Greetings! I have finally started my home theater construction thread and would like to take this time to personally thank everyone on this board who has helped me out with mine and others questions.

Ok - so I have a Nautical theme at my house so in keeping with the theme my theater is called "The Royal Fortune" after a famous pirate ship. Thanks again for all of the information and post here that helped me turn this project into a very enjoyable hobby.

On to the pics!

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/_RoyalFortune-vi.jpg

Here is a blueprint of the basement:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/basement-vii.jpg

Now that the theater is complete. Here are some final pics:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC192.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3304.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3328.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC159.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/IMG_3307.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/Theater_Pano.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/basement_pano.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/basement_pano2.jpg

My home theater is 28' long by 12' wide. I wish I had 2 more feet for the width but oh well. I lost a lot of my before pictures due to a hard drive crash but I have some that will give you an idea of the room before. One thing to note is that behind my stage I have a concrete wall that is 8 feet high and spans the entire wall. This should work out very well for sub placement.

Ok, more pictures:

Here is a shot of the stage filled with 1250 pounds of sand and the back wall drywalled:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC01-vi.jpg

You can't see it from the picture but I have a 3/4 inch pink insulation sheild all the way around the sides and back of the stage.

Here is a picture of the back of my riser with the begining of the bar attachment:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC02-vi.jpg

and another:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC03-vi.jpg

Please keep us informed with your progress and take/share lots of pictures with the forum.

I am a sucker for construction in-progress threads so I will be following along.

Best of luck!
T.Wells

Another picture of the snack bar:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC04-vi.jpg

and we all love those HVAC returns...right?

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC06-vi.jpg

I have a Nautical theme at my house so in keeping with the theme my theater is called "The Royal Fortune" after a famous pirate ship.

Darn it, I saw the thread title and was hoping it was going to be build with an Asian theme... (sounded like a Chinese Restaurant ...)

All mild disapointments aside (kidding of course), it looks good so far, and I like the angles on the sides of the snak bar. Good luck!

Here is a shot of the covered HVAC return with lots of screws and fastened against a double layer of HVAC foam tape.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC07-vi.jpg

I decided to build my own DVD/XBOX bookcase. While it is not fully trimed out and routed, here is a picture of it currently:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC08-vi.jpg

Here is a photo of the begining of the procenium construction. My original design was for a 4:3 screen but after reading and researching here, I am going to go with a 16:9 screen with horizontal masking for cinemascope.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC09-vi.jpg

Thanks T. Wells and Chirpie!

[Quote]Darn it, I saw the thread title and was hoping it was going to be build with an Asian theme... (sounded like a Chinese Restaurant ...)[\Quote]

I love chinese food!! Thanks chirpie.

Close-up of the stage. I really like the way this turned out. :)

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC10-vi.jpg

Here is a picture looking back from the stage to the riser. The speaker wires on the left hanging down by the column are to go outside to our deck.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC11-vi.jpg

Here is a close-up image of the riser. It will be filled with insulation blown in from the front and sides between the gap in the 2x6's. The riser is 15 inches high and will be home for 3 Black Berkline 088's. Another set of 3 Berklines will be about a foot and a half in front of the riser step.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC12-vi.jpg

Here is a picture of the media rack with insulation installed behind it.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC13-vi.jpg

Picture of the Linacoustic. That is a big roll.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC14-vi.jpg

And Lots of R30 for the ceiling.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC15-vi.jpg

Finishing up the snack bar

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC16-vi.jpg

Picture of first layer of r-30 in between my ceiling joist.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC17-vi.jpg

Hey man, looks good. About time you got this thread going!

Bud

Oh yeah! Linacoustic going up. Notice that my procenium at this point was going to be a 104" on diagonal 4:3 prior to the decision to go 16:9.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC18-vi.jpg

Shot of the back of the room with Linacoustic.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC19-vi.jpg

Snackbar mudded and ready for final sand and paint.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC20-vi.jpg

Thanks Bud. I am hoping that my theater looks as good as yours. I have learned a lot from you.

Pesky HVAC returns... :mad:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC21-vi.jpg

LOL. Ok - it looks crazy but here is the updated procenium with anticipation of a very big 114" on diagonal Carada screen. I am going to get my screen from Ben Harper. Thanks Ben. What can I say? I got greedy and wanted bigger. There is plenty of room on both sides for the Ascends that I am planning to buy after listening to them at Bud's house. I am going to put my center channel where the boom box is and will have 2 subs on either side of the center channel.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC22-vi.jpg

Hello Jo Ann's fabric batting. Let me just tell you that I NEVER thought I would ever darken the door of that place. I felt so weird in that store without my wife around.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC23-vi.jpg

Ok. I am putting up all of my linacoustic and batting first and then will add the firing strips once I finalize my decision on what I want to do. Right now the thinking is basemolding, chair rail molding, and crown. It is so easy to cut the linacoustic that I am not worried about having to retrofit the furing strips in later.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC24-vi.jpg

Batting on the other side.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC25-vi.jpg

Ok. That brings us to where I am right now...

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC26-vi.jpg

You can kinda see a cat5e cable hanging down near the stage. That will be for my IR repeater. Also all of my components will be in the room next to the theater. I will be adding a Graphic Eye system to my room for lighting control and plan to use the following equiptment:

Denon AVR 3806
Denon DVD 2910
New Ascend Speakers 7.2 with 2 HSU VTF-2 MK Subs
Phillips XG1 projector (out of production but still looks nice) Will upgrade later
HTPC - to be built at a later date
PlayStation 3
Xbox 360
2 rows of 088 Black Berklines
Power conditioner Brand and Model TBD
Amp(s) Brand and Model Numbers TBD
BuffalloElectronics for IR stuff

Plans for this weekend are to hang my projector mount, and finish the batting on the columns. I just got all of the basement doors delivered so this weekend I will be working on getting ready for more drywall delivery. I have ordered a drywall lift and anticipate it will be here by February.

Let me just tell you that I NEVER thought I would ever darken the door of that place. I felt so weird in that store without my wife around.

I hope you weren't dressed in drag again. :eek:

Bud

So are you installing carpet/fabric over the top of the linacoustic and batting?

Bud,

LOL! One lady asked me why I needed that much batting. I told her I was making an enormous blanket.

Josh - I will be installing GOM over the walls and procenium. Colors are still being determined.

Carpet will be installed over the floor, stage, and riser. Again, colors TBD.

Very nice! It is coming along nicely!

Thanks Big Worms!

all the photos are unavaiable???

Hey Jason,

I'm using the pay version of fotki since I've got so many pictures and would have exceed the limits. You may have some issues with imbedding the iamges here if you're using the free version. You might have to link people there or move to another service like imageshack. Fotki charges like 50.00 a year for unlimited storage.

Bud

Thanks Bud,

Yeah - I have exceeded my free bandwidth. I hope to have it corrected soon.

Bandwidth issue fixed. :rolleyes:

Got the projector mount up. Thanks Bud. It looks great and I am happy with it.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC31-vi.jpg

Got in my HDMI, DVI-D, and USB 2.0 cable and will run those tonight.

Man, I have got to move to GA. Impressive collection of rooms in the basement (HT + workshop + gym + storage)- - - looks like man-land.

Theater is coming along great. There are purists who lobby against chair rail in the h.t. (horizontal lines break up the immersion effect or something). I am not sure it makes a big difference if you are doing something other than a grey/black box.

Jason,

No way to get over to your place last weekend. My inlaws are now in town and between working on the screen wall and them being here, my time is a little stretched. Looking good. What's the deal with the ceiling, are you going to drywall that soon?

Bud

GREAT project, That snack bar looks kind of like mine, What are you planning for a top?

If you have any of the Linacoustic left you may want to think about lining the walls of that air return if you have any noise issues.

I bought and sold a drywall lift for my basement project. When you start using it you are going to find out how easy it is to use to do a ceiling.

Only problem is it needs to roll around and you are going to really hate yourself for putting in the stage, riser and bar. Time to call in some favors with your buddy's, you'll need to do that room mostly by hand.

Bud,

I ordered the drywall lift and it should be here very soon. I might wait until the rest of the basement is drywalled to complete it though...just in case anything comes up.

BigMouth. Thanks! - I admit I borrowed the design from you. I plan on using the same corian countertop that I have in the kitchen upstairs. I will post a picture tonight. Great idea with the linacoustic. I will have the perfect size strips when I cut out the LA for the chair rail I am going to put in.

Man, I have got to move to GA. Impressive collection of rooms in the basement (HT + workshop + gym + storage)- - - looks like man-land.

Theater is coming along great. There are purists who lobby against chair rail in the h.t. (horizontal lines break up the immersion effect or something). I am not sure it makes a big difference if you are doing something other than a grey/black box.

Hey Dave,

Thanks - basement is mine...wife gets the rest of the house. I decided to go ahead and use a chair rail so it will be easier to hide seams. Some would say I took the easy way out...I would probably just say the same thing. ;)

Jason

looking very good Jason. like the snack bar. what are you planning to install on the top of snackbar?

I built a gaming console / snack bar. like to put some sort of stone. I am told the zodiac or stilstone are more durable then granite, when it comes to large over hangs like 4 to 8 inches.

Larry

Great shots! Noticed you have component cables from Blue Jeans Cable. Because of their long necks, did you have any trouble getting it though the center of the mount and into the back of the projector?

larryep,

Thank you. I think I am going to go with corian for the snackbar. I have it upstairs in the kitchen and was going to post a picture but my comcast cable was out last night!! I am about to leave work and will see if I can post it tonight. I am not 100% set on it so maybe I will wait and take a look at your bar when you finish it. You theater looks awesome by the way.

flyNavy,

Thank you. You are correct about the blue jean component cables. They are AWESOME. I will be feeding all cables through a hole 1 inch behind the projector mount as it would be VERY difficult once the ceiling was drywalled to get the cables out of the way to remove the projector. That was just temporary but I didn't have a problem getting the cables through. I will try to post some more pictures tonight.

P.S. - I love F-14 tomcats too. I have a scratch built R/C one that will use twin induction fans but won't be ready until this spring. Right now all of my money is tied up in HT.

flyNavy,

Thank you. You are correct about the blue jean component cables. They are AWESOME. I will be feeding all cables through a hole 1 inch behind the projector mount as it would be VERY difficult once the ceiling was drywalled to get the cables out of the way to remove the projector. That was just temporary but I didn't have a problem getting the cables through. I will try to post some more pictures tonight.

P.S. - I love F-14 tomcats too. I have a scratch built R/C one that will use twin induction fans but won't be ready until this spring. Right now all of my money is tied up in HT.
Roger that on Blue Jeans Cable. I've purchased everything from them so far. Too bad they don't make optical.

Anyhow, look forward to your new pics. This is going to be a great forum to follow as I'm sure you've figured out from the hits.

Sounds like you have an awesome bird taking a back seat to your HT!!! :cool:

Here is the final projector wiring:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC33-vi.jpg

This is a shot of the archway's that I am constructing as you come down the stairs into the basement. I completed the first one and now just need to build the second one on the other side. The builders here drywalled all the way down the basement stairs which was nice but I am adding the arches so that it will match the upstairs.
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC39-vi.jpg

Any updates from the weekend?

Bud

Hey Bud,

Nothing that exciting. I was finishing the basement bathroom. I installed a can light and new fan unit, hung all the drywall, noticed lots of out of square corners (not too bad though), hung the bathroom side of the door, put up some crown molding, and started mudding/taping. I will try to snap some more updated pics tonight and post one or two tomorrow.

Click here (http://public.fotki.com/JikkJack/royal_fortune/page3.html) to see some weekend construction pics of the bathroom.

I am still trying to decide color of theater and furing strip locations. In the meantime, this week I am working on building the second archway and finishing the bathroom.

Hey man, speak for yourself, I'd be exicted by that ... doesn't take much!

Bud

Thanks Bud. I enjoy it but not as much as working on the theater!!

Here are a couple of pics of the bathroom in progress.


Door hung after drywall. Inside of door nailed into place - outside temp install not nailed into place. Just wanted to keep the frame out of the way. I should start a poll to see "how many times you think I walked on that piece of drywall before it was cut and hung???" LOL! :D
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSCbr2.jpg

Here is a picture of the first coat of mud...I am trying out that LOW DUST mud from HD. Seems to apply better in my opinion so I REALLY HOPE it is truely low dust. I am keeping the coats thin just to be safe.
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSCbr1.jpg

Here is the final projector wiring:
http://www.addiespond.org/images/DSC33-vi.jpg

jikkjack,

Your theater is really coming along. And you have Buds help too? Bud, time to start the side business ;)

Had a quick question for you. Looks like you have Component, HDMI and VGA going to the projector -- is that right? I'm still contemplating if I should also run a S-Video or Composite. I do plan to run (2) CAT5s -- one for serial control (future) and one for IR.

Just wanted to know exactly what you plan to run (or have run) to your projector.

hey swithey,

I have component, HDMI, DVI-D, and 2 Cat5s (that are not visible in this picture) run to the projector. I don't think I am going to run S-video, composite, or VGA to my projector.

I am going to use component with that phillips projector and have all of the other cables there for a future projector upgrade. I got the phillips projector about a year ago at such a good deal that I couldn't say no. The attachement you see is a M1DA component attachment. Unfortunately, this projector only has 1 M1DA and 1 S-video connection.

Bud and I live close to each other and he sold me the peerless mount in that picture. I have asked him a lot of questions and he has been very helpful. If my theater and basement turn out as good as his when I am done, I will be very happy.

Jason

hey swithey,

I have component, HDMI, DVI-D, and 2 Cat5s (that are not visible in this picture) run to the projector. I don't think I am going to run S-video, composite, or VGA to my projector.
Thanks for the info. Why are you running DVI and HDMI? I would assume any "future" projector would have HDMI only. And, it appears based on what you wrote that the current model only has component. Just wondering.

Might be a stupid question, but what are the Cat 5 cables for?

swithey,
DVI-D cable is just to be safe. When I go to upgrade my projector, just in case the one I select does not have HDMI, I thought it would be a good idea to just put everything digital I could up there. Just checked in on your construction thread and your theater is looking great!


Rahl,
One is for IR and the other is just in case something new comes out that I haven't thought about.

Looks great! Couple questions:

- WHy mount the projector before drywalling the ceiling?

- What lumber did you use to get a curved front on the stage.

Ahh, thinking ahead. Gotcha.

I didn't realize that IR used Cat 5. Learn something new everyday.

I love the arches by the way.

Looks great! Couple questions:

- WHy mount the projector before drywalling the ceiling?

- What lumber did you use to get a curved front on the stage.

Hey Mark. Thanks!

I mounted the projector because I wanted to make sure that the location would work with the screen size I have picked out. I used projectorcentral.com to get the measurements, but wanted to just be sure. The mount you see is very cool. It actually has one thumb screw that will allow me to take the entire projector down and just cut a hole in the drywall to install around the base. Then I can just reattach and I know the angle/distance/and size will be perfect. Mount is universal by Peerless.

I used MDF at 1/2" thickness on the front of my stage. MDF is strong and flexible that allowed me to *wrap* it into place. It is two pieces that meet in the center of the stage and attach to 2x4's measured to form the arch.

Thanks Rahl! Stay tuned. I have another arch to build. I just finished hanging another door in the media room and painted the proscenium. I will have pictures soon.

Cool. Definitely want to see how you drywall those bad boys. I plan on doing arches for alcoves on the side walls in my theater. 2 on each side like this but smaller and with columns.

http://www.theaterrooms.com/images/Boman/Boman%20Theater%20017.jpg

Proscenium now black.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC43.jpg

Media Room gets a new door.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC42.jpg

Outside of bathroom complete.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC44.jpg

By the end of the weekend I hope to have the other arch complete and more drywall up.

Archways completed. Will begin drywalling them tonight. :D

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC45.jpg

Not too much work in the basement this weekend due to superbowl and work schedule.

What, no updates? You think you're going to tease us and throw us aside like some cheap broad? LOL...

Bud

Hey Bud,

No. I have been sick... Better now and hope to have more updates soon. This weekend I am working on the footers for my deck extention.

Didn't realize you were sick. Glad you're feeling better!

Bud

Thanks Bud.

Thanks Bud,

So - I think I have reconsidered the use of chair rail. I have also changed my mind on colors. I found this image and think i will do something very similar to it but have a completely black ceiling and less panels.

http://www.addiespond.org/images/100a.jpg
jikkjack,

I like that look a lot. In fact, so much that my theater will have a similar feel. I will also be going with "less" panels too -- just a single panel from left to right by 4 stacked vertically with maple columns in between. I originally was planning to do 5 high but though it was too busy. Can't wait to see yours done!

swithey - thanks dude. Can't wait to see how it comes out. I am thinking about using 2 or 3 panels top to bottom. I am buying my furring strips this weekend and plan to cut them into my accoustical treatments. more pictures soon.

Ok. Well, I have made some progress. I finally got my drywall lift in and started hanging the drywall on the ceiling in the home theater room. I have been really busy lately and hope I can start working more in the basement this week and next weekend.

Here are some pictures of the lift and ceiling. Man this thing rocks!!
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC46.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC49.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC51.jpg

I have finally decided on my sconce that I am going to use. They are not as fancy as my last selection but it will work better with the design goal of the theater. These sconces are ceramic and I am going to paint them to match the columns.
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC47.jpg

I put up furing strips under the sconces. I haven't tackeled the furing strips on the walls yet but should have them in by the end of this weekend coming up after I finish the drywall, mud/tape, and painting.

Here is where I cut off tonight. I have only 12'x55.5" left to drywal in the theater. I will finish this up tomorrow night.
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC53.jpg


More pictures soon. :)

I have to ask...I notice that you (and even others) have your project in your work area. Is that getting all covered with Drywall dust?

Nah. I actually take the projector down during construction. I have a masive shop vac that takes care of most of the dust. I use the score and crack method for drywall, so most ends up on the floor but some does get in the air. I also am using a dustless mud that is very nice. In combination with my shop vac, it really seems to control the airborn particles very well.

Finished the ceiling and now time to clean up then mud/tape/paint.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC54.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC55.jpg

More pics soon.

Hey man, looking good. Love the scones. So, wasn't that lift the smartest thing you did?

Bud

Looking good. Question is that going to be your final size of the columns? And where are the surrounds going to go?

Bud,

Yes - the lift was definately the way to go. It only cost 240 bucks on ebay delivered. I can't wait to start the furing strips this weekend.

Big Worms - yeah. That is the final size of my columns. I am going to expose my surround speakers. I didn't have the width to hide the surrounds in the columns.

Bud,

Yes - the lift was definately the way to go. It only cost 240 bucks on ebay delivered. I can't wait to start the furing strips this weekend.

Big Worms - yeah. That is the final size of my columns. I am going to expose my surround speakers. I didn't have the width to hide the surrounds in the columns.

Looking Good!

Why did you buy a lift when you can rent one from Home Depot or any tool renting company for $32 a day?

Ruben

Looking Good!

Why did you buy a lift when you can rent one from Home Depot or any tool renting company for $32 a day?

Ruben
That would work great if you could finish it in a day or two. But if you buy one through ebay you can take your time and easily turn around and sell it. So it works out cheaper. Just my .02

Ruben,

I used mine for about 6 weeks, did the whole basement. I priced it out and between lugging it back and forth on the off days and having it there when I started, it was well, worth it. After six weeks, I sold it for about half price. I used mine for all the upper walls and ceiling. I think Jason split the lift with his neighbor as well.

Bud

Bud,
Big Worms - yeah. That is the final size of my columns. I am going to expose my surround speakers. I didn't have the width to hide the surrounds in the columns.
Cool. Really anxious to see how this turns out.

Thanks Big Worms!

Ruben - Bud is right. I actually split the cost with a neighbor and we are going to sell it on ebay or here on avs when we are both done with it. It is going to take me a couple of months to finish all of the drywall in the basement becauseI am also doing a huge deck extension and completely overhauling my backyard landscaping. If not, I definately would have rented it.

More pictures and updates. I mudded/tapped/and sanded the ceiling.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC57.jpg

Next, I added my faux columns in the back of the room -
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC59.jpg

Primed the ceiling and it looks so good I might not paint it...
Entering Theater:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC60.jpg

Front of Theater:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC62.jpg

Rear of Theater:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC61.jpg

Hey, I would have lent you my stilts if you needed them! That's the primer? Looks great. I think I'm taking a ride to Bennie Moore's this week as well.

Bud

Note to anyone that is new to drywall. Use a primer. It is very important to cover the mud on the ceiling and make a uniform coating on the surface to be painted. I leaned this the hard way in my last house. If you don't prime and are using a dark color you will see a distinct color difference over the mudded areas and non-mudded areas.

Other misc. updates -- I finished the drywall on the inside of my archways in the stairway and applied the first coat of mud. I am going to wait and drywall the rest of the archways out this weekend and then sand and apply the final mud coating to archways.

Going towards the bathroom in basement:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC63.jpg

Going towards the theater in basement:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC64.jpg

I also framed out the HVAC pipe in the hallway before the bathroom and wine cellar.
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC65.jpg

I am planning on putting a cap on the current light bulb location and running a wire down to a newly added box for a sconce in this bathroom hallway due to the HVAC box.
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC66.jpg

That's it for now. I am about to pick up my door for the theater and begin cutting in the furring strips around the room. :D

Thanks Bud!! I might need them for the rest of the basement. I had a sore neck for 2 days after the HT room. I know a lot of people hate home depot ralph lauren paint, but I have always used and really liked the way that paint looks. So what you see in the pics above is just the RL primer with a deep black/grey tint. I haven't use BM but I hear LOTS of great things about that paint.

jikkjack,

Great job on the drywall. I have never done it myself so I can only be in awe by all the guys that have done it themselves (including yourself).

Steve,

Thanks man. You are not missing anything. It is fun to hang, mud and tape - but sanding is a b!*&H. The new drywall mud at home depot in a grey container with blue top has dust control...or so it says. I really like the stuff because it is smoother than normal drywall mud and goes on very nice. That is the only reason I didn't hire out the sanding part of the job and why it is taking me longer. I am doing lots of light coats to cut down on sanding requirements.

Jason

Finished the bathroom hallway this weekend, arches, and theater lobby. Also got some more of the media room drywalled and finished up running electrical to wine room. Here are some pics of the main things I wanted to finish this weekend.

Bathroom hallway:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC70.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC67.jpg

Arches:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC72.jpg

Theater Lobby:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC73.jpg

This week - I will mud and tape all of this and hopefully get more drywall up...

looking nice jikkjack!!!

Thanks Larry! I can't wait to start working on the theater again, but I have to finish more drywall and mudding first. It really takes a lot of time to drywall by yourself no matter how fast you think you are able to do something.

Updates -

I have been working on drywalling the entire basement. PAIN IN THE A$$. I am almost done though so I can see the light at the end of the tunnel (finally!!! :) ). I had a small side project that consumed June and I still have a couple of finishing touches to complete. My wife and I hated our small deck on the back of the house, so she asked me to *fix the deck*. I asked her if she knew what she was asking for...and she said yes. ;) ;) :D :D

Here is how I fixed it: http://public.fotki.com/JikkJack/deck_pics/

So after a deck project and stupid drywalling. I am finally getting back around to the theater. I went over and picked up my 114" Carada screen and Denon AVR 3806 from Ben Harper (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/member.php?userid=46937) last night and had an blast chatting with him about HTs. Ben knows his stuff and has great prices!! I am going to buy all my HT stuff through him.

I should have more pictures by the end of the weekend and hopefully I am finally back on track to continue working on my Theater. ;)

Jason

This weekend I put together my screen:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC74.jpg

And hung it up so that I could finalize and adjust my projector.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC75.jpg

I really like the look and picture quality of the Carada Screen. The wife was taking pictures and in this shot the screen was a little off to the right. Anyhow, I fixed that and got the projector hung and dialed in. Now as soon as I can get the last room mudded/taped I can get the floor company in to carpet this room and the rest of the basement.

Ok - So I deliberately have been holding out on finalizing the furring strips in my theater because I have been thinking about the final design of the room for some time. I found a really nice picture on the internet of a theater and have finalized my decision and will proceed in finishing out my theater to look like this:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/theater.jpg

I have a lot of staining ahead of me but at least my GOM order will be very easy!! :D

Ok - So I deliberately have been holding out on finalizing the furring strips in my theater because I have been thinking about the final design of the room for some time. I found a really nice picture on the internet of a theater and have finalized my decision and will proceed in finishing out my theater to look like this:

http://addiespond.org/images/theater.jpg

I have a lot of staining ahead of me but at least my GOM order will be very easy!! :D
I love the look of that theater. Yes -- you will be staining until the cows come home but it will all be worth it. My HT has a bunch of stained wood too and it did take some time to get them done right. However, in the end, it will be well worth it -- I guarantee!!

Thanks Steve. I really like the way your theater is looking too! I can't wait to see how that star ceiling comes out.

Jason

Looking good!

The screen looks very good. How much room you have for your speakers on the sides?

It's looking nice keep up the good work. Oh on the drywall lift, I wish I had bought one, considering I've rented one enough to pay for it already :) and still have two rooms left to do in the basement.

Thanks Big Worms. Although it doesn't look it...I have 13" on each side for speakers. I am planning on using Ascend CMT-340 SE's on both sides currently but that might change.

Don - Yep. That is why I went ahead and got one. I knew for a fact that I would need it for a prolonged period of time. My wife is always telling me that my time estimates for things are always off by about 5 hours...

My wife is always telling me that my time estimates for things are always off by about 5 hours...

:D Hehehehe. Mine has learned to take my time estimates and multiply of five to adjust for "Michael numbers." Nothing ever is as quick as one thinks/hopes. :)

So last night I picked up and installed my solid door for the theater. Here is a picture looking at it from the base of the stairs.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC76.jpg

and this is what it looks like from inside the room. If you look hard you can also see the insteon dimmers in this picture. I REALLY like the insteon products. They are very nice.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC77.jpg

I will have a decision to make in the future. The first option I have is to remove the prefab casing and replace with a nicer casing on the inside that will match the rest of the wood in the room. I will call that Option A.

Option B would be to remove the casing and just blend the door into the rest of the room by adding furing strips to the door and surrounding jam that gets covered with batting/linacoustic/GOM. Then once the door is closed it will disappear... :)

What do you guys think?

Here is another shot of the new door from the front of the room. You can see in this picture that I have filled a low spot on the ceiling and sanded it. I will re-prime that area this weekend and finally paint the ceiling flat black.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC78.jpg

Option A. I know a lot pf people like the hidden look and it may help the room acoustically, but if you're going to do a lot of stained trim in there anyway, it'll be consistent. I'm partial to the stained, rich feel.

Bud

Well, I did a mix of Option A and B. My door is not paneled but flat. I did this so I could put GOM panels on the door with the insulshield on the bottom and batting on the top. But I did replace the casing with nicer casing and stained it like the rest of the wood in the room. Between the columns, chair rail, crown and floor molding there is plently of wood in the room and the door itself just kind of disappears into the wall as it looks like another GOM section betwen the columns. So I guess I vote for option A in your case.

Im just now subscribing to your thread and it looks like your doing a great job!

I love the look of the "finnished" theater...its very classy and dignified. I will certainly be adding your thread to my daily routine now.

Robert

Thanks rsberg34! Thanks China and Joe for the feedback. Bud - I might need your contact for getting some stain grade wood trim and crown for the room.

Jason,

Here is where I got the stain grade stuff.

http://mouldingsunlimited.com/

Bud

Couple of updates on my full basement/HT construction progress...

First, I have only 1 ceiling left to do and I will be over the drywall/mud/tape/sand/prime hump and can get the flooring put in the entire basement. I can't wait. Once this happens, I can dedicate 100% of my time to completing my HT.

Here is an updated shot of the wine cellar. You can see it is primed and ready for painting and then I will put in all of the wood and truely finish this room.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC79.jpg

Next the hallway moving from the wine cellar towards the new archways at the end of the stairs. Primed and ready for paint. The bathroom to the right is also primed and ready for paint but I really don't like bathrooms much so I will leave that picture out.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune//DSC80.jpg

Here is an updated shot of the primed archways moving towards the HT. I am very pleased with how these came out considering it is my first attempt at archway construction.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC81.jpg

and another

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC82.jpg

and the reverse angle from the HT back towards the hallway to the bathroom and wine cellar.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC83.jpg

Nice job on those arches. Whole project looks like its coming along nicely.

HT updates...

I finally got my new all black metal trims for my cans in the HT room. These things are great because once you put the ceramic base of the light into the top of the continuous air tight trim - the light is sealed and no painting!! There is a heavy foam ring at the top where the light is clipped into place.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC84.jpg

I tested one and am very happy with the way they look.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC85.jpg

More pics this weekend - I have finished all of the furring along the top of the HT room and will be painting my ceiling flat black and installing all trims. I will also complete painting the entire HT side of the basement and hope to have my media rack painted and trimmed out too. :D

Looking good. I'll try and stop by this weekend...


Bud

Bud - sounds good.

Great thread Jack. Please post a link to where you got your can trims.

http://addiespond.org/images/DSC81.jpg
Nice looking arch. I have a new respect for the amount of time it takes to make one of those. I still need to drywall mine - that should be fun.

Jason,

When you get ready for a trim run, let me know, I'll take a ride up there with you. Besides, you might want to hang the trim out of the back of my truck versus trailoring it with your Jeep.

Bud

I ordered my speaker interconnect cables yesterday from BlueJean Cables. I was very pleased with the Component Cable I ordered from them a while back and the quality is fantastic so I decided to order the interconnects from them too. Not only do these people have a great product, I wanted to customize my order an they were very happy to oblige, pleasant, and cooporative. They proactively emailed me to check and make sure that I was getting exactly what I wanted and even gave me the option to select my boot colors. I don't know about you but this is the BEST customer service I have received in a very loooong time. Hat's off to BlueJean for such a pleasant online shopping experience. Thanks Alan.

Jason

@ flyNavy - Thanks - I special ordered them from Lowes.

@ Steve - You are not kidding. I told the wife that it would only take 1 hour to frame out both of them. LOL 4 hours later - I was done with the first one. Good news is that the second one only took 2 hours.

@ Bud - Will do. I will get your opinion this weekend on some trim ideas I am kicking around. I will even see if we can coordinate with Chris and head over to his shop with the portal and let him drill the holes too. I will call you l8r tonight to let you know.

How high up does your Lin go on the walls 44"?? You theater is about the same size as mine 30' x 13'. You on the other hand have a better ceiling height mines only 7.5' under the soffits which are each 4' wide the center 5' is 8'.

Also did you use 16 oz batting or double up on 8 oz?

This weekend I put together my screen:

http://addiespond.org/images/DSC74.JPG

And hung it up so that I could finalize and adjust my projector.

http://addiespond.org/images/DSC75.JPG

I really like the look and picture quality of the Carada Screen. The wife was taking pictures and in this shot the screen was a little off to the right. Anyhow, I fixed that and got the projector hung and dialed in. Now as soon as I can get the last room mudded/taped I can get the floor company in to carpet this room and the rest of the basement.

Cool theater! What is the size of your screen? It's because, the area in my basement for the ht is also 12 ft wide. I was hoping for more width but I couldn't find anymore area. :(

Hey Don - My Lin goes up 47.5" as I used a 2x4 on its side when origially putting it up. The reason for that was planning for the furring strip to be used on the bottom. I will also be cutting in firring strips through the middle so in the end it will be around 42" high from floor.

I wish I could have done soffits...

I used the 1" thick batting (which I believe is the 16oz.)

Hey v1rtu0s1ty - I have a Carada 114" diagonal screen.

# Aspect Ratio 1.78 to 1
# Viewing Surface Dimensions 99.4 inches wide by 55.9 inches high
# Outside Frame Dimensions 103.5 inches wide by 60 inches high

I really like it. The picture quality is fantastic! I was blown away by the difference in picture from just shooting on a white wall to shooting onto this screen.

I have around 13" on each side of the screen for speakers and I will be putting my center channel under the screen.

Thanks for the nice words.

Jason

Ascend Speakers Update...

I ordered my speakers this week and received an email from Ascend that says due to popularity of the speakers that they are on back order for a couple of weeks. I fully understand why because these speakers are awesome! I heard them over at Bud's house (Chinadog) and was sold on them.

Here is my speaker order for my HT:

LCR = CMT-340 SE
1st Surround pr = CBM-170 SE
2nd surround pr = CBM-170 SE
Subwoofer = HSU VTF-3 MK2

Jason

Thank you I figured it would be about 42" or so I also plan to put a backer strip for Chair rail not sure I will put some up but you never know. I didn't realize Linacoustic was black that's a bonus.

Ascend Speakers Update...

I ordered my speakers this week and received an email from Ascend that says due to popularity of the speakers that they are on back order for a couple of weeks. I fully understand why because these speakers are awesome! I heard them over at Bud's house (Chinadog) and was sold on them.

Here is my speaker order for my HT:

LCR = CMT-340 SE
1st Surround pr = CBM-170 SE
2nd surround pr = CBM-170 SE
Subwoofer = HSU VTF-3 MK2

Jason
That's going to be a rock'n setup. You should be very happy with those speakers and that sub is awesome!

Yup. That's a pretty tough setup to beat for the money IMO. And, the Ascends and the HSU seem to blend together very well.

Bryan

Thanks Steve and Bryan. Hey Bryan - As soon as my carpet is installed (hopefully in a couple of weeks now) and the ascends come in - I will be contacting you. I want to make sure the room acoustics are ironed out before putting up the fabric.

Nice theater, Jack. My dims are similar with me having about 12'8" after drywall and linacoustic go up. I was going to do a proscenium that came out into the room more on the sides than the screen, but I'm already depth challenged for two rows at an even 20', so I think I'll do mine like yours and make it even all the way across. If I give myself about 28" behind the screen for speaks and subs I should be able to do it with the first row at about 11' from the screen and the back row close to the rear columns. Plus, I just like the clean look of that screen wall. Just need to figure out a way to do it in three parts so the side panels can come off for access.

Sounds good. Give me a shout when you're ready.

Bryan

Eddie - I am planning on using industrial strength velcro from the local HD for my panels.

More stuff arriving and more updates.

Got in my TrippLite surge protector, bluejean interconnects, smart home ir controller, and bluejean banana plugs (not pictured but in the white box).

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC88.jpg

Started painting the basement - I still have a lot of painting to complete but this will give an idea of the color.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC91.jpg

I also finished cutting and routing my trim for the dvd bookcase and primed the top of the shelves. The trim is just set in place for the picture and will be painted and attached after I prime and paint the rest of the bookcase.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC92.jpg

Noticed in one of your photos above that you've got a ton of cables coming though the blue electrical boxes. Did you just drill holes into the back or did they all fit through the slots you can punch through?

Also, what plate covers do you plan to use for them?

fly - i originally ran all of my cables without using a pipe but before I closed up the media room wall retrofit in a PVC pipe that terminates into the back of the round blue sconce electrical box that I removed the back of. I am planning on using a blank round plate that I am going to drill a hole in and feed each wire through. I am then going to put all wires into some sort of black flexible tubing that should help clean up the appearance a bit.

Finally. After lots of hard work and effort, I have completed the biggest hump in my basement finishing job. The drywalling effort is now complete!! :D

Now, back to the home theater for me. I painted the ceiling this weekend, installed the new black metal trims, and put in the top furring strip around the room.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC100.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC101.jpg

I am planning to continue the furring strips this week along with lots of painting.

More pics soon.

Last weekend I finished painting minus a few minor touch-up spots. I also was able to hook up the Buffalo Electronics IR Repeater system and used an old Sony DVD player to test. I am very happy with the BE products. I did have ONE dead flasher that about gave me a heart attack since of course it was the first one I selected to test the system. But the other 3 work perfectly so A+ for this repeater system.

Other misc. updates - I finished building all of my speaker wires, painting all of the audio plates, and am getting ready to take delivery of my new Ascends this Thursday!!!

Tonight I am going to HD to pick up lots of wood for furring strips, and stain grade birch to begin the fun job of staining. I will also be entertaining pricing quotes this week from a few floor companies for the carpet to put in the theater. I should be getting in some samples tomorrow or Thursday and I will post to get some opinions.

Plan for this weekend is to install all of my new laminate wood flooring. Should be fun and the wife is excited about helping. We will see how long that excitement lasts. My bet is for maybe 30 minutes. :D

;) You'll definitely appreciate having them.

Thanks for the tip Keith. I will pick those up tonight as well.

I would say getting a new toy for furring strips in the home theater is not a bad start...

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC115.jpg



:)

and then the icing on the cake


Getting My SPEAKERS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC113.jpg

with a monster sub... :D :D :D :D :D :D

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC114.jpg

I am off to the basement to start furring strips.

Hey, that's not a toy, that's a darned nice TOOL. :D
Hope you have an extremely productive weekend!!

nice speakers jikkjack

don't hook those bad boys up yet, you will never get the theater done.

larry

Yep, nice saw. It's hard to find a saw with those features at 2x the cost.

I think you're already going to do this but STAIN THE TRIM BEFORE INSTALLING (both sides). Staining in place is a nightmare.

[QUOTE]STAIN THE TRIM BEFORE INSTALLING (both sides).

Why both sides?

[QUOTE]STAIN THE TRIM BEFORE INSTALLING (both sides).

Why both sides?

I've heard that if you only stain one side, the wood absorbs water at different rates on each side and can warp.

Thanks guys and thanks for the tips on stain. I was planning to stain before install but not both sides so that is good to know.

Just when I thought I would finally finish my furring strips...the wife and I decided to utilize this weekend to install our flooring instead. :eek:

So, I got to use the new saw a lot between yesterday and today and have finished the majority of the new floors. I will post pics later.

My carpet is going to be installed either this coming saturday - the 9th - or on Monday the 11th. I am keeping my fingers crossed for the 9th.

This week I should be able to finish up the furring strips (LOL) and hopefully have everything ready for the speaker install right after the carpet guys are done.

I have lots of new pictures and I will post them all a little later as I have lots of peeps coming over for a grill out tonight and lots of beer drinking.

:D :D :D

Here is one of the many new pictures...unfortunately, I can't upload the others right now but will later tonight.

This is a picture of the carpet that will be installed this weekend. It is called Old Brick. Unfortunately, the flash is washing out the real color and making it look lighter and duller than it really is. In person, the color is a dark brown/amber color with lighter amber brown in the middle of the diamond pattern. You can also see in this picture the black carpet that will be put on the stage and the soon to be gone concrete with ground in drywall dust. ;)

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC116.jpg

More pictures and updates.

So bad news on the carpet. They are going to need an additional 5 business days due to some reason...so the new date for the install is the 16th of this month. Then, when it rains - it pours. I called Comcast and they are out of High Def boxes for a month. I am on the schedule for October 5th. :mad:

On to the good news. Here are some new images. :D

Here is a picture of the new floors that my wife and I installed this past weekend. They are a nice Shaw brand laminate floor that are red oak natural. They match the real hardwoods upstairs perfectly and were very easy to install. I had 3 price quotes on professional installation...and oh my god what a scam. We completed everything for 20% of the lowest price quote.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC121.jpg

And I am finally working on the furring strips. I actually can't believe it. Here is the first section. You will notice that the top section is missing the two furring strips that will mirror the ones on the bottom. Each box will have a mitered stained piece of wood in it and then there will be a nice stained center molding that will go around the entire room.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC117.jpg

And a couple more pictures.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC118.jpg

In this picture you can see the print outs of the design I selected for the theater posted a couple pages back.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC119.jpg

This section is going to be interesting. The box is unfortunately going to cover an HVAC Return so I am going to do some creative wood working to incorporate this pannel with the return. I am going to add return horizontal cuts to the panel and mount the black return just to the right of the pannel. Once it is done, it should be seemless and not very noticable. Totally my fault for changing my original design.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC120.jpg

more pictures soon.

Where did you find that nice grommet through which all of you speaker cables exit the wall?

pathdoc - I built it myself. It is just a round carlon electrical box with a white blank that i cut a hole in the center of with a bit used for drilling door knob holes. :-)

I may use your idea. Where could I find one of these round electrical boxes and blanks?

Pathdoc - any big box store will have them. The round boxes are often used for installing ceiling mounted lights.

Carpet install now scheduled for September 22. :(

All of the Furing strips that can be installed are in...

Put together my new Audio Pier...

Couldn't resist the temptation... :o

Installed ALL Ascends...

Installed the HSU MONSTER...

Plugged everything up...

Inserted test DVD...

And???

And???
I second the "And???" !!!

He'd answer, but he had to change his underwear and smoke a cigarette... :eek:

Bud

It was freakin awesome!!! I can't wait to get the carpet in and do the audio calibration - but for now...I have already watched 4 movies in the HT and sampled over 20 movies.

This weekend - I am finishing all of the painting and cutting and installing all of the wood for the columns and inlays. That means I have to pull down the linacoustic and batting from each column and I am also going to move the back two columns out a little more due to the size of the 170's.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC123.jpg

Here is a picture of the front but with everything being black - it is hard to see the LCR and sub.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC122.jpg

HT looks great. Those Ascends are one hell of a speaker. I cannot wait to get my speakers built so I can sample the room as you did. :envious:

Thanks Swithey! You are in the same boat I was in. I had all of this cool stuff lying around and I had to wait for one reason or another. I kept telling myself that patience is a virtue until I finally decided that saying sux and the person that came up with it didn't have a bunch of cool home theater stuff waiting to be installed. ;-)

Happy Friday!!! Today...I am waiting for the carpet guys to show up. After they are finished with the install - I can finally run the room EQ program that came with my Denon AVR-3806. Anyone out there have this particular Receiver? Any tips/tricks?

The receiver came with a microphone that you put at ear level for each seat so it can optimally phase/match speaker levels in the room.

Happy Friday!!! Today...I am waiting for the carpet guys to show up. After they are finished with the install - I can finally run the room EQ program that came with my Denon AVR-3806. Anyone out there have this particular Receiver? Any tips/tricks?

The receiver came with a microphone that you put at ear level for each seat so it can optimally phase/match speaker levels in the room.

Don't you have to choose one location to equalize from?

So three hours later.. any carpet?

Bud

I waited on them on Tuesday and boy was it worth the wait. Came out great.

Jkkjack:

Looks nice!
Your build is very similar to mine, I almost went for the back row like yours too! I like the look...

I am currently on partial hold, some things going down, but hopefully on-track for that ultimate opening arouf the middle of December.....

Take care,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Carpet looks great!!! Pictures soon.

@foolsandkings - That is what I thought but this receiver has some kind of sophisticated calculation software built into it. You have to measure from each seat at ear level and then it does the rest.

@chinaclipper - Tom - Good luck with your build. I have been in construction for over a year now...mostly finishing the entire basement, not just theater. I am so glad that is behind me now. I only have to do minor touch-ups, painting touch-ups and hang the crown molding to be completely done with the basement but I am happy to be working on my HT once again.

@pathdoc - where are the pictures????

@Chinadog - making good progress over here. You will have to come over for beers soon to check it out.

Jason

Beers? Did you say beers?! I'll be right over!

Bud

Nice job! What are the finished inside dimensions of the room?

xnaron - the finished inside dimensions are 12'x26' with 2' behind the procenium for speakers/sub.

More pictures.

Ok - carpet guys did a great job. Here are a couple of pictures from this weekend.

This is the picture of the stairs. I know - not that exciting but have you ever seen a hand rail fashioned from a boat oar? ;)

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC124.jpg

Here is a shot of the media room. I still need to hang the crown molding.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC125.jpg

Here is a shot of the transition to the carpeted theater.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC126.jpg

and finally the carpeted theater!!! I can't wait to get the fabric up. Currently, I am staining all of the wood for this room and selecting a paint color for the bar. More pictures soon.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC127.jpg

Looks great! Came out really nice. I'm sure you're happy that's behind you.

Bud

On thing I just thought of---if I build a fake front wall about 24" in front of the actual wall for my screen and procenium, how do I get behind it to connect the speakers, etc.? Do you just remove an attached fabric panel and walk through?

On thing I just thought of---if I build a fake front wall about 24" in front of the actual wall for my screen and procenium, how do I get behind it to connect the speakers, etc.? Do you just remove an attached fabric panel and walk through?

Depends on how you attach your fabric. You could build removal panels or use something like Fabricmate track that makes it easy to remove it. What are you planning on for your screen? My 104" can be removed pretty easily, its completely open behind it.

Bud

Jason & Bud,

You guys have inspired me to start on my theater here in the next few weeks. Plan on doing everything myself except drywall as I've done that at my last two homes and realize I hate it.

So which one of you gentlemen is throwing the first HT meet? You're both about 6 miles in either direction from me so I don't care who volunteers first - just remember I prefer imported beer!

Ben

Depends on how you attach your fabric. You could build removal panels or use something like Fabricmate track that makes it easy to remove it. What are you planning on for your screen? My 104" can be removed pretty easily, its completely open behind it.

I'm planning on a fixed 110" (possibly smaller--waiting for CAD dimensions for the pitch of the roof) SilverStar. I guess I would hookup everything and then hang the screen last.

I have modified my idea for the front wall however. I think I will make the screen go all the way back to the front wall and build a shadow box on the sides and up from the short (4") riser.

If I plan on a 104" to 110" screen, 3 Berkline 088's in two rows, the back row on a 10" riser, what should be the distance from the bottom of the screen to the floor? The front row of seats will be about 11' from the screen.

I will have limited height even though I have a 8' ceiling. The pitchline of the roof is sharp and will force me to move the screen down to get a good width. I've attached a quick drawing...

SRHookEm - looks good. You need to determine a couple of things before making the decison on how far off the floor. You have to consider if you are going to have an acoustically transparent screen, if not - your center channel speaker can be positioned over the screen (ideal) or under the screen (ok like what Bud and I have) based on other criteria...like projector. Depending on the type of projector you have - some have to be lined up in the middle of the screen while others allow for lens shift and keystone correction.

Jason

Ben - Bud is done so I nominate him. I still have a lot to do. I can't wait to see your theater progress and congratulations on getting to start it!!

In the meantime - there is no reason that we can't all get together and drink beer and watch football. ;-)

SRHookEm - looks good. You need to determine a couple of things before making the decison on how far off the floor. You have to consider if you are going to have an acoustically transparent screen, if not - your center channel speaker can be positioned over the screen (ideal) or under the screen (ok like what Bud and I have) based on other criteria...like projector. Depending on the type of projector you have - some have to be lined up in the middle of the screen while others allow for lens shift and keystone correction.

Jason

OK, I always thought that under the screen would be best for the center. I will have plenty of room over the screen--it's just dead space that forms a triangle below the roof ridge and the top of the screen. Do I need to angle it downward towards the seats?

The screen will not be transparent. It will need to be high enough off the floor for my subs to fit into the curved shadowbox bottom. The sides will go on either side, the center above.

I will be using a Sharp XV-Z3000 DLP projector from 12' back. It will be mounted from a drop pole from the ceiling.

Do I want my eyeline in the center of the screen? With a 50" tall screen, that makes the approximate distance from the floor about 24". Right?

How high is your screen off the floor?

Ben - Bud is done so I nominate him. I still have a lot to do. I can't wait to see your theater progress and congratulations on getting to start it!!

In the meantime - there is no reason that we can't all get together and drink beer and watch football. ;-)

Ben, about damn time! I'll host a mini meet, but I don't have my barstools yet, may be a while (although I can grab a few from upstairs temporarily).

Bud

OK, I always thought that under the screen would be best for the center. I will have plenty of room over the screen--it's just dead space that forms a triangle below the roof ridge and the top of the screen. Do I need to angle it downward towards the seats?

The screen will not be transparent. It will need to be high enough off the floor for my subs to fit into the curved shadowbox bottom. The sides will go on either side, the center above.

I will be using a Sharp XV-Z3000 DLP projector from 12' back. It will be mounted from a drop pole from the ceiling.

Do I want my eyeline in the center of the screen? With a 50" tall screen, that makes the approximate distance from the floor about 24". Right?

How high is your screen off the floor?

Top is supposedly better, since the sound may be blocked by the first row. You'll want to angle it towards the listener, whether you place it on top or the bottom.

As far as the screen goes, they say bottom third of the screen for the front row, but its a person preference thing. Mine is 32" off the floor I believe. From the backrow, I'm about about half height of the screen. 24 is pretty low.

Bud

I went the opposite direction. I believe that my screen is about 10 inches away from the ceiling. I was forced to put my center channel under my screen due to my back row of seats and viewing angle from the second row.

If you look hard you can see my center channel is currently angled up with a scrap 1" furring strip. If you put your center above you will want to angle it down towards the center of the listening area.

Are you going to have a riser with second row of seats? If so - you can use the sticky at the top of this forum for riser height calculations. About halfway down - there is a visual calculator that will help you determine the viewing angles and riser height based on some basic measurements. I found this tool very helpful in planning out my screen height, seat locations, and riser height.

Also - go with 12' wide for the theater. Anything less and you will not be happy. I would consider that the minimum width of a theater with 3 088 berks if you wanted a isle on each side.

Also - go with 12' wide for the theater. Anything less and you will not be happy. I would consider that the minimum width of a theater with 3 088 berks if you wanted a isle on each side.

I hope I can. My attic space angles down from the ridge to the floor with no straight wall on either side. This means we must put in knee walls in from the sides. I don't know how to calculate the amount of space I will lose and how high they will be. I have a CAD artist working on the room now. I thought he should try 48" and 60" to see how that affects the aisle area. I'm sure that the slope will go over our head but it will it be high enough to walk around to sit?

Do you know how to calculate the distances I need? our pitch is steep--10/12 or 12/12.

Ben, about damn time! I'll host a mini meet, but I don't have my barstools yet, may be a while (although I can grab a few from upstairs temporarily).

Bud


Bud, I once attempted to drink a beer while NOT sitting on a bar stool and somehow came away unscathed. I know it's a small miracle, but it can be done!

Plus, don't those Berlines have cupholders? :D

Ben

Well, I can tell you that I've mastered beer consumption in all sorts of positions and I'll leave it at that. I can even show you my beer can stuck on the head trick, which honestly, I've never seen anyone else do before... :cool:

I'll pick a Saturday in October and go from there.

Bud

In the meantime - if you guys want to come over this Saturday for a beer...let me know.

Looking at granite lately for the snack bar in the back and have finalized on black granite.

This weekend will be filled with lots of wood staining. Hopefully by the end of the day Sunday - I will have completed staining and installing all of my columns. Fingers crossed.

Fabric should be here soon too! :)

staining takes a lot more time than I thought...here is a picture of some of the columns and inserts after a pre-coat of wood conditioner and 1 coat of stain. I still have to put two more coats of stain on and 1 or 2 coats of poly. I think I might be able to have them done by the end of this coming weekend. :o

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC128.jpg

staining takes a lot more time than I thought...here is a picture of some of the columns and inserts after a pre-coat of wood conditioner and 1 coat of stain. I still have to put two more coats of stain on and 1 or 2 coats of poly. I think I might be able to have them done by the end of this coming weekend. :o



Yes but it is going to look great when you are done! What kind of wood is that?

Thanks xnaron. It is birch wood. I should have the final coat of stain on tonight. Then tomorrow night I will put on the poly.

So which one of you gentlemen is throwing the first HT meet? You're both about 6 miles in either direction from me so I don't care who volunteers first - just remember I prefer imported beer!

Ben

Ben & Jason,

Figure on Sunday, 10/22 for a little gathering over at my place. Say 2:00 PM? Can do some burgers/dogs on the grill and have a few cold ones. Let me know if that works. I'm not calling it a meet, but if date/time works for you I might post in my thread and see if people want to come by.

Bud

and finally the carpeted theater!!! I can't wait to get the fabric up. Currently, I am staining all of the wood for this room and selecting a paint color for the bar. More pictures soon.

http://www.addiespond.org/images/DSC127.JPG
Your room is really coming together. I like the carpet color - it looks like a rusty red or is it more brown? Once you get that fabric on the walls, it will really give the room a "finished" look. Getting close!

Bud - Sounds good. I will be there.


Steve - it is a combo of dark brown and rusty red. More brown than red in person but definately more red than brown in pictures. Once the staining is done, then I really only have to hang the fabric and put up crown/base molding to be finished. I can't wait. Before I hang the fabric - I am going to get bpape to look over room accoustics. It sounds fantastic but I am sure there is probably room for improvement.

It's been a while since I checked your progress and I was just able to get caught up.

My heart about stopped when I saw you had the speakers mounted, and I thought "Well, that's it, he has gone and really done it now, he will never get finished!"

Congratulations on not falling into that trap, I know I would!!! :) The projector and speakers have to wait to the end for me, I wouldn't have had the self control you showed!

The stain looks great, did you have any issues with swirls or some areas soaking up too much stain? I tried to stain a solid pine 6 panel door and had a lot of problems.

I tried to stain a solid pine 6 panel door and had a lot of problems.

For soft wood like pine, you need to apply a pre-conditioner prior to the stain. Make s a huge difference. You can get conditioners for either water based or oil based stains. I used the water based ore-conditioner and stain. Very easy to clean up.

http://www.minwax.com/products/woodprep/index.cfm

Bud

Thanks nebrunner. Bud is right. I used a pre-stain conditioner and had no issues at all.

I just finished my 2nd coat of stain and everything looks great. I am pretty sure that the semi-gloss poly will darken the look some...but don't know how much. I can't decide at the moment if I need a 3rd coat of stain or not. I should know by tomorrow. I am going to give the 2nd coat overnight drying time to determine if I need a 3rd coat.

Theater should look very different by the end of this week. I should be able to get all of the columns installed (or at least that is the plan as of right now).

My high-def comcast box is scheduled to show up this thursday...I had to wait over a month to get a HD box.

After 3 coats of stain and 3 coats of semi-gloss poly - I am finally done with the columns and inserts. :D Here are a couple of shots with the column fronts installed. The sides will be black GOM wrapped pieces of wood to match the walls.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC129.jpg

In this shot, you can see the dark chocolate brown color I painted the bar.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC130.jpg

By the end of this weekend - I should have the base trim on the bar (painted same chocolate brown color) and will finally finish painting the back of the solid pine door black. I should also have the rest of my furring strips cut and installed. And...will be hiring Bpape to help me with room accoustics. Bryan - are you ready? :D

I will also be painting the sconces to resemble a hammered dark brown metal.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC131.jpg

Those columns look great! Painting the sconces brown should look great and blend well with the columns and bar.

When do you plan to start on the wall fabric?

The columns do look really nice. The sconces really set them off.

steve - I am waiting for the fabric to arrive and still need Bpape to help me with fine tuning accoustics before I close up the walls. I was just PM'd him but his PM quota has been exceeded...I don't know what he will recommend but I am assuming it could be to move this, tweek that, cover this, etc.

thanks zxlr8!

How did you attach the linocoustic and batting to the sheetrock? I always thought that strips had to go up first to hold it in. Did you just staple it on? The bottom edges of the batting look finished. Did you just cut the lengths you needed?

srhookem - all of my linacoustic is attached with drywall screws randomly spaced. I didn't need too many because utlimately the fabric will hold the linacoustic in place. I used staples for the batting - again randomly spaced and not too many. I think Bud used roofing nails (ones with the round plastic cap) to hold up his linacoustic. Ultimately the fabric will hold it so either would be fine.

I kicked around putting up furing strips first but found it easier to cut everything in instead of having to cut it to fit. Linacoustic cuts very easy with a sharp razorblade. I used a combination of holding the wood in place and chalklines to cut all furing strips into the linacoustic. I used a black sharpie marker to mark out where to cut the batting and used a very nice pair of fabric sissors for cutting the batting. I recomend this approach because it is easier in my opinion. I think it would have been much harder to measure and cut the batting and linacoustic on the ground but that is just me.

jikkjack, how are you planning to finish the sides of the wood columns (looks to be a few inches??) Will the fabric wrap up to them or will there be more wood there?

Ah - was wondering if anyone would ask that. I am going to install a black gom wrapped furring strip on each side that will velcro to the sides of the column. The purpose is to hide stapels down each furring strip on the walls where they meet the columns and to give it the floating effect. The oversized column fronts are each perfectly 1" overhang on each side just for this purpose. Hope that makes sense. I can post a picture if not.

Good news. I got through to BPape and hope to speak with him soon about the next steps.

srhookem - all of my linacoustic is attached with drywall screws randomly spaced. I didn't need too many because utlimately the fabric will hold the linacoustic in place. I used staples for the batting - again randomly spaced and not too many. I think Bud used roofing nails (ones with the round plastic cap) to hold up his linacoustic. Ultimately the fabric will hold it so either would be fine.

I kicked around putting up furing strips first but found it easier to cut everything in instead of having to cut it to fit. Linacoustic cuts very easy with a sharp razorblade. I used a combination of holding the wood in place and chalklines to cut all furing strips into the linacoustic. I used a black sharpie marker to mark out where to cut the batting and used a very nice pair of fabric sissors for cutting the batting. I recomend this approach because it is easier in my opinion. I think it would have been much harder to measure and cut the batting and linacoustic on the ground but that is just me.

Silver sharpie, if you have one handy, works better... although my wife wasn't thrilled I ruined it. Also, the 3M spray adhesive works really well. I used both. Fasteners like roofing nails, screws will definitely work, but probably overkill. Once the fabric is up, between the 3M and the fabric, its going nowhere.

Jason, columns look great!

Bud

The oversized column fronts are each perfectly 1" overhang on each side just for this purpose. Hope that makes sense. I can post a picture if not.

Yes, please do! Im interested in seeing this. I was thinking of just covering the staples next to my columns with a piece of quarter-round molding.

The oversized column fronts are each perfectly 1" overhang on each side just for this purposeGotcha. That will be really cool - kind of a "suspended" look.

HT is looking great! It looks like you put batting and linacoustic behind the wood columns, is that a typical installation? It seems that there would be no absorptive advantage once covered with the reflective wood. Any thoughts on this?

Hey Gonzo, Thanks. I actually removed the batting and linacoustic from the columns before installing the wood fronts.

Update - I just spoke to BPape (Bryan) and am going to hire him to help me do a calculated analysis of the room. I have wanted to do this all along and now it is time to do it before hanging up the fabric.

I anticipate that I will be building base traps and changing around some of my current treatments after getting back the report. I can't wait. I personally think that my room sounds great right now but I feel like I am missing a couple of critical pieces that will really take it from great to Perfect for me.

Been a while since I posted anything here so I am due for an update.

I worked with BPape (Bryan) and he was very helpful and very informative about my acoustical situation. I told him that I was mostly satisfied with my room acoustics but wanted to make sure that everything was the best it could be before putting up my fabric. He was very helpful and I am ordering everything I need to finish out the room treatments.

I highly recommend BPape to anyone that wants to do the acoustical treatments in the room the right way. Money very well spent in my opinion. Thanks again Bryan!!

I should have more pictures this weekend and next week when I will have some good days off of work to really focus on the theater. I plan to begin work on my marque/ticket booth and start my acoustical treatment changes. I will also begin installing crown molding in the majority of my basement. More pics soon.

New pictures. I spent an entire day changing most of my acoustical treatments based on the feedback from Bpape's calculated analysis of my room. Here we go.

1. Remove all the linacoustic from the front wall. Used it around the room to bring the linacoustic on each side wall up to 5.5 feet.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC132.jpg

2. Remove all polybatting from the top half of the room. Add linacoustic on side walls to get it up to 5.5 feet.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC134.jpg

3. Add new 2" unfaced 703 rigid fiberglass to front wall. Leave 2 feet open on each side of the 2" 730 for new cotton bass traps. These should be here this week or early next week according to Bryan.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC133.jpg

4. Remove all treatments from back wall and replace with 2" 703 with FSK facing. No pictures of that yet. I am still adding the FSK.

5. Add FSK to bottom 18" of the linacoustic down each sidewall. No pictures of that yet. I should be getting the FSK paper for that this week.

I hope to have pictures of #4 and #5 by this weekend coming up. After these changes are completed I can finally hang my GOM and begin working on staining and installing the trim moldings.
:D

More pics soon.

The changes so far have made a huge difference in the sound quality in the room. I anticipate it will get even better once the FSK paper is applied and the bass traps are put in. Now I just need to figure out a way to stop watching so much football and movies and get to work on finishing the room...

Finished the bathroom hallway this weekend, arches, and theater lobby. Also got some more of the media room drywalled and finished up running electrical to wine room. Here are some pics of the main things I wanted to finish this weekend.

Bathroom hallway:
http://www.addiespond.org/images/DSC70.JPG

http://www.addiespond.org/images/DSC67.JPG

Arches:
http://www.addiespond.org/images/DSC71.JPG

http://www.addiespond.org/images/DSC72.JPG

Theater Lobby:
http://www.addiespond.org/images/DSC73.JPG

This week - I will mud and tape all of this and hopefully get more drywall up...

Quick question. Am I correct that you wet the archway before you installed it?

Thanks!

I have done a lot of curved drywall, and usually use two layers of 1/4" HighFlex. If I wet the Highflex down with a spray bottle I can wrap it around a 12" radius with hardly any problems.

Frank

I have done a lot of curved drywall, and usually use two layers of 1/4" HighFlex. If I wet the Highflex down with a spray bottle I can wrap it around a 12" radius with hardly any problems.

Frank

So those curve aren't really drywall? Can we buy Highflex at Home Depot, Lowes or Menards?

I didn't wet anything and yes that is really drywall. Take a look at this post (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7308234&&#post7308234) and you can see how I framed the arches with plywood and 2x4's. Then to add the drywall I just cut a strip and scored-it with a razorblade every inch. That allowed it to wrap perfectly into place and then mudding took care of the rest. :)

Looking good. Cotton is on it's way - should have it soon. FSK went out over the weekend.

You should have everything you need to be done by the weekend.

Bryan

Your room is really coming out nice. Oddly enough, my room is similar in many ways. One way is in the fact that I am using the same sconces as you are and have planned to mount them on my columns. This past weekend I started to test mount them to try and get the right height. What height did you mount yours at? I must have moved my first one 3 times and still I am not quite sure I like the height.

Spark

Hey Spark - I mounted my sconces at 6 feet. I also mounted them upside down on purpose. I didn't like the idea of having the light bulb facing up towards the ceiling. I wanted it pointed down so that people could see better where they are walking with the lights dimmed for movies/football.

At 6' is that to the center of the sconce or to the bottom/top. That is a great idea about mointing them upside down, I am going to use that. They really aren;t all that bad and set off enough light to keep the edges of the room lit up.

Spark

6' to center of sconce. I also used 40 watt bulbs and keep them turned on full when watching football. The ambient light they produce does not hinder the image quality in any way and I really like that.

I keep them turned completely off during movies though as I find even a hint of light in the peripheral vision distracting.

Good luck and post pics!!

Great news...Cotton showed up yesterday from Bpape for my new bass traps. I will begin working on installation tonight.

I installed the bass traps last night and they work very well. Now that the traps are in, I am starting to wonder if the ports should fire at the right bass trap, at the side wall, or into the room. Anyone out there with a down firing sub and ports have the ports facing into the room? What is the best practice with this scenario?

Here is a picture before the traps are in and you can get an idea of the sub placement. Currently, the ports are firing at the right side wall.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC133.jpg

I have similar setup and similar dilemma. At moment I have my downward firing sub with port facing room.

So be interested in what others say.

Cheers,
Mark

You did a really nice job on those arched doorways.

Thanks man.

Looking great! Where did you get the sconce that is next to the arches? Me likes it.

Thanks Gonzo - I got them from a local lighting company but you can get them on the internet too. They are made by Kichler. Link (http://lightinguniverse.com/products/view.aspx?family=151588)

I'd fire them toward the farther side wall.

Bryan

Thanks Bryan.

So I have finished everything up to the point now where it is time to start putting up the fabric. I am thinking that I should be able to do this the last week of this year when I have a little vacation.

Last night I was trying to figure out my Insteon IR to X10 command module. I love how easy they say this is on the website:

"Just install the appropriate X10 modules, wall switches, thermostats or drape controllers, and you'll be able to dim lights, adjust temperature, open and close drapes and more – all with the same remote you use to change channels and adjust volume!"

BULL SH*T! First you have to get a degree in rocket science to just know how all this works because the command module doesn't come with any instructions (or at least mine didn't).

So after getting fed up with that - I watched the new Pirates of the Caribbean. While the movie was not as good as the first, I enjoyed it. I found a great new LFE demo in that movie. The part where they first summon the huge squid almost sent my sub through the ceiling it hit so hard. Very nice.

Bryan,

I am curious if placing the sub off center and pointing the port to the side of the room that is further away is a good starting point as a rule of thumb, or specifically for this theater.

Jikkjack
Sorry for the semi-hijack, your theater is looking great and I look forward to seeing the fabric on your walls, that allways makes the room.

Thanks for the great thread, keep up the good work.
Brian

No problem. I turned the sub last night and it did indeed make a difference. I am completely satisfied now with the sound of my room.

Other good news. Last night I figured out how to finally get my pronto neo (temporary universal remote) to control the Insteons. Thanks to the remote central website (http://www.remotecentral.com) . Thanks Bud!

After a very busy Christmas and New Years, I have managed to start putting up my fabric. I decided to go with Dazian Expo cloth. After I get the fabic up, I will begin the top, bottom and center stained trim moulding.

here are a few new pictures with the camera flash turned on:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC139.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC140.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC141.jpg

Here is one with the flash turned off:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC142.jpg

I still have a portion of the side wall around the door, the entire back wall, the column sides, the stage and front wall to fabric. I have already spent over 10 hours and used over 5000 staples working on the fabric. Slow going but it is starting to look finished.

You're getting there. Looks good. Have you placed your seat order yet?

Bud

Not yet. I am going to do that by the end of this month or beginning of next month at the latest...

Have been following your progress for the last few months...it looks very inviting! How did you apply the fabric to the walls, using panels? Hard to tell from your photo, but in the photo it looks like you stapled directly onto the walls? What did you use underneath the fabric for sound? And your stage, did you use any "formula" for it's size?

Thanks,
Liza

Have been following your progress for the last few months...it looks very inviting! How did you apply the fabric to the walls, using panels? Hard to tell from your photo, but in the photo it looks like you stapled directly onto the walls? What did you use underneath the fabric for sound? And your stage, did you use any "formula" for it's size?

Thanks,
Liza


Thanks Liza! Welcome to the forum.

I applied the fabric to the walls using wood furring strips and staples. You can see the furring strips better here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8999436&&#post8999436) . Underneath the fabric is a product called Linacoustic. It is sold by most HVAC stores. It is 1" in thickness and thus requires a furring strip that is equal in width. You can buy 5/4" wood corner boards at most big box stores for this purpose and rip them in half with a table saw/circular saw.

I hired a guy here on the forum named Bpape to do an acoustical analysis of my room and treated it per his analysis. I used a combination of Linacoustic, acoustical cotton, rigid fiberglass 703, and FSK paper.

No real formula for the stage. If I could redo the stage, I would. I actually started my theater before I found this forum and was well under way before getting some great ideas for cooler looking stages here on this forum. I used the old nail in the center of the room with string and pencil technique to get the round shape of my stage. I then measured and cut boards up to the edge of the line and faced it with MDF wood. I unfortunately don't have pictures due to the fact the hard drive most of my early construction pictures was on died and took the pictures with it.

I like the idea of the furring strips, looks easier in its application than the panels that I've seen on this forum.

You wrote that you would do your stage differently if you could...what changes would you make?

Did you do all the work yourself?

Our basement construction begins today...very exciting...a long time in planning. After reading many, many posts on this forum and reading Warren's book, I hope I've covered all the bases for our theater!

One other question, why were you instructed to remove the linacoustic from the front wall to replace it with fiberglass?

Thanks and keep those pictures coming!

Furring strips are easy for sure but time consuming. The technique I used to install them was to cut each strip and attach them using temporary screws. Once I was satisfied with the placement and thinking ahead to the fabric attachment and hiding staples - I went back and permanently attached some of the furring strips with 2.5" drywall screws and liquid nails. If you are doing a similar design, note that some furring strips will need to have the fabric attached before attaching the furring strip to the wall due to the staple gun not reaching the proper location. Take my room for example. I did the bottom first and had permanently attached all furring strips there. On the top, I actually attached the fabric to the furring strips for the middle of the wall, then attached the strips to the wall, then pulled the fabric up to the ceiling and temporarily secured the fabric to the top furring strip with push pins. I will try to take pictures of this tonight or tomorrow and post them when I complete the next section. This way when I add the stained wood pinstripe that goes around the center of the room, it will hide these staples.

Changes to the stage would only include making it look nicer cosmetically. I would just make a fancier stage.

Yes - I did all of the work myself except for the carpet.

Congratulations on beginning the build. That is definitely very exciting. Take lots of pictures. I suck at taking pictures but I have forced myself to take as many as possible. My digital camera is ok but it never really captures the shot I want for some reason...I guess I should really break down and read the instruction manual.

:D

I worked with Bpape who is an acoustical engineer here on this forum to give me a calculated analysis of my room for acoustical treatments. He has helped a few of the other guys here too. I actually live near Bud (chinadog) and got to hear his setup after he finished his acoustical treatments recommended by Bpape and I was sold. I wanted the best possible sound inside the room and felt his price to do the analysis was fantastic. I also believe it was worth every penny since I have no acoustical training or experience. I originally was just following other designs and using treatments similar in fashion to the ones I was seeing. Unfortunately, I found out that each room is different and what one person does might not necessarily be what I needed to do. This left me changing quite a bit of things once Bryan's analysis came back. To answer your question though, it was not thick enough. I needed 2" fiberglass in the center and 2 monster sized bass traps in each corner. Basically the 1" of linacoustic was not going to cut it as a bass trap/absorber. I am 10x's happier with the sound of the room now. :D

This weekend, I plan on buying some industrial strength velcro to use for attaching the fabric wrapped wood furring strips to the sides of each column and for use on the proscenium. My goal is to complete all fabric over the weekend and just have the finishing trim left. I hope to start staining that next week and weekend.

jikkjack,

What are your columns built out of? They look great.

Ed

Hey ejhuzy - thanks!! My columns are 2x4's framed out and drywalled. I then stained, polyed and attached sanded plywood to the fronts of each column. Each side with have a black fabric wrapped furring strip attached with industrial Velcro to give the illusion that the wooden fronts are floating into the room.

Hey Jikkjack-
Notice you have some recessed lighting - did you do anything for sound insulation or use any special type of lights for the install?

Also, you mentioned the 1" linacoustic was determined to be too thin for your front wall, thus you replaced it with the 2"... just a thought, is it because you have the open area in front (i.e. the faux screen wall)? Was wondering if the screen wall was your actual front wall if the 2" would have been necessary? I know you had it acoustically tested, was curious if your sound guy had elaborated? I would love to have someone out here during that phase to measure but doubt my hubby would approve (kind of weird, usually you guys are expressing limitations with the wives, a little role reversal, huh?!). Thus, am confined to trying to attack this one without expert advice!

Liza

Liza - I have a huge cavity between the ceiling and main floor that i stuffed with 2 layers of R-30 insulation. I then bought special trims for the can lights that are all metal with a foam boot on the end where the ceramic light socket attaches to the trim. Here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8179210&&#post8179210) is a picture of it. They are a little pricey at 30 bucks a trim but worth it. I have absolutely no sound on the main floor from any of my normal speakers but the sub woofer can tend to shake things a little if I crank up the volume. :)

Linacoustic helps with the low end absorbsion. I recommend googling bass traps to learn more about how bass traps help increase bass. It is the difference in listening to a movie that sounds like a teens car next to you at a stop light (boomy) vs controlled bass (not boomy) that sounds more realistic and you feel it more than hear it. FYI - Bpape did not have to come to my house to do the testing. He just gathers a TON of information about the room and uses a computer program that tells him what treatments are needed and he gives you a materials list that you can buy and install yourself. It is that easy. I then used a radio shack speaker meter to adjust the calibration of my speakers with the help of a DVD called Avia (http://www.amazon.com/AVIA-Guide-Home-Theater/dp/630551982X/sr=8-1/qid=1168095035/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/002-2036958-2158444?ie=UTF8&s=dvd) .

So my list was 1 bale of acoustial cotton for my bass traps and redoing the front and back wall completely and adding linacoustic up higher on the side walls. I was also instructed to removing the batting as it was making the room too dead. I then added FSK to the entire back wall and up 18" down each side wall. Total investment was around 800 dollars for all sound treatments and paying Bryan for his calculated analysis.

Had a 4 day weekend and was very productive. I finished hanging all of my fabric. I am very pleased with the Dazian Expo cloth. It looks great!

The first thing I did was fabric and install the sides of the columns. Each column front over hangs 1" on each side which is now plugged with a fabric wrapped furring strip. This hides staples and makes the columns look like they are floating in front of the wall. Very neat.

Next, I spent a lot of time building frames for the proscenium. I built 1 big frame for the top and bottom that are made up of 3 parts. After test fitting the parts, I glued and screwed them together to make a seamless panel.

Here are some pictures of the frames:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC143.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC144.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC145.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC146.jpg

As you can see in the first 2 pictures, There is a gap between the top and bottom frame for individual speaker panels that can be removed to access the L&R speaker. I can take the screen off to access the sub and center channel if needed. After testing the fit, I put on the fabric. :D

Each of the panels are attached with Industrial Strength Velcro just in case they need to be removed for any reason in the future. ;)

Here is a shot of the velcro on the back of the bottom panel. Oh, and also pictured in this shot is the ONLY reason I finished the fabric in 40 hours instead of 6 months. Thank you to the Porter-Cable stapler. It did a great job.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC147.jpg

Here are some of the finished fabric shots of the left, right and front of the room. Next I will be staining the wood for the top, bottom and center pin-stripe wood to finish the room!!!! :D

Left:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC149.jpg

Right:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC150.jpg

Front:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC148.jpg

I will take some pictures of the back of the room tonight. I need a tri-pod because all of the shots I took to post today were blurry. I guess I was too weak to hold the camera after all that hard work yesterday. ;)

Actually, it is probably due to the fact I suck at taking pictures. They never look like I want them too.

More pics soon.

Looks great. Nice contrast between the fabric and the wood. Very classy! You're in the home stretch now.

Bud

Thanks dude!

I emailed Ben about getting the Berklines. I think it is about time to get them on order since I should be done with all of the stained trim in the next few weeks.

Bud - if you can get away on Sunday at 3 - come on over to watch some football and drink beers.

I finally got some shots of the back of the room that were not blurry. I also updated the left and right shot above in the previous post. They look much better now and you can see the front wall.

Here are a couple of shots of the back of the room:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC151.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC152.jpg

I decided to paint the bar semi-gloss black and while I was at it I painted the door too. After painting, I decided that the door really needed to be flat so that is on my list of things to do this weekend. I also need to install the furring strip over the door.

I ordered the black face plate cover (lights) and black outlet and cover (back wall to vaccume the room) from smarthome and they should be here today or tomorrow.



More pics soon.

This weekend I plan to stain, poly and install the center wood pin-stripe around the room. I will also begin looking around for the ceiling and floor trim moulding.