I was wondering if any of you guys with Infocus X1 has had the same problem as I am having.

Over the last couple of months I have noticed a yellow band that runs across the entire right side of the image. At first it was very small, but over time it has grown to about 5% of the entire right side.

the best that I can describe it is that it is a yellowish tint that is transparent on the right side of the screen. I have cleaned the lens on the front, and have a fairly new bulb (only 200+ hours). This is apparent for all video inputs. I have somewhat been able to hide it by moving the horizontal position to the left, but then I miss some of the image.

I haven't called infocus yet to see what they say. It looks to be a pretty expensive fix if it is in the dmd chip. BTW, I have had this projector for about 2+ years and usually clean the filters regularly. I have taken it pretty far apart, but could not see any noticible problems.


I have attached some pics to show you the problem.

Cheers!!

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/billgatesceo/P1020596Small.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/billgatesceo/P1020597Small.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/billgatesceo/P1020598Small.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/billgatesceo/P1020599Small.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/billgatesceo/P1020600Small.jpg

Oh yeah...the other day I was at buffalo wild wings. They have about 6 infocus x1 that they show sports on. They had a couple that were experiencing the exact same problems as mine is.

I use this thing about 8 hours a day. I'm sure that BW3's uses it more. I am beginning to wonder if I have gotten all the goodie out of it.

Oh yeah...the other day I was at buffalo wild wings. They have about 6 infocus x1 that they show sports on. They had a couple that were experiencing the exact same problems as mine is.

I use this thing about 8 hours a day. I'm sure that BW3's uses it more. I am beginning to wonder if I have gotten all the goodie out of it.

Have you pulled out the lamp and made sure it is properly seated again? I think the housing could probably get twisted out of alignment, and possibly cause this problem. It can't hurt to try. It will give you an opportunity to clean the screen also.

I took the bulb out to see if it was seated correctly as suggested above, but to no avail it was in correct.

I did notice some burnt edges behind the color wheel on a piece that looks to be some sort of aperature for the light before it hits the dmd.

What do yall think?

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/billgatesceo/colorwheel.jpg

I called Tech Support today. Of course my pj is out of warranty. The guy was really of no help in troubleshooting the problem or being able to say whether or not he has seen the problem before. Considering that I have witnessed 3 pj with the exact same problem, it would seem to me that infocus techs would have at least an idea as to what the problem is.

He did offer $100 trade-in for my X1.

Not too sure what to do...I just bought a new bulb a couple of months ago and that bulb won't fit a 4805. I could just try to sell the bulb, but might not get much. They have refurb'd 4805 at infocus for $729. So should I tradein my pj for the $100 and get the 4805, or keep the old one and try to fix it myself? Anyone ever taken an X1 down all the way to the light engine and take it apart? I work with LCDs for a living and can completely dissassemble one of those so I'm not too worried about the difficulty.

Maybe the colourwheel is getting discoloured and causing the triggering to be off , or something shifted in the optical assembly ,worth having a better look if infocus isnt willing to help (there might be a reason why they offered the trade in ,perhaps being an easy fix). By the sound of it though it does look like heat related.

I wonder if the 'burnt' can be wiped away with a QTip and rubbing alcohol. Look for the X1 colour wheel cleaning thread.

Well I decided to disect the X1 completely. I took it completely apart down to the individual components. I took the light engine completely apart down to the DLP chip.

What I discovered is that there is a piece made up of 4 tiny mirrors used as a light guide that goes between the color wheel, and a lens before it reaches into the light engine. These four pieces are glued together to make a rectangle pipe. It looks as if they became unglued and have shifted. this causes part of the DLP chip to receive a darker area and cause the problem. I am going to try and call tech support to see if they can privide a replacement mirror assembly.

If They won't I am up to trying to fab something my self. Any ideas? I have thought about a clear plexi light pipe.

Cheers!

Oh yeah, I tried to make them line up right without any glue and made the problem worse. I will post pics of the complete dissection laterz.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/billgatesceo/P1020681Small.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/billgatesceo/P1020683Small.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/billgatesceo/P1020684Small.jpg

Oh yeah....Here are the four pieces that make up the light guide. I sent in the unit awhile ago to get the color wheel assembly replaced. It's almost like the screwed this piece up in the process. There was some pretty shady glue that should have been holding the pieces together.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/billgatesceo/P1020678Small.jpg

Great photos. Very informative.

Any update on this? My 4805 just started doing the same thing.

SP4805 would still be under warranty. Don't even think about DIY on this one unless you have an unwarranted projector you do not mind using as a doorstop.

Do you have the pics of the complete dissection yet?

Thx.

I will post the rebuild tonight!. Yeah, if it is still under warranty, don't take it apart.....if not, there really isn't too many parts to lose, and it is pretty easy to put back together.

I may be paranoid, but I think my 4805 may be starting this and would love to see your rebuild pics if you still have them. Your pictoral along with someone with some glass/glue knowledge could do well to after market this part.

Thanks for the usefual pics already and insight.

If you are unable to reassemble your current guide, or get a replacement from Infocus, do a google search for "light pipe homogenizer". Newport Corp. offers a variety of sizes.

so did you get it rebuilt...i have the same problem and it's killing me.

so did you get it rebuilt...i have the same problem and it's killing me.

I rebuilt mine (4805) and it's working great! I made pictures as I took the PJ apart and rebuilt it. I actually took more apart than I needed to, so I'll try to edit out the ones that don't matter and make a step by step disassembly/fix/re-assembly by picture here in this thread in the next few days. I looked forever for something like that and couldn't find it, so I thought I'd make my own contribution here and do it for others having the same problem.

I rebuilt mine (4805) and it's working great! I made pictures as I took the PJ apart and rebuilt it. I actually took more apart than I needed to, so I'll try to edit out the ones that don't matter and make a step by step disassembly/fix/re-assembly by picture here in this thread in the next few days. I looked forever for something like that and couldn't find it, so I thought I'd make my own contribution here and do it for others having the same problem.
Please do! That would be great as I'm facing the same repair challenge as well.

Remove lamp cover and lamp before starting disassembly. Pull the connector out and take out the 2 screws that are circled, then pull the lamp out.

http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/8053/dcp1422resizesp5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Take the 4 screws out of the bottom of the projector and pry the front cover off by using a flat blade that will fit into the vent slots on the front and undo the three clasps that I have circled (I used a thin screwdriver, but ended up breaking the clasp on the far right- as you can see). A small flashlight will help you find exactly where the clasps are.

http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/9687/dcp1420resizehw3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Remove the screws from the back panel of the projector as indicated from the red circles. There are also 3 more clasps that will need to be undone. You can see me pretending to pry on one as I try to hold the camera steady enough to take the picture. The second picture shows the exact location of the clasps and the 2 wires (yellow boxes) that needs to be disconnected. *Note the projector is flipped in the second picture*

http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/1884/dcp1419resizegm7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/9751/dcp1417resizehi3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Remove the top cover of the projector. Remove the 2 screws numbered 1 & 2 in the following picture. CAREFULLY slide the metal plate up and out toward the front of the projector, making sure not to let it contact the color wheel while you are removing it. Remove screw #3 and just push the small circuit board out of the way to continue working- no need to disconnect the wiring. Undo screws 4, 5 and 6 (next picture) and slowly remove the cover from the lens assembly area. Ignore the fact that my lens assembly has been completely removed from the projector in the second picture. That is part of the overkill in my disassembly when I was trying to find the mirror. *This is a good time to clean the lens with compressed air if you are having dust blob problems*

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/4399/dcp1416resizeka5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/8708/dcp1396resizeji8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

The screws marked #1 & 1b in the next picture hold the color wheel in place. I would suggest getting a helper to hold the color wheel assembly out of the way after you remove these screws. Don't touch the wheel itself, just handle it by the cable or metal area. Remove screw #2 carefully as well. It holds the metal bracket in place that keeps the mirror seated. There is a second screw holding the bracket in place that will be revealed when the color wheel is out of the way. Unscrew that, remove the bracket (carefully) and there is your nemesis.

http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/3669/dcp1393resizenp8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/7281/dcp1386resizesf4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

I used tweezers and Krazy Glue to fix the mirror (working fine now for over 2 months). In my case, only one side of one of the mirrors had come loose, so I just had to adjust it with the tweezers and apply a little glue to the outside edge to correct the problem. After you fix it, just reverse the steps and hopefully you will have a clear image again! I would suggest testing it before putting all the housing back together in case there is a problem (The lamp cover needs to be on for the PJ to work, though). The clasps are not easy to undo, and I had to go back in a second time to make an adjustment, which was a pain because I had everything completely back together.

http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/1210/dcp1372resizepn0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

YAY, all fixed!

http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/8061/dcp1372ht7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Keep in mind, I went by memory on the details of the disassembly, so if I left out a screw to remove here or there I'm sorry, but it will be pretty obvious when you get there. The main thing is getting past the fear of opening your PJ, knowing where the mirror is and how to get to it, which I hope this tutorial helps you do.

Good luck!

*This is a good time to clean the lens with compressed air if you are having dust blob problems*
Wow - what a great boon to X1ers! (and 4805ers) I had an X1 for 3+ years and loved it. It is now a backup to our Optoma HD70, just in case. And we're keeping to to put in the Home Theater when we sell our house.

I wanted to mention that it is my understanding that "dust blobs" are dust on the DMD chip (not the lens). They are usually put there by people who use compressed air to "clean out" their X1. We never had dust blobs. And I never used compressed air in our X1. I did use it on the filter once it was removed from the PJ. I cleaned the filters every 250 - 500 hours.

Wow - what a great boon to X1ers! (and 4805ers) I had an X1 for 3+ years and loved it. It is now a backup to our Optoma HD70, just in case. And we're keeping to to put in the Home Theater when we sell our house.

I wanted to mention that it is my understanding that "dust blobs" are dust on the DMD chip (not the lens). They are usually put there by people who use compressed air to "clean out" their X1. We never had dust blobs. And I never used compressed air in our X1. I did use it on the filter once it was removed from the PJ. I cleaned the filters every 250 - 500 hours.

There are a lot of people who have used compressed air on the lens (not the cover lens, but the larger lens that is revealed when you take off the front lens assembly or open up the top as I did to fix the light tube) and had success getting rid of the dust blobs. You do have to be careful and work in a "quiet" area, dust-wise. There are a few tutorials about that on this forum.

Yes. Many people have written that they have found dust blobs after using compressed air. The dust blobs are on the DMD chip, not the lens (inner or outer). This is what I have read here in the last 4 years. As I said I've never had dust blobs.

The X1 is not a sealed optics unit. (IDK about the 4805) Using compressed air to "clean" a PJ is usually not advised, even with a sealed optics unit. (I can see that once dust blobs are on the DMD chip one needs to take action.)
And, yes, you will find opinions on both sides of the argument.

I thought it was a good idea to warn people away from an activity that might cause problems. Just best to err on the side of caution.

Again - nice write-up on the mirror fix. :)

Thanks for the great pics and tutorial. Well done.

I have just one question. I understand that the "fuzzy yellow line" down the side of the picture is caused by one of the mirror walls starting to collapse in on the light tunnel. I've also read here that some of the folks who've tried this fix have had the light tunnel completely come apart and even break into pieces once they've removed the bracket that was holding it in.

My question is: once you've removed everything in your pictures EXCEPT the bracket holding the light tube in place, would it be smart to try to move that mirror wall back into its correct position and glue it without removing the holding bracket? Or would that be impossible to do with the bracket in place (I can't tell from the pictures)?

Seems to me if you could fix the wall without removing the bracket you'd be much less likely to have the thing fall apart on you.

You can't work on the mirror while it is in place because the bracket puts downward pressure on it and would definitely be in the way. I also read about the mirror falling apart, so I used extreme caution taking it out. I slid one of those mini screwdriver blades in and lifted it out and set it on the table with that. I never touched the mirror assembly with my hands, using a pair of tweezers and that screwdriver to prop and hold the mirror in place so I could glue it.

Thanks for that info. I'm sure I'll see exactly what you're talking about once I open mine up. :)

Remove lamp cover and lamp before starting disassembly. Pull the connector out and take out the 2 screws that are circled, then pull the lamp out.

http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/8053/dcp1422resizesp5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Take the 4 screws out of the bottom of the projector and pry the front cover off by using a flat blade that will fit into the vent slots on the front and undo the three clasps that I have circled (I used a thin screwdriver, but ended up breaking the clasp on the far right- as you can see). A small flashlight will help you find exactly where the clasps are.

http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/9687/dcp1420resizehw3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Remove the screws from the back panel of the projector as indicated from the red circles. There are also 3 more clasps that will need to be undone. You can see me pretending to pry on one as I try to hold the camera steady enough to take the picture. The second picture shows the exact location of the clasps and the 2 wires (yellow boxes) that needs to be disconnected. *Note the projector is flipped in the second picture*

http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/1884/dcp1419resizegm7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/9751/dcp1417resizehi3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Remove the top cover of the projector. Remove the 2 screws numbered 1 & 2 in the following picture. CAREFULLY slide the metal plate up and out toward the front of the projector, making sure not to let it contact the color wheel while you are removing it. Remove screw #3 and just push the small circuit board out of the way to continue working- no need to disconnect the wiring. Undo screws 4, 5 and 6 (next picture) and slowly remove the cover from the lens assembly area. Ignore the fact that my lens assembly has been completely removed from the projector in the second picture. That is part of the overkill in my disassembly when I was trying to find the mirror. *This is a good time to clean the lens with compressed air if you are having dust blob problems*

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/4399/dcp1416resizeka5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/8708/dcp1396resizeji8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

The screws marked #1 & 1b in the next picture hold the color wheel in place. I would suggest getting a helper to hold the color wheel assembly out of the way after you remove these screws. Don't touch the wheel itself, just handle it by the cable or metal area. Remove screw #2 carefully as well. It holds the metal bracket in place that keeps the mirror seated. There is a second screw holding the bracket in place that will be revealed when the color wheel is out of the way. Unscrew that, remove the bracket (carefully) and there is your nemesis.

http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/3669/dcp1393resizenp8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/7281/dcp1386resizesf4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

I used tweezers and Krazy Glue to fix the mirror (working fine now for over 2 months). In my case, only one side of one of the mirrors had come loose, so I just had to adjust it with the tweezers and apply a little glue to the outside edge to correct the problem. After you fix it, just reverse the steps and hopefully you will have a clear image again! I would suggest testing it before putting all the housing back together in case there is a problem (The lamp cover needs to be on for the PJ to work, though). The clasps are not easy to undo, and I had to go back in a second time to make an adjustment, which was a pain because I had everything completely back together.

http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/1210/dcp1372resizepn0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

YAY, all fixed!

http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/8061/dcp1372ht7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Keep in mind, I went by memory on the details of the disassembly, so if I left out a screw to remove here or there I'm sorry, but it will be pretty obvious when you get there. The main thing is getting past the fear of opening your PJ, knowing where the mirror is and how to get to it, which I hope this tutorial helps you do.

Good luck!
Thanks for all the great info. But could you please explain about the adjustment you had to make ( I had to go back in a second time to make an adjustment)? I also had just one of the four mirrors to fix, but after I completed the Operation I still had the same problem. Help.

Thanks for the detailed info and all the great pictures. I followed your instructions but still had the problem after everything was reassembled.
You mentioned something about going back a second time and making some adjustment. Please explain what these adjustment were all about. (I had to go back in a second time to make an adjustment,).
Thank you

Ok, what about if you break the light tube? I was following these instructions and while holding the 3 still attached pieces, I dropped it and cracked one of the pieces. Any options from here? It would suck to have to get rid of this thing (x2 but same problem) for a piece that is probably only worth a dollar or so.

Not to beat a dead horse - that's what my 4805 is starting to look like - but has anyone refined the light tube repair technique to the point where it works the first time? Or better yet, has anyone found a source for the part? I've given up on inFocus, they still claim to not know what I'm talking about.

Not to beat a dead horse - that's what my 4805 is starting to look like - but has anyone refined the light tube repair technique to the point where it works the first time? Or better yet, has anyone found a source for the part? I've given up on inFocus, they still claim to not know what I'm talking about.
It would have worked fine for me the first time, except that I had some dried glue on the side of the mirror that faced down so it didn't seat perfectly. When I turned the light tube over, all was well. It has been working now for over 6 months since the initial problem.

I had two problems
1. The discoloration on the right side of the screen
2. A big ugly dust spot in the upper right

I tore into my porj. clued one side of the mirror assy that came loose and cleaned the dust out and its back as good as gold

NOTE: I suspect this mirror thing is a manf. defect where the adhesive just does not stand the test of time where heat is concerned.

Not to beat a dead horse - that's what my 4805 is starting to look like - but has anyone refined the light tube repair technique to the point where it works the first time? Or better yet, has anyone found a source for the part? I've given up on inFocus, they still claim to not know what I'm talking about.

This problem has been adressed in the 4805 thread, lots of luck trying to find it in the 1000 or so pages.

Thanks for the great instructions. I just performed this operation on my X3. It's working as good as new now.

Discovered that my lens compartment was filthy while I was in there. Now that it is clean the image is a lot brighter and sharper.

If anyone else is having this problem and doesn't want to attempt the repair on their own I'd be willing to fix for a reasonable fee. Just email me.

Thanks again.

OK guys, this is my first time posting, but I've read for a long time. I had the same problem with my 4805 and took it apart last night to fix it (great instructions on this thread, BTW). Anyway, I screwed it up worse with a sub-par glue job. I accidentally got krazy glue on the mirrors themselves (that stuff is like water, I don't know how you all did it). I tried to line the mirrors up as best as I could but apparently didn't do such a great job because now I've got the original yellow line on the right side plus a new, uglier line on the left.

It may be time to call it quits and upgrade, but I am really tempted to try it again. Is there a way to clean Krazy glue off of the mirrors without damaging them? Also, any suggestions for getting the glue on without screwing it up the way I did? Can I somehow line the mirrors up and just glue from the outside?

Any help is appreciated.

I think acetone (nail polish remover) is suppose to work on super glue.

Yes, you should glue the mirrors from the outside. Hopefully you have at least two peices still together so you can see how they are offset. I think it something like
_XXXXX
X_____X
X_____X
X_____X
X_____X
X_____X
_XXXXX
Where the glue goes along corner edges.

Also, make sure that the mirror side of the glass ends up on the inside.

Thank you for the prompt reply...I'll give it a shot.

Thanks to all for their contributions to this fix.

My only question is: how do you remove the grey focus/zoom ring from the projector. It seems that this needs to come off before I remove the front panel. Does it just pop off with a flat head screw driver? I tried that, but it seems really stuck on there, and I don't want to ruin the lens. Thanks.

Never mind. I figured it out. You need to pop off the first grey ring (the focus ring), using a small flat head screwdriver. Then, I found that it was easier to remove the top of the projector. Finally, I was able to remove the second grey ring (the zoom ring), by popping it off with a flat head again, after I had removed the top of the projector. Then, I could finally take away the front panel. (I am working with an X1, by the way.)

Wow, just finished this fix. It worked great! Thanks everyone!

One thing I wanted to mention regarding this fix for the X1. When I re-assembled everything, I heard something clacking around in the projector. I opened it up, and found that a small square lense had fallen out.

After looking around, I found that it is a lense that must be inserted in the "small circuit board" (as the instructions describe it). On the X1, this "small circuit board" contains a housing for a light bulb next to which you must insert this square panel. I put just a touch of super glue on the top of the square lense, then I used tweezers to insert it into the slot next to the bulb. Then I screwed down the "small circuit board".

Just wanted to mention this in case anyone has a problem. Thanks again for the directions. I was about to trash my X1, but now it lives on!

My light wheel came apart it is in 4 perfect pieces is it possible to put it back together? If not does anyone know where I can buy one and how to replace it? I can't figure out how to undo the circle part that it attaches to - it has a cord on it that goes underneath the motherboard (probably connects to it?)
All I was trying to do was fix the mirror problem and now I have no love at all...

HELP!

I am so grateful for the breakdown and pics on how to fix the light tunnel. I am going to give it a shot and keep my fingers crossed. This is so great!:)

I have one last question before I attempt this big repair job on my 4805 light tunnel. What is the best type of glue to use on the light tunnel? Thanks

I have one last question before I attempt this big repair job on my 4805 light tunnel. What is the best type of glue to use on the light tunnel? Thanks

I have one last question before I attempt this big repair job on my 4805 light tunnel. What is the best type of glue to use on the light tunnel? Thanks
Did you read the 1st page of this thread? A lot of detail (photos and instructions) is there. Crazy glue is mentioned but I don't know for certain that it is best. I remember there were a couple of threads on this subject. Some of them might be in the archives.

Good luck.

I used Crazy Glue and it held fine. I no longer have the projector, but my brother-in-law does and it's still working.

I used crazy glue also. Be careful because it is very drippy. You should have a paper towel handy to absorb some if you squeeze on too much.

For some reason my glue didn't dry very fast. At one point I put small droplets of water on it which seemed to help. (I think crazy glue drys when it is exposed to the moisture in the air).

When I fixed mine, I wasn't able to perfectly align the mirrors, however I still get a fine picture. I can't tell that it looks any different than it originally did. So I wouldn't worry if you don't have absoultely perfect alignment of the mirrors.

By the way, I don't think there's any way of opening the projector without damaging the case, so be forewarned.

There are also gel-type versions of super glue available that do not run.

Actually, I believe crazy glue, or cyanoacrylit (sp?) cures in the absence of oxygen. When you put the water on it you starved it of oxygen and allowed it to cure. I'm going to try the fix with the gel-type crazy glue.

Any advice for an owner of four cats? I thought I'd vaccuum real well and then wait a few hours for the dust to settle.

Before I attempted this repair, I called a local mirror and glass shop. They recommended using RTV Silicone. It can be purchased at an auto supply store. It is typically used to bond parts in engines and can withstand very high heat.

I bought the tube below for approx $5.00
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r111/DIYGuy/x2/X2LightTube_s_0313.jpg

It is an EXCELLENT substance to work with. It almost has the consistency of toothpase. I was able to apply it easily with a very controlled spread. In addition, it is gray so I knew exactly where it was being applied.

I would recommend using a toothpick to apply the RTV Silicone. Start with very small amounts and spread it in the joints of the light tube.
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r111/DIYGuy/x2/X2LightTube_s_0307.jpg



As per jikkme's post above (post #31), you want to make sure that there is no extra adhesive which will cause the light tube to sit improperly, causing the same dark band (or a new one on the top or bottom). Therefore, what you'll want to do is remove any excess adhesive. Take the side of your toothpick and run it along your seam. If you find that there is a lot of extra adhesive, I would suggest doing a small section at a time so that the extra adhesive doesn't smear onto the sides of your light tube.
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r111/DIYGuy/x2/X2LightTube_s_0308v2.jpg



And here's the finished tube...
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r111/DIYGuy/x2/X2LightTube_s_0303.jpg



EXTRA TIPS

REMOVING LENS RINGS
See SuperGoop's thread on fixing dust blobs for a great pictorial/tutorial on removing the focus and zoom rings (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=556431). After you get them off, come back to this thread because you do not need to remove the lens to repair the light tube.

COLOR WHEEL
If you are doing this repair alone, it would help to fashion a "hanging device" to hold the color wheel. I used a standard sized paperclip and using needle nosed pliers, I fish-hooked one end so that it could hook into a screw hole in the color wheel mounting plate. I hooked the other end on a nearby metal cover. I only bent this second end of the paperclip 45 degrees so that it would be easy to unhook. The paperclip is just the right length.
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r111/DIYGuy/x2/X2LightTube_s_0312v2.jpg

Be VERY CAREFUL moving and working around the color wheel.
Something went wrong with my re-assembly and when I fired up the projector to test, something caught the wheel and a piece came off. Fortunately, it was only one piece of the wheel that flew off and it didn't crack (*whew!*), so I was able to crazy glue it back on the wheel cylinder. In inspecting the broken piece, I noticed dried adhesive on the one side, so I just re-applied fresh crazy glue and kept my fingers crossed. I would strongly recommend using the crazy glue with a brush applicator. Worked beautifully!

MANAGING PARTS AND PIECES
There are a lot of parts and peices that you'll be removing, and many screws look the same. Using a small pad of paper, I labeled the screws by name and used jikkme's numbers from his tutorial to easily remember what's what. Each step had its own paper. It may seem like overkill, but it really helped speed up the re-assembly.
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r111/DIYGuy/x2/X2LightTube_s_0316v2.jpg
Also, be very careful tightening the screws. The screw that holds the small circuit board on top of the color wheel mounting plate snapped off as I was tightening. I had to make a custom fastener by bending a paperclip. (hooray for paperclips!)

RE-ASSEMBLY
(photo from billgatesceo's post #8)
To give yourself the best chance of completing this repair successfully the first time, I offer this final tip. Make one final check before re-assembly. Replace your light tube and screw down the bracket. Then look at it from the direction that the arrow is pointing (see photo below). Make sure that your light tube is lined up as close as possible to the rectangle opening so that you can barely see the edges, if at all. This will ensure that your tube is seated properly. If your projector is still relatively in one piece and upright, you will have to look through the empty bulb compartment for the correct view.
(NOTE: In the photo, billgatesceo's projector is disassembled farther than you will need to go for this repair).
Unfortunately, I and a few others in this thread had to disassamble again to re-seat the tube. In my case, the top of the box was peeking out a little too much from under the rectangle cut-out on the bracket, therefore blocking the light, causing a dark band on the top rather than the side where it started. Since I was very careful in applying the adhesive, I was certain there wasn't any extra causing it to sit improperly. So, I simply flipped the box vertically (so the top became the bottom) and it lined up perfectly!
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r111/DIYGuy/x2/P1020684SmallV2.jpg



Everything is re-assembled and working perfectly!
So take your time and don't worry.
I'm not a repairman and I have little to no experience with anything like this.
If you follow the advice in this forum, it's a relatively simple process that anyone with a little time and patience can accomplish.

All the best!

Thanks for the excellent report Futureboy. With your efforts, and the others who have posted step by step instructions, my X-1 may yet last long enough to be replaced with a bulbless projector such as the PhlatLight units scheduled for late '08.

How do you get the dang focus rings back on?
T

BTW - the fixed worked for me too. And I have not clue how to do this type of thing.
Thank you

The zoom ring, which goes on first, has a tiny tab that engages a notch on the lens barrel. The focus ring goes on next, align the three tabs with the spaces in the zoom ring.

I recently came across a X2 that I replaced for a customer with the same problem. We replaced it with a new projector and I took the dead one home to play with. After finding the light pipe and reading these articles, I found the mirror was too badly burned to get a clean picture out of. After searching for 1mm thick mirror to build a new one, I gave up with only finding 2mm or larger mirror material. I turned to my dremel polishing kit and some thin sheet aluminum that I had laying around. I polished the aluminum to a mirror finish, cut it down to the same length as the mirror and used a piece of scrap wood that was close to the same dimensions and a vise to form the now aluminum mirror into a very similar shape as the original mirror. After installing in the projector and testing, everything looks good again, there are some slight discolorations in a couple spots which I'm sure is because it wasn't a perfect mirror, but it works for me. I may rebuild it again with some better aluminum sheeting before I install it in my living room, but as far as I can tell it doens't need to be perfect, just close.

Thanks all of you guys, i just fixed my X2 with these excellent instructions. If you ever visit Holland I buy you all beers (and maybe something else??)

Is there any member living in N.Va who has done this? With my handyman skills....I am really worried about opening this PJ up and performing this task.

I would appreciate it if someone who has gone through this before was able to help, just by observing the process while I attempt to fix it.

Please PM me if you live in N.Va and can help.

If anyone is around this time of the day...I am currently doing the light tunnel repair and have gotten to the point where I finally have the tube in front of me....the thing had collapsed inside.

my question to you guys is - do i need to clean the mirrors from the inside with some kind of solution or water before I put the krazy glue around the edges?
I see on two of the pieces the edges have either glue on them or they are burnt as they seem yellow and inside the mirrors there are some scratches and such as well. Do I simply need to glue the tube back or should I attempt any cleaning of the mirrors?

Btw, I am handling them using my hands as I think the tweezers I am using will probably only scratch them more.....if they do, will it make a difference?

It is even hard to tell which side goes inwards as to me, both sides look alike.

Hope someone is still awake to respond......can really use some advice.

I am having the same issues as everyone else. I also now have the white line going down the middle. I have company coming in 3 weeks and can not get in focus to even return my calls. I say let's go the news paper ( smile) Any way bought a new bulb and got one hour use and down it went. Now I have paid for 2 different tech's who say they know projectors to come to my house and say. You just need a new projector? I refuse to believe that. Is this a scam? I noticed that alot of you got to use your PJ for the first 3000 hours and after that it started the 'Yellow band and of course needed the new bulb. I have a new direct line number to the district person who is out of Tampa fla. I have called him and he sells alot to projector people. That's where I bought my bulb. They said they will try to help. That was over 2 weeks ago. But I am not quitting my calls. I think it is a flaw with in focus and I think they know it. Maybe if all of us call this JAY from in focus we may get some where. Thanks for letting me vent.

If you have a white line going down or across and it is defined by the pixels, you have a problem that is not easily corrected. That symptom is indicative of failure, either in the imaging display itself or the imaging processor. There is a small chance that the fault could be a bad connection between the board and the display module or with the solder connections themselves which are very tiny and easily destroyed.

As far as the yellow band and a new lamp, it has been said repeatedly, there is no way a lamp will be responsible for ANY image problem OTHER than reduced brightness/contrast. A yellowish band on one side is the light tunnel failing. If the image is B&W, that is the color wheel that has failed. And so on. So many people see problems and think that a new lamp will solve it and it won't.

Thanks all!!!! I found this thread through google last night after my pj suddenly went half black. I was able to completely rebuild my light tunnel iand dismantle / reassembe in less than an hour. The fix is quick and the pics make it super easy. Believe me, I'm not the small parts type of guy, just a salesmen.

p.s. only two pieces were still together, lol.

So I had this problem, followed all the steps, got everything apart, and got the light tunnel out. I placed it on a mat on my table, ready to repair it, and my dog hit the mat (part of it was hanging off), sending the tube flying across the room, finally landing on the hard wood floor, shattering. Sigh. I called infocus, and they wont sell me the part and said I can send the projector in for repair for $130...oh well...

If anyone ever finds where to get this part or something that will work, let me know.

So thanks to all for all of the information in this thread - had the "yellowish band on the right side of the screen" problem show up a few weeks ago - did some research and became all too familiar with the phrase "4805 light tunnel adhesive problem". I'm not super talented when it comes to this kind of stuff, but thanks to all the posts and pictures, I was able to fix my projector with a $4.50 2-part epoxy purchase and a couple of hours of my time. Got it all put back together, and it looks great.

Austin - while I was looking around at various sites, one person on another forum mentioned they were able to order the light tunnel for about $20 from http://online.projectordoctor.com/ just a month or two ago - but I don't see the part listed on their site. Might be worth an email, though...

Hello! I'm from Brazil and this is my first post.

It's just to say THANK YOU for this nice tutorial !! :)

Yesterday I could fix this issue. I'd like to add that my mirrors (from the "light pipe") are burn on the sides close to the lamp, but in good shape on the other side. So, I just flipped it (now the "good side" close to the lamp). And yes, I have to desmount 2 times, the first time it looked a lot worst (2 black bars!) and the second time, just perfectly! :cool:

Hi All

I am in the process of doing the lite tube repair on my 4805, great instructions and pictures BTW.
I feel confident I can do it myself.

The choice of glues is RTV Silicon or Crazy Glue.

I have one question for those who have done the repair.

Does anyone have any good or bad experineces of either glue?

Anyone have problems with the glue or silicon not holding long term?

bump ........ hoping someone can answer?

Use the "crazy glue". Use the glue sparingly. You do not want any excess to interfere with the retaining clip.

If you have never been inside the projector, use extreme caution when handling the color wheel, which must be moved to get to the light tunnel. It is very fragile and easily broken. It is not necessary to unplug the color wheel, which would require a LOT more disassembly, just carefully place it out of the way.

And make sure that the sides are NOT flush with the top and bottom.The end profile should look like this...

Use the "crazy glue". Use the glue sparingly. You do not want any excess to interfere with the retaining clip.

If you have never been inside the projector, use extreme caution when handling the color wheel, which must be moved to get to the light tunnel. It is very fragile and easily broken. It is not necessary to unplug the color wheel, which would require a LOT more disassembly, just carefully place it out of the way.

And make sure that the sides are NOT flush with the top and bottom.The end profile should look like this...

Hi

Thanks for the reply/advice and the image. That is very helpful.
I will stick with what is proven (i.e. the crazy glue)
It looks from the instructions that one of trickier things is removing the lens rings. Hopefully it will go smoothly.

Thanks again.

Removing the rings is not hard. Use a screwdriver or some other tool as a prybar. Pry each ring off a segment at a time. IOW, pry a little, rotate the ring, pry some more. Work them off evenly. They are only a press-fit on the barrel. Note the locating tabs when replacing them.

Hi

As an update I just completed it all this evening with perfect results.

The trickest part was actually gluing the mirrors.

2 of the 4 were disconnected, if all 4 were disconnected it would have been really tricky to do on the kitchen table.

I didnt do a great job of gluing but it was fairly straight and works perfectly after I fired it up.

Thanks for everyone for the instructions and advice.

I couldnt have done it without you. :D

Sorry for being off topic here, but I'm surprised to see people (like me) still hanging on to an X1. I'm even more surprised to see people (unlike me) still using an X1.

What's an X1 worth these days? I got one in prime condition just sitting there, most of the lamp life still left. I kind of held onto it thinking it would never find a home these days, but maybe it'd serve some better purpose than decorating my ceiling.

There's something cool about an X1 owner's thrft/enginuity. :) I haven't taken apart mine for any reason, but it did inspire me to build my own panamorphic lens and make my own acoustic panels and such.

My newer Sharp (which I love) hasn't so much as inspired me to build walls for the room. Ah, I guess no romance is like the first.

The guy who polished a piece of aluminum to use in his light tube...lol...wow, kudos. I have this idea that everybody in this thread would be awesome to have a beer with.

At first sorry about my poor english language. I´m brazilian and I don´t speak english very well. what kind of glue did you use. Do you remember the brand of this glue? Is it easy to remove the old glue? Do you have anything about clean the color wheel. Before hand, thank for all.
p.s: I have a infocus 4805 projector.

At first sorry about my poor english language. I´m brazilian and I don´t speak english very well. what kind of glue did you use. Do you remember the brand of this glue? Is it easy to remove the old glue? Do you have anything about clean the color wheel. Before hand, thank for all.
p.s: I have a infocus 4805 projector.

I used this brand of glue, but I think the gel version would be better:

http://www.krazyglue.com/products/product_detail.asp?pc=KG585&g=12

I think you can probably use any type of strong glue (gorilla glue, super glue), it shouldn't matter very much.

My X1 is still going strong after this light mirror fix which I did about a year ago!

I first want to thank everyone for their posts and help getting inside my X3. i just finished up with repair on the mirror with superglue and many tweezers and put it back together. well when I fired her up it was still the same...no change of the dark band on the side. so i went back in and opened it up exposing the light tunnel (it's amazing how fast you can get to it a second time after doing it once before) and flipped it thinking maybe it was burnt and that by switching the position of the light tunnel would cause the band to be on the opposide side of the screen. well then i put her back together again and fired it up...same thing on the same side. Very strange. i'm not sure what to do now and if it could be something else besides the mirrors because they are now fixed. any suggestions?!?!? thanks!

It can only be the light tunnel. The problem is, the pieces are not in perfect alignment. The sides are not flush with the top and bottom. See this illustration I included. This is how the ends should look when glued together. This is why I recommend replacing it, rather than repairing.

thanks for the update. how do I replace it? where do i get one from? i've seen people make their own, but I'd have no idea how to do that and it would be much easier to just buy one. any ideas? thanks again!

I normally keep those parts on hand, but I'm out right now. I'll be checking with my parts supplier today to see if they have any in stock and order more.

thanks for the update. how do I replace it? where do i get one from? i've seen people make their own, but I'd have no idea how to do that and it would be much easier to just buy one. any ideas? thanks again!

Just finished this on my X2 and it works great again. We used Loctite Super Gel.

Thanks for all the info. I will be trying this on my SP4805 later this weekend. I have only a little discoloration. It's on the left edge, and on a 1024x768 desktop stretched out (proj is widescreen) the discoloration only affects the first column of icons, and they are still visible, just dark/discolored.

I expect only 1 of the 4 pieces of the tunnel has moved, so hoping for an easy fix. I wonder if I should reinforce the other corners of the tunnel with a little gel super glue while I am in there. I'll post with the results.

It wouldn't hurt to reinforce the other corners. What you don't want to do is put so much goo on the tunnel that it affects how it sits in the cradle. And above all else..handle the color wheel with extreme care. It is very fragile and will break if you look at it cross-eyed. And gluing the tunnel back together, you should be aware that the sides are NOT flush with each other. Look at the end viewing I have attached. The tunnel MUST look like this or you will have shadowed image on BOTH sides.

Oh, and if you change your mind about repairing the tunnel and want to replace it, I have a new 4805 tunnel on hand. Otherwise, good luck with your repair.

Thanks for all the info. I will be trying this on my SP4805 later this weekend. I have only a little discoloration. It's on the left edge, and on a 1024x768 desktop stretched out (proj is widescreen) the discoloration only affects the first column of icons, and they are still visible, just dark/discolored.

I expect only 1 of the 4 pieces of the tunnel has moved, so hoping for an easy fix. I wonder if I should reinforce the other corners of the tunnel with a little gel super glue while I am in there. I'll post with the results.

"Oh, and if you change your mind about repairing the tunnel and want to replace it, I have a new 4805 tunnel on hand. Otherwise, good luck with your repair."
Is the 4805 tunnel compatible with the x1a? iF SO I'LL BE HAPPY TO BY THAT ONE FROM YOU

They have different part numbers, but as far as I can see, they are physically identical.

Now, the color wheels are not the same.

Hi Sheridan;
I need a light tunnel for my X1a. For how much would you sell the one you have for?

It worked well, I broke a tab getting the front panel off but then used a paper clip through the vent to push the tab and the back panel was easier. The light tunnel was still intact but some glue was loose and then BOOM why am I holding this thing in my big fat fingers and not tweezers and it's in 3 pieces (2 stayed together) so it was a bit more challenging than I hoped having to line up the pieces from scratch. I was super careful with the color wheel but it did barely bump the sides when i had to move it but I was going really slow. thanks avs

Is the X1 light engine compatible with an X1a?

No difference.

Is the X1 light engine compatible with an X1a?

Thanks for the great instructions.

My light tube was so fragile that it came apart into 4 pieces so be careful.

I also lost 2 color wheel segments during the repair and re-glued them. In case anybody needs to know - the segments are symmetric (not always obvious when more than one segment is missing).

Krazy Glue Gel seems to be easy enough to work with.

I'm thrilled with my repair. I couldn't have done it without these great instructions and the feedback from everybody here on AVS.

Thank-you ALL!

Where can I buy a brand new light tube?

For which projector?

Where can I buy a brand new light tube?

Ok, here's a little more info for anyone who had trouble doing this and still having a dark line on the side of their picture:

I ripped my 4805 apart and of course my light tunnel was in 3 pieces. I didnt realize it wasnt supposed to be a perfect rectangle so I of course lined the pieces up so that at least on the one side, the pieces met perfectly with no overlap - like there's supposed to be. Well of course that left me still having my dark line, no matter whether I switched it upside down or not, and I was frustrated. After reading this whole thread (which I didnt do the first time, I assumed what was on the 1st page was enough, thought maybe the 2nd and 3rd pages were thanks and all the rest), I realized it was supposed to be shaped funny with some overlap (someone on here provided an awesome pic), so I had already krazy glued this sucker together like fort knox, so this was gonna be a problem. I basically broke it apart gently by prying it apart with one of the tweezers i was using. Of course I broke one of the mirrors right in half, which was a super-bummer. Anyways, once apart I glued that mirror back together hoping for the best, then glued the remaining piece in so that it was shaped the way it was supposed to be shaped. Finally, I figured I would have a satisfying picture again, and life would be good. Of course not. I overglued this baby so badly that my picture was still experiencing a little darkness in the top left and the bottom right. I switched it upside down, the same, then I sanded off some glue, and it got worse!! Then I switched it upside down again, the same result, then I sanded each outter panel of each mirror to a (you guessed it) mirror finish, and voila! No more darkness anywhere, life is good.

Moral of the story: If you're one of the people who tried this and didnt get the result - you put on too much glue or you probably made it into a perfectly edged rectangle. Dont do either, but if you do, then sand off the extra glue or break it apart (there's probably glue solvents out there but it was late and I was already mad) and get it back together again in the right shape without any extra glue on it. It works.

Thanks to all for posting this info up, if it werent for you I'd have thrown my projector in the garbage and bought something not made by In Focus. This is the 3rd time my projector has needed to be fixed (first two times were color wheel failures of some sort, but covered under warranty thankfully). Lame.

For which projector?

If you know of a place that sells em for a 4805, lemme know, even though I found a way to fix mine, who knows maybe I'll need one in the future or someone else who reads this thread.

FOR IN FOCUS 4805

-Brand new bulb with 3 hours on it $190.

-In Focus 4805 projector - needs a new color wheel, I chipped one of the segments while removing to fix the light tunnel. The light tunnel has been repaired. Perhaps someone who broke their light tunnel into 4 pieces wants a donor projector for parts? This would give them a working light tunnel and a spare everything except the color wheel. $100

Email dustinkalthoff@gmail.com

Thanks.

Too bad. A new color wheel is about $170 and the light tunnel is about $60.

FOR IN FOCUS 4805

-Brand new bulb with 3 hours on it $190.

-In Focus 4805 projector - needs a new color wheel, I chipped one of the segments while removing to fix the light tunnel. The light tunnel has been repaired. Perhaps someone who broke their light tunnel into 4 pieces wants a donor projector for parts? This would give them a working light tunnel and a spare everything except the color wheel. $100

Email dustinkalthoff@gmail.com

Thanks.

And you can buy these parts where? I've been told In Focus only sells the parts if they also install them, and then it's completely cost-prohibitive.

Does anyone have a 4805 with an unusable light tunnel? I would be happy to buy your color wheel if it's in excellent shape...or even if you have only one blue segnment in good shape, thats all I need and I'd have no problem gluing it into my color wheel.

They're available to repair techs.

Meh, there's no way I would pay $170 for a color wheel anyways. I'm just gonna buy something new.

New price for projector w/chipped color wheel: $50

Anyone want the 10m (30ft) M1 to DVI cable? It retailed for $1xx.00 when i bought it if I remember correctly, so I dunno, $20? (M1 is the wide connector on the back, if you dont know what DVI is I'm not gonna explain)

Bulb still for sale for $190. Cheaper than ebay by around $35 and it's only got 3 hours on it.

dustinkalthoff@gmail.com

I have diminished considerably the brown ribbow in my 4805. However, I broke the color wheel. So my advice: use a staple or a friend, but REALLY take serious care of the color wheel part - it is ultra-sensitive. (I glued mine with crazy glue and it worked again).

thank you so much for the tutorial, it solved the problem and is totally doable - but remember the risk of bricking the projector!

mine is on the bay...as is. did chk light tube...it's intact/together. Color wheel came apart...ooohhhhhhh! Lamp not included...but avail.