This is happening in the MIDDLE of watching the source. For example, while fast forwarding an HDDVD movie or when switching back from commercial on digital cable.

I don't own your player, but I'd check out your Toshiba's HD-DVD setup options for some type of menu item called "Auto-sync". What could be happening is the HDMI player is trying to talk to the scalar box to get back in sync.

I think the same thing is happening with your cable box. The cable company is dropping the signal for 1/10th of a second so the stations can insert their local commercials - this temporarily breaks the signal and it has to re-sync. It could have just started happening because they've changed their method of communicating with their affiliates.

Hi Guys,

Well, I received the new HD81. I never had any issues with the first one until it decided to not power up any more.

Well, I am experiencing a new issue with the new one. Twice now it has powered down in the middle of watching some content. We were not doing anything but watching. I cannot remember what we were watching the first time but last night it was HD cable tv. My cable box is connected via component cables.

Any ideas as to why the unit might power down? I also have ample space around the scaler.

THanks

Joe

When you say "power down", do you mean that both the VXD and projector lost power immediately or did they turn off with lights still on?

I don't own your player, but I'd check out your Toshiba's HD-DVD setup options for some type of menu item called "Auto-sync". What could be happening is the HDMI player is trying to talk to the scalar box to get back in sync.

I think the same thing is happening with your cable box. The cable company is dropping the signal for 1/10th of a second so the stations can insert their local commercials - this temporarily breaks the signal and it has to re-sync. It could have just started happening because they've changed their method of communicating with their affiliates.
Yeah, I watch this thing enough that there's no way suddenly all sources would start doing this all on the same day. Additionally, after I posted, I realized that its happening even more often as the unit heats up. But it also happens just after powering it on. I am going to call Optoma soon.

Thanks!

Yeah, I watch this thing enough that there's no way suddenly all sources would start doing this all on the same day. Additionally, after I posted, I realized that its happening even more often as the unit heats up. But it also happens just after powering it on. I am going to call Optoma soon.

Thanks!
Any way of testing the HDMI syncing issue by connecting one or both sources via component cables?

When you say "power down", do you mean that both the VXD and projector lost power immediately or did they turn off with lights still on?

Both devices act as if I had clicked the power off button on the remote twice. It goes through the normal power down process.

The blue power light on the proejctor starts blinking, the bulb turns off, and shortly thereafter the projector power light turns red. I can then turn it back on.

Thanks

Joe

If the HD81 loses an HDMI signal for more than 30 seconds it will begin it's power down process. I'd check your cable connections, and we can all stay frustrated at the HDMI creators for not putting locking connectors in the spec.

When you refer to "HDMI signal" are you referring to some sort of control signal? Because the video and audio are fine up to the point of the power down cycle.

Thanks

Joe

Joe,

According to the HD81 manual (page 57)
2. HDMI communication failure. System will show blue image only. Please check HDMI connection between controller box and projector. Or projector will shutdown in 30 seconds if HDMI connection is not restored.

It sounds like you aren't getting a blue screen - just going right to power down cycle.

Stupid questions first:
1) Are you sure one of your kids isn't sitting on the remote?
2) Could you have programmed a macro that has the shutdown in it?
3) Conflicting IR Codes? My Dad bought a cheap DVD player that would shut off his Onkyo receiver whenever he hit the Play button.

After reading the manual again, it doesn't appear to have any mechanism to start a shut down procedure without first getting a blue screen, except for these VERY POORLY WORDED steps in troubleshooting (also Page 57) :
4. The HD81 can’t power on if RS232 between projector and Box
don’t be connect in standby mode
5. The HD81 can’t show HDMI connection fail or not if HD81 is in
standby.
- this is on their website, so you have to love the fact that it's so easy to edit and save a new PDF file, but they just don't seem to care.

So it won't go to blue screen if it somehow got set to standby mode (based on what I think I read). The top left button on the remote will put the projector into standby mode if pressed twice - so will the big round button on the scalar box. That scalar box button through me for a loop once when I pushed it from Off to On, but nothing happened. On my unit if I use the big round button on the scalar to shut off the unit, I always have to push it three times to get the HD81 power up because the button sticks. If nothing else works, I'd definitely depress the button a couple of time to make sure its not half-in.

Last night I posted this on the LV thread. Thought you all might get something out of it.

I may have stumbled upon a reason for at least one cause for unexplained blue screen issues. If you leave the machine set on 48Hz, and try to feed the VXP a 1080i 60 Hz signal, the blue screen will come on at some point thereafter, requiring a reboot. This is repeatable. I wonder if all the inoperative 48Hz circuitry/software, could have been responsible for some of our problems. I believe that Jeff said he does not have a player that puts out 24/48Hz signals, so his lack of a blue screen might be due to this fact. I would like to hear other's thoughts on this.

Toshiba HD-A2 here. No 24Hz signal either. And plus, its doing it on my Explorer 8300HD, as well. GRRR!!! No time to call Optoma so far this week...

Thanks!!

Well, my kids are 28 and 25. They aren't around much anymore ;)

In regards to a IR signal of some sort, I doubt it. I haven't changed any componentry between the 2 projectors. I do use a Xantech IR repeater where the receiver sits at the bottom of the screen and then I use multiple blasters in the equipment closet. With this setup no IR signal can get to the equipment with the exception of the Xantech signal. Up to this point I ahve not had any sporadic IR issues.

I also read taht I should see a blue screen if it loses hdmi signal. So I kind of ruled that out. I did check all of my cables though to make sure they were tight. Because of the bad design I have anchored the cables in their locations near the plug so that the weight of the cables cannot pull the plug out.

I will keep trying to see if I can find a pattern.

Thanks again.

Joe



Joe,

According to the HD81 manual (page 57)
2. HDMI communication failure. System will show blue image only. Please check HDMI connection between controller box and projector. Or projector will shutdown in 30 seconds if HDMI connection is not restored.

It sounds like you aren't getting a blue screen - just going right to power down cycle.

Stupid questions first:
1) Are you sure one of your kids isn't sitting on the remote?
2) Could you have programmed a macro that has the shutdown in it?
3) Conflicting IR Codes? My Dad bought a cheap DVD player that would shut off his Onkyo receiver whenever he hit the Play button.

After reading the manual again, it doesn't appear to have any mechanism to start a shut down procedure without first getting a blue screen, except for these VERY POORLY WORDED steps in troubleshooting (also Page 57) :
4. The HD81 can’t power on if RS232 between projector and Box
don’t be connect in standby mode
5. The HD81 can’t show HDMI connection fail or not if HD81 is in
standby.
- this is on their website, so you have to love the fact that it's so easy to edit and save a new PDF file, but they just don't seem to care.

So it won't go to blue screen if it somehow got set to standby mode (based on what I think I read). The top left button on the remote will put the projector into standby mode if pressed twice - so will the big round button on the scalar box. That scalar box button through me for a loop once when I pushed it from Off to On, but nothing happened. On my unit if I use the big round button on the scalar to shut off the unit, I always have to push it three times to get the HD81 power up because the button sticks. If nothing else works, I'd definitely depress the button a couple of time to make sure its not half-in.

HI,

I also had the constant backlight issue with my remote. Optoma's response to me was that the remote only has a 90 day warranty so I needed to buy a new one.

Is this the truth? Do I need to call and demand a replacement?

The projector was purchased in April 07.

I have a MX3000 remote and a Pronto TSU7000 and can't find remote codes for the HD81 anywhere. None of the other Optoma sets seem to work.

And this projector is in a training room and we have to use a ladder to turn the VXP on since we had to mount it out of the way in the ceiling....nice.







Another update - after some complaining with the Optoma folks, they are sending me a new "freebie" remote. All in all, it looks like the service experience is going to end well, but the process to get there is much longer and more trouble than I expected for a projector at this price point.

Thanks to Jeff Regan for the suggestion around the Optoma Gold service plan. If I were purchasing this projector new and had a sense of the reliability issues with the projector, I would definitely consider the gold service plan at the time of initial purchase. At this point though, I figure I run it for another 6 to 12 months or until it breaks down again, sell it at a heavily discounted price, and upgrade to a different brand. My own business is based around high levels of customer service, so my tolerance for subpar service is pretty low and I would much rather deal with vendors who share my reliability and service expectations than deal with vendors who just do not get it for whatever reason.

The picture is great, but the reliability and service have room for improvement. There must be vendors out there that deliver similar picture quality with better reliability and service.

[QUOTE=bwaz;11968081]HI,


I have a MX3000 remote and a Pronto TSU7000 and can't find remote codes for the HD81 anywhere. None of the other Optoma sets seem to work.

There are no codes for the HD81/URC. Use the learn feature. I was able to get my MX900 to work just fine. The only issue I had was with ON/OFF. I had to hit the HD81 twice with a blast. Be careful as sometimes the HD81 will fail to shut down. I have walked into my theater twice and found the HD81 shooting into the closed curtian!

JK

Thanks for the response JK...problem is the "backlight of death" problem I, and some others, have had means the original remote is DONE.

I have an IR sensor and LED that lights up when it sees IR and it's not seeing anything from the HD81 remote.

So I don't have anything to learn the codes from. Shows what I get for putting off programming the MX :(

I'm just wondering if the others that had the backlight lock had to say anything specific to get Optoma to replace it.


b.




[QUOTE=bwaz;11968081]HI,


I have a MX3000 remote and a Pronto TSU7000 and can't find remote codes for the HD81 anywhere. None of the other Optoma sets seem to work.

There are no codes for the HD81/URC. Use the learn feature. I was able to get my MX900 to work just fine. The only issue I had was with ON/OFF. I had to hit the HD81 twice with a blast. Be careful as sometimes the HD81 will fail to shut down. I have walked into my theater twice and found the HD81 shooting into the closed curtian!

JK

I had a remote failure with one of my '81's. It did nothing including backlighting. Other remotes have frozen but that is always remedied by removing/replacing a battery. This recycles and resets the remote. I am sure you tried this. Optoma was critically short off remotes 6 months ago when I needed a replacement and were not able to send me a new one. Perhaps you should ask for a refurbished remote.

I think I might have just had my color wheel go out, but it might just be the lamp. While watching it suddenly shut down with no message and a blinking lamp light. My lamp shouldn't be anywhere near end of life though since I think it's well under 1000 hours and still very bright. I have power cycled the unit and unplugged it and now it consistantly turns on, repeatedly makes a rising pitch noise like an electric motor spinning up and then stopping, displays some fat grey vertical bars on the screen and then shuts off and blinks the lamp light orange. Since it's still able to put out enough light to show the grey vertical bars I know the lamp isn't 100% dead. Anyone else see these symptoms? I couldn't find any via the search. The fan seems fine, I will try reseating the lamp and maybe cleaning any dust I find next.

Reseating the lamp module did nothing. The interior and lamp appeared clean. Still showing grey bars etc.

Reseating the lamp module did nothing. The interior and lamp appeared clean. Still showing grey bars etc.

Ted,

It's the color wheel. Been there done that. The failure rate of HD81's are astounding. The high pitched whine is the wheel. Time for an RMA, but
know that if you've had the projector for more than three months, you
could wait a while for repairs to be completed. I would recommend purchasing
the Optoma Gold service contract so you can get a hot swap, minimizing
your down time to days vs. weeks.

Ted,

It's the color wheel. Been there done that. The failure rate of HD81's are astounding. The high pitched whine is the wheel. Time for an RMA, but
know that if you've had the projector for more than three months, you
could wait a while for repairs to be completed. I would recommend purchasing
the Optoma Gold service contract so you can get a hot swap, minimizing
your down time to days vs. weeks.
Even if my HD81 never has to be sent back for a fix, I'll never buy another Optoma product. I wonder if Optoma is aware that people spending $5k and up are deciding that Optoma just isn't a brand they want in their homes. They're becoming the Emerson of the projector world and fast.

After 5, you would think I would have experienced everything. Recently I asked for comments from you guys regarding the green "push". It is not unlike the green tinge we see when the "Brilliant Color" is turned on. The gray's are green. The whites are green. It takes a -5 correction of green brightness and green contrast to compensate for the aberration. It is not unlike what one might experience with CRT projectors when the gray scale was not properly adjusted for low brightness levels. One might set the entire gray scale to respond within 500 degrees but experience 1500 to 2000 degree differences below 30 IRE. Quite frustrating. I would sure like to know whether my color wheel is out of whack or whether this is an aging bulb artifact. I do not think it is the bulb. I have about 500 hours on the bulb.

I called Optoma today and they are apparently out of HD81 units and was told not to bother getting the gold service contract because of this. Still waiting on the RMA # so I can go through the normal process. Not very impressed with their support so far, seemed like they just wanted to get me off the line.

Did you talk with Warren?

No, should I ask for him, if so which number? I think I talked to Steven, but I'm terrible with names and forgot to write it down. I got a response from my web form tech support request today at least. They at least included the paperwork for the gold service/hot swap, although they forgot to give me a projector price for one of the forms.

Ask for Warren Pierce. You can also try his email, warren@optoma.com. Please treat him with respect. He has been very good to everyone who has approached him with a problem and we want to keep the door open for future issues which are certain to develop. My dealings with him were always pleasant and productive. I trust yours will be the same. Deal with the situation as it exists right now without rehashing the agony you may have gone through. These guys are just doing their job and like you and I are eager to help a positive person who is trying to get to a better place.

Well, I am experiencing a new issue with the new one. Twice now it has powered down in the middle of watching some content. We were not doing anything but watching. I cannot remember what we were watching the first time but last night it was HD cable tv. My cable box is connected via component cables.

Hi Joe,

I haven't been on the forum for a while so I just saw your post. Did you happen to notice if you also got the blinking blue TEMP LED? When I experience the shutdown, it begins with the TEMP LED blinking blue. About 10 seconds later, the lamp shuts off. The TEMP LED continues to blink blue along with the power LED that always blinks blue during cool down. Did you notice if the TEMP LED was blinking along with the power LED?

I've had a couple new problems occurring. Originally, I only had the power off occur when my video server was operating (whether the projector was connected to it or not!). Because of that, I haven't turned on the video server for months. Now I've had the shutdowns occur when I have been watching cable or a Blu-Ray disc on the PS3. It usually occurs within the first 10 minutes of watching something. If I notice the blinking TEMP LED and pause whatever input I am watching, things go back to normal. Otherwise I need to wait for the whole power down cycle to complete and then power it back up again.

I've just started experiencing two new problems. Sometimes when the unit is powering up, the TEMP LED will blink red indicating "fan fail." Several minutes later it will stop blinking and allow me to start up again. The other new thing I have noticed is an ozone smell after I have been watching a while.

Does anybody have ideas about any of these problems?

Thanks!

Joe

If you check the early comments in this thread, you will see that both Jeff and I reported the smell of which you speak. The shutting down occurred on at least 3 of my 81's. I never could figure out the reason but I speculated dthere was a component experiencing thermal runaway. The fact that the LV does not shut down that way tells me that Optoma engineers found the errant component and replaced it with one that had higher temperature stability specs. We have been suffering with the 81's for over a year now and have never been told the reason for the failures. The fact that they occurred across time and different lots tells me there was a design flaw. The 81's more stable operation suggests that one should look for an LV when considering the 81 design. Except for the green tinge which is correctable, I love my LV.

"We have been suffering with the 81's for over a year now and have never been told the reason for the failures"

Are you forgetting, its was told to you that there was a problem with a board which they found early on. I was told maybe about 300 got out with the old board. Anybody with the problem can or should have before just could send it in the the fix. My how we forget. :)

Tom,

I have not forgotten anything and no, I never heard anything about bad boards. Perhaps you intended to tell me or maybe it occurred in a private communication but no, I do not remember anything about bad boards. I do remember being told that these 81's were the finest thing since sliced bread. I also remember dealing with Warren Pierce directly and receiving 3 81's that were defective in one way or another. I also remember receiving my first LV that was defective and my second LV which is working well. That is what I remember. Perhaps it is you who has forgotten?

Tom,

There comes a point where it just doesn't make sense to defend the indefensible. The reality is that Optoma has serious reliability issues
with many of their products, not just the HD-81. This is a lot more
than a small batch of bad boards on the HD-81 causing temperature
shut downs. This forum is rife with Optoma product problems.

Since this is an HD-81 thread, let's look at some issues suffered by
me personally on three units as well as some common to other owners:

Installation Inflexibility--design flaw, betrays office projector chassis roots.

Auto Iris--design defect, one of the worst implementations ever seen.

Firmware bugs--five versions shipped, wouldn't be so bad except not
upgradeable via net as promised.

HDMI handshake issues

Very slow source switching

Light leak around image

Processor failure--excessive chroma noise in dark areas

Dead pixels

Color Wheel failure

Bluescreens, Shutdowns due to temperature issues, HDMI issues, Film Mode
48Hz issues.

Vertical Lines in image

Remote control failures

Unfortunately, many of the design flaws and some reliability issues have transferred to the HD81-LV.

I'm not sure why you can never bring yourself to admit that Optoma has
design issues and reliability issues, maybe because you sell the product,
maybe because you consider some of the Optoma employees friends(there
are some very nice people who work there--both Milpitas and Taiwan),
but you lose some credibility in my eyes when you are so one sided in
your nothing but glowing Optoma posts. BTW, I also love my HD81-LV.

Firmware bugs--five versions shipped, wouldn't be so bad except not upgradeable via net as promised.This is the one that bugs me the most. Not only were we promised this - in WRITING, but they've already moved on to the HD81LV - seemingly ending any new firmware updates for the HD81.

So Optoma promised this and never delivered. Anyone want to join a class action suit, PM me.

Simple,

I am the last person to defend Optoma but I never saw anything in writing about upgrade ability via the Internet. If I am wrong OK but I never read this.

Tom,

I have not forgotten anything and no, I never heard anything about bad boards. Perhaps you intended to tell me or maybe it occurred in a private communication but no, I do not remember anything about bad boards. I do remember being told that these 81's were the finest thing since sliced bread. I also remember dealing with Warren Pierce directly and receiving 3 81's that were defective in one way or another. I also remember receiving my first LV that was defective and my second LV which is working well. That is what I remember. Perhaps it is you who has forgotten?

Yep we talked about in this or another thread early on, an item inside had to be replaced causing the heat related problem. That's all I really wanted to say. :)

Enjoy your HD81LV's, very nice toke. I know more about the LV which makes it great. Can't be talked about though, just believe me it's big and it's inside the machine. Trick or Treat. :)

Just to be clear, I am on my third HD81 so my current problems couldn't be a result of those early boards. As I mentioned, the current projector recently developed three new problems:

1) Spontaneous power-off after watching any source for a couple minutes. There is no blue screen. The TEMP light blinks blue for a couple seconds then the lamp goes off. If I pause whatever input I am watching as soon as the TEMP light blinks but before the lamp goes off, I am fine. This happens about half the times I use the projector.

2) Sometimes it doesn't complete the power-up sequence. After a few seconds I get a blinking red TEMP light indicating fan failure and the unit shuts down. If I wait through the whole several minute cool down period and start it again, everything is fine.

3) There is an ozone smell after I have been watching for a while. I did do a search on ozone in this thread but didn't see any other references.

I am becoming worried that the projector is nearing a hard failure. Has anyone else who has experienced similar problems found that the problems continue to become worse, or do they remain sporadic at about the same frequency? I don't know what to do at this point. I saw a post a while back that Optoma no longer has the HD81 in stock. For more than 6K, I had hoped to get more than just one year of life out of the projector. The picture is dazzling when it works. I just wish I could get it to work consistently.

We did do some construction a couple months back so it is possible that some plaster dust has found its way into the projector. I thought I saw a post where somebody talked about vaccuuming the projector. Might that help? If so, would I just vaccuum the air vents, or is there a way to do a more thorough cleaning (without breaking anything).

Is it too late to upgrade to the LV? What is the cost to upgrade? Would that solve any of my problems?

I'd welcome any suggestions.

Thanks!

Joe

Joe,

I had this issue, burning smell, shutdowns soon after power up, no blue screen, just powered down in the middle of a movie. The smell went away after awhile as did the
shutdown issues for the most part--although I can't remember if this was happening
with my second or third HD81, I do know that it corrected itself for the most part,
amazingly.

All I can recommend is calling or emailing Optoma and finding out what they can do for you. There is no official HD81-LV upgrade program, and every situation is different.
Hopefully Optoma will be getting more HD81's in, that's why I had signed up for the
Gold Service Contract--they are obligated to provide a hot swap solution under the
terms of that contract. The LV has the hot swap as part of the normal warranty,
the first year you get a new unit, second and third years a loaner.

I can only tell you that Optoma has treated me well and come through every time with
very little down time--but, of course, I live down the street from them. Best of luck.

Joe,

I've experienced all of your problems with the 3 81's and one LV. It always got worse for me. Like Jeff, I have found Optoma to be responsive and magnanimous. After contacting the names provided to me by Tom and Jeff, I received excellent service on a product that is definitely a lemon. My suggestion would be to try to negotiate an LV. My second one is working beautifully. I would expect you to have the same experience. Warren Pierce is the effective person at optoma.

Thanks Art and Jeff!

I read the LV thread. I see that people have had a few problems with the LV also: greenish color without calibration, shutdown problems, and some folks have had thin white vertical lines through the image. Were you able to get yours adjusted so that you like the color as well as the HD81? There was a reference in the LV thread to the vertical offset being greater for the LV even though the spec is the same as the HD81. Was that your experience? It sounds like you both feel it was worth the cost to upgrade?, is that correct? Do you know how Optoma was able to substantially increase the brightness while using the same lamp?

Thanks again for your help!

Joe

I thought I saw a post where somebody talked about vaccuuming the projector. Might that help? If so, would I just vaccuum the air vents, or is there a way to do a more thorough cleaning (without breaking anything).

Is it too late to upgrade to the LV? What is the cost to upgrade? Would that solve any of my problems?

I'd welcome any suggestions.

Thanks!

Joe

Hey Joe,

Good to see you back!

I vacuumed mine and it didn't help at all. Warren replaced mine. But now the new one is starting to have blue screen problems. On my first one the color wheel died.

I ahve only had about 3 blue screens so far. I ahve had this new projector for about 1 month now.

I did buy the gold service as Jeff had recommended.

Let me know what you find out from Warren if you end up contacting him.

Thanks

Joe

Art and Jeff,

One more question: I've been going back through this thread and I saw posts from two other people who were having trouble with their HD81s and contacted Warren to see if he would let them upgrade to the LV. He turned both of them down. One of them even had a broken color wheel & he said Warren suggested her try to sell it on ebay. It looks like you two may be the only two who were able to upgrade. Can you offer any suggestions?

Thanks!

Joe

Having spent well over $8,000.00 on Optoma projector issues, and taking into account the fact that i am on my 5th yes (5) projector, I feel Optoma owes me something. I believe that when you reach this point, Optoma might want to help you too. Also, I do not feel that I "upgraded". I believe that I had to accept an LV or loose my large investment in time and money. In other words, I had to take the option I was offered. If I had my choice and if they had been available, I would have bought a Panasonic AE2000 with a VXD 3000 or simiar external box.

My suggestion to you is decide what you want. Ask for it. If you don't get what you want, you can pursue legal remedies or accept whatever Optoma offers. We are at Optoma's mercy. Before I began experiencing this blue-green issue, I was very hppy with my LV. Now, I am not so sure. BTW, I see that on several of the newest projectors, there are filters to compensate for the blue green tinge that seems to permeate everything as the projector gets older. Right now I have +24 dialed into my Red contrast in order to achieve a decent gray scale. Another point.... I would not pay a nickel to have this thing set up. By the time the guy goes out the door, the colors will probably shift enough to require a new setup. Quite depressing if you ask me.

Trying to watch football today I got a blue screen at least once each quarter. It was the flashing blue temp light.

I experimented a little. If I kept trying to switch input while it was blinking it would eventually switch and then I could go back to the original input, which was component2.

If I let it alone it would turn off.

This sounds like the original blue screen heat issue rather than any hdmi signal loss issue.

Joe

Hi Joe,

The flashing blue TEMP light indicates RS232 error. That is the one I keep having. Only when it happens to me, there is no blue screen. I get the flashing light followed by the projector shutting down. Do you get a blue scren or just the flashing light and shutdown?

I also sent you regular email.

Joe

Hi Joe,

The flashing blue TEMP light indicates RS232 error. That is the one I keep having. Only when it happens to me, there is no blue screen. I get the flashing light followed by the projector shutting down. Do you get a blue scren or just the flashing light and shutdown?

I also sent you regular email.

Joe

I get the blue screen AND the flashing temp light.

I will check my email.

Thanks

Joe

Simple,

I am the last person to defend Optoma but I never saw anything in writing about upgrade ability via the Internet. If I am wrong OK but I never read this.
You are right - I quoted a statement that said via the net. But we were promised, in writing, the ability to update the firmware ourselves via the serial port, and Optoma has failed to do this. I'm quite pissed right now and if I get enough PM's I will contact a lawyer about a class action suit.

To think I shelled out over $5k for a projector promising I could upgrade it myself, but in reality I will have to take if off the mount, pay to mail it to California (insured no less), then wait three weeks to get it back, only to have to reinstall and realign it. It's why I'm still on C05 - because its not worth the cost and time to get C08 when C08 isn't upgradeable.

Optoma seriously sucks and I'm telling everyone who see's my theater (nine people today watching the Colts-Patriots) to stay away from Optoma completely.

Simple,

I am not sure how I can be "right" when I say that "I never saw anything in writing about upgrade ability via the Internet" therefore disagreeing with your belief that you believe Optoma promised upgradeability via the net. AFAIK, Tom was the one who said that, not OPTOMA. I believe Jeff also said that C08 was necessary for an on line upgrade but to me that is not Optoma promising an on line upgrade.

Simple,

I am not sure how I can be "right" when I say that "I never saw anything in writing about upgrade ability via the Internet" therefore disagreeing with your belief that you believe Optoma promised upgradeability via the net. AFAIK, Tom was the one who said that, not OPTOMA. I believe Jeff also said that C08 was necessary for an on line upgrade but to me that is not Optoma promising an on line upgrade.

This was a PAIN to locate, with so many posts on this thread. But take a look at Post # 224, where Tzunglin is answering questions.

kiwishred asked in post #12:
- Was the CES demo at iris full open ?
- Will the HD81 be capable of user firmware upgrades ?

Tzunglin replies

Kiwishred,
1. Yes, the IRIS is full open, so to speak.
2. Yes, user upgradable via www download


So we were CLEARLY told we'd be able to download our own firmware. This was an outright lie, and I definitely would not have bought this unit if I had to take it down and mail it back for firmware upgrades.

I remember being told that we had to ship our units in so that a board could be replaced which would allow us the internet downloads.

I also remember hearing about beta testers for the download.

I am now getting really frustrated with the blue screens. In Minnesota we have lemon laws that are fairly strict. They even work for cars.

Joe Linn - You should check into those. I think the magic number is 3. I am only on #2.

I am going to contact Warren and see what he says.

Joe

I am going to contact Warren and see what he says.
Joe
Please get back to us after you talk to Warren. I'm in the process now of compiling a list of lawyers who do class action lawsuits.

Hi Joe,

Did you try running in high altitude mode? My projector #2 had blue screen shutdown issues. Art suggested that I try running it in high altitude mode. That did seem to stop the blue screens. I suspect that there may be components in some projectors that begin to fail as the temperature in the projector rises. High altitude mode runs the fan much faster and keeps the components cooler. I didn't consider that an acceptable long term solution. My fear was that the failing components would get worse and even high altitude mode wouldn't fix things. Still, it might be helpful in isolating your problem to see if high altitude mode makes a difference.

On your suggestion I did do some searches for Minnesota lemon laws. The only references I could find were for motor vehicles.

Please do let me know what Warren says. I'm still trying to determine what to do. The last two nights the projector has worked without any problems. I'm wondering if I just have a temporary reprieve or if things are getting beter. When it works, it throws a great picture.

Joe

When it works, it throws a great picture.

Joe

I think that has been the main reason that we have all been so patient. When it works it is an amazing picture. I still get stunned at times even after watching it for a year.

Joe

Are any of you experiencing the green shift?

Are any of you experiencing the green shift?


Not on any of my HD81s. Is that an LV-only issue? Have you been able to adjust it so that it looks good, or are the colors off no matter how you have it adjusted?

Joe

It is shifting dynamically. At any point in time, the high IRE levels appear to be blue green while the lower levels have a slight red/pink hue. I can almost get it neutral again with a lot of work bu then it may go to another error level requiring readjustment. Tonight it looked beautiful with the factory settings for 4.5 hours. Last night was terrible.

To determine whether you are experiencing what I am, click on the Film/TV/Graphic/PC to get the gray scale pattern at the top of the screen. The highest two bars will appear blue green. Lower IRE's are pink.

I brought up the Film/TV/Graphic/PC menu. I noticed the same thing. The highest two bars looked blue green. The next couple had a pinkish cast. The rest looked gray to me. I've never noticed anything when I am watching TV normally. I'm curious if a gray ramp from Avia or DVE would exhibit the same thing, or if it is possible that there is a problem with the internal gray bars it is generating. Do the colors look off when you are watching TV or a movie?

I had another shutdown after watching for about an hour tonight. There was no blue screen. The lamp just suddenly shut off. The TEMP light was flashing blue along with the flashing blue power light while it cooled down. This is really frustrating! I've had three CRT front projectors (going all the way back to an Advent in the 70s). I had an NEC LT-100 for about 7 years before I got the HD81. I never once had a shutdown on any of those projectors. This is my third HD81 and I have shutdown problems with all of them. I'm worried that even if Warren did let me upgrade to an LV, I'd end up paying a lot of money and ending up with a whole new set of problems. The posts from people with the LV don't sound all that comforting. I really don't know what to do. I just want a projector that works. Do the people who have switched to an LV feel that they are more reliable?

Joe

Joe, Art,

I had my ISF tech set the gray scale to be a bit plus red, and on the grayscale
ramp I am seeing warm whites, no blue/green. My HD81-LV has not drifted from
100 hours to the current 240 hours that I can detect by eye.

My LV has performed almost perfectly, had one shut down which I think was an
HDMI handshake issue. I always run at low bulb mode. Of course, I had HD81's
that worked well until the 300 hour point, so it's too early to tell about my LV.

I'm crossing my fingers.......

I think my power off problem is getting worse. It just powered off three times during one hour of watching my cable DVR. I think the ozone smell is getting stronger also.

Joe

I spoke with Warren and Jeff at Optoma. Jeff wants me to try high altitude mode. Depending on the resuls, I may end up needing to get the gold warranty. He checked the price and it is now $499! I tried the link from the HD81 page and the Optoma site. That is the price it shows there also. A month ago, the price was $259. Does anyone know what is going on with that? It looks like the price may have doubled since last month!

This is the third HD81 I have had with the exact same problem. I don't think I would feel very jolly plunking down $499 to try #4 when it appears to be a design problem on their part & so many people here have had the same problem. It wouldn't be as bad if I high a high degree of confidence that the fourth time would be a charm but, well, I don't.

Out of curiousity, are there any HD81 owners here who HAVEN'T had problems with their HD81? It could help my case if I could say that ALL the HD81 owners on AVS have had power off or blue screen problems.

Joe

Joe, Art,

I had my ISF tech set the gray scale to be a bit plus red, and on the grayscale
ramp I am seeing warm whites, no blue/green. My HD81-LV has not drifted from
100 hours to the current 240 hours that I can detect by eye.

My LV has performed almost perfectly, had one shut down which I think was an
HDMI handshake issue. I always run at low bulb mode. Of course, I had HD81's
that worked well until the 300 hour point, so it's too early to tell about my LV.

I'm crossing my fingers.......

Jeff,

Mine is working well again also. It occasionally goes into what I call "green-purple mode". Like you Jeff, I set mine up around 6000 K. I prefer good warm blacks. Growing up in the 50's on Muntz B&W 21" TV's, one's brain seems to know what it expects to see, specially when watching Hopalong Cassidy et al. I am approaching 700 hours and like you Jeff, I run on low speed. This one seems to be OK. I wish i could figure out the Green glitch. The effect is like watching a scene that is lit by flourescent lights. In those cases the light has so much higher wavelength content that everything in the scene turn green an purple. I wish everyone would use the same recording standards and adhere to them. The uncompensated TV shows are the worst. Bones is terrible. ER is wonderful. I mention these two because they both have high flourescent lamp content but ER's engineers seem to compensate properly. The very worst show though is this new show, Journey. It is so awful that I have created a special set of settings for it to compensate for the terrible engineering.

I feel I need to comment about the $500.00 "Gold Service". This is ludicrous. Obviously, they have had to double their insurance premiums because the frequency of claims required it. That does not say much for Optoma. The warranty should be enough to cover you. At a cost of $7,000.00, the addition of another $500.00 so that the customer can have guaranteed use of the projector, is a sad comment on how frequently these things are failing. Every time I turn mine on when my wife is in the room, I have to listen to "I wonder if it will keep working."

Art,

The green and purple issue you refer to sounds familiar. This is why I returned
my first HD81. In my case, this color issue was seen primarily at low IRE, shadow detail regions. I believe it was a processor issue.

Joe,

This is interesting about the Gold Service Contract price going to $499. It's
a lot to spend for just ONE YEAR of hot swap service, especially since there's
no guaranty that Optoma will even have an HD81 in stock.

Tom/Guitarman's assertion that the shutdown issues were due to a "small batch" of HD81's just doesn't hold water--I don't think his contacts at Optoma were being very forthright.

Joe, since you've now had three HD81's in a row with the same issue, I would
push very hard for an HD81-LV upgrade. $499 per year would be $1500 for
the factory warranty duration if one purchased it in the first year. I had to
pay 8.25% sales tax for mine, albeit at the previous lower cost.

Clearly there is a serious design flaw with the HD81 and Optoma needs to step
up to the plate. Charging $499 per year is not an acceptable way to treat
customers of their high-end series. What I haven't heard enough of is what
Optoma's repair turn around times are. Indeed, I'm not sure they are repairing
HD81's, and if so, what is being done to correct the overheating issue?

HD81 owners are going to need to get together and apply pressure on Optoma
to correct this design flaw or upgrade all owners to the LV, although nobody
is sure that will be a reliable solution as we've seen a few LV failures already.

Thanks Jeff!

The technician I spoke with at Optoma yesterday is also named Jeff. He said that normally turn around on repairs is 3-5 days, but lately they have been short on the board that typically gets replaces so repairs have been taking 1-2 weeks.

I agree that charging customers $499/year when Optoma clearly has a design problem is not good customer service.

Joe

Joe,

Jeff is a good guy, used to work at Faroudja Labs. If turnaround is only 3-5
days, that is very good for consumer electronics. It's also a positive that they
supposedly have new boards that incorporate a fix-when they're in stock. This
suggests that maybe you won't have the overheat issue anymore. If they can
really repair in a week once parts are on hand, the $499 Gold Service Contract
seems like a marginal value proposition.

There is one thing that makes me skeptical of their claim to have a redesigned board that fixes the problem. Joe Morris had his color wheel go out a month ago. He bought the gold service contract (at the lower price) and they swapped his projector. Now he is having shutdown issues. If the projectors they were sending out a month ago still have the problem, I'm doubtful they really have a fix.

It is unfortunate. Joe was the only HD81 owner I saw posting here who wasn't having shutdown or blue screen problems. Now, sadly, he is having trouble also. That is why I am interested to hear if there is anyone who ISN'T having trouble.

Joe

It is unfortunate. Joe was the only HD81 owner I saw posting here who wasn't having shutdown or blue screen problems. Now, sadly, he is having trouble also. That is why I am interested to hear if there is anyone who ISN'T having trouble.
This may surprise you, but I have only had the blue screen appear twice in a year of ownership - and i haven't seen a blue screen in over nine months. The first was after 4.5 hours of the projector being constantly on. The second was due to a serial interface problem which was solved with a restart.

Yet I'm one of the most anti-Optoma posters here. Why? Because the problems with their service have me scared out of my mind. I won't even think about sending it in for a firmware update - even though I'm DYING to see how my LGBH100 looks sending it a 1080/24P signal. I'm worried if I get C08 it will begin experiencing the same issues as so many other people here.

I'm also furious that I even have to take the thing of its mount - after we were promised by an Optoma employee that we could download the firmware from the net and update it ourselves.

I didn't spend nearly $6k on this projector so I could be without it for three weeks or more. You can buy an HD-DVD player for $99 that is upgradeable via the Internet without sending it in to Toshiba, but a projector that nearly costs as much as a small car can't deliver on its promise? In all honesty I never would have bought this projector is it didn't promise this one feature.

I also cross my fingers every time I turn it on that it doesn't break. Optoma's quality control is so bad that I can't really enjoy my projector because I'm constantly nervous it will break down.

My choices are simple a) send it in for 1080/24P and risk my unit comes back as a lemon, or b) keep it right where it is.

I'm keeping it where it is and NEVER buying another projector from Optoma for as long as I live.

Figured I'd share this because I hate feeling ripped off. Its the worst electronics purchase I ever made. Why? Simple I have owned this projector for one year but only gotten 10 months of use. It has already had to be returned three times and spent 8 weeks in repair/transit (and I used 2 day shipping which was a waste based on the long repair times). I took a risk and got the C08 upgrade this last time. Can't get much worse. As I listen to the louder whining of the color wheel I thinks its only a matter of time before repair 4. There ought to be a lemon law for products this flawed. I wish someone would bring a class action suit against Optoma to force some sort of fair solution. As a matter of fact complaining never gets anything done. :mad:This is worth the effort to look into.

It has already had to be returned three times and spent 8 weeks in repair/transit

Sadly, you have a lot of company here. Which problems have you experienced?

Joe

[QUOTE=Joe Linn;12176554]Sadly, you have a lot of company here. Which problems have you experienced?

I had none of the teporary problems described in the forum. No overheating. I experienced total failure to operate after a brief blue screen twice. They replaced I/O Boards. Once it went to 1/2 picture and 1/2 verticle lines. They actually replaced my first unit after second failure when I complained. I had been wondering what all the complaints were about on noise until I got the new unit. Th first unit color wheel was silent the new unit is unbelievably loud. I was hoping it needed replacement on this last repair but it was just another I/O board replace. To be fair the picture has always been great, but the lack of reliability just isn't acceptable.

I got my unit back yesterday, total downtime of two weeks. It worked fine until the color wheel went out. I got it upgraded to C08 so I can try out 1080/24p mode. So far so good but hardly any time on it since it's been back. They flubbed up my address so DHL was trying to deliver it to the wrong place on Thursday and Friday. They hadn't sent me any notification that it had shipped, I happened to call in Friday to check on the status since their RMA tracker on-line doesn't work and got the DHL tracking number from them. Had a nice scare since they had the entry screwed up and showed it as delivered on Thursday. I called and was able to pick it up from them after the driver got back.

I think the $500 Gold service is a joke since they don't even keep units on hand to swap out. For that much a year I would expect to have a unit immediately shipped to me, not have a potential week or more wait. Not really interested in throwing more money into the projector if it's going to have constant reliability issues. It really sounds like they need to make a design change or two to get a REAL fix in for the 81.

I have been lucky in that I don't have any problems with my unit however I do have an embarrasingly low number of hours on my projector so that may be the reason. I did get an email from Warren in December 2006 saying that they were talking about having the internet download feature but that he had no information on it. The absence of this really annoys me and also the fact that there are issues, correctable in firmware that they clearly are not going to do anything about. One is the lack of 24hz in lbx mode. The other big issue for me is that this thing is loud and right above my head but I dare not put it in a hush for fear of running into the over heating issues.

I like the picture but hate the noise and lack of upgrades so I will be buying a new PJ in June/July (bonus time) and it won't be Optoma! Hope you guys can advise me then!!

I have the latest C08 firmware with 48fps enabled. I bought the Panny BD30 because I wanted to take advantage of the 24fps. Problem is the Panny apparently won't recognize the HD81 as 24fps capable. The option to select 24fps in the Panny setup menu is there but greyed out - can't be selected. Talked to Panny tech support - no way to force selection. The Panny has to detect/handshake with a display it thinks is 24fps capable or the option is greyed out. Anyone gotten the HD81 to work at 48 with the BD-30? Know any tricks to get them to work together?

OT: A quick update from some earlier posts:

I finally found and purchased my dual format player. It is a LG SATA CD-ROM drive. It was under $300.

It works perfectly with HD-DVD movies. This weekend I will try it with BR. I am running Power-dvd and am getting pure 1080p using a dvi-hdmi adapter cable.

Also of note, I accidentally told power-dvd to use 7.1 speaker out and the sound was messed up. I had to switch it to 5.1 out for it to work. I am guessing that when I hook up the 7 analog channels from the htpc to my receiver I will get the true hd audio.

I will report back later on that and the BR

Joe

If i hear you correctly, you are recording HDDVD and BluRay on a CD player? That sounds impossible. Please straighten me out.

If i hear you correctly, you are recording HDDVD and BluRay on a CD player? That sounds impossible. Please straighten me out.

Oops, my bad. The CD drive is a DVD dual format drive. Well, and a CD drive too :)

Here is a link to the drive

http://www.ncixus.com/products/26553/GGC-H20L/LG%20Electronics/


But regarding your recording question, yes, it is possible to copy a HD-DVD or a BR-DVD to the hard drive for future playback. (Not recommended due to legal restrictions ;) ).

Joe

Well, I am now experiencing a new problem. I am getting the 1/2 second blackouts like the others are experiencing on the LV forum. (I am purely using component inputs and not hdmi.)

Did anyone get these with their HD81s?

Joe

Well, I am now experiencing a new problem. I am getting the 1/2 second blackouts like the others are experiencing on the LV forum. (I am purely using component inputs and not hdmi.)

Did anyone get these with their HD81s?

Joe


Was curious about the higher Optoma projectors and just passed by and saw the issues you guys are grappling. I have the Optoma H57 and what a projector it has been. Just superb. No problems till date since I bought it 2 years back. I had connected to my Denon 2808 and the HDMI 1080 images it projects are breath taking. Even though it is a lower end, I could'nt be happier....

AVR

Well, I am now experiencing a new problem. I am getting the 1/2 second blackouts like the others are experiencing on the LV forum. (I am purely using component inputs and not hdmi.)

Did anyone get these with their HD81s?

Joe

I never saw that on the HD81, only on the LV and I am using exactly the same input sources. However my HD81 kept spontaneously shutting off on me. I had been wondering if there is some error condition that caused my HD81 to shut off that the LV can handle with a short black screen. The fact that you are having the same problem with the HD81 shoots down that theory.

Joe

Hi guys,

More bad news I'm afraid... My bulb is approaching 900 hours. My 80 IRE up whites are blue-green. But, even worse, the picture seems to suffer a softening, kind of like someone decreased the resolution to that of VHS tape at the 6 hour speed. It is so wierd. All of a sudden it just gets foggy. Also, the picture is darker now. So dark, that I am using bright bulb and the iris is off. I use TV setting and crank in +5 of the gamma. When I use the auto gamma, it goes from light to dark. Does anyone know how the auto gamma works? What reference does it use?

My bulb is approaching 900 hours.

WOW - how many hours a day do you watch your projector? I've had my dVision since late Feb. and we are not quite up to 400 hours!!

Our family watches a lot of TV. I have a lot of folks in to look at my system too. I don't think 900 hours is that high. It comes out to about 3 hours a day here.

I finally found and purchased my dual format player. It is a LG SATA CD-ROM drive. It was under $300.
Joe

Joe, how are you connecting from the PC to HD3000? DVI-HDMI cable or DVI/HDMI connector and HDMI-HDMI cable? Are you getting 1:1 pixel mapping? Have you tried to send a rectangular signal like the one generated by Nokia Test (download here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12305967#post12305967) to see if all the pixels are being shown?

And what version of the firmware do you have on HD3000?

Thanks
Gireesh

Joe, how are you connecting from the PC to HD3000? DVI-HDMI cable or DVI/HDMI connector and HDMI-HDMI cable? Are you getting 1:1 pixel mapping? Have you tried to send a rectangular signal like the one generated by Nokia Test (download here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12305967#post12305967) to see if all the pixels are being shown?

And what version of the firmware do you have on HD3000?

Thanks
Gireesh

I will check it out andlet you know. I believe I am using an adpter but will verify.

Joe

Thanks... looking forward to your post.

Ok, I have firmware C08 dated 2007/01/02
I use a DVI-HDMI adapter qith a 6 foot HDMI cable to the HD3000
The converter states it is receiving 1080p from the computer
I am guessing it must be the 1 to 1 pixel mapping you spoke about because I see all of the image using the testing software. Actually, I ran all of the tests in the software and they all worked great. I could see everything, everything was clear as a bell and very readable. No moire issues and obviously no convergence issues.

Joe

jmorris,

Glad to hear everything is working for you. Mine has straightenedd itself out. The fogginess has gone away and the gray scale is tolerable even though it remains blue-green at the highest IR levels no white.

Joe, is your desktop resolution 1920x1080? If that is the case, the scaler is downconverting the PC output to 720p, so you will see all of the picture. It does that for me when I use VGA output. The problem I see is when I use HDMI connector on my PC and output 1280x720, which is the native resolution of the panel.

Just found out that the 81 is no longer being made or offered for sale by Projector People. That includes the 81-LV.

Just found out that the 81 is no longer being made or offered for sale by Projector People. That includes the 81-LV.

Art,

When you say "made", are you saying hat Optoma is not making them anymore?

Joe

That is correct. At least that is what I was told. If you check, the second tier dealers are selling unsold stock under $5K.

Joe, is your desktop resolution 1920x1080? If that is the case, the scaler is downconverting the PC output to 720p, so you will see all of the picture. It does that for me when I use VGA output. The problem I see is when I use HDMI connector on my PC and output 1280x720, which is the native resolution of the panel.

I am confused. The HD81 is a 1080p projector. How am I getting 720p?

Yes, my pc resolution is 1920x1080. Also my video card does recognize the pj as 1080p.

Joe

Sorry Joe, I am the one who is confused... I got threads mixed up.

And yes, HD81 and HD81-LV are discontinued products. So is HD7300, the 720p projector that uses HD3000.

does that mean that, like classic cars, their value will shoot up now?

And yes, HD81 and HD81-LV are discontinued products. So is HD7300, the 720p projector that uses HD3000.
Is there any confirmation that the HD81-LV is discontinued? Their website is prominently displaying it.

If it truly is discontinued, what is their 1080p replacement?

I have received a response from the Optoma USA HD81 product manager that
says the HD81 is out of production but the HD81-LV is still in production, FWIW.

If there is any shooting to be done around here, count me in. This is the second product that I purchased in recent years that was dropped prematurely by its manufacturer, The LG LST03410 HD DVR was pulled because its tuner did not have all the safeguards necessary for HDCP compliance. The real reason was that their failure rate was so high that to keep building them would have a negative impact on the company. Sound familiar? The saddest part of all this is that with the current crop of preamp/processors, the 3000 becomes unnecessary. I should have waited. Hopefully, my new Integra 9.8 will revognize the VXD3000 and vice versa for a good HDMI handshake. If any of you are looking for processors where you get thebiggest bang for the buck, take a look at the Integra 9.8. All the codecs are there for the wave of new sound delivery technologies. Also it has thhe Audessy room EQ and HD radio capability as well as a Mag phono preamp. You can use the loop provided in the 3000 and increase HDMI connectivity to 7. Hope it stays viable longer than the 81's and the 3410A's. I also have on order a Samsung 5K HDDVD/BluRay player. It is supposed to stream audio data so I can use the decoders in the Integra 9.8. IMHO the preamp and player will provide state of the art performance at moderate prices. Ny Bryston or similar stuff for me. I believe in technological performance not marketing flare. With the 81's I fell for marketing hype without sufficient backup performance experience. We were all misguided and sold a bill of good. At $7,000.00 these projectors were way over priced, specially simce they failed so quickly.. I hope I can get several more years out of the LV. When the second bulb I already purchased dies, I should have 5,000 hours on the LV projector. It will be time to go shopping then. Fortunately, that is at least 2 years away.

My info. came from a dealer so I would believe Jeff. Even so, the price drop does appear to signal some sort of action on the part of Optoma. Jeff, are you sure? Not that it makes a big difference any more but it would be nice to know.

Is there any confirmation that the HD81-LV is discontinued? Their website is prominently displaying it.

If it truly is discontinued, what is their 1080p replacement?

HD81 & HD7300 are both still on the product page. Places like VA are not selling these as they are sold out... I am not sure about HD-81 LV.

My info. came from a dealer so I would believe Jeff. Even so, the price drop does appear to signal some sort of action on the part of Optoma. Jeff, are you sure? Not that it makes a big difference any more but it would be nice to know.

Art,

I am as sure as I can be, short of being in product planning meetings at Optoma USA.

I sent the Optoma product manager an email today and had his response via
email three minutes later, it reads:

"Hey Jeff, the HD81 is EOL now. There are none in production. However, the
HD81-LV is still in production and there are plenty in stock. Hope all is well!"

I ordered the Samsung BD-UP5000 in August and hope to see it soon. Unfortunately, the BD-1400 has had bugs and this will be Samsung's first
HD DVD product, so I am expecting issues.

My biggest concern right now is that the 7.1 analog outputs don't have
speaker distance management capability and that profile 1.1 compliance
won't arrive until a firmware update late in January. That and I'm still not
sure which advanced audio codecs are decoded internally prior to promised new firmware.

Why do we do this to ourselves, over and over again?

My biggest concern right now is that the 7.1 analog outputs don't have
speaker distance management capability

Does it matter if the receiver has the distance capability?

Joe

I guess that is good news... HD3000 will be in production then, correct?

Does it matter if the receiver has the distance capability?

Joe

Joe,

No problem if the receiver can do it in the digital domain. My Fosgate FAP T1+
does not convert the analog inputs to digital, it's a straight pass through with
some rudimentary bass management. I love this processor with its 16X9 LCD
video screen and great surround modes--but it's technology is circa 2005, ancient by digital audio codec standards!:D

Joe,

No problem if the receiver can do it in the digital domain. My Fosgate FAP T1+
does not convert the analog inputs to digital, it's a straight pass through with
some rudimentary bass management. I love this processor with its 16X9 LCD
video screen and great surround modes--but it's technology is circa 2005, ancient by digital audio codec standards!:D

Hmmm, I will have to pay closer attention to me Denon then. I was assuming the odyssey setup would control the output for the 8 analog inputs too.

More reading to do.....

Joe

I guess that is good news... HD3000 will be in production then, correct?

Okay, another email response from Optoma USA:

1. HD81-LV MAP is still $7999.00

2. HD3000 standalone processor is OUT of production.

I thought the 5000 would put out DSD via the HDMI and the 9.8 would be able to decode it. Am I wrong Jeff?

What does "MAP" mean?

The LV is available for under $5K. Can;t find it now but saw it yesterday.

What does "MAP" mean?

Ah, I bet Jeff fat fingered it and meant MSP :)

Ah, I bet Jeff fat fingered it and meant MSP :)

Joe,

MAP=Manufacturer's Advertised Price

Art,

What is DSD?

As delivered, the Samsung 5000 should be able to send bitstream audio of all
codecs over HDMI except for DTS MA, which should be addressed via firmware
later.

The LV is available for under $5K. Can;t find it now but saw it yesterday.

Still out there, but from some shady vendors... <6K from at least one authorized dealer.

Jeff,

DSD refers to Direct Stream Digital, the way they store audio on digital media. Kind of an allencompasing term.

Deep down I knew it was only a matter of time before I experienced a problem with my HD81. That occurred yesterday when I noticed a slight discoloration (almost like a dirty watermark) at the top of the picture and slightly to the left of center.

At first I thought it was dirt on the screen, but after cleaning the screen and looking through with a flashlight I could see no discoloration on the screen. Then I slightly moved the projectors and the discoloration moved with the projector.

I cleaned the lens, but that did not work. The problem must be on the inside of the unit. Any words of wisdom before I contact Optoma - who won't be open for another four hours (gotta LOVE their customer service).

Thanks in advance.

I was just thinking - could it be a problem with the bulb? Admittedly its an expensive troubleshooting attempt, considering my bulb only has 310 hours on it and if it isn't the bulb I'm back to square one.

Simple,

My second 81 exhibited a kind of fuzziness that I could not explain. My wife and I tried everything in our power to eliminate it unsuccessfully. Warren replaced #2. Never got any feedback. It looked as if a thin layer of vaseline had been applied somewhere in the light path. This one is hard to describe and even harder to demonstrate to the unsophisticated. Warren took me at my word. I hope they trade your machine.

Was it just in a small area like mine? And do you have Warren's extension #?

No...the whole picture looked off. Some parts seemed worse but that was wherever we were focusing on a particular area. I spent days trying to analyze the problem without success. I use a 96" wide screen and watch it from 12 ft away.

I picked up the samsung bd-up5000 a couple of days ago and it looks great so far. Im wondering how much inprovement it could be if my
h81 did 24 frames.

1gasman

1gasman,

I canceled the 5000 because of the audio issues. I bought an A35 and the Panasonic BD30 for less than the 50000. Am waiting to see if everything works with my Integra 9.8 and the VXD. Why can't you do 24p?

Eariler threads said u have to have version 08 to to do 24p, mine is version 04.
I havent try it yet though, to see it if works.

1gasman

Not sure how many people this will help, but I just called my credit card and they offer a "double warranty protection" up to one additional year. So I've now got three more years left on my warranty instead of two.

Check your credit card company - you may have this protection. I didn't even think to ask until my sister told me AMEX does it.

Does anyone know, how are you able to tell if your h81 is retrieving a 24p picture>?
My samsung 5000 indicates the 24p is on, but I was wondering, is there anything in the projector menu that shows there is a 24p signal being inputed. Picture looks great but not sure what 24p is suppose to look like.

1gasman

I have 968 hours on my LV and can honesty say that I can not see the difference between 30p and 24p. Whether that is due due to the projector not syncing or me not syncing I can't say. I do knw that leaving the projector set at 48 can create a temporay blue screen while the projecor tries to sync to a 60Hz 30p iinput when one is provided versus a 24p input. This 24p stuff IMHO is marketing run amuck. There are those who say they can see a significant improvement due to decreased jitter. I respect their opinions generally so, I assume they are reporting the truth.

My experience with the HD 81 and trying to view 24fps is that unless your dvd player has a forced 24fps mode you will not be able to send 24fps to your HD81. I have the Toshiba HD-A35 and the Panny BD 30 an nether will hand shake with the HD81. Neither player has a forced 24fps mode so neither will go into 24fps playback. I read somewhere in the forum that if your projector was not capable of 24fps that a later firmware upgrade would NOT upgrade the electronic handshake data so it will not be recognized as 24fps capable. I'm not sure if this is true but it seems to be (my HD 81 was upgraded from C04 to C08)

I just began setting my 35 and 30 up and so far got a handshake with the 35 at 24P without any video problems. I can not get it to deliver Dolby True HD to my Integra 9.8 via HDMI.

I just began setting my 35 and 30 up and so far got a handshake with the 35 at 24P without any video problems. I can not get it to deliver Dolby True HD to my Integra 9.8 via HDMI.

Art,

Considering the previous poster has had no luck with 24P using the same HDM players as you are with his HD81, this would lead me to believe that the HD81-LV might be the difference. A different HDMI implementation perhaps?

Whatever, I am happy to hear that 24P is working for you. I would like to hear
your views of 24P playing out at 48P vs. 60i or 60P.

This 24p stuff IMHO is marketing run amuck. There are those who say they can see a significant improvement due to decreased jitter. I respect their opinions generally so, I assume they are reporting the truth.


THANKS ART AND OTHERS FOR YOUR HELP.
1GASMAN

While I seem to be getting the A35 to operate at 24P, I can not get the Panasonic BD30 to do the same. In fact, It will not allow me to select 24p in its software. Thoughts?

Also, this Advanced Audio Codecs thing is not easy to implement. I am not seeing what I should in the Integras 9.8.

Jeff, to be quite honest, I can not see any difference in PQ regardless of the frame rate.

The projector no longer operates on low blower. After a few seconds on low blower I get blue and red blinking light that require an unplug/replug. PIA

This saturation thing is a big deal. Whites are devoid of detail. Maybe the 1000+ hour bulb..

While I seem to be getting the A35 to operate at 24P, I can not get the Panasonic BD30 to do the same. In fact, It will not allow me to select 24p in its software. Thoughts?

Also, this Advanced Audio Codecs thing is not easy to implement. I am not seeing what I should in the Integras 9.8.

Jeff, to be quite honest, I can not see any difference in PQ regardless of the frame rate.

The projector no longer operates on low blower. After a few seconds on low blower I get blue and red blinking light that require an unplug/replug. PIA

This saturation thing is a big deal. Whites are devoid of detail. Maybe the 1000+ hour bulb..

Art,

The HD81 needs 24P sources with forced 24P ability, not sure if the BD30
does this.

I'm sorry that 24P doesn't give you an obvious improvement in motion. I
was hoping it would. Another reason for me to not feel too bad about not
taking delivery of my Samsung combo player.

That's a pain about the LV not working at low power mode. This has never
been an issue with the three HD81's and one LV I've had.

Are your clipped whites on all inputs? Component and HDMI? If just HDMI,
are you using the Integra for HDMI switching? If so, have you bypassed the Integra to make sure it is not causing the clipped signal?

My LV continues to work very well and is stable in all areas, other than a shutdown when connected to a PS/3, but it worked fine for many hours
after that.

Art,

The HD81 needs 24P sources with forced 24P ability, not sure if the BD30
does this.

[Apparently it must not do whatever is necessary to put the 81-LV in 24P. Both the XA2 andd the BDP300 seemed to work. What does it take to "force" the VXP into 24 fps? When I look at "signal" on the 81's menu, it reads
1080p, not 1080p 24]

I'm sorry that 24P doesn't give you an obvious improvement in motion. I
was hoping it would. Another reason for me to not feel too bad about not
taking delivery of my Samsung combo player.

That's a pain about the LV not working at low power mode. This has never
been an issue with the three HD81's and one LV I've had.

[After a day at high blower, last night I got brave and switched to Low blower and normal light. Did not fail. I suspect the "out of range" frequency indication may have had something to do with it. Who Knows?]

Are your clipped whites on all inputs? [Yes] Component and HDMI? [Yes] If just HDMI, are you using the Integra for HDMI switching?

[The white washout occurs irrespective of what is sconnected or the routing. For completeness, I have 3 HDMI inputs, the two High Def players, 35 and 30, and the Comcast/Motorola DVR connected via HDMI to the VXP. Then I loop to the Integra 9.8. The delays are horrific. Whoever designed and implemented HDMI/HDCP should have his engineering license pulled. I have waited 4 minutes while the HDMI's resynced after a change of networks with 1080i vs. 720P.]

If so, have you bypassed the Integra to make sure it is not causing the clipped signal? [NA]





Jeff,


My LV continues to work very well and is stable in all areas, other than a shutdown when connected to a PS/3, but it worked fine for many hours
after that.

Please refer to the inserts above.

Has anyone used the 12v connector on the back of the HD81? I want to connect this to my anamorphic lens sled but I don't recognise the connector on the HD81. I have a 3.5mm stereo jack on that device.

Also I don't know if I missed this in other parts of the discussion but I have set up a custom format that allows you to select LBX and 48Hz. Only thing is that I have no idea if it actually works as I can't force my XA2 to deliver 24hz. Anyone tried this?

Ok after fighting with the "Loop" Optoma says will work for a week, I had to abandon it and put the jumper back. I now run my two DVI sources directly to the VXP
at HDMI 1&2. My new Integra 9.8 feeds HDMI 3. Everything works perfectly except
24P. Neither player will lock with the VXP. Both the XA2 and BDPS300 connected at 24P. I can't understand why these do not but I accept your words Jeff. Everything looks and sounds incredible. I can decode all the new Codecs through 7 channels + the Sub. The Audessy works beutifully making all speakers sound the same and providing an erie soundfield. By connecting both HD DVD and BluRay and the Comcast DVR to the 9.8, I eliminated the 5 minute waits for HDMI locks after 3-6 retries. The LOOP does not work.!!!!! I've just about finished my system now. Everything from my Nakamichi Dragon to my Teac R to R and my PSX800 Turntable go to the Controller. I have 1200 hours now on the bulb and contrast is quite poor.

BTW, Lost another Remote Control. They will replace it.

Received a replacement remote today. Warren is the greatest.

Also received this statement from him.

"Hi Art,

I'm glad to hear all is well. Just remember to shut it down after 8 hours of continuous use and let it cool for 8 hours before you turn it on again. Heat is the enemy and it really builds up after 8 hours. Happy New Year and enjoy that projector!"

I answered the following:


"Warren,



I have been adhering to the 8 hour cool down since the first projector. There are so many flaws in these machines that I can not understand how a company could continue to sell them. Besides the heat issues, there is a problem with the “loop”. It does not work. The HDMI handshake with an AV receiver is almost impossible. I normally let mine cool down for half an hour on the rare occasions that I need to have it on for an extended period of time. With the amount of air movement in my home, that is sufficient to cool it to the core to room temperature.



I am grateful for all your intervention Warren but to be honest I have never owned any projector that I found quite as temperamental. I believe that Optoma should revise its design standards to prevent failures that occur so frequently. I know of no other CE device that requires a cool down period to prevent its destruction. While I am required to comply with OPTOMA’s use standards because of the need to protect my $7,000.00+ outlay, I do not like it. I have not mentioned the noisy color wheel that sometimes sounds like a motorboat on startup. Nor have I mentioned the evenings where the projector will not turn on for an hour after shutting down precipitously without cause.



I recently purchased an Integra 9.8 Controller to decode the new audio codec’s available on High Def players. I planned and attempted to install it in the AV loop as directed by OPTOMA. Unfortunately, OPTOMA’s HDCP implementation is flawed and after a week of discussion with the manufacturers of the source devices and the Controller, I have been forced to reconfigure my setup to not use the “loop through” feature. This has made operation cumbersome requiring several commands for every action. Also, I can not understand why OPTOMA did not engineer a normal 24 fps ability into this projector. The need for a player that forces 24 fps has caused me a lot of expense and frustration.



Frankly, Warren, I am sick of owning and living with this projector. Installation and reinstallation expenses have been outrageous I am thankful you have been there for me always to honor OPTOMA’s warranty. I trust this will continue. I will do everything required to maintain and follow the letter of the law with regard to the 81-LV’s operational requirements.



Art

I offer this so that those of you using this projector in an environment where you might want to have it working for periods longer than 8 hours, do not. Also, it is interesting that in a 24 hour day you can not run it for more than 12. Sad if you ask me. Also, I do not believe the failures have anything to do with long hours of operation. Heat does not accumulate like water in a bowl. Instead it reaches a plateau and stays there in a stable environment.

I offer this so that those of you using this projector in an environment where you might want to have it working for periods longer than 8 hours, do not. Also, it is interesting that in a 24 hour day you can not run it for more than 12. Sad if you ask me. Also, I do not believe the failures have anything to do with long hours of operation. Heat does not accumulate like water in a bowl. Instead it reaches a plateau and stays there in a stable environment.
Thanks for keeping us updated. I haven't sent my HD81 back yet due to the small "vaseline" issue at the top of the image since we are in the thick of the NFL playoffs.

Part of me wants to live with the problem based on how many more problems people seemed to have after sending it back for warranty repairs. While I love the picture, I will not buy another Optoma.

I'm using the loop with out any issues but it is to an NHT Contoller. Unfortunately they have just discontinued that so I am looking for a new processor at the moment. Sounds like the Integra doesn't mate too well with the HD81? Anyone using a NAD T175? For that matter I am probably going to look at a new PJ as well. Any views on what might be an upgrade on the HD81 picture? And preferably something quiet too!

Today I could not keep the projector on for more than 20 sec when I turned it on. I had been living with difficult startups for a few weeks but after raising the blower to high and praying a lot, it would always work. Today it would not. Called Warren and he told me that he was almost positive that the bulb was at fault. The inability t keep the unit on after startup is a symptom of bulb failure. I put in a new bulb and VOILA!!!! everything worked perfectly. The color and vibrancy is back and the shift to green I had reported lately is gone. I can't tell you how beatiful the picture is again. Watching American Idol via cable routed through HDMI and using the Integra 9.8 set on 1080p (it has a Reon also) with the LV set on Native, the picture prompted a positive comment from my wife. It was truly stunning. For the record, the LV and the 9.8 work well together. HDMI just takes a while.

Also learned from Panasonic that there will never be a 24 fps firmware upgrade to their Model 30 BluRay machine. So, I can not do 24 fps with BluRay or HD DVD (A35 model). Why the LV has to be forced is ridicuous. Panasonic's people said that they will never design any player to force 24 fps and can not imagine why a projector would require such an enhancement. They said tat the 24 fps issues had been hammered out 5 years ago and that implementation in a display is straightforward. Apparently, the code for doing this is readily available to manufacturer's design teams. I have to wonder where the Optoma designers were when such desicions were being made. Perhaps the marketing folks at Optoma decided that it was an unnecessary frivolity. Hard to believe the 48Hz switch is there but it is of little use.

Anyway, with respect to the failed lamp. I got 10 months of use and 1049 hours out of it. Warren advised that this is not uncommon if you use the projector a lot and with a Bright setting. I used "BRIGHT" at first to keep the LV from shutting off as previous units had. Can't seem to win.

Conclusion.... I will use my 1971 Sony KV-1500 to watch SD and 4x3 programming to save the bulb. $500.00 a pop is a lot of money every 10 months. Interstingly, my father's Infocus X1, that runs 16-18 hours a day, has required 2 bulb changes. Each bulb lasted between 1500 and 2200 hours.

This is progress guys. I would be really pissed if the picture and now with the Integra 9.8, the sound weren't so amazingly striking. I can honetly say that I have seen the future of home entetainment excellence. It is alive and well in my living room. The LV, the Integra 9.8 with its ability to decode the DTS MA codec and all the others, the 7.1 speakers and the Velodyne 18" sub, the 96" wide screen all combine to provide a brief glimpse into Nirvana. Try it guys. You will be amazed. BTW, the A35's street price is below $250.00. It deliivers every codec via HDMI. Combined with a BD 30 BluRay and an Integra 9.8 and you can be at the "state of the art". Of course no 24 fps but I never couldd see any difference when I switched it in. And yes, I know it worked when I had an XA2. It just provided no observable benefit, IMHO.

Art,

the XA2 only recently got the 24fps upgrade (or at least the fix for it) and it still doesn't have a forced mode. Right now you can't get 24fps from the XA2 with the HD81 so maybe the reason you didn't see the benefit was because it wasn't working. I understand that the XA2 will get forced mode and I really hope that happens. I'm glad to hear the LV is back on track.

Piers

btw thought I add some impressions myself.

Content over HDMI is great. I also installed the latest firmware which was quite simple (V2.5 dated Sept 11, 2007). Though one thing it does require a female to female serial cable.

I will you though, 480i content gets a good upgrade on the projector end but do not expect miracles :)

Latest firmware? Do you have a link?

Art,

I am really glad it was only a bulb issue and that you have regained the fantastic picture that keeps us all with these products.

Are you running your LV on high altitude or bright mode? I ahve not had to run my LV at either and so far I ahve had no issues other than a somwwhat intermittant blank screen with an associated shutdown. (Again, only when I dim my ceiling lights.)

Joe

I have been using mine in the lower mode most of the time. I use the Bright setting occasionally.

I agree about thhe XA2. Apparently I did not see it because it was not happening. I did see 1080p 24 at the "Signal" message. Guess I will never see 24 fps.

Is there really a new firmware version for the LV? I did not understand the whole message. Please clarify.

Hey Art,

I went looking for the firmware upgrade on the optoma web site. Didn't find it but noticed it states taht for the LV, the bulb has a 1 year warranty.

I cannot imagine you have had your LV for a year yet.

joe

Regarding forced 24fps mode...
Perhaps you could use a DVI Detective from Gefen:
http://www.gefen.com/kvm/product.jsp?prod_id=1378

to record the EDID from another projector that 'advertises' 1080p@24fps and then use that to fake out the XA2 (or any other source that wants to see an EDID that officially advertises support for 24fps).

Give me a few weeks and I'll try it myself, I have 2 DVI detectives I use for other things. I just need to get a hold of a 1080p@24fps EDID source to record.

I have no idea what I'm doing so please excuse the placement of the post. The specified ceiling mount for this data project is Bering BM-2006N. I volunteered to buy the equipment and install it in our little church. Optoma's website and the on-line store show this mount to be the correct model (CM-H72X) but I do not see any mounting holes in the data projector to match the mounting plate. Any experience anyone can share with me? Happy New Yar. Thanks, Eric.

Hi all, I am looking into the HD81-LV for doing a very large theater with the smx screen, since it has moderate gain, and the projector is so bright, I thought it would be my best shot at doing a very large HT setup. Personally, I want to go as big as I can, this will be in a dedicated HT in a basement, so light control is at its finest. I am looking to do a 250" or so screen. I am having a hard time getting to the bottom of some things though, projector central's calculator pro cuts the light output to less than half when you select movie mode, why is this? I understand that you loose some light after calibration ect. but why do they always count on loosing over half? Is this accurate? Can I really only expect to get 1200 lumens out of this 2500 lumen projector.

I will using this with a panamorph lens for a CIH theater, I would like to make the image as large as possible, the room will have a 14' ceiling where the projector is going to be so I can get it high enough, the issue is, will it be bright enough?

Edit: Just an fyi, I would like the image to ideally be 112" high because thats how tall my speakers are, if I need to trim it down because there aren't any sub 10k projectors that will go that big, I can take one cabinet off and trim that down to 84" high, which would yield a 218" screen, I am going to have a hard time settling for anything smaller though.

army,

Before you attempt a 250" image listen to what I am about to say.

I have a 96" wide image on a 1.3 gain screen. With my original bulb that just became unusable at 1049 hours, the brightness had dropped to a level that required the iris to be wide open and the bulb on High Brightness. My new bulb creates a beautiful picture with the IRIS at 12 and Low Brightness setting. I would never go beyond a 120 " width. Make sure you check all this before comitting a lot of money to the endeavor.

yeah I have seen bulbs go, my first PJ is at my friends now, it has 1400 hours on it and he just had to use high output on his small 84" wide screen, and that PJ was 1800 lumens. My second one, a Hitachi PJTX100 has 600 hours on it and it won't do the 160" image that it used to do.

I haven't done large images on a gained screen yet, so I haven't seen for myself what improvements are to be had, I'd like to get 16 fl or so, so that as the bulb dies, I can still get 12. I don't use PJ's as often as some here, 1000 hours would last me about 3 years.

A few other options may be that I could scratch the CIH and go with a 90"x160" screen and just deal with the smaller 67" tall anamorphic mode, not that I'm crazy about the idea. Another idea that I'm even less crazy about would be getting a 1366x768 projector with a much beefier output like a sanyo plv-wf10 with 4000 lumens. I don't know how bad the sde is on that, being an lcd projector and all, I imagine it would be fairly noticeable on a 200+" screen though.

Guys, I'm very much a newbie here and need some help.

I am in the process of buying all the needed equipment for my HT setup. I've already bought the sound equipment and have ordered a 110" SI Performance Screen. I've been seriously comparing the JVC DLA-RS2 and Optoma HD81 for the last month or so and have concluded that the Optoma's Lumens is where I need to be. I have a custom built home that has a single room upstairs. It's design was to be an entertainment room with a bar, pool table, dart boards and a balcony so it's not a dedicated "Theatre Room" as some would say here. I will have the ability to Black Out the room in the afternoons for daytime movie watching but I also want the ability to have the curtains open while entertaining guests with a party or on Football Sunday's and have everybody see the screen easily. So I need a high lumens output during the this time.

My question to you guys is which HD81 should I go with? The HD81 LV or the original HD81? I have 10" cielings and I'm sure the HD81's "fixed lense" isn't going to be a problem because I'm only going with a 110" screen. But I noticed that the Lumens power on the LV is substantially higher. It actually seems too bright for my setup according to ProjectorCentrals calculator. But my thinking is would it be too bright even if I had it set on Low Output or without the Iris at night or during Blacked Out veiwing...and will it be perfect for when all the windows are open during the day? I don't want to purchase the original HD81 and it's 1400 Lumens not be enough to fill the screen with an acceptable brightness during the daytime with the curtains open. I will purchase the LV if I know for a fact that I can run it on Low Output when the room is dark to not get "spectro-vision" from it's brightness as I'm only going to sit maybe 13"-15" away from the screen itself.

HD81 or HD81 LV??? Which one shall I go for? I am ready to purchase ASAP but still on the fence.

Any help is quality from my POV.

My question to you guys is which HD81 should I go with? The HD81 LV or the original HD81? I have 10" cielings and I'm sure the HD81's "fixed lense" isn't going to be a problem because I'm only going with a 110" screen.
I own the HD81, not the LV and based on what you have written can tell you to get the LV. Even a little bit of light produces a washed out image. I do have a 126" screen, but I don't think my larger screen will make a difference in the effect "wide open curtains" will do to the screen.

Honestly, I don't think you'll like any PJ with the curtains wide open.

If you REALLY want my advice - get the HD8000. It's about $2,500 and comes with a longer warranty than the HD80 (believe me, you want the longer warranty when it comes to Optoma's products). Then take the savings and buy a 720p 50" Panasonic Plasma. Put your front projector screen on motors and retract it when the curtains are wide open.

On occasion I run my LV during the daytime with bright sunlight on the other side of curtains. The room is not dark. The picture is acceptable but nowhere near as nice as at night. You WILL need the LV. You should not buy the 81 because it breaks down and is out of production bvecause it was a disaster. Forget the 81.

If you plan to watch BluRay or HD DVD at 24 fps, forget it. None of the new players have what it takes to make our projector play at 24 fps (48 Hz setting). NADA, NOTHING will fix that. I've talked to SONY, Panasonic and Toshiba. All three say that it is Optoma's fault and they will not "force 24 fps." If for no other reason, consider buying another brand if 24 fps is something important to you.

Guys, I'm very much a newbie here and need some help.

I am in the process of buying all the needed equipment for my HT setup. I've already bought the sound equipment and have ordered a 110" SI Performance Screen. I've been seriously comparing the JVC DLA-RS2 and Optoma HD81 for the last month or so and have concluded that the Optoma's Lumens is where I need to be. I have a custom built home that has a single room upstairs. It's design was to be an entertainment room with a bar, pool table, dart boards and a balcony so it's not a dedicated "Theatre Room" as some would say here. I will have the ability to Black Out the room in the afternoons for daytime movie watching but I also want the ability to have the curtains open while entertaining guests with a party or on Football Sunday's and have everybody see the screen easily. So I need a high lumens output during the this time.

My question to you guys is which HD81 should I go with? The HD81 LV or the original HD81? I have 10" cielings and I'm sure the HD81's "fixed lense" isn't going to be a problem because I'm only going with a 110" screen. But I noticed that the Lumens power on the LV is substantially higher. It actually seems too bright for my setup according to ProjectorCentrals calculator. But my thinking is would it be too bright even if I had it set on Low Output or without the Iris at night or during Blacked Out veiwing...and will it be perfect for when all the windows are open during the day? I don't want to purchase the original HD81 and it's 1400 Lumens not be enough to fill the screen with an acceptable brightness during the daytime with the curtains open. I will purchase the LV if I know for a fact that I can run it on Low Output when the room is dark to not get "spectro-vision" from it's brightness as I'm only going to sit maybe 13"-15" away from the screen itself.

HD81 or HD81 LV??? Which one shall I go for? I am ready to purchase ASAP but still on the fence.

Any help is quality from my POV.



On occasion I run my LV during the daytime with bright sunlight on the other side of curtains. The room is not dark. The picture is acceptable but nowhere near as nice as at night. You WILL need the LV. You should not buy the 81 because it breaks down and is out of production bvecause it was a disaster. Forget the 81.

If you plan to watch BluRay or HD DVD at 24 fps, forget it. None of the new players have what it takes to make our projector play at 24 fps (48 Hz setting). NADA, NOTHING will fix that. I've talked to SONY, Panasonic and Toshiba. All three say that it is Optoma's fault and they will not "force 24 fps." If for no other reason, consider buying another brand if 24 fps is something important to you.

JTHV,

I agree with all that Simple Theater posted. I have had the HD-81 and HD-81LV currently.(Actually three HD-81's due to problems, but my LV has been pretty solid since I got it in August.)

The HD81-LV will be the better choice for a high ambient light room. If you plan to have the projector D65 calibrated, expect to lose a lot of lumens there. Also, such things as "Brilliant Color" boost lumens, but won't do good things for color accuracy.

My priority for the LV was not high lumens, but better contrast ratio. The HD81 has a contrast ratio of around 1800:1, the LV around 2800:1. I believe the HD-80 and 8000 are closer to the LV in that regard. Any light entering the viewing room will completely destroy the contrast range instantly.

So, were I you, I would consider two things; first, consider a more reliable option than Optoma products; second, rethink having any window coverings
open during viewing of any front projection system. LCD or Plasma is a better
approach to that environment, as Simple Theater stated.

Good luck!

Regarding forced 24fps mode...
Perhaps you could use a DVI Detective from Gefen:
http://www.gefen.com/kvm/product.jsp?prod_id=1378

to record the EDID from another projector that 'advertises' 1080p@24fps and then use that to fake out the XA2 (or any other source that wants to see an EDID that officially advertises support for 24fps).

Give me a few weeks and I'll try it myself, I have 2 DVI detectives I use for other things. I just need to get a hold of a 1080p@24fps EDID source to record.

I am not sure how this would "force" 24 fps from either the BD30 or A35 but if you think it will work, please let mme know.

I'm sorry guys. I omitted an important factor about the lighting...

I forgot to mention that the windows behind the curtains will be tinted with a reflective tint that only allowes 15% light in. So even though the curtains will be "wide open" sometimes, the tinted windows should greatly reduce the amount of light allowed into the room.

With hearing that the HD81 was a disaster and is no longer being produced, I think the only choice is the LV.

Keep in mind that I was ready to purchase the JVC DLA-RS2 but found that it's 700 Lumens wasn't close to what I require for my multi-purpose room. But it's 30,000:1 without Iris CR was sexy.

At 2500 Lumens, I hope the LV is plenty bright enough. Unfortunetly, I won't truelly know until it's all setup.

Is the HD81 LV a two-piece setup also?

Jeff, is the Optoma products that bad? Or is it thier customer service?

What about the LV itself? How is it's overall customer approval rating?

I am new at the HT game but have done enough homework to know that my sound system and screen is about the only components that will not be replaced very often if at all. At this time I am just looking for the right 1080p PJ that will fit my budget and demand for fine PQ. I've accepted that I will probably be buying another PJ in 3-5 years as the better technology warrants.

I just want to purchase the right PJ for my fixed 110" SI Reference Screen. The projection calculator at ProjectorCentral says the HD81 LV is too bright for my screen size. Argg...I don't want to buy the wrong $5k projector. I guess it's time for some more research.

JTHV,

I have received great customer service from Optoma--problem is I have needed customer service too often. Optoma offers a great warranty for the LV and the bulb. The two-piece system is great, so much connectivity, the HD3000 scaler is highly rated.

DLP has much better mixed field CR than any LCD, DILA or SXRD projector. I just haven't seen the three dimensional imagery that is common to DLP as readily with other technologies, not even the JVC RS-1 and its great blacks.

As far as your 110" screen size--don't worry about the calculator. The LV is very bright, then you turn off Brilliant Color, do D65 calibration, turn down the iris for a decent CR, bulb aging, now you have the real lumens. My screen is 100" wide and 1.3 gain and my LV is not too bright.

Jeff...all of your information and help is greatly appreciated.

What your suggesting is that I place the LV PJ where I want it at 16" away from my 110" screen and by turning down the Brilliant Color and Iris the lumens won't be as high or as bright as I'm fearing?

Also, am I ignoring the projection calculator becuase it only calculates at peak lumens or on high output mode thus not giving you an accurate reading of what you can expect after tweaking the system or having it calibrated professionally?

Thanks again...

JTHV,

Brightness is subjective, but one thing I know is that you can't go by most manufacturers specs on lumens. They are not real world home theater viewing reality. The LV has a 2500 lumen spec, the reality is more like 1000 lumens after turning off gimmick circuits, D65 calibration, closing down the iris for max. CR, the inevitable bulb output decrease with hours.

You could always ad an ND filter to the lens if the LV was too bright when you
first bought it. I run in low power mode because the LV is too noisy in brite mode. I don't believe you mentioned what gain your screen is. A high power
screen could be too bright, and not very good off-axis.

I would recommend looking at BenQ and InFocus 1080P DLP projectors as well,
or if you can't see them, compare tested specs and reviews from the net and
magazines. I paid as much as I could afford for my projector, and didn't want to buy a separate scaler on top of that, so the Optoma two-piece setup was a money saver. Also, Optoma was ahead of the curve with anamorphic lens
compatibility for the price at the time.

Problems with Optoma HD81 and HTPC via DVI to HDMI connection.

Last week I got the projector installed again, this time it was installed right so I didn't need to make any keystone correction (The input signal that I was using was a 576i RGBS)

Yesterday I tried to connect my HTPC to it with DVI-HDMI cable (using HDMI 1 input) but the image doesn't fit the whole screen, but only the center of the screen.

The projector's firmware version is C08.

How can I fix this issue ?

Jeff

My screen gain is 1.0

As far as "off-axis" goes, I don't really know the terminology very well but it your talking about where the PJ will be mounted, I can tell you that the PJ will be mounted on my cieling, directly in the middle of the screen.

Optoma's two-piece setup is an attractive setup for me too. I don't have a scaler as of now and wouldn't know where to start with that as it is. I hear the scaler included with the HD81 and LV is a steller scaler so to me that's another check mark on Optoma's side.


Btw, as much as I wanted it, between the pricey motorized screen and the $4k anamorphic lense, I had to pass on the 2:35:1....way over my budget.

Mr. Mario Man,

I'll just throw out a simple thing to check, probably not the issue, but I don't
know much about HTPC. Make sure the aspect ratio is not in Native mode.

I've yet to get a computer to look decent via the VGA input, haven't tried a
computer via DVI to HDMI, although I have used an Analog Way Di-VentiX professional seamless switcher/scaler via DVI to HDMI with great results,
where it was outputting 1080P so the VXP processor didn't have to do anything.

JTHV,

By off-axis I mean the optimal viewing cone that a high power screen exhibits.
Not an issue with your 1.0 gain screen. Your projector installation must be
positioned in the center, especially with an Optoma HD8x chassis, which has
no placement flexibility.

Every 720P or 1080P display has a scaler, normally built-in to the chassis, so
it can deal with 480i and 480P sources, among other tasks. What I don't like
about that(this includes LCD flat panels) is the lack of connectivity and having
to send too many cables to the projector. This is why I like a two-piece solution,
plus the high-end stand alone processors usually offer more setup parameters.

Going back to Optoma customer service, the reason replacing three HD-81's
wasn't as painful for me as it's been for others is because I live 45 minutes away,
very little downtime, no shipping expense--not that having to pull the projectors
off of the ceiling and the processors out of the rack isn't a pain.

I have lived with lots of features that didn't work properly, firmware bugs,
broken promises regarding firmware updates over the net and abysmal reliability
from the HD-81. The LV has been reliable--the first HD8x series to get past 300
hours for me--but still suffers from the need for D65 calibration, useless auto iris,
Film Mode 48Hz disabled in Letterbox mode, which turns out to be a moot point
because my HD DVD player and the LV doesn't do a proper HDMI handshake to
enable 24P output.

Jeff,

Can you explain a little bit more on D65 calibration.When you say D65 calibration is that something I need to have done professionally and do I only have to have done once as long as I don't have to replace the calibrated projector because of failure?

Hey Art,

I went looking for the firmware upgrade on the optoma web site. Didn't find it but noticed it states taht for the LV, the bulb has a 1 year warranty.

I cannot imagine you have had your LV for a year yet.

joe

Joe,

THANKYOU JOE!!!!

I just found this message yesterday. I emailed Wayne Pierce and he telephoned me to return my original bulb for a replacement. You just saved me $500.00. BTW, My HD81-LV is working beautifully.

I took the opportunity to ask Wayne about the "forced 24 fps" issue. He said that he had not heard of any plans to upgrade the firmware to accept newer players that do not "force" 24 fps. He did offer to take the issue to Optoma's management. We can only hope. Frankly, the PQ and sound from my system is so amazing right now that I am afraid to change anything. I am running:

HD81-LV
Integra 9.8 Controller
A35 HD DVD Player
BD30 BluRay Player
ADCOM 5802 and 7500 Amps
VMPS ST3 and custom made center, EV Sentry III, Dynaco A25 Spkrs
TEAC6010 GSL R to R
Nakamichi Dragon
LG LST 3410A (2) HD DVR's
Comcast HDMI HD DVR
Pioneer DVL 700 Laser disc Player
Motorola 922 & HDD200 C Band satellite

I mention these because I have been upgrading my system for over 5 years. I am now at rest and dam satisfied with how it is working. Thanks again for your help.

You are entirely welcome.

Did you ever find the firmware upgrade for the LV?

Joe

Problems with Optoma HD81 and HTPC via DVI to HDMI connection.
Yesterday I tried to connect my HTPC to it with DVI-HDMI cable (using HDMI 1 input) but the image doesn't fit the whole screen, but only the center of the screen.

The projector's firmware version is C08.

How can I fix this issue ?

Does the htpc recognize the 1080p Optoma projector? If it does, then you need to right-click on your desktop, go to display settings tab and crank your resolution as high as it will go.

Joe

Joe et al,

Could we get some clarification, i.e. straight talk, about the firmware upgrade recently discussed here. Is that for real? If so, how do we upgrade? I can call Warren but frankly, I prefer to limit my calls to him so as not to become a nuisance. Please guys, if there is no real upgrade, let's not spread false rumors. What improvemnts were facilitated by the upgrade? No BS please. Did it happen or not? I have terribly slow connection times when changing resolutions. This occurs with my Comcast/Motorola HD DVR. If fit resolved this, that would dbe worth the effort. Of course I know it is not the 24 fps solution because Warren as much as admitted they do not plan to fix that. They should though because I and all of you should be unable to connect at 24 fps. Is anyoneconnecting at 24 fps?

Art,

Personally I know absolutely nothing about any upgrade. I had read it in a previous post but have not seen anything since. Maybe there is no such thing.

I do remember Tom (Guitarman) telling us a while back that there was something wonderful built into the LV that would be exposed at a later time.

But, like you, I am experiencing an amazing picture and am very happy. I am not experiencing the long switch-overs that you are seeing. Unless by long you are talking 5 seconds or so.

Joe

Joe,

My only issue is with the long (1 mimunte) and sometimes impossible sync times as I switch from 480i or 480p to 1080i programming with my Comcast/Motorola cable box. Neither the Cable box norr the 81 are to blame. When I connect them directly via HDMI, it works perfectly. It is when I pass through the Integra 9.8 controller that everything ggets slow. Even if I set the controller on "Through" it is slow. I am unable to use the loop from the VXD because it just will not sync or it takes a magician to choose the correct turn on sequence. The HDMI protocols on our LV must be a generation older than the 1.3a protocols used today. Even so, the pQ is second to none from all of the HDMI inputs, HD DVD, Blu Ray, Comcast HD DVR, and (2) LG LST-3410 HD DVR's. The latter 2 connect directly to the VXD and with OTA as the source produce PQ that is gorgeous. The players and the Comcast HD DVR route through the Controller. I do get better sync of fthe Comcast box if I use the REON in the controller. The 2 HD players sync well if I use the REON in the VXD. I am happy but sure would like to see slicker operation.

Art,

Does the Comcast/Motorola box have an upscale mode vs. sending out native?
I used to run my DirecTV receivers in native mode until I got tired of waiting for
the VXP to process the new resolutions changing from channel to channel.

Letting the DirecTV reciever do the upscaling results in fast channel changes,
no "Processing" window. The Integra issue is a whole other can of worms.

Art,

Personally I know absolutely nothing about any upgrade. I had read it in a previous post but have not seen anything since. Maybe there is no such thing.

I do remember Tom (Guitarman) telling us a while back that there was something wonderful built into the LV that would be exposed at a later time.

But, like you, I am experiencing an amazing picture and am very happy. I am not experiencing the long switch-overs that you are seeing. Unless by long you are talking 5 seconds or so.

Joe

Still can't talk about it, but it's there with the LV and in some of the new RGBCYM color wheeled projectors. Just understand it results in a much better and high level of contrast and brightness.

Art,

Does the Comcast/Motorola box have an upscale mode vs. sending out native?
I used to run my DirecTV receivers in native mode until I got tired of waiting for
the VXP to process the new resolutions changing from channel to channel.

Letting the DirecTV reciever do the upscaling results in fast channel changes,
no "Processing" window. The Integra issue is a whole other can of worms.

Hi Jeff,

The Comcast/Motorola box allows you to choose the output resolution from among the normal settings, 480i, 480p, 720p and 1080i. I set mine at 1080i. That signal passes "Through" the Integra 9.8 unaltered because that is the way I set the 9.8. Nevertheless, when the program requires a resolution change, it can take 2 minutes or even more to resync. Sometimes it will never sync. If I set the 9.8 to a fixed output resolution, it will always sync but may take 30 sec to accomplish when changing program resolutions. I am called bad names for not switching to component but the PQ is outstanding via HDMI and Ihate going backwards.

The Integra 9.8 is an amazing device. If you are into AV as a hobby and like to be on the leading edge when being there means that you will enjoy a significant improvement in audio and or video quality, the 9.8 is definitely worth considering. The ability to process all the codecs available on both HD DVD and BluRay as well as providing room equalization/delay using the Audyssey system, makes it the next device you have to buy. IT is wonderful.

Except for the 24 fps isue, my system is working so well that I revel in the joy of turning it on every night. Look into the Integra.

Does the htpc recognize the 1080p Optoma projector? If it does, then you need to right-click on your desktop, go to display settings tab and crank your resolution as high as it will go.

Joe

Yes, it does recognize it as HD81.

The HTPC sends 1080p60 signal to the HD81 (it states on the projector's menu) and the problem still occurs.

Hi Jeff,
The Comcast/Motorola box allows you to choose the output resolution from among the normal settings, 480i, 480p, 720p and 1080i. I set mine at 1080i. That signal passes "Through" the Integra 9.8 unaltered because that is the way I set the 9.8. Nevertheless, when the program requires a resolution change, it can take 2 minutes or even more to resync. Sometimes it will never sync. If I set the 9.8 to a fixed output resolution, it will always sync but may take 30 sec to accomplish when changing program resolutions.

Art,

If the Comcast/Motorola box is upconverting everything to 1080i, there should be no resolution changing. If the Integra isn't doing any scaling, I don't understand why there is a resyncing issue. It sounds like the Integra and the HD81-LV are having an HDMI handshake issue.

I am very disappointed that I've yet to see a 1080/24p frame rate using Film Mode 48Hz with my LV. I was hoping the A35 would do it,
but obviously this is not to be with any HD DVD player and an HD-81 or LV. I am waiting for a Profile 2.0 Blu Ray machine that will force 24p, decode all lossless audio codecs on-board and have net connectivity. If it was a combo player, that would be even better, but I'm not holding my breath.

Still can't talk about it, but it's there with the LV and in some of the new RGBCYM color wheeled projectors. Just understand it results in a much better and high level of contrast and brightness.

Sounds like "Brilliant Color" to me.

It's something else.

Hi again friends,

I had a very pleasant and honest conversation with Warren today. He was calling me in response to my request to ask the folks at Optoma if they would do anything about the "forced 24 fps" issue. He did ask and the answer was simply "No". Optoma will not be issuing any revised software to fix this incompatibility issue. Bottom line appears to be that if it is important to you that the 24 fps material display at 48 fps, you will need to find one of the handful of players that "force 24 fps". I can assure you that in my experience, the only one that seemed to do the trick in my home (and I am not 100% sure of that) was the Sony BDP-300. The Panasonic BD-30, and the Toshiba XA2 and A35 do not. We lose again guys. We discussed the issue for a while and wound up agreeing that it is probably too far along in the product cycle to expect any more engineering refinements to this system. Warren emphasized the fact that the VXD will be a fixture in the Optoma lineup for some time. He reiterated that the HD81-LV is Optoma's flagship projector and will be for the foreseeable future.

I will continue to press for changes to the A35 and BD30 firmware but in light of the fact that testing has demonstrated that even the latest 2.8 firmware for the XA2 will not enable 24 fps with our 81's, I don't think there is any chance that we will ever get to experience 24 fps through our projectors. I have heard thatthe PS3 does force 24 fps. Perhaps some of you have been successful with a PS3, HD81-LV combination.

I am not sure how this would "force" 24 fps from either the BD30 or A35 but if you think it will work, please let mme know.

My 24fps-supporting projector is still out on loan, so I have not had a chance to test this.

But the reason I expect that it will work is because the 81lv does not advertise that it supports 24fps in the EDID data it sends to players like the BD30 and A35. But if it did, then those players would know to do 24fps like they do with other 24fps-supporting projectors.

So my plan is to record the EDID from my 24fps-supporting projector in the gefen dvi-detective and then stick the gefen in the loop with the 81lv. Thus the player will see the 24fps EDID, not the 81lv's EDID. At which point the player should be happy to go into 24fps mode.

Please let me know if tis works. You are my last hope since OPTOMA, Toshiba and Panasonic do not give a s___. Sad but true.

Yes, it does recognize it as HD81.

The HTPC sends 1080p60 signal to the HD81 (it states on the projector's menu) and the problem still occurs.

I am at a loss other than possible trying new drivers? Mine works perfectly. One other thought, I was having similar trouble until I made the projector the #1 screen.

Joe

My 24fps-supporting projector is still out on loan, so I have not had a chance to test this.

But the reason I expect that it will work is because the 81lv does not advertise that it supports 24fps in the EDID data it sends to players like the BD30 and A35. But if it did, then those players would know to do 24fps like they do with other 24fps-supporting projectors.

So my plan is to record the EDID from my 24fps-supporting projector in the gefen dvi-detective and then stick the gefen in the loop with the 81lv. Thus the player will see the 24fps EDID, not the 81lv's EDID. At which point the player should be happy to go into 24fps mode.

JerryW,

I think this is a great idea. I did this when using a CRT projector to fool an
HDMI source into handshaking with a non-compliant display(not even a digital display for that matter). This was by way of the Moome card that had custom EDID settings.

Please let us know when you have a chance to do some testing.

Thank you!

It's something else.

So, this would bring up the question, if this is in the HD81-LV, what is Optoma
waiting for?

Jeff,

I have some swamp land for you and in the middle of it is an HD81-LV and in the middle of the LV is a ....

I have some swamp land for you and in the middle of it is an HD81-LV and in the middle of the LV is a ....Couldn't agree more. I'm still waiting for the ability to update the firmware in my HD81, and that was promised. Just imagine the wait for "hidden gems".

:(

So I sent my HD81 back in for repair last Tuesday. It would go into this weird mode where the color wheel would make a really loud noise as if it was suddenly spinning much faster. The image would be visible but the colors would be all screwy and there would be weird artifacts occasionally. This 'mode' occured intermittently for several months before I sent it in (delayed for fear of receiving back an unfixed unit.)

I can relate to a number of the issues that people have had with this projector. As it is so obvious to me that many of these are inherent to the design I have lived with these issues and tried to enjoy the excellent image that the projector displays when it is working. I have only sent the projector in when it completely stopped working - this is the second time in approximately 15 months of ownership.

On the suggestion of forum members, I have emailed Warren Pierce in an effort to try and ensure my worst problems with this projector are resolved. First, and foremost, the color wheel issue but secondly an issue with overheating. Ever since I sent my projector in the first time I have been unable to run the projector in normal fan mode without frequent shutdowns. I was initially running C04 and they upgraded me to C08 during the repair. I have been enduring the projector in 'high-altitude' mode ever since. This really sucks as the projector is right over our heads and as owners here know - these things are very loud. I think it is unacceptable that it is necessary to run the projector in this loud mode to prevent (err, reduce) shutdowns. Oh, and BTW I am at ~500 feet elevation, the room temperature is kept under 70 degrees fahrenheit at all times, and the projector has unrestricted ventilation on all sides. Furthermore, high-altitude mode doesn't eliminate shutdowns entirely, it just makes them far more tolerable.

I should note that I have a very early projector. I bought the projector from AV science and it was from the first batch they received. I have heard some of the early boards had overheating issues?

I fear that they will repair the color wheel issue but not fix the high-altitude mode issue. Or even worse, the projector will work for them and they will do nothing. This would majorly suck as each time I send it in is 2+ weeks without a projector and $100 in shipping.

They have had the unit for several days now and I am going to send a follow up email to Warren.

Anyone who has had similar issues please comment on what was done to resolve the issue (if you know) and what I should request be done. Any other suggestions are appreciated. It would be really great if this thing would just work like it is supposed to as it would shut down a major stream of c**p that I get from the wife.

Thanks!

Brett

big brett,

If I were you, I would ask Warren to upgrade you to an LV. There are inherent issues in the 81 that can not be resolved. I have not regreted my upgrade to an LV. I no longer have any issues except for my inability to run at 48Hz because the 81's must be forced into 24 fps mode. Consider my words carefully. You will be happy for listening to me and begging Warren. It might cost you a bit but in the end, you will have something you can be proud of that operates trouble free.

Art,

Thanks for the response. I am happy to hear that the LV is treating you so well. I know by your posts here that you don't accept mediocre products. I just wish that I too was the owner of an LV instead of my 81. :(

I sent an RMA request and a very detailed email to Warren describing my issues and concerns. At the end of the email I asked for an upgrade path to the LV. Unfortunately, the only response I got to my email was an RMA number from a separate rep.

I do not doubt for one second that your statement that 'There are inherent issues in the 81 that can not be resolved' is 100% accurate. As someone who has managed product development and has experience in many phases of hardware design (both mechanical and electronic), embedded programming, etc., the HD81's inherent flaws are very apparent to me. It is like living with a working prototype. It is clear that the designers are very intelligent and innovative but the proper steps were not taken to ensure that the end product was ready for production. This reflects directly on the upper management at Optoma.

As an HD81 owner, I am certainly very concerned about my 'investment'. I just don't see this projector going the distance. I am afraid I will have a worthless plastic box at the end of 3 years - broken, with no warranty, and no resale value. As an earlier adopter who dropped $6500 on this projector, that is a tough pill to swallow.

I am definitely concerned that the projector I will receive back is not going to be acceptable. If Optoma can't or is unwilling to fix the problems with the HD81 then they should replace the defective units with the next higher model in the catalog at no charge.

Hopefully I can resolve my situation without too much conflict.

Thanks,

Brett

If he sent you an RMA number, tha means that they are willing to help you. Call the man who signed the note that came to you. Beg!!!!

what are the differences between the 81 and LV models........in non-technical terms for us regular folks........thanks

The 81 was Optoma's very first attempt at manufacturing a state of the art 1080p two piece front projector. It was supposed to do all the things that were just becoming popular in the AV press and absolute necessities for those who wanted to be at the cutting edge. This included 1080 progressive, 24 fps playback from the high definition players of three years ago, a two piece system to avoid having to run multiple wires for each input device all the way to the projector, the ability to automatically select an automated lens system which shrunk the picture horizontally or vertically back to the proper dimensions after it had been appropriately expanded by on board electronics. It included a sophisticated bulb cooling system which avoided the need for air filters. The 81 included the then state of the art REON scaler/picture controller. There were many other things like high contrast and a dynamic picture.

While the 81 delivered on some of its promises, specially in the area of picture quality, it failed in one area miserably. It would not stay on reliably. Almost every 81 suffered from intermittent loss of picture resulting in either Blue screens or a complete lock up. They were very prone to failure under normal temperature conditions but if room temperature rose slightly above ambient, they immediately failed. Optoma tried to appease its customers through repeated exchanges and repairs to no avail. HD-81's kept failing. They also did not do what was claimed by the manufacturer. The automated lens system's compatibility only became a reality after multiple firmware upgrades. Optoma finally droppedd production of the 81.

The HD81-LV was supposed to be a Large Venue projector putting out much more light and providing a much more dynamic picture with the addition of picture alteration circuitry called "Brilliant Color" that was supposed to make viewing in lit conditions possible. Unfortunately, the alteration to the color spectrum is so terrible that for indoor use, it is all but useless unless you want to watch a football game in a brightly lit room. Under those conditions, the picture is quite visible but lacks any semblance to reality because of the bizarre coor relationships that are caused as a by product of the brightness and contrast enhancements.

The HD81-LV has one characteristic that ditinguishes it from its older sibling. It works. It does not fail. It is quieter. The anamorphic lens circuitry works. It does no suffer from overheating and it is black vs. the 81's white. The 81-LV puts out an amazing picture with much of the original units circuitry. It is the refined product that everone expected when the 81 came out. It does have some issues that remain unresolved like the fact that it will not go into anamorphic mode under certain conditions. For me its greatest fault is that it requires an HD DVD or BlluRay player that will force it to play back at 48 Hz. These are no longer available so you will never be able to play bach movies at multiples of 24 fps, a minor issue for some, a major one for others. Frankly, the 3:2 pull down is so good that using the 60 Hz signal produces a near fault free picture.

I love my 81-LV. I was unable to get my 81 to operate consistently. I went through 3 81 replacements and 1 LV replacement before getting a perfect unit. From what I hear, Optoma does not plan any more software or hardware upgrades to the 81-LV chassis so, what you get is what you will live with. While I could have gone throug each technical difference between the two, the truth is that there aren't that many. I have covered the major ones. I hope this helps. Remember that regardless of the difference in price, the LV works reliably, the 81 does not.

thanks for a very extensive response..........i was debating between LV and the epson pro cinema pro UB ?? not sure which one to get ????????

Well I did get a response from Warren regarding my projector. It was quite generic- basically stating that he has forwarded my information to the repair technician; that he told the repair technician to spend extra time on my projector and telling me that the technician would take good care of the projector.

I certainly appreciate his efforts and those of the technician (assuming that he does as indicated) but I am still very apprehensive. The technician can only work with what he is provided. This projector looks so incredible when it is working - it is such a shame that it is plagued with these issues.

I sense that I will have to go through quite a mess to get any concessions from Optoma. If the projector I get back doesn't stay on reliably in normal fan mode than it is going back.

BTW, any HD81 owners here that don't have problems with shutdowns?

Brett

BTW, any HD81 owners here that don't have problems with shutdowns?I've been remarkably lucky with my HD81, only two blue screens in about 16 months of usage (about 380 hours on the bulb, so I don't use for more than about 4-5 hours a week).

But I would NOT recommend an Optoma projector. I have a weird smear at the top of the picture and Optoma says its the inside of the lens that is dirty. I have great fear and apprehension about sending in the unit - many people have gotten units back that have been significantly worse after repair. I fear I will send the unit in to get the lens cleaned and the blue screens will appear. It might seem silly to some, but for those who have read this thread from beginning to end I'm certain it makes good sense.

Simple,

I would never live with a smear as you describe. Send it in. The longer you wait, the more likely they will say that you caused it or it is normal aging. Do not delay my friend.

I no longer have any issues except for my inability to run at 48Hz because the 81's must be forced into 24 fps mode. Beg, borrow or steal a PS3. I just found out that the PS3 can FORCE 24 fps. I would love to know if the 81's can really handle 24 fps.

Beg, borrow or steal a PS3. I just found out that the PS3 can FORCE 24 fps. I would love to know if the 81's can really handle 24 fps.

I used a Sony 300 successfuly on the 81 at 48Hz. Unfortunately the 300 died in 2 weeks and newer machines will not do 24 fps.

Problem with the PS3 is that it will not bitstream advanced codecs to my Integra 9.8.

To be honest, I could not see any difference when I ran at 24 fps. I am sure there must have been, I just was not bowled over by it.

I have a PS3 and HD81 so I will try this tonight. I did try using the XA2 forced mode but got no joy. I wasn't sure how I would tell anyway with the HD81. Does it say anywhere?

I wonder if someone could read the warranty card that comes with the HD81 and verify that the standard warranty is transferable?

Thanks.

BTW, any HD81 owners here that don't have problems with shutdowns?
Brett

I too am one of the early buyers, im still running 04, no shut down problems. the bulb did go out pre-maturely at around 200 hrs, but so far, its still running an looking great. I havent sent it in for an up date to 08 for fear of after-repair problems. I use the panomor lens and would like to use the auto lens fuction but its not worth the chance of getting a bad repaired unit back. Not happy to hear that I will probally be haveing problems soon, because I too have dropped some big bucks,in my eyes. Class action suit would be the best option, rather then dishing out more money on a LV., if anyone hears of anything like that, count me in.
1gasman

My almost 1 year old Optoma HD81 projector has developed a problem with faint horizontal lines showing in bright areas in the upper part of the image. Is this something anyone here recognizes? Searching for "horizontal lines" turned up some Ruby results but no Optoma DLPs. My old Davis CinemaOne DLP never exhibited any issues similar to this. For images see http://xnk.nu/hd81.

Note that the same lines appear no matter if the scaler is connected or not (unplugging the scaler HDMI connector in the projector gives me the bright blue default image, also showing the lines, so I'm sure it's not a cabling or scaler issue, and the fact that it seems to be sub-pixel also supports the idea that it has to be something internal to the projector unit). The lines were a bit tricky to document with my camera, they are more visible in real life than in the images, but the white image definitely shows something's not completely right..

Any pointers what might cause this?

/wj

Interesting reading. I'm compelled to throw my 2 cents in. I for one can't understand why a company knowing that they have a problem with a certian product, don't go out of their way to make the customer satisfied. My HD81 has had problems since day one, 3 times in less than one year. Blue screen drop out everytime I used it, green screen, unit burned up, bad remote, need I say more. When I asked to upgrade & pay the difference to the LV I was told a flat out NO!!! ..... unbeleivable.......... I will never do business with this manufactor again, nor will I recommend them to anyone. Buyer beware.

My almost 1 year old HD81 unit has developed faint evenly spaced horizontal lines across the screen, only visible in bright areas of the picture. I'm fairly confident it's not a cabling or scaler issue as the lines are visible even on the bright blue "default" background output by the projector unit when the HDMI connector to the scaler is disconnected. It was really tricky to take a photo of it, it's less visible on the photos. Anyone seen anything like this before? This is my third DLP projector and I've never seen anything like this. Googling for horizontal lines returns a few Pearl hits, but nothing relevant to DLP as I could see.

Images available here: http://xnk.nu/hd81

/Werner

wjo,

The fact that I am unable to see the lines does not mean they are not there. I believe you. I have been through 4 units and have my own sad tales but the Optoma support I have received has been first class. They have bent over backwards trying to keep me happy. The problem is a bad design, not the support AFAIC.

wjo,

The fact that I am unable to see the lines does not mean they are not there. I believe you. I have been through 4 units and have my own sad tales but the Optoma support I have received has been first class. They have bent over backwards trying to keep me happy. The problem is a bad design, not the support AFAIC.

It was very difficult to get the DSLR to capture the problem, maybe because of the demosaicing going on in the camera together with the refresh rate of the projector. There are two horizontal lines on the white image (one more or less in the center of the image and one close to the bottom). The image is of the very top left corner of the screen. There are roughly 16 lines in total over the entire screen. The large original image in uncompressed mode in the web browser will show the two faint lines that are slightly darker than the rest of the image, but they are difficult to spot the first time, but when you know they're there it's too easy...

The main reason why the support is having issues right now is that the unit currently is in Sweden, but was originally bought in the US. Nothing in the warranty card says anything about not being able to service it world-wide, but then again, nothing states that I'm supposed to be able to do it either... :| I get the impression that the US support is much better that the European at this point.

/wj

h81, 04 version, been working great but 1 bulb replaced at 300 hours. Now at about 400 hours on new bulb during watching the NBA game sunday, I get a click, a full blue screen, then black and white evenly spaced vertical bars, then a blank sceen. Lamp lite then blinks. tried letting cool down, but when I turn it back on, I just get the CLICK, vertical bars, then it shuts down with the lamp lite blinking. Any one seen this??, not sure if its the bulb again because of the black and white bars, if it is, it will be 2 bulbs in 1 1/2 years, with an average life of 350 hrs per bulb. I will call optoma tommarrow.

1gasman

1gasman,

Your bulb experience I believe is probably normal, specially if you use it on bright. I have changed 3 bulbs so far 840, 300+ and 380+. These projectors put out a great picture but frankly I would give up some of that great picture to have a reliable, cost effective and QUIET one. My repaired unit measures 38 dB at 1 meter from the projector housing. I am so angry. Warren says that the Techs at his shop checked and approved the operation of my unit. I guess that is the issue....Poor expectations on the part of those who repair these things. Increasingly, I fear that my only solution is to throw away my $7,000.00 projector. What a fool I am.

My repaired unit measures 38 dB at 1 meter from the projector housing. I am so angry. Warren says that the Techs at his shop checked and approved the operation of my unit. I guess that is the issue....Poor expectations on the part of those who repair these things. Increasingly, I fear that my only solution is to throw away my $7,000.00 projector. What a fool I am.What do you mean "repaired unit"? I though they gave you a brand new HD-81LV? Have you had to send that back as well?

--SimpleTheater

PS: I'm still living with that smear because I fear what will happen to my unit if I send it back in.

[QUOTE=MrHifi;13898364]1gasman,
Your bulb experience I believe is probably normal, specially if you use it on bright. I have changed 3 bulbs so far 840, 300+ and 380+.
======

Thanks art for info, Im going to get another bulb(I,ve got a bulb warrenty deal from a vendor). Optoma tech said send it in for a update and check the circutry, Im running 04 version.
What do u and the group think? has anyone up to now recieved one back and updated, with no or few problems? Ive read the far past notes.
Any process involving A class action or attorney general in place that anyone is aware of ?
Im going to make a few calls next week to a lawyer and the local better buisness, will see what i come up with.

1gasman

I seriously doubt anyone else is having this problem, but on the Internet, you never know. Even if you aren't having this problem, if you can think of why its happening or of some type of solution I'll be sure to try it.

I use an RF remote (but it also blasts out the IR signals). All of my equipment is hidden from view. Turning on the Optoma is never a problem, the remote works flawlessly. Recently turning OFF the Optoma has become a problem and I can't figure out why. Obviously the RF receiver is working fine because it never has a problem turning the unit on or switching to a different input. But the RF won't turn off the unit (never even gets to the "Are you sure, YES/NO" screen). At first I thought the IR code was bad, but if I point the remote directly at the Optoma, it shuts down without a hiccup.

I'm at a loss - even tried a DIFFERENT RF remote with no change in outcome.

Re Horizontal lines
I had a problem like that with my old sharp z10k, it turnrd out after a long time examining everything electronic to be a moire pattern on the screen !
to confirm this- just defocus the lens slightly on the problem scene and see if it goes away

h81, 04 version, been working great but 1 bulb replaced at 300 hours. Now at about 400 hours on new bulb during watching the NBA game sunday, I get a click, a full blue screen, then black and white evenly spaced vertical bars, then a blank sceen. Lamp lite then blinks. tried letting cool down, but when I turn it back on, I just get the CLICK, vertical bars, then it shuts down with the lamp lite blinking. Any one seen this??, not sure if its the bulb again because of the black and white bars, if it is, it will be 2 bulbs in 1 1/2 years, with an average life of 350 hrs per bulb. I will call optoma tommarrow.

1gasman

Did you ever figure out if your problem was the bulb? My projector just did the EXACT same thing as yours and I'd like to know if the bulb really went or if this is something more serious.

had lots issues with my hd81 but i sent it back for repair when it finaly broke and optoma uk this time replaced all the parts (4) and returned it 9 days later.

its working perfectly.

quiet,
no blue flicking screen.

goes some way towards the problems i have had with them in the past.

I have have very intermitant luck controlling my HD81-LV with learned codes from an iPronto. Like you, power on works pretty well. I've gotten power off to work with a macro from hell that sends the commands with various delays a bunch of times. Switching HDMI inputs often doesn't work the first time.

My next step is to re-learn the IR codes both single push and held down and see if I can get something to work consistently.

(FWIW, I'm using a niles IR extender not RF)


I seriously doubt anyone else is having this problem, but on the Internet, you never know. Even if you aren't having this problem, if you can think of why its happening or of some type of solution I'll be sure to try it.

I use an RF remote (but it also blasts out the IR signals). All of my equipment is hidden from view. Turning on the Optoma is never a problem, the remote works flawlessly. Recently turning OFF the Optoma has become a problem and I can't figure out why. Obviously the RF receiver is working fine because it never has a problem turning the unit on or switching to a different input. But the RF won't turn off the unit (never even gets to the "Are you sure, YES/NO" screen). At first I thought the IR code was bad, but if I point the remote directly at the Optoma, it shuts down without a hiccup.

I'm at a loss - even tried a DIFFERENT RF remote with no change in outcome.

I have have very intermitant luck controlling my HD81-LV with learned codes from an iPronto. Like you, power on works pretty well. I've gotten power off to work with a macro from hell that sends the commands with various delays a bunch of times. Switching HDMI inputs often doesn't work the first time.

My next step is to re-learn the IR codes both single push and held down and see if I can get something to work consistently.

(FWIW, I'm using a niles IR extender not RF)That's pretty much what I do as well - send the "On" code once and it works. Send the "Off / Enter" code 10 times (I may up it to fifty). Same problems with switching to HDMI. I'm using the URC MR-350 RF Extender (not IR).

I'm also waiting patiently (over 2 weeks now) to get my HD81 back from Optotma. They are taking their sweet time waiting for a new I/O board. It seems the HDMI on the board has failed (that's why I got the previous problem I reported on this thread).

Just got word that Optoma is STILL waiting for my I/O board. So who can suggest the next step? Do I complain to someone about being without a projector for nearly a month?

Hi,

Anyone have a used HD3000 that comes with the HD81 for sale? My house was burgled while I was away on vacation and I lost all the 'light' stuff out of my rack, including my existing hd3000.

Anyways if anyone is looking to upgrade drop me a line via pm and I can take the scaler off your hands. And I apologize if these types of posts aren't allowed:)

Thanks guys,
Tristan

That's pretty much what I do as well - send the "On" code once and it works. Send the "Off / Enter" code 10 times (I may up it to fifty). Same problems with switching to HDMI. I'm using the URC MR-350 RF Extender (not IR).

I'm also waiting patiently (over 2 weeks now) to get my HD81 back from Optotma. They are taking their sweet time waiting for a new I/O board. It seems the HDMI on the board has failed (that's why I got the previous problem I reported on this thread).One big positive of sending my unit back for the I/O board replacement is that I no longer have to send multiple codes to the HD81 - first one every time. Obviously I didn't modify my remote, so this was definitely a problem with the HD81, not my URC RF.

Well,

It is a sad day at the Morris household. My HD81 has finally decided to give me some fits. Actual, it won't finish its power cycle at all.

When I turn the projector on everything loooks normal except I get a new faint high pitched whine that I did not have before. I can see the bulb light up inside the lens but after about 5 seconds the buld goes dark. Then after about 30 seconds the red light blinks indicating a bulb failure.

I wanted to get some thoughts before I try and change the bulb out. The new whining sound and the fact the buld temporarily goes on makes me doubt it is the bulb itself.

I have unplugged both units and let them sit and then pluggend them back in. Same results.

Anyong have any ideas?

Thanks

Joe

All,

I thought that maybe I got the one good HD81 that Optoma made - almost no issues other than an occasional case where it would not start up (behaves as if the RS232 cable is disconnected, but starts up fine on the second attempt). Then came last night when I got the exact same problem that Joe described in his post from a year ago.

My initial thought was that the lamp was blown, as the lamp LED was flashing. However, on closer inspection as I tried to restart it, I noticed that there was indeed another faint sound after the initial color wheel start-up and the bulb was on for a short while.

I guess it is time for a call to Optoma and/or an email to Warren (is he still around?).

Mike

Warren is still with Optoma.

Thanks. The email I sent to him got bounced back, but I submitted my issue to tech support on the Optoma website and they responded quickly. I now have my RMA number and will be packing up the machine tonight.

Mike

Hi everybody!
My question is: how can I run service menu (Optoma HD81) and check the total working time of lamp? Thanks in advance:)

Hello ALL, this is my first post in AVS forums. I have been reading these forums now for more then 3 years every since I got the Benq PE7700 Projector (and find this is an excellent source of information out of all the forums i have come across on the net). I have since upgraded in March 2008to an Optoma HD81. I am surprised that there has not been many threads on this HD81 forum for a while.

I intially had problems with the HD81 in that it would give me a blue screen at random. To resolve this I would have to run the projector in high altitude mode (I am in the UK, London). However to resolve this Optoma were nice enough to call in a repair and replace some board in the unit (could be something linked to the HDMI circuit). However when I got it back and used it for a period of a few weeks the image became very dark with low hours on the bulb. After sending back it was established that the bulb needed replacing. Optoma were excellent in understanding that I had previous problems so they resolved the issue by replacing the bulb. They hinted that this was most likely caused by using the projector in high altitude mode when not necessary to, and this could have week'nd the bulb. Thought I would mention this as over the year or so I have read this whole thread and noticed other users had similar problems so thought this would help.

I was hoping more threads would appear here in terms of tweaking and configuration or more recent stuff peeps' have come across to improve the picture further. Unfortunatly I do not have the luxury of professional calibration and am doing everythng by eye. I am using a high power 2.8 gain screen material and the projector is ceiling mounted to a 90inch screen with a distance away requiring a 50% zoom. I have a skyhd box running 1080i and a PS3 using 1080p for Bluray. The xbox is set a 720p (I find games look and run better at this resolution with the optoma rescaling beautifully to the native resolution). Am using expensive Chord HDMI 1.3 cables between the components.

Sorry about the long thread...

Well,

I have been reading this thread on and off for the past 2 years. I purchased an Optoma HD-81 in March of 2007 and except for the remote control, I have had absolutely NO issues with it for almost 2 years. My remote sort of died on me - if I leave the batteries in it, it will eventually just stay permanently ON and drain the batteries. I have a programmable remote so as long as I keep the batteries out; I can use it when I need it for short bursts.

My lamp had about 1300 hours on it and the image was starting to look a bit dim. I got a new lamp last month and once I put it in, the WOW was back. The images with a fresh lamp are just gorgeous.

Last night while watching the Oscars, the projector suddenly went blank and the lamp light was flashing. I thought "oh no, my new lamp just blew out". However after powering down and restarting, I am getting the strange whirring noise that sounds like the color wheel. The lamp will power on then off and then the unit will try and power down, but stay on indefinitely until I pull the power plug.

I just sent my RMA request into Optoma so hopefully I will hear back from them soon and get this taken care of. I have 1 more year left on the manufacturer’s warranty and I also had a 1 year extended GE warranty after that.

Does anyone have information on how long the repairs that they do for these last? I know a few of you have been through 4 - 5 units earlier on. I know I am stuck with this thing although I have warranty coverage for another 2 years, but just was trying to see if this is a onetime thing, or do I have to look forward to more of this down the road.

hdcl,

Your troubles have just begun..... That noise you heard in the color wheel probably will not be fixed. Mine was not. They will tell you it is within specs. If they return a refurb to you, check it carefully..It probably passed through either my home or Jeffs. I am on my 4th bulb and second LV. Mine is getting very dim too. It sounds like a Waring Blender but will not deliver Daquiris. Good luck my friend.

I am not sure I understand. Right now the projector is effectively "dead". It will power on for a few minutes, but no image appears and it powers down. I assume when the repair it, it will start functioning again (though god knows for how long). The wierd noise is not that loud, I just need a working projector back again.

If you are not sensitive to the color wheel noise, then you should be fine. You mentioned a strange "whirring" noise. That noise in mine is more like a 400Hz whine that measures 42 dB SPL at 1 meter. I was told that the techs said that was within specs. Let it suffice to say that I have not had anyone come to watch TV with me since I got the latest noisy LV. Perhaps I am too cinycal but after 5 81's and 2 LV's and a couple of repairs on top of that, I have a right to be.

Might be worth unpluging the controller as well as the projector for about 10 minutes and then trying them both on, check hdmi and rs232 cable (remove, replug in) before you turn the gear back on.

Also from my experience with an Optoma HD80, it is at best worth spending some money on a surge plug for the projectors power connection (they cost upto £10)

The lamp dim situation is getting me worried if this happens over 1000 hours (I use eco mode). This happened to me once, but was suggested it was because I was using high altitude mode (as to avoid the previous blue screen issues I had before a repair resolved those)
I am on the second lamp...

I hope this is not some poor lamp design.

hello,regarding the projector lamps ,i can solve it,just tell me the questions, my skype myth_grace or u can send to grace at awolamps don com

To update my previous post about my HD-81 failure, before I sent it back to Optoma, I tested it with both the original "dim" lamp with 1600 hours on it and the brand new lamp I just received and it would not power on with either lamp. I shipped it back with the old "dim" lamp.

I received an email from Optoma indicating that the only problem with the projector was that the lamp had failed. I sent a note back to them that the probability that both the old and new lamps had failed was unlikely and asked for more clarification on exactly what tests they performed. I then spoke directly with their technician, Michael Brown a few days ago.

Basically he said that the lamp that had been shipped back failed their lamp tests and when they put a new test lamp into the projector, it powers up just fine. I expressed my concern about 2 lamps supposedly failing in the same week and he said they were conducting some more extended tests on the projector and that I should call back on Monday or Tuesday.

Fortunately, I have an extended lamp warranty (2 years) on the projector that was part of the purchase price. I called the warranty company and they are shipping me another new lamp.

If Optoma's tests don't uncover anything wrong with the projector, the only thing I can think of is that we were having really bad power problems here the past month and the projector was on during two minor power interruptions (less than 1 second). During both of them the projector lamp warning light came on and the projector powered down. After the cool down period, the projector powered up again but I have heard that this type of power interruption and immediate restart of a hot bulb is very bad for bulb life.

I have read elsewhere on the forums that a UPS is highly recommended for these types of projectors due to their UHP lamps. Does anyone have any comments or thoughts on this theory?

On my LV, whenever I want to recover quickly from a "Blue Screen', I pull the plug and replug and power up within 10 sec. If you got 1600 hours out of one of these, you should be thrilled. on my LV, I am dim at 1200 hours and can not use Bright mode without a blue screen shut down. I am on my third bulb with one lasting 300 hours and danother 500. Can not wait for this thing to fail completely so i can justify the cost of a new projector other than Optoma.

Sorry, I meant 1300 hours on the original lamp.

As far as unplugging the projector without letting the lamp cool down before restarting it, from what I have read about high pressure lamps, this is a BIG no no and will reduce the life of the bulb. The main issue with these types of lamps (the HD-81 is listed as a Super High Pressure / Ultra High Pressure lamp) is that they are not supposed to be relit without adequate cool down. This is why they have fans that run when you shut them down, to allow for a quicker restart. If they just aircooled, you would have to wait 10 - 15 minutes before restarting them instead of just 2-3 minutes.

You can do an internet search on "power interruption high pressure lamp" or check one of the many articles such as:

http://www.osram.fi/osram_fi/Professional/General_Lighting/High_pressure_discharge_lamps/POWERBALL_HCI_/Products/POWERBALL_HCI-TT.html

where it clearly states:

*Where possible, use a timer igniter (switch-off time of at least 15 minutes). Otherwise, switch off the luminaire for at least 15 minutes if a brief interruption has occurred to the mains voltage supply"

I know this is not the same lamp used in the HD-81, but it is the same basic technology. Your "hot unplugging" may be the cause of your reduced lamp life. There are many posts in this forum recommending the use of a UPS for DLP based front or rear projectors (search the forums for "UPS DLP").

When an 81 reverts to a blue screen, it might stay there forever unless you pull the plug. I have not had the luxury of waiting for it to cool down. Often, I must pull the plug and replug it as quickly as possible. Then I have to restart it. There is no choice involved. Blue screen and lockup are one in the same often. Remember that I have an LV which uses a 300 watt bulb. The cooling system is inadequate. It is that simple.

The latest update from Optoma is that the mainboard has gone bad and needs to be replaced. They discovered this on Monday, but as of today are "still working on it" <sigh>. Hopefully this means that my other new bulb is still fine.

Sigh, after a great run, my HD81 is starting to give me trouble. It turns on, goes through the startup sequence, then after maybe 30 seconds of image display it turns off with the lamp light blinking red. The user manual says blinking orange means lamp failure so... I guess that's it. I'll call Optoma on Monday and see what they say. I hope it's not a problem that I bought the projector second hand (from someone here on AVS :))

Sigh, after a great run, my HD81 is starting to give me trouble. It turns on, goes through the startup sequence, then after maybe 30 seconds of image display it turns off with the lamp light blinking red. The user manual says blinking orange means lamp failure so... I guess that's it. I'll call Optoma on Monday and see what they say. I hope it's not a problem that I bought the projector second hand (from someone here on AVS :))

I'm sure lamps are for sale to anyone who wants them.

I'm sure lamps are for sale to anyone who wants them.

Yes, I'm hoping it's just the lamp. I'm a bit skeptical though because the lamp seems to work fine for 0.5-1 min and I've never had any warnings.

Yes, I'm hoping it's just the lamp. I'm a bit skeptical though because the lamp seems to work fine for 0.5-1 min and I've never had any warnings.
I'm crossing my fingers its just a lamp. After one time in the shop for a bad main board, I haven't had any problems with my unit. But every time I turn on my Optoma, I remember the ONLY reason it's hanging from my ceiling is because Chief Mounts sent me an accessory via two day air so that it would arrive before the big football game. Optoma, the company that screwed up royally and didn't remove the mounting screw that was spinning in their housing and couldn't be used to mount the projector, wanted me to pay shipping and the cost for removing the screw $85 - even though the screw wasn't stripped (the brass housing is spinning inside the plastic hole). After a couple of days I called Chief and they didn't even charge me a penny to ship out the accessory that could make the mount work with only two screw holes.

So I'm definitely saving my penny's for a new projector, but it will definitely NOT be an Optoma. To think that if they treated me differently, they'd not only reap another $6,000 from me, but I've convinced two of my friends to go with cheap $1k BenQ's who were going to get Optoma's. Hopefully this post convinces MORE people to stay away from Optoma.

Yes, I'm hoping it's just the lamp. I'm a bit skeptical though because the lamp seems to work fine for 0.5-1 min and I've never had any warnings.

I have been through 5 lamps already. They last anywhere from a few hundred hours to over 1500. The 81 will continue to shut off until you replace the lamp. I guess that after they age a bit, the battery draws more current until the system shuts itself down. This is all speculation. My father has owned 2 Infocus projectors that ran until the bulb shut off. That occurred ay 200o+ hours. Guess that is the price we must may for the very bright image we see with the 81's.

HD81 gives me the "bad lamp" indicator, even with a brand new lamp. Tried to send to Optoma, but they checked my serial number and said it was a "refurb". It was sold to me as new, but that's not Optoma's fault. (are the warranties not transferrable? At this point in time, it wasnt even possible for this HD81 to be out of warranty, it hadnt been out long enough!). Rather than paying for out of warranty repair on a unit that is clearly a lemon and typically isn't ever fixed "right", I decided to save the money.

So brilliant me, i go buy a HD806. That was in march, now its dead already. I assumed it was a bad lamp, so i tried a brand new one and another spare, no dice. I send to Optoma via RMA, and I hear back from Mike that it's a bad lamp, but they only warranty the lamps for 90 days now so i need to spend another $579 to replace it. I explain that i've already tried three lamps, one of which was brand new, but the tech insists it works fine with their test lamp. So i tell them to go ahead and send it back to me "unrepaired". I've purchased yet another brand new lamp, and needless to say if the projector comes back (tomorrow) and it isn't the lamp, i'm going to be very unhappy. Why didnt i just let them replace the lamp? Two reasons, one their pricing was awful. Two, i want to see for myself that replacing the lamp fixes the problem.... i have a hard time beleiving all 3 of my lamps were defective, and i'll never beleive that 4 of them are.

So there is my rant, my question is more about the HD81. For you guys that have seen this issue (LED's show bad lamp even with a brand new one), does it typically turn out to be the IO board? Does anyone have a clue what it would costs to get that fixed? I'd like to have it as a backup since my HD806 will probably be in and out of RMA...

thanks,
Shane

I have put 4 lamps in my LV. These units really run the lamps hard. All my lamps came from Optoma but the last one. It has been in there for 2 months and working well. My last lamp lasted 1800 hours, more than twice what any other lamp lasted. Bottom line...these projectors provide a nice picture when they are working but unfortunately that is a very small portion of the time.

Just FYI to follow up on my old post, the new bulb fixed by lamp error. I'm not sure I understand completely why the bad bulb would light up briefly and why I wasn't warned that the end of bulb life was coming but, it's back up and running. I'm going to take it out of high altitude mode and see if I get more life out of the bulb that way.

I believe that as they age, these bulbs draw more current. I always run mine in low brightness mode now and never use the Brilliant color setting. I read that was supposed to make the machine run hotter. Have no supporting evidence for that and frankly cannot imagine how that could be true. Mine is so noisy anyway that I'm the only one who can stand it. Maybe if I get some "noise cancelling" headphones.

Were there ever any firmware updates made available for this PJ? I was one of the first to buy one, and had an update installed when it went in for a ps (and lamp) replacement, but not since. A bit of looking would indicate there are no available firmware updates, and I'm having a problem with a new denon 3310CI where it seems I can't get picture and audio at the same time over hdmi from a ps3. If I unplug the hdmi to the PJ, I get sound over hdmi, but when I plug it back in, the sound disappears. It comes back if I unplug the projector hdmi again. If I plug my computer monitor in via hdmi, I still get picture and sound. It may not be a problem with the projector or firmware, but I have nearly no way of being able to find the culprit.

I'm not really asking anyone to debug this problem for me, I just wanted to explain why I was asking. If I can't figure it out, I will probably post a question in the denon thread.

Thanks

Have you tried running the HDMI straight to the projector and digital audio to the receiver? Not sure if the PS3 does this.

Scott

ps3 via hdmi straight to projector always worked, but then I can't use hdmi for audio. ps3->receiver->projector via hdmi is ok if I use toslink for audio, but of course that is not lossless, which is part of the reason I bought the receiver.

edit: Well, it isn't lossless for 5.1 etc.

Just FYI to follow up on my old post, the new bulb fixed by lamp error. I'm not sure I understand completely why the bad bulb would light up briefly and why I wasn't warned that the end of bulb life was coming but, it's back up and running. I'm going to take it out of high altitude mode and see if I get more life out of the bulb that way.

Now why would this gentleman say taking it out of high altitude mode could make the lamp last longer. I would think it would be the opposite.

Bad lamps can still go on for 10 seconds or so I've seen it. Info I got was the projector wasn't seeing the power it needed to use the lamp. Probably a shift in the center piece in the bulb. If it shifts you lose the lamp. That electrode is in a very delicate state when it's all fired up. Watch out for bumping your projector around when it's on. I have a garage door very near the projector that slams (spring recoil) this shakes the wall and ceiling where the projector is mounted. I always watch it.

How long have you had the receiver?
I'm guessing on stuff so don't feel offended.
Did you go in and assign HDMI?

Scott

Thank you, I found and resolved my issue.

Sorry to be slightly off topic, I'm currently using a HD70 and thinking about revamping the video portion of my system. Looking into getting either a anamorphic lens or a entire new projector. I've had good luck with Optoma in the past, but cannot find a dealer that can allow me to demo any of their newer 1080 projectors in person. I wished I still lived in Northern California, as the Optoma HQ was in Milpitas and I been there a few times in the past when I was shopping for projectors and the reps there were a pleasure to deal with. Does any of the guys here know where I can get a demo of the newer Optoma 1080p units in person in Southern California? If anyone is willing to let me see their setup, I'll bring you some free beer for your time?

Hello all, I have an HD81 with the C08 firmware, it's been back to the manufacturer on 3 separate occasions, but has been pretty good for the past year or so. Unfortunately, within the past few weeks it's started flickering and showing some pretty severe color banding, especially noticeable in flesh tones. This happens with both component and several HDMI input sources. I've double-checked all the connections and they seem good. The reds are off, as well -- with a traditional color bars test pattern, the bar that should be red is closer to lavender. I've tried leaving the projector and scalar off for several minutes, as well as changing a lot of menu items and resetting to factory defaults. None of these helped. I'm going to try another bulb, but the brightness is pretty good so I doubt that's the problem.

Has anybody experienced problems similar to this? Any recommendations for things to try?

With the red being mixed with a lavender tint, I would guess it is an issue with the timing of your color wheel. Instead of the DLP mirrors turning on only when the red filter passes by, they are flashing somewhere in between the red and the blue filter. This would also explain your banding.

Read this this thread to find how to enter the service menu and then adjust the color wheel timing using a red test pattern from a disc such as Video Essentials. Adjust the color wheel timing until you see the most saturated red and see if that solves your problem.

Kevin,

Thanks for the reply -- that definitely sounds like it might be the issue. I'm not sure how to get into the service menu, though, and I couldn't find it in this thread -- do you think you could give me a pointer to the post or quick instructions?

Many thanks for the quick response,
--Austin

Try this key sequence on the remote:

Down Down Left Left Down Left

I don't recall the name of the parameter that adjusts color wheel speed, but it should be somewhat obvious. Something like "CW" or "Index."

Don't change any values without first writing down the original value. This will allow you to restore any screw up. Be careful, don't change things willy-nilly, and you are fully responsible for anything that happens.