lol martin. :D

Martin

For me it was EverCrack (AKA EverQuest). Never played an online game since then. Now i just dissapear into the new FinalFantasy whenever it comes out.

A video game that forces you to actually get up and move ones arms around has no chance with me!

Too much guys!

My IN72 sitting still waiting for me to figure out the mounting technicalities. I finally found my paperwork and the model number of my Premier mount is PBC 1.5. I bought a 1/4 inch piece of plexiglass and will screw the detachable part of the mount to the plexiglass and then screw the plexi to the IN72. Screw size was tricky (9/64ths), the length may need to be cut, I have to use flat head screws and find a countersink drill bit for 9/64 size holes. In theory, I'll only add 1/4 to 1/2 inch to my previous mount length. Still wish I had a template for the 74's screws. Just to be sure, the screw holes for the mount are not the ones used for the little stand that comes with it, it's the other 3 srcew holes, right? If I actually get it all together I'll have to re-position the ceiling mount to center the lens... uggh... can't wait to see the new baby in action though.

For me it was Frogger and Space Invaders. Good old Atari.

For me it was Frogger and Space Invaders. Good old Atari.

Ahh....those were the days!

Too much guys!

My IN72 sitting still waiting for me to figure out the mounting technicalities. I finally found my paperwork and the model number of my Premier mount is PBC 1.5. I bought a 1/4 inch piece of plexiglass and will screw the detachable part of the mount to the plexiglass and then screw the plexi to the IN72. Screw size was tricky (9/64ths), the length may need to be cut, I have to use flat head screws and find a countersink drill bit for 9/64 size holes. In theory, I'll only add 1/4 to 1/2 inch to my previous mount length. Still wish I had a template for the 74's screws. Just to be sure, the screw holes for the mount are not the ones used for the little stand that comes with it, it's the other 3 srcew holes, right? If I actually get it all together I'll have to re-position the ceiling mount to center the lens... uggh... can't wait to see the new baby in action though.


Here's a pic of the 3 holes for ceiling mount. Do Not use the 3 inner holes that hold the base mount.

Thanks sgibson and Cavu for your helpful posts and messages. Thanks Hugh2, the suggestion to actually screw one screw into a paper template before marking the next holes is simply brilliant. I think I'll do a variation of that by drilling one hole in the acrylic sheet, screwing in one screw, then mark the next, drill and then repeat. This way I might avoid my usual method of drilling incorrectly by 1/8th of an inch and then having to redo it. I have to find a drill bit that works for acrylic. I wouldn't want it to crack or splinter. At the store I got the acrylic sheet cut, they had designated drill bits for sale, but I didn't know my screw size then. It's a long distance to the shop, so I'll try one of the nearer hardware stores.
Anyone here have experience drilling through an acrylic sheet?

I have a question about the IN72's 6 Month Lamp Warranty;

If it goes under 3,000 hours will it be replaced?

3000 hours is the ANSI average life rating - it is not the lamp warranty. I think the lamp warranty limit is exceeding 500 hours or six months whichever comes first - failures will be replaced within that. That six months includes shelf life of not using it.

3000 hours is the ANSI average life rating - it is not the lamp warranty. I think the lamp warranty limit is exceeding 500 hours or six months whichever comes first - failures will be replaced within that. That six months includes shelf life of not using it.
What is the likely hood, if the projector is treated perfectly, that it will last 3000 hours?

Thanks sgibson and Cavu for your helpful posts and messages. Thanks Hugh2, the suggestion to actually screw one screw into a paper template before marking the next holes is simply brilliant. I think I'll do a variation of that by drilling one hole in the acrylic sheet, screwing in one screw, then mark the next, drill and then repeat. This way I might avoid my usual method of drilling incorrectly by 1/8th of an inch and then having to redo it. I have to find a drill bit that works for acrylic. I wouldn't want it to crack or splinter. At the store I got the acrylic sheet cut, they had designated drill bits for sale, but I didn't know my screw size then. It's a long distance to the shop, so I'll try one of the nearer hardware stores.
Anyone here have experience drilling through an acrylic sheet?

I just taped a piece of paper on the bottom of the projector then used a pen to poke a hole into the screw holes. Then you can tape this template onto the plexiglass or wood to make your holes. As for the drill bit, I can't help you there as I used wood.

Good luck.

Forgive my ignorance, but my X1 isn't hooked up to watch TV...just movies. I am upgrading to the IN72 and would like to use it for limited TV (sports) as well. Do I connect the HD digital cable box to the projector directly or do I need to use a VCR as well (I have one, but it's 7-ish years old). I'd like the best picture quality possible. Thanks!

How can you tell when your bulb is dimming? I have run my unit 388 hours and it appears darker than it did...can't say how much, or when it happened, but it does seem to have happened. I ran the Avia test disc and brightness setting should be where it is set. If the projector had noticeably dimmed, would I need to up the brightness for compensation?

Hard to say Heboil, it could be the natural, slow dimming or something else. I remember the same thing happened with my InFocus 4805 and after a few weeks more passed I didn't notice it being dark anymore. I either adjusted to it or re calibrated correctly, I can't remember, it's been so long.

I haven't set up my IN72 yet, so I can only be of so much help.

A video game that forces you to actually get up and move ones arms around has no chance with me!
Me too. Have you all heard about the lawsuits already coming in against Nintendo from people that have hurt themselves playing? Nothing like "Virtual Tennis Elbow". ;)

[/QUOTE]Here's a pic of the 3 holes for ceiling mount. Do Not use the 3 inner holes that hold the base mount.[QUOTE]

why not use the three inner holes when mounting. will it hurt the PJ?

For me the holes for the base mount would be in the way of my ceiling mount, so I have to use the outer holes. Don't see why the inner holes would necessarily cause problems for ceiling mounting, but I think the outer holes would make leveling and moving the projector during set up a bit easier.

thanks Martin. i already mounted to the inner holes because it was easier to modify my old 4805 mount that way. but i did notice leveling and setup was probably harder due to the unbalanced position of the inner holes.

i already mounted to the inner holes because it was easier to modify my old 4805 mount that way.There is a real danger that the stress on the case will cause it to crack. InFocus was quite insistent that those holes not be used.

Good man, Cavu, better safe than sorry, or at least forewarned that it's risky ;)

My IN76 that was running fine with 1100 hours on it died this weekend. No LED, nada. Looks like a fuse problem. Of course I had just updated to the v2.6 firmware. That went fine and the pj was running normally. Then I did something stupid - put it into hight lamp mode. Lasted about an hour and then went black.

Called IF this morning to get RMA and check which fuse I have . He (India accent) tells me the IN76 has the 2a fuse - only the IN72 might have the 1a. That's doesn't really jive with what I'm reading here. I may wait for the RMA but if I start to get impatient (like in the next hour or so) I'll see if I can contact one of the managers that have been mentioned in this thread.

Whatever happens, I'm pretty sure this is my last IF pj. I've been a IF fan, having the 4805 before the IN76, but if the combination of v2.6/hight lamp is a known issue and they haven't bothered to address it with at least a web site warning, them I'm done.

Mike

Originally Posted by cavu
There is a real danger that the stress on the case will cause it to crack. InFocus was quite insistent that those holes not be used.

thanks cavu, i'll fix it right away. how come there is nothing in the manual about this? it seems it would be important to let us know, or at least for the idiots like me.

thanx again

My IN76 that was running fine with 1100 hours on it died this weekend. No LED, nada. Looks like a fuse problem. Of course I had just updated to the v2.6 firmware. That went fine and the pj was running normally. Then I did something stupid - put it into hight lamp mode. Lasted about an hour and then went black.

Called IF this morning to get RMA and check which fuse I have . He (India accent) tells me the IN76 has the 2a fuse - only the IN72 might have the 1a. That's doesn't really jive with what I'm reading here. I may wait for the RMA but if I start to get impatient (like in the next hour or so) I'll see if I can contact one of the managers that have been mentioned in this thread.

Whatever happens, I'm pretty sure this is my last IF pj. I've been a IF fan, having the 4805 before the IN76, but if the combination of v2.6/hight lamp is a known issue and they haven't bothered to address it with at least a web site warning, them I'm done.

Mike

mike, same here with my in72. i should have known better, but i upgraded to the latest firmware last week. everything was fine, but then friday night, i popped it into high lamp mode while watching a hd-dvd. everything was cool until saturday morning, i was making breakfast, came out into the living room and nothing. no lights, no nothing. i had emailed kras asking his opinion prior to the upgrade to see if he thought there was possibly a correlation between the fuse issue and the newer firmware but he didn't seem to think there could be any way it could be related. based on that, i went for the upgrade, but now i'm regretting it. it still is probably a longshot that the two are related, but it is pretty ironic to say the least. i don't hold any ill will on infocus (yet) as my in72 and in76 have been awesome and there's nothing out there i'd rather own at the moment, but it is a little frustrating. i'm just glad it happened under warranty. now i'm concerned about what i should do with my in76. should i upgrade and see if i can make it happen? or should i just leave it. really the only reason i'd upgrade is to have the full 16:9 splashscreen and that's far from a good reason.

can people who have sent in there INXX for fuse related issue please comment on how long it's taken to get their unit fixed/replaced? did they repair or replace? what happens to their warranty? did they replace the lamp? please advise-

i called in this morning already and got things rolling. i'm supposed to have an email by tomorrow morning. if i don't, i'll call and escelate. any tips?

/edit

it's my theory that with the new fan control on the newer firmware on high lamp mode that little 1 amp fuse is just getting to dang hot and blowing. of course, i'm no engineer, that's just a hunch. mine happened while running in high lamp mode after about an hour.

thanks cavu, i'll fix it right away. how come there is nothing in the manual about this? it seems it would be important to let us know, or at least for the idiots like me.

thanx again


The info is on pg.34 of the Infocus CD PDF Manual.

Does the IN72 display the HD content as good as the 4805 does? The reviewer at that website AVSers like to disagree says HD looks only as good as SD on the IN72. Say it ain't so!

Guys, I'm ready to order the IN72 right now but am on the fence whether or not to purchase directly from Infocus (to obtain the free, promotional, 92" screen) or from another authorized vendor for cheaper (projector only). My question is...how good is the screen Infocus sends out? I currently run a ~100" dia. DIY and I'm fairly happy with it, but if this screen is a good idea I'll go for it. BTW, I also asked Jason here at AVS for the IN72 but they don't stock it and I'd like to have it by this weekend. Thanks for any help!

For me the holes for the base mount would be in the way of my ceiling mount, so I have to use the outer holes. Don't see why the inner holes would necessarily cause problems for ceiling mounting, but I think the outer holes would make leveling and moving the projector during set up a bit easier.

Martin,

I had to dismantle my projector and I use that opportunity to take a few pictures. This is the plate I build (the aluminum plate is coming from home depot, it is a square plate used by plaster). Next step; clean up and spray paint with a black mat color.

Martin,

I had to dismantle my projector and I use that opportunity to take a few pictures. This is the plate I build (the aluminum plate is coming from home depot, it is a square plate used by plaster). Next step; clean up and spray paint with a black mat color.

This is what I mean by plaster square plate. I remove the handle and cut it to shape.

Thanks Tolstoi. Well... I did finally manage to create a template and mount the IN72 using a 1/4" black acrylic plate as an interface between the mount I was using for my 4805 and the In72. After carefully trying to get the new mount centered, it ended up about 1/4+" off. I'm getting a slight trapezoid shape also, with the top being slightly smaller than the bottom. I may have to redrill the ceiling holes if I want it to be exact (uggh) but I'd like to fix the trapezoid picture as well. Do I raise the pj, level it front to back? I forget. I was rushed today and after making the picture as small as possible, proceeded to walk the pj back until it filled the screen, I then put the pj about an inch or two closer to alllow for adjustments. Should I have moved the pj forward in position until the 16 X 9 picture was well inside the screen, mounted it there, and then used the projector's zoom to make the picture fit perfectly ?

On a different note, my first impression is that the IN72 isn't quite as sharp as the 4805 was. I keep wishing there was an in between setting from default to the first "sharpness" adjustment. That just looks like crappy enhancement. The black level helps to create a bit more of a filmlike feeling, but to me the things in background, (objects, faces) seem slightly less defined. It's as if I'm aware of the low resolution, wheras the 4805 never made me feel I was missing anything. It's been a long day, so perhaps I'll feel differently after I calibrate. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks Tolstoi. Well... I did finally manage to create a template and mount the IN72 using a 1/4" black acrylic plate as an interface between the mount I was using for my 4805 and the In72. After carefully trying to get the new mount centered, it ended up about 1/4+" off. I'm getting a slight trapezoid shape also, with the top being slightly smaller than the bottom. I may have to redrill the ceiling holes if I want it to be exact (uggh) but I'd like to fix the trapezoid picture as well. Do I raise the pj, level it front to back? I forget. I was rushed today and after making the picture as small as possible, proceeded to walk the pj back until it filled the screen, I then put the pj about an inch or two closer to alllow for adjustments. Should I have moved the pj forward in position until the 16 X 9 picture was well inside the screen, mounted it there, and then used the projector's zoom to make the picture fit perfectly ?

On a different note, my first impression is that the IN72 isn't quite as sharp as the 4805 was. I keep wishing there was an in between setting from default to the first "sharpness" adjustment. That just looks like crappy enhancement. The black level helps to create a bit more of a filmlike feeling, but to me the things in background, (objects, faces) seem slightly less defined. It's as if I'm aware of the low resolution, wheras the 4805 never made me feel I was missing anything. It's been a long day, so perhaps I'll feel differently after I calibrate. Any help is appreciated.

The IN72 lens positions vs center of the projector is different from the 4805. I had the same issue with the IN76. After hrs of measurement a came to the conclusion that my setup was 5/8 inches off. Instead or re-drilling the ceiling again, I use the interface plate that I build to shift the projector lens 5/8 closer to the center of the screen. It took me 3 times to get it at the right spot this is why my plate got quite a few holes in it...

The type trapezoid shape your are getting is caused by the projector being too high. You will need to lower the projector. What I do normally is to level the projector to a point where the trapezoid is gone (for this use a template with small squares and take measurement top and down). When the trapezoid is gone than you could measure the delta between the top of the projected image and the top of the screen.

Thanks Tolstoi, I'll try to adjust either today or tomorrow, depending on my work schedule. I did make adjustments for the 72's lens being in a differerent position by drilling all new holes in my ceiling and moving the projector over a bit. I can now see that I'm still off as far as the lens being centered to the screen, but what about distance? I put the 72 further back than my 4805 because I didn't know about finding the optimum distance with the fewest anomalies when I installed the 4805. So.. I tried plugging in the 72, setting the lens to minimum and then walking it back until it filled the screen, I then moved in an inch or two for leeway and put it up. Did I do something incorrectly?

Martin the sharpness calibration is different between SP4805 and IN72. My bet is you had left the SP4805 on standard instead the correct softer. On IN72 standard is correct. Get out your sharpness and resolution test patterns - the optics themselves are much improved. You were confusing sharper with aliasing and edge enhancement.

Your reinstall would have been so much easier if you had just bought the spyder legs for your mount plate!

Your reinstall would have been so much easier if you had just bought the spyder legs for your mount plate!

and it would have been a little lower too. ;)

hopefully my replacement in72 will be here thursday.

I bought one of those custom X1/4805 wall mounts someone here made and now I'm considering upgrading to the IN72. I know that the old mounting holes on the 4805 don't match up with the IN72 so I need a new wall mount. I can't do ceiling because it's concrete.

Anyone have any suggestions? TIA!

cant you just take a piece or lexsand ( 3/8 ) and drill new holes to fit the IN72 then drill holes to match your old mount used on the 4805 . Place three bolts in the new holes to match the old mount (tape the top of the bolt so they wont drop when you screw down the lexsand to the IN72.

then bolt up three taped bolts to your old mount holes .

Just a thougt.

Cheers

billymac

They swapped the whole projector instead of just the fuse? I guess that must be cheaper than actually paying a tech to repair it....

billymac

They swapped the whole projector instead of just the fuse? I guess that must be cheaper than actually paying a tech to repair it....

no, i rolled the dice on a refurb and paid a one time $99 charge plus a $600 cc auth that will be washed when they get my dead unit back.

the only thing that wasn't very clear was since i'm doing an advance exchange do i get to keep the balance of my original warranty or does it automatically default to 90 days. "Joe" from india assure me since it was an advance exchange that my warranty would be good for the remainder, but i'm suspect. at any rate it's only a couple months difference so we'll see. i'm really hopefully i dont get a dud and that it's indeed been inspected/tested. and obviously, hopefully i'll get a 2-amp fuse. that will be the first call i make once i get the new s/n. evidently any units mfg'd after august have the 2-amp fuse.

i can't wait to get it back, my 4805 doesn't sync over hdmi with my hd-a1 and i prefer the image and scaler of the in72.

I know you're right Kras !
For some reason (stubbornness?) I wanted to see if I could make it work. The black acrylic sheet IS both elegant and basically invisible and it really wasn't difficult to make the template and drill through it. I'd had some bad luck previously with drilling holes accurately and it just took me a little while to wrap my head around it, thanks to you guys.

Now for the matter at hand.. I can manage to lower the pj a little by unscrewing the tube that connects the mount plate on the pj to the ceiling plate a little and then tightening the little Allen screw to hold it in place. The question is, how much lower would the 72 be compared to the 4805? Their specs seemed awfully close, that's why I thought I could get away with it. If it's within say.. 1 1/2 " I should be OK, otherwise I'll just order the spyder legs.

As for centering the pj, it's my fault for rushing. I have a mark for the center of my screen on my ceiling and simply missed. It's messy, but not too tricky to drill new holes and move the ceiling plate over to the get the exact center. Crossing my fingers I can lower the pj just a bit and be good to go. :o

Kras, I forget, but I do think I had the 4805's sharpness set correctly with Video Essentials (even though I'm far from the master of that DVD) but I could be wrong and have gotten used to it set to standard. Once I get the pj in the right place I'll try to navigate that wonderfully ergonomic Video Essentials DVD yet once again, sigh..

not to rub it in, but if you had the spider legs, you could simply losen the legs and slide it over into the correct position and tighten her back up. ;)

hard to say on how far to lower. i bet cavu could do the math. ;) i'd try an inch if you've got it. can you adjust in place, or do you have to take down each time?

cavu, it is 27.67% of the image height!! (offset of the IN72)

The offset of the SP4805 is 27.8% of the image height!!

Cavu, can you figure the difference in lens height, all other things being equal?

I think it's 1.1"

------------------------------------------------------------

Ouch, Billymac, that does make me regret not having the spyder rig, but if it only takes moving the plate over a bit and lowering the pj a little, it'll be pretty cool. I'll try and post pictures when it's all done.

can you figure the difference in lens height, all other things being equal?What height is your screen?!

If it is 846" tall, you are correct. ;)

The actual difference will be so small, it doesn't matter!

Thanks cavu. What method do you and Kras use to determine the distance you mount the pj from the screen I thought that setting the zoom to minimum and then backing up to fill the screen was the way to go, but I'm wondering if mounting it further up and then zooming out isn't better.

I thought that setting the zoom to minimum and then backing up to fill the screen was the way to goThat's exactly what I do, but then I move it forward a couple of inches for fudge-factor. The zoom is then just off its stop in the final adjustment.

PS. I've been listening to your music. Its great!

cavu
PS. I've been listening to your music. Its great!

Wow, thanks cavu! I play a lot better than I mount projectors ;)


www.myspace.com/martinbutler (http://www.myspace.com/martinbutler)

martinbutlermusic.com (http://martinbutlermusic.com)

That's exactly what I do, but then I move it forward a couple of inches for fudge-factor. The zoom is then just off its stop in the final adjustment.

PS. I've been listening to your music. Its great!

It is really interesting!

My bet is you had left the SP4805 on standard instead the correct softer.

I had. Great to know I've watched the "enhanced" image all along... Hopefully I'll do it right with the next display.

The standard setting on the 4805 sure didn't go as far as one click up on the sharpness setting on the IN72. I really didn't notice any artifacts with the 4805 set to standard, but the IN72 with sharpness up one notch is horrible, downright ugly.

Well, I drilled four more holes and got dust all over my living room today, but the IN72 is now almost perfectly centered (I'm still about 3/16" off). I tried lowering the projector as far as my mount would safely allow and still see a bit of a trapezoid. I guess I need to lower it a bit more, damn! Still, it was worth the effort to move and adjust it because I'm in the "really damn close, I can live with this zone" instead of the "I can't stand to look at this one minute longer zone!

Thanks for all your help guys, it sure looks handsome up there. I feel that many of us contributed to the design choices made by InFocus by answering Bob Williams in detail when he asked what we'd like to see in the next gen InFocus pj line. We can all take a little pride in that and enjoy the IN72 even more. Bob Williams ought to be given a Biggest Bang for the Buck Award!

Martin the sharpness calibration is different between SP4805 and IN72. My bet is you had left the SP4805 on standard instead the correct softer. On IN72 standard is correct. Get out your sharpness and resolution test patterns - the optics themselves are much improved. You were confusing sharper with aliasing and edge enhancement.

Your reinstall would have been so much easier if you had just bought the spyder legs for your mount plate!
kras, when did you make this discovery? I'm pretty sure I've read every post in both of the 4805's official threads and I can't believe I somehow missed this discussion. My memory must be fading out much quicker than I thought it was. ;)

I run my HD cable through component and my DVD player through HDMI.
Here is a minor problem I am having.

With the cable box "off" and the DVD player loading a disc, the projecter defaults to component and I have to select HDMI as the source. Anyone know a way to "silence" the cable box signal so the pj doesn't try to pick it up first?

I run my HD cable through component and my DVD player through HDMI.
Here is a minor problem I am having.

With the cable box "off" and the DVD player loading a disc, the projecter defaults to component and I have to select HDMI as the source. Anyone know a way to "silence" the cable box signal so the pj doesn't try to pick it up first?

turn off auto-source in the menu. i think they kept that with the INXX series. if not, i'm not sure i understand your question. you'll have to change inputs on the projector. or you could buy a learning remote capable of macros. i have the harmony 890, it works awesome.

While I'm on hold to InFocus I thought I would shoot off a couple of questions. I have an IN76 which I really like. I reported a light leak on the left side of the silver lens frame and the black projector casing. I reported it by email and was immediately sent a second IN76 without any real discussion other than a description of the light leak. The second IN76 has the same light leak in the same location although a little pressure on the lens frame seems to lessen the leak.
Is this "just the way it is" on all the INxx models?
Any comments from anyone who has had this (minor) problem?
Did any of you guys have to return more than two projectors to get the light leak to go away? Thanks--

i'll take a look at mine tonight and let you know. does it hit the ceiling? ceiling mounted? are you using the correct mounting holes for the mount?

turn off auto-source in the menu. i think they kept that with the INXX series. if not, i'm not sure i understand your question. you'll have to change inputs on the projector. or you could buy a learning remote capable of macros. i have the harmony 890, it works awesome.

I'll check that. I recall something to that effect in the menu, but I do use that source. Maybe I can set or swictch default settings.

:) I have a Harmony comming from Santa. That fat man needs to speed up and get here early.

I have a little light spill on the ceiling, not as bad as the 4805, but noticeable. Is this normal?

General question, I still see a slight trapezoid. It's approx. 1/4- 1/2" smaller at the top. Doesn't this mean the pj's not level? Even if it's mounted a little high or low it should still be square, right? Also, I think I 'm about 1/8th to 1/4"off center, how will that affect the picture?

I noticed a quirk last night. When my DVD player's on while I'm watching TV and then I change from a standard def channel to high def, the signal re syncs to the DVD player instead of changing channels and then I have to scroll through the source button to component to get back to TV.

Hey, just noticed the IN72 specific thread. I'lll start posting there as well, but will continue here because of the valuable input from the 76 ers.

Unless you tilt your screen to compensate for improper offset - you will be a trapezoid. And if it is offcenter - then one side will be higher than the other as you rotated to hit the screen. I suppose you could rotate your screen to compensate....

Thanks Kras, most helpful. Tilting the screen a little might not be too difficult, I'll look closer tonight because I suspect the off centering is doing just as you said, one side's higher than the other. At least I know what needs doing and can choose my best time for tweaking, like after the holidays ;)

i'll take a look at mine tonight and let you know. does it hit the ceiling? ceiling mounted? are you using the correct mounting holes for the mount?

Desk mounted. Leak is in front on the left side of the lens and between the silver/gray lens frame and the black projector casing. It looks like a rubber grommet should be around the lens frame to match up with the projector housing and seal off any light. Of course, because of heat, it would have to be made of a heat resistant material. The leak is aimed at the screen. I can't see a spot on the screen but any light (not coming through the lens) added and aimed at the screen is probably not a good thing.

kras, when did you make this discovery? I'm pretty sure I've read every post in both of the 4805's official threads and I can't believe I somehow missed this discussion. My memory must be fading out much quicker than I thought it was. ;)

I missed it too!! Kras.. can you re-explain?

Assume 4805 is at defaults (original firmware) and I'm using the player software setting to calibrate it.

Thanks!!! -W

Thanks Kras, most helpful. Tilting the screen a little might not be too difficult, I'll look closer tonight because I suspect the off centering is doing just as you said, one side's higher than the other. At least I know what needs doing and can choose my best time for tweaking, like after the holidays ;)


Yes.. you DON'T wanna use digital keystone to fix a height issue. You lose pixels and screw up any 1-1 mapping you did. I tilted the top of my screen out from the wall 1" and I'm perfect.

Hint: Next time mount the PJ.. then mount the sreen to match the PJ's perfect "native shot".

-W

whats up all,

Nnyone know if abe's of maine an authorized infocus dealer, or have purchasing experience with them? The site says their products come with all manufacture warrantees and rebates.

Clams

If you are not using the 480i signal but have a HTPC software player - you will not have the sharpness control! However there was a SP4805 bug that if you adjusted it on component - the scaler change would be preserved onto DVI. Dunno if that was ever in the firmware update - but I do know it drove DaGamePimp nutz! :D

Use sharpness & resolution patterns on AVIA - you are looking for ringing or outlining on sharp edges, rolloff of high frequencies, and aliasing of detailed patterns. The IN72 and SP4805 have different scalers and the control behaves differently.

whats up all,

Nnyone know if abe's of maine an authorized infocus dealer, or have purchasing experience with them? The site says their products come with all manufacture warrantees and rebates.
Check out the InFocus Company web site.
Abes of Maine (abesofmaine.com) is second on the list of Unauthorized InFocus Dealers. Sorry--You might check with AVS Forum by calling their toll free number. They have been super helpful to me. Good luck.

Yup. Here's the list of unauthorized Infocus dealers: http://www.infocus.com/deauthorized/index.htm

ahh, thanks folks

I looked around the infocus site for a while but couldn't find the list. How can these dealers claim to have full warantee products?

Glad I didn't order yet, but also bummed, they had a sweet screen deal also.

I think i saw this mentioned somewhere, but I could not find it.
I just switched from component HD cable to DVI/M1 HD cable hookup.

Now I have two - signs. One black one in the upper left corner of the picture and one white one in the upper right corner of the screen.

Anyone know what that is and how to get rid of it?
Thanks

I am getting confused with these various cable options. I wonder if someone could help me out.

I currently have an X1 ceiling mounted and I want to replace it with an IN76. I wired the ceiling years ago with a 30' m1 cable that connects to a "Hawking" video selector box thats lets me choose between PC,XBox360, DVD Player & HD CableTV BOX.
I want to add a HD DVD player but I have read here that 720p output will only be displayed over HDMI.
My PC has a XFX video card that outputs HDMI but came with a dongle that converts HDMI to M1 - which I use in my setup.
Do I have to replace my M1 ceiling cable to go HDMI or can I just use a HDMI dongle on both ends - i.e DVD Player -> HDMI to M1 ->Video Selector -> M1 to HDMI -> Projector?
Any guidance would be appreciated...

I want to add a HD DVD player but I have read here that 720p output will only be displayed over HDMI.For all intents and purposes DVI and HDMI are identical with the exception that DVI does not carry audio and HDMI does (which is useless for a projector anyway!).Do I have to replace my M1 ceiling cable to go HDMINo.can I just use a HDMI dongle on both ends You only need an HDMI connector at the DVD player: DVD Player -> HDMI to M1 ->Video Selector. The rest is OK.

Check out the InFocus Company web site.
Abes of Maine (abesofmaine.com) is second on the list of Unauthorized InFocus Dealers. Sorry--You might check with AVS Forum by calling their toll free number. They have been super helpful to me. Good luck.

called avs, out of stock.

I'm getting tired of sites saying there offer "full US warantee"

Thanks cavu....
I didn't want to have to replace my cables - you made my day!

Current Setup-Dedicated HT room
Sharp XV S55u - Contrast 100:1, Lumens Unkn
120" 4:3 Screen Gain--Lost to antiquity (maybe 1.2)
PJ is mounted inside of closet 17'10" from screen
(see attached Photos)
1st row seating 11' from screen

My questions revolve around the 17'10" distance to screen as I would like to, if it is possible, mount the IN76 in the closet and still maintain the 96" screen width. If it can't be done--then I will mount the PJ outside of the closet. I am commited to the 96" width.

I have used the calculator provided in this thread and it gave a long throw distance of 15.52' for 96" width.

It further showed that at ~17.8' the screen width would need to be 110". This would mean a new screen(out of budget & I want to use the old one) and the unmovable seating would be inside the min. view zone.

So, my 1st question(sorry if too much preface info): Would I be able to use the zoom to match the 96" screen width if PJ is mounted in the closet? And if possible, what happens to PQ?

I learned the relationship betw. contrast & brightness with the zoom, but I don't understand how the diferent foot-lamberts numbers appear to the eye. Is there a significant difference between say, 13, 17 & 22 fl?

TIA
kempo

Does the IN72 work best with a 1.0 gain matte white screen? I have a 92" 1.8 gain Graywolf II and I was wondering if this is better?

Ok, not to be beating a dead horse here, but am still compiling my list of my widescreen DVD's that display widescreen INSIDE a 4:3 window.

The Fabulous Baker Boys
Overboard
Just Write
Rounders (2.35:1)
No Way Out
Emma
When a Man Loves a Woman
The Slums of Beverly Hills
Farewell My Concubine

Someone suggested hitting the zoom on the D1, which seemed to work until I watched Farewell My Concubine last night. Since this movie has subtitles, when I zoomed in, although the top and both left and right side of the image was fine, the bottom 1/4 was chopped off making the subtitles invisible. I never noticed that using the zoom had been eliminating some of the picture, and who knows what else...

I had been going into the D1's setup and selecting 4:3 instead of 16:9 for these DVD's that were giving me this problem and that seemed to give me the proper aspect ratio, with the exception of Rounders with 2.35:1 aspect, believe it or not. I was always worried though that I had lost my 1:1 pixel mapping when doing this so was looking for answers as to why this was happening on some widescreen non-anamorphic DVD's and not others.

I wish someone with more knowledge would chime in here and settle this once and for all. I mean, it isn't like Farewell My Concubine is some obscure DVD release or something. It is obvious that I am going to be running into this problem again in the future.

Thanks fellas,
George -bub

Does the IN72 work best with a 1.0 gain matte white screen? I have a 92" 1.8 gain Graywolf II and I was wondering if this is better?With a 1.0 gain 92" screen, the IN72 will produce 28.8fL - more than TWICE the desired target of 12fL (SMPTE) brightness! This could be well and easily managed with a $25 ND2 filter.

With a 1.8 gain 92" screen, the IN72 produces 51.8fL of brightness!! Might be good for a sports bar but in a home theatre you should be wearing sunglasses!

I forget, what's the gain on the DaLite HCCV, .95 or 1.2?

Some place just had the IN72 for $404 shipped after MIR.

"Woot" a great deal!

SMPTE facts: 12ftl MINIMUM Standard <10 considered unacceptable!!! IMHO you can get away with 8ftl but only in perfect conditions, which doesn't exist in commercial theaters. You need to be more than 25-30ftl before most people find the brightness objectionable. 12ftl is NOT the target you should be aiming for with a new bulb, it is the target to be aiming for when the bulb's life is near its end.

Theory: IN72 at 900 ANSI lumens on a 92" 1.0 gain screen would = 36ftl.

Reality: IN72 is less than 500 lumens when in low power mode. 500 lumens on a 92" 1.0 gain screen = 20ftl with brand new bulb. As bulb ages and loses brightness easily less than 300 lumens, which = 12ftl.

A 92" 1.0 screen is probably the largest screen I would consider for the IN72 if you have very good room conditions (ie dark walls, ceiling, floor, etc.) and total light control. If you don't have these conditions your graywolf is a better choice and possibly use an ND filter as CAVU suggested while the bulb is new if you find it too bright.

Hope this helps.

Bob

SMPTE facts: 12ftl MINIMUM Standard <10 considered unacceptable! :rolleyes:

SMPTE specifies 16ftL nominal with no film in the projector - which most people consider to be 12ftL when showing a white film.

Accordingly, Digital Cinema uses 12ftL for reference white.

IN72 is less than 500 lumens when in low power mode.The IN72 is 900 Lumens in high power and 720 Lumens in low power w/new lamp.

Check out the 'Monkey Man' mount here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=232749

I have the SMPTE spec in front of me. Yes 12ftl is with film in the projector and that is why digital cinema matches it. There is no equivalent for the 16ftl spec with NO film in the projector for digital cinema. However, it is a minumum standard for theaters to meet and one shouldn't look to meet this standard with a brand new PJ as they will be disappointed as the bulb ages. If they find it too bright you can always use a ND filter as you suggested and remove it as the bulb ages.

Anyway, 720 lumens is not accurate for the IN72. The Infocus specs is not accurate. I measure projectors quite frequently but since you doubt my measurements here are a couple others.

Projector Central - 478 low power
Projector Reviews - 359 low power with gamma set to film and just over 400 in high power with gamma set to film
Also, look at the IN76 reviews and you'll find it barely gets 500 lumens in low power modes and that is rated at 800 in low power.

There are only two specifications I trust from a manufacturer, size and weight.:-)

Bob

BobL,

Did you personally measure the IN72? Projector Central has long been discredited around here and Projector Reviews I'm not sure of.

The 4805 was 600 in low power, and I'm pretty sure that IF would not lower the next generation to 500.

IF generally does a good job with its specs. I have not persoanally measured any of the INxx, so of course I could be wrong, but 500 lumens does not seem right. Kras should be able to set the record straight on this subject.

But you are exactly right in recommending 25-30ft/L.

I forget, what's the gain on the DaLite HCCV, .95 or 1.2?

Hi Martin,

The gain is actually 1.1. Hope this helps.

:rolleyes:

SMPTE specifies 16ftL nominal with no film in the projector - which most people consider to be 12ftL when showing a white film.

A white film? How about a Black film like "Last Holiday" or "Barbershop" ?

-W (I'm here all night folks)

BobL,

Did you personally measure the IN72? Projector Central has long been discredited around here and Projector Reviews I'm not sure of.

The 4805 was 600 in low power, and I'm pretty sure that IF would not lower the next generation to 500.

IF generally does a good job with its specs. I have not persoanally measured any of the INxx, so of course I could be wrong, but 500 lumens does not seem right. Kras should be able to set the record straight on this subject.

But you are exactly right in recommending 25-30ft/L.

Yes, I have measured the IN72 as well as many other projectors including the IN74, IN76 and hopefully and IN78 soon. Our company is deciding whether it is worth bringing in an IN78 with pricing dropping so quickly in this market. I do most of the evaluations on new products or products we are considering carrying as well as the calibrations for installs.

There can be a difference in measurement equipment, rooms, techniques and variance amongst the same model PJ due to bulbs and to a lesser extent unit to unit variance. I have found out of the box the IN72 to be in the 450 range and although measurement wise I don't find it much different than the 4805 maybe 10% or so brighter. The increased contrast does make it seem brighter in comparison. I also calibrate the projector before measuring and the IN72 is closer to D65 out of the box than the 4805.

As a general guideline I tell people to take the manufacturers lumen spec (for low power mode if available) and divide it in half and then do their calculations to account for calibration and some aging. It is not a perfect guideline by any means but it does get them closer to being realistic than the advertised specs.

Hope this helps

Bob

Ps. I do not always agree with projector centrals reviews and I might have different criteria in my evaluations at as well. Whether the numbers are accurate I don't know but hopefully their measurement techniques are consistent so you can use it as a basis for comparison with their other reviews. This holds true no matter who does the testing, unless you are comapring results with known reference labs. But, when you get a number of different reviewers all getting consistently different results than the models specs you have to wonder. :rolleyes:

The increased contrast does make it seem brighter in comparison. I also calibrate the projector before measuring and the IN72 is closer to D65 out of the box than the 4805.


That makes sense - didn't really think about it like that. Very informative posts btw.

BobL

PJC has consistently proven themselves inconsistent in their own reviews - projectors that are clearly brighter in side by side tests - and they have them all at average 400 lumen brightness. BenQ8700 and SP7205 were great examples of such inconsistent reviews. ProjectorReviews is doing a much better job - consistent reviewer - that lists the brightest mode for comparison.

The IN72 achieves marketed specs - but you have to account for lens throw - at either end there will be contrast/brightness differences - as well as lamp life because of exponential decay even 100 hours lamps will be significantly different. Figure in manufacturing tolerances - and I do not expect reviewers lumens to be comparable. Colorimeters vary a lot in measuring such - and good luck finding a calibrated lightmeter with a tight tolerance. So what is important - and what I find - is the percentage drops are consistent.

The way to eliminate your sensor and test methods from the equation - is to find the max brightness/contrast - and figure out what the marketed setting was - manufacturers do not fall short of the max - then your measures are relative to the max. colorimeters and light meters have poor absolute accuracy on lumens - but they have great relative accuracy. Only the percentage drops can be relied upon. So if you got 500 lumens calibrated- what was your max - what was your throw - what was your lamp life?

I get 926L with white peaking native color temp - but that had 2718:1 contrast - which clearly exceeds spec. So spec was taken without white peaking - as without it I get 1999:1 contrast and 681 lumens. 6500K only dropped to 671 lumens, and D65 was 642 lumens. So while these numbers are under 720 lumens for new lamp - they certainly are within manufacturing tolerances - which can be as wide as 20%. Had I used shorter throw - contrast would be down and brightness would be up.

And that marketing makes sense - because marketing does not want to admit the IN72 has better calibrated contrast than the IN76. The same thing happened with the SP4805 - it was underrated to keep the SP7205 specs better (which needs white peaking to hit contrast specs). But the reality is that the DVD projectors are not as bright since intended for smaller screen - so Infocus can tweak their contrast better than their HD projectors - they just don't want to admit it.

With all the projectors I have calibrated I have been able to consistently find the mode in which marketed brightness/contrast that meets or exceeds specs - or if less is within manufacturing tolerances or is reasonable considering lamp burn-in. Then from there you take your percentage drops - and it is a sample fact that the percentage drop from max modes to calibrated on Infocus is miniscule compared to other manufacturers.

I personally measured all the SP4805 I did to range from 600-850 lumens new - and 1600-2200:1 in contrast. So I don't dispute that another reviewer gets different results - and I don't really care - there are too many uncontrolled variables involved. What I want to know is what their percentage drops from spec modes are - as those will be consistent between reviewers.

"So I don't dispute that another reviewer gets different results - and I don't really care - there are too many uncontrolled variables involved. What I want to know is what their percentage drops from spec modes are - as those will be consistent between reviewers. "

I agree with you Kras as I stated there are many variables invlolved. I don't use PJC for my evaluations so their reviews are just entertainment as is most other reviewers:D No offense intended as I prefer to evaluate a display myself as I'm sure you do. Sometimes my finidngs are similar to other reviewers sometimes they are not.

I was just pointing out that there are many reviews about the Infocus products and a good majority show lumen measurements lower than the 20% manufacturing tolerance you state. Whether one believes a given reviewer is up to the person reading it. Many here don't have any type of equipment, training or experience to do their own measurements so they rely on these reviews.

For info I usually test both the short and long throw areas of the lens. I'm usually not as concerned about the lumens difference as I am the contrast ratio difference. But, when testing a product I usually use the longer throw. That way if someone else calculates the lumens it will still work if we use a shorter throw. With IF I find the differences not as big as other with less expensive PJs with lesser quality lenses and longer throw ranges like 2x have greater differences between long and short throws in both lumens and contrast.

I know you already know what I'm going state Kras but I'm stating here for many of the users that might not know. MOST PJs will be brighter the closer it is to the screen but will have better contrast the further it is from the screen. With a good lens and a short range like IF with only a 1.2x zoom the differences aren't as great as some other PJs with 2x lens of lesser quality. Some manufacturers prefer greater zoom ranges to be more flexible with installs. For the users and the manufacturers it is all about tradeoffs with PJs.

If I was a manufacturer I'd measure with the PJ closest to the screen and with the parameters best suited to getting the best lumen spec possible. I'm sure I can repeat these results if I tried but I don't. I choose to measure the PJ more like we would use it and turn off peak brightness and calibrate the PJ first. I usually take measurements and calibrate it when the PJ is new if I'm evaluating it and then I touch it up at 50 and 100 hours if it is a demo. Then maybe every 400-500 hours after the initial 100. If it is installed we do a quick calibration of just basic controls if the PJ is fairly good out of the box and come back after the initial 100 hours to calibrate it.

I'm not faulting IF for their specs as they are just trying to show their product as best as they can. But, not everyone sets up their PJ to maximize a lumen spec.

BTW, I'm fond of the IF products I think they are a VERY GOOD value for the money. They have good performance, decent lenses, very good support for dealers, and installer features I like to see ie. discrete codes, RS-232, 12V triggers, user presets, etc.

I'm not trying to get in any conflicts here. If your opinions differ so be it and I respect them. I was simply trying to help a user factor calibrated lumens, bulb aging, and screen type when using these various calculators to help make their decisions.

Hope this helps :)

Bob

Good stuff,

so if an in72 produces xxx lumens and xxxx contrast at closest zoom what % drop and gain should be expected at farthest zoom? Lets say 650 lumens and 2000 contrast at close range, if thats a good set of numbers.

I wonder why Infocus makes their projectors so bright. Sure there
are people who want 120''.

If they put a lower brightness lamp they dont need to mess with the
fan speed and it would be a lot quieter. They can add a threaded
outer rim to the lens so that people an use a filter initially when the
lamp is bright. They can also give the filter size. It is not difficult to
make a threaded outer rim for the lens.

anyway... Just ordered IN72 from Infocus. Should be here thursday.
For $599 I guess I can live with what ever shortcomings it has. so far
I have not heard any except noise. I can run a humidifier to hush it if
it starts bothering. I would mostly watch HD and sports in HD so now I
dont care much about bars. Even a Sharp 20" LCD TV costs $420. So
I thought it would be stupid to pass up a $599 projector.


Anyone has any idea what the filter size should be. I know I cant fit the
filter as I could on 4805. May be I would have to buy a larger filter and just mount it infront of the lens.


Could anyone suggest a good ND2 filter. My budget is $50-60.


oops! should I have posted this in the In72 specific thread? never mind

Mupi, InFocus' designs lean toward making bright projectors for a few reasons. First, target market. They want the average user to be able to watch sports events without blacking out the room. The vast majority of people watching these events prefer some room light. Second, after the bulb dims a bit, it's still reasonably bright, theoretically giving consumers a lot of hours before they need a new bulb. Brightness is good, poor black level, bad, so designers make their compromises and InFocus manages quite a good black level, all things considered. I think you'll love the IN72. Good luck with it.

if an in72 produces xxx lumens and xxxx contrast at closest zoom what % drop and gain should be expected at farthest zoom? Lets say 650 lumens and 2000 contrast at close range, if thats a good set of numbers.The lens only changes from F2.4 to F2.6 over the zoom range. Therefore, the brightness only drops ((2.4/2.6)squared=) 14.79% from 650L at full zoom (biggest image) to 554L at minimum zoom (smallest image).

Typically, the contrast ratio will drop about 10-17% to about 1660:1-1800:1 at full zoom as opposed to 2000:1 at minimum zoom.

sweet answer, thanks. Thats actualy an apreciable amount of lumens from max to no zoom. I guess about half the difference from low and hi lamp. So at no zoom with better contrast an lower lumens, blacks are definatly darker.

are


Anyone has any idea what the filter size should be. I know I cant fit the
filter as I could on 4805. May be I would have to buy a larger filter and just mount it infront of the lens.


Could anyone suggest a good ND2 filter. My budget is $50-60.


oops! should I have posted this in the In72 specific thread? never mind

you can't use the 62mm from the 4805? I'm going to need to find a new one also.

I was about to ask the same thing? How to filter an IN72??

-W

It may be possible if PJ is going to be table mounted like mine. You have to get a larger size filter and mount it in front of the lens. I am thinking about 77mm or so. I costs about 50. Regular Hoya. If it is Hoya HMC it is 56 or something.

Then you can just glue the filter (the rim) to a piece of wood and place it
infront of the lens. As long as the entire cone of the light is captured
it should be ok.

Not a very hi-tech method. I have not received my PJ yet. If I see it
I might get better ideas. If the lens is removable I could take the lens
to the photo shop and find out which filter is closest. You really do not
need threads. 4805 didnt have threads. I just pushed the 62mm filter
into the outer cover. May be the same thing can be done. couple of rounds of
plumber's tape will also do the job. I am going to have to get a filter
infront of the lens somehow. My image is not going to be 92''. It will be
some 75 only. So I cant use this light cannon without a filter. I dont care how
crude my method is. As long as it works who cares.

The front of the IN72 does not get hot like the SP4805.

Pop the filter from its ring and use common ordinary scotch tape. XMAS wrapping tape is nearly invisible.

I only discovered this when I broke the 72mm filter ring trying to juryrig it to stay in place when I discovered the filter threads of the SP7210 are not there - and neither are the soft circular plastic of the SP4805 that the lens threads would bite into.

ok but filter of what size :-) that has been the million dollar question

and is Hoya HMC better than regular Hoya. I read that the HMC mainly eliminates any reflections. The regular Hoya filter also has one antireflective coatings on either side. So I guess regular Hoya ND2 (.3) sould be fine? Could use the extra for S&H

I previously had a SP4805 and whenever there was a power interuption, the projector would come on once the power was restored.

This got to be a problem since I travel for a living.

Has anyone had a similar experience with their IN72/IN76?

I previously had a SP4805 and whenever there was a power interuption, the projector would come on once the power was restored.You only had to turn on the "Power Save" function. If it doesn't detect an input signal it shuts the PJ off after about 15 minutes.

Or, just turn off the power switch on the PJ when you leave on a trip.

I previously had a SP4805 and whenever there was a power interuption, the projector would come on once the power was restored.

i had the same thing happin .

I was blaming my romate for not turning of the PJ. :D

took me a while to put two and two together.

you can't use the 62mm from the 4805? I'm going to need to find a new one also.

Yes you can. I had saved the 62mm filter I bought for 4805 and I am using it on IN72. There is a groove or whatever that is pretty much 62mm. With the filter rim
you wont be able to just push it in like 4805. So I put a small piece of scotch tape on the rim and basically hung it from the top surface of the PJ. Works just fine.

It is hard to explain. I dont have a camera. Just look at the front and you will
see a groove kind of thing that would accomadate a 62mm filter. May be someone
thought about this and purposefully made that groove or whatever. I dont know
what to call it. Just see it you will know.

You could possibly remove the filter from the rim and use some kind of a gel like
glue and just place the filter in that groove. This is not a permanent glue. YOu
know how the credit card comes in the mail with a removable glue.

But I prefer the tape solution as it is so easy. I am glad I could use a filter
so that after some 1000 hrs I can remove it. Hopefully the bulb will last for
1000 hrs!

Another movie watched last night, another movie on the list. I really do not understand how this isn't getting any attention. Somebody surely can shed some light on why this is happening and who is at fault, IN72 or D1...

Happy holidays all,
George -bub

The Fabulous Baker Boys
Overboard
Just Write
Rounders (2.35:1)
No Way Out
Emma
When a Man Loves a Woman
The Slums of Beverly Hills
Farewell My Concubine
Englishman Who Went Up A Hill But Came Down A Mountain (2.35:1)

Ok, not to be beating a dead horse here, but am still compiling my list of my widescreen DVD's that display widescreen INSIDE a 4:3 window.

The Fabulous Baker Boys
Overboard
Just Write
Rounders (2.35:1)
No Way Out
Emma
When a Man Loves a Woman
The Slums of Beverly Hills
Farewell My Concubine

Someone suggested hitting the zoom on the D1, which seemed to work until I watched Farewell My Concubine last night. Since this movie has subtitles, when I zoomed in, although the top and both left and right side of the image was fine, the bottom 1/4 was chopped off making the subtitles invisible. I never noticed that using the zoom had been eliminating some of the picture, and who knows what else...

I had been going into the D1's setup and selecting 4:3 instead of 16:9 for these DVD's that were giving me this problem and that seemed to give me the proper aspect ratio, with the exception of Rounders with 2.35:1 aspect, believe it or not. I was always worried though that I had lost my 1:1 pixel mapping when doing this so was looking for answers as to why this was happening on some widescreen non-anamorphic DVD's and not others.

I wish someone with more knowledge would chime in here and settle this once and for all. I mean, it isn't like Farewell My Concubine is some obscure DVD release or something. It is obvious that I am going to be running into this problem again in the future.

Thanks fellas,
George -bub

Bub

Neither the D1 nor the IN72 is at fault - it is the DVD itself. And I'm pretty sure you lose your 1:1 when selecting 4:3.

BTW, you can add Backdraft to that list if you have not found out already.

Non-anamorphic DVDs will display thier AR inside a 4:3 window. Curious, but do they say "enhanced for 16x9 TVs"?

You only had to turn on the "Power Save" function. If it doesn't detect an input signal it shuts the PJ off after about 15 minutes.

Or, just turn off the power switch on the PJ when you leave on a trip.

Does it really? Unless I unplug the power cord there is always power to the unit.
i.e there is always that little light on the power button.
Guess this ones doesnt have the hard on/off button like SP4805.

Bub

Neither the D1 nor the IN72 is at fault - it is the DVD itself. And I'm pretty sure you lose your 1:1 when selecting 4:3.

BTW, you can add Backdraft to that list if you have not found out already.

Non-anamorphic DVDs will display thier AR inside a 4:3 window. Curious, but do they say "enhanced for 16x9 TVs"?

Well, no disrespect but I must disagree. I've watched literally 400-500 hundred DVD's on my Zenith 318 and Mits 55 inch widescreen and EVERY one of them displayed properly, anamorphic, non-anamorphic, enhanced, 2.35:1, etc...

Now, I've watched a couple of hundred, many of them the same DVD's, on the D1/IN72 combo and seen almost a dozen with this problem. In fact, I just loaded up When a Man Loves a Woman into the Zenith 318/Mits and it displayed perfectly. It isn't the DVD's but something in either the D1 (my choice) or the IN72.

Also, I don't think that non-anamorphic has anything to do with it as most DVD's are non-anamorphic (I think). I even remember watching The Fabulous Baker Boys (the very first DVD I noticed had this problem) and it was fine. I only watched half the movie and the next night was going to watch the other half and I was very surprised to see widescreen inside a 4:3 window as I had never seen that before with DVD's.

I appreciate your interest and I hope we can get a resolution. Now, every time I stick a DVD in, I wince.

As an aside, anybody ever hear of this one? I am starting to get a little lamp flicker at about 800 hours. It seems to happen at initial start up and settles down after a bit. I emailed InFocus tech support and they advised me to remove the lamp and shake it around a bit, then run it inverted (my usual and normal setup) for 5 or 6 hours straight and that should resolve the issue.

Bueller?.?.?...

George -bub

at least all those movies aren't that good.

;)

sorry. that wasn't helping. just kidding.

bub, you're incorrect, Most DVD's ARE anamorphic, probably something like 98% or more. Good luck with the "inside the box" problem, wish I could be more helpful.

Bub

Neither the D1 nor the IN72 is at fault - it is the DVD itself. And I'm pretty sure you lose your 1:1 when selecting 4:3.

BTW, you can add Backdraft to that list if you have not found out already.

Non-anamorphic DVDs will display thier AR inside a 4:3 window. Curious, but do they say "enhanced for 16x9 TVs"?

I just noticed when i watch movies on TNT HD that are 720 and 1080 that the sides morph, almost as if putting the projecteer in teh native wide mode. My HD cable runs through the DVI.

The DVDs I watch do not do that and that runs thriugh HDMI.
Very strange. Especially because other HD programing does not morph like that. Shows like American Chopper, Dexter, Anything on Discovery HD.

bluto2000gs

That is because TNT HD, for the most part (IMHO), sucks. Mine does the same thing and it drives me crazy - and only TNT HD!

bub, you're incorrect, Most DVD's ARE anamorphic, probably something like 98% or more. Good luck with the "inside the box" problem, wish I could be more helpful.

I stand corrected...
Certainly not 98%, but from my ~60 DVD sample, looks to be about 83%.

Still, my collection is now fast approaching 900 DVD's, so given that rate 153 DVD's would be non-anamorphic. I've seen about 11 problems so hardly representative of a problem with non-anamorphic DVD's in my opinion. Especially since those DVD's play perfectly on my Zenith 318/Mits combo.

I would just really like to know exactly why this is happening.

Happy holidays to all,
George -bub

Any comment on the InFocus 'shake it until it fixes itself' advice for my flickering lamp? See post above...

Still, my collection is now fast approaching 900 DVD's, so given that rate 153 DVD's would be non-anamorphic. I've seen about 11 problems so hardly representative of a problem with non-anamorphic DVD's in my opinion. Especially since those DVD's play perfectly on my Zenith 318/Mits combo.


I think I missed this part - so on the IF it boxes it into a 4:3 window.

BUT on your 318 (good player btw)/Mits combo, it plays them in a "normal" 16x9 AR?

I posted this in the IN72 specific thread, but I am not getting a response so I thought I would post here.

I am ceiling mounting my projector and I am having some issues. First I will give the numbers:
Screen 41.5" from ceiling (10' ceiling)
My mount was designed for a center of lens height of 29" plus or minus 1/2" (DIY mount as seen elsewhere here)
I am using the 92" screen that came from infocus
according to the site the vertical offset (128% of screen height) is 12.6" (41.5-12.6=28.9)

Projector is 149" from screen. (not relevant as far as I can tell)

I am experiencing some keystoning 1/2" on each side at the top of the screen. I have to lower the projector to 33" from the ceiling (8.5" of offset) to get very mild keystone of 1/8".

I am at a loss for why I am so far off from the factory recommendations. Should I send the unit back?

I would really like to have the projector at the recommended height.


Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Chris

I think I missed this part - so on the IF it boxes it into a 4:3 window.

BUT on your 318 (good player btw)/Mits combo, it plays them in a "normal" 16x9 AR?

Howdy,
Yup, you have it correct. The movies I mentioned display widescreen but inside a 4:3 frame using the D1/IN72 but display properly using the Zenith 318/Mits.

George

Projector is 149" from screen. (not relevant as far as I can tell)




Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Chris

I'm not an expert on this but I think this is the key... I do believe that distance from the screen does have an impact on offset. Because offset is tied to image height, the farther you are from the screen, the larger the image, thereby you are increasing the offset.

I think it is always best to mount the projector first, then the screen.

Good luck,
George -bub

I just noticed when i watch movies on TNT HD that are 720 and 1080 that the sides morph, almost as if putting the projecteer in teh native wide mode. My HD cable runs through the DVI.

The DVDs I watch do not do that and that runs thriugh HDMI.
Very strange. Especially because other HD programing does not morph like that. Shows like American Chopper, Dexter, Anything on Discovery HD.


I guess they are just vertically stretching 2.35 movies to fit in 16:9
I was watching 6th day and the entire image looked vertically stretched
not just morphed at the sides.

They could instead crop the sides of 2.35 to get 16:9 without ruining the
aspect ratio but then there are going to be people who will complain about
missing the sides.

Is it possible at all to show a 2.35 movie in 16:9 without losing any part of the image and witout morphing objects?

It is easy to go from 16:9 to 2.35 (without morphing) by using external
scaler (if the PJ doesnt do the stretch) and lens but is it possible to
go from 2.35 to 16:9 and look normal? Just curious.


How are other HD channels like Showtime HD or HBO HD treating 2.35
movies. I dont have those channels so I dont know if they also look
morphed.

Thanks for the reply George
My understanding was that since you were using zoom to get the image size it did not matter. I mounted the screen first because my wife has a preference for a certain image height. I have searched the infocus website and can find no calculator that includes distance to screen. I suppose It made me mad because the number listed in the excel calculator is very specific to the tenth of an inch, but the final number I get is 40% from the recommended value. I am pretty sure they just botched the lens alignment, but there is no excuse for this in my opinion.
Chris

Hi
Could someone please post the dvi settings which Bob Williams posted for 4805.
Not the 58 gain and 28-29 offset for all 2 colors. He had posted separate gains and offsets for R, G, B but I just cant find that post in the archived thread. I only get the 58 gain 29 offset post.

I read that those DVI settings which Bob gave
for 4805 can also be used for In72

thanks

Mupi, I'm not certain myself, but I don't think the DVI setting on the IN72 needs to be changed, I think it comes set up for video and not pc level. Those changes were necessary for the 4805 because it was partly a business projector design and pc's were used for power point presentations. Perhaps one of the experts here can clarify.

Thanks for the reply George
My understanding was that since you were using zoom to get the image size it did not matter. I mounted the screen first because my wife has a preference for a certain image height. I have searched the infocus website and can find no calculator that includes distance to screen. I suppose It made me mad because the number listed in the excel calculator is very specific to the tenth of an inch, but the final number I get is 40% from the recommended value. I am pretty sure they just botched the lens alignment, but there is no excuse for this in my opinion.
Chris

Howdy,
I have read in the forums that others were having the same problems with the calculator but, if I remember correctly, all were eventually satisfied that it was an error on thier part (but I could be wrong there).

You should be able to mount the screen, then use the calculator to find a 'range' of distances the projector could be from the screen to maintain the screen height you want.

I could be way off base on this one but I would think that it wouldn't matter how you eventually arrived at your chosen screen height, either projector placement and/or amount of zoom. Bottom line, the height of the image, whether because of projector distance or amount of zoom used or a combination of the two, is the deciding factor for offset.

If you were to change the distance of the projector from the screen, you would see the image change in both size and placement (the closer the two were together, the smaller the image and the smaller the offset, meaning the top of the image would appear closer to the ceiling if the projector were inverted). Also, if the projector were at a fixed distance but you extended the zoom, you would again see a smaller image as well as the image would be closer to your ceiling (again with the projector inverted).

I hope that all makes sense and that I am correct.

You still should be able to mount your projector after mounting your screen IF you can get the calculator to output numbers correctly. The calculator should be able to give you a range of distances of the projector from the screen that the zoom will be able to generate the needed image size to fit your screen.

Good luck and my advice would be to wait to hear from a smarter person from here on the forums to make sure the information is correct.
George -bub

distance from the screen does have an impact on offset.It is only indirectly related. The image offset amount is a fixed per centage of the image height. It doesn't matter whether you are using full zoom or no zoom or anywhere in between - the image offset per centage is constant. Therefore, for a given screen size/image offset amount, the throw distance can vary considerably.

I have searched the infocus website and can find no calculator that includes distance to screen.All of the calculators on the InFocus Web-Site (http://www.infocus.com/service/IN72/resources.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&) have "distance to screen"! :confused:

I'm sorry perhaps I should be more clear. There is no calculator on the infocus website that relates image offset to screen distance. (because they do not seem to be related)

I'm sorry perhaps I should be more clear. There is no calculator on the infocus website that relates image offset to screen distance. (because they do not seem to be related) :confused: I don't know what you are looking at but, for a supplied screen width, the InFocus calculator provides all of: screen height screen diagonal minimum projector distance (throw) maximum projection distance (throw) image offset amount recommended minimum viewing distance minimum screen distance to ceiling (using an InFocus mount) image brightness (for low power on a 1.0 screen)Here is a direct link to the InFocus Excel Calculator (http://www.infocus.com/service/IN72/downloads/in72-74-76-78%20calculator%20-%20english.xls) in case you are having some difficulty finding it!

I'm not really sure if this should go here or in the HTPC section, but here goes.

I've had my IN76 for several months now thanks to AVS ;), and well, it's kind of boring, nothing to tweak you know :eek:

That's a good thing I suppose, but there is one thing I'd really like to try, running at an exact multiple of 24Hz for film.

So the question is, I understand the IN76 can do 48Hz (but not 72). Does anyone have any hints, tips, pointers on setting up my HTPC (nVidia 6800) to do 48Hz over HDMI? Does the IN76 accept 48Hz over HDMI?

60 and 50Hz show up by default, but when I try a custom 48Hz, and try and test it, nothing happens (PJ doesn't re-sync).

Thanks in advance :)

So the question is, I understand the IN76 can do 48Hz (but not 72). Does anyone have any hints, tips, pointers on setting up my HTPC (nVidia 6800) to do 48Hz over HDMI? Does the IN76 accept 48Hz over HDMI?

60 and 50Hz show up by default, but when I try a custom 48Hz, and try and test it, nothing happens (PJ doesn't re-sync).

Thanks in advance :)

I run 48Hz over HDMI from my VP50 video processor to the IN76. I used to have the issue you describe and the solution for me was to hit the "auto image" button on the IN76 remote. It causes the pj to re-sync. I have since upgraded the pj from it's original firmware to the newer version and don't have the problem anymore. The VP50 software was also upgraded so it may have contributed to the fix too.

BTW, it looks great at 48!

Mike

I run 48Hz over HDMI from my VP50 video processor to the IN76. I used to have the issue you describe and the solution for me was to hit the "auto image" button on the IN76 remote. It causes the pj to re-sync. I have since upgraded the pj from it's original firmware to the newer version and don't have the problem anymore. The VP50 software was also upgraded so it may have contributed to the fix too.

Thanks, unfortunately that didn't work, when I hit test, the drivers say 48, but nothing changes in the output (PJ still reports 60).

You wouldn't know the timings for 48Hz HDMI from the VP50 would you?

BTW, it looks great at 48!

Mike

I think I know what you're talking about, I got it to run at 50Hz, and when smooth it's much smoother than 60Hz, but then it jerks much worse too.

I'm using 848x480 at 48hz with a Nvidia 6200 and the Nvidia drivers. My PJ is the 4805 (almost the same thing as yours)

I'll post my settings tomorrow... I kno wthat I started by plugging in Jasons Powerstrip numbers into the Nvidia driver.. and then they tweaked the numbers a bit.
-W

I'm not an expert on this but I think this is the key... I do believe that distance from the screen does have an impact on offset. Because offset is tied to image height, the farther you are from the screen, the larger the image, thereby you are increasing the offset.

I think it is always best to mount the projector first, then the screen.

Good luck,
George -bub

ALWAYS mount the PJ 1st, establish "the shot", then mount the screen.
For the guy with the keystoning, just shim the top of the screen out an inch - worked for me. If the screen is painted o the wall - then you gotta change the shot height to fix the keystoning.

-W

I am aware of the calculator. If you read my post it is apparent. Please do this for me:
Open the calculator
Put in various projector distances with a fixed screen size
Let me know if the image offset varies (it will not and this is what we are discussing)
The question here is not whether I can find a calculator on a website the question is why I am experiencing so much less offset than infocus claims I should get and whether this is normal etc.

Well my Infocus In76 died on me last night. Had it turned on for about thirty minutes and it just shut off. No power and no LED’s lit at all. This is the third unit that this has happened to me. My first one died after three days (bought the extended warranty after this happened). My second one died after about a month and a half. My third one lasted about seven months. Every single one just quit working and would not get power after the projector shut itself off. I have checked and double checked all my outlets with a GFI tester and a multimeter and everything tests fine. I am also using the mount from Infocus for this projector. I thought the reason my first two died is because I was using it in high power mode. I thought I had that problem solved by not turning high power mode on (which shouldn’t be a problem anyways) but my third one died last night and it was not in high power mode (latest firmware installed). After reading through this forum it was easy to determine that I was not the only person having this problem and this has happened to a lot of people who have the IN72 and IN76. From what I’ve read it seems like Infocus has switched from a 1A fuse to a 2A fuse to solve this problem. My question is has changing the fuse solved this problem? It seems like there were a lot of posts on here from September and October of people having this problem but I have not seen anyone else post this problem recently. I just want to know if this issue has been resolved and if it was caused by a design flaw. I really love this projector and like most people after moving to front projection I can’t ever see myself going back but these problems have just been a huge headache. Thanks in advance for any feedback.

I've had an IN76 for 7.5 months (yes since they introduced) and have not had any failures. Do I have a great unit or am I on the lucky side of the statistics?

FYI,

I have a dedicated 12A circuit to my PJ power outlet and I have a monster power conditioner on that outlet. I did upgrade the firmware once to v2.4 and see no reason for another upgrade.

k

Lucky side.... My IN76 just blew the power supply board or fuse that everyone has mentioned. My projector is 6 months old. I can’t believe I spent over $2k and Infocus wants $99 to do an advanced exchange. I don’t think that’s very customer focused.

Hasn't happened to me yet , but I have periodically called Infocus support to see if there is any updated information on this issue. The CSR's downplay this issue as being "extremely random" and do not shed any light on the potential cause. You almost get the suspicion that they have been instructed not to disclose any details on what is obviously an inherent problem.

I am aware of the calculator.... Put in various projector distances with a fixed screen size ... Let me know if the image offset varies (it will not and this is what we are discussing)I still don't know what you are looking at!! :confused:

As I stated above, you enter the screen width - NOT the distance. The calculator doesn't work that way!

And, yes, the image offset amount certainly changes with different inputs! I use it almost every day!!!!!!!

Note that the image offset amount is not directly related to "distance". It is a function of image height alone. Using the zoom lens, you can obtain the same image height (and therefore the same image offset amount) over a range of "distance" - hence distance is not directly related to image offset amount!

Open the InFocus Excel Calculator (http://www.infocus.com/service/IN72/downloads/in72-74-76-78%20calculator%20-%20english.xls) I sent you before and find out for yourself!!

what is the "film mode" option for in the in72 advanced menu? Looks like it is a 4805 like glitch, you can access it and switch it off through component cables. One member is reporting smoother looking images with teh D1 combo. I'll try it later tonight.

I am experiencing some keystoning 1/2" on each side at the top of the screen. I have to lower the projector to 33" from the ceiling (8.5" of offset) to get very mild keystone of 1/8".Is the Keystone setting in the projector at default?

From post 3621 "Thanks for the reply George
My understanding was that since you were using zoom to get the image size it did not matter. I mounted the screen first because my wife has a preference for a certain image height. I have searched the infocus website and can find no calculator that includes distance to screen. I suppose It made me mad because the number listed in the excel calculator is very specific to the tenth of an inch, but the final number I get is 40% from the recommended value. I am pretty sure they just botched the lens alignment, but there is no excuse for this in my opinion."

As you can see here I understand this is based on the image height (i have used the calculator to setup the projector and I am very familiar with it).

Hopefully this will get us on the same page. basically I am at a loss for why I am experiencing so little offset with my projector and I am curious if others have had the same problem.

I am very aware that the calculation is based on screen height etc and I always have been, just in case you were wondering.

Yes the keystone is at the default setting of 50.

From post 3621 "Thanks for the reply George
My understanding was that since you were using zoom to get the image size it did not matter. I mounted the screen first because my wife has a preference for a certain image height. I have searched the infocus website and can find no calculator that includes distance to screen. I suppose It made me mad because the number listed in the excel calculator is very specific to the tenth of an inch, but the final number I get is 40% from the recommended value. I am pretty sure they just botched the lens alignment, but there is no excuse for this in my opinion."

As you can see here I understand this is based on the image height (i have used the calculator to setup the projector and I am very familiar with it).

Hopefully this will get us on the same page. basically I am at a loss for why I am experiencing so little offset with my projector and I am curious if others have had the same problem.

I am very aware that the calculation is based on screen height etc and I always have been, just in case you were wondering.

Yes the keystone is at the default setting of 50.
The highlighted sentence is what caused the confusion for those trying to help you.

The highlighted sentence is what caused the confusion for those trying to help you.That and ....I am aware of the calculator. If you read my post it is apparent. Please do this for me:
Open the calculator
Put in various projector distances with a fixed screen size
Let me know if the image offset varies (it will not and this is what we are discussing)
The question here is not whether I can find a calculator on a website the question is why I am experiencing so much less offset than infocus claims I should get and whether this is normal etc.

:D

Fine
Now, do you have anything relevant to my specific question as far as how normal this is?

cdenton, Have you measured the screen to cofinfirm that you were actually sent a 92"d (about 45" h x 80"w)?

Just trying to help.

Mike

Yes sir I have. I am really grasping for an explanation.
Thanks
Chris

I posted this in the IN72 specific thread, but I am not getting a response so I thought I would post here.

I am ceiling mounting my projector and I am having some issues. First I will give the numbers:
Screen 41.5" from ceiling (10' ceiling)
My mount was designed for a center of lens height of 29" plus or minus 1/2" (DIY mount as seen elsewhere here)
I am using the 92" screen that came from infocus
according to the site the vertical offset (128% of screen height) is 12.6" (41.5-12.6=28.9)

Projector is 149" from screen. (not relevant as far as I can tell)

I am experiencing some keystoning 1/2" on each side at the top of the screen. I have to lower the projector to 33" from the ceiling (8.5" of offset) to get very mild keystone of 1/8".

I am at a loss for why I am so far off from the factory recommendations. Should I send the unit back?

I would really like to have the projector at the recommended height.


Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Chris
Is your pj absolutely level and is the screen wall plumb? If not, either of these could be the root cause of your problems.

do you have anything relevant to my specific question as far as how normal this is?It is not normal. Something is awry.

Root cause--what industry do you work in?
I will check tonight.
Thanks
Chris

Hello,

I have my 360 hooked up to my IN76 via component to receiver hdmi to PJ. It seems very dark. I've messed around with some settings but can't seem to find something I'm happy with. I've tried changing to crt mode and pc mode. It does improve things but still not the exceptional picture that I'm spoiled with while watching TV or Dvd's.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!

Most, but not all 360 games have a setting to adjust brightness and the 360 will save those setting so you don't have to adjust them everytime you play that game and you don't have to mess with your projector settings. Hope this helps.

Sounds like your receiver is doing something weird on the HDMI conversion. I've got a 360 connected directly to my IN76 and it produces a great picture, not dark at all.

Hello,

I have my 360 hooked up to my IN76 via component to receiver hdmi to PJ. It seems very dark. I've messed around with some settings but can't seem to find something I'm happy with. I've tried changing to crt mode and pc mode. It does improve things but still not the exceptional picture that I'm spoiled with while watching TV or Dvd's.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!

see if you can go into the colorspace setting and change from rgb video to rgb. i have to do that with my wii. i run component in to my pio 84 and hdmi out to my in72.

I posted this in the IN72 specific thread, but I am not getting a response so I thought I would post here.

I am ceiling mounting my projector and I am having some issues. First I will give the numbers:
Screen 41.5" from ceiling (10' ceiling)
My mount was designed for a center of lens height of 29" plus or minus 1/2" (DIY mount as seen elsewhere here)
I am using the 92" screen that came from infocus
according to the site the vertical offset (128% of screen height) is 12.6" (41.5-12.6=28.9)

Projector is 149" from screen. (not relevant as far as I can tell)

I am experiencing some keystoning 1/2" on each side at the top of the screen. I have to lower the projector to 33" from the ceiling (8.5" of offset) to get very mild keystone of 1/8".

I am at a loss for why I am so far off from the factory recommendations. Should I send the unit back?

I would really like to have the projector at the recommended height.


Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Chris

try slightly tilting the projector up towards the ceiling. i've done this with all 4 of my infocus pj's and have been content with the results. for various reasons; i.e. higher than average screen positions, low ceilings, etc. i've done this to achieve an accurate throw with ever so slight distorition which can be masked by the blackout borders of your screen.

i don't have a scientific explanation for your problem, but am curious if the geometric distortion can be 100% eliminated by lengthening your drop? (if i'm reading that right, i believe you said lengthening acheived less distortion). if this isn't possible to test in your setup, then can you achieve a 100% geometrically accurate picture shooting tabletop against a wall with the supplied stand? if you can't then yes, something's wrong. if you can, then the only explanation is that the optics are not within mfg. spec. plain and simple.

i'd probably guess that a budget projector like the in72 has a little "looser" qc when it comes to hitting it's numbers, but what do i know.

good luck and i hope you can get your issue resolved or come to peace with it and enjoy the show.

Well my Infocus In76 died on me last night. Had it turned on for about thirty minutes and it just shut off. No power and no LED’s lit at all. This is the third unit that this has happened to me. My first one died after three days (bought the extended warranty after this happened). My second one died after about a month and a half. My third one lasted about seven months. Every single one just quit working and would not get power after the projector shut itself off. I have checked and double checked all my outlets with a GFI tester and a multimeter and everything tests fine. I am also using the mount from Infocus for this projector. I thought the reason my first two died is because I was using it in high power mode. I thought I had that problem solved by not turning high power mode on (which shouldn’t be a problem anyways) but my third one died last night and it was not in high power mode (latest firmware installed). After reading through this forum it was easy to determine that I was not the only person having this problem and this has happened to a lot of people who have the IN72 and IN76. From what I’ve read it seems like Infocus has switched from a 1A fuse to a 2A fuse to solve this problem. My question is has changing the fuse solved this problem? It seems like there were a lot of posts on here from September and October of people having this problem but I have not seen anyone else post this problem recently. I just want to know if this issue has been resolved and if it was caused by a design flaw. I really love this projector and like most people after moving to front projection I can’t ever see myself going back but these problems have just been a huge headache. Thanks in advance for any feedback.

i feel your pain. not quite as bad, but i do feel it. i had my in72 die at around 1600 hours, 2 days after i upgraded my firmware. and 2 hours after i had set it to high lamp mode. i came in from the kitchen after making breakfast and nothing. no lights, no nothing. brick.

according to infocus EVERY unit that leaves their factory and repair center, does so according to the latest manufacturing spec. there's bound to be a lot more people reporting the problem as there are certainly a lot of 1 amp fuse owners out there. infocus' stance is and has been fix on fail only. kind of sucks, but it is what it is.

i would call infocus and respectfully demand that they make things right. if you don't get the answers you seek from level 1 (and you may not) demand that you speek to a supervisor and/or service manager. you don't need to be rude, or angry, but you shouldn't back down either. i can tell you that in my last service experience i had some issues, but they were more than willing to make things right. and they did. after 3 units, imo, you are entitled to a brand new unit with a new bulb and a new warranty. not a refurb. feel confident though, with a 2 amp fuse, aside from something else failing, you won't have to worry about the fuse issue.

i own both an in72 and an in76. if i didn't love them so much, i would have been much more upset with all of this. the fact of the matter is, they simply throw an amazing picture.

best of luck. they'll take care of you. just be persistent.

Thanks for the help. I'll look into those later tonight.

I have been able to get the picture on the screen perfect by dropping the projector an extra 6 inches or so. The projector, however, is not level it is pointing up by about 4 deg. The wall is plumb and the screen is parallel to the wall.
Man, I was really thinking that the wall was not plumb as I had not checked that, but to no avail.
Thanks for all your help and suggestions.
Chris

The projector, however, is not level it is pointing up by about 4 deg.Then there is definitely something wrong with your projector. I suggest you call InFocus Customer Service.

"according to infocus EVERY unit that leaves their factory and repair center, does so according to the latest manufacturing spec. there's bound to be a lot more people reporting the problem as there are certainly a lot of 1 amp fuse owners out there. infocus' stance is and has been fix on fail only. kind of sucks, but it is what it is."

Billymac - Sounds like you have managed to get some detailed information from Infocus - when I spoke with the Infocus CSR's, they barely acknowledged that there's a problem. I guess there is more incentive to be persistent if you have unit that has failed.
I got my IN76 in June, so in all likelihood I have the 1A fuse. Is it your opinion that all IN72's & 76's, with the 1A fuse, will eventually fail ? Are there any precautions that you suggest taking, other than not putting the unit in high power mode or upgrading the firmware, that might reduce the chance of blowing the fuse ? With the Playoffs and Super Bowl coming up, I have become increasingly concerned about this issue. Thanks...

"according to infocus EVERY unit that leaves their factory and repair center, does so according to the latest manufacturing spec. there's bound to be a lot more people reporting the problem as there are certainly a lot of 1 amp fuse owners out there. infocus' stance is and has been fix on fail only. kind of sucks, but it is what it is."

Billymac - Sounds like you have managed to get some detailed information from Infocus - when I spoke with the Infocus CSR's, they barely acknowledged that there's a problem. I guess there is more incentive to be persistent if you have unit that has failed.
I got my IN76 in June, so in all likelihood I have the 1A fuse. Is it your opinion that all IN72's & 76's, with the 1A fuse, will eventually fail ? Are there any precautions that you suggest taking, other than not putting the unit in high power mode or upgrading the firmware, that might reduce the chance of blowing the fuse ? With the Playoffs and Super Bowl coming up, I have become increasingly concerned about this issue. Thanks...

if you're talking to india, they know nothing. they're scripted and have very little, if any technical knowledge of the products.

there's two factors at work on the fuse issue. power and heat. technically, i can't explain with accuracy how it happens, but i was always concerned about upgrading the firmware when the fix came out to lower fan noise. i even pm'd kraz to get his take on it, but he didn't think there could be any correlation. the fact is though lowering fan noise in my mind, means adding heat. it seems pretty coincidental that 2 days after i upgraded to the latest firmware (3 rev jump by the way) that my fuse blew after 2 hours of high lamp mode. that's after 1600+ hours with no issues, high or low. now i'm totally speculating here, but i think there's a correlation between the newer firmware, ceiling mount installations and high lamp mode. two level 2 csr's (not india) told me there's not, but one did mention heat as being part of the equation along with ceiling mount installations. the other said it had nothing to do with heat and everything to do with power. i tend to believe it has to do with both.

if i were you, and you plan on having a superbowl party, i wouldn't mess with your firmware until after superbowl sunday, and i wouldn't run in high lamp mode either. after superbowl, i'd upgrade, and i'd run that baby in high for a few movies or so and see what happens. in escense, try to make it blow. in my instance, i upgraded, switched to high lamp to watch an hd-dvd, and then the next morning after 30 minutes (forgot to switch back to low lamp) it blew. alternatively, you could email infocus (or call) and try and find out which fuse you have based on serial number. i believe there are less in76 with the 1 amp fuse than the in72, but having an early mfg date does put you more at risk. i'm in the same boat.

i own the in76 as well (bought in april) and i've been hesitant to upgrade, but i think i'm going to do it and see what happens. i'd hate to have it go out shortly after my warranty expires.

again, much of my theory is speculative, but there just seems to be too much evidence supporting a correlation to ignore. especially all those folks around october/november who upgraded their firmware only to have the fuse go. i'm not the only one.

good luck and happy new year!

Billymac - Thanks so much for your quick response and sound advice - very helpful.
Happy new year to you as well...

Here's wishing you all a a no-blow out happy, healthy and wealthy New Year. Thanks for all the help and advice, I'm certain to be needing more of it soon!

Anyone have any problems ordering directly from infocus? I placed an order on 12/12, the first IN 72 got lost, I got billed, and they shipped out another one which I have yet to see...WTF! :(
And this was to replace my 4805...

todd

That was because they had to send billymac a new PJ :p

Anyone have any problems ordering directly from infocus? I placed an order on 12/12, the first IN 72 got lost, I got billed, and they shipped out another one which I have yet to see...WTF! :(
And this was to replace my 4805...

again, this is a case where persistance on the phone is necessary. if you can't get the information you want from india, politely demand to speak to someone who can. with my last case, the csr from india could not explain why i had a charge on my card that was simply supposed to be a colateral authorization and not an actual debit to my account. after about 15 minutes i politely demanded to speak to someone who could help me. he said he'd have to have someone call me back. i was hesitant to hang up the phone, but it was clear he couldn't help me so i decided to give it a few hours. within 15 minutes an accounts receiveable employee from wilsonville called me back and made things right. i would call back and get a tracking number. also, it's helpful that you get a call reference number each time you call and make notes on everything, including who you speak to, etc. cya as they say.

Sounds like I'm in the same fuse boat as others here. On Christmas eve, my IN76 just plain died. The outlet is fine, the projector just won't power on anymore.

I got my unit in June, which means I probably have the 1Amp fuse. I also have NOT upgraded my firmware, so I'm still on the one it shipped with. Additionally, I was running my PJ in High Power mode when it died (in an attempt to make the flicker go away). Sounds like the 1Amp fuse and High Power mode don't mix very well.

Question - can I try replacing the fuse myself? Or is this something that MUST be returned to InFocus to repair?

-Dan

Sounds like I'm in the same fuse boat as others here. On Christmas eve, my IN76 just plain died. The outlet is fine, the projector just won't power on anymore.

I got my unit in June, which means I probably have the 1Amp fuse. I also have NOT upgraded my firmware, so I'm still on the one it shipped with. Additionally, I was running my PJ in High Power mode when it died (in an attempt to make the flicker go away). Sounds like the 1Amp fuse and High Power mode don't mix very well.

Question - can I try replacing the fuse myself? Or is this something that MUST be returned to InFocus to repair?

-Dan


not sure why you'd want to, because you risk voiding your warranty. they're quoting 3 week lead time on repairs right now, or you can pony up $99 for a refurb and have it within a couple days, but you've got to let them authorize (not debit) approx $650 for colateral on the defective unit to ensure they get it back. or you can just pay $99 send yours in and they'll send a refurb when they receive your dead unit back. that eliminates the colateral charge. the $99 gets you a reconditioned unit meeting the latest design spec and you roll the dice on the bulb. there policy is less than 20% (600 hours), but usually it's much less if any. i received 2 replacements and both of them had zero hours, but i know someone else who got one and it had 400+. for me it was a no-brainer because i had 1600+ hours on mine. the $99 refurb unit will run in warranty parody to your original unit.

but you've got to let them authorize (not debit) approx $650 for colateral on the defective unit to ensure they get it back. or you can just pay $99 send yours in and they'll send a refurb when they receive your dead unit back. that eliminates the colateral charge


When I did the $99 exchange for my in76 it was a $2155 (2000 + tax) actual charge which appeared on my CC statement. Infocus did credit back my CC after they received my unit. Of course that happened after my bill so the $2K was pulled from my checking and now I have a large CC credit for this month.

oh, hey, sorry about that. i was thinking in72. yes, the in76 colateral chage is more. BUT, they should not be doing anything more than authorizing it. which is essentially making sure the funds are available. there should not be an actual debit. i confirmed this with their AR person.

Three week lead time? That stinks. It's also a lame policy that you COULD get a bulb with a lot time than the one you send in. (Though in my case, maybe a bit more would help get rid of the slight flicker in brightness I was seeing when mine died.)

I don't think I reigstered the warranty information when I bought it. Will they hassle me when I call? What do I need for them when I call - just the serial number? I saw the tips on escalating if need be with the CSR folks - that's good to know.

-Dan

you can go online and register on their website. i think it will actually register you when you try to download a firmware rev. if i remember right, that's how i registered mine. yeah 3 weeks is a long time. it could be sooner, but i highly doubt it. they move a bit slower in kentucky. ;) no flames please, i'm just teasing.

the refurb is definitely a crapshoot. i got 2 and they both were in okay condition, but you could see some wipe marks and such from the dusting job they did. like i said, it really depends on how many hours you've got and how long you can live without your pj. it's times like these, having another pj laying around is definitely a good idea. me, i had a 4805 up while mine was out of service. nice to have the in72 back though. i like it better and i use both digital inputs.

Your warranty will be valid from time of sales receipt - but you will have to get it logged onto their system before they can process a service ticket. IF you get a helpful CSR they will take care of both at the same time.

For those who bought REfurbs - those are 90d warranty unless the extension to a year was purchased then. However when they do a refurb replacement rather than repair on the year warranty - you still have your original warranty rather than a refurb warranty.

The lamp half life is around 100hrs because of exponential decay. So longer hours is not going to be visually any different - and lamp life is the luck of the draw anyways - not a guarantee just an average depending on usage and individual lamps. Maybe you lose the hours difference in the end - maybe you gain them in the end.

They do sell PriorityExchange warranties at $229 first year + $100 for extra years for those that want guaranteed minimal downtime - but that is more commonly used in biz. So it comes down to $99 and get a refurb - or three weeks max and get yours (which technically became a refurb). Maybe you are lucky and they turn it around next day - then you are just out shipping time.

mine only had 56 hours of decay, but i started flossing, so it's all good. :p

Then luck says you will lose 1600-56 hours at the end of the refurb life - the house always wins they just let you get ahead to keep you playing :D

as long as i get 2000+ hours i'll be happy

otherwise i'll have to buy a new bulb. errrr- :D

anyone want to come over to the In72 thread? I think a few people are questioning the 72 over the 4805. I have both now and I'm inbetween the two. Better contrast vs 72hz vs other stuff (hows that for technical jargon :D )

we want 72hz firmware!

I got my refurbished projector back from Infocus yesterday after setting up my advance exchange after my other one died last week (about positive it was because of the 1A fuse). I was pretty suprised when I was writing down the serial number of my new projector that it was exactly one number off of the serial number for my brick which means they were originally built at the same time. I don't know why that one got sent in to begin with but I have a strong feeling it's the 1A fuse. I've already sent an email to infocus to verify that I have a 2A fuse in my replacement projector and I am waiting to hear back from them. Another quick question I have is I currently have my projector mount installed with two toggle bolts in the drywall, not in the joist. Would putting a 2x4 in between the joists reduce any vibration the projector might get from my sub or people moving around the room. I am just trying to have everything set up properly to avoid any future issues. I am not worried about the weight of the projector on the toggle bolts, just any vibration it could receive that could cause problems being mounted that way. Thanks in advance for your help.

Well I purchased a IN76 at the end of March '06. I had just a little over 700 hours on it and then *blank* goes the projector. Total power down, no lights, nada. I assume it was a fuse issue. Contacted Dave Burger and sent the unit off today. Shipping via UPS was not cheap ($45 w/ $2k insurance). I assume they will replace the 1A fuse with a 2A fuse and update the firmware? Will they do a lens cleaning?

I hope there are no more "surprises" with this projector. Other than this, I have been very pleased with my purchase.

I thought I read that the IN76 M1-DA/DVI input connection could be used as a second HDMI input with the appropriate cable adapter or cable. Looking through cables offered on the InFocus site I can't seem to figure out what I should order. I have a Samsung off air HDTV turner hooked into the regular HDMI projector connection and want to connect a Toshiba HD DVD player into the projector's M1-DA/DVI connection. HELP!!!!
I also need the appropriate cable to down load firmware updates to the projector from a 9100 Dell Inspiron computer.
Thanks-

I thought I read that the IN76 M1-DA/DVI input connection could be used as a second HDMI input with the appropriate cable adapter or cable. Looking through cables offered on the InFocus site I can't seem to figure out what I should order. I have a Samsung off air HDTV turner hooked into the regular HDMI projector connection and want to connect a Toshiba HD DVD player into the projector's M1-DA/DVI connection. HELP!!!!
I also need the appropriate cable to down load firmware updates to the projector from a 9100 Dell Inspiron computer.
Thanks-

You can find both cables at monoprice, search for the length you need:
M1-HDMI
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10238&cs_id=1023802&p_id=2698&seq=1&format=2&style=
M1-USB/DVI
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10238&cs_id=1023801&p_id=3040&seq=1&format=2&style=

For firmware updates, you only need to plug in the M1 to IN76 and the USB end to your pc. Be sure to read the update instructions very carefully(included with firmware download)before starting

I'm planning on moving the pj a bit closer and if I have to, raising my screen a little to get rid of the slight trapezoid I've been living with. Since the PJ will be coming down, it's the perfect time for a firmware upgrade, but I've never done a firmware upgrade myself. I always happened to need to send the PJ (4805) in for a repair when newer firmware was posted. I have a DVI to M1 adapter that's about 8" long.

I've never taken a close inventory of the cables supplied with my IN72 or the 4805 for that matter, so perhaps I already have what I need for a firmware upgrade hidden in my closet somewhere. Any help or advice is appreciated..

Forgot to say how wonderful it is to have to borrow a PC because there's no Mac version available :mad:

I'm planning on moving the pj a bit closer and if I have to, raising my screen a little to get rid of the slight trapezoid I've been living with. Since the PJ will be coming down, it's the perfect time for a firmware upgrade, but I've never done a firmware upgrade myself. I always happened to need to send the PJ (4805) in for a repair when newer firmware was posted. I have a DVI to M1 adapter that's about 8" long.

I've never taken a close inventory of the cables supplied with my IN72 or the 4805 for that matter, so perhaps I already have what I need for a firmware upgrade hidden in my closet somewhere. Any help or advice is appreciated..

Forgot to say how wonderful it is to have to borrow a PC because there's no Mac version available :mad:

Martin,
you only need the M1-USB connection. Here's a 6ft cable, longer lengths are available.
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10238&cs_id=1023801&p_id=3040&seq=1&format=2&style=

See the pdf attached that comes with the firmware setup.

This information is probably somewhere in this thread, but I'm lazy.

Is the Infocus IN76 selling at reputable dealers for under 2k? I found some prices with a froogle search for around $1899, but I don't know if they're authorized dealers or not.

I really want another Infocus for my first 720p PJ, but I don't want spend more than twice what Optoma or Mitsubishi wants for theirs if it's not THAT much better.

I currently have an Infocus X1 and Optoma H31.

Thanks.

Is TigerDirect an authorized Infocus dealer?

Is TigerDirect an authorized Infocus dealer?
must be since they ARE NOT on the

Unauthorized Dealers List (http://www.infocus.com/deauthorized/index.htm)

I'm planning on moving the pj a bit closer and if I have to, raising my screen a little to get rid of the slight trapezoid I've been living with. Since the PJ will be coming down, it's the perfect time for a firmware upgrade, but I've never done a firmware upgrade myself. I always happened to need to send the PJ (4805) in for a repair when newer firmware was posted. I have a DVI to M1 adapter that's about 8" long.

I've never taken a close inventory of the cables supplied with my IN72 or the 4805 for that matter, so perhaps I already have what I need for a firmware upgrade hidden in my closet somewhere. Any help or advice is appreciated..

Forgot to say how wonderful it is to have to borrow a PC because there's no Mac version available :mad:


You should have gotten the correct M1-USB cable with your 4805.

Thanks SGibson and DCulver. I'll take a look through my box of cables tomorrow and see if it's still around. I have so many cables. After 3Macs, 2 PJ's, 12 DVD players and a few receivers, it's quite a snake pit in there!

This information is probably somewhere in this thread, but I'm lazy.

Is the Infocus IN76 selling at reputable dealers for under 2k? I found some prices with a froogle search for around $1899, but I don't know if they're authorized dealers or not.


There is a list of authorized or unauthorized dealers on the InFocus.com web site. I got my IN76 from AVScience. Call one of the salesmen listed. They might still have some, returned ones, or even new ones. Someone here said they were out about a month ago. The guy listed as installation/sales is really busy installing so you might get better communication with someone who just does sales. Nice enough guy just busy. He helped me a lot at first with my IN76 and I am really glad I went with it. I had company this weekend. Watched HD DVD of King Kong. Although the movie is somewhat deluded with all the bugs and dinosaurs, that didn't stop the comments of "Awesome!", "Amazing!" and "Wow!" and they had just purchased a new 42" plasma. I have the projector 18 feet away from a textured light cream colored wall. Can't see the texture or even tell the wall is not the best color/material for a screen. Wish I could get a screen but the picture is about 15'wide and 8-10' high. There are so many different aspect ratios with DVDs, HD DVDs, satellite, and off air what's a guy to do? Thought about getting an anamorphic lens but I'm not at all convinced that would cover all the bases, although I'm sure it would help. Right know I feel the room looks best with just a blank wall. Maybe later--Hope this helps.

You can find both cables at monoprice, search for the length you need:
M1-HDMI
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10238&cs_id=1023802&p_id=2698&seq=1&format=2&style=
M1-USB/DVI
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10238&cs_id=1023801&p_id=3040&seq=1&format=2&style=
For firmware updates, you only need to plug in the M1 to IN76 and the USB end to your pc. Be sure to read the update instructions very carefully(included with firmware download)before starting
Thanks a bunch!! I can't tell you how many places I've checked out. At several places (computer and home theater) we came to the conclusion these cables and adapters were all InFocus proprietary. Thanks again!

Is TigerDirect an authorized Infocus dealer?Phone InFocus Customer Service and ask them!! It seems to me that they were not authorized at one point.

Ok I asked around and it seems like they are an authorized dealer.
Does the IN72 sold at tigerdirect come with a one or two amp fuse?

Thanks a bunch!! I can't tell you how many places I've checked out. At several places (computer and home theater) we came to the conclusion these cables and adapters were all InFocus proprietary. Thanks again!

You're Welcome!

monoprice is among the best sources for cables and switches. Great prices and customer service!

Glad to help,
sgibson

Ok I asked around and it seems like they are an authorized dealer.
Does the IN72 sold at tigerdirect come with a one or two amp fuse?
It looks like InFocus has pulled their Unauthorized Dealer list. My web copy does not show TigerDirect listed as unauthroizd although InFocus may be getting ready to post a new list. Giving them a call is probably a good idea. Good luck! Try this:
http://www.infocus.com/deauthorized/index.htm

The rebate does not list tirgerdirect.

Just to add to any confusion. I called Infocus Support and they said TigerDirect was authorized.

The deauthorized list are those that did not respond to Infocus cease&desist lawyers. Those that do cease&desist get dropped from the authorized dealer lists - which is listed on the buying options link for local and online dealers - and more importantly on the list used by the rebate processor linked on the rebates page. Rebate processors do not allow exceptions and deviations - so if they are not listed on the qualified rebate list - they will deny your rebate. Infocus does not list those dealers that are neither authorized or deauthorized - if that makes any sense. Larger retailers that are authorized may not be on the rebate list because they made a deal with Infocus for instant rebates.

So make sure you are asking the right questions - authorized for rebate is different than authorized for warranty is different than authorized to sell biz projectors is different than authorized to sell HT projectors.

I received an email from Infocus stating that TigerDirect is an authorized dealer and that Infocus would honor rebates for IN72s purchased at TigerDirect.

Costco?? It lists costco as an unauthorized retailer. Could someone explain where they get all the projectors to sell?

Anyone with light tube problems on IN72 (or IN76)?

I have an Infocus 4805 with about 1350 hours on it that I bought at a warehouse, just under 2 years ago and I love it's performance. But as of last week, I started noticing the thick yellow band of light on the right side of my screen, essentially what others on the 4805 threads have attributed to a light tube or tunnel problem.

Since then I've been researching my options (I had hoped to hold on to the 4805 about another year or so, waiting patiently for an affordable 1080p projector). Due to a low 80" ceiling, the best option for me seems to be the Infocus IN72. With the current great TigerDirect price (after $200 rebate) it's a great deal. Note: I also verified today that TigerDirect purchases are valid for the rebate per Infocus cust. service). Plus it's offset is comparable to the 4805. However, if I understood him correctly, Infocus tech. support said that the SAME light tunnel design is included in the "IN" series! I figure if I had the problem after only 1300+ hours on my 4805, then it is also likely to show up on the IN72!? Any thoughts on this are greatly appreciated.

Wayneunit: However, if I understood him correctly, Infocus tech. support said that the SAME light tunnel design is included in the "IN" series! I figure if I had the problem after only 1300+ hours on my 4805, then it is also likely to show up on the IN72!?

Uh oh, I'd better get the extended warranty...

I'm looking for an upconverting DVD player that produces a better picture and sound than my Kenwood DV-5900M (7.1 sound + Faroudja processing). I will be using an InFocus 76 projector (PixelWorks processing) with the DVD player. Would prefer HDMI 3.1. I'm hoping one of the OPPOs or similarly priced DVD players are out there somewhere. I recently returned an HD Toshiba A2
after buying the HD DVD of King Kong to try out the Toshiba. It produced a very good image but I compared it to Gladiator and Stargate standard DVDs on the DV-5900M and there just wasn't that much difference. They were much closer than I expected. For $500 I need a bigger difference in picture quality. Anybody have any ideas?
Thanks-

Not sure which HDMI spec the new OPPO is, but it's worth looking at. It's basically the 971 with HDMI and SACD. Otherwise you'd have to go to the much higher priced Denon's to get comparable PQ. One cool thing about the OPPO is that you can always go over to a high def DVD format if you change your mind without the pain of having made a sizeable investment in a DVD player.

Wow, finally some posting activity and its about warranty and DVD players. No offense to those questions, but Infocus used to dominate this forum in this price range. Now, its all Optoma and Mitsu.

Why is that? Price? Corporate stumblings? There just isn't the kind of buzz with the IN stuff that there used to be with X1, 4805, etc. Maybe that's part of the market maturing, I dunno.

But I have to say that 6 months ago, I was sure my next upgrade (from 4805) would be an Infocus and now I would definitely consider another vendor. From a marketing perspective, it clearly seems Infocus has lost major momentum.

Wow, finally some posting activity and its about warranty and DVD players. No offense to those questions, but Infocus used to dominate this forum in this price range. Now, its all Optoma and Mitsu.

Why is that? Price? Corporate stumblings? There just isn't the kind of buzz with the IN stuff that there used to be with X1, 4805, etc. Maybe that's part of the market maturing, I dunno.

But I have to say that 6 months ago, I was sure my next upgrade (from 4805) would be an Infocus and now I would definitely consider another vendor. From a marketing perspective, it clearly seems Infocus has lost major momentum.
I don't know about most of the country but you can't find the IN76 in Home Theater Stores, chain electronic stores, etc., esp. at the 2K price-even AVS is out of them. It might be that they have their fuse, firmware downloads, etc. behind them for the most part. Lots of folks turn to this forum if they are having problems. No problems, no postings. I got the IN76 at a little over a grand off the MSRP. I know of three other folks who are looking for them. I don't regret getting mine, have even kind of bonded with it. Throws a huge very good HD picture on a textured cream colored wall-no screen. Then again this is my first projector so I have had nothing to compare it with. I kind of came to the same conclusion I was told by Jason Turk of AVS that it was, in his opinion, the best projector for the price, as well as through reviews I read on line and in trade magazines. In noticed the IN76 in a couple of current magazines along with its awards and accolades. Don't know if it is hype or truth but we can only make decisions based on the information/knowledge we have or have access to. I would like better standard TV definition over the IN76 but that's not the primary reason I selected it. By the way standard TV is much better if you take up the IN76's sharpness setting one notch from standard. When you decide to get a projector let us know what you get, why you chose it, and would you buy it agin. Right now, I would buy the IN76 again as I haven't read about or seen a better HD projector for under two grand. I'm now just waiting until I can afford a 1080p at a similar price. Wonder how long that will take and it certainly doesn't have to be an InFocus. They may not even be in business by then anyway. Best of luck and have fun looking!!

Actually they have other forums for what movies people are watching and the snacks and drinks they are consuming. Why post about a projector up on your ceiling that looks great and works fine when you can talk about the fun stuff?

Should everyone post that info here to keep the thread popular? Or should Infocus make a PJ that needs tweaking so it can have a popular sticky full of newbs saying post yer settings I need help to make this crappy PJ look right.

Sounds pretty damn boring to me - but to each his own....

Of course the thread only pops up when people have problems - that is what they come here for - to get their problems resolved. Also the IN72 split off into its own thread - and IN76 is at the top of this forums budget - you cannot convince people that 3x the quality is worth more than 3x the quantity when all they know is the price - so the forum has become the $1K and under forum. Feel free to use that as your purchase decision - but realize you are not getting the same tweak free Infocus picture.


Anyways I will start. I watched Clerks II and had chocolate popcorn last nite while the shiny projector did it's thing. I don't recommend that snak during the scene when Jay and Bob get a freebie burger....or the big "show".... :eek:

...a hugh very good HD picture on a textured cream colored wall-no screen. Then again this is my first projector so I have had nothing to compare it with...

James spend some more lunch money at AVS on some screen fabric, find an art supply store for custom canvas stretcher bars, stop by home depot for some staples (the spendy part is the air compressor you will want to buy!). You can also use velcro tape instead of staples - but I like the velcro mesh better as a cheapo black frame - and then you can velcro a print to it when not in use!

Well I purchased a IN76 at the end of March '06. I had just a little over 700 hours on it and then *blank* goes the projector. Total power down, no lights, nada. I assume it was a fuse issue. Contacted Dave Burger and sent the unit off today. Shipping via UPS was not cheap ($45 w/ $2k insurance). I assume they will replace the 1A fuse with a 2A fuse and update the firmware? Will they do a lens cleaning?

I hope there are no more "surprises" with this projector. Other than this, I have been very pleased with my purchase.

Sorry to quote myself here, but there were no replies to my message so...

I received the projector from Infocus today. It was packaged MUCH better than it was originally shipped to me. The firmware was upgraded to 2.6 for me. Other than that, I have no clue what was done. I would have thought there would have been an information sheet on what the actual problem was and what exactly was replaced. Oh well......

Off to play some Xbox360!

It's not easy finding out exactly was what done when InFocus repairs. Annoying, considering it's your property they're working on. Still, they have a consistant turnaround time and their repairs seem to be done properly.

It's not easy finding out exactly was what done when InFocus repairs. Annoying, considering it's your property they're working on. Still, they have a consistant turnaround time and their repairs seem to be done properly.
This is very good to know. Hopefully I won't have to try it out anytime soon.

James spend some more lunch money at AVS on some screen fabric, find an art supply store for custom canvas stretcher bars, stop by home depot for some staples (the spendy part is the air compressor you will want to buy!). You can also use velcro tape instead of staples - but I like the velcro mesh better as a cheapo black frame - and then you can velcro a print to it when not in use!
I think I may have offended AVS. They won't respond to my emails. I waited two days at home for a phone call that never came. Not sure they want my business even though that is where I got my IN76 and am grateful for their recommendations and help. I don't want to go into specifics here but I ended up getting items that were to come from AVS elsewhere.
I need the room to look nice, the cost to be reasonable (a lot less that the projector), and some idea as to what material or paint to use. I have thought about the Wilsonart Fashion Grey Laminate with a topcoat of Behr Clear Matte Poly. It will take more than one sheet though and I haven't decided how to hide the seams. Another consideration is Bright White Wilsonart Formica but still have to decide how to make it seamless. Just painting the wall might be the best way to go with say Bombadil Gray as mentioned in these forums. As you suggest material might be the way to go but even after reading a lot here about the different screen materials I feel less confident about making the correct decision here than with the laminates or paints. Which one will give me the very best picture with the IN76 in a family room that can be completely darkened but is also in use with some indirect ambient light at times?
Do feel your suggestion is definitely the best way to go for the best picture? If I can get AVS to communicate with me, maybe they will help me decide on the material and paint to spray it with. There are other considerations but that is later on down the road. Feel like I'm in the wrong thread with this but thanks for your input.

James, it's far less time and hassle to simply buy screen material and mount it yourself. Art stores have ready made frames that snap together and you can simply velcro or staple the material. You can get a high quality material that kills a painted surface for under $100 if you look around. The DaLite HCCV is a great place to start looking. Try this: jason@avscience.com

They won't respond to my emails.Alan told me once that it is their policy to do things by telephone; you'll not get them to quote you by email.

I just thought I'd post a follow up on my dead IN76 experience and dealings with InFocus.

My projector died Christmas eve, right in the middle of Rudolph! Oh, the horror! After looking at this forum, and trying some things out, I was certain that it was the 1 amp fuse that blew. My IN76 was purchased in May 2006 - which seems to be before they started using 2 amp fuses - and I had recently been running the PJ in high power mode to stabilize minor lamp fluctuations.

Anyway, after leaving town for a few days between Christmas and New Year's, I finally called InFocus on January 2nd. The first CSR (customer service rep) I spoke with made me transfer to technical support for troubleshooting. It was pretty obvious what the problem was - the thing would simply not power on - and the 2nd tech guy was nice and quickly said it needed to be sent in for fixing. So he took my info and said to expect an e-mail with the RMA authorization number within 48 hours. I decided not to have them send me a refurbished unit as others have done, though they actually never asked me about this on the phone. They said 15 business days for turnaround once the projector arrives... I figured that would make it back for the Superbowl at least!

Within an hour (yay!) I got the RMA e-mail. I still had the original box, so I boxed up the PJ and took it to FedEx. I sent it ground from Portland, OR, and with my FedEx account I was out only $22. You have to send it to their facility in Louisville, Kentucky - I think InFocus uses UPS for their warehousing, shipping and repair work apparently (like other companies do), though the repair work might happen in some other facility that sits right next to UPS's giant sorting facility. Leaving Portland January 2nd, the projector was delivered to Louisville on January 8th.

Well - shock of shocks - on Tuesday January 9th I got e-mail saying the projector was repaired and was already being shipped back! They had it there less than 24 hours! They sent it back UPS ground, and it arrived back this Monday morning January 15th. Excellent! :eek: That was less than 2 weeks turnaround! Most of that time was the shipping back and forth.

Even better, the firmware was upgraded to 2.5, and the picture seems a bit better than before, especially with the DVI connection from my PC. The only thing is that they didn't send it back in the original box that I sent it to them in. (Might make a difference if I want to sell it eventually? Maybe not...)

So despite my frustration with the fuse problem (really - that sounds like a manufacturing defect worthy of a recall or free replacement/fix to me) , InFocus did a great job with my return and repair. Kudos!

-Dan

Dan I am happy to hear that things went well for you!!

I am looking at picking 1 or 2 of these up for my children that are now building HT's of their own... (I may have to quit telling people I am only 28... )

If I remember correctly the IN76 only has a one year warranty is that correct?

Have any of you done any "actual" lumen output measurements on your IN76's?

Thanks

HiHoSteve

Yes I have - a complete calibration measurements of IN76 with burned-in lamp.

~20% hit for low power.
~10% hit for white peaking off (not as bad as some BrilliantColor PJ)
<10% hit for burn-in (new case keeps it's cool!)
<10% hit for 6500K preset (much better than most)
<10% for D65/ISF (much better than most)
??% long throw hit over short throw (need to find the F-stops - but it is modest - 20%?)

Assume you are 10% less brite than your SP7210 in other words just as specs would indicate. Lamps could vary as much as 20%...Bottom line - dad gets the 10' screen - kids have to settle for 9.5' screen :D

My particular setup is 635 lumens calibrated at 100hr burn-in - maxed out which was white peaking and native temp in high power with new lamp it hit ~1100 - but that was whatever throw gave me a 2' image at my desk (which I have since rearranged so I can test long/short throw) I think it was more of a long throw - maybe 4' for 2'?

Factory extensions on lamp and PJ warranty are modestly priced.

James

AVS is consulting based sales not transactional sales - they are not click to buy - but most click to buy will not custom order the screen fabric. You might have to try one of the less busy sales to get thru - Jason posts the most so he gets the most calls - did you try Tryg or Daniel who work part-time? Both of them occasionally post to the screen forum. Tryg will try to sell you on a HighPower - stick with HCCV.

On returns Infocus recommends several layers of bubble wrap and a sturdy shipping box with the extra packing materials (peanuts etc.) - you should keep your original box as Infocus will lose it. Your shipper should inspect the packing for shipping insurance reasons anyways. The original box is better suited to shrink wrapped freight pallets not UPS home service. Resellers really should double box the factory box.

HiHoSteve

Yes I have - a complete calibration measurements of IN76 with burned-in lamp.

~20% hit for low power.
~10% hit for white peaking off (not as bad as some BrilliantColor PJ)
<10% hit for burn-in (new case keeps it's cool!)
<10% hit for 6500K preset (much better than most)
<10% for D65/ISF (much better than most)
??% long throw hit over short throw (need to find the F-stops - but it is modest - 20%?)

Assume you are 10% less brite than your SP7210 in other words just as specs would indicate. Lamps could vary as much as 20%...Bottom line - dad gets the 10' screen - kids have to settle for 9.5' screen :D

My particular setup is 635 lumens calibrated at 100hr burn-in - maxed out which was white peaking and native temp in high power with new lamp it hit ~1100 - but that was whatever throw gave me a 2' image at my desk (which I have since rearranged so I can test long/short throw) I think it was more of a long throw - maybe 4' for 2'?

Factory extensions on lamp and PJ warranty are modestly priced.


Thanks as ususal Kevin........

So they should be able to get ~800 lumens in high mode after initial burn in calibrated to D65, with white peaking off, and in high lamp mode... sound about right?

In high lamp how is the sound level compared to my 7210?

Does IF list the prices for EW and bulb warranties on their web site? (must admit I have not looked yet, but am headed there now)

Okay, I'm back...... looks like nobody missed me :-(

Yes IF does list the prices for extended bulb warranties and projector warranties on their web site... it just takes a few clicks to find them!

Much better sounding - more of a pure white noise hiss - but get updated firmware as it was a vaccum cleaner in high power until they fixed it.

Remember YMMV - my lamp was over spec - but I think for Infocus spec is a lower deviation not an average lamp.

Go to the Infocus store for warranties..you can buy anytime before your factory warranty expires, but the lamp warranty extension is for date of purchase of the PJ (or date of purchase of spare lamp) I think since they unified the product numbers you can even buy priority exchange concurrent with your factory warranty (that was not the case with ScreenPlay)

Looks like my typing was just a "touch" faster than yours... :-)

Do you happen to know what the latest firmware is?

I presume whoever I buy them from can check and update them if they do not already have it installed.

Kevin did you come to CES? I might have bumped into you and never known it.. for shame!

Do you have any experience with Elite screens?

They are coming out with a 1.8 gain screen in the next couple of months and it appears to be angular reflective... which would make it interesting for ceiling mounts.... See that way they could have the 10' screen :-)

On returns Infocus recommends several layers of bubble wrap and a sturdy shipping box with the extra packing materials (peanuts etc.) - you should keep your original box as Infocus will lose it. Your shipper should inspect the packing for shipping insurance reasons anyways. The original box is better suited to shrink wrapped freight pallets not UPS home service. Resellers really should double box the factory box.

I bought my IN72 direct from Infocus. It came via UPS but not double boxed!
They can say a lot of things to us regarding how to ship but do they really care when they ship the box? no they dont.

As the manufacturer no doubt the cost of replacing a damaged in freight PJ is cheaper than redesigning everyones box (though the new boxes got rid of nasty styrofoam which I like). I am sure their box meets UPS standards. I just sold some used Thiel speakers - and Thiel has a very impressive box. The shipper still wanted it double boxed because of the high insurance value. Reboxing and shipping those speakers cost me $300 - seller paid $150. Not cheap!

You must have a miserable life Mupi because all of your forum posts are grousing about something. Enough already.

...Or should Infocus make a PJ that needs tweaking so it can have a popular sticky full of newbs saying post yer settings I need help to make this crappy PJ look right.
kras,
You're killing me. :) At least you've been consistent since day one. ;)

As the manufacturer no doubt the cost of replacing a damaged in freight PJ is cheaper than redesigning everyones box (though the new boxes got rid of nasty styrofoam which I like). I am sure their box meets UPS standards. I just sold some used Thiel speakers - and Thiel has a very impressive box. The shipper still wanted it double boxed because of the high insurance value. Reboxing and shipping those speakers cost me $300 - seller paid $150. Not cheap!

You must have a miserable life Mupi because all of your forum posts are grousing about something. Enough already.

I think you should leave that to the Mods to decide and also take your lobbying for infocus off this forum.

Mupi, I would never want to live a day in your shoes. Are you really that miserable?

There are quite a few of us here who distinctly remember your nonstop whining on the older 4805 threads and to put it truthfully, we were quite relieved when your took it back to Costco as then meant we would no longer have to read the ridiculous drivel that emanated from almost every single one of your posts.

And to think that with all of your b!tching and moaning about how lousy Infocus was at this and at that, what do you do, turn right around and buy another Infocus pj and then proceed to b!tch about Infocus yet again. Do everyone here a favor and go buy an Optoma.

Mupi, I would never want to live a day in your shoes. Are you really that miserable?

There are quite a few of us here who distinctly remember your nonstop whining on the older 4805 threads and to put it truthfully, we were quite relieved when your took it back to Costco as then meant we would no longer have to read the ridiculous drivel that emanated from almost every single one of your posts.

And to think that with all of your b!tching and moaning about how lousy Infocus was at this and at that, what do you do, turn right around and buy another Infocus pj and then proceed to b!tch about Infocus yet again. Do everyone here a favor and go buy an Optoma.

stop this nonsense. Like I said let the mods decide if the my posts are miserable.
Yes I will be critical about anything that I feel is not done right just like you keep bitching about my posts. Even if the box is not made well, atleast they should make sure it reaches the customer in good shape.

One more time Infocus: atleast have the UPS guy take a signature so that he doesnt leave the item outside in a bad weather.

and people like Kraz, Smith keep your lobbying crap off this forum and stop
bullying other members. I have the right to post what I want as long as I am not offending anyone. if you read the same remarks in consumer reports I am sure you will not be upset. Just because I bought a Infocus PJ it doesnt mean that I should fall in love with them or suck up to them like you do. They make a fine product but they do have to fill in the holes elsewhere.

and Kraz or rather infocus sucker upper, you want the resellers to double box the item but it is ok if infocus mails a single item in the original box which you said is good only for shrink wrapped freight pallets. Then you also said their box meets UPS standards. Then why the heck do you want the resellers to double box it. isnt that sucking up to infocus. Why do you get upset when all I meant was that they didnt double box the item as a reply to your remark.

Do you double box the item when you have to ship it.

Does AVS double box the item when they ship it.

Get the answers to these and then decide if I was bitching.


BTW I have dealt with ebay and I always double boxed when I shipped and sellers always double boxed. If it is going to cost infocus to double box it, it would also be an additional expense for resellers unless they add that to the S&H.


Like I said stop this kind of nonsense.

First, Mupi, there are no shills for InFocus here, just common sense replies to lots and lots of trash talk. And second, this isn't the first, second or third time that AVS members have requested you tone it down a bit. I can't be any more polite about saying you should take the hint.

I greatly appreciate those people who are involved in the business of installing or designing taking time to post here, it's part of what make AVS unique. A fair critique is also welcomed here, but constant complaining, no thanks. It's the tone of the notes your playing, man..

I too thought the box the IN72 came in seemed light, but then after giving it some thought I figured InFocus must know if their products are being damaged in shipping, and if not, the packing's OK. Let's not forget, this is the PJ bargain of the year (decade?) and if they have to cut a few corners here and there, why complain. I bought an Arcam receiver a few years ago, it was packaged like it had been presented to the Queen. That's a $2000 receiver, probably 4X more expensive than the average receiver, so I expected a higher quality presentation. We're already getting more than what we paid for with the IN72, crappy box, so what?

Infocus box is designed with the proper crush zone - if something happens the box will be crushed but not the PJ - and if it did crush the PJ their insurance will cover the replacement at manufacturer cost. But if you are doing a repair return - it is unlikely your box will make it back without any damage - if you get your box back at all since they have to take the PJ out of the box anyways so it is just a better process to give you a new box. Just be aware for you to get a new box or double box will cost you more shipping money - but I suggest you do it if you are like me and like to keep your factory boxes in good shape for higher resell value.

I don't double box PJs I sell because I DO NOT SELL ONLINE - my PJs are hand carried to your HT and hung on the ceiling and tweaked for hours and I make sure there is not a scratch that gets on it - including shining it up when I am done.

My boxing advice was to Dan (though it is too late to get the original box but someone else will benefit)- who BTW Mupi is a local who did not buy from me - so much for your trolling for sales theory. I am in the HT biz not the PJ biz. I post on here because I enjoy HT and talking with those who enjoy HT, and helping people enjoy their HT. I also post in other PJ threads that I would never sell and help people learn to setup and calibrate them. I also post in the calibration forum so people can learn to DIY calibrate rather than ISF calibrate. I also occasionally post in the DVD forum - despite the fact that I never sell DVDs I just for some reason buy them - maybe because I actually enjoy HT.

Your posts are always about how expensive PJ are yet how cheaply they are made. Why don't you step up and say how much more you are willing to pay for the quality you seem to want? I am sure some manufacturer will step up and make Mupi a PJ he is happy with. Everyone else is tired of it. Just be prepared to pay Runco prices for it - but then you will bitch about them coming only in art deco black or something. The long term members of this thread will make it clear when the thread is straying away no longer being informative - because they would like to continue to subscribe to the thread so they can enjoy the information without it being clogged up with noise. It is self moderating because the mods wield a bigger stick called deleting the thread to solve the problems.

If you have not noticed I have nearly 10000 posts - if the mods had a problem with someone in the biz posting I would have been gone a long long time ago - like many a PJ reseller I can name that don't post here anymore - and not by choice. They know I am not on here trolling for Mupis biz, and bring biz to AVS with my informative posts. In fact didn't I just tell James to buy his screen from AVS and which sales guy to try? If I was trolling for sales don't you think he would be buying it from me instead? And NO I do not receive commissions from AVS - it is just the right thing to do to refer to the hosts since they provide the forum.

My two cents:

IF's standard original boxes and shipping materials inside do leave something to be desired. I remember the first 4805 I got had some tiny plastic shell and nothing more, yet the REFURB I got had a nice, shaped, gigantic foam surrounding it in a box 3X the size of the original. Weird.

When I sold both those units, I didn't do anything to the refurb box other than stick the unit insdie. With the original box, I added a few layers of bubble-wrap simply for support and peace of mind above and below the PJ and it worked great. Either way, it wasn't a big deal.

Personally, I wouldn't mind seeing a nice, soft, custom-shaped/cut foam (not styro) for every unit sold, but the molded plastic they currently use does seem to absorb shocks well enough. Let's not forget that even units on pallets to retailers get moved and jolted around by cranes, planes, trains, trucks, and even people across many miles.

Infocus box is designed with the proper crush zone - if something happens the box will be crushed but not the PJ - and if it did crush the PJ their insurance will cover the replacement at manufacturer cost. But if you are doing a repair return - it is unlikely your box will make it back without any damage - if you get your box back at all since they have to take the PJ out of the box anyways so it is just a better process to give you a new box. Just be aware for you to get a new box or double box will cost you more shipping money - but I suggest you do it if you are like me and like to keep your factory boxes in good shape for higher resell value.

I don't double box PJs I sell because I DO NOT SELL ONLINE - my PJs are hand carried to your HT and hung on the ceiling and tweaked for hours and I make sure there is not a scratch that gets on it - including shining it up when I am done.

My boxing advice was to Dan (though it is too late to get the original box but someone else will benefit)- who BTW Mupi is a local who did not buy from me - so much for your trolling for sales theory. I am in the HT biz not the PJ biz. I post on here because I enjoy HT and talking with those who enjoy HT, and helping people enjoy their HT. I also post in other PJ threads that I would never sell and help people learn to setup and calibrate them. I also post in the calibration forum so people can learn to DIY calibrate rather than ISF calibrate. I also occasionally post in the DVD forum - despite the fact that I never sell DVDs I just for some reason buy them - maybe because I actually enjoy HT.

Your posts are always about how expensive PJ are yet how cheaply they are made. Why don't you step up and say how much more you are willing to pay for the quality you seem to want? I am sure some manufacturer will step up and make Mupi a PJ he is happy with. Everyone else is tired of it. Just be prepared to pay Runco prices for it - but then you will bitch about them coming only in art deco black or something. The long term members of this thread will make it clear when the thread is straying away no longer being informative - because they would like to continue to subscribe to the thread so they can enjoy the information without it being clogged up with noise. It is self moderating because the mods wield a bigger stick called deleting the thread to solve the problems.

If you have not noticed I have nearly 10000 posts - if the mods had a problem with someone in the biz posting I would have been gone a long long time ago - like many a PJ reseller I can name that don't post here anymore - and not by choice. They know I am not on here trolling for Mupis biz, and bring biz to AVS with my informative posts. In fact didn't I just tell James to buy his screen from AVS and which sales guy to try? If I was trolling for sales don't you think he would be buying it from me instead? And NO I do not receive commissions from AVS - it is just the right thing to do to refer to the hosts since they provide the forum.


I dont care who you are and what you do or how many posts you have. I dont want you or any one else to tell me what to post. Leave that to the Mods. I am in no way hindering the business to AVS. You dont work for Infocus nor Smith nor Martin and you are not the Infocus spokes person. So leave it to Infocus whether they want to listen to the critical remarks or ignore them. This is a free forum with freedom of speech. I will stand by my posts as long as the mods dont have a problem with them. I dont have to succum to the bullying of people like you or smith or martin.

If the mods consider my one line post about shipping as a miserable trolling, they can remove it and also all the nasty posts by you people about me.

next time dont be a judge of my posts. again leave it to the mods. I have never trash talked about anyone. My posts are just crital remarks. I do have positive posts about 4805 and IN72. If you dont have the ear or eye for critical remarks about products you love or companies you are loyal to, just dont see/hear them.

If people didnt troll about the fan noise and projector dying, Infocus wouldnt have
given any firmware upgrades or added a 2A fuse.

If there is a product there will be critics.

The mods can review my posts in the last few months and if they feel that I am miserable I would be glad to leave.

BTW I dont think my one line post is going to make this thread stray away. It is your nasty post about me and also by Smith and Martin that has started a fire. So dont put the blame
on me. If you didnt get all fired up about the one line I posted there wouldnt be any straying.

Like I said dont be an Infocus police. Leave it to the mods to decide if a post is a threat to the thread or not.

omg, i get sick for 2 days and look at all the fun i've missed. thanks for making this the best lunch at my desk since i can remember. :)

i think i'm really feeling better now!

There is a difference between constructive criticism and whining - maybe someday Mupi will learn what that is.

You can follow billymacs example - his failed for the fuse issue - and he did not whine about it. Rather people helped him work thru the return experience -and now he helps others work thru the return experience so their experience is positive.

Saying you might want to double box or new box a return is very different than saying Infocus is cheap because they don't care about Mupi. That is whining not constructive. Nor is this a free speech forum. It is a support forum run by a business with paying members and paying advertisers with rules for posting conduct. - because the owners know paying members/advertisers will leave if the forum is a bunch of noisy whiners.

There is a difference between constructive criticism and whining - maybe someday Mupi will learn what that is.

You can follow billymacs example - his failed for the fuse issue - and he did not whine about it. Rather people helped him work thru the return experience -and now he helps others work thru the return experience so their experience is positive.

Saying you might want to double box or new box a return is very different than saying Infocus is cheap because they don't care about Mupi. That is whining not constructive. Nor is this a free speech forum. It is a support forum run by a business with paying members and paying advertisers with rules for posting conduct. - because the owners know paying members/advertisers will leave if the forum is a bunch of noisy whiners.

I have not violated any rules and you are unnecessarily dragging this issue.
Who is making this thread stray?

Like I said leave it up to the mods to decide. If you are contributing to the forum good. we all know that. Dont go bragging about it and dont expect accolades from everyone for every line you post. Be humble and philanthropic.

If the forum is open to the public and it is free then there should be freedom of speech. No rules were violated, no one got offended. What is your freaking problem.

Lets just end this and let the thread take it usual course.

Like I said before let the mods make the decision. Your are here only to support not to police others. leave that to the mods. Like I said if the mods feel my posts make the threads stray and I am miserable, I would be glad to be a spectator.

No more posts on this issue. This issue is closed.

Well, first of all politely asking you to chill is far from bullying. Second of all, we're called "members" for a good reason, most of us adhere to an unwritten general agreement of common courtesy and consideration. Just because Mods don't step in on an issue doesn't mean anything goes. Frankly Mupi, I do find your posts occasionally offensive, and I'm obviously not alone here. Again,why not take the hint and think a bit more about what you're saying before speading more bad vibes. Now, this issue is closed, for me at least.

Hopefully we can get back to our regularly scheduled thread, please.

i'm upgrading my in76 to current firmware this weekend. :) cross your fingers. :)

it's a big jump. like 3 or 4 versions. i'm pretty sure i've got a 1 amp fuse. i bought it when it first came out last year. :)

got burn that puppy out before april. :D

i wish i could make it work upstairs. i have to get a bigger screen. going to order a custom da-lite 100"'er so i can just squeak it out at 14.25'. then i'll put my 72 downstairs and give it a rest.

happy friday :)

I'm curious how it goes for you billymac, I'm a week or two away from trying my first firmware upgrade myself. Good luck.

I just got my cables from MonoPrice today, so now I'm working on courage. I, like Martin, am anxious to hear how it goes with you billymac. If you can reveal any specifics (as you upgraded) that would be great!
Any unwritten information or unexpected turns/twists we need to be aware of?
What is the latest firmware upgrade now?
When you upgrade do you have to do each upgrade separately or can you skip directly to the latest and skip the ones in between?
Seems to me the latest upgrade would include all previous upgrades. Guess I need to check out the InFocus site (it's been a while) and do some research.
Let us know how it goes. Good luck!!
Thanks-

James, the latest upgrades DO include previous ones.

I just got my cables from MonoPrice today, so now I'm working on courage. I, like Martin, am anxious to hear how it goes with you billymac. If you can reveal any specifics (as you upgraded) that would be great!
Any unwritten information or unexpected turns/twists we need to be aware of?
What is the latest firmware upgrade now?
When you upgrade do you have to do each upgrade separately or can you skip directly to the latest and skip the ones in between?
Seems to me the latest upgrade would include all previous upgrades. Guess I need to check out the InFocus site (it's been a while) and do some research.
Let us know how it goes. Good luck!!
Thanks-

James,
Hope you don't mind me jumping in. I been flashing firmware updates for pcs as well as my first Infocus X1. Never had a problem...but, you must follow the directions to the letter. One thing that caught me off guard, when my first projector flash paused because Windows couldn't find the USB driver. Since then, the Firmware Upgrade process has been improved and is more user friendly. Again, I stress the importance of reading the directions that are included with the Firmware update files that are unzipped to the PC's hard drive
Default is
C:\IN72\v2.8
FlashUSBll.exe
IN72.did
IN72_App_Infocus_v28.he_
IN72_CLI.html
Upgrading IN7x Software.pdf
Of course, the firmware you download may vary by Infocus Model or Firmware version
.pdf attached for your info
Lastly, you only have to connect the M1 end to projector and USB to PC...either Desktop or Laptop with USB input and Windows OS.

yeah it isn't rocket science. the only reason i'm chickin' is because i think i'm going to blow a fuse. actually, i'm kind of hoping i do. :)

anyway, i'll post back. but i'm sure it's all good. in76 has been neglected at 250.

cheers

James,
Hope you don't mind me jumping in.
Jump in anytime. Good information. The attachment really helps too. I already feel more confident. If my new MonoPrice cables fit I might download today!
Thanks--

Firmware installed. Everything A-OK! Didn't go like clock work but IN76 menu says 2.6 firmware. Internet explorer couldn't handle something during the process. Only way out was to send microsoft a report and reboot computer. No instructions here-just wing it! Rebooted, light off on projector. No response. Went back through process again. Nothing. Unplugged the projector, re-plugged it, "Connected..." Hit download, a few minutes later job done. A little scary!
Thanks for the encouragement guys-it definitely helped.

Firmware installed. Everything A-OK! Didn't go like clock work but IN76 menu says 2.6 firmware. Internet explorer couldn't handle something during the process. Only way out was to send microsoft a report and reboot computer. No instructions here-just wing it! Rebooted, light off on projector. No response. Went back through process again. Nothing. Unplugged the projector, re-plugged it, "Connected..." Hit download, a few minutes later job done. A little scary!
Thanks for the encouragement guys-it definitely helped.

whew....now take a deep breath and relax...'til next firmware update..

I have had a 4805 for over two years and just upgraded to a used IN76. The 4805 has about 1500 hours, and the IN76 has about 1000.

We had a houseful of guys today to watch the NFL games. We watched the first game on the 4805 and the second game on the IN76. Viewing was complete light control, black / dark burgundy walls, 87" HCCV screen. Both units were max distance, min zoom. To offset the difference in lumens slightly we had the IN76 shooting a somewhat larger picture, going nearly to the outside of the 3.25" border on all sides... probably equivalent to a 94" diagonal. The IN76 was still brighter, but we were comparing the pictures serially, not side by side. Both connections were digital, 720p input to the 4805, 1080i input to the IN76. (4805 had basic calibration with DVE and the magic Bob DVI gain and offset values. IN76 was left at default values (e.g., "50") across the board. Both set to 6500 with white peaking off.)

Interestingly, those who aren't all that familiar projection said the 4805 picture was stunning and questioned how the IN76 could be an improvement. That opinion changed quickly when the IN76 picture went up and came into focus. Everyone was blown away by the difference. Obviously the improvement in resolution was key, very evident in onscreen text and graphics. From the front row, 12.5' from the screen, slightly detectable pixilation and screen door went away entirely, even with the increased brightness. In addition, the black level seemed very close - perhaps slightly brighter - while the picture was significantly brighter overall, supporting the improved contrast specs. The colors are fabulous on both projectors, so I cannot say there is any improvement there. In summary, based on this crowd's reaction, it is not a minor upgrade. As the fine points of an image improve an image takes on more realness and depth. One person said that the IN76 was like looking through a window at the game rather than watching a telecast of the game. I completely agree with that assessment.

I plan to go up to another homemade screen (still choosing the fabric). It will be 102" diagonal to fit the room perfectly. This should be a great size for a vibrant picture with the brightness of the IN76. If anyone has had outstanding results with a certain fabric at/near this size (100"-105") in a completely light controlled room, I am happy to hear suggestions. I may consider ND2 filter for movies, no filter for HD sports.

Nice post jhopman. If only I'd found an IN76 in the $1200 range I might have made the jump from my 4805, but the special deal on the IN72 was too good to pass up. After selling my 4805 for $300 to a friend who would only be using it occasionally, the switch was actually less expensive than a new bulb for the 4805 would have been. Still, I'd love to at least have 720p to down-rez an HD DVD or Blu-Ray to. Maybe by the time I'm ready there'll be a 1080 pj at the price of a 720 PJ now! :)

I am a frugal, shoestring-budget audio and video junkie. A contradiction in terms perhaps...

By building your own screens and buying used projectors (not to mention audio equipment), you can get much better performance for the dollar. This upgrade will only cost ~$650 if I stick with Da-Lite fabric. Great bang for the buck, and with any luck I will have been in this projector viewing project for 4-5 years before having to replace a bulb. :)

I was fortunate to find a friend of a friend who wanted to buy the whole package (4805+screen+mount+filter) at a fair price for both of us.

Does any one know if the IN76 would be an inprovment over the 7205. I am looking for a new projector that is still very bright and has HDMI on it. I have been very happy with my infocus 7205 but just does not have HDMI.

Firmware is up to 2.6 on the IN76? They just fixed mine two weeks ago and they put 2.5 on there! That was fast!

I don't have the M1 - USB cable unfortunately...

Well it is on its way (Well kind of). I have the 3 year Priority Exchange Ext. Warrenty and let them put a hold on my card for a advanced replacement.

Called today, should ship tomorrow and they said in was one day shipping to Texas.

Although it took me several trys to get someone on the phone that new what was going on. First they said it would be 15 business days on the repair. Next call was that it was going to cost me $99 for a priority exchange. Then finally someone in India that new what was going on. Only had about 200 hours on my machine/bulb, so I may get something with more hours, but the good thin about it is that it must be as good or better quality than what I sent in...

I will take pics of what I sent and pics of what I get in case there are any issues.

Will let you know what firmware is installed...

Does any one know if the IN76 would be an inprovment over the 7205. I am looking for a new projector that is still very bright and has HDMI on it. I have been very happy with my infocus 7205 but just does not have HDMI.

From everything I have read there is not much difference between the 7205 and IN76 pictures, certainly not enough to merit upgrading for the sake of picture quality. The IN76 may even be a slight step backward in picture quality. Aside from the extra digital input, the one reason to upgrade would be that the IN76 is considerably quieter in terms of fan and color wheel noise. Well, and it looks a lot sexier, which my wife was quick to appreciate.