i get your point, but still while set to native, i have bars on the sidesThe whole point of pixel-mapping is to match it to your projector's resolution. For the SP4805 and IN72 set the HTPC to 854x480 and the projector to "Native".

The refresh rate should be one of 48/1.001 (for film) or 60/1.001 (for video) - as I recall the IN72 doesn't support 72Hz - if it does you could use 72/1.001 (for film).

I don't know what you are expecting, but unless your program is exactly 16:9 (1.78:1) format there will be black bars on the sides (4:3) or the top/bottom. (2.35:1, 1.85:1, etc.).

You'll have to get advice from an HTPC person as to how to setup your computer (I use a Bravo which is a no-brainer)!

So, basically that confirms our measurement of 1550:1 with Max Zoom @ D65 ;)

I will check the Min Zoom tomorrow, I guess it will get around 1850:1 based on your observation... we will see..


Regards,
Ekkehart, www.cine4home.de

Well yes for us calibrators a 5% difference is nothing - meters and setup diffs are larger - as well as the talent of the calibrator. (present company excepted - but I have seen some calibrators suggest turning digital contrast controls down as if it was an analog volume control!) But to AVSers who fret over purchase of projectors with a 100:1 delta in contrast - it is just going to cause them to fret even worse. Do they dare calibrate for 5% error if they are going to lose 5% contrast - it can really cause nightmares you know.

Care to tell me how you got 2200:1 on the Mitsu - as I can't verify it! (Have not tried the zoom position trick there - I always strive for 2' wide image in my work area - and I get what I get)

For anyone with the IN76, how bad are the black bars above and below the screen from the deactivated pixels? Or are there any at all, since they shouldn't even be throwing black if they're really turned off.

Anyway, just a concern since I have a nice fixed 16:9 screen, and hate seeing light spill above and below it. If they're noticable, I'll be waiting for a better PJ.

Backlash,

My 16:9 screen has a 2-3 inch black velor border. If there is any light spill from the IN76 it can not be detected. Worry not!

I can confirm contrast is sensitive to zoom (actually Bob Williams already said as much pages ago)

Min Zoom I got 1940:1
Max Zoom I got 1630:1

This is out of the box condition - no white peaking and 6500K not calibrated.

At marketed condition (NativeK and white peaking)

Min Zoom I got 2305:1
Max Zoom I got 1930:1


Hi-


When you say "white peaking" versus "no white peaking" on your measurement scenarios, what are they set at? I thought consensus was to turn white peaking down to 0 (from the default of 10 on my 4805).

Thanks,

I don't know what you are expecting, but unless your program is exactly 16:9 (1.78:1) format there will be black bars on the sides (4:3) or the top/bottom. (2.35:1, 1.85:1, etc.).

You'll have to get advice from an HTPC person as to how to setup your computer (I use a Bravo which is a no-brainer)!

eerrrr, i'm expecting a sharp crisp mapped image.

i get it, thanks

848x480 @ 59hz does the trick.

Well ... perhaps because 720x480 is a 4.5:3 ratio. Whatever.
Very nice. Have you ever considered, in doing your basic math, that pixels aren't always square? Do some basic math yourself and stop making assumptions.

720x480 is the default resolution for 16:9 DVDs this generation, what does that tell you?

For anyone with the IN76, how bad are the black bars above and below the screen from the deactivated pixels? Or are there any at all, since they shouldn't even be throwing black if they're really turned off.

Anyway, just a concern since I have a nice fixed 16:9 screen, and hate seeing light spill above and below it. If they're noticable, I'll be waiting for a better PJ.

There is none and the border a clean cut and sharp hedge (no blurring due to light spillage form these pixel. Infocus did a good job on this.

Benoit

Art,

Being partner ProjectorSolution who stop selling suddenly stop selling product (they may have lost the Infocus Authorized title) doesn't give you a lot of credibility when it is time discuss pricing and MAP policies!

Benoit


Moe, you might want to look at the Optoma HD7100. Prices keep falling on it, and next month, they will be readily available for more than a few bucks below $3K.

I've worked with and reviewed them both, and while there are always many differences, the HD7100 has the advantage of the Darkchip3, for a price that should soon be very close to the IN76. And you get a 3 year warranty standard. (in all fairness, I only get to play with projectors for 10-15 hours of lamp time, so often miss some of the idiosyncrosies, but for the bucks, I'm truly impressed with it.

As you point out the general commentary on the IN76 tends to be lukewarm. I think it's more that it is priced well above other DC2 projectors, and now, almost the same as a very solid, DC3 projector with variable lens shift, etc. Forgetting the gives and takes, I do believe it is the best value out there, IMHO, and an excellent choice for those on the fence.

There's nothing wrong with the IN76 (value wise) that $2000 price point wouldn't cure, but until then....

Hi-


When you say "white peaking" versus "no white peaking" on your measurement scenarios, what are they set at? I thought consensus was to turn white peaking down to 0 (from the default of 10 on my 4805).

Thanks,

yes I think 0 is the default - 100 is max white peaking. You lose color purity and blow out your whites gamma curve and color temp with it cranked up - but it also gets brighter than spec so it is useful on a sunday afternoon game day (combine it with bright room gamma and native color temp). It has eight steps to it - so you can pollute your whites as much as you want. BTW - TI BrilliantColor is the exact same function as WhitePeaking on RGBRGB color wheels - it makes the whites "whiter" and the colors "brighter". But what actually happens is bright white gets too bright - high contrast scenes become unreal - the white appears to float off the screen. Plus it is actually bluish white - which will make your near whites appear red in comparison thru optical illusion. And the colors are not brightened as much as the whites - and they actually become paler colors because of the white mixed in.

Continuing an earlier conversation, I can definitely see a 4" strip of light above and below my screen when everything is completely dark. It can be annoying at times. Duvetyne tape really hasn't helped a whole lot (if at all.)

Any idea of when the street prices will start coming down for the IN76?

Here in Spain it rates at 2.999 € but surprisingly you can find it in France for 1.700 €, Why such a big difference?? :confused:

720x480 is the default resolution for 16:9 DVDs this generation, what does that tell you?It tells me that you can't read. I am very well aware of the fact that the pixels recorded on a DVD are not square. As I already stated in my previous message (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7735451&&#post7735451):"720x480 is the native resolution of a DVD [which] has to be compressed to 640x480 for 4:3 or expanded to 854x480 for 16:9."To be precise:
on a 4:3 image the pixels themselves are 0.889:1 (narrower than tall); and on a 16:9 image the pixels are 1.186:1 (wider than tall).

Continuing an earlier conversation, I can definitely see a 4" strip of light above and below my screen when everything is completely dark. It can be annoying at times. Duvetyne tape really hasn't helped a whole lot (if at all.)

I have the same problem and overscan is on crop (doesn't seem to matter what it is set to). Is this due to being a 1024x768 procjector? Any way to fix this?

There's nothing wrong with the IN76 (value wise) that $2000 price point wouldn't cure, but until then....

I'm sure you realize that the street price from authorized dealers is very close to this price point.

If anyone is interested, here is a compilation of the review scores from cine4home for the HD72/IN76/HC3000 :

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=682588

Thanks for that;useful info; the underappreciated Mits shows up remarkably well.

There is none and the border a clean cut and sharp hedge (no blurring due to light spillage form these pixel. Infocus did a good job on this.

Benoit

On my In76 I see about 4" of light spill above and below the image.
So this doesn't add up ?
Anyone else with this problem ?

I am using VGA, what color temp should I use ? Native or 65k ?
Also what should I set my white peaking at ? If I remember correctly I think default is at 100.

I wonder how many fans are located inside the PJ ? It would be a cool DYI project to exchange them with som papst fans.

/Gibman

On my In76 I see about 4" of light spill above and below the image.
So this doesn't add up ?
Anyone else with this problem ?

I wonder how many fans are located inside the PJ ? It would be a cool DYI project to exchange them with som papst fans.

/Gibman

Only on the startup screen. Once you feed a source you can use the aspect ratio button to select a 16:9 or other to fill your screen assuming your screen viewing area is 16:9.

There are 2 fans inside the IN76. See the Cine4home pictures.

k

Just to clarify on the contrast ratio discussion when you are talking about minimum zoom you mean the lens is zoomed in as far as possible. So when setting up the projector you should position it as far from the screen as possible correct? Probably a stupid question, but I kept thinking do they mean the minimum amount zoomed in or zoomed out.

It tells me that you can't read. I am very well aware of the fact that the pixels recorded on a DVD are not square. As I already stated in my previous message (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7735451&&#post7735451):"720x480 is the native resolution of a DVD [which] has to be compressed to 640x480 for 4:3 or expanded to 854x480 for 16:9."To be precise:
on a 4:3 image the pixels themselves are 0.889:1 (narrower than tall); and on a 16:9 image the pixels are 1.186:1 (wider than tall).
Don't talk to me about not being able to read, you just contradicted yourself. You just told me to do math based on 720x480 to find out it's not 4:3 (or by extension 16:9) but then you admit pixels are not always square. Please don't get grouchy and nasty with me, you've made the majority of the inflammatory comments.

Only on the startup screen. Once you feed a source you can use the aspect ratio button to select a 16:9 or other to fill your screen assuming your screen viewing area is 16:9.

There are 2 fans inside the IN76. See the Cine4home pictures.

k
No, not only on the startup screen. As I said further up on the page, the light spill occurs above and beyond the 16:9 image, above and below. This is the result of the remaining 48 pixels (24 on the top and bottom each) that have been turned off in this projector (it is capable of doing 1280x768, but is locked in at 1280x720.) Also as previously stated, I can only see this when the image is completely dark (ie scene transitions.)

No, not only on the startup screen. As I said further up on the page, the light spill occurs above and beyond the 16:9 image, above and below. This is the result of the remaining 48 pixels (24 on the top and bottom each) that have been turned off in this projector (it is capable of doing 1280x768, but is locked in at 1280x720.) Also as previously stated, I can only see this when the image is completely dark (ie scene transitions.)


Then go into the menu and look for "overscan" and make sure it is "off" or not "zoom". You can also move the image left or right and up and down somewhere in there ... I can't recall where. Tonight if I have some time I will hunt down the paths in the menu system.

K

Then go into the menu and look for "overscan" and make sure it is "off" or not "zoom". You can also move the image left or right and up and down somewhere in there ... I can't recall where. Tonight if I have some time I will hunt down the paths in the menu system.

The light spill above and below the 16:9 image cannot be corrected with any setting on the PJ. It is always there and is a direct result of the fact that the projector is using the new 15:9 chip, as mentioned by NoThru22.

For those wondering, as long as you are using a screen with a light absorbing frame you should be fine. My screen is frameless however, and I can easily see the overspill from the screen, even on my dark brown wall. I plan on putting some masking above and below the screen when I get around to it. :)

I got duvetyne tape to mask the spillover and it helps a little, but I can still see it. It does not bother me too much because it is only when the screen is completely dark that I can even see it.

It doesn't really bother me that much either. As you said, the overspill can only be seen when the screen consists almost entirely of projected black. Even dim scenes usually generate enough light to render the overspill invisible.

I do want to mask it however, since I find it annoying during certain scenes (opening of LOTR:FOTR, etc). It's surprising to hear you still see it with Duvetyne tape. I use black felt for masking letterbox bars and that seems to completely kill the light. I was planning on using the felt for the above/below screen masking as well.

On my In76 I see about 4" of light spill above and below the image.
So this doesn't add up ?
Anyone else with this problem ?

I am using VGA, what color temp should I use ? Native or 65k ?
Also what should I set my white peaking at ? If I remember correctly I think default is at 100.

I wonder how many fans are located inside the PJ ? It would be a cool DYI project to exchange them with som papst fans.

/Gibman

I checked again yesterday with black different black and gray pattern. An yes I could see some light spillage but I had to shrink the picture size because my HCCV Screen black border do an excellent job at absorbing that spillage. What kind of screen are you using? You need to ensure you have a black border.

For fan noize it would be easyer and less risk to DYI a casing around the projector than dismantling the projector and throwing his relase value in garbage.

Color Temp always use 65K. White peaking must be 0.

Benoit

The light spill above and below the 16:9 image cannot be corrected with any setting on the PJ. It is always there and is a direct result of the fact that the projector is using the new 15:9 chip, as mentioned by NoThru22.

For those wondering, as long as you are using a screen with a light absorbing frame you should be fine. My screen is frameless however, and I can easily see the overspill from the screen, even on my dark brown wall. I plan on putting some masking above and below the screen when I get around to it. :)


Untrue. The IN76 produces a masked 1280x720 picture. The 48 extra are not displayed when in 16:9 mode. This has been in reviews also. You can even read about it on the IN76 page of www.infocus.com.

What resolution does the projector scale to for HDTV content?
The native resolution of the projectors vary based on the model.

IN72: 854x480 (480p)
IN74: 1024x576 (576p)
IN76: 1280x720 (720p)

All HDTV signals (720p and 1080i) will scale to the native resolution of the projector.


Also post #318 from this thread from Bob Williams himself.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6958357&highlight=1280x720#post6958357




k

I am seeing the exact same light issue above and below the screen regardless of what Overscan is set to (crop or off). I can't remember if I even tried zoom, but wouldn't that stretch the picture and lose quality?

It doesn't really bother me that much either. As you said, the overspill can only be seen when the screen consists almost entirely of projected black. Even dim scenes usually generate enough light to render the overspill invisible.

I do want to mask it however, since I find it annoying during certain scenes (opening of LOTR:FOTR, etc). It's surprising to hear you still see it with Duvetyne tape. I use black felt for masking letterbox bars and that seems to completely kill the light. I was planning on using the felt for the above/below screen masking as well.
I mainly wanted the duvetyne to cover the fact that the picture is not exactly square in all corners (it bleeds over the bottom edge almost an inch compared to the top) and the picture shows up on the duvetyne tape almost as brightly as it did on the dark blue wall. I was very disappointed at wasting 27 bucks on this stuff.

Untrue. The IN76 produces a masked 1280x720 picture. The 48 extra are not displayed when in 16:9 mode.
Do four separate members experiencing this problem not contradict this? How else can it be explained?

Untrue. The IN76 produces a masked 1280x720 picture. The 48 extra are not displayed when in 16:9 mode. This has been in reviews also. You can even read about it on the IN76 page of www.infocus.com.

The chip is not masked. There was plenty of discussion on this topic with Bob Williams prior to the release of the projector. The light path is focused on the 16:9 center portion of the chip, and the pixels above and below that are never turned on, but that's not the same as masking and light spill still results. The review that I assume you are refering to (projectorreview) is simply wrong.

You can easily see this for yourself:

Shrink down your image so it easily fits within your screen. Then project a blank white screen. Measure it. Then project a blank black screen. Measure that. You'll see the black screen is taller. Note that the overspill is still there with the white screen, you just can't see it.

:)

Try velcro mesh tape

I am prototyping my WAF DIY living screen - intend to velcro in a print of her choice - and man did that velcro mesh soak up the light! Almost all of the commercial frames are covered with black velvet stuff that works very well - but you probably want the wider 3" beveled frames to do the job. I got lucky and picked up a 50' roll of 2" tape for the per ft price when a local hardware store decided wallmart was killing them. :D

Of course if the extra blank pixels bother you - then letterbox Cinemascope movies must really annoy the heck out of you. Build some moveable black masks and you never need see a blank pixel again!

The 1280x768 chip is treated as if it were a 1280x720. It does not mean the pixels are not there - it just means they are blanked and never addressed - masked would refer to a mechanical DMD modification - which TI certainly could do to address XGA/HD markets with the same chip different package. But then they do make it cheaper by having same package different markets.

Sure would have been nice to have a bit of digital image shift though!

huh, no offense, but i can't believe this actually bothers anybody. if you're letting that bother you while actually watching a movie then i think you've got other problems to worry about. ;) or am i just missing something? the in76 is awesome.

i think i finally mapped my htpc to my in72 last night. yay. nvidia says 848x480, but in72 reports 856x480@59hz in the corner while syncing. nice sharp image, just like 720x480 when it thinks it's a hdtv. nvidia won't let me enter 854 so i'll try 848 tonight. i messed around with it for so long i was just finally happy to have a nice crisp image that appears to be mapped.

something i noticed over the weekend after mounting my in72. my in72 appears to be a little quieter than my in76. i think it's all about room design. i can hear my in72 if i really try, but it's actually pretty darn quiet. bub sorry, not trying to discount your experience. now my in76 i can hear a bit more because it's about a foot closer to my head, but still neither of them are bad enough to make me upset about it. i racked up 45 hours on my in72 this weekend. :D (weather was crap and wife was sick)

pretty sweet little unit and a great buy for the money imo. i have no regrets coming from my panny 700.

billymac

did you try the on/off pixel checkerboard patterns - as that is the only way to know for sure if you are pixel mapped. ColorFacts test patterns are free to use without license, or Nokia Display Test, or spend the money on DisplayMate. Keep in mind if you are checking your brightness/contrast - that RGB is for desktop and video overlay while RGB Video is for VMR9 DVD's - you want to adjust your source as the projector is correct at defaults ( I think you need the update for this colorspace menu in IN72 - it only made IN76 production)

Even when you get pixel mapped desktop - you may still have issues with your players buggy aspect controls. Customer with TheaterTek that stretches 479 to 480 on certain aspects rather than maps 480 - can drive you batty! Only AVIA PRO DVD has the scanline mapping tests that I am aware of - but you might be able to see it with resolution patches.

i have the nokia monitor test installed but i didn't get a chance to run it.

i literally messed with it for about 2 hours yesterday. my wife was getting pissed and i had to goto bed. i've got a pretty good eye though and i think i'm super close if not already there. the only thing i worry about is the refresh, but i don't understand that enough to know yet if 59hz is going to be a problem.

what was really weird was, the nvidia drivers wanted to send the projector a timing inside of another timing. (if that makes sense). so if i put it at 848x480, the dirvers would actually send it a 480p, 710p, or 1080i signal as reported in lower left. the only res that looked good this way was 720x480 at 480p. everytime i would try to change it to 848x480 it would sync at 720p and then 1080i after i upgraded the firmware on the in72. the picture looked like garbage. finally, after uninstalling and reinstalling my drivers several times and after upgrading the firmware on the in72, i went into the nvidia drivers and messed with all the advanced timings. i was able to set it at 59.000hz and 856x480 with adapter scaling and it worked. no more 480p, 720p or 1080 in the corner. this time it said 856x480@59hz in the corner and the picture was awesome. at that point i was so glad to have it at least "look" good i stopped. i want to go home and write down all the timings so i can mess with it some more. :)

You may want to lurk on the SP4805 thread - that was hot topic with all the driver card updates and HTPC for a long time.

Once you get it working at 60Hz - then you want to fool with 48Hz (or maybe 72Hz)- and get your RGB and RGB Video dialed in for perfect greyramps with no dithering/banding. Of course all Hz should be dialed down by a thousandth for perfection (/1.001)

Supposedly the Toshiba HD player is a embedded linux HTPC - it is good enough that my HTPC guru DaGamePimp is throwing in the towel!

The chip is not masked. There was plenty of discussion on this topic with Bob Williams prior to the release of the projector. The light path is focused on the 16:9 center portion of the chip, and the pixels above and below that are never turned on, but that's not the same as masking and light spill still results. The review that I assume you are refering to (projectorreview) is simply wrong.

You can easily see this for yourself:

Shrink down your image so it easily fits within your screen. Then project a blank white screen. Measure it. Then project a blank black screen. Measure that. You'll see the black screen is taller. Note that the overspill is still there with the white screen, you just can't see it.

:)

I will try this black and white screen test tonight. I do however use the blue default and have never seen any spill onto my border even when I walk right up to it and place a finger or piece of paper on the border. I fit HDTV 16:9 in perfect. It's the 2.35:1 movies that I see borders on top and bottom.

post #318 this thread Bob claims it only shows 1280x720 pixels. Perhaps your spill is more but certainly I do not see even 1/4" over my border.

I have the IN76. Can someone post a photo of this issue? I have seen another IN76 user claim he had 2 inch borders on the sides of his IN76 on a 16:9 screen.

DirectTV via component cable
HD-DVD via HDMI cable

k

yeah. i wish there were some more in72 htpc'ers out there. in time i suppose.

I didn't see where you said vga or dvi... it makes a difference as to where the problem could be.

who me? neither. i'm using hdmi with my htpc. i tried m1:hdmi adapter with same results. it doesn't have to be dvi in order to work, at least not on the 4805

who me? neither. i'm using hdmi with my htpc. i tried m1:hdmi adapter with same results. it doesn't have to be dvi in order to work, at least not on the 4805

Sorry, that post ended up in the wrong thread :p

I did the black, white and blue screens. No difference between these and a DirectTV 16:9 HDTV image using component cables. I also see no overspill with the HD-DVD an HDMI.

This issue must come up with HTPC's that do 1024x768 outputs???

k

Did you zoom your image so that the overspill would be on your screen and not your frame?

Project a black screen. Zoom the image so that the bottom of the projected black screen is clearly above the bottom of your screen and away from the frame. Mark the bottom of the image. Then switch to a white screen. Since this is the 16:9 frame and the black screen was 15:9, you should immediately notice the bottom of the white screen is above the level where the bottom of the black screen was. The difference is the amount of overspill you have, which varies by screen height and is the difference between 16:9 and 15:9.

If that doesn't work for you, I give up. :D

Did you zoom your image so that the overspill would be on your screen and not your frame?

Yes. I zoomed down so that there was an inch or so smaller than the frame. No difference between black, blue, white background without any source. When I connected the component or HDMI up still no difference.

Could you tell me how you have your aspect set? (native or 16:9?) Each yields the same 16:9 ratio.

How about overscan? (off for me)

I am curious about a computer connection. I will be trying my laptop tomorrow night (I need to bring a cable home from work).

k

Do four separate members experiencing this problem not contradict this? How else can it be explained?
Make it 5 members.

I found that the velvet tape from Goo Systems helps with this issue - kills more light than the Duvetyne. My screen border is just under 2" but I still get some spill that goes beyond the border from those extra 48 pixels. I don't like it. Unless someone comes up with a way for the projector to eliminate it I plan on going with a 3" border.

Mike

Make it 5 members.

I found that the velvet tape from Goo Systems helps with this issue - kills more light than the Duvetyne. My screen border is just under 2" but I still get some spill that goes beyond the border from those extra 48 pixels. I don't like it. Unless someone comes up with a way for the projector to eliminate it I plan on going with a 3" border.

Mike

My Carada Criterion frame has a 3" frame and it is absorbing the light spill.

Make it 5 members.

I found that the velvet tape from Goo Systems helps with this issue - kills more light than the Duvetyne. My screen border is just under 2" but I still get some spill that goes beyond the border from those extra 48 pixels. I don't like it. Unless someone comes up with a way for the projector to eliminate it I plan on going with a 3" border.

Mike

What is your display source? HTPC, SD-DVD, set top box???

What is your display source? HTPC, SD-DVD, set top box???


Pioneer Elite 59avi --> DVDO VP30 --> IN76

I had to darken the theater WAY down for the test and turn off all lighting.

Once down I do see a difference in size between the black and white and blue screens. This is only when zoomed down so the entire wide image is in the center of the screen also.

I have a 3" black velour frame so when I fit the viewing area it is almost impossible to see unless I put a piece of paper over the frame.

I can see where this would be a distraction without a light absorbing frame.

My screen wall for reference.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7715744#post7715744


k

so i ran nokia monitor test and a couple other test patterns. pretty sure i'm pixel mapped. if someone else out there has someting to the contary please let me know.

in72
hdmi
nvidia geforce 6600gt
latest nvidia drivers
within nvidia settings add 848x480 at 59hz
then go into advanced timing settings and change front-end and back-end active to 856 and make sure refresh is a 59.000hz.
click apply.
when syncing in72 lower left should say 856x480@59hz and deskop should be crystal clear and mapped.

again, this was the best i have been able to get it so far. if anybody has a better setting or can contradict that this is pixel mapped, please advise.

within nvidia settings add 848x480 at 59hz
then go into advanced timing settings and change front-end and back-end active to 856 and make sure refresh is a 59.000hz.You should NOT use 856! Use 854 or less.

Do NOT use 59.000Hz

Use 60/1.001=59.9400 and realize that setting is only good for "video" sources. Use 48/1.001 for DVD movies.

billymac - I see what you mean about a resolution inside a resolution. As far as your desktop is concerned it is 848 - but as far as the projector is concerned it is 856 - I presume if you run native it is lopping of the pixel on the end of the image - which had no desktop anyway - your desktop is falling short three pixels from the panels edge? Is there an outer pixel border pattern in that test set - cannot remember - that will tell if you have not run your desktop off the edges. The checkerboard focus patterns tell you if you are pixel mapped - if you are not there will appear to be a grey wave or band in the checkerboard - and up close you can see it is not B&W dots but light and dark grey dots.

cavu

well, unfortunately, nvidia won't take 854, or 852, they come up as "invalid"

the nvidia drivers see it as 848, the in72 sees it as 856

if i set it to 848x480 at 60hz, it looks like crap, not mapped, and fuzzy. you may not know what i'm talking about if you don't use a htpc

kras, the checkerboard test pattern is dead on

i couldn't find anything with side borders, only bottom borders, and they were obviously fine.

as for the refresh rate, i'll have to see if i can set it to cavu's numbers above.

also cavu, i don't think anybody with the 4805 ever precisely matched those refresh rates you mention above did they? i mean, those are ideals, not necessary. right?

if i set it to 848x480 at 60hz, it looks like crap, not mapped, and fuzzy. you may not know what i'm talking about if you don't use a htpcBuy a Bravo.

no way man, i've thought about it many times

but i use my htpc for way more than just dvd's.

:)

also cavu, i don't think anybody with the 4805 ever precisely matched those refresh rates you mention above did they?Certainly they have! Why would they not??!!

However, the projector truncates the value and displays only integer numbers. Hence, while 59.94 reports as 59Hz, the projector is actually refreshing at 59.94Hz.

Use the proper numbers.

lol, errrrr...no offense, but are you fully aware of what i'm doing, or simply what the idealistic end result should be?

okay so i got 848x480 to stick @ 47.997, that's as close as i could come to 47.95

it won't stick on the 59.94 either, not even close. that's fine.

i'll stick with 848x480@48hz, it's still mapped and looks as good as 856x480@59hz did though, just an fyi. ;)

billymac

The problem with not getting perfect refresh rate is you will get an occasional hiccup- that is what is so maddening about HTPC is every driver/motherboard/OS/card combo behaves differently. Now the closer you get the further apart the hiccups get. VGA legacy requires 8 bit boundaries for scanlines - so it depends if that legacy is broken if you can get it to do other that 856 or 848. I think Luis on the SP4805 thread reported it working at 856 without squishing the pixels - but few accompished it. Maybe rez inside rez is the way to do it. Checking a test pattern with extreme left/right scanline is only way to know for sure. But if you get the pixel checkerboards clear that is the main battle - as horizontal resolution is about the last few pixels on the edges.

thanks for the reply kras. i'll sit tight and see if anybody else figures it out any better. for right now, it looks great and dvd's are playing flawlessly as far as i can see. i don't see anything weird going on at the edges and it probably wouldn't bother me if there was because i'm slightly zoomed out onto the blackout border.

it looks great and i'm super happy with this little baby brother to the in76.

i still don't think even dagamepimps timing for the 4805 was a perfect film scan freq, but i could be wrong. i know it was close, i know it was mapped, but not true 1:1. like you said. as long as it looks crystal clear i'm happy--and it does. :)

as for my posts on the matter, really just trying to help future in72'ers get it working right with their htpc's.

Can anyone hear a high-pitched noise coming from the projector? It is very low but sounds like it must be the colorwheel spinning. I'm not sure if I'm imagining things at this point! :-)

Well the colorwheel RPM is high pitched - do you hear computer monitors and hard drive frequencies as well?

It has been so hard to pin point but I'm almost certain it is the projector. I tell you I'm trying to find new things after reading so many posts in the forum! Argh! :-) I never even thought about the sound until reading posts about it bothering people! Sometimes the forum is a bad thing.. :-)

Can anyone hear a high-pitched noise coming from the projector? It is very low but sounds like it must be the colorwheel spinning. I'm not sure if I'm imagining things at this point! :-)
I hear it as well. It's nothing that bothered me. My Toshiba MT700 was a beast that constantly changed fan speeds. It's changing noise that really bothers me.

I have posted a few times about projector noise and the need for a hushbox or diffuser panel. I have just had another idea which I will share and hope get some feedback (this part is pruined from a larger HVAC question I posted in a the Design & Construction forum) .

I have just recently installed the projector. As it gets hotter, the fan picks up speed. I have drop ceilings and I did not have the ceiling tiles in place when I just put the projector up. I now have the ceiling tiles in place. The projector seems to run hotter and louder since the ceiling tiles are in place. When I first turn it on, the fan is realtively quite for the first 30 minutes, but picks up in volume as time progresses. I would like it to run a little quiter (hence the reason I am looking to so many options).

Would it make sense for me to put a return in the ceiling directly beside the exhaust (the spot in the tile that is the hottest)? I could run a line and connect it to my return, or more likely just run a line and vent it into my furnace room about 12 feet away. As my joists are stuffed with mineral wool and sound isn't leaking, I could just have the grill on my ceiling and let the hot air blow up between my ceiling and the insulation. What is the best option?
Is it likely that this will keep the temperature of the projector lower, and keep the fan noise at the lower level as well?

Can anyone hear a high-pitched noise coming from the projector? It is very low but sounds like it must be the colorwheel spinning. I'm not sure if I'm imagining things at this point! :-)

My first IN76 had absolutely no high-pitch whine. I had to send it in for warranty exchange with a new unit due to dead M1-DVI-D (I'd been happy with quality repair, but InFocus decide to send me a new one for exchange.)

First thing I noticed with the new unit, which arrived last Friday, was the high-pitched whine. It's not loud, and it goes away after the PJ warms up. I just hope it doesn't become worse.

I have answered my own question to a degree. I removed the tile on the exhaust side (in FRONT of the projector). The fan noise dropped. I don't know if the noise was "lost" in the cavity above, or if the close proximity to the ceiling (1-2") kept the temp up, but it is actually quieter! The change is noticeable. Now I want to see if I can make some vent on the tile and it will produce the same result. I don't want to remove the tile (it will look odd).

So far so good. Once my Berkline 090's finally arrive I imagine we'll be putting on even more hours per month.

What would I do different? The more I read about CH 2.35 or 2.4 to 1 aspect ratios the more I want it. My current setup does not allow for it without some rework. I am helping 2 others finish their media rooms and we are designing for 2.35:1 from the get go. This type of setup really is impressive.

k

I didn't try on the IN76 but on my 4805 it was easy to distinguish the sound of the fan vs color wheel. When you shutdown the projector, the color wheel was stopping immediately while the fan was carrying cooling the lamp.

You could try this shut down the projector and listen if the high pitch noise (who should be the color wheel) stop during projector cool down.

Benoit

Can anyone hear a high-pitched noise coming from the projector? It is very low but sounds like it must be the colorwheel spinning. I'm not sure if I'm imagining things at this point! :-)

Yesterday I added a DVDO with the ABT106 de-interlacing card and the end results is impressive. The VP30 is doing a better job at de-interlacing and scaling 1080i. Now, to have the same improvement on the DVD path I will need to get a DVD player that can get 480I over HDMI.

Benoit

okay, so i finally got it mapped correctly i think with nivida 6600gt and latest drivers

after adding and using 848x480 @48hz and then going into advanced timing and switching to 854x480 with monitor scaling selected. i'm pixel mapped as confirmed by nokia monitor test and the in72 displays 854x480@48hz (47.997 was the closest to 47.952 i could get)

settings are sticking and zoomplayer presets confirm that 848x480 lops off part of the right side while staying mapped and 854x480 does not. watched about an hour worth of several dvd's through zoomplayer and it looks awesome with the nvidia decoders and vmr9 renderless.

i think i'm done messing with this now. :D

okay, so i finally got it mapped correctly i think with nivida 6600gt and latest drivers

after adding and using 848x480 @48hz and then going into advanced timing and switching to 854x480 with monitor scaling selected. i'm pixel mapped as confirmed by nokia monitor test and the in72 displays 854x480@48hz (47.997 was the closest to 47.952 i could get)

settings are sticking and zoomplayer presets confirm that 848x480 lops off part of the right side while staying mapped and 854x480 does not. watched about an hour worth of several dvd's through zoomplayer and it looks awesome with the nvidia decoders and vmr9 renderless.

i think i'm done messing with this now. :D


Ouch! :eek: billymac, you hurt my brain with that explanation. HTPC sounds way over my head right now but if I ever decide to go that route I will definately look you up! Congrats on getting everything mapped and looking good! Now enjoy some movies!
:D

billymac

I thought you said you were done messing with it yesterday.... :p

heh, i know i know. i'm really impressed with this projector. the in76 is nice too, but heck for the money this little in72 is pretty awesome. if this was my first projector, i'd be pretty stoked. the color accuracy, blacks and shadow detail are very impressive when you consider what it costs. i've said it before, and i'll say it again this thing blows my panny 700 out of the water. selling it and buying this to replace it was the best move i've made. now let's see how she holds up under some heavy useage. :D

billymac ,

Was mapping the IN72 not the same as it was for the 4805 ? 848x480 and 854x480 should both work just fine with Nvidia .

--------- Jason

dagamepimp, well, i'm still kind of scratching my head on that actually :)

i don't know if i had some weird issue from not running a driver cleaner before installing new drivers or what, but for some reason when i first synced up the pj, it wanted to default to 720x480. and then when i tried 848, 852 and 854 it looked like garbage and wasn't mapped. i messed with it for a long time and finally figured out i could get 854x480 to work in advanced timings inside of 848x480. what's weird is, the projector is reporting 854x480@48 both in the lower corner while syncing and then also in "source material" under the menu, but nokia monitor test is stating 848x480. i'm guessing nokia is getting that from windows. there is indeed a difference between 854x480 and 848x480 when i use the presets with zoomplayer though. 848 lops off part of the right side and 854 does not.

like i said, i could be a knucklehead and someone else here could hook it up and it work right out of the box, but i wasn't so lucky for some reason. i more or less wanted to document it in this thread in case others were having problems.

actually i have a question for you since you're lurking here. how important is the scan rate for film to be exact? the closest i could get to 47.952 was 47.997. did you ever get the 4805 dead on and just how important is it for dvd's? my guess is, it's ideal, but not totally necessary if you're not seeing any problems.

actually i have a question for you since you're lurking here. how important is the scan rate for film to be exact? the closest i could get to 47.952 was 47.997. did you ever get the 4805 dead on and just how important is it for dvd's? my guess is, it's ideal, but not totally necessary if you're not seeing any problems.

Actually it is pretty important and yes my 4805 settings were perfect with zero frames dropped through an entire film (@ 47.952) . If you are not dropping any frames or it is so very slight that you cannot detect it then I would not worry about it ;) .

----------- Jason

right on man, thanks for replying. hope things are good.

Yesterday I added a DVDO with the ABT106 de-interlacing card and the end results is impressive. The VP30 is doing a better job at de-interlacing and scaling 1080i. Now, to have the same improvement on the DVD path I will need to get a DVD player that can get 480I over HDMI.

The VP30 offer different color space selection for HDMI the optimum one being YCbCr 4:2:2. Kras can you confirm that the IN76 is accepting YCbCr 4:2:2? I remember Bob William stating that the HDMI was 10bits (therefore 4:2:2) but I cannot find the post.


Benoit

Did you mean ABT102 card? I don't see a ABT106 card on their website. I thought the VP30 does a poor job with 1080i material, it throws away half the resolution then scales back up to 720P. The IN76 uses Pixelworks’™ DNX and does proper 1080i without throwing away resolution. Did you mean 480i video material because that is when the VP30 with ABT102 card would help.

I ordered the IN76 from VA today and hope it stands up to the reviews I've been reading.

I was planning on ordering a 50" Panasonic plasma to replace my 42" but then started looking into a projector and screen. I'm pretty excited and hope it is impressive.

I ordered screen samples from carada.

I would love to hear how happy you are or any tips I should know to help out with install.

Thanks!

I ordered the IN76 from VA today and hope it stands up to the reviews I've been reading.

I was planning on ordering a 50" Panasonic plasma to replace my 42" but then started looking into a projector and screen. I'm pretty excited and hope it is impressive.

I ordered screen samples from carada.

I would love to hear how happy you are or any tips I should know to help out with install.

Thanks!

I use my IN76 as my primary TV. I have a Carada Criterion brilliant white (BW) screen (118"). I opted for the 1.4 gain BW for a couple reasons. First, while the majority of threads in the forum will say that you should have a grey/high contrast screen to improve contrast, I saw a couple reviews that compared white and grey, or white, silver and grey, and there is no question that grey subdues colors.

My belief was that modern projectors have enough contrast that they don't need to be helped like in years past. Also, I found that the higher gain helped when I had some lights on, which is contrary to many posts that say that the grey does better with ambient light. Finally, since I use my projector as my primary TV, I put around 2500 hours on it a year, and the higher gain helps lengthen the effective life of my bulb.

As to installation, you don't want to use keystone correction. You need to either mount the screen and have the flexibility to adjust the projector up or down until the image is square, or do the reverse, mount the projector level so that it is projecting a square (rectangle actually, but where the width is the same at the top and bottom of the image) image and then mount the screen so that it is lined up with the image.

There will be some offset, meaning the projector needs to be mounted a certain number of inches above the screen. With my 118" screen, the projector needs to be mounted a little over 9" above the top of the screen, any more or less and the image will be a trapezoid and you need to use keystone correction, which once again you want to avoid at all costs.

you'll be stoked. it's sweet. i own the in76 and the in72. you'll be very happy.

Thanks for the quick replies!

Tnedator... I heard about the key stoning thing and that I should avoid it.

I appreciate the explanation on the mounting instructions on how to avoid the key stoning as I am a newbie to the projector thing.

You have very good points on the screen. I of course want the best picture like everybody but one thing I'm looking for is to be able to have some lights on and still have an impressive picture.

My ceiling height is 7'3"
Viewing distance is 10'

I'm looking at a 92" screen but might drop it down it 88.

I don’t know if I can mount my screen 9" down from the ceiling without it being to low? I will have to play tomorrow with my tape measure and see.

Just had a powe failure tonight. The projector went dark in a snap. I know this isn't good, but unless you are running UPS or something, it is bound to happen eventually. What does it do to the projector?

I use my IN76 as my primary TV. I have a Carada Criterion brilliant white (BW) screen (118"). I opted for the 1.4 gain BW for a couple reasons. First, while the majority of threads in the forum will say that you should have a grey/high contrast screen to improve contrast, I saw a couple reviews that compared white and grey, or white, silver and grey, and there is no question that grey subdues colors.

My belief was that modern projectors have enough contrast that they don't need to be helped like in years past. Also, I found that the higher gain helped when I had some lights on, which is contrary to many posts that say that the grey does better with ambient light. Finally, since I use my projector as my primary TV, I put around 2500 hours on it a year, and the higher gain helps lengthen the effective life of my bulb.



Did you get samples of screen material? Reviews of screen material are absolutely useless - because they have to match up to your room and your installed projector.

Grey screens do not subdue colors - they are just as vivid as they are on white screens. The only look subdued if you place a grey sample on top of a white screen - but they are not subdued they are just not as bright in comparison. Take the same two screens - put the white sample on top of the grey screen - now the reverse occurs and the white screen looks blown out. Take an .8 gain grey screen with a 1000 lumen projector (in a dark room) and it would look identical to a 1 gain white grey screen with a 800 lumen projector (in a dark room)

The only reason to not use a grey screen is if your room does not need it - the notion they are only for low contrast projectors is ancient and never true to begin with. A grey screen in a dark room improves blacks just as much as an equivalently dimmer projector - they do not improve contrast. Grey screens prove their worth in a white walled ambient room compared to a white screen - and indeed they do improve contrast their. Gain screens also prove their worth in a white walled ambient room compared to a matte screen. Combining gain with grey and it works even better. The worse screen for a white walled ambient room - is a matte white screen. Now if you have high ambient then you need high gain combined with high lumens to achieve high contrast. If you put a screen sample up and it does not dim when you walk to the sides - it is a matte screen and cannot help an ambient room.

droper

For a screen that small - I would be looking into matte grey screens with gains less than one - though consider the modest gain greys if you want more of a daytime TV usage than movies. Anything else would be way to brite.

droper

For a screen that small - I would be looking into matte grey screens with gains less than one - though consider the modest gain greys if you want more of a daytime TV usage than movies. Anything else would be way to brite.

Since he is purchasing the IN76 rather than an LCD/Plasma, I am using it will be a main TV, it might be too bright when new, but what about 2000 hours into the bulb when it has dimmed substantially, but still has 1000 hours of bulb life? I have learned that projectors are about compromise, especially when you use it as your primary TV.

Did you get samples of screen material? Reviews of screen material are absolutely useless - because they have to match up to your room and your installed projector.

Grey screens do not subdue colors - they are just as vivid as they are on white screens...

Yes, I got samples from da-lite and Carada. As you know, it is hard to compare small patches, because a white and grey put up at the same time pretty much always favor the grey.

What ultimately made my mind up (in addition to the link I am adding below), was the fact that when I did have lights turned on in the room, it was clear the Carada 1.4 gain had the best picture. The pearlescent was brighter, but had a sparkly, artificial look. I have light tan walls and a white ceiling, since my projector is my main TV in my living room.

As to subduing colors, here is one of the reviews posted on this forum that show how grey subdues colors. In the second series of pictuers, there is a red flower that is so subdued on the grey screen, that you could almost miss it, if you didn't know it was there: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=262466&highlight=silver+white+grey+review

I have an IN76 and I would never use a grey screen for my application which is 117" diagonal in a tan room. Like Tnedator, I use the IN76 for HDTV 50% of the time also.

I experimented for many months with samples from numerous manufacturers. I wound up doing my own thing since only a couple of screens bested what I had done myself. I use a white surface and I have tried shades of silver and grey. Silvers worked well for my last low lumen PJ with the large screen. I have never met a grey screen I like and I have not had a guest pick a grey over any other white either.

k

I'm using my IN76 on a Da-Lite 110" HCCV. Before that I was projecting it onto the white semi-gloss painted walls. The HCCV in my case dropped the black level substantially and to my eyes did not adversly impact the color. I do see some some of the sparkle mentioned by others on large areas of white, but the trade off to me is worth it for the increased black level. Here's an awkward shot I took the other night (no tripod and it ended up at an odd angle). The camera imparts a tiny bit of red and grain that isn't the actual image, but you can get an idea of how it looks.

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h312/jeahrens/kong.jpg

Did you mean ABT102 card? I don't see a ABT106 card on their website. I thought the VP30 does a poor job with 1080i material, it throws away half the resolution then scales back up to 720P. The IN76 uses Pixelworks’™ DNX and does proper 1080i without throwing away resolution. Did you mean 480i video material because that is when the VP30 with ABT102 card would help.

I did a type it is ABT102. The basic VP30 does a poor job with the 1080i but this is why you need to add the ABT102 de-interlacing card.

Benoit

I did a type it is ABT102. The basic VP30 does a poor job with the 1080i but this is why you need to add the ABT102 de-interlacing card.

Benoit


I think you might be a little confused. The ABT102 is only for 480i/576i deinterlacing. It has no effect on 1080i material. You would be better off letting the IN76 do the deinterlacing and scaling for 1080i material.
http://www.dvdo.com/pro/pro_acc_abt-102.php

Yes, I got samples from da-lite and Carada. As you know, it is hard to compare small patches, because a white and grey put up at the same time pretty much always favor the grey.

What ultimately made my mind up (in addition to the link I am adding below), was the fact that when I did have lights turned on in the room, it was clear the Carada 1.4 gain had the best picture. The pearlescent was brighter, but had a sparkly, artificial look. I have light tan walls and a white ceiling, since my projector is my main TV in my living room.

As to subduing colors, here is one of the reviews posted on this forum that show how grey subdues colors. In the second series of pictuers, there is a red flower that is so subdued on the grey screen, that you could almost miss it, if you didn't know it was there: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=262466&highlight=silver+white+grey+review

Only when the brighter picture is shown right next to it. There is no difference with a greyscreen in a dark room than a dimmer projector.

This is the exact same sales technique speaker sellers use - the louder speaker sells next to the quieter speaker.

And yes I am talking about that review - as well as the SilverStar ad that uses the same pictures.

White is the brightest thing you see. The moon is the exact same brightness during the day as at night - but you would swear it is brilliant at night and dirty grey during the day. The same thing applies to colors - the brighter color will be more vivid.

Try this test yourself to simulate a grey screen. Flick to High Power mode and watch everything get brighter more colorful (You can also crank up white peaking - but that disturbs the gamma curve and is not as effective trick). Watch a movie that way (ear plugs to avoid the fan!) Then switch back to low power - immediately you will notice that the whites are grey and colors are subdued. But watch a full movie then rinse and repeat - and you soon realize you are fooling your eye temporarily. Without comparison brightness is literally in the eye of the beholder.

The proper way to test screen materials is full screen movie length if you can. Of course not even dealers like to carry that many screens. So you do the next best thing - order 1-2' cut sheets (not the tiny samples). double sticky tape them to black poster board so each has a significant black border. View them sequentially for significant amounts of time. I have done this test - and nobody can pick out the grey screen - until I lift the sample and put it on top of the white screen. Immediately the dull dirty grey blah color comments come out - BUT only in the simultaneous adjacent comparisons!

The only time you want to stack samples on each other is once you have decided on the gain that is best - and you want to directly compare gain claims against your installed projector and viewing angles. Indeed is the gain screen brighter at your seat than another gain screen - or is it only brighter at the walls or on the ceiling?

I can do the same tricks with Vutec Silver Star vs. High Power - one screen is for ceiling mount the other is for table mount. Two Projectors (table/ceiling) - two screens. I can always make the other screen be the drab screen and the other screen be the brilliant screen. One just needs to stand up to shift viewing angles. Very effective demonstration how improper testing can fool the eye. You will never watch the installed screen with a brighter (or darker) screen sample pasted on it - so why in the world would you want to sample screens that way?

Now if indeed you want a large plasmer TV in an ambient room - you want all the gain you can get. I would go even higher gain and smaller screen for that! I use a 60" Vutec SilverStar as my plasmer TV.

The proper way to test screen materials is full screen movie length if you can. Of course not even dealers like to carry that many screens. So you do the next best thing - order 1-2'' cut sheets (not the tiny samples). double sticky tape them to black poster board so each has a significant black border. View them sequentially.
.

feet = '
inches = " I know kras meant feet above.

I respect your opinion kras. But whom am I to believe? A load of others reviews or my own lying eyes?

I prefer white screen with my IN76 even in a tan room with white ceilings. I posted my screen wall in this thread earlier. It works for me and mine.

k

I would only trust reviews that have tested screens properly. Every screen review I have seen has commented on side by side comparisons. I test screens properly and have conducted proper shootouts - people soon realize that comparisons fool the eye - and you can make that comparison go either way.

If I wanted to sell you a gain screen when you thought you wanted a grey screen - I could. If I wanted to sell you a grey screen when you thought you wanted a gain screen - I could. I understand screen science and psychovisual phenomana - and can set up a comparison that will bias you however I want.

Once you start testing screens properly - you realize that grey vs. white vs. silver is irrelavent (in a blackout room - they have differences in ambient rooms). What matters is getting the proper gain surface that is suitable for size, viewing angles, and projector install that does not have any objectional screen surface artifacts. And that is what I do - narrow down the screen surfaces to the required gain range - then sequentially test them. I have never had anyone able to identify the base shade of the screen. They just comment on surface differences - which is the way a screen review should be written.


Anyone have AVIA - here is a simple test.

Put up the pluge pattern that is the near black bars with the 50% white. Stare at the white long enough you will convince yourself that it is white.

Now switch to the near black bars with the 100% white. Notice the near black bars appear blacker. (This is not possible on a linear display like DLP). Stare at it long enough. Now switch immediately back to the 50% white. You will realize it was grey when you thought it was white before.

Hello together,

I finally got to measure the contrast / zoom ratio.

At minimum Zoom our test machine reaches 1800:1 (@ D65). So you can gain some contrast by using the minimal zoom.

HOWEVER, at the same time, you lose about 14% of light. The Lumen go down from 800 to 690 (Hi mode) or 580 to 500 (Low mode).

I added a small table to our review, which is now available in english language :

www.cine4home.com


Best Regards,
Ekkehart, www.cine4home.de

Ekkehart

A hint for your translator - Cyanide is a deadly poison. blue-green color is actually called Cyan!

Ekkehart

A hint for your translator - Cyanide is a deadly poison. blue-green color is actually called Cyan!


OOPs :p but hey, if you swallow that color-wheel with cyan segments, I am sure it won't be healthy either... :p

I asked this earlier but never got an answer. By minimum zoom do you mean the lens is zoomed out to its maximum (i.e. the projector is as close as possible to the screen)? Or the opposite? Thanks.

Minimum zoom means the projector is as far away as possible. Max zoom means it is as close as possible.

this is a stretch, but in wonder if fan speed/noise has anything to do with zoom. reason i ask is, my in76 is pretty loud compared to my in72. my in76 is zoomed out to the max, and my in72 is zoomed in to the max.

Sorry to change the topic for a short time, but I had a quick question for the knowledgable members.

I wanted to get feedback about the best connections. Does using an HDMI cable with appropriate adapters to the PJ give a better result than connection via component video?

Thanks for the feedback and now back to the present topic in this thread.

Does using an HDMI cable with appropriate adapters to the PJ give a better result than connection via component video?Yes.

But you don't need "adapters". Just get the right cable, ie. HDMI-HDMI, HDMI-M1, DVI-M1, etc., in the first place.

FWIW I found the offset to be around 8%, not the 15% stated in the IF specs.

I know this is old post, but...

I'm also finding the offset to be roughly 8 to 9% on the replacement IN76 I just received - far from the 16% spec. My screen is 80x45. Completely filled and with blank image as square as I can make it, I'm measuring the offset to be about 4" - around 1/2 of expected 7.2".

No biggie, but interesting - as long as it doesn't vary over time...

The IN76 spec is brighter than the IN72. That may explain it.
this is a stretch, but in wonder if fan speed/noise has anything to do with zoom. reason i ask is, my in76 is pretty loud compared to my in72. my in76 is zoomed out to the max, and my in72 is zoomed in to the max.

Does anyone with an IN72 notice that the blacks are being crushed out of the box? I had to play with my contrast and brightness settings to get black detail. I have the latest firmware.

geez, duh. lol. why didn't i think of that. thanks for pointing that out. lol.

Does anyone with an IN72 notice that the blacks are being crushed out of the box? I had to play with my contrast and brightness settings to get black detail. I have the latest firmware.

i thought that at first. in fact i thought CR was worse than the 4805 for the first few hours. but, i racked up some quick hours early on and decided blacks were awesome.

Does anyone with an IN72 notice that the blacks are being crushed out of the box? I had to play with my contrast and brightness settings to get black detail. I have the latest firmware.

I seem to recall that it was adjusted for a reference source at defaults (that is black is at 7.5IRE or #16). Your source must not be that reference - but nothing ever is which is why those controls are there in the first place. Those controls are also usually found on players as well - which means they might be adjustable to a reference.

The new firmware corrects an issue of dithering blue blacks (which requires calibration to fix otherwise)

I know this is old post, but...

I'm also finding the offset to be roughly 8 to 9% on the replacement IN76 I just received - far from the 16% spec. My screen is 80x45. Completely filled and with blank image as square as I can make it, I'm measuring the offset to be about 4" - around 1/2 of expected 7.2".

No biggie, but interesting - as long as it doesn't vary over time...

I suggest you follow JeffKB posts after that last one - he discovered he was wrong. He can tell you what the issue was...

I suggest you follow JeffKB posts after that last one - he discovered he was wrong. He can tell you what the issue was...
Hi jkim5453 - Kras is referring to the fact that I discovered that the projector was not completely level, it was tilted up slightly (I placed a small level on it). Since my image was square on the wall, this puzzled me a bit. I then took a level to the screen wall and discovered it was slightly off from plum. I had intended to level the projector and then try to move the bottom of my screen in/out to confirm I could get the 16% offset, but I never did do that.

I would try the same tests on your setup and see what you find. :)

Contrast is better than the 4805, and that may cause the black crush problem with some sources. I definately had to play with the contrast /brightness and all the detail came out. YMMV depending on the source.

Also, If I calibrate for my DVD player will the settings hold for the cable box? How can you calibrate for a non dvd device....?

i thought that at first. in fact i thought CR was worse than the 4805 for the first few hours. but, i racked up some quick hours early on and decided blacks were awesome.

Yes.

But you don't need "adapters". Just get the right cable, ie. HDMI-HDMI, HDMI-M1, DVI-M1, etc., in the first place.

I appreciate your response. Could you tell me to the best of your abilities how significant the difference is? Is it somewhat minor, or is the difference quite significant? When I went from S video to Component, the difference was pretty significant. Would it be a comparable upgrade in performance or less signficant?

Sorry about using the word significant so much!

Thanks once again.

Sorry to change the topic for a short time, but I had a quick question for the knowledgable members.

I wanted to get feedback about the best connections. Does using an HDMI cable with appropriate adapters to the PJ give a better result than connection via component video?

Thanks for the feedback and now back to the present topic in this thread.
This also depends upon your source. The HDMI on my HD Tivo is much better than component. At 480p, the HDMI on my DVD player is not really that much better than component.

micriobioligist

you should avoid adaptors because the signal integrity of digital cable is low - beyond 10m you start to get digital snow - just like the 70's TV snow! Adaptors make that worse.

However if you are pulling inwall cables use a HDMI with adaptors - the other ones will never pull thru! Just be aware you may have signal integrity issues because of it - and especially since inwall cable pulls are normally long.

You have to compare HDMI vs. component yourself - it all depends if the display or the source is better at video processing.

Hi jkim5453 - Kras is referring to the fact that I discovered that the projector was not completely level, it was tilted up slightly (I placed a small level on it). Since my image was square on the wall, this puzzled me a bit. I then took a level to the screen wall and discovered it was slightly off from plum. I had intended to level the projector and then try to move the bottom of my screen in/out to confirm I could get the 16% offset, but I never did do that.

I would try the same tests on your setup and see what you find. :)

Thanks, both. I admit I hadn't fussed over too much to make sure everything was as close to being square/plum/level as I can make it. In fact, my observation was with the IN76 table-top. Been so busy that the new Chief RPA-U had been collecting dust for over a month. I finally got around ceiling-mounting it yesterday but still only had time to just eye-ball it - good enough to sit back and enjoy a movie. Next weekend, I'll get out the level and get serious. :D

Overall, I'm not too worried about getting the spec'ed offset itself. The combination of the mount, adjustable extension rod, lateral shift accessory, and the way I currently have the screen hanging from the ceiling, etc., allows enough adjustment flexibility to get a square-enough looking picture, and I don't really care if that end-result is with a 8% offset or 16% offset as long as long as the screen ends up at the height I can be happy with and perceive uniform focus across the viewing area. What caused a brief panic attack was a thought that the replacement unit might have something misaligned in the optical path. I see nothing in the PQ to suggest anything like that, so it's all good for now. :)

Now, if only InFocus would update the firmware so each input port keeps separate settings for different signal types...

Do most peoples projector (IN76) fan stay on low if the projector is on for hours? It is ceiling mounted but it seems like it always ends up in high. It is 2 ft below the ceiling and has no blockages on any side (the back is the closest but no air vents back there).

EEBuckeye

I think it has been determined that there are several levels within low/hi power themselves. The unanswered question is does the algorithm change for ceiling mount sensing - or is it just temp sensing - only Bob Williams can say!

EEBuckeye

I think it has been determined that there are several levels within low/hi power themselves. The unanswered question is does the algorithm change for ceiling mount sensing - or is it just temp sensing - only Bob Williams can say!

I've had the IN76 table-top for quite some time, and now it's ceiling-mounted. As far as I can tell, after it's been on for a while - say one hour - the fan noise is equally much louder, table-top or ceiling-mounted, than the first few minutes. In either case, if you put it to high-power mode, the fan noise becomes even louder. I'm pretty sure it's temperature-sensing.

I hadn't bothered to measure if it reaches the louder state quicker when ceiling mounted because, well, why bother? :) .

The noise kinda bothers me and I contacted Infocus who says it does not sound like it is cooling correctly. I find this hard to believe and I do not want to send it back to them just to get it back in the same condition. I really think it is working correctly but I'm just a disappointed coming from my old projector.

I just cancelled my order for a Samsung H710AE due to startup issues. Therefore, I am now considering an IN76. My impression is that the IN76 must be either ceiling mounted slightly above the top of the screen or table mounted slightly below the bottom of the screen. Can the IN76 be bookshelf mounted in the middle of the screen with the centerline of the lens exactly in line with the centerline of the screen?

No it can not be mounted in the center of the screen. There is no lens shift.

Hi All,
Just a quick question as to the compatibility of the IN76 to my loft. The loft is plenty long and wide enough but im slightly concerned about my ceiling height. The ceiling is only 8ft. Id like to do a tabletop install from 14'...will this work?

Regards,
Ricky

The noise kinda bothers me and I contacted Infocus who says it does not sound like it is cooling correctly. I find this hard to believe and I do not want to send it back to them just to get it back in the same condition. I really think it is working correctly but I'm just a disappointed coming from my old projector.

Although it's a big improvement over my 4805, and the IN76 noise doesn't bother me 90% of my viewing time, I, too, was expecting it to be quieter than it is.

The "quieter in high-power mode than 4805 in low-power mode" statement had my hopes up too high. But in all fairness, that statement was made before the product's release. Since then, perhaps some observations and decisions were made, marketing or engineering or testing or otherwise, that prompted InFocus to up the lamp price (some of you will remember when IN7x lamps were once listed at much lower price than it currently is,) eliminate the longer extended lamp warranties, up the standard lamp warranty to 6 months, and tweak the final firmware to run the fans a bit higher than the engineers had originally hoped and retain the marketing spec of 3000 hr. lamp life.

Still, I notice the noise from my refridge in the adjacent kitchen far more than the PJ noise which bothers me only a tad bit late at night when everyone else is in bed so I have to turn the receiver volume waaay down. :)

Just out of curiosity, how many of you would willingly accept a 2000 hr. average lamp life at a significantly lower fan noise - if and only if the PJ would still be operable at a "safe" condition (i.e. not melt down and burn the house down)?

I think Infocus elimiinating the three year lamp warranty was a no brainer. It was pretty much guaranteed that everyone would need a new lamp in three years - and when it cost less than a lamp.

Of course buying the lamp warranty if you can find one is a no-brainer. It is pretty much guaranteed you need a new lamp in three years - and it cost less than a lamp.

:D

Anyways I think you just need to read the spendy projector forum about quiet projectors that overheat and burn-up lamps well before life. There are always trade-offs to be had.

I agree.. the projector is working great as designed and has an outstanding picture that looks calibrated out of the box. Unfortunately, I am bothered by the noise probably just due to the fact I could not hear my last projector. I will probably end up selling this unit and moving to another projector that is quieter. It has no dead pixels, etc... but I think I need to move on. I know I'm going to take a decent hit on this...

Where would you recommend selling a projector with less than 30 hours?

Thanks for the help!

AVS classified - but you have to pony up $30 for club membership.

Try www.audiogon.com
It'll cost you only $3 !

I think Videogon is free right now.

Regards,
Ricky

Well I just had my second IN76 die on me last night. Was playing my 360 and all of the sudden it just shut off. Now if won't even get power and the green light won't even come on. I'm wondering if it was because I put it on high power mode. I've already had to get one replaced for the same reason. When I got my replacement back I told myself I wasn't going to put in in high power mode again. Everything ran fine for three months then last night I decided I would try it again (big mistake) and after about an hour and a half it died. I've got plenty of ventilation on all sides. It's about a foot from the ceiling as it is flush mounted to the ceiling with the ceiling mount from Infocus that is recommended by Infocus on their website. I installed it exactly as the instructions said to and I keep my house between 72 and 75 degrees. Has anyone else had this problem? I think its a overheating thing but I don't see how I am doing anything out of the ordinary as I mounted it exactly as the instructions indicated and I have proper ventilation. Maybe the temperature sensor isn't working properly. Regardless I will never turn it on high power mode again (and this time I mean it).

I have an unsubstantiated claim of a customer who's IN76 refused to work through any of his surge protectors (but he never tried without one either). But it worked fine in the store. Don't know if it was a ploy to get his money back (which I did) or it's true.

I've tried mine through three surge protectors and two wall outlets. I wish it was the surge protector.

that prompted InFocus to up the lamp price (some of you will remember when IN7x lamps were once listed at much lower price than it currently is,) eliminate the longer extended lamp warranties, up the standard lamp warranty to 6 months, and tweak the final firmware to run the fans a bit higher than the engineers had originally hoped and retain the marketing spec of 3000 hr. lamp life.

I don't see how this could be the case considering the fact that IF stated the 3000hr lamp life remained the same for both high power and low power modes.

Anyone know where Bob Williams has gone ? He seemed to be much more active around here before and during the the new IN lineup release...but now, no more Bob...

Anyone know where Bob Williams has gone ?Bob hasn't posted anything, anywhere, on AVS since April 21st. That's too long for a vacation! :confused:

Yes but CEDIA is just around the corner - I would prefer Bob is off working on 1080P DLP myself! :D

I would prefer Bob is off working on 1080P DLP myself!Well, that would be a decidedly positive explanation! ;) Have you spoken to him lately to know all is well?

no inside info here...

Its quite simple to me. Bob is a development engineer, not a post-sales guy. For the 3 years I've been on this forum, he pops up frequently just before and immediate after a new product launch and then is on to the next new thing. Unless there is a major problem or enhancement. Which is exactly how it should be.

i also had my in76 die on me after about a week
i usually have my ac running but for some reason i left it off one day
while playing the xbox360 it just died
no power, no green light, nothing
im not sure if it was on high power or not
with the new unit, i always have the ac on, no matter how hot or cold
other than that, the projector is great

I just cancelled my order for a Samsung H710AE due to startup issues. Therefore, I am now considering an IN76. My impression is that the IN76 must be either ceiling mounted slightly above the top of the screen or table mounted slightly below the bottom of the screen. Can the IN76 be bookshelf mounted in the middle of the screen with the centerline of the lens exactly in line with the centerline of the screen?

Can it....sure. But you'll need to use keystone correction to get a square image. AFAIK, all projectors in this price range have an upward angle throw. (or downward, if ceiling mounted)

Brycov,

You should NEVER use keystone correction, EVER! It degrades the picture quality. OK, you can use it for power point presentations but not HT;-)

The 710 can be mounted anywhere within the screen to slightly above or below it. It was designed to be in the dead center of screen. Not usually ideal for FP but for RP it works great. The Infocus 76 has an offset and needs to be mounted above the screen for a ceiling mount.

I would pick a projector that best suits your application. The 710 would work for you if they correct the issues. Other PJ's that would fit your needs off the top of my head would be the Panny AE-900, Marantz VP8600, or some of the other LCD's or more expensive DLPs. There are probably many I don't know about.

BTW, I am a an Infocus fan and the IN76 is great PJ. Infocus is our best selling line of PJs. However, I just don't think it is right for your application if that is where you need to mount it.

Bob

I finally gave up on the Samsung H710AE (due to startup issues that Samsung is just now starting to address). I decided that peace of mind about not having to worry if the projector would start up every time was very important to me. Yesterday, I ordered an IN76 through Jason at AVS. I highly recommend that you contact Jason if you need audio/video equipment as he is very knowledgeable and easy to work with.

Therefore, I've also abandoned my initial requirement to center mount the projector and I will ceiling mount it so that I do not use any keystoning correction whatsoever. I will then mount my Stewart Studiotech 130 screen centering it on my projected picture location. Thanks to all who responded to my question as to could I center mount the IN76.

I don't blame you for giving up on the Samsung. We have decided not to sell them as a company as well. We only have one customer (thankfully) who still wants to wait on the Samsung. You'll enjoy the IN76.

does anyone have some custom timings they can share to get 720p at 47.952

what should the porch, synch, and polarity values be? I tried using powerstrip starting at a predefined 720p 50hz profile than dropping the refresh but it started overscanning and I decided I better ask for some advice before I mess with it any further.

I'm using IN76, 7600gs.

I am still looking for a720P projector and the IN76 is at the top of my list. I had to rule out the HD72 because of its large offset, I believe the HD72 is over 130% and the IN76 ~116%. Also the HD72 throw ratio is not as large as I would like. I would like it to be close to 2. (HD72 = 1.88, IN76 = 1.94). One thing that was interesting was when I looked at the projector calculator on Projector Central. For the HD72 in video/Movie mode for a 50” high 1.4 gain screen the FTL was only 22. For the IN76 it was 34. Now this may be a bug in their program. I don’t think the difference between BOB & Weave for 1080P is going to be that big of a deal for me since I believe my DVDO HD+ video processor will do a BOB on 1080i. So if there are no new 720P projectors with better numbers it looks like the IN76 for me.

Hi guys,

I use my IN76 with the OPDV971H DVD-player.
Is there anyway to make the subtitles on my DVD's smaller ?
Also, I use a 16:9 screen. However, when projecting 16:9 material it doesn't fill the screen from border to border. Whatever setting I use ( overscan ... crop ... ), I always end up with two small black ( projected black ) borders on the sides. When I set up the projector so that the splash screen goes from broder to border on the sides, I end up with black borders when feeding 16:9 material. Any ideas ???

Greetz, Kris.

For IN76 owners:

Do any of the aspect ratio modes horizontally squish a 16:9 image down to a 4:3 image?

(i.e. feed it a 16:9 signal and put it in 4:3 mode?)

Kris, I have the same DVD player paired with the InFocus 4805. There was mention of an "underscan" issue with the OPPO for the 480p users but if I recall, those with a 720p pj didn't have that issue. Is your OPPO set for 720P? If not, try that. Good luck.

Whatever setting I use, I always end up with two small black borders on the sides.Are you using an analog connection? I've noticed DVI is the same size as the splash/blank screens but analog has margins.

I have underscan with my Panasonic S97. Even when I turn overscan onto zoom, I still have a black border on both sides (about 3 pixels.) A black border on the top and bottom, even on 1.85:1, is natural on a 1.78:1 screen. I know it's not the input because my Xbox 360 fills the entire screen through the same input (using a component switchbox.)

All:

First of all, I'm a new forum member who has recently decided to take the plunge and purchased an IN76 for my (new) dedicated media room. I got it Friday. Thanks to all the commenters here -- I followed this thread for a long time before making a decision.

Don't get me started about how the other equipment hasn't arrived, etc., yet. But I have a problem with the IN76 and I'm hoping for some help. I've scanned the posts here and can find no resolution.

I am apparently a victim of the "lockup with all other video sources deselected except HDMI" problem that's fixed in the firmware update. I didn't get an HDMI signal until I disabled all other video sources. When I did, HDMI started working. And then I cycled the power. And now nothing works. The only way I can turn the PJ off is by unplugging it. No inputs, from the buttons on top or from the remote, cause anything to happen.

It just sits there with the InFocus logo blaring at me.

So I have some questions:

1. Is there a master reset that I can use -- i.e., one that's not software controlled -- since I can't get to any of the menus?

2. I fully intend to upgrade the firmware at my earliest convenience, though I'm having trouble finding the proprietary cable for same locally. And I'm also wondering if anyone can tell me definitively whether the projector will even take the upgrade in its current condition. If it's not responding to external stimulus, will it see the formware update?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I want so much to like this projector -- and what I've seen of it is impressive. But -- well, dead in the water after a day of ownership isn't.

Thanks,

MHP

MHP. Here is the original fix for your problem posted by ihavecookie. It appears his attachement is still accessible.


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7474302&&#post7474302

Mike

Mike N Ike:

Thanks. Am trying it now.

WIll report back -- initial attempt a failure, but at least I saw a menu and could select things. An improvement.

Thanks for the amazingly quick response.

MHP

It took me several tries to get it. When they said you have 20 seconds they weren't kidding!

Mike

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
EDIT: Welcome to the AVS Club!

Success!

Thanks, guys.

Am very relieved.

There's still a firmware update in my future.

Hi,

Thanks for the help.

I use 720p DVI connection with PAL DVD's. I keep having black borders left and right.

And what about the subtitles ? Is there any way to make subtitles smaller ?


Kris.

the borders on the left and right are most likely the keystoning bug. are you using any keystoning? it's supposed be fixed in an upcoming firmware release.

Yes, I use keystone. You are probably right cause I seem to remember I didn't have the problem when testing from tabletop when I didn't use keystone.

Do you know if there is a way to resize the subtitles from a DVD either by using the IN76 setting or the OPPO settings ?

Thanks, Kris

Unless you can adjust the size of the text on the subtitles AT THE SOURCE, you cannot adjust them using the IN76.

what of thoughts of this?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=687410

Well unfortunately the English is hard to read. It sounds like you are seeing an after image of some kind. I'm no expert but I don't think projector would be the culprit. The DLP mechanism would have to stick on momentarily (which from what I have read the mirrors usually stick on and stay stuck) or it would have to have an error in a frame buffer (not sure it even has one). I have not observed an odd after images on my projector for what it's worth.

I can make a small video of little second ones in order makes to see what happens you .
I hope that to the enginering of the infocus it does not take a blow:)

sorry for my bad english :)

raiden, that thread is very difficult to read, let alone understand exactly what the problem is. i'm certain however this is an isolated incident (if it's even an infocus problem at all in the first place). there are many IN76 owners here including myself who do not see any type of ghosting, or image lag mentioned in that thread.

My old Zenith Dvb-318 DVD player had a slight ghost effect, (noticeable in Fade to blck type scenes) on my Optoma PJ. My newer Oppo does not. Maybe it's from the source?

IN76 works from God on all the rest. i am very happy

I repeat: HALO3 trailer announcement + 360 xbox + component + 720p
The same trailer download from bungie.net site + dvi cable+ notebook works well. :)
same trailer other VPR no problem

task that to infocus would have to take one xbxo 360 and to see with their eyes.

Between some day place the mini-movie one and so will be able to see all

and sorry for my bad english, I am alone trying to give one hand for the good of all

I am italian :) :)

I give for discounted that all you directly know that xbox360 the discharge on the hard disk the trailer from Internet (xbox-live-marketplace) source is xbox 360 720p with cable component

RAIDEN can you try altavista babelfish for translation - hard time following your fractured english!


http://babelfish.altavista.com/

This is how it translated your post back - does it make any sense?

Dò per scontato che tutti voi direttamente sanno che xbox360 lo scarico sul disco rigido il rimorchio dalla fonte del Internet (xbox-viv-mercato) è xbox 360 720p con il componente del cavo

His English is much better than my Italian and the human brain is much more sophisticated than Babelfish. Just to show you what I mean, here is his original post translated from the Italian:
The visible bug e' after 1 filmato minute and 57 second ones approximately of such when the super laser shoots and the screen becomes all white man, endured after it would have to become all black with the cortana voice that says a phrase, however remains on black background a ball impressed white woman much luminous one for some second, cio it would not have to happen if you want to understand as the corrected mink must be reproduced must execute such filmato with the PC and quicktime, since puo also to be unloaded via web. I imagine that in analogous conditions that is scenes where there are great flash white men of the screen the bug can be reproduced but I do not have currently material in order to verify it. I soon hope that infocus fixi to piu the this bug as it has made in passed for the previous models of VPR in the wait of the complete game (has it 3) that portebbe to introduce piu filmati scenes similar to this in the spectacular ones that leaves to intuire of having, I hope that for the date of escape of the game this bug is fixato and people can themselves be enjoyed such game with this splendito vpr (infocus IN76) Hello to all and see if someone of infocus that it has the square balls reads this message and it passes it to who of competence in order to resolve all.

hour they are successful makes to understand you?
after the flash-white a shielded black-complete must come and it does not have to remain no point of light white in the screen

(remame rar at zip if not open)

infocus needed take an xbox 360 e test this

I think he's talking about the Halo 3 trailer available from Xbox 360's Marketplace.

After the most recent dash update, there's a glitch in the video. Where there used to be a few seconds of black, there is now a small blue/white blob dead center in the screen during those few seconds.

This is not a problem with the projector, but rather a software glitch with playback of that video.

Hey all,

Just wanted to say I recently purchased my IN76.

The pros:

+ Out of the box amazing picture calibration. There's something incredible about having amazing picture without a single setting being tweaked. This really is the most important bit. I ran the projector through a battery of test patterns at 720p which it passed with flying colors (no pun intended), but most importantly the images were just jaw-droppingly beautiful.

+ The industrial design from the case to the remote to the layout of the menus is all well done and makes the projector feel like in belongs in the theatre, not just a tool to throw pixels on the screen.

+ The price for performance is unmatched with any other projector I've seen first hand.

The in-betweens:

The fan noise wasn't as noticeable as people led me to believe. In low power mode on a shelf, it was inaudible when playing content at a realistic volume, especially compared to the 360. Mounted on a ceiling in high power mode the fan noise became somewhat noticeable, but disappeared from notice after a few minutes of watching a movie at typical levels.

Low power mode looks great out of the box. High power mode only makes an incremental (but still positive) difference. All things being equal, I'd like to use high power mode all the time as it supposedly doesn't affect lamp life, but then that means dealing with higher fan noise.

Ceiling mounting was a fairly painful process, partly due to the off-center lens and stud placement in my ceiling. After one attempt and getting it not quite right, I had to make a guess as to the second placement, and luckily nailed it. The Infocus branded ceiling mount was not a joy to work with, but can't imagine other mounts being all that much better.

The cons:

- After only 17 hours of viewing, the projector has developed a flicker in low power mode. I've seen other posters mention this, and the workaround of flipping to high power mode does indeed fix the problem. However I'm not going to just chalk this up as acceptable, so I'll be calling Infocus support tomorrow to get it worked out.

- The English documentation included in the package is sparse at best. No care instructions at all. This may be on the CD, but I haven't got around to messing with that yet.

And finally one question: what, if anything, will installing a firmware update do to your warranty?

As a side note, thanks to everyone who has posted in this thread - especially Bob Williams and Krasmuzik. There have been plenty of projectors that had me excited - until I saw them in person - and it was a bit of a let down. The IN76 I bought without ever having viewed first hand, largely due to the confidence inspired by a number of people on this thread. Other than my flicker issue, I couldn't be happier. I'll let you know what Infocus does about that.

Congrats, Jeff! Keep us informed! I am looking to snag this as well. There was just a price drop.

:)

There was just a price drop.Where?

Are you saying the MSRP has been dropped? If so, to what?

The Infocus site shows no change.

I'm glad I haven't experienced any flicker. I am especially sensitive to flicker because of my experience with the Toshiba MT700. Any time there is a fire onscreen, I always have to pause the movie because I am afraid the projector is flickering. One thing I did notice that I never noticed before is that when I'm watching DVDs on older or lower quality movies I can see occasional flickers from film exposure. Now that's a lot of detail!

at least one site sponser has dropped the price to around the same street price as it's main competitor thr hd72,,,,

Thats an impressive price drop, It's actually enough to get me into the IN76 over the IN72.

Made my Monday!

Jessica :)

There's a sponsor linked through another Home theater site that has the lower price too.
When U r a hair inder $2k seems like a done deal...

That is a very good price, but then prices change everyday. Have you seen the price of HD7100 lately on another forum sponsor's site?

jeffsul

the flicker goes away in high power trick is a solution not a workaround. The idea is to leave it in high power for a while to burn-in the lamp differently for a while - then go back to low power and the flicker will be gone.

I had the same problem in my demo unit and that solution worked.

rickster, it's around $2900 and then there's the $300 rebate good until the 30th.

can anyone confirm that the IN76 can vertically stretch HD signals?

can anyone confirm that the IN76 can vertically stretch HD signals?
It does. I have a Panamorph and use the letterbox mode to vertically stretch 2.35:1 OTA HD and HD-DVD.

It does. I have a Panamorph and use the letterbox mode to vertically stretch 2.35:1 OTA HD and HD-DVD.
Jeff,

Does this "Stretch" work for both HDMI and Component inputs?

Sure does. I use HDMI for HD-DVD and component for OTA HD and both work fine. :)

Sure does. I use HDMI for HD-DVD and component for OTA HD and both work fine. :)
Great. I had heard differently and the manual a bit hard to tell.

Great. I had heard differently and the manual a bit hard to tell.
Bob Williams had stated that the IN76 supports the stretch on all inputs and at all resolutions. Based on what I've seen, I haven't found anything to prove that statement false. :)

Thanks everyone. That's great to know. I am officially sold on the IN76 at this point. I too have a panamorph HE lens and just purchased the A1. As much as I've enjoyed my 4805 for the past 2 years it's time to move up to the world of hi-def! I will probably go blu-ray eventually as well....

Also looking forward to enjoying my old dvd's upscaled. Is it really that much of an improvement or will hi-def completely spoil me?....

Also looking forward to enjoying my old dvd's upscaled. Is it really that much of an improvement or will hi-def completely spoil me?....
Regarding the HD-A1, prepare for a near-religious experience watching it on the IN76. :D The level of detail of the new format, coupled with the increased color accuracy and lack of compression noise is really something to behold.

The first disc I watched was Apollo 13. Chapter 3 has Hanks and company talking on a stone road while the rocket is being transported to the tower. You can see each and every rock in the road - and individual leaves in the trees far behind! Even if you're used to HD from OTA broadcasts, the PQ of HD-DVD is better and will stun you at first.

Unfortunately the downside is that once you get used to watching HD-DVD, SD-DVDs will look like absolute garbage - upscaled or not. Even discs previously thought of as reference class will look soft and lacking in color dynamics. I watched a little bit of SW:ANH last night and it was depressing how far short of HD-DVD it was (everything's relative I guess).

Don't listen to those pundits that tell you there's little visible difference between upscaled DVD and HD-DVD. That may be true at 42", but when you're watching a 110"+ screen, the differences are obvious and profound. Even an HD-DVD like The Perfect Storm, which is thought to be mediocre and disappointing, is still FAR better than even the best DVD I've ever seen.

Anyway, I don't know if this post will cheer you up or depress you :D, but I hope you enjoy your new toy. :)

Jeff, as soon as I sell my old PJ, I will be joining you all hopefully in IN76-land!

:)

I too have a panamorph HE lens and just purchased the A1. As much as I've enjoyed my 4805 for the past 2 years it's time to move up to the world of hi-def! I will probably go blu-ray eventually as well....

nghtlver -

I also have a 4805 with the Panamorph UH50 HE lens. Like you, I've found it very satisfying. But, like you, I was giving some thought to moving up to the IN76. Then, when the product hit the street, everyone got suprised by the new, shorter throw. Have you found that to be any problem at all with the Panamorph?

One film I like to show in its OAR is "Ben-Hur". To do that and maintain a CH, I feed component video to the projector ... which enables me to repo the image to the very top of the frame. I then zoom out the lens just enough to acheive the larger, wider 2.76 AR yet fill the entire (well, almost) height of the screen. But in doing so, I'm most certainly approaching the left/right edges of the prisms in the HE lens.

So I'm wondering, where are you positioning your zoom lens when you use the projector with the HE lens? And has this shorter throw been any problem at all?

hconwell-

I havent received the IN76 at the moment as I've been doing a little research on the unit to see if it's what I really want so I can't comment on the shorter throw as of yet. (Just ordered one though and got a great price!) .Perhaps JeffKB can comment on this since you are using a panamorph HE lens with the IN76?

However I was definitely concerned about that very issue. But from what I can tell at Projector Central (calculator), the throw didn't appear to be much different from the 4805, albeit a tad shorter. Someone correct me if I'm wrong! I was hoping this wasn't going to be a problem. I definitely plan on using the HE lens for 2:35.1 films with the IN76. Up till now I've been feeding the 4805 via DVI from an Oppo player using letterbox mode for 2:35.1 (or wider) with the lens and getting pretty good results (as best as can be expected from standard def). I've watched Ben Hur with slight black bars at the top and bottom with this setup which really didn't bother me. Not exactly conforming to the rules of 'constant height' but close enough! I find image quality slightly better via DVI.

JeffKB

Thanks for the brutally honest advisory! I was expecting as much but I can see I will be selling off alot of old dvd's in the near future *winks*. Although I think I can soldier through watching alot of my old discs on occasion.

thanks again everyone!

Don't listen to those pundits that tell you there's little visible difference between upscaled DVD and HD-DVD. That may be true at 42", but when you're watching a 110"+ screen, the differences are obvious and profound. Even an HD-DVD like The Perfect Storm, which is thought to be mediocre and disappointing, is still FAR better than even the best DVD I've ever seen.
I think it's ridiculous that people say you can't tell a difference at 27". I can tell the difference between SD and HD at that size. Do people need giant glasses?

Firmware release V2.4 is out:

# Improved fan control and audible noise
# Keystoning improved in ceiling mode
# Resolved image shift with 480i/576i signals
# Resolved compatiblity issues with Panasonic DVD-297 DVD player with HDMI.
# Splash screen expanded to fill 16:9 space.
# Fixed issue where the projector would stop sub-source searching on the M1-DA connector if all sources except M1-DA are disabled.
# Fixed a hue shift issue with some 1080p component sources.

Firmware release V2.4 is out:

# Improved fan control and audible noise
# Keystoning improved in ceiling mode
# Resolved image shift with 480i/576i signals
# Resolved compatiblity issues with Panasonic DVD-297 DVD player with HDMI.
# Splash screen expanded to fill 16:9 space.
# Fixed issue where the projector would stop sub-source searching on the M1-DA connector if all sources except M1-DA are disabled.
# Fixed a hue shift issue with some 1080p component sources.
Hmmm....."Improved fan control and audible noise". That has me more than a little interested. Fan noise is the only gripe (albeit minor) that I have with the IN76. If this new release results in noticeable improvements in that area, that'd be great news.

Who wants to be the guinea pig to do the upgrade and put it to the test?

Jeff, as soon as I sell my old PJ, I will be joining you all hopefully in IN76-land!

:)
Hi Dave - I think you'll be impressed. It seems like a great time to buy one, there's some excellent deals now.

Enjoy!

I think it's ridiculous that people say you can't tell a difference at 27". I can tell the difference between SD and HD at that size. Do people need giant glasses?
Agreed.
:)

Who wants to be the guinea pig to do the upgrade and put it to the test?
my, :)



my problems is the enliglish language :) but try to speak equally :)

Anyone care to lay odds on whether InFocus will do a $300 rebate on the IN76 the way they are for the IN72?

Firmware release V2.4 is out:

# Improved fan control and audible noise
# Keystoning improved in ceiling mode
# Resolved image shift with 480i/576i signals
# Resolved compatiblity issues with Panasonic DVD-297 DVD player with HDMI.
# Splash screen expanded to fill 16:9 space.
# Fixed issue where the projector would stop sub-source searching on the M1-DA connector if all sources except M1-DA are disabled.
# Fixed a hue shift issue with some 1080p component sources.

What's involved in the FW upgrade? Is this a DIY job with home pc or do you need to send it in to IF? Thanks in advance :)

I'm curious as to what is meant by, "Improved fan control and audio noise", as well as why the IN72 doesn't get this new firmware?

I am getting slightly used to the noise of my IN72 but would be grateful for anything, new firmware with improved fan control and audio noise for example, that would decrease the noise level.

Anybody got any ideas?
George -bub

unless of course this new firmware degrades the life of the bulb. If it does, I'm all for noise to lengthen its life :)

In my experience I've learned that DLPs in the low cost range typically have a shorter throw distance than the LCD projectors in the same catagory.
So its sort of to be expected when purchasing a DLP or LCD.

Tico@TVauthority.com

hconwell-

I havent received the IN76 at the moment as I've been doing a little research on the unit to see if it's what I really want so I can't comment on the shorter throw as of yet. (Just ordered one though and got a great price!) .Perhaps JeffKB can comment on this since you are using a panamorph HE lens with the IN76?

However I was definitely concerned about that very issue. But from what I can tell at Projector Central (calculator), the throw didn't appear to be much different from the 4805, albeit a tad shorter. Someone correct me if I'm wrong! I was hoping this wasn't going to be a problem. I definitely plan on using the HE lens for 2:35.1 films with the IN76. Up till now I've been feeding the 4805 via DVI from an Oppo player using letterbox mode for 2:35.1 (or wider) with the lens and getting pretty good results (as best as can be expected from standard def). I've watched Ben Hur with slight black bars at the top and bottom with this setup which really didn't bother me. Not exactly conforming to the rules of 'constant height' but close enough! I find image quality slightly better via DVI.

JeffKB

Thanks for the brutally honest advisory! I was expecting as much but I can see I will be selling off alot of old dvd's in the near future *winks*. Although I think I can soldier through watching alot of my old discs on occasion.

thanks again everyone!

I havent received the IN76 at the moment

I'll continue to monitor this thread and perhaps when you get your IN76, you can post any thoughts on how it works with your UH50 lens.

Good luck to you.

Hank Brown

Tico, I emailed you yesterday. And any chance that the IN76 will also get the $300 rebate?
Thanks! dave

unless of course this new firmware degrades the life of the bulb. If it does, I'm all for noise to lengthen its life :)
I used to think that way as well. Now I think I'd rather trade off some hours for quieter operation, say.... 2000 hrs instead of 3000. Of course, I wouldn't want any of those 500 hrs and your lamp dies disasters that some PJs seem to have all too frequently. :)

I wanted to read some information on the IN76 but this thread has 80+ pages. Can a part two of this thread be started?

hyper, good read for a start...
http://www.projectorreviews.com/Manufacturers/infocus/IN76/index.asp

:)

Im in the market for a new projector. This and the Optoma is what I am concentrating most on. I have a totally dark room and 8'7 ceilings. I'm very worried about the fan noise. My mount will be about three feet forward of my seating position. Is the fan noise that noticable? Thanks

I wanted to read some information on the IN76 but this thread has 80+ pages. Can a part two of this thread be started?I guess as the OP in this thread I have some responsibility to present some links and current info right in the first post.

As a start, I've added the current "InFocus Play Big IN76 Projector Review - Overview" provided by Dave Mack above.

I will add more as it comes to me. PM me with any links you think would be appropriate.

hello after much research i am convinced the infocus in72 is the best value bar none. Here are some final questions before pulling the trigger:

1) how reliable is the in72? any early lamp failure issues? how many hours do you guys have so far on the lamp? As a mt700 owner on 5th lamp in 11 month you can see why this is my most important deciding factor on a new projector.

2) i currently have the mt700 ceiling mounted, can i leave the mount alone and just swap the mt700 with the in72 and have it line up correctly to my 92" screen?

3) the $300 infocus rebate ( https://www.infocusrebates.com/start/index.php ) will it work on all authorized resellers online stores? for example there are a couple authorized reseller websites' that are selling for a lot lower than the $1298 msrp, will the rebate still work?

4) i know in72 is 480 but still does hd quite well, as someone used to the mt700 pic quality, how disappointed (or not) will i be in those 3 areas - 4:3 regular tv, dvd, hdtv, switching from mt700 to in72?

thank you for your time
-gaga

I'm curious as to what is meant by, "Improved fan control and audio noise",

I installed the new firmware - NOW it's "whisper quiet". :)

I couldn't believe when I turned it on and could barely tell it was on. Nice. I haven't had it on very long, so I'll see if it ever gets louder...

hello after much research i am convinced the infocus in72 is the best value bar none. Here are some final questions before pulling the trigger:

1) how reliable is the in72? any early lamp failure issues? how many hours do you guys have so far on the lamp? As a mt700 owner on 5th lamp in 11 month you can see why this is my most important deciding factor on a new projector.

2) i currently have the mt700 ceiling mounted, can i leave the mount alone and just swap the mt700 with the in72 and have it line up correctly to my 92" screen?

3) the $300 infocus rebate ( https://www.infocusrebates.com/start/index.php ) will it work on all authorized resellers online stores? for example there are a couple authorized reseller websites' that are selling for a lot lower than the $1298 msrp, will the rebate still work?

4) i know in72 is 480 but still does hd quite well, as someone used to the mt700 pic quality, how disappointed (or not) will i be in those 3 areas - 4:3 regular tv, dvd, hdtv, switching from mt700 to in72?

thank you for your time
-gaga


Good questions. According to the rebate disclaimer it is valid for all authorized online retailers except Best Buy, bestbuy.com and Home Shopping Network. I emailed one of the Alliance members at the top of the page to double check that their price (much lower than the MAP) is still valid with the rebate because that would be a smoking deal. Hopefully they get back to me soon.

I was looking at getting a 720p LCD, but the choices here in Canada are limited. I would be looking at the Z4 + spare bulb for ~$800CAD more than the IN72, the Epson TW600 for $1200 more (with a ship back to Japan warranty), or the Panasonic AE900U + spare bulb for $1500CAD more. With the IN72 so cheap it will be a fine introduction to front projection while I wait for the 1080p models to fall into my pricerange.

I installed the new firmware - NOW it's "whisper quiet". :)

I couldn't believe when I turned it on and could barely tell it was on. Nice. I haven't had it on very long, so I'll see if it ever gets louder...
Brandon - how'd you make out? Did the fan follow the usual pattern of increasing in noise after the first 10 - 15 minutes? Was the final level it reached any quieter than with the old firmware?

I installed the new firmware - NOW it's "whisper quiet". :)

I couldn't believe when I turned it on and could barely tell it was on. Nice. I haven't had it on very long, so I'll see if it ever gets louder...

how did you install the FW?

Brandon - how'd you make out? Did the fan follow the usual pattern of increasing in noise after the first 10 - 15 minutes? Was the final level it reached any quieter than with the old firmware?

I offer my observations after upgrading to 2.4 and having the PJ on for about 4 hrs.:

1. Normal Mode: it starts out whisper quiet as usual. After a few minutes, it eventually reaches the same louder state as before. If there was an improvement, it's not all that perceptible to me.

2. High Power Mode: I think all the improvement is perhaps here. It's still louder than the loudest Normal Mode gets for me, but not as loud as before. If I perceived any noticeable difference, this is it. In fact, the noise in the High Power Mode is now only slightly louder than the loudest in Normal Mode.

There's enough ambient noise in my family room until very late at night that even the noise in High Power Mode was never a bother for me. Now the sun's up longer, I'd been running in High Power Mode for the first 1 to 2 hr. of each evening this week.

In my setup, I notice that the noise is most noticeable from directly below the PJ. Luckily, no one sits in that position.

Just passed 120 hrs. on this replacement unit. :D I curse the longer days and the darned sun light and all the re-runs on HD channels. :D This thread's been pretty quiet lately, so I assume everyone's been happily enjoying the PJ. ;)

Not me yet! I still have to sell my old PJ!!!!

:(

I offer my observations after upgrading to 2.4 and having the PJ on for about 4 hrs.:

1. Normal Mode: it starts out whisper quiet as usual. After a few minutes, it eventually reaches the same louder state as before. If there was an improvement, it's not all that perceptible to me.

Thx for the observations Joe. I'm not all that surprised. The current fan noise isn't really an issue for me, but the prospect of a more silent projector was nice while it lasted. :)

how did you install the FW?
Download the firmware update from the IF website to your PC. Double click on it and extract the files. When that's done you'll see a .pdf file with clear instructions on how to do it.

Download the firmware update from the IF website to your PC. Double click on it and extract the files. When that's done you'll see a .pdf file with clear instructions on how to do it.

awesome, thanks! However, from what I've just read...it doesn't sound like it would make any real improvement with regards to the fan noise. I'm a betting man that it's normal and part of the design.

how did you install the FW?

Mitch. You need a USB connection between your PC and the PJ's M1 port. InFocus has a M1-VGA cable and a M1-DVI-D cable with breakout USB cables, but you need to purchase them. I use a M1-DVI-D adapter purchased from BlueJeans Cables (but also available from other places) which also has a USB "A" type female socket. This way I can leave the DVI-D connected to the PJ and use a 12' USB cable (male-to-male, both "A" types) to my laptop.

If you download the firmware and extract the contents (it's distributed as a self-extracting archive,) there's a PDF of firmware upgrade instructions.

BTW: following the instructions didn't work for me for 2.3 and now 2.4. The "Flash Mode" button never becomes enabled, and the FlashUSB application never gets out of the "Waiting for connection..." state. Luckily "Camelot_One" posted in another thread how to force the PJ into firmware update mode, and that worked for me for both 2.3 and 2.4.

I'm a software engineer, so I prefer to stay away from software voodoo, but... For those of you who were able to update the firmware just by following the InFocus instructions: did you leave it ceiling-mounted while updating, or did you take the PJ down and put it "right-side-up" while updating? I mean, now that I think about it, if there was a firmware glitch in keystoning while ceiling-mounted, maybe there's a "feature" in the firmware that prevents the PJ from entering the update mode as intented while ceiling-mounted. I'm just too lazy to take down the PJ to test out this theory. :D :D :D To be fair, the illustration has the PJ right-side-up. ;)

awesome, thanks! However, from what I've just read...it doesn't sound like it would make any real improvement with regards to the fan noise. I'm a betting man that it's normal and part of the design.

Jeff beat me to how to get the instructions. Should learn me to be less-winded. ;)

I offer you and Jeff no guarantee that my observations should apply to you equally.

BTW: that Chief lateral shift adapter turned out to be a real gem!

I offer my observations after upgrading to 2.4 (europe pal zone)
in76 standard installation on table

-now the spalsh screen is in 16/9 mode

but have problem(black borders) in component cable in 576p 50Hz mode and denon 2910 and xbox360 dvd mode
work fine not black borders in 720p mode with component and xbox360 dashboard and game

for jpg black border see the tread :
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=681291

Infocus need work and work again :)
by from Italy :)

Brandon - how'd you make out? Did the fan follow the usual pattern of increasing in noise after the first 10 - 15 minutes? Was the final level it reached any quieter than with the old firmware?

My observations were slighltly different than Joe's, although my previous experience sounds like it was a little different, too. Previously, when I first started up the projector, it was more audible to me. After the firmware update, I could barely tell it was on.

It did get louder as time went on. It didn't seem to be as loud as it was before to me. However much of that was perceived by thinking it was "cured" at startup, I don't know. I had become used to the fan noise before. It just seemed more transparent. I told my wife it was quieter and she said she had never heard it before. :) The most dramatic difference for me was on startup, though. I literally would not know it was on if I walked into the room with my eyes closed, which was not the case before.

For those of you who were able to update the firmware just by following the InFocus instructions: did you leave it ceiling-mounted while updating, or did you take the PJ down and put it "right-side-up" while updating?

I updated it with the projector ceiling mounted.

FWIW, I'd be up for an IN-76 owner's thread... not that I own one now, but I will in the near future :)

2) i currently have the mt700 ceiling mounted, can i leave the mount alone and just swap the mt700 with the in72 and have it line up correctly to my 92" screen?
No, the projector will have to be 7.2 inches higher than the MT700 (a 92" screen is 45" tall x 16% projector offset = 7.2 exactly.) Luckily, the arm on my projector mount was removable and it raised the IN76 almost exactly enough to not have to move my screen. Keystoning is the devil so don't even think about using that. :rolleyes:

this is the new 16/9 "real" splash screen firmware v2.4
http://img77.imageshack.us/img77/948/ridimensionadidsc015079vy.jpg
(my jpg is in low definition)

This is 576p not problem black border (but litte settings needed)
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/9409/ridimensionadidsc015236cw.jpg

This is Nemo 576p non problem black border
(photo releases from the low seat )
http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/3226/ridimensionadidsc015246qx.jpg

This is the big lebosky (problem black borders)
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/2776/ridimensionadidsc015360gt.jpg

this is dash Microsoft on xbox360 at 720p (not problem black borders)
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/8257/ridimensionadidsc015136os.jpg

I forgot to say I have not still optimized the colors and vpr

I updated the firmware while mine was ceiling mounted. Hooked in the USB/M1 cable, unplugged and plugged the unit back in and flashed away. I was never bothered by the fan before, but it did seem quieter. Could easily be a placebo effect though.

No, the projector will have to be 7.2 inches higher than the MT700 (a 92" screen is 45" tall x 16% projector offset = 7.2 exactly.) Luckily, the arm on my projector mount was removable and it raised the IN76 almost exactly enough to not have to move my screen. Keystoning is the devil so don't even think abotu using that. :rolleyes:

dang that's not going to work then. i was not 100% correct in saying ceiling mount, what i have is a wall mount. With a horizontal arm bolted to the wall then a vertical arm attached to that then the projector. So moving it up and down is not possible without tearing the whole thing apart.

However there are some knobs on the mount that would make the picture go up/down/left/right. Can i use them to offset the 7" difference? is that keystoning?
i used those knobs on the mount to adjust the mt700 too, the picture by default was 12" below the screen (due to my inexperience installation). the knob made it so it fit on the screen.

Will the new IN76s ship with the new firmware? I'd rather have 1000 extra bulb hours than quieter operation.

:)

the new firmware fixed my problem with the 16x9 issue.
I"m very happy with the firmware upgrade, I noticed it's quiter too....

so far i'm happy!

Well Dave unless they changed their published specs on lamp life then for legal reasons alone you can bet that this firmware has been tested as to whether it drastically changes lamp life. That's why I am not to worried about it myself.

I just received my new IN76 earlier this week. The picture is outstanding and I am very pleased with it. I will keep it table mounted for a few weeks while I redo my video room before mounting it to the ceiling. I am surprised how quiet it is but previous threads suggest that the noise level will increase when ceiling mounted. Even though I just received it this week (they were out of stock and had to order directly from InFocus), I am surprised that the firmware is the initial release v2.1. Version 2.3 came out April 14 and version 2.4 came out June 20. Does anyone know if 2.4 is a cumulative release or do I have to first install 2.3 and then install 2.4?

We have our PJ table mounted in a cabinet. We rent and are in Earthquake territory, (5 blcos from Hayward Fault!) so no ceiling drilling for us.

...I updated it with the projector ceiling mounted.

Arggghhh. Help me out, Brandon. Here's what I did:

1. Unplug the PJ.
2. Connect the PJ to PC via USB.
3. Plug in the PJ.
4. Run FlashUSB -> "Flash Mode" disabled. Status: "waiting for connection..."
5. Load the .dld. -> "Flash Mode" still disabled. Status: "waiting for connection..."
6. "Download" button always disabled.

And

1. Unplug the PJ.
2. Connect the PJ to PC via USB.
3. Run FlashUSB -> "Flash Mode" disabled. Status: "waiting for connection..."
4. Load the .dld.
5. Plug in the PJ -> "Flash Mode" still disabled. Status: "waiting for connection..."
6. "Download" button always disabled.

And

1. Unplug the PJ.
2. Connect the PJ to PC via USB.
3. Run FlashUSB -> "Flash Mode" disabled. Status: "waiting for connection..."
4. Plug in the PJ.
5. Load the .dld -> "Flash Mode" still disabled. Status: "waiting for connection..."
6. "Download" button always disabled.

So on... Also tried waiting about 30 seconds. between plug/unplugging the PJ power cord.

"Camelot_One"'s method worked for me (although he was in a different bind):

1. Unplug the PJ.
2. Connect the PJ to PC via USB.
3. Run Flash USB -> "Flash Mode" disabled. Status: "waiting for connection..."
4. Load the .dld -> "Flash Mode" still disabled. Status: "waiting for connection..."
5. While holding down both "<" and ">" keys on the PJ, plug in the PJ.
6. Status: "connected". "Download" button enabled. "Flash Mode" still disabled.
7. Update, confirm through service menu that new firmware is in place.

This is with an old work Sony VAIO laptop running WinXP Pro. It has to be something really stupid I missed... :p I used to be able to flash the 4805 using my Mac PowerBook running VirtualPC, but that doesn't work for IN76 using any method.

Arggghhh. Help me out, Brandon. Here's what I did:

Is the laptop detecting the IN76 as new hardware?

The one thing you do that I don't do is unplug the PJ. I don't recall if that was part of Infocus' instructions or not, but I didn't do it with the 2 firmware upgrades I've done so far.

With the PJ plugged in, I hook up the USB cable to the laptop. The first time I did it, the laptop went through the new hardware installation wizard, detected the IN76, then installed it.

Then, I was able to connect via the flash utility and download the upgrade to the PJ.

hello after much research i am convinced the infocus in72 is the best value bar none. Here are some final questions before pulling the trigger:

1) how reliable is the in72? any early lamp failure issues? how many hours do you guys have so far on the lamp? As a mt700 owner on 5th lamp in 11 month you can see why this is my most important deciding factor on a new projector.

2) i currently have the mt700 ceiling mounted, can i leave the mount alone and just swap the mt700 with the in72 and have it line up correctly to my 92" screen?

3) the $300 infocus rebate ( https://www.infocusrebates.com/start/index.php ) will it work on all authorized resellers online stores? for example there are a couple authorized reseller websites' that are selling for a lot lower than the $1298 msrp, will the rebate still work?

4) i know in72 is 480 but still does hd quite well, as someone used to the mt700 pic quality, how disappointed (or not) will i be in those 3 areas - 4:3 regular tv, dvd, hdtv, switching from mt700 to in72?

thank you for your time
-gaga

i have both the in72 and the in76. we use the in72 everyday as our tv, for everything from SD, DVD and HD. it's been awesome so far. we've logged close to 200 hours in about a month. :D

it's an excellent value and really handles 480i and 480p standard def content very nicely. (as compared to my old panny 700). you'll be very happy with it.

Is the laptop detecting the IN76 as new hardware?

Only when forcing it into firmware update mode (i.e. "Camelot_One" method.)

The one thing you do that I don't do is unplug the PJ. I don't recall if that was part of Infocus' instructions or not, but I didn't do it with the 2 firmware upgrades I've done so far.

Sorry - I forgot to mention I also tried it without unplug/replugging in the PJ power cord (with the PJ powered off, of course.)

As long as there's a way around it, it's no big. It was the same with the original IN76 unit I had before sending it in for replacement. I had at one time suspected that it might be the M1-DVI-D+USB adapter or the 12' USB cable, but I got the same result using InFocus M1-VGA+USB cable which was bundled with the 4805.

I guess that leaves the Sony laptop as the suspect. It's an old machine from my office which, otherwise, is perfectly functional.

Happy viewing. :)

Anyone know if the IN76 will get a rebate as well??

:) d

my upgrade experience.

(insert driver manual mode for first time upgrade)

V2.1 to V2.3 metod unplug/replugging

V2.3 to V2.4 classic method (pdf)

using InFocus M1-VGA+USB cable which was bundled with the 4805 (analog)

If you ave problem to correct see periferical devices (in76) as inccorrect mode unistall et reinstall all usb controller devices

sorry for my bad english :)

Hey guys, just so you know, one of the forum sponsors has dropped the price of the IN76 to under $2000.

Hey! I said that a few pages ago!!!!


;) d

Now the rebate is what we're wondering about!

Hey guys, just so you know, one of the forum sponsors has dropped the price of the IN76 to under $2000.

If only they shipped to Canada. :(

Hi, I have just installed firmware v2.4 and the update seemed to be successful (I had a successful update message). However the projector will now not power on at all.

I get no lights, not even the green power LED, and the fan does not start. I seem to recall having this problem before on a SP4805 but can not remember how to resolve it. Something tells me all I need to do is a reset by holding down some buttons for 10 seconds but I can not find out which ones and have not been able to find anything by a search.

Has anyone else experienced this or is able to tell me which buttons to press when I plug the projector in ?.

Many thanks,

Tony.

I doubt this will help, but my projector wouldn't fire up after the 2.3 update and all I did was leave it unplugged a few seconds and plug it back in.