View Full Version : Theater Construction (as yet unnamed)


RedArt
12-31-05, 02:04 AM
Hi everyone and thanks for all the help I've gotten already to get to the point of at least planning my first theater. This is the thread I'll use to post updates on my progress. I am not sure yet what I will be doing (maybe all of it) and what I will subcontract out. Also, I will be finishing about 800 sq ft of basement all told, so my schedule is to have it done in a year from January 1st.

First off, I have just finished my basic layout diagram for the 57th time. I end up with a theater that is 19'6" deep by 11'6" wide. The pool table must stay (WAF), or I would use a much larger area. The 11'6" width is basically contained by HVAC and support poles I am dealing with in the basement.

I don't have 5 posts so I can't link to my drawing yet, but I will shortly.

I am approaching this as a learning experience and will setup the room from a standpoint of upgradeability. Right now I will be using 5.1, but will prewire for at least 7.1. I plan on "overplanning" for all possible wiring and using PVC with wire pulls for all drops.

What I have:
Infocus LP540 projector (new, got it so cheap I can't complain)
Optoma 106" 16:9 Greywolf screen (again, too cheap to pass up)

What I plan on:
Polk R30 for L & R, Polk R15 for surrounds.
Subwoofer and Center channel TBD.
Two rows of 3 seats (most likely Coaster Showtime)
Buttkickers? Maybe. Will wire for them in case.
I am planning at this point to do a true drywall ceiling in the theater and a drop ceiling elsewhere.
Planning on a Navy Blue color scheme with GOM over acoustic treatments on the walls.
Dricor for all finished floors.
External venting to projector and equipment closet.
No real issues with sound containment in the room.
Bass traps? Still need to figure it out.
Equipment Closet is under the stairs.
Completely unsure as to what equipment will go in there.

I'll post here and keep you updated. As soon as I clear out the basement of "stuff" I'll post some before pictures.

My schedule is to pull permits in the first week of January, and get the basement ready for construction by the second week. By then I will have decided whether I think the 1 year old and the 3 year old are going to allow me enough time to do the framing myself or if I want to hire it out and just get it done.

Thanks for all the planning help the past few months (even though you didn't know it) and thanks for all the future help!

No Clue
12-31-05, 09:26 AM
It sounds like you have a really nice theater planned. I'm looking forward to the pics.
As far as your center channel goes, I would stay with the polks for timbre matching.

Maybe your wife would go for more space if you showed her what some of the nicer theaters on the forum look like. Or perhaps you could take her to a local high end A/V dealer that has a nice theater setup. My wife loves the theater and really enjoys watching movies there.

Digital Man
12-31-05, 10:22 AM
I'll be curious to see your drawings when you can post them, as my theater I'm designing right now is almost exactly the same size, and my AV closet will be under the stairs as well. I hope to have mine ready to post soon.

Brian OC
12-31-05, 01:06 PM
Good luck on your construction! After months of reading on this forum, I'm about 2 weeks away from getting the framing started. Looking forward to the pics and look for my construction thread in the near future!

Brian

JustinS
12-31-05, 01:28 PM
Good luck on the year thing. I am rapidly approaching 2 years since I started. :( The good news is that I am on the homestretch with waterproofing, some demolition, framing, wiring, Dricore floors, and drywall almost done. I kept finding myself working on it like gangbusters for a few weeks and then doing nothing for a month or more, rinse, repeat. The completion date was supposed to be in time to watch the last Superbowl in HD on my PJ in the theater instead of upstairs on a HD RPTV. Didn't happen.

My project is almost the same as yours, finishing most of a basement (~850 sq. ft.), broken up into an office, a common area, a closet, and the 11.5'x21' HT.

Piece of advice. Don't start buying stuff for the HT until you are really almost done. You can get a PJ very quickly (if you decide to upgrade yours) and the seating really doesn't take that long. I've had my PJ for 10 months and it has been sitting in a box the whole time, as has the screen. I received my Berkline 090s 8 months ago. I wish I'd waited until I was closer to completion before I'd purchased either, especially the PJ. The audio stuff I already had from my upstairs system.

Guilt trip yourself into doing something on your project at least every week, even if it is for only an hour or so. It is more work than you are likely anticipating.

rameshkr
12-31-05, 09:26 PM
How do your like the polk speakers?

RedArt
12-31-05, 09:53 PM
How do your like the polk speakers?

I listened to them locally and like them a lot, especially the prices I can get them at. As I said, this is a starter and I plan to do major upgrades over time. However, to start I am trying to do the best budget system I can do.

Outpost recently had the R15's for $39.99 +s/h per pair and the R30's for $39.99 each + s/h. They do that deal on each occasionally so as soon as it hits again I will be buying the 4 speakers for less than $150 shipped.

RedArt
12-31-05, 09:54 PM
Until I can get my links to work, I added what is currently in my plan to my sig.

stevennoland
12-31-05, 10:54 PM
Bump on the timbre matching. Ideally you would want the LRC to be all the same speaker, but who lives in an ideal world? Good luck and get them pics posted. Bump a few threads to get to five posts.

RedArt
01-02-06, 11:49 PM
Here are my starting construction pics. I started stapling up the vapor barrier already.

I know what everyone says about not setting up the projector, but I have put the screen up temporarily on what will be the left wall of the theater to keep the three year old busy while I work. It is the ONLY way I can get anything done!

Plans for the basement (http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/507/basement1.jpg)
Stairs to Basement (http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/506/Stairs.jpg)
Pool Room Area (http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/506/pool.jpg)
Theater Area (http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/506/theater.jpg)
Monsters, Inc. (http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/506/monsters.jpg)

The image is just a simple Panasonic HTIB setup temporarily using my LP540 on the GreyWolf screen. It is about 12' away sitting on the box holding my under counter fridge for the bar.

jpa3d
01-03-06, 02:02 AM
RedArt, if I'm not mistaken, I believe the vapor barrier is suppose to go on the inside of the stud walls after unfaced insulation is placed in the cavities.

Jim

JustinS
01-07-06, 02:51 PM
RedArt, if I'm not mistaken, I believe the vapor barrier is suppose to go on the inside of the stud walls after unfaced insulation is placed in the cavities.

Jim

That depends on where he lives. Well into the north, I believe it is standard practice to put it against the foundation wall.

I did part of mine against the foundation (as was demonstrated on a DIY Network show) and later I was corrected about that on here and put the rest inside the studs. I was terrified that the building inspector would make me do part of it over again and was told that my county has no vapor barrier requirement at all. :)

Mr.Tim
01-07-06, 05:29 PM
The vapor barrier goes on the conditioned side of the wall. (In other words, jpa3d is correct)

Tim

JustinS
01-07-06, 11:31 PM
The vapor barrier goes on the conditioned side of the wall. (In other words, jpa3d is correct)

Tim

Not everyone agrees with that. For example:

http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infxtra/infinsul2.shtm


For basement walls, a vapor barrier should be installed on the walls first, before the framing is installed. This common sense step that is often skipped in basement renovations will considerably lessen the migration of moisture through the foundation walls.


Also, like I said above, a DIY network show in finishing basements specifically taught viewers to put it against the foundation wall. Of course, the show finished with the best advice of all: "Consult your local building codes." Anyone reading this or any other building technique thread here would be well-served to follow the same advice.

Having the VB against the foundation wall is actually code in some places. In other places, it is code for it to be on the room side of against the foundation framing. In other places, like my county, it isn't officially required at all. I think (and I could be wrong about this), that in more northerly climates, it is more likely to be code to have the VB against the foundation.

The important thing is to NOT do both, have a VB on both sides of the framed wall (to include not using Kraft-faced insulation if the VB is against the foundation wall.

miltimj
01-08-06, 12:31 AM
That site also says:
A vapor barrier is designed to keep moisture in your home from getting inside your walls.If you have a barrier between the stud space and the exterior, moisture can't escape. It's exactly the opposite of what you'd want.

I can also speak from experience (built 5 apartments, 1 house, and 2 remodels) in a cold climate (Minnesota).

Anyway, I think this might well be considered hijacking the thread, so I'll bring it back on topic..

RedArt, your situation is actually perfect for an Infinite Baffle subwoofer setup, with front-mounted drivers. I'm looking for a basement that I can do that exact setup in, actually. You can research it on the subs forum, and especially here:

http://home.comcast.net/~infinitelybaffled/

jpa3d
01-08-06, 03:55 AM
A plastic vapor barrier is not needed if one is using kraftfaced paper batt insulation and this is always installed paper facing the inside of the room to act as a vapor barrier. That is why unbatted insulation is covered on the inside with plastic to serve as a vapor barrier, it also helps hold the insulation in place before hanging sheetrock. The foundation side of an interior wall needs ventilation.

RedArt
01-08-06, 08:07 AM
I went back and forth on the same issue. Multiple sites listing multiple different answers. I talked to an ex inspector (retired) in this area that I know and he said in this area to do it like this. I will check with the actual inspectors now that it has been brought up here too.

BTW, anyone who is interested, I just bought my R15's for $39.98 + shipping:
R15 at Fry's Outpost for $39.98+shipping (http://shop2.outpost.com/product/3292811?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG)

Mr.Tim
01-08-06, 11:03 AM
I would have to agree that you must follow local building codes. ICC residential code requires the vapor barrier on the conditioned side (ICC residential code adopted in 45 states) of the wall. Right or wrong, the building code in your area will tell you how to install a vapor barrier-- there is no debate. If you feel you want to install the barrier a certain way because you have read about it and think a certain method is better than another, just call your building department and ask, "Can I install the vapor barrier in a basement in this manner..."

Here in NY they are going to start requiring the vapor barrier to be overlapped at least 1 stud cavity and the seam to be caulked.

As a personal preference, I would advise against kraft faced insulation due to the number of breaks it creates in the vapor barrier.

Tim

GranTheaterO
01-08-06, 11:49 PM
The whole vapor barrier issue is really crazy. I just recently built a house in Wisconsin with pretty strict codes for our suburb of Milwaukee and I passed rough inspection on Thursday for my basement/HT project.

The inspector said "no vapor barrier". I have partial exposure, which has a vaopr barrier installed in the 2x6 wall.

I think the theory, at least in my case is that my basement walls are insulated on the outside and that's the area that will see the greatest amount of temperature differential and that will be near the top of the wall of course.

Insulation on my basement walls:
http://images15.fotki.com/v264/file1mnZ/d348d/8/821852/3067921/House092503K.jpg

My HT is framed with 3" between the block and the framed wall and will naturally vent with my layout. I'm still a little nervous about the other framed walls with no gap.

Good luck with your project.

Dave

RedArt
01-12-06, 02:21 PM
Okay, vapor barrier against the foundation checks out with code. I just have to make sure not to use faced insulation or any other vapor barrier at all.

Also...thanks to Roman at Ultimate Home Entertainment (a member here) I was able to get better seating than I ever thought I would. It will be arriving WAY earlier than anticipated, but I ended up with two rows of 3 Berkline 090's. One row will have power recline...that was all the wife would budge on budget for me. But heck, I am not spending too much over budget and I have much better seating than I thought was possible. Thanks for the help Roman!

RedArt
03-02-06, 12:20 AM
Well, I have accomplished a little bit.

On the stairwell here, I have knocked out the framing to open up the right side wall. I'll be installing a bannister at the bottom as opposed to having it all walled up. That way it will look more open, there will be more room for playing pool in the room to the right and basically just because.

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/507/wall.JPG

Also, most of the exterior framing is done. Here is a picture to the left at the bottom of the stairs. A small "kid's area" and the half bath will be here.

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/507/bathroom.JPG

And I have started on the DriCore floor. It is about halfway done. Here is a picture of the pool table area. I am just about to move into the theater area. Hope to complete that this weekend.

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/507/floor1.jpg

And now, it is time to get some sleep. This late night construction gets old, but with the 3 year old and 1 year old, it is the only time I can get things done. Thinking of taking a week off work just to finish a bunch of it off.

RedArt
08-10-06, 09:57 AM
I will post pics later, but I hired an HVAC company to come in and increase my headroom by moving my cold air return and trunk line.

I got estimates for the same to similar work in the range of $700-$2500. Seems to vary wildly and randomly.

DriCore floor is done.

After the HVAC is done today, I will start soffits. When that is done, I will wire and I am having someone do drywall after that.

Paying for the HVAC and drywalling. Two things I didn't really want to tackle myself.

VorlonFog
08-10-06, 10:51 AM
Spend a few bucks for the pros get it done quickly and right, and save your energy for the jobs you know you can knock out. Besides, it gives you more time to spend with the wife and kids. ;)

Cocophone
08-10-06, 08:10 PM
My vote is to put the vapor barrier on the concrete side. My reasoning is that any moisture that gets into the wall will dry towards the inside. If you have a vapor barrier on the inside the moisture will get trapped inside the wall leading to rot and mold.

RedArt
08-11-06, 12:35 AM
Well, it's done. Total Cost $734.

I still don't have a lot of height at the screen, but I needed more room over my riser, so I had to do it.

Before:
http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/506/before.JPG
http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/506/before2.JPG

RedArt
08-11-06, 12:38 AM
After:
http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/506/after.JPG

This will give me about 10 extra inches. (Always wanted to say that.)

Shots from the riser:
Before:
http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/506/riserbefore.JPG

After:
http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/506/RiserAfter.JPG

RedArt
08-11-06, 12:40 AM
Last progress picture. The Dricore is done in the theater area and the riser is in progress.

The wall to the theater is basically the last framing left and will run butted up against the riser. (The posts are outside the theater.)
http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/506/DricoreRiser.JPG

GranTheaterO
08-12-06, 11:52 AM
Nice job, great pictures.

RedArt
08-18-06, 08:41 PM
Thanks Gran, nice job so far on your theater.

I got our carpet sample in the mail today. I think the wife has decided that this is it. Now I need to get some Emerald and Black GOM fabrics to match it.

The picture is reasonably accurate. The black could be a bit blacker though. It is called Landscape BrushArt. Will be installing with memory foam pad and will run about $1300 with installation for the 12x20 room

http://www.pawlickis.com/brushart.jpg

RedArt
09-04-06, 01:12 AM
Looks like the carpet has a minor change. Same pattern as above, but blue instead of green. We all like it better.

Progress!!

Soffits are up:
http://www.pawlickis.com/leftsoffit.JPG

http://www.pawlickis.com/rightsoffit.JPG

RedArt
09-04-06, 01:15 AM
These pics are from the "billiards area" off the theater.

http://www.pawlickis.com/outsidetheater.JPG


Entrance to the theater:
http://www.pawlickis.com/entrance.JPG

RedArt
09-04-06, 01:18 AM
I also pulled out the speakers and screen and temporarily mounted the projector at 13' to make sure all my measurements were correct. It all looks good so far!

http://www.pawlickis.com/screenwall.JPG

http://www.pawlickis.com/tempmount.JPG

Next I am doing all my low voltage wiring and electrical. Still need to find a plumber for the half bath across the basement.

I have also decided to go with a Grafik Eye 2404 for my theater lighting. Been doing a lot of reading. Wish me luck!

VorlonFog
09-04-06, 11:28 AM
Looking good so far! Good luck!! (you asked, right? ;) )

gobble
09-04-06, 05:52 PM
Whats the purpose of the dricore floor?

RedArt
09-04-06, 08:01 PM
Whats the purpose of the dricore floor?

Well it does help in terms of moisture, but my basement is VERY dry. The sump hasn't run in the five years we've been in the house.

The real thing is comfort. You put pad and carpet over it and feels more like a natural floor rather than cement. Also, it will help keep the floor warmer. I have a 2yo and 4yo boy and I know there will be plenty of sleepovers in the future and they will want to sleep in sleeping bags in the theater, so it will add to the comfort level for them.

It cost me about $1000 in materials to do the entire basement, including the theater. Installation is extremely easy. You do lose about 7/8" in height though.

There are also people around here who say it will most likely help with acoustics, but that did not factor in for me.

RedArt
10-27-06, 11:21 PM
I am starting electrical. I ordered my lighting for the theater and should have my 2404 Grafik Eye along with all my cans, small halogens and sconces in about 3 weeks. Won't be ready for all of it that quickly, but I am itching to at least have it all in the house.

I also removed the angle bar from the projector mount for a test run. It puts the projector about 2 inches closer to the ceiling.

Having a bit of a website issue right now but my pics will be back shortly. I'll post more when I get it straightened out.

xnaron
10-27-06, 11:35 PM
I am in Canada and well you know we have a reputation for being cold and all... In Canada the vapour barrier is on the drywall side of the studs. Framing in basements is about 1.5" or so from the contcrete wall. Insulation inbetween the studs and then vapour barrier...then drywall...

Brendin

RedArt
01-04-07, 03:00 PM
Well, it took 6 weeks to get my lighting supplies, and with the holidays it has been slow going.

Plumbing roughin is done.

I have changed out my breakers to make more room in my circuit box and added my first 20A run of lights. Next I am doing the other lighting circuit for the main basement area then I move on to wiring for the grafik eye.

Will post pics shortly.

RedArt
03-27-07, 12:12 AM
Okay. Update time.

1) Rough Electrical. Check.
2) Rough Plumbing. Check.
3) Insulation. Check.
4) My Grafik Eye works. (and I didn't burn the house down...yet.)
5) Drywall. Check.
6) Website. Check.
7) Name. Check.

Officially I am now working on the JnT Cinema. My kids (age 4 and 2) decided that was appropriate as their names start with J & T.

here are some current status pics:

Our main room. Wired in two spots for a 42" plasma. It will be in one of the two spots eventually. Kitchen cabinets will be against the wall behind the posts. Just ordered this past weekend.
http://jntcinema.com/images/MainRoom.jpg

Theater Entrance. I am going to do stainless offset letters for the name of the theater on the soffit above the door.
http://jntcinema.com/images/TheaterEntrance.jpg

Screen Wall from the riser. The outlet on the floor is for the rope lighting that will be on the as yet non-existant stage.
http://jntcinema.com/images/ScreenWall.jpg

Pics from the screen wall toward the Riser.
http://jntcinema.com/images/Riser.jpg
http://jntcinema.com/images/Riser2.jpg

Linacoustic is on order. Dywall finishing starts Wednesday night.

Looking to finish by the end of May. Not sure what year yet though.

RedArt
10-13-08, 09:19 AM
Progress. Actually a lot more than this is done, but I will be adding some pics and explanation over the next couple weeks. I am 98% done with the whole project and want to finish the damn thing...

Here is my room with the linacoustic on and the fabric going up. This is the back wall with the riser.
http://jntcinema.com/images/Back%20Wall.JPG

And on to the left side wall heading towards the stage.
http://jntcinema.com/images/Sidewall.JPG

RedArt
10-13-08, 09:21 AM
Here is a pic of the stage before putting on the 3/4" ply.
http://jntcinema.com/images/Stage.JPG

And a pic after with some of the lights in...
http://jntcinema.com/images/StageLights.JPG

RedArt
10-13-08, 09:21 AM
Here is some of the trim finish to cover seams.
http://jntcinema.com/images/trim1.JPG


Trim around the entrance door...
http://jntcinema.com/images/Door.JPG

RedArt
10-13-08, 09:32 AM
Here is a panorama of the bar/sitting area outside the theater. The door next to the counter is the theater entrance.

It has been a lot of work and I will post more pics with the carpet in and the front screen done. I took a tension greywolf screen and ripped the fabric and framed it. (105")

The family is loving it and I have been enjoying it so much I never came back to post pics. I'll have more soon!

http://jntcinema.com/images/Panorama2.JPG