Does any one know if the IN76 would be an inprovment over the 7205. I am looking for a new projector that is still very bright and has HDMI on it. I have been very happy with my infocus 7205 but just does not have HDMI.

No, roughly the same picture. I like the IN76 marginally better, others say the opposite, but they're about the same. The IN78, however, *is* a nice upgrade. Not dramatic, but nice.

Really John........

I went back and forth between the 76 and 78 at CES and I really could not tell much if any difference..........

No, roughly the same picture. I like the IN76 marginally better, others say the opposite, but they're about the same. The IN78, however, *is* a nice upgrade. Not dramatic, but nice.

Maybe i will just wait and get a new 1080p projector when they come down in price.

I just recently purchased the IN72 over X-mas. It replaced my 4805. But what I really wanted to purchase was a HiDef projector either Mits HD1000u or Optoma HD70. Now that I have it is truly an upgrade from the 4805, although a slight upgrade, but I am regretting not getting what I truly wanted which was the HiDef Projector. I am contemplating selling the IN72 and getting the Mits HD1000u. Has anyone here made the change?

I sent my IN72 rebate form to InFocus around 3 1/2 weeks ago. Just called to check on the status and they still haven't gotten me into their system. They promised an email when it is logged in. Has anyone here gotten such an email? Also, has anyone gotten their rebate? I'm a little anxious since I bought mine from AVS but didn't pay InFocus' online price.

Does any one know if the IN76 would be an inprovment over the 7205. I am looking for a new projector that is still very bright and has HDMI on it. I have been very happy with my infocus 7205 but just does not have HDMI.

Infocus sells HDMI adaptors for the M1DA port. Then you just need adjust the RGB gains/offsets to 66/39 to change from PC to video levels. The SP7205 also has the darker green segment on the colorwheel that gives better black detail.

The IN76 just gives you the actual HDMI port and automatic level changes - if you want two HDMI ports you get the adaptor.

Infocus sells HDMI adaptors for the M1DA port. Then you just need adjust the RGB gains/offsets to 66/39 to change from PC to video levels. The SP7205 also has the darker green segment on the colorwheel that gives better black detail.

The IN76 just gives you the actual HDMI port and automatic level changes - if you want two HDMI ports you get the adaptor.

Kevin, do the 66/39 changes only need to be made if you are using the M1 port on the IN76?

No that was for the SP7205 - you may have to select RGB PC or RGB Video colorspace on the IN76 if it does not automatically detect.

Thanks Kevin, I use the 66/39 as a starting point on my 7210 to adjust and it looks pretty good (not professional, but pretty nice). From there just a few small changes in the user controls brought it in pretty well.

I was curious if Bob's magic numbers needed to be applied to the In76 as well if you use the M1 input.

thanks for answering

Thanks Kevin, I use the 66/39 as a starting point on my 7210 to adjust and it looks pretty good

Sorry for the noob question but what does that mean?

With HDMI connection my IN76 seems very dark. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

With HDMI connection my IN76 seems very dark. Have you CALIBRATED it with Avia, DVE or even THX Optimizer?

Have you CALIBRATED it with Avia, DVE or even THX Optimizer?

No I haven't. If I was going to purchase one of those which would you recommend?

Thanks.

If I was going to purchase one of those which would you recommend?You probably already have THX Optimizer ... it is included on all THX movies. Check the menu of one of them. It may not be perfect but it will certainly put you in the ball park!

As to a comparison of all of the calibration disks, post your request to the calibration forum.

Sorry for the noob question but what does that mean?

With HDMI connection my IN76 seems very dark. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

These are gains/offset settings that are apparently only applicable to the 7200, 7205, & 7210 projectors.

Called today, should ship tomorrow and they said in was one day shipping to Texas.


Came home on the 23rd and it was on my porch. WOW they were not supposed to ship until today...

Plain brown box. Nice Packing. Will be sending my broken one back in the same container.

Had to watch the kids tonight, so could not hook it up. Will do the work tomorrow...

Overal satisfied with Turn-around, but the Tech support people seem worthless, for the most part, unless you get lucky and can get someone to understand you and you understand them...

I am beginning to feel like I need a bulb replacement. It is appreciably darker for me. I don't know how much it should dim, but it feels dark to me. I have less than 500 hours on the bulb and it is under 6 months. Do I have any leg to stand on with a dealer? This would definitely be subjective, but the darkness does bother me. Is there a decent place to order a replacement bulb online? How much will I be needing to spend.

I have less than 500 hours on the bulb and it is under 6 months.The warranty is 500hrs or 6mo!! :eek:

I would get on the phone to InFocus customer support toute suite!! :cool:

I just (about 2 weeks ago) received my IN76 back from Infocus for a power on issue (1 AMP Fuse?). Tonight, while watching a DVD, the picture turned off, I looked up above and seen an ember fly out of the unit. I moved my two daughters (who were sitting directly underneath), unplugged the unit, and turned on the light. Smoke was bellowing out of the side vent and it looked like a small fire inside. Enough smoke came out, it filled the room.

What the??????????????????

I spent $48 to return the unit, now I have a fried projector? Super Bowl Sunday, well... it is SUNDAY!

Man, this is exactly why I am having a hard time going for the IN76. Looks like the Mits 3100 is still on if I can get it in the USA.

Heboil

Be aware that lamps have exponential decay - it is their very nature. Lamp life is the rated 50% point - YMMV as that is an average. I have measured as much as 25% drop in as little as hundred hours. Exponential decay means it drops out very fast - in other words you will never achieve the 25% point at half the time of the lamp life spec, it is much much earlier. This needs accounted for with your dealer when selecting the right screen size/gain.

Infocus is fairly flexible as long as you are within the lamp warranty so call them. But it is wise if your dealer has the ability to measure new vs. old - that you get some data.

Kras,

Any input on what is going on with my projector?

Tonight, while watching a DVD, the picture turned off, I looked up above and seen an ember fly out of the unit. I moved my two daughters (who were sitting directly underneath), unplugged the unit, and turned on the light. Smoke was bellowing out of the side vent and it looked like a small fire inside. Enough smoke came out, it filled the room.

Kras,

Any input on what is going on with my projector?
I'm not kras, but I'd say your PJ caught on fire from a foreign material in proximity to the lamp. While that certainly is a bummer in regard to the Superbowl and the $48 for shipping you spent sucks, it's far better than superburning your daughters and $48,000 in medical expenses! :eek: Count your blessings and send the unit back to IF with a full description of what happened.

No doubt there is no comparison between a tangible object and ANY harm which may happen to my girls.

Maybe it was a foreign substance which damaged my projector, maybe INFOCUS wired it wrong. Who knows. I just dread the frustration of dealing with the argument I will have to undertake tomorrow. Total frustration.

No doubt there is no comparison between a tangible object and ANY harm which may happen to my girls.

Maybe it was a foreign substance which damaged my projector, maybe INFOCUS wired it wrong. Who knows. I just dread the frustration of dealing with the argument I will have to undertake tomorrow. Total frustration.

sorry to hear the news .



I hope all goes well.

cheers

I just dread the frustration of dealing with the argument I will have to undertake tomorrow...
IF should simply be happy you're not suing their pants off. Take some digital photos of the pj and smoke or any other damages. I'd be shocked if you don't get a new unit shipped out via next day air.

IF should simply be happy you're not suing their pants off. Take some digital photos of the pj and smoke or any other damages. I'd be shocked if you don't get a new unit shipped out via next day air.
Amen!... All legal options should be exhausted on this one. It is incomprehensible that Infocus can implement a "fix on fail" only policy with an issue that they clearly know exists. Sure would like to know why a recall can't be enforced...

Amen!... All legal options should be exhausted on this one. It is incomprehensible that Infocus can implement a "fix on fail" only policy with an issue that they clearly know exists. Sure would like to know why a recall can't be enforced...


My thoughts exactly .

There is no reason a class action law suite has yet to be filled.

As I has stated before. infocus shows fault by updating the one amp fuse to the 2amp . There are plenty in this forum alone that can supply evidence of 1 amp fuse failure .( no to mention possible fire starting from this defective product ) .
A Class action law suit is very inexpensive as the legal fees are paid at time of settlement .This class action is so simple ( basically a open shut case ) I would think lawyers would be lining up to send INFOCUS the proper paper work.

Hello all.

I´ve been following this thread for quite a while now but never posted, in fact it´s my first post ever on avs :)

There seems to be some debate about whether or not the blown fuse problem is related to later versions of firmware.

Well mine blew today. I still had the original firmware (april 2006) so I guess firmware doesn´t really matter...

Had it running in high lamp mode for a while because of some lamp flicker in low mode (I Had to do that twice before), switched back to low mode and few minutes later it just died... no led´s, no fan´s , no anything. :(

Does anybody know what damage could have been done by the sudden shutdown? The projector was running for +/- 2 hours when it died.

Have you tried unplugging the projector, leaving it unplugged for a little while, then plug back in. Mine dies whenever I try to leave the high power setting. Went there for the same reason, flicker, and every time I swap back it dies. Scared me bad the first time. But will run fine in high power, but noisy. Guess its about time to call Infocus.

Hey guys and gals... Just lost the bulb at 3200 hours on my 4805... 200 more clams and get the updated IN72... So tell me 4805 old timers what can I expect... You have made the move what am I going to notice...

Michiman,

Check out my post from a few days ago in:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=724248

I like the upgrade so far.

Have you tried unplugging the projector, leaving it unplugged for a little while, then plug back in. Mine dies whenever I try to leave the high power setting. Went there for the same reason, flicker, and every time I swap back it dies. Scared me bad the first time. But will run fine in high power, but noisy. Guess its about time to call Infocus.

I tried it again the next day...didn´t even give a bleep. I´m pretty sure its the fuse problem. I´ve returned it for repair that afternoon.

The sound in high power is really annoying when watching movies and if it dies without a proper cool down it can´t be good for your bulb. I wouldn´t wait with calling infocus.

Thanks, the noise has got annoying. Wanted to wait till after the Superbowl. Guess its time ..........

Do any of you guys know of a scaler and anamorphic lens combination that you currently feel sure about with BR and HD DVDs as well as regular DVDs, HD Sat., and HD TV and all their various ARs. I am using an IN76 projecting onto a 14' 5"x 6' 6" wall area which will include any frame, masking, and/or pulled pack curtains. I want to go with as large a 2:35 or 2:40 CIH screen (maybe curved) as possible. Can't decide whether to go ahead with the DIY screen before the scaler/lens or wait on the screen until I get the scaler and lens purchase (could be a long time at the prices I've seen).

Do any of you guys know of a scaler and anamorphic lens combination that you currently feel sure about with BR and HD DVDs as well as regular DVDs, HD Sat., and HD TV and all their various ARs. I am using an IN76 projecting onto a 14' 5"x 6' 6" wall area which will include any frame, masking, and/or pulled pack curtains. I want to go with as large a 2:35 or 2:40 CIH screen (maybe curved) as possible. Can't decide whether to go ahead with the DIY screen before the scaler/lens or wait on the screen until I get the scaler and lens purchase (could be a long time at the prices I've seen).
That's too bold a question to answer. ;)

Just to update...I had posted that I was noticing a drop in brightness over the last months...enough so that I was posting about it. On Thursday, my picture seemed to lose its 3D pop (if that makes sense)...it became a very flat looking image. Tonight, I was running the projector, and I went into the kitchen for an hour or so while it was still running and I came back and it was off. No power...won't turn on. Dead...with the len exposed because it died while it was on. I have already packaged it up. We'll see what happens now.

I just (about 2 weeks ago) received my IN76 back from Infocus for a power on issue (1 AMP Fuse?). Tonight, while watching a DVD, the picture turned off, I looked up above and seen an ember fly out of the unit. I moved my two daughters (who were sitting directly underneath), unplugged the unit, and turned on the light. Smoke was bellowing out of the side vent and it looked like a small fire inside. Enough smoke came out, it filled the room.

An update. Infocus said their engineers wanted to see my projector. Infocus paid for the shipping and replaced my damaged unit with a new (not refurbished) unit and a new warranty. Even with the problems of returning my unit twice, I am still satisfied with the performance of the projector and with the customer service. I just hopes this one lasts for a while. Maybe I will sell and upgrade before the warranty period ends.....

:) I am glad to hear positive things about InFocus, the IN76, and their service department. I have 378 hours on my IN76 bulb. I also noticed it darkening at about 300 hours. I just hope it hangs in there. I definitely would purchase an InFocus projector again (1080p) if the picture is proportionally better at 1080p as the IN76 is at 720p and if they were to respond in the manner mentioned above and replace In76 while under warranty, if it goes out, with a new one. :)

Just to update...I had posted that I was noticing a drop in brightness over the last months...enough so that I was posting about it. On Thursday, my picture seemed to lose its 3D pop (if that makes sense)...it became a very flat looking image. Tonight, I was running the projector, and I went into the kitchen for an hour or so while it was still running and I came back and it was off. No power...won't turn on. Dead...with the len exposed because it died while it was on. I have already packaged it up. We'll see what happens now.
How many hours on your bulb? Was it your first bulb on this projector?
How many hours did you have on your first projector? Was it on its first bulb?

An update. Infocus said their engineers wanted to see my projector...
Oh yeah...the infamous firework pj. :eek: Thanks for the update. No doubt IF wanted your unit to destroy the evidence. Congrats on the new replacement...don't let your girls sit under it from now on, just in case. ;)

How many hours on your bulb? Was it your first bulb on this projector?
How many hours did you have on your first projector? Was it on its first bulb?

I had 450 hours on it. First bulb. I did the firmware upgrade which really quieted it down. However, I have been noticing a decrease in brightness for months. From my other friends who talked to me about their projectors, they weren't noticing a drop in brightness over the first year. It was so gradual they couldn't see it. I could notice it dropping for months though...so maybe that was the telltale sign, or maybe I am just extra perceptive. Who knows. I'll keep you informed as to what happens from here.

Oh yeah...the infamous firework pj. :eek: Thanks for the update. No doubt IF wanted your unit to destroy the evidence. Congrats on the new replacement...don't let your girls sit under it from now on, just in case. ;)

LOL!!

I need some help guys. My M1 input on my IN72 works fine. I've been using DVI to DVI plus the M1 to DVI adapter. My new cable box has HDMI, so I added an HDMI to DVI adapter at the Cable box end to the aformentioned set up and get no picture. I'm fairly certain the adapter is OK also. What's going on?

I wanted to finish the thread to make sure my question wasn't redundant, but I haven't quite made it yet. Forgive me if this is a repeat:

Can I ceiling mount my in72 if the screen is over 12ft away and almost flush with the ceiling? The little I've read about offset suggests I can't, but when I hold the projector to the ceiling with my hands I can get the top of the image flush. Is keystoning what I'm ignoring here?

BTW-- threads like these are why I marvel at the Internet-- all my dad had was Consumer Reports!

Cheers,
Ari

I wanted to finish the thread to make sure my question wasn't redundant, but I haven't quite made it yet. Forgive me if this is a repeat:

Can I ceiling mount my in72 if the screen is over 12ft away and almost flush with the ceiling? The little I've read about offset suggests I can't, but when I hold the projector to the ceiling with my hands I can get the top of the image flush. Is keystoning what I'm ignoring here?

BTW-- threads like these are why I marvel at the Internet-- all my dad had was Consumer Reports!

Cheers,
Ari

yes, keystoning. If the image looks square to you then all is good. Though I would think you would have to hit the keystone adjust a bit. All depends on how much height the screen/image is going to be.

If any of you guys have used a good calibration disc or had your IN76 calibrated by a professional I would really appreciate your posting your different calibrations here so we can compare. My calibrations currently are:
Picture Menu
Contrast 58
Brightness 47
Color 74
Gamma (film)
White peaking 50
Advanced
Film mode (checked)
Sharpness (sharper)
Color space (auto checked)
Color temperature (native)
Color control (not marked if set to 50)
Red Gain 40
Green Gain 53
Blue Gain 44
Noise Reduction (enabled level 50)
Used THX Calibration Disc then changed for my taste, almost. It's a little dark and bright on some material. If anything is missing I'll be glad to add if asked.
Do any of you guys have the blue lens glasses needed for the THX Video Calibrations? Anyone know where you can get them. Their website store is under reconstruction. Hope you will post if you have a IN76 so we can compare.

The fuse blew on my IN76. I've had the service call in since Monday afternoon and even called Tech Support yesterday morning and faxed my receipt in at about 12 and I've yet to hear anything back about the shipping details.

James and any other wannabe calibrators....

These adjustments are there because sources vary from the reference - even digital sources are screwed up. You must have a calibration DVD or a test pattern channel to adjust them. Noone elses settings will be valid - you will more than likely make yours worse by using someone elses numbers.

Contrast
Brightness
Color


Film has been found to match the mastering standard of 2.22 - though the others you may prefer in your room - focus on black detail vs. midrange contrast.

Gamma (film)


This should always be set to 0. While it increases the marketing spec numbers - it does so by blowing out your gamma curve and making colors pale and dim w.r.t. white.

White peaking


This controls the deinterlacer - auto is better if you watch TV. If you have films that get tripped up in deinterlacing - forcing it like you did is OK.

Film mode


normal sharpness is correct with a reference generator source, sharper adds serious edge enhancement artifacts

Sharpness


Some sources may require manual selection to get B&W levels and colors interpreted properly.

Color space (auto checked)


This selection is not the D65 standard, use 6500K or whites and the secondary color gamut will be shifted blue-green. This is the marketed setting to increase specs.

Color temperature (native)


These are there for your specific lamp which varies in burn-in. I guarantee without proper test sensors you will make it worse rather than better because Infocus did a better job than you can on the new lamp. Someone elses settings will likely make it worse not better - especially if you copy numbers from someone who has no clue what they are for and how to properly calibrate with sensors. Even if you copied numbers from one that I calibrated - your lamp is different and my numbers would make yours worse. This is why calibrators never publish their numbers - if the job was that easy - they could phone it in and never leave the house.

Color control
Red Gain
Green Gain
Blue Gain


If you have detailed test patterns with motion you find these smears - leave it off

Noise Reduction (enabled level 50)



Learning what these presets are, what they do, what patterns to use, what test equipment is needed is calibrating. Copying numbers from internet posts is not calibrating - it is making it worse. Learn to calibrate if you want to enjoy your projector even more - chasing the tweak numbers of the week in hopes someone magically hits on numbers that make your lamp/sources be calibrated will have you churning PJs for longer than humanity has been searching for the holy grail.

Get down Kras!

Copying numbers from internet posts is not calibrating - it is making it worse...
Don't you need the HD70 to join that club? ;)

It's now Thursday, four days after I filed the claim, and they just acknowledged it and said another 24-48 hours before I get instructions on how to send it back.

Does the IN76 accept 1080p/24 over HDMI? Page 35 of the reference manual indicates that it accepts 1080p/24 only over component. Can anyone confirm/comment?

It's now Thursday, four days after I filed the claim, and they just acknowledged it and said another 24-48 hours before I get instructions on how to send it back.


Sent you a PM NoThru.....

I finally got the RMA information tonight, right after the UPS store closed. Of course, my projector blows up on a holiday and then they send the RMA info right as the bell rings for the weekend. Ahzroe was very helpful, but I don't know if his advice had anything to do with the timing of the RMA e-mail. Here's to hoping the next step is quick and I have my projector back by the end of next week, but I doubt it.

NoTru22, InFocus generally has very consistant repair times. Usually it's back to you in two weeks. Perhaps not as quick as we all wish it was, but truly, not bad at all, especially when compared to some companies.

Hi all,

after 716 hours on the lamp my trusty In76 went dead. No LED nothing. Having read this thread since I bought it in July I just knew it was the fuse. I checked the fuse afer 5 minutes trying to find it and sure enough it had blown. So a BIG THANK YOU to billymac and Hightechredneck for their postings on fixing the problem. It was a 1A glass type fuse. I managed to pry out the broken one and insert a 2A. I thought this would be a better idea than having to trail wires. 20 minutes later my PJ is back up and running.

Cheers guys

Don

:)

Two weeks after they get it? If this whole process takes three weeks, I'm far from impressed.

[QUOTE=krasmuzik]James and any other wannabe calibrators....QUOTE]
Hey krasmuzik,
Right now, I have no desire to be a professional calibrator. It's just the newness of having my first projector. Like you said, just figuring out which adjustment does what visually. I just went through one of my DVDs that has THX "calibration" procedures. I felt it helped but was somewhat oversaturated although I kind of like that. Don't have and can't find the blue glasses they require for adjusting the blue fields. Know where I can pick up some? The THX website is under re-construction. Found one pair on eBay but they are 2.0. Not sure if that is good for HD or what the different versions are. Any info. here? I felt good that as a newbe I felt comfortable with the things you addressed. I have written my settings down and am just fine with what I see. I go back to them unless I find settings I like better but I keep them all with descriptions of each with bulb hours. I realize someone's settings will not, more than likely, improve my images but you never win the lottery w/o playing. I'm just having fun with my new toy. You're absolutely correct about making things worse. After adjusting my IN76 according to a couple of your comments I feel my images are improved. Do the calibration discs sold here and elsewhere take into consideration bulb hours or are they pretty much worthless for us amateurs? If they work which one/s would you suggest? One other question. As the bulb ages am I supposed to continue using the original settings or are there settings somewhere that coincide with the number of hours of usage? I'm pretty much eyeballing it now. New bulb=go back to original settings? Thanks for the help.

I have a room that is 22ft L x 12ft5 W x 7ft5 H. I have looked at the specs on a lot of projectors and would really like to get the Infocus IN76. My concern is that my ceiling height is too low for this projector. I intend to mount the pj at 14' from a 106" 16:9 screen.

With two rows of seats I need the screen to 30 inches off the floor. With the lens offset of 16% with this projector I will need the screen top to be a min of 14" from the ceiling for the image to hit the center of the screen. In short, I am going to need to tilt the projector to get the image up about 6 to 10" and will have to use keystone to correct it. Do you think that this is going to degrade the image too much?

The Infocus IN76 is my first choice, but if it doesn't' work out because of ceiling height I may have to buy my second choice which is the Hitachi HDPJ52 LCD projector (with a ton of lens shift available).

Do the calibration discs sold here and elsewhere take into consideration bulb hours or are they pretty much worthless for us amateurs? If they work which one/s would you suggest?

I purchased DVE and it comes with the colour filters needed for calibration. I found it useful and interesting. As far as calibration goes, once you know how to use the test patterns etc it’s reasonably straightforward. Now I'm no professional, but I think I've got a great picture and am very happy.

You don't need blue glasses to calibrate color/tint - go to the service menu and invoke the blue only mode.

Red push changes in the first 100hrs so you will want to recheck then.


For the most basic DVD I would get ISF/Monster DVD as it helps you learn why you calibrate and what real images look like when you do - it does not have tint - but look at the pool balls instead. Since it uses test image rather than patterns this is one that has WAF. Sound and Visions DVD is an easier version of AVIA. DVE has its fans - I don't like the menus. I use AVIA PRO and HD pattern generators. I don't care for the THX patterns - while free - they have been shown to vary with each DVD - and color/tint is harder to see in their pattern - though their THX drop shadow is good for brightness.

Each source will vary - so use the setting memories if you have sources connected with a switcher.

I am going to need to tilt the projector to get the image up about 6 to 10" and will have to use keystone to correct it. Do you think that this is going to degrade the image too much?Yes. :(

You don't need blue glasses to calibrate color/tint - go to the service menu and invoke the blue only mode.

Oh, that's cool. I never tried that one, but I did try the "test pattern" item and nothing seemed to happen. Do you know what that one is for?

~ Kiran <entropy@io.com>

test pattern enables your custom button on the remote so you can use the arrow keys to step thru setup patterns - as long as the custom button is set to be screen blank function.

Could someone with an IN76 tell me if there is no choice for tint when using the component imputes. I was trying to calibrate my PJ. My menu has no selection for tint, only color. Its not greyed out , its not there. Also there is no selection for NTSC or Pal. Has any one else seen this?

Thanks

David

I should be getting my projector back around Tuesday or Wednesday, so it took two and a half weeks for the whole process. A little longer than I would've liked, but they fixed it in three days. I'm happy I got the 2 amp fuse before my warranty ran out (this month.)

Does anyone know how much Infocus charges for the extended warranties? I just noticed on my RMA return slip that they offer them as long as you're still in warranty, but I have to wait until Monday at 12 eastern to find out how much. Surprised this thread is so dead.

Does anyone know how much Infocus charges for the extended warranties? :confused: Why don't you look HERE (http://store.infocus.com/escalate/store/CategoryPage?pls=infocus&bc=infocus&cc=Extended+Warranties&clist=017080322b7d&ret=Extended+Warranties&startNum=0&rangeNum=10) ??

Posted this at the IN72 threead but didn't get an answer:
Just uploaded the V.30 firmware this weekend. I'm using an HDMI cable from my DVD player and an HDMI>M1 from my cable box. When I go to set the colorspace the RGB setting gives me a weird pinkish picture. I forget the exact numbers, but the RC701 and 601 give me a good picture, but are slightly different. I chose the 701 setting by eye. Am I missing something here, or is this normal?

Posted this at the IN72 threead but didn't get an answer:
Just uploaded the V.30 firmware this weekend. I'm using an HDMI cable from my DVD player and an HDMI>M1 from my cable box. When I go to set the colorspace the RGB setting gives me a weird pinkish picture. I forget the exact numbers, but the RC701 and 601 give me a good picture, but are slightly different. I chose the 701 setting by eye. Am I missing something here, or is this normal?


Martin, see my reply in the IN72 Specific thread.
sgibson

MY beloved in76 died tonight, never said a peep, just died. Sounds like the fuse, but I'll let the techs tell me for sure. Two weeks of races down the drain :(

MY beloved in76 died tonight, never said a peep, just died. Sounds like the fuse, but I'll let the techs tell me for sure. Two weeks of races down the drain :(


Bummer, man!

Sometimes we overlook the obvious. Did you try plugging into another outlet.
If you have a computer , try it's 3-prong power cord on the IN76.

Hope this helps,
sgibson

Thanks for the thoughts, but yes, already eliminated the easy stuff.

I just upgraded to an IN72 from a 4805. I am now trying to calibrate my system using AVIA. On the black level (brightness) test I am supposed to use the two vertical bars moving back and forth to calibrate my black level. However, I cannot see these black bars under any settings. I tried adjusting my brightness from 0 to 100, still no black bars. I could run this test no problem on my 4805. Any suggestions or ideas?

Some more info - My white level is currently set to 40. I am using a linux (mythtv) HTPC running to my IN72 via DVI-D cable. I am pixel mapping at 848x480 at 60 Hz thru my Nvidia card. IN72 has 3.0 firmware. Thanks.

Anyone notice the pricing rebate?

http://www.infocus.com/Products/Projectors/IN76.aspx

That reminds me, my rebate's overdue. I'll call tomorrow and see what I can find out.

Update,
My 76 DIED Friday night. By Tuesday all I had received was an email approving my rma trying to sell me an extended warranty, but NO RMA! After bitching out some poor Indian tech support guy on Wednesday, I finally got my RMA and sent it on it's way. Stuff breaks and stuff happens, but I'm already down 4 days and I haven't even been able to ship it out. Infocus needs to improve their rma process. Oh, and my next pj will have a North American based tech support, if I can find one...

Oh, and my next pj will have a North American based tech support, if I can find one...

I hear you brother...Amen




cheers :)

Help me please. I have had my IN76 since October of 2006. Just last week I noticed this green color band that keeps scrolling across my screen. It is hooked up via component. Any idea what may be causing the problem?

Help me please. I have had my IN76 since October of 2006. Just last week I noticed this green color band that keeps scrolling across my screen. It is hooked up via component. Any idea what may be causing the problem?
I had slowly moving wide, faint, colored bands moving up the screen. Don't know if they are the same as yours. Mine were caused by electrical interference coming through the wall sockets. Some of my wall sockets are much worse than others. I am using a Panamax 5500 to clean the current and all electrical signals. If I don't use it the slow moving bands reappear. One guy on the forum figured out his interference was from another room in his house. I believe it was a fan. Hope this helps.

I've got an IN76 and I'm having some difficulty getting a clean 1:1 pixel match with my HTPC - I'm using a vga cable into the M1-DA input. When I set a standard 1280x720 res, the projector won't sync cleanly, when I get the projector to do an "auto adjust", it locks on better, but the horizontal position is off to the left pretty bad and it is taking quite alot of adjusting the horizontal position, tracking and phase to get a clean pixel matched image - even at it's best I'm not confident that it's a true 1:1 match............

Any advice appreciated.....

Sean.

Well, it's back. Appears to be fixed and they turned it around in ONE DAY!

I'm verry impressed in how quickly they got it back to me, door to door in one week, if only they hadn't made me wait 3 business days to get me rma info...

Dan

I've got an IN76 and I'm having some difficulty getting a clean 1:1 pixel match with my HTPC - I'm using a vga cable into the M1-DA input. When I set a standard 1280x720 res, the projector won't sync cleanly, when I get the projector to do an "auto adjust", it locks on better, but the horizontal position is off to the left pretty bad and it is taking quite alot of adjusting the horizontal position, tracking and phase to get a clean pixel matched image - even at it's best I'm not confident that it's a true 1:1 match............

Any advice appreciated.....

Sean.

What type of HTPC OS are you running?

What type of HTPC OS are you running?


XP SP2........... Have tried an nVidia 6600 and an ATI 9800XT

When I set the res to 1280x720 in the usual way, the projector sees it as 960x720 and displays it as a 4:3 image. When I set it as 1280x720 using Powerstrip, the projector sees it as 1280x720, but needs a djustment to Horizontal Position, Tracking and Phase to get a 1:1 match with clear text on the desktop. Overscan is Off, no Sharpness, Aspect Ratio Native.

I would have thought that a 1:1 match would have been straightforward.....



Sean.

I would have thought that a 1:1 match would have been straightforward.....By the by ...

"1:1 pixel mapped" infers that the source MEDIA and the DISPLAY are the same resolution. If the source PLAYER is the same resolution as the DISPLAY but the MEDIA is not, it is referred to as "pixel-mapped", not "1:1 pixel-mapped".

The only source MEDIA that can 1:1 pixel-map to the IN76 are ABC, FOX, NG and ESPN HD channels (and maybe one/some of the game machines), and only by a digital connection.

You cannot 1:1 pixel-map a SD or HD DVD to the IN76. :eek:

Cavu,

Thanks for the observation, but I'm a little puzzled - are you stating an opinion, or quoting Infocus ?

In the context of using a HTPC, don't think that the media has anything to do with it - with previous projectors I've been able to upscale DVD, display satelite TV programming (including HD) and get a 1:1 pixel match over VGA. I understand that if one were feeding a signal from a STB or other direct device, it might be a factor.

It could be the case that the projector would respond better to a digital signal, but a friend with a 7210 has the same issue over DVI. As the scaling chip in the 7210 and the IN76 are different, I'm assuming that it isn't a relevant factor.

Sean.

I've been able to upscale DVD, display satelite TV programming (including HD) and get a 1:1 pixel matchYou miss my point completely.

You cannot use the phrase "upscale" and "1:1" in the same sentence. If it is scaled at all, it is not a 1:1 pixel-map!!

The "1" on the left side of the "1:1" phrase refers to the source MEDIA and the "1" on the right side ("1:1") refers to the DISPLAY.

You can 1:1 pixel-map an 854x480 SD DVD image to an 854x480 display but, while you can "upscale" that same source image to 1280x720, it is no longer a 1:1 pixel-mapped image.

It is pixel-mapped, but not 1:1 !! :eek:

You miss my point completely.

You cannot use the phrase "upscale" and "1:1" in the same sentence. If it is scaled at all, it is not a 1:1 pixel-map!!

The "1" on the left side of the "1:1" phrase refers to the source MEDIA and the "1" on the right side ("1:1") refers to the DISPLAY.

You can 1:1 pixel-map an 854x480 SD DVD image to an 854x480 display but, while you can "upscale" that same source image to 1280x720, it is no longer a 1:1 pixel-mapped image.

It is pixel-mapped, but not 1:1 !! :eek:
That is both the best and most concise explanation I've ever heard on 1:1 pixel mapping. :)

Once again, great job, cavu!

Cavu,

I didn't miss your point, I simply have a different understanding of the term "1:1 pixel match" - I understand this to mean the match between an output device (i.e. HTPC, DVD Player, STB, Video Processor) and the display device. I haven't seen the term used exclusively in relation to the comparison between the native resolution of the media and the display device prior to reading your post on this thread..... I would regard your description as quite restrictive.


For example the following quote from a review of a Crystalio video processor(http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_12_1/pixel-magic-crystalio-processor-1-2005.html) treats the "1:1" term in the context of the relationship between the processor and the display device, with no reference to the media involved:


The scaler uses a 6-tap, 64 phase scaler/up-converter to perform the scaling to standard resolutions such as 480p, 540p, 576p, 720p, 1080i, and 1080p. It also supports custom resolutions and timings for CRT and fixed pixel displays, so that 1:1 pixel matching is possible.


I appreciate you taking the time to post on the topic, but it doesn't really get me any nearer an answer in relation to the IN76. I'd be very interested in hearing from any IN76 owners running a HTPC for their experiences of setting the resolution.

Sean.

You miss my point completely.

You cannot use the phrase "upscale" and "1:1" in the same sentence. If it is scaled at all, it is not a 1:1 pixel-map!!

The "1" on the left side of the "1:1" phrase refers to the source MEDIA and the "1" on the right side ("1:1") refers to the DISPLAY.

You can 1:1 pixel-map an 854x480 SD DVD image to an 854x480 display but, while you can "upscale" that same source image to 1280x720, it is no longer a 1:1 pixel-mapped image.

It is pixel-mapped, but not 1:1 !! :eek:

With this theory, there won't be any "1:1" pixel map even with SD DVD on a widescreen display. The DVD media is 720x480, horizontal squeezed to achieve 16:9.
Heck, there wont be even pixel map at 4:3 because 720x480 is 1.5:1. Every dvd player (including the beloved Bravo series) does the scaling to get 4:3, 16:9 or 2.35:1.

Am I missing something?

Am I missing something?Just that the pixels encoded on the DVD media are not square like the pixels on the display.

On wide screen material, the encoded pixels are wider than they are tall and on 4:3 format they are taller than they are wide and were never destined to be displayed as encoded.

In neither case does the Bravo scale the image, per se, it simply maps the output pixels horizontally as dictated by the encoding.

In the wide screen instance, the 720 encoded pixels are mapped to 854 horizontal display pixels and in the 4:3 mode it maps the 720 encoded pixels to 640 display pixels.

Hmmm... I guess we still need more info... :)

What is the difference between mapping and scaling?

From my understanding, there are 720 horizontal pixels on the dvd. The shape of the pixel (square/non-square) tells the player/video processor what aspect ratio it is. Depending on the shape, the processor maps 720 pixels to either 640 or 854 to get the desired aspect ratio. This mapping is like scaling. It's not like there are exact 854 pixels encoded on the DVD somehow.

Ever since I got my projector back from service, it's been flickering a little. The last few days it got worse. Tonight it was terribly, then my projector shut off and blinked red three times. I unplugged it and turned it back on after a while, but it was still flickering badly. I turned it to high mode and it hurts my eyes a little, but the flickering is much less, and it didn't turn off again. I am going to e-mail Infocus. Any advice?

Let it run for a few hours in high mode, it may fix the flickering in low mode. It's something to do with the arc formed in the bulb, but I forget exactly why it can help solve the problem.

I'd be doubtful that could actually fix it because why is it happening after 1,200 hours now right after I got it back from service? But then again, it stopped flickering, mostly, in high mode. Maybe they gave me a new bulb and didn't tell me about it?

Can anyone telll me what the dead pixel warranty is? After getting my projector back from Infocus for what they called a power supply problem, I have up to three intermittently dead pixels. It is on all sources, hdmi, dvi, svideo, but not all the time and not necessarily all three. Just up to three and always the same three. It was fine before the RMA.
On a side note, how can a company who can complete a repair in less than a day hire such an incompetent tech support company? After sending essentiallly the same message to Infocus, I recieved the following reply:

"Hello Dan,



Thank you for contacting InFocus Technical Support.



With regard to your query that the projected image is unclear. The following troubleshooting steps will help you resolve the issue."



It is as if they don't know what a pixel is let alone a dead one.

That's because there are no such things as dead pixels on a DLP. They are called stuck mirrors. It's when the little mirror that makes up a pixel on your display won't spin.

Maybe they gave me a new bulb and didn't tell me about it?
From what I've read on the IN72 and 4805, it's quite likely.

Just that the pixels encoded on the DVD media are not square like the pixels on the display.

On wide screen material, the encoded pixels are wider than they are tall and on 4:3 format they are taller than they are wide and were never destined to be displayed as encoded.

In neither case does the Bravo scale the image, per se, it simply maps the output pixels horizontally as dictated by the encoding.

In the wide screen instance, the 720 encoded pixels are mapped to 854 horizontal display pixels and in the 4:3 mode it maps the 720 encoded pixels to 640 display pixels.

Because DVD is required to be horizontally scaled - it is better to say scanline mapping occurs. 1:1 does mean that each pixel on the display comes from the source and not from display scaling -but the fact is the "1:1" DVD player had to scale what was on the DVD to generate the scanline. This is still better than an upconverting player that also scales the vertical dimension - which then gets rescaled by the PJ.

If you cannot display a B&W checkerboard pixel map - you don't have 1:1 from the source media. This is impossible with any DVD player by definition - you can only display map alternating B&W lines - not a checkerboard. Maybe someday someone will make an expansion/compression lens just for DVD PJ so the horizontal scaling is done optically from a displayed 720x480! Then you would have your rectangular pixels! Infocus already has the native mode which will allow this if 720x480 is sent.

Since horizontal scaling occurs - sending the display 640 vs. 720 vs. 854 is a matter of which does that horizontal scaling best. The method that the Bravo uses to map the 720 pixels to 854 or 640 is in fact horizontal scaling (but no vertical scaling) - for the sample fact that 720 does not gozinta either number without scaling. You could only call it mapping if there was a simple replication like 1:2.

If your source does this scaling - then indeed you want to pixel map its output to match the display device to avoid the double scaling by the display. This is only accomplished in native mode with an 854 (or close if the missing/extra pixels are dropped/cropped rather than scaled to 854)

OK,
Anyone know what the "Stuck Mirror" policy is?

Anyone know what the "Stuck Mirror" policy is?Bob Williams told me that the InFocus policy is exactly what the Texas Instrument policy was and that he was not aware of any customer claim being rejected.

Because DVD is required to be horizontally scaled - it is better to say scanline mapping occurs. 1:1 does mean that each pixel on the display comes from the source and not from display scaling -but the fact is the "1:1" DVD player had to scale what was on the DVD to generate the scanline. This is still better than an upconverting player that also scales the vertical dimension - which then gets rescaled by the PJ.

That is exactly my point. Every DVD player scales the picture one way or another. So, the 1:1 pixel mapping is between player output and display native resolution. In that sense, Oppo or any other upconverting player at 720p is pixel mapped to any native 720p display like HD70/IN76/HD1000u. Now whether its scaling is better than PJ itself is another question.

great my pj was flickering horribly for the first time a few minutes ago as I sat sleepless watching Las Vegas. I remembered reading about turning to high power for awhile to fix this. I flipped to high power and decided to check how many hours. 1300 and change. Watched maybe five minutes in high power and the whole thing shutdown. Now I can no longer get it to turn on and there is no green light while it is plugged in. How can I rule out it isn't the bulb, as I'm past six months on the bulb?

If there is no green light, then it's probably the fuse, which they will cover.

Help me please. I have had my IN76 since October of 2006. Just last week I noticed this green color band that keeps scrolling across my screen. It is hooked up via component. Any idea what may be causing the problem?

Ground loop. Your projector is grounded through the 3-prong plug, but the equipment on the other end of the component cable is grounded elsewhere. The difference in ground potential is flowing through the component cable's ground wire, creating the scrolling lines. If any of your equipment is hooked up to cable or sattelite, that coax is the most likely culprit. In fact you don't even have to be watching cable to see the effect. When you hooked all of your equipment up, the grounds for your receiver, cable-or-satellite box, dvd player, etc are tied together, and as those machines have only 2-prong plugs, they all become grounded at the cable.

A test- if it happens while watching a dvd, disconnect the cable-tv cable and see if the distortion stops.

I know of 2 solutions. One is to get a ground-loop isolator for your cable. It is a small, simple, cheap part, but not one you're likely to find at ratshack. Your cable company may have them. If not you'd have to do a web search and order it online.

Another solution is to get a surge strip that you can plug your cable into, and plug both your projector and your cable into it. This will reground your cable eliminating the potential difference. It works perfectly for me. Good luck.

Well, I've run my projector at high power for about ten-twelve hours now and the flickering is just as bad if I take it back to low mode. Even at high sometimes it's flickering a little, but barely. When I put it in low, it looks like a campfire. Wish I had time on Friday to call Infocus but I will be calling them tomorrow.

how many hours? what firmware? any other issues? is this the original? dedicated circuit or any power protection? anything changed with setup?

Latest firmware, updated at the factory. 1200 hours, but perhaps a new bulb (that they didn't tell me about.) Going through a SmartUPS 750 sinewave battery backup (which it had been for the first 1200 hours.) I never had any flickering issues until it was returned from service for the blown fuse.

Hi guys, I'm listing a bunch a cables later today at Audiogon/Videogon, but these are too low priced to be worth paying for a listing. Please PM me if you're interested. 6" M1 to DVI-D and an Audioquest F-DVI to M HDMI adapter. Both are as new.

I have been talking to the Infocus techs. They did not give me a new bulb (at the time of my service.) THe tech seems to think it's just a bulb issue, so he has sent me a new one. I should get it Monday or Tuesday. I feel like I'm really being taken care of here, after I was starting to grow concerns over the quality of the product.

I have been talking to the Infocus techs. They did not give me a new bulb (at the time of my service.) THe tech seems to think it's just a bulb issue, so he has sent me a new one. I should get it Monday or Tuesday. I feel like I'm really being taken care of here, after I was starting to grow concerns over the quality of the product.


You are getting the exact opposite of what I'm getting. I filled out the online request and got a repy stating, "check that the fan is spinning, check the led status, and clean the filters."

I responded restating everything I had already stated that the projector doesn't even turn on and that I needed an RMA number to get it fixed.

I receive another response stating "I have checked the database and no records were found." Nothing can be done until you fax a copy of your invoice. Well I don't have a fax machine so I call in to support, I could barely understand the person on the phone and after telling me to goto the options menu blah blah blah, even though the projector will not turn on I was promised someone would call me back. Which has not happened.

Does the IN76 not have a 2 year warranty on the projector? What do they mean by no records in there database?

The IN76 only had a one year warranty. Do you have the fax number? You can bring your receipt into Staples and have them fax it for a few bucks. They don't have a record that you are a valid customer if they don't have your receipt. You may need to call customer service and have it escalated past the foreign call center to get someone you can understand. Keep asking for supervisors.

does anyone have their IN76 ceiling mounted? Mine shifts position position slightly when it has heated up. It pulls to the right as you look at the screen. This happens once the lamp has heated up usually after 10 to 15 mins. Has anyone else noticed this?

Anyone know if all the IN76 projectors are HDMI 1.0, 1.1, 1.2 or vary with production date?
Thanks-

does anyone have their IN76 ceiling mounted? Mine shifts position position slightly when it has heated up. It pulls to the right as you look at the screen. This happens once the lamp has heated up usually after 10 to 15 mins. Has anyone else noticed this?
Tighten your mount and reseat your bulb.

Tighten your mount and reseat your bulb.

Thanks for your reply. :)

Did it work, donali? Follow ups are required here at AVS or someone comes to your home! ;)

Just heard this from my InFocus Rep:

Model Old Retail New Retail Diff

IN76 $2499 $2199 $300
IN78 $3999 $3499 $500

Glenzippy -

Not really earthshattering. Perhaps it will translate into lower street pricce.

IN76 $2199

Interesting, this now moves the IN76 price to the same as the Sharp XV-Z12000 MII I've been looking at also. Strange, all of a sudden, there are choices, choices and more choices.

In a nutshell,

IN76 for bigger screens, ambient light, ceiling mount above screen, prefer brighter picture

Sharp MKII smaller screens unless higher gain, light controlled rooms or little ambient light, deeper blacks, Longer throw and has to mount within the screen's height.

Both are good PJs.

Bob

The Sharp MKII is up and above the SP7210 in quality - forget the IN76. Of course it is a high contrast PJ not a torch like the Infocus, though you could always open the iris to get close; but it has a great lens and reference CMS. Astounding closeout deal if you act now - but as BobL mentioned - anyone moving on from an Infocus needs to entirely rethink their install and room - as these two represent polar opposites of the PJ market. Amazing how quickly high end 720P has taken a nose dive in just a year - even though those who get 1080P say you really don't notice the difference with 720P unless you get too close! The market is all about the big numbers pixels per $.

After about a 1000 hours my IN 76 started showing a faint white circle just right of centre,this is a reflection of the aperture[same shape] that you can see when you first turn the projector on if you look directly into the lense before it gets to full brightness.On screen it can only be seen in dark images and in fact will disappear if i lower the brightness 2 or 3 points but then you get crushed blacks.I seen this on a 4800 that i borrowed but never on my old 4805.I wonder if the inside of the lense is cigarette smoke stained or something and is it even possible to reach it for a cleaning.Or maybe its something else?

I'm waiting for the IN76 to reach below $1400 street, and then I might upgrade from my 72. I frequently prefer 720p from some cable channels, but it difficult to say why it looks better sometimes.

...a faint white circle just right of centre...
Sounds like a dust blob.

I got my new bulb and put it in, very carefully. Everything seemed fine at first, but then it started flickering in a different way than my first bulb has been. It's more subtle and much more constant. Then my projector started making a high pitched whine, but not very loud (but enough to be annoying.) Then it started becoming very sluggish to respond to the remote. It has displayed this behavoir all night long, despite several unplugs/restarts. I have an email out to Infocus.

The Sharp MKII is up and above the SP7210 in quality - forget the IN76. Of course it is a high contrast PJ not a torch like the Infocus, though you could always open the iris to get close; but it has a great lens and reference CMS. Astounding closeout deal if you act now - but as BobL mentioned - anyone moving on from an Infocus needs to entirely rethink their install and room - as these two represent polar opposites of the PJ market. Amazing how quickly high end 720P has taken a nose dive in just a year - even though those who get 1080P say you really don't notice the difference with 720P unless you get too close! The market is all about the big numbers pixels per $.

So, I am gathering you would recommend the MKII if the room can accommodate it. My room is 16'8" long bat cave so I cannot go more than a 92" diag with the MKII given its long throw. The ceiling is 10' so the placement is another concern since I would like to ceiling mount at around 12' (since that is where my cable come out of the ceiling.

I really thought I had this worked out when I designed the room, now with this MKII in the mix, everything is all out of whack. I might just wait for the HC3100 to arrive in the US so I can go larger screen with shorter throw.

Keep in mind the Sharp is 4x dimmer in high contrast than a SP7210 in bright mode - and has the same contrast in it's brite mode as Sp7210 yet is 25% dimmer. The IN76 is just as bright as that but has more contrast.

Where do you find a 4x gain screen so you can enjoy the same brightness on the big screen that you have with Infocus so you can still enjoy the high contrast? Take BobL's advice to heart - you need much smaller gain screens to enjoy the Sharp. With a ceiling mount your best bet is a SilverStar - with shelf mount DaLite High Power - but those are only 3x gain.

Kras, thanks for the input again. I think most people with the MKII are suggesting the use of High Power, maybe as one of the few options to help the dim output of the MKII. In my case, I have a 13' wide room so the HP being somewhat retro reflective and having a narrower viewing cone should not be an issue. However, I really wanted to stay away from retro reflective materials.

Can a dust blob be a 1 foot diameter circle on a 100" screen?This is what i have but the inside of this circle is mostly black.I thought dust blobs were small white spots only but i hope it is a dust blob so i can clean it.Has anyone dusted a IN 76?

Just heard this from my InFocus Rep:

Model Old Retail New Retail Diff

IN76 $2499 $2199 $300
IN78 $3999 $3499 $500
The new MSRP seems to have reduced the price from unauthorized dealers, however the authorized dealers don't seem to be reducing their price. I contacted AVS earlier this week and they haven't reduced the price. I'm still using my 4805 and I think the IN76 would be a good upgrade. Please PM me if anyone has seen a good price from an authorized dealer.

The new MSRP seems to have reduced the price from unauthorized dealers, however the authorized dealers don't seem to be reducing their price. I contacted AVS earlier this week and they haven't reduced the price. I'm still using my 4805 and I think the IN76 would be a good upgrade. Please PM me if anyone has seen a good from an authorized dealer.

Infocus lowered the MSRP but didn't change the dealer cost so I wouldn't expect AVS or other authorized dealers to lower their pricing.

Bob

Infocus lowered the MSRP but didn't change the dealer cost so I wouldn't expect AVS or other authorized dealers to lower their pricing.

Bob
Thats a bummer for me and dealers! :eek:

Still having the flickering, non-responsive remote, whining problem so Infocus is replacing my projector! Technically it's out of warranty now, even though their repair that caused these problems has a 90 day warranty, so I'm very happy!

I´ve seen the IN 76 at $1699....

I read a post a while back that asked if anyone had opened up the projector to flip over the silver side panels so "Infocus" would read properly when inverted. At the time, it had not been done.

Has anyone ever done it? If so, any steps to follow? I'm considering doing this myself but do not like that I will void my warranty in the event I break something.

I think it would just be safer to get a dab of some silver and black paint and mod the label to read "snoojuI" then tell your friends that it's the newest 2160p unit from France. ;)

Not worth the risk.

If I recall a much earlier post, the InFocus label can't be reversed.

I think it would just be safer to get a dab of some silver and black paint and mod the label to read "snoojuI" then tell your friends that it's the newest 2160p unit from France. ;)

Not worth the risk. You are probably right. Hmm... custom sticker. I might need to look into that.


If I recall a much earlier post, the InFocus label can't be reversed. Figures :( They market this projector as a Home Theater projector. You might have thought that more than 50% of the people would hang them upside down. How easy would it have been to make those side pieces removable and reversible. Oh well, guess they can't think of everything :rolleyes:

I said it before...IF should make all their HT units with upside-down labels and their business class all opposite.

Hi all,

after 716 hours on the lamp my trusty In76 went dead. No LED nothing. Having read this thread since I bought it in July I just knew it was the fuse. I checked the fuse afer 5 minutes trying to find it and sure enough it had blown. So a BIG THANK YOU to billymac and Hightechredneck for their postings on fixing the problem. It was a 1A glass type fuse. I managed to pry out the broken one and insert a 2A. I thought this would be a better idea than having to trail wires. 20 minutes later my PJ is back up and running.

Cheers guys

Don

:)

Can you give me the links for those postings on how to replace the fuse yourself? Thanks.

Can you give me the links for those postings on how to replace the fuse yourself? Thanks.

Yes - I would be very curious to see these as well. I thought Billymac sent his IN 72 to Infocus to have the fuse repaired. Also, I thought the 1A fuse was
soldered on, making it very difficult to repair without proper tools and skills -
but " 20 minutes " makes it sound rather simple.

Yes - I would be very curious to see these as well. I thought Billymac sent his IN 72 to Infocus to have the fuse repaired. Also, I thought the 1A fuse was
soldered on, making it very difficult to repair without proper tools and skills -
but " 20 minutes " makes it sound rather simple.

Here is the quote from Hightechredneck.


billymac,

The fuse runs between F501 and F508 on the PCB. I used 2 - 15" runs of 24 AWG solid copper (1 pair of cat 5e !) and a 2 amp GMA fast blow fuse. Solder the leads to the fuse and insulate electrically (Tape or heat shrink), check continuity through the fuse after soldering. Remove the PCB with the blown fuse from the projector, turn it over and solder the leads to the underside of the PCB at sockets for F501 and F508. Re-install the PCB, reassemble the projector and route the fuse/leads up into the area accessable for bulb replacement. (That way if the fuse blows you can replace it without another disassembly) The old blown fuse stays right where it is. If you aren't handy with a soldering pencil, disassembling consumer electronics, safety practices with regard to handling integrated circuits (CMOS safety and static discharge) or comfortable tracing paths on a PCB you should not even attempt this. Remember, I rolled the dice with regard to warranty, knowing what the stakes were/are. Once you open the case you have no warranty, and may do more damage trying to fix the original problem. That said, I've done this sort of thing before and was suffering from HD withdrawal on 20" SD CRT's, so my judgement was seriously clouded.

Cheers,
Hightechredneck



When I opened up the case I found that the fuse encaps were soldered on to the board. Using long nose pliers and a long thin screwdriver I prised the endcaps of the fuse. All I then had to do was replace the fuse with a similar sized 2A version. 20 mins was all the job took and it was a simple but delicate job. Take your time and it should be OK .

I said it before...IF should make all their HT units with upside-down labels and their business class all opposite.

Don't forget a major feature of the new case - was the coffee table pedestal. If you go with their assumption that the majority of installs for a cheap PJ are living rooms - then make the further assumption that nobody pays for installs for cheap PJ - that they indeed plop them on the coffee table - and thus the right side up label! I figure there is a market that thinks that indeed - but the first day the kid or pet smears the lens or trips on the cords - it is DIY time on the ceiling! Now the IN78EX which is a custom installer model - has no label!

Poll time - anyone actually use the table pedestal for a permanent setup?

kras, I'm guessing 1.36% use that extra plastic, with 1.35% using it as a frisbee with their kids, and that's probably high. Buy a $500 pj and not spend $20 on a mount? I'm the cheapest of cheap, but...wow.

.


billymac,

The fuse runs between F501 and F508 on the PCB. I used 2 - 15" runs of 24 AWG solid copper (1 pair of cat 5e !) and a 2 amp GMA fast blow fuse. Solder the leads to the fuse and insulate electrically (Tape or heat shrink), check continuity through the fuse after soldering. Remove the PCB with the blown fuse from the projector, turn it over and solder the leads to the underside of the PCB at sockets for F501 and F508. Re-install the PCB, reassemble the projector and route the fuse/leads up into the area accessable for bulb replacement. (That way if the fuse blows you can replace it without another disassembly) The old blown fuse stays right where it is. If you aren't handy with a soldering pencil, disassembling consumer electronics, safety practices with regard to handling integrated circuits (CMOS safety and static discharge) or comfortable tracing paths on a PCB you should not even attempt this. Remember, I rolled the dice with regard to warranty, knowing what the stakes were/are. Once you open the case you have no warranty, and may do more damage trying to fix the original problem. That said, I've done this sort of thing before and was suffering from HD withdrawal on 20" SD CRT's, so my judgement was seriously clouded.

Cheers,
Hightechredneck



When I opened up the case I found that the fuse encaps were soldered on to the board. Using long nose pliers and a long thin screwdriver I prised the endcaps of the fuse. All I then had to do was replace the fuse with a similar sized 2A version. 20 mins was all the job took and it was a simple but delicate job. Take your time and it should be OK .

Donali - thanks for your quick response and I apologize for still being a little confused, but why are Hightechredneck's instructions so outlandish compared to yours?

Hi Casino,

if you are unsure about prising of the fuse endcaps and dont want to chance breaking the fuse or the solder joint, then you can solder on a couple of wires and run them out to the side so that you can easily fix a replacement fuse. I needed the instructions to help find the fuse in the first place.

Hope this helps

Don

I have not chimed in since I bought my IN76 last year. Just wanted to say that I'm extremely happy with the unit! No issues to date except for some weird issue with hooking up my PS3 to it. It comes up native 720p, but when I put a blue ray disc in the projector defaults to 480p - almost like an HDCP issue?

Otherwise I'm loving the picture quality!

Actually, the PS3 cannot scale Blu-rays to 720p so if you do not have 1080i as your display choice, it reverts down to 480p.

Actually, the PS3 cannot scale Blu-rays to 720p so if you do not have 1080i as your display choice, it reverts down to 480p.

Ah, interesting! I wish I had asked three months ago! I'll try it tonight :) Thanks!

I got the replacement projector and it seemed fine out of the box but it has a stuck pixel/mirror. It's right in the top center of the screen (about fifteen pixels from the top) and I'm very distressed. Has anyone had any luck... unsticking these?

Actually, the PS3 cannot scale Blu-rays to 720p so if you do not have 1080i as your display choice, it reverts down to 480p.
With the new update the PS3 can now upscale regular DVDs. Is it upscaling to 1080i if not 720p? My projector is a native 720p but accepts 1080i. I was waiting for the PS3 to get this upgrade so that it could upscale regular DVDs but with a native 720p projector am I going to be looking at a 480p image? My IN76 I thought would convert everything to 720p as it accepts pretty much any input and automatically does the converting to 720p. Have I got this right?

I don't know. I'm no longer considering buying a PS3, so I haven't been keeping up with the firmware changes. There is a PS3 section to this forum where they will be able to answer that question in short order.

With the new update the PS3 can now upscale regular DVDs. Is it upscaling to 1080i if not 720p? My projector is a native 720p but accepts 1080i. I was waiting for the PS3 to get this upgrade so that it could upscale regular DVDs but with a native 720p projector am I going to be looking at a 480p image? My IN76 I thought would convert everything to 720p as it accepts pretty much any input and automatically does the converting to 720p. Have I got this right?

James,

You have this correct. Your IN76 will convert and process everything to 720P. All fixed panel displays whether a PJ, plasma, LCD, etc. have to convert/ process their signals to the native resolution of the display. The question is which does the better job of converting/ processing the PS3 or the IN76? With the PS3 I'd send the DVD to the PJ at 480 and let the IN76 do the work. All because the PS3 can upconvert doesn't mean you should to use it;)

On some of the better DVD players you will get better results letting the DVD player do the processing, again depends on which device has the better processing/ scaling capabilities. This is why some people buy video processors so they can get the best processing for all their sources :D

Hope this helps

Bob

James,

You have this correct. Your IN76 will convert and process everything to 720P. All fixed panel displays whether a PJ, plasma, LCD, etc. have to convert/ process their signals to the native resolution of the display. The question is which does the better job of converting/ processing the PS3 or the IN76? With the PS3 I'd send the DVD to the PJ at 480 and let the IN76 do the work. All because the PS3 can upconvert doesn't mean you should to use it;)

On some of the better DVD players you will get better results letting the DVD player do the processing, again depends on which device has the better processing/ scaling capabilities. This is why some people buy video processors so they can get the best processing for all their sources :D

Hope this helps

Bob
Thanks!
Is it possible to allow the PS3 to do the 720 processing instead of using the IN76 processor? I would need to shut off or bypass the IN76's processing but I can't find any menu that allows me to pass the source processing through without the IN76 doing its thing.
Thanks again!

I can't find any menu that allows me to pass the source processing through without the IN76 doing its thing.Set the Apect Ratio to 'native'.

Set the Apect Ratio to 'native'.

So does "native" always mean native to what is being input and not the display device??

Yup.

Yes it works fine. Select the "Letterbox" format and use the lens.
Got the Theater Brothers' lens as it was reasonably priced, ready to ship, and had the anti-reflective coating. Great lens but with the IN76 set on "letterbox" the bottom of the image is cut off so I can't see the sat. settings or captioning when needed. Is there any way to fix this?
Thanks-

Use 4:3 mode for non-2.35 content, that will give it the proper aspect ratio (assuming your source is set to 16:9 output).

is there a way to clean the color wheel on the IN76?

or is it not advisable to DIY and should be sent back to Infocus?

I remember there was a thread devoted just for color wheel cleaning on the 4805 a while back here at this forum

thanks

I know we've got some smart people in this thread, and IN76 owners too, so here goes. Finally got my Spyder2PRO so I've spent the last week or so getting a feel for it, as well as ColorHCFR and how to affect changes using the IN76's user controls.

But now it's time for some IN76-tweaking specific questions. First off, looking at the below CIE chart (unfortunately I don't know which CIE chart this is), do the results look reasonable? I know there was some discussion that PJ MFGs would push green toward yellow to make the PJs brighter, I'm just trying to figure out if that looks reasonable.

For reference, I used dr1394's 709 patterns for the measurements and have ColorHCRF set to 709 for reference. Source was my HTPC via HDMI (RGB).

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/501/medium/IN76_CIE.jpg
http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphoto.php/photo/25744/cat/501

Second is the RGB curves:

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/501/medium/IN76_RGB.jpg
http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphoto.php/photo/25745/cat/501

Not really a question about the results so much as my technique for trying to adjust them. Seems like you can't really adjust "0 IRE" since it's black and if calibrated right, the mirrors are basically off so you're basically getting native lamp color. So what I've been doing is using primarily "10 IRE" to adjust the offset/bias, and then using the 70/80/90 "IRE" to adjust the gain, that seems to work pretty well. Any thoughts?

One question, which color temperature setting is best to use as a baseline, I'd been using 6500k, but I was wondering if it might not be better to use native?

Oh, and I'm getting a measured On/Off CR of a smidge over 1300:1.

Thoughts are appreciated.

I use different equipment so correct me if any of my assumptions are incorrect. The Spyder2pro is a 'pod' type instrument and you are taking readings directly from the PJ? If so to measure 10 IRE accurately the pod needs to be pretty close to the PJ and not directly in front of the screen.

Many calibrators will use two IREs to do their base calibration for example 30 & 80. The bias IREs they usually use between 20-30 and the gain IREs 75-90. You usually don't pick numbers at the extremes (ie 10 & 100 IRE) as that is where most errors will occur and can really throw off the middle if you calibrate using them. Since you are new try 30 & 80 and make your adjustments. After you get it close then do the whole range 10-100 and see how it tracks. Once you do this a few times you will understand how your display tracks and you can then make some educated trade offs. Let's say you get a small hump in the midrange. You can then decide if it is better to leave the midrange good and have slightly warmer colors at the extreme IREs or is better to get the extreme's on target and leave the hump in the middle.

I mention a lot of this for people who are reading this thread. Because the good news is the IN76 tracks very well and your tradeoffs are very minor! Use 6500K as your baseline. Also, with a pod take a reading from the screen with a 100 IRE pattern, angle the pod so you get the best reflected light. Compare it to the 100 IRE pattern directly from the PJ to see how much the screen is color shifting. Almost all screens have at least a little shift and since your instrument is not designed for screen measurements this will help you make better decisions while calibrating.

Also, don't forget your basic adjustments and checking gamma. Trying to fix a red push using grayscale controls won't work for a color decoding problem. Keep going back once you get everything close. You shouldn't have many problems with the IN76. Because it is pretty close out of the box so you shouldn't have many problems and is a great PJ to get a feel for calibrating.

Hope this helps.

Bob

I use different equipment so correct me if any of my assumptions are incorrect. The Spyder2pro is a 'pod' type instrument and you are taking readings directly from the PJ? If so to measure 10 IRE accurately the pod needs to be pretty close to the PJ and not directly in front of the screen.

You're probably right (not sure what "pod" type means), but it seems to work fine, Gamma is spot on all the way down to 0 IRE.

Many calibrators will use two IREs to do their base calibration for example 30 & 80. The bias IREs they usually use between 20-30 and the gain IREs 75-90. You usually don't pick numbers at the extremes (ie 10 & 100 IRE) as that is where most errors will occur and can really throw off the middle if you calibrate using them. Since you are new try 30 & 80 and make your adjustments. After you get it close then do the whole range 10-100 and see how it tracks.

I should probably clarify, I don't just use two and call it good. What my entire workflow is, I start by measuring the whole scale. Then I throw ColorHCFR into it's continuous measurement mode, where it just keeps taking readings. In that mode, I pick a low "IRE" pattern and tweak offset/bias, then a high one and mess with gain, then I tend to try a different one to make sure I didn't throw it off.

Then I go back and measure them all again to see what the result is.

Once you do this a few times you will understand how your display tracks and you can then make some educated trade offs. Let's say you get a small hump in the midrange. You can then decide if it is better to leave the midrange good and have slightly warmer colors at the extreme IREs or is better to get the extreme's on target and leave the hump in the middle.

Yup, what I was doing made logical sense to me, but thought I'd ping the forum to see if there was something I handn't considered.

I mention a lot of this for people who are reading this thread. Because the good news is the IN76 tracks very well and your tradeoffs are very minor!

Yes it does, in fact, it's kind of as I expected, were I getting the Spyder only for the IN76, it's definitely NOT worth the $180 I spent since the IN76 is so good out of the box.

However I've wanted the a sensor for a while, and I enjoy tweaking it to get it that little bit better, plus I wanted the PRO version to calibrate my LCD monitors as well.

Mainly it's a "toy"/educational tool. Plus I'm sure I'll have good use for it in the future.

Use 6500K as your baseline. Also, with a pod take a reading from the screen with a 100 IRE pattern, angle the pod so you get the best reflected light. Compare it to the 100 IRE pattern directly from the PJ to see how much the screen is color shifting.

Well, actually my SMX screen has almost no color shift, can't remember the exact numbers at the moment, 0.04 sounds about right, toward green IIRC.

Almost all screens have at least a little shift and since your instrument is not designed for screen measurements this will help you make better decisions while calibrating.

[QUOTE]Also, don't forget your basic adjustments and checking gamma. Trying to fix a red push using grayscale controls won't work for a color decoding problem. Keep going back once you get everything close. You shouldn't have many problems with the IN76. Because it is pretty close out of the box so you shouldn't have many problems and is a great PJ to get a feel for calibrating.

Yeah, that's basically where I'm at, I'm just playing to see what I can do. It really is a great PJ, without the sensor, I'd really found no reason to change from the defaults, especially not on the HDMI input.

Hope this helps.

Bob

Yeah, thanks. Any thoughts on the CIE chart? I was going through the Reading and interpreting calibration charts and data for dummies (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=586691) thread and there was note that using the wrong chart (1976 or 1931) or the wrong colorspace (601 vs 709) can throw off the green location. Just want to make sure there's not something I've got setup wrong somewhere.

stranger89

That is about what I would expect - as BobL points out your technique&gear for low %/IRE is going to give greater error than the PJ has. I generally use 25% for darks and still only measure 2' wide images - below that I don't worry about it - I use a Spyder. With Infocus I generally see it flat all the way down using that setup, but dimmer PJ's usually blue/red readings get wacky. A bit of red loss across the board is expected once your lamp ages - so you will want to recheck it out occasionaly. Usually a click off say every 500hrs.

You can try decalibrating Native or 7500K to D65 and seeing if you get better contrast than the 6500K preset. It depends on the individual lamp and PJ - but a good trick to try if it works. Personally I prefer as little changes as possible.

Unless you are greatly dark adapted with excellent night vision - you cannot see the dim errors anyways! For brights I use 100% - this is specific to Infocus - it will clip RGB if you try to gain them away from the preset - you can only cut the gains. Other manuf will not clip - but they will color temp shift at 100%.

The colorspace choice can throw you off - you can look in your menu and see which it autoselected - but the main difference will be in color brightness which you are not charting and since color decoding is on the HTPC - not a PJ issue anyways. But make sure it picked up on Video RGB if you used Video levels on your HTPC with HDMI instead of PC levels.

The choice of CIE chart ('76 vs. '31) is not changing the readings - just how they present them to represent better what you perceive. The point you should take away from that thread is not to let the 1931 chart persuade you that is what you see - as it is not as perceptually uniform as the 1976 chart. If you use the later '76 chart you would see the yellower desaturated greens is not as big of deal as the '31 chart seems to make them - which if you compared to a reference HD green (like on Mitsu HC3000) you would agree with the later chart.

On either chart you will notice the secondaries (CMY) are dead on hue - this is something Infocus is really good at - and it compensates for any lack of perfection in RGB or W. Natural video is not as deeply saturated as primaries - and eyes are white adaptable - but you can easily tell when secondaries are out.

For contrast measures you will want to learn the technique of finding your clipping limits for bias/gains as well as brightness/contast (use your eyes and the RGB historgrams from your sensor) - as well as using the close lens readings in a true bat cave. I think you can get better numbers than that - as I got 1800:1 if I recall. This varies a bit with lens zoom.

Infocus is about the worst PJ to buy if you want to learn to be a calibrator - other than learning what video SHOULD look like and what controls SHOULD do :D I could think of a couple sub $1K 720P's you can buy to practice on and get some real experience! :D

stranger89

That is about what I would expect - as BobL points out your technique&gear for low %/IRE is going to give greater error than the PJ has. I generally use 25% for darks and still only measure 2' wide images - below that I don't worry about it - I use a Spyder. With Infocus I generally see it flat all the way down using that setup, but dimmer PJ's usually blue/red readings get wacky. A bit of red loss across the board is expected once your lamp ages - so you will want to recheck it out occasionaly. Usually a click off say every 500hrs.

Cool, that's kinda what I was looking for.

You can try decalibrating Native or 7500K to D65 and seeing if you get better contrast than the 6500K preset. It depends on the individual lamp and PJ - but a good trick to try if it works. Personally I prefer as little changes as possible.

That was my thought, of course my other thought was by recalibrating Native, I'd just be bringing it right back to where it was, but with a lot of manual effort :eek:

Unless you are greatly dark adapted with excellent night vision - you cannot see the dim errors anyways! For brights I use 100% - this is specific to Infocus - it will clip RGB if you try to gain them away from the preset - you can only cut the gains. Other manuf will not clip - but they will color temp shift at 100%.

I was noticing that. Of course it kind of makes sense, at least, if you're trying to maximize CR from the factory, you'd want the mirrors/LCDs/whatever "On" as much as possible for white, and "Off" as much as possible for black.

The colorspace choice can throw you off - you can look in your menu and see which it autoselected - but the main difference will be in color brightness which you are not charting and since color decoding is on the HTPC - not a PJ issue anyways. But make sure it picked up on Video RGB if you used Video levels on your HTPC with HDMI instead of PC levels.

It is, and I can tell when it's not, well, if I set it to PC RGB I can tell it's not right.

The choice of CIE chart ('76 vs. '31) is not changing the readings - just how they present them to represent better what you perceive. The point you should take away from that thread is not to let the 1931 chart persuade you that is what you see - as it is not as perceptually uniform as the 1976 chart. If you use the later '76 chart you would see the yellower desaturated greens is not as big of deal as the '31 chart seems to make them - which if you compared to a reference HD green (like on Mitsu HC3000) you would agree with the later chart.

Guess I'll need to spend some more time going through that thread, really haven't taken the time to get past the first two pages or so yet.

On either chart you will notice the secondaries (CMY) are dead on hue - this is something Infocus is really good at - and it compensates for any lack of perfection in RGB or W. Natural video is not as deeply saturated as primaries - and eyes are white adaptable - but you can easily tell when secondaries are out.

For contrast measures you will want to learn the technique of finding your clipping limits for bias/gains as well as brightness/contast (use your eyes and the RGB historgrams from your sensor) - as well as using the close lens readings in a true bat cave. I think you can get better numbers than that - as I got 1800:1 if I recall. This varies a bit with lens zoom.

Yeah, I haven't really gotten to trying to crank the max contrast out of it yet.

Infocus is about the worst PJ to buy if you want to learn to be a calibrator - other than learning what video SHOULD look like and what controls SHOULD do :D

Hey, at least with an IF, when you get it way out of wack, you've got something to go back to :D

I could think of a couple sub $1K 720P's you can buy to practice on and get some real experience! :D

I think I'll stick with my 76, but if you've got a nice, reasonable 1080p that's got great potential but needs some help, now that would be interesting :)

I have a small, light spot that appears on dark/black backgrounds. The lighter spot is maybe six inches wide and three or four inches high. It is probably there all the time, but is noticeable just on the dark backgrounds. What is this most likely? I cleaned the lens with a soft cotton cloth, and maybe it got better (placebo effect probably), but I can still see it.

Does anyone have any experience with this and solving it? Thanks.

I have a small, light spot that appears on dark/black backgrounds. The lighter spot is maybe six inches wide and three or four inches high. It is probably there all the time, but is noticeable just on the dark backgrounds. What is this most likely? I cleaned the lens with a soft cotton cloth, and maybe it got better (placebo effect probably), but I can still see it.

Does anyone have any experience with this and solving it? Thanks.

Sounds like a dust blob. This can be fixed by opening the machine and cleaning but will invalidate the warranty.

Might want to check your lens before you do that, DLPs have sealed optical paths and shouldn't have dust blobs.

I was watching a movie last night....and about half way my projector (IN76) shut off and it had the little red blinking light.
I disconnected it, and waited like 5 minutes...when i plugged it back in it was green again. I turned it on and again a little later it turned off. I have it mounted on the celing and when i felt it, the top right corner was really hot.

I decided to leave it to cool off, because I had already used it alot before that same day....so i thought i might have used it too much.
But today....i was playing on my 360...and same thing happened like 1 hour after.

Would you guys have any idea what is wrong? could it a fan not working or something.....i never had this issue which I am guessing is overheating....

OK, not sure if this has been hit or not, but I'm not really sure how to describe the artifact I'm seeing. I'm 99% sure it's my IN76 generating the artifact because I've seen it on multiple inputs, at multiple resolutions from multiple sources, and if I pause the source, the artifact keeps moving/flickering. Best way I can describe it is vertical bars that occur in low luminance areas. If I remember correctly (forgot to check last night when I shot it), they aren't affected by the brightness of the PJ, so it seems like and input processing thing.

So, attached is a screenshot of the artifact, any thoughts?

Might want to check your lens before you do that, DLPs have sealed optical paths and shouldn't have dust blobs.
Not all DLPs have sealed light paths. The 4805 was a DLP dust blob magnet for many people.

stanger89 are you using DVI/HDMI cables? Do you get the artifact with the screen blank or test patterns (the PJ's not the source)? Is this only with compressed video (MPEG decoder error) and does that source do the same on another monitor?

stanger89 are you using DVI/HDMI cables?

HDMI and component.

Do you get the artifact with the screen blank or test patterns (the PJ's not the source)?

It seems to happen only at values somewhere between black and white (closer to black). So it won't happen on a black screen, and I haven't seen it on any test patterns.

Is this only with compressed video (MPEG decoder error) and does that source do the same on another monitor?

The screenshot is from the Planet Earth HD DVD (the opening) via my Xbox 360 (component, 1080i). I've seen it on The Matrix HD DVD as well, along with some recordings from my HTPC. As I said, the artifact is not static, it "flickers" and continues to flicker while the video is paused. For sources I've seen this with that I can play elsewhere, I don't recall seeing it.

Might want to check your lens before you do that, DLPs have sealed optical paths and shouldn't have dust blobs.

Not all DLP's have fully sealed optical paths. The IN72-IN74-IN76 have "mostly" sealed optical paths.


htr

OK, not sure if this has been hit or not, but I'm not really sure how to describe the artifact I'm seeing. I'm 99% sure it's my IN76 generating the artifact because I've seen it on multiple inputs, at multiple resolutions from multiple sources, and if I pause the source, the artifact keeps moving/flickering. Best way I can describe it is vertical bars that occur in low luminance areas. If I remember correctly (forgot to check last night when I shot it), they aren't affected by the brightness of the PJ, so it seems like and input processing thing.
I've seen this occasionally also, I think I noticed it on one of the SD DVE test patterns and on an XBox game (both over S-Video); I think it's definitely an issue with the IN76's processing, but why it happens I have no idea.

This is my first posting on this forum, but I've lurked here for a while, and it was this thread that helped me to decide to purchase the IN72. I got it refurbished, and there's something that may or may not be strange, but is bugging me nonetheless. There is a small something when one looks through the lens, and though it doesn't seem to affect the picture in any way, I wanted to see if this is normal, or if I should send this back to have them re-refurbish it. ;-) It looks like a little triangle of gray.
Here's what I'm talking about:
...ok, apparently I can't post the image directly OR even post a link! Arrgh, ok, here they are in plain text. Sorry about this people, but apparently you have to have 5 posts before you can post a url directly...
here's the best way I can think to do this. The website is monstrobot com. Add /images/ to the end of THAT, and there are 2 files, lens 001 and lens 003. They're both jpgs, right in the images root. SO SORRY I can't post the whole path, but this is my 7th try, and I can't get the parser to let me get by unless I mangle the address. I'll gladly email the links and/or photos to whoever might be able to help me out. Once I go over 5 posts, I'll post the full links, but I don't want to spam 5 times just to do it...

If you can solve the link puzzle (ugh), you can see the little triangle (not sure what it is, or if it's supposed to be there). Do any other models have this? I'm not TOO concerned since it doesn't affect the picture, but if there's something loose inside, I want to know what it is before I blow the lamp apart or something...

Thanks for any replies to this, and if this should be posted somewhere else please let me know. Thanks for everyone's help and good advice throughout this thread, it helped out a lot... ;-)

~Geoff

Here are the pics Geoff is talking about in the above post.

http://monstrobot.com/images/lens%20001.jpg http://monstrobot.com/images/lens%20003.jpg

Thanks swithey! Sorry I couldn't post them myself. You can see the small piece in the bottom right of the image. Because this projector is ceiling mounted, when the PJ is sitting on a table, it will be in the bottom left. What I'm not sure is whether or not this is a piece having to do with focus, or something that shifted during transport. If anyone could look at their own IN72 and report back, it would put me very much at ease... I also have a call with Infocus Tech Support, but when I told them about it, I think they thought I was crazy... ;-)

~Geoff

OK, an update, though the question is still open to anyone that can answer...
I spoke with an Infocus rep, and they said that this was standard and nothing to be alarmed about. This made me feel slightly better, though the hoops I had to jump through to even give a rudimentary explanation they could understand did not help me trust their answer. I'm sure they're correct, but I guess I'd like to know from less, ahem, involved, sources. Involved as in, we don't want him to send us back his broken crap so tell him it's fine... ;-)
Anyway, if anyone has anything to add or knows if this is a normal feature, that would be nice to know. If not, I got an answer from Infocus. Now I just have to learn to live with it...
Thanks again for posting the pics swithey!

~Geoff

If the SP7200 is in your list, the IN76 should be as well. If you can afford a 720p machine, I see no reason to get a 480p one. And unless you're really going to be using it in a business environment, you definitely want one of the home theater projectors over the business ones.

:) (Quote deleted at request of poster)

Comparative posting on two different threads, eh? ;)

No matter. You'll get the same response either way. :D

Hello,

I was watching the PJ tonight and went downstairs to check some email. I came back upstairs to find the IN76 dead :mad:. Nothing blinking, just dead. I thought maybe my wife turned it off but unfortunately that wasn't the case. With out reading back through 130 pages ... is this what happens when that fuse blows? I've unplugged it, let it sit for a while but still no luck.

What is turn around time to get fixed with INfocus?

Thanks,
Barry

Yes it is. I had my projector back in about 8 or 9 days after mailing it back to Infocus for repair. Sorry yours failed also.
Dave

Thanks Dave. I sent it off on Friday.

Hi
I have an IN76 connected to a PS3 via HDMI and am trying to watch Blu-Ray discs at 24 fps but when I set the PS3 to output 1080p at 24hz the video flickers and is not entirely synced with itself... This projector is supposed to support 1080p/24... Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks!

Infocus IN 74EX
Reciever: Yamaha 1400
Monstor Composite Cable
S-Video cable

I got a new IN74EX and on setting it up, it displays only black and white images - no color. I have tried various things without any luck.

I get the same results with a composite cable as well as with a S_Video cable.

I even detached the S-Video cable from the receiver and attached it to my TV, and I get a proper signal.

Hence, I am assuming that something probably needs to be setup on my projector.

Any suggestions are welcome.

It look like the folks in Kentucky are on the ball. After spending only 24 hours there my PJ is back on its way home. :p

Does anyone that had the fuse problem last year know what else they do to the PJ? My bulb had about 1600 hours on it. Any chance they replaced it?

I took the down time to convert the open room where it was mounted into a dedicated theater room. I guess there's a silver lining in every cloud. :)

They wouldn't touch a bulb unless it was blown and still under warranty. They do update all firmware, so you'll have the most current version now.

Can anyone tell me what type of screws in metric size you used to mount this PJ? I recall my 4805 using M7 screws but can't seem to find this info for the in76.

Thanks!

Can anyone tell me what type of screws in metric size you used to mount this PJ? I recall my 4805 using M7 screws but can't seem to find this info for the in76.

Thanks!

No one?

They have had mine for over 3 weeks and say there is no issue with it... and well there is... I am so stressed out I should get it ack tommorow. I will update whether they fixed mine, even though they said they could find nothing wrong with the picture...

I have an IN76 connected to a PS3 via HDMI and am trying to watch Blu-Ray discs at 24 fps but when I set the PS3 to output 1080p at 24hz the video flickers and is not entirely synced with itself... This projector is supposed to support 1080p/24... Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks!
The projector supports 1080p, but converts it to 720p. You should change the PS3 output to 720p.

I've been noticing alot of light spill around the 16x9 panel particulary during dark scenes while watching movies here lately on my IN76. I think I would have noticed this before had it been there.

I can't see where it could be spilling out from as everything looks secure. Seems to be coming from within via the lense itself.

Anyone share this experience?

I have always had an edge of lightness accross the top and bottom of my screen. It is due to the fact that the panel on the IN76 is actually 768x1280 rather than 720x1280. Those 48 pixels (24 on top and 24 on the bottom) and not completely black. A nice velvet screen border can ususally conceal them.

Is that what you're seeing?

The light that I am seeing surrounds outside the screen panel. I think what you are describing is the image within the 16x9 panel?

The projector supports 1080p, but converts it to 720p. You should change the PS3 output to 720p.

Hello,

so I will get 24p output when I change the video mode to 720p (720p/24)? Is this also available via HDMI? Did someone tested this modus with the IN78?

Thanks!

Udo

Can someone give me a sense of whether I might be satisfied with an IN74? I'm stuck on whether I want to compromise resolution for color and optical sharpness (compared to the low-end 720p DLPs).

I've analyzed it to death. I know the pixels per inch of my proposed IN74 setup (14.6, if you're wondering). I know most of the variables at work, but I haven't seen any of the IN series in action.

For me, the big impetus to upgrade has been SDE/resolution. I haven't had a PJ setup for a while due to moving to a new house (too many projects), but I'm coming from an X1 at about 1.9 screen widths, at which point SDE was borderline tolerable, but I yearned for more detail in wide shots in 16:9 material and always found 2.35:1 movies to lack vertical resolution.

With the IN74, I'd sit at about 1.6 screen widths. If I go native 720p, I'd go closer. With the 576p chip having 50% higher resolution than 480p native, that's a nice jump, but 720p is 50% higher again over 576p.

I've found this post (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8530641#post8530641) from BobL to be helpful, even though I'm not considering an HD70.

I could stretch for the IN76, as well, but there are more tempting options in that range, IMO. I've always liked Infocus for their reliability, out of the box color accuracy, and D65 brightness. I'm just not going to let any fanboyishness talk me into a bad decision. ;)

Well I would think you would at least want to move up to a 720p projector. I haven't seen a IN74 outside of a store, so my comparison to my IN76 may not be fair. But to me the IN76 seemed a step up in clarity, contrast and color accuracy. I have friends in the area with HD70 and an Epson 500. I prefer the IN76 to both. Though for it's price the HD70 is a wonderful unit.

...I'm not considering an HD70.

Wise move. I've seen the HD70 in action, and wouldn't trade my IN72 for one in a million years. Though if I did own the HD70, I'd probably watch far less, thus extending my bulb life 10-fold. ;) I thought there was some agreement a while back that the IN74 wasn't worth the premium over the IN72, but I could be wrong. Since you're coming up all the way from the ancient X1, nearly anything might seem like a big improvement (except the HD70, since you're used to true color representation). If you're considering a significant step up, the Marantz seems to be very popular right now.

With all the closeouts on higher end 720 PJs right now I wouldn't choose an IN74 over them for near the same price. I would take the IN74 over the budget 720s even if I had to pay a little more. I'm surprised we haven't seen any closeout deals on the IN74.

Bob

With all the closeouts on higher end 720 PJs right now I wouldn't choose an IN74 over them for near the same price.

Agreed. In this market I wouldn't even consider a 576p projector OR a budget 720p model unless you are on a strict shoestring budget. I've seen prices for great projectors like the Sharp XVZ12000 mkII, IF IN76, and IF 7210 recently that are just ridiculously cheap. And at reputable places too...

My projector (IN76) died one night on me. I am in Canada, and unfortunately it took nearly three months to get it back. Since getting it back, I have discovered that I have what looks like dust blobs or smudges on the lens or something else inside. On black/spacey backgrounds, I can see two grapefruit sized white/grey blurs on the very bottom of the screen. When other colors or bright areas come on the screen, I see no problems. This problem must have been caused by the techs servicing the unit.

I have called customer support (which is absolutely some of the worst phone support I have ever encountered). They told me to send it back in and the problem will be rectified. I know this is going to take another month plus (even though they are stating that it will take 8 days max). I am trying to get them to put that in writing for me.

And since tonight, I am questioning what happens when a bulb starts dimming. Here is my general problem. On DVD especially, when I there are dark scenes (nighttime etc), the picture doesn't look dark... it looks washed out, desaturated and low contrast. In vibrant light or normal light scenes ... very vibrant results.

I have also noticed on a couple shows in HD, that skin can look a little blotchy (colors have a little banding and gradients don't look as smooth... almost as if they have been colored with a marker). I have tried to look around other channels to see if this was source material or just projected image issues. I never noticed this before and have used the projector for 700-800 hours projecting on a 96" Stewart screen.

That leaves me with these questions:

Does a dimming bulb make dark images less contrasty and desaturated?
Can a dimming bulb affect color gradients?
Does this sound like normal wear on the bulb?
Are these problems likely to get worse over time?


Thanks for the help.

Wise move. I've seen the HD70 in action, and wouldn't trade my IN72 for one in a million years. Though if I did own the HD70, I'd probably watch far less, thus extending my bulb life 10-fold. ;) I thought there was some agreement a while back that the IN74 wasn't worth the premium over the IN72, but I could be wrong. Since you're coming up all the way from the ancient X1, nearly anything might seem like a big improvement (except the HD70, since you're used to true color representation). If you're considering a significant step up, the Marantz seems to be very popular right now.

Hmm that's an interesting take on the HD70. I found that after we calibrated it and toned down BC it produces a rather nice picture. It's scaler isn't the best, but for the money it seems to be a great value. And the jump in resolution is certainly worth consideration. Still if you can find any of the projectors Jeff mentions at reasonable prices, then that is a better route than the Optoma.

From a distance, resolution isn't as big a factor as some people tend to think. My IN72 is absolutely killer from 16'-18'. It's black level, color accuracy and brightness far outweigh the resolution jump. Would I prefer 720 or 1080, of course, but the it would have to be at least as good as the IN72's other qualities before I'd think the switch was worthwhile. Perhaps I'll try an IN76 if the deal's right.

From a distance, resolution isn't as big a factor as some people tend to think. My IN72 is absolutely killer from 16'-18'. It's black level, color accuracy and brightness far outweigh the resolution jump. Would I prefer 720 or 1080, of course, but the it would have to be at least as good as the IN72's other qualities before I'd think the switch was worthwhile. Perhaps I'll try an IN76 if the deal's right.

Thanks to one of most knowledgeable honest Avs'r GEEK I know BobL. (great guy ):D
I was fortunate to try the IN76 side by side with the IN72.

BobL was nice enough to loan me a fairly new In76 on a football Sunday.
I sat down with a bunch of novice Pj geeks and shot the image with a Sammy H260F via Dvi on my cheap 120 screen .We noticed a little brighter & crisper image wit hd TV ( due to the higher res ) .I saw very little improvement ( if any ) with standard DVD's as well , to say the least I really did not see ANY reason to retire the IN72 as of yet . :mad:

Thanks Again BobL ( by the way I think I'm going to have you calibrate my next Pj )

I owe yaa.


Cheers Murphy:)

It is insane to pass up on high end closeouts of 720P that are happening now at less than the original MSRP of the IN72/SP4805 - unless of course your screen/seating just does not take advantage of 720P as it was designed for 480P. All of these PJ's were designed to originally sell near $$K - those PJ's designed to sell for $K are no competition.

The list of 720P that are greater than or equal to the image quality of IN72/SP4805 - is damn short. IN76/IN78. Anything else you are sacrificing something - be it OOTB D65 or lumens.

You will not have this opportunity again until high end 1080P gets closeout sales because Digital Cinema 4K displaced it in the market. Which is unlikely to happen as long as Hollywood uses 4K as the carrot to get you to the multiplex.

-Murphy

To offer a counterpoint, looking at an HD DVD vs. it's SD DVD counterpart on my IN76 there is no doubt whatsoever about which you are looking at. The resolution jump is immediately noticeable. SD DVD looks very soft and muddy by comparison. I can't say why our experiences differ widely here, but even people who know nothing about A/V easily picked out and were amazed by the difference the HD source made on my 110" screen. I'm baffled as to how the IN76 in question simply didn't shine with HD material. Oh well.

-Murphy

To offer a counterpoint, looking at an HD DVD vs. it's SD DVD counterpart on my IN76 there is no doubt whatsoever about which you are looking at. The resolution jump is immediately noticeable. SD DVD looks very soft and muddy by comparison. I can't say why our experiences differ widely here, but even people who know nothing about A/V easily picked out and were amazed by the difference the HD source made on my 110" screen. I'm baffled as to how the IN76 in question simply didn't shine with HD material. Oh well.

We did not compare HD DVD's at all ( I don't have a HD player yet ) .As to Hd TV ( football games ) we notice a small difference.
But not enough to upgrade my in72 to the in76 .Believe me I wish I did as BobL offered me a GREAT price on the IN76 unit and I had money burning a hole in my pocket and I was just itching for a new toy.

Cheers


Murphy:)

It is insane to pass up on high end closeouts of 720P that are happening now at less than the original MSRP of the IN72/SP4805 - unless of course your screen/seating just does not take advantage of 720P as it was designed for 480P. All of these PJ's were designed to originally sell near $$K - those PJ's designed to sell for $K are no competition.

The list of 720P that are greater than or equal to the image quality of IN72/SP4805 - is damn short. IN76/IN78. Anything else you are sacrificing something - be it OOTB D65 or lumens.

You will not have this opportunity again until high end 1080P gets closeout sales because Digital Cinema 4K displaced it in the market. Which is unlikely to happen as long as Hollywood uses 4K as the carrot to get you to the multiplex.


I totally agree with your statement .

Upgrading to a new Old stock discontinued unit is the way to go ( take advantage of yesterdays top Pj that have proven their performance and reliability).

The Sharp 12000 MKII was on my list when a first saw it for $1387 on buy .
I wasn't so upset with the high dbs the low lumens killed the deal as I need a 120 screen .

Next was the Marantz Vp4001 but is a short throw Pj.(and I needed long).

Tiger sold out of the sammy's .

I was all set to pull the trigger on the woot deal on the vintage but proven SP-7210 for $1099 +5 bucks shipping .(with the full two year factory warranty).
Problem is I asked woot a few question Via email and their customer service ( if that's what you want to call it ) never got back to me. ( I'll get it next time )

I know Infocus sold Woot A POOP load of the sp-7210's (all infocus had left in storage ) and WOOT only sold a total of 86 units .( probably the lowest volume daily sale Woot has had to date)

Woot is definitely going to have sp-7210's on again ( REAL SOON ) and I would beet even at a lower price then the last $1099.
So if your interested in upgrading to a yet ( louder then norm) but a great upgrade from the IN72 keep an eye out for woot.( they are by the way a authorized infocus dealer).
just real ****** when it comes to ANY customer service.

I would stay clear of fleay bay buying As the warranty is voided and how knows what your going to get .Plus your unable to take advantage of the MACY 3year 2 bulb deal due to buying third part.

cheers

Murphy:)

We did not compare HD DVD's at all ( I don't have a HD player yet ) .As to Hd TV ( football games ) we notice a small difference.
But not enough to upgrade my in72 to the in76 .Believe me I wish I did as BobL offered me a GREAT price on the IN76 unit and I had money burning a hole in my pocket and I was just itching for a new toy.

Cheers


Murphy:)

Well I can't attest to the off air signal, but if you go HD DVD or BD I think you would be very happy with the move to the IN76. I haven't had one person when I flip between King Kong HD vs. SD not immediately pick the HD version (they usually say something that rhymes with "moley bit"). The amount of detail it picks up is striking. One thing about your demo, the IN76 scaler likes to be fed a 1080 signal and will generally outperform scalers in other devices. For instance my friend with the HD70 feeds it 720p from his HD DVD player as it looks better than feeding it 1080 and letting the HD70 scale it. In my case the IN76 looks much better feeding it 1080i and letting the projector scale it.

Well I can't attest to the off air signal, but if you go HD DVD or BD I think you would be very happy with the move to the IN76. I haven't had one person when I flip between King Kong HD vs. SD not immediately pick the HD version (they usually say something that rhymes with "moley bit"). The amount of detail it picks up is striking. One thing about your demo, the IN76 scaler likes to be fed a 1080 signal and will generally outperform scalers in other devices. For instance my friend with the HD70 feeds it 720p from his HD DVD player as it looks better than feeding it 1080 and letting the HD70 scale it. In my case the IN76 looks much better feeding it 1080i and letting the projector scale it.

I'm not disputing the fact HD DVD's will look better on the IN76.Don't get me wrong the IN76 was nice just not nice enough for me to swap out my in72.
If I upgrade its going to be a dark chip3 720 long throw with 1000 lumens at least.

cheers

Murphy:)

If I upgrade its going to be a dark chip3 720 long throw with 1000 lumens at least.

cheers

Murphy:)

Well it's darn hard to argue with that. I'm sure you'll love that piece of equipment. Now if only Infocus had a competitor to the Optoma HD80.

Thanks to one of most knowledgeable honest Avs'r GEEK I know BobL. (great guy ):D
I was fortunate to try the IN76 side by side with the IN72.

BobL was nice enough to loan me a fairly new In76 on a football Sunday.
I sat down with a bunch of novice Pj geeks and shot the image with a Sammy H260F via Dvi on my cheap 120 screen .We noticed a little brighter & crisper image wit hd TV ( due to the higher res ) .I saw very little improvement ( if any ) with standard DVD's as well , to say the least I really did not see ANY reason to retire the IN72 as of yet . :mad:

Hi Murphy, one thing you didn't mention was your viewing distance from your 120" screen.

I upgraded from the 4805 to the IN76, and one thing that I think is indisputable is that the IN76 is substantially smoother at closer viewing distances. The same would hold true of any 720p DLP. Viewed at 2x screen width, the differences between the 2 PJs for SD material was subtle. At 1.4x width, it was profound. At that distance the 4805 is blocky and course, with obvious pixellation. The IN76 is still smooth and the image is cohesive. So it really comes down to how close you want to sit to the screen and how immersive an experience you want. That would be the main reason to upgrade for SD material.

And of course with native HD material the difference is greater. The IN76 with a high quality HD-DVD has given me more videophile-geeky thrills than the 4805 ever could with SD DVD (or HDTV for that matter). :)

What Jeff said.

I was looking around for a small LCD TV yesterday and saw a Blu-Ray demo of M.I. III playing. I thought it was a 3D game for a few seconds. I thought I was looking through the camera lens as the action happened, just amazing. I'd seen Blu-Ray and HD-DVD quite a few times before, but that particular combo was truly stunning. Wish this format war thing would just go away. They're shooting themselves in the foot again, just like DVD-A vs SACD.

Hi Murphy, one thing you didn't mention was your viewing distance from your 120" screen.

:)

Jeff Your correct ( I should have shared the Info ):o

Some Of the Pj geeks sat aproxomently 17 feet away from the 120inch Elite screen and other ( including myself ) sat around 15ft.

Cheers..
Murphy:)

I currently have the IN76 setup to a 6.1 receiver. I haven't been able to find a definite answer on how well the PS3 and IN76 work together. Some threads say it works fine and others say it doesn't work at all.

I would be buying the PS3 for its blue ray. Would I be better off just buying a blue ray player? How does the 1080p look in comparison to the 720p on the IN76?

I currently have the IN76 setup to a 6.1 receiver. I haven't been able to find a definite answer on how well the PS3 and IN76 work together. Some threads say it works fine and others say it doesn't work at all.

I would be buying the PS3 for its blue ray. Would I be better off just buying a blue ray player? How does the 1080p look in comparison to the 720p on the IN76?
David,

I briefly hooked up a PS3 to my IN76. I played a few games and watched a little of a BR 1080 movie (Apollo 13). The picture was stunning! You could definitely see the clarity.

We were comparing it to a Panny 1000U 1080p (setup in the same room). The Panny did look sharper and had ZERO SDE (compared to the IN76 which did have SDE when standing close to the screen). Did the Panny look better than the IN76 -- yes, but I would say other than the SDE (when standing close to the screen), it still held it's own on picture quality. IMO, watching HD movies really brought out the quality of my IN76. It was funny, we popped in a SD movie after watching Apollo 13 on BR and it was a night and day difference. HD really gets you spoiled.

I really do not see how you would have any issues using the PS3 with an IN76 for both games and BR movies.

Hi all. Anyone feeding their IN76 or IN78 a 1080p/24 signal from their HD deck? Is it smoother that 720p/60 or are you having issues? Any input would be appreciated.

Don

:D

76, 78, or 7210 owners,
I own the 4805 and bought a non-Infocus 720p. I'm not seeing any improvement except for the amount of detail with HD content. Does this mirror your experience, if you owned a 4805 or other good 480p pj? I'm just wondering if I would have had a similar experience with an Infocus 720p. I should have stayed with Infocus, so I wouldn't have to be wondering, "what if..." The 4805 still throws a great picture, but it's just too dark. I need to get something else. My 720p is new enough to sell it if I move now. I appreciate your feedback.

The 4805 was a benchmark in quality/cost and the InFocus 72/76 improved on that. I suspect it's the pj not the source that's bugging you.

The IN76 is a HD IN72 which is a SP4805 in a new case. Nuff said.

The IN76 is a HD IN72 which is a SP4805 in a new case. Nuff said.

Kras.

How would you compare the IN76 to the SP-7210.

Is it worth the $400.savings ( buying the SP7210 )

Murphy:)

Guys I have the IN76 and when sending 1080/24p from my Playstation 3 I get severe judder and screen tearing. When I hit pause everything looks normal, but as soon as the film is playing, I'm getting those symptoms.

This does NOT happen with doing 1080/60p, only when 24p is enabled.

Firmware for IN76 is 2.8
Firmware for the PS3 is 1.93

why would you feed it 1080p instead of the native 720?
blurays look great output at 720 from the ps3.

why would you feed it 1080p instead of the native 720?
blurays look great output at 720 from the ps3.

It's a question of which scaler does the better job taking the image from 1080 to 720. In my case the IN76 does a better job than my A1 HD DVD player. The best test is to try it both ways and see which one does a better job. My guess is that the Pixelworks scaler, which is optimized for 1080 content, will outperform the PS3.

It's a question of which scaler does the better job taking the image from 1080 to 720. In my case the IN76 does a better job than my A1 HD DVD player. The best test is to try it both ways and see which one does a better job. My guess is that the Pixelworks scaler, which is optimized for 1080 content, will outperform the PS3.

I agree that the Toshiba HD-DVD player looks better set to 1080i than it did at 720p... I thought that was a problem with that specific player. Mine is still set to 1080i.

On the PS3 I set it to all sorts of different settings and found that 720p looks just as good as 1080p when sending to the IN76. The games had weird audio sync issues at the 1080p setting that went away when I set the PS3 to 720p.

J

Can you folks trying playing a Blu-ray in 24p and tell me if you get the same judder?

I posted in the main forum, but I thought I might throw my problem out here as well. I just bought a Monoprice Universal Mount for my IN72 and have NO f**king clue how to install the stupid arms to the bottom of the projector. Can anybody help me out... I've already spent a frustrating couple hours tinkering and searching the web...

Can you folks trying playing a Blu-ray in 24p and tell me if you get the same judder?

I have the same judder when playing 1080/24p by BDP-S1 to IN76, and look what Infocus support answered:

"Hello Orlando Jose,
According to your resolution problem, it seems that your Blueray player is the one not capable of outputting
The resolution you want. Our projector IN76 is about 2yrs old (works fine) and you could look around for a blueray player that
Can project the resolution output you want.
Sorry, there is noting I can do from my part.
I apologize the inconvenience this problem might of cause.

Eden Cortez Technical Support
PHONE
FAX
800.294.6400
503.685.7239

27500 SW PARKWAY AVE
WILSONVILLE, OREGON 97070-9215"

We can put pressure on the Infocus if more owners of the projector IN76 claim the same problem.

Hmm well I live near Wilsonville, maybe I can write to them.

Hmm well I live near Wilsonville, maybe I can write to them.

I still don't know why the IN76 needs to be able to do this. You are looking at 720p at the end of the line no matter what you do.

J

The win is in the 24Hz playback (that's what the 24 in 1080p/24 refers to) not the 1080p resolution. That avoids the 3:2 pulldown required when you play back at 60Hz (google "3:2 pulldown" for more info). In theory that should yield a smoother image during pans and motion.

The win is in the 24Hz playback (that's what the 24 in 1080p/24 refers to) not the 1080p resolution. That avoids the 3:2 pulldown required when you play back at 60Hz (google "3:2 pulldown" for more info). In theory that should yield a smoother image during pans and motion.

Ok. In the name of research I will try this when I get home.
The Ratchet & Clank game I bought the other day force loaded PS3 version 1.94 and my projector is running firmware 2.8

What versions are you guys using that result in the judder/stutter issue?
J

Ok. In the name of research I will try this when I get home.
The Ratchet & Clank game I bought the other day force loaded PS3 version 1.94 and my projector is running firmware 2.8

What versions are you guys using that result in the judder/stutter issue?
J

Results in. It stutters when forced to play at /24.
1080p on it's own plays just fine to the IN76, but I can't tell the difference between the PS3 set to 720p or the PS3 set to 1080p. (They both look great)

Does the /24 setting require special discs that are encoded for it? Or is this just meant to improve everything across the board if it works?

Bennutt, it's supposed to improve panning(making movement much smoother). Remember film is at 24 fps so you're playing back at the original framerate. I can try to accomplish the same thing with my HTPC via HD-DVD, but for some reason I have issues enabling different refresh rates in Vista. Anyway bennutt you can tell in the source info whether it's enabled or not. Normally it should be 60, if it's 24 or a multiple(48, 72) then you're getting the 24p playback.

BTW Bennut I noticed you're in Portland, I just moved to Salem from Manhattan, NY. Where's all the rain I keep hearing about?

Guy's I'm getting the 40GB PS3 Friday, so I'll test again, but why is this juddering?

It rained all last week. Enjoy the last gasp of summer and prepare for nine months of rain. It rarely snows - it rains. But the weather reports try to disguise it as being different every day, showers, sprinkles, storms, greyskies, cloudy p/sunny. I had to laugh when the papers forecast was rain, rain, rain, rain, rain, rain, and finally more rain.

It is impossible to play video without stuttering at 24P - it does not gozinta 30P. It is only for film based material - not even for the DVD extras. Not for video games.

Ok guys I finally got the $399 40GB PS3(as well as 4 $99 Toshiba HD-DVD players!) and I'm forcing 24p playback. In the source it clearly says vertical refresh 24hz, horizontal refresh 26.997 and pixel clock is 74.241.

I noticed that's there's a line I can see scrolling horizontally. We really should get to the bottom of this. I mean the 24hz does work, just incorrectly. If you look at the specs page it clearly states 1080/24p is supported.

http://www.infocus.com/Products/Projectors/IN76.aspx

Hi all
I've been reading this forum for years and finally decided to join! Just sold my X1 that gave me 4 years of enjoyment in my basement HT. Need your help on deciding on which 720p to go with. I think I've narrowed it down to 2 DLP machines, Infocus IN76 or the Optoma HD7100. I know the basic differences DC2 vs. DC3, lens offset/throw etc. My room setup is: matte white 80" x 45" screen, 87" ceiling height, 2 rows of seating, room length= 16'4", dark red walls, screen wall is flat black and white ceiling tile. Sony upconverting DVD player with Expressvu(Canada) HDTV reciever.

Any advise would be great!

My IN 72 looks great from 16' + on the same screen size, so I'd expect the IN76 to look even better. It might help you to know the InFocus 72/76 pj's need little if any calibration.

[QUOTE=Notti;12009024]76, 78, or 7210 owners,
I own the 4805 and bought a non-Infocus 720p. I'm not seeing any improvement except for the amount of detail with HD content. Does this mirror your experience, if you owned a 4805 or other good 480p pj? I'm just wondering if I would have had a similar experience with an Infocus 720p. I should have stayed with Infocus, so I wouldn't have to be wondering, "what if..." The 4805 still throws a great picture, but it's just too dark. I need to get something else. My 720p is new enough to sell it if I move now. I appreciate your feedback.[/QUOTE

Did you buy the AX200u?
I´m planning to upgrade my 4805 too, but do not want to spend $300 more on the IN76...

Im from argentina, and i need ur help! because i need to make a choise.

I want to buy a pj to see only 480p dvds, but i dont know if its better to buy the in72 or the in74.

The distance its about 3.80 meters,
I know that in74 has 3000:1 contrast vs 2000:1 of in72, and for the same distance i can see bigger image size.
But the problem its that i dont know in which pj i will see better image, beucase the in74 has to upscaling to 576p.

i dont know what to do :(
in72 or in74?

thanks

ok....... THANKS..

Im from argentina, and i need ur help! because i need to make a choise.

I want to buy a pj to see only 480p dvds, but i dont know if its better to buy the in72 or the in74.

The distance its about 3.80 meters,
I know that in74 has 3000:1 contrast vs 2000:1 of in72, and for the same distance i can see bigger image size.
But the problem its that i dont know in which pj i will see better image, beucase the in74 has to upscaling to 576p.

i dont know what to do :(
in72 or in74?


thanks

IN72.

ok....... THANKS..

I did reply to your post, though perhaps not in the short time you were hoping for. Sarcasm will typically get you nothing in return.

Anybody know, does the IN76 support 10-bit 4:2:2 component or 12-bit 4:2:0 component HDMI?

IN76 has One word today: Woot!

I'd appreciate opinions on my possibly switching from my IN72 (900 hours and never any issues) to the IN76. Is it worth the extra say... $500 difference) after I sell my 72 for the 76?

I have mine ceiling mounted 14' from the screen and usually sit 17-18' back. I need a 32" LCD TV, which I expect will cost $800 - $1100, depending on model/brand and am debating whether the money is better spent toward that instead of changing from the 72 to the 76. I've been figuring on find a lightly used 1080p SONY SXRD pj once the IN72 bites the dust.

(There's a little time pressure to buy today)

I'd appreciate opinions on my possibly switching from my IN72 (900 hours and never any issues) to the IN76. Is it worth the extra say... $500 difference) after I sell my 72 for the 76?

I have mine ceiling mounted 14' from the screen and usually sit 17-18' back. I need a 32" LCD TV, which I expect will cost $800 - $1100, depending on model/brand and am debating whether the money is better spent toward that instead of changing from the 72 to the 76. I've been figuring on find a lightly used 1080p SONY SXRD pj once the IN72 bites the dust.

(There's a little time pressure to buy today)

That's a tough call Martin. You don't mention what you'll be feeding the projector, so it may or may not be worth it. I'd say if you are feeding it purely SD material you probably won't see much benefit. From 17-18' back you shouldn't be seeing any screen door with either projector. And that far back from a 720p display you may not see much of a resolution jump if you have a smaller screen. Now with a decent sized screen (say 110" or larger) and some good HD material, I would imagine that you will see a nice boost in resolution.