Hey guys. I just put 35 Insteon switches and keypads in my new house. In the process of setting them up now. I like them, but I will say they may not be as reliable as I'm used to (had a Lutron RadioRA before). Some of them are flaking out a bit (seem to work but don't operate the light, won't link, etc.) - but I haven't completed the setup yet so hopefully, things will iron out. Tough to argue with the price. I saved a bundle over the RadioRA system.
ebr,

Let me know how it works once you get them all installed. You might need to install a few of the RF repeaters (http://www.smarthome.com/2442p.html) around the house. I bought the kit (http://www.smarthome.com/2493.html) that had (2) of them for that very reason.

Hey guys. I just put 35 Insteon switches and keypads in my new house. In the process of setting them up now. I like them, but I will say they may not be as reliable as I'm used to (had a Lutron RadioRA before). Some of them are flaking out a bit (seem to work but don't operate the light, won't link, etc.) - but I haven't completed the setup yet so hopefully, things will iron out. Tough to argue with the price. I saved a bundle over the RadioRA system.

Are your switches all on the same phase on your panel....I think I read the signals have difficulty on different phases.

Also I thought all Insteon switches act as a repeater - thats one of their benefits.

Are your switches all on the same phase on your panel....I think I read the signals have difficulty on different phases.

Also I thought all Insteon switches act as a repeater - thats one of their benefits.
You make a good point. If they do pass a phase in the panel, things may not work out well. That is what the RF Signal Enhancers/Repeaters are really designed to fix. And yes, the switches do "repeat" each other to keep the signal strong and clean.

Luckily, all my lighting in the HT is on the same circuit but the ones throughout the house will be a different story :rolleyes:

Bud,

Just posted to his thread requesting a review :D Of course there are better (more expensive) subs out there, but for the money, this sub should rock.

I am in the midst of my own HT/Media room project, and I have a question about the placing of your subwoofer. From the drawing back at post 113 it appears that you are going to have the sub mounted under the screen as a built-in. I've been thinking about doing something very similar, but I haven't been able to find out if there are going to be compromises in bass response if I do so. Have you considered this or found a source of information? I've considered curving the back wall of the "enclosure" to force the bass out into the room.

I am on a bit more of a budget than many here in these forums, and I have a Cambridge Soundworks BassCube 12" down-firing acoustic suspension sub. I've also given consideration to laying the sub on it's side with the speaker pointing into the room (and the amp side up.)

Thanks in advance for any info. I've found these forums to be an immense source of information, and it's fun to live vicariously through those with much larger budgets.

thanks steve for the info. good stuff.

I do have the ir543 with x-ten switches. one of the reasons I would like to go with the Insteon switches.

I have six of the "signal enhancers" - two for each floor. I haven't had much trouble with them talking to one another. Its been more weird stuff like the switch operating (the LEDs changing like they're supposed to) but not actually operating the load to which its attached. The weirdest part is that it used to and just quit one day. I have one light that won't turn on and one that won't turn off and haven't had time to really chase down what the problem is yet.

ebr,
It sounds like they may just be shot and need of a warranty replacement?

I am in the midst of my own HT/Media room project, and I have a question about the placing of your subwoofer. From the drawing back at post 113 it appears that you are going to have the sub mounted under the screen as a built-in. I've been thinking about doing something very similar, but I haven't been able to find out if there are going to be compromises in bass response if I do so. Have you considered this or found a source of information? I've considered curving the back wall of the "enclosure" to force the bass out into the room.

I am on a bit more of a budget than many here in these forums, and I have a Cambridge Soundworks BassCube 12" down-firing acoustic suspension sub. I've also given consideration to laying the sub on it's side with the speaker pointing into the room (and the amp side up.)

Thanks in advance for any info. I've found these forums to be an immense source of information, and it's fun to live vicariously through those with much larger budgets.
Patrick,

Glad you are building on a HT room for yourself. It is an exciting and challenging experience for everyone.

As far as subs, location and number - it really all depends on your room setup, size, seating position, room treatments, etc. So your question is a bit hard to answer. With my limited knowledge based on info gathered from this board and from others like AVSuser bpape/bryan, having dual subs is nice. If you have one in the front and one in the back, it tends to smooth out the response a bit. With that said, there are plenty of people putting 1,2 or 3 subs in the front or back of the room and having great results.

The trick is to get your sub, a Radio Shack meter (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103667&cp=&origkw=meter&kw=meter&parentPage=search) and some free software (http://www.hometheatershack.com/roomeq/) loaded on your PC to do a room analysis. You put the RS Meter (it acts as a microphone) in your listening position and you run test tones. The software creates a graph of the frequency response. You want the response to be as flat as possible across the entire sub woofer frequency range. If it does not look good, you move the sub to another location in the room until you find the sweet spot. Unfortunately, this "sweet" spot may not be the most ideal spot in the room (like in front of a door, in the middle of a walkway, etc.) This is where you just find the best spot you can deal with and go with that. However, if you really want to tune the response, use an EQ (http://www.zzounds.com/item--BEHDSP1124P) to bring up the low levels and bring down the high levels to smooth your response even more. The more subs you have in the room, the more complicated it is to get everything right. However, once you do, you are one happy camper.

That's a real quick "readers digest edition" explanation. I'm sure many people can add quite a bit more. You might want to check out the AVSForum Subwoofer area HERE (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=113) for more details.

Since post #113, I have changed to an Infinite Baffle sub (vs. a pair of ported subs). This will use the attic as the "enclosure". I plan to have (4) 15" drivers in the wall behind the screen. It will be a monster and not sure if my wife is prepared for the impact. I'll have some Depends on hand just in case :D Ideally, I could use a additional sub in the rear but I’ll just need to see how this sounds first.

Painting Update...

After another coat (sprayed on this time) of eggshell, the paint still looked splotchy (keep in mind this was the 3rd coat and we had another coat of a med brown paint below that). The painter said it was the sheen in the eggshell that was causing the issue . We took (2) gallons back to Lowes, told them the paint was not drying right and they gave us (2) gal of FLAT/MATTE in the same color for free. We rolled that on and the ceiling looks perfect. And because this is an acrylic based paint, it still has a very light slight sheen to it (which is what the wife wanted). But WOW does the room smell like paint. I was only up there about 5 minutes this morning and I already have a headache. I'm glad the window in the room is not covered up yet!

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/ceiling-flat.jpg

ebr -- I love the color. Thanks for the suggestion :)

Wow that color looks great!!!! You're making great progress. Keep it up.

Wow that color looks great!!!! You're making great progress. Keep it up.
Thanks Jon. Now I need to get back to those columns. I made a mistake and messed one of them up a few days ago. I'm still a little mad at myself :mad: so I have not worked on them for a few days. Luckily, I have (2) spare columns to use -- which makes me feel a little better.

Painting Update...

After another coat (sprayed on this time) of eggshell, the paint still looked splotchy (keep in mind this was the 3rd coat and we had another coat of a med brown paint below that). The painter said it was the sheen in the eggshell that was causing the issue . We took (2) gallons back to Lowes, told them the paint was not drying right and they gave us (2) gal of FLAT/MATTE in the same color for free. We rolled that on and the ceiling looks perfect. And because this is an acrylic based paint, it still has a very light slight sheen to it (which is what the wife wanted). But WOW does the room smell like paint. I was only up there about 5 minutes this morning and I already have a headache. I'm glad the window in the room is not covered up yet!

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/ceiling-flat.jpg

ebr -- I love the color. Thanks for the suggestion :)

The paint looks fantastic!

Before we moved into our new home (three years ago, now) we had the whole house painted with a custom color, walls and ceilings. We had noticed some streaking/banding on the ceilings, and on the walls where the painter had done some touchups. It looked like you could see the roller marks. The painter came back several times (half dozen or more), tried rolling and spraying, and still couldn't get it right. They brought out a manufacturer's rep., and they couldn't solve the problem either. If memory serves me correctly, I believe it was also eggshell. We finally got fed up and moved in. We'll likely start having rooms repainted (new colors, I'm getting tired of this one), so I'll look into the flat/matte. Hopefully the results will significantly improve.

The paint looks fantastic!

Before we moved into our new home (three years ago, now) we had the whole house painted with a custom color, walls and ceilings. We had noticed some streaking/banding on the ceilings, and on the walls where the painter had done some touchups. It looked like you could see the roller marks. The painter came back several times (half dozen or more), tried rolling and spraying, and still couldn't get it right. They brought out a manufacturer's rep., and they couldn't solve the problem either. If memory serves me correctly, I believe it was also eggshell. We finally got fed up and moved in. We'll likely start having rooms repainted (new colors, I'm getting tired of this one), so I'll look into the flat/matte. Hopefully the results will significantly improve.
That's good to know that someone else has had the same trouble. Interestingly enough, ebr had the same issue but on the 3rd coat, it looked perfect. It could have also been the Lowes American Traditions paint. It may not be the best quality paint in the world. I should have used Sherwin Williams like the painter suggested -- I just didn't have the time to get a color match (they wanted a few days to do it).

Re: Insteon switch performance... I've yet to install mine yet, but kept my lightng circuits on the same phase for exactly this reason.

If you can't change that in your panel, there's a Coupler (http://www.smarthome.com/4816H.html) (originally designed for X10) that will bridge RF accross both phases of your panel.

Painting Update...

The painter said it was the sheen in the eggshell that was causing the issue . We took (2) gallons back to Lowes, told them the paint was not drying right and they gave us (2) gal of FLAT/MATTE in the same color for free.

We were using lowes paint when painting several room in our house. Spent over $300 in paint and two days. Tried roll and spraying the paint over a pros primer and first coat. He refinished the ceiling for us, removed the old pop corn finish. We tried an additional three coats of Lowes paint and it NEVER looked even.

We returned paint , got new paint etc... nothing help. Until we change to a different paint brand. One coat, using rollers, of the different companies paint and the ceiling looked great.

I would never use then Blue stores paint again!

We were using lowes paint when painting several room in our house. Spent over $300 in paint and two days. Tried roll and spraying the paint over a pros primer and first coat. He refinished the ceiling for us, removed the old pop corn finish. We tried an additional three coats of Lowes paint and it NEVER looked even.

We returned paint , got new paint etc... nothing help. Until we change to a different paint brand. One coat, using rollers, of the different companies paint and the ceiling looked great.

I would never use then Blue stores paint again!
After hearing that and with my own experience -- I feel the same way!!

When first coming to US (5yrs ago) I first used the Lowes American Tradition and never liked to finish. I've had more success with Behr froim Home Depot........A neighbor swears Wallmarts paints are pretty good but I've never tried......since I've been happy with Behr I've continued to use them.

Wal-Marts paint is by far the best on the market and cheap. They will also match anything you take to them perfectly

Steve, I have been out of the country this week and just now had a chance to catch up on your thread. The paint looks great. I am thinking about doing my ceiling in the same color until I go with the stars.

Ronnie

Steve, I have been out of the country this week and just now had a chance to catch up on your thread. The paint looks great. I am thinking about doing my ceiling in the same color until I go with the stars.

Ronnie
Just stay away from Lowes paint!!

Thanks everyone for sharing your stories and suggestions. Hopefully others can benefit from my misfortune.

It looks great, very nice color choice. I may have missed it some where, but what's the name of it? I used a similar color called Myth from Behr. Had Walmart first clone it for primer coat with no problems and perfect match to the naked eye. Although, I was skeptical that they had to manually add the mixes, but no difference what so ever.

It looks great, very nice color choice. I may have missed it some where, but what's the name of it? I used a similar color called Myth from Behr. Had Walmart first clone it for primer coat with no problems and perfect match to the naked eye. Although, I was skeptical that they had to manually add the mixes, but no difference what so ever.
It's called Volcano - Vaspar brand at Lowes. Get the color and have it cloned at Walmart. The American Traditions paint (this is the paint they used for this color) is horrible.

Mini Update...

Hey everyone. Hope the "Dads" had a great Sunday. My wife gave me the day to work on the HT. I did take some time off on Sunday to play with the kids in the backyard on our waterslide (http://i.walmart.com/i/p/00/02/67/53/26/0002675326364_500X500.jpg) -- they loved having me out there with them. It was definitely one of those Citibank “priceless” moments. Guess the HT won out over a backyard pool :D

I mentioned that I messed up one of my columns last week and was pretty mad at myself for making the mistake. It was on my mind every night as I went to bed and every morning when I woke up. Luckily I did not dream about it :p I was convinced that it would bother me enough that I would either need to repair it somehow or build a new column (which did not interest me at all).

This is what I did: As I was routing the LAST groove for the metal inlays on one of the columns, my router veered off-track and started moving away from my line (like ½” away which is HUGE). I use a straight edge on one side and as long as you keep pressure on it, you get a perfect cut every time. Anyway, I think my mind had wondered and before I knew it, it was it was too late.

I finally figured out I could remove the section of veneer, bondo the mistake and put a new piece on. The repair has been done and I plan to glue the new piece of veneer on tonight. You do not know how happy I am that I could repair the error. This just happened to be on the 1st column you see when entering the room. That would have bugged me every time I went into the room.

So.. the day was the repair, finishing up the grooving and some light sanding on all the grooves to clean them up.


What’s next:
- Finish the repair and re-apply the veneer
- Cut the speaker holes in the rear columns.
- Route some speaker grooves to accept speaker cloth for the 2 front surround columns that will NOT have speakers in them. I’m doing this for symmetry (to have speaker cloth on all columns). I plan to route a ¼” deep groove to accept a ¼” luan speaker frame that will be wrapped in speaker cloth. This will allow the speaker cloth to set flush with the front of the column and look (to the untrained eye) like there is actually a speaker inside. I’ll detail this when I actually do the work.
- STAIN, STAIN, STAIN!

Sorry I have not been moving as fast at “Super Bud” but I promise to have more soon :)

Hey, progress is progress! It's coming together, and looking good. Don't ya just hate messing something up and then you have to take the time to fix it. Seems like I did a bunch of that....

Hey, progress is progress! It's coming together, and looking good. Don't ya just hate messing something up and then you have to take the time to fix it. Seems like I did a bunch of that....
Glad I'm not alone in the "mistake" department. Thanks for the vote of confidence.

Sorry I have not been moving as fast at “Super Bud” but I promise to have more soon :)

Well, it took me a year still! Its not me you need to compare to, Drew makes me look like I'm in super slow-mo.

Bud

Well, it took me a year still! Its not me you need to compare to, Drew makes me look like I'm in super slow-mo.

Bud
I envy that you are nearly there.

I did some more sample staining last night and am not happy. I left the stain on for 10min (vs. 5 before) and am not happy with the results. I'm going to try another 5min + 5min 2nd coat tonight and see how it turns out. Since I only get one chance at this, I want to be sure it's right.

And, yes, I am that anal. BPape can attest to that :rolleyes:

Hey Steve....that waterslide looks awesome!!! How do your kids like it?? Is it pretty sturdy. I may get one for my kids.

Hey Steve....that waterslide looks awesome!!! How do your kids like it?? Is it pretty sturdy. I may get one for my kids.
Jon,

They absolutely love it. It is very sturdy. It is built like one of those bounce houses they use are carnivals. It inflates in about 2 minutes with a blower on the side that stays on while you are using the slide. Turn off the blower, it automatically deflates. The hose hooks to the side and you are good to go. We bought this one over others because it has dual lanes to slide down. I have (2) kids, so that works out perfectly. Even adults can use it without any issues.

The only part I do not like about it is putting it away. You need to be sure it is dry before rolling it up or it will get moldy. It also has some good weight to it -- probably about 60-70lbs.

We bought it at Walmart.

Jon,

They absolutely love it. It is very sturdy. It is built like one of those bounce houses they use are carnivals. It inflates in about 2 minutes with a blower on the side that stays on while you are using the slide. Turn off the blower, it automatically deflates. The hose hooks to the side and you are good to go. We bought this one over others because it has dual lanes to slide down. I have (2) kids, so that works out perfectly. Even adults can use it without any issues.

The only part I do not like about it is putting it away. You need to be sure it is dry before rolling it up or it will get moldy. It also has some good weight to it -- probably about 60-70lbs.

We bought it at Walmart.

Awesome!!! I called about 6 Walmarts and finally found one in stock and they are holding it for me and it's right on the way home from work. Great price too..... The kids will love it!!! It gets over 100 degrees where I live so this will help beat the heat. It should dry up quickly in that heat. Thanks for posting that.

Awesome!!! I called about 6 Walmarts and finally found one in stock and they are holding it for me and it's right on the way home from work. Great price too..... The kids will love it!!! It gets over 100 degrees where I live so this will help beat the heat. It should dry up quickly in that heat. Thanks for posting that.
Glad you found one. I noticed they were "out of stock" on the website. Also, the price dropped $50 since we bought it -- so that's good for you!

I've seen a similar product on the Sams Club website (they have a few of them), if that helps. Also, we've rented bounce houses for parties at our house, and the companies that rent them typically bring them to the backyard using a hand-truck or dolly.

jandawil: Where in the high desert are you located?

I've seen a similar product on the Sams Club website (they have a few of them), if that helps. Also, we've rented bounce houses for parties at our house, and the companies that rent them typically bring them to the backyard using a hand-truck or dolly.

jandawil: Where in the high desert are you located?

We live in Hesperia. The website says it weighs 70 lbs and comes in a vinyl bag. Not too bad. We have a storage shed in the back it will go in. This seems like it will be smaller than the typical bounce house. Those are huge and cost hundreds or thousands of dollars. Hey bcoombs....I'll bet it's roasting out there in Vegas by now. You should get one too :D

We live in Hesperia. The website says it weighs 70 lbs and comes in a vinyl bag. Not too bad. We have a storage shed in the back it will go in. This seems like it will be smaller than the typical bounce house. Those are huge and cost hundreds or thousands of dollars. Hey bcoombs....I'll bet it's roasting out there in Vegas by now. You should get one too :D
Unless you fold and pack parachutes for a living, you will never get it into that bag (nor the box it was shipped in). I may "try" to fold it up tight and "try" to get it in the bag at the end of the summer but I am not hopeful.

I'd try rolling it up and using bungee cords or something.

It is hot here in Vegas (mid-hundreds). The reason I asked where in the high desert is that I lived at Edwards AFB for 8 years in the late 70's, early 80's.

Hesperia? I've never heard of it before, and I've heard of it now twice in the last two days. Someone from Hesperia is selling a pair of Vandersteen 2ce Signatures that I have my eye on...

Unless you fold and pack parachutes for a living, you will never get it into that bag (nor the box it was shipped in). I may "try" to fold it up tight and "try" to get it in the bag at the end of the summer but I am not hopeful.

LOL thats always the case with those things. We have a huge tent that to this day we can't get it all back in the bag. Bungie cords will probably be the way to go. Again we only have to carry it 20' to the shed.

bcoombs - mid hundreds??? Like 150??? :confused: :D That is hot......
Hesperia is about 180 miles due south on I 15 from Vegas. We are right in the tri-valley area of Victorville, Hesperia, and Apple Valley. Our small little area has grown now to over 300,00 people in the last 10 years. It's sort of the half way point between Los Angeles and Vegas although you can get to LA from Hesperia in about 90 minutes if the planets are aligned and there is no traffic. So that would basically be Wednesdays at about 1:58 AM.

bcoombs - mid hundreds??? Like 150??? :confused: :D That is hot......


Well it feels like 150... :p

Did I say anal? Boy, that would be the pot calling the kettle black... :D

Stain Update...

I did some more test staining last night. I think I have the formula down to stain the Maple columns (get ready..):

Step 1: Lightly sand the veneer with 220 grit sandpaper and remove all dust
Step 2: Apply Shellac mixture (1 part de-waxed Shellac (http://www.zinsser.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=72), 2 parts alcohol) with a foam/bristle brush and let dry for 1 hour. This seals the grain so the stain penetrates evenly into the wood.
Step 3: Go over the wood lightly with 0000 steel wool and remove all dust
Step 4: Apply with a sponge brush a coat of stain (http://www.geminicoatings.com/products/lacquers/gemiglo_aim_stains_product.html) and let sit for 6 minutes
Step 5: Wipe off after 6 minutes with a cotton cloth (10 minutes had a darker color but created deep black lines in the grain that did not look good at all)
Step 6: Apply a second coat of stain
Step 7: Wipe off after 10 minutes with a cotton cloth
Step 8: Repeat steps 6-7 once more (3 coats of stain)
Step 9: Apply 2 or 3 coats of a water-based polyurethane sealer (using 0000 steel wool between coats). I think I may spray this on to get it perfect.

Yep -- a lot of steps but I believe the end result will be worth it. The sample I did last night looks great. Since I did 3-coats of stain, the color is a little more intense which is more to my liking.

Yup, you'll be done by Xmas.... maybe.

Bud

Yup, you'll be done by Xmas.... maybe.

Bud
LOL -- Gosh -- I hope so!! :eek: :D

Actually, once I get the last 3 grooves routed and the (2) speaker opening cut, I'll be ready to stain. I am waiting until the weekend to do these because I make too many routing mistakes if I try to do it on weekday eves. I think I'm always trying to rush and on the weekends I can take a bit more time.

Steve,

The stain took me forever and I didn't go through all the process you did. Boy, you're in for a lot of fun.

Bud

Steve,

The stain took me forever and I didn't go through all the process you did. Boy, you're in for a lot of fun.

Bud
You got that right. I don't know what I gotten myself into. Oh well, into the fire I go :)

BTW -- I still need to do all the base boards, casing around the doors, crown and the rear diffusor. I'm thinking if I don't kill myself in the process, completion may fall around Q1 '08 :rolleyes:

It is hot here in Vegas (mid-hundreds).
You're so lucky. Just ask the guys/gals in Iraq (http://www.qwikcast.com/cgi-bin/forecast.cgi?zip=An%20Nasiriyah,IQ).

Wow Steve, that's some kind of testing you had to do to come up with detailed instructions to that degree... Good luck!

You're so lucky. Just ask the guys/gals in Iraq (http://www.qwikcast.com/cgi-bin/forecast.cgi?zip=An%20Nasiriyah,IQ).
I think this quote from Biloxi Blues (http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0094746/) with Matthew Broderick sums it up over there:

"Man it's hot. It's like Africa hot. Tarzan couldn't take this kind of hot."

You're so lucky. Just ask the guys/gals in Iraq.

DAMN!! Ok, question, can you really tell much difference once you enter triple digits? I mean really, how much worse can 120 feel than 105! The worst part as I see it was the 90 degree LOW. My gosh, it isn't even close to that in Chi-town today and everyone thinks they're melting.

There's a huge difference between 100s and 120s. Similar to 80s vs 100s (go figure). The biggest difference is that wind feels like a blow dryer/HVAC/blow torch full force (15-30mph winds are the norm since it's so flat), whereas <105 or so, wind feels like a relatively "cool breeze". 90 degrees in the morning feels cool; no joke. Think about going in your attic in the summer, and turning on your attic fan and standing in front of it. Fortunately, nearly everyone has A/C by now... it's the walking back and forth (usually about a mile each way depending where you are) that sucks. July and August are the hottest months.

Sorry for the hijack, Steve.

Sorry for the hijack, Steve.
Hijack away -- that's what this is all about :)

nice progress Steve....I enjoy catching up on this thread.

Since we're hijacking, I just returned from Edwards AFB, my son graduated from test pilot school. It was cooler at Edwards in the Mojave then it was when I left Dallas. Dallas was in the low 100's with relatively high humidity and Edwards was in the mid 90's with almost no humidity. I was told it was unusually cool while I was there. :)

Back on thread, that's way too much testing. We just primed with stain precoat to prevent too much stain absorption and then stained away, three coats. We were using pine so that may make a difference.

Since we're hijacking, I just returned from Edwards AFB, my son graduated from test pilot school. It was cooler at Edwards in the Mojave then it was when I left Dallas. Dallas was in the low 100's with relatively high humidity and Edwards was in the mid 90's with almost no humidity. I was told it was unusually cool while I was there. :)

To further hijack...
My dad taught at the TPS in the early '80s. I have some very fond memories of that place, like watching them test the Space Shuttle before it was launched, and watching the first landings on the dry lake bed. Ahhh, good times, good times...

Steve, if my memory serves me correctly, when you were talking about the ceiling paint, you were going to use an eggshell, which has a slight sheen to it. Were there any concerns about light reflection off of the ceiling? I think you said that you switched to flat since then, so no concern anymore, I'm sure.

Back on thread, that's way too much testing. We just primed with stain precoat to prevent too much stain absorption and then stained away, three coats. We were using pine so that may make a difference.
I just wanted to be sure I had it down before I messed up a column that I spend x hours building, sanding and veneering. Based on everything I've read, Maple is difficult to get right. Because I'd never stained maple before, I had to learn by doing. I made a few mistakes along the way and was happy they were on scraps vs. the real thing.

Steve, if my memory serves me correctly, when you were talking about the ceiling paint, you were going to use an eggshell, which has a slight sheen to it. Were there any concerns about light reflection off of the ceiling? I think you said that you switched to flat since then, so no concern anymore, I'm sure.
Yes, and that was the reason I picked eggshell over a satin. My wife really did not want a FLAT paint if possible and that was our compromise. However, in the end, we ended up going flat because we could not get the eggshell to look right (with that crappy Lowes American Traditions paint). Don't get me started on that one. Oh well -- lesson learned :)

Yes, and that was the reason I picked eggshell over a satin. My wife really did not want a FLAT paint if possible and that was our compromise.

At least you didn't have to get on your knees and beg the Mrs. to let you paint it black. That took some groveling on my part, but in the end she even liked how it turned out. I think your paint turned out excellent. Can't wait to see it all come together. BTW.....the kids LOVED their new waterslide!!! That thing is a beast. Lots of fun though. Thanks for the heads up on that one.

At least you didn't have to get on your knees and beg the Mrs. to let you paint it black. That took some groveling on my part, but in the end she even liked how it turned out. I think your paint turned out excellent. Can't wait to see it all come together. BTW.....the kids LOVED their new waterslide!!! That thing is a beast. Lots of fun though. Thanks for the heads up on that one.
I need to thank ebr for the ceiling color. I showed her a pic of his ceiling and she loved it.

And glad your kids like the slide. Yep, it is heavy and huge. One tip my wife read on the Internet... buy a small indoor/outdoor carpet to put on the lawn at the slide exit. It keeps the grass from turning into a mud pit. Just be sure to tuck about 50% of it under the slide so it won't slip away. HD has them for like $15.

I need to thank ebr for the ceiling color. I showed her a pic of his ceiling and she loved it.

And glad your kids like the slide. Yep, it is heavy and huge. One tip my wife read on the Internet... buy a small indoor/outdoor carpet to put on the lawn at the slide exit. It keeps the grass from turning into a mud pit. Just be sure to tuck about 50% of it under the slide so it won't slip away. HD has them for like $15.

That's a great idea...will do.

I just wanted to be sure I had it down before I messed up a column that I spend x hours building, sanding and veneering. Based on everything I've read, Maple is difficult to get right. Because I'd never stained maple before, I had to learn by doing. I made a few mistakes along the way and was happy they were on scraps vs. the real thing.

I know what you mean about messing up the columns. Originally I was going to flute the front of my columns. After ruining one and determining that my router skills weren't up to the task I decided not to flute. They still look good but I would have perfered the flutted look. However, that wood gets expensive fast and because the columns are wider then the board lengths you can buy, they also had to be joined. I don't have a joiner so that was also farmed out, I think it was $200 for the 4 panels I needed. In your case, time = money.

I know what you mean about messing up the columns. Originally I was going to flute the front of my columns. After ruining one and determining that my router skills weren't up to the task I decided not to flute. They still look good but I would have perfered the flutted look. However, that wood gets expensive fast and because the columns are wider then the board lengths you can buy, they also had to be joined. I don't have a joiner so that was also farmed out, I think it was $200 for the 4 panels I needed. In your case, time = money.
You have it exactly right. My time is worth something but I do have the expense of the MDF and veneer. It's not a ton of cash invested but that coupled with the time I've (and yldesyde/David) put into those columns does seem to have a "perceived" higher value.

Wow - fluting the columns would have been VERY cool. Seems like with a simple jig, you could have done those grooves. However, I've never done them myself, so I may be way off.

BTW-- Can you share any pics of your HT. I'd love to see another local guy's room :) I did not see a construction thread for yours.

Guess I am a little late on this but....

HUGE DIFFERENCE between 105 and 120....im currently in Iraq and yesterday was 112...and we arent even to mid August yet...thats when it gets hot!

I was in Baghdad last August and it averaged 135 or so for about 6 weeks straight...the hairdryer refference is just about spot on too. Ok enough highjacking for now :D

BTW...Lookin great so far, love the wood work....keep up the good work and I know I am looking forward to more pics as im sure everyone else is too.

Robert

You have it exactly right. My time is worth something but I do have the expense of the MDF and veneer. It's not a ton of cash invested but that coupled with the time I've (and yldesyde/David) put into those columns does seem to have a "perceived" higher value.

Wow - fluting the columns would have been VERY cool. Seems like with a simple jig, you could have done those grooves. However, I've never done them myself, so I may be way off.

BTW-- Can you share any pics of your HT. I'd love to see another local guy's room :) I did not see a construction thread for yours.

Didn't mean to infer you had no cost involved, just that you had more time invested in constructing the columns then I did. Don't get me wrong, I had plenty of time building the columns especially cutting 45's for the corner joins as recommended by a trim carpenter.

I didn't have a construction thread, I was too busy constructing :) Now I'm busy watching movies but I'll try to get some up in another thread so as not to hijack this one. Hopefully I'll get some up this weekend. You're also very welcome to stop by and see the theater, I'm not far from you at all.

Guess I am a little late on this but....

HUGE DIFFERENCE between 105 and 120....im currently in Iraq and yesterday was 112...and we arent even to mid August yet...thats when it gets hot!

I was in Baghdad last August and it averaged 135 or so for about 6 weeks straight...the hairdryer refference is just about spot on too. Ok enough highjacking for now :D

BTW...Lookin great so far, love the wood work....keep up the good work and I know I am looking forward to more pics as im sure everyone else is too.

Robert

Are you in the military? If so, don't forget how much we appreciate what you guys (and gals) are doing there, which allows us back home to be so spoiled. If you aren't in the military, what in the heck are you doing over there?!?

We're supposed to have a high of 111 +/- this Saturday and Sunday, so we're getting there. 135?!? That worse than Death Valley!

Oh, and I don't call it the blow dryer effect. I prefer Opening the Oven Door... ;)

Sorry, Steve. I couldn't resist another hijack. :o

Steve, et al: Is it against the rules to discuss your anticipated budgets for your projects? I don't remember seeing anyone posting this in their construction threads, and I'm curious as to what it will end up costing when all is said and done. It seems that many of you have done significant planning, so I'm sure you have a pretty good idea what the total costs will be (at least a ballpark).

Steve, et al: Is it against the rules to discuss your anticipated budgets for your projects? I don't remember seeing anyone posting this in their construction threads, and I'm curious as to what it will end up costing when all is said and done. It seems that many of you have done significant planning, so I'm sure you have a pretty good idea what the total costs will be (at least a ballpark).

I don't think it's against the forum rules. I think most people are pretty touchy when it comes to costs. I truly think that they're affraid they will find out the paid too much or be ridiculed for not having spent enough. I know it's all relative and how much is DYI vs contracted.

I don't think it's against the forum rules. I think most people are pretty touchy when it comes to costs. I truly think that they're affraid they will find out the paid too much or be ridiculed for not having spent enough. I know it's all relative and how much is DYI vs contracted.

I could see that. But since everyone's project is different (some VERY different), it seems like it would be hard to compare apples to apples anyway. Not a big deal, though. Just curious, and trying to get a better handle on things for early discussion with the wife.

BTW-- Can you share any pics of your HT. I'd love to see another local guy's room :) I did not see a construction thread for yours.


Steve, I started the thread, only have pre constructions pics up now but I'll get construction / finish pics this weekend hopefully.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=691579

Bcoombs - SandmanX kept a running total of costs in his thread for a while. I think the "$12,000 thread" had cost info. There are a few others, including a few detailed budget threads kicking around.

Bcoombs - SandmanX kept a running total of costs in his thread for a while. I think the "$12,000 thread" had cost info. There are a few others, including a few detailed budget threads kicking around.

Thanks. I'll check them out.

Staining Update…

I’m a bit tired and want to go to bed but figured I could give you guys some quick eye candy :D

I took the day off form work today to work on the columns. I had a few more grooves to route and some light sanding before could get to the staining. That took me until a little after lunch. Anyway – onto the good stuff.

I followed the steps that I posted in POST #539 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7870726&&#post7870726)

Here is the RAW column
BTW – this is (1) of (2) rear surround columns. The routed square in on the top portion of the column is for a future speaker cutout. I’ll have more on that later
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Staining-ColRaw.jpg


Here is the stain applied to the column (top 2 sections) which it had to sit for 6 minutes
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Stain-Applied.jpg

Here is the column completed after wiping off the stain. 2 more coats to go - plan to do that tomorrow.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/stain-wiped1coat.jpg
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Stain-Wiped1CoatCloseUp.JPG

Chemicals I used today:
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Staining-Chems.JPG

Once they are all stained, I plan to spray clear coat on all of them.

[QUOTE=bcoombs]Are you in the military? If so, don't forget how much we appreciate what you guys (and gals) are doing there, which allows us back home to be so spoiled. If you aren't in the military, what in the heck are you doing over there?!?

We're supposed to have a high of 111 +/- this Saturday and Sunday, so we're getting there. 135?!? That worse than Death Valley!

Oh, and I don't call it the blow dryer effect. I prefer Opening the Oven Door... ;)



Im a civilian contractor...and I guess I am over here because I am a glutton for punnishment :D But thanks for your concern and praise and I will pass it along to those that really deserve it...like you said....the Military guys and gals!!!

Wow that wood work is looking great!!!!

Robert

Steve,

The columns are going to look great. I really enjoy watching the progress. I want to thank you for the info you sent me. It help me keep my sanity while I'm so far away. Looking forward to watching your progress.

Bob

HUGE DIFFERENCE between 105 and 120....im currently in Iraq and yesterday was 112...and we arent even to mid August yet...thats when it gets hot!

I was in Baghdad last August and it averaged 135 or so for about 6 weeks straight...the hairdryer refference is just about spot on too. Ok enough highjacking for now :D
I'm guessing you're in the north, which is much cooler than southern Iraq & Kuwait.


Steve, I'm surprised by the completely different look of that stain when wet vs dry. That must be why you had to experiment with it so much. It looks so deep red during that 6 minute wait, and the "after" much more tan/brown.

Here is a quick pic of the (2) rear surround columns (no clear coat on them yet) -- this is just the raw stain. I plan on staining 2 more tomorrow (right surrounds).

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Staining-RearSurr1.JPG

Had another "family day" today so did not get much done.

Tomorrow - we're off to go see CARS at the theater. I've heard it is pretty good and that the kids love it.

I took my kids (almost 3 and 9 months) to see cars today. It was their first movie seen in a theater. The 3 year old got antsy toward the end as the movie and previews are 2 hours 15 minutes - but he loved it. The wife and I liked the movie as well.

enjoy!

Gary

Gary,

I'm trying to respond to your PM. Please empty your PM boxes to make room for more. Thanks:)!!!

Nice theaters guys:D

Sorry, Steve. I couldn't resist another hijack. :o
Hijack all you want. It's nice to see people are actually interested in things other than HT :rolleyes: :D

Steve, et al: Is it against the rules to discuss your anticipated budgets for your projects? I don't remember seeing anyone posting this in their construction threads, and I'm curious as to what it will end up costing when all is said and done. It seems that many of you have done significant planning, so I'm sure you have a pretty good idea what the total costs will be (at least a ballpark).
Actually, I have a folder that holds all the receipts for the build. I have not spent much so far since equipment has not been purchased yet. Here's a quick summary (based on memory):

MDF/Plywood/lumber: $225
Veneer (and supplies associated with that): $250
Paint and Texture (done professionally): $750
Electrical (inc. Insteon switches and prof. terminating 3 new circuits at my breaker box): $700
GOM Fabric: $500
Insulation: $150

So, about $2,600 spent so far.

Really, the expensive stuff still needs to be purchased -- Speakers, Sub, Pre/Pro, Amp, Projector, star ceiling, can lights, crown molding and base molding. Seating has already been purchased. I tend to buy in a JIT method.

The next purchase on the list is the crown and base molding. Luckily, I'm buying some simple 1x4 (crown and casing) and 1x6 (base) solid maple. I need about 175LF which comes to about $350-$400. I'm doing some custom wood work with the stock (are you surprised ;)).

Actually, I have a folder that holds all the receipts for the build.
A folder??!?!? Man, I've got a shoe box and its overflowing!

Got your email, will respond shortly.

Bud

Didn't mean to infer you had no cost involved, just that you had more time invested in constructing the columns then I did. Don't get me wrong, I had plenty of time building the columns especially cutting 45's for the corner joins as recommended by a trim carpenter.
I did not take it that way at all.

I didn't have a construction thread, I was too busy constructing :) Now I'm busy watching movies but I'll try to get some up in another thread so as not to hijack this one. Hopefully I'll get some up this weekend. You're also very welcome to stop by and see the theater, I'm not far from you at all.
I checked out your thread. You did some nice work on the room!!

I don't think it's against the forum rules. I think most people are pretty touchy when it comes to costs. I truly think that they're affraid they will find out the paid too much or be ridiculed for not having spent enough. I know it's all relative and how much is DYI vs contracted.
You are SO right. I'm scared to know how much I finally spend on the room. If I spent $12k on the room, that's about 340 movies for (4) with popcorn and drinks. Hmm.. at 1 movie every weekend, it would take me nearly 7 years to break even :eek: Oh well, you can't look at it that way. The nice part is the video and audio experience in my room should be at least 300% better than any commercial theater. And.. no sticky floors, crying babies or long lines:D

NOW -- if they could start releasing 1st run movies at the same time they hit the theater - that would be great. I've heard that there is some movie coming out (cannot remember which one) that is actually doing that.

I get the impression that the industry is moving toward releasing content for purchase at the same time as theater releases, as their market is shifting that way anyway. Look how long it takes for a movie to get to DVD now. 6 months? If the movie sucked in the theater, often it's much faster.

Interesting perspective on the cost. However, you also get resale value. Your point about the quality of the experience is huge. I hate the experience of the theater... basically a bunch of other people of various rudeness levels, sticky floors as you mentioned, and just having to get my lazy butt out of the house to the theater.

Oh, and by far the most important to me is... choosing the time and movie that you want to play, whenever you want, and stopping it in the middle if you feel like it... It's almost like you own the movie theater. Oh wait... you do.

Interesting perspective on the cost. However, you also get resale value. Your point about the quality of the experience is huge. I hate the experience of the theater... basically a bunch of other people of various rudeness levels, sticky floors as you mentioned, and just having to get my lazy butt out of the house to the theater.

Oh, and by far the most important to me is... choosing the time and movie that you want to play, whenever you want, and stopping it in the middle if you feel like it... It's almost like you own the movie theater. Oh wait... you do.

Also...I had some friends over last night for a movie (Batman Begins) and 3 minutes into it one of them said "This is awesome!! I think I just wet myself"
Than half way through the movie my wife came in with a plate of freshly baked chocolate chip cookies and a jug of milk for us. You can't put a price tag on that!! It's the only way to watch a movie now.

Steve, I'm surprised by the completely different look of that stain when wet vs dry. That must be why you had to experiment with it so much. It looks so deep red during that 6 minute wait, and the "after" much more tan/brown.
Tim,

Actually, it's not that it's dried but rather that the stain has been wiped off with a cloth.

I'm glad you guys like the columns. The (2) that I've done so far are not perfect but they are the least noticeable ones (and the reason I did them first). I plan to put the 1st coat of stain on (2) more tonight. I'd do more but only have "parking" to do (2) at a time. However, I'll post as the columns get done. Hopefully by weekend, I can start applying the clearcoat.

Oh, and by far the most important to me is... choosing the time and movie that you want to play, whenever you want, and stopping it in the middle if you feel like it... It's almost like you own the movie theater. Oh wait... you do.
Yes -- definitely. Since we have young kids, we typically won't start our movie until they are in bed. Flexibility is KEY!


Also...I had some friends over last night for a movie (Batman Begins) and 3 minutes into it one of them said "This is awesome!! I think I just wet myself"
Than half way through the movie my wife came in with a plate of freshly baked chocolate chip cookies and a jug of milk for us. You can't put a price tag on that!! It's the only way to watch a movie now.

I had to LOL on the "wet myself" line!! But, yes the comforts of home while watching a movie are priceless. If you think about the $, no one would ever build one. I just enjoy the concept of having a dedicated room to watch movies, sporting events and listen to NPR in simulated 5.1 audio (just kidding -- that's just in the car).

Tim mentioned about resale. I know the house will have more WOW and memorable factor in a house showing. However, I'm not sure how much it will add to the value of the home. I compare it to a pool. You spend $40k on a pool but only figure you'll get about 50% back on the resale. I'm fine with that since the value of my HT "hopefully" will be much higher than what I spent (since I'm doing it myself). So, maybe I'll make money on this room after all :rolleyes:

There are whole threads discussing resale of houses with HTs. I'm sure you're read some of them. Anyway, it definitely sets it apart -- the key from what I've heard is to be clear on what equipment/furnishings stay and which do not, to avoid confusion and frustration later.

Interesting perspective on the cost. However, you also get resale value. Your point about the quality of the experience is huge. I hate the experience of the theater... basically a bunch of other people of various rudeness levels, sticky floors as you mentioned, and just having to get my lazy butt out of the house to the theater.

Oh, and by far the most important to me is... choosing the time and movie that you want to play, whenever you want, and stopping it in the middle if you feel like it... It's almost like you own the movie theater. Oh wait... you do.

Good points. Things I dislike:

- Going to a NEW movie theater, and hearing blown subwoofers.

- People talking during the movie. Oh wait. This happens at home, too. ;)

My wife also doesn't let me crank up the volume during a movie, but LOVES going out to see a movie. The theater's volume is usually twice what I'm allowed... :mad:

Steve! I've been following this thread and must say you've been very thorough! I am so jealous of all that space you have to work with! Keep it up! :D

Nobbie

I took my kids (almost 3 and 9 months) to see cars today. It was their first movie seen in a theater. The 3 year old got antsy toward the end as the movie and previews are 2 hours 15 minutes - but he loved it. The wife and I liked the movie as well.

enjoy!

Gary
Gary,

You weren't kidding about the previews. I think I counted about 7 of them + the short movie before the main attraction. Both my 4 and 6 year old were ready to go about 10 minutes before the movie was over. IMO, too many previews before the flick!

We saw it in DLP theater. All I can say is WOW! The image was crystal clear, bright and beautiful. The graphics in the movie were extremely realistic (definitely the best Pixar has ever done). The surrounds were used well especially in the driving scenes. I liked the storyline because it reminded me of one of my favorite "watch on a lazy Sunday afternoon" movies - Doc Hollywood (http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0101745/) with Michael J. Fox. Yea, it's a chick flick but a good wholesome comedy for the entire family. The only part you have to watch out for is the short nude scene at the beginning of the movie with Julie Warner (http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0000689/). And, no this is NOT a link to those pics ;)

Steve! I've been following this thread and must say you've been very thorough! I am so jealous of all that space you have to work with! Keep it up! :D

Nobbie
Thanks. I guess in La La Land, space is limited?? :D

Thanks. I guess in La La Land, space is limited?? :D


Well, when everyone and their mother is fleeing Texas for Sunny Southern California, space is at a premium! ;)

I added some pics to my gallery here. Here's a shot of a media stand I designed and had built. Not as involved as your project, no way! But it'll do me for now until I can find the space for a dedicated HT!

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/503/3144stand34.jpg

Well, when everyone and their mother is fleeing Texas for Sunny Southern California, space is at a premium! ;)

I added some pics to my gallery here. Here's a shot of a media stand I designed and had built. Not as involved as your project, no way! But it'll do me for now until I can find the space for a dedicated HT!

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/503/3144stand34.jpg
That's not too shabby!! That cabinet fits your decor perfectly. Is that a 60" Plasma? Those speakers look like Onix Rockets. The center channel also looks like a Onix Bigfoot.

I do understand about the $$/ft in CA vs. Texas. One of the guys I work with lives in Mountain View (just outside Palo Alto) and he spent some $ on his house. You guys definitely have better weather, though.

Steve,

Yes, those are Onix speakers. I love 'em! :D The wood is pre-stained chocolate brown europly bought from a local wood store for $98 per 4' x '8' sheet. It took two sheets to build the stand. I designed it to accomodate the wiiiiide Bigfoot and allow for to short components side-by-side at the bottom.

Here's a shot of the Bigfoot (RSC200) with the grill off and the Rocket Signature 550 MKII with a Rocket ELT LRS upside on top for fun!

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/503/3144BigfootHome.jpg

This in my makeshift stand made from two Ikea Lack tables with casters and an old headboard from my friend's bed across the top!

The TV is an HP MD6580n 65" DLP unit that rocks!

Nobbie,

Those do look like some beefy speakers. I checked out that DLP TV and it's priced really well given it's size.

I do understand about the $$/ft in CA vs. Texas. One of the guys I work with lives in Mountain View (just outside Palo Alto) and he spent some $ on his house. You guys definitely have better weather, though.

I don't mean to contribute in the off topic converstation in the middle of this thread, but Mountain View is no slouch in home prices, although Atherton is the most expensive area in all of central California at least (don't know about Southern as I am not from that area). I moved from my 1200sq ft condo in south Fremont (other side of the bay from Mountain View) into my 3100 sq ft home in Manteca (California's Central Valley). The condo actually sold for more than the cost of the house with all the options, so we were able to then get a nice pool as well. Nice when you go from an expensive area to a much more affordable area! :D

BTW, we have some friends who just left Fremont (1400 sq ft home on a really small lot) who bought a home in DFW area for $260k that is 2800sq ft on a large lot, with a big back yard, beautiful home. Their home in Fremont is not sold yet, but is listed around $700k Crazy.

I moved from my 1200sq ft condo in south Fremont (other side of the bay from Mountain View) into my 3100 sq ft home in Manteca (California's Central Valley). The condo actually sold for more than the cost of the house with all the options, so we were able to then get a nice pool as well. Nice when you go from an expensive area to a much more affordable area!

BTW, we have some friends who just left Fremont (1400 sq ft home on a really small lot) who bought a home in DFW area for $260k that is 2800sq ft on a large lot, with a big back yard, beautiful home. Their home in Fremont is not sold yet, but is listed around $700k Crazy.
Scott,

That's what it is all about in CA -- Resale. Everything appreciates really well given you live in the right area. In the DFW area, it works the same way (maybe not at the same rate in all areas, though).

Sounds like you scored quite a bit on the move. No pool for me at home but possibly in the future.

BTW -- Now this is REALLY off topic but... What's the story on the Scott/Steve name thing? Just curious. I've seen your picture and you don't look anything like me ;)

Nobbie,

Those do look like some beefy speakers. I checked out that DLP TV and it's priced really well given it's size.


Steve,

Yep, it's a great TV. I just wish it came with a more common remote code. I can't get any other remote to work with it!

Scott,

BTW -- Now this is REALLY off topic but... What's the story on the Scott/Steve name thing? Just curious. I've seen your picture and you don't look anything like me ;)

I don't know what it is, but with my registered name on here being SVonhof, I have had so many people respond to postings calling me "Steve" that I just had to put that on there. I don't know why people assume or whatever. Not a real big deal though. Isn't there a saying that goes something like this: "You can call me whatever you want as long as you don't call me late for dinner?" :D

Steve,

Yep, it's a great TV. I just wish it came with a more common remote code. I can't get any other remote to work with it!
If your remote is a "programmable" remote, there are Pronto codes you can load (including some nice discreets). Even if you don't have a pronto "branded" remote, a lot of the other remote software packages can import/convert pronto codes.

Pronto Codes (http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/files/rcfiles.cgi?area=pronto&db=devices&br=hp&dv=television&md=md6580n&kw=&st=&ar=&dt=&so=&pg=1&file=ccf_templates/televisions/hp-tv-md6580n.zip)

If you happen to have a normal "learning" remote that came with your equipment, you might have to invest in a programmable model (i.e. Harmony, Universal Remote Control, Pronto, etc). The price on these has come down quite a bit. IMO, well worth the investment. The Harmony (http://www.logitech.com/index.cfm/products/productlistharmony/US/EN,CRID=2080) remotes seems like the best bang for the buck these days. If you search (http://www.shopzilla.com/) the Internet, you can find some nice pricing (http://www.pricegrabber.com/) on these.

I don't know what it is, but with my registered name on here being SVonhof, I have had so many people respond to postings calling me "Steve" that I just had to put that on there. I don't know why people assume or whatever. Not a real big deal though. Isn't there a saying that goes something like this: "You can call me whatever you want as long as you don't call me late for dinner?" :D
Thanks Scott.

BTW -- nice job on your DIY speakers. I am looking to go that direction myself.

BTW -- nice job on your DIY speakers. I am looking to go that direction myself.

Have you seen the rather large and unreasonable DIY speaker thread?

Very High Quality DIY speakers anywhere? (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=170942)

Have you seen the rather large and unreasonable DIY speaker thread?

Very High Quality DIY speakers anywhere? (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=170942)
Scott,

I had not seen that one. I've been following a few over at HTGuide (http://www.htguide.com/forum/forumdisplay.php4?f=6). I think DIY will be fun and very rewarding. I'll be sure to let everyone know what I finally decide to do.

Star Ceiling Options

Hey guys, I need your vote again for the Star Ceiling design. I have a few options and not sure which one I like best. I plan to use these light trims.

If the light is on the wood - Satin Finish (to match the metal inlays in the columns). If the light is on the black GOM - Black Finish (to blend in with the fabric)

http://www.usalight.com/lighting/rex/4linetrims/images/B461SN.jpg .. http://www.usalight.com/lighting/rex/4linetrims/images/B461BK.jpg


Some of the lights will flood onto the walls and others will shine down to the seating (all on separate zones of course).
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Lighting.jpg


The size of coffered star ceiling is roughly 10’ wide x 8’ tall. The width of the “boards” in options #1, #2 and #3 are 9” to accommodate a 4” 110volt light, 3/4" MDF, can, etc. If I can make them more narrow, I will.

As you can see from the “side view” at the bottom, this ceiling will float about 3” down from the “real” ceiling. This is for acoustical purposes as the area above the stars will be used for sound absorption (bpapes idea).
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Star Ceiling 1.jpg


Also, the place I plan to buy my fiber optic material is HERE (http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Endglow.htm) . They just came out with a multi-size mix of fibers in a single cable. I think this will be very nice to add to the realism effect of the ceiling. It has (32) .75mm, (10) .5mm & (6) 1.5mm fibers. Since I planned to do a Northern Winter Sky (which has the Orion constellation -- one of my favorites), this will work out rather well.

http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Egpack48a.jpg

BTW -- I think I like options #2 and #3 the best

My vote is for option 2... I prefer a nice open sky and last time I checked the sky doesn't have a 9" board running through it. :)

2 - 3 - 1 - 4 in order of preference.

Nelson

I'd say that 1 & 2 are a toss up for me, then 3, with 4 coming in last. I think this is a great idea, especially with the integrated lights (and I may steal this for my ceiling when I start later this year :) ).

If you don't mind sharing some details, how are you going to run the fiber optics up to the panels? And what does the construction of the frame look like?

Tom

I'll put it in a vote for Option 2. Nice and open view.

Option 2 for me also

Option 2.

Awesome idea!

I'd say that 1 & 2 are a toss up for me, then 3, with 4 coming in last. I think this is a great idea, especially with the integrated lights (and I may steal this for my ceiling when I start later this year :) ).

If you don't mind sharing some details, how are you going to run the fiber optics up to the panels? And what does the construction of the frame look like?

Tom
Tom,

I'll probably steal SandmanX's design for applying the stars. You can see his how-to guide HERE (http://www.smxscreen.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26).

As far as the frame construction, I'll still working out the details. I was originally planning to hang it form the rafters above the drywall with 3/8" threaded steel rod but am also considering attaching 2x4s to the ceiling for a more traditional application. Either way, I will have black GOM around the parameter that covers up the 3" drop, hiding everything behind the cloth.

I will post my design once I get that worked out.

my vote is 1-3-2-4, I don't like the lights in the black, I like the look of them in the wood. Also, the extra wood makes it look like you are looking up through a window.

Steve - thanks for the info. I had seen Sandman's thread but wasn't quite as far along in my thought process as I am now. Makes more sense now though.

I also echo Michael's sentiment on the lights (prefer the silver in the wood) and the view of the stars as if looking through a skylight of sorts.

Tom

Steve,

I like Option 2, but don't like the lights in the "floating" black space. How about moving the two lights (blue in your planning picture) out to the perimeter rails?

Relooking at this #1 may be better choice. This way each panel will be less that 5'x4' and you could design it a bit like a suspending ceiling with star panels like a ceiling panel.

my vote is 1-3-2-4,

Same here.

Steve,

I like Option 2, but don't like the lights in the "floating" black space. How about moving the two lights (blue in your planning picture) out to the perimeter rails?
Are you talking about something like #5?
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Star Ceiling 2.jpg

AS far as #1, that was my original design from the beginning. And the idea of looking through a segmented skylight was the concept. It does make the panels a little easier to build too. However, I'm sort of liking the "open" look in option #5 with the lights moved to the sides. I think I can still get plenty of light to the seating area (as it will be dimmed just about all the time anyway).

Does this change anyones mind?

BTW -- I had the quick conference call with the wife a few minutes ago and she likes #2/#5 the best. Here concern was since the wood is 9" wide, it would be too overpowering. I like #2/#5 since it is less work for me :D

Yes, the look of 5 is better - problem is getter a single sheet that's 10'x5'. I'm in a similar position where I'm going to be doing an oval star ceiling but limited to the size of sheet material in HD/Lowes of 8'x4' - unless a lumber yard can get larger sheets but not looked into it yet.

Steve,

We are talking about a ceiling that is supposed to simulate the night sky as much as possible. Unless you live under a bridge, I don't remember large planks of wood running across my night sky...

I guess that's why I like #5.

Do you need to keep the new light locations in #5 midway between the center and back lights? What if you moved the lights that illuminate the seating area in FRONT of the seats (closer to the middle/red lights, or midway on other siderail). Then there is less likelihood that the seat backs (or your head) would cast a shadow on anything you might be trying to see (i.e. remote, TV guide, DVD case, etc.). If you choose midway of other siderail, are the lights too washed out at the seating area (may need a light with a more narrow beam)? Just a few thoughts.

If you go with #5 I would do 1 of 2 things. Either add another set of lights on the length or space out the lights on the lengths, something like what I've attached... What about just having the lights at the midpoints on the sides(top and bottom in your picture)?

Nelson

How about #6

http://users.adelphia.net/~abiandjordan/ht/Swithey6.jpg

I like #6.

5 is better now. But if you really could option 6 above is way better.

Yes, the look of 5 is better - problem is getter a single sheet that's 10'x5'. I'm in a similar position where I'm going to be doing an oval star ceiling but limited to the size of sheet material in HD/Lowes of 8'x4' - unless a lumber yard can get larger sheets but not looked into it yet.
Since it will be covered with black GOM, having to use (2+) pieces to make the length/width is not a problem. I will, however, have a GOM seam somewhere since the material is only 54" wide (but I think I can work with that). However, I understand your concerns (and that is one of the reasons I was considering options #1 and #3).

How about #6

http://users.adelphia.net/~abiandjordan/ht/Swithey6.jpg
That does look good. The reason I have those "square" pieces is the span is over 8' long.. which would show a visible seam in the wood. The square piece was my "cheat" to hide the seam.

Now, I could keep the square piece in the middle and put a light on either side of it (just like in your drawing). BUT, this raises another issue. If you look at my lighting diagram (in my earlier post today), the light needs to shine on the wall between the columns. This will push the light way off center and I was concerned about how the light would look.

Now, how about options #7, #8 and #9. O7 and O8 still have the wall lighting issue but #9 does not. I just don't know if this is too busy.

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Star Ceiling 3.jpg

I like option 6 the best so far. I am in a similar situation but I am not using wood to frame it out. Mine will be more like Sandman's. I am planning on using six panels. Your source for the fiber is the same one I am using. I don't think the seams will be as bad as you think. At least not with the lights off ;)

Drew

If you really need to have a join the my vote is #7 but I prefer #6 if you can get longer lengths of lumber.

8, 7, 6 is the order of my new vote.

Any of the above are winners.

Dude, I wish I had photoshop here at work. I would modify one to explain what I am about to go on and on about. I would say to keep the lights out of the starfeild area, like others have already said. I would also say to keep them off the lower surface of the tray, and instead, have the wood angle back to the ceiling(side view), and put the cans in there. I would also narrow down the tray edges, since the cans are now going to be on the angled surfaces. Understand? If not, I can make a modification to your image when I get home this afternoon.

for those, 7 is the best, more than that and it starts to look too busy.

I like #7 and I think I like Scott's idea on keeping the lights off the lower surface (although I'd like to see his Photoshop mock-up).

Brings up an interesting question in my mind. Is there any issue with sinking the recessed lights into the wood frames like that, or will an IC rated unit be ok (given that would is combustible)?

I'd go for #6, with possibly symmetry on the left and right (2 or 3 lights, same on each side).

With absorption material above the screen and your mention of GoM, are you also going to mount the fiber to fiberboard like Ruben? If so, how will the absorption material do anything, if it's behind a non-AT material? Is it the cushion that it gives the panels? Even so, they'd need to be mounted to the ceiling (not the acoustic material itself). I'm curious how much of a difference that would really make. I like the concept very much, but I'm not sure how you can get away with installing it on something that's AT yet rigid.

Dude, I wish I had photoshop here at work. I would modify one to explain what I am about to go on and on about. I would say to keep the lights out of the starfeild area, like others have already said. I would also say to keep them off the lower surface of the tray, and instead, have the wood angle back to the ceiling(side view), and put the cans in there. I would also narrow down the tray edges, since the cans are now going to be on the angled surfaces. Understand? If not, I can make a modification to your image when I get home this afternoon.
Scott,

Are you talking about something like this?

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Star Ceiling 4.jpg

I like #7 and I think I like Scott's idea on keeping the lights off the lower surface (although I'd like to see his Photoshop mock-up).

Brings up an interesting question in my mind. Is there any issue with sinking the recessed lights into the wood frames like that, or will an IC rated unit be ok (given that would is combustible)?
As far as I know, any standard light will work since the can will not be touching any insulation. And, it will be open to the air on the top so the heat can vent. People put lights in MDF boxes/soffits all the time without issue -- so I'll assume it is not an issue.

Here is the design I'm thinking about using. Note the ORANGE circle is the rope lighting (lighting will be a clear/frosted color not amber).
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Ceiling-CanDetail.jpg

Tim -- Absorbtion will happen in two ways based on my current design. Since the star ceiling is floating 3" from the ceiling, sound will enter in from the edges, bounce around and get absorbed. As far as the face of the star ceiling, the front half (the part closest to the screen) will be using 2" OC703 covered with GOM as the base (with small strips of boards stuck to the back for bracing). This will allow 1st reflections from the speakers to be absorbed from the room. The rear part of the ceiling will be made like Rubens. Bpape is happy with that design and said it will work fine.

What this means is the star fiber will penetrate the front OC703 and the rear 1/4 masonite. Ruben said working with the OC703 was a pain in the A$$ but it is possible. His star ceiling was a combination of both styles also.

I think #6 is the way to go as well.

Robert

I'd be more inclined to move the lights away from the box towards each wall and to possbily use a different trim that would blend with the rest of the ceiling instead of matching them. That way you'd get the same effect (washing the walls or perimeter) without looking quite so busy.

Tom

There's been so many choises and options, I can't keep them straight anymore. Either way, a star ceiling will be cool!

Jerrod--> So many choices?? I guess you can't say I'm not thorough ;)

Anyway --looks like #6 is the winner (thanks BritInVA for the suggestion). I added a light on the right to balance out everything. Here it is. I'll just need to deal with a seam on each side (or make it 1' narrower). I do not think I can get veneer in anything longer than 8' :(
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Star Ceiling 6.jpg

Column Update ..

I have one more stain coat to do the the first 4 and I'm ready to apply the clear. I actually applied the stain on those columns tonight (but after the pic was taken).

The 2 on the left are the rear surround columns. The darker rectangular groove in the top section will house a custom speaker grill. I plan to cut the hole for the speaker once I decide on the one I want. Bpape wants the speaker to fit in there tight with weather stripping around it.

The next 4 are the side surrounds. On each side of the room, there will be one with a speaker and one without. The 3-sided speaker hole will be covered with another custom grill. I plan to use magnets to affix the grill so it is easily removable (I'll have more on that when I build the grills).
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Columns-NoClear.JPG


Tomorrow, yldesyde/David is coming over so we can cut the wood for the star ceiling. Hopefully this one will go a bit faster than the columns. The hard part is I have to build it in sections so I can bring it up to the room from the garage. Assembled size will be 11' x 8.5'.

Tim -- Absorbtion will happen in two ways based on my current design. Since the star ceiling is floating 3" from the ceiling, sound will enter in from the edges, bounce around and get absorbed. As far as the face of the star ceiling, the front half (the part closest to the screen) will be using 2" OC703 covered with GOM as the base (with small strips of boards stuck to the back for bracing). This will allow 1st reflections from the speakers to be absorbed from the room. The rear part of the ceiling will be made like Rubens. Bpape is happy with that design and said it will work fine.

What this means is the star fiber will penetrate the front OC703 and the rear 1/4 masonite. Ruben said working with the OC703 was a pain in the A$$ but it is possible. His star ceiling was a combination of both styles also.
Ah, that makes sense. Especially with the few braces across the back of it. The downside is it lowers the ceiling height quite a bit.. probably not an option for me until I build my own house about 8-10 yrs from now. Unfortunately, short basement ceilings are all too common (even 8' I would consider short, for use as an HT, ideally). Very nice that you have a bit more height to work with.

Edit: Now that I see your latest update on your ceiling plan with lights, that's exactly what I'm thinking! Great choice.. the only thing though is I'm curious if the front center light will be distracting/too direct. That's a tough call.

Edit: Now that I see your latest update on your ceiling plan with lights, that's exactly what I'm thinking! Great choice.. the only thing though is I'm curious if the front center light will be distracting/too direct. That's a tough call.
Yes, a valid concern. I do not see this light used much. It will mainly be a light for the "floor seating" (aka kid "beanbag" seating) -- possibly only used before the movie and for pauses during the movie.

Right now I'm working on the design for the star ceiling. The thing I'm working on now is how I plan to attatched it to the "real ceiling". I want to be sure this thing is secure and will never fall down. I'll have that worked out this morning.

BTW, my "real" ceiling is 10' tall -- so, yes, I have plenty of height to work with.

Scott,

Are you talking about something like this?

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Star Ceiling 4.jpg

Steve, or should I say Scott?! Actually, I was thinking more like this:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v612/SVonhof/StarCeiling_side.jpg

But it sounds like you already made up your mind, so no big deal. I tried to post this yesterday morning and the AVS maintenance crew was doing their thing.

Steve, or should I say Scott?! Actually, I was thinking more like this:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v612/SVonhof/StarCeiling_side.jpg

But it sounds like you already made up your mind, so no big deal. I tried to post this yesterday morning and the AVS maintenance crew was doing their thing.
Scott,

Thanks for the idea. And, yes, I've decided to go with Opt #6.

Steve - make sure you document how you do the star ceiling I'll be very interested how you accomplish a 11' x 8.5'. ..... I have an oval Star Ceiling planed and would like to be at least 10'x5" but not sure about the join - thinking I may use a biscuit joiner.

Steve - make sure you document how you do the star ceiling I'll be very interested how you accomplish a 11' x 8.5'. ..... I have an oval Star Ceiling planed and would like to be at least 10'x5" but not sure about the join - thinking I may use a biscuit joiner.

Will do. You've got some heavy planning ahead of you if you plan to make an oval one. I want to see that!! I wish we lived closer to each other as I'd like to see that come together (I'll expect LOTS of pics from your end too).

I planned to get the wood cut today but still needed to work out a few details. I did not want to rush into it until I was comfortable with the design. I do not plan to use any biscuits since I will be using plain 'ole MDF and veneering it to match the columns. I'll just use a backer piece of MDF to bond a long and short piece together -- crude but simple and effective. Once the wood glue dries, it will be as strong or stronger as a single long piece. Of course this technique will not work to well with your design since you'll have a curve to deal with.

Hey Steve, Looks like you have made some decent progress over the last few weeks. Great job on the columns.

Im very interested in your star ceiling design. I want to do a star ceiling also. I am now wondering if I should cover the whole thing like sandmanx did, or do a slightly smaller inset version like you and a few others want to do.

Let me know if you need any help on that ceiling. Im off Monday and Tuesday :D

Ronnie

Let me know if you need any help on that ceiling. Im off Monday and Tuesday :D

Ronnie
Thanks for the offer. We're actually out on a mini-vacation Monday-Tuesday. But, I may take you up on it at a later date :D. I think putting this thing up maybe a multi-person job.

However, I'm spraying the columns now with clear-coat. Talk about EASY. I sprayed the 1st coat on all 6 columns in about 10 minutes. I plan to add 2 more coats before I call it done :) The bummer part is I have to wait 2 hours between coats.

BTW -- how are you attaching your columns to the wall? Are you screwing them on from the inside? I can't do that on mine, so I have a few ideas I'm thinking about.

BTW -- how are you attaching your columns to the wall? Are you screwing them on from the inside? I can't do that on mine, so I have a few ideas I'm thinking about.

Perhaps a French cleat would work. But might not be possible at this point.

Perhaps a French cleat would work. But might not be possible at this point.
Good idea! This is still possible and one of the options on my list :)

I would attach some small pieces on the column's sides with short brads and glue (so not to penetrate the outside). Then, nail and glue the cleat to the edge of those small boards. This would be a pretty easy way to do it -- secure and low cost.

Pocket Hole jig might do the trick as well.

BTW -- how are you attaching your columns to the wall? Are you screwing them on from the inside? I can't do that on mine, so I have a few ideas I'm thinking about.


Yes, I will be screwing them to the wall from the inside. The front screens are removable and this will allow me to go inside and run screws through the cross-braces that span the back of the columns. If I get lucky, there will be a 2x4 in the wall that will match up behind the columns. If not, I will use some anchors. It wont take much to hold them in place.


Here you can see the 3 crossbraces at the back of the column that I will use to secure it to the wall.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4290013.jpg

Ronnie

Update...

I sprayed the 3rd coat of eggshell finish of the columns this eve. However, before I applied this coat, I went over the columns with 0000 Steal Wood to make them smooth as silk. They are looking pretty good. I hope to start on the metal inlays tomorrow eve. I bought nearly every one of the 1/2" x 8' "U" track HD had (I need nine of them). I still need to purchase a metal cutting blade (http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/accessory_category_detail.asp?categoryID=381) for my chop-saw to make those 45deg cuts a whole lot easier. The blade I'm getting is designed to cut metal studs so it should not have any problem cutting though the tiny aluminum "U" track. HD does not carry them so I may have to drop by Grainger (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/start.shtml) tomorrow to get one.

We just got back from the Gaylord Texan (http://www.gaylordhotels.com/gaylordtexan/) in Grapevine, TX (about 35 minutes from Dallas). We had not stayed there before and thought it would be fun for a quick trip. One thing that caught my eye was the Sports Bar. It had a HUGE curved ~40' wide 2.35:1 screen projecting multiple images from (3) Barco SLM R8 (http://www.projectorcentral.com/Barco-SLM_R8_Executive.htm) 8000 ANSI Lumen 3-Chip DLP projectors. The MSRP on one of these is $49k :eek: With all the lights on, you could still see the images quite well. Here is a quick pic I took of the setup.

BUD: The beer (and the frosty mug) was so cold, the brew had about 1" deep of ice chips floating along the top. I just had a Sam Adams (nothing to exotic) but it was awesome. It stayed cold until the last drop!

40' screen
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SportsBar.JPG

(3) Barco SLM R8 DLP projectors
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SportsBar-Projectors.JPG

We also went to the restaurant called The Rainforest Cafe (http://www.rainforestcafe.com/). The kids had ben asking to go and since it was 2 minutes form the hotel, we gave it a try. Neat place that actually looked like a rain-forest on the inside with animatronics and lots of sound effects. They had this really cool oval Star ceiling with blue rope lighting around it. They painted a moon and night clouds on the ceiling. They even had the milky way (a steam of tiny fiber stars clumped together that ran the length of the 20' long ceiling). It looked very authentic.

That screen is wider than 2.35. Man, that thing is HUGE.

My kids love the rainforest (although the gorillas scare my littlest one). We had one in Houston and we've been to the one in Vegas too.

We just got back from the Gaylord Texan (http://www.gaylordhotels.com/gaylordtexan/) in Grapevine, TX (about 35 minutes from Dallas). We had not stayed there before and thought it would be fun for a quick trip. One thing that caught my eye was the Sports Bar. It had a HUGE curved ~40' wide 2.35:1 screen projecting multiple images from (3) Barco SLM R8 (http://www.projectorcentral.com/Barco-SLM_R8_Executive.htm) 8000 ANSI Lumen 3-Chip DLP projectors. The MSRP on one fo these is $49k :eek: With all the lights on, you could still see the images quite well. Here is a quick pic I took of the setup.

40' screen
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SportsBar.JPG


You would think they could fill the screen better. :eek:

:rolleyes: :D

Pocket Hole jig might do the trick as well.
Yes, that might work as well. I do not own one of those (yet). Hmm, a good reason to buy another tool :D

That screen is wider than 2.35. Man, that thing is HUGE. My kids love the rainforest (although the gorillas scare my littlest one). We had one in Houston and we've been to the one in Vegas too.
Eric -- You are right -- it is wider. My 4 year old did not seem to be scared of the gorilla noises. I liked the bass they used when he did his roar.

Scott -- I'll bet they could have stuffed more on that screen. One thing that might have been cool is having scores of all the current games. They might already do that with the top scrolling LED display. If you're a sports nut, this is the place to "Watch the Games" (and pay $8 + Tip for a beer).

Ronnie -- Yep, since your columns are totally accessible from the front, you have the perfect design. I'm going to make a decision on mine ASAP so I can get those things mounted in the room. I want those thing out of the garage before I make more sawdust (from the star ceiling). BTW, how much did a pint of beer cost in US$ over in England?

Yes, that might work as well. I do not own one of those (yet). Hmm, a good reason to buy another tool :D

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009VD03Y/qid=1152071122/sr=8-1/ref=pd_bbs_1/102-0503340-7240910?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance&n=228013

BTW, how much did a pint of beer cost in US$ over in England?


It averaged around 2 pounds which is about $3.70.

Ronnie

Petrol is only around a pound a litre! Sounds like a good deal until you do the math.. ;)

Column Update..

I installed the metal inlays in the (2) rear surround columns this eve. It took a total of 24 pieces of metal and 48 cuts on my saw to get these 2 columns completed. I ended up having to buy a special metal cutting blade for my compound miter saw (different from the one I posted earlier). It cost me $68 :eek: but after tonight it was WELL worth every penny.

Here are pics of those columns. I'm really happy with the results. These were the 1st two columns I stained. I did an OK job on them but the others turned out better. If I could do it again, I would have sprayed on the stain as you guys suggested to me earlier. It would have saved me hours.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/RearSurr-Metal.JPGhttp://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/RearSurr-Metal2.JPG


BTW -- I ended up spraying on (4) coats of of Urethane Eggshell finish. Since it only took 10 minutes to apply each coat of finish to all (6) columns, I figured one extra coat could not hurt. I used a Urethane Eggshell finish that is said to give it a "hand rubbed" look. You can get this at all Benjamin Moore Paint Stores.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/allpro.JPG

Nice job Steve!! The first ones will always have a few flaws. I thought you tried different application methods on scrap. Yes or no?

I sprayed the 3rd coat of eggshell finish of the columns this eve. However, before I applied this coat, I went over the columns with 0000 Steal Wood to make them smooth as silk.
Never use Steel Wool when applying a waterbased finish. If not cleaned right, fibers of the steel wool could stay on the surface of the wood or prior finish coat and with the moisture introduced by the finish the fibers could cause a corrosion spot . When using waterborne stuff use the 3M green or gray scouring pad or a 320 to 400 grit sand paper. Its the equivalent to steel wool and the big box home centers have it.

I really love the inlays. I think im using that idea in my columns, when the time comes :D

Ivan

I thought you tried different application methods on scrap. Yes or no?
LOL! That's an understatement... :D

The inlays look great, Steve.

Steve,

Columns look great. Nice job.

Bud

Nice job on the columns Steve. Very classy looking.

Bryan

Nice job Steve!! The first ones will always have a few flaws. I thought you tried different application methods on scrap. Yes or no?


Never use Steel Wool when applying a waterbased finish. If not cleaned right, fibers of the steel wool could stay on the surface of the wood or prior finish coat and with the moisture introduced by the finish the fibers could cause a corrosion spot . When using waterborne stuff use the 3M green or gray scouring pad or a 320 to 400 grit sand paper. Its the equivalent to steel wool and the big box home centers have it.

I really love the inlays. I think im using that idea in my columns, when the time comes :D

Ivan
Now you tell me :eek: ;) I never thought about that (but I should have). Believe me, I vacuumed, wiped and eyeballed every panel before I applied the Urethane finish. Hopefully I got most of those pesky fibers. Next time I'll use those 3M pads you suggested. I've just used 0000 Steel Wool for all my other projects and never had any issues. Guess I was lucky :)

Yes, I did samples -- multiple samples as Tim pointed out. It was more in the wiping technique (to remove the stain). It was in a dimly lit garage and I just didn't wipe it off even enough. I'm just picky (and so is my wife). Yes, it's a sickness ;) However, at this point I'm happy with the results and ready to get them done so I can get started on the star ceiling.

And thanks everyone for the kudos. I'm happy to see all this work is finally starting to show some results.

Awesome columns, Steve.

Beautiful. Really a nice job.

Ditto! The columns look sweet and certainly are unique!

Looking good - hope my woodworking skills turn out work as good as yours.

Thanks guys - I really appreciate the nice comments.

I have to do some "in the field" adjustments. The metal channel I'm installing seems to be a bit wider than what I bought the other day. Same part #, etc from HD -- just a different lot I suspect (because the channel I used yesterday fit perfectly). Anyway, I need to make those column grooves about 1mm wider so I can get them in. I'll need to stop by HD tomorrow AM and get a wood file. Should not be too difficult to adjust but just a PITA.

I'm talking tomorrow off to finish up the metal inlays so I can get started on the star ceiling. I think I finally got the darn thing figured out. I wanted to make it so I could remove the star panels if ever needed and this proved a bit more challenging. In the end, I found a solution -- YEA! I'll share my notes with everyone once I get everything finalized.

I think I would visit another HDepot in hopes that they had the thinner channel. Would be a shame to mess with what you have already done.

I think I would visit another HDepot in hopes that they had the thinner channel. Would be a shame to mess with what you have already done.
I'm with you on that one. However, I bought the thinnest they sell which is 3/8". My grooves were made with a 1/2" router bit. However, I think the 3/8" is the inner width not the exterior. It was a snug fit before (which was what I was after) but not this tight. I have 6 more 8' sections I may try out also. Maybe this is just a odd-ball one.

No photos appear at all now. All other threads the photos are just fine. I want to see the columns! Is your server down? Can't access your HT website either

BK

No photos appear at all now. All other threads the photos are just fine. I want to see the columns! Is your server down? Can't access your HT website either

BK
BK,

I am sorry you are having trouble seeing the pics. All of them are showing up on my end as well as the website. miltimj had this issue a few month back. I think it ended up being his personal firewall. Once he turned it off, the pics were able to be seen.

Here is a direct link to a pic of the columns. However, if you cannot get to my website either, I'm not sure this link will work either.

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/RearSurr-Metal.JPG
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/RearSurr-Metal2.JPG

Steve,

Thank for the reply and the links. All of my firewalls are off and pop ups off as well. Still can't access. A week ago everything was fine. I just love Microsoft. Maybe I'll switch to Linux. I'll keep fiddling with it as see if I can get it working again. Can't even access the site with my FTP program now either :(

BK

For me it was my corporate firewall that was blocking it, so I had to work around that.. Usually by only reading Steve's thread at home.. :(

Lookin' good Steve! Those columns are awesome!

AWESOME columns. Your theater is going to be incredible (heck, it already is).

Now you tell me :eek: ;) I never thought about that (but I should have). Believe me, I vacuumed, wiped and eyeballed every panel before I applied the Urethane finish. Hopefully I got most of those pesky fibers. Next time I'll use those 3M pads you suggested. I've just used 0000 Steel Wool for all my other projects and never had any issues. Guess I was lucky :)

Sorry :o :o . It never crossed my mind to mention it. I always presume things, darn bad habit. My wife can't stand that about me. :D I got a couple of pm's from you, but never really knew what your finishing schedule would be. Oh well, you've done a helluva job !!!

Column Update…

I got a lot done today. I finished installing the metal inlays, made 2 of the 4 speaker grills for the columns and moved 4 of the 6 columns up to the media room.


Here is how I installed the metal inlays into the columns.

Step 1: Cut the metal. Here are a total of 48 pieces to finish the last (2) columns.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Inlays-BulkMetal.JPG

Step 1a: Here is the mess created when cutting all this aluminum. The floor looked about the same way. Shoes were a requirement or you would have a foot full of metal
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Inlays-Mess.JPG


Step 2: Place metal inlay “centered” left to right on top of the groove and use a soft hammer to pound it into the groove. Make sure you pound it in evenly across the entire length of the piece or it will bend and create a bow. The only way to fix it is to pull it out, straighten it and put it back in.

NOTE: That issue I talked about yesterday with the metal inlays not wanting to go into the groove was one bad 8’ piece. All the others were 1mm narrower and went in easily. Labels were the same -- I figure a bad lot since the only other size HD carries is 3/4" (or posibbly 1").
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Inlays-Step2.JPG


Step 3: Installed
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Inlays-Step3.JPG


Step 4: Pound in the side piece. My technique was to put the piece about 1” below the top so I could get everything aligned as I pushed it up
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Inlays-Step4.JPG


Step 5: Pound it up into place making sure you don’t go too high and push out the top piece.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Inlays-Step5.JPG


Step 6: Once you have it even with the top, you need to make sure it is flush with the column and aligned perfectly with the top piece. This takes a bit of finesse and requires you to hold you mouth just right.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Inlays-Step6.JPG


Step 7: Completed side with a nice even match-up with the top piece.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Inlays-Final.JPG


Here are all (6) columns completed with the metal inlays – YEA!!
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Inlays-ColumnsCompleted.JPG
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Inlays-ColumnsCompleted2.JPG

I don’t have any pics of the room with the columns in it because they are just leaning against the wall at an angle. I should have them mounted soon and I’ll take pics then.

Damn those look nice!

Wow, those inlays look awesome. They give the columns so much character.

So are you sure you don't want to add the square with X design on every one and metal inlay those grooves? ;) :D

Oh yeah, I suppose you want to be done sometime in 2006.

For me it was my corporate firewall that was blocking it, so I had to work around that.. Usually by only reading Steve's thread at home.. :(


I guess I'll catch up reading them at home too....only problem is that it is 9,000 miles away. I'll be there at the end of the month.
:D
BK

Steve,

Thank for the reply and the links. All of my firewalls are off and pop ups off as well. Still can't access. A week ago everything was fine. I just love Microsoft. Maybe I'll switch to Linux. I'll keep fiddling with it as see if I can get it working again. Can't even access the site with my FTP program now either :(

BK
Bob,

Try Mozilla Firefox (http://www.mozilla.com/) and see if that works. Not sure it will but it's worth a try.

Nice job Steve! Looks like all that hard work is paying off!

Randy

I'm glad you guys like the columns. My wife and I sat in the HT room mocking things up to see how everything looks together. She kept nit-picking my columns -- finding mistakes I thought only I would notice. It didn't bother me that much because I do it to her all the time (rather, she told me I do) :rolleyes: Overall, she was VERY satisfied with the way everything turned out. I'm just happy to be able to park my car in the garage again!!

So are you sure you don't want to add the square with X design on every one and metal inlay those grooves? ;) :D

Oh yeah, I suppose you want to be done sometime in 2006.
LOL! I'm metal inlay'ed out. I'm ready to move onto the next step -- the star ceiling. Hopefully I can get started tomorrow. The wife is in/out all day... so not sure how much I'll get done because I have to watch the kids.

Deleted based on info I just realized.

I guess I'll catch up reading them at home too....only problem is that it is 9,000 miles away. I'll be there at the end of the month.
:D
BK

It may also be the relative speeds. When I was in China, I could not access my FTP server at my home. I guess the speeds were just to slow...or China saw me as a threat to their society and blocked me lolol.

Bob,

Try Mozilla Firefox (http://www.mozilla.com/) and see if that works. Not sure it will but it's worth a try.


Steve,

I appreciate all the effort and support you and the guys here on your thread have given me. I like the Mozilla Firefox browser. I still cannot view any photos, but I will be going home at the end of the month and then I'll be able to catch up on your progress. I did get a chance to view your work on your site a couple of weeks ago and it is very nice. You have a real nice plan and the work you have done is first class. I did see the columns before staining and the design is really sharp.

Right now I have everything security wise shut off and still no luck. I am beginning to think it is the DSL server here in China that is preventing me from seeing them. I did get a chance to download Disc 1 of the HT Demos and mabe they didn't like that! :D

Keep up the good work and the progress and before you know it you will be relaxing in your New HT just like Bud does.

Bob

WOW! You have some mad skills there. Those are looking AWESOME! I could never do anything close to that. Great job.

Looking good! I was trying to figure out when you started your columns and see how long it took. I'm sure your happy thats behind you.

Bud

The columns look fantastic with the inlay!

Tom

Looking good! I was trying to figure out when you started your columns and see how long it took. I'm sure your happy thats behind you.

Bud
Bud,

I know it took longer than I expected to finish the columns. However, I had a few "changes" (no surprise :D) and did other things like the panels, cable and electrical along the way that slowed me down. If I had to guess, I'd say 7 months in actual days but more like 40 hours of "real" labor to cut, assemble, sand (which took forever - yldesyde/David can attest to that), veneer, stain and inlay. To date, these are the most advanced "stain grade" items I've ever made so I had a few learning curves along the way. No caulk to cover up mistakes so you need to take a bit more care in the design, cut and assembly.

The real test will be the star ceiling. It will require basically the same building technique, veneering and staining (no routing or inlays -- YEA). Now that I have experience, my goal is to get this thing built, veneered and stained in a few weeks (working a few hours each night). With small kids, I get the time after they go to bed (8:30PM) until I run out of gas (maybe 11PM).

Oh and yes, I am glad the columns ar done!

Steve,

I appreciate all the effort and support you and the guys here on your thread have given me. I like the Mozilla Firefox browser. I still cannot view any photos, but I will be going home at the end of the month and then I'll be able to catch up on your progress. I did get a chance to view your work on your site a couple of weeks ago and it is very nice. You have a real nice plan and the work you have done is first class. I did see the columns before staining and the design is really sharp.

Right now I have everything security wise shut off and still no luck. I am beginning to think it is the DSL server here in China that is preventing me from seeing them. I did get a chance to download Disc 1 of the HT Demos and mabe they didn't like that! :D

Keep up the good work and the progress and before you know it you will be relaxing in your New HT just like Bud does.

Bob
Bob,

Just so you can see something, I attached a pic of the columns with the metal inlays installed.

WOW! You have some mad skills there. Those are looking AWESOME! I could never do anything close to that. Great job.
Thanks.

I took a look at your gallery (http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphoto.php/photo/21508/cat/500/ppuser/57240) and loved that pic of your kids watching the movie. They had all their "kid" chairs, stuffed animals and dolls. I see my girls doing the same thing. That was definately a Kodak moment :) You also look to be making some progress on your HT. Do you have an AVS construction thread started yet?

Steve,

WOW. Those look great. :eek: I'll bet you can't wait to get them in position and see what they will look like as the theater comes together.

Thanks for the preview. I'll be sure and catch up when I get back.


Bob

If you need help during the next few days let me know. I'm just as excited about the star ceiling as you are ;-)

Steve - those columns look Great. Star ceiling next is it?

Mark

Holy Smokes!!!! Those things turned out great. Very nice work man, cant wait to see them installed.

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Inlays-ColumnsCompleted2.JPG


You need some help today or tomorrow on that ceiling? I am at a standstill until the carpet gets installed at my place.

Ronnie

Hi Steve,

Those columns turned out very nice indeed. They will really enhance the room. I especially like the metal strips and how you've embedded them into the wood.

Very well done!

Steve,

WOW. Those look great. :eek: I'll bet you can't wait to get them in position and see what they will look like as the theater comes together.

Thanks for the preview. I'll be sure and catch up when I get back.


Bob
Bob,

Glad you finally got a chance to see the columns :) I've moved all (6) up to the room and they are mounted "temporarily" to the wall. I just needed to see how they looked in the room. I'll have some pics shortly.

The columns look fantastic with the inlay!

TomThanks!

Steve - those columns look Great. Star ceiling next is it?

MarkYes. In fact, Ron (Ronnie_Jackson) and David (Yldesyde) came over today and we cut all the wood for the star ceiling. It took 3-sheets of 3/4" MDF and about 25% of a sheet of 1/2" MDF. I should begin construction tomorrow eve.


Hi Steve,

Those columns turned out very nice indeed. They will really enhance the room. I especially like the metal strips and how you've embedded them into the wood.

Very well done!Den,

Hey buddy -- good to heard from you again! Glad you like my slow but consistent progress ;) I'm waiting to see some updates on the "The Back Hole Theater" (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=629990) :D

You need some help today or tomorrow on that ceiling? I am at a standstill until the carpet gets installed at my place.

Ronnie If you need help during the next few days let me know. I'm just as excited about the star ceiling as you are ;-)
I wanted to thank both of you for offering some help today. Ripping full sheets of 4x8 3/4" MDF can be a bit challenging when doing it alone. My wife helped me once in the beginning of my HT construction and has never offered again -- guess she didn't like it too much :rolleyes: Anytime either of you need a some help, please let me know.

Ronnie -- Glad you like the Volcano paint color. I think it will look great in your room especially with the blue accents in the wall fabric and carpet. I can't wait to see your HT in person once that carpet is installed.

ebr/Eric -- Looks like you have started "The Volcano Trend" :D

Steve, it was great to meet you and your family along with David today. Your theater is going to look great. Its cool that we can actually contribute to each others build.

Your welcome over anytime. I can always use the help ;)

Let me know if you need any more help also.

Ronnie

...ebr/Eric -- Looks like you have started "The Volcano Trend" :D

Glad I could contribute something :).

Now give us those pics of the columns in place.

Now give us those pics of the columns in place.
Ask and you shall receive!

Here are a few quick pics I took late yesterday afternoon. If you notice, I have some simple ”L” brackets to attach the top part of the column to the wall. These will be covered up by the crown molding, so no worries there. I plan to install a French Cleat toward the bottom to hold the lower portion of the column in place. I need to be sure these things are tight against the wall or they might vibrate with heavy bass in the room. I’m also considering putting a thin layer of cork (1/16”) between the column edges and the wall just in case. I’m using cork vs. a silicone because I’d like to have these things removable (just in case).

Left Wall (looking to the front)
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/ColumnsInstalled-Left.JPG

Left Wall (looking to the rear)
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/ColumnsInstalled-Left2.JPG


Right Wall (looking to the front)
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/ColumnsInstalled-Right.JPG

Right Wall (looking to the rear)
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/ColumnsInstalled-Right2.JPG


Rear Wall
I installed the speaker grills in the rear columns. It is a simple piece of ¼” Luan that I cut the center out and covered with speaker material. It is held in with friction. I did embed washers in the corners of the luan just in case I decide to use magnets to hold it in place. Also, that rear window will be covered up eventually. It's kind of nice having it in there when I work on the room -- especially since there are NO lights in the room yet :D
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/ColumnsInstalled-Rear.JPG

BTW -- That's my "Thinking Chair". It will eventually be recovered and moved into the Game Room. It's nice to have a comfortable place to sit down and ponder ideas for the HT.


Here is a shot I took of the speaker grill before I wrapped it with speaker material. I will eventually cut a hole in the area behind the grill to fit the "actual" speaker.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/RearSpeakerNoGrill.JPGhttp://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/RearSpeakerGrill-NoGOM.JPG

I love the columns. Fanstastic work!

Those are some nice columns. I like the overall look of your room. I'm slowly greasing the gears with the wife for HT bliss in a few years. lol.

I love the columns. Fanstastic work!
Thanks! I checked out your HT and WOW! A really nice job. I really like the lighted columns in the front and the curved archway in the rear. A 1st class job.

I'll bet those Axioms sound great! I think the QS8 design is one of the best surrounds out there for the money. Nice gear too!

Steve,

The thinking chair is a severely underrated design/building tool, imo. :-)

Those are some nice columns. I like the overall look of your room. I'm slowly greasing the gears with the wife for HT bliss in a few years. lol.
Keep that greese going. I talked about it with my wife for about 3 years. When we started to look, we had the Media Room as one of the top requirements for the new house. My wife is getting excited about the room (maybe not as much as me) but she is ready to start enjoying the room.

Both of us are looking forward to watching movies where we won't have to turn it up to hear the dialog and turn it down when the action starts. With bpapes help, I think we'll be very happy with the audio properties of the room :D

Steve,

The thinking chair is a severely underrated design/building tool, imo. :-)
I completely agree! I can not tell you how many eves I sat there thinking about the next item on the list. Every room should have one :)

Poor Chinadog/Bud only had lawn furniture in his room during the build. I think that is why he got so much done in such a short period of time -- no comfortable seating to slow him down :;

Well, some people are lucky, in that they can see all the steps from start to finish. It is a rare project where that is the case for me. I find there are stages where I need to "let the space speak to me" and then I can move ahead.

Poor Chinadog/Bud only had lawn furniture in his room during the build. I think that is why he got so much done in such a short period of time -- no comfortable seating to slow him down :;

Nah, I just get bored easily. Need to be busy, busy. Like hltr says, sometime you have to let it lay low for a while and let it tell you what it wants you to do!

Bud

Is that about how high all your surround speakers are going to be. Just seems a bit high for the sides, but I am very new to this....

Well, some people are lucky, in that they can see all the steps from start to finish. It is a rare project where that is the case for me. I find there are stages where I need to "let the space speak to me" and then I can move ahead. Nah, I just get bored easily. Need to be busy, busy. Like hltr says, sometime you have to let it lay low for a while and let it tell you what it wants you to do!

Bud
Sometimes the room has to speak to me too. And sitting and pondering is the only way to solve the problem. I still do that today but a lot less since I "think" I've got most everything figured out.

However, after last night (as I begun cutting/assembling the star ceiling) I decided to make a few modifications. Those mods required me to re-think my design. I think I have everything adjusted now and will re-start tonight. I plan to work every night this week so I can start veneering next week :)

Is that about how high all your surround speakers are going to be. Just seems a bit high for the sides, but I am very new to this....
The tweets on the speakers will be at about 6.5' from the floor. I read that anything between 4.5' to 6.5' is considered okay. It might be better 1' lower but "visually" my design worked out best for the room.

One thing I learned when I started the build on my HT was that building any HT is full of subtle (and no so subtle) compromises. When you have a WAF involved and limited space, sometimes you need to do what you need to do. As bpape/Bryan (my acoustical engineer) would say "We'll just have to work with what we have".

You could tilt them behind the grills if needed right?

You could tilt them behind the grills if needed right?
Yes I could. However, with the limited depth I have (8.5"), they could not be tilted much. I have not ruled that out. Thanks for the suggestion.

Star Ceiling Update…

I’m pretty much finished with the frame for the Star Ceiling. The build went very fast – guess I’m getting better at this – repetition is your friend :D

Assembly
This is built out of (4) pieces of ¾” MDF. I used this for the strength because of the way I will be hanging it from the ceiling – more on that later. All sides were glued and nailed with 2” brads. I made a mistake on the 1st one I assembled an needed to make a replacement. When I went to tear the old one apart, it took a sledge hammer to break the thing apart. The strength of the glue and 2” nails really holds this thing together. I did not use any bracer boards inside (as I did with the columns) because they were not needed.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SF-Assembly1.jpg http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SF-Assembly2.jpg http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SF-Assembly3.jpg

Here I have one side glued and then nailed. The 3rd pic if after I glued and nailed the other side.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SF-Assembly4.jpg http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SF-Assembly5.jpg http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SF-Assembly6.jpg

Next, I applied the top. The last pic shows the (4) completed frames.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SF-Assembly7.jpg http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SF-Assembly8.jpg

Star Ceiling Update Continued…

Trimming Up the Edges

I learned this trick from the DIY speaker and subwoofer guys. Instead of trying to match up the edges of the boards, bondo and sand smooth (as I did with the columns), you overhang the board just a bit and use a trim bit to make it flush.

Here is the before
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SF-Router1.jpg

Here is the 1” trim bit – notice the wheel at the top that just runs along the board for a perfect cut
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SF-RouterBit.jpg

Ahh – and the mess associated with the cutting. I’m covered with sawdust. The sawdust on me is from just a single column trimming.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SF-RouterMess1.jpg http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SF-RouterMess2.jpg

Here is the completed smooth edge – NICE! I don't even think I will need to sand this before I apply the veneer. If I do, it will be a very light sanding.
BTW -- the 1/2" piece of MDF I applied to the edge there will act as a small shelf to support part of the actual star ceiling gridwork.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SF-Router2.jpg


Final

This is what you will see when looking up at the ceiling. In the lower left corner you can see the corner accent I still need to apply. I just have the boards leaning up against the frame. They still need to be cut to size and applied. Since I’m veneering, I will not permanently apply them until the veneer is applied to the frame and to themselves.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SF-FrameBottom.jpg

This is the “top” that will not be seen. Notice the “gully” that runs along the top. This will hide the rope lighting
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SF-FrameTop.jpg

NOTE: These pics were taken before I applied the 1/2" MDF shelf pictured earlier.

I still need to cut all the holes for the can lights, access/vent holes on the top, gently round over the corners (so I can use a single piece of veneer for the top and sides) and build the star ceiling grid. I bought the veneer yesterday and plan to apply it early next week. I also bought a single can light and will be using that as a template.

I plan to hang this with 3/8” or ½” threaded rod. Since I have access to the attic above, it will be easy to build some cross-braces up there to support the rod. Also, It will allow me to make fine adjustments for level and height. Final size ended up being 9.25' x 6.5'. The frames are 7.5" wide x 8" tall. With these new measurements, I can use a single piece of veneer on the long side. I originally thought I would need a seam but not anymore. The extra 1.25' will be covered up by the corner accents :)

MDF is nice material but its the worst at dust generation.

Looks like that PC package was popular :)

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SF-Assembly3.jpg


http://www.reedsplace.com/Theater/P4134422sm.jpg

Nice work! Can't wait to see the final result on the star ceiling.

MDF is nice material but its the worst at dust generation.

Looks like that PC package was popular :)
You can't beat the price. I've used that thing so many times I can't count anymore. One of the best tools I'd ever bought. Yours looks a little cleaner than mine, though. I have a bunch of wood glue on the handle. I'll get that off once the HT project is done.

Nice work! Can't wait to see the final result on the star ceiling.
Yes, me too! I guess I need to get those darn fiber stars ordered pretty soon :rolleyes: :D

Looking good. I just ordered my star fibers and light box last night. Hope to get started on my star ceiling in the next few weeks.

Drew

Looking good. I just ordered my star fibers and light box last night. Hope to get started on my star ceiling in the next few weeks.

DrewDrew,

Where did you get your fiber and lightbox? I was planning to use this (http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/) place.

How many stars are you doing? What density (stars per sq/ft)? I was thinking 3-4/sqft myself.

Quick Update...

I cut all the holes for the can lights, made the corner accents and routed all the edges (to make veneering a little easier). It's actually starting to take shape :)

I'm now working on how to hang it to the ceiling. The plan is to do a trial "hang" before I veneer just in case I need to make any adjustments. The wife saw it this eve and said it was huge :D

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SF-holescut.jpg


I brought a 5 year old Epson 4:3 800x600 LCD projector home from work this weekend. I set it up in the HT with a sheet so the kids could watch a movie (they had been pestering me for the past few weeks). I used my "test" HTPC with TheaterTek and ffdshow to watch the movie. Ffdshow really made the picture more crisp and I plan to use this when I get the room setup. I also love the ability it has to have memorized settings (by movie) for aspect ratio. This will make getting an Anamorphic lens a lot easier in the WAF department.

THAT IS GONNA BE SWEET!!! i like how that turned out. how much was the star package BTW id love to do that

THAT IS GONNA BE SWEET!!! i like how that turned out. how much was the star package BTW id love to do thatGlad you like it. I cannot wait until I get it veneered and stained!

On the Fiber -- I have not purchased anything yet. However, this is what I plan to buy:

Fiber Stars (http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Endglow.htm)
Length: (4) 9' runs (Total = 36')
Details: (32) .75mm, (10) .5mm & (6) 1.5mm Fibers
Cost: $3.10/ft (Total = $111.60)
http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Egpack48a.jpg (http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Endglow.htm)

Lightbox (http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Lightunits.htm)
Details: With B/W Sparkle Wheel
Cost: $165
http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/SPA75_lg.jpg (http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Lightunits.htm)

This will give me about 128 .75mm stars (plus another 64 of the other sizes) for a density of about 3-4 stars per/ft.

wow only like 300 bucks? how much area of your ceiling are you doing? you room is alot larger than mine so if your doing a good chunk that sounds like a winner to me!!

Drew,

Where did you get your fiber and lightbox? I was planning to use this (http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/) place.

How many stars are you doing? What density (stars per sq/ft)? I was thinking 3-4/sqft myself.


Steve, I ordered from the same place. I ordered the FOPSV75 with a black sparkle and 120' of EG-PACK48 cable. All in all it was $530. I am doing a eastern spring sky (orion, etc) So not that many stars. So it will be around 4 stars per sq ft. There will be some areas with a few more. I measured out to use 450 star points. I am doing an area 9' x 12'.

Drew

Man, you guys are making me jealous. :p

Ronnie

Nice work.

Once you get it done and turn off everything but the starfield, she'll be glad it's that big. The kids will find the stars 'totally cool' too.

Bryan

Glad you like it. I cannot wait until I get it veneered and stained!

On the Fiber -- I have not purchased anything yet. However, this is what I plan to buy:

Fiber Stars (http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Endglow.htm)
Length: (4) 9' runs (Total = 36')
Details: (32) .75mm, (10) .5mm & (6) 1.5mm Fibers
Cost: $3.10/ft (Total = $111.60)
http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Egpack48a.jpg (http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Endglow.htm)

Lightbox (http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Lightunits.htm)
Details: With B/W Sparkle Wheel
Cost: $165
http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/SPA75_lg.jpg (http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Lightunits.htm)

This will give me about 128 .75mm stars (plus another 64 of the other sizes) for a density of about 3-4 stars per/ft.

Very nice info. Take pictures too during step 1 to step n installation :D

Quick Update...

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SF-holescut.jpg



I still couldn't figure this out, what is this and what is it made of?

I still couldn't figure this out, what is this and what is it made of?


Its a new hybrid ceiling mount subwoofer design made out of mdf. It houses 13 8" subs.


Just kidding. :D I will let Steve explain what this really is.


Ronnie

Column Update…

I got a lot done today. I finished installing the metal inlays, made 2 of the 4 speaker grills for the columns and moved 4 of the 6 columns up to the media room.


Here is how I installed the metal inlays into the columns.

Step 1: Cut the metal. Here are a total of 48 pieces to finish the last (2) columns.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Inlays-BulkMetal.JPG

Step 1a: Here is the mess created when cutting all this aluminum. The floor looked about the same way. Shoes were a requirement or you would have a foot full of metal
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Inlays-Mess.JPG


Step 2: Place metal inlay “centered” left to right on top of the groove and use a soft hammer to pound it into the groove. Make sure you pound it in evenly across the entire length of the piece or it will bend and create a bow. The only way to fix it is to pull it out, straighten it and put it back in.

NOTE: That issue I talked about yesterday with the metal inlays not wanting to go into the groove was one bad 8’ piece. All the others were 1mm narrower and went in easily. Labels were the same -- I figure a bad lot since the only other size HD carries is 3/4" (or posibbly 1").
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Inlays-Step2.JPG


Step 3: Installed
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Inlays-Step3.JPG


Step 4: Pound in the side piece. My technique was to put the piece about 1” below the top so I could get everything aligned as I pushed it up
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Inlays-Step4.JPG


Step 5: Pound it up into place making sure you don’t go too high and push out the top piece.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Inlays-Step5.JPG


Step 6: Once you have it even with the top, you need to make sure it is flush with the column and aligned perfectly with the top piece. This takes a bit of finesse and requires you to hold you mouth just right.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Inlays-Step6.JPG


Step 7: Completed side with a nice even match-up with the top piece.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Inlays-Final.JPG


Here are all (6) columns completed with the metal inlays – YEA!!
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Inlays-ColumnsCompleted.JPG
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Inlays-ColumnsCompleted2.JPG

I don’t have any pics of the room with the columns in it because they are just leaning against the wall at an angle. I should have them mounted soon and I’ll take pics then.

I'm bowing down at your work. IT IS AMAZING!!! I will have to ask you someday what tools I need to buy when I start my basement finishing. By the way, what type of wood are those?

Its a new hybrid ceiling mount subwoofer design made out of mdf. It houses 13 8" subs.


Just kidding. :D I will let Steve explain what this really is.


Ronnie

I was browsing his previous post. I found out that it's for his star ceiling :D

wow only like 300 bucks? how much area of your ceiling are you doing? you room is alot larger than mine so if your doing a good chunk that sounds like a winner to me!!
I'm doing a subset of the ceiling. It is actually a relatively small area -- roughly 9' x 6.5'. I may add more but not sure yet.

There is a fellow AVSer here in Plano, TX that did his entire ceiling and the vaults on all sides and came up with 1000 stars (a 1000 points of light as he said).

I still couldn't figure this out, what is this and what is it made of?
It is the coffered frame to house the star ceiling (but it looks like you already figured it out). It is built out of 3/4" MDF and will be veneered in Maple (just like I did with the columns). The holes are for the 4" can lights.

Steve, I ordered from the same place. I ordered the FOPSV75 with a black sparkle and 120' of EG-PACK48 cable. All in all it was $530. I am doing a eastern spring sky (orion, etc) So not that many stars. So it will be around 4 stars per sq ft. There will be some areas with a few more. I measured out to use 450 star points. I am doing an area 9' x 12'.

Drew
Thanks Drew. I was actually planning to do the same skyline. Orion is one of my favorite constellations. I'll be watching your thread for progress on your Star Ceiling.

Nice work.

Once you get it done and turn off everything but the starfield, she'll be glad it's that big. The kids will find the stars 'totally cool' too.

Bryan
You're right - both the kids and the wife will love it. I can't wait to see it myself :)

Its a new hybrid ceiling mount subwoofer design made out of mdf. It houses 13 8" subs.

Ronnie
Hmm -- don't give me any ideas! LOL :D

Very nice info. Take pictures too during step 1 to step n installation :D
I plan to - don't worry. I'll just be following SandmanX's thread as my guide. Why re-invent when you can just "borrow" the instructions.

I'm bowing down at your work. IT IS AMAZING!!! I will have to ask you someday what tools I need to buy when I start my basement finishing. By the way, what type of wood are those?
Just like the star ceiling, it is 3/4" MDF with maple veneer. It's really easy to do. As far as tools, start asking for them now (Xmas, Bday, etc) so you'll be ready when you get started.

Tools I recommend:

- Table Saw
- 12" Compound Miter Saw
- Router
- Orbital Sander
- "Shop" Vacuum (a must if you plan to cut MDF)

Oh and you'll want more once you get started. It's all about the "More Power" thing :D

A friend of mine once told me "If you use a tool one time, its paid for itself".


Ronnie

it sure is quiet over there in Swithey land. :) Did the wife tie you up with fiber pack and lock you in the garage?

Ronnie

Just like the star ceiling, it is 3/4" MDF with maple veneer. It's really easy to do. As far as tools, start asking for them now (Xmas, Bday, etc) so you'll be ready when you get started.

Tools I recommend:

- Table Saw
- 12" Compound Miter Saw
- Router
- Orbital Sander
- "Shop" Vacuum (a must if you plan to cut MDF)

Oh and you'll want more once you get started. It's all about the "More Power" thing :D

Sweet! Does maple veneers need to be stained or are they ready for showtime? Where do you buy those? I saw some veneers at Menards but I think, they're don't look nice.

Star Field Update…

I took the day off from work today to devote to the HT. Yldesyde/David came over to assist me with the “trial” hang of the Star Field frame. Thanks again David for your time!

The 4” cans I am using require some breathing room around them or they will shut off. Since the top of the frame was sealed, I cut some rectangular holes on top of where the can will be so it could breath. If you look at the 2nd pic, you can see the round hole on the other side where the can light will be mounted.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SC-Hanging-1.JPG
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SC-Hanging-2.JPG


It took me some time to figure out to hang this thing from the ceiling and I finally came up with a plan. Since this thing has some good weight to it, I wanted to be sure it was secured properly. I ended up using some 6” 5/8” dia screw-in eye bolts screwed directly into the ceiling joists above the drywall (not pictured). I had to add some stud re-enforcement since the locations for these eye-hooks was not always where a joist happened to be.

Below, you can see the hardware I attached to the star field frame. I wanted a large diameter washer and they only had 2” wide ones with large holes in the center. The fix was to use (3) smaller washers on top of it for added strength and a secure fit. I could have probably gone to a special hardware store and found it in the single washer but I was at HD (you know the story).
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SC-Hanging-3.JPG


If you notice, the hole in the star frame is larger than the bolt. This gave me about ¼” wiggle room all the way around to adjust the frame from side to side and front to back. NOTE: after putting the frame up once, I needed a bit more “goof” room. Some of the holes were made more elongated – either horizontally or vertically (depending on the situation). Honestly, this was the beauty of the design because I knew adjustments would be needed “in the field”
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SC-Hanging-4.JPG


Here is the assembled hook on top and down below. I plan to add a 3rd nut below with some loctite to keep the nuts from vibrating loose over time.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SC-Hanging-5.JPG
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SC-Hanging-6.JPG


Here is the star field frame going up. You can see the rear section hanging and the left section is about to go up.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SC-Hanging-7.JPG

I cut some access holes on the sides to allow adjustment of the threaded rod (raise, lower, shift left/right) while it was hanging from the ceiling. Because this thing is only 3” from the ceiling, access from above was very limited. These slots will be above the fiber stars so they will be totally hidden from view. The second pic is a closeup up the access hole.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SC-Hanging-8.JPG
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SC-Hanging-9.JPG

Here are all (4) sections hanging from the ceiling. It does not look perfect because all the pieces of the frame are not attached to eath other nor do I have the corner "accent" pieces applied yet. I promise when it is done, everything will be level and straight. You’ll never know it is (4) separate pieces.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SC-Hanging-10.JPG

I plan to sand, veneer and stain it this week. More soon.

That looks pretty cool Steve. You are going to veneer that thing at ground level right? Im assuming you will, then hang it again, then tie it together with the corner accents.

Ronnie

Looks good...cant wait to see the final product.

Robert

Looking good. I like the modular construction idea. I was wondering how many people you were going to need to put the whole thing up as a single unit! :)

That looks pretty cool Steve. You are going to veneer that thing at ground level right? Im assuming you will, then hang it again, then tie it together with the corner accents.

Ronnie
Yes, I plan to do all the work in the garage (my new home). all (4) pieces are on the garage floor as we speak. I must say with the heat getting over 100deg here in Texas, it does make working out there a little more uncomfortable.

Once completed, I'll re-hang and hook everything together. The alignment will take a little effort but once it is done, I should never have to take it down again. The center "star" area will be easily removable and make easy access to all electrical connections up on the ceiling. I'll have a box for each circuit (5 total) for easy connects/disconnects. The star light box will be up in the attic above the ceiling. I called the fiber optics store about the heat in the attic and he said it would not be a problem.