cord here http://www.cablestogo.com/product.asp?cat%5Fid=914&sku=24240 And thanks to you guys I have a source for the Leviton 4937 inlet. Now all I need to find is the recessed clock outlets, will they fit in a standard gang box?

You can also use a recessed outlet conversion kit (http://www.cinemabuilder.com/products/electrical/recessed-wall-plate.asp) (http://www.cinemabuilder.com/products/electrical/recessed-wall-plate.asp) which lets you recess any standard gang box or low-voltage connections (like Leviton connectors).

They also come with a cover, so you can hide the outlets when you're not using them.

Okay, I have a question for all of you.

I have used the Panamax TwistLock, and if anyone has tried to actually wire the inlet side of it, you know that the system is a piece of trash. How does anyone who actually wires the inlets or trims out racks feel about a decora plate with an IEC plug in it and screw-terminals on the back for the Romex? It's something I'm thinking about inventing... Obviously, you can order the IEC cords anywhere from 12" to 20 Feet, so getting custom length cables is a breeze, and the other side can be a regular outlet, a recessed clock outlet, or just about whatever the client needs. Cost of maybe $30 (Retail). Essentially its a similar idea to the Leviton inlet, but in a decora insert, you have more flexibility in how you place it (ie. you can have one triple gang box with your hot power, the inlet, and your low voltage wiring, and thats it). Thoughts?

I called Levition and they told me the 4937 was on backorder- indefinitely.
So anyone that does not have it in stock can not just order it. All the sites listed here show 1 week before shippping. No one has it in stock.

Does anyone have a source that KNOWS that they can provide one, or 3 actually. 1 for the PJ and 2 for the subs.

I have called all elctric supply in NoVA area and no one stocks these kinds of things.

Thanks in advance,
James

So are we back to the panamax solution? Anybody have an alternative to the back ordered Leviton?

Ed

Update on what I posted here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8934247&&#post8934247).

I had my Electrical inspection and passed.....I'm not sure if the inspector saw what I did but did not want to point it out.

I don't see how this is a fire risk as 'miltimj' has stated. If you use same logic many electrical appliance uses the same type of cable glands to connect their power cords - so are they all fire risk?

The cable glands hold the cord very snuggly and would take a major tug to pull them out. Also its not like these cords are in a vicinity where someone can tug at them. They are behind the rack which is behind a door.

By all means spend $$ on other methods, but IMO this is a safe cost effective method.

Cheers,
Mark

Update, Telephonestuff has this (http://www.telephonestuff.com/Catalog/Model_4937.htm) item back in stock today.

Never run your A/V cables with electrical - way too much interference. In fact, try and keep them at least 3 ft apart, and if they must come close to each other, run them perpendicular to each other.

This to me is one of the most controversial topics I've seen discussed on any forum anywhere. Some people are adamant that you'll see horrible degradation if high- and low-voltage cables are adjacent. Others say you won't see any degradation whatsoever.

All I know is that my HDMI and component cables (both 50' long) are in a tight soffit space right alongside the projector power cable (14/2 romex). I left the circuit breaker disabled and ran the pj from a different power source. No problems. I turned the circuit breaker on and ran the projector from it. Same video source, same material. I couldn't see any change whatsoever.

As always, your mileage may vary, but I think it's a little apocalyptic to say the video and audio degradation will be unacceptable. Not your words Milt, I know - jkmw's.


-drin

The issue of running low voltage of any type, along side of line level "high" voltage depends on a couple things. The enemy here is inductance. Over a short distance there should be little concern, it is when they are ran next to each other over longer distances that it becomes more and more of an issue. Also, certain types of wiring are more inclined to pick up voltage through inductance because of it's design. "poor shielding" For a short run, lets say you are obligated to run line level and low voltage conductors down the wall together, I would not be too concerned about it. Especially if your running better quality A/V cables that are well shielded. It is for the long runs, where you have the option of keeping them separated that you should do so at all cost. We typical keep any and all low voltage 12" away from standard circuit runs and several feet from circuits that will carry large amounts of current such as runs to AC units, electrical furnaces, sub panels...."
This has been my policy regarding Low / High voltage separation and have had good results with the 100+ homes my company wire per year for the last 12 years.

Thanks this was really helpfull.

:p yeah I have a response......ah, what? :D

My electrical inspector did not allow for a receptacle outlet to be on the ceiling

Mine had no problem with this at all. But then he was a nice guy and recognized what we were building was not a bedroom! Some inspectors are great and practical - others are only interested in covering their own ass.

The ideal way to do this is to use a recessed male at your rack and connect this to your power controller with a short heavy extension cord (make one or use one for window A/C units). The recessed male is wired conventionally thru the walls to an outlet near the PJ (and in my case the SW as well). See the pictures on my Galaxy Theater Page (http://nightskypictures.com/theater/theater.htm)

The recessed males are the aluminum colored plates on the wall to the right of the rack (rear). The extension cords are the yellow and tan cords plugged into them. Sorry, I can't tell you where to find these - my electrician got them and installed them (he thought it was a cool idea). I think they are used in RV's for 120 AC hookup.

The cord you see hanging from the soffit is the HDMI to the PJ. The outlet resides in the recess in the soffit so is not visible in the photo.

Hello CCDAstro!

I left a reply for you in the thread listed in my title concerning the rope lights you used. If you have a minute I wonder if you could take a look, I shouldn't post my questions about that subject in this thread. Really like the look and the soffit work. Send me a private message if you prefer. I tried to send you one, but it doesn't appear that you set yourself up to receive them.

jkmw

Please forgive my electrical ignorance, in my identical situation, I was simply planning on terminating one end of Romex with a 2 gang AC box, mounted on a joist inside my cieling that my projector would plug into and terminating the other end of that romex 20 feet away with a male recepticle that would then plug into my Monster HT Power Center. Was going to do the same for a subwoofer I will have placed far away from the Monster HT Power Center as well...am I missing something and am I going to end up killing myslef (my contractor buddy was acutally going to install it)? Thought my $20 solution was good until I saw posting for $300 pieces of hardware to do the same thing....

No, you're not going to kill yourself with a wiring scenario such as that. It is against code (essentially running an extension cord permanently inside a wall), but it won't hurt anything. So it comes down to whether you're going to get it inspected with the rest of everything else. If that's the case, it won't pass and you'll have to do it the "right" way - terminate it at the powercenter end as well. Or you can just wait until that day comes and do it then, since you'll have enough slack with the male plug end.

Finally got around to taking a picture of my setup and thought I would add to this thread.

I used an existing outlet next to the service panels. Added a male power inlet ($20). Ran the dedicated romex cable from the projector outlet to the power inlet. Inserted the Triplite Battery Backup and circuit protector between the outlet and the inlet.

Mounted the power unit on a Two Bucket rack. I may improve at some point.

Of interest in this picture is the big black mark on my wall. That is leftover from a Cox Cable installers last day on the job (at least he thought it was going to be his last). He hoped to start a company doing high-tech pre-wiring for new home construction. He mis measured where the main service line was and when he drilled a hole for the cable he drilled right into the main feed. I was watching from the inside and it was like a magic act. A cloud of smoke and sparks erupted.

The drill bit ended up about 2 inches shorter.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/DSC00997.jpg

I left a reply for you in the thread listed in my title concerning the rope lights you used.

Reply sent, check that thread. Sorry to be slow.

The recessed males are the aluminum colored plates on the wall to the right of the rack (rear). The extension cords are the yellow and tan cords plugged into them. Sorry, I can't tell you where to find these - my electrician got them and installed them (he thought it was a cool idea). I think they are used in RV's for 120 AC hookup.


That's a bummer CCDAstro, I liked what you did (at least from the little I can see in the picture. Any chance you can take a close up of the recessed male outlets. Maybe we can use the power of AVSFORUM to find out what they were. The option most of us use is the grey one you see in BigMouth's install. It's a pain in the butt to wire, and for some reason only just fits in the outlet. With mine plugging into it requires quite a few attempts, no idea why, but there you go.

Any chance you can take a close up of the recessed male outlets.

Here is a shot. You can even read the manufacturer! The electrician provided the plastic recessed plug and the metal plate (separate). I used a hole saw and screws to install the plug in the plate for him and he installed the unit.

http://nightskypictures.com/theater/Rec_Plug.jpg

Well after an hour of searching their catalog I found it:

http://www.hubbellcatalog.com/wiring/section-a-datasheet.asp?PN=HBL5278C&FAM=Straight_Blade&P=13458,373,1098


There is a Stainless steel version:

http://www.hubbellcatalog.com/wiring/section-a-datasheet.asp?PN=HBL5240&FAM=Straight_Blade&P=13458,7604,373,1096,979,7605,8017,8056,954

Finally the end of the holy grail ....a place to buy it:

http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/SearchResults.asp?N=0&Ntk=Primary&Ntt=HBL5278C&Source=&sid=4682FA006D85E17F

Good find Jeff!!

/added yet another bookmark in my "stuff to buy" folder....

Thanks for the info Tim. I understand now why evryone is forking out time and cash to do this right! I on the other hand just moved into my house (a new one which I got quotes from the TV/stereo installers for running extra cable so i would not have to be doing what I am trying to do now but they wanted mad $$$$) and am doing a little home theater experiment...nothing huge...and will follow all your "code compliant" methodologies later on down the line ( c;

Guys - was going to use the Leviton "inlet" to get the PJ on a UPS (Leviton inlet wired in the EQ room to the normal outlet PJ plug on the ceiling) to do this, but a quick question:

My Electrician wired EVERYTHING in the room with 12 gauge wire for 20 AMP circuits - including the wiring between the projector plug on the ceiling and the gang box that will house the Leviton in the EQ room.

The Leviton is rated 15 AMP (Doh!). The wire between the Leviton and the PJ plug is 12 AWG. Is this compatible? I'd think so, but wanted to check..

All circuits in the theater and equipment room will be 20 AMP, including the one ultimately feeding the UPS. I'm guessing this part's OK. But what's the UPS put out back into the Leviton? Is there some "conversion" to 15 AMP or something? Or is Voltage the relevant thing to be thinking about here instead?

Thanks..

You are fine putting a 15A recepticle on 12G - you just can't do reverse (i.e. put a 20A recepticle on 14G.

Cheers,
Mark

The other part that might make you feel better... It sounds like you are concerned that the inlet might draw 20Amps. Well that will only happen in your case if

a. Your projector draws 20A, not likely anytime soon!
b. You plug in a couple of portable heaters into your PJ outlet.

Infact, my electrical inspector wanted me to replace my 14 AWG with 12 AWG from my inlet as it was going to be fed by a 20A circuit. The same is true with the Panamax In-Wall kit, that is rated 15 A, but you can use it on a 20A circuit. Think of the inlet and cable as just an extension of your component. You wouldn't panic about plugging in an extension cable or something into a 20A circuit right?

So, to make a long story short:

surge protector in equipment room ---> heavy extension cord ---> hubbell male inlet ---> 12 gauge Romex ---> standard 3 prong outlet (or any special type??) ---> projector cord ---> projector

Correct?

It looks like the Hubbell inlet is identical to the Leviton 5278 (white). The Leviton 5239 (black) looks like it would also work. Both are under $10 at pro electrical suppliers.

Dan

You might want to use a recessed clock outlet for the projector end.

Here is what i am using. Found them at Home Depot. Basically it's a twist and lock Inlet. I am going to make my own power cable to connect from twist and lock inlet to my UPS. They are both made by Pass & Seymour. They both cost approximatly $23. The part number for the outlet is NEMA L6-20R and the part number for the Plug is NEMA L6-20P and both of them are 20 amp.

So, you're using these at BOTH ends (at the projector and at the UPS)?

How do you go from an IEC cable end used on the projector to one of these twist lock jobbers?

Color me confused.

Dan

So, you're using these at BOTH ends (at the projector and at the UPS)?

How do you go from an IEC cable end used on the projector to one of these twist lock jobbers?

Color me confused.

Dan

Sorry for the confusion. I am only using this behind my equipment rack to connect to my UPS or surge protector. Romex is then run from Twist lock Inlet through the wall, to Projector outlet in ceiling. Projector is then pluged into outlet in ceiling.

Cool. Thanks!

Couple of corrections to suggestions in this thread:

1) Do not use a 20A receptacle at the projector when you are supplying it with a 15A inlet. This would allow someone to plug a 20A device into a circuit that isn't rated for it. Use a 15A receptacle or a 20A inlet (I would just stick with the 15A inlet and a standard 15A receptacle).

2) Those particular twist lock parts result in a dangerous situation of having two male ends on a cord. That will give you a HOT male plug! That is a serious shock / fire hazard. You need to use an inlet otherwise you are reverse wiring an outlet which is dangerous.

If you want to do twist lock: http://www.drillspot.com/products/131658/Hubbell_HBL7595N_Midget_Twist_Lock_Flanged_Inlet
But that isn't necessary, just use a 15A inlet. You can search for them with Froogle. BH has this option: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/283161-REG/NSI_Leviton_5278C_Flanged_Inlet_Receptacle_White.html

Cheers.

Those particular twist lock parts result in a dangerous situation of having two male ends on a cord. That will give you a HOT male plug! That is a serious shock / fire hazard. You need to use an inlet otherwise you are reverse wiring an outlet which is dangerous.

Cheers.

Excellent point. I was wondering why no-one had suggested doing regular receptacle-romex in ceiling-regular receptacle, now I know why!

I need a 20amp version of the leviton 4937, anyone seen one? I've googled it with no luck. I'm using an Equitech 7.5q with 20amp circuits and want all outlets to have 20amp capability.
thanks, great info here!

You're searching for a 20A inlet. There out there but I'm not seeing one that is already mounted on a wall plate. BH Photo Video has it:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/283180-REG/NSI_Leviton_15378C_Flanged_Inlet_Plug_.html

Leviton part number 15378C. Then you'll need an IEC to 5-20 cord to hook them together.

You could also use a 20A twist lock if you want which Leviton has an inlet of:
http://www.fruitridgetools.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sfid=136763&i=18143568&c=0

With the twist lock you may have problems trying to find a premade cord that is a 5-20 male to L5-20 twist lock female since this isn't the normal configuration. You are almost always connecting out of a twist lock receptacle into a device. I searched briefly and just saw one that was a 6" adapter. You could make one but I don't think it would be worth the hassle Sticking with the straight plugs will be easier.

Thanks Timmy.
It looks like the twist lock will be the way to go, with the male end in the link you listed. A female end can be used to construct a short power cord and bingo, I'll be connected!

You're searching for a 20A inlet. There out there but I'm not seeing one that is already mounted on a wall plate. BH Photo Video has it:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/283180-REG/NSI_Leviton_15378C_Flanged_Inlet_Plug_.html



Good Info, but how do you install the above 20 amp inlet in a gang box?

I just had my electrician put a plug in the ceiling and I purchased a Belkin 1080 surgecube surge protector which I will plug into the plug and then plug my projector into it.

Is there a problem with this scenerio?

After some searching for PowerBridge solutions ( this is a kit sold on the net )
I also came across this item from Leviton, which is only $20, and this really is a simple solution and inexpensive if you want to do the same thing as what PowerBridge is selling it seems.


I planned on having a surge protector or a UPS in my equipment rack and wired the recepticle in the ceiling back to a power inlet in the equipment rack. So basically:

Power --> rack --> UPS --> inlet --> outlet --> projector

Here is a link to a sample of the inlet... http://www.telephonestuff.com/Catalog/Model_4937.htm

This avoids having a male to male extention cord in the mix which is against code or having to run an extention cord through a conduit to the projector in the above setup.

I'm using leviton part 2315 and 2313 which are 20 amp male and female locking with the male end in the wall outlet. This prevents the situation of a "hot" male plug(!) as described by Timmyotule above. The other option is to use leviton part 5369 and 15378 which are standard 20amp male and female non-locking again with the male one in the wall outlet. Leviton 5239/5278 and 515 are the 15amp equivalent of these.

It requires making your own power cord with the female ends to match the male wallplate, but that's no big deal.

Just for the record (no I'm not an electrician, but I'm 100% sure of this), what Mark is suggesting above (hard wiring into a junction box) is without a doubt, VERY against code and a fire hazard. Very Bad Idea.

Use an inlet receptacle instead (http://www.twacomm.com/catalog/model_4937.htm).

Here we go again, another non-electrician telling us what's against code without a code reference. The only mention of this in the NEC is 406.6(b) which simply states you cannot have an installation that allows you to have an energized plug. It is so vague in fact, that any adherence to code would be in the eyes of the inspector. So how are you 100% sure it's against code?

While I understand your concern about how secure the cables are to the junction box, that would be up to the judgement of the inspector who is able to see and touch the installation. I'm pretty sure it would be hard for you to judge how secure it is over the internet

BritinVA,
I did mine almost exactly that same way. A couple of differences:
I purchased raw UL listed 12-3 appliance type cable (round, black rubber jacket, designed specifically for this type of installation), then terminated it with heavy duty Hubbel brand Plugs. these are secured using appropriate sized saddle clamp connectors to the holes in the side of the box (box is not enclosed in drywall). The whips connect to 12-2 NM-B inside the box using wire nuts. I have 2 plugs, one for my plasma and one for my sub. This connects them to my power center

I too had this inspected and it passed as well.

Once again, I'm not recommending anybody do any of this themselves if they have any doubt about it. Which you should. Do you really want to trust what some dude said was code on the internet? for all you know, I'm actually a 10 yr old boy having fun with you. Your homes and your families are too important to make that gamble. at least consult a licensed electrician or inspector and always have your/their work inspected.

Hey there The Bogg,

Would you have any images, or a link(s) to the parts you are using ? I'm not seeing this visually, so maybe you can provide a bit more info.

On another note, I saw a post by somebody ( I don't remember the link or the forum to the post ) but this guy used what looks like a proper black computer cord, as part of his design. Look below, this could be another possible solution. As long as all wiring is securely fastened, and is secured in the actual junction box, this looks very safe. I don't know if it would be within code though, however it looks likes safe ( but that doesn't mean it will pass code )

As for the method I'd am probably going to go with, it would be using
the Leviton clock receptacle, and for the bottom receptacle I'd use this one:
http://www.twacomm.com/catalog/model_4937.htm , it seems the best bet so far, and is really a mirror/clone of that Power Bridge kit.

http://img250.imageshack.us/img250/1950/clockoutletpowerdm2.jpg


I'm using leviton part 2315 and 2313 which are 20 amp male and female locking with the male end in the wall outlet. This prevents the situation of a "hot" male plug(!) as described by Timmyotule above. The other option is to use leviton part 5369 and 15378 which are standard 20amp male and female non-locking again with the male one in the wall outlet. Leviton 5239/5278 and 515 are the 15amp equivalent of these.

It requires making your own power cord with the female ends to match the male wallplate, but that's no big deal.

zippo,
just go to the link you listed at twacomm.com and put in the numbers from my post under the search field. That site is the best for info on all the leviton stuff.

Hey The Bogg,

thanks for the info. I was on their earlier today, but didn't think of doing that,,, will do that tonight. Thanks for the tip.

zippo,
just go to the link you listed at twacomm.com and put in the numbers from my post under the search field. That site is the best for info on all the leviton stuff.

I found this after I had already purchased a Leviton weather proof Inlet. It's much more expensive, however it's a perfect solution even though it does the same thing as a Leviton weather proof inlet.

Here is a link to there website. http://www.powerbridgesolution.com/aboutpowerbridge.html

This past Friday I picked up 4 of the Leviton units, and have installed 1 of them, it works like a dream.

What a find, and I'm so glad I did my homework and did not go to PB way, I saved a bit of money that can now be spent on wall plates and stuff over at monoprice.com

Leviton make a beautiful product, very sturdy, and it was super easy to hook up.

Here are some images of the Leviton outlet receptacles.

What have you guys being using to plug into the Leviton 4937. I am currently using an extension cord, but was wondering if there are any better ready made solutions out there.

I went searching for extension cords the other day, and everything I found was just too long. I only need about 2 feet. Try finding that with 3 prong ends... it's not easy to do.

So, I had some electrical extension cord hanging around... ( you know like the ones you would use to hook up the weed wacker with in the yard ), well I just snipped off about 2 feet, and attached 2 plugs I bought at Home Depot.

Problem fixed. Ok, if you look really carefully behind my media equipment furniture, you'll see the orange cable, but if you didn't go searching for it, you wouldn't see it.

Remember - this is for a home application, I'm not out installing these for others. Works for me, and it's all safely wired.

Of course the 2 foot wire I used has one male plug and one female plug.

The female end plugs into the new Leviton male receptacle.


What have you guys being using to plug into the Leviton 4937. I am currently using an extension cord, but was wondering if there are any better ready made solutions out there.

Thats a very good idea. Home Depot also sells bulk wire by the foot. Maybe i could find a nice power cable and use that along with some plugs. i also found this on MonoPrice, but the shortest length is 6ft.
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022801&p_id=1301&seq=1&format=2

That's a good price for the cord, and it's black. It's too bad it's 6 feet... that's a long long length of wire.

My surge protector / power bar is about 2 feet max from that plug I installed,
so I'm really glad I got the short wire .

P.S. - I'm really glad you told me about that ! , I'm going to head over to Home Depot tomorrow and buy 4 feet of BLACK cable ( electrical extension wire ) and rewire my extension cords !

Sheez, I'm so glad you mentioned that !, ok it will give me another hour of work to do 4 plugs ( I'm slow ) but it will look a lot nicer I think. You can't see the orange extension cord I used, but.... if I am showing it off to any friends that come over in the future, I think it will just look more professional with the black wire, and it won't stick out like a sore thumb when I pull the furiture away from the wall to show visitors :)


Thats a very good idea. Home Depot also sells bulk wire by the foot. Maybe i could find a nice power cable and use that along with some plugs. i also found this on MonoPrice, but the shortest length is 6ft.
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022801&p_id=1301&seq=1&format=2

Here is an image I just took.

You can see the short "extension cord" I built. It looks cheesy, but it works.

When I go to Home Depot I may even buy another black plug and remove that yellow one at the same time ( so both plugs would be black, and the actual length of cable would be also )

Above the Leviton outlet receptable I installed ( model 4937 ) ( male pronged ),
you can see the regular existing outlet which I have my surged protected power bar plugged into it. The extension I made goes from that power bar, into the new outlet I installed.

( I know you know this hmcbean, but I'm just clarifying for anyone coming across my posts in the upcoming weeks, months etc. )

Let me know how your Home Depot run goes tomorrow. i am looking for a 14AWG power cable thats shielded. I spent three days in my attic wiring my New JVC RS1 Projector. I had to cut holes in my wall in the bathroom in the opposite room so i could drill holes to pass cables through the fire stops. My ceilings are 12ft high, so i had to drill holes in two fire stops in the walls. Of course i did this while my wife was at work today so she wouldn't give me grief over the huge holes in her Bathroom walls.

Anyway, i have attached a few photo's of my work so far. You will notice three dedicated, double gang outlets behind my cabinet. One for subs, one for Amps, and the third for the Front End and projector.

I now only waiting on my Low voltage cover plate from Mono Price for the ceiling to pass wire through to the projector. I also still need a short 3ft power cable for my connection between the projector and ceiling outlet.

More Pics.

Thats a very good idea. Home Depot also sells bulk wire by the foot. Maybe i could find a nice power cable and use that along with some plugs. i also found this on MonoPrice, but the shortest length is 6ft.
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022801&p_id=1301&seq=1&format=2


Monoprice has a 1 foot extension cord. It's right next to the 6ft one on the Power Cable page. See here:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022801&p_id=1300&seq=1&format=2

wow, - you did some nice wiring back there on your wall.

I'll have to snap an image of what I did on my wall - I"m ashamed to show it but will, and now I want to do it your way.

All I did was make 2 holes, one at the top behind my TV, and one at the bottom of the wall, and slide all my data wires ( component, audio, hdmi ) thru the top hole, into and down the inside of the wall, and out the bottom hole.

It looks terrible that way, but it's cheap. I love your way. This means though that I would have to use 3 cables for every 1 cable I'm using now, if I am guessing correctly. 1 wire goes inside the wall, and goes from a wall plate to the bottom of the wall, and another wall plate. Then, - you hook up shorter cables from that wall plate at the bottom to your equipment, and at the top, shorter cables from the wall plate there, to the TV.

Ah gee, your job looks so professional.

I have a question, - how do you attach the boxes you are using for all your connections into the wall ? ( I'm assuming you don't have every box attached to a wooden stud in the wall ? or do you )

I'm going to have to go over your images again tomorrow for some more inspiration. By the way the projector mounting looks like an awesome job !

Those speakers - in the media room - I've never seen amazing speakers like that before, they look like they are from the 1950s... why am I thinking bobby socks ? :D , they are beautiful.... ( what brand are those )


Let me know how your Home Depot run goes tomorrow. i am looking for a 14AWG power cable thats shielded. I spent three days in my attic wiring my New JVC RS1 Projector. .

Heh, wow, that's a great find you found there ! I'm glad I didn't do my MonoPrice order yet.... very nice !

thanks for posting that :)

Monoprice has a 1 foot extension cord. It's right next to the 6ft one on the Power Cable page. See here:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022801&p_id=1300&seq=1&format=2

wow, - you did some nice wiring back there on your wall.

I'll have to snap an image of what I did on my wall - I"m ashamed to show it but will, and now I want to do it your way.

All I did was make 2 holes, one at the top behind my TV, and one at the bottom of the wall, and slide all my data wires ( component, audio, hdmi ) thru the top hole, into and down the inside of the wall, and out the bottom hole.

It looks terrible that way, but it's cheap. I love your way. This means though that I would have to use 3 cables for every 1 cable I'm using now, if I am guessing correctly. 1 wire goes inside the wall, and goes from a wall plate to the bottom of the wall, and another wall plate. Then, - you hook up shorter cables from that wall plate at the bottom to your equipment, and at the top, shorter cables from the wall plate there, to the TV.

Ah gee, your job looks so professional.

I have a question, - how do you attach the boxes you are using for all your connections into the wall ? ( I'm assuming you don't have every box attached to a wooden stud in the wall ? or do you )

I'm going to have to go over your images again tomorrow for some more inspiration. By the way the projector mounting looks like an awesome job !

Those speakers - in the media room - I've never seen amazing speakers like that before, they look like they are from the 1950s... why am I thinking bobby socks ? :D , they are beautiful.... ( what brand are those )

THanks. It was very hard work and took a lot of time. I only used two runs of wire for my low voltage runs. One from the equipment rack to the wall, and another from the wall behind the equipment rack through the ceiling and down to the projector. I wasn't able to find a S-Video jack for the wall so i am pulling the cable through one of the cover plates to the equipment in the rack. For the high voltage, i used three runs of wire. A plug from wall inlet to surge protector, Romex from wall inlet to Outlet on ceiling, and then a plug from projector to Outlet in ceiling.

When you go to HOme Depot you will find two types of electrical gang boxes. New work and old work. New work boxes are installed during construction when the walls are open as they are attached to studs. Old work boxes are designed to be installed after the drywall has been installed. They have clips on the back of the box that spring and hold against the back of the drywall holding the box in place. They have them for low voltage and high voltage and are very easy to use.

Speakers are Revels made by Mark Levinson.

Merry Christmas, everyone. Now you guys have me worried and want to take the necessary precautions with running the power cord for my plasma tv :D

I've reviewed the thread and see what I need to get. Basically, most everyone's recommending the following the following inlet:

http://www.twacomm.com/catalog/model_4937.htm

http://assets.twacomm.com/assets/1951947107/product_images/20679.jpg

However, for the outlet, what's the difference between this (Leviton single clock receptacle):

http://www.twacomm.com/catalog/model_5261-CH.htm?sid=7030D4E456AE390205BBCE380DEFED47

http://assets.twacomm.com/assets/1951947107/product_images/18645.jpg

and this (leviton side wired clock hanger 15Amp 125V Grounding):

http://www.twacomm.com/catalog/model_688.htm?sid=7030D4E456AE390205BBCE380DEFED47

http://assets.twacomm.com/assets/1951947107/product_images/19094.jpg

If possible, I'd like to go with the cheapest option, since I need to install 2 (one for myself, and one for a friend). Thx.

I am planning out how to do the wiring for my first projector. I will need to get an electrician to wire me an outlet in the ceiling. I would do it, but rather pay him. I have been bit to many times. I just want to make sure I am correct on what I need him to do.

He would put an regular duplex outlet in the ceiling with the wiring running to the wall behind my console. The outlet behind the console would be a male outlet similar to some of the pictures shown. I would then run a short cord from the male outlet to my surge/PSU?

Is this correct?

Merry Christmas Nhan, either one of those outlets will work. Home Depot carries the second outlet pictured, Model 688. I am actually using this outlet behind my built in Fridge but i don't remember how much HD sold it for.

Merry Christmas Nhan, either one of those outlets will work. Home Depot carries the second outlet pictured, Model 688. I am actually using this outlet behind my built in Fridge but i don't remember how much HD sold it for.

Thanks, hmcbean. I'll check HD to see what they carry, as well. Hopefully, the price will be quite a bit cheaper. If not, I'll just get the one in the third picture from that same website.

Mark:

This is EXACTLY what I have wired for my install. I've got one dead (non-powered) outlet set to the projector and one behind the screen wall (for the subs). I haven't been inspected yet, but I don't see why this won't pass.

CJ





I've installed an APC J10 (http://www.apc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=J10BLK&tab=models) which is a power conditioner/surge proector/battery backup. Like many concern was bulb lifetime and equipment protection. Retails at $499 but can be had much cheaper.

For wiring I've done following (to PJ & Subs)

APC --> 20A cord --> junction box with twist connections --> 20A Romex --> Outlet --> PJ

I don't see why this would not pass code - I guess I'll find out when I have final inspections. :eek:

Cheers,
Mark

Merry Christmas Nhan, either one of those outlets will work. Home Depot carries the second outlet pictured, Model 688. I am actually using this outlet behind my built in Fridge but i don't remember how much HD sold it for.

I got the 688 at HD for about $6.50 a pop. The total is much less than what the PB solution costs.

Let's see:

688 outlet: $6.50 (plus tax)
4937 inlet: $27.50 (shipped)....I ordered 4, so shipping remains $7.50 for all 4.
Romex (5 ft): $0.65/ft (plus tax)
2 x single old works gang box: $1.30 (plus tax)
==================
Total ~ $41


BTW, has anyone found a different solution for running wire/outlet/inlet for an on-wall light/sconce?

Hi Bud,

Try this:

DUPLEX SURGE SUPRESSION RECEPTACLE (http://www.smarthome.com/865130.HTML)

I painted mine a dark blue to match the ceiling color.

Larry

for basic surge protection is this receptacle sufficient? i have not had any power issues for the 5 years we have been in this house and "think" i just need some basic protection. the option of running the power back to the rack area is a bit over my heard. thanks.

I am rigging a temporary projector setup in a rental house and plan on running an extension cord from my projector to the surge protector/UPS. It will probably be around 25'.

Any particular gauge I should look for?

Someone recommended this to me 18 months ago, and it seems to work just fine.

Quick, easy and cheap!

$3 RCA Wall-Outlet Surge Protector:
http://www.salcon.us/info/sp200.htm


to order it, go to this page and its listed as
http://www.salcon.us/i-pwr.html

...However, for the outlet, what's the difference between this (Leviton single clock receptacle):

http://www.twacomm.com/catalog/model_5261-CH.htm?sid=7030D4E456AE390205BBCE380DEFED47
...
and this (leviton side wired clock hanger 15Amp 125V Grounding):

http://www.twacomm.com/catalog/model_688.htm?sid=7030D4E456AE390205BBCE380DEFED47
...

The difference is that the 5261-CH is industrial grade while the 688 is residential grade. I read in a Leviton brochure (can't find it now) that the industrial and hospital-grade sockets have more contact with the plug (also might be higher tension and more robust single-piece contacts if I remember right).

being an electrical noob i decided to go the powerbridge solution route. ordered from their site and it took 3 days to get to me. looks pretty straight forward. later.

A lot of work to really accomplish nothing. Solid state surge suppressors are often worse than nothing at all. When the MOV blows it can pass current along the ground line into your system and do great damage. The best surge suppression is from line conditioners that use a transformer design to isolate input current from output current.

A line conditioner will also protect gear from brownouts where the voltage drops and equipment overheats as a result. Some UPS units have the output from the inverter attached to the battery which in turn is being charged and in this way they isolate input spikes from the output to the attached devices.

For anyone putting in an expensive home theater system, and who most likely also has other valuable electronic devices in the house (computers, lighting controls, etc.) a whole house surge suppressor is a wise investment. The cost for a 100 amp panel is roughly $300 plus labor to protect EVERYTHING downstream of the panel. The nice thing is no rewiring in the house is needed and these devices really work unlike the home theater junk being sold for ridiculous amounts by the modern day equivalent of the snake oil trade.

Smarthome sells the Leviton 51120-3R whole house surge suppressor for $279 and it is designed to mount on the side of the house beside the panel. It can be installed in less than 2 hours by an electrician and protect your entire house.

I still use a UPS for the TV to protect the projector bulb during power failures to provide time for shutting it off and letting the fan run to cool it down properly, but do not depend on these to protect against surges.

I started THIS THREAD (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12828504#post12828504) that lists the actual parts (with web links) used in the PowerBridge. Save $ and easy to do!

Do you want the Actual Inlet and Outlet (and other parts) used in the PowerBridge (PB)? Your DIY project could be cheaper :D

http://www.passandseymour.com/images/products/5278SS.jpgPart #5278-SS


http://www.passandseymour.com/images/products/5251I.jpgPart #5251-W


.

but its not as pretty :).

and yes, i paid for a powerbridge.

later.

but its not as pretty :).

and yes, i paid for a powerbridge.

later.

Did you even check my thread (if you are commenting on the pics in my post above)? I have the PB and just wanted to share the exact part numbers including the manufacturer's website. You have to put the pieces together yourself (which is easy, the inlet must be attached to a standard wall plate) but it will look exactly the same as the PB. If you looked at yours closely, you will be familiar with the pics I posted.

I personally paid the $50, but someone on a tight budget may not (they could save $20-$25).

^^^^ easy.

i looked. just joking.

hence the :).

later.

^^^^ easy.

i looked. just joking.

hence the :).

later.

:D

Turbe, do you have a link of where to buy on-line? I do like that gray one.

Turbe, do you have a link of where to buy on-line? I do like that gray one.

POSTED HERE (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12839405#post12839405)

Let me know if you need me to post a picture to show how the PB is mounted to the Wall/Face Plate.....

I'm most likely going to go the Leviton route this weekend. My run will be inside a finished ceiling between the joists, then down a wall. The ceiling hole will only be big enough to accomodate the Clock Hanger outlet. A couple of questions:

1) There is no way for me to staple the romex since the ceiling and walls are finished. Can I just fish the romex or do I need the metal flex sleeve? Any other methods?

2) I plan to just walk into HD for these items (outlet, romex, inlet, boxes) - do they carry the inlet?

Audixium,

1) As far as I know, to do it according to code, you need to tear out sections of drywall to staple it every 4 ft (and within 8" of the box). Using flex conduit, same thing, but I think solid conduit can have the hangers spaced out more. Another way around this is by drilling holes through the joists (in the middle), which counts as an attachment point. That may or may not be easier in your situation.
2) It's highly unlikely that they carry an inlet - I've never seen one there. It's worth a shot to check since you can get everything else anyway, and if they don't have it, order it online.

just an FYI, but in the county i reside it is against local code to run bare Romex.

later.

ToxinLab found the Inlet for $11 at his local electrical supply house.

Fortunately I only had to run my Romex 7 ft. in a wall cavity... Just give your local City/County Building Department a call and ask... if you can speak to the proper person....

just an FYI, but in the county i reside it is against local code to run bare Romex.

later.
This was one of the many reasons I disliked living in the Chicago metro area! The ridiculous code stipulations......Indiana is so much easier!

Here's a very interesting product, for my needs its perfect!

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=105&cp_id=10425&cs_id=1042505&p_id=4006&seq=1&format=4#feedback

I'm going to run a romex cable to a octagonal box in the basement and from there to a UPS.

PB

I'm reading these threads but I am totally confused at what I need! I am going to have an electrician come out to the house soon and I want to be clear about everything I need him to do. It sounds like many of you are putting surge protected outlets on your ceiling for the PJ and then running a cable to another outlet at the rack? If this is correct, what is the best way of accomplishing this if my room is finished and drywalled?

I thought I would be okay with having him just installing a surge protected outlet on the ceiling but it sounds like I am going to need him do more than that based on some of posts I read.

The electrician is coming out tomorrow and I need to explain to him what I need and I am not 100% on how to explain what I need! LOL! I know I want a ceiling mounted surge protector for the PJ. Does that outlet need to be wired back to my rack where I may have either a Panamax or APC or even possibly a Belkin PureAV PF60 line conditioner? I am leaning more towards the APC since it adds battery backup that would keep the fan on the PJ going long enough after an outage that I could safely turn the pj off.

if you want to run the power thru the conditioner or APC then you need a set up like a powerbridge. the PJ plugs into it via an outlet on the ceiling. romex is used to "bridge" the power to an inlet at your equipment rack. from there you take a power cord and plug the female end into the inlet and the male end into your conditioner/APC. think extension cord or chekc out this link.

http://www.powerbridgesolution.com/installation.html

A cheaper solution to using the powerbridge solution is to create your own solution for a fraction of the price. Lowes sells an AC inlet. It is a special order from them but is free shipping and the cost is $7.56. Make/Model is Cooper 5278 - I just ordered 5 today. Next, you purchase a standard outlet. Finally, you get a custom plate made by Datapro which is a .net website. A double gang plate can run no more than $20. So, for less than $30 you can made yourself one vs. purchasing the powerbridge which now sells for $63.

Already covered (DIY now under $20 since I originally posted):

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=978306

:D

Already covered (DIY now under $20 since I originally posted):

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=978306

:D
Turbe;
I took your method and just last weekend (4/26/08) applied the concept to my double gang box as shown here, thx you saved me some $$ also.
Took these picts for others.

Mine had to go here, double gang box, this is the back LH corner of my A/V closet, so really nobody will see this except when accessing cables/wires via the A/V closet rear access doors:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/mtbdudex/SBz1CSE79YI/AAAAAAAAB0U/pzjImPHutTo/s400/IMG_7106.JPG

I used a double gang un-brekable receptable/sw plate as starting point, also wanted the top screw of the Leviton to be mounted firmly to the top screw of the BlueGangBox for secure mounting.
I wanted the flange mounted "inside the box", trying for a flush look, had to remove some material from each side flange for clearance to gang box inside wall and double receptable, snip snip with aviation snips.

Used a drill press to hold un-breakable double gang plate, drilled hole:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/mtbdudex/SBz09CE79VI/AAAAAAAABz4/zdsFeHsZbt8/s400/IMG_7101.JPg

The 1 1/4 spade bit I had was too small for plug to pass thru,
http://lh6.ggpht.com/mtbdudex/SBz0-iE79WI/AAAAAAAAB0A/iYjXygxbTKs/s400/IMG_7103.JPG
so I fine tuned it dia slightly larger using a router table by holding the Leviton plug behind it, ID flash to remove with red marker, grind away with the router mounter in the table.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/mtbdudex/SBz1AyE79XI/AAAAAAAAB0I/ygaLrF88FFE/s400/IMG_7105.JPG
Finished assy getting ready to mount:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/mtbdudex/SBz1DSE79ZI/AAAAAAAAB0c/G1yVHvz2QV4/s400/IMG_7107.JPG
Mounted in A/V closet (my home made movable shelf system gets mounted next week, so no gear here just yet, we are watching movies by very temp methods though):
http://lh6.ggpht.com/mtbdudex/SBz1FiE79bI/AAAAAAAAB0s/4rAvB73q6U4/s400/IMG_7114.JPG

Because I had a double receptable/sw plate to start with there was a little of the sw rectangle after cutting the hole in the plate (see router picture), forced me to use a washer on the outside portion for lower screw mtg, still very secure.

Originally was looking for a double gang plate with double receptacle on one side and blank on the other for clean look, could not find it at HD/Lowes.
For "style points" in short term I'll paint that screw head/washer white, someday in the future I might re-do the plate, 100% works fine for now so low priority.
I took a 8 foot light duty black tool extension cord and cut it down to 3 foot for nice short run from my Panamax M5300-PM (http://www.panamax.com/Products/A-V-Components/M5300-PM.aspx)

Looks good.. :D

Perhaps you can post links and/or info to where you purchased everything...

A cheaper solution to using the powerbridge solution is to create your own solution for a fraction of the price. Lowes sells an AC inlet. It is a special order from them but is free shipping and the cost is $7.56. Make/Model is Cooper 5278 - I just ordered 5 today. Next, you purchase a standard outlet. Finally, you get a custom plate made by Datapro which is a .net website. A double gang plate can run no more than $20. So, for less than $30 you can made yourself one vs. purchasing the powerbridge which now sells for $63.

Don't forget:
- PowerBridge includes the 2 old work pvc gang boxes
- PowerBridge includes a power cord
- The time you spent at Lowes
- Time tracking down and ordering from datapro
- The additional time it'll take you to assemble yours

Actually your post is what convinced me to just pay the $63 and order the PowerBridge. Thanks!

Don't forget:
- PowerBridge includes the 2 old work pvc gang boxes
- PowerBridge includes a power cord
- The time you spent at Lowes
- Time tracking down and ordering from datapro
- The additional time it'll take you to assemble yours

Actually your post is what convinced me to just pay the $63 and order the PowerBridge. Thanks!

Well, there are options.. :D

As I stated in my original Thread, I personally paid for the PowerBridge and would most likely purchase again if I needed the solution. Some have time and other priorities for their $$, some enjoy the DIY approach. :)

Has anybody tried the monoprice version of the powerbridge?
http://images.monoprice.com/productmediumimages/46521.jpg

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=105&cp_id=10425&cs_id=1042505&p_id=4652&seq=1&format=2

Great thread and read. I wanted to give it a bump and introduce an outlet I found.

MIDLITE 4642-W
http://www.amazon.com/MIDLITE-4642-W-Single-D%C3%A9cor-Recessed/dp/B002XDQAA6/ref=lh_ni_t

Perfect for your media closets and it also fits in a Decor style single plate.