Then please send them a letter... The more of us that do the more they will listen... :)

Of course of the newer units (VW100P) are not having the HDMI 1080p/24 feature work then we may be barking up the wrong tree for nothing... We need someone to buy one and confirm... :eek:

ADDRESS AGAIN: SONY ELECTRONICS
12451 Gateway Blvd.
Fort Meyers, Florida
33913

I don't think the HDMI input is sharper, but it has different default settings, which results in a different looking image. So simply swapping the cable from one to the other input will show differences that are related to settings and not to the input itself. A comparison between both inputs would be best done with a HDMI splitter or a Lumagen Radiance (don't have one yet, still using my old ProHDP), where each input is calibrated to the specific source (or the source to the input).

About the firmware & mods. Lots of things changed. How the panels are controlled, better on/off CR, better ANSI CR, Iris algorithms, no crush, no iris artifacts, signal processing and a few other things. I've started to take some measurements when Mark Peterson asked me if I could provide some numbers. That was back before WWDC in June and I never got around finishing those. I still plan to finish it, but I'm not sure when, as I have a ton of other stuff to work on and already have a few other potential projectors in the pipeline for tweaking. :(

I can tweak HDMI to look nearly identical to DVI but only using my crystalio II. I will admit I have not done 1080p/23.98 into my VP then 1080p/47.95 into the DVI on the Ruby for awhile. I will mess around with it this weekend and do some comparisons. Maybe my new Pioneer 95FD will get here... :)

I don't think the HDMI input is sharper, but it has different default settings, which results in a different looking image. So simply swapping the cable from one to the other input will show differences that are related to settings and not to the input itself. A comparison between both inputs would be best done with a HDMI splitter or a Lumagen Radiance (don't have one yet, still using my old ProHDP), where each input is calibrated to the specific source (or the source to the input).

About the firmware & mods. Lots of things changed. How the panels are controlled, better on/off CR, better ANSI CR, Iris algorithms, no crush, no iris artifacts, signal processing and a few other things. I've started to take some measurements when Mark Peterson asked me if I could provide some numbers. That was back before WWDC in June and I never got around finishing those. I still plan to finish it, but I'm not sure when, as I have a ton of other stuff to work on and already have a few other potential projectors in the pipeline for tweaking. :(

Stephan,

Thanks for the info. Please don't tell me that convergence is somewhere in the mix of tweaks under "how the panels are controlled".

Sounds cool. Is this going to be something you're going to be selling or offering up as a service in the future?

Andy

He should offer it. I would send mine in tomorrow... :)

That's very good news for the Ruby owners, maybe I should keep mine then :)

Stephan,

Thanks for the info. Please don't tell me that convergence is somewhere in the mix of tweaks under "how the panels are controlled".

Sounds cool. Is this going to be something you're going to be selling or offering up as a service in the future?


Andy,

convergence is not in there. But convergence can be adjusted physically in the pj. Of course it's a real pain, so I wouldn't recommend trying it (besides you lose warranty and there's a high risk of damaging things).

I'm not planning to offer this as a service or sell kits for doing it. A kit is pretty much impossible, as there are other things involved that are different from projector to projector. That would only leave the service, which is not feasible at all.
It would probably take 1 to 1 1/2 weeks to apply all changes to a single projector, so maybe 3 to 4 projectors per month. You do the math... there's no money to be made with it and it would leave no time to anything else. Prices would be so high, there would be no market.

Now, the big question is probably, why I did it in the first place... well, first of all, I'm nuts. :D
I've always been modding things, if there was something to gain. Back in the old CRT days, I enhanced the bandwidth of video circuits. The Qualia 004 was the first digital projector I could live with, after many years of 1080p with a 9" CRT.

I mainly work in (medical-) image processing (software and hardware), so besides doing this for myself I've used it in some projects where cost is almost no object (6 to 7 digit $ range).

I have done these mods, so others can as well. It takes a little knowledge of how these things work, so any EE with some time and interest in projectors should be able to do it. But the Ruby is a dated projector, the next generation just started shipping or will pretty soon, so I don't know how much time people are willing to put into it anymore.

And besides that, I think there will be alot of competition from the DLP camp.

I sent my Ruby in for service due to the lamp not firing up issue. It went in on Monday September 24th UPS 3 day air and I got back yesterday, the 4th of October. Amazing turnaround.
While it was at Sony I talked to Juan and he explained that they had installed the “hard start mod kit”, replaced the lamp and had replaced the optical block. The first two items I was expecting but the optical block was news. I was always about a half pixel off and suspect shipping knocked it further out. Long story short all three items were replaced no charge. It was sent back next day air at their expense.

I did ask about 24p capabilities and he really knew nothing of this. I didn’t expect much here. If there were a firmware or hardware upgrade path we would have heard about it.

Sony gets an A for their incredible service and timely turnaround. This is the best experience I’ve ever had in getting service for anything in consumer electronics. My theater was offline for 10 days, 5 of which were shipping and the weekend.

I contrast this with the F that I gave JVC for their service of my HD2K two years ago. They had the pj for two months and then sent it back not working right. I had to hound them for answers. I don’t know if things are the same today, I hope not. I was offline for nearly 3 months by the time this problem was fixed.

That's good news. Well, except the 1080p/24 part. :) How is the picture now? Better?

Sony gets an A for their incredible service and timely turnaround.

REMEMBER - I promised you that kind of experience :D

That's good news. Well, except the 1080p/24 part. :) How is the picture now? Better?

The picture is better than when I first got it. Brand new lamp and perfect convergance.

REMEMBER - I promised you that kind of experience :D

You spoke the truth!

I ran output from my Radiance XD via the DVI input this morning to compare DVI & HDMI. I haven't spent much time with it but remember why I have used HDMI almost exclusively. I get random picture noise on DVI. Does anyone experience this? It looks perfect and then there'll be a bit of static, maybe 4 or 5 pixel high and a foot wide. Kinda like antenna interference.

I ran output from my Radiance XD via the DVI input this morning to compare DVI & HDMI. I haven't spent much time with it but remember why I have used HDMI almost exclusively. I get random picture noise on DVI. Does anyone experience this? It looks perfect and then there'll be a bit of static, maybe 4 or 5 pixel high and a foot wide. Kinda like antenna interference.

I have NOT Experienced any DVI problems as you
describe.

However when I output 1080p/48 from either of
my Video Processors to the Ruby - the picture
is MUCH SOFTER - CRT LIKE. If you look at a detailed
scene - like in Phantom Of The Opera - Blu-Ray - the
chapter when the Phantom comes down the Opera
hall stairs - the Opera Hall has FANTASTIC Detail.

I compared that scene back to back with 1080p/60 HDMI
versus 1080p/48 DVI.

I can't watch the DVI. The detail gets all SOFT - aka NOT CRISP.

You should see the new VW60 at 1080p/23.98. It is super sharp! :eek:

You should see the new VW60 at 1080p/23.98. It is super sharp! :eek:

I'm sure it is http://www.rx8web.com/smilies/bouncy.gif

It has HDMI in and Convergence http://www.rx8web.com/smilies/bouncy.gif

More importantly the price! :eek:

I am working on modifying HDMI cables to help with the EDID issue that sometimes occurs. Hopefully I can crack this one... :DThe Gefen DVI Detective (http://www.gefen.com/kvm/product.jsp?prod_id=1378) solved my EDID issues thru HDMI after I programmed it on the DVI input and locked it.

By the way, the VW-200 has a 400W xenon bulb, same as Ruby but with a 2500 life expectancy... Joe, maybe you should return that bulb... I bet you could use the new improved VW-200 bulb... improved in terms of 2500 hours...

Guys, we need to figure out about the VW-200 bulb, it could be great for a Ruby bulb replacement... might work and last 2500 hours and age more gracefully..... Both are 400W xenons....???
My Ruby bulb is rated 2500 hours, and I have already reached 1800.
Where did you get a Ruby with an only 1000 hours bulb ?

The Ruby bulbs retailed at $1,000.00 and were rated for 1,000 hours, hence people bitched about the $1.00/hr bulb usage... If you havea 2,500 hour bulb, it must be a NEW design, same as the VW-200... Would be nice if that is true...

geeji, I just tried the DVI detective and it would not pass my HD DVD player signal. Am I doing something wrong. I tried a couple different DVI adaptors and cables. I know it is not HDCP compliant so maybe that is what is happening...

The Ruby bulbs retailed at $1,000.00 and were rated for 1,000 hours, hence people bitched about the $1.00/hr bulb usage... If you havea 2,500 hour bulb, it must be a NEW design, same as the VW-200... Would be nice if that is true...

My Ruby was bought in January 2006, one of the earliest available. The original bulb lasted for 2500 hours until the menu notice came up. It would have lasted longer if I hadn't decided to replace it. I don't understand what this 1000 hour myth is.

Thanks Alan,

This thread is going to be a great help :D

Is this really a different bulb or the same one with a more realistic spec for expected lifetime? Is the cost lower due to greater sales volume?

Is this really a different bulb or the same one with a more realistic spec for expected lifetime? Is the cost lower due to greater sales volume?
I also have a Feb 2006 ruby with 1400 hrs on the lamp...still looks great...Ive always thought it to be 2500 hrs life with some brightness loss after a couple of hundred hrs

charlie

geeji, I just tried the DVI detective and it would not pass my HD DVD player signal. Am I doing something wrong. I tried a couple different DVI adaptors and cables. I know it is not HDCP compliant so maybe that is what is happening...Joerod, I used DVI Detective successfully with an HTPC outputing NON-HDCP 1920x1080p.
If your HD DVD player output is 1080p and thus HDCP protected, it is unfortunately normal DVI detective cannot pass it. I apologize if my post, for lack of details, let you believe the opposite.
I believe Gefen is working on an update of DVI Detective which may also be "HDCP passthru" so you may want to check that with their friendly support and return your present version for exchange with the new one when it becomes available.
Just in case, also check that your DVI Detective is properly programmed and locked on your projector, and test the connection direct from HD-DVD->VideoProj with the DVI Detective Power Supply IN : contrary to what the manual says, even after locking, you may need the power supply in some cases; also if you have an AVR or switch in between, it may be the source of your problem.
I could not understand why I did not get a stable image either, just to discover my Yamaha RX-V2600, supposedly "HDMI 1.1" was actually incapable of passing thru 1080p video :mad:

My Ruby was bought in January 2006, one of the earliest available. The original bulb lasted for 2500 hours until the menu notice came up. It would have lasted longer if I hadn't decided to replace it. I don't understand what this 1000 hour myth is.My Ruby was bought in December 2005, and was rated for 2500 Hours.
AFAIK, all Rubys since day one were 2500 Hours rated.

I have NOT Experienced any DVI problems as you
describe.

However when I output 1080p/48 from either of
my Video Processors to the Ruby - the picture
is MUCH SOFTER - CRT LIKE. If you look at a detailed
scene - like in Phantom Of The Opera - Blu-Ray - the
chapter when the Phantom comes down the Opera
hall stairs - the Opera Hall has FANTASTIC Detail.

I compared that scene back to back with 1080p/60 HDMI
versus 1080p/48 DVI.

I can't watch the DVI. The detail gets all SOFT - aka NOT CRISP.

I have compared, 60 hz DVI-AUTO MODE with HDMI.It is exactly the same.

But....with my computer, ATI card 2600XT at 48 hz (only DVI possible), picture get so soft there is such a lack of contrast, that I don't understand....

Is this the Ruby's doing or is it the computer??????

Really pitty, I can't get the same depth and contrast, but in 48 hz, it is much smoother! BTW same thing in 50 Hz!

I have compared, 60 hz DVI-AUTO MODE with HDMI.It is exactly the same.

But....with my computer, ATI card 2600XT at 48 hz (only DVI possible), picture get so soft there is such a lack of contrast, that I don't understand....

Is this the Ruby's doing or is it the computer??????

Really pitty, I can't get the same depth and contrast, but in 48 hz, it is much smoother! BTW same thing in 50 Hz!

Same here, the image from the DVI port is too soft for my taste. IRCC it has to do with the signal processing within the Ruby; there is a difference between how it processes HDMI and DVI signals (one can see this e.g. by the different amount of setting options for those inputs).

In regards to lack of contrast, I could imagine that you are seeing the differences between Video and PC level (16-235 vs. 0-255). As opposed to the first issue this is something you should be able to calibrate.
____
Axel

Yes, there is a hudge difference, auto, better contrast!

But I think I was not clear enough. At 60 hz, there is NO difference btween the DVI, and HDMI port!

It is at 48 hz, it gets really soft!

Yes, there is a hudge difference, auto, better contrast!

But I think I was not clear enough. At 60 hz, there is NO difference btween the DVI, and HDMI port!

It is at 48 hz, it gets really soft!

Yep, that's what I am seeing too. See here. (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=843241)
____
Axel

Same here, the image from the DVI port is too soft for my taste.
____
Axel

That's what I have been saying. I'm glad you
see the softness. I can't look at it.

I have configured Powerstrip-coloursettings and you can compensate rather well with this!

That's what I have been saying. I'm glad you
see the softness. I can't look at it.

Me neither.
____
Axel

I have configured Powerstrip-coloursettings and you can compensate rather well with this!

Can please elaborate on this?

TIA!
____
Axel

Suggestions on good reliable places to buy replacement Ruby bulbs?

Anyone doing re-furbs on them yet?

FWIW, the bulb may be rated for 2500 hours (I don't know if it is or not), but my first Ruby bulb only lasted just over 1131 hours. The current one has ~900 hours on it and appears to be dimming signficantly.

See: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9449234#post9449234

FWIW, this page says "average bulb life: 1500 hours":

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/410696-REG/Sony_LMPH400_LMP_H400_Projector_Replacement_Lamp.html

Can please elaborate on this?

TIA!
____
Axel

Well a part from giving you the output frequency you want, Powerstrip can give you more opportunities to "tweak" your card. If you go right mouse click under properties, colour-settings, you can adjust brightness contrast, colour settings and even gamma!

I have another question though.....With Powerdvd, latest version with two dvi adapters, one on the ATI card, and the other on the Ruby, connected by a HDMI câble, my HDCP, will not be activated.

With the connection to the hDMI port on the Ruby, everything is fine, but then of course no 47.976 HZ!

Someone knows a way around this?

I sent my Ruby in for service due to the lamp not firing up issue. It went in on Monday September 24th UPS 3 day air and I got back yesterday, the 4th of October. Amazing turnaround.
While it was at Sony I talked to Juan and he explained that they had installed the “hard start mod kit”, replaced the lamp and had replaced the optical block. The first two items I was expecting but the optical block was news. I was always about a half pixel off and suspect shipping knocked it further out. Long story short all three items were replaced no charge. It was sent back next day air at their expense.

I did ask about 24p capabilities and he really knew nothing of this. I didn’t expect much here. If there were a firmware or hardware upgrade path we would have heard about it.

Sony gets an A for their incredible service and timely turnaround. This is the best experience I’ve ever had in getting service for anything in consumer electronics. My theater was offline for 10 days, 5 of which were shipping and the weekend.

I contrast this with the F that I gave JVC for their service of my HD2K two years ago. They had the pj for two months and then sent it back not working right. I had to hound them for answers. I don’t know if things are the same today, I hope not. I was offline for nearly 3 months by the time this problem was fixed.


I dropped mine off at Magnolia today (I bought an extended warantee). I'll report back on how it goes. They seemed to think their repair guys could fix it. I doubted them. We'll see.

I dropped mine off at Magnolia today (I bought an extended warantee). I'll report back on how it goes. They seemed to think their repair guys could fix it. I doubted them. We'll see.

My tech at Gramiphone, MD, assured me that Sony would not allow them to do any sort of major repair, that is, modules etc. Rather, they were required to send it in for things like convergence issues. I looked back at your earlier entries but do not see where you mention what you took it in for. I'd like to express my concern for your unit if your dealer's repair dept. tries something they aren't authorized to do, perhaps in the interest of expedience.

And what the heck, if Sony is replacing bulbs for free, then I say let them, and God bless em, each and every one of them, (and a special thanks to Juan who replaced my optical block, bulb and added the hard start mod) ;)

My tech at Gramiphone, MD, assured me that Sony would not allow them to do any sort of major repair, that is, modules etc. Rather, they were required to send it in for things like convergence issues. I looked back at your earlier entries but do not see where you mention what you took it in for. I'd like to express my concern for your unit if your dealer's repair dept. tries something they aren't authorized to do, perhaps in the interest of expedience.

And what the heck, if Sony is replacing bulbs for free, then I say let them, and God bless em, each and every one of them, (and a special thanks to Juan who replaced my optical block, bulb and added the hard start mod) ;)

See my post here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12663960#post12663960

(Got it back today and Magnolia HiFi replanced the power supply, lap igniter, AND the lamp).

Sorry if this has been posted. Any where to get a Ruby replacement bulb for for less than a new plasma or lcd tv?:eek:

Sorry if this has been posted. Any where to get a Ruby replacement bulb for for less than a new plasma or lcd tv?:eek:

You are not comparing apples to apples.

Even if I paid 100% LIST price for a new Ruby Bulb
it would be ORDERS of Magnitude cheaper than an
13ft. LCD or Plasma.

OH YA - they don't make LCDs or Plasmas that big :rolleyes:

AVS sells replacement bulbs that you can install in the bulb housing. The instructions for doing so are on another thread. This is a bit more difficult than simply replacing the Sony bulb and housing unit.

Hmm can I stack Ruby's to get a better punch from my setup. I think my sceen size of 120" is pushing it's ability for brightness.

Hmm can I stack Ruby's to get a better punch from my setup. I think my sceen size of 120" is pushing it's ability for brightness.

Sure you can stack them - but there are other draw
backs to that, like a much less sharp picture from
overlaying the two images.

I have a 152" screen and I have plenty of brightness.

How is that?

I bought a screen with a GAIN of 2.

Hmm can I stack Ruby's to get a better punch from my setup. I think my sceen size of 120" is pushing it's ability for brightness.

You could try Allan's 'light cannon' tweak, if you have not already. If interested, just do a search here for details.
____
Axel

You could try Allan's 'light cannon' tweak, if you have not already. If interested, just do a search here for details.
____
Axel

I think it is next to impossible to find because it is in some archive

I think it is next to impossible to find because it is in some archive
I fear you are right. I had bookmarked it (here (http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=655111)) and also just did a quick search (here (http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=655111&highlight=ruby)). However, I am getting database errors. Hopefully this is only a temporary issue, because I did not save this info off-line either and will likely need it myself in the not too distant future...
____
Axel

I think things must be moving around in the archive because I had it booked marked as well and now its gone. Here is Rics original Ruby Calibration thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=633010&highlight=ruby+service+code

Luckily I did make a copy of my post on the iris tweak from the archive last time I found it and here it is:

The following is a DIY, when ever in the service menu proceed at your own risk as you may cause damage to your projector !

Alan Gouger
re in the good ole USA
Posts: 14,718

A simple adjustment will turn your Ruby into a light canon.
Anyone complaining about the Ruby not having enough light your going to like this simple adjustment in the service menu.


Out of the box "Iris off" is brighter then "Iris Auto"...were going to change that.

Do not worry about the change we are about to make in the service menu. When you power down the projector and power it back on for the next viewing it will default back to factory settings unless while your in the service menu you choose to save to memory after your done making your changes so this is a harmless experiment

Do not choose "save to memory"

Make sure your projector is set to "Iris Auto"
This tweak will only effect the " Iris Auto" mode.

Go into service mode: On the remote hit enter, enter, left, enter, up.

Now pull up the menu and go to the very bottom selection and right courser.
Now go to "Other"
Now go to number 44. For safety right down the default setting. Were only going to change number 44. Do not change anything else. After you have written down the factor setting change it to 100.
Now back out of the menu without doing a save.

You should now have one hell of a bright picture. Blacks are still excellent.
Now toggle between Iris off and Auto Iris and you will not believe how dim Iris off is yet that use to be the bright mode. You will have a hard time going back to the default setting.

Give it a try. Let me know what you think.

__________________

I fear you are right. I had bookmarked it (here (http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=655111)) and also just did a quick search (here (http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=655111&highlight=ruby)). However, I am getting database errors. Hopefully this is only a temporary issue, because I did not save this info off-line either and will likely need it myself in the not too distant future...
____
Axel

The last time I needed it - I had to ASK Alan for it and he
retrieved it from the achieve - I saved a COPY on my Computer.

If anyone needs it - PM me

Oooooooops too late - Alan beat me to the punch ABOVE

I do not know why it is missing in the archives. I think when David adds more data to the archive things must shift to make room fo the new. I will ask.

I do not know why it is missing in the archives. I think when David adds more data to the archive things must shift to make room fo the new. I will ask.

Alan,

Is the light canon tweak better than using a HiPower with the Ruby?

Just wondering, though its too late since I just ordered a HiPower from AVS.

Andy

Alan,

Is the light canon tweak better than using a HiPower with the Ruby?

Just wondering, though its too late since I just ordered a HiPower from AVS.

Andy

Your good to go. You will get far more gain from the HP. The HP is like a miracle screen:)

Your good to go. You will get far more gain from the HP. The HP is like a miracle screen:)

Thanks Alan.

hmmm look what I sparked... : ) I'm aware of the light cannon trick, I receantly turned it back down to get deeper blacks. I just miss the punch of the daylight scenes, maybe my bulbs going, I think I have 900 plus hours. I'll get the dyi bulb soon enough. Thanks for the input, hope the archives are working now. As far as the HiPower I'm not keen on the limited viewing area, center of the couch is bright, sitting at the end of the couch is dim.. not for me. My vutec is fine, I don't see the sparklies unless I focus my eyes off the image. Kind of like the trick pictures you got to get your eyes at a funny focus to see the image. I just watch the movie and the sparklies turn invisable.

I brought up the "lens focus" test screen on my new(used) Ruby and I can see red and green on either side of most (not all) of the verticle lines of the crosses. Sounds like a convergence issue maybe not, but just wanted to check. Maybe this test pattern isn't accurate from the start? If it is a problem, is there a fix?? Thanks

I brought up the "lens focus" test screen on my new(used) Ruby and I can see red and green on either side of most (not all) of the verticle lines of the crosses. Sounds like a convergence issue maybe not, but just wanted to check. Maybe this test pattern isn't accurate from the start? If it is a problem, is there a fix?? Thanks

Sounds like the kind of misconvergence I have on the demo VW100 I picked up a few months ago (although mine was only the red, and only to the left). Mine was quite consistent across the whole field, so for the time being I'm able to effectively compensate with the chroma delay adjustment on my Lumagen processor. If you have a similar adjustment available in your video chain you might be able to realize some improvement. Otherwise it sounds like it might be a candidate for a trip to Sony repair for a convergence check.

I brought up the "lens focus" test screen on my new(used) Ruby and I can see red and green on either side of most (not all) of the verticle lines of the crosses. Sounds like a convergence issue maybe not, but just wanted to check. Maybe this test pattern isn't accurate from the start? If it is a problem, is there a fix?? Thanks
Yep, this is a convergence issue and unfortunately rather normal for a Ruby. There is nothing an end user can do other than sending it in to Sony. If it is outside the spec (from what I understand that’s several pixels off) they would repair/adjust it. Depending how old the unit is, this work would be either covered under warranty or not. To make things worse, chances are that those nicely aligned panels may lose some of their convergence again from a potentially rough handling on their way back.

The panels in my Ruby are off by about a pixel or so on the right side. While that’s noticeable on the test pattern, I cannot see it during a movie.
_____
Axel

Convergence is not Adjustable.

The Ruby comes with a CD to adjust Gamma from your laptop
via the Ethernet connection to the Ruby!
Has anyone manage to connect to his Ruby via Ethernet ?
Mine does not want to get an IP in DHCP, and does not work if I set it up manually...
Any other way to use Image Director ?

Thx ! ;)

PS: I have a Netgear DG834GT

Has anyone manage to connect to his Ruby via Ethernet ?
Mine does not want to get an IP in DHCP, and does not work if I set it up manually...
Any other way to use Image Director ?

Thx ! ;)

PS: I have a Netgear DG834GT

Mine works fine - I configured my Ruby with a FIXED
IP address - 2 Years ago. I can access it any time it
is powered on. It has been so long ago - I don't remember
the procedure I used. I do remember there is some MASTER
password. I probably had to hook my laptop to the Ruby
to configure it via RS-232.

AGAIN - it has been more than 2 years - so I don't remember.

Thx, I finally connected via RS-232, worked like a charm, and I now have a 2.2 gamma curve :)

Thx, I finally connected via RS-232, worked like a charm, and I now have a 2.2 gamma curve :)

There you go - HAPPY I could assist.

Anyone hear or heard of a start-up chirping noise that sounds sort of like a fan but doesn't act like a fan noise? Of course this won't be easy to describe but here goes: I hit the on button and projector starts to power up, noiselessly, until the bulb kicks on with a soft snap at which time the chirping starts. It begins rather pronounced then fades. Sometimes the chirping goes completely away, at other times it quiets to an intermittent chirp. In all cases, after a few minutes it begins to pick up in intensity until it's distracting and won't go away until the pj is turned off.

I used to be able to turn the pj off, wait about 10-12 seconds, turn it back on and the chirping would go away for quite awhile. It doesn't go away anymore and seems to be affected by turning the pj on and off multiple times.

The hard start modification was installed by Sony quite a while ago, (April 2007 I think), and the current bulb has about 700 hours on it.

Any thoughts anybody? I am about to take it down, remove and reinstall the bulb, WITHOUT releasing the xenon gas. I know this will probably reset the bulb hour counter but so what....I need this noise to go away.

Anyone hear or heard of a start-up chirping noise that sounds sort of like a fan but doesn't act like a fan noise? Of course this won't be easy to describe but here goes: I hit the on button and projector starts to power up, noiselessly, until the bulb kicks on with a soft snap at which time the chirping starts. It begins rather pronounced then fades. Sometimes the chirping goes completely away, at other times it quiets to an intermittent chirp. In all cases, after a few minutes it begins to pick up in intensity until it's distracting and won't go away until the pj is turned off.

I used to be able to turn the pj off, wait about 10-12 seconds, turn it back on and the chirping would go away for quite awhile. It doesn't go away anymore and seems to be affected by turning the pj on and off multiple times.

The hard start modification was installed by Sony quite a while ago, (April 2007 I think), and the current bulb has about 700 hours on it.

Any thoughts anybody? I am about to take it down, remove and reinstall the bulb, WITHOUT releasing the xenon gas. I know this will probably reset the bulb hour counter but so what....I need this noise to go away.

Do a search for cricket noise. Only fix I know of is to replace the lamp. I had to do it too.
____
Axel

go figure....'cricket noise'. Lord knows I searched on everything else. Thank You!

just curious, do you know what causes the noise?

See this link: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10088970#post10088970.
I had the same issue. A new bulb fixed the noise for a while. It came back after a couple hundred hours, now have close to two thousand hours on second bulb and I live with crickets

Thanks Stu,

I've been out of the loop, (home remodeling, but guess which room came first) for a while and Really appreciate the heads-up. Found everything I needed in the thread you sent and am now ready to replace just the module.

mark

I think things must be moving around in the archive because I had it booked marked as well and now its gone. Here is Rics original Ruby Calibration thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=633010&highlight=ruby+service+code

Luckily I did make a copy of my post on the iris tweak from the archive last time I found it and here it is:

The following is a DIY, when ever in the service menu proceed at your own risk as you may cause damage to your projector !

Alan Gouger
re in the good ole USA
Posts: 14,718

A simple adjustment will turn your Ruby into a light canon.
Anyone complaining about the Ruby not having enough light your going to like this simple adjustment in the service menu.


Out of the box "Iris off" is brighter then "Iris Auto"...were going to change that.

Do not worry about the change we are about to make in the service menu. When you power down the projector and power it back on for the next viewing it will default back to factory settings unless while your in the service menu you choose to save to memory after your done making your changes so this is a harmless experiment

Do not choose "save to memory"

Make sure your projector is set to "Iris Auto"
This tweak will only effect the " Iris Auto" mode.

Go into service mode: On the remote hit enter, enter, left, enter, up.

Now pull up the menu and go to the very bottom selection and right courser.
Now go to "Other"
Now go to number 44. For safety right down the default setting. Were only going to change number 44. Do not change anything else. After you have written down the factor setting change it to 100.
Now back out of the menu without doing a save.

You should now have one hell of a bright picture. Blacks are still excellent.
Now toggle between Iris off and Auto Iris and you will not believe how dim Iris off is yet that use to be the bright mode. You will have a hard time going back to the default setting.

Give it a try. Let me know what you think.

__________________

I have lost the normal settings of my Ruby (and the new one's too) after it went to Sony Prime. Could somebody tell me what the normal 43 and 44 values are, out of the box?

I have lost the normal settings of my Ruby (and the new one's too) after it went to Sony Prime. Could somebody tell me what the normal 43 and 44 values are, out of the box?

Hi, my Ruby's stock values are: 43 = 271, 44 = 544.

Try also these instead: 43 = 250, 44 = 440. Those work best for me! Don't try that light cannon setting of 44 = 100. It washes out most of the whites and makes the iris to function only in a really dark scene.

Compare the "Auto iris" and "Iris off" settings and adjust #44 until you get equal brightness on both. That's it!

I must say, that I think the lamp is not in very good condition. The unit went to Sony for the "cricket sound". They did a lamp reset, but I think I must be around 1500 hours.

The unit they borrowed me, 300 lamp hours, was much brighter and the 44 setting could be much higher. I also have the impression that not all the settings of all units are the same....

I want to replace the lamp, have bought a new one on ebay, but I am so afraid to do something wron, and ruin my ruby...

Thanks for your feedback

I must say, that I think the lamp is not in very good condition. The unit went to Sony for the "cricket sound". They did a lamp reset, but I think I must be around 1500 hours.

The unit they borrowed me, 300 lamp hours, was much brighter and the 44 setting could be much higher. I also have the impression that not all the settings of all units are the same....

I want to replace the lamp, have bought a new one on ebay, but I am so afraid to do something wron, and ruin my ruby...

Thanks for your feedback

The Ruby Xenon lamps vary in brightness. I've tried 3 of them and all were different. The original was the dimmest. There's no harm trying a lamp replacement (even if you change only the bulb), except for your wallet :-)

Indieke, the settings you're talking about are different on each and every Ruby, so getting the values of other Rubys won't help you.
If you feel that you need to replace the lamp, do so... it's very easy, you can't do it wrong !

Bonjour BangoO.

Well I found the original settings of the projector and picture became unwatchable with these. I am not a handyman, so changing the lamp will probably mean the end of my ruby!

Even then, it has to be calibrated. That is the inconvenience of living in a remoted village in Provence. People don't even know what a Ruby is, and no shop ever touch it! I can maybe find someone remoted, but then I will have to apy so much for calibration, I can almost buy a small projector, LOL.

Now one friend I know, is willing to help, and is confident. Was, when he ruined my computer, who he disasembled for a broken videocard.....:p

Would you guys buy a Ruby for 1k with 1350 hours on the original lamp that's calibrated?

Yes.

thanks Dan.... I thought it would be, I just wanted to get you guys cut. I'm going to over time look at a jvc or sony higher end model, but wanted to see if it would be a big change over my sanyo z5 on a 8' wide scope before I made the move.

Would you guys buy a Ruby for 1k with 1350 hours on the original lamp that's calibrated?

Where is it - I want it ;)

enough said...I should have it in a couple of days. I hope it will work with my prismasonic V1000 anamorphic lens and VP 30 scaler on a 8' wide scope screen. From what I've read the throw for my screen 14' 2". I'm at about 18' away with my Z5.

enough said...I should have it in a couple of days. I hope it will work with my prismasonic V1000 anamorphic lens and VP 30 scaler on a 8' wide scope screen. From what I've read the throw for my screen 14' 2". I'm at about 18' away with my Z5.

NO NO NO - it won't work with any of that stuff - Not for $100.;)

well how will I get CIW with out my scaler and Lens on my scope screen? The way I have my Z5 setup right now I don't have to touch my lens or scaler for any content.

enough said...I should have it in a couple of days. I hope it will work with my prismasonic V1000 anamorphic lens and VP 30 scaler on a 8' wide scope screen. From what I've read the throw for my screen 14' 2". I'm at about 18' away with my Z5.

I upgraded from Z5 to Ruby too and if you really get the Ruby that cheap there is no doubt that you will get a far superior PJ compared to Z5. Though it is already older technology today it was the Sony flag ship projector 2005-2007!

Is 12' away from a 8' wide scope screen with a prismasonic V1000 lens to close or what's the best distance for my screen? Projector central says 14' 2". My manual says
12' 2". My current projector is about 18' away. I would like to get mounting setup before Monday when the projector arrives.

does anyone have a copy of the Image director 2 software they can send me?

Does anyone have any good ideas about dealing with Horizontal keystone adjustments for Ruby?
TIA
Joe

Does anyone have any good ideas about dealing with Horizontal keystone adjustments for Ruby?
TIA
Joe

If the Built-In Keystone is NOT enough for you - I recommend
you CHANGE the PJ Mounting. Any electronic Keystone on any
PJ is a distortion of the image and DOES negatively effect PQ.

If the Built-In Keystone is NOT enough for you - I recommend
you CHANGE the PJ Mounting. Any electronic Keystone on any
PJ is a distortion of the image and DOES negatively effect PQ.

Unfortunately the Sony VPL-VW100 only does Vertical Keystone adjustments.

Unfortunately the Sony VPL-VW100 only does Vertical Keystone adjustments.

ONLY CRT PJs did Horizontal keystone.

If you have that problem - something is WRONG.

Well been having the Ruby clicking on startup for some time, then it won't start at all. Put back in the old bulb and still no luck, just clicking and no bulb ignite, I'm guessing I need the hard start mod at this point? Or is there a simpler remedy that's been discovered in the last year I've been gone??
Might as well just get a new projector I suppose.

I still have my Ruby. Although I like stille some things, like good colour, not electronic picture, the automatic Iris is bothering more and more.

On a movie like tw lasts Batman. i dont know how to set my projector. Without AI, the picture is better because some shadows details are not crushed. When I have a good picture in dark scenes it is bad again in gright.

Was thinking of selling it and get a new generation Sont, like the 85 (but then I have a AI again), or the new Jvc.

But will that be a ste^forward, or must I find a way to tweak better my sony?

I still have my Ruby. Although I like stille some things, like good colour, not electronic picture, the automatic Iris is bothering more and more.

On a movie like tw lasts Batman. i dont know how to set my projector. Without AI, the picture is better because some shadows details are not crushed. When I have a good picture in dark scenes it is bad again in gright.

Was thinking of selling it and get a new generation Sont, like the 85 (but then I have a AI again), or the new Jvc.

But will that be a ste^forward, or must I find a way to tweak better my sony?

I replaced my Ruby with a second hand (280h) JVC HD100 / RS2. It is soooo much better than the Ruby and the lack of the DI is a joy to my eyes :-) I was always tweaking the Ruby but this calibrated JVC needs no adjusting, just enjoying.

Well been having the Ruby clicking on startup for some time, then it won't start at all. Put back in the old bulb and still no luck, just clicking and no bulb ignite, I'm guessing I need the hard start mod at this point? Or is there a simpler remedy that's been discovered in the last year I've been gone??
Might as well just get a new projector I suppose.
My Ruby( lamp 1900hs) had same problems, but I resolved it incidentally and easily. Initially, I removed the light module of Ruby to see whether I can replace lamp by myself or not. I found that a whitish heat paste between lamp body and positive/negative power lead. I clean up about 80% of heat paste and make sure that I can replace the lamp by myself. After reassembling the light module, Ruby clicking on startup for some time problems resolved spontaneously. Furthermore, the picture look brighter and sharper. I bet you woun't sell it once you see it !!

My Ruby( lamp 1900hs) had same problems, but I resolved it incidentally and easily. Initially, I removed the light module of Ruby to see whether I can replace lamp by myself or not. I found that a whitish heat paste between lamp body and positive/negative power lead. I clean up about 80% of heat paste and make sure that I can replace the lamp by myself. After reassembling the light module, Ruby clicking on startup for some time problems resolved spontaneously. Furthermore, the picture look brighter and sharper. I bet you woun't sell it once you see it !!

Yah I have seen that paste. I'll try cleaning some of it up and seeing if that works, hope it doesn't over heat! Can't imagine it gets brighter, unless you put in a new bulb. Thanks for the tip, I'll try it tonight.

I replaced my Ruby with a second hand (280h) JVC HD100 / RS2. It is soooo much better than the Ruby and the lack of the DI is a joy to my eyes :-) I was always tweaking the Ruby but this calibrated JVC needs no adjusting, just enjoying.

Yah I don't like the di so I leave it off, I've been so happy with my ruby, other than the bulb now not firing.. But since the rs2 does 30-1 native is very important to me. Hate DI. Thanks for the post.

Yah I don't like the di so I leave it off, I've been so happy with my ruby, other than the bulb now not firing.. But since the rs2 does 30-1 native is very important to me. Hate DI. Thanks for the post.

That JVC native contrast of 30000:1 makes a huge difference to the Ruby and the black level is awesome too. The JVC picture is also sharper, brighter and punchier. Dear Ruby has grown old, I'm afraid...

That JVC native contrast of 30000:1 makes a huge difference to the Ruby and the black level is awesome too. The JVC picture is also sharper, brighter and punchier. Dear Ruby has grown old, I'm afraid...

I just recently saw that JVC model on display in chatsworth, and I have to say that low lumen (600) really turned me off to this unit. Yes the blacks were deeper but it was so damn dim I actually hated watching it. My Ruby is MUCH brighter, I recall it listed around 900lumens, and it shows. I had hi hopes. I'll go back and see if maybe there was to many hours on the bulb, that could of been it. But I messed with the remote and could not get it any brighter. What was a kicker was that it was only running on a 95 inch screen. I'm running on a 120" with a MUCH brighter image, I'll look into it when I'm back there.

My Ruby( lamp 1900hs) had same problems, but I resolved it incidentally and easily. Initially, I removed the light module of Ruby to see whether I can replace lamp by myself or not. I found that a whitish heat paste between lamp body and positive/negative power lead. I clean up about 80% of heat paste and make sure that I can replace the lamp by myself. After reassembling the light module, Ruby clicking on startup for some time problems resolved spontaneously. Furthermore, the picture look brighter and sharper. I bet you woun't sell it once you see it !!


Thank you so much, it actually worked! I'm back up and running. :) I owe you a beer!

I just recently saw that JVC model on display in chatsworth, and I have to say that low lumen (600) really turned me off to this unit. Yes the blacks were deeper but it was so damn dim I actually hated watching it. My Ruby is MUCH brighter, I recall it listed around 900lumens, and it shows. I had hi hopes. I'll go back and see if maybe there was to many hours on the bulb, that could of been it. But I messed with the remote and could not get it any brighter. What was a kicker was that it was only running on a 95 inch screen. I'm running on a 120" with a MUCH brighter image, I'll look into it when I'm back there.

Strange, my Ruby with a fresh lamp was much dimmer than the JVC HD100/RS2... I have a dark walled dedicated HT room and a 1.0 gain 92" white screen. The measured ansi lumens count, not the specifications of the manufacturer (JVC 600, Sony 800). I believe that The Ruby is lower in real measured ansi lumens than the HD100/RS2.

The Ruby is still a great PJ and I still have her at my other setup.

Hi,

I recently installed a lamp, (bulb only), and was delighted with the results. I had previously suffered from the PJ not starting up and the Hard Restart kit was $3000 dollars in Greece. So for $300 I was all set. I used about 400 hours of lamp life and the PJ was still very bright, but returning from a two week holiday I found that it displays as if luminance is 0-10%. I have a black block top left that extends to the middle and is 10% of the height. I imagine it is a warning that I can't read even with contrast and brightness 100%. I have used two different HDMI sources with the same result. I have not reset the lamp hours and just thought I would throw this question in and would be very grateful for any tips. The PJ sees my lamp hours as 2150.

Thanks for any help,

Harold

Hi,

I recently installed a lamp, (bulb only), and was delighted with the results. I had previously suffered from the PJ not starting up and the Hard Restart kit was $3000 dollars in Greece. So for $300 I was all set. I used about 400 hours of lamp life and the PJ was still very bright, but returning from a two week holiday I found that it displays as if luminance is 0-10%. I have a black block top left that extends to the middle and is 10% of the height. I imagine it is a warning that I can't read even with contrast and brightness 100%. I have used two different HDMI sources with the same result. I have not reset the lamp hours and just thought I would throw this question in and would be very grateful for any tips. The PJ sees my lamp hours as 2150.

Thanks for any help,

Harold

If you have NOT RESET the Lamp Hours - the PJ is probably
Dimming the LAMP so it does not EXPLODE. The Lamp reset
instructions are in the Owner's Manual.

Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately I have now set the lamp to 0 hours and still have extremely crushed luminance.

Although I can't believe it I think its a lamp problem. The lamp had less than 350 hours on it and was very bright three weeks ago. I came back from holiday and it has almost zero luminance. I tried DVI and various HDMI sources. All sources have a bright half scan-line top left, which I never had before. SKY HD and my AVCHD camera have a black block top left, as if there is a warning banner I can't see. Those two sources are 1080i. Blu-ray, PS3 and my laptop (DVI) give 1080P and no black bar but still crushed luminance.

I will take the lamp out again and reseat the bulb with fresh silver paste. I thought I might have put too much on when I replaced the Lamp a couple of months ago, but it worked perfectly until now.

Thanks for any insights.

Harold



Quote:
Originally Posted by whiskersland
Hi,

I recently installed a lamp, (bulb only), and was delighted with the results. I had previously suffered from the PJ not starting up and the Hard Restart kit was $3000 dollars in Greece. So for $300 I was all set. I used about 400 hours of lamp life and the PJ was still very bright, but returning from a two week holiday I found that it displays as if luminance is 0-10%. I have a black block top left that extends to the middle and is 10% of the height. I imagine it is a warning that I can't read even with contrast and brightness 100%. I have used two different HDMI sources with the same result. I have not reset the lamp hours and just thought I would throw this question in and would be very grateful for any tips. The PJ sees my lamp hours as 2150.

Thanks for any help,

Harold
If you have NOT RESET the Lamp Hours - the PJ is probably
Dimming the LAMP so it does not EXPLODE. The Lamp reset
instructions are in the Owner's Manual.

All sources have a bright half scan-line top left, which I never had before.

Harold

None of your problems sound like a LAMP problem. The LAMP is
just a LIGHT source - it can not control any scan lines.

I hate to say this but the PJ may have a more serious failure.

WITH NO SOURCES AT ALL - What does the Screen Look Like.

Hi,

Thanks for your thoughts. A hardware/software failure of the PJ would be more worrying for me as I am not 100% about Sony Service in Greece. For it to be the lamp would be surprising as the PJ went from the brightest I remember to a strange low light situation while I was away for 2 weeks.

With no inputs connected at all the PJ still shows the same heavily crushed luminance. I can barely read the on screen menus. I still see a half scan line at the top left. I believe this scan line is at normal luminance, but it is so thin I can't be sure. It may be my imagination but when I switch on the Ruby and change inputs I see more strange blocky random types of shash than I saw before. in fact I don't remember it ever throwing images like that at me. Although I only see them for a few frames or fractions of a second I feel they are full luminance too. It is perhaps only when the PJ settles down that it goes low luminance. Maybe it still feels it is in an emergency low lamp state? I left it disconnected for 12 hours but no joy there. Before experimenting with the bulb maybe I can find a complete reset function? So far I can't. I will try to check it out through a laptop but from the manual it doesn't look compatible with Macs.


None of your problems sound like a LAMP problem. The LAMP is
just a LIGHT source - it can not control any scan lines.

I hate to say this but the PJ may have a more serious failure.

WITH NO SOURCES AT ALL - What does the Screen Look Like.

With no inputs connected at all the PJ still shows the same heavily crushed luminance. I can barely read the on screen menus. I still see a half scan line at the top left. I believe this scan line is at normal luminance, but it is so thin I can't be sure. It may be my imagination but when I switch on the Ruby and change inputs I see more strange blocky random types of shash than I saw before. in fact I don't remember it ever throwing images like that at me. Although I only see them for a few frames or fractions of a second I feel they are full luminance too. It is perhaps only when the PJ settles down that it goes low luminance. Maybe it still feels it is in an emergency low lamp state? I left it disconnected for 12 hours but no joy there. Before experimenting with the bulb maybe I can find a complete reset function? So far I can't. I will try to check it out through a laptop but from the manual it doesn't look compatible with Macs.

As you know with NO INPUTS - you should at least have a BLUE Screen
and be Able to READ the MENU. It is sounding more and more like an
internal PJ problem. Maybe you had some electrical problem while
you were away. MINE is ISOLATED from AC unless I power it up via a
fancy and complex control system.

There should be a FACTORY RESET function somewhere.

As for MACs - do you at least have a MAC that can run WINDOWS?
The Sony only wants to talk to a PC - surprise surprise :mad:

I'm a MAC person but I also have PCs for times like this although
my MAC is Intel based and runs Windows as well.

I have not tried this in a long long long time - I have Ethernet
run to my PJ and it has a FIXED IP address - so I can access the
PJ over the network. I know I have done that from a PC and worked
just fine - the PJ has a web browser in it if you know the IP address.
I don't remember ever trying from my MAC - I will try that TONIGHT
and let you know what I find out - but that will be at least 5-6 hours
from now.

Hi,

Thanks for your thoughts. .

Hi whiskersland

I extracted the VW100 network access info from the SERVICE Manual.
I have attached it BELOW - I had to split it into two files because AVS
has a File Limit of 500kb per file.

I hope this helps - The MAC can access the PJ over the Network through
Safari. If you think you NEED the WHOLE Service Manual - PM me and
I can make it available - IT IS 24MB in size so I can not e-mail it.

There should be a FACTORY RESET function somewhere.

I'd like to find out where that is. I'm selling my Ruby soon and would like to reset it before that.

Hi DrHankz,

I left the PJ in standby while away, but it should have been protected from any power surges by the UPS for my HT room, which seems in good working order.

Thank you very much for the good info. My Macs are Intel but I don't run any Windows OS on them, (yet!). When I get home today I will straight away try to connect with your instructions, (through Safari) and see if I can find anything helpful, like a system reset or Diagnostics. Thanks for the service manual.

Something else. Just before I turned it on, (I had returned from holiday and not used it yet), I reconnected its HDMI source to an HDMI splitter. I had added a small HDMI LCD to the room and hoped to be able to duplicate the main output for convenience. So the first time i switched it on it was getting its HDMI source through this (cheap) splitter. The splitter later proved to work but not with 2 outputs at the same time. I wonder if the Ruby received a rogue signal that flipped it into this mode. The LCD TV did not seem to like the split signal either and turned its HDMI input off, but by then I had noticed the Ruby was not working normally. Coincidence? To get the TV to work I replugged the LCD HDMI directly into my amp and the LCD found its HDMI signal again. Of course I tried the same with my PJ but to no avail. Testing later I found both outputs from the splitter work but not at the same time. That maybe the limitation of the device although the vender did not make it clear.

.Hi whiskersland

I extracted the VW100 network access info from the SERVICE Manual.
I have attached it BELOW - I had to split it into two files because AVS
has a File Limit of 500kb per file.

I hope this helps - The MAC can access the PJ over the Network through
Safari. If you think you NEED the WHOLE Service Manual - PM me and
I can make it available - IT IS 24MB in size so I can not e-mail it.

I reconnected its HDMI source to an HDMI splitter.


NO SPLITTER NO SPLITTER NO SPLITTER

That is BAD NEWS. Never do that.

I don't know if that is what screwed up your PJ and
taking it out now probably will not fix it.

I'd like to find out where that is. I'm selling my Ruby soon and would like to reset it before that.

FROM THE SERVICE MANUAL

2-1-2. Factory Mode Setting
1. Press the “Setup” key on the MENU. The “Setup” menu is displayed.
2. Set the “Status” item to “On”.
3. Exit the menu.
4. Press the keys in the following order: “ENTER”→“ENTER”→“LEFT”→“ENTER”
5. The message “Do you wish to enter into the FACTORY MODE? Yes:↑ No:↓” will be displayed.
6. Select “Yes:↑”.
NOTE:
When leaving the FACTORY MODE, perform item 3.
“Do you wish to return to the USER MODE? Yes:↑ No:↓”
will be displayed. Select “Yes:↑”.

FROM THE SERVICE MANUAL

2-1-2. Factory Mode Setting
1. Press the “Setup” key on the MENU. The “Setup” menu is displayed.
2. Set the “Status” item to “On”.
3. Exit the menu.
4. Press the keys in the following order: “ENTER”→“ENTER”→“LEFT”→“ENTER”
5. The message “Do you wish to enter into the FACTORY MODE? Yes:↑ No:↓” will be displayed.
6. Select “Yes:↑”.
NOTE:
When leaving the FACTORY MODE, perform item 3.
“Do you wish to return to the USER MODE? Yes:↑ No:↓”
will be displayed. Select “Yes:↑”.

Thanks but I didn't mean that, as a matter of fact I already knew that... I meant is there a total factory reset for Ruby? A reset for all the factory mode adjustments I've made? I've tweaked the color balance and iris.

Thanks but I didn't mean that, as a matter of fact I already knew that... I meant is there a total factory reset for Ruby? A reset for all the factory mode adjustments I've made? I've tweaked the color balance and iris.

That is the ONLY RESET in the Service Manual [NOT the OWNER's Manual]

Thanks but I didn't mean that, as a matter of fact I already knew that... I meant is there a total factory reset for Ruby? A reset for all the factory mode adjustments I've made? I've tweaked the color balance and iris.

The ONLY other Info is how to adjust the IRIS back to Factory Settings


1-6-3. IRIS Adjustment
1. Enter the Factory Mode.
2. Set OTHER: 42 Iris Adj in the Device Menu to 1.
3. Change the value of OTHER: 43 Iris/Open_Reg.
4. Change the value of OTHER: 50 Iris/On_Reg.
5. Change the value of OTERR: 44 Iris/Close_Reg.
6. Return OTHER: 42 Iris Adj to 0.
7. Perform Save to Memory.

VPL-VW100 service/protocol manual real free download !!
http://www.givemefile.net/smanuals/projectors_home_entertainment/sony/file/30443.html

VPL-VW100 service/protocol manual real free download !!
http://www.givemefile.net/smanuals/projectors_home_entertainment/sony/file/30443.html

WOW!! Thanks!!