We have that in our kitchen ..... looks great and does not show finger prints and other debris.......sometime you look at it and think is spotless and then run your hand over it and can feel its dirty.

Good choice

Mark -- good to know that others have the same color and like it :)

Well, here it is installed. The biggest thing was the smell from the epoxy they used to attach the sink. I think they used liquid nail as well to attach the counter top to the cabinet. The whole house had a very pungent odor for about 4 hours. You can still smell it but it is no where near as strong.

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-CounterInstalled.JPG

Now I need to get the wife to decide on the handle size. She can't decide between the 3.5" or 5" wide handles. She's been busy lately so she has not had a chance to decide.

Mark -- good to know that others have the same color and like it :)

Well, here it is installed. The biggest thing was the smell from the epoxy they used to attach the sink. I think they used liquid nail as well to attach the counter top to the cabinet. The whole house had a very pungent odor for about 4 hours. You can still smell it but it is no where near as strong.

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-CounterInstalled.JPG

Now I need to get the wife to decide on the handle size. She can't decide between the 3.5" or 5" wide handles. She's been busy lately so she has not had a chance to decide.

Oh and the beautiful faucet I ordered ended up being the wrong one. I mistakenly ordered the one for kitchen sinks vs for bar/prep stations. It is HUGE and completely takes over. If anyone is interested in a BRAND NEW Delta SS faucet with a pull-out, let me know. They retail for over $350 (sold on the Internet for about $240 + shipping). I'm willing to take a hit and sell it for $200 shipped. PM me if you are interested. You can see my craigslist listing HERE (http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/hsh/923388658.html).


Looks good! Plans for a back splash?

Looks good! Plans for a back splash?
Yes I do. We're still figuring out what we want to do. There will be (3) upper cabinets with glass fronts and glass shelves. The "plan" is to incorporate some acoustical panels into the backsplash to absorb 1st reflections from the room and noise from the fridge and equipment rack.

I have not been able to get 5 min with the wife to make a final decision on it as of yet. She's got me working on a guest bathroom right now. I pulled out the "builder" mirror and will be replacing it with a nice framed mirror. The time consuming part is I had to move the light up about 6" to accommodate the taller mirror. I put the 2nd coat of mud on the patched hole this morning and plan to add the texture this eve. Hopefully I can get it painted and hung tomorrow.

I want to get this done so I can get back on the upper cabinets. I think the cabinets are going to add a lot of punch to the wet bar area.

Yes I do. We're still figuring out what we want to do. There will be (3) upper cabinets with glass fronts and glass shelves. The "plan" is to incorporate some acoustical panels into the backsplash to absorb 1st reflections from the room and noise from the fridge and equipment rack.

I have not been able to get 5 min with the wife to make a final decision on it as of yet. She's got me working on a guest bathroom right now. I pulled out the "builder" mirror and will be replacing it with a nice framed mirror. The time consuming part is I had to move the light up about 6" to accommodate the taller mirror. I put the 2nd coat of mud on the patched hole this morning and plan to add the texture this eve. Hopefully I can get it painted and hung tomorrow.

I want to get this done so I can get back on the upper cabinets. I think the cabinets are going to add a lot of punch to the wet bar area.

Don't forget the bass traps! Did you put sand in behind the toe kicks? Line the inside of the cabinets with linacoustic? :D

Maybe you could just fill all of the cabinets with sand? That's adding a LOT of sound-deadening mass....and when the cat needs to go to the bathroom, you can just open a drawer...and plop. :D

You can still smell it but it is no where near as strong.



That's cuz you are now high... ;)

Maybe you could just fill all of the cabinets with sand? That's adding a LOT of sound-deadening mass....and when the cat needs to go to the bathroom, you can just open a drawer...and plop. :D
Kidding aside, I normally do fill any open cavity with insulation. I forgot to fill the kick on the WB cabinet. Oh well, let's make sure not to let bpape know about it or he might assign me a hefty fine ;)

That's cuz you are now high... ;)
Either that or all the beer that I drank while I watched the guys carry the 250lb+ piece of granite up the stairs. They were huffing and puffing once they finally got into the media room.

Either that or all the beer that I drank while I watched the guys carry the 250lb+ piece of granite up the stairs. They were huffing and puffing once they finally got into the media room.


Did you at least throw up an HD version of "Home Improvement" on the big screen for them to watch :D

Did you at least throw up an HD version of "Home Improvement" on the big screen for them to watch :D
LOL! I think all the guys wanted was a cold beer and to go home. I was looking at it last night and am still very pleased with the install. They are going to come back after the holiday and drill the holes for the faucet. I asked them to hold off until I received the replacement faucet (due early next week).

ATTN Woodworkers

I am in the market for a Joiner (plan to use it to make my upper cabinet doors). I was looking at the Dewalt DW682KR (http://www.amazon.com/Factory-Reconditioned-DEWALT-DW682KR-Plate-Joiner/dp/B000040JOM/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1227632992&sr=1-7) but wanted to get some recommendations from anyone that might "love" or "hate" theirs.

Thanks!

Hey Steve! Long time no AVS'en for me :) Been off the HT net for awhile. Got sucked into motorcycles and couldn't get motivated to get back to my theater (oh I use it all the time, just no construction).

Anyway, funny that you should have this question as I've been looking at getting one myself. I've borrowed both the Porter Cable joiner as well as the Dewalt (don't know if it's the same model # or not) but I can tell you that I was pleased with both models. Easy as pie to use and did exactly what I wanted it to.

Have you taken a peek at your local Craigslist? Around here there are more tools for sale than you can shake a stick at! I think the economy is killing people and they're dumping good tools for great prices. I'd easily add Makita to your list of tool brands.

Later,
Mike

ATTN Woodworkers

I am in the market for a Joiner (plan to use it to make my upper cabinet doors). I was looking at the Dewalt DW682KR (http://www.amazon.com/Factory-Reconditioned-DEWALT-DW682KR-Plate-Joiner/dp/B000040JOM/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1227632992&sr=1-7) but wanted to get some recommendations from anyone that might "love" or "hate" theirs.

Thanks!

I have a Porter Cable 557 probably 4-5 years old. Love it -- Recommended -- but it's more expensive than the dewalt. It comes with both a regular blade (for 20,10, 0 size biscuits) and smaller blade that can be used when you need something even smaller than 0. I've used the smaller blade more than I would have thought (e.g., reinforcing miter joints on picture frames).

ATTN Woodworkers

I am in the market for a Joiner (plan to use it to make my upper cabinet doors). I was looking at the Dewalt DW682KR (http://www.amazon.com/Factory-Reconditioned-DEWALT-DW682KR-Plate-Joiner/dp/B000040JOM/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1227632992&sr=1-7) but wanted to get some recommendations from anyone that might "love" or "hate" theirs.

Thanks!

Steve,

I have a Ryobi that I bought used on eBay. I used it when I was building my light tray. Super simple and accurate. Which is important when a dummy like me is using it. Although way cheaper than the others mentioned, it worked like a charm for me.

BTW, thanks again for the inspiration you gave me. I'm 90% done with my HT and I'm enjoying movies now. Nobody that knows me believes that I built this myself. Thanks.

Ed

If you are in the mood to drop some serious coin, and get something that is overkill for your project at hand, the Festool Domino (http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/reviews/festooldomino.htm) is the way to go.

It is more versatile than a plate joiner, and uses tenons that are much stronger than biscuits. I hate how much I spent on it, but I love using it and what it does for me.

Thanks so much for the fast response guys!!

I found a "new" 1 year old Dewalt on Craigslist (thanks for the tip Mike). I sent the guy an email to see if it was still available.

tbain -- I did not realize that the PC version could cut both sizes. That is a nice feature to consider. You are probably right that I would not figure using the smaller size -- but end up doing so more often. I like this model as well.

ejhuzy -- Yes, well aware of the less expensive Ryobi. For my basic limited needs, it could do the trick. I'll have to look into that one. Thanks. And glad I could give you inspiration on the room. Any pics to share?

aaron_hinni -- all I can say is "what a tool" (umm, no you LOL :D). Festool makes some NICE stuff. However, if I told my wife I bought an $800 joiner, I think I'd be in the dog house for at least a week ;) Honestly, if I knew I had a LOT of projects that needed this tool, I would probably drop the cash on this. The strength of those tenons alone is worth it!

I call it "FesDrool" ... because I salivate like a dog whenever I see one of their tools. I don't own any, but I have used one of their plunge routers and it was like buttah!

Steve,

By the way, I took a quick peek back on your thread and all I can say about your bar is WOW! That's going to look great. Love the granite top, love the black floor, the cabinet turned out great and I can't wait to see what pulls you've chosen. Nice job.

Mike

Steve,

By the way, I took a quick peek back on your thread and all I can say about your bar is WOW! That's going to look great. Love the granite top, love the black floor, the cabinet turned out great and I can't wait to see what pulls you've chosen. Nice job.

Mike
Thanks for the kudos Mike. I plan to get the handles applied sometime this weekend. It's really hard to open drawers/doors without them. The granite guy is coming tomorrow morning to drill the holes for the faucet.

I bought that DeWalt Joiner off Craigslist tonight for $100. He got it last Christmas but never used it. This thing is in mint condition - not a spec of sawdust on it. I can't wait to use it on the cabinet doors! I buy/sell lots of stuff on Craigslist but never thought about looking for this tool. Thanks for the tip.

Wet Bar Update….

I was able to install the plumbing and drawer/door hardware this afternoon. I’m happy with the results. I plan to start on the upper cabinets 2nd week in December. Back splash will follow shortly after that.

Before:
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WBUC-DoorsOff.JPG

Pre-Hardware:
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-CounterInstalled.JPG

Hardware Installed. I was even able to locate handles that matched the same style and color as the bar fridge.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-lowerfinal1.jpg


Close-up of granite top. The splash of dark red in the counter top really ties in with the wall color.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-lowerfinal2.jpg


Close-up of under mount sink and sink fixtures (hot water, faucet and faucet control)
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-lowerfinal3.jpg

Looks great Steve! I bet you are glad to get that project done. Looks like a ton of work with an excellent pay off.

Looks great Steve! I bet you are glad to get that project done. Looks like a ton of work with an excellent pay off.
Thanks Jason. Yes, very happy to free up the space in the garage as well. I am anxious to get started on the upper cabinets. I hope I can get those knocked out before the 1st of the year.

The bar/counter look great. Curious how long the bar is, and what size sink you are using?

The bar/counter look great. Curious how long the bar is, and what size sink you are using?
The counter is 7' 2" long and 25.5" deep. The sink dimensions are below and it was suppled by our granite guy. It is really the perfect size given the size of the wet bar itself. It even came with sound deadening material pre-attached to the underside :)
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/wb-sink1.jpg http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/wb-sink2.jpg

If you are in the mood to drop some serious coin, and get something that is overkill for your project at hand, the Festool Domino is the way to go.

It is more versatile than a plate joiner, and uses tenons that are much stronger than biscuits. I hate how much I spent on it, but I love using it and what it does for me.

I completely agree. The Domino is one of those rare tools that is elegantly designed and engineered AND actually works very well. 'Course, it's stupid expensive.

Festool sanders are really, really nice, too. I have two. 'Course, they were stupid expensive.

And the Festool guided circular saw system with the plunge-cutting circular saw, it's really great. I have two guides (a long one and a short one), the smaller saw and a deep, abiding desire for the bigger saw. 'Course, the saw system was stupid expensive.

Have I mentioned that I have a small problem with my addiction to power tools? Actually, I don't think of it as MY problem, it's really my wife that has the problem with it ...

I bought that DeWalt Joiner off Craigslist tonight for $100.

Nice score. Have fun with it.

Nice work as usual Steve. It looks great.

What do you have planned next? Those 15's sure need a home away from that dusty box in the closet :D

Ronnie

Nice work as usual Steve. It looks great.

What do you have planned next? Those 15's sure need a home away from that dusty box in the closet :D

Ronnie
Thanks Ronnie. I was actually looking at your thread just last night and thinking how nice your room came out. Upper cabinets are next but I'm with you on the addition of 2 more 15s for more punch. I want to get those installed so I can shake down the entire house :D

It just seems like I've put so much time and effort into the room and never get to enjoy it (a quote from my wife). I'm trying to spend more time in there.

In fact, I watched Ironman and Ratatouille on Blu-Ray this past weekend with my extended family. Both movies took full advantage of my 1080p projector and the 7.1 surround. Ironman had some nice bass. I even turned it up about 10% to get a little extra punch in the room -- oh man was it nice. When he was exiting the cave in the Mark 1 suit, you could feel every step he took.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Ironman.jpg


Ratatouille was absolute eye candy. The amount of detail was astounding. You could see individual hairs so clearly. During Ratatouille I was sitting in the worst seat in the house (back left corner) and the surround was still incredible. I heard things behind me as well from the sides.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Ratatouille.jpg


I was re-energized with the room and cannot wait to watch "The Dark Knight" over Christmas.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/DarkKnight.jpg

Have you seen anything recently that you enjoyed in your room?

Looks really good Steve. You've done it again!!! I like the handles.

If you liked the bass when Iron Man was exiting the cave, try it when he gets pissed off and starts to fly to the middle east to kick ass. Right when he generates the sonic boom is pretty impressive.

Kung-Fu Panda is pretty heavy on the LFE as well.

Looks like you've been having fun :)

Have you seen anything recently that you enjoyed in your room?

Glad you are beginning to enjoy the room. I know the feeling very well. I was just telling the girlfriend the other day we need to use it more often and also start inviting people over for movie nights regularly.

Over the weekend I watched "Dont mess with the Zohan" and the new "Indiana Jones" movie. Zohan was funny if you like that kind of stuff, but dont waste your money on Indiana Jones. It was by far the worst movie I have seen in a very long time.

Watched Hancock last night. Excellent movie with a lot of LFE.

Im still in the 720p camp, but happy as I think the pic is still incredible. Cant wait to upgrade later to 1080.

Ronnie

I wasn't expecting much from Hancock, but I was actually really surprised as how funny and exciting it was.

I wasn't expecting much from Hancock, but I was actually really surprised as how funny and exciting it was.


Same here. Very well done flic. Not your over the top, totally unbeliavable typical super hero film. Its has the right amount of humor and action without going overboard. I think Will Smith is a great actor. Definately a movie I will probably watch a couple more times.

Ronnie

Seems like Hancock and the new Indiana Jones were the Thanksgiving Holiday picks ... a thumbs up and then a big thumbs down.

Steve -- I had a question about the under-counter fridge you put in. How loud is it and can you hear it during soft movie passages? I'm considering putting one in my room, but I'm concerned about compressor noise after I've gone to all the trouble and expense of reducing noise in/out the room!

I grew tired of Indy when they started swinging with monkeys. The spaceship made it that much worse.

I grew tired of Indy when they started swinging with monkeys. The spaceship made it that much worse.

+1

It was like a bad episode of SG-1 at the end.

Awesome screen shots. I can hardly wait as those three are on the top of my 'break-in the HT' list!

Steve -- I had a question about the under-counter fridge you put in. How loud is it and can you hear it during soft movie passages? I'm considering putting one in my room, but I'm concerned about compressor noise after I've gone to all the trouble and expense of reducing noise in/out the room!
While I love having the fridge in the room, it does exhibit more noise that I had figured :( You won't hear it during normal volume parts of a movie or during a football game. However, you can hear it during quiet parts of a movie. I read that the more expensive "built-in" models (like the one I have) were suppose to be more quiet - NOT! I even had a service guy come out to look at it and he said that was the "normal" noise. To help combat the noise, I plan to put a lot of absorption material in the wet bar area (back splash, on the walls and even on the ceiling). I'd say if you can avoid putting one in your room, do so (unless it is far away from the seating.

One the good side, anything you put in that thing comes out COLD -- 38deg to be exact :D

Looks really good Steve. You've done it again!!! I like the handles.
Thanks David. I'll need to stop by to see your new 50" Pioneer Elite KURO. That's one sweet TV!

I agree with the Indiana Jones movie. I was very hyped up about this movie and was a bit disappointed at the theater. I did buy the BR for $15 (just received it today) but might send it back.

And I forgot about the sonic boom in Ironman -- yep, that one is a keeper! I also received Kung Fu Panda today and look forward to the LFE in that one as well.

Steve,

Great work, as always !

Ivan

Steve,

Great work, as always !

Ivan
Thanks Ivan. I hope you can carve away some time get a little work on on your HT over the holidays :)

Thanks Ivan. I hope you can carve away some time get a little work on on your HT over the holidays :)

I've been trying my friend. But the "fun" things in life take priority. I just bought a couple of four wheelers for my son and I, and we've been going out riding with friends. The wilderness outings and fishing have not slowed down due to weather either. It seems my little trooper likes the outdoors when it's cooler.

I have managed to do some work. I'm waiting on upholstery staples to finish the column fabric inserts.

While I love having the fridge in the room, it does exhibit more noise that I had figured :( You won't hear it during normal volume parts of a movie or during a football game. However, you can hear it during quiet parts of a movie. I read that the more expensive "built-in" models (like the one I have) were suppose to be more quiet - NOT! I even had a service guy come out to look at it and he said that was the "normal" noise. To help combat the noise, I plan to put a lot of absorption material in the wet bar area (back splash, on the walls and even on the ceiling). I'd say if you can avoid putting one in your room, do so (unless it is far away from the seating.

One the good side, anything you put in that thing comes out COLD -- 38deg to be exact :D

Thanks Steve ... I appreciate the candid assessment. I think I will forgo the fridge in the room. We have a 2nd fridge stuck in the utility room, which will be adjacent to the theater room. So, I can still get a cold one nearby, it just doesn't have that professional, high-end, built-in look that you've got going :)

I've been trying my friend. But the "fun" things in life take priority. I just bought a couple of four wheelers for my son and I, and we've been going out riding with friends. The wilderness outings and fishing have not slowed down due to weather either. It seems my little trooper likes the outdoors when it's cooler.

I have managed to do some work. I'm waiting on upholstery staples to finish the column fabric inserts.
You can't buy memories like that. Enjoy the time with your son. Please keep me posted on your progress (once you restart) :)

Thanks Steve ... I appreciate the candid assessment. I think I will forgo the fridge in the room. We have a 2nd fridge stuck in the utility room, which will be adjacent to the theater room. So, I can still get a cold one nearby, it just doesn't have that professional, high-end, built-in look that you've got going :)
I think that would be the best option. Since my room is upstairs above the garage, it was a long walk down to the kitchen for a cold one. My wife got tired of fetching the beers so I had to get that cabinet completed ASAP :D ;)

My wife got tired of fetching the beers so I had to get that cabinet completed ASAP :D ;)
Your WIFE fetches the beers?? If I ever tried that with my g;friend I'd get the "you can't be serious" look. And, she'd be right! :D

Your WIFE fetches the beers?? If I ever tried that with my g;friend I'd get the "you can't be serious" look. And, she'd be right! :D
LOL! Okay, maybe "I" loaded up the cooler but asked her to carry it upstairs (so we would have enough beers to last the game). :eek: ;) Oh course, you know if this was true, I'd get the "Are you Serious Look" too :D

Steve,

I have a fridge in my room and most of the time it's totally quiet. Only when the compressor turns on does it make a little noise. It doesn't really bug me during movies but it does when I listen to music. Something I've thought about doing that you might be interested in was a 12 volt trigger that connects the receiver to the fridge so when it's on it turns a switch off that powers the fridge.

Another option might be some sort of IR or X10 solution as well. Just a thought.

Mike

Steve,

I have a fridge in my room and most of the time it's totally quiet. Only when the compressor turns on does it make a little noise. It doesn't really bug me during movies but it does when I listen to music. Something I've thought about doing that you might be interested in was a 12 volt trigger that connects the receiver to the fridge so when it's on it turns a switch off that powers the fridge.

Another option might be some sort of IR or X10 solution as well. Just a thought.

Mike
I am a little annoyed about the amount of noise it makes. It could be the specific model I got or maybe the guy that had it before me abused it somehow -- who knows. The repair guy did not flinch with the amount of noise it made, though. You might be onto something with X10/Insteon switch. The fridge does have a little "on/off" switch on the bottom so I "could" manually turn it off for critical listening. However, the best option would be to have some type of timer that would turn if off for x minutes so I would not forget to turn it back on :eek: I could put in a "turn-on" in my room shutdown macro so I would always turn it on when leaving the room.

I can't even hear my fridge. Its just a cheapo dorm-style one I got from Lowes and I did put some OC703 in the cabinet with it but its pretty much dead silent...

http://www.reedsplace.com/Theater/Newest/barsm.jpg

Steve, while a switch or and X10 appliance module might sound like a good idea, I would be afraid of using them. If for some reason the macro failed to switch it back on, can you imagine the horror of having to throw all that beer away!!!! The wife would be saying "Honey, I know i turned it back on after we watched Greys Anatomy, are you sure its not something else"

But hey, at least the sink is close :D


It has to be the particular unit you have. With as many people around here that have fridges in the HT, surely someone can recommned one thats very quiet.

It must be the unit I have. Hmm, might have to sell it and get a cheap-o :( I love the look of this unit. I have a buddy with the same exact unit. I'll go over and visit it one day so I can see if his is as noisy as mine.

Ronnie -- I would HATE to waste all that beer as well :D I'm planning to put a bunch of 2" OC703 in there anyway (walls, ceiling, backsplash). We'll see how well that controls the noise level. I'm down to my last piece so I'll need to get some more.

Steve,

The timer idea sounds best. Especially if you could get it on a macro.

Mike

Steve,

The timer idea sounds best. Especially if you could get it on a macro.

Mike

Hey, now, that's an idea! I use a Harmony 890 and it talks to Insteon devices through Insteon's IR reader. (I turn 3 remote amps on and off with it.) If you had something like that you could have an appliance module control the 'fridge. When you turn the system on with the 890 it could turn the 'fridge off. Then when you hit the "off" button the 890 could turn the 'fridge back on.

Timer control with an IR remote as the "kick-off" is possible with Insteon. You just need one of these (http://www.smarthome.com/2414U/PowerLinc-INSTEON-Controller-USB-Based-Home-Automation-Device/p.aspx) and one of these (http://www.smarthome.com/2411R/IRLinc-Receiver-IR-to-INSTEON-Converter/p.aspx) (and I have both). I just need to sit down and figure it out.

Timer control with an IR remote as the "kick-off" is possible with Insteon. You just need one of these (http://www.smarthome.com/2414U/PowerLinc-INSTEON-Controller-USB-Based-Home-Automation-Device/p.aspx) and one of these (http://www.smarthome.com/2411R/IRLinc-Receiver-IR-to-INSTEON-Converter/p.aspx) (and I have both). I just need to sit down and figure it out.

Exactly what I was thinking. So... you've got your solution. Just need to add a little of your time.

Timer control with an IR remote as the "kick-off" is possible with Insteon. You just need one of these (http://www.smarthome.com/2414U/PowerLinc-INSTEON-Controller-USB-Based-Home-Automation-Device/p.aspx) and one of these (http://www.smarthome.com/2411R/IRLinc-Receiver-IR-to-INSTEON-Converter/p.aspx) (and I have both). I just need to sit down and figure it out.



Energize a DC mechanical relay with the PJ's trigger. Connect 120v to the relay's Normaly Closed (NC) connectors so the fridge is ON until the PJ comes on. When the PJ trigger feeds the relay it chages state to normaly open (NO) shutting off your fridge. Cheaper than Insteon.

http://img128.imageshack.us/img128/6541/relayvb2.jpg


Or you can always use this:

http://www.rkdm.com/theclapper/clapper-pic.jpg :D

Thanks for the suggestion Ivan. I already own the Insteon stuff (well, everything but the appliance wall-plug) -- so not much money to get it going. However, your solution could work as well (as long as the kids don't leave the projector on for 2 days by accident). I really like the idea of a timer to shut it off for ~2 hours so it will turn back on even if the macros does not fire properly.

I actually added some 2" insulation around the fridge and inside the wet bar room. It only reduced the the sound level by 1db at the room entrance and about 2db at the seated position. The interesting thing about this fridge is it runs almost 90% of the time. The repair guy seemed to think this was pretty normal. IMO, the fridge is pretty inefficient. It could be due to the fact that there is a freezer on the bottom (which is hard-set to zero deg). Fridge is set to 39deg right now (you can set it from 34 to 46 deg).

I'm going to put a thermometer inside the fridge to see how cold and warm it gets. I have one that records highs and lows as well as current temp. The constant running "could" be a faulty thermostat -- but probably not likely.

Crazy Idea…

When I saw that Ruben/SandmanX was making his screen larger, it make me think about doing the same. I’ve been itching to do it over the past year but I've been too busy.

This screen will be the same AT screen material but instead of recessing into a shadow box, it will stick out about 1.5” and have a blue glow around it (dimmable so it can be turned off during a movie if desired). My wife saw this “glow effect” right after I completed the 1st screen – so I’ve had it in the back of my mind for quite some time.

I’m still thinking about it and have a number of “build” projects to do before I tackle this (both HT and for the home).

So here are a few sizes I’m considering. Option #2 is probably my favorite because it allows for some spare room on the sides and also allows me to keep the bottom of the white part of the screen at 27” (the lowest you can put it without your legs blocking any of image when reclined). The red line is the 2.35:1 diag. width and blue is the 1.78:1 diag. width (for HDTV watching)

I'm considering a manual side masking system. However, I don't have one now and it has not been an issue.

With the JVC RS1, my projector distance is about in the middle of the zoom range with good brightness.

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Screen-LargerOptions1.jpg

Have U tried the beer launcher as demonstrated on David Letterman? PM me with your home email, & I can send you the video clip. Too bad we can't attach them here.:D

I vote for option 2

Have U tried the beer launcher as demonstrated on David Letterman? PM me with your home email, & I can send you the video clip. Too bad we can't attach them here.:D
PM sent :)

I vote for option 2
Probably the way I'll go. The plan it to buy some blackout cloth from Joanns and see if that size works (testing with a full length film and also for a football game or two).

Bigger is not always better but I figure for $15 it is worth a test :)

Probably the way I'll go. The plan it to buy some blackout cloth from Joanns and see if that size works (testing with a full length film and also for a football game or two).

Bigger is not always better but I figure for $15 it is worth a test :)

Of course, you can always make it smaller, but once you cut... It can't get bigger.

Of course, you can always make it smaller, but once you cut... It can't get bigger.
Agreed. We'll see how "test cloth" works out.

Steve,

HNY!

Bar came out great. Granite looks wonderful, reminds me of mine.

Bud

Steve,

HNY!

Bar came out great. Granite looks wonderful, reminds me of mine.

Bud
Thanks Bud. HNY as well!

I've side-stepped just a bit and am re-building my rear projector shelf. The one I had was a little too high (it required me to tilt the projector down a little). I have the new one built and plan to veneer it over the weekend. Hopefully I can get it installed this coming week.

Steve, in case you still are taking suggestions, I would opt for #3 as it gives an even gap on the top and sides... Especially if you are going to go with anything that glows behind the screen.

Yep, a bit more room above with Option #3. Noted. Wish I could start on that now but have a few items to complete 1st:

1) New rear Projector shelf (about 70% complete now)
2) Wet Bar Upper cabinets (just need to pickup the lumber)
3) Enlarge IB Sub box to accommodate (4) 15" woofs
4) WIFE: Build locker area for kids by back door (guess this one should be #1 LOL)

1) New rear Projector shelf (about 70% complete now)


Steve,

Can't wait to see your shelf. I just finished mine. Hardest part was accomodating the anamorphic lens (no in the picture):

http://i441.photobucket.com/albums/qq132/ejhuzy/Home%20Theater/DSCN0849.jpg

I really have to clean up those nail holes.

It's amazing how wimpy all your options make your current screen look! Whatever you do you'l really enjoy it, I'm sure. I favor #3 too.

#3 here too

I can only dream of tinkering in the HT - so many other itemss I got to do first.

Steve,

Can't wait to see your shelf. I just finished mine. Hardest part was accommodating the anamorphic lens (no in the picture):

I really have to clean up those nail holes.
Ed,

Very nice projector box. Mine is more like a diving board that the projector sits on. I'm just taking it the next level (compared to my current model). It will be veneered and stained (vs. painted black) to match my rear wall (rift cut oak in a dark brown stain). I was actually delaying this post until I had some good pics to share. The veneering took a little longer to do because my supplier was out of stock for a few weeks. I have a few more pieces to apply then I'll post some "raw" pics before it is stained. It looks like it will turn out well but won't know until it is complete and installed.

It's amazing how wimpy all your options make your current screen look! Whatever you do you'l really enjoy it, I'm sure. I favor #3 too.
I totally agree. I know that when I originally made the current screen, it was on the very edge for my 720p projector (based on my seating distance). Now with 1080p, you can sit as close as you can stand without seeing SDE.

The screen is on the list but I want to get a few other items done first (starting with this darn projector shelf :D)

#3 here too

I can only dream of tinkering in the HT - so many other itemss I got to do first.
Actually, most of my build time will be halting very soon. My wife is taking her last semester of school (yes, graduation this Spring - YEA). She's taking (2) day classes and (1) night class. My Daddy-Duty will be in full force. I'll have little time to myself with homework, soccer games and gymnastics. Ugg, I'll be looking forward to Summer '09 :o

My Daddy-Duty will be in full force. I'll have little time to myself with homework, soccer games and gymnastics. Ugg, I'll be looking forward to Summer '09 :o



Or in other words, you got some Mr Mom duty for awhile....;):D

Or in other words, you got some Mr Mom duty for awhile....;):D
Bingo :D

New Projector Shelf Completed

This was the old one – painted black. A very simple shelf screwed to the top of the molding. Worked perfectly (with the exception of being a little too high in the room – to project the image on the screen without raising the rear of the projector)
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/NewProj-OldUnit.JPG


Here is the new one – a little different design. Before the shelf sat on top of the crown molding but now it sits 4” lower. I had to engineer it a little differently so it could support the weight of the projector, lens and of course the shelf itself.

I used some 16” metal 1/8” thick construction straps and bent them at 90 deg. I then created an angled support (made out of 5 layers of ¾” birch plywood). I attached the layered birch pieces with a combo of 3” and 2” deck screws and some wood glue. It is solid as a rock.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/NewProj-MountHardware1.JPG


Next, I attached the angled metal braces to the front and applied a ½” piece of MDF to make it look smooth. Lastly, veneered it to match the bottom of the actual shelf.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/NewProj-MountHardware2.JPG


Ahh, good segway to the actual shelf. It is simple ¾” birch ply with rift cut red oak veneer applied to the bottom and edges. It is the same veneer I used for the dark slats in the rear curved wall.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/NewProj-PreStain1.JPG
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/NewProj-PreStain2.JPG
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/NewProj-PreStain3.JPG


Overall, pretty satisfied. Here is a closeup of the final mounting. This thing is about as solid as it gets. I have very little "board bounce" even with the projector on the shelf.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/NewProj-Final5.JPG


I did this to lower my projector and reduce the amount of tilting it needs for correct image projection. Once I make my larger screen, it should eliminate the tilt all together. I still have some nail holes to fill and adjustments to the crown under the projector. But for the most part -- I'll call it done.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/NewProj-Final1.JPG
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/NewProj-Final2.JPG
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/NewProj-Final4.JPG
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/NewProj-Final3.JPG


I'm currently working on the base molding in the wet bar area. Since the molding is custom and needs to be stained, it is slow going. I'm trying to get it installed before the end of the weekend. More soon.

Looks great Steve!

Wow, talk about a custom design. Nice. Looks good Steve.

Nice Steve, very nice!

Décor Update…

Just a quickie here… While I was waiting for the clear coat to dry on my base molding, I finally got around to customizing my entry INSTEON light switch. I Googled for all the color icons, designed it with MS Visio, laser printed them on a semi-shiny white paper and cut them out by hand. It really adds a custom touch to the room. I’ve configured it to use (6) buttons. The top and bottom are obvious, but for the others, see below:

Popcorn: Very low lighting -- just enough to walk around and see how much popcorn you have left in your bucket.
Movie Film: All lights off except the star ceiling and rope lighting around the perimeter of the room
Football: Mid level lighting for sporting events, entertaining and socializing
Light Bulb: For showing off the room – everything at about 70/80%

NOTE: When I bought mine, they only offered a clear/white (http://www.smarthome.com/2886DB/KeypadLinc-Dimmer-INSTEON-6-Button-Scene-Control-Keypad-with-Dimmer-Amber-LEDs/p.aspx) setup. Now they have brown and black (http://www.smarthome.com/2486DBK6/KeypadLinc-Dimmer-INSTEON-6-Button-Scene-Control-Keypad-with-Dimmer-Black/p.aspx) (which is what I wish I had now)

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/lightswitch.jpg

Looks great Steve!
Wow, talk about a custom design. Nice. Looks good Steve.
Nice Steve, very nice!
Thanks so much guys. I know this is not as nice as ejhuzy's but it does get the job done. It did take some effort to get it built, though. I must have made 5 trips to HD for something along the way. I'm so happy my HD is only about a mile from the house.

I had all the wet bar base molding cut and ready to nail to the wall when.... my wife came in and said she did not like the dark oak and wanted maple like the rest of the room. Luckily I had a 10' long 1x6 of maple in the garage -- so no expense for this change. Now I have to route, sand and stain all over again :( Was I happy about the change...not really but you have to pick you battles.

Oh and after she told me, I decided to take the rest of the evening off and watch a movie :D

Hey Steve - it looks like your anamorphic lens is sitting flat. Which lens is that again (I forgot and I'm too lazy to go looking.. )? I find that I need to tilt my lens (Panamorph) pretty good to minimize the barrel distortion. Maybe that's because my thow distance is so short...?

Her: "I really would like maple better"

You: "You know, I really would like to make that happen, but the earth is clear out of maple trees"

Hey Steve - it looks like your anamorphic lens is sitting flat. Which lens is that again (I forgot and I'm too lazy to go looking.. )? I find that I need to tilt my lens (Panamorph) pretty good to minimize the barrel distortion. Maybe that's because my thow distance is so short...?
I have a Prismasonic lens. It does have a slight vertical tilt but it does nothing to the image if you tilt it up/down (except impede the light and make things darker on the top and/or bottom). There is not much I can do about the slight barrel distortion except let it get absorbed by my black velvet frame (which works quite well). Where you notice changes is while in the expanded mode, you turn it left or right -- images moves to the left/right and goes out of square (rather rectangle). The front of the projector is about 16' from my 124" screen -- so I'm sill under the min 2x width rule. I'm sure if I was further away, the distortion would be less. When I rebuild my screen, I plan to make it curved.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/lens.jpg

Her: "I really would like maple better"

You: "You know, I really would like to make that happen, but the earth is clear out of maple trees"
I had to show my wife your comment Tim. All she had to say was "You told them??!!" LOL!

Hey, you can tell her it's your fault.. should've checked with her first. :) (I'm surprised you didn't!) Looks great, though. Which Prismasonic do you have and would you buy it again? I still have some SMX material and am waiting to finally get a house to build a theater in, and you're convincing me to go curved as well..

Hey, you can tell her it's your fault.. should've checked with her first. :) (I'm surprised you didn't!) Looks great, though. Which Prismasonic do you have and would you buy it again? I still have some SMX material and am waiting to finally get a house to build a theater in, and you're convincing me to go curved as well..
I DID check with her first -- thats what bothered me. Sometimes she has to sit and ponder -- and she didn't this time. Oh well, it is about 10' of base molding so not that big of deal. I'm out $35 and several hours of work.

I think the one I have is the 1500M or something like that. They now sell the 5000 which I think is the successor to it. It is an excellent lens and yes I would buy it again. It does well on the SMX material. You just have to tilt the SMX material about 30deg to avoid moiré with the new Epson 1080p LCD projectors (not an issue with my JVC or the Pannys -- and not sure about the new DLPs).

You still have you 720p BenQ? If so, what do you plan to upgrade to (if you had to buy one today)?

Oh and curved really sounds like a good decision these days. The viewing cone is almost 180 deg with the SMX material.

Yikes - I'll bite my tongue. :p :)

Good to hear about your lens and SMX. I still have my SMX material sitting at my parents' house, where it was shipped while I was away. I haven't even looked at it yet! Come to think of it, I hope it's not creased somewhere..

Anyway, I'm still using my BenQ PE7700. The fan went out on it and I tried to replace them myself, but one of them didn't work for some reason. It's been in the shop for several weeks now, which is taking way too long.. I wanted it back for the Super Bowl! :mad: So I've actually been "hobbling along" on my Infocus SP4805 which is smaller (for same throw distance), dimmer, and obviously worse resolution/picture. So I'll be sufficiently happy with my BenQ when it comes back, for probably another year and then probably get the Epson 6500UB when it gets cheaper. What's tempting me sooner is its brightness for my poorly light-controlled living room.

Hey Swithey,

I gotta say that projector shelf is quite nice, certainly an improvement over the previous version. Also I gotta say you did a great job on the switch icons, very cool. Looking foward to your new screen, I'm sure it will be nothing short of spectacular.

Yikes - I'll bite my tongue. :p :)

Good to hear about your lens and SMX. I still have my SMX material sitting at my parents' house, where it was shipped while I was away. I haven't even looked at it yet! Come to think of it, I hope it's not creased somewhere..

Anyway, I'm still using my BenQ PE7700. The fan went out on it and I tried to replace them myself, but one of them didn't work for some reason. It's been in the shop for several weeks now, which is taking way too long.. I wanted it back for the Super Bowl! :mad: So I've actually been "hobbling along" on my Infocus SP4805 which is smaller (for same throw distance), dimmer, and obviously worse resolution/picture. So I'll be sufficiently happy with my BenQ when it comes back, for probably another year and then probably get the Epson 6500UB when it gets cheaper. What's tempting me sooner is its brightness for my poorly light-controlled living room.
Tim,

No worries ;)

Sorry to hear about your BenQ. I really liked that PJ and was one I seriously considered a few years back. I hope you get it back soon.

I actually setup an old Sony 4:3 1024x768 LCD 2800 Lumen projector in our game room for tomorrow. Since both the HT and LR TV will be used to watch the big game, this will occupy the kids with a 100" screen to play movies and Wii. I'm shooting it up against a light mustard colored wall - but the kids don't mind. It's a bit "utilitarian" looking but for about a $20 investment it will work out quite well. It is easily removable and re-installable for future needs. The mounting idea was to try and utilize the existing studs in the rear wall and upper vault. The wife came up with the triangular mount design in the front. I've taught her well ;)
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/GameroomPJ1.jpg
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/GameroomPJ2.jpg

Hey Swithey,

I gotta say that projector shelf is quite nice, certainly an improvement over the previous version. Also I gotta say you did a great job on the switch icons, very cool. Looking foward to your new screen, I'm sure it will be nothing short of spectacular.
Thanks oman. I agree -- much nicer than the old model. I would have loved to have a closet in the back where I could totally hide it from view -- but not an option in this room.

Yes, I 'd do the screen now if the wife would let me. She is insisting I get the wet bar cabinets finished up next. However, with her in school I'm not sure how much time I'll have to do much of anything.

Oh, I just saw that it was the moulding.. I thought it was the whole projector mount.. that's not quite as bad. :) My wife and I are going through valance designs.. since she's making them, I gave her the final say, of course. She's actually making them out of bed sheets, but they should look pretty good.

The BenQ projector case was cracked, and they're supposedly receiving the part on Tuesday. So I'll have to do on the SP4805 (but will probably move it back to fill the screen) for the Super Bowl. Enjoy that theater tomorrow!

Oh, I just saw that it was the moulding.. I thought it was the whole projector mount.. that's not quite as bad. :) My wife and I are going through valance designs.. since she's making them, I gave her the final say, of course. She's actually making them out of bed sheets, but they should look pretty good.

The BenQ projector case was cracked, and they're supposedly receiving the part on Tuesday. So I'll have to do on the SP4805 (but will probably move it back to fill the screen) for the Super Bowl. Enjoy that theater tomorrow!
Tim,

Hope you got your BenQ back in one piece and it is back in production :)

Wet Bar Cabinet Update..

Started Veneering the wood for the upper cabinets today. I'm taking the rest of the week off to get some honey-dos done and these cabinets are on the list. My plan is to cut the wood tomorrow and hopefully start assembly. Since the wife is a little under the weather, I may not get as much done as I planned (the kids are home for Spring Break so "Daddy Duty" is in full force). However, I'll try and squeeze in a much as possible and track my progress on the thread.

More Soon :)

Tim,

Hope you got your BenQ back in one piece and it is back in production :)
Yes, I did - only $35 repair (+ shipping one way) for an out of warranty repair from BenQ! Very impressed with their service. And it's a ton better than the "backup" Infocus SP4805 (480p) I was using that didn't fill the whole screen due to throw distance.

I haven't watched much in the past couple of weeks since I haven't had time (helping take care of a daughter now) and am trying to finish the basement! Too much junk is everywhere. It's whack-a-mole with moving things around, putting up a wall, moving it again..

Would you say that the theater part (not wet bar, etc) is completely done now? Any equipment upgrades on the horizon?

Wet Bar – Upper Cabinets: Construction Has Begun :)

I was able to make some nice progress on the wet bar upper cabinets today. Last night, I veneered the MDF cores so they would be ready for cutting today.

Below is a quick render of the final cabinet design. They will be veneered with rift-cut red oak (just like the bottom cabinets). The doors will have glass fronts and glass shelves on the inside. The cabinets are about 36" tall (a limitation because of the 8' ceilings in the wet bar) before the crown molding is installed. I will be installing puck lighting to light the inside and under the cabinets (more on that in a second).
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-UC-Render.jpg


Here is the raw wood for the carcass cut and ready for assembly. I am actually building (3) separate cabinets and will attach them together inside the wetbar. I figured this would make it easier to install. Since the cabinet fronts will be glass, the entire inside must be stain-grade rift-cut red oak (thank my wife for this requirement). Even tough this was an added expense and took more time, I think the glass doors will add a lot of class to the cabinets and also make the small room appear less crowded.
NOTE: I still need to cut the wood for the doors. I’ll do that after the carcass' are assembled.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-UC-CutWood.JPG


The puck lighting I plan to use is something I’ve used on one other project in the past. They are powerful lights and are rated at 110volt (which means they can be dimmed with a normal wall dimmer). Both HD and Lowes sell them. HD has the 12volt version and Lowes sells the 110volt version. The nice part is I can recess them into the cabinets for a very clean look. They are pretty inexpensive at (6) lights for $35. I need (12) for the project.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-UC-Lighting.JPG


Tomorrow I plan to cut the holes for the puck lighting, drill the holes for the adjustable shelves and hopefully get all (3) cabinet carcass' assembled.

Yes, I did - only $35 repair (+ shipping one way) for an out of warranty repair from BenQ! Very impressed with their service. And it's a ton better than the "backup" Infocus SP4805 (480p) I was using that didn't fill the whole screen due to throw distance.

I haven't watched much in the past couple of weeks since I haven't had time (helping take care of a daughter now) and am trying to finish the basement! Too much junk is everywhere. It's whack-a-mole with moving things around, putting up a wall, moving it again..

Would you say that the theater part (not wet bar, etc) is completely done now? Any equipment upgrades on the horizon?
WOW -- that was a cheap fix. I love to get those!!

Yes, mostly done in the room. I still have a handful of small items to complete but the wife has me focused on on the cabinets for now. I really want to get the cabinets completed since the wet bar looks so plain without them.

Future HT Items? Well, a larger screen most likely (curved AT 2.35:1 DIY). This is down the road but on the list. As for equipment, I'm really happy with everything I have now. But you know, this could change tomorrow :rolleyes: :D

Wet Bar – Upper Cabinets Update….

Worked the last 3 days on the cabinets. I'm very happy with the results. The carcasses are complete and now I need to start on the doors.

Here is a pic of all the pieces that make up the cabinet. A lot of prep-work went into making these pieces – cutting, veneering, drilling peg holes, making up the custom top and bottom pieces (more on that next) and sanding.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-UC-CarcassAssembly1.JPG


Both the top and bottom pieces needed to accommodate a small 2” wide 20watt xenon puck light. The top piece was easy since the light was exposed on the top. However, the bottom piece was also the bottom shelf of the cabinet and needed to look good. The light itself needs to breath or it might start a fire (or at least reduce the life of the bulb). So, I created a small ½” gap between the (2) pieces of ¾” MDF to vent the air out the back of the cabinet. It was easy to build but took a little engineering to make sure I got it right.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-UC-BottomShelf1.JPG

Air and wire slot
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-UC-BottomShelf2.JPG


Here it is in a dry fit. Looks good, time to glue and brad nail the sucker
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-UC-CarcassAssembly2.JPG


Remember the bottom puck light in the hidden cavity? When I applied the rear of the cabinet, it covered up my “breathing” slot. I had to re-open it with my handy router. This slot will also be used to get the power cord to the light. I have a small ¾” deep false cavity behind the cabinet's back so I can route all the wires to the top of the cabinet. I did consider LED lights but everything I found priced the lights at $75-$125 EACH :eek: I like my Lowes models for about $6/ea.

I used a 1.5” trim bit in my router to route the slot.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-UC-RearAirPocket2.JPG


I had to drill a ½” pilot hole and insert the router into the hole
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-UC-RearAirPocket3.JPG


Route left then right.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-UC-RearAirPocket4.JPG


Slot Done!
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-UC-RearAirPocket5.JPG


And here are all (3) completed and ready to be stained. They turned out square and sturdy. They have some good weight to them – probably 50-60lbs each. This is mainly due to the fact that I used ¾” MDF for everything including the cabinet back
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-UC-CarcassComplete.JPG

Now -- onto the doors. More soon :)

Looking good!

Did you use any thing special for the edge banding, or is it the same veneer you used for everything else?

Looking good!

Did you use any thing special for the edge banding, or is it the same veneer you used for everything else?
I used a combo of the actual wood-backed veneer (cut to size) and the paper-backed heat-n-glue edging. For the face edges, I used the wood-backed veneer (for the best color match). For everything else, I used the glue-on stuff (used for the bottom edges of the cabinet).

Nice Steve !!...Were you not able to find Rift Sawn oak plywood ? Seems like a lot of work. :)

Nice Steve !!...Were you not able to find Rift Sawn oak plywood ? Seems like a lot of work. :)
Thanks Ivan.

I considered the Rift Ply but it was about 50% more over veneering my own MDF. It added about one evening to my build time -- not too bad.

I figured I'd use the savings to offset the cost of the glass shelves and glass door inserts :D

Thanks Ivan.

It added about one evening to my build time -- not too bad.



I guess with all the veneering you've been doing, you have managed to master the art already.. ;)

Very nice job with the MDF cabinets!

Why did you decide to NOT do sconces?

Was that a style thing? did you decide the light output would be adequate without them?

I guess with all the veneering you've been doing, you have managed to master the art already.. ;)
Master... no, but comfortable, yes.

One trick I have learned using Wood-backed veneer is that it is a bitch to trim with a blade. I bought a RIDGID Laminate Trimmer to help me out a bit. This takes off about 99% of the material and I take the rest off with my manual wedge sander. It is very light and easy to maneuver. Best $100 I every spent since it has so many other uses!
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/RigidLamTrimmer.jpg

Very nice job with the MDF cabinets!
Thanks so much. I've been watching your build from the beginning. You room has turned out great! I can't wait to see the final product.

Why did you decide to NOT do sconces?

Was that a style thing? did you decide the light output would be adequate without them?
Yes, it was styling from the beginning. When I started building the columns, I did not know what kind of side surround speakers I planned to use (direct radiating or side firing). We did not want to put them on the walls between the columns -- so it was decided not to put any at all.

With that said (and based on the fact that I chose side-firing surrounds), I would have put sconces on the front of those columns. The wife and I have talked about it a few times. However, since I'm stuck with what I have...the way I have the ceiling lights shooting at the walls, it works out very well. No light distraction while watching a movie as long as the lights are at lower levels.

I have plenty of light output without any side sconces. In fact, I never put the lighting at 100% unless I am cleaning up to room. But... side sconces would add a bit more ambient/mood lighting to the room.

Mini Update – Cabinet Light

Ever since I put in the microwave in the lower cabinet, it has been hard to read the front microwave buttons in the dark. I always had to turn on the wet bar light to set the popcorn cook time (which was distracting during the movie). Today, I decided to build my own LED lighting system for the lower cabinet.

Here is the lower cabinet with the microwave doors closed
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-MWave-Closed.JPG


Here with the doors open -- exposing the microwave
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-MWave-Open.JPG


The idea was to put a few LEDs just above the microwave to light up the keypad. Simple enough.. (2) clear 5mm LEDs, a few resistors, a momentary button and an old cell phone power supply. Here is the circuit all soldiered together
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-CabLight1.JPG


I covered all the wires with electrical tape so not to have any shorts. Heat shrinkable tubing would have been better but I did not have any.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-CabLight2.JPG


I drilled (2) small holes directly above the microwave keypad, inserted the LEDs and held them in with hot glue. You'll never see the wires because they are hidden under the drawer above (drawer currently removed in pic).
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-CabLight3.JPG\

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-CabLight-LEDs.JPG


Next, I installed the momentary switch with hot glue as well. It completes the circuit when the cabinet door is open (turning on the LEDs) and breaks it when the door is closed (LEDs go out). It is nearly invisible when the door is installed (door currently removed in pic).
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-CabLight-Switch.JPG


Works perfectly, very discrete, no batteries to replace and even the wife was surprised how well it lit up the keypad. Not bad for an hours worth of work and $5.50 :)

Now thats cool Steve!!! I thought I was being creative with the equipment rack drawer/light and here you come with something cooler:D Nice work.

This actually gives me a great idea for a few things.

Ronnie

Great idea - just as enjoyable to read the smaller projects which spurn other ideas.. Were the resistors a simple calculation comparing the output of the transformer to the wattage of the LEDs?

Thanks Guys. It was a fun project to do and went quickly (which never seems to be the case with most HT additions :p).

Yes, it is a simple formula based on the number of LEDs and the voltage of the power supply. I cheated a little and used this website (http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz) to do the calculation for me. In my case, I had a 5volt PS and (2) 5mm LEDs. I used (2) 100ohm resistors for this small circuit.

Those are nice to have around. Many uses for the little booger too.

Master... no, but comfortable, yes.

One trick I have learned using Wood-backed veneer is that it is a bitch to trim with a blade. I bought a RIDGID Laminate Trimmer to help me out a bit. This takes off about 99% of the material and I take the rest off with my manual wedge sander. It is very light and easy to maneuver. Best $100 I every spent since it has so many other uses!
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/RigidLamTrimmer.jpg

Steve,

Cabinets came out great. Whats next on the list?

Bud

Steve,

Cabinets came out great. Whats next on the list?

Bud
Next you ask? Hmm, now I have to make a list ;)

Home Theater Room:
1) Finish WB Cabinets (Doors, stain, and hang)
2) Cut and attach WB Base molding
3) WB Backslash
4) WB acoustical wall Panels (probably about 4-6 of them)
5) Door for Equipment rack (it will look like a wall panel)
6) Rebuild Infinite Baffle Sub Woofer box to accommodate (4) woofs
7) Re-build speaker covers in columns and add lighter fabric to match new wall panels
8) Finish DVD cabinet in equipment closet (currently Raw MDF) - trim out and paint
9) Other small items in the room

Oh and don't forget about the honey-do list (of course these will take priority once the WB cabinets are complete -- according to the wife)
1) Built-in Locker system by back door for the kids
2) Build small shed along side of the house for lawn equipment (similar to yours but 8' wide x 3' deep). I may have a few questions for you once I get to this project.
3) Master closet rebuild - cabinets, shelves, etc. We had a custom closet in our old house and I really miss it. I can't wait to get to this one.

It seems it will never end :o :D

Those are nice to have around. Many uses for the little booger too.

I was wondering if that wasn't the trick. I have not veneered yet still spooked over the whole deal...well not really just haven't had the opp yet. But thought one of these vs a bigger router would give better control.

And BTW ifelciano I have been meaning to ask you what router table you use? Saw :) it on your surround thread. can you shoot me a PM thanks

I was wondering if that wasn't the trick. I have not veneered yet still spooked over the whole deal...well not really just haven't had the opp yet. But thought one of these vs a bigger router would give better control.

And BTW ifelciano I have been meaning to ask you what router table you use? Saw :) it on your surround thread. can you shoot me a PM thanks
Jeff,

I've used (2) types of veneer - paper backed and wood backed. Which is better you ask?? Its really a personal preference. The wood backed veneer is a little more forgiving if the underside has a few small holes in it but it is not quite as flexible (if you have to make it around a tight curve) and a lot harder to cut with a blade. Paper is easy to cut and bend but can wrinkle if you aren't careful when applying it.

I prefer the paper stuff but was not able to get paper backed rift cut oak. That little trim router is awesome to trim off the edges. Its little messier because of the sawdust but WOW, it looks so much better in the end vs. using a blade.

As for veneering, it is really very easy. It's just like laying out a big sticker (but with a little more rigidity). You start with 90% of the material curved up away from your cabinet. Then you just run your hand down the veneer, slowly sticking down more of the material until you are done. Next, you press it down with a laminate roller or the edge of a piece of wood (like a squeegee). Lastly, trim it with a blade or a small hand held router and clean up with a hand sander with 220 git sandpaper.

Go for it -- it's a very easy way to make beautiful furniture out of ugly wood :D

Jeff,

I've used (2) types of veneer - paper backed and wood backed. Which is better you ask?? Its really a personal preference. The wood backed veneer is a little more forgiving if the underside has a few small holes in it but it is not quite as flexible (if you have to make it around a tight curve) and a lot harder to cut with a blade. Paper is easy to cut and bend but can wrinkle if you aren't careful when applying it.

I prefer the paper stuff but was not able to get paper backed rift cut oak. That little trim router is awesome to trim off the edges. Its little messier because of the sawdust but WOW, it looks so much better in the end vs. using a blade.

As for veneering, it is really very easy. It's just like laying out a big sticker (but with a little more rigidity). You start with 90% of the material curved up away from your cabinet. Then you just run your hand down the veneer, slowly sticking down more of the material until you are done. Next, you press it down with a laminate roller or the edge of a piece of wood (like a squeegee). Lastly, trim it with a blade or a small hand held router and clean up with a hand sander with 220 git sandpaper.

Go for it -- it's a very easy way to make beautiful furniture out of ugly wood :D

Steve thanks for the info and insight. So I gather you use the cement method vs the iron and yellow glue method. You spray the ploy too right? I think I am going to bite the bullet a get a spray system too.


On a different note started the discussions with Rick at selah for my surrounds. Still undecided on the fronts so took your advice and will use my B&W's for now :)

Great looking project you've got going.

I will say that I have those same puck lights from Lowe's in my kitchen, and those things seem to EAT through bulbs like nobody's business. I only just installed them last summer, and I've replaced all 6 bulbs at least once now (all lights on their 2nd bulb), and one of them has already burned out again (needs a 3rd bulb).

The bulb packages advertise 3K hour life, but I have to yet to get that much out of them, and $12 is pretty steep for 3 tiny replacement bulbs.

$35 for the original set of lights w/ bulbs, but I have already spent another $25 on 2 packs of bulbs, and I'm about to spend another $12+ on another pack.

Steve thanks for the info and insight. So I gather you use the cement method vs the iron and yellow glue method. You spray the ploy too right? I think I am going to bite the bullet a get a spray system too.


On a different note started the discussions with Rick at selah for my surrounds. Still undecided on the fronts so took your advice and will use my B&W's for now :)
Yep, I spray the poly and it is sooo nice! No brush marks and perfect in every way. Cleanup is not too bad as long as you use water based products. I do disassemble the sprayer (easy to do) when I'm done for the evening. I've also sprayed latex enamel with great results as well. This is a DEFINITE time saver. The only wasted time is waiting for the paint/clear coat to dry. The actual spraying part goes really fast and is quite fun. I'm sure my neighbors got a kick out of seeing me painting on the driveway. They see me working in the garage all the time and I'm sure they think I'm insane (or just avoiding the wife and kids :D ;)).

Let me know how the speakers go with Rick. I'm curious about your final design.

Great looking project you've got going.

I will say that I have those same puck lights from Lowe's in my kitchen, and those things seem to EAT through bulbs like nobody's business. I only just installed them last summer, and I've replaced all 6 bulbs at least once now (all lights on their 2nd bulb), and one of them has already burned out again (needs a 3rd bulb).

The bulb packages advertise 3K hour life, but I have to yet to get that much out of them, and $12 is pretty steep for 3 tiny replacement bulbs.

$35 for the original set of lights w/ bulbs, but I have already spent another $25 on 2 packs of bulbs, and I'm about to spend another $12+ on another pack.
Patrick,

Thanks for the info! I did read something similar to your experience about these pick lights a while back. I've had (2) of then in my living room lighting up some cabinets for a few years now and they have the original bulbs. However, they are not on for more than maybe a 4-5 hours a week at maybe 50%/60% power. Luckily, this "should " be the case for the WB cabinet as well.

How many hours a day/week would you say you use your lights? Have you considered another option because of the bulb problem? It's not too late for me to change :o

I would say they're on a good 4-5 hours per day since they're in the kitchen. But even at that rate, 3K hours should last about 1.5 years. The bulbs usually end up lasting 6 months at the most. I am very careful to install the bulb with a paper towel or similar so that my fingers don't touch the bulbs.

At work we have some LED under cabinet lights above our desks, which work great, but as you have already seen they are $60+ for a 5-LED strip.

For a cost and bulb life standpoint, something with a small fluorescent tube would probably be your best bet.

I would say they're on a good 4-5 hours per day since they're in the kitchen. But even at that rate, 3K hours should last about 1.5 years. The bulbs usually end up lasting 6 months at the most. I am very careful to install the bulb with a paper towel or similar so that my fingers don't touch the bulbs.

At work we have some LED under cabinet lights above our desks, which work great, but as you have already seen they are $60+ for a 5-LED strip.

For a cost and bulb life standpoint, something with a small fluorescent tube would probably be your best bet.
Thanks and good to hear you were handling the bulbs properly (that would have been my next question). Florescent doesn't dim very easily -- so I have to scratch them. LED is really the way to go but I cannot justify the additional cost. Hmm, what if I modded the Lowes lights with LEDs? Nahh, too much work :D I'll try out the cheap-o puck and see how it goes. If I get a year out of the bulbs (based on my limited usage), I'll be happy.

Thanks again for the comments.

Upper Wet Bar Cabinet Update…

Hello everyone. I was able to get more done on the upper wet bar cabinets over the past few weekends. So, I have some updated pics for you.

Here are all the pieces cut close to size. They are #1 oak 1x3 planks with rift cut oak veneer applied to both sides. Finding straight pieces was a challenge. I had to visit (3) difference Lowes to get enough to do the job.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-Upper-Doors1.JPG


All pieces mitered and ready for assembly.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-Upper-Doors2.JPG


Next, I had to add the groove to the back of each piece for the glass panel inserts (to be added later). I used my ¾” router bit to cut the groove.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-Upper-DoorGroove1.JPG
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-Upper-DoorGroove2.JPG


I used a biscuit jointer to join the corners. This was the 1st time I’ve used one of these and it was easy to use. Here is the DeWalt Jointer I picked up NEW on Craigslist for about 40% off MSRP. The guy got it as a Xmas gift and never used it.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-Upper-Biscuit1.JPG


The process is pretty simple:

Step 1, cut your biscuit slot
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-Upper-Biscuit2.JPG
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-Upper-Biscuit3.JPG


Step 2, put glue in both biscuit slots
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-Upper-Biscuit4.JPG


Step 3, put biscuit in slot
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-Upper-Biscuit5.JPG
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-Upper-Biscuit6.JPG
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-Upper-Biscuit7.JPG


Step 4, join the corner together.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-Upper-Biscuit8.JPG
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-Upper-Biscuit9.JPG


Because I did not have a few dozen clamps on hand, I secured it with a few 2" brad nails after assembly. Bond is rock solid and super strong once the glue dries.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-Upper-Biscuit10.JPG


And the finished product with the doors attached. They are currently upside down because I did not want to tear up the veneers I have on the bottom of the cabinets.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-Upper-Doors3.JPG

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-Upper-Doors4.JPG


All they need now is a quick sanding and I can start the staining process. More soon.

Very nice!

I wish I had the skill (and patience... and tools... and time... and... ) for that type of wood working.

What are you going to do for glass? Plain? Smoked? a texture/pattern of some sort?

Very nice!

I wish I had the skill (and patience... and tools... and time... and... ) for that type of wood working.

What are you going to do for glass? Plain? Smoked? a texture/pattern of some sort?
Thanks. Yes, lots of patience. However, I'm ready to get the wet bar completed so I can start enjoying it.

As for the glass, I'd like to go with something with a "rain" type effect -- but we'll see what the wife picks. I found a local shop with some really good pricing. I plan to go down there with my wife so we can pick something out. I'll be using 1/8" thick glass for the door panels and 1/4" thick (clear with a polished edge) for the shelves.

Whoa, awesome theater! I love those wide shots. Did you use a program for that? And I can't believe you can do all that woodworking yourself. I can barely cut a straight line in a 2x4!:p

Hey Steve, great work and thanks for posting all the pics of the framing process. I found it fascinating, especially the biscuits.

Whoa, awesome theater! I love those wide shots. Did you use a program for that? And I can't believe you can do all that woodworking yourself. I can barely cut a straight line in a 2x4!:p
Thanks for the kind words Shawn. You do save a bundle doing it yourself but it does take a LOT longer. I do enjoy doing the work when I get the time.

The app I used for to make the panoramic photo is called Autostitch (http://www.cs.ubc.ca/~mbrown/autostitch/autostitch.html). It is a free app. Microsoft has a free app called ICE (http://research.microsoft.com/en-us/um/redmond/groups/ivm/ICE/). It looks like it gives you more control on how the photos are stitched together. I plan to play with that one next time.

Hey Steve, great work and thanks for posting all the pics of the framing process. I found it fascinating, especially the biscuits.
You are very welcome :)

Biscuits Rock! Looking good Steve. Also good score on the DeWalt, I have the same one and love it. Looking at your pics made me think if I have ever done a 45 with mine:confused:
Jeff

Very nice work on those cabinets! Looks like you could take up a new profession.

Wow, excellent work there steve. Love the cabinets, great attention to detail. Also just saw for the 1st time the quick light job you did for the microwave, brilliant. Sometimes it's little projects like that which are easy but definately rewarding.

Great job on the cabinets, and thanks for the pics... It really explains in detail what you've done to get the end result.

One question... What type of hinge did you use for the doors?

Those look like Euro hinges.

Biscuits Rock! Looking good Steve. Also good score on the DeWalt, I have the same one and love it. Looking at your pics made me think if I have ever done a 45 with mine :confused:
Jeff
I learned from the best – ‘ole Norm from Old Yankee Workshop. I’ve been watching that show for probably 25 years now. I’m always fascinated with the techniques he used to make such beautiful furniture.

I decided on the mitered 45s so I would not have to deal with an ugly edge. I also think it added to the elegance of the doors.

BTW – nice job on your speakers so far!! I’ll be watching your progress.

Very nice work on those cabinets! Looks like you could take up a new profession.
It is fun as a hobby but not sure I could do it full time. It would be nice to own a house with a basement so I could have a dedicated workshop (like Chinadog/Bud).

Wow, excellent work there steve. Love the cabinets, great attention to detail. Also just saw for the 1st time the quick light job you did for the microwave, brilliant. Sometimes it's little projects like that which are easy but definately rewarding.
Thanks. The LED light is awesome. I love the simplicity and how well it works.

I just ordered some IR LEDs so I can make a new Wii bar. I bought a high-power after market one and it still does not work too well. I picked up a 20 pack (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2399) of IR LEDs from Deal Extreme for $3. This plus an old power supply and a few resistors and I should be set. I’ll get that build in a few weeks when the IRs arrive.

Great job on the cabinets, and thanks for the pics... It really explains in detail what you've done to get the end result.

One question... What type of hinge did you use for the doors?Those look like Euro hinges.
Yes, Euro hinges. They work great. I bought them at Rockler. Not the best deal in town but I only needed a few (and they were local). I’ve since found another local shop with much better pricing called Single Source Cabinet Supply (http://www.specialtycabinetsupplies.com/).

Wet Bar Upper Cabinet Update….

Just a teaser. I’m installing them on the wall tonight. Here they are after 3 coats of stain and 3 coats of clear. Please excuse the messy garage. I've been working nearly every night for the past week getting up to this point. An official "clean-up" is scheduled very soon.

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-UC-Stained.JPG

More Updates...

Cabinets are hung and turned out great. Still more to do but happy they fit without any trouble. I also temporarily hooked up the lights and they look great -- just the right amount of lighting. I can't wait to get the glass shelves and glass panel doors installed.

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WB-UC-CabHung1.JPG[/IMG]

Left to do:

Order glass for doors and shelves (doing that tomorrow). Glass company will be installing the glass in each door at no extra charge.
Add dimmer to room to control cabinet lighting
Attach crown molding (stained and ready to be cut to size)
Attach floor molding (stained and ready to be cut to size)
Install Doors
Add backsplash (TBD - the wife is still working on that one)
Open fridge and drink a few COLD beers :)


More soon.

Those cabinets look awesome. Nice Job

Those cabinets look awesome. Nice Job
Thanks so much. I plan to attack it more this evening.

Looks nice as usual... and I thought I took a long time to complete a project:D

Looks nice as usual... and I thought I took a long time to complete a project:D
Thanks Chris. It seems to be the never ending project. This is probably the last major item on the list. Still more to do but the rest is a lot less time consuming.

I'm still waiting for a ride in that beautiful Cobra of yours :D ;)

Wet Bar Update…

Well, the day finally has come when I can say the upper cabinets are DONE! I thought I would never get to this point. I’m very satisfied with the final result. The room has some nice balance and actually looks finished. The wife is still stocking the shelves with items. We've decided to make the 3rd cabinet on the right more of a concession area for the kids with fun stuff for them.

Here are a few shots:

This is what it looks like from the seats.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/wb-uc-complete1.jpg

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/wb-uc-complete2.jpg


We went with some semi-obscure glass for the doors. It was nearly 4x the cost over clear glass but I think it looks great. I figured since I took the time to do all the stain grade wood inside the cabinet, I should be able to show it off :D

Shot without a flash
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/wb-uc-complete4.jpg

Shot with the flash – you can really see the pattern on the glass
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/wb-uc-complete5.jpg

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/wb-uc-complete6.jpg

Next is the backsplash. The wife is still deciding on what we’re going to do. I believe it will be a combo of (3) acoustical panels (to absorb sound) and glass tile. All TBD.

Well what can I say - looks superb!

Wow. That looks great. Job well done!

Well what can I say - looks superb!Wow. That looks great. Job well done!
Thanks guys. I've been up there a few times today and still cannot believe the cabinets are complete.

The next item to attack (while my wife is deciding on the backsplash) is to re-do the speaker boxes in the side columns. They need some work and it also gives me an opportunity to swap out the fabric to better bend in with the updated wall panels.

Since you mentioned backsplash...I could totally see some kind of transparent glass tile that would really look cool.

A pic for reference:
This pic is from a great Tile forum: www.johnbridge.com
http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=53814&stc=1&d=1242867969

looks nice as usual

Steve well played! Looks great, once again you have set the bar a notch higher :)

Steve, I just read your details on how you built these cabinets...I am planning a wet bar as well and I think I will use your build for reference.

I am curious why you went with #1 oak 1x3 for the door frames and then veneered both sides instead of just going with 3/4" MDF with the veneer all around (just like you did the cabinet carcass)?

Since you mentioned backsplash...I could totally see some kind of transparent glass tile that would really look cool.

A pic for reference:
This pic is from a great Tile forum: www.johnbridge.com

We've discuss that type/style as well as something like this. These are 3/4" red glass tiles. We talked about it probably a year ago so who knows what she has in mind today :rolleyes: I plan to start discussions again this week :D

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/redtile.jpg

looks nice as usual Steve well played! Looks great, once again you have set the bar a notch higher :)
Thanks again guys! And good "play" on words Jeff ;)

Steve, I just read your details on how you built these cabinets...I am planning a wet bar as well and I think I will use your build for reference.

I am curious why you went with #1 oak 1x3 for the door frames and then veneered both sides instead of just going with 3/4" MDF with the veneer all around (just like you did the cabinet carcass)?
It was mainly to speed things up. Since I used the solid material, I did not have to apply edge banding. I also did it because I had to put a groove in the back for the glass. I was worried that the edge banding would get really torn up routing the wood that much. The cost was not too much more (maybe $40) to use solid stock over MDF. The hardest part was getting straight pieces. I had to visit (3) stores to get what I needed.

And feel free to use my plans. I don't think there is much originality to them but they did work well. One "change" I would suggest it to make the bottom of the cabinets flat. I had left a 1/2" lip to hide the puck lights. However, I think it would look better being flat and having the light stick down a little more.

Wow Swithy, those are absolutely beautiful. Great work.

Wow Swithy, those are absolutely beautiful. Great work.
Thanks Mr. Chiahead :)

Hi Steve,

Awesome work.

I have a few questions for you about your router. I'm looking for my first and remember quite a discussion on your thread a couple of years ago. Reading back it looks like you went with a Freud.

Now I assume yours is a plunge router. Is a good quality plunge router like yours able to do all the work of a fixed base router as well? I also assume it can be mounted in a router table. Are there any advantages of getting a kit that has a fixed base as well as a plunge base over just getting a good plunge? I want something that wil last me forever and will allow me to do whatever I want. Plan on building my own speakers when the time comes and possible even some cabinet doors.

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated as far as fixed/plunge vs plunge and whether or not a plunge can be used in a table.

Thanks a lot,

Dan

Hi Steve,

Awesome work.

I have a few questions for you about your router. I'm looking for my first and remember quite a discussion on your thread a couple of years ago. Reading back it looks like you went with a Freud.

Now I assume yours is a plunge router. Is a good quality plunge router like yours able to do all the work of a fixed base router as well? I also assume it can be mounted in a router table. Are there any advantages of getting a kit that has a fixed base as well as a plunge base over just getting a good plunge? I want something that will last me forever and will allow me to do whatever I want. Plan on building my own speakers when the time comes and possible even some cabinet doors.

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated as far as fixed/plunge vs plunge and whether or not a plunge can be used in a table.

Thanks a lot,

Dan
Dan,

I cannot say I'm a router expert (and don't even play one on TV) BUT... I'll give you my two cents. I started out with an old Sears Router I got from my grandfather. It worked fine when routing MDF edges but did not have the HP or features to do some serious work. I looked at theDeWalt (http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW618PK-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00006JKXE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1244210986&sr=8-1) with the changeable bases and almost pulled the trigger. While the DeWalt is a solid router, I wanted to get something that I knew would be a workhorse and had a lot of power. It came down to theHitachi (http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-M12V2-4-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B000GKC28W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1244210348&sr=8-3) (recommended by MarkP) and theFreud (http://www.amazon.com/Freud-FT2200EP-4-Horsepower-Variable-Plunge/dp/B000AYTA2K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1244210788&sr=8-1). The Hitachi had a longer warranty and was actually less expensive. I picked the Freud since I wanted to share it with my Dad. He has one of those Shopsmith (http://www.shopsmith.com/) all-in-one tools and they recommended the Freud.

So plunge or not? To me, the plunge does everything I need. You can lock it into place and it is a fixed base router. I like the plunge part because I can easily adjust the depth of the router bit to get things "just" right.

One other VERY important feature in any router is one with a soft-start. This causes the router to slowly get to full speed over about 2-3 second -- no "jerk" when you turn it on. Also, variable speed is nice to have. Sometimes you want to route at slower or faster speeds (depending on the bit and the material you are routing). My Freud does all of these without any trouble and has LOTS of power to do almost anything. I've never bogged it down -- even routing through a 1.5" MDF/Ply sandwich with a 3/4" x 1.5" straight bit.

IMO, get a Heavy-Duty plunge router. You'll be very happy with the performance and it will last you a long time.

I recently purchased a small RIDGID (http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100337039) trim router to do the small jobs. $100 at HD. The Freud is big and heavy. This RIDGID works great for trimming wood veneer and cutting holes in Masonite for electrical outlets.

So buying tools never ends -- and the wife hates that. I keep telling her I'm saving us a bundle since I'm doing the work myself. That excuse works sometimes ;)

I've kind of rambled on but hope I answered your question.

Hi Steve,

Thanks a lot for the reply. I think I'm leaning towards the large plunge router rather than the set now after your experience and what I've obtained from other sources. Seems to be between the Hitachi and the Freud 2200 series. I guess it depends on whats on sale when I go shopping.

Thanks again. Experience from other non-pro users is very helpful.

Have a great weekend,

Dan

Steve is right on as usual. The DeWalt 621 (http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/tool_detail.asp?productID=113) is also a highly regarded here and over at HTGuide. This is the unit I have and love the dust collection aspect.

Cheers Jeff

Wet Bar Update…

Well, the day finally has come when I can say the upper cabinets are DONE! I thought I would never get to this point. I’m very satisfied with the final result. The room has some nice balance and actually looks finished. The wife is still stocking the shelves with items. We've decided to make the 3rd cabinet on the right more of a concession area for the kids with fun stuff for them.

Here are a few shots:

This is what it looks like from the seats.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/wb-uc-complete1.jpg

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/wb-uc-complete2.jpg


We went with some semi-obscure glass for the doors. It was nearly 4x the cost over clear glass but I think it looks great. I figured since I took the time to do all the stain grade wood inside the cabinet, I should be able to show it off :D

Shot without a flash
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/wb-uc-complete4.jpg

Shot with the flash – you can really see the pattern on the glass
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/wb-uc-complete5.jpg

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/wb-uc-complete6.jpg

Next is the backsplash. The wife is still deciding on what we’re going to do. I believe it will be a combo of (3) acoustical panels (to absorb sound) and glass tile. All TBD.

what kinda of wood is that?

what kinda of wood is that?
It is called Rift-Cut Red Oak. Looks great with the straight grain and stains very easily. I bought it in veneer form (4'x8' sheets).

You have to buy it at a specialty wood supplier. It is not available at Home Depot or Lowes.

Next is the backsplash. The wife is still deciding on what we’re going to do. I believe it will be a combo of (3) acoustical panels (to absorb sound) and glass tile. All TBD.

Absolutely stunning. Although you know your tastes, and your wife's, better than me, I would consider leaving the backsplash as it it is. Unless it looks different close up, I'd sat it looks mighty fine as is.

Absolutely stunning. Although you know your tastes, and your wife's, better than me, I would consider leaving the backsplash as it it is. Unless it looks different close up, I'd sat it looks mighty fine as is.
Thanks for the kind words on the room.

The backsplash kind of has a dual role. 1st, it will have some 2" thick panels to help absorb sound in the room. The room happens to be a first reflection point so I wanted to treat it accordingly. 2nd, yes, the wife wants something there. In person, it does not look bad, though. I'm still stoked that the bar cabinets are actually complete. Looking over at it during a movie always puts a smile on my face.

On a sad note -- the undercounter fridge died. Luckily, the fix is a simple $15 compressor relay (due in this week). It shouldn't take me more than 15 minutes to get it installed -- just in time for the Cowboy game on Friday night.

Steve,

The bar area turned out awesome!! Love the bubble glass.

Larry

I agree, that bar area is beautiful.

On a sad note -- the undercounter fridge died. Luckily, the fix is a simple $15 compressor relay (due in this week). It shouldn't take me more than 15 minutes to get it installed -- just in time for the Cowboy game on Friday night.

Maybe it'll behave now and not make any noise!

Steve,

The bar area turned out awesome!! Love the bubble glass.

Larry

I agree, that bar area is beautiful.
Thanks guys.

Maybe it'll behave now and not make any noise!
I'm not sure it will be any quieter but I'm hoping that it will run less. It seemed to run a lot right before the relay went out. I'm hoping the part will come in by Friday so I can get it installed and reclaim my bar area -- which is full of "refrigerator" right now :o

whew it really takes time doing those things but thats how life works!

whew it really takes time doing those things but thats how life works!
When you work nights and weekends (and build in family time to boot), it does take some time. With my luck, we'll move next year and I'll have to do it all over again ;)

With my luck, we'll move next year and I'll have to do it all over again ;)

Ok, so that is completely not funny considering I'm about the embark on my own HT journey...

When you work nights and weekends (and build in family time to boot), it does take some time. With my luck, we'll move next year and I'll have to do it all over again ;)

Ok, so that is completely not funny considering I'm about the embark on my own HT journey...

Trust me, it happens.

Wow! Steve, the wet bar looks awesome.

Wow, that bar area is really sharp!

CJ

Trust me, it happens.

I followed along, and that was my entire point! I feel your pain...:(

I followed along, and that was my entire point! I feel your pain...:(

I am thankful mine was for a positive reason (promotion, etc), and my delay in starting again is a big plus too (baby boy). But I do think of my father who built a darkroom in a house, then moved for a job and never rebuilt.

If U move, I want DIBS on the old house :D Hey if the fridge ends up dying, you can always get the beer launcher I forwarded you a while back instead!

Kid’s Game Room Media Center Project

Now that the home theater is about 98% complete (you know it will never be at 100%), my wife has convinced me that we need more viewing time in that room. It seems the kids want to use the room as much as we do. So, we decided to build-out the game room so that they could have their own viewing/gaming area.

We’ve always had a plan to build one of these and I guess the time has finally come. Our game room already has a perfect alcove for this built-in. The alcove is 10’ wide x 8’ tall x 2.5’ deep.

The idea is to have a desk area + media center + living room for the kids. The cabinets will be paint-grade to keep the cost down (most likely MDF). The paint color is still TBD. Of course, we'll have the normal media center goodies: 42” TV, 100+ motorized screen (for the movie experience) and 7.1 surround sound. Their (2) computers, AVR and Wii will be located in the lower center cabinet. I plan to vent the heat into the adjacent attic space. The motorized screen will be hidden in a little soffit behind the crown molding. There is a nice vault that goes all the way around the room which will accommodate in-ceiling speakers perfectly (hey, it's a kids room :o). The bad news (at least for my wallet) is it starts “the domino effect”. We’ll need to get a couch, desk chairs and all the needed AV equipment. So much fun.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/MediaCenter-Design4a.jpg


The cabinet door “style” will be a little unique. The wife saw this look in a magazine and said this is what she wants. If you look closely, the styles/rails angle down into the middle. Unfortunately, I do not have the proper tools to build these but do have a bid request out to my local cabinet guy. We'll see how the pricing turns out.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/MediaCenter-DoorStyle.jpg

I plan to get started next weekend on the lower section. I think after making the wet bar, the build process should be a lot faster/easier. More soon.

Let the games begin! Should be pretty cool! The kids should love it!

Let the games begin!
That comment could not be closer to the truth. We like to watch the Cowboys play and that seems to be when the kids want to watch a movie. Once this is completed, everyone will be happy :)

Kid’s Game Room Media Center Project



The cabinet door “style” will be a little unique. The wife saw this look in a magazine and said this is what she wants. If you look closely, the styles/rails angle down into the middle. Unfortunately, I do not have the proper tools to build these but do have a bid request out to my local cabinet guy. We'll see how the pricing turns out.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/MediaCenter-DoorStyle.jpg

I plan to get started next weekend on the lower section. I think after making the wet bar, the build process should be a lot faster/easier. More soon.

Can't you find a moulding that's similar to the stiles and rails ? I saw something like it at Home Depot. Make a raised panel, glue and tack it in place..

Do a search for raised panel door construction. You'll find plenty of info, but if you're just looking into saving time then the cabinet shop guy is the best option.

http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/7518/raisedpaneldoor.jpg

Can't you find a moulding that's similar to the stiles and rails ? I saw something like it at Home Depot. Make a raised panel, glue and tack it in place..

Do a search for raised panel door construction. You'll find plenty of info, but if you're just looking into saving time then the cabinet shop guy is the best option.
I never thought of adapting HD moulding to accomplish the task. I'll look into that tonight on the way home from work. Thanks for the tip!

BUT -- I do like the time saving idea of getting them pre-made (and I have buy-in from the wife). I may not want to pass up this rare opportunity (and get these cabinets built sooner than later).

BUT -- I do like the time saving idea of getting them pre-made (and I have buy-in from the wife). I may not want to pass up this rare opportunity (and get these cabinets built sooner than later).

I understand :D:D

this is an excuse to buy more tools... I am not sure what bits I would need to make these

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/

this is an excuse to buy more tools... I am not sure what bits I would need to make these

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/
Yes, more tools is always a good thing :D If a bit could cut that high angle, it would be one HUGE bit.

Can I adopt you to be my dad? Your kid's media room kicks the ass of my home theater! PLEASE!!!!! :D

Can I adopt you to be my dad? Your kid's media room kicks the ass of my home theater! PLEASE!!!!! :D
Thanks Scott. I'm happy with the design as well. Wish I had something like this when I was a kid! I'm excited about starting construction on the cabinet next weekend. Hopefully my wife won't make an 11th hour change after I've pre-cut all the wood :eek:

Yes, more tools is always a good thing :D If a bit could cut that high angle, it would be one HUGE bit.

Not only will it be a huge bit, but you will need the stability of a router table to machine the wood. It is a profile that might need several small passes.

It seems the kids want to use the room as much as we do.

After just now having to watch Yo Gabba Gabba on the big screen for the umpteenth time, I completely understand the NEED to have a separate setup just for the kids.

We like to watch the Cowboys play...

The real question is, "Do you like to watch the Cowboys get beat, by the Broncos?"

After just now having to watch Yo Gabba Gabba on the big screen for the umpteenth time, I completely understand the NEED to have a separate setup just for the kids.

Don't hate on Yo Gabba Gabba - its one of the more bearable kid shows.

The real question is, "Do you like to watch the Cowboys get beat, by the Broncos?"

Are you serious ?? What was you're line up so far? The Bengals, Browns and Raiders ? Please brutha stop day dreaming...:D


GO COWBOYS

http://img2.allposters.com/images/PHO/AAGL098.jpg

Are you serious ?? What was you're line up so far? The Bengals, Browns and Raiders ? Please brutha stop day dreaming...:D


GO COWBOYS



Um, the Bengals are 2-1 at least, with wins against two pretty good teams and the only loss against the Broncos. The Cowboys 2 wins this year are against teams that are 0-3 each (Bucs and my beloved, yet struggling Panthers). :rolleyes:

Um, the Bengals are 2-1 at least, with wins against two pretty good teams and the only loss against the Broncos. The Cowboys 2 wins this year are against teams that are 0-3 each (Bucs and my beloved, yet struggling Panthers). :rolleyes:


I know. I know, but I just like to "stir the pot" :D

The real question is, "Do you like to watch the Cowboys get beat, by the Broncos?"

Yea what he said :)

I know. I know, but I just like to "stir the pot" :D

BTW, do you know what 4,660 means? :D

After just now having to watch Yo Gabba Gabba on the big screen for the umpteenth time, I completely understand the NEED to have a separate setup just for the kids.
My kids don't watch that show -- benefits of not having a 3 year old :D. I think their favorite right now is Phineas and Ferb. I just watch it in wonder -- a very clever show. Now let me get back to He-Man and the Masters of the Universe marathon ;)

The real question is, "Do you like to watch the Cowboys get beat, by the Broncos?"
It's still too early to tell what will happen with the boys this year. Romo looks a little uncomfortable when he plays these days. A friend of mine mentioned how calm Troy A. was when he played. We'll see how they do on Sunday.

And to stir the pot even more ... My wife is already getting excited about the OU vs. Texas game in a few weeks. Not sure OU can pull it out this year (especially with Sam Bradford's injury) but we'll be cheering for them.

... Not sure OU can pull it out this year (especially with Sam Bradford's injury) but we'll be cheering for them.

If OU looses the game, your wife can always say the Sooners are in their rebuilding years..:D

This is really great work!

You don't do P90X in this room do ya?

If OU looses the game, your wife can always say the Sooners are in their rebuilding years..:D
I'll make sure to tell her that YOU said that :D

You don't do P90X in this room do ya?
Never -- that's sacred land in there :eek:. I moved a bed out of a guest room and used that instead. I completed the P90X (http://www.beachbody.com/product/fitness_programs/p90x_ripped.do?code=BBHOME_PARSEB_FEATURED_P90X) program today and currently in the process of putting the room back together. I'm in the best shape of my life. The plan is to repeat it before the start of next summer.

Since I'm tired of getting up at 5:15am every morning, I will be joining the gym at work to continue with a different (but similar) program during my lunch hour.

Never -- that's sacred land in there :eek:. I moved a bed out of a guest room and used that instead. I completed the P90X (http://www.beachbody.com/product/fitness_programs/p90x_ripped.do?code=BBHOME_PARSEB_FEATURED_P90X) program today and currently in the process of putting the room back together. I'm in the best shape of my life. The plan is to repeat it before the start of next summer.

Since I'm tired of getting up at 5:15am every morning, I will be joining the gym at work to continue with a different (but similar) program during my lunch hour.


I finished my second round (in a row) of P90X a couple weeks ago. I didn't follow the nutrition plan so I didn't lose any weight, but I definitely got quite a bit stronger. I also get up really early to do it (bleh).

I started "Insanity" (also by Beachbody) this week. It makes Tony Horton's workouts look sedate. Basically high intensity interval training. The other benefit is that on average, the workouts are shorter, too. :)

My biggest complaint about P90X was that it didn't have enough cardio emphasis. Overall a decent program though. After I finish Insanity, I may start up P90X again, but sub out some Plyo, Kempo, Yoga (yuck!), Core, and Cardio-X for Insanity routines.

And I actually did do P90X in my theater. THe only other TV we have is in the bedroom and the wife wouldn't appreciate it at 5:30am. Not to mention, I don't need my contacts to see the screen this way. :)

Game Room Media Center Update…

Well, I worked the past few weekends and made some nice progress on the Kids Media Center. I have all 3 lower MDF cabinet built as well as the countertop. The center cabinet has a removable vertical support in case I ever want to go with (2) full width center shelves (i.e. when I get new smaller PCs for the kids and can fit them on a single shelf). I also put a few large holes in the back for (2) 120mm cooling muffin fans. Luckily I have an attic space on the other side of the wall that I can use to exhaust the heat. There are (6) 2” diameter holes in the front kick for air supply. This cabinet will store at least (2) PCs, an AVR and a Blu-Ray player.

My wife wanted a hunky counter top. It is 2” thick and is made out of MDF (¾” MDF on the top, ¾” MDF skeleton and ½” MDF on the bottom). I estimate the weight of this monster around 125lbs. It is 10’ 9” long and 24" deep. The final length will be around 10’ 7”. Once I get the cabinets installed, I’ll make a paper template and cut the counter top accordingly.

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/KMC-LowerRaw.JPG


What’s not built yet are the (8) drawers and the (2) cabinet doors. I’m planning to pick up my ½ Baltic Birch plywood this week and begin building the drawers next weekend. I’ve hired out the all cabinet doors and drawer fronts (given their complex design). I should have my sample door this week for approval.

More soon…

I finished my second round (in a row) of P90X a couple weeks ago. I didn't follow the nutrition plan so I didn't lose any weight, but I definitely got quite a bit stronger. I also get up really early to do it (bleh).

I started "Insanity" (also by Beachbody) this week. It makes Tony Horton's workouts look sedate. Basically high intensity interval training. The other benefit is that on average, the workouts are shorter, too. :)

My biggest complaint about P90X was that it didn't have enough cardio emphasis. Overall a decent program though. After I finish Insanity, I may start up P90X again, but sub out some Plyo, Kempo, Yoga (yuck!), Core, and Cardio-X for Insanity routines.

And I actually did do P90X in my theater. The only other TV we have is in the bedroom and the wife wouldn't appreciate it at 5:30am. Not to mention, I don't need my contacts to see the screen this way. :)
Congratulations on finishing (2) rounds of P90X. That's fantastic! I'm taking this week off and actually feel a bit guilty not working out - damn you Tony Horton ;) I stuck with the diet about 95% and lost weight and inches off my waist. I'm familiar with the "Insanity" program. It literally looks "insane". If you are after cardio, this program is the perfect fit! Personally, I enjoy the lifting part more -- but you have a interesting idea of mixing in the "Insanity" in place of the P90X cardio. I was actually going to try out the P90X+ cardio next time and see how that worked out.

I originally considered using the home theater for the workout but did not have a good place for the pull-up bar. For my "guest room" setup, I hooked up an old work projector and some speakers so I could see everything at 100" :D It was also nice to have a room that I did not have to break-apart every day. However, the wife is happy to have the room back to normal.

What, no talk about how the "pretender" Broncos stuffed the much ballyhooed #1 rushing offense in the NFL? ;)

Anyone know what the number 74 represents? (hint: it has something to do with yards)

What, no talk about how the "pretender" Broncos stuffed the much ballyhooed #1 rushing offense in the NFL? ;)

Anyone know what the number 74 represents? (hint: it has something to do with yards)
I'll guess that it is the number of rushing yards for Dallas.

The Broncos 4-0 start is rather amazing, but I still say it is against some pretty bad teams. Cleveland, Oakland and Dallas will all finish near the bottom of the standings this year. Cincinnati is the only decent win and look what it took to get that win.
BTW, do you know what 4,660 means? :D

This number is more important. And today it is actually 4,664. It is the number of days since the Cowgirls last won a playoff game! :D

The Broncos 4-0 start is rather amazing, but I still say it is against some pretty bad teams. Cleveland, Oakland and Dallas will all finish near the bottom of the standings this year. Cincinnati is the only decent win and look what it took to get that win.

Luckily, when counting up wins at the end of the regular season to determine who gets the division, playoffs, and home field advantage, they don't ask how, just how many. :cool:

Luckily, when counting up wins at the end of the regular season to determine who gets the division, playoffs, and home field advantage, they don't ask how, just how many. :cool:

Thanks, I wasn't aware of that! :rolleyes:

My point is that you shouldn't count your chickens before they hatch. The season is long and you have some tough opponents ahead. Still I would be much happier if my Panthers were 4-0 against some iffy teams than 0-3 with a lot of questions. :(

What, no talk about how the "pretender" Broncos stuffed the much ballyhooed #1 rushing offense in the NFL? ;)

Anyone know what the number 74 represents? (hint: it has something to do with yards)
It was upsetting to say the least for ifeliciano and me. I really thought we would have made that last pass in to make it into overtime. The Cowboys do look like they are having a hard time this year :(

What, no talk about how the "pretender" Broncos stuffed the much ballyhooed #1 rushing offense in the NFL? ;)



I can't say much with my foot in my mouth. :(

Go Cowboys!

Go Cowboys!

Yeah !

Media Center Update….

I’ve been pretty busy lately but was able to make some progress on the Kid’s Media Center.

Originally I was planning to have my cabinet guy make the doors. It ended up he did not have the bit to do what we wanted. He said the router bit he needed would run $400. I decided to go ahead and make them myself to save the cash. We went with a simple design and my wife is happy with the results (more on that later).

The first step was to make a router table. I looked into buying one but ultimately decided to make a quick one myself. I bought a piece of ¾” Melamine from HD as my base material. I used my existing miter saw table and put the router table right on top. Total cost $35.

Here is a front shot. The fence is fully adjustable and the melamine makes it very easy to slide wood over the surface.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/RouterTable1.JPG


Here is the back. The angled box is used for dust collection. I simply plug in my shop-vac hose and it takes care of the rest.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/RouterTable2.JPG


And this is the monster router bit. It is normally used to make the inside panel for raised panel doors. At 3.5” wide, I would not recommend using it without a router table and mounted router.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/RouterBit.JPG


Because I needed room with the European hinges on the other side of the door, I was forced to move up to 1” MDF. I special ordered a sheet from HD ($46). Here is comparison shot of normal ¾" and 1” MDF. A 4x8 sheet of this stuff is quite heavy. Luckily I had it cut down a little when I was at HD.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/KMC-MDFCompare.JPG


And finally the doors. It took about 3 passes with the router bit to get the depth I needed. The edges are white because I used a little trick I learned from one of the guys on the board. By putting drywall mud on any exposed edge, the edges get sealed and paint goes on much more evenly. The steps are: 1) Apply the mud, 2) wipe it off with a putty knife, 3) let dry, 4) sand and 5) paint.

I plan to paint the doors and cabinet this weekend.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/KMC-RawCabDoor1.JPG

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/KMC-RawCabDoor2.JPG




And one side project I completed before I started on the Media Center. My garage was full of wood. I could not even get in/out of my car that easily. I had the idea of using the space above my garage door as storage for this extra wood. It has worked out GREAT and my garage seems twice as big! It is about 18' wide x 8' deep and hangs down about 2' from my 10’ ceiling.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/GarageRack.JPG

Steve, Doors look Great, gives me the confidence to try making my own raised panels for columns.

Router Table... Very Cool, I had been looking at purchasing a larger one, but somehow several cases of beer and a couple pieces of melamine sound like a much better investment.. Watch for the "Hoosier" version to be released later this fall:)

I just looked at a couple of my routers, and none appeared even close to the 3 hole pattern/ screw size you used to mount yours. Did you use clamps to mount the router to the underside of the MDF? (thats how they mount to my small router table)

Happy Sawdust,

Brad

I'm looking to make a router table attachment for my Ridgid 24000 tablesaw and was wondering if you could show a pic or two of how you connected the router to the top. I believe I have the same router as you do (big Frued). Any pics (at your earliest convenience) would be greatly appreciated.

Doors look sweet. Thanks for passing along the tip about the drywall mud.

Dan

Steve, how do you regulate the travel of that fence? What keeps it straight and how do you fix it in place?

Love it! Keep the pics comin'

Your work alone never ceases to amaze, now your building your own tools basically!!! Very nice. Doors came out great, as said above keep the pics comin.

Still building stuff Steve? You're just a DIY addict ;)

Bryan

Homemade router table - way to go Steve!
I like the way you think.

This is the homemade "portable" one my father in-law made for my project this summer (Thanks Again - Dad)

Check out the infinitely adjustable fence, and adjustable legs

:-)

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd153/cuzed2/RouterTable.jpg

Go Cowboys!
Yeah !
We've had a good run! Last Sunday's game was awesome!

This next game is the one that will count the most-- The Eagles.

Steve, Doors look Great, gives me the confidence to try making my own raised panels for columns.

Router Table... Very Cool, I had been looking at purchasing a larger one, but somehow several cases of beer and a couple pieces of melamine sound like a much better investment.. Watch for the "Hoosier" version to be released later this fall:)

I just looked at a couple of my routers, and none appeared even close to the 3 hole pattern/ screw size you used to mount yours. Did you use clamps to mount the router to the underside of the MDF? (thats how they mount to my small router table)

Happy Sawdust,

Brad
Thanks Brad. I put it off for years but finally had a project worthy of having one.

No clamps used. My router came with 3 screw holes specifically used to mount it to a table. I just traced them onto the board, drilled, countersunk and screwed them into the router. I did have to buy some longer screws from HD.

I like the idea of a a clamp system better but this was quick and dirty. I plan to but a "true" router plate eventually and use that to attach to the router.

I'm looking to make a router table attachment for my Ridgid 24000 tablesaw and was wondering if you could show a pic or two of how you connected the router to the top. I believe I have the same router as you do (big Frued). Any pics (at your earliest convenience) would be greatly appreciated.

Doors look sweet. Thanks for passing along the tip about the drywall mud.

Dan

Dan,

I was very focused on painting this weekend and did not have a chance to take any pics. Basicaly, I cut a circular hole large enough to fit the bit. Next, I took the router base plate off, marked the holes and drilled accordingly. Lastly, you screwed in from the screws from the top into the base of the router. I'll try to get some pics for you next time I'm in the garage.

Yes, the tip about using the drywall mud works like a charm. Paint goes on great the first time!

Steve, how do you regulate the travel of that fence? What keeps it straight and how do you fix it in place?
I have a pin on one side of the fence and use a clamp to secure it on the other. It basically pivits. I can't take credit for the design -- I saw a few builds like this on the internet.

Love it! Keep the pics comin'
Your work alone never ceases to amaze, now our building your own tools basically!!! Very nice. Doors came out great, as said above keep the pics comin.
Still building stuff Steve? You're just a DIY addict ;)

Bryan
Thanks guys. Sometimes when you DIY, you have a "DOE" day. Well, today was one of those days. After taking Friday off to get everything painted, I put my last coat of paint on this morning (2 coats of primer and 3 coats of paint). I had sprayed everything and everything looked great! I was feeling good.

We decided to match the color of the trim we have in the house (kind of an off-white color). I took one of the completed cabinet doors into the house to show the wife my handy work. The wife saw it and said the doors looked a little yellow. I explained how I matched an old piece of trim I removed from our laundry room (and even showed her the piece I matched). Well, it appears that my builder used a slightly different color in the laundry room.

To say I'm a bit miffed (at myself) is an understatment. The wife is off to the paint store tomorrow to pick up the actual Kwal (formally Jones Blair) paint swatch and take it to Sherwin Williams to have them match that. This is probably what I should have done in the beginning :(

Oh well, lesson learned. I plan to go into work a little late on Wed and spray it first thing in the morning. With the time change, it is impossible to do it when I get home from work.

More soon...

Homemade router table - way to go Steve!
I like the way you think.

This is the homemade "portable" one my father in-law made for my project this summer (Thanks Again - Dad)

Check out the infinitely adjustable fence, and adjustable legs

:-)


Nice DIY table. I like the little on/off foot petal you have on the ground. Looks like you built you own router plate as well. I may do the same thing. Thanks for the pic!

This next game is the one that will count the most-- The Eagles.
Watching the game as I type! Go Cowboys!

Kids Media Center Update….

Ahh, I was finally able to get the lower cabinets installed and put the near 150+lb counter top in place. I’m happy with the results. In person, the room color is a darker orange (almost burnt orange) than what shows in the pics. You’ll need to talk to my wife about that color. She saw it in a few magazines and knew that was the color for the room. The idea was to make this a fun "tween-er" room for my girls -- whatever that means ;).

I do plan to put a backing in the knee space -- but wanted to wait until I knew the exact width. That backing will also allow me to raise and center the outlets to get them out of view. I hid a few outlets in the back of the drawer units to plug in the lamps my wife plans to put on the counter top. I also will be building some pencil drawers for the knee space as well. Drawer and cabinet door hardware is still TBD but will probably be a brushed stainless steel something. And let's not forget the upper cabinets still have to be built :p

Oh -- and installed a 6.1 surround system (all ceiling speakers) along with a 92" motorized screen (which will be hidden from view behind crown molding). I also plan to build a custom sub woofer. Yes, I'm building a ported 6 cu.ft. sub woofer with a 12" woof that will be disguised as side lamp table (Thank you WAF!). That one should be a fun build.

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Gameroom2.JPG

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Gameroom2b.JPG

I was able to get my hands on a used 3000 lumen Sharp 4:3 projector for a heck of a deal (free). This thing is mega-bright. I put it in 16:9 mode and it works perfectly. I have a little light spill above and below (because of the 4:3 to 16:9 conversion) but overall very happy with the results. You can still see the image with all the lights on and windows uncovered. At night, there is NO need for a light as it lights up then entire room. This is truly a light canon. I plan to paint the projector mount white to help it bend in better with the ceiling (wife's request).

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/KMC-Projector1.JPG

I still have a bunch to do on the punch list but it looks like the lower cabinets will be complete by T-Day. Now we can watch the Cowboys play and the kids can watch a movie in their own Media Room :D Happy that I can check a few items off the Media Center list!

DON'T DO IT!!!!!! Adding more cabinets means the kids will just accumulate more junk. It won't make the room any neater.

DON'T DO IT!!!!!! Adding more cabinets means the kids will just accumulate more junk. It won't make the room any neater.
You are probably right. Hmm, I'll just put up a 150" 1.78:1 screen and mark it DONE :D Hey, I think you just saved me about 2 weeks worth of work -- thanks :p

Glad I could help. How 'bout that invite... I can bring my media server over to demo it for you.

[QUOTE=swithey;17287388] I think their favorite right now is Phineas and Ferb. I just watch it in wonder -- a very clever show.QUOTE]im 38 that my favorite show:D

My 10 year old daughter watching that show too. I also find it a clever show compared to some of the other shows she watches, but my wife doesn't care for it. Crazy wife of mine!

Can I ask where you purchased your metal inlays? I went to Lowes this weekend and they didn't carry them. I tried to search your thread but couldn't find it.

Thanks!

Can I ask where you purchased your metal inlays? I went to Lowes this weekend and they didn't carry them. I tried to search your thread but couldn't find it.

Thanks!
I purchased mine at Home Depot. They sell for about $10 for 8'. They cut very easily with a compound miter saw. Just be sure to purchase a non-ferrous Metal cutting blade.

ceilings look amazing

Quick Update -- I updated the pics on the first page. I was able to use a wide angle lens and it made a huge difference.

Quick Update -- I updated the pics on the first page. I was able to use a wide angle lens and it made a huge difference.

Wow, great pics (not to mention the room of course) - huge is the operative word, the wide angle really makes the room look big.

Wow, great pics (not to mention the room of course) - huge is the operative word, the wide angle really makes the room look big.
Thanks Brad. I could not believe how much the wide angle added to the quality of the photo either. It is the only way to photograph more of what the human eye "sees" in real life.

BTW -- your room is coming along very nicely. It will be nice to see the final product!

BTW -- your room is coming along very nicely. It will be nice to see the final product!

Thanks Steve, I appreciate it - if I can get to 75% of what you've accomplished - well, I will have gotten about 25% further than I expected. :p