I left it unplugged for a few hours earlier this afternoon. Still nothing.

Thanks for your help anyway.

Cheers,

Tony.

(if you ave problem whit usb driver)
disconnect the PJ from the laptop

Remove and reinstall all USB controller reboor your pc, connect the PJ and work again :) (wait few minuts tho installal in correct method all devices)

sorry for my bad english I'm italian :)

Problem solved.

Forced update ala the Camelot_One method a few times - still nothing. Downgraded using this method to v2.3, performed a factory reset, and then updated to v2.4. Everything is working fine now. I guess it had some setting (Or combination of) that the update did not like.

Will now reconfigure and see how it goes.

Many thanks all,

Tony.

Congrats Anthony! Let us know!

Ok, is there a consensus, is the projector quieter (after new update) in normal mode, or the same.

Ok, is there a consensus, is the projector quieter (after new update) in normal mode, or the same.

I'm convinced it's slightly quieter. For me, it is definitely significantly quieter when it first starts up - it didn't used to be for me. Between the fan noise and the improved keystoning in ceiling mode, I am extremely pleased with this update.

OK, I upgraded the firmware tonight and I'm completely convinced that the PJ is now quieter. Is it a huge change? No. But it's there and it's tangible, and it makes a difference.

Here's my best guess on what they did. With the original firmware you could clearly hear distinct ramp-ups in fan speed and noise as the PJ increased in temperature during the first 10 minutes or so. It seemed like an increase in temperature triggered the next fan stage, which was noticeably louder than the last.

With the new firmware, I was not conscious of this ramp-up. I kept my room silent for the first 30 minutes the PJ was on, and although the fan was louder than on initial turn on at the end of that, I did not hear any discrete stages like I did before. Therefore I'm guessing that additional fan stages were added to make for a larger range of speeds. I'm convinced that the net result is a distinct lowering in dB level - as I mentioned not a huge change, but a noticeable (and welcome) improvement nonetheless.

This firmware upgrade is very worthwhile IMO. I'd be curious to see what more people think.

I seem to have a problem with my picture drifting. As in, the whole image moves down and to the left over time. My only guess is the case is getting very hot and the plastic may be expanding causing the lens to shift. Does anyone else have this problem or heard of something like this happening? Are there any solutions? After an hour of viewing it settles at a max of probably 1/2 inch from the initial position.

time variable focus was an issue on SP4805 (wait a half hour before focusing) - but I have not noticed that issue on this platform - and certanly not image shifting.

What mount are you using? I think you may be suffering from droopage.

Droopage? That's what my wife told me also.

OK, I upgraded the firmware tonight and I'm completely convinced that the PJ is now quieter. Is it a huge change? No. But it's there and it's tangible, and it makes a difference.

Here's my best guess on what they did. With the original firmware you could clearly hear distinct ramp-ups in fan speed and noise as the PJ increased in temperature during the first 10 minutes or so. It seemed like an increase in temperature triggered the next fan stage, which was noticeably louder than the last.

With the new firmware, I was not conscious of this ramp-up. I kept my room silent for the first 30 minutes the PJ was on, and although the fan was louder than on initial turn on at the end of that, I did not hear any discrete stages like I did before. Therefore I'm guessing that additional fan stages were added to make for a larger range of speeds. I'm convinced that the net result is a distinct lowering in dB level - as I mentioned not a huge change, but a noticeable (and welcome) improvement nonetheless.

This firmware upgrade is very worthwhile IMO. I'd be curious to see what more people think.

Is this a problem only with IN76 or with IN72 also.
The $300 rebate on 72 is very attractive. But before I buy I
wanted to make sure 72 doesnt have any fan/noise issues.

I believe 72 is quiter than 4805.

time variable focus was an issue on SP4805 (wait a half hour before focusing) - but I have not noticed that issue on this platform - and certanly not image shifting.

What mount are you using? I think you may be suffering from droopage.


but wouldn't droopage stay drooped? When I turn off the projector and come back 5 hours later the image is back to be perfectly aligned. I'm using the Cheif universal.

OK, I upgraded the firmware tonight and I'm completely convinced that the PJ is now quieter. Is it a huge change? No. But it's there and it's tangible, and it makes a difference.

Here's my best guess on what they did. With the original firmware you could clearly hear distinct ramp-ups in fan speed and noise as the PJ increased in temperature during the first 10 minutes or so. It seemed like an increase in temperature triggered the next fan stage, which was noticeably louder than the last.

With the new firmware, I was not conscious of this ramp-up. I kept my room silent for the first 30 minutes the PJ was on, and although the fan was louder than on initial turn on at the end of that, I did not hear any discrete stages like I did before. Therefore I'm guessing that additional fan stages were added to make for a larger range of speeds. I'm convinced that the net result is a distinct lowering in dB level - as I mentioned not a huge change, but a noticeable (and welcome) improvement nonetheless.

This firmware upgrade is very worthwhile IMO. I'd be curious to see what more people think.

i wonder if there is a risk of shorter bulb life in low power mode with this new firmwware. i guess i'll bite the bullet and do it anyway, but i'm perfectly happy with both of mine right now anyway.

i wonder if there is a risk of shorter bulb life in low power mode with this new firmwware.
I think that risk is probably pretty small. Considering their industry leading 6 month warranty on the lamps and their reputation for good engineering and reliability, I can't see InFocus implementating this change if there was a chance it would cause lamp issues. Of course, anything's possible I guess.

The change in fan speed and noise is not extreme - it's just a modest improvement. I would like to think that they did thorough testing to ensure the change did not cause the spec for maximum lamp compartment temperature to be exceeded.

I seem to have a problem with my picture drifting. As in, the whole image moves down and to the left over time. My only guess is the case is getting very hot and the plastic may be expanding causing the lens to shift. Does anyone else have this problem or heard of something like this happening? Are there any solutions? After an hour of viewing it settles at a max of probably 1/2 inch from the initial position.

Mine starts out slightly rolled and and slightly swiveled then settles down to normal state in about 5 to 10 minutes. I noticed this early on with my unit, so when it was time to ceiling-mount, I didn't adjust the mount and screen until well after the first 10 minutes.

...I believe 72 is quiter than 4805.

My 76 is quieter than my 4805, but maybe my 4805 is louder than yours.

i wonder if there is a risk of shorter bulb life in low power mode with this new firmwware. i guess i'll bite the bullet and do it anyway, but i'm perfectly happy with both of mine right now anyway.

The speed of the blower responsible for cooling the lamp was not changed in the new firmware, so lamp life in unaffected. The two main system fans had their algorithms tweaked for more efficient cooling, especially in ceiling mount mode.

The speed of the blower responsible for cooling the lamp was not changed in the new firmware, so lamp life in unaffected. The two main system fans had their algorithms tweaked for more efficient cooling, especially in ceiling mount mode.
Bob - thanks for joining in. :)

Geeks that we are, we'd love to hear a little more info on what was done to make it more efficient.

I'm convinced my ceiling mounted IN76 is now slightly quieter with the new firmware. Am I imagining that? Does this efficiency improvement result in lower noise or am I living proof of the placebo effect?

Thanks again.

OK, I upgraded the firmware tonight and I'm completely convinced that the PJ is now quieter. Is it a huge change? No. But it's there and it's tangible, and it makes a difference...

I'm happy it worked out well for you Jeff. In my room, where the noise ends up eventually is the same, or, at least, not significantly different for me to perceive it as an improvement. Most of the time, I really have to be listening for it to notice it any way.

I did note something interesting today. I had to adjust the mount a little after adding some new cables. I was using the on-screen menu while toggling "Ceiling" and "Rear" modes while checking the alignment with screen and focus, and noticed the very distinct noise fluctuation as I was checking and unchecking the "Ceiling" mode.

If you have free time, try it and see if you notice the same thing. After the PJ has been running for a while (let's say at least 20 to 30 minutes,) uncheck "Auto Ceiling" mode and toggle the "Ceiling" mode option on and off. Be sure to wait 5 to 10 seconds between toggles. After the initial 1 or 2 toggles, I hear the fan ramp up after unchecking the "Ceiling" mode, and quiet down after checking the "Ceiling" mode.

No matter where I leave it, the fan eventually ramps back up to where it always ends up, but toggling between the "Ceiling" on/off states definitely causes the firmware to change the fan speed. Which, of course, makes me wonder "why"? I would think the fan speed was (or should be) purely a function of system temperature (+ whether or not to ramp up lamp fan when switching to High Power.)

can you tell me where ?

...The two main system fans had their algorithms tweaked for more efficient cooling, especially in ceiling mount mode.

Hello, Bob. I ask this not as a concerned owner ('cuz I'm a happy owner :D ) but as a curious software engineer who knows nothing of PJ internals. Why special-case whether or not the PJ is ceiling-mounted? Granted, there'd be more heat lingering around the PJ near the ceiling, but to the firmware, the temperature measurement is some absolute number per sampling instance, isn't it? So, what's being done differently for celing-mounted case - change the temperature sampling frequency?

Also, is there any chance that we might see an added serial comm. command to query the currently active signal type and on which port? And throw in separate last remembered setting per signal type per port? ;)

The internal thermal sensor reacts to the ambient environment differently depending on the projector orientation due to natural convection. Therefore the thermal algorithms need to be different to produce the lowest noise possible.

As far as the 2nd question goes, I think we are beyond the period where significant features would be added unless there are many people who demand it. However, I will put it on the list for the software people.

The internal thermal sensor reacts to the ambient environment differently depending on the projector orientation due to natural convection. Therefore the thermal algorithms need to be different to produce the lowest noise possible.

As far as the 2nd question goes, I think we are beyond the period where significant features would be added unless there are many people who demand it. However, I will put it on the list for the software people.

Bob, thanks for jumping back on the board. There have been quite a few, "where's Bob" posts, many related to this new firmware. Thanks for the answer and for firmware upgrade.

Guess I will update the firmware sometime this week and see what results I get. I love my IN76, but wish fan noise was a little less.

One new question for you. I believe it has been asked, since your last appearance. It does not appear that Infocus makes to bulb life claims. Meaning they don't seem to say the bulb (IN76) has a 3000 life in normal mode, and 2000 hours in high mode. Most companies do something like this. Does this mean that Infocus expects the bulb to last 3000 hours regardless of lamp power mode, or was it simply an oversight in labeling/marketing?

Thanks again.

The internal thermal sensor reacts to the ambient environment differently depending on the projector orientation due to natural convection. Therefore the thermal algorithms need to be different to produce the lowest noise possible.

As far as the 2nd question goes, I think we are beyond the period where significant features would be added unless there are many people who demand it. However, I will put it on the list for the software people.

(emphasis mine)

Kras... deja vu? :D

It does not appear that Infocus makes to bulb life claims. Meaning they don't seem to say the bulb (IN76) has a 3000 life in normal mode, and 2000 hours in high mode. Most companies do something like this. Does this mean that Infocus expects the bulb to last 3000 hours regardless of lamp power mode, or was it simply an oversight in labeling/marketing?

We expect the average lamp to last 3000 hours, regardless of the power setting.

thanks for chiming in bob. the in72 and in76 are awesome. i'm very happy.

Long time lurker – 1st post. My wife (yes wife) got me the IN76 for Fathers Day, as I have been drooling over it for the last couple of months. (4805 is my previous and now back up projector). My observations are pretty much on par with everyone else; increased brightness, beautiful colors out of the box without any adjustments, minimal vertical offset (key for me) and sleek design, which dramatically improves the overall aesthetics in my theater room. When people quibble about price / performance, this variable doesn’t seem to get the amount of recognition it deserves.
The sharpness on standard definition (I don’t have HD), using s-video, doesn’t seemed to be greatly improved. Is it strictly because SD can’t be transmitted in 720p?
Overall, I’m very happy with this projector, and my wife.

- Mike

Will the In76 work well with a 13ft throwing distance and 92" screen?
Any owners with this set up. I will have total light control for this room and will be ceiling mounted.

Thanks,

Ian B

Using the projector calculator Bob provided at the beginning of the thread I get a minimum distance of 10.2ft and a maximum of 12.93ft assuming an approximate width of 80" (this gives a diagonal measurement of 91.79"). So it will be really close. I'd think it would work.

casino, right on, looks like you married a keeper!

mr. ian b, i'm about 12.5-13' back and i'm using a 92" da-lite screen. it should work great for you.

casino, right on, looks like you married a keeper!

mr. ian b, i'm about 12.5-13' back and i'm using a 92" da-lite screen. it should work great for you.


Thanks for the info. This is great news. I had marked it off my final 3 because I thought it would not work with my distance. The 13ft is the back of the room where there is an archway that replaced the existing rwall between 2 rooms and now I have 2 rooms as one. I won't put the projector at the 13ft mark because it won't have room with the 1ft drop on the archway from the ceiling. I will look at this projector again including projector central and see if it will still work at 11-12ft with a 92" screen. My new home will be ready in December and I am shopping early for the best deal. I am also considering a Sony HS51-A and a Sharp XVZ-3000. I think I read here that the Infocus 74 or 76 will be having a price drop next month.

Ian B

Mr Ian B

That is always a mistake to buy the projector before the new house and HT. There will always be a better deal if you wait six months. Of course if you have a spot for it in the current home - might as well get it burned in for the new house! Few people regret they could have bought it cheaper if they got months of use already - but when it is still new in box for more than you could have paid - that is a bit of hearburn.

Keep in mind the mount locations are always behind the lens location - plus screens are a few inches from the wall. So even if you are on the edge - you likely can make it work.

yeah, i can't vouch for 11', that's pretty close. i would take kras' recommendation and wait for your room to be completed before i pull the trigger. plans change and so do interior walls. ;)

Hi all,

I have this thing that's been bothering me for some time now. Whenever I watch a DVD that is hooked up to my surround-system ( via 6 channel direct ) I notice that volume levels are capped. I mean that when for instance the movie has a large explosion, the volume of that explosion doesn't really exceed the general volume of the movie. It feels as if the DVD has been mastered in such a way that volume levels don't exceed a certain level. It really sounds unnatural, whenever a LOUD scene comes up, it is as if volume levels are automatically lowered and it sounds muffled.
Is there anything I can do about it ? I just watched ZATHURA tonight, and the effect I am talking about was really noticeable.
Is this due to the DVD ... the amplifier or the player ?

Some processors and receivers (don't know about dvd players) have a dynamic compression mode (like 'night-time' or some such moniker) ... you might want to make sure you don't have that engaged.

Any new owners of the IN76 here that had PM'd me? How's it look? I'm still waiting!

:)

We expect the average lamp to last 3000 hours, regardless of the power setting.

Bob, thanks again for another quick response. Glad you were able to decipher my post and realize that 'to' meant 'two' :)

Any new owners of the IN76 here that had PM'd me? How's it look? I'm still waiting!

:)

???

Mr Ian B

That is always a mistake to buy the projector before the new house and HT. There will always be a better deal if you wait six months. Of course if you have a spot for it in the current home - might as well get it burned in for the new house! Few people regret they could have bought it cheaper if they got months of use already - but when it is still new in box for more than you could have paid - that is a bit of hearburn.

Keep in mind the mount locations are always behind the lens location - plus screens are a few inches from the wall. So even if you are on the edge - you likely can make it work.

I hear you. I am shopping but, won't pull the trigger till about thanksgiving weekend which will be 2 weeks before I close on the house. Thanks for all your input.

Ian B

Billy, look back in the thread and you'll figure it out.

:)

Any new owners of the IN76 here that had PM'd me? How's it look? I'm still waiting!

:)
Unfortunately, haven't ordered yet. Darn contractor is too slow in wrapping the room up. :mad: Oh wait.. I'm the contractor. :eek:

DOH!!! :)
I need to sell my old PJ first still!!!!!
But actually me and the gf are on the rocks again. If she ever kicks me to the curb I have a 3000 mile trek home. I just got a new speaker (for 6.1) and sweet speaker stands and bluejeans cables speaker wire. Until me and the gf sitch is resolved, maybe I shouldn't be upgrading???

The internal thermal sensor reacts to the ambient environment differently depending on the projector orientation due to natural convection. Therefore the thermal algorithms need to be different to produce the lowest noise possible.

As far as the 2nd question goes, I think we are beyond the period where significant features would be added unless there are many people who demand it. However, I will put it on the list for the software people.

Appreciate the reply, Bob. I don't fully understand it, but I appreciate it. :)

What is the best way to make a firmware feature request? I really liked the way the 4805 retained the last settings for 480i vs. 480p/720p/1080i, and I'd like to see that in IN76 + more. I figure it's not an NVRAM real estate issue (after all, as I understand it, you can capture and store a custom logo screen with IN72.)

Interestingly enough, I was switching between 480p and 720p material on Xbox connected via component video input. I assigned different tracking settings for those signal types: 53 for 720p and 54 for 480p. IN76 retained and applied those values as I was switching between the signal types (I guess I'll find out tomorrow if the values are retained after cycling power). Not so for basic picture settings, though, such as brightness/contrast and aspect ratio... It seems so inconsistent.

Will the In76 work well with a 13ft throwing distance and 92" screen?
Any owners with this set up. I will have total light control for this room and will be ceiling mounted.

Thanks,

Ian B

This is my exact setup. 92" screen, 13' throw and 10' viewing distance.

It is fantastic!!! No SDE and does not seem to big.

The InFocus calculator states that a 92" screen would be the smallest at that throw distance and max would be 116".

I'm wondering if Bob, or anybody else who knows, could help? I've heard that Bob used the Bravo D1 for his personal use in testing I believe, that is why I thought he might have some input.

I have the Bravo D1 DVD player outputting 854X480X48 to my IN72. To get the D1 to output the IN72's native resolution, I have been using the settings for the InFocus 4805/D1 combination from that thread here at AVS.

I still get what I believe are dropped frames as if a setting for the D1 is not correct. Does anybody know if the D1 settings for the 4805/D1 combo are accurate for the IN72/D1 combination?

If you check the first post of the 4805/D1 thread here at AVS, it shows the settings for 854X480X48 that I am using. When I select 480p from the D1's video menu, I don't see any dropped frames. I guess it could be a stuttering issue I'm seeing instead of dropped frames but that is what it seems like to me.

I would appreciate any advice, thanks.
George -bub

What is the best way to make a firmware feature request? I really liked the way the 4805 retained the last settings for 480i vs. 480p/720p/1080i, and I'd like to see that in IN76 + more. I figure it's not an NVRAM real estate issue (after all, as I understand it, you can capture and store a custom logo screen with IN72.)

Interestingly enough, I was switching between 480p and 720p material on Xbox connected via component video input. I assigned different tracking settings for those signal types: 53 for 720p and 54 for 480p. IN76 retained and applied those values as I was switching between the signal types (I guess I'll find out tomorrow if the values are retained after cycling power). Not so for basic picture settings, though, such as brightness/contrast and aspect ratio... It seems so inconsistent.

This behavior is actually by design and it works this way to be as simple as possible. Video settings in general are saved per connector rather than per source type. You can customize your video settings if you have multiple sources through one connector by using the preset function.

If you check the first post of the 4805/D1 thread here at AVS, it shows the settings for 854X480X48 that I am using. When I select 480p from the D1's video menu, I don't see any dropped frames. I guess it could be a stuttering issue I'm seeing instead of dropped frames but that is what it seems like to me.
Try the 72hz #s at the bottom of the 1st post

InFocus 4805 (854x480) and Vinc. Bravo D1 Specific Thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=660701)

Mouw,
I have tried that setting as well but the stuttering is really bad, much worse than the 48 setting.

Thanks for the feedback,
George -bub

I would just really like to know once and for all if these settings from the 4805/D1 translate accurately to the IN7X/D1.



Try the 72hz #s at the bottom of the 1st post

InFocus 4805 (854x480) and Vinc. Bravo D1 Specific Thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=660701)

Does any one know if the IN76 sold in the US is 220v/50hz capable ? (I'm considering buying from US)

Thanks.

Does any one know if the IN76 sold in the US is 220v/50hz capable ? (I'm considering buying from US)

Thanks.

don't you mean 230VAC/50Hz?

All versions of the IN72, IN74, and IN76 are compatible with input power ranging from 100-240 volts at 50-60 Hz.

I'm curious as to what is meant by, "Improved fan control and audio noise", as well as why the IN72 doesn't get this new firmware?

I am getting slightly used to the noise of my IN72 but would be grateful for anything, new firmware with improved fan control and audio noise for example, that would decrease the noise level.

Updated firmware versions using new fan algorithms have now been posted for the IN72 (v2.6) and IN74 (v2.4) as well.

I just ordered the M1 to USB adapter and downloaded the FW. Once the cable arrives on Friday, I'll perform the FW upgrade from V2.1 to V2.4 and report back with my observations. I have mine ceiling mounted about 8" from the ceiling so the noise difference should be noticeable. Hopefully at least. If not, I still am absolutely floored by the picture this thing throws on my 123" Firehawk.

I just ordered the IN76 with a 110" 16x9 screen. I have a question regarding projector distance. InFocus says 12.223' (min) to 15.499' (max). To get the best picture possible, is it best to mount at the min or max or somewhere in between? I never see this addressed in any reviews. I'll be installing this myself. Also, any recommendations for cable runs of 25-30 ft. (power cord, hdmi, component, s-video) I don't want to degrade the picture quality in any way. Where can I get these at the best quality required? Thanks

;)

Quick Question for all you IN76 Owners...

I'd like to put my IN76 on a shelf about 7' from the floor (about 6-8" above the top fo ther screen) BUT have it sitting right-side up. I would assume this would not work since the image would shoot from middle of the lens and up? This would put the image at the top of the front wall and onto the ceiling.

So my questions is... can you tell it via a menu/switch to be in "table top mode" but shoot the image downward vs. upward?

Or will I just need to create a cradle for it so it is stable sitting upside down on the shelf?

Thanks!

can you tell it via a menu/switch to be in "table top mode" but shoot the image downward vs. upward?No.

Spend $1.79 and buy some stick-on rubber feet from Radio Shack (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103342&cp=&origkw=rubber+feet&kw=rubber+feet&parentPage=search), place them on the top of your IN76 and flip it upside down.

http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2265856w345.jpg

No.

Spend $1.79 and buy some stick-on rubber feet from Radio Shack (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103342&cp=&origkw=rubber+feet&kw=rubber+feet&parentPage=search), place them on the top of your IN76 and flip it upside down.
That's what I figured but wanted to ask -- thanks!

I use the rubber feet for my X1. But I think there's a bit of a problem doing that with the IN76 -- the location of the zoom and focus rings. When I upgrade to the IN76, I plan to hang it from my "shelf" instead. (I also need to do this for the lesser vertical offset.)

I use the rubber feet for my X1. But I think there's a bit of a problem doing that with the IN76 -- the location of the zoom and focus rings. When I upgrade to the IN76, I plan to hang it from my "shelf" instead. (I also need to do this for the lesser vertical offset.)
Good idea. I may just make some type of mounting bracket to hold it a few inches off the shelf. I forgot about the controls on top. Mine will be housed in a type of hush-box with an open top -- so I have a lot of flexibility.

Looking at a brand new construction home.

In working out the design of the finished basement with the architect today, it looks like the best I can do with final real ceiling height is about 7 feet 8 inches -- that's a drop ceiling. (unless I spend thousands of dollars more and they start with a 10 foot foundation wall (not a 9 foot).

Assuming I go with the standard 9 foot foundation wall, the dimensions of the theater room will be about 16 feet wide and 20 feet long (ceiling as mentioned -- 7' 8").

I want, at minimum, a 110 inch diagonal screen -- starting at about 2 feet off the floor (which I believe is the recommended standard). So with the offset of the IN76, will that work?

Or am I stuck with getting an LCD projector now?

How high off the floor can I get the screen -- 110 inch -- with this ceiling height?

Using the projector spreadsheet that Bob posted earlier you get a screen offset of 8.42" (this is from the centerline of the lens to the top edge of the projected image). Now you must add to it the distance from the lens centerline to the ceiling. This will vary dependent on the mount used. For example if you are using a universal mount that is say at minimum 4" + 2.52" for the lens centerline to the top of the projector you end up with an added distance of 6.52". Add that to the screen offset and you have a total of 14.94" from the ceiling to the top of the projected image area (not the framing or border). Add that to the height of the projected image, which at 110" is 54" and you get 68.94" (which is the bottom of the image to the ceiling). Subtract this from your overall height (7'8") and you get a distance of 23.06" from the bottom of the image to the floor (92"-68.94"). So just under 2ft. Of course the mount distance is the variable here. So just keep in mind you want a mount that is about 4" or less to keep it about 2ft off the ground.

Using the projector spreadsheet that Bob posted earlier you get a screen offset of 8.42" (this is from the centerline of the lens to the top edge of the projected image). Now you must add to it the distance from the lens centerline to the ceiling. This will vary dependent on the mount used. For example if you are using a universal mount that is say at minimum 4" + 2.52" for the lens centerline to the top of the projector you end up with an added distance of 6.52". Add that to the screen offset and you have a total of 14.94" from the ceiling to the top of the projected image area (not the framing or border). Add that to the height of the projected image, which at 110" is 54" and you get 68.94" (which is the bottom of the image to the ceiling). Subtract this from your overall height (7'8") and you get a distance of 23.06" from the bottom of the image to the floor (92"-68.94"). So just under 2ft. Of course the mount distance is the variable here. So just keep in mind you want a mount that is about 4" or less to keep it about 2ft off the ground.

How common are these mounts that allow you to be as close as possible to the ceiling?

Are there such mounts readily available that will be 4 inches or less? If so, which ones?

Also, am I right that for a typical seating arrangement you want the bottom of the screen two feet above the ground (or is that still too low)?

In my current room with an 8ft ceiling I need 17.5" from the top of the image to the ceiling. I don't find the screen hangs to low though I have no idea what conventional wisdom says on the subject. I'm using a Peerless Universal and I think it works out to a minmum of 5.5" (my current rental has a temporary wood frame to hang the projector from which adds to the screen offset). A custom mount could probably decrease that.

How common are these mounts that allow you to be as close as possible to the ceiling?

Are there such mounts readily available that will be 4 inches or less? If so, which ones?

Also, am I right that for a typical seating arrangement you want the bottom of the screen two feet above the ground (or is that still too low)?
Check out ChinaDog/Bud's HT build (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6888007&&#post6888007). He moved from the peerless to the Chief RPA225 (http://www.projectorpeople.com/screens/chief-mounts.asp). It appears to have raised his a few inches closer to the ceiling.

Or you just tilt the screen forward to match any projector tilt.....

No.

Spend $1.79 and buy some stick-on rubber feet from Radio Shack (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103342&cp=&origkw=rubber+feet&kw=rubber+feet&parentPage=search), place them on the top of your IN76 and flip it upside down.

http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2265856w345.jpg

Or for the ultimate in WAF - you leave it in the foam cradle that it was packed in....if they had not changed to the plastic side cradles which block the vents that is....

I wanted to update to v2.4 this afternoon but after 20 minutes of monkeying with the " waiting for connection ..." I am getting really PO'ed.

I have the M1-A to USB/B to USB port on my laptop. What gives?

I have activated the M1-A source but never get a connection to the IN76.

Frustrated as 15 guests are due in about 1 hour and I want to update the HD-A1 HD-DVD player too.

k

my upgrade experience.

(insert driver manual mode for first time upgrade)

V2.1 to V2.3 metod unplug/replugging

V2.3 to V2.4 classic method (pdf)

using InFocus M1-VGA+USB cable which was bundled with the 4805 (analog)

If you ave problem to correct see periferical devices (in76) as inccorrect mode unistall et reinstall all usb controller devices

sorry for my bad english :)


Good enough english as I need your assistance. Where perpherial deivces uninstall? I am looking in the control panel now for something like this ...

I wanted to update to v2.4 this afternoon but after 20 minutes of monkeying with the " waiting for connection ..." I am getting really PO'ed.

I have the M1-A to USB/B to USB port on my laptop. What gives?

I have activated the M1-A source but never get a connection to the IN76.

Frustrated as 15 guests are due in about 1 hour and I want to update the HD-A1 HD-DVD player too.

k
Try unplugging and replugging the projector while "waiting for connection" is displayed. That did the trick for me...

If you have free time, try it and see if you notice the same thing. After the PJ has been running for a while (let's say at least 20 to 30 minutes,) uncheck "Auto Ceiling" mode and toggle the "Ceiling" mode option on and off. Be sure to wait 5 to 10 seconds between toggles. After the initial 1 or 2 toggles, I hear the fan ramp up after unchecking the "Ceiling" mode, and quiet down after checking the "Ceiling" mode.

No matter where I leave it, the fan eventually ramps back up to where it always ends up, but toggling between the "Ceiling" on/off states definitely causes the firmware to change the fan speed. Which, of course, makes me wonder "why"? I would think the fan speed was (or should be) purely a function of system temperature (+ whether or not to ramp up lamp fan when switching to High Power.)
Joe - a little late on my response, but yes, in this regard my projector behaves the same as yours.

I'd still love to know exactly what was changed with the fan logic. I know Bob has stated that the speed of the blower has not changed, but I still remained convinced noise level is slightly lower. If fan speed has not changed, I can't think of what else would account for the noise level difference (unless I'm imagining it of course). ;)

...If fan speed has not changed, I can't think of what else would account for the noise level difference (unless I'm imagining it of course). ;)

Not meaning to be metaphysical or anything, but... What's real is what your brain says. ;)

And I'm going to stop muting my receiver every 30 min. just so I can observe the fan noise... :D

And I'm going to stop muting my receiver every 30 min. just so I can observe the fan noise... :D
LOL - that's funny because I've been guilty of doing that all too frequently. My preferred method was pausing the DVD however- you don't miss any dialogue that way!

Try unplugging and replugging the projector while "waiting for connection" is displayed. That did the trick for me...


Eventually I switched laptops and the 2nd one worked out. One laptop did not want to communicate. I had to unplug and replug the PJ while holding a button to enter flash mode again because it would not allow a download at first.

All is well and maybe I learned something for the next firmware upgrade.

k

In my current room with an 8ft ceiling I need 17.5" from the top of the image to the ceiling. I don't find the screen hangs to low though I have no idea what conventional wisdom says on the subject. I'm using a Peerless Universal and I think it works out to a minmum of 5.5" (my current rental has a temporary wood frame to hang the projector from which adds to the screen offset). A custom mount could probably decrease that.

Do you have two rows of seating? And if so, do you have a riser for the 2nd row (height of riser)?

Joe - a little late on my response, but yes, in this regard my projector behaves the same as yours.

I'd still love to know exactly what was changed with the fan logic. I know Bob has stated that the speed of the blower has not changed, but I still remained convinced noise level is slightly lower. If fan speed has not changed, I can't think of what else would account for the noise level difference (unless I'm imagining it of course). ;)

Sorry about not being clear. The fan speeds did change. There are 3 air movers inside of this platform, two are fans and one is a blower. The blower cools the lamp, the fans cool the system. We updated the fan speed algorithms to lower the total system noise, but did not touch the blower algorithm.

Sorry about not being clear. The fan speeds did change. There are 3 air movers inside of this platform, two are fans and one is a blower. The blower cools the lamp, the fans cool the system. We updated the fan speed algorithms to lower the total system noise, but did not touch the blower algorithm.
Thanks Bob, that clears things up a bit. It also reaffirms my belief that the projector is now quieter. :)

Hello everybody from Italy. I'm a long time lurker of this thread, and after reading a lot about the IN76, I've become a proud and happy owner of this pj, right in time for FIFA World Cup and for the first HD broadcasts in Italy.
Until now I used the IN76 mostly with HD sat tv, and watched a few movies both in SD sat tv and from DVD (Pioneer DV668).
I ask the forum for some enlightments:
1. The M1-DA input doesn't seem to work. I've connected a Blue Jeans Cable M1-DVI/USB adapter to a BJC HDMI-DVI-D cable, 30' long, and the pj can't see the input signal.
2. The component inputs can't see the DVD signal if I set it to 576i (just for comparing the DVD player deinterlacer to the pj's). When set in progressive (576p) it works properly.
3. The flesh and the noise options in Advanced Image settings menu aren't available, both with component and HDMi input.
Would you please suggest something?
Thanks and many compliments for the greatly useful thread.
Bye, Umberto

Projector central posted a review about the IN72. They had all good to say about the projector (and they admitted the 480i deinterlacing is as good as Farojuda too!). However, they stated that the HD scaling is excellent but the HD picture is so-so on this unit and looks like SD. The said other 480 pjs do a much better job at HD. I don't agree with this subjective statement....

Italians love Infocus IN76.

i currently have a dell 2300mp that i want to upgrade. will getting a in72 be an upgrade? i tried to compare the stats on it but overall i am still unsure. thanks
sluri

Going from the Dell to the IN72 will be a tough call. The Dell offers a higher resolution panel (for 4:3 viewing) and comparable contrast according to both of their published specs. The IN72 has slighty lower resolution but moves you into the realm of a native 16:9 panel. This has the potential to allow for better scaling of HD matieral. I haven't seen either this Dell or the IN72 in person, but my guess would be that the IN72 is probably closer to it's published specs and will offer a more pleasing picture out of the box due it's home theater focus and factory calibration. In the end I would save up more money and purchase a 720p class projector. This will clearly be a step up from what you have and due to truely being HD offer more longevity.

thanks for the response. i am also considering the panasonic 900 but it would be 2X as much as the infocus. lets see what happens.
thanks
sluri

Hello everyone,

I am looking at purchasing my first projector; I am leaning towards the IN76. However, I have some concerns that are keeping me from taking the plunge.

Usage:
The projector will be our only viewing platform; it will be used primarily for DVDs and XBOX360, and very rarely for TV. The projector must be 720p class projector. Bulb life is not a huge issue.

Location and Ambient Light:
The projector will be going into the living room. There is a large south facing window. There is never exposure to direct sunlight, the room is dimmer than most during midday, but it still is bright enough that you do not need the lights on to see. The room starts to get dark relatively quickly during the evening, and is pitch black once the sun has set. Most of our viewing will take place at night; however I often play a good amount of XBOX360 on weekend afternoons. The room is painted light green with white ceilings.

Display Size and Projector Placement:
The back wall is 14 feet from the display wall. We have 8 foot ceilings. Viewers will be seated about 13 feet from the display wall. I am less concerned about image size and more concerned about projector placement. The wife has declared that the projector HAS to be on the back wall. She would prefer to see it on a shelf, hidden inside a box that matches the wood of the coffee table. The shelf will be 5 to 6 feet from the floor, but this is negotiable... Hopefully it will be tall enough so enough so that the top of the box can be left open for ventilation.

Screen: :)
The wife has already declared that there will be NO SCREEN. This means I will have to project onto the wall. The walls were painted with Sherman Williams Paint. The current color of the wall is "liveable green". I have one other color options that I can paint the wall, which is called "Escape Gray". You can go to Sherman Williams website to view these colors.

Rainbow Effect
I am highly concerned about the rainbow effect; a brilliant stealth installation of the projector will be for nothing if my wife gets headaches while watching. Unfortunately, she gets headaches often (but never from viewing our old CRT TV). Is there anyway to tell if the rainbow effect will be an issue prior to purchase?

Fan Noise:
Fan Noise can be a deal killer as well. If it sounds like a 747 is taking off it will be a game over. I am hoping by enclosing it in a felt lined box, that I will reduce the noise. Of course I do not want it overheating...

Other Questions…
I live in a small town and I do not have a home theater store to purchase this from… Any recommendations on where to buy a projector over the web that has a good return policy in case this does not work out?

Thanks in advance for your comments :)

The wife has declared that the projector HAS to be on the back wall. She would prefer to see it on a shelf, hidden inside a box that matches the wood of the coffee table.

The wife has already declared that there will be NO SCREEN.


I am highly concerned about the rainbow effect; a brilliant stealth installation of the projector will be for nothing if my wife gets headaches while watching. Unfortunately, she gets headaches often

If it sounds like a 747 is taking off it will be a game over.

Any recommendations on where to buy a projector over the web that has a good return policy in case this does not work out?

...You don't need a new display device, you need a new wife!!

Me thinks you might not be a candidate for a front projector!

OK, couldn't resist :rolleyes:

My best recommendation would be to spend a little time researching these wonderful forums. All of the questions you ask could be answered in 10 minutes of research. You may not get a ton of help in your approach, as most of the "learned folk" on here have gained theri knowledge the hard way - time and effort and trial and error. To those folks, you post sorta reads - "I don't want to waste my time in this community; just give me all the answeres I want, and quickly".

That being said, its also a civil and forgiving community...so here goes -




Location and Ambient Light:
The projector will be going into the living room. There is a large south facing window. There is never exposure to direct sunlight, the room is dimmer than most during midday, but it still is bright enough that you do not need the lights on to see. The room starts to get dark relatively quickly during the evening, and is pitch black once the sun has set. Most of our viewing will take place at night; however I often play a good amount of XBOX360 on weekend afternoons. The room is painted light green with white ceilings.

TSO - Light will be an issue for you during the day, especially since you don't want a screen. The whitest flat white you can paint would be best, while darkening the rest of the room if possible. There are certain specialty paints that have been used that give a little gain (ie. would reflect more of your pj's signal), but I'm a little leary of their claims. That being said, you CAN project on a wall- just make it white. You m,ight want to look into window treatments as well, a sometimes overlooked solution

Display Size and Projector Placement:
The back wall is 14 feet from the display wall. We have 8 foot ceilings. Viewers will be seated about 13 feet from the display wall. I am less concerned about image size and more concerned about projector placement. The wife has declared that the projector HAS to be on the back wall. She would prefer to see it on a shelf, hidden inside a box that matches the wood of the coffee table. The shelf will be 5 to 6 feet from the floor, but this is negotiable... Hopefully it will be tall enough so enough so that the top of the box can be left open for ventilation.

TSO - If you put in a box, your $2000 investment will last about 20 minutes. This means ANY box, unless you also build an elaborate cooling system that ventilates it. The projector is pretty quiet - think computer fan, plus a little. It won't be a problem at 8 feet. Also, with that throw you will need to be as flush against the ceiling as possible. Buy an inexpensive $30 mount and do it right! You should be able to get it just a few inches off the ceiling, and cable can be run very neatly and discreetly in tiny paintable cable channels from Home Depot.
Your idea of mouinting it on a shelf at 6 feet will cause the image to keystone, which you don't want. If you have to use the digital keystone correction, you may as well just buy a cheap presentation projector for $800 - the image quality will be about the same.

Screen:
The wife has already declared that there will be NO SCREEN. This means I will have to project onto the wall. The walls were painted with Sherman Williams Paint. The current color of the wall is "liveable green". I have one other color options that I can paint the wall, which is called "Escape Gray". You can go to Sherman Williams website to view these colors.

TSO - See above. I will say that a nice Highpower screen from Dalite, built into a tiny soffet made of crown molding and then either stained or painted to match your wood decor would basically dissappear into your decoration. Thats what i did, with about $30 of 7" oak crown molding from Home Depot and some bracket hardware. I pull down the screen with a small hook made from Piano wire, and voila! High gain, high quality projection surface. When not needed, up it went into the soffet. The image improevement is like tripling your projector budget!


Rainbow Effect
I am highly concerned about the rainbow effect; a brilliant stealth installation of the projector will be for nothing if my wife gets headaches while watching. Unfortunately, she gets headaches often (but never from viewing our old CRT TV). Is there anyway to tell if the rainbow effect will be an issue prior to purchase?

TSO - Don't worry about it. Don't mention it to you wife, and she will never know. Today's theater projectors very rarely have any issues with rainbows. Not so presentation models however. If your wife constantly complains of headaches...I know some good marriage/relationship counselors that might be of help (OK, couldn't resist there, either :) )

Fan Noise:
Fan Noise can be a deal killer as well. If it sounds like a 747 is taking off it will be a game over. I am hoping by enclosing it in a felt lined box, that I will reduce the noise. Of course I do not want it overheating...

TSO - See above - probably not a problem. Your AC will probably be much louder.

Other Questions…
I live in a small town and I do not have a home theater store to purchase this from… Any recommendations on where to buy a projector over the web that has a good return policy in case this does not work out?

TSO - Price quoting and purchase recommendation on this forum is frowned upon, as our gracious sponsor is also a seller. However, their partner sponsors (listed at the top of the page) are probably the best places online to purchase a projector, period (in addition to AVS). You really need look no further.

Hope this helps.

I am VERY rainbow sensitive and it took me several months for my brain to adjust to my PJ.
You really can't predict it.

OK, couldn't resist :rolleyes:

My best recommendation would be to spend a little time researching these wonderful forums.

These forums have been the very helpful! I would not even have known what questions to ask if I had not have been reading these forums :).

TSO - Light will be an issue for you during the day, especially since you don't want a screen. The whitest flat white you can paint would be best, while darkening the rest of the room if possible.

Can you explain why the wall should be white? Is it because projecting on a green wall will cause red colors look yellow?

TSO - If you put in a box, your $2000 investment will last about 20 minutes.

I will have to cash in brownie points...

TSO - See above. I will say that a nice Highpower screen from Dalite, built into a tiny soffet made of crown molding and then either stained or painted to match your wood decor would basically dissappear into your decoration. Thats what i did, with about $30 of 7" oak crown molding from Home Depot and some bracket hardware. I pull down the screen with a small hook made from Piano wire, and voila! High gain, high quality projection surface. When not needed, up it went into the soffet. The image improevement is like tripling your projector budget!

The idea of a siffet has earned a very high wife approval rating. Thanks for the great tip!

TSO - Price quoting and purchase recommendation on this forum is frowned upon, as our gracious sponsor is also a seller. However, their partner sponsors (listed at the top of the page) are probably the best places online to purchase a projector, period (in addition to AVS). You really need look no further.

Good to know.

Hope this helps.[/QUOTE]

Very helpful! Once I make my decision I will update the forums.

Projector central posted a review about the IN72. They had all good to say about the projector (and they admitted the 480i deinterlacing is as good as Farojuda too!). However, they stated that the HD scaling is excellent but the HD picture is so-so on this unit and looks like SD. The said other 480 pjs do a much better job at HD. I don't agree with this subjective statement....

I was surprised by that statement. I have seen HD on 4805 and I would expect IN72 to be atl east as good as 4805. HD on 4805 was a bit smoother than DVD but I wouldnt call it "SD looking". I really had no complaints about HD on 4805.

May be there was some connection issues with the reviewer's equipment for HD
on In72.

Can someone please comment on the quality of HD on IN72.

Bob any reaction to that statement in PJ central.

I think Infocus elimiinating the three year lamp warranty was a no brainer. It was pretty much guaranteed that everyone would need a new lamp in three years - and when it cost less than a lamp.

Crutchfield offers a 3-year service plan from Service Net, which specifically states that if a "television" lamp fails, the user is entitled to one replacement over the life of the plan. The projector and service plan together cost the same as the projector alone would cost directly from InFocus.

I was planning to buy directly from InFocus, since they offered a sensible and reasonably priced 3-year lamp warranty, but it just doesn't make sense to spend more and get less.

~ Kiran <entropy@io.com>

After reading *MANY* threads for quite awhile now I'm just about ready to finally get a projector.
I live in an apartment building and they won't let me ceiling mount. My nearest shelf is on the opposite side of the room 23 feet away.
So my only option is a desktop or projector cart. I'm think of using a Dalite PH 800-1250 Projector stand.

The way my room is setup is that my wife and I will be seated just a couple of feet BEHIND and a little off to the sides of the projector.

Would this setup work? Would the IN76 be too loud for this type of setup?

Any answers from IN76 owners would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Hello everyone,

I am looking at purchasing my first projector; I am leaning towards the IN76. However, I have some concerns that are keeping me from taking the plunge.

Usage:
The projector will be our only viewing platform; it will be used primarily for DVDs and XBOX360, and very rarely for TV. The projector must be 720p class projector. Bulb life is not a huge issue.

Location and Ambient Light:
The projector will be going into the living room. There is a large south facing window. There is never exposure to direct sunlight, the room is dimmer than most during midday, but it still is bright enough that you do not need the lights on to see. The room starts to get dark relatively quickly during the evening, and is pitch black once the sun has set. Most of our viewing will take place at night; however I often play a good amount of XBOX360 on weekend afternoons. The room is painted light green with white ceilings.

Display Size and Projector Placement:
The back wall is 14 feet from the display wall. We have 8 foot ceilings. Viewers will be seated about 13 feet from the display wall. I am less concerned about image size and more concerned about projector placement. The wife has declared that the projector HAS to be on the back wall. She would prefer to see it on a shelf, hidden inside a box that matches the wood of the coffee table. The shelf will be 5 to 6 feet from the floor, but this is negotiable... Hopefully it will be tall enough so enough so that the top of the box can be left open for ventilation.

Screen: :)
The wife has already declared that there will be NO SCREEN. This means I will have to project onto the wall. The walls were painted with Sherman Williams Paint. The current color of the wall is "liveable green". I have one other color options that I can paint the wall, which is called "Escape Gray". You can go to Sherman Williams website to view these colors.

Rainbow Effect
I am highly concerned about the rainbow effect; a brilliant stealth installation of the projector will be for nothing if my wife gets headaches while watching. Unfortunately, she gets headaches often (but never from viewing our old CRT TV). Is there anyway to tell if the rainbow effect will be an issue prior to purchase?

Fan Noise:
Fan Noise can be a deal killer as well. If it sounds like a 747 is taking off it will be a game over. I am hoping by enclosing it in a felt lined box, that I will reduce the noise. Of course I do not want it overheating...

Other Questions…
I live in a small town and I do not have a home theater store to purchase this from… Any recommendations on where to buy a projector over the web that has a good return policy in case this does not work out?

Thanks in advance for your comments :)

WTB is not allowed on this forum - except for our hosts at AVS.

ambient light - put a white paper up on the wall - that is as dark as your blacks will be...ambient light is a contrast killer. You can improve this with massive brightness to fool the eye that the white paper is actually black.

Others have talked about the box being a projector killer....

But as far as no screen - this is an easy one that I never see discussed. Velcro tape her favorite print on posterboard and her favorite frame from the crafts store. You can either do the screen paints on the wall - or apply the velcro tape to the inset of the frame so you can use real screen fabric (stretch/stapled on art stretcher bars).

I guarantee she will spend more money on the art and frame than you would on a theater screen frame - once she learns it can be a pretty framed picture when company comes - rather than a white blotch on her green wall.

When I first got my IN76 I had it on the sofa table right behind my head. Could I hear it? Yes. Was it objectionably loud? Not to me or any of the guests that viewed it this way.

Quaxtros, I too live in an apartment and the only thing ceiling mounting requires are 4 screws. When you move, it's easy to remove the screw anchors and slap a little spackle in the hole. It's not much more damage to a ceiling than hanging a few pictures on a wall. Unless your landlord's a frequent visitor, I'd put that pj on the ceiling where you'll be better off. Good luck and welcome to the forum.

Quaxtros, I too live in an apartment and the only thing ceiling mounting requires are 4 screws. When you move, it's easy to remove the screw anchors and slap a little spackle in the hole. It's not much more damage to a ceiling than hanging a few pictures on a wall. Unless your landlord's a frequent visitor, I'd put that pj on the ceiling where you'll be better off. Good luck and welcome to the forum.

Thanks for the replies! I'm still trying to figure this all out!!!

As my previous post said "I'm still trying to figure this all out." Well I have received good news from my landlord. I can install a ceiling mount as long as I patch it before I leave. That's the good news. The bad news is that my wife has now nixed the IN76!
Before I was just going to put the projector away after using it on a desktop so she had no problems with it.
However now that it's going to be permanently mounted on our white ceiling she said "I don't want that black ufo looking thing on our ceiling!"
So now it has to be a white projector. Too bad Infocus doesn't make the IN76 in white.
So I decided to get an Optoma H72 but it seems (from reading the H72 thread) that a number of people are having various problems with their H72 and more than one person has commented on getting an Infocus projector!
I don't blame them as I want one too!!
Anyway now it appears I'm going to have to spend more than I wanted but I will have to "settle" for a BenQ 8720.
So I'm off to that forum....

Projecting onto a green wall would throw off your color rendition terribly - like looking at everything through green colored glasses. I think this would be another case for mounting a dalite high power under a small soffet. - it goes away and your wife gtes to keep the green wall.

Regarding WAF (Wife Acceptance Factor) - you are going about it the right way, despite my kidding. If you wife likes movies, and you like spending time together, it is a GREAT hobby. My wife an I enjoy several movies a week, and watch our favorite shows together in HD - we wouldnt live without it now.

Funny thing - when I first leaped into this hobby, blind and ignorant, in 2000, the spouse was pretty edgy about it. Two years ago, when we moved into our lovely new home, she proceeded to cover up the 12 inch crown molding and 10 foot bay window in our bedroom with a giant sheet so I could "hurry up and unpack the projector!!"

THe savoring a finely made film with the right equipment is like enjoying a fine wine or cigar after dinner - its a leisure activity we look forward to sharing together as often as we can. We haven't spent a ton on it, always buying second hand or at deep discounts, and our friends have alwasy been blown away by the picture.

I currently use an older optoma H56A, a panasonic XP50, and a 133" dalite high power. Wonderful! My next upgrade (soon!) will be to one of the big 3 - in767, Mits hC3000, or HD72. Prices keep plummeting!

well, I finally made the jump from FW Version 2.1 to 2.4 specifically to address my fan noise issues. My setup is ~9" from the ceiling and in a corner so I'm especially sensitive to fan noise since I sit directly underneath the projector.

All I can say is THUMBS UP. I am now convinced that when inverted, my projector was going almost into high-power mode for fan speed. Now that I've downloaded Version 2.4, this thing is whisper quiet in comparison. I may have an extreme case, but this is VERY noticeable. Enjoy 2.4 converters!

I also hooked up the Monoprice HDX-501 and am having no issues even with a 40ft+ HDMI run.

Previously I was thinking of building some sort of hush box, but I'm absolutely floored by the difference in noise. I can now let it hang out in the wind for everyone to see and not worry about fan noise. Thanks Infocus FW engineers!

Hi everybody. Please, can anyone share his/her experience with connecting the M1-DA input of the IN76 to the HDMI output of a dvd player or a TV decoder?
I've bought Blue Jeans Cable M1 to DVI adapter and DVI to HDMI cable, but the projector can't see the input.
More info in my previous post, on this thread, n. 2577.
Thanks folks!

Hi All...

I recently purchased a IN72 with an Optoma 106" screen.

Out of the box, it looks great; although this is my second one, the first was returned because of a dust blob issue.

I have a couple of questions though:

1. Any tweaks or settings that help improve the image even further?

2. What is a quick and easy way to tell that the image is lined up correctly and isn't being distorted because of projector position? I'm not using any keystoning (it is set at the default).

3. I'm thinking now, that the screen probably has too much gain (1.8). According to the infocus calculator, I'm getting almost 40 fl out of it. Is there anyway to "turn it down" without buying a new screen?

4. Are there any websites or threads you'd recommend I read? I can't seem to access most of the info in the FAQ. It doesn't seem to be in the archives anymore.

Thanks,

-Tony

1.8 gain? Ouch. Well your best bet would be to get an ND2 filter to install on the projector lens. I don't honestly know all that much about them, but I understand they will cut light output by about 50%. As for positioning you could use the screen border for a rough estimate (if the image is square with the border it's as to be close) or you could use a laser level to see how square it is. Personally if it's square on the screen that is close enough for me.

Is there anyway to "turn it down" without buying a new screen?
Optoma's GrayWolf screen is a Glass Bead retro-reflective surface. So you get maximum lumens from sitting near a table mounted PJ. If u were to Ceiling mount the PJ--that would cut down on the Lumens u would be seeing from a sitting position. Try Standing-Up from your seating position now....this should give u an idea of what you would see Ceiling mounted.

Official Optoma Graywolf screen thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=557382)

1.8 gain? Ouch. Well your best bet would be to get an ND2 filter to install on the projector lens. I don't honestly know all that much about them, but I understand they will cut light output by about 50%. As for positioning you could use the screen border for a rough estimate (if the image is square with the border it's as to be close) or you could use a laser level to see how square it is. Personally if it's square on the screen that is close enough for me.

From what I understand, the IN72 does not have a threaded lens to attach a filter to. Is there any other way to get one on there?

Thanks,

-Tony

Tape or non permanent adhesive (poster snot?). That is all that pops into mind. A lot of people just put it on with tape from what I have read.

Considering jump from 5yr old LP530(blown bulb) to IN72. After I deduct the cost of a new bulb for the old pj, the IN72 price, with rebate, looks very good. I have been satisfied with the LP530, will I be disapointed by the in72?

Anyone know if the IN76 will get the rebate?

:)

Considering jump from 5yr old LP530(blown bulb) to IN72. After I deduct the cost of a new bulb for the old pj, the IN72 price, with rebate, looks very good. I have been satisfied with the LP530, will I be disapointed by the in72?
I can't imagine that you would. The LP530 is an old business projector and I'd expect the IN72 to trounce it in just about every category that counts when it comes to home theater performance. Specifically color saturation, color/greyscale accuracy, black level and contrast, and connectivity options (eg. HDMI). The IN72's 4x color wheel will also reduce the possibility of rainbows.

The one thing the LP530 does have is slightly higher resolution, but IMO I'd be willing to trade that for all the other benefits of the IN72.

If you go for the IN72, let us know what you think. :)

Tape or non permanent adhesive (poster snot?). That is all that pops into mind. A lot of people just put it on with tape from what I have read.

I'm intrigued. What exactly is "poster snot"?

Rubber cement. Not to be confused with Gorilla snot, which is 3M weatherstripping cement.

Hey Guys, I have had my IN76 for about 2-3 months and have been really enjoying it.

My question is about my parents set up. I just bought them an IN76 for their new theater room. They will be using a 104" Carada screen in a room with burgundy walls, a medium cherry wood background (screen will be mounted on a built in cabinet), a white ceiling and the IN76 will be ceiling mounted. Along with movies, they will use this projector for a lot of sporting events during the day with quite a bit of ambient lighting. I was wondering what your opinion was for Brilliant White, High Contrast Grey, or Classic White and the IN76? I have done testing in my room which is totally white and I almost prefer the Classic White but I live 1500 miles away so I can't test it there. I am not sure how that would do in their darker room and I was wondering what others have experienced in similar situations, or believe would be the best choice for them. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Bought an IN72 today to replace my 5yr old LP530 with bad bulb. No more washed out whites, more detail in the blacks. Reds, yellows and blues I have not seen before with this much intensity. But the most noticeable change is the 3d look images now take on.

JeffKB was right.

It's even quieter.

After I take into account the $100 off price my local retailer had, the $300 rebate, the expected cost of a replacement bulb for my LP530, and $100 -$200 my old LP530 without a bulb will fetch on ebay, the price was well worth the improvement in image quality. Plus the IN72 has a bulb life that is 150 to 200% longer.

Thanks

No rebate rumblings for the IN76? I might jump next week!

:)

Bought an IN72 today to replace my 5yr old LP530 with bad bulb. No more washed out whites, more detail in the blacks. Reds, yellows and blues I have not seen before with this much intensity. But the most noticeable change is the 3d look images now take on.
....It's even quieter.


Hi dtcorbett - congrats on the purchase!

Make sure you have the latest firmware loaded (v2.6). You can get it here:
http://www.infocus.com/service/IN72/software.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&soft=in72
If you don't have a USB-M1 cable you'll need to purchase one to do the update however (well worth it!).

It makes a noticeable improvement in the noise level of the projector. :)

Hey Guys, I have had my IN76 for about 2-3 months and have been really enjoying it.

My question is about my parents set up. I just bought them an IN76 for their new theater room. They will be using a 104" Carada screen in a room with burgundy walls, a medium cherry wood background (screen will be mounted on a built in cabinet), a white ceiling and the IN76 will be ceiling mounted. Along with movies, they will use this projector for a lot of sporting events during the day with quite a bit of ambient lighting. I was wondering what your opinion was for Brilliant White, High Contrast Grey, or Classic White and the IN76? I have done testing in my room which is totally white and I almost prefer the Classic White but I live 1500 miles away so I can't test it there. I am not sure how that would do in their darker room and I was wondering what others have experienced in similar situations, or believe would be the best choice for them. Any input would be greatly appreciated.


You may want to think about getting a DA-Lite Hi-Power screen. This screen is retro-reflective and has a 2.8 Gain if you coffee table mount the projector. If you are doing a Ceiling mount then you will get about 1.5 Gain from the screen, which still brightens up the picture for your daytime viewing. Also the Hi-Power does a great job of rejecting ambiant light coming from the sides of the rroom (another benifit for daytime viewing). Alot of people don't even consider these screens for their ceiling monted projectors because of the retro-reflective nature of them, but trust me, I use a 106" one with my ceiling mounted 4805 and could not be happier!!!

The other good news is these screens are cheap. You can get a 106" Model B manual pulldown for under $280, and then you can use it as is (manual pulldown), Or you can cut the screen from the case and mount it on a DIY frame for a more proffesional look.

with 7-1/2 foot ceilings would it be better to ceiling mount or coffee table mount the IN76 for a 130" screen?

with 7-1/2 foot ceilings would it be better to ceiling mount or coffee table mount the IN76 for a 130" screen?

If you want the full potential of the HIpower 2.8 gain, do the table mount. Otherwise get about 1.5 gain with the ceiling mount.

Not a lot of variables involved. Simple decision process.

I am not using a Hipower screen. Just a regular homade screen.

with 7-1/2 foot ceilings would it be better to ceiling mount or coffee table mount the IN76 for a 130" screen?

Yikes, is this even possible either way (with the 15% offset of this projector) - -is probably a better question?

If it is not possible what is the biggest I can go? What website can I go to in order to see what the offset is and do some calculations?

If it is not possible what is the biggest I can go? What website can I go to in order to see what the offset is and do some calculations?

I don't believe table mount would be possible -- it is either floor or ceiling.

Lets assume a flush ceiling mount (where your lens is actually as close as it can be to the ceiling).

You have a 90 inch wall (7 feet 6 inches) and a screen height of roughly 64 inches. If you multiply 64 x .16 (its about a 16% offset) you get 10.25 (lets say 11 inches). So you have to start the image at 90 minus 11 = 79.

So you only have 79 inches to play with. The screen is roughly 64 inches tall I think. That means the bottom of your screen will be only 15 inches off the ground.

However, you have to add probably a minimum of 6 inches for the ceiling mount and the lens itself from where it is on the projector. So you can probably do it, but the bottom of the screen will be maybe 9 inches off the ground.

I'm intrigued. What exactly is "poster snot"?

Poster snot is my own crude term for the bars of gum like adhesive you can get at any Wal~Mart type store that is advertised for hanging posters and the like. I like using the term disposable snot rags for facial tissues too :) .

How come more of the authorized sellers aren't being competitive with the IN76? If you check the HD72 they are almost all in sync, but the IN76 varies up to $1K between forum sponsors!!!
What the? Don't some of these vendors want to actually SELL the IN76?

d

I've been messing with my htpc/in76 and I'm trying to understand exactly what is going on.

In the specs for the in76
http://www.infocus.com/Products/Projectors/IN76.aspx

I see this "V-Sync Range: 50 - 85Hz"

Does this mean that if I were to get my htpc to ouput at 47.925hz or whatever the optimal setting is that my display would have to do something internally to either speed up the refresh to the range or will it actually display it at 47.925hz which contradicts the specs.

This leads me to my next question, If I give the in76 50hz is it going to display it at 50 frames per second or is it going to fool with this internally to get it to 60hz since that is the ntsc standard.

I've been messing with my htpc/in76 and I'm trying to understand exactly what is going on.

In the specs for the in76
http://www.infocus.com/Products/Projectors/IN76.aspx

I see this "V-Sync Range: 50 - 85Hz"

Does this mean that if I were to get my htpc to ouput at 47.925hz or whatever the optimal setting is that my display would have to do something internally to either speed up the refresh to the range or will it actually display it at 47.925hz which contradicts the specs.

This leads me to my next question, If I give the in76 50hz is it going to display it at 50 frames per second or is it going to fool with this internally to get it to 60hz since that is the ntsc standard.

The IN7X projectors will frame-lock to sources from 48 to 62 Hz. This means that the internal frame rate of the projector will match your source for this range. Also, for 24 Hz and 30 Hz sources the frame rate will be internally doubled to achieve a rate (48 and 60 Hz respectively) that the projector can frame-lock to.

The IN7X projectors will frame-lock to sources from 48 to 62 Hz. This means that the internal frame rate of the projector will match your source for this range. Also, for 24 Hz and 30 Hz sources the frame rate will be internally doubled to achieve a rate (48 and 60 Hz respectively) that the projector can frame-lock to.

Bob,
I, and others, are seeing stuttering or dropped frames with the IN72 and the custom resolution numbers for the Bravo D1 and the 4805, specifically the 48Hz (47.952Hz) numbers from the first post in the Bravo/4805 thread.

I don't have a 4805 but I guess people are happy with those custom numbers but my IN72 doesn't seem to like them very much. I see stuttering/dropped frames a few times with every DVD.

Could you help us out here?

Thanks,
George -bub

Bob,
I, and others, are seeing stuttering or dropped frames with the IN72 and the custom resolution numbers for the Bravo D1 and the 4805, specifically the 48Hz (47.952Hz) numbers from the first post in the Bravo/4805 thread.

I don't have a 4805 but I guess people are happy with those custom numbers but my IN72 doesn't seem to like them very much. I see stuttering/dropped frames a few times with every DVD.

Could you help us out here?

Thanks,
George -bub
We've tested that configuration in our labs and have not been able to reproduce the problem. Are there specific scenes on a DVD where we could confirm the issue?

We've tested that configuration in our labs and have not been able to reproduce the problem. Are there specific scenes on a DVD where we could confirm the issue?

Thanks Bob, I appreciate your concern...

Ok, I see stuttering/frame drops on every DVD I watch. It happens about 3-6 times that I notice on each DVD. It usually happens right after a scene change and lasts maybe a second or two. Sometimes, it will go on for maybe 10 seconds, although this is rare.

On the 'Going South' DVD, scenes 5 at 48:20 - 48:28 and scene 8 1:09:30 - 1:10:30 are the good examples I can come up with off the top of my head.

I can certainly keep notes from now on for each time I see it and submit them to you.

I am using the D1 and the custom resolution numbers (from the first post in the 4805/D1 thread),
23688 4795
0854 0480
1110 0044
0128 0084
0494 0001
0003 0010
0000 0000

Bob, are these the same numbers you are using? Also, have you done the capacitor modification and/or any other modifications to your D1 as far as isolating any vibrations or securing the capacitors on the power supply board? Have you replaced the loader or still using the original FUSS loader?

Again, thank you Bob for your interest in this issue. If there is anything at all I can do to help clarify, whatever, please do not hesitate to let me know.

George -bub

Interesting display doing the upgrade on an IN76. For the controller board information, it lists the PN as INVALID. Is that normal? Also, it seems real slow.

Finally what does the config button do, and why does it need a password?

I would like to make a request to Bob for future firmware versions to incorporate further control of the sharpness levels. The current ‘standard’ level is slightly too soft for my liking, however the ‘sharper’ level is too harsh. A level that is somewhere in between would be great, or better still a sliding bar similar to that of the contrast, brightness and colour level controls. I do believe that this would be most welcome by many IN7x owners.

I have also upgraded the firmware version on my IN76, and although the noise level is slightly more refined, the difference is not as great as I had initially hoped. Other than that the IN76 is a fantastic projector.

23688 4795
0854 0480
1110 0044
0128 0084
0494 0001
0003 0010
0000 0000Try these numbers:BRAVO D1 854x480@48Hz DVI Custom Settings:

Horizontal Freq 23687 Vertical Freq 4795
Video Width 0854 Video Height 0480
HSyncTotal 1032 PreHSync 0008
HsyncActive 0080 PostHSync 0088
VSyncTotal 0494 PreVSync 0003
VSyncActive 0007 PostVSync 0004
HSyncPolarity 0000 VSyncPolarity 0000

Interesting display doing the upgrade on an IN76. For the controller board information, it lists the PN as INVALID. Is that normal? Also, it seems real slow.

Finally what does the config button do, and why does it need a password?

it takes a few minutes. turn off hybernation or sleep if you're using a notebook. ;)

invalid comes up on mine too. it will work fine. don't worry about config.

hi,

what cable should i use to connect bravo d1 to IN72? DVI to M1 or something else?

thanks,
trent

what cable should i use to connect bravo d1 to IN72? DVI to M1 or something else?DVI to M1-DA or DVI to HDMI. Doesn't much matter which.

Hi guys, I pretty much have narrowed it down to these 2 PJs, the IN76 or the Mits. I am moderately rainbow sensitive so I am curious. I read a favorable review of the Mits hc3000 but the writer stated that he noticed rainbows more on this PJ than average. I am just talking about the 4x color wheel models. I was considering the Optoma h78 with the 5x wheel but the bulb olympics spooked me.
Can anyone comment on RBE for these 2 PJ's?

Thanks! d

rainbows for those afflicted will be triggered with higher contrast images. You increase the bright white of these images using the white peaking feature - or the brilliant color feature (since you cross posted to HC3000 same query). They are also triggered with brighter images - which depends on your screen size/gain setup. They are also triggered based on viewing distance. They are also triggered based on the number of rainbow posts on AVS you have read, or by violently waving your fingers in front of your face.

You need to go see projectors in proper setups to decide if you can see rainbows and not rely on the opinion of reviewers on that topic.

Dude, I just stated that I am moderately rainbow sensitive in my post. I owned an Optoma h57 for almost a year. Did you just cut and paste a standard rainbow info. question answer into your post?!?!? They are also triggered based on the number of rainbow posts on AVS you have read, or by violently waving your fingers in front of your face. No offense, but that was kind of a stupid smart-ass answer and considering your status here and the number of posts you have made, quite surprising.

sheesh

rainbows ... are also triggered based on the number of rainbow posts on AVS you have read, or by violently waving your fingers in front of your face.Bravo!

that was kind of a stupid smart-ass answer and considering your status here and the number of posts you have madeDave, for someone with your number of posts, your question "Can anyone comment on RBE for these 2 PJ's?" is a little disappointing. Krasmuzik's comments are right on the money!

Dude, what is YOUR problem?!?! I was asking for a constuctive opinion SPECIFICALLY about RBE with 2 PJ's. Where I live I do not have the ability to see these 2 PJ's in person before ordering. Are you one of those who think RBE does not exist? If so and you have not experienced it, hooray for you! You're a lucky guy! Go play Lotto! I actually had it quite bad when I first got my h57, to the point where I almost returned it to go with LCD...
If you read back in the h57 thread you will see what I wrote when I first got my PJ...
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=553404&page=5&pp=30
post # 148...
"OK, here goes...
Good news and bad news,,,,
Good news... PQ is awesome. Even with minimal adjustments, wow. Wayne was right about the colors. No evidence of macroblocking with my zenith with the faroudja. Bright as hell. I have the contrast on 35 and it's bright in a darkened room.
Bad news... Apparently the 4:3 option only works with computer? Not through component, I believe at 1080i. I'll try at 480P.
And the BAD news. Apparently I am highly susceptible to rainbows. And I mean, I see ALOT of them. At least one every 10 seconds or so. Mostly in a dark scene where there's a strong contrast, like a light. ANGEL and The Crow show this very obviously. On NEMO, I didn't see any. It could be that my projector is too bright, the bulb is new, I might need a filter, I dunno. Gonna fully calibrate tonite. Good news is my fiancee doesn't see them.

No headaches though, so I have my fingers crossed.

More tom'w! d "

People urged me to stick it out for awhile and try an Ndh2 filter which I did and which helped. It got better, I kept the PJ but still would see rainbows depending on the material. The reason I asked about these 2 PJ's is I read a review where the hc3000 had more noticeable RBE than others in the price range. Some people have seen both PJs. Some people are susceptible to RBE. Replying with some 1/2 assed comment like "waving your fingers in front of your face" or implying that it's pysychosomatic based on reading opinions on AVS is unconstuctive and quite immature IMHO. I didn't ask "Hey! What's RBE?!?! Does it really exist? What are my chances of seeing it?!?!" I asked specifically in relation to these 2 PJ's what people's opinions were. Making wiseass comments is akin to thread farting in my book.

d

Dave, it sounds like you will see RBE with any DLP projector no matter what the speed. You probably need to get an LCD.

Get back on track guys. All further rainbow discussion in this thread will be deleted. We have a dedicated thread for rainbows if you wish to continue.

Kyser

I need to upgrade the firmware on my IN72. Can I go straight to version 2.6 or do I have to load 2.5 first?

You're right Kyser, sorry it went off the rails.

:)

Okay... after what seems like years of reading the 4805 (and H31) threads and owning a 4805 for some time, I would like to start reading about the IN76. The problem is this thread is nothing like the 4805 threads we had.

There is none of the pioneering energy we had in the past. Why so? Where are the fanboy posts so I can start anticipating my next purchase?
:D :D :D

Thanks,
PS Would it be worth it to start a IN76 "owners" thread. I know we discussed this in the past... thoughts?

Just got my IN76--first projector. Wondering which screens you guys are using, likes, dislikes, size, etc.

I too have a 4805 and considering a new projector for my new place. I just started following this thread and will try to read most of the previous posts, however, just quickly if someone has a quick answer as to why I would choose a IN72 vs IN74 vs IN76. AFAIK, only the IN76 is true HD. Any quick start help and guidance is greatly appreciated.

why I would choose a IN72 vs IN74 vs IN76IMHO:

The IN72 will provide the best PQ for standard resolution (480p) DVDs and SDTV (but your SP4805 already does that, virtually as well); the IN74 is a 576p PAL unit designed for Europe and is a stupid choice in North America; the IN76 is a great machine for FOX, ESPN and ABC HDTV (720p) and is good for less apparent SDE at closer seating distances for all other sources compared to the SP4805/IN72.

If your SP4805 is operating well and your seating is 2x screen width or more, save your money for a 1080p unit to match a future 1080p HD-DVD player.

cavu, since your advice usually carries the most weight, are you stating I should get another 4805 (I am leaving my current one in the old house) or get an IN72 since there will be a 1080p in the future and the IN74 is not for US usage?

-Tradewinds
The scaler in the IN76 is reported to handle 1080 sources quite well. So if you want an HD projector that will satisfy you until the 1080 units hit a price point you can afford, I'd see it as a viable choice. Kevivoe has an HD-A1 HD-DVD player and this projector, you could try to PM him for his comments on the projectors performance with a pristine 1080 source.

-John
I am using a Da-Lite HCCV 110" screen with mine. I love what it does for the overall black level. But I am occasionally distracted by the sparkle the screen imparts to very bright scenes. Still to me the better blacks outweigh the occasional sparkle I see.

Has anyone mounted one of these PJ's upside down on the back of a high shelf etc.. using the Radio shack pads or a similar settup? Can you post a pic?

Thanks

thanks jeahrens for the advice. Since the IN74 is eliminated, the decision is between a 4805, IN72 or IN76. I don't think there is much reason in getting an IN72 over a 4805 since the 4805 is just as good for now and cost about half(correct?).

So, for the extra cost knowing I will have only HD from the OTA locals (FOX, ABC etc.), is it worth going to the IN76 or wait for the HD-DVD and the 1080 FP to both come down to a resonable cost?

BTW - I have a D1 Bravo as DVD player at the moment.

Also, does the IN72 and IN76 work better in a light control room using HCCV or matt white?

THanks.

Has anyone mounted one of these PJ's upside down on the back of a high shelf etc.. using the Radio shack pads or a similar settup? Can you post a pic?

Thanks
I'd be interested in the same thing.

Just got my IN76--first projector. Wondering which screens you guys are using, likes, dislikes, size, etc.

IN76 with 118" BW from Carada, Criterion frame. I'm very impressed so far, pic is bright & punchy, frame itself is made very well and easy to put together, and above all the cust svc at Carada is outstanding.

I am using a Da-Lite HCCV 110" screen with mine. I love what it does for the overall black level. But I am occasionally distracted by the sparkle the screen imparts to very bright scenes. Still to me the better blacks outweigh the occasional sparkle I see.

Hmmm...1.1 gain--ever find yourself wanting for more brightness? This is encouraging.

are you stating I should get another 4805 or get an IN72 since there will be a 1080p in the future and the IN74 is not for US usage?I think I stated it as clearly as I could: "If your SP4805 is operating well and your seating is 2x screen width or more", yes.

You WILL NOT get better bang for the buck than an SP4805 at today's prices!! If you look around, you can get an IN72 for not much more! (The IN72 is sexier. But recent issues with image jitter dropped frames and the inability of the IN7x series to do 72Hz cause me pause.)

With seating at 2x screen width or more, you will be very hard pressed to distinguish any difference between the SP4805/IN72 and the IN76, particulary with regard to the amount of money spent. You do the math.

As you are using a D1 (I assume 1:1 pixel-mapped), you WILL NOT get better PQ from your standard def DVDs and, as you probably know already, the HDTV performance is spectacular.

Save your money for the next round!

IMHO.

IN76 with 118" BW from Carada, Criterion frame. I'm very impressed so far, pic is bright & punchy, frame itself is made very well and easy to put together, and above all the cust svc at Carada is outstanding.

My exact setup and I concur with the comments about the screen and Carada.

I think I stated it as clearly as I could: "If your SP4805 is operating well and your seating is 2x screen width or more", yes.

You WILL NOT get better bang for the buck than an SP4805 at today's prices!! If you look around, you can get an IN72 for not much more! (The IN72 is sexier. But recent issues with image jitter and the inability of the IN7x series to do 72Hz cause me pause.)

With seating at 2x screen width or more, you will be very hard pressed to distinguish any difference between the SP4805/IN72 and the IN76, particulary with regard to the amount of money spent. You do the math.

As you are using a D1 (I assume 1:1 pixel-mapped), you WILL NOT get better PQ from your standard def DVDs and, as you probably know already, the HDTV performance is spectacular.

Save your money for the next round!

IMHO.

Thanks cavu as always. Well, off I go to hunt for a good deal on another 4805. I wouldn't mine the IN72 for a good deal but I am not sure I want to have issues with image jitter cropping up. Where does the 72hz become an issue?

I am not sure I want to have issues with image jitter cropping up. Where does the 72hz become an issue?It may be a non-issue but user Bub is having some unexplained dropped frames (sorry - "jitter" is the wrong description) at a 48Hz refresh rate.

These custom 48Hz and 72Hz refresh rates are used to eliminate 3:2 pulldown jitter when viewing film DVDs; the SP4805 handles both very well but for some reason Bob removed 72Hz functionality from the IN7x series.

The IN7x series is restricted to 48 through 62Hz refresh rates.

For those with both an IN72 and an IN76....this is for you guys

I am at an impass with the decision to go ahead and pick up another 72 or hold out and save up twice as much for the 76. I do mostly HD watching and am currently using a 42 samsung plasma. Had to take the 72 back a couple of months ago cause I needed the cash for a boat. Now that I got the cash back, and have inherited a 42" plasma, I wanted to move it to the bedroom and experience FP again in all it's 110" glory.

The question...will I notice a $1300 difference (or should I say is the HD picture quality worth that) to bump up to the 76?

Gotta make a decision quick, the poor blacks of the new samsung plasma and the miniscule picture has got me jonesing for that big screen goodness ASAP.

Cheers and thanks!

It may be a non-issue but user Bub is having some unexplained dropped frames (sorry - "jitter" is the wrong description) at a 48Hz refresh rate.

These custom 48Hz and 72Hz refresh rates are used to eliminate 3:2 pulldown jitter when viewing film DVDs; the SP4805 handles both very well but for some reason Bob removed 72Hz functionality from the IN7x series.

The IN7x series is restricted to 48 through 62Hz refresh rates.

So, in my effort to sum all this up, since the 4805 and the IN72 are about the same price and the 4805 handles up to 72hz with no drop frames, then the added benefits of the IN72 (HDMI, sealed optics, sexy looks etc) may not be worth it. I have an HDMI switch so I really do not need (I think) multiple digital inputs on the FP.

Maybe my best bet is really to keep my current 4805 and put in another FP in the old house (any recommendations which other FP for low cost will look good to a house buyer? I will be loosing on the house sale already since house prices are normalizing from the boom days)

Thanks.

As an addendum to my previous post. This is all assuming that I can adjust my seating arrangement to eliminate any SDE from the ED model.

-Tradewinds
The scaler in the IN76 is reported to handle 1080 sources quite well. So if you want an HD projector that will satisfy you until the 1080 units hit a price point you can afford, I'd see it as a viable choice. Kevivoe has an HD-A1 HD-DVD player and this projector, you could try to PM him for his comments on the projectors performance with a pristine 1080 source.


Pretty fantastic with a 118" diagonal. A noticable improvement over 480p Denon DVD player that I never use anymore since getting the HD-A1. I use 1080i out of the HD-A1 to the IN76 for best results. I use the same settings for SD-DVD's as well.

kevivoe

Hmmm...1.1 gain--ever find yourself wanting for more brightness? This is encouraging.

Nope. I am currently running my DVD player with the brightness set at -3 as it is to bright for me at default. I was originally projecting it against a white wall and HCCV matieral helps a lot with the black level. It is also very watchable with a fair amount of ambient light.

For those with both an IN72 and an IN76....this is for you guys

I am at an impass with the decision to go ahead and pick up another 72 or hold out and save up twice as much for the 76. I do mostly HD watching and am currently using a 42 samsung plasma. Had to take the 72 back a couple of months ago cause I needed the cash for a boat. Now that I got the cash back, and have inherited a 42" plasma, I wanted to move it to the bedroom and experience FP again in all it's 110" glory.

The question...will I notice a $1300 difference (or should I say is the HD picture quality worth that) to bump up to the 76?

Gotta make a decision quick, the poor blacks of the new samsung plasma and the miniscule picture has got me jonesing for that big screen goodness ASAP.

Cheers and thanks!

Well only you can ultimately answer this. With the Blu-Ray and HD-DVD picking up steam in the next few years and the ever increasing HD selection on satellite and cable I couldn't see not getting HD. As Kevivoe kindly chimed in above, the IN76 and HD-DVD are a pretty nice match up. One I hope to see in my own home soon :).

Nope. I am currently running my DVD player with the brightness set at -3 as it is to bright for me at default. I was originally projecting it against a white wall and HCCV matieral helps a lot with the black level. It is also very watchable with a fair amount of ambient light.

I have samples of the HCCV and I am not sure I like it. I still project to a "white wall" of my own formulation. We have found that only a couple of manufactured screens beat it in terms of gain. I perfer a lack of diffusion for HDTV and now HD-DVD sources as well. Most screens diffuse the light making the image appear softer than I like for HD sources.

Anyhow, here is a link to my setup.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7895230&&#post7895230

k

I haven't noticed the HCCV being less sharp than throwing it on the wall, what I do notice is a sparkle effect on very bright scenes. Interestingly washing the screen seemed to help some. But some of the sparkle is still there. It is a compromise I am willing to live with for the enhancement to black level.

Here's a shot I took over the lunch hour with a high amount of ambient light. Contrast is actually better than what my camera indicates.

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h312/jeahrens/pulse_day.jpg

By comparison here is a night shot of King Kong (camera imparts a slight red hue)

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h312/jeahrens/kong.jpg

Screenshots aren't all that accurate for this sort of thing. But it at least gives an idea.

Damn short throw projectors. I'm I the only one who doesn't like a PJ to be right on top of me? I was seriously considering a IN76 until I looked at its throw ratio. The IN76 and a HD-DVD player should be a great match until 1080p dlp are out and affordable. Seems alot easier to find high end projectors with long throws than cheaper ones. I guess manufacturers figure someone dropping $10k on a PJ has a larger room?

i'm reading some users having issue like stutters with the IN* series using the Bravo D1. has anyone successfully done 1:1 pixel mapping without issues with this combination? i'm thinking of getting the D1, but want to make sure that i can do pixel mapping.

thanks,
trent

stutters are an issue of frame-lock not pixel mapping...

Yikes, is this even possible either way (with the 15% offset of this projector) - -is probably a better question?



If I were to get a IN76, and put it in the exact same location as my current X1, how much lower will my screen be to the ground? Basically, I'm trying to find out how bad the offset is compared to the X1.

If I were to get a IN76, and put it in the exact same location as my current X1, how much lower will my screen be to the ground?I'm not sure exactly how much research, guessing and calculation you expect us to do, but it would be easier if you provided a couple of basic facts: Distance to screen Screen format (X1 default is 4:3 - IN76 is 16:9) Screen sizeBut assuming 16:9 and that you can actually duplicate the same size image with the different, but overlapping, throw ratios, the answer is 16.9% of the screen height!

"It sometimes looks like we're reflexively rude to newbies and the ignorant. But this isn't really true.

What we are, unapologetically, is hostile to people who seem to be unwilling to think or to do their own homework before asking questions."

I recommend that you read: How To Ask Questions The Smart Way (http://www.catb.org/~esr/faqs/smart-questions.html#intro) !

Or simply use the screen calulators provided by Infocus on their website for this purpose and figure it out yourself.

jeahrens,

I was just looking at the first photo in your recent post. Take a look at the top of your center speaker. See the reflection off the screen bouncing back at you there? You don't need to do anything about it if it doesn't bother you but if it were mine I'd cover it with black felt material to reduce/eliminate the shininess of it. You'd be surprised how many reflective surfaces we all have in our rooms that can affect the images we're seeing. I've covered the glass in my attorney's bookcase with felt material and placed the same material over my coffee table and also over some pictures on the wall at the back. I even painted the fins flat black on my ceiling fan. :D

If you have enough of these things in your room that are reflecting light from the screen back onto it, it will negatively impact on the image.

Just an observation. :)

Wayne

Mystery,

That's a fair point. The center doesn't seem to reflect any light back at the screen that I have noticed (I've never covered it to be sure though). I'll probably investigate it when it gets moved into its permanent location. In my current rental the screen is about 2 ft away from the wall hung from two plant hooks in the ceiling with cat 5 cable tied between them. The screen hooks are made from a coat hangar :) . If you look at the image framing on the screen you can tell it's not square, the plant hooks in the ceiling aren't aligned. The projector didn't escape my "ghetto engineering" either, it's hung from a stand made by 2x4's behind the couch. It's not pretty, but it did keep me from tearing up the rental house.

In my new home the projector will be anchored to the ceiling and the screen secured on the wall. With the screen on the wall and the center and L/R channels about 3ft out that should hopefully eliminate reflection interaction with the speakers. The walls in the new room will be painted a dark color, but the ceiling, which is heavily textured, will remain white. I am wondering what to do about the possibility of ceiling reflections on the screen. I've been thinking of putting a little curtain at the top or painting a portion of the ceiling. Any thoughts?

I'm not sure exactly how much research, guessing and calculation you expect us to do, but it would be easier if you provided a couple of basic facts: Distance to screen Screen format (X1 default is 4:3 - IN76 is 16:9) Screen sizeBut assuming 16:9 and that you can actually duplicate the same size image with the different, but overlapping, throw ratios, the answer is 16.9% of the screen height!

"It sometimes looks like we're reflexively rude to newbies and the ignorant. But this isn't really true.

What we are, unapologetically, is hostile to people who seem to be unwilling to think or to do their own homework before asking questions."

I recommend that you read: How To Ask Questions The Smart Way (http://www.catb.org/~esr/faqs/smart-questions.html#intro) !

Or simply use the screen calulators provided by Infocus on their website for this purpose and figure it out yourself.



Well, when I first got my X1, I did tons of calculations and all that, but I was thinking that I wouldn't need to do all of that just to know if the screen was going to be like 10 inches lower to the ground or whatever. Sorry, I was just trying to ask a quick question. In regards to the begining of your post, and your question regarding a few basic facts, here are some of them:


1. Distance to Screen : The distance from my projector to the screen is roughly 22 feet or so. (I'm not using any zoom on my X1, and I'm running it in 16:9 mode, and the screen is exactly 113 inches diagonal at this distance)
2. Screen Format : I've been using my X1 is 16:9 mode and my screen is 16:9
3. Screen Size: My screen size is 113 inches diagonal 16:9

I had exact measurements written down somewhere for my exact ceiling height, and a more precise distance from the projector to the screen, but I can't seem to find it now. I think my ceiling height is 8 feet 2 inches. The ceiling mount that I have for my X1 is pretty flush with the ceiling, I would say the projector is like 4 or 5 inches from the ceiling, probably closer to 4. I'm not sure what kind of ceiling mounts are available for the IN76 and how flush with the ceiling they can get. The very bottom of my 113 inch screen is about 22 inches off the ground, which is already lower than I would prefer.


I'm guessing that maybe the IN76 would be a very bad idea for me if I were to ceiling mount it, and I pretty much need to ceiling mount whichever projector I get. damn.

Max distance on that screen is going to be right at 16ft. With your exising mount the screen would be about 15" (4" mount + 2.5" lens centerline + 8.6" for offset) from the ceiling. Keep in mind this is the top of the image, not the framing.

For a 113" diagonal 16:9 screen.

The IN76 needs to be 12.6" to 15.9" from the screen to the lens. The center of the lens needs to be 9 1/4" above the top of the screen for a ceiling mount.

The X1 by comparison needs to be 15.5" to 18.6" from the screen to the lens. The center of the lens needs to be 18 1/4" above the top of the screen for 16:9 mode.

You can get a ceiling mount for either the X1 or IN76 that will get it within 2" of the ceiling. But, unless you raise your screen you are more likely to need an extension tube for the IN76 to work where your screen is now.

Hope this helps.

Bob

1. Distance to Screen : The distance from my projector to the screen is roughly 22 feet or so. (I'm not using any zoom on my X1, and I'm running it in 16:9 mode, and the screen is exactly 113 inches diagonal at this distance)
2. Screen Format : I've been using my X1 is 16:9 mode and my screen is 16:9
3. Screen Size: My screen size is 113 inches diagonal 16:9Well, you see, we have a problem right there:The X1 spec states that for a 113" (d) screen, the projection distance is 15.51-18.63 feet while the IN76 requires 12.56-15.92 feet. This is using the online calculator; the downloadable calculator give slightly different results but the gist is the same.The only way you could achieve the same image size from the same distance with these two projectors would be if the projection distance was between 15.51-15.92 feet with one at minimum and the other at maximum zoom.

How you are shooting a 113" screen from 22ft (!?) with an X1, and staying in focus, is a mystery.

Regardless of that fact, you will not likely be able to use the same mounting position.

So dig out your measuring tape and start fresh by measuring your real projection distance.

Well, you see, we have a problem right there:The X1 spec states that for a 113" (d) screen, the projection distance is 15.51-18.63 feet while the IN76 requires 12.56-15.92 feet. This is using the online calculator; the downloadable calculator give slightly different results but the gist is the same.The only way you could achieve the same image size from the same distance with these two projectors would be if the projection distance was between 15.51-15.92 feet with one at minimum and the other at maximum zoom.

How you are shooting a 113" screen from 22ft (!?) with an X1, and staying in focus, is a mystery.

Regardless of that fact, you will not likely be able to use the same mounting position.

So dig out your measuring tape and start fresh by measuring your real projection distance.


Ok, maybe the 22 feet is my sitting distance. It's probably 18 feet for the projector. I have a tape measure but I need my wife to hold it to get the exact measurements. I did all that back when I first bought it, and I had it saved to a word pad document, but I can't find it. Later tonite I'll get my wife to help me measure it. Now that I think about it, I think 18 feet is right, but I'll check for the exact figures. I'm definitely not using any zoom, and it's 113 inches diagonally, and the ceiling is about a quarter inch short of 8 feet 2 inches.

What mount will get the lens of the IN76 as close to the ceiling as possible?

I have a 7' 8" ceiling, so to get a 110 inch screen 24 inches or more off the ground, I need to get the lens real real close to the ceiling.

What mount can do this?

Thanks.

Chief RPA-U is the best

Chief RPA-U is the best

But how close does that get the lens to the ceiling -- I can't find any details on that? And will it work with a drop ceiling to flush mount as close as possible. Its hard to see how those things actually connect to the ceiling.

I need to know before I buy a certain size screen.

Chief RPA-U is the best

+1

+1


What does +1 mean??? Please elaborate.

I just bought a Peerless universal mount for my H78 and my drop is only about 3". It's really a ceiling hugger. :)

jeahrens,

Your set up reminds me somewhat of my own. I have a 106" screen hanging from the ceiling via swag lamp hooks screwed into joists and then utilizing turnbuckles for fine tuning the level of the casing. I'm also using S hooks and chain links. This screen drops in front of my 64" CRT RPTV.

I admire your inventiveness and ingenuity. No way are you going to let a simple thing like a landlord stop you from front projection! :)

Although you may not notice the reflection off of the speaker bouncing back onto the screen, it may still be doing so but in an indirect way. Light has a way of hopping around and it seems to seek reflective surfaces.

Your white ceiling is unfortunate. If at all possible, darken the ceiling as well as the walls. That's what I did. I let my wife choose a semi-dark color and it went from white to a medium toned green. Painting part of it would help but might look worse than painting all of it. You could possibly rig up some sort of an awning to place over the top of your screen that might cut down on ambient light from the ceiling.

You may want to consider a grey based screen although if you have dark walls, the images may appear a little too dim with a screen like that. That has been my experience anyway.

Here's what I did: I bought a retro-reflective High Power screen and we painted the off-white side walls green and the white ceiling a slightly lighter shade of green. Then we painted the back wall and about 20% of the ceiling at the back wall a flat black. This ceiling portion is a false ceiling that isn't contoured like the rest so it doesn't look bad. By painting the back wall and some of the ceiling black, we've cut down and mostly eliminated reflections caused by the High Power screen. It seems to have been a great solution.

Wayne

All I can say is THUMBS UP. I am now convinced that when inverted, my projector was going almost into high-power mode for fan speed. Now that I've downloaded Version 2.4, this thing is whisper quiet in comparison. I may have an extreme case, but this is VERY noticeable. Enjoy 2.4 converters!

I must retract my previous claim that the noise level didn't improve much after the 2.4 upgrade.

I reflashed my IN76 with 2.4 firmware after reading Mitch's and Jeff's observations. Now, I concur that the sound level in normal mode is much subdued than before, and it is a definitely discernible improvement. I confirmed that the service menu showed "Firmware 2.4" before reflashing. So all I can say is what the hey. :D

To me, it is still something to appreciate for the sake of appreciating - i.e. I have to mute the receiver to notice the improvement. I also found it interesting how much quieter it is if I moved just one seat over to the left from my normal seat at the center.

330 hrs. and going strong., but I started seeing lamp flickering in normal mode which requires switching to high power mode to remedy - something else to obssess over - and, unlike the fan noise, even the slightest flicker really bothers me, so I'll be keeping a close eye to see if it worsens noticeably. The fan noise in high power mode is very easy to ignore for me, which isn't something I can claim for my 4805 (which is still in service.) I think I'm noticing that it is a bit dimmer than when it was new, but the picture is still bright and beautiful.

Happy viewing. :D

hi,

does anyone know if i can safely use the three screw mount holes in the inner part of the IN72 instead of the outer ones? i'm trying to use mandarax's X1 mount and if the inner holes are fine to mount the projector then it should be a simple modification, just a matter of drilling three new holes to the plate. i've attached some pics.

thanks,
trent

can I safely use the three screw mount holes in the inner part of the IN72 instead of the outer ones?No.

This has been discussed earlier (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7725712&&#post7725712) and the essence was: "the three innermost mounting positions are ONLY for the base mount. The other three outermost mounting positions are to be used for ceiling mounts".

But how close does that get the lens to the ceiling -- I can't find any details on that? And will it work with a drop ceiling to flush mount as close as possible. Its hard to see how those things actually connect to the ceiling.

I need to know before I buy a certain size screen.

5.125 to 5.250 inches from lens center to ceiling using the flush mount plate of the Chief RPA-U and an IN76.

k

5.125 to 5.250 inches from lens center to ceiling using the flush mount plate of the Chief RPA-U and an IN76.

k

How does that attach to a drop ceiling though? I'm not sure how you physically attach these mounts to a standard 2 x 2 tile drop ceiling?

Wayne,
Thanks for the tips. I may end up painting the ceiling, though I must admit it does not look like fun. I saw a picture where a semi circle of the ceiling was painted (kevivoe?) and that looked alright. I imagine when I get into the project I will adopt a do it right mentality. But man does that ceiling look like a pain to paint.

Caesar1,
If you have a drop ceiling why not make your own mount? If it were me I would measure one of the tiles and fabricate a panel (plywood or some other matieral should work). You could then mount the projector directly to the new panel. Secure the panel to the ceiling, paint it, make some nice holes for cable routing and you'd be good to go. It would be as flush as you are going to get it.

What does +1 mean??? Please elaborate.

It means another vote for the Chief RPA-U

Wayne,
Caesar1,
If you have a drop ceiling why not make your own mount?


If you only knew how funny that was. I'm one of those guys who don't make anything. I just need to know what to buy -- then I hire others to do it. Which is why I'll never be rich.

How does that attach to a drop ceiling though? I'm not sure how you physically attach these mounts to a standard 2 x 2 tile drop ceiling?

While Jeahrens' suggestion may work, I'd be concerned about weight pulling out of the frame. If you use the Chief mount (or any mount designed to accept a 1 1/2" extension tube), you could find a more substantial mounting surface above your ceiling tiles, make the measurements, head to Home Depot, have the correct length 1 1/2" pipe cut to length and threaded. Then you'll be rock solid. Plus, any height adjustments down the road (new projector, different location, etc.) are easily made by getting another custom-length piece of pipe cut.

While Jeahrens' suggestion may work, I'd be concerned about weight pulling out of the frame. If you use the Chief mount (or any mount designed to accept a 1 1/2" extension tube), you could find a more substantial mounting surface above your ceiling tiles, make the measurements, head to Home Depot, have the correct length 1 1/2" pipe cut to length and threaded. Then you'll be rock solid. Plus, any height adjustments down the road (new projector, different location, etc.) are easily made by getting another custom-length piece of pipe cut.

Don't worry, I will be hiring pros to do the projector install and screen install -- just want to see what is best to purchase -- in case I buy the equipment in advance. And I want to make sure I can fit a 110 inch screen with a 7' 8" ceiling, with the IN76 (and still have the screen at least 24 inches above the ground).

For those with both an IN72 and an IN76....this is for you guys

I am at an impass with the decision to go ahead and pick up another 72 or hold out and save up twice as much for the 76. I do mostly HD watching and am currently using a 42 samsung plasma. Had to take the 72 back a couple of months ago cause I needed the cash for a boat. Now that I got the cash back, and have inherited a 42" plasma, I wanted to move it to the bedroom and experience FP again in all it's 110" glory.

The question...will I notice a $1300 difference (or should I say is the HD picture quality worth that) to bump up to the 76?

Gotta make a decision quick, the poor blacks of the new samsung plasma and the miniscule picture has got me jonesing for that big screen goodness ASAP.

Cheers and thanks!

I have the IN76 hook-up to a Toshiba HD-DVD and a PVR 8300HD for HD sources and I also using a combo Oppo970HD with DVDO VP30/ABT102 scaler for SD-DVD. The combo Oppo970HD with VP30/ABT102 scaler is getting the most picture quality out of the SD-DVD format and when compared with the HD-DVD, the image quality of the HD-DVD is stunning. Conclusion, the IN76 for HD source do a really good job for 1080i source. I get the best quality image by sending the 1080i signal directly to the projector. The IN76 do a good job at de-interlacing and scaling it.

If you mainly watch HD source, the IN72 is not the right projector, save your money and get an IN76.

Anyone use the IN76 with a 110 inch screen (or larger) and sit as close as 10 feet? The review on projectorreviews of the IN76 said that you can sit as close as 9 feet without seeing SDE (pixels) that much -- other than in credits. Is that true?

I want to know if I can have a 110 inch 1:78 screen and sit (with my eyes) at about 10.5 feet -- without seeing all pixels all the time.

The review says you can -- but I need to hear from actual owners about this.

You will be fine with a 110" at 10.5 feet with an IN76. You might see some pixelization during credits or large areas of all the same color like in animations. But in everyday material you won't notice it at all.

I'd go with a pipe/ tube style mount and mount it in the ceiling. You can make it be very close to flush with the ceiling panel. By keeping it flush you would be able to have the screen 24" off the floor. I wouldn't mount it directly to plywood or other material on the back of the ceiling panel. It would work but you would have no adjustability at all except for using spacers.

Bob

hi,

anyone know if the firmware upgrade works on a mac osx 10.4?

UPDATE: it doesn't work, only pc it seems.

thanks,
trent

Does anyone know if the update can be done while still mounted on the ceiling? Would that make a difference at all?

Anyone use the IN76 with a 110 inch screen (or larger) and sit as close as 10 feet? The review on projectorreviews of the IN76 said that you can sit as close as 9 feet without seeing SDE (pixels) that much -- other than in credits. Is that true?

I want to know if I can have a 110 inch 1:78 screen and sit (with my eyes) at about 10.5 feet -- without seeing all pixels all the time.

The review says you can -- but I need to hear from actual owners about this.

I have a 118" screen at probably 13.5' or so. Even inside 10 feet with the 118" screen it isn't an issue.

Does anyone know if the update can be done while still mounted on the ceiling? Would that make a difference at all?

Yes, it can. No, it doesn't make a difference.

Would anybody know how I could minimize the NOISE IN THE VIDEO for my infocus IN72? Thanks. =)

Universal Ceiling Mount
(Part number: SP-CEIL-UNIV)

I just got my IN76 and ceiling mount. There are no intructions to be found for the mount. Can anyone direct me to some?


Thanks
:)

just have to dig through infocus website

http://www.infocus.com/service/IN72/resources.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&

While Jeahrens' suggestion may work, I'd be concerned about weight pulling out of the frame.

I would as well. When I stated that you would "secure the panel to the ceiling" I was implying you would use something (a 2x4 or 1x4?) to attach the panel to the actual ceiling and thus get the weight off of the frame. But since Caesar1 is not the DIY type and the Chief mount would be more flexible it sounds like a good way to go.

And as to the screen distance questions, I sit about 9ft from the screen in my setup and have yet to see any pixel structure in the image.

I know this is a subjective question, but I still want to ask. I currently have a Sony VPL-VW10HT that is 5 years old and needs a new lamp. Of course, it is older, LCD technology and doesn't have the contrast or the tighter pattern of the screen-door-effect or the new connectors like HDMI or DVI.

So, anyway, I am thinking of selling my 10HT and going to a new projector, something like the IN76. I have just started looking at projectors and this is one of the first I have considered. Do you guys think I should pull the trigger and go for this? I have a 100" Stewart Grayhawk screen, so the black levels should be really good, much, much better than what I have now. The IN76 also has a lower wattage bulb than mine, which means less heat produced, which is always good.

I have a few questions about it as well, such as which way does the fan pull the air through the case? I will be hanging the projector on the ceiling, and I currently have an air vent that starts up with the trigger output, but the vent is on the left side (facing the screen) when the PJ is on the ceiling. If the IN76 is reversed of that, I will have to plug the hole in the ceiling and start over with the vent.

Anyway, I just started reading up on this thread, and of course, it had to be 90+ pages on here, which is REALLY hard to get through, so I want to skip it if possible. I will be using the projector for HD viewing as well as regular DVD, I won't be going HD-DVD or Blu-Ray any time soon.

I have a few questions about it as well, such as which way does the fan pull the air through the case? I will be hanging the projector on the ceiling, and I currently have an air vent that starts up with the trigger output, but the vent is on the left side (facing the screen) when the PJ is on the ceiling. If the IN76 is reversed of that, I will have to plug the hole in the ceiling and start over with the vent.

If you were standing behind the projector with it facing towards the screen in front of you, I believe it pulls the air from the right and blows it out the left.

Conversly, if you were standing in front of the projector staring at the lens, it would be pulling from the left and blowing out the right.

Others can confirm that, but when I had my ladder on that side it was blowing hot air in my face.

Hmm, if that is correct (I beleive you, don't get me wrong) I may need to see if I can either re-do my set-up and plug the hole, like I was saying, or reverse the flow of the fan inside the projector. Hmm, not thinking I want to mod the projector like that. I will figure something out if I go with it. Heck, I am a mechanical guy...

Is there somebody that has been following this thread and dealing with the issues of each of the projectors that can make an easy list of the issues with the different models? It would be nice if the three models were split up into different threads, but they probably each have similarities and deserve to be in the same thread at the same time. Maybe somebody could edit one of their posts from the first page, so that anyone new to this thread, like me, could see some of the info right away? Just a thought.

Well I've followed the thread for some time. There aren't many issues to really report. I'll recap as best I can remember.

- IN76 fans loud when ceiling mounted. The latest firmware addresses it.

- IN76 firmware upgrade process can be problematic. If you have issues read the threads for pointers.

- IN72 not working with various scalers. Solution was in adjusting the refresh rate of the scaler.

- IN76 flickering in normal (low power) mode. Run the unit in high power mode for a few hours to condition the bulb.

Those are the only things I can think of at the moment. Questions on the offset come up often and are usually answered by a poster or a trip to the Infocus website.

Thanks jeahrens, I assume when you are talking about the offset, you are talking about the offset between the center of the lens and the top (or bottom depending on mounting) of the screen?

Im getting the IN72 soon,any advice? I plant to match it with the Bravo D1 DVD player and the 106" Graywolf hgih gain scree.

Thanks jeahrens, I assume when you are talking about the offset, you are talking about the offset between the center of the lens and the top (or bottom depending on mounting) of the screen?

Correct. Not really an issue with the projectors, but one that comes up frequently.

Im getting the IN72 soon,any advice? I plant to match it with the Bravo D1 DVD player and the 106" Graywolf hgih gain scree.Order your DVI-M1DA cable from Monoprice!

How come I need that? Cant I just use a DVI cable?

Thanks for the input!

You could also use the HDMI input and an HDMI cable. Then get an adapter that takes the DVI output of the player and converts it to HDMI. They aren't that expensive if you look around. Maybe Monoprice.com??

The DVI input is actually an M1 on the Infocus' that combines DVI and USB signals into one connection. If you use the M1 connection you need to buy a DVI to M1 adapter, and use a DVI cable from your player.

Dan

How come I need that? Cant I just use a DVI cable?The IN72 (like the other IN7x units) has two digital inputs: an HDMI port and an M1-DA port. The Bravo D1 uses a standard DVI port.

So, you need either a DVI-HDMI cable or a DVI-M1DA cable.

I recommend using the M1-DA port because it is more physically secure; HDMI plugs are crappy and tend to fall out, with no means of securing them.

If you intend to ceiling mount the projector, you will likely need a 25-35ft cable. Monoprice tends to be only about a buck a foot.

Then get an adapter that takes the DVI output of the player and converts it to HDMI. [...] If you use the M1 connection you need to buy a DVI to M1 adapter, and use a DVI cable from your player.There is no need to buy any "adapters"!!

Just buy the correct cable to start with!

Either a DVI-HDMI cable (http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10231&style=) or a DVI-M1DA cable (http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10238&style=) will do.

Alright cool thanks. I thougth I read that it has a DVI input,but I will get the m1da cable thanks a lot!

Anyone use the IN76 with a 110 inch screen (or larger) and sit as close as 10 feet? The review on projectorreviews of the IN76 said that you can sit as close as 9 feet without seeing SDE (pixels) that much -- other than in credits. Is that true?

I want to know if I can have a 110 inch 1:78 screen and sit (with my eyes) at about 10.5 feet -- without seeing all pixels all the time.

The review says you can -- but I need to hear from actual owners about this.

I don't think this is true with the correct screen. All too often people use a diffusing screen to make the image more film-like. They totally forget about HDTV and crisp HD-DVD sources.

I have better than 20-15 vision and I created my own non-diffusing screen. I can see pixel definition at 13 feet given a 58"x103" (118" diagonal).

If you buy a diffusing screen (like more are today) you may not see pixel perfect at 13'.

k

How come I need that? Cant I just use a DVI cable?

Thanks for the input!

If you have one of the HDMI switchers from monoprice (works real well), then you would obviously need a HDMI-DVI adapter or M1-HDMI (I think they have this too).

Just throwing this out there because I agree the DVI is better secure to the PJ but then you can start using many HDMI or DVI (with adapter) sources with the PJ also without using the PJ HDMI. I plan to do this when I get a IN7*

My IN72 is on it's way. I got it for a cool price of $700 appr. after rebates. I am thrilled since I am a newbie to projectors. In fact, this is going to be my first projector ever.

Anyways, I had a few questions for people here so that I can be ready when the projector arrives. I apologize if these questions have been answered before but I was unable to find anwers to these in a general search across this thread.

If I make a nice 92" screen, how far would I have to sit to comfortably watch the DVD's? It looks like for a 92" screen, the throw distance is going to be from 11.5' to 12.5'. Will I be able to sit at around 10' and be comfortable? Also, how high should be projector be from the top of the screen? And how is this number(height) even calculated?

I am planning to use a blackout cloth for my screen. I am guessing that the Matte finish side is the one to use. I heard somewhere that this side has a gain of 1.3 or so. Any recommendations on this?

And how are firmware updates done? Do I have to hook this projector up to a computer? Does this mean I need a VGA to DVI cable with a DVI/M1 adapter?

Thank you for all the answers. I will post the results of my setup after I am done with my installation. My projector should arrive in a week or so. :)

I have another question about the screen offset of this projector. I apologize if this has been discussed already. I searched and could not find an answer to my particular question.

Basically, I downloaded the spreadsheet that Bob posted that calculates the "Minimum distance from ceiling to screen" using the Universal ceiling mount (which I purchased).

For a 106" diag screen, my minimum distance is 13.69 inches. Now, I can get my screen to that height with no problems. My question, however, is if I want the projected image to be lower (say 20" from the ceiling) Is there an offset adjustment to make it lower? Or would I have to lower the entire projector by 6" ?

Thanks in advance!

Lower your projector.

Lower your projector.

Thanks, I just spent some time calculating it all.

Screen Height = 52" x .16 offset = 8.32

8.32 + 5.6" (universal ceiling mount distance from ceiling to center of lens) = 13.92

13.92 + .75" (thickness of board that the universal mount is, uhm, mounted too)

= 14.67" distance from ceiling to top of viewable screen surface. Which is very close (perhaps a little higher than my LP530 on a 4:3) screen, but good to know I won't have to buy an extension arm.

Are my calculations correct then?

I haven't done the math but the logic seems sound. But make sure you mount the projector first! ;)

I noticed on some HD DVD movies that the picture does not fill the screen at the top or bottom. This is not letter box but looks like its falling short.

My OTA HD signal fills the screen and so does the pre-views before the movie starts.

Last night I was watching Happy Gilmore on HD-DVD.

Has this been discussed?

I noticed on some HD DVD movies that the picture does not fill the screen at the top or bottom. This is not letter box but looks like its falling short.

My OTA HD signal fills the screen and so does the pre-views before the movie starts.

Last night I was watching Happy Gilmore on HD-DVD.

Has this been discussed?
The projector and screen is 16:9, which translates to 1.78:1. This is not an aspect ratio used for movies. "Happy Gilmore", like many films, has an aspect ratio of 1.85:1. If you do the math you'll see that it means that you're going to have small black bars at the top, bottom, or both - depending on the transfer.

In some cases 1.85:1 films are cropped to fill the full 16:9 panel, but often not.

OTA HD has a native AR of 16:9, so that's why it fills your screen completely.

:)

I have another question about the screen offset of this projector. I apologize if this has been discussed already. I searched and could not find an answer to my particular question.

Basically, I downloaded the spreadsheet that Bob posted that calculates the "Minimum distance from ceiling to screen" using the Universal ceiling mount (which I purchased).

For a 106" diag screen, my minimum distance is 13.69 inches. Now, I can get my screen to that height with no problems. My question, however, is if I want the projected image to be lower (say 20" from the ceiling) Is there an offset adjustment to make it lower? Or would I have to lower the entire projector by 6" ?

Thanks in advance!

Can you please provide the link to the spreadsheet? Thank you.

I noticed on some HD DVD movies that the picture does not fill the screen at the top or bottom. This is not letter box but looks like its falling short.

My OTA HD signal fills the screen and so does the pre-views before the movie starts.

Last night I was watching Happy Gilmore on HD-DVD.

Has this been discussed?

HDTV was a compromise between SDTV and movie screen shapes - to minimize the black bars with both sources. You would need a screen and lens matched to the shape of the movie to eliminate them - see the Constant Height forum.

Can you please provide the link to the spreadsheet? Thank you.
Screen Calculator (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=49744)

Screen Height = 52" x .16 offset = 8.32Note that the offset of the IN76 is actually 0.1559 which is almost a quarter-inch difference in your calculated result.

Note that the offset of the IN76 is actually 0.1559 which is almost a quarter-inch difference in your calculated result.
And the spreadsheet uses this value.

Thanks, I just spent some time calculating it all.

Screen Height = 52" x .16 offset = 8.32

8.32 + 5.6" (universal ceiling mount distance from ceiling to center of lens) = 13.92

13.92 + .75" (thickness of board that the universal mount is, uhm, mounted too)

= 14.67" distance from ceiling to top of viewable screen surface. Which is very close (perhaps a little higher than my LP530 on a 4:3) screen, but good to know I won't have to buy an extension arm.

Are my calculations correct then?

If your room allows you to do it, with appx. 1/4" of tilt down on the projector, move the projector forward 1/2" and tilt the screen out from the bottom just about 2''. The geometry will stay the same and you don't have to lower the projector.

If you don't mind parting with your IN72/74/76 for 10 days, you may just be able to get a free $200 Premier mount:

http://www.premiermounts.com/productPartBrowse.asp?ProductID=5170

Screen Calculator (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=49744)

Thank you. The spreadsheet is definitely very helpful.

Screen Calculator (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=49744)

That spreadsheet doesn't agree with the one on ProjectorCentral for the IN76. For a 80" wide screen, the spreadsheet gives a throw range of 11.7' to 14.1'. Projectorcentrals calculator gives 10.2' to 12.9' feet. What gives? I would love for the spreadsheet to be correct as I need a 14' throw.

Edit: Nevermind. I screwed up :(

I screwed upWell, whether you screwed up or not, think about this a minute:

Which spreadsheet should you trust?? The one provided by Bob Williams, the designer of the projector; or A spreadsheet created by a reseller group??!!Duh!?

Is there any 'easy' way to clean a dust blob in the IN76 or will I have to send my week old machine back?

I had my Panny AE700 in the same position for 2 years and not a single dust problem.

Don

If you don't mind parting with your IN72/74/76 for 10 days, you may just be able to get a free $200 Premier mount:

http://www.premiermounts.com/productPartBrowse.asp?ProductID=5170


They are referring to the custom plate solution - their universal mount works just fine. Maybe Infocus is holding back the CAD data since they sell their own custom mount? Strange. Expecially considering the CAD data is on the freely downloadable install spreadsheet. Having a 'contest' that says first one to send the projector gets a free mount does not bespeak much for their engineering dept. I think this is just stock boiler plate meaning nobody entered the projector in their database yet.

I don't recommend AVSers buy the custom plate anyways - they tend to upgrade projectors and need the universal mount.

Is there any 'easy' way to clean a dust blob in the IN76 or will I have to send my week old machine back?


My first IN76 had one out of the box. Had to send it back. The good news is that InFocus turned it around within hours of receiving my defective unit. The whole process from shipping to getting it back took me 4 days.

They are referring to the custom plate solution - their universal mount works just fine. Maybe Infocus is holding back the CAD data since they sell their own custom mount? Strange. Expecially considering the CAD data is on the freely downloadable install spreadsheet. Having a 'contest' that says first one to send the projector gets a free mount does not bespeak much for their engineering dept. I think this is just stock boiler plate meaning nobody entered the projector in their database yet.

I don't recommend AVSers buy the custom plate anyways - they tend to upgrade projectors and need the universal mount.
Yep, it could very well be just a standard webpage that gets displayed when a custom mount is not available. They may even have the data already and just not fabricated the plates yet. Even still, if someone wants a high quality mount for free it's worth exploring the possibility. :)

You're definitely right about universal mounts though. I wish I had gotten one when I bought my 4805. It would have saved me some money when I upgraded to the IN76...

I just hooked up my shiny new IN76. Everything is wonderful except there is a light splodge about six inches below the screen area (ie. below the actual DMD projection area) that shows up only when the picture is dark (most obvoius on a black screen).

I assume this is a dust blob.

Do I really have the ship the machine to IF to have this fixed? I don't want to part with it so soon.

DUST BLOBS IN THE IN7* series?????

I thought these had sealed optics and dust blobs were a thing of the past! I hate the possibility of dust blobs and was one of the reason I was considering an IN7* for its sealed optics to prevent against it.

If your room allows you to do it, with appx. 1/4" of tilt down on the projector, move the projector forward 1/2" and tilt the screen out from the bottom just about 2''. The geometry will stay the same and you don't have to lower the projector.

O.K., I have a question for you guys. I am seriously considering replacing my Sony 10HT projector with an IN76 and this whole thing about having an offset from the center of the lens to the top of the screen (ceiling mount) has thrown me. My screen is a 100" diagonal and my current projector is mounted a little over 11 feet out. I am not about to rip apart my screen wall and move the screen down, since it is 7.5" down from the ceiling. If I mount my IN76 to my ceiling and tilt it up, and then use the keystone correction, doesn't that negate the image offset? I know the keystone correction is a digital thing and shouldn't be used if it isn't needed, but this would be the only way I could use this projector.

Also, I downloaded the screen calculator spreadsheet at work the other day and it was fine, now when I try to open it, it says the folder is corrupt and won't open the zip file.

Opus33, I haven't been following this thread very closely but I seem to remember that there are more mirrors in the IN76 than needed for the 16 X 9 ratio and that light spill is probably normal for this machine. It requires some form of masking outside the 16 X 9 area.

With the Infocus IN76, a 7' 8" drop ceiling, and a 110 inch screen (8 feet wide), am I right that the highest I can get the screen bottom off the floor is only 24 inches?

I used the caluclator provided here, but I'm not sure if there are other mounts that can get the bottom of the screen higher.

Cesarr:

With a drop ceiling your mount options are a bit more flexible. I have a very low ceiling in my basement HT (less than 7 ft) and so I attached the mount to a joist above the level of the ceiling and then lower the projector to just below the ceiling. Then cut the appropriate hole in the tile and you are all set.

Cesarr:

With a drop ceiling your mount options are a bit more flexible. I have a very low ceiling in my basement HT (less than 7 ft) and so I attached the mount to a joist above the level of the ceiling and then lower the projector to just below the ceiling. Then cut the appropriate hole in the tile and you are all set.

But how much does that buy me -- another 3 inches? What is the absolute highest screen bottom I can get with a IN76 and a 110 inch diagonal (8 foot wide) screen?

caesar1, maybe my question above will be able to help you as well when we get an answer.