Great choice Steve ! Once you get proficient spraying, you won't be disappointed with that system. Accuspray makes great rigs.
Hopefully there will be short learning curve since I've had some experience already with a sprayer. Enjoy your quick trip to Austin for the Acoustical Cotton.

Ronnie -- you may have started a trend for day trips to Austin for stupid sound absorbing cotton. I'll bet Ivans wife thinks he is insaine for driving that far for that stuff :D

Ronnie -- you may have started a trend for day trips to Austin for stupid sound absorbing cotton. I'll bet Ivans wife thinks he is insaine for driving that far for that stuff :D

She thinks a whole lot more things of me, but that a whole 'nuther thread. :D

Ronnie, Steve...Hope you and your families are okay after the storm. We got spared this time. No hail and hardly any rain.

I was dropping by to check in on Steve, Ronnie, and all the others in the DFW area. Looks like you guys got hit pretty hard.

Hope all is well.

Bryan

I was dropping by to check in on Steve, Ronnie, and all the others in the DFW area. Looks like you guys got hit pretty hard.

Hope all is well.

Bryan
I delayed my drive to Oklahoma one day to avoid the bad weather (just in case). However, the really bad weather ended up SW of my location. We only got a little rain and no hail. Everything is good :)

All I got was rain and a lot of wind. All the hail and tornados were east of me. I know there was a tornado out near Rockwall, the city where Ronnie lives. A friend in Hurst said they had tennis ball sized hail.

I've decided to bite the bullet and get a Turbine sprayer.

[snip]

And accts4mjs/Mike -- thanks for letting me bend your ear on this purchase. Sorry to keep you up so late :) If it does not work out, I hold you responsible :D ;)

LOL! Yeah, if you're not happy with it feel free to ship it to my house. I'll gladly pay for the cost of shipping ;)

Mike

Quick Update…

Sorry I have not posted much progress on the ‘ole HT. Here is a quick pic of the rear cabinet minus the top and bottom pieces. I’m working on the top piece right now and will have that completed hopefully by the weekend. I think the JocaBean (very dark brown) slats turned out pretty nice. Everything needs a few more coats of clear and I’ll be just about ready to get it installed in the room. More soon :)

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/RearCab-DryFit1.JPG
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/RearCab-DryFit2.JPG

Beautiful! Steve.. what product are you using for clear?

Beautiful! Steve.. what product are you using for clear?
Thanks!

I used a Urethane Eggshell finish that is said to give it a "hand rubbed" look. You can get this at all Benjamin Moore Paint Stores. I apply it with a spray gun but have brushed it on before as well with great results. Since it is water-based (and low VOC), it has very little odor and clean-up is a breeze.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/allpro.JPG

Steve your theater looks increadible. If I was more ambitious, I might doing about 1/4 the staining you've done. As it stands, Behr paint is my new best friend! Great job.

Steve, very nice job on the rear cabinet staining - looks great already and will look even better with the Urethane finish! :cool:

Steve your theater looks increadible. If I was more ambitious, I might doing about 1/4 the staining you've done. As it stands, Behr paint is my new best friend! Great job.
Thanks for the kind words! I'm with you on reducing the amount of work. That is why I'm buying the new spray gun to save some time. I do like paint a lot since you can caulk mistakes pretty easily. With stain, you can fudge some stuff but it is much more difficult getting it to look "just right".

Steve, very nice job on the rear cabinet staining - looks great already and will look even better with the Urethane finish! :cool:
Thanks Mike. They already have (1) coat but will dress up a bit after a few more coats. This eggshell finish has very little sheen -- very natural looking.

Finally a REAL Update :D

Sorry for the slow build-time on my HT lately :o Seems like I've had lots of weekend activates and honey dos that just drained me and a cold beer sounded much better than working on the room ;)

However, before I get started – I want to send a big THANK YOU out to David! Without his help, I would have never been able to carry this cabinet up to the room or get it mounted. He took time out of his busy weekend to help and I really appreciate it!!

The Rear Cabinet it finally up in the room – YEA! We went through a few changes along the way which slowed things down a bit. The 1st major change was that the large upper section (designed to hide the projector) was replaced by a small shelf (more on that later). 2nd -- with the large mammoth projector box gone, I had to create a way to mount the crown and “cap” the rear cabinet. I went with the same design I used in the front of the room above the screen.

Anyway .. onto the pics :)

Here is a straight-on shot. I still need to add the crown to the left and right sides. The bottom section is the next thing to tackle. It will act as a rear bass trap and I’ll cover it with the same brown fabric I used for the wall panels. The insulation you see back there is what I used to fill the window cavity behind the cabinet.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/RearCabinet-Completed1.jpg
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/RearCabinet-Completed2.jpg


You can see the curve better in this pic. This piece has both aesthetic and audio duties in the room. It acts as a rear sound-diffuser which should help even out the sound for the rear row. Bpape and I had discussed the curve from the very beginning and it is kind of weird seeing it finally installed in the room. This cabinet was definitely more challenging to build -- but from the moment I put it up, I was happy. Oh and the wife just loves it – HUGE brownie points!
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/RearCabinet-Completed3.jpg


This is a close up of the shelf I built to hold the projector. I played around with the idea of using a pole for a ceiling mount. I also thought about attaching the projector to the bottom of the shelf. In the end, this is what everyone liked best. This shelf is a 2-ply design built out of ¾ Birch plywood and ¼ masonite with maple veneer on the edges. I used the Masonite layer for 2 reasons – (1) to create a bit more rigidity and (2) to give the paint a perfectly smooth grain-free surface to paint. Ahh – a good segway to the paint. I used about 5 coats of Rustoleum gloss black with 0000 Steel Wool sanding between each coat. I applied it with a very fine roller. The idea was the have the shelf blend in with the gloss black of the Infocus projector. Mission Accomplished IMO :) The other nice part about this shelf is it is easily removable and movable in the event I get a new projector with a center lens vs. off-center like I have now. The Anamorphic lens is at the perfect height just resting on the shelf and works out really well. Gravity is holding it in place right now but I plan to add some black velcro to keep it from falling off during the 16Hz bass-crazed PULSE (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=820187) scene.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/RearCabinet-Completed4.jpg

I plan to work on the trim and bass trap this week.

Steve - coming along great. Have you had the IB cranked up to see if and flexing/vibration on the PJ shelf?

Cheers,
Mark

Nice Steve!

Why did you get rid of the projector box?

Steve - coming along great. Have you had the IB cranked up to see if and flexing/vibration on the PJ shelf?

Cheers,
Mark
Not yet. The wife wanted to watch the Mavericks play last night. I'll see about doing a test sometime this week when everyone is out of the house.

Steve, the craftsmanship is incredible. I've given up on the idea of staining in my current HT. Maybe if I sell the house some day and build my own I'll stain. Keep up the great work.

Nice Steve!

Why did you get rid of the projector box?
With a buddy's help, we put it temporarily up on the wall to see if we liked it. After staring at it a bit and thinking overnight, my wife and I decided it was just too "heavy looking" back there. If I didn't have the ceiling vault and it "hugged" the ceiling, I think it would have looked fine. But since it had all that empty air-space above it, it just didn't look right. Too bad we didn't make that decision BEFORE I built it :( I put a lot of time into the piece and still am not sure how to get rid of it.

Here is a side pic of the monster when we did the test fit a few weeks back. It just stuck out way too much and I made it as shallow as I could make it. It's yours if you have any interest ;)
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/RearCabinet-Dryfit-SideView2.JPG
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/RearCabinet-Dryfit-SideView.JPG

Steve, the craftsmanship is incredible. I've given up on the idea of staining in my current HT. Maybe if I sell the house some day and build my own I'll stain. Keep up the great work.
Thanks. Your HT is coming along rather nicely. I love the custom base molding
you made. I made mine as well. Oh and been there on the sawdust in the garage thing. I find that after a vacuum, a leaf blower works very well to get the floors nice and clean :)

Wow! I see what you mean.

...and a cold beer sounded much better than working on the room


Oh now I see what's slowing me down. :D

Nice Job ;)

Great work Steve - looking good!
But you should better secure your Panamorph...the last thing you want is that it hits you on the head during a heavy LFE scene.... :eek:

Great work Steve - looking good!
But you should better secure your Panamorph...the last thing you want is that it hits you on the head during a heavy LFE scene.... :eek:
Noted! :D

Oh now I see what's slowing me down. :D

Nice Job ;)
Thanks Ivan. Yep -- beer and power tools.. not a good combination :p Beer and a Movie in my own Home Theater -- Priceless :D

How do the rears surrounds sound for the rear seats?

How do the rears surrounds sound for the rear seats?
Remarkably well given how close they are to the rear seating. Those DIY speakers are as good or better than you said they would be. They were a lot of work but well worth time it took to build them.

Good!
I figured you would be happier with DIY than paying 75 % markup on mediocrity.

I feel comfortable with my plans with rears now that you like your distance

great job Steve, really quality work! I loved the projector box but yes from the side, a little too much.. Looks great

With a buddy's help, we put it temporarily up on wall to see if we liked it. After staring at it a bit and thinking overnight, my wife and I decided it was just too "heavy looking" back there.

I love the projector box! I bet your buddy was PO'd you nixed it after hauling that bad-boy up the stairs! ;)

Hi Steve,

That woodwork you have done looks fabulous!! Great job. Too bad the projector box has to go...

Best!

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/RearCabinet-Completed4.jpg


Don't those side panels pop off so you can have the "InFocus" brand name right side up? ;)

great job Steve, really quality work! I loved the projector box but yes from the side, a little too much.. Looks great Thanks and agreed!


I love the projector box! I bet your buddy was PO'd you nixed it after hauling that bad-boy up the stairs! ;) Actually, he had to help me bring it back to the garage as well :o After we did that, we watched a bunch of LFE and surround demo material until about 11:30pm. He's building his own HT and needed a quick-fix until his was completed :D


Hi Steve,

That woodwork you have done looks fabulous!! Great job. Too bad the projector box has to go...

Best! Thanks Den. I just have not be able to tear it apart yet because of all the time I put into building it. I plan to clean up the garage tonight and it will be dismantled/chopped up at that time.

Don't those side panels pop off so you can have the "InFocus" brand name right side up? ;)
You would think so!! No, they do not just pop off and flip around. I would have to take the projector apart to get to the screws (and void my warranty). I did consider it but decided against it for the moment.

Why did you mount it upside down? Should I mount mine upside down in my opening??

Thats what i havent been sure of

Ryan

Why did you mount it upside down? Should I mount mine upside down in my opening??

Thats what i havent been sure of

Ryan
Ryan,

If a projector has lens-shift, it can be mounted right side up. However, since the INxx line of Infocus projectors does not have this feature, I am forced to flip it over in order for the image to shoot "downward" to the screen vs. "upward" at the ceiling. The electronics inside the projector automatically flip the image so it won't be upside down.

If you are still planning on the Panasonic PT-AX100U Projector, you will be fine mounting it right side up since you have lens-shift capability.

Yup..already picked it up and tested a bit...awesome.

Your theatre looks awesome by the way
Ryan

Yup..already picked it up and tested a bit...awesome.

Your theatre looks awesome by the way
Ryan
That's one hell of a projector for the price. Please let me know how it performs in your room. And thanks for the kind words.

Looking good Steve. You've got to be close to being done-done now, right? Minus the bar area maybe....

Bud

Hey Steve, looking really,really good!!!!!
The room is awesome!! truly an inspiration!!!
I'm interested in your speaker design, I'm thinking about building some mains and a center channel and maybe the surround too.
Can you tell me little bit more or point me to the design, and I would like to know how much on all the parts if is OK with you :) You can send me a PM or post it, its up to you.

Thanks :D :D
Cheers,
Rodny

Echoing what everyone else has said. That new addition looks great! I might be the odd man out but I liked the projector box...sux you can't put that to use.

I'm with Jason. I quite liked the projector box but it may look very different in-person than it does in the pictures. Everything in the room looks fantastic!

Rob

I'm with Jason. I quite liked the projector box but it may look very different in-person than it does in the pictures. Everything in the room looks fantastic!

It's pretty much unanimous! Bring the projector box back!

Wap

Echoing what everyone else has said. That new addition looks great! I might be the odd man out but I liked the projector box...sux you can't put that to use. I'm with Jason. I quite liked the projector box but it may look very different in-person than it does in the pictures. Everything in the room looks fantastic! It's pretty much unanimous! Bring the projector box back!
Guys,

Well it looks like it is too late to save the projector box. I destroyed it this eve and now I can reclaim more space in my garage. This thing was built like a tank. It took me about 30 minutes to take out all the screws and break it apart into pieces with my rubber mallet. I did have fun chopping it up from my table saw. The carnage fit into (3) garbage bags. Trash pickup is on Monday :p

But thanks for paying ohmage to the BEAST :D

Looking good Steve. You've got to be close to being done-done now, right? Minus the bar area maybe....

Bud
Bud,

Funny that you say those words. I really never figured I would ever get close to saying "I'm almost done". Yes, the majority of the room is done :)

You got me thinking about what needs to be done so here is a quick run-down:

1) Finish crown and bass trap for rear wall - 2-3 eves
2) Rope lighting around perimeter of room - 2 hours
3) Star ceiling and rope lighting around coffered ceiling - 1 long week
4) Add 2nd pair of woofs for my IB sub - 3 eves (I'll have to slip this one in)
5) Velvet frame around screen - 2 eves
6) Wet Bar: Flooring, Cabinets, staining, and acoustical panels - 6-8 weeks


The wife is most excited about #6 so I need to step things up a bit. I may take off a few days here and there before the kids get out of school to minimize distractions. Thanks for making me compile a list -- a bit longer than I thought :rolleyes:

Hey Steve, looking really,really good!!!!!
The room is awesome!! truly an inspiration!!!
I'm interested in your speaker design, I'm thinking about building some mains and a center channel and maybe the surround too.
Can you tell me little bit more or point me to the design, and I would like to know how much on all the parts if is OK with you :) You can send me a PM or post it, its up to you.

Thanks :D :D
Cheers,
Rodny
Thanks Rodny!

My LCRs are a modified design of the ones you can find HERE (http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=15323&page=1&pp=35) (Summary Thread (http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=22393)). I designed (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8175115&&#post8175115) the rear surrounds (direct radiating) and side surrounds (bi-pole based on the Paradigm ADP 470s). All the crossovers were designed by Rick Craig of Selah Audio (http://www.selahaudio.com/). He does some great work and his pricing is VERY reasonable. You won't find any of these speakers on his website. Just shoot him an email and he can give you pricing. To build my 7 speaker system, it set me back about $1,800 for everything. You could shave off about 250-300 hundred more if you went with less expensive XO parts and did not put the high dollar felt inside (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9166492&&#post9166492) the speakers like I did. They easily sound like speakers that cost 4-6x this.

There is some time involved in DIY speakers but you will not be disapointed. Let me know if you have any other questions :)

Thanks again Steve!!!

I need to do some reading :eek:

Did you finish all the speakers?? :D

Thanks again Steve!!!

I need to do some reading :eek:

Did you finish all the speakers?? :D
Yes -- they are all done - with the exception of the veneer. Its on the list but I want to get some other things done in the room first.

Fronts (I actually have (3) of these but only (2) are in the pic):
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/LCR-DriversInstalled1.jpg


Side Surrounds:
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/DIYS-SideSurrDrivers1.JPG


Rear Surrounds
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/DIYS-RearSurrDrivers1.JPG

Your theater is awesome I hope I get to see it when I move to DFW, first I have to get a job out there so I can move.

I agree. If I am ever in Texas Steve - I want to take a look at it too! Mark (BritInVA) is going to be in Georgia on Thursday and is coming over to see my theater. I will get to do an interview with him on your IB set-up.

looking good Steve!! ;)

ps- I still haven't forgotten about your CDs...I'll send them just as soon as I can get my head above water :o

Steve,

Great work on the speakers. Room looks incredible!

Jay

Update...

I took Monday and Tuesday off this week to get some more work done on the HT. David -- thanks AGAIN for your help!

Rear Cabinet
-------------

All the trim is finally installed (I hate trim work) and I was also able to tackle the lower bass trap.

Here is a pic of the empty cavity before any insulation was added. The 2x4s you see are holding the weight of the curved cabinet above. The pink insulation is just normal R-13 to insulate the window cavity for heat/cold.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/RC-EmptyCavity.JPG


Here it is with a single layer of 5.5" cotton. This stuff is a royal pain in the a$$ to cut. I would say it tore rather than cut. Others have cut it with a table saw and skill saw. I was too lazy to carry it down to the garage to try either of these.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/RC-FilledWithCotton.JPG


Here is the panel that will cover everything. It is built out of 1x2 pine.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/RC-Panel.JPG


And the panel filled with 2" JM814. Bpape asked me to add both this and the cotton to the trap for more density. This will allow it to absorb a bit deeper.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/RC-PanelJM814.JPG


Finally, the completed panel in place. I attached it with some 2" brads. They only penetrated about 1/2" so it will be easy to pull it off if I ever need to gain access. The brads are countersunk into the wood behind the material so they are not visible.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/RC-PanelComplete.JPG

Update Continued…

I am now about to embark on the Star Ceiling. On Tuesday, David and I built the frame that will be hung up inside the coffered ceiling unit. I built it as (2) panels to make it easier to get them up into the ceiling. Each panel is roughly 5.5’ wide x 4’ tall.

Before saw hit wood, I made a drawing of what I needed to build. The large openings on the right will be filled with 2" JM814 insulation (OC703 equiv.). This will allow sound to be absorbed for 1st ceiling reflections. The other half is solid ½ MDF. I will also have some 5.5” cotton up there to allow it to act as another bass trap for the room (bpapes idea).
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SP-Diagram.jpg

Here is the final product built and ready to be hung for a dry-fit. I used 1x2” pine for the bracing and 1/4" masonite for everything else.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SP-PanelFront.JPG
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SP-PanelBack.JPG


Here is the dryfit. Everything fit very nicely the 1st time – yea! The panels rests on a 1/2" lip I have that goes all the way around the ceiling unit.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SP-Dryfit1.JPG
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SP-Dryfit2.JPG

More soon..

Your theater is awesome I hope I get to see it when I move to DFW, first I have to get a job out there so I can move. Thanks! Good luck on your job search. Get ready for some hot summers.

I agree. If I am ever in Texas Steve - I want to take a look at it too! Mark (BritInVA) is going to be in Georgia on Thursday and is coming over to see my theater. I will get to do an interview with him on your IB set-up. I'm jealous that you will be able to see Mark's theater in person. Hopfully I'll get up there sometime to see it as well. I think Mark liked the IB so much, he plans to do something -- once the wife stops giving him the honey-dos :D


looking good Steve!! ;)

ps- I still haven't forgotten about your CDs...I'll send them just as soon as I can get my head above water :o Thank you! No rush on the CDs :)


Steve,

Great work on the speakers. Room looks incredible!

Jay
Thanks Jay. I feel like the end is getting a lot closer.

I feel like the end is getting a lot closer.

Who are you kinding Steve?!? Your HT project will never end. ;) :D

Who are you kinding Steve?!? Your HT project will never end. ;) :D
You are so right :D

Steve - nice to see your finally getting on with that Star Ceiling. You were supposed to have finished before me - now how can I steal your ideas :D

Yes your right I got the bug for some more LFE. The IB Sub may not suit my situation but the TL Sub should. It is definatly on my to do list with a rework of screen area......but as you say to many honey dos to start that for quite some time :( . And as for "I feel like the end is getting a lot closer" all I can say is like most on this forum will it EVER be finished. There is always an upgrade or 2, or 3...... :eek:

Actualy its me visting Jasons HT. Got an overnight stay in Atlanta Thursday so taking oppertunity to see another great HT.

Cheers,
Mark

Hehehe. The way i figure it eventually they'll have to give this thread it's own sub-forum it's so full of information.

Anywho, get back to tinkering. You keep giving me new ideas. :)

The Summer's couldn't be as bad as they are where I am now, South Florida

The Summer's couldn't be as bad as they are where I am now, South Florida

Maybe not as humid, but when we get 30 plus days above 100°, humidity is the least of our worries. :)

Steve - nice to see your finally getting on with that Star Ceiling. You were supposed to have finished before me - now how can I steal your ideas :D

Yes your right I got the bug for some more LFE. The IB Sub may not suit my situation but the TL Sub should. It is definatly on my to do list with a rework of screen area......but as you say to many honey dos to start that for quite some time :( . And as for "I feel like the end is getting a lot closer" all I can say is like most on this forum will it EVER be finished. There is always an upgrade or 2, or 3...... :eek:

Actualy its me visting Jasons HT. Got an overnight stay in Atlanta Thursday so taking oppertunity to see another great HT.

Cheers,
Mark
Oops -- I knew you were going to Jason's -- sorry for the confusion :o Yes, that TL should do nicely in your room. If I didn't have the attic space behind my theater, I would have built a TL.

And upgrade v2 has already been mentioned by the wife. She did say we could wait a year or so before she wants it done.

On a side note: I was talking to her about the 1st ceiling reflections on Tuesday eve (she asked) and I could tell all she was only hearing "BLAA BLAA BLAA BLAA BLAA BLAA" -- like when the teacher talks to Charlie Brown. She said she was thinking about how much she liked the rear cabinet. Guess she has her priorities in the right place :D

Hehehe. The way i figure it eventually they'll have to give this thread it's own sub-forum it's so full of information.

Anywho, get back to tinkering. You keep giving me new ideas. :)
If that was the case, SandmanX/Ruben and Chinadog/Bud would have had one them while back ;) Thanks and glad I could help spread the knowledge around a bit (even though a lot ot it was stolen from other AVSers :o )

I plan to order the fibre today and will hopefully get finished on the star ceiling by the end of next week. I think I may take this "shipping delay" opportunity to slip in the other (2) 15"s woofs and build the velvet frame around my screen. Wet Bar follows that :)

Steve,

How do you plan to mount your velvet frame around your screen? I've a few ideas for my setup but am curious as to what you plan to do.

Thanks,
Mike

Steve,

How do you plan to mount your velvet frame around your screen? I've a few ideas for my setup but am curious as to what you plan to do.

Thanks,
Mike
You ask the hard questions don't you Mike?? ;)

Actually, I was thinking about velcro so the frame could be easily removed (if needed). The only issue is it would introduce a small gap between the frame and the screen material --- but it should not be much larger than 1/16". I may route out a small groove on the back to take care of that. I'm also considering 2" brads as an option. I would put in "just enough" to hold it on and then I could pry the frame off if I ever needed to do something to the screen material itself.

I do know that for the frame style, it will look like the Carada Criterion frame. I'll use some 1x4 pine or oak, double it up and then cut the angle with the table saw. I could use 2x4 lumber but I was concerned it would warp over time.

http://www.carada.com/projector-media-screens-home-office/Criterion-Series-Engineering-Drawing.jpg

What did you have in mind?

Hey Steve and Mike, I just made my velvet screen border the other night, but have not posted up the how to yet. I used the same method as THIS (http://www.smxscreen.com/forum/showthread.php?t=101) guy. Your frame is wood like mine, so this is extremely easy. You can scroll down to step 15 to see the velvet border how to.

It turned out amazing and if it had a logo on it you would think it was a factory build.

Ronnie

Hey Steve and Mike, I just made my velvet screen border the other night, but have not posted up the how to yet. I used the same method as THIS (http://www.smxscreen.com/forum/showthread.php?t=101) guy. Your frame is wood like mine, so this is extremely easy. You can scroll down to step 15 to see the velvet border how to.

It turned out amazing and if it had a logo on it you would think it was a factory build.

Ronnie
Ronnie -- thanks for the link. I think I looked at that months ago and forgot about it. How do you like the low-profile frame vs. something with some height (like the Carada frame)? I could go either way but thought the "higher profile" might look better in my 8" deep shadow box.

You ask the hard questions don't you Mike?? ;)


LOL! It wouldn't be me if I didn't :)


So my current thinking is to embed some rare earth magnets in the back of the frame and put in a couple of short dowels (or screws or who knows what) for support and alignment in the wall and have that along with the magnets hold the frame to the wall.

Although honestly now that I think about it 4-6 2" brads isn't a bad idea. Heck, a touch of hot glue and a couple of brads will probably hold it forever if I wanted. The only reason I want it slightly temporary is if I ever decide to upgrade my screen material (it's kind of budget stuff -- it works pretty good but if I upgrade my PJ I imagine I'll want better material).

Hmm, maybe if I go with the brads and glue I won't delay any longer and I can just hang it. Thanks for the idea.

Mike

Ronnie -- thanks for the link. I think I looked at that months ago and forgot about it. How do you like the low-profile frame vs. something with some height (like the Carada frame)? I could go either way but thought the "higher profile" might look better in my 8" deep shadow box.

By low profile im guessing you mean it doesn protrude out away from the screen much? I really like the look of the way it turned out. Its so black that from a few feet away, you really cant make out any profile anyway.

If I remember correctly, your screen fit perfectly flush into your shadow box right? I think it would look good either way, but since you have the shadow box, the thicker border might give you a cool stair step effect. if you have some scrap material laying around, wrap some wood in it and have the wife hold it up for you to test.

Actually I thought yours looked really nice without a border since it was integrated into that shadow box.

Ronnie

LOL! It wouldn't be me if I didn't :)

Mike
Let me know how it goes. I'm trying to decide what to do first -- IB enhancement or screen frame. The IB is winning because of my pure curiosity on the performance gain and overall room shaking ability :rolleyes: Then I can see how it compares to Ronnie dual 18" setup.

BTW -- my turbine sprayer rig came in today. I can't wait to use it on my wet bar cabinets. I'm probably going to use a dye-stain this time so I can apply the stain without any wiping. This should produce a pristine finish.

By low profile im guessing you mean it doesn protrude out away from the screen much? I really like the look of the way it turned out. Its so black that from a few feet away, you really cant make out any profile anyway.

Ronnie
Yes, that is what I meant. I think the stair-step effect may be cool. I'll try the mock-up and see what looks best. Easy to do. Thanks for the idea!

Steve,

Star ceiling panels is looking great already. Are you using 50w halogens there on a dimmer?

Cheers
Calvin

Let me know how it goes.

I will.

BTW -- my turbine sprayer rig came in today. I can't wait to use it on my wet bar cabinets. I'm probably going to use a dye-stain this time so I can apply the stain without any wiping. This should produce a pristine finish.

Sweet! Looking forward to how that goes.

Mike

Steve,

Star ceiling panels is looking great already. Are you using 50w halogens there on a dimmer?

Cheers
Calvin
Calvin,

Funny you should ask. I just got off the phone with Todd over at Fiber Optic Products (http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/). They are just about to release a LED light box with no motor and no fan (3-4 weeks). The are using 100% electronics to flicker the LEDs at 16 different speeds, 16 different patterns and different brightness levels. Also, the box will be about 1/2 the cost of the normal halogen style. The light output will be comparable to a 80-100w halogen bulb without the heat issues. No dimmer will be needed.

My original plan was to put it up in the attic above the theater but now I can put it above the star panels but still in the room. The Texas attics get pretty hot and this will eliminate that worry.

Starfield Update...

I finalized the pattern this afternoon and ordered the fiber. The star pattern incorporates the Northern and Southern winter sky. I bought the fiber from Fiber Optic Products (http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Endglow.htm). It has 3 different strand sizes in each bunch of 48 fibers for a more realistic look.

http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Egpack48a.jpg

Here is the model I used:
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/StarCeiling1.jpg


Here is what I plan to use as my template. The dots are a bit exaggerated so it will be easier to mark them on the panels with an overhead projector.

Large Black Dots: 1.5mm strand
Medium Red Dots: .75mm strand
Small Green Dots: .5mm strand

I will have a total of 192 points of light from (4) 48 strand cables.

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/StarsInGrid.jpg

More soon.

Calvin,

Funny you should ask. I just got off the phone with Todd over at Fiber Optic Products (http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/). They are just about to release a LED light box with no motor and no fan (3-4 weeks). The are using 100% electronics to flicker the LEDs at 16 different speeds, 16 different patterns and different brightness levels. Also, the box will be about 1/2 the cost of the normal halogen style. The light output will be comparable to a 80-100w halogen bulb without the heat issues. No dimmer will be needed.

My original plan was to put it up in the attic above the theater but now I can put it above the star panels but still in the room. The Texas attics get pretty hot and this will eliminate that worry.

Let us know how the LED light box works out for you. I definately plan on going that way. Love the idea of no fan, and the fibers should never yellow without the heat.

Let us know how the LED light box works out for you. I definately plan on going that way. Love the idea of no fan, and the fibers should never yellow without the heat.
Will do :)

Steve,
your star ceiling sub-project looks really good and I bet you have fun building it!
Waiting for more pics... :)

You mentioned a redesign of your side surround speaker frames - any details about that yet?

Awesome news! Steve - I am interested in your opinion of the star ceiling use during a movie. I have always wanted to add one to my room but worry that it would be distracting. Can you give your opinion of *level of distraction* once you have it installed and on during a movie?

Thanks Steve. Looks great and I can't wait to see the finished pics.


Calvin,

Funny you should ask. I just got off the phone with Todd over at Fiber Optic Products (http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/). They are just about to release a LED light box with no motor and no fan (3-4 weeks). The are using 100% electronics to flicker the LEDs at 16 different speeds, 16 different patterns and different brightness levels. Also, the box will be about 1/2 the cost of the normal halogen style. The light output will be comparable to a 80-100w halogen bulb without the heat issues. No dimmer will be needed.

My original plan was to put it up in the attic above the theater but now I can put it above the star panels but still in the room. The Texas attics get pretty hot and this will eliminate that worry.

Steve,
your star ceiling sub-project looks really good and I bet you have fun building it!
Waiting for more pics... :)

You mentioned a redesign of your side surround speaker frames - any details about that yet?
Thanks Mike. I'm pretty busy this week so not much will get done until early next week :( Kind of a bummer since I felt like I was in "the groove".

On the frames, I liked that you used that thin aluminum for the corners. I built the columns one way and decided to change things mid-stream (no surprise there). So the design I initially wanted to use did not pan out as well. A modified version of your method may work out quite well. BUT -- this won't get done until I complete the star ceiling and screen frame. What I have now works but it just does not look as tight was I wanted. Thanks again for the idea.

Awesome news! Steve - I am interested in your opinion of the star ceiling use during a movie. I have always wanted to add one to my room but worry that it would be distracting. Can you give your opinion of *level of distraction* once you have it installed and on during a movie?

Thanks Steve. Looks great and I can't wait to see the finished pics.
I think that it is high enough that it should not be distracting. However, I will make sure and report back my findings. The fiber should be here early next week but the new lightbox may be a bit delayed. I plan to get it completed and installed even without the lightbox. Plugging that in once it arrives will be quick. I think this will be a crowd stopper when entering the room -- high "cool" factor IMO :)

Looking good !!

Looking good !!
Thanks Ivan. I can't wait to see how your surrounds turn out once you get the veneer applied.

Thanks Ivan. I can't wait to see how your surrounds turn out once you get the veneer applied.

Yea...I got to take a day off to swing by my harwood supplier :rolleyes: .
I have been miserably slacking off lately. ;)

Yea...I got to take a day off to swing by my harwood supplier :rolleyes: .
I have been miserably slacking off lately. ;)
No worries. We've all been there :)

Hmm -- get some transtint dye and we can spray them with my new rig :cool:

No worries. We've all been there :)

Hmm -- get some transtint dye and we can spray them with my new rig :cool:

You got the turbine ? Awesome !! Im not using Transtint though. My finishing schedule is a black wipe on pigment stain, sealer, light pore filler, seal, and black lacquer. Then dull it with a topcoat of a low sheen urethane. I have two new spray guns, from Homestead, I want to use. :D

You got the turbine ? Awesome !! Im not using Transtint though. My finishing schedule is a black wipe on pigment stain, sealer, light pore filler, seal, and black lacquer. Then dull it with a topcoat of a low sheen urethane. I have two new spray guns, from Homestead, I want to use. :D
Yep -- I bought the turbine from Homestead. I am looking for any reason to use it and don't have anything at the moment. Please be sure to detail your staining process on your speaker thread.

Update….

Hey guys, I have a little more to share with you :)

Star Ceiling – David and I made some nice progress last night. I have all the holes marked and drilled for the fiber stars. We got them covered with black speaker cloth from JoAnnes and they look great (very black stuff). I received the fiber a few days back and plan to get that installed this week. I’m still waiting for the new LED light unit (still under development). It will probably be a few more weeks :(

Here is the back of rear piece. If you look closely, you can see the black, red and green marks to dictate location and which fiber size to use.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SP-BackPieceHolesMarked.JPG


Here is the back of the front piece. I have (3) pieces of JM814 cut perfectly to size with a nice snug fit. All the fiber holes are marked. I did some testing and with a simple coat hanger, I can easily punch the holes (starting from the ceiling side) and fish through the fiber.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SP-FrontPieceHolesMarked.JPG


Screen Frame – I have my DIY screen frame well on its way. It is made of (2) pieces of 1x4 pine glued together. I used the pine vs. normal 2x4 lumber to get a straighter piece of wood that is less likely to warp over time. After the glue dried overnight, I cut a 45deg angle with my table saw. The cuts turned out very smooth (the pine cuts a lot easier than a normal 2x4 because there is little to no moisture in the wood). What’s left is to miter them down to size and cover them with fabric. The boards are 10’ long x 3.5” wide – glad the ceiling in my garage is just over 10’
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/ScreenFrame-Edge1.JPG
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/ScreenFrame-Edge2.JPG
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/ScreenFrame-WedgeCut.JPG

Here is a closeup of the wedge cut. You can see where the (2) pieces of 1x4 pine were glued together.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/ScreenFrame-WedgeCut2.JPG

More soon..

I don't remember if you have some of Ruben's black Fideleo Velvet to cover that frame with but, if you don't, and don't want to spend that much - try some black felt from Joanns. That's what I used and it works well. Much blacker than black GOM.

I don't remember if you have some of Ruben's black Fideleo Velvet to cover that frame with but, if you don't, and don't want to spend that much - try some black felt from Joanns. That's what I used and it works well. Much blacker than black GOM.
I actually do have the black Fideleo Velvet. I bought it at Joanns 3-4 months back with a 50% off coupon. It made the price a lot more attractive.

Did you affix yours with Spray-glue or just pull it tight and staple on the back. I'm considering using both techniques to be sure it stays in place.

Did you affix yours with Spray-glue or just pull it tight and staple on the back. I'm considering using both techniques to be sure it stays in place.

Steve - on my frame I have stretched and stapled the velvet on the back of the frame. It looks fine but I found out that when I do clean it with the vac I get some wrinkles which can be flattened out again without problems. But I would spray-glue and staple it the next time I make a screen frame.... :rolleyes:

Steve - on my frame I have stretched and stapled the velvet on the back of the frame. It looks fine but I found out that when I do clean it with the vac I get some wrinkles which can be flattened out again without problems. But I would spray-glue and staple it the next time I make a screen frame.... :rolleyes:
Mike,

Thanks for the tip! I'll plan on doing both as you suggested.

Good choice of saw blade there Steve. I love the red diablo! Takes the saying hot knife through butter to a whole new level.

Looking good man. Can't wait to see some more pics.

Star Ceiling Update…

I was able to get the rear panel threaded last night. It was actually a very simple process but did take some patience and a few hours of my time. I still need to hot glue with the low-temp gun and trim the fiber down. I added a total of 96 fibers last night and have 96 more to go.

Rear View
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/StarCeiling-RearPlanelThreaded1.JPG

Front View (what a mess)
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/StarCeiling-RearPlanelThreaded2.JPG

Good choice of saw blade there Steve. I love the red diablo! Takes the saying hot knife through butter to a whole new level.

Looking good man. Can't wait to see some more pics.
Jason,

Yes -- a great blade. I ruined the "stock" Porter-Cable blade when I cut that hardyboard siding for my can light fireproof light boxes. It dulled it so much, I'm not sure it could even cut butter now :D

And as requested, I just posted more pics :)

Swithey, I have a couple of questions on your star panels, I am in the middle of building some for my theater right now.

Do you find when poking the fiber through the holes that the fabric wants to stretch? I used spray glue and staples to attach the fabric, but still whenever I poke a fiber through, it stretches, and sometimes creates a tiny dimple in the fabric.

Where the panels meet, are you going to have any fibers going through the framing of the panels? I got two panels up last night, and while I tried to angle some fibers through the edges, there is still a pretty obvious space where there are not any stars where the two panels meet...

Jason,

Yes -- a great blade. I ruined the "stock" Porter-Cable blade when I cut that hardyboard siding for my can light fireproof light boxes. It dulled it so much, I'm not sure it could even cut butter now :D

And as requested, I just posted more pics :)


Well Steve you're going to dull the Freud blade quicker than usual also. :( That is crosscut blade you're using for ripping. You need to get a 24 teeth blade for ripping only or a 40 teeth combination blade. Make sure it is a full kerf blade, it flexes less than a thin kerf. :)

I actually do have the black Fideleo Velvet. I bought it at Joanns 3-4 months back with a 50% off coupon. It made the price a lot more attractive.

Did you affix yours with Spray-glue or just pull it tight and staple on the back. I'm considering using both techniques to be sure it stays in place.

I just stapled my felt and it stays tight no problem. But its a different animal than the velvet.

Swithey, I have a couple of questions on your star panels, I am in the middle of building some for my theater right now.

Do you find when poking the fiber through the holes that the fabric wants to stretch? I used spray glue and staples to attach the fabric, but still whenever I poke a fiber through, it stretches, and sometimes creates a tiny dimple in the fabric.

Where the panels meet, are you going to have any fibers going through the framing of the panels? I got two panels up last night, and while I tried to angle some fibers through the edges, there is still a pretty obvious space where there are not any stars where the two panels meet...
I pulled the stetchy speaker fabric pretty tightly before I stapled it to the sides. I did not use any spray glue on mine since the other panel cannot be sprayed because of the insulation sitting 1/4" up from the face. It stretches like hosiery and bounces right back after the fiber is poked through. I just tap it a bit around the fiber and it is smooth as it was before.

I would think that with the glue, the fabric would not have been stretched as tightly -- which may be why it puckers more easily?

As for the seam -- I tried to space out the stars to camoflauge the "blank area" so the seam would not be too noticeable. We'll see how it goes when I get it hooked up to a light. It just may be a few weeks since I do not have my light box yet.

Well Steve you're going to dull the Freud blade quicker than usual also. :( That is crosscut blade you're using for ripping. You need to get a 24 teeth blade for ripping only or a 40 teeth combination blade. Make sure it is a full kerf blade, it flexes less than a thin kerf. :)
Doh! Thanks for letting me know -- guess I was not paying enough attention to remember to change the blade before I made the cut :o It's all "head-down, tail-up" work right now :D

Doh! Thanks for letting me know -- guess I was not paying enough attention to remember to change the blade before I made the cut :o It's all "head-down, tail-up" work right now :D


O.K. I forgive you. ;)

I just stapled my felt and it stays tight no problem. But its a different animal than the velvet.
Thanks ebr. I'll plan on glue + staple just-in-case :)

Hi Steve,

Star Ceiling is coming along fine, as i can see. Again: great work!!
The LED light source for the fibers really is a great idea. Hope they'll have it quickly enough...

Best,

Hi Steve,

Star Ceiling is coming along fine, as i can see. Again: great work!!
The LED light source for the fibers really is a great idea. Hope they'll have it quickly enough...

Best,
Thanks Den. I'll keep you posed on the LED light box.

Update..

This weekend David and I were able to wrap-up a few items on the 'ole HT ToDo list.

- Fiber Optic Star Ceiling - hung and waiting for LED light unit

- Blue rope lighting installed

- Velvet Screen Frame - DONE! This thing looks unbelievable. 3.5" deep x 1.5" thick with a 45deg angle (just like the Carada and Stewart screen frames).
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/ScreenFrame-Corner.jpg


I took a few panoramic pics to show off the room a bit. They aren't perfect but they will give you the best view of the room as it stands now.

Front
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Front-Final.jpg


Rear
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/Rear-Final.jpg
NOTE -- the little black box on the front right is an air purifier. It works well to remove the dust and any musty smell from the room.

Next on the list is the Wet Bar/Concession Area.

WOW. Great setup. Congratulations.

Very Nice !!!

my dream ht wow! very nice.

AWESOME steve!! how did you do those shots by the way?

Steve,

great job - the blue rope light gives your room the coolness factor now! :cool:
Clean work on the frame - can't wait to see your star ceiling in action.

Well - and of course I like the way you shot the panorama pics, did you follow my little guide how to make these pics? :D

BTW: Is that Apollo 13 screenshot from SD or HD DVD?

Awesome job Steve!

So, is this new LED light unit out yet? I don't suppose you have a link?

Steve awesome job the theater turned out nice!

Awesome work steve, just awesome !!

Very nice!

Steve - that looks fantastic. Like a magazine spread...

Looks terrific Steve :D very nicely done.

Wow, phenomenal work Steve. It's much easier to get an idea of all of the pieces and parts when it's put together in a panoramic representation like that. Very cool.. awesome job, attention to detail, and keep up the great work!

Steve,

Your room is absolutely amazing!! What's the response when you show it to friends and family? (That's my favorite part of having people over -- hearing their response to the room and the design elements, etc.)

Bet you have a big kid smile on your face every time you take someone down there and you get to hear their reaction for the first time!

Mike

Steve, I'm not going to pile on and tell you what a great job you've done - I'm going to whine about you not finishing yours earlier so I could have poached some of your ideas ;)

Seriously though, that is something to be very, very proud of. Your craftsmanship is impeccable and the result is simply stunning.

Incredible job. Wish I had half the talent.

Todd

WOW. Great setup. Congratulations. Very Nice !!! my dream ht wow! very nice. Awesome job Steve! Steve awesome job the theater turned out nice! Awesome work steve, just awesome !! Very nice! Steve - that looks fantastic. Like a magazine spread... Looks terrific Steve :D very nicely done. Wow, phenomenal work Steve. It's much easier to get an idea of all of the pieces and parts when it's put together in a panoramic representation like that. Very cool.. awesome job, attention to detail, and keep up the great work!
Thank You, Thank You and Thank You! It really means a lot to me that you guys like the look of the room :) It has been a long time coming and the wife finally has a smile on her face since I’ll be starting the bar soon.

AWESOME steve!! how did you do those shots by the way?
Thanks :)

I took Zinema’s advice on this one. I setup a tripod in the back center of the room and started taking pics from the left side of the room. I overlapped the pics about 20-30%. I set my ISO at 100 and had the shutter stay open for 1.5 seconds. No flash was used and lights were at a med-low level. I took about 30-40 pics (about 5 pass from left to right at different levels). I used Autostitch (http://www.cs.ubc.ca/~mbrown/autostitch/autostitch.html) to put them together. The ”free” unregistered version of the program does everything you need to create pics like this.

Steve,

great job - the blue rope light gives your room the coolness factor now! :cool:
Clean work on the frame - can't wait to see your star ceiling in action.

Well - and of course I like the way you shot the panorama pics, did you follow my little guide how to make these pics? :D

BTW: Is that Apollo 13 screenshot from SD or HD DVD?
Thank you!

The light does make a cool impact. I think the wife did not like the idea much until I got it added to the room. The actually color against the ceiling color casts more of an aqua blue vs. the blue you see in the pic. I “may” replace the blue with frosted white. The overall color should still be blue since the ceiling is blue. I have a small section of white I plan to try before I make the change (and spend the $100 :( )

And yes (as stated above), I did follow your instructions -- thanks. I wanted to try another technique sometime this week. This time instead of swinging the camera from a single location, I want to try moving the camera position from left to right. This should eliminate the curved look of the pic. I just do not know how autostitch will do with the images. I love digital pics because it does not cost anything to give it a try :)

And it is Apollo 13 but only in SD format. I want to retake the pic with the light off so I can superimpose the “dark room” pic and have an image that does not look washed out like it is now. I just ran out of battery charge on my camera last night or I would have tried both ideas last night. I'm borrowing a friends Xbox 360 HD-DVD drive and plan to test out some HD material (Apollo 13 being one at the top of the list). I’ve seen HD material on my projector and was blown away.

Steve,

Your room is absolutely amazing!! What's the response when you show it to friends and family? (That's my favorite part of having people over -- hearing their response to the room and the design elements, etc.)

Bet you have a big kid smile on your face every time you take someone down there and you get to hear their reaction for the first time!

Mike
Thanks for the kind words.

Quite honestly, everyone that sets foot in the room is always floored. Once I tell them I did it myself, they almost fall over. It does make me smile when people like the way it has turned out. Too bad we might be selling the house and I’ll need to do it all over again ;)

Steve, I'm not going to pile on and tell you what a great job you've done - I'm going to whine about you not finishing yours earlier so I could have poached some of your ideas ;)

Seriously though, that is something to be very, very proud of. Your craftsmanship is impeccable and the result is simply stunning.
You don’t know how many times I’ve said that to myself over the course of my build. This is one reason mine has taken so long. I kept changing things along the way because I saw someone else’s idea and just “had” to do it :D

BTW – Your Theater looks great! Talk about attention to detail.

Incredible job. Wish I had half the talent.

Todd
Thanks. My Dad was an Mechanical Engineer from Texas A&M (please no Aggie jokes ;) ). We built things together all the time. But.. this room is definitely the largest and most challenging project I've ever taken on (as I'm sure this is true for most of the guys building their HTs). Its been a long road but I am happy things are finally wrapping up. Will I ever be done? -- the wife hopes so but she has already mentioned some v2 items she wants me to change in the room. Oh well, guess the playhouse in the backyard will need to wait another summer :D

You don’t know how many times I’ve said that to myself over the course of my build. This is one reason mine has taken so long. I kept changing things along the way because I saw someone else’s idea and just “had” to do it :D

BTW – Your Theater looks great! Talk about attention to detail.Thanks. But this trumps any of my attention to detail. Any tips on how to get the mitered corners nice and tight like that? I'm going to be doing pretty much the same thing. Nice 15 deg. tilt on the SMX too btw ;)

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/ScreenFrame-Corner.jpg

Thanks. But this trumps any of my attention to detail. Any tips on how to get the mitered corners nice and tight like that? I'm going to be doing pretty much the same thing. Nice 15 deg. tilt on the SMX too btw ;)
Actually because of the 45deg angle, the fabric wrapped quite easily around the edge. I just used staples to secure it to the sides, hit the staples with a hammer to make sure they were flat with the surface of the wood and trimmed any excess material with a blade. One note -- DO NOT USE SPRAY GLUE. We tried it with and without and without won. When using the glue, you end up from small air-puckers which are hard to remove. It gets plenty tight without the glue (it has some stretch) and is easy to fix errors if you make them.

Yep, tilted the SMX as much as I could. That material performs very well -- so happy I bought it! I especially love the viewing cone because I can stand directly to the side of the screen and it is as bright as it is when standing directly in front of the screen.

Hey!

I just noticed you stole my Apollo 13 screen image... ;)

http://www.reedsplace.com/Theater/compangle1wscrnsm.jpg

Thank you!

The light does make a cool impact. I think the wife did not like the idea much until I got it added to the room. The actually color against the ceiling color casts more of an aqua blue vs. the blue you see in the pic. I “may” replace the blue with frosted white. The overall color should still be blue since the ceiling is blue. I have a small section of white I plan to try before I make the change (and spend the $100 :( )


Dude, I just ordered my blue rope light today. The frosted white on the blue ceiling will actually make it look more grey on lower levels.

Came out great, Steve. You oughta be proud.

Bud

Dude, I just ordered my blue rope light today. The frosted white on the blue ceiling will actually make it look more grey on lower levels.

Came out great, Steve. You oughta be proud.

Bud

Hey Steve & Bud,

I've been thinking blue led light for my ceiling too. Would a black ceiling work well with the blue led? Or should I stick to a dark blue?

BTW - Awesome HT Steve.

Ed

Hey!

I just noticed you stole my Apollo 13 screen image... ;)
Yep -- you gave me the idea for the photo. Thanks for the inspiration :D

Hey Steve & Bud,

I've been thinking blue led light for my ceiling too. Would a black ceiling work well with the blue led? Or should I stick to a dark blue?

BTW - Awesome HT Steve.

Ed

From the pictures of Ruben's blue on black, looks pretty awesome, but think you could go either way. Mine is not dark, dark blue, more of a medium blue, so should be interesting. I'm going to go star ceiling at some point using black panels, so I'll get away from the blue then.

Bud

I've been thinking blue led light for my ceiling too. Would a black ceiling work well with the blue led? Or should I stick to a dark blue?

I have also a blue rope light with a black (dark grey) ceiling - looks awesome! :cool:
Have a look at my thread - posted some pics today where you can see parts of the rope light in action.

Steve - sorry to hijack your thread! :D

It has been a long time coming and the wife finally has a smile on her face since I’ll be starting the bar soon.

Careful, if your wife sees this, she may slap you because you are making her out to be a lush.... :p

And yes (as stated above), I did follow your instructions -- thanks. I wanted to try another technique sometime this week. This time instead of swinging the camera from a single location, I want to try moving the camera position from left to right. This should eliminate the curved look of the pic. I just do not know how autostitch will do with the images. I love digital pics because it does not cost anything to give it a try

Steve, I am not sure how well the technique will work as AutoStitch is pretty picky about the images it stitches together. I was taking some pics of our yard this weekend (we re-did a large portion of our backyard) and I took a pic of one area and started to take a step, remembered I wanted to stitch the images together and tried to step back to where I was and move over to the next area and it didn't work. I wasn't close enough to the same place. One exception I have had is that when I am taking the pics, I take one, then pivot my whole body around my torso for the next shot. If I want to pan up or down to get a taller stitched image, I pivot around the same place and it always goes together fine. Try this and see what happens as if anything else, it will create a larger radius to base the images off of which may get rid of some of the curved look.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v612/SVonhof/yard_pano_4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v612/SVonhof/yard_pano_5.jpg

From the pictures of Ruben's blue on black, looks pretty awesome, but think you could go either way. Mine is not dark, dark blue, more of a medium blue, so should be interesting. I'm going to go star ceiling at some point using blank panels, so I'll get away from the blue then.

Bud
I'm curious about how it will look as well. I'll try out this 6' short piece of clear I have to see how it looks. I should be able to take a pic showing both colors at the same time.

BTW Bud -- good to hear from you again. I thought you got stuck in "Job Hell" since I had not seen much activity on your thread ;)

I have also a blue rope light with a black (dark grey) ceiling - looks awesome! :cool:
Have a look at my thread - posted some pics today where you can see parts of the rope light in action.

Steve - sorry to hijack your thread! :D
Your blue looks brighter blue than mine. Maybe it is my rope lighting that is causing the color shift to aqua. I do prefer the blue but if I get the same result with clear/frosted -- I'll be fine :)

Your blue looks brighter blue than mine. Maybe it is my rope lighting that is causing the color shift to aqua. I do prefer the blue but if I get the same result with clear/frosted -- I'll be fine :)
In my last pics I did not dim the rope light - it was set to 100%. That's maybe why it looks so deep blue there...
Under normal movie viewing conditions I have dimmed it down at ~30% - then it is hardly to notice at bright scenes but blends in very nice as bias light at dark/night scenes.
When taking a picture with long exposure time (>= 1 second) it looks more blue then in reality...

Careful, if your wife sees this, she may slap you because you are making her out to be a lush.... :p
Wow -- never thought about that ;) I think her biggest incentive for the bar is to reduce or eliminate her need to go downstairs for things. The plan will be to have most of what we need right in the room and/or bring up what is needed in the beginning and put on the counter. It's all about convenience and making sure the travel time is short so the beer does not get above 33deg :D


Steve, I am not sure how well the technique will work as AutoStitch is pretty picky about the images it stitches together. I was taking some pics of our yard this weekend (we re-did a large portion of our backyard) and I took a pic of one area and started to take a step, remembered I wanted to stitch the images together and tried to step back to where I was and move over to the next area and it didn't work. I wasn't close enough to the same place. One exception I have had is that when I am taking the pics, I take one, then pivot my whole body around my torso for the next shot. If I want to pan up or down to get a taller stitched image, I pivot around the same place and it always goes together fine. Try this and see what happens as if anything else, it will create a larger radius to base the images off of which may get rid of some of the curved look.

I follow you. I started a test last night but ran out of time. I'll see about trying a few techniques tonight.

BTW -- Great looking backyard. Those shrubs are going to fill in nicely over the next few years and give you some pretty scenery. We planted a bunch of trees in our backyard about 3 years ago and they are really starting to take off. I have plans to landscape the perimeter (like you did) either this or next summer.

Steve, I am not sure how well the technique will work as AutoStitch is pretty picky about the images it stitches together. I was taking some pics of our yard this weekend (we re-did a large portion of our backyard) and I took a pic of one area and started to take a step, remembered I wanted to stitch the images together and tried to step back to where I was and move over to the next area and it didn't work. I wasn't close enough to the same place. One exception I have had is that when I am taking the pics, I take one, then pivot my whole body around my torso for the next shot. If I want to pan up or down to get a taller stitched image, I pivot around the same place and it always goes together fine. Try this and see what happens as if anything else, it will create a larger radius to base the images off of which may get rid of some of the curved look.
The used algorithms in autostitch work best when the images have the same exact origin. So if you pan or tilt the camera the pivot would be ideally in the center of the CCD sensor of your camera. The geometric distortion will get larger the closer the objects are you are going to photograph - so moving along the room will not work with autostitch. :(
I guess we have to live with the "fisheye" look of our rooms when we do panorama shots - but they still look great and give a very impressive view of the room! :D

The used algorithms in autostitch work best when the images have the same exact origin. So if you pan or tilt the camera the pivot would be ideally in the center of the CCD sensor of your camera. The geometric distortion will get larger the closer the objects are you are going to photograph - so moving along the room will not work with autostitch. :(
I guess we have to live with the "fisheye" look of our rooms when we do panorama shots - but they still look great and give a very impressive view of the room! :D
Bummer on that. Thanks for looking into it. I need to find someone with a wide angle lens and a good SLR camera :)

BTW Bud -- good to hear from you again. I thought you got stuck in "Job Hell" since I had not seen much activity on your thread ;)

Steve, thanks. I wouldn't categorize it as hell, just been very busy with work. We're about to go Beta (likely Friday) with a new release of CNN (.com). We're getting ready for the presidential debates this weekend as well. I've got some other home things I've got to get done before moving on, including staining my deck. The rope light was a no brainer though. I should have that installed probably by next weekend.

Bud

So, is this new LED light unit out yet? I don't suppose you have a link?
Sorry -- I missed responding to your post :o

It is not out yet and nothing on the website about it. They told me 2-3 weeks. I will be buying it from THIS (http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/) place. This is the same place I bought my fiber. He said cost will be $100 or less.

Sorry -- I missed responding to your post :o

It is not out yet and nothing on the website about it. They told me 2-3 weeks. I will be buying it from THIS (http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/) place. This is the same place I bought my fiber. He said cost will be $100 or less.

No problem, I figured you would post an update anyways, I think there are a couple of us interested in this...

The unit you are talking about is different than this (http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/danise/cart.pl?db=stuff.dat&category=Multiled) one, right?

No problem, I figured you would post an update anyways, I think there are a couple of us interested in this...

The unit you are talking about is different than this (http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/danise/cart.pl?db=stuff.dat&category=Multiled) one, right?
Very similar to this one but can handle more fibers and has more flexibility on speed and intensity. He said that he sells a bunch of the one you linked but has had some "requests" for improvements. This new unit will incorporate the improvements -- mainly to produce a more realistic flicker of the stars and have user selectable speed control.

I'm curious about how it will look as well. I'll try out this 6' short piece of clear I have to see how it looks. I should be able to take a pic showing both colors at the same time.

BTW Bud -- good to hear from you again. I thought you got stuck in "Job Hell" since I had not seen much activity on your thread ;)

Just FYI - I switched from a frosted white rope to a blue one and really like the blue one better. Even with my deep blue ceiling, the frosted white looked yellow.

Just FYI - I switched from a frosted white rope to a blue one and really like the blue one better. Even with my deep blue ceiling, the frosted white looked yellow.
Hmm - I have the exact color on my ceiling that you have on your ceiling. Where did you buy your blue rope light? Maybe the one I bought just casts the aqua color vs. the cool blue I was looking for.

I just got mine at Lowes. I'm not sure how I'd characterize the light it throws except that it is blue instead of yellow and I like it better.

I just got mine at Lowes. I'm not sure how I'd characterize the light it throws except that it is blue instead of yellow and I like it better.
I might stop by and buy a small piece to see how the color compares. Thanks.

I just got mine at Lowes. I'm not sure how I'd characterize the light it throws except that it is blue instead of yellow and I like it better.

Eric, is your rope light LED or incandescent based? Many are regular small bulbs but there are newer ones out with LED that will look much different because of how LED works.

BTW -- Great looking backyard. Those shrubs are going to fill in nicely over the next few years and give you some pretty scenery. We planted a bunch of trees in our backyard about 3 years ago and they are really starting to take off. I have plans to landscape the perimeter (like you did) either this or next summer.

Thanks, one thing we really wanted to do was not OVER-DO it. My parents went hog wild and have a heck of a time keeping up with it. We have some plants that will get really big if we allow them to, but will make sure they are under control at least until the trees really start to pick up and take off. Don't want all the plants towering over the trees!

Actually because of the 45deg angle, the fabric wrapped quite easily around the edge. I just used staples to secure it to the sides, hit the staples with a hammer to make sure they were flat with the surface of the wood and trimmed any excess material with a blade. One note -- DO NOT USE SPRAY GLUE. We tried it with and without and without won. When using the glue, you end up from small air-puckers which are hard to remove. It gets plenty tight without the glue (it has some stretch) and is easy to fix errors if you make them.


Good to know. Thanks for the tip, I was going to spray it and now I know better. Yeah, I could imagine little air pockets would be cause for some pretty unkind words ;)

Mike

Good to know. Thanks for the tip, I was going to spray it and now I know better. Yeah, I could imagine little air pockets would be cause for some pretty unkind words ;)

Mike
And Mike -- I ended up securing the frame with long screws in from the back and through the front of the actual screen frame and then into the back of the black velvet exterior frame (careful not to poke through the other side of course). I used 3 across the top and bottom and 2 on each side -- very secure. This allows me to easily remove the frame if ever needed with minimal impact to the screen material.

That theater is so beautiful! Great job!

And enjoy the demos!

Victor

That theater is so beautiful! Great job!

And enjoy the demos!

Victor
Thanks Victor! And your Demo DVDs do well in the room :)

Hey Steve,

Been a while since I checked in. Great progress. You look like you have tightened your skills in the process. I am curious if you got the Accuspray HVLP rig. I bought a 4 stage turbine rig and like it. Spraying shelac and lacquer is cake.

Randy

Hey Steve,

Been a while since I checked in. Great progress. You look like you have tightened your skills in the process. I am curious if you got the Accuspray HVLP rig. I bought a 4 stage turbine rig and like it. Spraying shelac and lacquer is cake.

Randy
Randy,

Yes, the room is nearly in a "showroom" state -- thanks for the kudos. And my skills in woodworking and staining have definitely become more refined over the course of this project.

Yes, I just purchased the Accuspray 23K Series Turbine sprayer. It is a 3-stage unit. I have not used mine yet but should be once I get the wet bar cabinets built. I'm in the design phase but plan to get started soon.

Your 4-stage sounds very nice! Did you get the Accuspray 240K or 240c?

EDIT: I took another look at your website and that front cabinet looks awesome! Your woodworking skills shine on this project :) Did you spray on the stain?? What products did you use? What kind of wood did you use (Adler, Cherry, ???)?

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/rlowe-frontcabinet.jpg http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/rlowe-frontcabinet2.jpg

Looks great!

Looks great!
Thank you very much :)

Steve,

After all of this time, do you have any regrets on your speakers? What would you do differently (drivers, XO, construction) if you were going to do it again?

After talking to Bryan Pape about my speaker options last weekend, I'm pumped to build my own. I'm fine at the woodworking part, but the design/XO is black magic to me. I didn't realize you could 'outsource' that part. He pointed me to your thread and Rick Craig.

I'm basically looking to replicate your speaker design with three exceptions:

1) Inverting the fronts, tweeter on the bottom
2) No curved sides and no plans to veneer
3) 2 HSU vtf3mk3 subs instead of IB (can't be waking up the kids)

I need to invert (or go mid tweeter) because Bryan wants my front sub at the bottom center behind the screen. A normal full height speaker on top of that would put the tweeter too high.

I saw your pointer to the Dayton thread in post 2046. I'm reading there now. Once I'm more up to speed I may PM you to get more info on the drivers and crossover components you used and/or recommend.

Thanks for the inspiration!

use the links in post 2046. The long thread on HTGUIDE.com covers the floor standing speakers with a few crossover choices. Also a different center channel. Swithey just decided to have 3 identical on the front. Also, the original designs were not to have curved sides on that thread, so there is allot of info there. There are a few messages in that long thread about people wanting to invert the speakers (tweets on bottom), but they would need different crossovers designed.

Also earlied in the thread, the center was discussed and someone made LCR's out of just the center (the plans for the LR's were not released yet), may lower the tweeter that way.

Or use the original planned center which is in a wmtw format. (horizontal with woofers to the sides, and the mid and tweet in the center stacked on each other)

I plan on building these too, no curves, and the horizontal center, but may look into haveing Rick make some crossovers for surrounds like SWithey did.

Chia,
I'm planning on identical LCR. I'm going with a wide SMX screen with all three speakers behind. I don't like the idea of a horizontal center if I can avoid it. Plus it's easier to build three of the same than 2 and 1.

I plan on custom crossovers from Rick, but haven't talked to him yet. I'm still trying to read enough to be able to talk semi-intelligently about the topic!

Thanks for the tips.

Steve,

After all of this time, do you have any regrets on your speakers? What would you do differently (drivers, XO, construction) if you were going to do it again?

After talking to Bryan Pape about my speaker options last weekend, I'm pumped to build my own. I'm fine at the woodworking part, but the design/XO is black magic to me. I didn't realize you could 'outsource' that part. He pointed me to your thread and Rick Craig.

I'm basically looking to replicate your speaker design with three exceptions:

1) Inverting the fronts, tweeter on the bottom
2) No curved sides and no plans to veneer
3) 2 HSU vtf3mk3 subs instead of IB (can't be waking up the kids)

I need to invert (or go mid tweeter) because Bryan wants my front sub at the bottom center behind the screen. A normal full height speaker on top of that would put the tweeter too high.

I saw your pointer to the Dayton thread in post 2046. I'm reading there now. Once I'm more up to speed I may PM you to get more info on the drivers and crossover components you used and/or recommend.

Thanks for the inspiration!
No regrets at all about the speakers. I love them! If you go with a square design over the curved, it will save you about 30% of the work :)

As far as the speaker change-up as you described above, it would change things with the XO (especially with the tweet on the bottom) -- as mentioned above. Rick Craig can design whatever you want for a very reasonable fee. He will supply you with an assembled XO so you just need to hook the wires to the drivers and listen. --AND since your design is a modified version of the Dayton towers, he usually charges a reduced cost to make the adjustments.

You should be very happy with this HSUs. A friend of mind has the VTF3 MK2 and it sounded very nice in his room. One thing you might consider is building a TL sub (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9469627&&#post9469627). Check out Zinema's/Mikes HT -- as he built one that performs quite well. You could outfit one with (2) Soundsplinter 15" woofs (http://www.soundsplinter.com/rlp15_subwoofer_information.html), a Behringer EP1500 (http://www.zzounds.com/item--BEHEP1500) amp (1400watts bridged) and EQ (http://www.zzounds.com/item--BEHDSP1124P) for about $865 + wood. It is a long coffin shaped ported sub that can get nice results down to about 15/16hz with probably better performance than the HSUs at a reduced cost.

Feel free to PM :)

One thing you might consider is building a TL sub (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9469627&&#post9469627).

Aargh! More to read! :rolleyes:

I would love to build my own sub (which means in the end I probably will). It did seem kind of discordant to build my own speakers and buy a sub. Part of me was holding off on it to try and allow this theater to actually get finished someday.

My wife would love the idea. She doesn't want my HT project to end. She thinks that once it's done I'll need another project to keep me busy and I'll start tearing up some other part of the house.

I've considered sealing off the area behind my front wall (angled attic space similar to yours) to allow an IB sub that isn't ported outside or into the rest of the attic. I could probably get about 200 cu ft back there.

I'll read up on it and talk to Bryan. I know he wanted two subs (one front/one back). Forunately, I have lots of space behind the second row. I'll just build two TL subs! Who needs butt kickers, just put a 10' wide sub behind the seats.

You'll love building the HT, speakers and sub! Bryan likes lots of bass (smooth and strong) and now I know why. It is fun to have the chest pounding pressure and no buttkickers :D

Oh and "if" you want to do a large ported IB "type" setup, there is one guy that did do it. Check out Rodny's Thread (http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/soundsplinter/3871-ib-makeover-5.html#post32457). Oh yes -- more reading :p

So-- you have lots of options :eek: :D

So-- you have lots of options :eek: :D
And yet another option... you can dump problematic passive xovers completely for not a lot of money. I'm using 3 7 channel Outlaw amps and 4 Behringer electronic xovers for a tri-amped 7.1 system. Then you don't have to worry about speaker to speaker impedance variations, insertion loss, passive phase problems, etc.

I also opted for the IB subwoofer.

[begin another thread hijack]

So....what is the point of the TL design? Point me to the description if I missed it - I couldn't really find one in Zinema's thread.

I'm still reading Zinema's thread, but I did find this:
TL FAQ (http://www.diysubwoofers.org/tls/)

I was thinking about outlaw 7075's and an outboard crossover. I have no problem doing it, and the budget isn't really an issue with the money I'm saving making my own speakers. Especially if there are no passive crossovers.

I guess part of my reluctance is knowing how to set up the crossover. Yet another thing to have to tune/calibrate/fiddle with. But by then the HT will be done and I'll be looking for something to do.

I'll read up on that as well. :D

I do like the idea of tri-amping my front speakers. I'm going to need to invest in a speaker wire company.

I'll likely go with 2-way surrounds, so that would be 3 7-channel outlaws, plus sub amps, plus crossovers. I'm going to need another 20amp outlet or two.

I'm still reading Zinema's thread, but I did find this:
TL FAQ (http://www.diysubwoofers.org/tls/)
I guess part of my reluctance is knowing how to set up the crossover. Yet another thing to have to tune/calibrate/fiddle with.
Yes... it is tricky, especially with 7 speakers. I spent hours with a frequency generator and 2 mics setting up my stereo tri-amped system. If it's not done right the sound image gets literally torn up. I think I'll get a calibrated mic and some FFT program when I get my 7.1 system ready to fiddle with. Andy then, when you get it all set up, will the electronic settings drift? It does have its challenges.


I'm going to need another 20amp outlet or two.
Only if you crank it to very high levels. 15 amps should do for normal listening as long as you turn the amps on one - at - a - time! :-) I'm going to build a sequencer to trigger the 12v power controllers in the Outlaws. It does add complexity... [EDIT] But that's the fun of the hobby (for me).

BTW: I got 7075's for the tweeters and mids and went with 7125's for the woofers.

I'll read up on it and talk to Bryan. I know he wanted two subs (one front/one back). Forunately, I have lots of space behind the second row. I'll just build two TL subs! Who needs butt kickers, just put a 10' wide sub behind the seats.

<Hijack>
Signed - two TL subs would just perform great! :D
Just make sure to make that riser very solid when placing a TL sub on it.
If you need more info just PM me...
</Hijack>

Sorry Steve, couldn't resist.... :)

[begin another thread hijack]

So....what is the point of the TL design? Point me to the description if I missed it - I couldn't really find one in Zinema's thread.

<continue hijack>
The main point of the TL design is to lower the frequency response down to the 16/17 Hz area, but you have to like the sound characteristic of it. It's a really soft but powerful low bass, not like a hard disco beat. And you get this feeling already at low bass levels without having to crank up the bass volume too much.
If you do much music listening some might find it too soft, but it's just perfect for the HT use! Of course you can do an IB setup if you have to room for it, but for an in-room solution I would go for the TL option any time again....just would build 2 of them next time! :D
</continue hijack>

<continue hijack>
The main point of the TL design is to lower the frequency response down to the 16/17 Hz area, but you have to like the sound characteristic of it. It's a really soft but powerful low bass, not like a hard disco beat. And you get this feeling already at low bass levels without having to crank up the bass volume too much.
If you do much music listening some might find it too soft, but it's just perfect for the HT use! Of course you can do an IB setup if you have to room for it, but for an in-room solution I would go for the TL option any time again....just would build 2 of them next time! :D
</continue hijack>

How does it lower the freq response over say just a larger enclosure? Sorry, I haven't read the faq yet - will go do that...

You getting second thoughts ebr?

You getting second thoughts ebr?

I was just wondering what the TL advantage was. I'm suspecting its a way to get better performance from a smaller enclosure, but it looks like zinema had lots of room to make a larger enclosure so I was wondering why go with the TL instead of just a bigger box.

A transmission line is pretty much just a fancy vented enclosure. It has a few benefits over a vented enclosure (debatable), but a large sealed box is still generally better for SQ.

Try telling that to PMC :)

I was just wondering what the TL advantage was. I'm suspecting its a way to get better performance from a smaller enclosure, but it looks like zinema had lots of room to make a larger enclosure so I was wondering why go with the TL instead of just a bigger box.

Good answer as my current game plan was to follow your lead with a "big box built into the screen wall approach. You already scared me away from going the IB route. Then again, feel free to continue to experiment. I'll only learn more. ;) :D

BTW - am I the only one who is completely lost when it comes to speak/sub design science? It's one area I really feel I should be taking a college intro class on.

BTW - am I the only one who is completely lost when it comes to speak/sub design science? It's one area I really feel I should be taking a college intro class on.

Vance Dickason wrote a book called "Loudspeaker Design Cookbook". I don't know how recently it has been updated for the newer drivers that take tons of power and have 2+ inches of cone travel but the theories and such should all be the same. It has been a while since I read it so I can't give much info, but it does go into all the different types of boxes (mine probably doesn't go into IB, but it does cover open baffles which is about the same).

Thanks, Scott. I look for it.

(mine probably doesn't go into IB, but it does cover open baffles which is about the same).

Open baffles are very different. IB subwoofers are all about allowing the driver to move freely without feeling air resistance. Open baffles are all about the backwave melding with the frontwave to create nulls to the sides of the speaker, reducing the number of reflections from the room. Think of a figure 8 dispersion pattern.

Oh Oh - didn't want to start a sub design debate here, since it's still Steve's HT construction thread....sorry for that :rolleyes:

Maybe we can find a better place to discuss that? ;)

Transmission lines are a different breed altogether. They're not like a ported cabinet where the port itself provides a hump in output. They're not sealed obviously. They're not IB nor OB.

A transmission line is designed to allow the driver to move freely like an IB but the length of the line is 1/4 or 1/8 of the wavelength of the free air resonance of the driver. So, when the driver starts to go into resonance, the air leaving the end of the tube hits a huge pressure change and creates a backwave that effetively damps the driver to control it's resonance. However, at most other frequencies, it's free to move just like it's basically in free air.

Very efficient, very fast, very tight. A properly designed line with an appropriate driver sounds a lot like a sealed box but more extended. The downside is the size of the cabinets.

As for liking bass the old fashioned way - I plead guilty! The only reason you need buttkickers is if you don't have enough sub to go low enough, loud enough, and under control to do it directly with air.

Bryan

A properly designed line with an appropriate driver sounds a lot like a sealed box but more extended. The downside is the size of the cabinets.



So what am I missing? If it sounds a lot like a sealed box and also creates a large box, what is the advantage of the TL over a very large sealed box? Not trying to argue but trying to understand :).

Stated another way - if one had the room to build a 50-100cuft+ enclosure why would one build a TL instead?

And, on the "old fashioned" bass - I'm with ya there. I feel absolutely no need for tactile transducers in my room ;).

The transmission line can be folded, to make for a smaller cabinet. The smallest transmission line speaker is the PMC DB1 at 6"x9.25"x11.5".

Butt Kickers are gimicky compared to big beefy subs and a floor with some give.

Exactly. When you fold the line, it becomes more managable - just more difficult to build but not really all that hard.

Bryan

This is potentially a very stupid question, but is there any reason why one couldn't make the riser a sub enclosure? Just curious actually.

I had looked into that, originally. It's certainly possible, but the problem lies in making sure the driver has enough breathing space behind it. I eventually just went with massive drivers in sealed enclosures.

I've been all over the map on my journey. I originally looked at an IB behind the screen as part of a 'stage' - not too far off from what ebr did. Then, I moved on to considering LLTs. Then I looked at trying to do a transmission line in the riser. Then I looked at trying to do a tapped horn in the riser. I finally just settled on two simple sealed subwoofers with a massive amplifier. More expensive, but simple and powerful. It took reading kramskoi's tests of his dual TC3000 for me to finally select a design and start building. I'm more than pleased with the results, which are quite astonishing.

You definately don't need buttkickers if you have about $1500 to spend and you're ready to DIY. At lower volumes, I guess buttkickers might be nice, but I love high SPL, and there is certainly plenty of shaking/pressure going on with the subwoofers placed directly on the basement concrete slab. Can you say pants flapping? :D

You definately don't need buttkickers if you have about $1500 to spend and you're ready to DIY. At lower volumes, I guess buttkickers might be nice, but I love high SPL, and there is certainly plenty of shaking/pressure going on with the subwoofers placed directly on the basement concrete slab. Can you say pants flapping? :D
I can't agree more! http://www.htguide.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_thumb.gif

Exactly. When you fold the line, it becomes more managable - just more difficult to build but not really all that hard.

Bryan

Yep, been there - done that...not hard at all! :)

I love how it looks...

I was wondering if i could email you some questions.

I was wondering if i could email you some questions.
Check your PM

I was wondering if i could email you some questions.

I don't think he can use his PM capability as he only has 2 posts. Is that correct? If so, post a few on here to get it working...

I don't think he can use his PM capability as he only has 2 posts. Is that correct? If so, post a few on here to get it working...
I get PMs from people with ZERO posts all the time. So looks to be no restriction there :)

swithey, I am sure you were aware, but it looks like the new LED light unit is out:

LED unit (http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Coolsky_light_unit.htm)

Wow--that LED unit is reasonable.....maybe I will have to consider a star ceiling. What's another zillion hours of work?!

swithey, I am sure you were aware, but it looks like the new LED light unit is out:

LED unit (http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Coolsky_light_unit.htm)
I did not but just ordered one for myself. THANKS!

Wow--that LED unit is reasonable.....maybe I will have to consider a star ceiling. What's another zillion hours of work?!

You really should consider it. It adds another dimension to the room, and really makes it a unique space.

It is alot of work, though...

Rob--did you find a solution to the seams in your panels for your star ceiling? How about you Swithey--do the seams for your panels look ok?

I don't want to hijack Swithey's thread, but I pretty much went with SandmanX's procedure. there are some details on my thread, I need to update it. the thread link is in my sig...

Hey Swithey I pm'd you

Was this the thread with the garage floors and if so does anyone remember about what page it was on. We have a special little vehicle to make a special floor for and I remember seeing a decent floor in one of these threads. We usually use the vinyl stuff but it wont be cool enough for this "stall"

Was this the thread with the garage floors and if so does anyone remember about what page it was on. We have a special little vehicle to make a special floor for and I remember seeing a decent floor in one of these threads. We usually use the vinyl stuff but it wont be cool enough for this "stall"
Page 64

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=620108&page=64&pp=30

You know I spend way too much time on this forum. :rolleyes:

I JUST finished reading through this whole thread (in 4 days!!) and wanted to say that all the work you have put in to this is truly inspirational :) I only hope I can have as nice a HT as you...

Page 64

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=620108&page=64&pp=30

You know I spend way too much time on this forum. :rolleyes:Awesome, thank you! Hmmmm, havent had good luck with Behr products but maybe their garage floor products are better.

I believe it was sandmanx who had that awesome floor made from epoxy and like 3 clear coats.

I posted a pic of mine in Steves thread. Is this what you are referring to?

Post #1902 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9980943&&#post9980943)

Ronnie

Doh, it was Ronnie, so sorry Ronnie, yep thats the one... Awesome floor !!

I JUST finished reading through this whole thread (in 4 days!!) and wanted to say that all the work you have put in to this is truly inspirational :) I only hope I can have as nice a HT as you...
Thanks botez. Sorry I wasted 4 days of your time ;) Once I'm DONE DONE (if that ever happens) I'll make a summary thread to speed up reading a bit :)

I just finished reading the thread as well. It took me about 6 hours (although I did skip through a bit of the middle portion). I am just in the planning stages as my house wont be finished for another 6 months and you have inspired me to do some things I never thought I would (such as buildig my own speakers). I have some questions I would like to PM you about building speakers if you dont mind.

and the theater looks beautiful. Great job!

I just finished reading the thread as well. It took me about 6 hours (although I did skip through a bit of the middle portion). I am just in the planning stages as my house wont be finished for another 6 months and you have inspired me to do some things I never thought I would (such as buildig my own speakers). I have some questions I would like to PM you about building speakers if you dont mind.
The DIY speakers are pretty amazing -- well worth the effort. Feel free to PM with any questions. Glad to help any way I can :)

and the theater looks beautiful. Great job!
Thanks for the compliment. I need to get started on the Wet Bar now. The wife had me involved with some other projects around the house so I got a little side tracked :rolleyes:

Wet Bar Construction Begun!

I have to confess, I’ve been watching a lot of movies and am now ready to get back to work. Tonight I bought some of the wood needed to build the Wet Bar cabinet. I was going to have it done professionally but decided to build it myself for about ½ the cost. Thanks ifeliciano/Ivan for all the tips and info to help me along my way.

This cabinets will be rift-cut oak in a very dark walnut stain (very similar in color of all the furniture you see at Crate and Barrel and Pottery Barn these days).

Here is a render of the final design. It changed about 20 times but the wife finally gave this one the stamp of approval. The backsplash will be 2" thick panels to absorb sound. It just happens the bar is a 1st reflection point for the front row of seating.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WetBar-Drawing.jpg


This is what I got done today. It does not look like much but I’m trying to take my time and get everything right. Keeping this baby square is my main concern. This is a partial lower cabinet carcass (minus the refrigerator section which will be built separately to make it easier to get the cabinet installed into the bar area). I am using a frameless design vs. the traditional cabinet style. This should be a little easier to build and give the modern look we want in the bar. I used $25/sheet cabinet grade birch plywood (compared to the $108/sheet for the rift-cut oak ply). I would never use this stuff for the door fronts but it will work out very well for the carcass. Most cabinets built these days use particle board inside but I thought the birch would be stronger and stain closer to the oak.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WetBar-Lower1.JPG

More soon :)

Steve, looks great! Another fun project. I know what you mean by getting back to work. Good luck with it!

Bud

Steve,

I've been out of it for a while as I can't get my lazy but out of the theater seats to finish the game room. I just checked back at your theater and it is an artwork to the eye. Really amazing. Looking forward to see how the new project works out.

Gary

Steve,

Plans for the bar look sweet :) Looking forward to seeing how it comes together.

Cheers
Calvin

Looks good Steve,

I am also planning for a wetbar in my theater. Are you worried about anything rattling, such as the doors, when you are watching movies?

Very nice, Steve ! It's about time you get back to work. :D

Wet Bar Update...

I worked all day and got most of the carcass completed. It actually came together much faster than I expected. My wife may have thrown a small change at me so I'm waiting on her answer before moving forward. I'll have more on that once I have the final word.

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/WetBar-Lower2.JPG

Steve, looks great! Another fun project. I know what you mean by getting back to work. Good luck with it!

Bud
Thanks Bud. Yes, it is the project that seems to never end!

Steve,

I've been out of it for a while as I can't get my lazy but out of the theater seats to finish the game room. I just checked back at your theater and it is an artwork to the eye. Really amazing. Looking forward to see how the new project works out.

Gary
Thanks a lot Gary. Yes, once functional, it is hard to work as hard. Luckily I have my wife whispering in my ear just about every day to "Get it done". You've done quite a job on your room as well! Please be sure to post pics of the Game Room construction.

Steve,

Plans for the bar look sweet :) Looking forward to seeing how it comes together.

Cheers
Calvin
Thanks and will do. Next on the list is to build the drawers. That is going to take little more time and care. We'll see how it goes.

Looks good Steve,

I am also planning for a wetbar in my theater. Are you worried about anything rattling, such as the doors, when you are watching movies?
There is a possibility but let me tell you about my experiences so far. Only at very high levels with low frequency tones dipping below 20Hz do things vibrate in the room. When I play the Pulse scene (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?threadid=820187) (which dips around 16Hz), it probably creates the most havoc in the room - doors rattle, I can hear things moving around in the attic space behind the screen and plates rattle downstairs in the kitchen.

My bar will have glass shelves with glasses sitting on those shelves. At slightly higher than normal listening levels, I should not have any issues. I do plan to put some rubber bumpers on the shelf supports, cabinet doors and drawers.

Very nice, Steve ! It's about time you get back to work. :D
Yes and it forced me to clean up the garage a bit in the process :D Where do you stand on your room and DIY speakers? I've been waiting for some updates.

Where do you stand on your room and DIY speakers? I've been waiting for some updates.

Very far ! :) I've been fishing and traveling around Texas with my son on my days off. My plan is to start back up on the room after the summer when my boy is back in school. The speakers are here still waiting on the veneer. :)

Ivan

Starfield Ceiling Update…

Sorry for the delay getting these pics up. I had a few honey-do projects to finish up before I could get this one complete.

My star ceiling is divided up into 2 sections – front and rear. The rear is the normal solid masonite covered with black speaker cloth. However, the front is mostly open so I could use 2” JM814 (similar to OC703) to absorb first ceiling reflections. I used the LED based light unit. You can find it HERE (http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Coolsky_light_unit.htm).

Here is a pic of both panels installed in the ceiling structure before I covered them with material or filled with insulation.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SP-Dryfit2.JPG

Here is a pic of the front section with the insulation installed. Notice the cross-bars I used. This is needed so the insulation will not push up when you press up from the other side.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SF-BackFrontPanel.JPG

Here is a closeup so you can see the fibers penetrating the insulation. In order to get the fibers to go through the insulation easily, I pre-poked the holes with a coat hanger. This made it a lot easier to push the flexible fiber through the holes and finally through the fabric. I used hot-glue to hold the fibers to the insulation (and it secures them very well).
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SF-BackFrontPanel-CU.JPG


Here is a pic of the room-side of the front section. I still need to trim the fibers. I plan to do that once it is installed in the ceiling.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SF-FrontofFrontPanel.JPG


Here is the rear panel installed in the ceiling structure. I have it propped up over the rear edge to give me some room to install the front section
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SF-RearPanelInstalled.JPG


Here are both sections installed.
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SF-BothPanelsInstalled.JPG


And finally some nice pics to show it off in the room

Close-up with room lights on and rope lighting on
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SF-Complete2.jpg


Close-up with room lights off and rope lighting on
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SF-Complete3.jpg


Oh and a glorious wide angle shot. I just love how it turned out :)
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/SF-Complete1.jpg

Steve - that is totally badass.

totally awesome!

Steve, every time I see pictures of your room and all the woodwork, attention to detail, the design, etc ... I just keep saying to myself, "Awesome, awesome room!"

Well done :D

Mike

Hey Steve,

Oh my... that is really beautiful. Excellent work, as usual... :)

Sweet! Nice job man, really adds that extra punch to the room. How's the wet bar coming?

Bud

Steve - what can I say WOW!!. Great job!

Cheers,
Mark

ok... now I am going to have to rip my out and start over... this looks great

Sigh. My 5 year old was looking over my shoulder and saw your star ceiling... "Coooool, I want one of those daddy." I want one too. Nice work!

Very nice, really love the high ceilings as well. Looks like your about wrapped up!

Wow Steve, I have been waiting to see the finished product. Excellent work as usual. I guess its time to do mine now :p

Ronnie

Wow. Awesome work, Steve.

Hey Steve,

I'm usually pretty quite on the forums but I just had to say how awesome your ceiling looks, fantastic craftsmanship and very unique. I have been quietly watching your build for a long time (as well as many others) and to be honest I wasn't sure if I would like the single smaller starfield in the middle of your ceiling. You are quite the visionary because it looks great, very much like a window in your ceiling to the stars. Great work.

Rob

Steve - that is totally badass.

totally awesome!

Steve, every time I see pictures of your room and all the woodwork, attention to detail, the design, etc ... I just keep saying to myself, "Awesome, awesome room!"

Well done :D

Mike

Hey Steve,

Oh my... that is really beautiful. Excellent work, as usual... :)

Steve - what can I say WOW!!. Great job!

Cheers,
Mark

Wow. Awesome work, Steve.

Thanks guys. It seemed like I was never going to get that part of the room complete. Now I need to program my remote so I can control the lighting with the touch of a button. I have all the tools/software but just need to find the time to get it done.

Sweet! Nice job man, really adds that extra punch to the room. How's the wet bar coming?

Bud
Wet Bar cabinet is still a WIP. My wife had me do some faux painting in the Master Bath and now I think I have to build a shelving unit for my daughters room. Oh -- but she told me I MUST have the bar done by the OU vs. Texas game (which is 1st week in October). Hmm, we'll see what happens. I've used up all my vacation so I guess I'll be working until Midnight a few nights a week for several weeks now :(

ok... now I am going to have to rip my out and start over... this looks great
No need to rip out the old HT, just sell the house and start over ;) :D You did some nice work on your theater as well.

Sigh. My 5 year old was looking over my shoulder and saw your star ceiling... "Coooool, I want one of those daddy." I want one too. Nice work!
Yep, my kids just love to turn it on when they come into the room. It is definitely one of their favorite parts of the room.

Very nice, really love the high ceilings as well. Looks like your about wrapped up!
Just about. I’m onto the Wet Bar next. HD is having a tile class this Saturday I plan to attend. I figure it can’t hurt since I’ve never done that before.

Wow Steve, I have been waiting to see the finished product. Excellent work as usual. I guess its time to do mine now :p

Ronnie
Yes, tag you're it. You do need to get yours done. Hey, you don’t have any small kids to deal with – so no excuses Mr!! Hmm, but you do have a pool. I might give you some slack there ;) :D Ping me if you have any questions when you get started

Hey Steve,

I'm usually pretty quite on the forums but I just had to say how awesome your ceiling looks, fantastic craftsmanship and very unique. I have been quietly watching your build for a long time (as well as many others) and to be honest I wasn't sure if I would like the single smaller starfield in the middle of your ceiling. You are quite the visionary because it looks great, very much like a window in your ceiling to the stars. Great work.

Rob
What – you didn’t love it from the beginning??? ;) Yes, it was a little different and I think the wife was a little reserved as well. However, now that everything is in place, it really blends very well in with the room. The goal was like a giant hole in the ceiling looking right up to the stars (just like you said) – kind of like you were watching the movie outdoors.

Oh -- but she told me I MUST have the bar done by the OU vs. Texas game (which is 1st week in October).

Funny, I've always had it as a goal in life to go to a "Red River Shootout" in person but now I think I might change it to "Go to Steve's to watch the Red River Shootout" ;)

Mike

Funny, I've always had it as a goal in life to go to a "Red River Shootout" in person but now I think I might change it to "Go to Steve's to watch the Red River Shootout" ;)

Mike
My wife graduated from OU so I'm "forced" to be a Sooner fan. It is always a good game to watch. I come from a family of Aggies so that just opens another can of worms (good or bad worms -- I'm not sure).

HUSKER POWER!!!