Thanks Gonzo and Steve.

Gonzo - I ended up getting Berkline 088's. I am trying to finish the wine cellar this weekend if I can get to it...been pretty busy with other things lately.

Steve - I still need to get a person with better photo taking skills than me to take *real* pictures of the room with a *really good* camera. Here are a couple of shots from the front of the room.

I was going to post them last night but got too busy with the new Nascar '08 on the PS3 and breaking in the new seats!! :D :D

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC193.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC194.jpg

Seats/room look great. Its funny, my wife and I were talking about our project, and out of the blue she told me she'd been looking around on the web at HT seating, and out of nowhere she was suddenly in favor of recliners where before she had been pretty clear about prefering couches. A pleasant surprise. We were online looking at the 88's and figuring out what configuration would fit.

Quick question. How do the chairs arrive? Is there some assembly required? My concern is my door is only 30" wide, and I am wondering if I'll be able to get them in the room.

Dave - the chairs arrive in huge boxes. There is a very easy assembly of the back of the chair attaching to the base of the chair. You would be able to get them into the room with a 30" wide opening. When the wife and I looked at the 088 we were happy. I admit - I would have rather purchased 2 rows of 3 090's but I didn't have the room in this theater...maybe in HT2.0.

jikkjack

Can you tell me whats the overall length of the berkline chair when its fully reclined.
couldnt find this online.
thanks

Dude,

Seats look great, I'm sure you'll enjoy them. I got back late last night, saw your emails from this morning, will call you later.

Bud

Looks fantastic Jason!! I really like the effect of the wood columns and sconces you chose. And you've made me even more anxious to get my seats!

jikkjack

Can you tell me whats the overall length of the berkline chair when its fully reclined.
couldnt find this online.
thanksIt's on berkline's site for whatever respective model you're looking at. http://www.berkline.com/secure/planner/intro.html

Looks fantastic Jason!! I really like the effect of the wood columns and sconces you chose. And you've made me even more anxious to get my seats!

Thanks Brew! I have been waiting since Feb '07 to get these chairs. Long story but just glad to finally get them.

On a side note - I am seriously thinking about changing the sconces. :eek: I am still thinking about it but might ultimately change them over to these:

http://images.lightinguniverse.com/img/i/180/hk_5124pb.jpg

jikkjack

Can you tell me whats the overall length of the berkline chair when its fully reclined.
couldnt find this online.
thanks

66" according to the spec sheet. I will measure tonight and let you know if that is indeed correct.

Thanks Brew! I have been waiting since Feb '07 to get these chairs. Long story but just glad to finally get them.

On a side note - I am seriously thinking about changing the sconces. :eek: I am still thinking about it but might ultimately change them over to these:

http://images.lightinguniverse.com/img/i/180/hk_5124pb.jpg
Interesting. Do you have a closer picture of the sidewall with the current sconces? Your room has a bit of a modern edge to it - I'm wondering if such a traditional sconce might look a bit out of place? I guess its hard to say unless you try one... That said, you probably shouldnt' heed my advice on sconces given the process I went through on mine ;)

Jason - Glad you finally got the seats. Looks great.

I'm with Craig on the sconces......your room does have a very modern look and current scones look great in that respect.

Cheers,
Mark

I agree with Craig and Mark, the current sconces you have "fit" the room. I think you hit a home run on the first at bat, don't come out swinging for the fences!

Looking great, keep up the good work!
Chip

But I really like your current sconces (what I can see in the photos). To be honest I'm really am not a fan of the proposed new ones for your room. Craig is right about your space having a modern, clean-cut feel to it. But let that stop you for going with whatever you like. :)

Hmmm...very interesting feedback guys. I actually thought the brass would highlight the stained wood columns/trim and add a little more formal warm traditional look to the space. Thanks to all for the feedback. You guys just saved me 600 dollars. :D

Very nice theater! I have a quick question: How far are you front seat from the screen? I will have a similar sized room to work with in my new house and I just laying it out right now.

Thanks Jelloslug and welcome to the forum!

The front seats are at about 13' (front of chair to screen).

Here is your best bet. Go to Projector Central (http://www.projectorcentral.com/) and find your projector.

On the selected projector page, scroll down and you will see a calculator icon next to Throw Distance. Click the calculator icon and put in the distance of the projector from the screen. At the top, in the yellow box, it will give you Recommended Seating Distance at X Throw Distance where x is the location of the projector.

This website is invaluable for determining projector mounting location, screen size and seating location. :D

Thanks, that's a another site to bookmark for me!

Finished up the wine cellar...

I am going to re-paint the entire room and still looking for the right light to replace the temporary one... :)

Turned out ok for a small little room.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC195.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC196.jpg

Jason, congrats, that looks really nice. Maybe keep the old light bulb like when you see the wine cellar in some old movies, just one bare buld barely flickering...

Lookls like the next purchase needs to be some vino. There sure are allot of empty spaces, and those 4 bottles sure look lonely.

Thanks Michael. Yes. You are correct. That thing will hold about 120 bottles (according to my calculations). I plan on filling it over the next month or two... :)

I think I am going to try to get a single spot light with an amber glass to aim at the rack and then put in a couple of small directional eyeball lights. First I am going to paint the entire room so today I am off to orange and blue to look at paint swatches.

That looks awesome Jason, fantastic job!!

Nice job Jason! I can't wait to see it filled up :) Do you plan to install some type of AC unit to keep the temo at the perfect level?

Jason, great job. Forget the wine, just fill it with champagne....

Bud

LOL. Thanks guys! I am going to try and find a all-in-one unit for temp control. First we are looking to replace the door with a Iron and glass door to seal the room. Looking for a vineyard type look. Tonight/tomorrow I am finishing up the new paint job for the room and hopefully the new lights.

I also finished painting my theater door black yesterday in anticipation on starting the new ticket booth I am going to attach to it this week.

More pics soon!

Jason, nice to see the final result - very well done!
Would be good to have a climate controled area there if you would like to keep some good reds stored for some years...

Thanks Mike,

Not quite done just yet...more pics soon. (evil laugh here...) he he he he.

First we are looking to replace the door with a Iron and glass door to seal the room. Looking for a vineyard type look.

I was thinking about a wine cellar also...until I saw the prices of the nice doors and the cooling systems:eek:. Yours looks great, you deserve a case of PBR.

Thanks Gonzo. I am still looking for the door but will make one if I can't find what I like.

This theater is one of the nicest that I've seen. Wow I love the wood work. I would love to imitate the look. Would you tell me the dimensions of your columns? Also did you miter the sides? I can't quite tell. It looks so amazing! Thanks.

Thanks auscarmom,

The columns are 26" wide x 8 feet high. The sides are not mitered to keep the column box look. I considered it though and ultimately decided against it. I wanted a floating column look and used the 1" overhang on each side of the column to allow for stapling the fabric to the furring strips on the wall and then using a 1" x 2.5" fabric wrapped furring strip for each side of the column to hide the staples.

Feel free to imitate and let me know if I can help answer any questions.:)

Jason

Great look!

I have begun planning and design of my theater using a combination rip-off of yours, Bud's and my own designs. Thanks for the inspiration.

How are you liking the 088's now that you have been using them for a while? Can you really put them only 3" away from the back wall and fully recline? Is there any issue with head support and if you get a chance can you take a pic with one of them fully reclined?

Thanks for everything on this thread and most importantly the inspiration.

Thanks rsprance. Just catching up here...

I really like the 088's. Yes - you can really put them about 3" away from a wall. I have them about 5" away from my snack bar attached to the back of the riser just to make sure the leather doesn't get scratched.

Head support is not an issue for me at 6' tall. I think the only problem with the 088's are the fact that they are a little too comfortable. I have fallen asleep numerous times in them!!!

If I had the room - I would have purchased the 090's but that will have to wait for HT 2.0.

I will take a picture of them reclined. I will put my wife in the picture instead of me because she looks better. ;)

Hey Jason, is that wine rack full yet? ;)

Minor updates on other parts of the basement...

Been very busy lately but finally getting around to posting some more pictures of some of my other basement finishing projects.

Here is the updated picture of the wine cellar after new paint but minus the new door (which I am still looking for) and wine, which is now there...

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/basement012.jpg

and then I also got around to putting the granite tile in the game room...well - at least one counter is done. I still need to grout and caulk it in but it gives enough of the idea of color selection/look.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/basement017.jpg

That plant is being replaced very soon with a popcorn machine. :D:D

I hope to have the entire game room finished up in the next month or 2...depending on other obligations...

Forget the popcorn machine, is there beer in the fridge?

Bud

Jason

Is your project finished yet? :)

Ha ha. NEVER! ;)

I have made some progress on my game room but that is about it. I am still looking for the right Pub Table and Bar Stools to finish out that room. The wife is still looking for decorations for the entire basement. I will take some updated pictures and post them this weekend.

Few updated pictures. I really need to get back in gear with the basement project but having too much fun with the theater room...

First, I finished putting the counter tops in on the kitchenette type area. The flash will make the grout stand out a little more than it does in person.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC199.jpg

Second, I finished the backsplash (for decorative effect) on the back counter. This counter now just needs a new Popcorn Machine. I am looking this week for one to replace the plant.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC200.jpg

Third, got my wooden letters in for the bar/game area. The wife and I decided on...

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC201.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC202.jpg

The next thing to do is paint the crown moulding, get a Pub Table & Stools for the game room, and decorate (wife's job).

I will also be adding a 42" LCD to the game room...

Tile came out great... take a look at popcorn machines at Costco (look online), I just renewed our membership, we can go pick one up...

Bud

that is one nice snack bar area. i think its just what my wife has in mind. where did you get the "fins up" triangle sign? very cool.

Nice tile job - bar sign looks great too.

For Pub accessories take a look at: http://www.thepubshoppe.com/

Cheers,
Mark

that is one nice snack bar area. i think its just what my wife has in mind. where did you get the "fins up" triangle sign? very cool.

Thanks Aham. I got that sign at the local Publix. Covert operation. :D

Thanks Mark. Will take a look at that site. The basement still needs lots of decorations/furniture.

I am now considering some big changes...stay tuned.

Quick update. Just wanted to show off my new toy. I am in the process of setting up my new MX-980 Remote with a nice parchment graphical display. This theme really compliments the Nautical theme in our house. I had to alter the default graphics a little but the real work with any URC remote is setting up all of the macros and testing.

Well - at least I know what I will be doing for the next few days. :)

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/Remote.jpg

How easy is it to customize & program......assunimg there is a PC app. Can you get the codes fort other devices from the web or do you need to get the remote to learn.

Will be eagerly awaiting your results and how you like your new toy.

Cheers,
Mark

SWEET the 980 looks freaking awesome! the remote and BluRay are my next purchase. for remotes the 980, 810, and 900 are on my short list. let us know what you think. customized graphics are sooo cool on a remote. later.

Jason

You can come over and build my wet bar next :D

ha ha! Ok. Sounds good. I still have to add one of those Bowl Sinks to mine. I am just being lazy and taking my time to get to that project. Since I did not originally plan to have a bar area, I didn't run all of the copper pipes under the sink area. I have a friend who is a plumber that told me it would not be hard at all to retrofit into my current area. He is going to assist me when I get around to it.

Jason,

Do you have a closeup photo of the front of your bar showing the bead board? I am curious how you did your corners.

John

John,

I will snap one tonight. I just used a piece of corner trim found at HD in a L pattern. It hid the seems perfectly and is low profile.

No need for the picture then. I thought that is what it was but it was hard to tell. I am using bead board as well so i was curious as to how you did that area.

Thanks,

John

Ok. I am putting up all of my linacoustic and batting first and then will add the firing strips once I finalize my decision on what I want to do. Right now the thinking is basemolding, chair rail molding, and crown. It is so easy to cut the linacoustic that I am not worried about having to retrofit the furing strips in later.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC24-vi.jpg

Batting on the other side.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC25-vi.jpg

Ok. That brings us to where I am right now...

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC26-vi.jpg


By putting that material up on the walls is that an easy way to do acoustical treatments? And does JoAnn fabric sell it as "linacoustic". Do others recommend this method as well?

NO. If you read on further into my thread - you will see that I ended up ripping it all down and hired Bpape to help me with acoustical treatment selection/placement. I originally was just copying what others had done...big mistake.

JoAnn fabric does not have Linacoustic. They sell the polybatting.

NO. If you read on further into my thread - you will see that I ended up ripping it all down and hired Bpape to help me with acoustical treatment selection/placement. I originally was just copying what others had done...big mistake.

JoAnn fabric does not have Linacoustic. They sell the polybatting.

Ah, I see...I guess I missed the part about ripping it down...sometimes I get lost in long posts and just miss stuff. Are your new acoustic treatments a much better solution?

Night and day my friend...I am soooo glad I changed it out.

Jason - how is the MX-980 Remote. Now you've had it a week what are your thoughts on ease of use & ease to program?

Also I recollect you have the PS3 in your set up. I believe that does not support IR/RF natively just Blue-Tooth. Have you found a way to control it with the MX-980? I read there is a way by using 'PS2 Controller to USB adapter' and then a 'external IR receiver' that slots into the adapter. But even then remote functions are limited.

Nearly ready to pull the trigger on remote.

Cheers,
Mark

Jason - how is the MX-980 Remote. Now you've had it a week what are your thoughts on ease of use & ease to program?

Yup also curious.

Also I recollect you have the PS3 in your set up. I believe that does not support IR/RF natively just Blue-Tooth. Have you found a way to control it with the MX-980? I read there is a way by using 'PS2 Controller to USB adapter' and then a 'external IR receiver' that slots into the adapter. But even then remote functions are limited.

Three options I know of:

1. The old PS2 DVD remote to USB adapter
2. The Nyko remote + dongle (~$20 on amazon)
3 The one some developer made and has a following here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=946674

The third one has two models, one for $50 that can turn the PS3 on /off (the missing feature in all the other options), and one for $35 that acts a reportedly more reliable version of 1 and 2 (which have had lag issues from time to time).

[QUOTE=jikkjack;12831542]NO. If you read on further into my thread - you will see that I ended up ripping it all down and hired Bpape to help me with acoustical treatment selection/placement...QUOTE]

JJ... do you have a solid screen?... or AT? Just curious as to what prompted the change from linacoustic to 703 on the front wall.

Mark and Dave - I like the 980. The software editor is a little wonky at times but overall it is ok. Programming has taken me quite a bit of time and effort. I haven't decided on a PS3 solution yet but probably will buy one of the ones mentioned above. Since you have to go to the PS3 to put a movie in it...dosen't seem to necessitate the power on/off functionality for me rather the IN MOVIE controls. Currently, I have the PS3 controller and MX-980 sitting side-by-side on the seat to my right and that will not change even if I do get a control option for moives on the PS3.

Jjackknife - I have a solid screen. Bpape (Acoustical Engineer) prompted the changes with an acoustical analysis of the room.

I agree that the power button stuff is overblown on PS3 control. I am mostly out of the universal remote market pending my move. But URC seems like a logical step up from Harmony (I have the 880 in my den, good not great).

Sorry for the mini-hijack.

Mark (DC), tried to PM you but you're not accpeting PMs. Shoot me an email when you get a chance.

Carry on.

By the way, looking good Jason!

Bryan

I have been pretty busy lately and noticed that I never posted final shots of my theater or the basement. So - this weekend I will try to get some updated (final shots). I am getting a new toy today to replace my very outdated projector. Anyone else have the new Panasonic AE-2000U? I am pretty excited about getting it and can't wait to see difference between my old 720P vs. new 1080P.

where the pics of the new projector

where the pics of the new projector

Yeah, your thread has crickets (http://new.wavlist.com/soundfx/014/cricket-1.wav)chirping, pal.

Bud

Second, I finished the backsplash (for decorative effect) on the back counter. This counter now just needs a new Popcorn Machine. I am looking this week for one to replace the plant.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC200.jpg



I am VERY IMPRESSED!

Excellent work!

May I ask where you got your granite tiles, with the edge pieces?

Old

Thanks Old. I got them at Floor and Decor (http://www.flooranddecoroutlets.com/). They have a pretty good selection and great prices.

@morpheus6d9 - I will try to post some updated pictures this weekend. I think it is a weekend where I actually don't have anything going on. Fingers crossed.

Ok - after a long hiatus...I am back. I will have updated pictures this weekend and will also begin working on this:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/jmame-1.jpg

More pics soon...

cool, a mame machine will make a great addition to your basement!

I built one a few years back and have gotten a lot of enjoyment out of it.


http://members.cox.net/nebrunner/images/jen2.jpg

Awesome. Now I have a resource if I have any questions. Thanks for the post Nebrunner.

welcome back :D

Thanks Mark! :D Looks like you are busy too! Ah Winter. A time to build and stay warm indoors.

When are you going to be down our way again?

No plans at present - but I'll be sure to let you know if I'm in town again.

Will be following your MAME project - its on my list too

I just spent 2 hours (or so) reading your thread.

Great!

We GA guys have to stick together. I'm in Macon and just moved here a few months ago. My own plans for my basement our numerous...and not yet started!

I love your attention to detail and the overal design.

Thanks John. I agree and will look forward to your build process thread.

So this weekend I will begin work on the Mame machine and have also started another project too. I decided long ago to change directions with the basement and have finalized on the last part of the change. Instead of a huge workshop - I am cutting out half to facilitate a game table and allow 3 windows to let in a lot of natural light into the main concession area. Here is the updated blueprint of the final basement design.

OLD DESIGN>>>>http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/basement-vi.jpg
NEW DESIGN>>>>http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/basement-vii.jpg


Here are the projects to finish this winter:
1. Finish new game room
2. Build Mame Machine
3. Finish Storage shelving area and hang Crown moulding/paint
4. TAKE SOME PICTURES. I was looking back through my thread and was underwhelmed by my picture taking abilities. I am going to buy a tri-pod for my camera and try hard to get some good pictures for this thread.
5. Fully document the Mame cabinet for any others that want to replicate or modify my design. I did this with my concession counter and you can find the thread for that here: Jikkjack's Concession Counter Plans (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1070196http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1070196)
6. Move the mirror in the current concession area and replace with cork wall framed dart board! :D:D
7. Build a game table** The wife is not too happy with this idea and may trump my decision and opt to buy a game table instead...we will see.;)

Hmm, less workout space, less workshop space, more game space.....sounds like a plan.

Storage always takes it on the chin too.

Good to see you posting Jason. Good luck with the MAME project.

Jason,

I envy you guys with basements. I would love to have space for a dedicated workshop. Currently I'm using my 3rd car garage slot as a workshop + bike and lawn equipment storage. My wife has talked about moving up north where basements are more common -- but I guess maybe I should find a job up there first??? :D

I'll be following your MAME build -- looks like a great project.

Here are some of the things that came today:

Trackball, 2 joysticks:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3252.jpg

Bag-o-buttons:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3247.jpg

Went up to home depot and got the 3 pieces of 1/2" MDF and 2x4's along with the wire and connectors for the Arcade controls:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3254.jpg

Off to the basement to begin building...I am probably going to get sidetracked by football so we will see how much I can get done today.

Good to see you guys: Big, Dave and Steve! It is good to be back and will be checking in on all of your progress this weekend too! I know you all have been busy and I need to see what you guys have been up to.

So with all of the great football this weekend...I was only able to accomplish a couple of things:

Finished the drywall of the new gameroom:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3346.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3348.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3347.jpg

and started working on the Mame machine.

I cut out the back and sides...and cut out the openings in the back for the Monitor (heat escape), Computer board/power supply, and Subwoofer.

I am using an old Altec Lansing 5.1 surround system for my Mame machine. I cut the 2x4 frames and should have them put together tonight.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3339.jpg

I also ordered a 1/16" slot cutter and T-moulding that should come in later this week.

Ok. More pictures.

I finished framing out the main box of the Mame machine.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3362.jpg

Once this was completed, I built the shelf to hold my Sub Woofer

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3365.jpg

And here is a picture of the 6" down firing sub woofer that will be the bass for my Mame/Music Jukebox unit. It has 3 pieces of AC foam tape that will give a nice pad between the Sub and shelf so no rattle. Once this sub is mounted, it will fire bass out the back toward the wall.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3364.jpg

Shelf with 2 pieces of tape and you can see the strapping adhesive in the 3rd piece which will hold tight to the MDF wood surface. This piece is applied over the back edge.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3366.jpg

I am using the padded feet of the sub woofer as the perfect spacing between the back of the Mame cabinet and the wall. Just push it up against the wall and it is flush on the feet and perfectly perpendicular to the wall.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3370.jpg

Side shot:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3377.jpg

Secured the sub in place with 2x4's and more insulation tape around the inside of the 2x4's so no rattle whatsoever. The sub is removable too but fits snug in the insulated tape home. The gap on the right side between the 2 - 2x4's will have a drilled hole for the audio wires that connect on the bottom of the sub woofer. I will also route the power wire up through the cabinet to the computer section.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3376.jpg

Tomorrow I will begin work on the Computer Section - Motherboard/Power supply etc...

I'll let figure it all out, then you can build mine. Looks great by the way.

Was the window trimmed out before or did you do that as well? ou know if you add a closet in that room, you could call it an additional bedroom.

Bud

I framed it. The windows were actually for a 2x4 wall instead of my 2x6 wall so I ended up custom building the whole thing. The window was brought out by ripped 2x4's and 3/4"pine for the stops. I used a 1x6 ripped and routed to 5" for the custom sill. Turned out pretty good for my first framed window. Thanks man. Ha ha...I don't need another bedroom.

Ok. So tonight I accomplished just a few things because I had to take my bike to the bike shop.

Here you can see that I stripped down an old computer case to the aluminum chassis. I have about 4" above the top from the back of the Mame box to connect wires/etc.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3382.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3383.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3384.jpg

Once that was completed, I attached the front and can now begin working on the front piece that will hold the Control Panel. I was working on that today and created a visio file that I will put through our plotter. I will post a jpeg of the final control panel tomorrow if I finish it.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3387.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3389.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3391.jpg

Thanks for the Pics. In case of a tornado I'm pretty sure that you could just huddle near your Mame case it looks pretty sturdy.

Great thread. I have no idea how I ended up missing this one. Love the wine rack.

Thanks guys! Big - what have you been up too lately. I saw you (or Jimmy Buffett) in Mark's thread...:D

I didn't get to work on the Mame machine yesterday, because I was on a bike trail in the mountains until dark, but did manage to finalize the design for the control panel. It is kind of hard to see but I will take pictures of it again tonight when it is fixed to the wood panel to be cut out.:)

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/MameLayout-1.jpg

My T-moulding and router bit should be hear today too! That is what I have been waiting on so I can attach the sides, top and bezel.

Wow, I love the look and design of your Mame machine. Good luck with the rest of it, though I get a feeling you don't need luck.

My T-moulding and router bit should be hear today too! That is what I have been waiting on so I can attach the sides, top and bezel.


Are going to use a router table or struggle with a hand held?

Thanks Oman - I won't say no to some good luck. I was looking through your thread and looks great. I really like that custom screen you built. Top notch work there.

Big - My table saw actually has a place to mount a router to it and is probably the direction I will go in. If all else fails though...

I didn't get to work on the Mame machine yesterday, because I was on a bike trail in the mountains until dark


I hope you buried the body deep enough to account for rain :)

Thanks, it really turned out to be easier than I expected. I was nervous about it and wasn't sure if the screen track and splining the material would work out, but it turned out great and if I ever need to replace the material it will be a matter of an hour or so. If I had worked straight thru I probably could have done the whole thing in about 3 days or less. Keep up the good work and the pics coming.

i hope you buried the body deep enough to account for rain :)

;)

Jason,

Are one of your controls a "spinner" for games like "Tempest"? It appears that the one in dead center is a roller-ball with joysticks on either side. So.. my guess is no.

And I've seen one guy that built a modular version that allow for easy swap-out of different controls to get the setup "perfect" (depending on the game played).

I'm considering building a mini MAME table I can either stand behind or sit behind and use my 124" HT as the display. I don't have the room for a dedicated MAME machine :(

Hey Steve,

Unfortunately, I had to skip adding a spinner...I just didn't want to build a huge Mame machine and this one is actually going to be pretty low profile.

I might consider the modular top though...that is a great idea. Let me know if you have any questions...although you are talented enough that you will most likely just pick it right up like me! :D:cool:

Finished putting on the sides tonight after routing the sides with the new 1/16" router bit I got with the T-moulding.

I ran out of daylight so I will have to wait and pick this back up on Saturday AM. I won't have time to work on it tomorrow.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3395.jpg

Hey Steve,

Unfortunately, I had to skip adding a spinner...I just didn't want to build a huge Mame machine and this one is actually going to be pretty low profile.

I might consider the modular top though...that is a great idea. Let me know if you have any questions...although you are talented enough that you will most likely just pick it right up like me! :D:cool:
I found the "guy" that made the modular design. He put a bunch of RJ45 jacks under the "control" board to plug-in his modules. It does make for a very flexible design :) Check it out HERE (http://www.beersmith.com/mame/panels.htm).

I'm not saying you need to do this but it is always nice to have options to consider :D

Oh and YES, I will be following your lead on the MAME machine. Keep up the great work!!

Hey,

I just found out about this friendly MAME front-end. You probably already know about it but if you don't, check it out HERE (http://malafe.net/). Also, watch this YouTube Video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C2DU9S1lX9A) for a demo of it along with a monster 4-person MAME box.

Dammit man, you have me side tracked. I'm not getting any work done today ;)

Ha ha! Mame is addictive for sure! Especially when you start getting all of the buttons, joysticks, and the encoder shows up. The only thing that hasn't shown up now is the black textured laminate from Parts Express. Yep - that is what I am going to use for sure. When are you going to start building your control panel?

Jason - great progress.

Be sure to post up a complete list of parts etc..... this could be a nice winter project after I complete some others.

Cheers,
Mark

When are you going to start building your control panel?
It's on the list. I'm deep in the bar cabinet right now. I'm hoping to get that completed in the next few weeks. I just had another "mini-meeting" with the wife about handle hardware. While those are on order, I can get the clear coat applied, drawers installed and move the sucker upstairs (Ugg!).

So - I had a couple of challenges today with the Mame machine.

First, I had to customize a mount for the LCD and came up with a very workable solution from an old metal bracket. I attached it to a 2x4 and bam! Instant mount that will never be seen except from the back. This allows for easy changing out the LCD if it ever goes bad in the future.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3397.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3401.jpg

Then spent a good deal of time on the top/bottom and sides of the cabinet.

Mix in some football and I only got to here yesterday:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3406.jpg

I am heading out to the Airshow today so I might be able to finish up the speaker boxes and monitor bezel and move on to the front control panel later this afternoon. At least that is my plan but jets screaming through the air definitely come first. :D:D

Airshow was awesome! Here are just a few pics of my favorite part. They called it the Heritage and it was a P-51 Mustang, F-15E, and F-22 Raptor all flying together. It was fantastic! :D

Mustang and F-15E:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/AirShow2008105.jpg

Raptor:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/AirShow2008107.jpg

and the Heritage. You are looking at WWII to present of sheer awesome flying power:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/AirShow2008124.jpg

What part of Georgia are you in?

West Cobb (Marietta) - about 15 minutes away from Dobbins.

West Cobb (Marietta) - about 15 minutes away from Dobbins.

I used to work for Lockheed Martin. Was the air show at Dobbins? I remember a long stint of time where they weren't doing that because there was a crash on Cobb Parkway. Can't remember exactly when it occurred.

Yep. I drive past Lockheed every day. They actually have had a couple over the past few years. The Thunder Birds performed for this airshow and the Blue Angels performed at the one before it a few years back. Small world.

I was going to post this earlier but the camera battery needed to be recharged. Here is the latest picture of the Mame machine. The bezel is not secured in this pic but rather just set into place. I am finally getting to the control panel and front panel holder. If all goes as planned this weekend, I might even get to start on the Marquee for the top.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3565.jpg

Things left to do:
1. Finish up the control panel and holder.
2. Finish the marquee for the top.
3. Apply black vinyl laminate and T-moulding.
4. Wire up all buttons, joysticks and trackball.
5. Add plexi-glass over the monitor bezel and control panel play surface.
6. Add graphics to the machine.
7. Move the power outlet down behind the Mame machine...originally I was going to put a 42" TV on this wall but changed my mind.

This project is definitely taking much longer than I expected. I already have over 20 hours into this and probably have about that many more to go! :eek:

Looks like a good start. I started with an existing case from and old arcade game. Here is a picture of mine in my HT. I want to add some graphics to it to finish it off. The keyboard drawer pushes in to hide it. It is a lot of work but boy is it fun to play with after.

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o72/xnaron/100_2342.jpg

Looks good Xnaron. What size LCD/Monitor did you end up going with?

My biggest problem (with my modified design) might be the trackball spacing for Golden Tee. I hope it turns out but if it doesn't...then I will just have to build a stand alone Golden Tee/Tiger Woods golf trackball stand. :D

There's a ROM out for Golden Tee??

Yes...older 2k version but it is out there. I think I will end up playing more Tiger Woods 2008/9 since it supports trackball and looks better! I will actually mount a dvd drive in my mame machine to play other PC games on this too!

I updated my initial render of the mame machine I am working on. I will go ahead and post it again here too:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/jmame-1.jpg

This is what the final design should look like.

Jason,

I love that you've put a twist on the traditional MAME/Arcade machine design. And I totally understand how things take longer than expected. If you could take off a week from work, I'm sure you could fly through it ;)

Seem the later it gets, the slower I move. Partly so I don't make mistakes and partly because my brain slows down a bit. However, take one of these and you're good for 5 hours!! :eek: Luckily I've gotten by without the needed PUNCH :D

http://www.shotzenergy.com/public/images/fruit_punch_fury_order.gif (http://www.shotzenergy.com/)

Thanks Steve - you are definitely correct! Could use a couple of those now as I feel like this thing is taking forever to complete.

Made some more progress...

Finished up the control panel box -

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3577.jpg

and now just have to cut out the buttons, joysticks and trackball.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3578.jpg

Here is where the Mame machine is as of tonight. Lots of distractions today so I didn't get to start putting on the black laminate. Probably do that on Tuesday night. Tomorrow, I am going to try and get all of the control panel top parts drilled out and start on the wiring of all the buttons. I can't route the edge of the control panel until all of the buttons are cut out...don't want to take a chance of moving the template.;)

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3583.jpg

Come on Jason - don't leave us waiting :(

Dude is too busy playing his new MAME machine! Good for him.

New pictures from the game room...

Painted candy counter with black decorative fish net on top:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC181.jpg



Thanks for the design JIKKJACK. I liked it so much, I made one myself!

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y231/auburnu008/IMG_3033.jpg

I soooo wish I had the room for something like that. Looks very nice!

Awesome job auburnu008! That looks great! Hopefully the plans helped but I see you did some modifications that look great.

Mark - I have been busy lately and haven't had much free time to work on the Mame machine but have made some progress.

Here is where I am at right now. I just test fit all of the buttons and should finish the control panel this week. I have to install the trackball and joysticks next then cover the deck. That will leave me with moving the outlet down behind the machine and creating a graphic + installing the Marquee on the top to complete the project. This thing sounds great! I am also using it as a Jukebox too!

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3669.jpg

So I am almost done with the Control Panel but will hold off posting a picture until it is completed (hopefully tonight). I have been thinking a lot about the Marquee and have finally decided what I am going to do. I was originally going to do the standard plexiglass sandwich with a graphic in the middle + backlight - but changed my mind. I am going to get 4" wooden letters painted metallic silver. I will mount them with about a 1/4" offset on a black wooden panel with strategic light holes so I can back-light the letters. Should be a cool effect (glowing edges) and give the mame machine a little more custom look.

Here is the font for the letters:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/marquee.jpg

Jason,

MAME machine is coming along very nicely!! I like the back-lit Marquee idea. What are you using for the light source? Have you considered using LED lights back there to give it a "ice-white" look. Nice part about the Christmas season is there is a plethora of options at your local Walmart :)

Also, where are you stashing your keyboard? I did not see a "drawer" that slides out in the front. Are you just planning to pull it around from the back when needed OR could it be stored under the control panel with a hinged door?

Thanks Steve,

That is exactly what I am going to use. Ice blue LED lights.

I shouldn't need a keyboard because I am using a Key40 keyboard encoder. It has a Shazzam key (groovygamegear.com's word for shift) - each button can have a normal key press and alternate key press(es). That means that with the trackball (mouse), joysticks and buttons - I will essentially have every keyboard letter or input that I will ever need without needing a keyboard!! :D

While very classy in appearance the word MAME means very little to your average guest.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/marquee.jpg

Something more catchy and powerful connected to your overall theme maybe?

Hey big - I agree but unfortunately...I ran out of creativity when it came to a name.

I'd go with Fortuna - tied to your name/theme and with gaming and chance.

Google image search of "Fortuna logo" gave me these (if the pics load):

http://www.mellowmood.hu/images/hotels_hostels/fortuna_hotel/fortuna_logo.png

or

http://www.sparta.cz/img/u/app/gallery/2006/09/29/4965_fortuna_logo.jpg

or

http://www.imperial-tobacco.com/files/financial/reports/ir2008/images/logos/thumb_fortuna.jpg

How about "Royal Fortune Arcade" ?

GOT GAME?
GameGOD
GAME-RAMA
PLAY CITY
ZAPPER
GAME MECCA
FEELING LUCKY?
TOP GAMER
BIG GAME
BIG GAMER
GOTCHA
YADA YADA
THINK YOU CAN?
GAME.COM
BUTTON PUSHER
GRABBER
MY GAMES
MAN GAMES
CINEGAMER
TRY ME
LOOKY HERE
JASON's GAMER
JGAMER
FORTUNATOR
GAME AID
ROYAL GAMES

You guys are good. I am going to have to think these through...

I will have some time as the project continues to drag on due to time consuming tasks. The wire mounts look all nice and clean:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_36711.jpg

Then you get to this:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_36721.jpg

and finally this:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_36741.jpg

Tonight - I should have everything semi-cleaned up and installed. Currently - I am formatting the hard drive in the pc to get it ready for a fresh install and new partitions for Music, Games, and Photo's.

I also need to decide how the control panel will attach...I was going to use a hinge but it is not going to work due to the angle. Now I am considering wood strips. I am also thinking of using magnets.

Bad news...the key 40 encoder that I got does not work with my computer. I have 2 old gaming rigs and both have issues. It seems to work on the wife's laptop with no problem which makes no sense because any computer is supposed to see it as a PS/2 Keyboard and that should be universal. I am working with the tech support but it doesn't look like this is going to go anywhere. So I am ordering a new Key Encoder today and will give that a try this weekend.

In the mean-time, I found out that I wired the grounds traditionally but I can daisy-chain them. After I daisy-chain the negitives together it will help clean up this wiring nightmare a little more. So - I will work on that and few other odds & ends until the new key encoder shows up. Bummer.

Not had time to browse AVS much lately - nice to see this project progressing.

What resources are you using on the parts and wiring?

Cheers,
Mark

Assuming you don't already have the new key encoder, you should try www.ultimarc.com. Andy's quality and customer support are great.

The I-PAC2 will handle a 2-player control panel, and an I-PAC4 will handle 4 players, or 2 players with a lot of extra buttons. Available in USB or PS/2.

I-PAC4 in my control panel...
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=127824&stc=1&d=1230486000

Close-up of the stage. I really like the way this turned out. :)

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC10-vi.jpg

Here is a picture looking back from the stage to the riser. The speaker wires on the left hanging down by the column are to go outside to our deck.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC11-vi.jpg

I'm in the process of figuring out my riser. I too have a 12' wide room and I'm planning on using 088's. I saw the width of the riser was 88" but I couldn't or overlooked the depth to the bar wall. I was thinking almost 7' but if I could go smaller that would be an added benefit.

Also, how are you liking the 88's? I really wanted the 90 but won't work.

Thanks

Trey

Hey jimlab - I actually did buy the I-Pac2 after the KeyWiz40 didn't work. I highly recommend the I-Pac2 to anyone else looking for a quality (working) key encoder. Excellent job wiring that CP up. Where can I see some more pictures of your build?

I am about to build my final CP (I have 2 test tops and have finally decided on the final layout).

Mark - I got the X-Arcade bundle (2 joysticks and 20 buttons) for 39.95 and an X-Arcade trackball for 60 bucks. I think if I were to do this over I would have bought a better quality trackball and joysticks from happcontrols.com. I picked up some 18 gauge wire from home depot for the wiring but you can also use cat 5 cable...which I should have done also.

jagerbombster - I like the 88's. I would have liked a wider room so I could have used the 90's but that will be for the next house/theater.

I can't remember the length of the riser but will measure it for you tonight. Have you purchased your 88's yet?

Not yet. I'm still trying to figure out my riser.

I too have a narrow room that I wish was a bit wider and longer but at least I'm going to have something......... eventually.

Makes it a bit more difficult having the narrow room though.

I am also going to go with the 088's since my ht room is narrow. I think it's a great chair that is still roomy, but can fit in narrow spaces. Plus I need to lose weight so my fat A*$ can won't get stuck in the 88's.

Going to go with the 2- 88's with arm & drink holder on the left and nothing on the right and 2- 88's with arm & drink holder on the right and nothing on the left....to make a loveseat in the middle.

What type of price have you seen out there, Bud gave me a name of the person that he got his from, but I can't find it.

jagerbombster & HTanderson - I will send you a PM about the source for seats.

jager - looks like the top of my riser is 62.5" long. The step is 12" in addition to the 62.5 for a grand total of 74.5".

J&HT: Also give RSH a PM he is very active on the forum and many have purchased Berklines from him. His customer support gets rave reviews.

he has a web site as well.

He recently had a Power Buy:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1030785

Finally finished the Mame machine marquee. I still need to build the final control panel but other than that...the machine is done.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3742.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3743.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3744.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3745.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3747.jpg

also have got some more work done on the new game table room.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3750.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3752.jpg

I Love that marquee. When are you going to start taking orders? :)

Great work Jason.

That mame machine turned out beatiful, nicest I have ever seen. The blue highlighting will tie in nicely with my setup. Let me know when your ready to ship it to me.;)

Jason,

Nice job on the MAME machine. Makes me wish I had gone with a flat panel instead of a tube. You make me want to rebuild mine. It has been functional for months and as always it remains to be trimmed out and painted. Yours is just the motivation I needed.

Thanks guys.

I spoke with Chris and he is going to make me a new control panel top out of black abs plastic and also a new plexi-glass cover for the LCD screen. He has a material that is not as reflective that should look better. This weekend I am planning to move the power outlet and cable down behind the machine so that should finish off that area and I can focus on getting this new room completed so I can set-up the new game table.

Damn nice Jason!! Now I have a model to follow! However, too much else to do right now but it's on the list.

jagerbombster & HTanderson - I will send you a PM about the source for seats.

jager - looks like the top of my riser is 62.5" long. The step is 12" in addition to the 62.5 for a grand total of 74.5".

Appreciate it.

Great work Jason.

That mame machine turned out beatiful, nicest I have ever seen.

I agree. Great job. I've been planning on building one for years. Once I get my basement finished I'll get one going.

Hey jimlab - I actually did buy the I-Pac2 after the KeyWiz40 didn't work. I highly recommend the I-Pac2 to anyone else looking for a quality (working) key encoder. Excellent job wiring that CP up. Where can I see some more pictures of your build?Thanks Jason. I think you can see the pictures in my album on crackbook...

http://www.facebook.com/wall.php?id=1637754466&banter_id=1581892944&show_all#/album.php?aid=3803&id=1581892944&op=6

I'm loving the look of this theater. It has the mix of modern, simple and classy that I am looking for.

Do you suggest any other theaters that might have a similar feel?

I know Swithey's is one, obviously, and even Reedzone.

Jason - that came out great. Will definatly be asking more questions when comes time to build mine but like Swithey got other stuff on the list to do.

Thanks!

Here is a picture of the 95% completed machine. I am patching the wall behind it right now where I moved down the electrical and cable outlet. I am about to start work on a new CP top and less reflective plexi-glass cover for the LCD monitor.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3763.jpg

That is a very classy looking MAME setup. What size and model of LCD did you use?

Thanks coctostan,

It is a 19" HP LCD Monitor. Not sure the model number...but I got it at the wife's work for 50 bucks. They were getting rid of some extra inventory.

Thanks coctostan,

It is a 19" HP LCD Monitor. Not sure the model number...but I got it at the wife's work for 50 bucks. They were getting rid of some extra inventory.

do they have anymore ?

I love this theater, and I will be shamelessly ripping it off very soon (in terms of finishing).

- Awesome columns: check
- Nice, modern colors and feel: check
- good lighting: check
- minimal fiddly finishing: check

A couple of questions:

1. you say the GOM/Dazian on the walls is black. They look more "charcoal" to me. Is this just an effect of the camera?

2. Did you consider going multi-tone with your wall fabric? Maybe lighter on top, or switching to lighter halfway back?

3. Do you see an easy way (now that you've done it), to integrate speakers into the columns?

Hey MacBuster! Thanks and feel free to do that.

1. The Dazian is definitely black - I just suck at taking pictures.

2. I considered the lighter fabric at first but decided on all dark colors to eliminate the possibility of light reflection.

3. Yes - if the room was a little wider - I would have worked the surrounds into the columns. Unfortunately, I didn't have enough space to achieve that for this theater.

A couple of other things I would have done differently was with respect to lighting. I was too far along to add Riser Lighting but would have done that. I would have split up my can lights to create a front only zone (first 2 can lights), middle zone (middle 4 can lights) and bar zone (back 2 can lights).

Good luck with your build and feel free to PM or ask questions in this thread. I have been pretty busy lately and have not had time to drop by the forum.

Jason

Almost finished with the new game table room so it's picture time.

Here is where it is right now without any decorations and without a better light to be selected at a later date.

Looking into the game room:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/gameroom_pano1.jpg

Sitting in the window seat looking back at the new Mame machine:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3827.jpg

2 new Pano's of the concession area:

Looking in:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/basement_pano.jpg

Looking out:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/basement_pano2.jpg

I also built and painted the cork backboard for my new Winmau dart board! :D

As usual Jason looks great.......really a space to be proud of. Make me wish I didn't have kids and had greater control of my basement :D

Looking good...talked to that guy in McDonough today, need to fill you in.

Bud

Spectacular!

Thanks guys. Now I have to tackle the storage room...not my favorite room but you have to have one with a wife.

Little side project while I am working on the storage room and workshop...

pimp out the golf cart! :D


http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/IMG_4222.jpg

Little side project while I am working on the storage room and workshop...

pimp out the golf cart! :D
Looks GREAT!! We need more info! Do you have a before/after comparison shot? Was it a wreck and you refurbished it?

What did you use to finish the edges of your columns?

I will be building columns in the next 1-2 weeks and I think they will look a lot like yours, but a touch deeper top fit my side surrounds.

Hey Steve - I am looking back through a box full of real pictures to see if I can find the cart pics when I bought it. I will scan a pic if/when I find it. I have had it for 13+ years and it has been through numerous paint jobs, modifications and adventures. This is a 1989 Marathon metal body cart...see the dent in the side? I still need to fix that. When I got the cart it was smurf blue - rusted with no seats and dry rotted tires/rusted rims, dead batteries, bad solinoid, etc. Imagine the worst case senario and that was this cart. But I got a great deal and working battery charger for about $100.00!!! Everyone in my family thought it was a lost cause but a little elbow grease, welding and lots of new parts was all she needed.

Macbuster - I wrapped wood strips in black dazian and Velcro'ed them to the sides. I was going for a floating column look.

I knew about the wrapped sides.

But what about the very edge of the wood itself?

Or do the sides come up so they cover the edge of the ply?

OH - ok. Sorry about that. There is a wood trim at home depot that looks like an L.

Originally they were unfinished but I went back and added the L wood moulding.

Jason

Misc. Update:

I am doing a little retro wiring in the home theater, media rack and new arcade machine.

I have purchased a new ceiling media box for the theater. I currently have an open plate adapter for the wires to go through smurf tube to the media center rack in the adjacent room. With this new box - I should be able to stuff it with 1" or 2" insulation after putting the new computer VGA wire and existing HDMI wire in it.

This thing looks a little better too! (more low profile). I will post an image in white but I ordered the black version.

http://images.monoprice.com/productlargeimages/46531.jpg

I am running a VGA wire from the arcade machine to the projector for netflix watch instant and an audio cable to the receiver.

Should be a fun minor upgrade while working on the storage room and workshop.

OH - ok. Sorry about that. There is a wood trim at home depot that looks like an L.

Originally they were unfinished but I went back and added the L wood moulding.

Jason

If you have time....do you mind taking a close-up?

Another column question:

how did you fasten them to the wall?

The front face of each column doesn't look like it has a screw through it? Adhesive?

Hey MacBuster - Sorry for the delay in posting but I will take a picture of the column edges for you this weekend and the columns are attached with nails at the top and bottom with liquid nails on the entire back side.

The crown and base molding cover the nail holes.

I am going to have a few new pics of the theater this weekend. I am doing a few updates.

Ok. Here is a picture of the column close up. You can see the corners in this photo.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_4421.jpg

Same column further back.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_4418.jpg

I was playing around with Autostitch with pictures of the theater and got a pretty cool effect. The back row is really not curved like this but I kinda wish it was now because I think this looks pretty cool. Other than that - it gives a better idea of the entrance to the theater.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/Theater_Pano.jpg

WarrenP was over last night and filmed our theater for an upcoming Home Theater Revealed DVD volume. Nice to meet Warren and talk with him about this great DVD series.:)

More information about Warren's DVD series here. (http://www.hometheaterrevealed.com/)

Misc. Update:

I am doing a little retro wiring in the home theater, media rack and new arcade machine.

I have purchased a new ceiling media box for the theater. I currently have an open plate adapter for the wires to go through smurf tube to the media center rack in the adjacent room. With this new box - I should be able to stuff it with 1" or 2" insulation after putting the new computer VGA wire and existing HDMI wire in it.

This thing looks a little better too! (more low profile). I will post an image in white but I ordered the black version.

http://images.monoprice.com/productlargeimages/46531.jpg

I am running a VGA wire from the arcade machine to the projector for netflix watch instant and an audio cable to the receiver.

Should be a fun minor upgrade while working on the storage room and workshop.
Jason, I just bought one of these for my bedroom. Can you tell me what the box is like without the front panel on it? Does it sit flush with the wall or at least like an old work Carlon box with just a couple of tabs sticking out? I bought a flat panel mount that has holes in it for bringing the cables through the bracket so I won't need the front panel, but need it to sit fairly flush so the bracket sits even with the wall.

Hey Mike,

Yes. It should. Here is a picture of the side.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/IMG_44481.jpg

Hey Mike,

Yes. It should. Here is a picture of the side.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/IMG_44481.jpg

Sweet! That should work perfectly! Thanks for the pic!

Was at Cedia today and it was awesome. Wait until you guys see the new Samsung 240hz 8500...Damn. I am getting one for my house.

Got to talk with Ruben and David Bot at the party Friday night and at Ruben's booth today. He had a very awesome setup and his screens are just fantastic.

Wouldn't mind having the Barco projector he was using and the Cinepro setup from his demo room.

I also got some aluminum tubing and aluminum bars to start up my horizontal masking system. I will have to rebuild the front wall but it will be worth the effort.

So a trip to HD today yielded the following items for the horizontal masking system:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/IMG_4451.jpg

The 1.25" rubber casters fit snug inside of the 1.5" aluminum tubes. I am going to experiment with drilling out a clothes line pulley and/or the aluminum reducing washers for the green coated wire to spool between.

The turnbuckle hook and eye connections will be fastened to the aluminum bars (top and bottom) which is what ScottJ007 did in his 4-way masking system thread. I am following that thread and using some of his ideas in my DIY masking system.

Please give us lot's of details on this project.

Sounds like a plan BigmouthinDC.

Tonight I started the masking system construction. First thing to do is use a dremel and remove the rubber casters and pulley's from their original holders by chopping off the ends of the pins. That leaves me with this.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/IMG_4456.jpg

The clothes line pully has a metal ring in it that I removed with pliers.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/IMG_4458.jpg

I used a 1.5" hole saw to remove the center of the pulley and that leaves me with a pulley that slides over the aluminum tube and will be secured in place with epoxy. There is one of these on each side of the top aluminum tube and will be used for the wire connecting the top and bottom aluminum bar that hold the fabric masks.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/IMG_4460.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/IMG_4462.jpg

Tomorrow - I will begin modifying the screen wall to accommodate the top and bottom rollers.

Nice start looking foward to seeing your progress.

I am very curious to see how this masking turns out, especially considering that carada wants over $2k for theirs.

Thanks guys. I am certain that it can be done for much less than 2k+. Smakovits - the masking system for my screen I priced out around 2900. :eek:

My goal is to build the entire thing for under $300.00 and that includes IR automation.

I'm also looking forward to seeing your progress on the masking system.

BTW, your HT looks fantastic. I've read through your thread a few times. Very nice work.

Good luck with the masking project.

Yes, please keep us updated. I'm very interested in this too.

CJ

I'm all eyes and ears - just subscribed to learn more about DIY masking

Thanks!

Thanks kjlewie and others. I am pretty sure at this point I am going to completely redo the false front wall. When I originally built the false wall I was going to put in a 4:3 aspect ratio screen that quickly was modified for 16:9. At the time (4 years ago) - I was plugging away just to complete the false wall so I could start using the theater. At this point - it seems to make sense to redesign it to accommodate the DIY masking system. Most of the lumber will be reusable and I have some neat ideas for the new and improved false wall.

I bought 4 Flange bearing to roll the aluminum tubes since they are pretty cheap ($4) and will use bolt/washers to attach them to the new false wall. I was going to use rubber casters but feel these will be more sturdy with a wider center for support.

http://www.topmedicalsupply.com/images/P/ec86af57-01.jpg

I am going to see if I have time today at lunch to do a google sketch-up of the new false wall.

Is Bud following along? I know this was on his list too.

Yeah, I'm here. We're in cahoots. Got some ideas from CEDIA and had some discussions about how to move forward. He's gonna be the guinea pig. ;)

Bud

Terrific thread, jikkjack. I appreciate your meticulous approach and really can't wait to see how the masking system comes out.

Thanks blowinsno,

I think I should have the final screen wall 3d pics by tomorrow.

I am at the beach this week so not much progress...next week I should have a lot of new pics.

New screen wall 3d mock-up. I am going by HD on the way home to get the new lumber needed to start construction.

The screen will be recessed 1.25" to allow the masks to travel over the front. The screen is 1" in depth to leave just a 1/4" gap between the panels and screen. The fabric panels will just overlap the edges of the screen when completed as seen by the dark translucent grey box on the left side.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/NewScreenWall.jpg

I have been thinking about how to make the masks blend with the new panels on the screen wall and have finalized on the following way to construct the masks. This will allow me to construct the masks with no sewing of pockets. The furring strip will get wrapped with fabric and then I will staple the masking material to the back of the furring strip. Then just screw the aluminum bar (painted flat black) to the back of the furring strip and Viola. The edge of the furring strip will be hidden by the panels on each side.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/MaskingConstruction.jpg

Finished removing the old screen wall and have all of the pieces cut for the new wall.
Today after work I will assemble the new screen wall and should have some pics to post later today...man it looks weird to not see the screen in the front of the theater.

So I went from this:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_4689.jpg


to this:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_4717.jpg

Here is a close up of the bottom aluminum tube.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_4705.jpg

The top is a mirror image. You can see the gap I created to allow for unrestricted wire travel from the top to the bottom tube. Now that the main re-construction of the screen wall is complete - the next task is to add the masking system, wires, pulley's and then the fun task of automating the whole thing.

Stay tuned. :):):)

Tuned in!!! Nice work so far.

Jason,

Very nice theater, excellent job and that golf cart is sweeeeet.

Jon

Looks good!

Bud

Thanks guys. Yesterday I was experimenting with the cable that pulls the top and bottom aluminum tube. I must admit it does it extremely well with no audible sound that I can hear. I think with the right motor this thing could be completely silent. I am thinking a brushless DC stepper motor with a worm drive gear might be the golden ticket to silent masking.

Fantastic job on the theater. The screen masking system you're working on is very close to one I've considered building. I think I'll hold off until I see how yours turns out:)

Thanks for posting your progress and good luck!

So I'm a bit confused. Do you see the front edge of the furring strip? It seems like you would want that flush with the fabric and not sticking out>? Maybe I missed something along the way or maybe some more pics would help.

Thanks Moguy. I hope I don't let you down. ;)

Whiskey. The furring strip will indeed stick out to meet up with the fabric wrapped panels. The Carada screen has a 1" border that has to be recessed to mask over the top. That leaves the black fabric wrapped panels slightly overlapping the carada screen with a 1" positive offset. The furring strip on the mask will also yield a 1" positive offset to make it meet flush with the top/bottom fabric panels. I might re-design this in the future if I go with an acoustically transparent screen without a frame.

Ok. Time for some more pictures...

Here is what I used to fix the top two pulleys in place.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_4734.jpg

I did one wrap of gorilla tape to snug up the pulley then added glue to fix it into place.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_4732.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_4731.jpg

I attached the main drive wire and secured it with a wire holder. Also added a pulley to eliminate the slack in the line. Something to note here is that the wires have to wrap the top and bottom on different sides to make the top and bottom tube spin in opposite directions. Also it is important to note that the wire spooled at the top and bottom of the tubes travel left and right as the tubes move in each direction. Keep this in mind if you design your own masking system.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_4736.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_4737.jpg

Once that was done - I constructed the mask bar holders:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_4724.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_4743.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_4741.jpg

Then I just was goofing around with some blue tape to figure out the travel which will not be that much...this thing works great and travel is really smooth.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_4739.jpg

Over the next couple of days I will attach the fabric to the tubes and start working on the furring strip to attach to the top and bottom aluminum masking bars. I should have a manual masking system in place by the weekend. Then I will have to work on the new fabric wrapped panels while waiting for all of the electronics to come in for the automation.

:cool:

Impressive, very clever!

Interesting design, are you going to need counter weights? What are you going to use for a controller? I just finished a 4 way system based on Scott's design using the now discontinued Eagle Aspen antenna rotators.

Hey Steve,

I saw your masking system and you did a great job. I am using some of the ideas from Scott's system and some of it I am going to experiment with myself.

I still haven't decided on the controller yet. I am thinking through a couple of options. I don't think I am going to need counter weights but I am planning on adding tension the masking bars with springs or bands. I might need your help if I get stuck.

Thanks Jason, the best advice I can give you is to keep it as simple as possible and don't give up on what you're trying to achieve.

I am glad to report that I have decided on what I need to control the masks for my system. Since the screen is 16:9 native - I just need to have one masking position for 2:35:1 & 2:40:1 which each have the same size horizontal black bars. This makes masking a piece of cake. I need 1 open and 1 closed position with IR control.

I have a huge Insteon Network and it would be great to use the Insteon network and my MX980 Universal Remote...I want to be able to control the masking positions (open and close) with the remote. No problem.

Here is what I need:

Insteon Appliance linc:

http://cache2.smarthome.com/images/2456s3.jpg

This can be turned on and off with IR commands through this device that I already use with the MX980 to control the lights:

http://cache1.smarthome.com/images/2411r.jpg

Here is the actual drape controller I can use plugged into the Insteon on/off for full control over the mask up and down direction.

http://cache1.smarthome.com/images/3142.jpg

This unit has a main switch in the middle that gets flipped left and right by two separate limit arms to stop the motor as it travels CW and CCW. This will serve as my limit switches and motor in one device. Once set-up - each time the limit is reached the switch will get flipped and the motor will turn off. The next time the unit is powered back on, the motor will travel in the opposite direction until the other limit switch turns off the motor. With 2 simple macros after setting up the limits on the drape controller...I should be good to go.

Macro 1 (move masks down to 2:XX:1): - turn on Insteon Appliance linc which automatically turns on the drape controller that runs until the limit arm flips the switch to kill the motor after masks travel X inches (9" in my case) defined by the limit switch. Turn off the appliance linc.

Macro 2 (move the masks up - 16:9): - turn on Insteon Appliance linc which automatically turns on the drape controller that runs until the other limit arm flips the switch the opposite direction to kill the motor after masks travel X inches defined by second limit switch. Turn off the appliance linc.

Turning off the appliance linc in necessary each time to make sure the motor doesn't move in the opposite direction while traveling in CW or CCW rotation.

That's it. :cool:

Tonight I was able to cut most of the new furring strips for the new fabric panels and tomorrow I will begin putting them together. I need to run over to Bud's house and borrow his pneumatic stapler so I can attach the fabric and attach the velvet masks.

More pictures soon.

This project just keeps getting better and better - Please keep up the good (and CLEVER) work !

Thanks Craig!

Here is a picture of the latest developments. I have all of the new top and bottom fabric panel frames built and attached with industrial velcro to test fit.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_4745.jpg

You will notice on the left hand side there is a test piece of furring strip running up the side of the screen. I can't make the speaker panels until I get the masks in place. The blue tape is where the new masks will travel, cover and stop.

I am going to start the masks on Saturday AM - waiting for my black velvet order to come in. I should have the entire wall panels and masks in place by the end of the weekend and next week will get to automate the new masks.:)

Jason - another great project.

How is Atlanta drying out? Had a few colleagues that were affected.

Hey Mark - Thanks!

It is drying out slowly...some roads are still closed but some areas have a lot of damage.

How is everything up there? Are you going to be down this way anytime soon?

This weekend I spent a lot of time installing the masks. They work great and I am happy with the result. I will post pics tonight when I get home. The last thing to do is wrap the panels which I am planning to do this evening.

Here is a picture with the masks retracted:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_4756.jpg

and here they are engaged:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_4757.jpg

Still working out a couple of kinks in the fabric but all in all it looks fantastic and works well. The next step is to add a tension band between the two bars but that will happen once I add the motor. I picked up the staple gun from Bud tonight and will work on the panels tomorrow in addition to adding the motor.

Very nice. I might have to add this to the list. How about a video of that in action?

Looks good !!

Very nice. I might have to add this to the list. How about a video of that in action?

Thanks Tim,

I will take a video after getting this thing automated.

Thanks Craig. Your basement is looking good and you could add a masking system while waiting for the new carpet and it is a good project(excuse) to delay the re-wire of the equipment room!

Tonight I'm going to install the permanent tracks for the masks, add the tension line between the two mask bars, and install the motor. I might have time to automate it with the remote but I also need to cut and attach the fabric for the new false wall panels.

I need to take a vacation day to work on this project. I am sitting at work thinking about all the things I need to do instead of doing them... :rolleyes:

Nice work Jason. To go from concept to near movie ready with so few hiccups is quite impressive.

Thanks kjlewie. I admit I am borrowing ideas that others have done before me but I have some modifications that I can claim as my own.

Here are a couple more pictures. The motor didn't show up tonight so I will have to automate this thing tomorrow evening.

Close up of the track that the bottom mask travels in. I created a cavity in the wooden block for the aluminum bar to slide into. This thing works great.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_4765.jpg

I was able to gently peel the Carada emblem off of the original screen frame and attach it to the new bottom mask.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_4767.jpg

and finally - I was able to wrap and attach 6 panels tonight. I just have the side speaker panels to complete tomorrow evening and add the automation/motor and I am done! :D

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_4763.jpg

I have to say that I am very pleased so far with the results and the new false wall. I think if I ever build another one...I have even more ways that I could improve this design - but that is for false wall 3.0.

Great job!!

CJ

Very nice, looking foward to seeing the video.

Thanks guys.

So the motor came and it is going back...don't like it - loud - and it is not consistent with hitting the stops. Since it was 100 bucks...it should be a lot better in the noise and consistency areas.

I also found a motor that I want more yesterday by Somfy. I think this largely contributed to my decision too.

http://www.av-outlet.com/images/shade/lt30-IR-RH-L.jpg

They have a motor LT30 that my URC remote has IR codes for! This IR controlled motor has 3 memory stops (Top) (Bottom) and (MY Preferred Location) This is great and the fact my URC controller has the codes for it makes it a done deal.

So I am going to have to slightly alter my design to accommodate this new motor/brackets but should work better in the long run.

I finished the speaker panels and now I just have to wait for the new motor to come in to automate everything.

Picture quality is so much better with the masks. Even the wife was impressed by the difference in PQ. Her exact words are - "It looks more crispy". :confused::rolleyes::cool:

Link to the motor?

Looks like a good solution.

EDIT - Found it:

http://www.av-outlet.com/en-us/dept_555.html

Good call on Somfy - it's what SeymourAV uses on their retractable screens.

@ dc - IR controlled Somfy (http://www.av-outlet.com/en-us/dept_555.html)

@ Audixium - yep - I think this will work out a whole lot better. Great work on the demo disk. I can't wait for that to come out.

great work so far. im looking to do the exact same thing with the same somfy motor, although i am going to try and do independant top and bottom masks (2 motors), as i've noticed that not all movies are properly centered. sometimes i found myself needing just a bit more of the bottom mask to come up. in any case, i remember reading somewhere that the somfy ir was not allowing people to "learn" the codes into their universal remotes. please let us know if it can learn it, as opposed to having the ir codes directly in the urc remote.

also, i've tried searching the manuals but there is no mention as to whether or not you can use the up and down buttons to simply jog the motor. specifically, im looking for the motor to lower the shade and stop when i take my hand off the button. the manual states that it is setup for 1 button press of up or down. hopefully that is not the only option, but please do let us know. thanks so much for your help.

Thanks Anthony. Funny you mention that because Ken from AV-Outlet emailed me that someone tried using codes from an IR database and had zero luck until buying the somfy remote and learning directly from it. My URC remote has a lot of Somfy code sets and if they don't work then I will start a netflix type model with 1 somfy remote. I will buy it then rent it out to others that just need it to learn the codes! :)

Check this manual: LT30IR (http://www.av-outlet.com/images/shade/LT30IR_RH.pdf)

In the section about up down and my - I assume after you set the limits the only way to do what you are saying would be hit the button for the direction you wanted to go and then quickly hit the stop button...?? I will test and report back but as far as a jog up and jog down...doesn't look like that is possible from the manual. I wish it said "quick taps of up or down jog the motor in those directions". instead of one tap to go to up limit and down limit.

Maybe I could create a macro on my URC controller to jog up and jog down with up/stop and down/stop rapid fire codes...hmmm.

Keep plugging away. Once you got it down, then we can tackle mine.

Bud

Sounds good Bud.

I have 2 options for installing the new motor.

1. I ordered 1.5 feet of somfy pipe with my order just to test the motor/ir integration before installing. I could add a flat vacuum cleaner belt over the test pipe and bottom aluminum tube and have a belt driven mask system.

Benefits: I could build a hush box if the motor is a little loud. Easy installation.

Cons: belt might slip??

2. Install in the top aluminum tube. Will need to add metal self tapping screws through the metal motor drive gear since my aluminum tube doesn't have the grooves like the somfy pipe.

Benefits: fully integrated

Cons: requires a little rework of the top roller to accommodate the somfy brackets.

i vote for #2. once setup, its zero maintenance and bullet proof. motor directly attached to the roller. the belt can, over time, loosen or shift, and thus not maintenance free. from all the reports i've read, the somfy is the quietest motor around and stewart and carada both use it for their masking systems.

Misc. update.

So I got the new Somfy motor and put together a bench test before installing. I have a URC MX-980 controller that has the Somfy IR codes. The codes work but only for up/down/stop.

According to the Somfy documentation - to program the limits (top, bottom, and my position) you have to send 2 IR codes together. Example - to program the top limit you have to move the shade to the limit and hit down and stop at the same time. This is where the issue comes in. Seems the URC remote will not send these 2 IR commands at the same time an therefore the motor does not learn the limits. I called and talked with Somfy support and they confirmed that this is indeed the case. The support rep told me to buy the Somfy remote and once the limits are programmed - I can use the URC remote to go to said limits.

While this sucks...I should have all of the new parts for the updated version of my masking system that I will get to put together this weekend. Pics and more updates on Saturday.

I might have missed it somewhere, but what material are you using to roll up and down for the masks?

Jason-

Planning my home theater and I've been in and out of your thread a dozen times. Quick question (that was probably already answered in one of the previous 25 pages). I think I read your finished dimensions were 12 x 28. What are your riser dimensions? How much aisle room do you have at either side? Trying to decide whethere my entrance will be in the front of the back. Front is easier because the door opens into space before the first row, but back would be nice also. My unfinished space is about 16 x25. Wondering if I can still squeeze the 3rd row barstools in with only 25 in length.

Misc. update.

So I got the new Somfy motor and put together a bench test before installing. I have a URC MX-980 controller that has the Somfy IR codes. The codes work but only for up/down/stop.

According to the Somfy documentation - to program the limits (top, bottom, and my position) you have to send 2 IR codes together. Example - to program the top limit you have to move the shade to the limit and hit down and stop at the same time. This is where the issue comes in. Seems the URC remote will not send these 2 IR commands at the same time an therefore the motor does not learn the limits. I called and talked with Somfy support and they confirmed that this is indeed the case. The support rep told me to buy the Somfy remote and once the limits are programmed - I can use the URC remote to go to said limits.

While this sucks...I should have all of the new parts for the updated version of my masking system that I will get to put together this weekend. Pics and more updates on Saturday.

i figured this would be the case. the remote is fairly cheap anyways, and you could sell it to me ;) once you're done. if i could ask you to try something when you get the remote that would be fantastic. im wondering if you would be able to save the "my preset" more than once into the urc remote. basically, have the presets for 2.35 learned into the somfy remote... send the signal to urc and save it as "position 1". then, erase the preset from the somfy remote, re-save it to a different position such as 1.85 and re-learn that command into the urc as "position 2"... and so on. i really dont see why that wouldn't work but if you could test that out for us you would be a saviour. we could essenitally save as many presets as we want if it ends up working.

also, did you find out anything in regrads to pressing the up/down button and having the motor work only when the button is engaged and stop immediately once you release the button (ie. jog feature)?

thanks jason.

I might have missed it somewhere, but what material are you using to roll up and down for the masks?

Joann Fabric
Black Premier Velvet
SKU# CIH J 9055674
This is very close to the Carada black velvet. Just a little nicer quality.


Jason-

Planning my home theater and I've been in and out of your thread a dozen times. Quick question (that was probably already answered in one of the previous 25 pages). I think I read your finished dimensions were 12 x 28. What are your riser dimensions? How much aisle room do you have at either side? Trying to decide whethere my entrance will be in the front of the back. Front is easier because the door opens into space before the first row, but back would be nice also. My unfinished space is about 16 x25. Wondering if I can still squeeze the 3rd row barstools in with only 25 in length.

You might be able to. My riser is 88 inches wide and built to accommodate 3 Berkline 088's at 86 inches wide. Aisle space is 26" on each side. I vote for the back. I can't seem to find or remember the length of the riser but can measure that tonight. I have a 12" step on the front that could be moved to a side since you have a wider room (lucky).

Yes - my finished dimensions are around 12x28.

i figured this would be the case. the remote is fairly cheap anyways, and you could sell it to me ;) once you're done. if i could ask you to try something when you get the remote that would be fantastic. im wondering if you would be able to save the "my preset" more than once into the urc remote. basically, have the presets for 2.35 learned into the somfy remote... send the signal to urc and save it as "position 1". then, erase the preset from the somfy remote, re-save it to a different position such as 1.85 and re-learn that command into the urc as "position 2"... and so on. i really dont see why that wouldn't work but if you could test that out for us you would be a saviour. we could essenitally save as many presets as we want if it ends up working.

also, did you find out anything in regrads to pressing the up/down button and having the motor work only when the button is engaged and stop immediately once you release the button (ie. jog feature)?

thanks jason.

Anthony. I thought of this as well and it doesn't work that way. The somfy onboard memory stores the limits (not sent via IR). So you can only have 3 limits. The somfy remote is necessary to set those limits. I think you will be good with just 3.

Open = 1:78:1
My = 1:85:1
Close = 2:35:1 and 2:40:1 (according to wikipedia these are the same)

2.35:1 35 mm anamorphic prior to 1970, used by CinemaScope ("'Scope") and early Panavision. The anamorphic standard has subtly changed so that modern anamorphic productions are actually 2.39,[1] but often referred to as 2.35 anyway, due to old convention. (Note that anamorphic refers to the compression of the image on film to maximize an area slightly taller than standard 4-perf Academy aperture, but presents the widest of aspect ratios.)

2.39:1 35 mm anamorphic from 1970 onwards. Sometimes rounded up to 2.40:1[1] Often commercially branded as Panavision format or 'Scope.

Jog seems possible with macro. I will know for sure on Saturday. Currently when I press up or down and let go the motor free spins for a second in those directions. This will go away once the limits are set. So once the motor learns the up limit - all brief taps of up will go to that limit.

great idea of the open, close and my the way you set them. i didn't think of that so essentially you have 3 presets for what you need. i think that should work for me as well, the last thing that remains to be seen is if jog works via macro. if it does, then off to the somfy i will go. let us know how it goes on saturday. impatiently awaiting!!!:D

Me too Anthony.

So here is the latest direction I am going in with the masking system. I bought this coil spring to go in the bottom tube to help roll the bottom mask back on the bottom tube when the masks are moving to the open position.

http://www.av-outlet.com/media/SAPE53R-L.jpg

Here is my latest render of the current direction I am going with the mask system this weekend. I also have a backup design in the event that this does not work...

The motor and spring will be inserted into the top and bottom tube but I am showing them outside of the tube for reference.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/newdesign.jpg

As the motor turns the top tube to deploy the top mask - it will pull the bottom mask up. This will build tension on the coil spring. Once the mask moves in the opposite direction - the coil spring (now under tension) will pull the bottom mask material back around the bottom tube.

Note: The pulleys I originally installed on the top tube are useless. I am only using them now to prevent the wire from going to the edge of the pipe.

That first sketch is basicly the way Carada do it with there Horizontal Masqurade But without the middle Roller,You just attach the ribbon to the top roller so it is on the back of the roller, opposite of the velvet that unrolls from the front of the roller..
So when the top masking goes down the ribbon rolls up thus pulls up the bottom masking "Straight edge" or rod that the ribbon is directly attached to: Note the ribbon is not attached to the bottom masking roller only the Bar/straight edge that the bottom masking fabric is attached to...

The top masking has no ribbon attached to the Straite edge, it just slides smoothly down the 2 (tefflon aided) side guides thanks to gravity...

Although I am sure they use the Somfy Sonesse 50(ir) motor...

Here is A quick sketch up to give you an Idea of what I mean..

Cheers...

Excellent. Thanks Cinema Mad. That is good to know and gives me confidence in my current plan for this weekend. Hopefully I will have a video to post by Sunday. Fingers crossed.

Jason,

I've been following your motorized masking construction and very impressed with your engineering abilities. I can't wait to see the final version. I have toyed around with the idea of rebuilding my screen as curved. Adding side masking is a strong possibility after seeing yours.

On another note, I looked and was not able to find a post of the final version of your closet DVD Rack. I have mine built but it still needs to be finished out. Once I get the kids Media Center built, I plan to get that button up. Any final pics to share?

Excellent. Thanks Cinema Mad. That is good to know and gives me confidence in my current plan for this weekend. Hopefully I will have a video to post by Sunday. Fingers crossed.Looking forward in seeing how it turns out mate...

It may need A little refinement to get it all working perfectly as with most things of similar nature, but there is no doubt you have the base core plan's sorted to build & improve upon which is the most important thing...

Cheers....

Hey Steve,

Thanks man. I think you should give it a try. Fun project for sure. I think side masking would be so much easier too than horizontal. Here is the final pic of my DVD rack. When I was building this originally - Netflix did not exist. That has slowed down me filling this thing up.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_4797.jpg

I have been watching your thread for the updates to the finished wet bar area and the new media room (which is on my to-do list as well) and think everything looks great. I might have to talk with you about the custom cabinets you are doing in more detail. I am interested in this approach for my media area. I have a 17' x 18' room that is going to probably end up as HT2.0/media room. Where it says family room below is actually a room in my house.

http://www.frankbetz.com/pimages/25ballardsec.gif

Cinema Mad - thanks man! I will get it completed one way or another but should turn out great in the end.

Masking update: Minor setback on the masking system this weekend. I got the wrong remote but the right one is on the way and I should be under way soon. I am going to add the spring to the bottom roller today and of course watch a lot of football.:)

Masking Is A Huge Success!!!!!!!!

Open:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/IMG_4801.jpg

Closed:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/IMG_4803.jpg

And Video... I took this with my crappy digital camera so it is louder than it is in person.
Also note that since my theater lights are on full there is a shadow being cast by the top mask over the screen. This is not the case when the lights are out.


<object width="445" height="364"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Cw2hyYgxHRA&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0&border=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Cw2hyYgxHRA&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0&border=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="445" height="364"></embed></object>

Also - I was afraid at first that the somfy motor was not powerful enough for this job. Seems that before the limits are set - this motor was struggling to get to the limits for some reason. Once I set the limits - the motor went into a different gear and works like a champ! I guess it moves slow before you set the limits so it does not damage the fabric??? Hmmm....

Left to do - I need to take off the speaker covers and paint the inside 2x6's black. I plan on doing that tomorrow. I also have one place to tighten up the fabric. Other than that - I need to spend some time teaching my URC controller all of the somfy codes and code some macros.

Jog is definitely possible with a up/stop and down/stop macro. I just need to see how fine tuned I can get the jog feature. I will play around with that the rest of the week.

Extra thanks goes out to Ken at AV-Outlet. He was a pleasure to work with and answered all of my questions about the Somfy motors/remote. If you get ready to DIY a masking system and want to use Somfy - I recommend him for your Somfy purchases.

:cool:

Oh sure... now it's done!

Seriously, good job, and good documentation. Time to play something loud! :)

Absolutely Awesome Job on the Horizontal masking Jason :) That Video says it ALL!!..

Just wondering Jase, Did you use the Guides at the Side like in my Sketch-up ?, so the Masking tracks straight and close to the Screen ...

Cheers mate....